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MKII, 2GR-FE, and Cruise Control?

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I was reviewing some wiring diagrams last night to gauge whether it was going to be possible to have a functional cruise control system after putting a 2GR-FE into my 91 Turbo. Has anyone tackled this task yet? I know many people don't care about cruise, but for long highway drives, I'd prefer to have the option. After looking at the MR2 and 2GR wiring, it looks like it may not be possible to retain cruise control with this swap easily. Since the MR2 throttle plate to pedal is cable actuated, there is always a direct connection to the pedal. The MR2 cruise (which is controlled by a separate CC ECU from the main ECU) actuates a remotely located clutched motor assembly which is then connected with another cable to the throttle plate. Essentially this separate motor controls the throttle, while still allowing the driver to accelerate using the pedal if desired. In the 2GR powered cars the throttle plate is actuated by a DBW motor integral to the throttle body. The cruise control function is integral to the primary ECM on these vehicles. There are inputs to the primary ECM from the skid control ECU, which in turn has the vehicle speed sensors connected to it as an input. 3 Ideas ---------- My first thought to minimize wiring and cutting up of the body harnesses was to retain the MR2's cruise control ECM (which is already integrated to all the necessary switches) and somehow interface its output to the 2GR ECM or throttle actuator. The output of the MR2 CC ECU (pins MO and MC) is a voltage intended to directly drive a small positioning motor (much like the one in the 2GR throttle body actuator), however the 2GR ECM already has direct and full control of this motor. If an external cruise control logic unit was to be used, it would have to "steal" control over the motor in the throttle body and hand it over to the actuation lines of the MR2 CC ECM once the CC circuit was activated by the "SET/RESUME" button. I suppose this could be done with a simple relay circuit (i.e. the signal that normally activates the safety magnetic clutch in the MR2 could be used as the control side to a DPDT relay, effectively switching the TB motor lines over to the MR2's CC motor connections). When the CC gets canceled, the relay would switch back giving the throttle body motor control back to the M+ and M- pins of the 2GR primary ECM. I'm not sure if this would even work, or if it's even remotely possible. Who knows what happens if the 2GR ECM no longer sees the motor attached to it's M+ and M- pins? I suppose the actual position of the throttle plate would also need to be fed back into the MR2's CC ECU for closed-loop operation to work properly... In addition, driver input to the pedal would not be fed through to the throttle while cruise was active. Probably not good things. Another way I thought CC could be implemented is to source the skid control ECU from the 2GR vehicle and interface its CAN communication lines to the 2GR primary ECM where it would normally expect them. Only question to answer here is if the MR2's vehicle speed sensor(s) would be valid input to the 2GR skid control ECU. If not one would have to source all four vehicle speed sensors from the donor vehicle and make them work somehow. The last way I could potentially see something working is if it would be possible to interpret the output of the MR2's CC ECM using a logic circuit and convert that signal into something that the 2GR would understand on it's CANH and CANL input pins (A41 and A49), effectively simulating the standard cruise control inputs of the 2GR system for the primary ECM. OK, that's about as good a guess as I'm going to be able to make regarding the cruise control system for this application. My knowledge of vehicle controls is somewhat limited. If anyone has pondered cruise control in their MKII MR2 powered by a 2GR using the stock ECM, let me know your thoughts! I'd love to get this working.  

jagibbs said: I was reviewing some wiring diagrams last night to gauge whether it was going to be possible to have a functional cruise control system after putting a 2GR-FE into my 91 Turbo. Has anyone tackled this task yet? I know many people don't care about cruise, but for long highway drives, I'd prefer to have the option. After looking at the MR2 and 2GR wiring, it looks like it may not be possible to retain cruise control with this swap easily. Since the MR2 throttle plate to pedal is cable actuated, there is always a direct connection to the pedal. The MR2 cruise (which is controlled by a separate CC ECU from the main ECU) actuates a remotely located clutched motor assembly which is then connected with another cable to the throttle plate. Essentially this separate motor controls the throttle, while still allowing the driver to accelerate using the pedal if desired. In the 2GR powered cars the throttle plate is actuated by a DBW motor integral to the throttle body. The cruise control function is integral to the primary ECM on these vehicles. There are inputs to the primary ECM from the skid control ECU, which in turn has the vehicle speed sensors connected to it as an input. 3 Ideas ---------- My first thought to minimize wiring and cutting up of the body harnesses was to retain the MR2's cruise control ECM (which is already integrated to all the necessary switches) and somehow interface its output to the 2GR ECM or throttle actuator. The output of the MR2 CC ECU (pins MO and MC) is a voltage intended to directly drive a small positioning motor (much like the one in the 2GR throttle body actuator), however the 2GR ECM already has direct and full control of this motor. If an external cruise control logic unit was to be used, it would have to "steal" control over the motor in the throttle body and hand it over to the actuation lines of the MR2 CC ECM once the CC circuit was activated by the "SET/RESUME" button. I suppose this could be done with a simple relay circuit (i.e. the signal that normally activates the safety magnetic clutch in the MR2 could be used as the control side to a DPDT relay, effectively switching the TB motor lines over to the MR2's CC motor connections). When the CC gets canceled, the relay would switch back giving the throttle body motor control back to the M+ and M- pins of the 2GR primary ECM. I'm not sure if this would even work, or if it's even remotely possible. Who knows what happens if the 2GR ECM no longer sees the motor attached to it's M+ and M- pins? I suppose the actual position of the throttle plate would also need to be fed back into the MR2's CC ECU for closed-loop operation to work properly... In addition, driver input to the pedal would not be fed through to the throttle while cruise was active. Probably not good things. Another way I thought CC could be implemented is to source the skid control ECU from the 2GR vehicle and interface its CAN communication lines to the 2GR primary ECM where it would normally expect them. Only question to answer here is if the MR2's vehicle speed sensor(s) would be valid input to the 2GR skid control ECU. If not one would have to source all four vehicle speed sensors from the donor vehicle and make them work somehow. The last way I could potentially see something working is if it would be possible to interpret the output of the MR2's CC ECM using a logic circuit and convert that signal into something that the 2GR would understand on it's CANH and CANL input pins (A41 and A49), effectively simulating the standard cruise control inputs of the 2GR system for the primary ECM. OK, that's about as good a guess as I'm going to be able to make regarding the cruise control system for this application. My knowledge of vehicle controls is somewhat limited. If anyone has pondered cruise control in their MKII MR2 powered by a 2GR using the stock ECM, let me know your thoughts! I'd love to get this working. Click to expand...

Yes, the switches seem to be of the same design and function, which is good. By "speed signal to the ECU" do you mean the primary ECM or the skid control ECU? I see the speed sensors in a 2GR setup go to the skid control, not the primary ECM. Are you guessing that the CAN signals are still just some sort of pulse waveform, and that direct connection of the MR2 speed sensor to these inputs of the primary ECM might work?  

jagibbs said: Yes, the switches seem to be of the same design and function, which is good. By "speed signal to the ECU" do you mean the primary ECM or the skid control ECU? I see the speed sensors in a 2GR setup go to the skid control, not the primary ECM. Are you guessing that the CAN signals are still just some sort of pulse waveform, and that direct connection of the MR2 speed sensor to these inputs of the primary ECM might work? Click to expand...

looks like on the camry, the cluster decodes the can message and sends it to the ECU on pin A8 as an analog waveform. that should be all you need to attach to give the ECU a speed signal  

I've looked deeply into this with my 3MZFE, which is almost exactly how the 2GR's cruize works. The MR2 speed sensor puts out a square 1/2 wave (pulsating positive) and the 3MZFE ECU needs a sine wave, plus there are two sensors so I don't know which one matters or if both matter. There is an pin on the ECU that could potentially work if Toyota didn't change the backbone that works with it. I don't know it on top of my head but it was from a solara 1MZFE diag, which uses a similar speed sensor to the MR2. Doing it that way is more complicated IMO. The easiest way I could think of is mecanicaly connecting the drive by wire pedal to the MR2 cruise control actuator and retaining all of the MR2 cruise control system. The only thing that would need to connect and be compatible with the 2GR is the throttle position sensor. LMK what you guys think  

Regarding pulse-train shaping: turning a square wave into a sine wave should be somewhat straightforward (also phase change should be irrelevant), adding an offset (if needed) would be slightly harder, but not out of the question. k-esd, do you know if the square wave is 50% duty cycle (equal on and off times)? Gouky had also hinted at just retrofitting the existing MR2 CC actuator to the DBW pedal as you are suggesting. I was also thinking at that time that the MR2's TPS would need to be "stacked" inline on the throttle plate beyond what already exists in the 2GR throttle body assembly for this to work.  

I believe it is 50% duty cycle according to the document I have. An other thing worth mentioning is that the signal is a sine wave before it is processed by the circuit built into the speed sensor itself then transmitted as a square wave. If somehow we could tap that, that would save some trouble, if the ECU accepts it. One thing to test would be to put a wave generator on the speed input of the ECU and watch the OBD2 or CAN reader speed to see which sensor affects the vehicle speed reading. At the same time we can gather data to what hz = which speed. If we can at least get that going, hopefully the ECU won't be fussy about the rest of the sensors.  

Gouky said: looks like on the camry, the cluster decodes the can message and sends it to the ECU on pin A8 as an analog waveform. that should be all you need to attach to give the ECU a speed signal Click to expand...

I'm going to throw one more tidbit of info I came across tonight out there in case anyone needs to convert a square wave into a sine wave with minimal amplitude variation as frequency varies. From what I can tell looking at the schematic for the 2GR combination meter, this may be the approach Toyota has taken to modify the raw speed sensor signals to a usable form for the ECM on pin A8, as I see some transistors and resistors in their simple schematic. The following is from: http://www.electro-tech-online.com/.../22092-square-wave-sine-wave-converter-2.html Hi all, I need a circuit [that] takes a square wave as input and converts it into sine wave. phase difference is acceptable. 1. Make the opamp into a sine wave oscillator. e.g. a "phase shift", "twin-T" or "wein bridge". 2. When you close the feeback loop, don't provide enough feedback for it to freely oscillate (just increase an R if it's a wein bridge). 3. Choose enough feedback for it to "ring" at the oscillator centre frequency. 4. Couple the square wave, to this 'oscillator'. Tight if you want a wider range of frequency, looser if you want lower distortion. The output will be in phase with the sq wave. You'll probably need AGC. PS. Instead of opamp, if you used just a single transistor (eg as a 'phase-shift-oscillator'), the circuit will be lower parts count, and you'll probably get away without needing AGC (e.g. thermistor). Because a simple common emitter BJT circuit is non-linear and what is "nasty distortion" in audio design, is here a nice 'compression' function to stabilise the sine amplitude. Hope this helps, I'd done this trick before and it worked for me. I used several of these to clean up a group of sinewave tones received over a radio link.  

jagibbs said: I'm going to throw one more tidbit of info I came across tonight out there in case anyone needs to convert a square wave into a sine wave with minimal amplitude variation as frequency varies. From what I can tell looking at the schematic for the 2GR combination meter, this may be the approach Toyota has taken to modify the raw speed sensor signals to a usable form for the ECM on pin A8, as I see some transistors and resistors in their simple schematic. The following is from: http://www.electro-tech-online.com/.../22092-square-wave-sine-wave-converter-2.html Hi all, I need a circuit [that] takes a square wave as input and converts it into sine wave. phase difference is acceptable. 1. Make the opamp into a sine wave oscillator. e.g. a "phase shift", "twin-T" or "wein bridge". 2. When you close the feeback loop, don't provide enough feedback for it to freely oscillate (just increase an R if it's a wein bridge). 3. Choose enough feedback for it to "ring" at the oscillator centre frequency. 4. Couple the square wave, to this 'oscillator'. Tight if you want a wider range of frequency, looser if you want lower distortion. The output will be in phase with the sq wave. You'll probably need AGC. PS. Instead of opamp, if you used just a single transistor (eg as a 'phase-shift-oscillator'), the circuit will be lower parts count, and you'll probably get away without needing AGC (e.g. thermistor). Because a simple common emitter BJT circuit is non-linear and what is "nasty distortion" in audio design, is here a nice 'compression' function to stabilise the sine amplitude. Hope this helps, I'd done this trick before and it worked for me. I used several of these to clean up a group of sinewave tones received over a radio link. Click to expand...

After more digging around in documents and wiring diagrams... 2GR-FE ====== It looks like the 2GR system (at least in the Lexus ES350) uses the wheel speed sensors for both the ABS and the cruise control. They are similar design as those in the MR2 and connect directly to the ABS/Skid ECU. The ABS/Skid ECU then sends a separate single output (not sure on waveform shape) to the dash combination meter where the signal is further modified into what is most likely a square wave (0 to +12V ?). This square wave then goes to the primary ECM SPD input pin. MR2 (w/ manual transmission) ====================== It looks like the MR2's use a separate speed sensor for the cruise control than the four sensors at each wheel. This sensor seems to be a 3-wire sensor (+12V, GND, and Signal Output) for manual transmission MR2's, and is likely the sensor mounted to the transmission pickup. The output is a "pulse" for every 40cm of forward vehicle motion, and I'm guessing it's' a square pulse. If it is indeed a square pulse, it may be possible to connect it's output directly to the SPD input pin of the 2GR ECM. The sensors at each wheel are just inductance coils (one at each wheel) that measure about 1 ohm for the fronts and about 1.3k ohms for the rears and are used for the ABS system only. I wish I had a scope..  

I've finally found the resistance values of the cruise control switch mounted on the steering wheel and it appears the resistance values are NOT the same in the MR2 as in the newer vehicles (or the Lexus ES350 anyway). This could mean the MR2 switch is not directly compatible with the 2GR ECM without modification. It may be possible to open up the switch and swap out the resistors. Anyone have a spare or damaged MR2 switch they'd like to donate for some development? Below are approximate/average values. For MR2: RESUME/ACCEL = 68 Ohms SET/COAST = 198 Ohms CANCEL = 418 Ohms (individual resistor values of 68, 130, and 220 ohms wired in series) For Lexus ES350: RESUME/ACCEL = 240 Ohms SET/COAST = 630 Ohms CANCEL = 1540 Ohms (individual resistor values of 240, 390, and 910 ohms, wired in series) EDIT: I should add that this does not apply to Canadian models, because apparently they use a different switch/ECU combination where there are no resistors in the switch. Each function utilizes a completely separate pin on the ECU where each button press results in a temporary continuity to ground on that particular pin (I like this better).  

from Jagibbs e-mail 2GR-FE ====== It looks like the 2GR system (at least in the Lexus ES350) uses the wheel speed sensors for both the ABS and the cruise control. They are similar design as those in the MR2 and connect directly to the ABS/Skid ECU. The ABS/Skid ECU then sends a separate single output (not sure on waveform shape) to the dash combination meter where the signal is further modified into what is most likely a square wave. This square wave then goes to the primary ECM SPD input pin. MR2 === It looks like the MR2's use a separate speed sensor for the cruise control than the four sensors at each wheel. This sensor seems to be a 3-wire sensor (+12V, GND, and Signal) for manual transmission MR2's, and is likely the sensor mounted to the transmission pickup. The output is a pulse for every 40cm of forward vehicle motion, and I'm guessing it's' a square pulse. If it is indeed a square pulse, it may be possible to connect it's output directly to the SPD input pin of the 2GR ECM. The sensors at each wheel are just inductance coils (one at each wheel) that measure about 1 ohm for the fronts and about 1.3k ohms for the rears and are used for the ABS system only. Click to expand...

k-esd said: snip... It's 1AM, why am I still up? I'm going to bed.... Click to expand...

jagibbs said: I've finally found the resistance values of the cruise control switch mounted on the steering wheel and it appears the resistance values are NOT the same in the MR2 as in the newer vehicles (or the Lexus ES350 anyway). This could mean the MR2 switch is not directly compatible with the 2GR ECM without modification. It may be possible to open up the switch and swap out the resistors. Anyone have a spare or damaged MR2 switch they'd like to donate for some development? Below are approximate/average values. For MR2: RESUME/ACCEL = 68 Ohms SET/COAST = 198 Ohms CANCEL = 418 Ohms (individual resistor values of 68, 130, and 220 ohms wired in series) For Lexus ES350: RESUME/ACCEL = 240 Ohms SET/COAST = 630 Ohms CANCEL = 1540 Ohms (individual resistor values of 240, 390, and 910 ohms, wired in series) EDIT: I should add that this does not apply to Canadian models, because apparently they use a different switch/ECU combination where there are no resistors in the switch. Each function utilizes a completely separate pin on the ECU where each button press results in a temporary continuity to ground on that particular pin (I like this better). Click to expand...

You may find that the newer CC switches will bolt into the MR2 steering wheel with a little trimming here and there. May be easier than changing resistors, depending on if they are SMD or old style.  

jagibbs said: I thought of looking into sourcing the newer CC switch, but don't have access to used parts very easily. I might rather open up the switch I already have. I'm pretty good at removing and soldering even SMD resistors in those really small 1206...and smaller sizes.. Gouky, are you suggesting that you will actually try to swap the resistors, or were you just giving your opinion? My MAIN worry is still what to use as the input to the SPD terminal, although I'm holding out that the sender in the mechanical transaxle sender unit may be compatible with the 2GR SPD input pin. Click to expand...

Zombie Thread Alert: so did anyone ever get their cruise control to work?  

Yeah, several people have gotten it to work on my 2-plug ECU. Just change the resistors in the cruise control stalk and wire it straight to the ECU. Also wire in the brake inputs (both of them) and the speed signal and you should be good to go. Doing the same with my 5-plug ECU does *NOT* result in working cruise control. I don't know what makes that one angry but it does not work.  

Cruise works with the 2-plug ECU i sell if you hook up VSS and the cruise signal with the modified resistors in the stalk. I haven't done it but several people on this forum have.  

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind should my ecu take a dump. And I just found out that my car will have the 5 plug Sienna ecu. Drat the cat.  

I decided to finally attempt a mod at my Cruise control stalk. I had a spare, and all the parts for 3 years, so why not? Unfortunately, a newer stalk from your donor car cannot be swapped right in to the MR2 steering wheel. They have different mounts. So here are some pics of it’s insides. The diagonal resistor is of greatest value, and the vertical resistor on the right is of least resistance. I replaced them all with 1% resistors in 232, 402, and 804ohm values. Now to install it and see if she works. I have Marc’s MAF tuned Rav4 ECU, and bridged two W and W-B wires in my column harness to make the cruise on-switch work as designed in a rav4. The MR2 Cruise Control ECU and passenger (US) side cruise harness to the engine bay have both been removed.  

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Extra glad I went with the 2-plug ecu then! I just finally got around to doing this last week and it works fine. My oe stalk was wired in series so resistor values of 240, 390, and 910 ohms listed in the other thread worked perfectly. I just bypassed one of the old cruise ecu wires as input and wired the on-off switch in parallel. It did quit on me and I had to go back in and found the solder pad had separated from the board, its pretty thin and easy to break so careful soldering!  

Yep, I just bridge pins 15 and 5 at the MR2 steering column. And then ran wire CCS all the way to the ECU.  

Assuming I can make a 2007 Sienna stalk fit into my car...would that work?  

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Adding Cruise Control to a Mk I

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Monkeywrench Racing

MWR Cruise Control Kit v3 – 2000-05 MR2 Spyder Manual

$ 419.00

Description

Additional information.

• Reviews (1)

In stock, shipping immediately.

MWR’s v3 cruise control kits allow you to quickly and easily add OEM-quality cruise control functionality to your car at a price that will fit any budget.

Fits: 2000-05 MR2 Spyder All MANUAL  (RHD and LHD) (does not fit any other applications)

• Easy installation (full install instructions included), can be done by mechanics, car audio installers and do-it-yourselfers. Generally takes ~3-4 hours.
• Top quality Rostra actuator custom tuned for this application.
• Custom modified harness to suit this application for ease of install and tidy appearance.
• Installs entirely under dashboard, no added clutter in your engine bay or cutting/drilling through metal firewalls.
• Control stalk can be installed at owner’s preferred angle and location on steering column (shown installed low in pic).
• Works with original engine as well as 2ZZ or K-series engine swaps.
• Easy set-up gets you on the road faster.
• Works great with naturally aspirated and supercharged applications.
• Not recommended for turbo applications; may cause surging in certain conditions (especially hills).
• Improved fuel economy.
• 3-year Warranty on parts

Take a long road trip without the sore right leg!

1 review for MWR Cruise Control Kit v3 – 2000-05 MR2 Spyder Manual

John Kolmer (verified owner) – August 2, 2015

Ordered this for my 2001 MR2 Spyder. Instructions were easy to follow, even for a DIY guy! Looking forward to resting the right leg on our upcoming road trip! Thanks, Monkeywrench Racing!

Only logged in customers who have purchased this product may leave a review.

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Toyota MR2 Spyder - Performance, Price, and Photos

The loneliest and most forgotten generation of the Toyota MR2 line-up has been making a resurgence, here's why.

If there were one word we would use to describe the Toyota MR2, it would be - 'cool'. When Toyota introduced the two-seat mid-engine economy sports car back in the 80s, it was a hit. There was no car like it on the market at the time. To this day , the MR2 is really the only affordable mid-engine Japanese sports car available in the U.S., and it's still a desirable sports car .

Let's be honest, if you are looking at MR2s , you aren't cross-shopping with the Honda NSX . We'll leave that one out of the discussion for now. The MR2's true rival has been and always will be the Mazda Miata. You could refer to the MR2 as a quirkier and more unique Miata. Yet, the third-generation MR2, known as the W30 or MR2 Spyder, has always been the odd one out. Yet, could this be the very reason it's now more desirable than ever? Well, let's find out.

2001 Toyota MR2 Spyder

The MR2 Spyder is not a fast car, but it can go fast. It is not luxurious, but it is durable. It is not beautiful, but it has charm. Toyota will never put a naturally-aspirated engine in the back of an economy sports car again. With modern cars averaging two tons, how will they achieve the crazy low weight? Modern safety standards and design say otherwise. So, it is safe to say the W30 is a relic of its time.

• Everything Miata, but different
• One of the lightest sports cars ever made
• Most affordable Mid-engine RWD layout
• SMT transmission is not good
• Overspending for a clean example
• Less aftermarket support compared to its competitors

Most Affordable Compact Sedan To Offer A Manual In 2024

The 2001 toyota mr2 spyder.

The 2001 Toyota MR2 Spyder is a captivating sports car. It was Toyota’s take on the roadster revival trend. The mid-engine design and lightweight usually translates to a very fun drive. The compact engine offered usable performance and the convertible style just added that little bit of extra flair. The MR2 Spyder was an affordable entry-level sports car that aimed to offer a driving experience that would rival more expensive models.

Building on the MR2 Spyder’s allure, its agile handling and responsive steering made it a standout in the roadster category. The 1.8-liter engine, while modest in displacement, produced enough power to ensure a lively performance that would not scare inexperienced drivers, while at the same time being able to offer more seasoned ones a good deal of sporting fun. This was a vehicle that did its best to capture the essence of a pleasurable driving experience, creating a close and intimate connection between car and driver.

Exterior Dimensions

(Source: Toyota)

Specifications And Performance

In MR2 circles, the W30 generation goes by the doted nickname of "Frog". Stare at the front end long enough, you'll get it. Sold from 2000 to 2005 model years, it was a very different car compared to the previous MR2. The second generation MR2, known as the SW20 , ceased U.S. sales in 1995. In California-emission states, you couldn't even buy a Turbo model after 1994.

Although a compelling driver's car, the SW20 had some major oversights that killed it in the long run. It was too expensive and too heavy as it used Toyota Celica parts. It was a complex car, plagued by its many idiosyncrasies. Thus, when Toyota reintroduced the model into the U.S. five years later with a new generation, changes were major. The Spyder left the Celica platform for the cheaper and lighter Corolla platform.

As a result, the W30 harkened back to the original AW11 MR2 from the 80s. It emphasized simplicity and low weight as its recipe for success. The Frog was a staggering 700-odd pounds lighter than its predecessor. At a curb weight of 2,195 pounds, it is even lighter than the original AW11 by a couple of dozen pounds. So you can understand what Toyota is laser-focused on concerning design.

Yet, there were compromises made to make this low-weight simplicity a reality. The SW20 Turbo made 200 horsepower and 200 pound-feet of torque . Yet, Toyota got strangled by emissions regulations for the new generation. Thus, the W30 would receive a single engine configuration: the 1.8-liter 1ZZ four-cylinder. The 1ZZ in the MR2 Spyder produces 138 horsepower at 6,400 RPM and 125 pound-feet of torque at 4,400 RPM .

Performance Specifications

The best toyota sports cars ever made.

This was an aggressive decrease from the SW20 Turbo. The 1ZZ was a better all-around engine than the non-turbo 5S-FE option found in the SW20, but it was the only choice. As a result, this left a sour taste for many MR2 enthusiasts. You always expect the newest model to be the fastest, but this was not the case with the Frog.

The SW20 Turbo would smoke the W30 in a straight line, almost a second faster in the sprint to 60 mph. Yet, because of the W30's impressive low weight, it could still manage a 6.8-second 0-to-60 time.

While the MR2 Spyder's power output is not its strong suit, the chassis is glorious. The Spyder retains the great mid-engine handling character of the previous generations. Yet, gone is the snap oversteer tendency made notorious by the previous two models. By far, the W30 is the most balanced of all available MR2s.

The brakes are capable of handling sporty drives of any kind. They feel strong thanks to the low weight of the Frog. As far as two-seat sports cars go, the Spyder is very easy to drive. It will be happy to hum around at 70 mph. It is a sensitive chassis that is a joy to connect to. Certainly more character than a Miata with the same size and appeal.

Interior Technology, Luxury, And Comfort

The Spyder's interior is comfortable for a two-seat sports car. It is a Toyota after all. And in the Toyota way , excels in its simplicity. Although simple, at no point is the driver neglected. The perforated leather steering wheel is wonderful in your hands. The leather shift knob and brushed metal pedals are quality units. No, it's not a luxury car, but both cloth and leather seat options look good and are ergonomic.

It is no surprise that the MR2 Spyder is lacking in storage space. There is a mini compartment behind the seats and in the "front". Don't expect much though. A comparable Mazda Miata has three times the storage. We aren't even exaggerating. Yet, the Spyder still boasts three cupholders. That is more than one beverage per passenger!

Let’s say you want cruise control in your Spyder. You’ll need the SMT (sequential manual transmission). The SMT was available for the 2002+ model years. Shifting was possible from a chrome central knob. No clutch, but still a “manual”. This was a time before paddle shifters. If you wanted to keep your hands on the wheel while shifting, there were two steering wheel-mounted buttons. Yet another interesting feature of the Spyder.

Yes, the SMT is lackluster compared to modern dual-clutch transmissions. Even an automatic ZF 8-speed is better in every regard. Although downshifts are crisp and quick, upshifts are lacking in speed. In this case, the proper manual is faster than the SMT.

Let's not forget this is technology from 20 years ago. There were very few W30s produced. Even less with these transmissions. Since this was the only car in the entire Toyota line-up to ever receive the SMT, it is a specialized, expensive unit. Although cool and a novelty of some sort today, the safer bet is to stick with the 5-speed manual instead.

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Toyota mr2 spyder versus its competitors.

The natural competition for the Toyota MR2 Spyder is the NB Mazda Miata . Even over two decades later, this fact still has not changed. They both offer a similar appeal and attract the same audience. Let's keep it simple, in a competition between these two vehicles, there is no loser.

How The 2001 Toyota MR2 Spyder Compares To The 2001 Mazda Miata

The MR2 Spyder is a Mazda Miata for those who don't want a Mazda Miata. If the Miata is the blueprint , then the MR2 Spyder is different enough that it feels special and has its own character. Yet, both of these vehicles only have one real purpose: enjoyment.

The only correct method of comparison is finding out which one makes you smile more. The one you dream about driving. As long as you are honest with what you want, you can't miss between these two models.

The Highest-Mileage Sports Car In The World In 2024

How much does a toyota mr2 spyder cost.

When new, a 2002 Toyota MR2 Spyder sold for $24,645 . The same year NB Mazda Miata sold for $21,280. Here is a big distinction between the two, Toyota made way fewer W30s than you think. There were only 27,941 sold in the U.S. in their five-year span. Mazda sold three times as many NB Miatas in the same time.

By the 2005 model year, sales of the Spyder had dwindled below 1,000 units. It was unfortunate that it did not sell well. These numbers led to the quick death of the MR2, marking the end of U.S. sales in 2005. Now, the average price of an MR2 Spyder is $13,929 over the last five years. A couple of years ago, you could find them a dime a dozen for under $10k. Nobody wanted them. It was "the other one", remember?

For comparison, the rare SW20 Turbo averages prices above $20,000 in today's market. Naturally-aspirated manual SW20s go for about $12k . If you can find a good condition W30 for under $10k, that is a good buy. As with most cars, the later model years are the most desirable option.

Is It Worth Buying A Toyota MR2 Spyder?

In the case of the MR2 Spyder, we recommend the 2003+ model years. The pre-cat system in early models is a known issue. Early model years also have some oil-burning issues. Looking for a hard top, i.e. a removable hard top for the Spyder. OEM hardtops are at least $2,500 if you can find one in your color. Even aftermarket options are still at least about $2,000. As with most convertibles with vinyl roofs, they are prone to cracking with age and use.

So is the MR2 Spyder a steal even in today's market? There are rumors that even an MR2 successor may be in the works. Yet, we can guarantee it won't be the same as the ones of old. It is likely that Toyota will never put a naturally-aspirated engine in the back of an economy sports car again. With modern cars averaging two tons, how will they achieve the crazy low weight? Modern safety standards and design say otherwise. So, it is safe to say the W30 is a relic of its time.

The MR2 Spyder is not a fast car, but it can go fast. It is not luxurious, but it is durable. It is not beautiful, but it has charm. Consider this proverb. I have a long-time friend who has owned every generation MR2. The biggest MR2 head I know by far (not to mention, a hell of a driver). He owned at least four or five AW11s and SW20s. He sold them all and now has a Spyder. He has owned it for years, loves it, and doesn't plan on going back. Is he ahead of the curve or just plain crazy? Sometimes you have to find out for yourself.

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Cruise Control

Started by nutjack, May 8, 2018, 13:38

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Quote from: nutjack on May  8, 2018, 13:38 Is there an aftermarket Cruise control that is compatable with MR2 rodster? Cheers nutjack

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Quote from: lamcote on May 11, 2018, 12:20 I use it all the time and find it really useful. Admittedly, most of my driving is in the Midlands or to the North, I guess the roads are going to be busier south of me.

Quote from: rich_p on June 26, 2018, 21:20 So here we have; http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/152735-a-guide-for-installing-a-waeco-ms50-cruise-control-system/ After seeing the above guide for the 1ZZ i then went for it and fitted the same system to my 2zz Celica, I've had it installed a good few years now, and it's actually one of my favourite mods due to the long distance drives the car gets used for. My roadster really doesn't get used quite the same way to need it but I'd be sure installation wouldn't be too difficult. One of the harder parts I found was where to mount the controls!

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Cruise control not working

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I have a 2003 MR2 Spyder silver aluminum color and chrome rims just like new been garage kept its whole life here in Florida not a scratch on the car but my cruise control won't work and I can't figure out if there is a fuse or a relay that may be out I push the on button and the light will not come on the dash the other day I clicked it and the cruise light appeared but it wouldn't engage anybody have a clue about this I'm irie about having the car serviced here in Naples because there is a lot of auto repair places that generate repair not needed and I really don't want to be a lab experiment for them the next thing you know your car is not running correctly. If you have any ideas let me know appreciate it  

Wow, your question is really hard to read! The lack of punctuation makes it very hard to follow. It appears you have an SMT spyder - albeit with chromed wheels. The 5 speed spyders are not available with cruise control, unless of course, it was added via an aftermarket kit. Guessing from your mention of dash light indicator, I assume yours is the factory cruise control system. In general, you are very correct with repair shops - none are familiar with the SMT system, few are familiar with the spyder (even though it uses a common corolla engine). Idiot shops can easily destroy the SMT sustem by simply topping up the reservoir with the wrong fluid. I will look up the link to the cruise control wiring diagram if that will help you.  

Hello, I am in France with a MRS of 2003 SMT 6 reports and I want to put the regulator. I will buy the lever with the gearshift buttons with the 6-wire spindle (use of 5 (4 without the regulator) .The cable to the CCS does not exist under the steering wheel.Do you have the schematic and or is the "cruise control ECU" please? I know where is the module "Electronically Controlled Transmission" and the ECM but not the case "cruise control ECU" Thank you.  

Make certain your brake lights aren’t “always on”. If they are, the cruise will not engage. A common failure is for a plastic grommet to crumble allowing the brake light switch under the dashboard to fall out of rig, allowing your brake lights to stay on constantly.  

The clockspring/spiral cable assembly is probably bad. There’s a open wire within the ribbon. Very common problem; they’re only good for 50k miles. Costs about $200 You can fix the one you got by using the spare wire in the ribbon. Search for the explanation in SC.  

Press 2 for English. “Hi I’m Stephane from France too, I bought the cruise control switch on eBay it fits perfectly in the steering wheel and the plug is not compatible I plugged the 2 wires into the remaining slots in the connector of the steering wheel but it does not work!! I have a 2003 smt spyder.”  

[QUOTE = "Stéphane 0174, poste: 2126364, membre: 63990"] Salut moi Stéphane de France aussi, j'ai acheté le comodo de régulateur de vitesse sur eBay il va parfaitement dans le volant et le prix n'est pas compatible j'ai branché les 2 fils dans les emplacements restants dans le connecteur du volant mais ça ne marche pas !! J'ai un mrs de 2003 smt ... [/CITATION] Bonjour Stéphane, nous pouvons communiquer via message privé, j'avance de mon côté, il me reste a passer le fil CCS vers l'ECU.  

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