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Pamir Mountains Travel: A Beginner’s Guide

Last Updated on January 16, 2021 by Audrey Scott

Our visit to the Pamir Mountains introduced us to some the most spectacular scenery we’ve taken in on our journey thus far. Other mountainous areas, hyped in guidebooks and on travel websites, have only paled in comparison. The Pamir region not only stands out for the severity and beauty of its landscape, but it shines most of all for the colorful, hospitable and fascinating Pamiri people who live there.

The Pamir Highway, roughly speaking begins in Kyrgyzstan and winds its way through Tajikistan, is one of the world's greatest road trips.

Table of Contents

Pamir Highway Sights, Stories and Highlights

Kyrgyzstan stops along the pamir highway.

A stopping point for travelers and truck drivers alike in southern Kyrgyzstan. The road forks, one way to Tajikistan, the other to China. If you spend the night, beware. Temperatures are frighteningly low and winds exceptionally brutal. This explains the permanently reddish cheeks you see in our photos of kids there.

Pik (Peak) Lenin: Located 20 kilometers outside of Sary Tash, Pik Lenin (7,134 meters) dwarfs the surrounding plains, as the autumn light bathes some of the most spectacular scenery we’ve ever seen. If you find yourself here in summer, it would be worth taking a few extra days to do some hiking in this region . Peak Lenin is supposedly one of the easier 7,000+ meter (21,000+ feet) mountains to climb, and the trek up to its base camp is challenging, but stunningly beautiful.

Trekking in the Alay Mountains

If you have some time in your schedule, consider stopping off in Sary Tash or Sary Mogul to do some trekking in the Alay Mountains. The mountain scenery is stunning and the day and multi-day treks we did in this area were some of our favorites. More on how to plan and organize a trek in the Alay Mountains . Our Alay Region Experiential Guide also includes other yurt camp stays and trekking options in the Pamir Mountains in Kyrgyzstan, including up to Peak Lenin base camp.

Tajikistan Stops Along the Pamir Highway

Tajik border crossing.

At 4,282 meters (13,000 feet) near the Kyzyl-Art-Pass, this border crossing is perhaps the most beautiful and the most desolate we’ll ever encounter. Two metal cylindrical buildings sat rusting on the crest of a hill. Several young military conscripts exited as we pulled up and circled the jeep with their guns slung over their arms. After correctly surmising that we posed no threat, they returned to their normal routine of breaking and collecting ice for drinking water in a nearby pond.

Lunch Stop Near Lake Karakul

The Pamirs means Roof of the World and we began to understand why as the light and landscape seemed to bend around the edges of the high desert plateaus (4000+ meters or 12,000+ feet). Abandoned, rusted containers took on a surreal, Dali-esque feel to them. Even an outhouse somehow seemed poetic and beautiful in this setting.

Murghab to Langar

More high desert terrain, a random Bactrian camel and a few salt lakes dot the landscape between Murghab and the Khargush Pass (4344 meters). The road went from bad to worse as we left the main Pamir Highway. Pakistan’s Hindu Kush Mountain Range, with snow-covered peaks at 7,000+ meters (21,000 feet), began to peek through a narrow corridor of Afghan land. Peering into Afghanistan (and at a distance, Pakistan) from across the Pyanj River, we hoped to see camel caravans carrying goods over the roadless terrain. We were a bit late; it seemed that the camels had already gone home for the season.

Langar marks the start of the Wakhan Valley if you are coming from Murghab. Langar is a friendly and pleasant village to spend the night and is worth a long walk around. The setting is beautiful and the river valley views into the Pamir and Hindu Kush mountain ranges are magnificent. Seek out this kind woman for some pleasant company and conversation in English.

Pamiri Houses

The traditional Pamiri house, huneuni chid , compliments the natural hospitality of the Pamiri people. From the outside, these homes look like simple mud rectangles. The interiors are outfitted with dark wood and are often intricately carved or painted. A large open rectangular area in the middle of the house, ringed by an elevated platform, serves as the main common area where visitors sit, eat and sleep.

The most interesting feature of these homes is the depth of symbolism behind their common geometric design. The five vertical pillars in the main room represent the five Muslim prophets – Fatima, Ali, Mohammed, Hassan and Husain. A skylight in the roof – consisting of four concentric squares representing earth, fire, air and water – illuminates the room. Pamiri home design supposedly dates back almost 2,500 years.

Although the Buddhist caves described in the guidebook aren’t much to see, the village kids are. They will lead you up and around the hills to the caves. Vrang also marks a possible starting point for a hike from Peak Karl Marx (6,723 meters) to the Shokh Dara Valley.

Bibi Fatima Springs

After days without bathing water, the picturesque hot springs above Yamchun Fort are a welcome respite. Even if you can’t bathe, you'll still find yourself thankful for the luxury of warm water. The springs are purported to boost fertility in women; Audrey was advised by the woman running the place to drink as much water as she possibly could.

Khakha Fortress

A 3rd century BC fort that is now serves as a Tajik military border station. We were stopped by several young Tajik conscripts toting AK-47s. They even ran down the hill from their station to greet us. They gruffly asked us in Russian what we were doing there and what we wanted. Audrey, the only quasi-Russian speaker of the bunch, explained that we hoped to see the fort and offered that we had obviously made a mistake and would leave. Not accepting our answer, the soldiers asked to see our passports and documents. We were surrounded by rocky terrain, meaning that no one from the road could see us, including our driver. Audrey lied and said our passports were in the car.

The look on our driver's face (something equivalent to “oh shit”) was precious as the five of us walked out of the rocky area, escorted by three gun-toting soldiers. Once our documents were examined and deemed in order, the soldiers' expressions changed to something resembling smiles. Although we were still all a bit frightened, they insisted on taking us on a tour of the fort and their living areas. One of our French companions plied them with cigarettes to ensure that we stayed on their good side.

At the Wakhan Valley's western end, Ishkashim is the most populated village of the valley. We stopped by to visit the town market and met some friendly locals along the way. The Afghan town of Ishkashim nearby is connected to Tajikistan by a new bridge built with donations from the Aga Khan. Rumor has it that the border officials will let foreigners into Afghanistan and back to Tajikistan for the weekend market. We didn’t try it since we only had a single-entry Tajik visa, but we’re curious to hear if anyone has.

Garam Chashma

Hot springs set in calcium pools, reminiscent of Pamukkale in Turkey. A pleasant stream runs nearby, making it perfect for a picnic and walk. Although the locals swear by the health benefits of the mineral water, we found it a bit too mineral-laden to consume. Again, people are very friendly. We collected numerous offers to spend the night. Beware of the man who knows every fact and detail of French history; he stumped our French companion with the question of who wrote La Marseillaise .

While this regional capital is not full of sights, it is a pleasant place to wind down after several days on the road. It also serves as a jumping-off point for the Wakhan or Shokh Dara Valleys. The Aga Khan, spiritual leader of the Ismaili sect of Shiite Islam and the Pamiri people and founder of numerous schools and universities, has put an emphasis on foreign languages and business skills. It shows. Khorog may have the highest concentration of English speakers in all of Central Asia. At least that’s how it sounded to us.

Pamir Highway People and Landscapes

The extremity of the landscape along the Pamir Highway comes at a price, however. After wearing all of our heavier clothes to stay warm, eating nothing but potatoes, bread and tea, and being without bathing water for five days, we were ready for some features of civilization. Our journey in the Pamirs fortunately knew an end.

For the local Pamiri people, however, the austerity and scarcity of their homeland are not components of an adventure holiday. For them, this is real life, day in and day out.

People and cultures are influenced by their environment. However, the way in which the various people encased in this relatively tiny sub-region of Central Asia closely matched the diversity of their landscape – from its desolate high mountain deserts to its fertile river valleys – was especially fascinating.

A Kyrgyz Outpost in the High Desert

Our first evening in Tajikistan featured a stop in Murghab (3,576 meters), the first town after the Kyrgyz-Tajik border. Its mud-covered houses and converted train wagons conveyed a Wild West look to the town, but abandonment and foreclosure hung heavy in the air. Murghab seemed like a place that should never been inhabited at all, but somehow its ethnic Kyrgyz population has continued to survive.

The combination of elevation and dry climate ensures that almost nothing grows, not even potatoes. Residents here must import all of their food from Kyrgyzstan or China – or bring it in from Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan. The prices of basic goods like flour and petrol were high. We were told that cows could not take the freezing temperatures and horses were doomed to heart attacks because of the high elevation (3,800-4,000 meters). So, instead of cows, yaks served as the primary source of meat and the more resilient donkey as the beast of burden.

While we enjoyed our dinner of yak meat and yak yogurt – both of which were surprisingly good – we abided the potatoes and hard bread as we imagined a local life of scarcity. Consider also that we stayed with a relatively wealthy family, whose livelihoods were funded by the annual tourist flow. The abundant fruits, vegetables and herbs of Osh, Kyrgyzstan just two days before seemed almost otherworldly here.

Weathered faces and tired smiles began to make sense in this harsh environment. As we walked around the town market the next morning, people were curious as to where we were from; they invited us to chat. A palpable sense of fatigue and hopelessness matched the surroundings, however.

The next day we left the high desert behind for the Wakhan Valley, a comparatively lush river valley that traces the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. No more than 100 miles separates Murghab and the Wakhan Valley, but the distance and the landscape were enough to form a cultural chasm between these vastly different areas.

Skirting Afghanistan through the Wakhan Valley

Life in the Wakhan Valley is not easy by any stretch – locals collect water at mountain springs, agriculture is still limited, public transport is almost non-existent and roads are often barely passable, and services and supplies are limited, but the natural environment was noticeably more hospitable than the high desert we had just traveled through. Trees, mountains and fields compose the visual space in the Wakhan Valley and make autumn a truly spectacular time to take it all in. For us, early October featured rich autumn colors in the foreground and snow-dusted sepia-toned mountains in the background.

Although life is also difficult in the Wakhan Valley, locals are able to grow enough food. According to some estimates, they’ve reached 70% agricultural sustainability. This relative abundance is reflected in their simple and sincere hospitality. Even though the Wakhan Valley is secluded and its people know limited interaction with the outside world, Pamiri people are exceptionally welcoming.

As we walked through villages, we were regularly invited for tea or offered fresh milk and bread . People were happy to show us their Pamiri homes and have a chat, whether or not we shared a common language. While we appreciated every invitation, we had to respectfully decline some due to time constraints and full stomachs.

Homestays Along the Pamir Highway

For our second night in the Wakhan Valley, we decided to stay in a small village. The Wakhan Valley does not have a network of hotels or hostels, but the hospitality of its people fills the void. We asked our driver to stop at the only store in the village of Namadguti, more or less in the middle of nowhere. We figured this would yield a genuine Pamiri experience.

The driver talked to a local man standing outside a local shop, but he didn’t have any ideas. Dan suggested we ask the local shopkeeper. Sure enough, this woman lived behind the shop and invited us to stay with her family. Our travel experience shows that women almost always seem to have a solution.

Our host was a thin, weathered woman with a kind, tired smile. After our inquiry, she closed her shop and showed us to her family home, a beautiful Pamiri-style house with carved pillars. Four girls, ranging from six to twenty years old, flitted around us excitedly and brought us endless bowls of apples and tea as we began to settle in. The floors were decorated in colorful carpets and mattresses, making for a warm and homey environment in spite of the setting sun and growing cold outside.

After dinner, several of our travel companions began making balloon animals – dogs, swans, bears and other unidentifiables. The youngest child, a three-year old boy, didn't know what to make of these new gifts. Before long, the elevated floor of our hostess’ common room was covered with a balloon animal menagerie. Throughout the evening, we exchanged English lessons for lessons of Tajik and Pamiri with the sisters. Although there was a little mutual understanding in English and Russian, most of the communication was through smiles and body language. The mother sat watching the whole scene, smiling peacefully as she knitted thick leg warmers in preparation for winter.

The next morning, as we departed, we asked our hostess what we owed her for our night’s accommodation and food. She asked for less than $1.50 per person. We insisted on leaving some more money, using the children as an excuse so as not to offend her; we received a bushel of apples in return.

The family’s generous spirit was moving; we almost didn't want to leave. Warm water, vegetables and heat awaited us in Khorog. Spending a few days in the high and remote Pamir Mountains reminded us how closely we human beings are linked to our environments. Even though basic necessities like food and clean water were sometimes a struggle, Pamiri people shared what they could and welcomed us to their homes.

Transport to and from the Pamir Mountains:

If you can, try to hire transport that will take you the entire way from Osh to Khorog (or Dushanbe, whichever is your final destination). This will ensure that you are never stuck anywhere or waste time trying to coordinate your next transport.

In the years since we did our Pamir Highway road trip we've worked frequently with Visit Alay based in Osh, Kyrgyzstan and know the owner/founder quite well. They run a lot of different Pamir Highway transport and tour options , either from Osh, Murghab, Dushanbe or Bishkek. You can even rent a car for self-drive, but we wouldn't recommend that unless you have a lot of experience driving in challenging terrains and know how to fix a 4-wheel drive car.

Our own experience included:

• Osh to Murghab: We hired a Russian UAZ jeep through a contact we found on a travel bulletin board. The jeep fit five travelers plus the driver, snuggly. We stopped overnight in Sary Tash and arrived in Murghab the next afternoon.
• Murghab to Khorog via the Wakhan Valley: If you have a lot of time and flexibility, you can conceivably hitchhike this route, but beware that vehicles of any sort are few and far between, particularly outside of summer. We hired a driver with jeep to take us the 400km over three days. The cost was $300. We also paid for his return trip from Khorog to Murghab since he couldn’t find any passengers that needed to return. ACTED in Murghab can set you up with a driver for a slightly higher fee. Hang around the market in Murghab or just walk through town – available drivers will find you since there are not many tourists.
• Other transport options: There are more regular marshrutkas (shared vehicles) going from Murghab to Khorog and vice versa on the main Pamir Highway. Cost is around $25/person. Go early to the Murghab or Khorog markets. From Khorog, there are infrequent buses going to Ishkashim and other nearby villages.
• Transport to/from Dushanbe: By plane, it's a quick and terrifying 45 minutes on Tajik Air. By car/jeep, it's 15 hours if you're lucky and up to 24 hours if you're not.

Accommodation in the Pamir Mountains:

• Sary Tash: There are a couple of home-stays/guest houses in town; we just stayed at the place our driver recommended. Simple sleeping arrangements and food (fried potatoes) for around $6-$8. Dress warmly. Temperatures dropped to -15 Celsius when we were there in early October.
• Murghab: We stayed with our driver for 10 Tajik somoni ($6), including dinner and breakfast. There are several other guesthouses in town.
• Wakhan Valley: ACTED offers a series of home stays that your driver is likely to know about. Or, just ask around at the local store. Expect to pay from 5-30 somoni, depending upon the place and food options. Don't expect water for bathing and bring toilet paper with you for the outhouses. We bathed, very gratefully, at the hot springs in Bibi Fatima and Garam Chasma.
• Khorog: For its lovely hosts, delicious food and hot showers, The Pamir Lodge is a great place to stay in Khorog. The Pamir Lodge is located across the river from the market near a school and friendly bee keeper whose bees produce some of the world’s strappiest honey.

Food and Eating in the Pamir Mountains

You don't come to the Pamirs to eat. In Murghab, we ate yak meat and yak yogurt, both of which were both surprisingly tasty. After that, we mainly ate fried potatoes, a grain resembling bulghur wheat, bread and tea until we reached saturation…and the town of Khorog. A wider variety of food may be available during the summer months, but pack power bars, nuts and dried fruit and other goodies to get you, your mates, and your driver through sparse eating opportunities.

We highly recommend ordering kurtob , a fresh, light layered dish made with strips of bread, homemade yogurt, onions, tomatoes and coriander, at the Pamir Lodge in Khorog. A welcome treat after a week of bland fried potatoes and uninspired bread.

Pamir Highway and Wakhan Valley Sites

The following is a bulleted list of sites and markers along the famed Pamir Highway, all the way from Osh , Kyrgyzstan to Khorog, Tajikistan. This particular list follows the southern route (Langar to Ishkashim) along the Wakhan Valley that traces the Tajik-Afghan border.

We offer this up not for our casual readers, but for those headed to the Pamir Mountain region. We found the Lonely Planet Central Asia to be mildly confusing, particularly when we tried to determine the most significant points of interest in sequence along the Pamir Highway. This list may also help you in labeling all of the photos you’ll likely take on your journey along the Pamir Highway. Even armed with a GPS geotagging device, it was helpful to have this list to reconcile where we’d been with all the photos we took.

In order to derive the maximum amount of value from your drive along the Pamir Highway, consider carrying this list, your guide book (e.g. Lonely Planet) and a detailed map of the Pamir Mountain region and the M41 Highway.

START: Osh, Kyrgyzstan

• Papan Reservoir off to the right
• Along the Toldik river
• Chigirchik Pass at 2406 meters
• Kichi Karakol
• Taldyk Pass at 3615 meters
• 21 of the 33 km on A372 to Sary Mogol
• Pik Lenina at 7134 meters
• Kyrgyz border post at Bordoba
• Tajik Border
• Kyzyl-Art Pass
• Uy Bulak Pass at 4232 meters
• Eastern side of lake, just before Kara Kul village, home stay and saka kurgan and solar calendar
• Lake Karakul at 3914 meters
• Just before Akbajtal Pass, caravanserai
• Akbajtal Pass at 4655 meters
• Tabortakbajtal
• Chechekty (museum, too)
• Saly Unkjur Cave
• Mamazir, home stay
• Neizatash Pass at 4314 meters
• Chatyr Tash (rock formation)
• Off road to Bash Gumbez
• Aluchur (Alichur) at 3863 meters
• Lake Sasyk Kul
• Lake Tuz Kul
• Khargush Pass at 4344 meters
• Hausibeks Viewpoint
• Khargush (on Afghan border)
• Past Tilabay Nature Reserve on left
• Castle and petroglyphs (just before Langar)
• Zong (castle)
• Zugvand (solar calendar)
• Shirgin (mazar, shrine)
• Vrang (castle, shrine, cave, museum) – kids led us up
• Yamg (solar calendar, museum)
• Yamchun (baths, castle)
• Ptup (mazar/shrine)
• Zmudg (solar calendar, shrine, dune)
• Past Pik Karl Marx at 6723 meters
• Shitkharv (waterfall, mazar/shrine)
• Darshai (castle, petroglyphs, mazar/shrine)
• Boibar (Ramanit)
• Namadgut-Bolo – where we stayed
• Namadgut-Poyon (mazar/shrine)
• Ryn (solar calendar, mazar/shrine)
• Pyanj River
• Ishkashim (at 2510 meters)
• Border cross at Darwan (to Sultan Ishkashim, Afghanistan)
• Malvoj (hot spring)
• Kozideh (can off-road to Bagush)
• Andarob (off to Snib, Garam-Chashma)
• Pish (café)

END: Khorog (at 2070 meters)

About daniel noll, 2 thoughts on “pamir mountains travel: a beginner’s guide”.

Hello Audrey and Daniel,

It was very exciting to read the story of your encounter with the soldiers! Bravo, great presence of mind! I was also quite surprised that Fatima is believed to be a prophet despite being a female. The last I heard, it said that there were 25 prophets in Islam. Although the number seems to vary depending on which brand one is following. Hopefully some day I will be able to visit the places too! thanks! Priyank

@Priyank: Fortunately, my instincts were right when we encountered these soldiers. I just tried to keep myself calm so that they would also stay calm.

This area is a really unique part of the world and the hospitality is humbling. It’s a bit difficult to get to, but I highly recommend a visit.

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10 Reasons To Visit The Pamirs

Updated November 2023 ,  10 Reasons To Visit The Pamirs was originally written in January 2017

The Pamir Mountains that wrap around and zig-zag the eastern half of Tajikistan are the country’s #1 tourist destination. But even as the #1 tourist attraction in the country, they are still widely untouched. Check out these 10 reasons to visit the Pamirs!

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1. The World’s Most Epic Road Trip

The Bam i Dunya as it’s known to the Pamiris- The Roof Of The World: The  Pamir Highway  is the mother of all road trips. This is surely one of the world’s grandest adventures whether you drive it or cycle it.

The Pamir Highway will take you over high-altitude mountain passes surrounded by icy peaks and dotted with Kyrgyz yurt camps and Pamiri settlements.

Then of course there are all those side trips you can take from the Pamir Highway- The  Wakhan Valley ,  Bartang Valley , Pshart & Madiyan Valleys, Mountain Lakes of Bachor… just to name a few.

The Pamir Highway will bring you through the biggest province of Tajikistan, the  GBAO  ( Gorno Badakshan Autonomous Oblast ). Make sure you get your permit when you  apply for your Tajik visa .

I definitely recommend grabbing a copy of Bradt’s Tajikistan guidebook if you’re starting to plan your travels in the Pamir and beyond.

Plan your own visit to the Pamirs: The  Ultimate Pamir Highway Guide Need help narrowing down where to go? Check out my 10 day Pamir Highway itinerary

2. All The Icy Pinnacles

93% of Tajikistan is mountainous, and trust me- there’s no shortage of mountains in the GBAO.

The Pamir Mountains are home to countless peaks over 6000 meters and two that are over 7,000 meters.

One of my favorite places in the Pamirs? The  Khafrazdara Valley

3. Off The Beaten Path Adventures

You already veered off the beaten path if you decided to book a ticket to Tajikistan, but a trip out to visit the Pamirs is a guaranteed off-the-beaten-path adventure.

With countless escapades to be had up the side valleys leading off the Pamir Highway and more, there’s no shortage of excitement around every twist and turn.

Wanna Visit The Lake Pictured Above? Everything You Need to Know to Visit  Lake Sarez

4. World Class Hospitality

The whole of Tajikistan is one of the most welcoming countries on Earth, but the Pamiri hospitality?  Legendary .

The people living in the Pamirs are known to be some of the most friendly, welcoming, and generous people you’ll ever come across.

It may be due to the sect of Islam-  Ismailism  that is practiced throughout much of the mountainous region that treats its guests as gifts from God.

Or it may be a product of survival in the harsh climate where the winters are long, distances great, and the people few & far between.

Either way, expect to be welcomed in with open arms to many homes with a warm cup of chai and bread to go around.

5. Turquoise Mountain Lakes

The Pamirs are home to no shortage of beautiful lakes with high-altitude mountain backdrops.

Take a hike:  The 10 best treks in Tajikistan

6. The Best Treks You’ve Never Heard Of

Visit the Pamirs and you’ll open the flood gates to a wealth of amazing treks- many of which you’ll be hard-pressed to find many other hikers on.

Some favorites? The Bachor Mountain Lakes,  Khafrazdara Valley  & Grum Grijmailo Glacier,  Lake Sarez , Pik Engles Meadows,  Jizeu , and so many more!

Read up on trekking in the Pamirs and its side valleys in the  Tajik Wakhan Valley Guide ,  Bartang Valley Guide , and in the  Pamir Highway Guide .

I recommend getting a copy of Jan Bakker’s Trekking in Tajikistan to help you plan out the treks you’ll take on in the Pamir, Jan has been an excellent resource over the years in my travels and hiking adventures in Tajikistan.

Looking for an awesome overnight trek in the Pamirs? Check out  Jizeu

7. Diverse Cultures

The Pamir region of Tajikistan is home to 3% of the country’s 8.7 million inhabitants. Even though the Pamirs only make up a small number of the population it has no shortage of diverse cultures.

You’ll find ethnic Kyrgyz still living a nomadic lifestyle in the lunar-looking reaches of the Eastern Pamir.

In the Wakhan Valley bordering Afghanistan, you’ll find the Wakhi people, and up the meandering Bartang Valley you’ll find the Bartangi people with a language all their own… and that’s just to name a small handful of the people that inhabit these mountains.

8. Lunar Landscapes

As you climb higher and higher to the high plateau in the Eastern Pamir you’ll start to notice the lack of trees and increasingly space-like scenery. Places like the Khargush Pass and the shores of Lake Karakul will have you feeling like you’re on another planet.

Learn more about these otherworldly landscapes in the  Eastern Pamir Travel Guide

9. Silk Road Fortresses

Dotting the  Wakhan Valley  are several ancient Silk Road fortresses, some that date back to the Kingdom of Kushan. Travel along the Pamir Highway and there are many sun calendars and petroglyphs to explore in settlements and in the mountains nearby.

Wanna add the Tajik Wakhan to your Pamir Highway adventure? Start planning with the  Wakhan Valley Travel Guide

10. Glimpses Into Afghanistan

So you’ve heard about the Afghanistan War in the media that has seemed to endlessly rage on year after year.

Once you reach the community of Qala i Khumb and continue along the Pamir Highway you’ll hug the border with Afghanistan all the way into the Wakhan Valley.

In some areas, the river Panj only separates the two countries by a few meters, leaving you feeling you could high-five the people on the other side.

Once many travelers get a peek into the seemingly peaceful and calm  Afghan Wakhan Corridor , they can’t help their curiosity and end up heading back to Khorog to get an  Afghan Visa  to explore the other side.

Wanna visit Afghanistan? Here is everything you need to know in the  Afghanistan Travel Guide

Have Any Questions About Visiting The Pamirs?

Ask in the comments section below.

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Murghab Travel Guide + 4 Things To Do In Murghab, Tajikistan

The Beautiful Bolshoi Allo Lake In Tajikistan’s Fann Mountains

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4 thoughts on “10 reasons to visit the pamirs”.

My wife and I traveled the 5 Stans, not Pakistan or Afghanistan. It was an awesome, fabulous great experience. The food was OK to very good, the people were friendly, helpful and very curious about Americans. The younger people, especially students, all wanted to come to the U.S. (at least when we visited). One of 3 great adventures of our lives (The Trans-Siberian RailRoad-the local not tourist one; The Brazilian Rain Forest are the other two). There are four more places I want to visit for and extended time: Kashmir, Siberian Tundra, Tuva, and the Pamirs. Given the world, the Pamirs will be next.

That’s great, enjoy the Pamir when you get out there!

I have to say I randomly stumbled across you blog looking for info about Alaska travel and got sucked into your writing and somehow ended up over here! I’ve never heard of the Pamir Mountains or Highway, or Tajikistan for that matter- but WOW! Your images are outstanding. You’ve now sparked an interest in visiting for me. It looks like a fascinating area to visit, hope to make it one day!

Thanks for all the helpful info on Alaska btw, and now Tajikistan 🙂 Fabi

Hi Fabi, Thank you! Glad you’ve gotten some useful info out of all these posts! I hope you make it to both Tajikistan and AK one day 🙂

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Tour operators

TOUR OPERATORS IN THE PAMIRS

Discover the Pamirs / Sarez Travel – Saidmamad Gulomshoev, Barchidif – see here . Saidmamad also acts as a guide in the Bartang valley and elsewhere.

Badakhshan Travel Company – Khorog – see here .

Ibex Pamir Tourism (Avazbek Alifbekov) – Savnob, Bartang valley – see here .

Pamir Ecotourism – Khorog – see here .

Pamir Guides – see here .

Pamir Highway (Sharaf) – Khorog – tours through Pamir Highway and Wakhan (Tajikistan and Afghanistan) trekking etc. – see here .

Pamir Highway Adventure (successor to Murghab Ecotourism Association) – Murghab – see here .

Pamir Silk Travel Company – see here .

Pamir Highway Company

TOUR GUIDES FROM THE PAMIRS

Lailash Bakhtaliev – +992 934 12 0006

Odina Nurmamadov – +992 905 901 052

Sobdulamon Saidkarimov – +992 940 04 0004

TOUR OPERATORS IN ZERAFSHAN

Marco Polo – Ruknobod, Penjikent – See here .

OTHER CENTRAL ASIAN TOUR OPERATORS

Orom Travel – Dushanbe – see here .

Pamir Adventure – Dushanbe – see here .

Pamir Peaks – Dushanbe – See here .

Tajik Safari – Dushanbe – See here .

Silk Road Explore – Bishkek – See here .

Travel Tajikistan / Fantastic Asia – Bishkek – See here .

Central Asia Travel / Pamir Expeditions – Tashkent, Osh, Moscow – See here .

ClimberCA – Tashkent, Dushanbe, Moscow – see here and here .

Asia-Travel – Tashkent – see here and here .

WESTERN TOUR OPERATORS

The following tour operators are offering Tajikistan in their programme (most include the Pamirs in their planned itinerary)- for more up-to-date information please check the links given or contact the service providers concerned.

Snow Leopard Tours – Melbourne/Dushanbe/Khorog – see here .

Nomadasaurus see here .

Clearskies – Innsbruck – see here .

Bestway Tours & Safaris – Burnaby B.C. – see here .

Explorator – Paris – see here .

La Balaguère – Arrens Marsous – see here .

Allibert Trekking – Chapareillan, Chamonix, Toulouse, Paris – see here .

Les Ateliers du Voyage – Paris – see here .

Women Rockin’ Pamirs – see here .

Nomad-Reisen – Gerolstein – see here .

Hauser exkursionen – Munich – see here .

biss-Reisen – Berlin – see here .

Ikarus Tours – Königstein / Ts. – see here .

a&e erlebnis:reisen – Hamburg – see here .

Ararat-Tours – Dresden – see here .

Viaggi Avventure nel Mondo – Rome – see here .

Netherlands

DimSum Reizen – Utrecht (catering also for Belgian and German markets) – see here.

Battuta Reizen – Amsterdam – see here .

Koning Aap – Amsterdam – see here .

Blini Reizen – Utrecht – see here .

K2 Adventures – Omsk – see here .

Banoa – Barcelona – see here .

Switzerland

PamirLink – “more than just holidays” – Bern – see here .

ARABICA Orient-Reisen – Heimberg – see here .

Voyages et Culture – Lausanne – see here .

United Kingdom

Steppes Travel – Cirencester – see here .

KE Adventure – Keswick – see here .

Regent Holidays – Bristol – see here .

Secret Compass – Forsbrook, Staffordshire – see here .

Untamed Borders – Sandwich, Kent – see here .

World Expeditions – Wimbledon, London – see here .

Undiscovered Destinations – North Tyneside – see here .

Intrepid Travel – London – see here .

Mir Corporation – Seattle (and Tashkent) – see here .

This list comprises graduates of two separate courses offered on the Khorog campus of UCA:

The UCA certificate programme ” Mountain Tour Operator – MTO ” is directed at developing practical skills in organizing and developing operational business activity with specific focus on mountain tourism as well as business theory. The students are expected to gain skills in the following areas: Essence of mountain tourism, Development of tourism routes and related services, Marketing and promotion of tourism services, Safety, Legislation matters, Business and Finance management, Information technology in Tourism, Business English in tourism, Final project on developing a business plan on initiating and operating tourism service.

UCA Guides training is a short program and consists of two modules: 1. Natural, cultural and historical heritage of the Pamirs, and 2. Guides training: (mountain excursion tourism guides; horse tourism; auto tourism; educational tourism; eco-tourism; ethnographic tourism).

MOUNTAIN GUIDES

See here , here and here .

A list of villages where there are PECTA-sponsored home-stays can be obtained from PECTA – email here .

Other information resources:

Tajikistan Gateway: https://www.tajik-gateway.org/

Lonely Planet: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/tajikistan

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• Hotel booking
• Planing trip
• Tour booking

Welcome to Pamir Tour Service!

Tour agency "Pamir Travel Ltd" is relatively young, activity of which was began since 1992, but for this short period it obtained enough fame and popularity in the tourist market of Central Asia Tour agency "Pamir Travel Ltd" offers to You big choice of different interesting and fascinating tours on the whole territory of Central Asia. If You look at the geographical atlas, You can see at the South-East of Central Asia - Tajikistan, which borders with Uzbekistan, Kirghizstan, Afghanistan and China. travelling with us on the wide space of Central Asia, and also on the Great Silk Road You can visit ancient-historical cities of Penjikent, Khujand, Istiravshan (Ura-Tube), Isfara, Hissar, Kabadian, Pamir, Vakhan, Ishkashim, Vrang, Zong and etc. Our routes pass from sun dried deserts up to high snow covered peaks, where You'll happen in the wonderful mountainous country - TAJIKISTAN .

  All our routes lie in the unique Central Asian region of the Great Silk Road, where the most ancient monuments of history and culture are situated. It neighbors with such famous mountain system of the world, as Pamir, Pamir-Alay, Tien-Shan. Nature has awarded with a special beauty these wonderful places, here deserts neighbor with green oasis, fertile sunny valleys with high mountain peaks, alpine grasses with eternal ice-glaciers. Here the regions which still kept their first creature, strike with their fabulous-picturesque lakes, lying on the necklet of snowy mountains, with fast mountain rivers carrying turbulent-crystal water and with the aroma of mountain flowers and forests. All these makes an extreme condition for nearing the man with nature. travelling with us you'll get acquainted closely with ancient culture and ethnography of the people living in Central Asia, with their different traditions and hospitality. You can choose for Yourself any kind of mountain TRAVELs on Pamir, Pamir-Alay, Tien-shan.

Our company "Pamir Travel Ltd" organizes many different fascinating and very interesting program of TRAVELs along TAJIKISTAN and Central Asia.

- Mountain travels, trekking. - Adventurous tours in Pamir and ecotourism, - Mountaineering in Fann mountains - Pamir; - Jeeptour along Great Pamir. - Active rest in the mountains Pamir. - Ecological tours. - Climbing in Pamir. Pamir-Alay and in Fann mountains. - Expeditions on Pamir, Tien-Shan. - Rafting in mountainous river of Zerafshan valley, and Pamir-Alay. - Excursions along Great Silk Road on the whole territory Tajikistan and Central Asia. - Excursions along the ancient towns in Orient - Tajikistan. - One day excursions programs on cities Central Asia. - Excursion program in Penjikent and picnic in mountain, full day program in Pendjikent. - City tours on the ancient historical towns of Central Asia. - Ethnographic and cognitive travels on Central Asia. - Horse riding tours. - Helicopter excursions. - Heli-ckiing. - Combined tours on ancient towns of Central Asia and mountain TREKKING. - Two-three days trekking and excursions in the countries of Central Asia. - Travels on deserts and in the mountain spaces.

PAMIR TRAVEL Co. INVITE YOU TO TRAVEL WITH US ALONG WHOLE TAJIKISTAN AND CENTRAL ASIAN countries. We offer to you attention: Adventure tours: trekking, mountaineering, rafting, deserts, horse and camel riding, and also fascinating tours in ancient legendary and historical cities along the GREAT SILK ROAD.

Head office in Tajikistan: Dushanbe Tel: (+992 37)224-02-13; mob: (+992)93 599-3737; mob:(+992)93 896-35-05 Branch office in Khujand: tel/fax:(+992 3422)4-30-20; mob: (+99292)771-9321; (+992 93) 187-93-21; Branch office in Penjikent: tel/fax:(+992 3475) tel:5-50-88; 5-31-34; (+99292)845-05-40; (+99293)566-37-37 Branch In Uzbekistan: Our address: Branch in Uzbekistan: Tashkent, Farkhadskaya str. 20-8 Tel/fax: (+998 71) 250-87-37; (+998 71)250-87-39; mobile:(+998 90)187-93-21; Work mob: (+998 90) 973-9087; director: (+998 90)939-73-29; (+998 90) 174-93-21; E-mail: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected], [email protected] Copyright © 2024 Pamirtourservice.com - All Rights Reserved.

The Pamirs Eco-Cultural Tourism Association (PECTA) was established in April 2008 with the support of the Mountain Societies Development Support Programme (MSDSP), a project of the Aga Khan Foundation and is a non-commercial organization which functions in accordance with the civil code, law about non-commercial organization and with the present legislation of the Republic of Tajikistan. Advanced settings.

The Pamirs Eco-Cultural Tourism Association (PECTA) was established in April 2008 with the support of the Mountain Societies Development Support Programme (MSDSP), a project of the Aga Khan Foundation and is a non-commercial organization which functions in accordance with the civil code, law about non-commercial organization and with the present legislation of the Republic of Tajikistan.

Asadsho Zoolshoev

Mirzo mirzoev.

Communication Officer

Firdavs Imomkulov

Financial Accountant

Matthias Poeschel

Gerrit sauer, visit us in chorugh, tourism office.

PECTA Information Center welcomes you to the Pamirs. Find us in Khorog City Park. This one-stop shop helps you make the most out of your time, and enhance your trip. At PECTA’s Information Center, we support you to plan your trip, book day-trips and reserve accommodation. Discover the latest information on current road condition, events and festivals in the Pamirs. Our shop has a selection of guide books, maps and postcards. In addition, we rent out a broad range of camping gear and you can use our laundry service . For a small fee, you can use Wi-Fi and enjoy a fresh brewed coffee (probalby the only fresh coffee in Khorog).

Pecta Tourism Office Khorog

What we are proud of

We support local tourism in Tajikistan. In recent years, we have developed strong partnerships with national and international tourism players. We pay special attention to the support of homestays. With this micro-tourism, the money goes directly to the owners.

We work together with…

Organisations, travel companies, first place sustainable tourism award in 2018., awarded at the international tourism convention (itb), berlin.

First place among the 2018 and third place among the 2019 sustainable destinations Top 100 ” Best Of Asia-Pacific ” series in recognition of its efforts towards responsible tourism and distinctive appeal.

The destination promotes sustainable tourism as a way to support local people by creating fair job opportunities for everyone, including disadvantaged groups such as single mothers and people from remote areas.

1st Place Sustainable Tourism Award in 2018

We are proud to have been ranked first in the Top 100 Sustainable Destinations in the „Best of Asia-Pacific“ category in 2018 in recognition of its efforts towards responsible tourism and distinctive appeal. In 2019, we achieved third place.

• High Pamirs
• Fann Mountains
• Fedchenko Glacier
• Selective Hikes
• Horse Riding
• Expeditions
• Custom Trips
• Scheduled Trips
• Trip Details
• Lodging & Transportation
• Rental list
• Reviews & Partners
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Find your Adventure

Scheduled tours.

Extreme Trekking on Fedchenko – World’s longest glacier

Explore the Silk Road: Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan

Expedition to Wakhan of Afghanistan

Ascension of Karl Marks peak 6726 m

Mountains and Minarets: Culture & Trekking

At-Chabysh Horse Festival Tour

Discover the differences, popular outdoor activities.

Planning a better travel

Our team consists of local and foreign enthusiasts with extensive experience in adventure travel, and we always strive to share the passion for exploration with our curious clients. We have a truly personalized service and always try to ensure that you get the most out of your trip. We have not only an individual approach to our partner agencies, but always take into account the desire of each of our clients.

Thank you guys for perfect trip! Coming home is always bittersweet, a mix of being delighted to be back among family (my new nephew was born in London as we crossed the border at Kyzyl Art), along with missing the mountains and music, the amazing hospitality, and the weather, obviously.

Susanna Walker

As for the music… We were treated to a father-and-son display of the rubab, a lute like instrument, and drum in a traditional Pamiri house, in the village of Yemts, in the Bartang valley, Southern Tajikistan. The lop-sided rhythm so common in Pamiri music was enchanting and hypnotic.

Guillaume de VAUDREY

It wouldn't have been such an incredible trip if it hadn't been for the wonderful company of the guide and Gulnazar. They were both brilliant and made every effort to ensure our trip was unforgettable. Gulnazar was an absolute hero and it's a great testament to your operations that you employ such a skilled driver.

Malachy O'Neill & Helen

You have to visit the Pamirs with the guides of the Pamir Trips! Sharaf really shows you the best places en goes for the right trails. He takes his responsibility, is a good host en does everything to make your trip unforgettable!

Ellie Potiek

Pamir Trips - a Tajikistan based Tour-operator, specialized in organizing tours and treks all along the Silk Road, and able to provide full travel services all around Central Asia countries.

Destinations

• Fedchenko Glacier Area
• Afghan Wakhan
• Lodging & Transport

124 Lenin Street Khorog, Tajikistan 736000

CALL US NOW:

+992 93111 2533

+992 90004 1199

Email: [email protected]

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Pamir Trekking Adventure

This 9 day journey will take you back to another century when people lived in a very different way unlike so many you hear about, this trip is sure to be a true adventure of your lifetime..

The far corners of civilization, the peculiar life, the meeting of cultures, and ancient history is some that could characterize this route. Through this region passed one of the arteries of the Great Silk Road – the route through the Pamir Mountains. Pamir is one of the highest mountain systems on our planet with up to 4’900m above sea level. You also can overview the famous Hindu Kush mountain on the Afghan side.

What to expect when choosing this route?

• Pristine mountain scenery.
• Badakhshi & Wakhi hospitality, familiarize with their interesting lifestyles
• Driving along the famous Pamir Highway
• The total length of the route – is 1700 km.
• The temperature during the tour: from 0°C degrees to +30°C
• Maximum height of 4650 m - Minimum height of 500m

Tour in details:

Day 1: Dushanbe – Kulob – Kalai Khum Today we will go to the village of Kalai Khum through the city of Kulob. You will see Norak lake on the way. The highest point of the day is the Shurabad pass (2267 m), after which the drive along the Afghan border begins. This part will amaze you with its unique mountains - this is the Territory of the Pamir Mountains. For centuries, the Pamirs have inspired the world's greatest explorers - Marco Polo, Xuan Zang and Mirza Muhammad Haidar. And now you have the opportunity to come here. You will pass along the natural border - the Panj River. Having visited the Pamirs, many travelers called this giant mountain system the ocean of blue and white mountains.

Day 2: Kalai Khum – Khorog In the morning we continue along the border, enjoying the views of Afghanistan. The road to Khorog will take about 5-6 hours. Khorog is perhaps one of the tiniest cities on the world map. It is surrounded by rocky mountains on all four sides. The city was built at the confluence of 3 rivers, where the Shokhdara River and the Gund River flow into the Panj River. Among the Pamiris, there is a high percentage of people with blond hair, fair skin and blue eyes. The Pamir Mountains are the highest inhabited mountains in the world after the Himalayas in Tibet. Life in the mountains has changed the traditions of the locals.

Day 3: Khorog – Ishkashim – Langar We continue our adventure towards the Wakhan valley. Wakhan, known as it, served as a buffer zone between the Russian and British empires in the 19th century. Located in the heart of Asia, Pamir is a corner of skyscrapers, snow-capped majestic mountains, clear blue waters of lakes and rivers, wide valleys and dry deserts. For hundreds of years, people have referred to these highest mountains in the world as the "Roof of the World". Today you will understand why. On the way, we will stop at the Kah-Kakha fortress dating back to the 3rd century. Here you will have a stunning view of the Afghan side of the Wakhan. Continuing towards Wakhan, we will have a detour uphill to visit the Yamchun fortresses and further down the hillside is the Bibi Fatima hot spring. In Yamg village, we will visit the reconstructed house of the Sufi mystic Mubarak Kadam, who died in 1910. Near this house is a stone pillar with a hole, which he used to calculate the solar calendar. Another stop will be in the village of Vrang. Here is a Buddhist complex dating from the 4th-7th centuries.

Day 4: Langar – Bulunkul & Yashilkul Lakes – Murgab In the morning we continue driving along the Khargush valley. On the way, you will pass through the Khargush pass (4344 m). The most beautiful lakes of the Pamirs - Yashilkul and Bulunkul, spread at an altitude of 3,700 meters above sea level, are located in the Murghab region. The colour of the water in Bulunkul is a subtle weave of purple and blue in the sunlight. Such species of fish are found in abundance in the lake. It is possible to see yaks, a unique species of domestic animals that share features with cows and sheep, which were traditionally used as beasts of burden, in addition to milk and meat products. Upon arrival at the lake, you will have a short walk of about 1-2 hours around the lake. Then you drive to Murgab along the legendary Pamir Highway.

Day 5: Murgab – Karakul Lake – Murgab Right on the highway of the Pamir Tract is situated the light-blue lake of Karakul (3, 815 m), the name of which can be translated as “The Black Lake”. On the way to the lake you will drive over the highest Ak Baital pass (4 655 m). Karakul is the highest large mountain lake of the world, excluding those in Tibet and Titicaca. The lake is situated in a meteorite crater and surrounded by swampy and wet meadows and bogs with a rich flora and fauna and several endemic species. Flooding, melting permafrost and buried ice sheets shape the landscape with small hillocks and a large variety of small creeks and water courses between 3 500 and 4 000 m. The rich plant cover is grazed by wild and domestic ungulates. You will go for a short hike around the lake and then you drive back to Murgab for an overnight.

Day 6: Murgab – Khorog In the morning we will drive to Khorog along Pamir Highway, known as M41 Pamir Tract. It is considered the second highest mountain road after highway of Tibet. The road lies over mountains and passes on the elevations of more than 4 000 meters above sea level. On the way you will drive Koitezak pass (4 271 m). The almost inaccessible landscape and the rocky mountains of this corner of the world have given safe haven to a unique diversity of wildlife. The Pamirs provides a large and thriving population of Marco Polo sheep, the largest sheep in the world, with all year round and a strong population of the highly endangered snow leopard.

Day 7: Khorog – Bartang valley – hike to Jizev Today we will drive to Bartang valley. The Bartang Valley is one of the wildest and most memorable valleys in the western Pamirs. Even the Pamiri themselves consider the Bartang valley as the maybe most prototypical region of their homeland. You will drive to the junction with Jizev side valley and hike up for about 2-3 hours up to the village. Today you will spend the night in a real Pamir traditional house and get acquainted with the mountain life of the locals. Overnight and dinner with locals.

Day 8: Jizev – Kalai Khum In the morning you will hike down to the main road where your driver will pick you up and drive you to Kalai Khum. The road from Rushan to Kalai-Khum is the same as before. This area consists of high rocky mountains over 6,000 meters high and only one road could be built. Passing through the Pamirs, tourists have a rare opportunity not only to admire the beauty of virgin nature, but also to learn more about the ethnography, history and life of the highlanders and thus imagine how the history of mankind developed, like in a story. creation. Along the way, we will stop at small villages to interact with the locals and see how they live. Settlements are located on both sides of the river in narrow mountain valleys. On the other side of the river you will see rocky Afghan villages and gardens.

Day 9: Kalai Khum – Khoburubot pass – Dushanbe In the morning we will drive to Dushanbe via mountain road. You will drive over high Khoburubot Pass (3 252) known as Western Pamir Tract. The road goes through the most picturesque river valley and amazing gorges in the terrain, where one can stop for rest and shoot photos of the mountain and rivers. On the way you will see small villages and meet local people. Tajiks are by nature hard working, hospitable, and kind-hearted. This nation greatly respects its traditions and folklore. This trip is attractive for the lovers of exotics, those curious about the ethnic and cultural diversity and captivated by the beauty of wild nature. Dinner will be in a restaurant. Night is in a hotel. End of the trip!

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THE ESSENTIAL PAMIR HIGHWAY GUIDE

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A remote route through high mountainous lands, a journey on the Pamir Highway is both a geographical feast for the senses and a cultural treat. Mountains, valleys, lakes and high plateaus serve up an ever changing array of spectacular vistas, while the divergence between the Tajik West and Kyrgyz East offers a fascinating insight into the peoples of this starkly beautiful region. It’s this variety that helps to make a trip through the Pamirs so special.

When planning your own Pamir Highway road trip , there are a number of important things to be aware of. In this complete Pamir Highway Guide we cover everything you need to know, including budget, transport options, which route to take, food, accommodation, and all the rest. We’ve also created a detailed map which can be downloaded for offline use on the road.

Read through the full guide, or jump to a specific section by clicking the links below

Pamir highway guide.

PAMIR HIGHWAY VIDEO PAMIR HIGHWAY MAP WHAT ROUTE? SIDE TRIPS & HIKES PAMIR HIGHWAY TRANSPORT ACCOMMODATION FOOD & WATER THINGS TO KNOW WHICH DIRECTION & HOW LONG? WHAT TO PACK PAMIR HIGHWAY BUDGET GETTING THERE & AWAY USEFUL RESOURCES

WATCH THE VIDEO

Watch the behind the scenes version of our Pamir Highway road trip on our Instagram Stories Highlights

PAMIR HIGHWAY MAP

We’ve marked each of the three Pamir Highway routes outlined below on this map, along with key sights, hikes, side trips, suggested accommodation, etc. Tap the menu button at the top left for more info, to toggle routes on and off, and to switch between satellite and terrain view. See the expandable info boxes below for tips on how to save this map and download offline versions for use on the road.

HOW TO SAVE THIS MAP (ONLINE VERSION)

To save this map to use online on desktop or mobile just tap the star symbol at the top. When you open Google Maps on your phone, navigate to ‘Saved’ at the bottom, then swipe along to ‘Maps’ at the top. You’ll find this map in your list of maps. On desktop, click the three lines at the top left, select ‘Your Places’, then ‘Maps’. Click the map, then scroll down and select ‘Open in My Maps’ to access the interactive version.

Alternatively, just tap the rectangle symbol at the top right of the map in this blog post to view the My Maps version larger on desktop. Note that this map is best viewed on desktop, using the ‘My Maps’ version instead of the mobile Google Maps version (which is less interactive).

Unfortunately, it’s not possible to view this map offline, but we’ve created a similar version for offline use as per below.

HOW TO SAVE THIS MAP (OFFLINE VERSION)

To use an offline version of this map with all the same pins and routes marked, first download Maps.Me ( iOS / Android ), then download our Pamir Highway Travel Guide bookmarks, and select open with Maps.Me.  You can easily plan your route in Maps.me by tapping the bookmark for your start point and selecting ‘route from’, then tap your end point bookmark and select ‘route to’. If you want to plot a different route to the one suggested by Maps.me, just tap a third (or fourth, fifth, etc.) bookmark between the start and end points and select ‘add stop’. You can use Maps.me offline, which is ideal when you’re travelling through the Pamir.

If you prefer to use an alternative offline mapping app such as Gaia ( iOS / Android ), you can download the GPX format of the map here .

WHAT ROUTE?

The actual Pamir Highway refers to a largely Soviet built road known as the M41, traversing the Pamir Mountains through Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Kyrgyzstan. While the majority of travellers will journey on sections of the M41, a trip on the Pamir Highway rarely means actually sticking to this road the whole way. For most, the Pamir Highway is a more general term used to describe a route between Dushanbe and Osh through the Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Region (GBAO). That route will likely include the Wakhan Valley, and possibly side trips to other valleys along the way. 

Essentially, the way we see it is that the Pamir Highway is whatever journey you decide to make it. With that said, let’s cover a few options.

THE OFFICIAL M41

This road runs between Dushanbe and Osh, via Tavildara, Kalai Khum, Khorog, Jelondy, Alichur, Murghab, Karakul and Sary Tash. This route is approximately 1250 km in length. Unless you’re a purist, chances are the only sections you will travel on are Kalai Khum to Khorog, and Alichur through to Osh. Most people take the southern route from Dushanbe to Kalai Khum via Kulob (better road, open all year round) instead of the northern route via Tavildara. Between Khorog and Alichur, most travel via the Wakhan Valley and Khargush Pass, instead of the direct route via Jelondy.

THE TOURIST ROUTE

The most common route for people travelling the Pamir Highway is via the Wakhan Valley. The route runs between Dushanbe and Osh via Kalai Khum, Khorog, Ishkashim, Langar, Alichur, Murghab, Karakul and Sary Tash. It’s approximately 1500 km in length. The Wakhan is spectacular, and definitely worth seeing on your Pamir Highway trip.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTES

If you want to explore away from the main tourist route then a great option is travelling from Langar (in the Wakhan) to Murghab via Zorkul Nature Reserve and Jarty Gumbez. You’ll need a permit to visit Zorkul, and realistically this route is only possible if you have your own transport, be it bicycle, 4WD or motorbike. It’s also best to ask locally at the PECTA office in Khorog about the “road” conditions as it can get really boggy around Zorkul, making this route tricky or impossible full stop.

 If you travel this route you’ll be treated to views unlike any other on the Pamir Highway. You’ll also encounter an abundance of wildlife (including the elusive Marco Polo sheep if you’re lucky), discover Iron Age burial grounds and have the pleasure of soaking away your aches and pains in the hot springs at Jarty Gumbez.

This was the route we took and loved it. You can read more about the journey here .

If you are unable to secure a permit for Zorkul, or the road conditions make this section impassable, it’s also possible to get to Jarty Gumbez via a couple of turn offs on the main M41 between Alichur and Murghab (GPS coordinates 37.8351, 73.6732 and 37.9754, 73.9568 ). You could also attempt the route between Murghab and Jarty Gumbez via Shaimak in the very southeast corner of Tajikistan.

SIDE TRIPS & HIKES

There’s an endless number of side trips for you to embark on along the Pamir Highway. Your mode of transport and overall time frame will ultimately dictate which places are possible for you to explore. Here’s a few suggestions.

On the Kalai Khum to Khorog road, a 27 km detour from Rushan up the Bartang Valley brings you to a bridge crossing the raging Bartang River. From here you can hike 2-3 hours to the picturesque village of Jizeu.

Looking down the valley from Upper Jizeu to Lower Jizeu, the mountains of the Bartang Valley in the distance

Looking down the valley from Upper Jizeu to Lower Jizeu

There are homestays here, or you can camp. You can read more about our experience here.

The route is marked on Maps.me ( iOS / Android ).

PEAK ENGELS MEADOW

The Wakhan Valley is one of the absolute highlights of a Pamir Highway journey. Yet so many people rush through, spending just one or two nights here. A great addition to your Wakhan itinerary is a hike up to Peak Engels Meadow, hidden high above Langar at around 4000m. You can do a day hike here from Langar (17 km return) or Zong (26 km return), but even better is to hike over two days and camp at the meadow. The route is marked on Maps.me.

Peak Engels Meadow is a unique place in the Pamirs, one not be missed

Peak Engels Meadow is a unique place in the Pamirs, one not to be missed

PANORAMA RIDGE HIKE/HAUSIBEKS VIEWPOINT

This is a popular short-ish hike near the Khargush Pass between Langar and Alichur. It takes around 3 hours return from the road, offering 360 degree panoramic views.

BULUNKUL & YASHIKUL

This is a common overnight stop on the journey between Langar and Murghab. The village of Bulunkul itself is just a scattering of houses, located nearby Bulunkul Lake. From the village you can hike to a viewpoint over impressive Yashikul Lake. It takes about 2 hours return.

SHORBULAK OBSERVATORY & SHAKHTY CAVE PAINTINGS

A side trip off the M41 near Murghab (GPS coordinates for turn off 37.9754, 73.9568 ) leads you to some neolithic cave paintings at Shakthy ( 37.9075, 74.0166 ) and an incredible vista at the abandoned Shorbulak Observatory ( 37.9307, 74.1519 ). You could also visit these on the way to/from Jarty Gumbez.

MADIAN & PSHART VALLEYS

These are both popular side trips near Murghab. You can hike over the Gumbezkol Pass (4,700 m) between the two valleys, a challenging 17 km hike that takes around 5 hours from the Yurt Camp in the Pshart Valley ( 38.2649, 73.8258 ) to the road in the Madian Valley ( 38.1383, 73.7909 ). The hiking trail is marked on Maps.me.

If you don’t fancy the hike, both are beautiful valleys just to wander. You could also spend a night at the Yurt Camp in the Pshart Valley, or camp. Note that the Eli Suu hot springs (a popular place to visit via the Madian Valley) were washed away and more or less abandoned when we visited. Best to ask locally if they’ve been restored before embarking on the journey out there.

This is a possible side trip off the Pamir Highway route between Murghab and Karakul. It’s around 74 km from the M41 to Rangkul village and back, passing the beautiful lakes of Shorkul and Rangkul. One for the scenery hunters.

There are a couple of yurt camps at scenic Tulparkul (25 km south of Sary Mogul in Kyrgyzstan), making this a perfect alternative to staying in Sary Tash or Sary Mogul itself. The lakes in the area are stunning, and you can climb a nearby hill for great views of Peak Lenin, or head off on a longer hike towards Peak Lenin Base Camp.

ALAY MOUNTAINS TREKKING

Numerous trekking routes in the Alay Mountains to the north of Sary Mogul make this an ideal spot for exploring, either on a multi-day hike or just for a day. Find out more about trekking options here and here .

LOOKING FOR MORE OUTDOOR ADVENTURE IN TAJIKISTAN?

CHECK OUT OUR DETAILED GUIDE TREKKING IN THE FANN MOUNTAINS

PAMIR HIGHWAY TRANSPORT

There are three main options for backpackers looking to travel along the Pamir Highway – private 4WD hire, shared taxis, or hitchhiking. Each has its benefits and drawbacks, and your experience will vary greatly depending on which method you choose. Here’s a rundown of each option, including costs and how to go about organising your travel.

HIRING A 4WD & DRIVER

The way we chose to travel, this method offers you freedom and flexibility, particularly when you pay by the kilometre. It’s also one of the more expensive ways to travel, especially if you’re travelling as one or two people. 

One common way to arrange your own vehicle and driver is through hostels in Dushanbe, Osh or Khorog when you arrive. Hostels tend to have a connection with the same general pool of local drivers. Many also have notice boards to help travellers find others looking to travel at the same time, helping to share the costs. Organising it on the ground is a good option if you don’t mind potentially waiting a few days. You may get a cheaper deal and it gives you the opportunity to meet possible travel buddies face to face. We organised our Toyota Landcruiser and driver through Greenhouse Hostel in Dushanbe. They can also help you find others to share with, as well as offering set tours. Osh Guesthouse is another popular place to arrange your 4WD and driver if you’re travelling in the opposite direction.

Tamriz was one of our two drivers, and we’d recommend him, as would others who have travelled the Pamir Highway with him. You can contact him directly on +992 93 555 4136 or email [email protected] . He speaks English, has a good Landcruiser, is energetic, and passionate about the Pamir.

Another way is to use online sites such as Caravanistan and Indy Guide . This is a good option if you’re keen to have something sorted ahead of time. Caravanistan have an easy to use system and claim to use only high quality drivers and vehicles, declining your request if none are available. They submit your details and request to two competing providers in Osh and Dushanbe/Khorog, as well as giving you the option to join a group. They also have a Pamir Highway ride share forum where you can post your details to maximise your chances of finding others if you want to share the cost*. Indy Guide has links to a number of different individual drivers and providers.

Also have a scroll through Tourradar and Viator , checking the inclusions. They often have individual vehicle and driver hire available.

The standard vehicles are either a Mitsubishi Pajero or Toyota Landcruiser (the better of the two).

A point to note when hiring a vehicle and driver is that they often change in Murghab, regardless of direction of travel.

*Another way to find others to travel with is through the CBT Office in Osh or PECTA in Khorog . Both have a list of travellers looking to join a group.

4WD & DRIVER COST

There are two ways you can pay for this kind of trip. Pay by the kilometre plus a set daily amount for the driver, or agree a set itinerary and upfront price. The first way gives you the freedom to make decisions about where you go along the way, the second way locks you in but you know exactly how much it will cost.

Paying by the Kilometre

Prices range from $0.65-$0.80 per kilometre plus $15-20 per day for the driver (this covers their food and accommodation). Obviously the rate can fluctuate, but at the time of writing, the best rate that reputable operators were offering was $0.65 per kilometre. The ‘standard’ journey from Khorog to Osh or vice versa (via the Wakhan, Bulunkul, Murghab, Karakul and Sary Mogul) is around 900 km. Starting or ending in Dushanbe will bump this up to 1500 km. The route that we took totalled 2100 km. As you are paying per vehicle, this cost can obviously be shared with up to 4 people. 

To avoid any doubt, be sure to take a photo of the odometer at the start of your trip and again at the end. We’re not sure how common this is, but something to note is that if your vehicle has extra large tyres then the odometer won’t accurately display the total kilometres. Your driver will know the correct calculation to figure out the per kilometre rate. This was the case for us when we switched vehicles for the Murghab to Osh journey.

Our driver’s large tyres meant we had to do some calculations and refer to Maps.Me to figure out the real distance we travelled

Paying Up Front

Essentially this is similar to booking on to a tour, paying a set price for a predetermined itinerary. For a standard 7 day itinerary you can expect to pay around $800 – $900 for the car and driver. Again, this cost can be shared with up to 4 people. Chances are, there will be room for slight detours along the way, but you’ll be expected to pay extra per kilometre for anything straying off the agreed route.

SELF DRIVE WITH HIRED 4WD

This option offers you the most freedom when hiring a vehicle, but it also comes with a certain amount of risk. Local drivers know the roads and conditions well, making them better equipped to handle the journey. Saying that, if we decided to travel the Pamir Highway again, this is an option we would seriously consider. However, with prices around $120-130 per day, it’s expensive – often more so than hiring a car and driver together. 

Rental options are limited, but if you are considering it, Visit Alay come highly recommended. English speaking Talant is the man to deal with, one of the two tour operators used by Caravanistan.

SHARED TAXI

This is one of the cheapest ways to travel the Pamir Highway. The flipside of that is it’s pretty uncomfortable and very limited in terms of what you can see and do along the way. Shared taxis really just travel the direct M41 route between Dushanbe, Khorog, Murghab and Osh. You can expect to pay a total of around $80-$100 per person to travel this route via shared taxis.

Options are limited for getting to the Wakhan, requiring you to travel from Khorog to the Wakhan and back to Khorog again, rather than continuing on to Murghab via the Khargush Pass. Shared taxis are non-existent for travel to remote places like Zorkul and Jarty Gumbez. 

Shared taxis have no set departure times, leaving when full. This usually means 6 people squeezed in, with your bags on top. Ask around to find out where local shared taxis depart from and be prepared to arrive early, from 6am, in order to get a seat. In main hubs like Osh, your hostel may be able to arrange a shared taxi to pick you up direct from your accommodation.

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HITCHHIKING

Hitchhiking is quite popular on the Pamir Highway. We met several people travelling this way and in general, they never had to wait too long for a ride. One thing that everyone will tell you though, is that it’s much more difficult to hitchhike for free. As there is no public transport in the region, any available seat is effectively for hire. All locals travelling along this route expect to pay. If you’re planning to hitch, then you should expect to pay a small fee, just like the locals. If you don’t, it’s still possible to travel this way, but you’ll receive many more knockbacks and have to wait much longer for a ride.

Aside from local vehicles, hired vehicles carrying foreign travellers may also have space available. Just be aware that it’s not always down to the tourists whether to pick you up. Extra passengers and bags means extra weight and higher fuel consumption – something many drivers will not be happy about. Sometimes the language barrier can be an issue too. We picked up a few people when we had a driver who spoke good English, and none when communication with our other (somewhat grumpy) driver was difficult.

It’s easiest to hitchhike along the M41 (this doesn’t include the Wakhan, which for many is the main highlight). It’s near impossible to do it in an extremely remote area such as Zorkul or Jarty Gumbez. As always, flexibility in regards to both your itinerary and timeframe is required if you plan to hitch. Budget wise, hitchhiking the whole way between Dushanbe and Osh would likely cost you less than $50.

MIX & MATCH

If you are flexible with your Pamir Highway travel plans and have time to spare, a mix and match approach involving shared taxis, hitchhiking and sharing the cost of a private car or 4WD is certainly possible. We met a few people doing this; largely travelling by shared taxi or hitchhiking, but opting to pay their way in a private car or 4WD to get from Langar to Alichur or Murghab. The best way to approach this is by asking around fellow travellers who have their own hire vehicle and offering to pay for your ride, or enquiring at homestays and guesthouses for a local driver. Busy places like Behruz Hostel in Langar or Pamir Hotel in Murghab are good options for meeting people.

BOOKING AN ORGANISED TOUR

For a fully inclusive Pamir Highway Tour with a set itinerary and guaranteed departure dates it’s a good idea to book through an international company before you arrive. This option can be a bit pricey, but it’s ideal for those limited on time and keen to travel with a small group of people (without having to find those people yourself!). Companies to check include Oasis Overland , Intrepid ,  and various options through Tourradar . Note that many of these Pamir tours are part of a larger Tajikistan or Central Asia itinerary. Prices vary, but expect to pay a minimum of $2000 per person for a 2 week trip.

Many hostels in Dushanbe and Osh also offer Pamir Highway tours, with a set itinerary, number of days and price for the vehicle. If you’re happy to organise your trip last minute, in person, then this option is much cheaper than booking in advance with an international company. You may or may not be required to find fellow passengers yourself, and chances are the tour cost won’t include your accommodation and food. You’ll likely need to hang around up to a few days while plans come together, even in high season (July – August). Alternatively, Visit Alay has a group tour section on their site, bringing travellers together for set date itineraries and routes. Expect to pay around $350-$400 per person (based on 4 sharing the vehicle) for a 7-9 day trip. Your accommodation and food expenses will be extra – allow approx $150 more for this.

YOUR OWN TRANSPORT

Many people travel the Pamir Highway using their own transport, usually as part of a larger overland journey. While this option is quite specific, and not really applicable to your average Pamir backpacker, it’s worth mentioning as it is a common way to travel ‘The Roof of the World’.

Overlanding in your own 4WD is very popular these days, and we saw many such people travelling the Pamirs. If you’re an overlander travelling through Asia then it doesn’t get more enticing than the Pamir Highway. There is however, one significant drawback – many vehicles operate only on diesel, and that is something that isn’t easy to find in these parts. The quality of the fuel is also often suspect, mostly due to incorrect storage. Friends of ours travelled from Osh to Dushanbe, but had to skip the Wakhan because they wouldn’t be able to source good quality fuel for their Land Rover Defender.

The fuel that local vehicles use often isn’t suitable for an overlander from home

Many motorbikers travel the Pamirs, generally following the usual tourist route through the Wakhan. It surely must be a great pleasure riding through such a landscape. Fuel generally isn’t as much of a problem, but the availability of qualified mechanics means it’s good to be well prepared for any technical difficulties.

 We’d never seen so many long distance touring cyclists until Tajikistan. It seemed to be a funnel that every cyclist coming from Europe flowed through. Green House Hostel in Dushanbe was a hub for them, resting and repairing their bikes before or after the Pamir Highway. As mentioned in the account of our trip, we met many people travelling this way. And while it’s clearly a tough physical challenge, it certainly has an appeal. Cycling is a cheap way to travel, you go at your own pace, and there’s pretty much nowhere you can’t reach.

Bikes outside of the Jarty Gumbez Guesthouse, one of the more remote places to travel to from the Pamir Highway

ACCOMMODATION ON THE PAMIR HIGHWAY

Accommodation options along the Pamir Highway are pretty basic, largely limited to homestays or wild camping. A wider variety of hotels and guesthouses are available in larger cities at either end, like Khorog, Osh and Dushanbe. There are some unique accommodation options too, like yurt camps and a hot springs guesthouse. 

Generally speaking, it’s not possible (and there’s no need) to book accommodation in advance. You can just turn up. The exception to this is for busier cities like Dushanbe, Khorog and Osh, where it’s convenient to have somewhere booked in advance. You can do this easily through Booking.com . In order to find places to stay while you’re travelling the Pamir Highway, check Maps.me, talk to fellow travellers for recommendations, or ask your driver.

Homestays are the norm along the Pamir Highway, and a great way to experience the local culture, food and traditions. The standard setup includes a common area in the family home where guests relax and eat around a low table. Depending on how busy the homestay is, you may be offered a private room to sleep in, or be sharing a room with other guests. You will usually sleep on the floor, on padded blankets which are rolled up and stowed away during the day. The toilet and shower (if there is one) is often outside in a separate building. Squat toilets are most common, but some places have a sit-down toilet.

Dinner and breakfast is normally included at your homestay. Typical food includes bread, butter, jam, eggs, noodle soup, laghman, plov, stew, and copious amounts of tea. At Akim Homestay in Yamchun we were treated to lots of fresh apricots from the garden, and we had some delicious fresh yak yoghurt at our guesthouse in Jarty Gumbez.

Morning light in the garden of Akim Homestay in the Wakhan Valley

Morning light in the garden of Akim Homestay

The average cost of homestays in the Pamir is $15 per person a night, including dinner and breakfast. Prices can vary though, between $12 – $20. You don’t need to book in advance (indeed this is often impossible given the lack of phone reception in many places!), so just look out for signs and turn up.

HOSTELS, GUESTHOUSES & HOTELS

Various other accommodation options are dotted throughout the Pamir Highway. 

As the largest town in the GBAO, Khorog has a bit of everything. For a cheap, central option we can recommend Hostel Do Nazarbayg . More options include LAL Hotel , Zarya Hotel and the fanciest in town, Khorog Serena Inn . The Pamir Lodge is also very popular (especially with independent overlanders), but is a little out of town. 

Murghab is the main town in the Eastern Pamir. We enjoyed our stay at Mansur Tulfabek Guesthouse. Other options include Guesthouse Erali and the Pamir Hotel, which has a cheap dorm-like yurt in the front yard as well as private rooms.

Behruz Hostel in Langar is a fairly new addition to the accommodation options in this lovely Wakhan village. It has private and shared rooms, with proper beds and modern toilet and shower facilities. 

At the start or end of your trip, Green House Hostel in Dushanbe is our recommended accommodation. They have dorms and private rooms. Hello Dushanbe Hostel and Yeti Hostel are also good options.

In Osh we can recommend TES Hotel , a modern and spacious place with a lovely outdoor area for relaxing over a beer. Apple Hostel , Osh Guesthouse , CBT Osh Tourist Info Office & Hostel, Silk Way Boutique Hotel and Biy Ordo Hotel & Hostel are also good options to check out.

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Hunting camps.

There are hunting camps at Jarty Gumbez and Keng Shiber which are available for regular tourists in the summer. Expect to pay around $50 per person including meals at one of these. There is also a cheaper family run hot springs guesthouse at Jarty Gumbez costing $25 per person, including meals and use of the private indoor hot spring baths.

There are a couple of yurt camps at Tulpar Lake near Sary Mogul in Kyrgyzstan. One is run by CBT and can be booked by popping into the CBT office in Sary Mogul itself. The cost is 1000 som per person including meals, or 500 som per person without food. There are a few yurts, with around 4 – 6 beds in each. The yurts have a stove in the middle which keeps it nice and toasty. There’s a separate dining yurt and a basic toilet block.

WILD CAMPING

It’s possible to wild camp on your Pamir Highway road trip, assuming you have camping gear with you. We camped in Jizeu, near Zorkul Lake, and in the Pshart Valley. We had planned on camping at Peak Engels Meadow too, but unfortunately this didn’t work out due to sickness. Most people who camp are travelling independently by bike or hitchhiking, but if you’re planning on hiring a 4WD and driver it’s also possible (we did!). You’ll just need to factor in where your driver can sleep and eat for the night and discuss this with them in advance.

Wild camping in the impressive Pshart Valley

Camping in the Pshart Valley

As always, make sure you follow the Leave No Trace principles when camping, and don’t pitch up on private land or farm land without asking first. You’ll need a warm sleeping bag and clothing, even in summer, as the temperatures at altitude really drop at night.

FOOD & WATER ON THE PAMIR HIGHWAY

As mentioned previously, meals are generally included in the cost of your accommodation while travelling the Pamir Highway. There’s no menu to choose from, you’ll simply be served whatever the family are cooking that day. The food may or may not include meat. Most homestay owners have an understanding of ‘vegetarian’, although in some cases eating vegetarian may mean picking out the meat. If you have specific dietary requirements (for example you are strict vegetarian, vegan or coeliac), you may want to consider self catering. This means stocking up on supplies in Osh, Dushanbe or Khorog (and to a lesser extent Murghab), and carrying these with you along with a small camping stove and cookware. 

You can expect to be served a breakfast of bread, jam, butter, tea and maybe eggs. Lunch and dinner may be brothy soups, stews, plov, or noodles. Bread and tea are served with every meal. In the fertile Wakhan delicious apricots grow, and there’s noticeably more fresh fruit and vegetables compared to the Eastern Pamir. Fresh yak butter and yoghurt is a yummy treat, served more commonly in the Kyrgyz influenced east.

A bowl of Laghman and local bread for lunch

If you’re eating outside of your accommodation, budget around $2 for a local meal, or up to $10 if you’re eating at a more international place in Khorog or Osh.

DRINKING WATER

There’s no need to buy bottled water when travelling the Pamir Highway. This is a huge waste of plastic. Instead, fill up a reusable water bottle at taps, wells and streams along the way and treat it to make it safe to drink. You can use water purification tablets , or any other method such as a pump , squeeze filter or LifeStraw . Personally, we use a Steripen , along with a Nalgene water bottle and filter . It’s important to stay well hydrated at altitude, so having a reserve of water in a water bladder or spare water bottles is a good idea. Most villages have a well, which you can fill up from using the hand pump.

Just a quick warning – there’s every chance you will get sick from food on your Pamir Highway journey. We did, and many people we met did. You’ll be travelling in a remote area, where refrigeration and sterilised water is non-existent, and kitchen hygiene likely isn’t up to the same standards as your stomach is used to. Carry hand sanitiser with you and wash your raw fruit and veggies with sterilised water. Make sure you have a stocked first aid kit, including rehydration salts/electrolytes to help you get back on your feet after a bout of sickness and/or diarrhoea.

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Things to know before your pamir highway trip.

In this section we’ve gathered some useful info and advice to ensure your Pamir Highway road trip runs as smoothly as possible.

The ideal time to travel the Pamir Highway is June – September. Peak travel time is July and August. October brings beautiful Autumn colours, but cold weather. Winter lasts from November till March, with temperatures well below zero, biting wind and snow. April and May is still cold, with a risk of avalanches and landslides in the higher mountain areas.

Golden hour over the Madian Valley near Murghab in late August

ATMs & MONEY

There are NO ATMs between Khorog and Osh and you cannot pay by card for anything. You must make sure you have enough cash to cover your whole journey. You will likely pay USD to your driver or for your tour, and local currency (Somoni in Tajikistan and Som in Kyrgyzstan) for accommodation, food and local transport along the way. Some ATMs in Dushanbe/Osh give out USD, but it’s a good idea to bring this into the country if you can. Don’t leave it until the last minute to gather all your cash – ATMs are unreliable and you may need to visit multiple ones before you find one that works. Your bank and/or the ATM itself will also have a max daily withdrawal limit. 

Personally, we brought $3000 into Tajikistan with us, and carried it around safely in our belts . We have read accounts online about money being stolen while travelling the Pamir Highway. If you are carrying large amounts of money, make sure you keep it on your person as securely as possible. 

Use large notes for bulk payments, and ensure you have small notes to pay for your accommodation, food and local transport along the way as people are unlikely to have change.

INTERNET (or lack of)

Don’t expect any wifi or data connection between Khorog and Murghab. Even in these two towns, the connection is pretty poor (especially Murghab). Between Murghab and Osh you may pick up a data connection with a local SIM in some areas, but don’t rely on this. Same goes for Khorog to Dushanbe. 

This means you need to be prepared in advance, having downloaded any maps you want to use offline, and saved any useful blog posts, articles, websites, etc. that you might want to reference later.

If you want to purchase a local SIM the best networks for coverage in the Tajik pamir region are MegaFon and T Cell. T Cell works okay in and around Dushanbe, MegaFon less so. Our driver was constantly switching SIMs depending on where we were in order to stay connected. In Kyrgyzstan, MegaCom and Beeline are good options. 

We purchased a Tajik SIM at Yeti Hostel in Dushanbe when we first arrived for approx $3 each. From what we could tell, it isn’t possible to just go to a shop and buy one as a tourist. We topped up credit at electronic machines in Dushanbe. 

In Kyrgyzstan we were actually handed free SIM cards at the airport when we first arrived (we were here prior to flying to Dushanbe and starting our Pamir Highway trip). We held onto them and tried to top them up with credit in a small shop in Sary Tash after crossing the border. With a language barrier and no electronic machine it was all very confusing and didn’t work. We eventually managed to add credit in Osh. 

Read up more about SIM cards for Tajikistan here , and Kyrgyzstan here .

KEEPING CHARGED

You may be able to charge your phone, camera batteries, etc. at your accommodation every night, usually from solar power, but it’s not guaranteed. Even in Murghab, power supplies are intermittent and limited to a few hours a day. A cigarette charger USB adapter is a handy thing to have for charging on the go if you have a private 4WD. If you’re planning on camping or heading off on overnight hikes then a solar charger is ideal, and a power bank always useful.

Something to be aware of – the entire Murghab district (essentially Bulunkul and everything to its east) runs on Kyrgyz time, which is 1 hour ahead of Tajik time. If you’re arranging departure times with your driver, fellow passengers, shared taxi drivers and so on, be sure to clarify if it’s Tajik or Kyrgyz time. 

Murghab and the rest of the eastern Pamir run on Kyrgyz time, 1 hour ahead of Tajik time

WHICH DIRECTION TO TRAVEL & HOW LONG ON THE PAMIR HIGHWAY

Ultimately, this decision may already be made for you based on your wider travel plans, time restrictions and so on. But if you’re in a position to choose, there’s a few points worth considering.

WHICH DIRECTION?

In our opinion, the main consideration when deciding whether to start your Pamir Highway journey in Tajikistan or Kyrgyzstan is altitude . The altitude gain travelling eastwards from Dushanbe to Osh is much more gradual than travelling in the opposite direction. If you are already acclimatised (ie. you’ve spent time in the previous week at altitudes of around 4000m) then you are much less likely to suffer from altitude sickness when travelling in either direction. But if you are starting this journey having spent no time at altitude, you’re at a much higher risk of suffering from altitude sickness if you start in Osh.

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness becomes a concern at altitudes of around 2500m and above. It can affect anyone and everyone, regardless of age, sex or physical fitness. Just because you’ve been unaffected at altitude in the past, does not mean you’ll be unaffected every time. On the other hand, if you have a history of suffering from altitude sickness, chances are you’ll be affected again (this is the case for Kim). The higher you go, the higher the risk. 

You should always ascend slowly; the general rule of thumb is that you should not sleep higher than 300-500m than the previous night. It’s OK to ascend more than 500m in a day, but it’s advisable not to sleep any higher than this. For example, you could go on a day hike or drive over a high pass with a 1000m ascent, but you should sleep at an altitude that is only 300-500m higher than the previous night. However, the usual routes and itineraries along the Pamir Highway are such that it’s not always possible to strictly stick to this. Nonetheless, it’s a good idea to be aware of the advice.

With that in mind, all you have to do is look at the altitude gains involved over the first few days in each direction on the Pamir Highway to see that starting in Osh is more risky. 

Osh (963m) → Sary Mogul (3000m) or Tulpar Kul (3500m) → Karakul (3900m) via Ak-Baital Pass (4655m) → Murghab (3618m) 

Dushanbe (706m) → Kalai Khum (1200m) → Khorog (2100m) → Langar (2909m)

Symptoms of altitude sickness (AMS) can include headaches, nausea, loss of appetite, dizziness, fatigue, problems sleeping and shortness of breath. At best it can seriously ruin your trip, and if left untreated it can progress to a life-threatening state of HAPE or HACE. Be sure to read up on altitude sickness before your Pamir Highway trip. Know the symptoms, how to prevent it, and the best way to treat it if it happens to you. Drink plenty of water (3-4 litres a day), have a supply of ibuprofen and paracetamol with you, and if you plan on taking acetazolamide (commonly referred to as diamox) either as a preventative measure or as treatment for AMS, know how to take this properly. 

HOW MANY DAYS?

Technically, you could drive the Pamir Highway between Osh and Dushanbe in 4 days, but why would you want to do that? Unless your sole purpose is to get from A to B, you should take as many days as possible to savour your journey through the Pamirs.

Firstly, your choice of transport will impact on how many days it takes to travel the length of the Pamir Highway. If you have your own vehicle, you have complete flexibility to choose your own schedule. If you are hitchhiking or travelling by shared taxi, then you’re largely at the mercy and timeframe of others. If you’re cycling, it could take a month or more. 

Assuming you’re travelling by vehicle between Dushanbe and Osh via the Wakhan, the absolute minimum you should allow is 7 days. But this schedule would involve a lot of driving and little time to actually get out and explore along the way. A better timeframe would be 9-10 days, allowing shorter drive days and more time to enjoy the destinations along the way. If you want to add in side trips like we did, get out on some day hikes, travel a less common route and/or spend more than one night in places, 14-16 days is more realistic.

A minimum of two weeks travelling the Pamir Highway will allow you plenty of time for hikes and side trips along the way

Of course, you could spend much longer in the region if you like, technically up to the limit of your visas (45 days for Tajikistan and 60 days for Kyrgyzstan for many nationalities). It’s also a good idea to factor in a spare day in case of sickness, breakdowns, travel disruption, etc. Our 15 day itinerary outlined in this post actually took us 16 days, including an unplanned day hanging around Murghab after Kim got sick from food.

WHAT TO PACK FOR THE PAMIR HIGHWAY

Your journey on the Pamir Highway will take you through remote, desolate landscapes, to altitudes of over 4600m, staying in small villages with limited supplies and certainly no internet. It definitely pays to be prepared. 

From clothing to specific gear, we’ve put together packing lists and recommendations to help you prepare for a safe and enjoyable Pamir adventure. Just expand the boxes below for the full checklists. 

Even in summer temperatures can plummet at night in the high altitude Pamirs, and the persistent wind can really send a chill through your bones. You’ll definitely want to pack your thermals, layers and down jacket. General ‘outdoor gear’ is ideal, including a sturdy pair of shoes for hikes. Merino wool t-shirts are great for keeping you cool when it’s hot and warm when it’s cold, plus they won’t stink even after 2-3 days use.  Roads are often bumpy, so a sports bra is a good idea. The sun is extra harsh at altitude, so don’t forget a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen. In general, it’s best to dress conservatively, covering your shoulders and knees just as the locals do.

Clothing Checklist

T-Shirts x 2/3 (ideally merino wool as they are no-stink ) His / Hers

Fleece His / Hers

Down Jacket His / Hers

Shell Jacket His / Hers

Comfortable Trousers/Long Skirt x 2

Thermal Top His / Hers

Thermal Leggings His / Hers

Change of clothes for sleeping (remember you’ll likely be sharing with others at some point)

Socks x 2/3

Underwear x 2/3 & Sports Bra x 2

Scarf/ Buff

Hiking Shoes His / Hers

Sandals/Flip flops His / Hers

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

From toiletries to tech gadgets, here’s a checklist of items you’ll find useful on the Pamir Highway. You may also want to pack your own sleeping bag for extra warmth, or if you don’t fancy sleeping under homestay blankets which rarely get washed.

Miscellaneous Checklist

Eye Mask & Earplugs

Travel Towel

Day Bag (for short hikes)

Water Bottle / Bladder

Scrubba & Suds (portable washing machine)

Solar Panel

USB Car Adapter

Toilet Paper

CAMPING & COOKING

If you want to cook for yourself or plan to camp along the Pamir Highway you’ll need to bring the appropriate equipment with you. Camping gas can be hard to source in Tajikistan, the best place to get it is at Green House Hostel in Dushanbe. In Kyrgyzstan try Osh Guesthouse in Osh, the CBT office, or outdoor shops and trekking agencies in Osh, Bishkek, Karakol, etc. You’ll want a warm 3 or 4 season sleeping bag, even in summer, and a quality tent to withstand the wind and cold. We use the Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2 , but the MSR Hubba Hubba is also a good option.

Camping & Cooking Checklist

Sleeping Bag

Travel Pillow

Sleeping Mat

Small Camping Stove

Gas for stove

Cooking Set

Cutlery / Spork

STAYING SAFE & HEALTHY

A stocked first aid kit is a must as you won’t be able to pick up medicine, or such like, easily along the way. Antibacterial hand gel is also a must as soap and running water isn’t a given. We struggled to find this in Dushanbe, so best to bring it with you from home or elsewhere. As mentioned previously, a water treatment system is a better alternative to buying bottled water. If you are planning on heading off on hikes or into remote areas off the main tourist route, it’s worth seriously considering an emergency satellite GPS communication device. We have an InReach Explorer which is capable of two-way satellite messaging. 

Lastly, don’t forget travel insurance. Look for a policy which covers all the activities you may be doing (for example hiking above 3000m), has 24/7 emergency medical assistance and ideally search & rescue cover if you plan on heading off on hikes. Whether you’ve left your home country already or not, you can still get cover with World Nomads (available for residents of 140 countries) or True Traveller (UK and EEA residents). 

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Health & Safety Checklist

First Aid Kit

Hand Sanitiser

Steripen / Water Purification Tablets or similar

Travel Insurance

Emergency Communication Device (for those venturing off the main route)

PAMIR HIGHWAY BUDGET

Your overall Pamir Highway budget will vary greatly depending on your mode of transport, and whether you’re sharing the cost with other travellers or not. Accommodation and food costs are fairly standard for any kind of traveller, unless of course you’re camping which is free. Below we’ve summarised costs for the most popular ways of travel and outlined our own costs in detail.

ACCOMMODATION

$15-20/day Incl. Breakfast & Dinner

TRANSPORT DUSHANBE ~ OSH

Hitchhiking: $50 (very variable)

Shared Taxi: $80-$100

4WD Set 7 Day Itinerary: $800-$900 (can share cost with up to 4 people)

4WD Pay By KM: $1000-$1400 + $15-$20 per day (you set the route and number of days, can share cost with up to 4 people)

$2-5/day Covers Lunch & Snacks

WHAT IT COST US

We wanted to travel off the standard tourist route offered on set itineraries and spend around 15 days travelling the Pamir Highway. We planned to camp, do overnight hikes and not even drive anywhere some days. Therefore, the best option for us was to hire a 4WD and driver and pay by the kilometre, plus a daily rate for the driver to cover his accommodation and food. 

We agreed a rate of $0.65 per km plus $20 per day for our driver, travelling in a Toyota Landcruiser. Our total distance, as per this itinerary , came in at 2100 km ($1365) and we spent a total of 16 days travelling from Dushanbe to Osh ($320 paid to our drivers). In addition, we spent $326 on accommodation (12 nights paid, 3 nights free camping) and $71 on food, snacks and beer along the way ($20 of this was at Delhi Darbar in Khorog, and approx $25 on beer). Our Zorkul permits cost us $10 each.

OUR PAMIR HIGHWAY ROAD TRIP DUSHANBE TO OSH 16 DAYS

$1685 Total

$326 Total 2 People

FOOD & DRINKS

$71 Total 2 People

FEES & PERMITS

$22 Total 2 People

TOTAL 2 PEOPLE

$2104 | $65.75 pp/day, getting there & away.

The M41, or Pamir Highway as it’s better known, is the second highest road in the world, linking the southwest of Kyrgyzstan and the Gorno-Badakshan Autonomous Region (GBAO) of Tajikistan. The gateways at either end of the journey are Osh in Kyrgyzstan and Khorog or Dushanbe in Tajikistan. Some people fly direct to Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan specifically to travel the Pamir Highway, while others travel overland from neighbouring Central Asian countries as part of a longer trip. Here we’ll cover some practical details like permits, visas and international travel options. 

GETTING TO/FROM TAJIKISTAN

Dushanbe (DYU) is the main airport in Tajikistan. Airline options are limited. Your safest bet is flying with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul, Fly Dubai via Dubai, or Air Astana via Almaty . You can compare options and prices using Skyscanner .

Tajikistan shares a border with Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, China and Afghanistan. Most people entering Tajikistan by land come from either Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan. 

To/from Uzbekistan the usual border crossings are at the Samarkand/Panjakent border (ideal for trekking in the Fann Mountains before or after your Pamir Highway trip) or at the Oybek/Buston border (linking Tashkent and Khujand). 

To/from Kyrgyzstan the most common crossings are between Batken/Isfara (linking Osh and Khujand) or Bordobo/Kyzylart (linking Sary Tash and Murghab) on the Pamir Highway. Some people cross at both, completing a circular trip Dushanbe – Dushanbe or Osh – Osh.

The only border crossing between China and Tajikistan is the Qolma Pass, linking Murghab in the Eastern Pamir with Tashkurgan or Kashgar in Xinjiang Province. 

Between Tajikistan and Afghanistan the main border that foreigners cross is at Ishkashim, linking the Tajik Wakhan Valley and Afghan Wakhan Corridor. People usually use this border to make a trip into Afghanistan before returning to Tajikistan again.

Read more about Tajikistan border crossings here . 

GETTING TO/FROM KHOROG

Khorog is the capital of the GBAO, and a common starting or end point for people travelling the Pamir Highway. Most travel by land between Khorog and Dushanbe either by shared taxi on one long 12-16 hour journey, or by private transport, breaking the drive with a night in Khalai Khum. Shared taxis cost between 250-350 Somoni/$26-$37. Your accommodation in Dushanbe or Khorog can likely arrange a driver to come pick you up. Otherwise, check this post for details on where to take a shared taxi in Dushanbe, and this post for shared taxis from Khorog.

 It seems the Tajik Air flight that once connected Dushanbe and Khorog is no more. According to Caravanistan , a helicopter currently operates on Tuesday and Friday, costing $200 per person. Make email reservations through Pactec and be prepared for delays in departure.

Many people combine a Pamir Highway road trip with trekking in the Fann Mountains , easily accessible via the border with Uzbekistan near Samarkand/Panjakent

GETTING TO/FROM KRYGYZSTAN

The main airport to fly into in Kyrgyzstan is the capital, Bishkek (FRU). It is also possible to fly internationally to Osh with a limited number of airlines, or domestically from Bishkek with Air Manas/Pegasus. Your safest bet is flying with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul or Ulaan Baatar , Fly Dubai via Dubai, Aeroflot via Moscow, or Air Astana via Almaty . 

Given the relatively close proximity of Almaty, it’s worth comparing flight prices to there as well as Bishkek. Almaty airport is serviced by a few more international airlines such as Asiana (via Seoul) and Lufthansa (via Frankfurt). 

Kyrgyzstan shares a border with Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, China and Tajikistan. Most people entering Kyrgyzstan by land come from either Kazakhstan or Tajikistan. 

To travel to/from Kazakhstan the most common border crossing is at Kordai (linking Bishkek and Almaty).

As already described, to get to/from Tajikistan the most common crossings are between Batken/Isfara (linking Osh and Khujand) or Bordobo/Kyzylart (linking Sary Tash and Murghab) on the Pamir Highway. Some people cross at both, completing a circular trip Dushanbe – Dushanbe or Osh – Osh.

The main border crossing to/from China is at Irkeshtam (linking Sary Tash and Kashgar). 

To get to/from Uzbekistan the main border crossing is at Dostyk (linking Osh and Andijon). In summer there is also a train service between Bishkek and Tashkent, via Kazakhstan. 

Read more about Kyrgyzstan border crossings here .

GETTING TO/FROM OSH

Depending on your direction of travel, Osh will either be the start or end city on your Pamir Highway road trip. 

The most comfortable and time efficient way to travel between Osh and Bishkek is by air. It’s pretty cheap at around $40 and takes just 45 minutes. Air Manas/Pegasus make the direct flight daily. Note, they are on the list of airlines banned within the EU. 

 Travel by land is most commonly by shared taxi, taking around 10-12 hours. Prices vary depending on the season, as a flurry of migrant workers increase demand and prices from Osh in Spring and from Bishkek in Autumn. You can expect to pay anywhere between 1200 – 1800 Som / $17 – $25 for a seat. Your accommodation may be able to arrange a driver to pick you up, otherwise head to the new bus station  (40.5623, 72.7698) or corner of Masalieva and Navoi (40.5379, 72.8037). Early morning is best. 

Another option is to travel through the night on a cargo van. This post has more info. 

For onward travel from Osh to other destinations, check out Caravanistan .

VISAS & PERMITS

Passport holders of over 120 countries can obtain an eVisa online to visit Tajikistan. It costs $50 and allows you to travel for 45 days within a 90 day period. You can pay an extra $20 at the time of application to include a permit for the GBAO, which you will require for your Pamir Highway road trip. Check your eligibility here .

Passport holders of 69 countries can travel to Kyrgyzstan visa free for stays of up to 30, 60, or 90 days. Check your eligibility here . 

You’ll need a GBAO permit arranged in advance to travel the Pamir Highway. It’s easy to obtain at the same time as applying for your Tajikistan eVisa online. It costs $20. 

If you want to visit Zorkul , you’ll need a separate permit. This can be obtained at the PECTA office in Khorog, or in Murghab if coming from Kyrgyzstan. Ask at your accommodation to find the place, otherwise it is marked on Maps.me at a location opposite the Lenin statue ( 38.1694, 73.9672 ). We paid $10 per person for our Zorkul permits, arranged via our driver in advance of arriving in Khorog. We have heard that permit numbers are restricted, and some people are refused. You won’t get through the checkpoint at Khargush (near Langar in the Wakhan) without the permit, although there were no checkpoints between Zorkul and Murghab when we drove the route.

A separate permit is required if you want to visit Lake Sarez .  Technically you need a permit to visit the Tajik National Park area (a large area north of Bulunkul, encompassing Yashikul and various other lakes and mountains). This can be obtained easily at the PECTA office in Khorog and costs 15 Somoni/day.

Make sure you organise a permit in advance if you want to visit Zorkul, or any of the other restricted areas

USEFUL RESOURCES FOR THE PAMIR HIGHWAY

Whether it’s an old school paper map or an online forum, here’s a bunch of resources that are useful for planning your Pamir Highway trip.

A great resource is Markus Hauser ‘The Pamirs’ 1:500 000 tourist map of the GBAO . Buy it on Amazon in advance, otherwise PECTA in Khorog usually has them in stock. This map is very useful and outlines hiking routes, obscure roads, and points of interest along the way. It also provides a lot of info on history, culture, geography, archaeology and so on.

Maps.Me ( iOS / Android ) is extremely useful for navigating on the go, even if you’re offline. Just be sure to download the relevant maps for the Pamir Highway in advance when connected to wifi (zoom in on the map until it prompts you). It has many hiking trails, off-road routes, accommodation and food options marked, plus loads of other info added by travellers. We use it all the time, and literally ended up navigating our way through Zorkul to Jarty Gumbez and beyond using Maps.me because our driver hadn’t been that way before. Remember, you can download all of our bookmarks and routes for the Pamir Highway here .

Lonely Planet’s Central Asia has useful info on language, history, culture and so on. We still always travel with one, combining the info from LP with that gathered from more personalised travel blogs. 

More general guide books to check out are Bradt’s Tajikistan Travel Guide and Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide .

If you’re keen to do some hiking in the Pamirs, a great resource is Jan Bakker and Christine Oriol’s book Trekking in Tajikistan: The Northern Ranges, Pamirs and Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor . It covers various hikes in the Pamir, such as Peak Engels Meadow, plus hikes in the Fann Mountains and Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor.

Caravanistan has a wealth of info about all things Central Asia. They also have a popular forum covering all sorts of topics. 

Another popular online forum is the Lonely Planet Thorntree Forum .  

The website design isn’t the most reader friendly, but the Pamirs.org site can be useful.

Trekking in the Pamirs is Jan Bakker’s website and is a good place to start when planning treks in the region. 

The shiny new PECTA website (Khorog based), and Visit Alay (Osh/Alay Valley based) are also useful.

*If you find any online resources (including this post!) that you might want to reference while on your Pamir Highway journey, make sure you save it for reading offline.*

THANKS FOR READING!

If you’ve found this guide helpful, please consider leaving us a small tip. Your support is greatly appreciated and helps cover the costs of running this blog.

Kim and Del Hogg

If you’ve found this guide helpful, please consider leaving us a small tip.

Your support is greatly appreciated and helps cover the costs of running this blog.

We hope you have a wonderful time travelling the Pamir Highway. As always, just drop us a comment below if you have any questions or updates to share.

Happy Travels!

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*Some of the links in this post are affiliate links – if you purchase a product or service via these links, we may earn a small commission  at no extra cost to you . This helps offset the cost of running this blog and keeps us travelling so that we can continue to produce great content for you. We greatly appreciate your support!*

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More from central asia, 9 leave a reply.

Your material is simply amazing. Thank you so much for taking the time to share and help other fellow travelers.

Would you say it’s dangerous to do the Pamir self driving? I want to do it with my husband but I don’t know exactly which problems we can face. I’ve been reading and researching it a lot, but I’m still not quite sure.

Hi Carol, thanks for the kind feedback, we’re glad you’ve found our blog helpful. Your question is a hard one to give a definitive answer to, but some things worth considering are…. do you have experience driving in remote areas on varied road surfaces and terrain? Are you self-sufficient and knowledgeable about your vehicle if you have a breakdown/flat tyre/mechanical issue etc? Do you travel with an emergency communication device which can be relied upon if you don’t have phone signal? Can you communicate with locals in their language/a common language such as Russian? Do you have experience at high …  Read more »

Hi dear I would like to ask if is it possible to download a gpx file Thanks in advance

Hi Francesco, there is a GPX download link in the expandable box under the map titled ‘how to save this map (offline version)’. This includes all of the info from the map. Thanks, Kim

Hi Thanks for your big information, it looks amazing. I want to know did you try horseback riding on Pamir. I love horse riding and want riding in Central Asia. I checked on internet, not so many horse riding tours in Tajikistan. Or in Kyrgyzstan better? I want to book tour with Pegas Adventure company. I think their experienced organization such kind of tours.

I will be happy to get more information Regards Jessica

Hi Jessica, Kyrgyzstan is definitely better for horse riding tours. In general, there are far more horses in Kyrgyzstan, in fact you’ll notice the difference as soon as you cross the border! We haven’t done horse riding tours in either, but I know Song Kul Lake in Kyrgyzstan is a popular place to horse trek to. Hope this helps! Kim

Hi Jessica Horse riding in Kyrgyzstan is better, Song Kol lake or Kol Ukok lake. Even if you don’t have experience of horse riding its ok, the horses are special for beginners. Last year I booked horse riding tour with Pegas Adventure, it was absolutely amazing, I think company can arrange Pamir highway tours as well

What an incredibly informative post! We are so keen to visit, have saved this for when we eventually do – thanks guys 🙂

Nice one! And thank you. The Pamirs are bound to knock your socks off ?

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Pamir Highway: Everything you need to know

By Joan Torres 26 Comments Last updated on April 29, 2024

Wanna travel to Taliban Afghanistan with Against the Compass?

We have one tour scheduled for the Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan.

August 18th to September 2nd, 2024

What was once an important ”Silk Road” route, along which Marco Polo, as well as tens of civilizations and empires, traveled, today, has today become one of the most epic road trips on Earth, as the Pamir Highway or M-41 , as it was called during Soviet times, goes through one of the most impressive, remote and wild mountain ranges in the world.

From Osh to Dushanbe, over a period of over 3 weeks, we decided to hitchhike 1,250km of landscape, geographical and cultural contrasts.

From wandering around the beautiful Alay Valley to the 300km of road bordering Afghanistan where you can see Afghan villages , climbing 4,600-meter-high mountain passes and attending some nomad games where horses and violence are the main protagonists.

The Pamir Road has everything, both good and bad, as this road is also the main channel for heroin coming into Europe from Afghanistan, the largest opium and heroin producer in the world.

When driving the Pamir Highway, adventure is more than guaranteed.

In this Pamir Highway travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

• Things to know
• Complete itinerary
• Hitchhiking
• Transportation
• Accommodation
• More Information

our recommended travel insurance for Tajikistan

With all the adventure plans, IATI Insurance is the best insurance for any kind of adventurous destination, like Tajikistan.

Things you need to know before traveling the Pamir Highway (M-41)

Best time to visit the pamir highway.

The road is open all year long but, from the end of September till the beginning of June, the cold takes over the Pamir plateau.

I was there in August and I remember that, in a town called Alichur, the morning temperature was -6ºC. This village, in particular, had registered the lowest temperature in the country, around -60ºC. Traveling here in winter may be pretty tough.

You had better come from June to September, especially if you want to go hiking.

How many days are needed to complete the Pamir Highway

It depends on what you want to explore.

If you just want to drive along the road and stop in the most typical places, people tend to finish it in 5 or 7 days.

However, if you want to go around the side valleys, you will need more time.

Add a few extra days for each side trip you take. I spent almost 2 weeks there.

Where does the Pamir road begin and finish?

The beginning and end of the Pamir Highway is such a controversial topic. If you look north, it definitely begins in Kyrgyzstan, in a southern city called Osh.

However, some sources claim that it ends in Afghanistan , while others say that it is in Termez (Uzbekistan), Dushanbe (capital of Tajikistan) and Khorog (also Tajikistan).

And what about the tourist route?

For most travelers, the journey begins in Osh (Kyrgyzstan) and ends in Khorog (Tajikistan), a small town that is the gateway to an autonomous region named GBAO.

After Khorog, people also continue to Dushanbe. You are going to spend 85% of your journey in Tajikistan.

Visa and GBAO permit

For Kyrgyzstan, most nationalities get a 2-month free visa on arrival at the airport. If you are not one of the lucky countries, read this article from Caravanistan.

On the other hand, for Tajikistan, most countries need to apply for a visa in advance. Besides, the road goes through GBAO, a region which requires an additional permit.

Here you can find everything related to the visa process: How to get a Tajikistan visa .

Electricity

After Khorog, in the Tajik part, the region has been without electricity for years, so they use solar panels. Some guesthouses (only a few), have solar plugs where you may charge some of your devices.

What I recommend is that, if you have a DSLR, bring it fully charged and a spare battery. I was able to charge my phone only once, thanks to a kind man I met who had a generator in his house.

In Kyrgyzstan, the internet works pretty well, both Wi-Fi and 3G. However, in Tajikistan, you will barely be able to send WhatsApps, so forget about the internet until you reach Khorog.

Pamir villages are so remote that they barely receive food and other supplies, besides all the basic stuff, of course. If you aren’t planning to go trekking and you just want to go village-hopping, there’s no problem, as in all homestays and guesthouses, meals are included.

However, if you want to go to the mountains, I suggest you get supplies at the supermarkets in Osh and Khorog

After the Karakoram Highway (China and Pakistan) and Khardung La (India), the road that goes through the Pamir plateau is considered the highest in the world, going over 4,600 meters at Ak-Baktal pass.

I felt absolutely nothing, basically because I had spent 4 months  trekking in Kyrgyzstan and traveling in Pakistan , but I met people who had just arrived in Central Asia and they got altitude sickness.

Take all the necessary precautions, like drinking lots of liquid and have Diamox with you.

Safety in the Pamir Highway

The Pamir Highway is very safe. People are lovely and crime is unheard of.

Therefore, the only danger you may encounter is anything related to trekking, mountains, and adventure in general. Remember that you will be at a very high altitude and the health care in the area is quite rudimentary.

The people in the Pamir Mountains

One of the most fascinating things about Central Asia is its large mix of people and ethnic diversity as, for centuries, an endless number of civilizations and empires have been wandering and trading along these roads, popularly known as the Silk Road.

Surprisingly, in the eastern part of Tajikistan, most people are not Tajik but Kyrgyz, an ethnic group with strong Mongolian features, whereas Tajiks are closer to Iranians and Afghans.

The Pamir mountains are, physically, closer to Afghanistan and Pakistan .

However, its inhabitants are closer to Mongolia, a country that is thousands of miles away! Fascinating.

Pamir Highway route – The ultimate travel itinerary through the M-41

From Osh to Khorog and getting finally to Dushanbe, the M-41 is home to such a vast quantity of beauty and hidden places that it would one whole lifetime to explore all of them.

The following itinerary is the one I did personally.

It took us around 2 weeks to complete but, to be very honest, we traveled on a slow path and did a couple of side trekking trips.

Pamir Highway map

1. Osh – The second most important city in Kyrgyzstan

Located in the south of Kyrgyzstan, in a very strategic position for anyone who is overlanding to China , Uzbekistan or Tajikistan, it’s not surprising at all that Osh has become a mere transit point for a lot of travelers, which means that its timid beauty is often overlooked by most of them.

However, it’s precisely due to its location that Osh is home to an awesome cultural blend, both ethnic and culinary.

Things to do in Osh

Osh can keep you busy for several days and one of my favorite travel blogs called Uncornered Market has simplified it very well in this interesting article: Travel Guide to Osh .

Read: Backpacking in Kyrgyzstan, the ultimate travel itinerary

2. Sary Tash – More than a border town

Distance: 184km from Osh

Located in the middle of the Alay Valley, with stunning views of the Pamir range, Sary Tash is not a typical,  unattractive border town but totally the contrary, as it is positioned in such a privileged location, that it has become an awesome base to organize treks and other trips.

Moreover, even though the village is rather small, it has a couple of homestays, a few restaurants and a gas station, which makes it a great place to rest on your way to Tajikistan.

Things to do in Sary Tash

Alay Valley-  Located at 3,200 meters, this dreamy valley limits the border with Tajikistan and the Pamir range. One of the most beautiful spots in the country.

Sary Mogol –  15 kilometers from Sary Tash, Sary Mogol is a dusty but quite photogenic village. This is the gate to the Lenin Peak base camp.

Tulpar Lake – A couple of kilometers before Lenin Peak base camp, you find Tulpar Lake, a beautiful lake surrounded by velvet-green rolling hills, from where you have fantastic views of the Lenin Peak.

The lake has a yurt camp and doesn’t require any permit, unlike the Lenin Peak base camp, which actually does require a permit.

Lenin Peak – Standing 7,100 meters above sea level, Lenin Peak is the second highest mountain in the Pamir range. We trekked to the advanced base camp and it was our best trekking experience in Kyrgyzstan .

Theoretically, visiting the base camp requires a special permit but we didn’t have it and, obviously, no one asked for it.

Read: Trekking in Kyrgyzstan, a beginner’s guide

3. Kyrgyzstan – Tajikistan border crossing at Kyzyl Art Pass

Distance: 45km from Sary Tash

At 4,200 meters, Kyzyl Art Pass is the second highest border crossing in the world, after Khunjerab Pass , the border between China and Pakistan.

The landscape is freaking awesome and, regarding bureaucracy, it’s a hassle-free border to cross.

For further information, read: How to cross from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan .

4. Karakul Lake – The first settlement within Tajikistan

Distance: 50km from the border

A small village composed of a couple of mud-brick houses but located on the shore of Karakul lake, the largest lake in Tajikistan.

Honestly, there’s not much to do in this village, besides wandering around the lake or climbing the side hills to observe the beautiful views.

Here you will also find a military base where you can see the remains of old Soviet Union tanks. Apparently, the village is also a good base for trekking.

We didn’t stay here more than 30 minutes, enough time to rest, walk around and take a couple of pictures.

5. Murghab – The main town in the Pamirs

Distance: 133km from Karakul

Before starting your journey along the Pamir Highway, you will see that all travelers talk about a place called Murghab, which is nothing less than the largest settlement in the Pamir mountains and a transportation hub that even has an airport.

However, when you arrive, what you’ll find is just another set of mud-brick houses with no electricity, a bazaar where shops are inside shipping containers and, in general, a lot of misery.

People from Murghab live mainly from the few tourists who pass by and in our experience, they were the most money-oriented people in both Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

However, this small village has a lot of potential, as it’s surrounded by beautiful valleys where authentic nomads live and from where you can organize great treks.

Read:  Trekking the Fann Mountains – The 7 Lakes Trek

Things to do in Murghab

At Chabysh festival – In the middle of August, At Chabysh festival takes place, a sort of competition, internationally known as horse games , where participants play polo with a dead goat and do horse racing and wrestling, also on a horse.

At the festival, you will see a few tourists but 90% of the attendants are locals, so this is quite an authentic event. It lasts for 2 days and we were very lucky to arrive on the second day, which was August 13th, so I recommend you plan your trip accordingly.

However, try to find out about the exact dates beforehand as the day of the month may vary every year to make it fit on the weekend.

Murghab town – From a peculiar mosque to the remains of Soviet Union machinery and a very weird bazaar where the different shops are inside shipping containers, we actually enjoyed wandering around Murghab for a day or two.

Pshart valley – For us, this was one of the best experiences we had throughout our journey along the Pamir Highway, as here we finally met a group of nomads who were at all used to tourists, so unlike most yurt camps you find when you are traveling in Kyrgyzstan , here we slept and ate with them and they didn’t even want our money, even though we decided to pay them generously.

The truth is that visiting the Pshart valley is great because the landscape is also gorgeous. The nomad camp is 5 or 6 hours walking from Murghab.

Trekking to Gumbezkul Pass – If you want to get a glimpse of what’s trekking in the Pamirs like, Gumbezkul pass is a 5,200 meters mountain pass from where you can appreciate a significant piece of the Pamir range.

The pass links both Madiyan and Pshart valleys and climbing it is quite a challenge but anyone reasonably fit, with little experience, can do it.

For more information on trekking, read: tips and packing list for trekking in Central Asia

6. Alichur – One of the coldest places on Earth

Distance: 104km from Murghab

From the road, Alichur seems an exceptionally uninteresting town but actually, just entering any of its side valleys, the landscape becomes really impressive.

This is where the lowest temperature in the country ever was registered (-60ºC) and actually, even when we were there in August, it was freaking freezing, around -6ºC at 6am in the morning, apart from a very strong wind, which tripled the cold feeling. Bring warm clothes!

Things to do in Alichur

The village – Like any other Pamirian village, this settlement is composed of just a couple of shacks, so we just killed our time hanging out around the village and taking photos of the local life and the yaks that were wandering freely around the village.

Marco Polo sheep safari – Do you know what the Marco Polo sheep is? They are some cow-size sheep that live in Central Asia. Yes, they are as big as a cow. Google it. The thing is that, in the mountains around Alichur, there are a few hundred specimens and you can go on a safari to spot them.

However, before you go and get disappointed, you should bear in mind that they are extremely shy, so you only can see them from 1km away maximum, which means that you’ll just be able to see two tiny black dots.

For this reason, the guide will always bring a pretty powerful telescope that will help you appreciate their majesty. We were five people and paid $15 per person for a 5-hour safari, starting at 5am in the morning.

Exploring the side valleys – The valleys around Alichur are among the most interesting I saw in Tajikistan and not because of their beauty but they are so imposing and made of wild geology which I had never seen before. You can appreciate them within walking distance from Alichur.

Yak trekking – Kyrgyzstan may be famous for horse trekking but Tajikistan is popular for climbing mountains on a yak. Because we were on a low budget, we decided not to do it but you can ask for prices at the homestay.

Trekking to the lakes – Personally, I didn’t do this trek but, from Alichur, a lot of travelers do a 2-3-day trek to a set of lakes in which you can find Bulunkul lake.

The way to follow is on the  Maps.me app , so you can’t miss it.

Nevertheless, as I said before, bring a good tent and sleeping bag as the wind and temperatures are freezing.

For more information, check my packing list for trekking in Central Asia .

7. The Wakhan Valley

You should know that the Wakhan Valley is not part of the Pamir Highway. In fact, around 20km before Bulunkul (coming from Kyrgyzstan), you have to turn left and drive for several kilometers before reaching the actual valley. Here, I will give you a small summary but, for the full guide, check my ultimate guide to the Wakhan Valley in Tajikistan .

The Wakhan Valley is the place with the largest cultural heritage in eastern Tajikistan. It used to be the border between north and south Asia and, in the 20th century, the border between the Soviet Union and Afghanistan.

During all your journey through the Wakhan, you will go along a river whose other side is Afghanistan and, on many sections, you are only separated by a couple of meters and you can actually say hello to the Afghans from the other side.

These are the places where we stopped at:

Langar –  The first big settlement you find is Langar but I recommend you continue for a few kilometers to Hisor, a more genuine village and with nicer views to actual Afghanistan.

Vrang –  An old village that has an ancient Buddhist temple. It is worth to stop for a few hours.

Yamchun –  The most stunning fortress in the valley. 

Kaakha Fortress –  The second most famous fortress after Yamchun has also great views to Afghanistan.

Ishkashim –  The main town in the Wakhan Valley. It used to hold the Afghan market in no man’s land but it is temporarily closed. It is also the border to Afghanistan for those interested in doing the Afghan Wakhan corridor.

For more information, don’t forget to check my guide to the Wakhan Valley

8. Khorog – Welcome to civilization

Distance: 211km from Alichur

If you come from eastern Tajikistan, arriving in Khorog is sort of a cultural shock, as here you can finally get electricity, internet, supermarkets where you can buy actual cheese and a few good restaurants. Khorog is a great place to enjoy for a couple of days.

Things to do in Khorog

Saturday Afghan market – Khorog is located right on the border with Afghanistan, so every Saturday, Afghans are allowed to cross to attend a market where they can sell their typical products, as well as buying Tajik stuff, like vodka and fabrics.

The market takes place in a military area, which means that there’s a lot of security and Afghans can’t enter Tajikistan proper. They have so much fun in this market as, unlike in highly restricted Afghanistan, here they can get drunk and even flirt with the local women.

And indeed they do! At the end of the day, you may see a few Afghans completely smashed. Actually, if I was an Afghan, I would also, definitely, come to this market every Saturday.

Khorog City Park – Khorog has a pleasant park where you will find one of the best local restaurants in town (Choi Khona), by the river. There’s also the information center, where you can connect to the internet, order an espresso and, of course, get all the tourist information you need.

Route between Alichur y Khorog

Distance: 211km from Alichur to Khorog

Travelers don’t tend to follow this route as most people will make the turn of the Wakhan Valley. However, the road between Alichur and Khorog is the actual continuation of the M-41.

We did it because, before going to the Wakhan Valley, we went to Khorog to rest for a few days and then went back. We had plenty of time, that’s why.

We completed this route in only one day, in 10 hours.

Since we did it hitchhiking, we stopped in different villages where we ate and met real Tajiks for the first time, since, unlike in the eastern Pamirs, people living here are Tajiks.

Except for the first few kilometers, where you see Lake Bulunkul, among other lakes, the rest of the way is not as impressive as what you’ve been seeing for the last days, so I would recommend going straight to Khorog.

However, I would also recommend spending one night in Bulunkul, located 15km from the M-41, and where you can find a few homestays

Remember to read my Guide to the Wakhan Valley in Tajikistan

9. The way to the capital Dushanbe

Distance: 520km from Khorog

Khorog and Dushanbe are separated by 520km of road, 300km of which go along the Panj river, a 20-meter wide river, whose other side is Afghanistan territory.

That’s the most incredibly interesting thing about this part of the journey.

For miles, you will pass by countless Afghan villages , where you will see men riding their donkeys, working in the field and even women doing the laundry in the river.

You are so close to them that you could actually talk to them. In fact, I was continuously yelling and waving at them and they always waved back at me! It was amazing.

In some sections, you will see that you could even cross the river if you wanted, without any problem. Actually, that’s the main smuggling point from Afghanistan to Tajikistan. Most heroin in Europe has crossed this part of the river.

Read: How to get a visa for Iran

A guide to hitchhiking the Pamir Highway

Along your journey, you may meet several people saying:

” I met some backpackers who had been waiting for a ride for days ”

Seriously, I don’t know where the f*** they were but, if they were traveling the Pamir Highway, it can’t be possible.

We never had to wait for more than 2 hours.

What is actually true is that hitchhiking for FREE may be a bit tricky as, in this part of the world, even the locals pay, so you and your backpack may have to wait for a long time.

You need to bear in mind that here, everybody is a taxi driver and whoever travels from one village to another, with an empty seat is losing money.

Hitchhiking for free is also possible but you will need an extra dose of patience, as your best bet will be trucks or generous locals, which are rare.

In our experience, European tourists never picked us up, even if they had empty seats. Bastards!

Honestly, most of the time, I paid for my rides, as the price from Murghab to Alichur, for example, was just a few dollars, so I preferred paying to wait.

By the way, many locals will tell you ridiculously high amounts which you should, politely, refuse.

Hitchhiking the Pamir Road –  Section by section

From Osh to Sary Tash – Very easy. Cars pass quite often, so you can easily find a ride for free.

From Sary Tash to Karakul – Difficult.Local cars tend to be full, so your best option would be to get on a Chinese truck or, if you are extremely lucky, in a tourist car. You will need to be very patient but it’s definitely possible. Try to stand on the road as early as possible.

From Karakul to Murghab – Difficult. Most cars also will be full but, in the morning, you may find a local going to Murghab. Be patient. Local price should be 30TJS ($3.40).

From Murghab to Alichur –  Very easy. We waited for less than one hour, starting at 10am in the morning. We took a ride for just 40TJS ($4.50) and I am sure that, if we waited longer, we would have got a better deal.

From Alichur to Khorog – Relatively easy. We waited for two hours and we did the whole journey in 10h, approximately, taking 3 different rides. In total, we paid around $7 – $8.

From Khorog to Dushanbe – Very easy and crazy. It took us more than 3 days, 2 of which were spent inside a truck. Yes, 48 hours squeezed in a truck which was carrying 80 tons. The driver didn’t accept any money but, when he said that it would take 30 additional hours to arrive in Dushanbe, we decided to take a local shared taxi in Qalai Qumb, which cost us 120TJS ($13).

Driving the Pamir Highway – Transportation

Traveling the pamir highway on a 4×4 with a private driver.

One of the most popular ways to travel the Pamir Highway is by renting a car with a private driver. If you start from Kyrgyzstan, Osh Guest House is the most famous place to hire this kind of service, as the owner has loads of experience in helping travelers with it.

Tours are standard and, typically, they offer 4-day and 7-day tours, including the Wakhan Valley .

If you are alone, in Osh Guest House , there is also a blackboard where you can write down that you are looking for other people to share a car. 4x4s allow up to 4 passengers. From July to August, it will be easy for you to find other partners but, if you come off-season, you may have to wait a bit longer.

Price is around 950$ for the 7-day tour, which can be split up into 4 people.

In these tours, they charge you per kilometer . However, from the beginning, they tell you that, if you follow their itinerary and don’t do any side trip, the price would be around $850 for the 7-day tour , from Osh to Khorog, including the Wakhan Valley , gas and driver’s meals and accommodation. If you want to explore any side valley, they will charge you for each and every extra kilometer you do.

Pamir highway travel tip: You will see that most people claim that this is the best way to travel but, honestly, I think it’s the worst. Why? Well, basically, you won’t have time to do most of the activities I mentioned previously. On this tour, the daily routine is to wake up and just drive to the next destination, so you won’t have the chance to enjoy and explore the Pamir mountains. If you don’t have a lot of time then this might be a good option but, if you have plenty of time, I suggest you rent a car . In Osh Guest House , you can also rent a Toyota Landcruiser or a Mitsubishi Pajero, which cost $100 – $130 per day. It’s, definitely, cheaper. información práctica. 

Traveling the Pamir Highway by bicycle

The Pamir Highway is the Mecca ( Saudi Arabia ) for cyclists.

I had never seen so many people traveling by bicycle as here but actually, the truth is that its beauty and challenging conditions make it the perfect place for this way of travel.

I don’t travel by bicycle, but the cyclists I met said that water and food were scarce, as distances between villages were huge. Just bring enough supplies and a good sleeping mat, as the ground where one camp is hard as hell.

Traveling the Pamir Highway by public transportation

There’s no actual public transport, except from Osh to Sary Tash, but what you find is local shared taxis.

If you are on a budget, this option is totally feasible but, unfortunately, there are very few routes, which means that they run to very specific places only.

If you want to go to any place which in between or outside the below itineraries, you will have to hitchhike.

From Osh to Sary Tash –  There are daily marshrutkas until 2pm from the station located here:  40.536484, 72.798298.  Price: 350SOM ($4).

From Osh to Murghab –  The shared local taxis to Tajikistan don’t run regularly and timings vary and change every day, as it depends on how many people want to cross the border on that day.

Furthermore, there is no ”taxi station” for Tajikistan, which means that you’ll need a local contact. Luckily, there are several people who can arrange it for you.

First of all, I recommend you contact Ibrahim, a taxi driver from Murghab who does this journey a few times a week. He is the only man who charges the local price to tourists, which is 2,000KGS ($30).

He speaks English, so call him at 0778790365 and ask him when is he planning to cross. Additionally, if you can’t go with him, Osh Guest House can also organize a shared taxi for you.

However, they will charge you 2,500KGS ($37), meaning that they get a 500KGS commission. If you are in Sary-Tash or Sary-Mogol, CBT Sary-Mogol can arrange it but they will also charge 2,500KGS, although they can tell the driver to pick you up in Sary-Tash, instead of Osh, no problem.

From Murghab to Khorog –   Local shared taxis leave every day from Murghab station. Try to be there early in the morning, as they leave when they are full. Honestly, I don’t really remember the price but it was not expensive.

From Khorog to Dushanbe –  Cars going to Dushanbe take between 14 and 18 hours, as it’s a 500km road in a very bad condition. For this reason, a seat is quite pricey ($35).

There are 1 or 2 a day and they are always extremely full, so try to be at the station around 6am.

I am not kidding, we arrived there at 7:15 and there were no seats anymore, so we decided to hitchhike until Dushanbe.

Accommodation: where to stay in the Pamirs

Homestay is the most common type of accommodation, which means that you will stay at local people’s houses, a great way to learn about their culture.

Usually, most houses are pretty cozy, especially in Kyrgyzstan. In Kyrgyzstan, you tend to have a relatively comfortable bed, whereas in Tajikistan, you will get a thin mattress on the floor.

Regarding food, there is no difference between the two countries and you will always get your dose of homemade jam, bread, and shorpo  (a local meat broth).

Prices range from $10 to $15, Tajikistan always being more expensive than Kyrgyzstan. Price always includes dinner, breakfast and, rarely, also lunch.

The following list contains all hostels and homestays I stayed throughout my journey plus recommendations from people I met. All are budget options but, honestly, you can’t really find more expensive ones.

Where to stay in Osh

Backpacker Hostel – Osh Guest House  – Cheaper than Biy Ordo but not as comfortable. This is the most budget option for backpackers.

Mid Range Guest House –   Eco House – For couples or people with a higher budget, this is one of the top-rated guest houses in Osh. Very comfortable, amazing breakfast and at a very good price for what you get.

Where to stay in Sary Tash

Budget Homestay – Hostel Muras  – Cozy, good dinner and breakfast, Hostel Muras is very well-rated among foreigners. The staff speaks English.

Where to stay in Karakul

I didn’t stay there, so I can’t recommend any but I saw plenty of homestays.

Where to stay in Murghab

Pamir Hotel  – The only proper hotel in town with electricity (after 6pm), western toilets and shower. It’s the priciest in town but they also have budget dorms.

Sary Kul Lodge ( I would not stay here ) This guest house is pretty popular and it’s actually more budget than Pamir Hotel. However, it doesn’t have electricity. To be honest, I didn’t have a good experience here as the manager told us a certain price and, the day we checked out, she said that she got it wrong, claiming that she didn’t speak good English. She lied. Moreover, she tried to rip us off with the exchange rate and charge me $10 for the laundry. I am just being honest, you can do stay whatever you want 🙂

In any case, I recommend you stay at one of the many random homestays, not in the popular ones.

Where to stay in Alichur

NGO Purgut Homestay – Don’t get confused by the name. It’s not an NGO but the family running it is super kind and will feed you until you explode. This was one of the very few homestays where lunch was also included. The man of the house can also organize yak treks, as well as the Marco Polo sheep safari.

Where to stay between Alichur and Khorog

We didn’t stay between these two places but I remember that, in many villages where we stopped, locals always asked us if we wanted a place to stay, so you won’t have any problem if you really want to sleep here.

Where to stay in Khorog

Backpacker Hostel – Pamir Lodge  – The most popular backpacker hostel. All right, the hostel is pretty cool as there is a friendly atmosphere and a huge hanging out area. However, the hostel has the capacity for more than 100 people and it only has two toilets and two showers, so when I came in August, it was very difficult to find them empty, apart from being quite dirty of course.

Backpacker Hostel – Hostel Do Nazarbayg – An alternative to Pamir lodge. You will find fewer backpackers but the location is much better and, of course, it doesn’t get busy.

Guest House –   Riverside  – A quieter, more homestay-style place.

Where to stay between Khorog and Dushanbe

I did this journey in 3 days but I slept in a truck. However, both Rushan and Qalai Qumb are relatively big towns where you can find homestays.

Where to stay in Dushanbe

Backpacker Hostel – Green House – Located right next to Yeti Hostel, Green House is very similar to Yeti, with the difference that this one is always busier as it is more famous and older. I recommend Yeti Hostel just because it’s less busy.

Budget Guest House – Hello Dushanbe – If you want a less backpacker-friendly place, Hello Dushanbe may be slightly more expensive but the facilities are great. Mostly, it has double rooms but also one budget dorm. If I ever come back to Dushanbe, I would stay here.

How much does it cost to travel the Pamir Highway?

As you can imagine, the price will depend fundamentally on your way of transportation. These are the typical prices:

Accommodation –  Homestay prices are pretty standard, from $10 to $15, including dinner and breakfast.

Food –  Dinner and breakfast are always included but for lunch, a meal in a local restaurant costs between 10TJS – 30TJS ($1.10 -$3.40).

Transportation –  It’s difficult the calculate an average. However, since most people travel on the 7-day tour with a private guide, which costs $850 for 4 people, which is $212 per person, I would say that cost would be $30 a day, with everything included.

Therefore, the average price will be, taking into account that you travel with a private driver ( If you go by public transport or hitchhiking, the price will be less than half of that. )

a minimum of $50 a day

More information for visiting Pamir Highway

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Don’t forget to check our travel guide to Tajikistan .

As well as all our Tajikistan articles:

• Travel Guide to Wakhan Valley
• Fann Mountains Travel Guide

26 comments

Sounds very nice and amazing road trip, this can give us the experience which worth remembering throughout the whole life. This is the way which was taken as the main route for trading in that era. Thanks for sharing this beautiful information with us.

This is an amazingly detailed post for a part of world that doesn’t get anywhere near enough love from tourists. Bookmarked for future reference.

Wow! You had me at the coldest place in the country at -60 degrees celsius. Based on the pictures the mountains look insanely ski-able. Shocked that there haven’t been any backcountry pro-skiers visiting this region with so much terrain at your finger tips. Are there any local skiers?

Hi Alex, I am not aware of skier tourists, as I went there during summer and, during this season, there’s definitely not enough snow. Moreover, I seriously doubt that there’s any ski resort, as local tourism in the eastern Pamirs is practically non-existent. Perhaps you may find something in the western Pamirs, which are more populated but I didn’t explore that area. If you want to ski in Central Asia, you can go to Karakol, in the north of Kyrgyzstan. There’s a pretty good resort filled with wealthy Russian and Kazakh tourists. The Tien Shan mountains are freaking awesome as well. Cheers,

Great guide which brought back amazing memories for me – did this in 2006 and it was my best travel experience ever!

Amazing, I am sure it must have been so different, at least, with no tourists at all!

When i set my first foot on here, i was totally shocking because of the impressiveness and majesty of the nature and the width of the highway. My hometown is in Vietnam where all the roads are small and winding. The trip to Pamir had changed my mind. It helped me to realize how amazing the world is and how much i need to travel and learn.

Interesting highway……

I’m researching about it… need more information..looking.

Thanks for the info for now… 🙂

Very strange trip. Seems it let you forget about all urban rhythm.

Can I pay for homestays in USD or they prefer somoni?

you can pay in USD

The best information I could find. Very impressive. Thank you!

Hello Joan Very good comments and valuable hints … which might differ depending on the actual situation. I was traveling the Pamir Hwy in my own vehicle … so I find your comment extremely presumptuous … and insulting. It is everyone’s own decision how he/she wants to travel … and everyone should accept and be aware of the advantages and disadvantages of this. How can a hitchhiker take it for granted to be picked-up? … and if he/she does not get the expected lift, insult others?! Your comment does not serve your purpose, believe me!

Hello. Not clear for me when you were there? You name covid buy some comments are from 2017? It’s the current situation safe? – no because of covid but rather terrorism / safety in general ?

Thanks! Blanca June 2021

Hi Blanca, the Pamir Highway is perfectly safe and the only thing you should be careful about is altitude sickness

Thanks Joan!

Do you have any information on the conflict in the frontier Tadjikistan- Kirghizistan?

it was a one-off event due to some water dispute which by any means, will put tourists in danger: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2021_Kyrgyzstan%E2%80%93Tajikistan_conflict

Hey Joan, thank you for this, it is very helpful! I saw it is updated Nov 2022. I can’t find any information if the border from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan is open? It was close earlier this year.

It’s been closed and reopen and closed again during the last few months, difficult to say to have 100% accurate info!

Hi, I am planning a trip to Central Asia. Of course, Pamir is on my itinerary. You made no comments about traveling by motorcycle. Any thoughts on that? Thanks Armando

Hello Armando, motorcycle is a great way to travel the Pamir

Hi Joan, I am from Pakistan, I have red your blog about Pamir highway. I want to cross Pamir highway from Tajikistan side to sary-tash on motorcycle. I am single person, is it safe to cross highway alone.

Hi, im planning to do the route hitchhiking from tayikistan to kirguistan at the beggining of june, do you think is possible, or there is not going to be many cars around

Hi, there are never many cars around but if you’re patient and have time, you should be fine!

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