travel cage for leopard gecko

How to Travel with a Leopard Gecko (8 Easy Steps)

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Traveling with a Leopard Gecko may seem daunting. Nonetheless, with the correct planning and know-how, your gecko can travel safely, and your journey can remain stress-free. Find all suggestions, tips, and advice here. 

Traveling to a vet, on an extended holiday, or moving house may result in your leopard gecko being transported by car, train, or plane. Proper fore planning and carrier familiarisation are crucial, along with after-travel attention and maintenance. 

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Traveling with a Leopard Gecko

Before arranging your travels, it is essential to consider the type of care you require and what mode of transport is needed. 

Consider the degree of care needed

Your Leopard Gecko is always happiest when left in its enclosure at home. When it comes to the health and wellbeing of your gecko, the less disruption to their environment, the better. 

Your Leopard gecko can survive a day or two with no intervention. A weekend away should not cause them any harm, but if you have someone that can pop in, in the case of a power surge, that would be best.  

If it is possible to leave your Leopard Gecko at home when traveling, then do so. A fully prepped family friend or fellow Leopard Gecko enthusiast would be first prize, but there are local vets or pet sitters that can also assist. 

Although more expensive, local vets and pet sitters charge daily to care for your geckos. A trained sitter with detailed instructions is essential if you have multiple geckos with special needs. 

However, leopard geckos do not get lonely so don’t worry about their emotional health. The only reason to get a pet sitter would be to make sure they are fed and watered regularly.

Airplanes, trains, and Leopard Gecko travel

Few airplanes and trains permit reptiles, and those that do are expensive. Airplanes will insist on having your Leopard gecko checked in as cargo. 

I would only recommend traveling in a plane if you are relocating, as flying can be stressful for you and your geckos. 

Proper carrier labeling is imperative, and if you can maintain a carrier temperature of approximately 27 degrees Celsius (80 degrees Fahrenheit) for the trip, this would be optimal. 

Try to book a nonstop early morning or late night flight to avoid the heat of the day and start getting your Leopard Gecko accustomed to its carrier at least a month before you intend to travel. 

Steps for traveling by car with your Leopard Gecko

Car trips can be short or long-distance overnight journeys. Both need a degree of preparation to ensure that you and your Leopard Gecko have a peaceful, stress-free trip. 

Seeing that car journeys are far more commonly taken with Leopard Geckos than plane or train rides, we will outline some essential steps and precautions when planning a trip. 

Step 1: Consider how to transport Leo

It may be tempting to transport your Leopard Gecko in their existing enclosure. However, there are a couple of factors to be aware of. 

Existing enclosure travel concerns

If your gecko’s current enclosure is glass, I would, for obvious safety reasons, avoid transporting them in it.  

You would also need to remove all enclosure décor or objects that may tip over and injure Leo during a trip. A larger enclosure also increases the risk of Leo sliding and injuring themselves with any sudden car movements. 

A smaller carrier is best

When transporting Leopard Geckos in a car, it is usually advisable to place them in a smaller well-ventilated plastic container or Tupperware. Any plastic container can be used as long as it has air holes, or you can poke air holes in it. 

Take care to select a large container to allow Leo to move around but not too large that they are flung about with movement. I would strongly advise against any open-topped containers. You can purchase reptile travel carriers online and in pet stores if you want something sturdier. 

Step 2: Set up the travel carrier

Add carrier floor covering.

It is advisable to add a covering to the bottom of your travel carrier. This will provide extra protection and security during travel, and if the weather is cooler, some added warmth. 

Depending on your required insulation, you can use newspaper, pads, paper towels, or blankets. This will ensure that your Leopard Gecko does not slide with any car movement and will add some added grip. 

Add extra warmth

Leopard geckos can go up to 90 days without heat so additional warmth for a short trip to the vet will most likely not be needed unless you are dealing with extreme weather. 

A more extended trip may call for some added heat to keep your Leopard Gecko comfortable. Heat packs or hand warmers are great for keeping your gecko warm for several hours. You can purchase reptile-specific hand warmers made explicitly for travel online and in some exotic pet stores. 

On shorter trips, many gecko owners have successfully used a hot water bottle for added heat.

Covering or wrapping your carrier with jerseys and blankets will also help with heat loss.

On the flip side, if you are concerned about too much heat, you can wrap the carrier with insulated bubble wrap to block out the sun and prevent heat absorption. Bubble wrap can be cut to size but also remember to add some air holes. 

Step 3: Travel carrier familiarity

Purchase your travel container or carrier at least one week before leaving for your trip. You need to provide enough time for your Leopard Gecko to familiarize themselves with the carrier before leaving. 

Incorporate a couple of minutes of travel carrier time into your Leopard Geckos’ regular schedule. Do this daily and keep adding a few extra minutes until they are happy spending up to 30 minutes daily in the new carrier. 

One week of getting accustomed to the travel carrier is sufficient, but if you have the time to start earlier, it will only help. Getting your Leopard Gecko used to the carrier will help to reduce their stress levels during travel.

Step 4: Pack your travel essentials

A short drive to your local vet will not need the same planning as an extended trip away. 

Here is an extensive checklist of essentials for your next car trip.  

• Plastic container / Tupperware / carrier 
• Insulated bubble wrap or blankets and jerseys
• Food, water, and calcium
• Small plastic containers
• Vehicle harness
• Emergency contact list: vet numbers

Optional – long-distance trips

• Newspaper, paper towels, or pads 
• Hand warmers, heat packs, hot water bottle 
• Gloves, cleaning supplies, hand sanitizer
• Spray bottle with water 
• Thermometer

Overnight travel

• Basking light 

Step 5: Secure and prep the carrier

Before leaving, you must prep and secure the carrier or container for the journey ahead. 

This would involve securing your carrier to the car with a harness, insulating the carrier with blankets or bubble wrap, and ensuring you have all the essentials on hand. 

If you decide to add hides to the carrier, ensure they are secured down with duct tape or something similar. 

Many Leopard Gecko owners prefer to secure their carriers in the front passenger seat so they can better keep an eye on their geckos during the trip. 

If this is not possible, the backseat or a secure spot on the floor can also work. Ensure that wherever you position the carrier, there is no risk of them toppling over or items dropping on them.  

Try to position the carrier where direct sunlight will not cause a problem or use bubble wrap as protection. Close off or position your carrier away from aircon or heating vents to protect them from getting too hot or cold. 

Step 7: In journey checks and safety 

It is important to remember not to remove your Leopard Gecko from its carrier for the duration of the journey unless necessary. This will add unnecessary stress to an already agitated gecko. 

You will need to check up more frequently on your Leopard Gecko on longer journeys. Look out for abnormal behavior and try to stick to their usual schedule as much as possible . 

Check that your Leopard Gecko is eating and drinking enough, and on extended trips, stick to housekeeping schedules by clearing out any feces or left-over food. 

You do not need to be too concerned if your Leopard Gecko does not want to eat or drink unless this continues for an extended period. Leopard Geckos can go without food for up to 10 days. Although this is unhealthy, a day of not feeding will not kill them.

It is normal for geckos to temporarily refrain from eating when stressed. If you are concerned about them not eating or they are behaving oddly, it may be time to pull your emergency list out and give your vet a call for some advice. 

Step 8: Post-travel care

Travel can be stressful for Leopard Geckos.  Being placed in a new environment with new smells, sights, and sounds can be unnerving. 

Once you arrive at your destination, give your Leopard Gecko time to settle into its new environment. Your gecko may be scared. If it shies away from your presence, refrain from handling them until they are comfortable in their surroundings. 

A Leopard Gecko can exhibit signs of stress for seven days up to a month. Typically, they will return to normal within a week or two, but more time may be needed in severe cases. 

How to tell your Leopard Gecko is stressed

A stressed or anxious Leopard Gecko may not eat or drink and may even regurgitate its food. They may become lethargic , change color, or hide in the corners of their enclosure. Their defecations may also increase, decrease, or alter in appearance. 

You may notice bruises, inflammation, swelling, or sores if they have been injured during travel. In more severe cases, they may struggle to walk, look disorientated, or battle to breathe. Excessive saliva or bubbling from their nostrils may indicate a breathing issue. 

If any of this behavior persists or is of concern, it is always best to visit a local vet or arrange a telephonic conversation if still journeying.  

Final thoughts

Your Leopard Gecko may feel part of the family but leaving them home when taking a trip is usually a safer choice. A gecko enthusiast or prepped family member or sitter can help ease any anxiety when traveling for an extended period. 

If you must journey with your gecko, careful planning before leaving is vital to ensure a safe and stress-free trip. Knowing how to handle your Leopard Gecko after a journey is as crucial as putting their carrier and essentials in order before leaving. 

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How to Travel With a Leopard Gecko: 7 Useful Tips & Tricks

Your spotted friend can generally survive well on its own if you’re only going to be gone for a few days. If your trip is longer than a weekend vacation, you might consider asking a friend or pet sitter to come by and check on your reptile child, giving it water and cleaning out the waste out of its tank.

Although leopard geckos can survive for up to two weeks without food, we don’t recommend going more than three days without feeding your gecko, and your lizard will need water every 24 hours.

But sometimes human friends and sitters just can’t be found, or maybe you’re relocating somewhere far away. During times like these, you may need to bring your gecko with you. While your lizard would prefer to stay at home, they’ll likely tolerate a short trip (less than three travel days) if you take these precautions to ensure they have a safe and stress-free drive.

The 7 Travel Tips for Your Leopard Gecko

Similar to their cat enemies, leopard geckos don’t like changes in their environment. Car rides, moves, and new carriers stress them out, so optimally you don’t travel with your gecko unless there’s no other option. However, for the times you must take them with you on the road, we recommend finding them a smaller temporary carrier instead of transporting them in their tank.

It’s actually quite dangerous to take your lizard on a car ride in their tank because they’re not secured. A sudden turn can send them reeling to the other side or knock over their scenery such as rocks and plants, potentially crushing them. To avoid this, you’ll need to put them in a special travel container that’s much smaller than their normal tank. Deli containers, plastic food storage boxes, or even cardboard cat carriers like the ones from the animal shelter will work. Just remember to punch some air holes so your friend doesn’t suffocate. Here are some additional tips for traveling with a leopard gecko.

• 1. Acclimate Them Before You Go

In the days leading up to your adventure, let your lizard spend a few minutes daily exploring their carrier. This will help them grow comfortable in their new environment, which will eliminate one stressful factor of their travel day. You might even want to take them on a short car ride so they know what to expect, instead of letting them experience their first motorized trip on a ride stretching several hours long.

• 2. Stick to the Road

The fewer stops the better. Ideally, you should reach your location in 24 hours or less. Otherwise, you have to give them water, which you don’t want to do because leopard geckos can actually get car sick. It’s recommended that you withhold their food from them for a couple of days before traveling to help them feel better during the ride. However, if your trip lasts for longer than a day, you must at least spritz them with water, and they’ll need food after three days.

• 3. Consider Their Ears

Although they can’t hear as well as humans, geckos won’t appreciate loud music bumping on the radio. They’re probably stressed out as it is, so other unfamiliar stimuli won’t help their situation.

• 4. Limit Their Exposure to Stressful Stimuli

If traveling for more than 24 hours, some gecko parents return their lizard to its enclosure for the night when they stop at the hotel. However, this isn’t necessarily a great idea because it may stress them out further when you pack up and leave again in the morning. Some geckos dislike traveling in clear containers where they can see their environments, so you can always fix this problem by covering their temporary shuttle with a loose-fitting towel or an insulating container such as a cooler.

• 5. Notice the Temperature

Geckos thrive when the temperature is above 65ºF and under 85ºF. They also prefer warm, humid climates, but don’t need to be in the direct sunlight for long periods of time. Keeping this in mind, you may have to take extra precautions when transporting your gecko during cold or extremely hot weather.

Never place them directly under the AC, as that’ll be too cold, and keep them in a hard-sided cooler or insulated bag if it’s over 90ºF outside. You can use an ice pack or a warmer on low to regulate their ambient temperature but keep it off to the side of their carrier instead of placing it directly under or above them because the harsh temperature changes can kill them. Ideally, you’ll avoid extreme temperatures with your gecko entirely. The environment should mimic their home.

• 6. Secure Their Carrier

Both their temporary holding unit and their cage should be strapped to the seat or otherwise contained. The passenger floor is a great place for them to travel so that you can check on them often, and they won’t get knocked off the chair if you have to slam on the brakes.

• 7. Introduce Them to Their New Environment Slowly

Whenever you arrive at your travel destination, you might not want to let them out right away. Instead, slowly let them see where they are before letting them climb out and explore. If your gecko is feeling a little timid, be patient. It might take some time for them to get acclimated to their new place, but they’re more likely to feel at ease if they’re not forced or rushed.

• Conclusion 

It’s possible to travel with your leopard gecko, although not ideal. If your reptilian buddy is riding with you, make sure they’re outfitted with the appropriate travel accommodations such as a smaller carrier that’s secured in a cooler or on the floor, so it doesn’t tip over. To put your lizard at ease, limit stressors such as external stimuli and extreme temperatures, especially anything colder than 65ºF. Driving safely will help them not feel like they’re on a wild ride, but you should also arrive at your destination without unnecessary stops so that you can hold off on their food and water until you’re situated. These steps will help prevent car sickness and accidents and let your lizard enjoy the ride. 

• Do Leopard Geckos Like to Be Held? Reptile Facts & FAQs
• Fascinating & Fun Leopard Gecko Facts
• Reptile Hero

Featured Image Credit: Svetlanistaya, Shutterstock

Brooke Bundy

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Can You Travel With A Leopard Gecko?

If you’re a leopard gecko owner, you might be wondering if it’s possible to travel with your pet. The good news is that yes, you can definitely take your leopard gecko on trips with you! Here are a few things to keep in mind when planning to travel with your pet gecko.

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Yes, you can travel with a leopard gecko! They make great travel companions.

A leopard gecko is a wonderful choice when it comes to travel companions – they’re small, calm and don’t need a lot of complex care . Plus, geckos are social animals so if you have more than one of them, they’ll quickly become best buds!

As long as you provide your gecko with the proper housing appliances like sub-floor heating and spot lamps for basking, their environment will stay in balance.

They might even accompany you outside during temperate days! So the next time you plan your trip, don’t forget that geckos can come along too.

Here are some tips on how to make sure your leopard gecko enjoys the trip:

Taking a gecko on a trip is no easy task and can involve a lot of planning to ensure the gecko’s comfort and safety . To make sure your gecko enjoys the journey, it’s important to take the proper precautions.

Start by making sure they have plenty of food and water ahead of time, as there may be limited availability along the way. It’s also important that you keep any transportation items like cages and tanks clean, secure, and aired at all times.

Allow them some time for rest stops throughout the journey if possible, as geckos need plenty of entertainment and stimulation to stay content during long distances.

Finally, try not to make any sudden movements or changes in temperature to help keep your gecko calmer during their travels. With these simple tips, your gecko will be ready for whatever adventures await them!

– Choose a comfortable carrier that will fit everything your leopard gecko needs, including food, water, and hiding places

When you’re looking for a carrier to transport your gecko, make sure that it is comfortable and large enough to fit all of the necessary items. A gecko needs food, water, and hiding places in order to stay happy and healthy.

An aquarium with a lid or a plastic container with plenty of ventilation holes can work perfectly for young geckos; for adults, invest in an appropriate-sized terrarium. Be sure to select an enclosure that is strong and easy to clean. It should also be lightweight enough so it won’t cause strain when carrying it.

Additionally, you need added temperature controls including heating rocks and/or a thermometer placed inside the gecko’s environment so you can regulate their comfort levels.

When all these factors are taken into consideration, you will have truly created an ideal shelter for your gecko!

– Make sure the carrier is well-ventilated and has plenty of air holes

If you’re considering a gecko as a pet, it’s essential to make sure their carrier is well-ventilated and has plenty of air holes. Geckos need environments with fresh air, since the oxygen in overcrowded, stagnant places can easily run out and this can be dangerous for your gecko.

All containers should also have appropriate lid fastenings that can keep geckos safe but won’t restrict their access to proper circulation. Furthermore, geckos prefer temperatures between seventy-five to eighty-two degrees Fahrenheit, so ensure the area where your gecko’s container is placed is warm enough for them.

With adequate airflow and proper care, not only will your gecko stay healthy but they’ll be happy as well!

– Line the bottom of the carrier with paper towels or newspaper in case of accidents

When transporting geckos, it is essential to properly line the bottom of their carrier with paper towels or newspaper. Not only does this help keep the gecko comfortable, but it also serves as a buffer should they have an accident during transport.

Doing so helps to ensure that gecko remains contained and clean while traveling and minimizes the risk of staining or messes. It’s also a good idea to carry extra paper towels in case you need to do any additional cleaning or wiping up en route.

By taking these simple steps, you can help ensure that your gecko enjoys a comfortable and worry-free ride.

– Put a warm blanket over the top of the carrier to help keep your leopard gecko warm during colder weather

Leopard geckos are comfort creatures that can really suffer in the cold. To keep them happy and healthy, it is important to provide a warm environment for your gecko especially during colder weather.

One way to do this is to put a warm blanket or heating pad over the top of the gecko’s carrier so that they are able to have a steady and consistent temperature throughout the day.

This will help your gecko feel comfortable and safe, allowing them to explore their habitat without unnecessary stress.

Traveling with your beloved pet, a leopard gecko, is possible and can be an amazing opportunity for bonding. When it comes to being prepared for the trip, research ahead of time to make sure all of their needs are taken care of.

Find a comfortable carrier that can fit everything they need and line the bottom with towels or paper if needed. Ensuring their safety during travel is key, so make sure to place a warm blanket over the top of the carrier when its cold.

By taking these steps you are ensuring that the journey will be enjoyable for both you and your pet! Keep in mind that traveling with them can have its challenges but it will be worth it in the end when you look back on those once in a lifetime memories made together!

Related posts:

Hi – I’m Erika, the lead gecko enthusiast here at Geckopedia! I write articles about pet geckos, including what to feed your leopard gecko and how to help your pet gecko live a long, happy life! I graduated with advanced degrees from  UC-Berkeley , the University of Southern California (USC) and Indiana University-Bloomington , where I studied Biology and Animal Science. I use my experience to help others learn about gecko care, and I am an advocate for all topics gecko related!

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Leopard Gecko Accessories: The Essential List Every Owner Needs

Did you know that the leopard gecko, with its unmistakable spotty patterns and adorable, expressive eyes, originated from the dry and rocky grasslands of Asia? And, while they might seem like the rockstars of the reptile world (trust me, they totally believe they are), these little creatures have some specific needs that can’t be ignored.

Think of it this way: you wouldn’t want to live in a place without your favorite comfy couch, right? Similarly, our gecko pals crave a space that feels both familiar and stimulating.

Now, you might be asking, “Why all the fuss about accessories?” Well, each item you introduce to your gecko’s habitat serves a unique purpose. From ensuring they get their daily dose of sun (or, more accurately, the right kind of light) to creating cozy nooks they can retreat to, accessories are about more than just making their enclosures look pretty.

They’re about mimicking their natural habitats, sparking their inquisitive nature, and most importantly, keeping them healthy and gleeful.

So, buckle up! We’re diving deep into the fantastic world of leopard gecko accessories. Whether you’re new to this or a gecko guru, there’s always something new to learn. Let’s ensure our spotty friends get the five-star treatment they deserve!

Ah, the enclosure. Think of it as your leopard gecko’s very own castle – where they eat, sleep, play, and go about their royal gecko business. Just as we need our living spaces tailored to our comfort and safety, leopard geckos need theirs to be just right.

Safety First: First things first, safety is paramount. The enclosure needs to be secure, preventing any escape artist antics or unwelcome visitors from the outside.

Size Matters: Ever heard of the saying, “bigger is better”? Well, when it comes to gecko homes, this couldn’t be truer. Juveniles can start in a 10-gallon tank, but adults will require at least a 20-gallon space. This ensures they have enough room to move, hunt, and, let’s be honest, show off a little.

Material World: The material of the enclosure can have a significant impact on its inhabitant. While glass terrariums are popular (and excellent for viewing!), plastic ones can retain warmth better. But wait, before you jump on the plastic bandwagon, remember that glass is often better for heat lamps, ensuring a nice and toasty basking spot.

Ventilation Station: Let’s talk airflow. Geckos, like us, need fresh air. Ensure the enclosure has ample ventilation, but not so much that it becomes the Sahara desert in there. A good mesh top can keep the airflow balanced, while still allowing that crucial warmth from heat lamps to penetrate.

Ah, the classic terrarium, a favorite among reptile enthusiasts and for good reason!

Terrariums are specifically designed for housing reptiles. They offer a controlled environment where temperature and humidity can be easily monitored and maintained.

Glass Terrariums

Pros: Great for viewing, holds heat well, durable.

Cons: Heavy, can break, and may require additional heating sources.

Plastic Terrariums

Pros: Lightweight, good insulation, and often more affordable.

Cons: Not as clear for viewing, can warp under intense heat.

Mesh Terrariums

Pros: Excellent ventilation, light-weight.

Cons: Doesn’t retain heat or humidity well, not as secure.

Appropriate Sizes and Setups for Leopard Gecko Terrariums

For a single adult leopard gecko, a 20-gallon terrarium is ideal. If you’re housing more than one, increase the size accordingly. Ensure they have plenty of hiding places, a water dish, and space to roam and explore.

The vivarium: it’s more than just a home; it’s a mini-ecosystem!

While terrariums focus on providing a basic environment, vivariums take it up a notch by creating a living ecosystem, often with real plants, substrates, and sometimes even tiny critters that coexist with your gecko.

Naturalistic Vivariums

Pros: Mimics the gecko’s natural environment, aesthetically pleasing, promotes natural behavior.

Cons: Requires more maintenance, potential for mold or pests, more expensive to set up.

Simple Vivariums

Pros: Easier to maintain, less expensive, simpler setup.

Cons: Doesn’t offer the enrichment of a naturalistic setting.

Considerations When Setting Up a Vivarium for a Leopard Gecko

Ensure a balance between wet and dry areas, consider the plants you’re using (some may not be gecko-friendly), and monitor regularly to prevent overgrowth or potential infestations.

While primarily designed for fish, aquariums can be adapted for leopard geckos with some modifications. Ensure there’s adequate ventilation and access points.

Pros and Cons of Using an Aquarium for a Leopard Gecko

Pros: Widely available, clear viewing, comes in various sizes.

Cons: Needs modifications for ventilation, might not retain heat well, usually heavier.

We often picture birds when we think of cages, but can they work for our ground-dwelling friends?

Cages, especially those with a wire or screen design, are more open, offering great ventilation.

• Too much ventilation can cause heat and humidity to escape quickly.
• Geckos might get injured with wire designs.
• Lack of security from other pets or pests.

Mitigations:

• Use a combination of wire and solid walls.
• Place the cage in a location away from drafts or cold spots.
• Ensure the wire gaps aren’t too wide to prevent escape or injury.

Substrate, in simple terms, is the base material you lay down on the bottom of your gecko’s home. Think of it like the carpet or tile in your house. But unlike our homes, the choice of substrate isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s pivotal to the well-being of your leopard gecko.

Imagine walking on a scorching beach with no shoes on or trying to sleep on a bed of jagged rocks. Comfort matters, right? For leopard geckos, the substrate can affect their daily activities, from roaming around to their resting spots.

One of the scarier words in the reptile world is “impaction.” It sounds technical, but here’s the gist: impaction occurs when your gecko accidentally swallows indigestible materials, leading to a blockage in their digestive tract. This can be fatal if not addressed.

Now, you might be thinking, “My gecko isn’t planning on eating its bedding!” And you’re right; they don’t munch on substrate for fun. However, while hunting or exploring, they might accidentally ingest small particles. Some substrates break down easily, while others… not so much.

Substrates like sand or small gravel can be particularly risky for leopard geckos, even though they might seem like a natural choice. When ingested, these can lead to impaction. Younger geckos, curious and still getting the hang of hunting, are especially at risk.

Making the Right Choice

To keep your gecko safe and comfortable:

Paper towels or newspapers: Cheap, easy to replace, and no risk of impaction. Not the most natural-looking, but hey, safety first!

Reptile carpets: These are designed with reptiles in mind. They offer a firmer surface and are relatively easy to clean.

Stone or tile: Mimics the natural rocky environments they might encounter in the wild. Ensure they’re smooth and have no sharp edges.

Avoid using:

Sand: As mentioned earlier, it poses a high risk of impaction.

Cedar or pine shavings: These can give off fumes that are harmful to reptiles.

Paper Towels

Safety: There’s virtually no risk of impaction when using paper towels. It’s straightforward—no small particles mean nothing to accidentally ingest!

Hygiene: It’s easy to spot and clean up any messes, ensuring your gecko’s habitat remains sanitary.

Cost-Effective: Paper towels are cheap and widely available, making them an economical choice.

Setting Up a Paper Towel Substrate

Layering: Depending on the thickness of your paper towel, you might want to double or even triple layer them to provide adequate cushioning.

Replacing: Any soiled sections should be replaced immediately to avoid bacterial build-up. As a rule of thumb, changing the entire substrate once a week is a good practice.

Reptile Carpets

Safe: Specifically designed for reptiles, these carpets prevent risks associated with impaction.

Durable: Unlike paper towels, reptile carpets are made to last longer and withstand the wear and tear of an active gecko.

Aesthetic: They provide a more refined look compared to the starkness of paper towels.

Maintaining Reptile Carpets

Cleaning: Spot clean daily for small messes. A thorough wash should be done at least once every two weeks.

Drying: Ensure the carpet is completely dry before placing it back to prevent mold growth.

Stone Tiles

Natural Ambiance: Stone tiles closely mimic the rocky terrains of a gecko’s natural habitat, giving your pet a sense of familiarity.

Heat Retention: Tiles tend to retain heat, providing a warm surface for your gecko to lounge on.

Sanitation: Tiles are easy to wipe down, ensuring cleanliness.

Arranging Your Stone Tiles

Smoothness is Key: Always opt for smooth tiles. Rough or sharp edges can harm your gecko.

Fit: Measure your enclosure and choose tiles that fit snugly, preventing gaps where your gecko might get stuck.

Natural Look: There’s no denying that sand gives a very natural desert vibe.

The Controversy: Despite its natural appearance, sand poses a significant impaction risk, especially to younger geckos.

Types of Sand

Calcium Sand: Often marketed as safe for reptiles, but when ingested, it can cause severe health issues.

Play Sand: A cheaper alternative, but still poses the same risks of impaction.

Coconut Fiber

Moisture Retention: Coconut fiber is excellent at retaining moisture, which can help maintain humidity levels.

Natural Feel: It gives a soft and natural texture for geckos to walk on.

Upkeeping Your Coconut Fiber Substrate

Moisture Check: Ensure it doesn’t get too damp, which can lead to mold or bacterial growth.

Replacement: Coconut fiber should be fully replaced every month or so, with spot cleaning done as necessary in between.

Leopard geckos, like other reptiles, are ectothermic or cold-blooded. This means they don’t have the ability to regulate their body temperature internally as mammals do. Instead, they rely on external sources for warmth. This makes heating not just a luxury but a necessity for their survival in captivity.

Imagine if you were placed in an environment where you couldn’t get warm no matter how hard you tried. Pretty uncomfortable, right? For leopard geckos, it’s not just about comfort; it’s about digestion, metabolism, and overall vitality. The heat aids in the digestion of food, ensuring they extract all the nutrients they need from what they eat. Without proper heating, their metabolism slows, leading to health issues.

But it’s not just about cranking up the heat. Providing a consistent, overly hot environment can be as detrimental as not providing heat at all. This is where the concept of “temperature gradients” comes into play.

Temperature Gradients: The Warm and the Cool of It

In the wild, leopard geckos have the luxury to move between sunny patches and shaded areas to regulate their body temperature. Replicating this in captivity is crucial. Temperature gradients mean having a warmer side, often called the “basking side,” and a cooler side in the enclosure.

The basking side allows them to warm up, aiding in digestion and promoting activity. Meanwhile, the cooler side offers them a place to retreat when they want to regulate their temperature or simply rest without excessive warmth. This setup encourages natural behaviors, like thermoregulation, where they move between the two zones to find their comfort spot.

Under Tank Heaters

Under tank heaters are akin to a spa retreat for leopard geckos! These devices are placed below the tank to provide warmth, mimicking the heated rocks and surfaces found in their natural habitat.

Benefits for Leopard Geckos

Direct warmth: Provides heat directly to the gecko’s belly, aiding in digestion.

Consistent heat: Maintains a steady warmth that’s especially beneficial during the night.

Proper Placement and Usage

Basking side: Place on one side of the tank to maintain a temperature gradient.

Safety first: Ensure a gap or a substrate barrier exists between the gecko and the heater to prevent burns.

Monitor: Always use a thermometer to keep track of the temperatures.

Ceramic Heat Emitters

Think of ceramic heat emitters as silent, invisible suns. They provide warmth without light, making them perfect for nighttime heating.

How They Work :

Radiant heat: Emits infrared radiation that warms the surfaces below without any visible light.

Why Choose Them :

Nocturnal friendliness: Doesn’t disrupt the gecko’s sleep-wake cycle.

Durability: Often lasts longer than traditional bulbs.

Precautions :

Hot to touch: Ensure there’s enough distance from the gecko to prevent burns.

Thermostat: Pair with a thermostat for consistent temperature control.

Basking Lights

The sun’s substitute in captivity! Basking lights simulate sunlight, providing both warmth and a source of visible light.

Importance :

Natural behavior: Promotes basking behavior in geckos.

Digestion aid: Direct warmth helps in digestion.

Position: Place above the basking side but ensure a cool zone exists.

Timing: Use during daylight hours, mimicking a natural day-night cycle.

Infrared Heat Bulbs

The middle ground between ceramic emitters and basking lights, infrared heat bulbs give off a soft red glow along with warmth.

Nighttime use: Provides warmth without being as disruptive as bright lights.

Visible warmth: Easier to gauge the bulb’s functioning due to its glow.

Less natural: The red light isn’t a complete replica of the gecko’s natural environment.

Best Practices :

Pair with a thermostat: Prevent overheating or fluctuating temperatures.

Placement: Ensure it doesn’t overheat one section of the enclosure.

Similar to under tank heaters but more versatile in placement.

Advantages :

Flexibility: Can be placed under or on the sides of the tank.

Even heating: Spreads warmth uniformly.

Potential Risks :

Burns: If placed improperly or without a barrier, it can get too hot for the gecko.

Guidelines :

Side placement: If using on the sides, place it on the lower half to ensure the heat rises naturally.

Monitor: Use with a thermometer and adjust as needed to maintain optimal temperatures.

Imagine living under the same flat, unchanging light, day in and day out. It’d be pretty disorienting, right? For leopard geckos, lighting isn’t just about visibility. It plays a pivotal role in simulating a natural environment, dictating their circadian rhythms, and influencing their overall well-being.

Leopard geckos are crepuscular, meaning they are most active during the twilight hours of dawn and dusk. They bask under the sun’s natural light in the wild and retreat to the shadows when it becomes too intense or when darkness falls. To replicate this natural setting within the confines of captivity, proper lighting is crucial. Let’s break down the various facets of this glowing topic!

Natural vs. Artificial Lighting :

While nothing can completely replicate the sun’s natural spectrum, modern lighting solutions come pretty darn close. Natural sunlight aids in vitamin D synthesis and supports their circadian rhythm. However, when relying on artificial sources, it’s vital to ensure they mimic the sun’s broad spectrum, especially if your gecko’s enclosure doesn’t receive natural light.

UVB Lighting :

Contrary to some beliefs, leopard geckos do benefit from UVB lighting. This type of light enables them to synthesize vitamin D3, which in turn helps in calcium absorption – a vital element for their bone health. A low percentage UVB bulb (around 5%) can be beneficial if used correctly. It should be placed at an appropriate distance and used in conjunction with a regular light-dark cycle.

Day and Night Cycle :

Just like us, leopard geckos have a biological clock. By mimicking a natural day-night cycle with 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of darkness, you help them regulate their sleep patterns, feeding times, and breeding behaviors. A disruption in this cycle can stress them out and lead to health issues.

Red or Blue Night Lights :

While these lights can be aesthetically pleasing to the pet owner and helpful for nighttime viewing, there’s some debate about their impact on geckos. Some believe that these lights can disturb the gecko’s natural sleep cycle. If you choose to use them, it might be best to keep them on for short durations.

Dimming and Thermostats :

Just as the natural world doesn’t suddenly jump from light to dark, your gecko’s world shouldn’t either. Using dimmable lights or a thermostat-controlled lighting system can gradually reduce the intensity as “night” approaches, reducing stress and more closely mimicking twilight.

For many of us, lighting is just a matter of flipping a switch. But for leopard geckos, it’s so much more than that. Lighting plays a significant role in simulating a natural environment for these intriguing reptiles, shaping their very behaviors, rhythms, and overall health.

Native to the deserts of Asia and India, leopard geckos have evolved under the rhythmic dance of the sun and the shadows. They are crepuscular creatures, coming to life during the gentle hours of dawn and dusk. This behavior isn’t just a random choice; it’s deeply connected to the patterns of light in their environment. By basking under the sun’s gentle morning rays and feeding in the softer light of dusk, they’ve carved out a niche that’s served them well for millennia.

In captivity, replicating this natural lighting cycle is paramount. Just as with humans, a consistent light-dark cycle helps regulate their internal clock. This cycle affects everything from their feeding patterns to their sleep and even their breeding behaviors. An inconsistent or inappropriate lighting setup can lead to stress, confusion, and health problems.

Moreover, while leopard geckos absorb Vitamin D3 from their diet, UVB lighting can further assist in its synthesis, aiding in calcium absorption and promoting bone health. It’s a misconception that these geckos don’t benefit from UVB lighting; in truth, when used correctly, it can be quite beneficial.

However, this doesn’t mean you should keep their habitat brightly lit at all times. Since they’re not typically out basking in the midday sun, too much light can be as problematic as too little. Striking the right balance by simulating the soft glow of dawn and dusk, and ensuring a period of darkness, helps keep your gecko feeling at home, even when miles away from their natural habitat.

Ah, the UVB light, one of the unsung heroes in the world of reptile care. While Leopard Geckos get much of their Vitamin D3 from their diet, UVB lights play a pivotal role in aiding them to metabolize this vitamin more effectively. This in turn facilitates calcium absorption, which is vital for bone health and overall vitality. Neglecting this aspect can lead to illnesses like Metabolic Bone Disease.

When selecting a UVB light for your gecko, it’s essential to pick one that offers a spectrum suitable for desert species. Not all UVB lights are made equal, and some are tailored for tropical reptiles. As for brands, companies like Zoo Med, Exo Terra, and Arcadia are renowned for producing high-quality reptile lighting.

LED lights have gained immense popularity among reptile enthusiasts and for a good reason. These lights are excellent for providing bright, visible light without emitting much heat, ensuring that your gecko’s enclosure remains at the ideal temperature. LEDs are also energy-efficient, meaning they won’t make a significant dent in your electricity bill.

However, when incorporating LED lights into a Leopard Gecko’s environment, it’s crucial to ensure they don’t disrupt the reptile’s natural day-night cycle. Always be mindful of where they’re placed and the amount of light they emit, especially if they’re used alongside other light sources.

Day/Night Lights

Mother Nature has a rhythm, and Leopard Geckos are tuned into it. Mimicking a natural day-night light cycle is essential for these reptiles. A consistent cycle not only helps regulate their internal clock but also sets the stage for natural behaviors like hunting, basking, and resting.

Automated timers can be a godsend for maintaining these cycles. Set them up to replicate dawn, daytime, dusk, and nighttime conditions. This rhythmic light exposure will ensure your gecko knows when it’s time to play and when it’s time to rest.

There’s been some chatter in the reptile community about red lights. Many believe that reptiles can’t see the red spectrum, making it an ideal solution for nighttime viewing. However, recent studies suggest that Leopard Geckos can perceive this light, and it might disrupt their sleep.

If you’re keen on observing your gecko’s nocturnal antics, consider using infrared heat lamps, which are less obtrusive. Alternatively, invest in night vision cameras or simply minimize the use of red lights.

Incandescent Lights

Often seen as the old guard in the world of reptile lighting, incandescent lights can still play a role in a Leopard Gecko’s habitat. They emit both light and heat, making them suitable for creating basking spots. However, their heat output means they shouldn’t be the sole light source in the enclosure.

Humidity & Hydration

“Hey there, gecko lover! Have you ever wondered what makes your scaly friend shine so brightly or why they seem so sprightly after a good shed? The answer often lies in a delicate balance of humidity and hydration. Let’s dive into the misty world of Leopard Geckos and discover how these factors play a pivotal role in their lives.”

Humidity might seem like an abstract concept to many, but for Leopard Geckos, it’s as tangible as the air they breathe. Originating from arid and semi-arid environments, these geckos are used to low humidity levels. However, a touch of moisture is essential, especially during shedding. Ever noticed your gecko struggling to shed, leaving patches of old skin clinging to its body? That’s often a sign that the humidity isn’t quite right. Providing a moist hide filled with damp moss or a similar substrate can be a lifesaver during these times. It creates a mini spa retreat for your gecko, helping ease the shedding process.

But it’s not just about the external; what’s inside counts too. Hydration plays a pivotal role in a Leopard Gecko’s overall health. These creatures get most of their water from the dew and the prey they consume in the wild. However, in captivity, it’s crucial to provide a shallow dish of fresh water. Not only does it keep them hydrated, but it also aids in digestion and helps keep them cool on warmer days.

Dehydration can sneak up on these little guys. Telltale signs include sunken eyes, lethargy, and loose skin. On the flip side, overhydration can also be an issue. Yes, there’s such a thing as too much of a good thing! Leopard Geckos store excess fat and water in their tails. A plump tail is generally a good sign, but if it starts to look excessively swollen, it might be time to consult a vet.

Lastly, let’s not forget the respiratory benefits of appropriate humidity. Too dry, and your gecko may experience respiratory distress. Too humid, and you’re looking at potential fungal or bacterial infections.

Water Dishes

Ah, the humble water dish. Such a simple item, but oh-so crucial in your Leopard Gecko’s world. Just as we humans need our daily dose of H2O, so do these vibrant reptiles. Water dishes serve as a consistent hydration source, ensuring that your gecko never has to go far to quench its thirst. It’s not just about drinking though. On particularly hot days, don’t be surprised if you catch your gecko taking a quick dip to cool off! When choosing a dish, ensure it’s shallow enough for your gecko to drink from without the risk of drowning. Also, keep it clean! Change the water daily and give the dish a thorough clean every week to prevent bacteria build-up.

Imagine a soft drizzle on a warm day. That’s what drippers bring to your gecko’s habitat. These devices, often seen in tropical reptile enclosures, can be a fun addition to boost humidity levels in a controlled manner. By mimicking the dewy mornings of their native habitats, drippers can make your Leopard Gecko’s home feel more authentic. When setting up, ensure the dripper isn’t too forceful; you don’t want to flood the enclosure! A steady, gentle drip is perfect. Remember to use dechlorinated water and monitor humidity levels to ensure it doesn’t get too damp in there.

Mist Systems

Thinking of bringing some tropical vibes to your gecko’s pad? A mist system might be just the ticket. These systems disperse fine water droplets throughout the enclosure, raising humidity levels. They’re especially beneficial during shedding season, making the process smoother for your reptilian buddy. However, they’re not without their cons. Overuse can lead to excessive humidity, potentially causing respiratory issues. To strike the right balance, use a hygrometer to monitor moisture levels, ensuring they don’t go too high. Also, time the misting to either the early morning or late evening, mimicking the gecko’s natural environment.

Humidity Hides

Everyone needs a cozy retreat now and then, and for your Leopard Gecko during shedding season, a humidity hide is paradise. Think of these as mini wellness spas for geckos. Filled with damp moss or a similar substrate, they offer a moist environment that aids the shedding process. Whether you opt for a fancy store-bought version or decide to DIY with a plastic container, the key is moisture. Remember to keep the substrate damp (not soaking) and clean it regularly to avoid mold.

Here’s an oldie but a goodie! Sponges can serve as natural humidifiers in a gecko’s habitat. Simply place a wet sponge in the enclosure, and as the water evaporates, humidity levels rise. Easy peasy! However, there are some ground rules. Always use an untreated, natural sponge. Chemicals and artificial additives? Big no-nos. Also, ensure the sponge is damp, not drenched. Excessive water can spill, leading to unwanted moisture buildup. Lastly, just like with the water dish, cleanliness is key. Regularly rinse and replace the sponge to keep your gecko’s home fresh and bacteria-free.

Hideouts & Decor

Imagine living in an empty room with just the basics for survival. Sounds dull, right? The same goes for our scaly friends, the Leopard Geckos. These vivacious creatures, while hardy and adaptable, have innate behaviors and instincts that are magnified when their environment mirrors their natural habitats. Hideouts and decor play a pivotal role in not just sprucing up their enclosures, but also in fostering mental well-being and replicating the environments they’ve evolved in.

The Comfort of Concealment:

In the wild, Leopard Geckos are often on the menu for various predators. As a result, they’ve developed a natural inclination to seek shelter and hide. Hideouts in their enclosures offer them a haven, a place where they feel safe from prying eyes and potential threats. It’s not just about safety, though; it’s also about comfort. Having a dark, secluded spot to retreat to can help them regulate their body temperature and get some downtime away from the light.

Stimulating Natural Behaviors:

By introducing various decor elements like branches, rocks, and plants (real or artificial), you’re giving your gecko a playground. These additions encourage climbing, exploring, and hunting behaviors. Remember those cute videos of geckos pouncing on their food? Well, a well-decorated enclosure can stimulate such natural predatory instincts.

Mental Stimulation:

A gecko’s world revolves around its enclosure. Without changes or interesting elements, life can get pretty monotonous. Incorporating different textures, levels, and hiding spots can keep their minds active. Think of it as interior designing for your gecko’s mental health!

Aesthetic Appeal:

Let’s not forget the human aspect of this. A well-decorated gecko enclosure can be a conversation starter and a visual treat for us. Watching your gecko navigate through a lush, intricate environment is not only pleasing to the eye but also reinforces the bond between pet and owner, knowing you’ve created a slice of nature for them.

Cave Hideouts

Why Caves? Nature has its way of providing shelter to creatures, and for Leopard Geckos, caves are among their favorites. These dark, cool recesses mimic the crevices and hideaways that they seek out in the wild, providing them both refuge from predators and a spot to cool down.

Safety: Caves offer a sense of security, allowing geckos to feel safe from perceived threats.

Temperature Regulation: The coolness of cave hideouts can help in temperature regulation, offering a place to retreat from warmth.

Privacy: Just as we need our alone time, geckos value their privacy too, especially during shedding or when they’re feeling stressed.

Placement: Locate cave hideouts on both the warmer and cooler sides of the enclosure to provide options.

Size Matters: Ensure the cave is spacious enough for your gecko to enter, turn around, and lay down comfortably.

Material: Opt for natural-looking materials to enhance the aesthetics and provide a more genuine experience for your gecko.

Log Hideouts

Logs bring a touch of the forest into the desert-dwelling Leopard Gecko’s enclosure. They offer a rustic feel and, more importantly, a multifunctional space for both hiding and climbing.

Versatility: Logs serve as both hideouts and platforms.

Texture: Their rugged exterior is great for shedding geckos.

Safe Materials:

Untreated Wood: Ensure that any wood used hasn’t been treated with chemicals.

Purchase from Reputed Sellers: To ensure safe and suitable materials.

Rock Hideouts

The rocky landscapes are home terrains for Leopard Geckos. Incorporating rocks can create familiar surroundings.

Natural Feel: Rocks replicate the gecko’s natural environment.

Basking Spots: They can serve as excellent basking spots when placed under a heat source.

Precautions:

Smooth Edges: Ensure no sharp edges that could harm your gecko.

Stability: Any rock setup should be stable to prevent toppling over.

Plants, both artificial and live, add layers of texture, color, and depth to the enclosure.

Role in Enclosure:

Aesthetics: They beautify the space.

Hideouts: Geckos can sometimes use plants as temporary hideaways.

Recommended Species:

Succulents: They’re hardy and mimic the gecko’s natural environment.

Snake Plants: They’re low maintenance and safe.

Climbing Branches

While they’re not avid climbers like some reptiles, Leopard Geckos do enjoy an occasional climb.

Exercise: Helps in physical stimulation.

Variety: Adds another dimension to their habitat.

Untreated Wood: Ensure branches haven’t been chemically treated.

Natural Textures: These can assist with shedding.

Backgrounds

Beyond the floor of their enclosure, the walls too play a role in a gecko’s life.

Enhancing Visual Appeal:

Thematic Representation: Desert landscapes or rocky terrains can transport your gecko back to its natural habitat.

Depth Perception: Adds depth to the enclosure, making it appear larger.

Best Types:

3D Backgrounds: They provide both texture and aesthetics.

Printed Panoramas: These can depict natural landscapes, offering a visual treat for both geckos and owners.

Feeding Accessories

Every animal has its way of interacting with food in its natural habitat. For the Leopard Gecko, a creature that’s evolved over millions of years in the wild, feeding is not just about nutrition but also about the act of hunting and the stimulation it provides. Thus, when in captivity, it becomes vital to simulate this experience as closely as possible, both to ensure they are getting a balanced diet and to provide the mental and physical stimulation that hunting offers. Feeding accessories play a crucial role in this aspect.

The Hunger Games: In the wild, a Leopard Gecko doesn’t have its meal served on a plate. It hunts, stalks, and pounces. This behavior is not just about satisfying hunger but is also a form of exercise and mental stimulation. Captivity shouldn’t deprive them of this natural instinct. Feeding accessories can help recreate a semblance of this hunt.

Nutritional Balance : Like us, Leopard Geckos need a balanced diet. It’s not just about what they eat, but also how they eat it. Some nutrients can be lost if food is not presented or stored correctly. Using the right feeding accessories can ensure that they get all the essential nutrients in the right amounts.

Safety First : We might not think of a mealworm as a threat (and, generally, they’re not), but how food is presented can pose risks. For instance, loose insects in the enclosure can stress a gecko if not hunted down quickly. Proper feeding tools ensure that the food is accessible without posing any threats.

Portion Control : Overfeeding is a genuine concern. With the right feeding accessories, one can ensure that the gecko gets the right amount of food, preventing issues related to obesity and overconsumption.

Ease of Maintenance : Cleaning up after feeding time is easier when you have the right accessories. They not only help present the food in an organized manner but also make post-feeding cleanup a breeze.

Food Dishes

For a creature as specific as a Leopard Gecko, the type of dish you serve its food in matters. Food dishes play a pivotal role in determining how your gecko interacts with its meal.

Different Types of Food Dishes Suitable for Leopard Geckos:

Shallow Dishes: Ideal for mealworms or other insects to prevent them from escaping.

Divided Dishes: These are beneficial for offering a variety of foods or separating live food from other dietary supplements.

Flat Rock Dishes : Mimic the natural environment and can be used for both insects and supplemental food.

Placement Within the Enclosure: Ensure that food dishes are placed in a location where they’re easily accessible to the gecko. Avoid placing them too near the heating elements to prevent live food from getting too warm or drying out.

Cricket Keepers

Role in Maintaining Live Food: Cricket keepers are specialized containers designed to house live crickets, one of the Leopard Gecko’s favorite foods. These containers often come with tubes that allow for easy transfer of crickets without touching them, ensuring they’re fresh and active when it’s feeding time.

Tips for Using Cricket Keepers Effectively:

Keep the keeper clean to prevent mold and mite infestations.

Offer cricket food to keep them nutritious for your gecko.

Avoid overcrowding as crickets can become stressed and less nutritious.

Mealworm Dishes

Importance in a Leopard Gecko’s Diet: Mealworms are rich in protein and a favorite for many Leopard Geckos. Serving them in a specific dish prevents them from burrowing and escaping.

Best Practices for Using Mealworm Dishes:

Choose dishes with smooth, vertical sides to prevent mealworms from climbing out.

Clean the dish regularly to remove any dead mealworms or sheddings.

Place the dish in a cooler part of the terrarium to prevent the mealworms from pupating quickly.

Benefits and Precautions: Feeding tweezers allow for precise offering of food, be it live insects or other treats. They ensure that food is presented safely, without the risk of fingers being mistaken for food.

Benefits: Offers a safe distance when feeding, ensures hygienic feeding, and allows for targeted feeding.

Precautions: Always use soft-tipped or rubber-tipped tweezers to prevent injuries to your gecko. Move slowly and deliberately to avoid startling your pet.

Recommendations: Stainless steel tweezers with soft or rubber tips are ideal. Ensure they’re of a length that offers safety but still allows for control.

Supplements Dispensers

Importance of Supplements: To replicate the diverse diet a Leopard Gecko would have in the wild, supplements are crucial. They ensure the gecko gets essential vitamins and minerals, promoting better health and coloration.

Guidelines for Using Supplements Dispensers Effectively:

Choose dispensers that allow for controlled dosages to prevent over-supplementation.

Store supplements in a cool, dry place.

Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations on dosage and frequency.

Cleaning & Maintenance

Ah, the part most pet owners find less thrilling – cleaning and maintenance. Yet, it’s arguably one of the most vital aspects of pet care. Imagine living in the same room all day, every day. You’d want it to be clean, right? Now, let’s zoom into the world of our little reptilian friend, the Leopard Gecko. Their enclosures become their world, and keeping that space clean is paramount for their health and happiness.

Why Cleanliness Matters:

Disease Prevention: Just like in humans, a dirty environment for a Leopard Gecko can be a breeding ground for harmful bacteria and parasites. If left unattended, these microorganisms can lead to infections, diseases, and other health complications.

Stress Reduction: Leopard Geckos, or any animal for that matter, can become stressed in an unkempt environment. Constant exposure to waste, uneaten food, or mold can be distressing, leading to behaviors such as excessive hiding or reduced appetite.

Enhanced Longevity: A clean habitat promotes overall health, which can contribute to a longer, more fulfilling life for your gecko. Regular maintenance ensures that their living conditions are always optimal.

Easier Monitoring: Keeping the habitat clean makes it easier to monitor your gecko’s health. For instance, regular removal of waste can help you notice any changes in fecal consistency or frequency, which might be indicators of health issues.

Tips for Effective Cleaning & Maintenance:

Routine Spot Cleaning: Instead of waiting for the terrarium to become a mess, engage in daily spot cleaning. This involves removing fecal matter, uneaten food, or sheddings as and when you spot them.

Deep Cleaning: Every month, set aside some time for a thorough cleaning. This will involve removing the gecko safely to a temporary holding area, taking out all the substrate and decor, and cleaning the tank with reptile-safe disinfectants. After everything’s dry, you can reintroduce fresh substrate and return the decor and your gecko to their home.

Water Dish Maintenance: Ensure the water dish is always clean. Change the water daily and clean the dish at least once a week to prevent algae buildup or bacterial contamination.

Check for Mold and Fungus: Humidity, especially in specific hiding spots, can be a haven for mold and fungus. Regularly inspect these spots, and if you find any, remove and clean them immediately.

Regularly Check Equipment: Whether it’s the heating mat, UVB light, or the mist system, regularly ensure that all equipment is functioning correctly. Faulty equipment can cause rapid changes in the environment, which could be harmful to your gecko.

Terrarium Cleaners

Why a Specific Terrarium Cleaner is Necessary: When it comes to cleaning your Leopard Gecko’s home, not just any cleaner will do. Household cleaners often contain chemicals that are harmful, if not lethal, to reptiles. Terrarium cleaners, on the other hand, are specially formulated to be safe for these sensitive creatures, ensuring that no toxic residues are left behind that could harm your gecko.

Recommended Terrarium Cleaners for Leopard Geckos: There are several terrarium cleaners on the market known for their effectiveness and safety. Look for those that are labeled as reptile-safe or non-toxic. Some popular brands include “ReptiSafe” and “Natural Habitat Cleaner.” Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using these products.

Sand Sifters

The Role of Sand Sifters in Maintaining a Clean Enclosure: If you’re using sand as a substrate (though it’s worth noting the concerns surrounding this), sand sifters can be invaluable. These tools allow you to quickly and easily sift through the sand, removing waste and uneaten food without having to replace the entire substrate. This not only keeps the environment clean but also saves money in the long run.

Tips for Using Sand Sifters Effectively:

Use a gentle shaking motion to allow the sand to fall through the sifter, leaving the waste behind.

Clean the sifter after each use to prevent bacterial buildup.

Store in a dry location to extend its lifespan .

Waste Removal Tools

Essential Tools for Effective Waste Removal: Dealing with waste promptly is crucial to maintaining a clean and healthy environment. Tools like reptile scoops, tweezers, or even simple plastic gloves can make this task more manageable and hygienic.

Proper Techniques for Waste Removal in a Leopard Gecko’s Enclosure:

Always remove waste as soon as you spot it. Daily checks are ideal.

Use tools instead of bare hands to prevent the spread of bacteria.

Dispose of waste in a sealed bag or container to contain the smell and bacteria.

Disinfectants

Importance of Disinfectants in Preventing Diseases: While regular cleaning is vital, disinfecting takes it a step further by killing harmful microorganisms that might be lurking in the terrarium. Given the sensitivity of Leopard Geckos, it’s crucial to use disinfectants that won’t harm them.

Safe and Effective Disinfectants for a Leopard Gecko’s Enclosure:

White Vinegar and Water: A 50/50 mix can be an effective and safe disinfectant.

Reptile-Specific Disinfectants: There are several on the market, designed especially for terrariums.

Diluted Chlorine Bleach: While effective, ensure it’s thoroughly rinsed out to avoid any residual bleach.

Scrub Brushes

The Role of Scrub Brushes in Maintaining a Clean Enclosure: Over time, a terrarium might develop hard-to-remove spots, such as dried waste or mineral deposits from water. Scrub brushes, with their stiff bristles, are perfect for tackling these tough areas without scratching the terrarium’s surface.

Best Types and Uses of Scrub Brushes for Cleaning:

Soft-Bristled Brushes: Ideal for glass surfaces to avoid scratches.

Hard-Bristled Brushes: Perfect for scrubbing rocks, decor, or tough stains.

Toothbrushes: Their small size makes them great for getting into tight spots or detailing.

Handling & Interaction

Leopard Geckos, with their calm demeanor and eye-catching appearance, have become one of the most beloved reptile pets worldwide. But while they might not wag their tails or purr like cats and dogs, these little reptiles, when cared for correctly, can form a remarkable bond with their human caretakers. Cultivating this bond is not only beneficial for the owner but plays a crucial role in the gecko’s overall wellbeing. Let’s delve into the significance of gentle handling and interactive engagements.

The Essence of Gentle Handling

Handling your Leopard Gecko is more than just a physical interaction; it’s a dance of trust. For a creature that primarily sees the world as either predator or prey, the giant hand of a human can be quite intimidating. The way we introduce and maintain our interactions can set the tone for your pet’s perception of you.

Acclimatization is Key: Just like any relationship, building trust with your gecko takes time. When they’re new to your home, give them a few days to adjust to their surroundings before attempting to handle them.

The Right Technique: Always scoop up the gecko gently from the side or beneath, never grabbing them from above. This minimizes stress and reduces the chance of injury.

Consistency Matters: Regular, but not overly frequent, handling can make your gecko accustomed to your presence, further strengthening your bond.

Interactive Toys and Activities

While Leopard Geckos are not known to play fetch, incorporating interactive toys and activities can be a wonderful way to engage with them.

Tunnels and Mazes: Setting up small tunnels or mazes can stimulate their natural curiosity. Watch as they explore and navigate through, providing both mental stimulation and physical exercise.

Feeding Lures: While not exactly a ‘toy,’ guiding their food (like mealworms) with tweezers can simulate a hunting experience, making feeding time more interactive.

Soft Balls: Some geckos show interest in soft balls, especially if they move. Gently rolling one in their vicinity might pique their curiosity.

Handling Gloves

Benefits and Recommendations for Handling Gloves:

Handling gloves aren’t just for the handler’s protection; they can also be beneficial for the Leopard Gecko. These gloves:

Protect the handler from potential nips.

Minimize the transmission of natural oils or lotions from our hands, which might be harmful to the gecko.

Offer a consistent texture that can be familiar to the gecko over time, reducing stress during handling.

When selecting handling gloves, look for those that provide both grip and sensitivity, ensuring you can hold your gecko securely without applying too much pressure.

Proper Technique for Handling with Gloves:

When using gloves, it’s crucial to remain gentle and calm. Always approach your gecko slowly, avoiding sudden movements. Scoop the gecko from the side or underneath, never from above, to reduce the perception of a looming threat.

Travel Carriers

Importance of Travel Carriers:

While Leopard Geckos are generally homebodies, there will be times, such as vet visits or relocations, when travel is necessary. A secure, well-ventilated travel carrier:

Reduces stress by offering a consistent environment.

Keeps the gecko safe from potential dangers during transit.

Safe and Comfortable Travel Carriers for Leopard Geckos:

When choosing a carrier, ensure:

Adequate ventilation.

A secure latch or zipper.

Some substrate or soft lining at the bottom to prevent sliding.

Using Playpens for Out-of-Enclosure Time:

A playpen is a controlled environment that allows your Leopard Gecko some freedom outside its regular habitat. Benefits include:

Mental stimulation from a new environment.

Additional exercise space.

Opportunity for more direct interaction with the owner.

Tips for Introducing and Using Playpens:

Start with short sessions and gradually increase the duration.

Place familiar items inside, like their favorite hideout, to make them feel at ease.

Always supervise your gecko during playpen time to ensure their safety.

Role and Safety of Leashes:

While unconventional, some gecko owners do use leashes. Leashes:

Offer controlled movement outside the enclosure.

Allow for safe outdoor exposure.

Recommendations for Suitable Leashes:

Ensure the leash is designed specifically for reptiles, especially smaller ones like Leopard Geckos.

The leash should be lightweight and not constricting.

Always monitor your gecko when on a leash to prevent entanglements or escapes.

Activity Toys

Toys and Activities for Leopard Geckos:

Leopard Geckos, like all creatures, benefit from mental and physical stimulation. Some activity ideas include:

Tunnels that they can explore.

Soft balls they can push around.

Mazes constructed from safe materials.

Recommendations for Safe and Stimulating Toys:

Ensure toys are made from non-toxic materials.

The size should be appropriate; avoid anything too small that might be ingested.

Always supervise your gecko during playtime to ensure they’re safe and enjoying the activity.

Health & Wellness

To ensure a Leopard Gecko lives a full, healthy life, monitoring and promoting their health and wellness is paramount. This requires not only routine care but also specialized accessories tailored to their unique needs.

Thermometers

Role of Thermometers:

For cold-blooded animals like the Leopard Gecko, the external environment heavily influences their internal body temperature. Thus, maintaining an optimal temperature range in their enclosure is crucial for metabolic processes, digestion, and overall health. Thermometers help keepers ensure that the habitat is neither too cold nor too hot for their pet.

Recommendations for Thermometers:

Digital Probe Thermometers: These provide precise readings and can be placed at various locations within the enclosure.

Infrared Temperature Guns: Allow for quick spot-checking of surface temperatures.

Always monitor temperatures at both the warm and cool ends of the enclosure to ensure a proper gradient.

Hygrometers

Importance of Hygrometers:

Humidity plays a vital role in a Leopard Gecko’s health, impacting processes like shedding and respiratory health. Hygrometers measure the moisture level in the air, assisting in maintaining an environment that is not too dry or overly humid.

Suitable Hygrometers for Leopard Geckos:

Digital Hygrometers: These offer accurate readings and can be easily read.

Analog Hygrometers: Though less precise than digital versions, they can still be effective if calibrated correctly.

Supplements

Role of Supplements:

Leopard Geckos require essential nutrients that they might not always obtain from their primary diet. Calcium is vital for bone health, while multivitamins ensure they receive a well-rounded nutrient profile.

Guidelines for Supplement Usage:

Calcium: Should be provided in a dish for geckos to lick as needed and can also be dusted on feeders.

Multivitamins: Can be offered once a week, dusted on their food.

Always ensure that the calcium supplement is phosphorus-free and that vitamin D3 is provided if the gecko isn’t exposed to UVB lighting.

First Aid Kits

Importance of First Aid Kits:

Accidents or sudden illnesses can occur. Having a first aid kit tailored for Leopard Geckos ensures that you’re prepared to address minor issues or stabilize your pet before a vet visit.

Essential Items for a Leopard Gecko First Aid Kit:

Antiseptic Wipes: For cleaning small wounds.

Tweezers: Useful for removing any debris or foreign materials.

Reptile-Safe Topical Ointment: For treating minor skin injuries.

Saline Solution: To flush out eyes or wounds.

Shedding Aids

Shedding Process and Aids:

Shedding is a natural process for Leopard Geckos, allowing them to replace old skin with new. Sometimes, they may have difficulties, leading to retained shed, which can constrict blood flow if not addressed.

Recommendations for Shedding Aids:

Moist Hide: A humid refuge where the gecko can go to help soften and remove its skin.

Shedding Sprays: Safe solutions that can be sprayed onto the gecko to aid in the removal of stubborn shed.

Soft Brushes: Can be used to gently help remove retained shed from delicate areas.

Leopard Geckos, with their docile nature and striking appearance, have secured their place as one of the most beloved reptilian pets. However, the journey of keeping these exquisite creatures goes beyond mere admiration. It requires dedication, knowledge, and the right tools. From the substrate they tread on, the hideouts they seek solace in, to the health monitoring accessories that assure their wellness, each component in their habitat plays a pivotal role in determining the quality of their life.

Every accessory, be it for feeding, cleaning, or interaction, holds importance in mimicking their natural environment and stimulating their instinctual behaviors. They aren’t just embellishments in an enclosure but tools that enhance the health, comfort, and happiness of these delightful reptiles.

As guardians of these fascinating creatures, investing time and effort in understanding their needs and creating an optimal habitat is not just a responsibility but a joy. The satisfaction derived from seeing your Leopard Gecko thrive in a carefully curated environment is unparalleled. However, remember that the world of reptile care is ever-evolving. Stay curious, keep learning, and remain open to adapting. By doing so, you not only ensure the well-being of your Leopard Gecko but also embark on a rewarding journey of shared growth and mutual discovery.

What size enclosure does my Leopard Gecko need?

Adult Leopard Geckos require a minimum enclosure size of 20 gallons, though bigger is always better. Juveniles can start in a 10-gallon tank but will need to upgrade as they grow.

How often should I replace the substrate in my Leopard Gecko’s enclosure?

This largely depends on the type of substrate you’re using. Paper towels or reptile carpets should be changed or cleaned weekly, while substrates like coconut fiber may only need a complete change every few months. However, spot cleaning should be done daily or as needed.

Does my Leopard Gecko need lighting at night?

No, Leopard Geckos do not require lighting at night. In fact, continuous light can disrupt their natural sleep-wake cycle. If you wish to observe them during their nocturnal activities, consider using a red or infrared light, which is less disruptive.

How can I tell if my Leopard Gecko is too hot or cold?

Using a reliable thermometer is the best way. Ideally, you should have a temperature gradient in the enclosure, with a warmer basking spot around 88-92°F and a cooler end around 75-80°F. If your gecko is constantly hiding in the cooler areas or the heated areas, they might be trying to regulate their body temperature due to it being too cold or hot respectively.

Do Leopard Geckos need a lot of humidity?

Leopard Geckos don’t require high humidity like some reptiles. However, maintaining a humidity level between 30% to 40% is recommended. During shedding, a slightly higher humidity can be beneficial, which is where humidity hides come into play.

What kind of hideout should I provide for my Leopard Gecko?

It’s essential to offer multiple hideouts, including a warm hide, a cool hide, and a moist or humidity hide (especially useful during shedding). Cave-like hideouts, logs, or rock hideouts work well.

How often should I feed my Leopard Gecko and what feeding accessories do I need?

Juvenile Leopard Geckos should be fed daily, while adults can be fed every other day. Having a food dish for mealworms, tweezers for handling live food, and a cricket keeper for storing live crickets can be beneficial.

What’s the best way to clean my Leopard Gecko’s enclosure?

Spot clean daily by removing feces and any uneaten food. Perform a deep clean, which involves cleaning and disinfecting the entire enclosure and changing out the substrate, once a month or as needed based on your substrate type.

Can I handle my Leopard Gecko and what accessories can aid in safe handling?

Yes, Leopard Geckos are generally docile and can be handled. However, it’s essential to be gentle and avoid sudden movements. Handling gloves can offer protection against unintentional bites or scratches.

How can I monitor my Leopard Gecko’s health?

Regularly checking your gecko for signs of stress, changes in eating or shedding habits, and any visible injuries is crucial. Using thermometers and hygrometers can help ensure your gecko’s environment is optimal. Providing the right supplements and having a first aid kit on hand can also aid in ensuring and monitoring their health. If in doubt, always consult a reptile vet.

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Leopard Gecko Vacation Care

*We’re an affiliate – we may earn a commission through qualifying purchases from the links on this page from Amazon and other third parties. As always, thanks!*

You’re a responsible pet owner, but everybody needs a vacation or holiday sometime.   How can you leave home for an extended period and make sure your beloved leopard gecko is going to be okay?  Here are some things to consider for leopard gecko vacation care.

Leopard geckos are hearty reptiles, and are not a high maintenance pet.  As long as their temperature is correct and they have the necessary creature comforts available in their tank , they really just need to be fed.  A normal feeding schedule for adult geckos is every two or three days.  This lends itself well with minimal disruption in schedule if you arrange for someone to check on your place while you’re away. 

When I first got a leopard gecko, I had a job where I traveled.  A lot.  Sometimes I was home only on the weekends, for weeks at a time.  So, how did I manage to care for the my gecko?

First, I timed bringing my gecko home when I knew I would not be traveling for several weeks. This way I could get it settled in and make sure it acclimated to its new home.  During this time, I did a little bit of  regular handling so the gecko could get used to me.

Lights and Heat

I have lights set up on programmable timers to simulate a day and night cycle.  You could just as easily use a smart plug , which would give you more options and allow you to control your lights from a smartphone. 

I made sure I had the temperature dialed in and it didn’t fluctuate much, other than dropping a few degrees at night when the lights went off. Making sure the lighting and temperature were stable gave me the confidence to leave home for a few days or more.

Helping Hands

When I traveled, I arranged for friends or family stop by two days a week (usually Tuesday and Thursday if I was gone Monday through Friday.)    In addition to bringing in the mail, feeding the cat, emptying the litter box, and generally making sure the place was still standing, they would also check on the leopard gecko.  This usually meant checking the temperature in the enclosure, making sure there were mealworms in the food dish (and not roaming around the tank) and water in the bowl, and making sure nothing had spilled. 

Depending on who was stopping by (and their willingness to handle live insects), I would ask them to dust a cricket and drop it in the cage. 

Care for Short Trips

With this schedule, I had some time to check on things and offer food Monday and Friday before I left and after arriving home, and I had help on Tuesdays and Thursdays.  There was only one day where things were truly on autopilot.

This schedule worked great for being away for about five days.  If you were planning a long weekend getaway or short trip, you would not need to do anything special beyond feeding your gecko before you go.

Leopard Gecko Care for Longer Vacations

What about longer tips?  I’d sometimes travel overseas and occasionally be gone for two or three weeks at a time.  It just meant I had to enlist more help while I was away.  Sometimes instead of every other day, someone dropped by every third day.  Frankly, the gecko would have been fine (but the cat still needed attention.)  The biggest concern was a power outage that would have affected the heat for more than a few days.  Luckily, this never happened (at least not while I was away.)

Related Post: How long can leopard geckos go without heat? Find out how we kept our gecko alive during a blizzard without power for several days.

In a pinch, your leopard gecko could easily last a week without attention, assuming it has a full water bowl.  I’d also suggest a solid bowl for mealworms that will not tip over.  Make sure your gecko is well fed before you leave, drop some mealworms in the bowl, and it should be fine.  Your gecko can live for quite some time burning the fat stored in its tail .   You wouldn’t want to make a habit out of regularly leaving it unattended for long trips, but ultimately it should do well for your average vacation with a little preparation.

At a time in my life where I traveled frequently, knowing a leopard gecko would be just fine unattended for a few days influenced my decision to get one as a pet.   

Make sure you have everything you need for your leopard gecko habitat and visit our HABITAT SETUP Page .

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Reptile Carrier Guide: Gecko Travel Made Easy

Geckos are fascinating creatures that have captured the hearts of reptile enthusiasts around the world. These small, colorful, and low-maintenance pets can be a perfect addition to your home. However, when it comes to transporting your beloved gecko, it’s crucial to ensure their safety and comfort. That’s where reptile carriers come in! In this comprehensive guide, we’ll dive deep into the world of reptile carriers, exploring various types, how to choose the right one, and tips for using them effectively. So, buckle up, and let’s get started on our journey to making gecko travel a breeze!

Understanding Reptile Carriers

Reptile carriers are specially designed containers used to transport geckos and other reptiles safely and comfortably. The primary purpose of a reptile carrier is to provide a secure, temperature-controlled environment for your pet while traveling. Whether you’re taking your gecko to the vet, moving to a new home, or embarking on a road trip, a well-designed reptile carrier is essential for their well-being.

Using a reptile carrier is not only important for your gecko’s comfort but also for its health. Stress from improper transportation can lead to a weakened immune system, making your gecko more susceptible to illness. Furthermore, using a reptile carrier reduces the risk of injury and escape, ensuring your pet arrives at its destination safe and sound.

Types of Reptile Carriers

There’s a variety of reptile carriers available, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Let’s take a look at the three most common types:

Hard-shell carriers

These carriers are made from sturdy materials such as plastic or metal, providing excellent protection for your gecko. They usually feature a secure door or latch and can be easily cleaned. However, they can be heavier and bulkier than other carrier types.

Soft-sided carriers

Made from durable fabric, soft-sided carriers are lightweight and easy to carry. They often include mesh panels for ventilation and a zippered door for easy access. While they may not provide as much protection as hard-shell carriers, they can be more comfortable for your gecko.

Mesh carriers

Mesh carriers are designed with a breathable, lightweight material that allows for optimal airflow. These carriers are great for short trips and provide a comfortable environment for your gecko. However, they may not offer as much protection from external elements or temperature fluctuations.

Other options

For short, simple trips, as well as for bonding, you can also choose a carrier pouch of some sort to keep your reptile close to you!

Choosing the Right Reptile Carrier

To select the perfect reptile carrier for your gecko, consider the following factors:

Size requirements: Make sure the carrier is large enough for your gecko to move around comfortably, but not too big that they feel insecure. A good rule of thumb is to choose a carrier with dimensions at least 1.5 times your gecko’s length and width.

Key Takeaway

Material and durability: Opt for a carrier made from high-quality, durable materials that can withstand regular use. Hard-shell carriers tend to be the most durable option, while soft-sided carriers offer a balance between durability and comfort.

Ventilation and temperature control: Reptiles, including geckos, rely on external heat sources to regulate their body temperature. Choose a carrier with adequate ventilation to prevent overheating and maintain a stable temperature. Mesh carriers provide the best airflow, while hard-shell carriers may require additional ventilation holes.

Ease of cleaning and maintenance: Carriers should be easy to clean and maintain, as geckos may soil their environment during transport. Hard-shell carriers are the easiest to clean, while soft-sided carriers may require more effort.

Security features: Ensure the carrier has a secure latch or closure system to prevent your gecko from escaping. Some carriers may also include locking mechanisms for added safety.

Tips for Using Reptile Carriers

To ensure a smooth and stress-free experience for your gecko during transport, follow these helpful tips:

Preparing the carrier: Before introducing your gecko to the carrier, clean and disinfect it thoroughly. Add appropriate substrate and a hiding spot to create a familiar environment for your pet. This will help them feel more secure during travel.

Introducing the gecko: Gently place your gecko in the carrier and close the door securely. Avoid sudden movements or loud noises that may startle your pet. Give them a few minutes to acclimate to their new surroundings before beginning your journey.

Monitoring during transport: Keep a close eye on your gecko during travel, ensuring they remain comfortable and stress-free. Maintain a stable temperature inside the carrier by using heat packs, if necessary, and avoid exposing the carrier to direct sunlight for extended periods.

Ensuring safety and comfort: Make sure the carrier remains secure and stable throughout the trip. Avoid placing heavy objects on top of the carrier or subjecting it to sudden jolts or movements. Provide your gecko with fresh water, if needed, and minimize travel time to reduce stress.

Top Reptile Carrier Brands and Products

When choosing a reptile carrier, it’s helpful to consider recommendations from other gecko owners and experts. Here are a few top brands and products to start your search:

Exo Terra Reptile Carrier

A durable, hard-shell carrier with a secure door and ample ventilation. Available in multiple sizes to accommodate various gecko species. Exo Terra is a well-known and trusted brand in the reptile space, so you know you can trust their products to be safe for your reptile!

Soft-Shelled Reptile Carrier

A lightweight, plastic carrier with a secure lid and ventilation holes. Great for small to medium-sized geckos. Just make sure to carry it carefully, as the soft shell provides less protection against bumping into things, or objects falling on your gecko!

Siivton Carrier Bag

If you are looking for something larger, this bag is just what you need. For geckos over 10 inches, choose a travel bag like this one to provide them enough space to move around, while also being well-protected by the durable shell. Always make sure to buy a bag specific for pets, as the interior fabrics and materials need to be safe for your pet!

Additional Accessories and Considerations

To further enhance your gecko’s travel experience, consider incorporating the following accessories and considerations:

Heat packs : To maintain a stable temperature inside the carrier, use heat packs designed specifically for reptile transportation. Make sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for safe usage.

Substrates and hiding spots : Add appropriate substrate and a hiding spot to the carrier to create a familiar and comfortable environment for your gecko.

Food and water provisions : Provide fresh water for your gecko during travel, especially if the journey is long. However, it’s generally best to avoid feeding your gecko during transport to minimize stress.

Traveling with multiple reptiles : If you need to transport multiple geckos or reptiles, consider using separate carriers or dividers within a single carrier to prevent potential conflicts or stress.

Legal and Ethical Considerations

When transporting your gecko, it’s important to be aware of the legal and ethical implications:

Transporting across borders : Research and adhere to any regulations or restrictions on transporting geckos across state or country borders. This may include obtaining permits or health certificates.

Compliance with laws and regulations : Familiarize yourself with local laws and regulations regarding reptile ownership and transportation to ensure compliance.

Ethical concerns and best practices : Treat your gecko with respect and care during transportation, minimizing stress and potential harm. Follow best practices for gecko care and consult with experts or fellow gecko owners for advice.

Common Questions

How often should i clean my reptile carrier.

It’s essential to clean and disinfect your reptile carrier before and after each use. Regular cleaning prevents the buildup of bacteria and ensures a healthy environment for your gecko during transport.

Can I use a reptile carrier for other pets like snakes or lizards?

Yes, reptile carriers are designed to accommodate a variety of reptiles, including snakes and lizards. However, always choose the appropriate carrier size and type based on the specific needs of your pet.

What if my gecko gets stressed during transport?

If your gecko shows signs of stress during transport, such as heavy breathing or erratic behavior, try to minimize disturbances and maintain a stable environment. Keep the carrier in a quiet, temperature-controlled area, and avoid sudden movements or loud noises. If you’re concerned about your gecko’s well-being, consult with a reptile expert or veterinarian for guidance.

How can I keep my gecko’s temperature stable in the carrier during winter months?

In colder weather, use heat packs designed for reptile transportation to maintain a stable temperature inside the carrier. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for safe usage, and monitor your gecko’s comfort throughout the journey.

Do airlines have specific requirements for reptile carriers?

Airlines may have specific requirements for reptile carriers, such as size restrictions or guidelines for ventilation and security features. Always check with your chosen airline beforehand to ensure your carrier complies with their regulations and avoid any issues during travel.

Selecting the perfect reptile carrier is an essential step in ensuring the safety, comfort, and well-being of your gecko during travel. By considering factors such as size, material, ventilation, and security features, you can find the ideal carrier for your pet. Don’t forget to follow our tips for using reptile carriers, and consider additional accessories to further enhance your gecko’s travel experience.

Always be mindful of legal and ethical considerations when transporting your gecko, and strive to adhere to best practices and regulations. With the right carrier and proper care, you can make your gecko’s journey a stress-free and enjoyable experience.

So, whether you’re taking your gecko to the vet, moving to a new home, or hitting the road for an adventure, this comprehensive guide has got you covered. Armed with this knowledge, you can confidently choose the perfect reptile carrier and ensure a happy, healthy gecko wherever you go!

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How to Travel In a Car With Your Gecko? [6 Dos and 2 Don’ts]

Geckos are one of the easiest reptile pets to care for and are relatively low-maintenance – however, there are a few key things to keep in mind even if you’re only going to bring them along with you for a short trip to your exotic vet’s clinic. So how can pet parents properly and safely travel with their geckos in a car?

Regardless of the purpose and total time of travel, consider the following when traveling with geckos: 1) carrying container, 2) familiarity, 3) provisions, 4) temperature control, 5) covering, and 6) placement for security. It’s inadvisable to take your gecko on long trips with frequent stop-overs and loud music.

Come with me as I discuss all there is to know about car rides with geckos in greater detail!

Car Travel with Your Gecko: Start with the Basics

Let’s face it, life’s full of surprises and uncertainties. So as gecko keepers, we must always be ready to adjust and make changes in life as they come and go. In the same way, we should also know how to come and go while on trips with our lovely little reptile babies.

6 Things to Consider for a Car Ride with Your Gecko

You might go back home for an extended period or take a month-long vacation somewhere else. Ideally, you’d have someone else close to home that could take care of your baby for you.

Of course, you also need to need to move to a state miles away or regularly visit your local veterinary for a routine check-up. In all of the aforementioned situations, you will probably consider and need personally transporting your gecko while you travel by car.

I’ve briefly touched on this topic in a previous article on what to do with your geckos when you’re planning to go on vacation . But now, I’m going to give you the lowdown on traveling with your gecko!

#1 – Carrying Container

In reality, transporting reptiles, geckos included, is actually an easy and straightforward task. You could safely go on a trip with them without having to worry much about adversely affecting their health aside from possibly stressing them too much on your journey. That is, as long as you keep them in a good carrying container.

There are plenty of options available in your local supermarket, pet store, online shop, and even at home! Good options for temporary carrying containers include all-purpose pet boxes ( here on Amazon), deli cups, plastic terrariums ( here on Amazon), plastic bins, stacking drawers, and even food storage boxes.

Gold tip: Make sure to poke a few holes on the sides or in the lid for proper ventilation . These should be small enough so your gecko can’t escape through them.

If there are no locks on the container, you could also tape the lid to two opposite sides so it doesn’t suddenly pop off. Then, line the bottom with a paper towel for easier cleaning and replacement of temporary substrate.

Geckos should be kept in a well-ventilated small plastic container to restrict their movement and prevent injuries. Such temporary housing must be devoid of clutter if possible that could potentially harm your gecko (e.g., rocks, branches). Additionally, the bottom should be lined with a paper towel instead of a loose substrate.

Some owners have also brought their geckos along for the ride in their original tanks. However, I personally wouldn’t do this nor recommend it to you because it’s too spacious and might crack in case of an abrupt stop. Seeing as the car will constantly be on the move, they might get thrown all over the place. Plus, vivariums usually have a lot of decor in them that could move around and hit – or even crush – your soft-bodied friend.

I mean, sure, you could put a few essential things in there like a makeshift hide from a few crumpled papers or an even smaller plastic box. Soft plants are okay too to make it homier. Other than those, they don’t really need anything else.

I’ve also heard from a friend that he once saw a gecko owner bring their gecko to the vet using a foldable cat carrier. The gecko seemed pretty chill about it but I don’t think I’d try doing that anywhere in the near future.

#2 – Familiarity

Reptiles, geckos especially, are known to need quite a bit of adjustment time before behaving as they normally should when placed in a different enclosure.

So even if you don’t have plans of moving or going on a trip anytime soon, I suggest you prepare a carrying container for your gecko well in advance.

Have them familiarize themselves with their temporary tanks to reduce the risk of stressing them out once you do have to take them on a car ride. Ideally, they should be given at least a week to try out their temporary homes.

Let your gecko spend a few minutes a day in its carrying container. You can start with 15 minutes. Increase time increments for each session until your gecko is okay with staying in there for an hour or so. This is not necessary, but will limit the stress your gecko will undergo in such a travel, especially if the journey is many hours long.

Other than that, let them go about their day as they normally would. Let them eat, sleep, drink, and explore in their original vivariums. Keep their routine relatively consistent.

Don’t leave them alone in a separate room when you do though and do make sure that they don’t get too hot or cold. They might start associating their temporary carriers with negative experiences if you do.

#3 – Provisions

You might think that you should pack food and water for your geckos if you’re going to bring them with you while you travel by car. That, however, isn’t actually the case. Geckos, and most other herps, don’t need water and food especially on trips that take less than a day to complete unless ambient temperatures reach 86°F (30°C) [1].

Most people advise against feeding geckos two days before traveling as well as feeding them while still on the road to prevent indigestion and regurgitation of food. It might sound cruel but it actually isn’t. Remember, geckos, much like every other lizard, can last a few days without being given food and water .

Still, I do understand that most, if not all, keepers would prefer to stay safe than sorry and bring along a bunch of provisions for their reptile companions. There’s water, food, additional paper towels, other cleaning supplies, and many other things.

For short car trips (less than 24 hours), geckos do not need water and food. For long car trips longer than 24 hours, water and food should be supplied to them.

I would advise against placing a water dish in their carrying container when traveling. Just bring a small spray bottle to mist them every so often, they can lick off the condensation if they need to. If it’s hot out and in the car, moisten the paper towel lining the bottom as well.

Also, if you’ll need to pack food for your gecko, you could opt for freeze-dried live feeders like this one on Amazon for less hassle and mess. You won’t have to deal with the nightmare of having live feeders hopping and crawling all over the car.

#4 – Temperature Control

As you probably know by now, geckos are very sensitive to changes in temperature since they are considered “ cold-blooded ” animals. Meaning, they rely heavily on their surroundings to regulate their body temperature.

Geckos don’t need heating and/or cooling materials while traveling by car unless the car temperatures are below 65°F (18°C) or above 90°F (32°C). Most often, a normal ambient temperature of about 75°F (24°C) in your car is safe for geckos.

You can’t exactly bring all their heating equipment in the car to make sure they’re comfortable. Since they’ll be confined in a much smaller space, doing so isn’t safe either. They could get thermal burns and dehydrate much quicker. So how do you heat and cool them up while traveling by car? Well, there are a few ways you could try out.

Use a shipping warmer pack ( here on Amazon), hot water bottle, or a warm bag of rice to help your gecko warm up while traveling in cold weather. Conversely, other solutions can be cold compress ( here on Amazon), an ice pack, a frozen rice packet, or a bag of frozen coconut oil to help your gecko cool down while traveling in hot weather.

Make sure none of the aforementioned materials come into direct contact with your gecko [1]. Wrap a few layers of paper or cloth around them first and then place them outside their carrying containers. Some people put it on top or below the containers. However, an acquaintance who worked for a large reptile shop says that doing so often causes death for animals being shipped.

It would be much better to position the heating or cooling element on a single side so that there is a temperature gradient within the small box. Don’t forget to monitor the temperature inside their temporary tank using a thermometer. Go the extra mile by placing their temporary tanks in an insulated shipping box, polystyrene foam cooler, insulated lunch bags, or with a simple thick towel.

#5 – Covering

Although there aren’t really many studies to explain and back up the theories behind it, several keepers and breeders have experienced seeing extremely stressed out geckos when they are kept in temporary carrying tanks that are all clear and see-through.

It’s highly possible that the ever-changing scenery, as well as the intense light entering the car, are enough to overwhelm and freak out your gecko.

To make sure your gecko doesn’t get upset by these, you can keep their tanks in another layer of insulation as I’ve previously mentioned.

You could also simply cover up all but one side of their tanks with dark tape or paper to make them feel much safer. By doing so, you can still check up on them even while you’re driving. Tote bags, pillowcases, and towels are great options as well.

Take it a step further by installing a few window shades inside your car. Better yet, have your windows tinted.

#6 – Placement for Security

From all the previous factors I’ve pointed out so far, it’s quite obvious that the placement of your gecko’s carrying tank is quite important.

Experts recommend placing temporary carrying containers either on the passenger seat or on the floor right in front of it. By doing so, you can readily check on your gecko.

It should preferably be kept away from places that received direct sun exposure like the dashboard. Placing it right in front of the air conditioning (AC) unit isn’t advisable either.

However, you shouldn’t keep it in the back because it will be harder to check on them in that way. They could be gaping from overheating and they might’ve even escaped without you noticing anything wrong.

Think about sudden breaks and speed bumps too – the shaking, tumbling, and all that. Even if you make sure to address all the 5 points I’ve listed, your gecko and its tank could get thrown all over the place if not tightly and securely restrained.

Use the seat belt, a rope, some harness, or a couple of bungee cords, to safely secure your gecko’s carrying tank in the car. Placing a pillow or thick towel below or around it can also provide additional cushioning.

2 Things to Avoid When Traveling with Your Gecko via Car

There are three major don’ts you should never do when traveling with your gecko. Although none of these will necessarily harm your geckos, it’s still best to give them a stress-free trip if you could. Remember, tail dropping is a common consequence of extreme distress.

#1 – Frequent Stop-overs

Though I have heard of rare cases where gecko owners have successfully transported their geckos, along with their many other pets, via car in as long as 3 days, it’s not something you’d hear frequently.

Even in those rare cases, they don’t drive straight continuously for days on end. Pet parents would usually check into pet-friendly hotels so they can rest. This gives them time to feed and check on their babies too.

Others recommend bringing bigger tanks for geckos to stay in at night but I think that would just exacerbate the stress they’re probably already experiencing. I mean, just imagine it – you’re kept in a dark box for hours but each time you’re taken out of your temporary home, your eyes are greeted by another strange and unfamiliar sight.

Why prolong the agony? The sooner your trip ends, the faster your gecko can get back to doing its normal routine. Stick to short trips with your gecko in tow, if you can’t don’t bring them with you.

#2 – Music on Full Blast

Who doesn’t want music blasting from the speakers during road trips and playing car karaoke? Well, your geckos might not be the biggest fan.

You could try and argue that the insulation you’ve wrapped your gecko’s temporary housing in would be enough all you want. But really think about it. If you have a neighbor that’s belting out his heart and soul while you’re trying to get some rest in bed, it can be pretty bothersome even when you try to block out the ruckus by covering your ears with a pillow.

Despite having ears that are less sensitive to sounds than humans, and most other mammals, geckos don’t do well with extremely loud sounds regardless if they’re abrupt or sustained.

Learn more about how geckos hear and their sound sensitivity by reading this article we’ve already published.

What to Expect After a Car Ride with Your Gecko

Understandably, your gecko may show mild signs of stress after taking a ride in your car for the first time. They may not eat anything or explore as much as they normally would for a day or two after arriving at a new place or getting back home.

Some owners say their little gecko dragons seem to take a liking to car travels after a couple of rides, however, others also say that their geckos never seem to get comfortable while traveling.

To make it easier for them to re-acclimate themselves, other pet parents said that slowly exposing them to their new environments has done wonders. They don’t wave their tails defensively or anything at all. Don’t be so quick to get them out. Instead, slowly take off the covers on their carrying tank before handling them.

Can Your Gecko Get Car Sick?

Newsflash – geckos can experience car sickness from traveling [2]. It hasn’t really been well-documented but there is some evidence for it.

At first, I thought that was just some sort of old wives’ tale within the reptile-keeping community. However, once I delved deeper into the topic, I found out that there was some truth to this claim.

Geckos, like humans and many other animals, may suffer from motion sickness. Signs include gasping, lethargy, and vomiting. In extreme cases, it could lead to death.

Because the information on this is scarce, I’m really not sure what causes this. I mean, they’re known to have sticky feet that allow them to basically defy gravity, right? Hopefully, in the future, more scientists will investigate this so we know how to prevent and treat it.

Taking all of that into consideration, I highly advise against frequently bringing your gecko round in a car for travel unless you actually need to.

If you need to travel by car anywhere with your gecko, give them a dedicated carrying container, let them familiarize themselves with it, bring necessary provisions with you, monitor and regulate for temperature, provide them some covering, and secure them in place.

Don’t go on long trips with frequent stop-overs and insanely loud music if your gecko is with you.

Geckos can experience motion sickness.

[1] https://environment.des.qld.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/90614/cp-wm-captive-reptile-amphibian-husbandry.pdf

[2] https://academic.oup.com/jtm/article/2/3/182/1853034

Andrea, the found of reptile hero, is a guy that by emerging his scientific background (in his past life earned a Ph.D.) and passion for his little reptile companions can put in one place science and his (and more) experience to help others in caring for their little friends.

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Leopard Gecko Cage Setup Ideas For Happy Geckos

Neamul A. Sumon

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Are you a jubilant owner of a leopard gecko? Do you want to ensure your pet is living in a happy and healthy environment? 

One of the most important things you can do for your pet’s well-being is to provide them with an appropriate cage setup. 

In this blog, we will explain why leopard gecko cage setup is crucial for their happiness and how to create the perfect habitat for them.

From choosing the right substrate, lighting, temperature, decor, and accessories, we will cover everything you need to know about keeping your beloved pet comfortable and engaged.

We will also discuss common issues that may arise during the setup process and provide troubleshooting tips. So, if you want to ensure that your leopard gecko lives its best life possible, read on!

What size tank does a leopard gecko need? Leopard Geckos, cherished for their unique charm, thrive in a spacious and enriching environment. A tank size of at least 10 gallons provides ample room for exploration, promoting physical and mental health. This ensures these captivating creatures can exhibit natural behaviors, fostering a fulfilling and contented life.

Leopard Gecko Tank Setup Ideas: Set Up A Leopard Gecko Humidity

Leopard gecko tank accessories, bioactive reptile enclosure, what do leopard geckos need for their cage, choosing the right enclosure size, selecting suitable substrate options, providing adequate hiding spots, proper lighting for leopard geckos, maintaining optimal temperature levels in the enclosure, using heating and cooling devices effectively, incorporating safe and stimulating decorative elements, choosing the right accessories for environmental enrichment, ensuring a comfortable and engaging habitat for leopard geckos: habitat, maintaining a clean and healthy leopard gecko enclosure, understanding leopard gecko behavior and needs, troubleshooting common leopard gecko cage setup issues, monitoring your gecko’s behavior and adjusting the setup accordingly, advanced tips for enhancing leopard gecko cage setup, faq about leopard gecko cage setup, final thought 💭, understanding the importance of leopard gecko cage setup.

Proper leopard gecko habitat is important for the physical and mental health of these reptiles. A well-structured environment reduces stress, encourages natural behaviors, and promotes their ability to thermoregulate.

Mimicking their natural habitat in their enclosure setup is key to promoting instincts, feeding, and breeding behaviors.

Besides, creating an environment that aids in their overall welfare helps leopard gecko owners ensure the happiness of their pets.

Considering the best way to set up the cage without sharp edges and providing suitable substrate options are important factors.

Understanding the impact of direct sunlight and maintaining optimal temperature levels in the enclosure are also essential for creating a healthy environment for these lizards.

Creating an ideal leopard gecko tank setup involves several key elements. It’s important to establish a warm side, and a cool side, and ensure adequate substrate depth for the gecko’s comfort and natural behavior.

Including live plants, natural hides, and basking spots enriches the tank environment and promotes the gecko’s well-being. Proper lighting, temperature gradient, and humidity levels are vital components of the tank setup to mimic the gecko’s natural habitat.

Using substrates that encourage natural behaviors and minimize health issues is essential for the gecko’s optimal health.

Ultimately, a well-equipped tank setup offers leopard geckos a safe and comfortable environment, leading to better overall health outcomes.

Enhancing the leopard gecko habitat involves incorporating various tank accessories such as water dishes, moist hides, and artificial plants.

It’s crucial for leopard gecko owners to provide appropriate water bowls, heating sources, and lighting accessories, ensuring a safe and stimulating environment.

Smooth-edged accessories are essential to prevent health issues, and heating mats, heat lamps, and UVB bulb lighting contribute to the overall welfare of the geckos.

Suitable tank accessories promote natural behaviors and grooming, mimicking their natural habitat and creating a comfortable living space.

Preparing a bioactive reptile enclosure involves establishing a self-sustaining habitat that supports a natural ecosystem.

This setup utilizes live plants, clean-up crews, and natural substrate to foster a healthy, low-maintenance environment for leopard gecko owners.

The bioactive elements provide mental stimulation for the geckos, promoting natural behaviors and activity while reducing stress and supporting natural feeding.

These enclosures offer geckos a more enriched environment, contributing to their overall well-being. It’s a great way to ensure that leopard gecko habitat is engaging and promotes their health.

Leopard geckos require essential elements for their cage, including a moist hide, fresh water source, and proper heating.

Natural hiding spots, a substrate for burrowing, and climbing structures are also crucial.

Providing varied temperature gradients, appropriate lighting, humidity levels, and feeding areas contribute to their wellness. A well-equipped and enriched cage allows geckos to thrive.

Selecting The Best Substrate For The Cage

When considering the best substrate for your leopard gecko’s cage, it’s essential to prioritize their health.

Preventing impaction and digestive issues is crucial, which makes choosing a quality substrate paramount.

By replicating their natural environment, substrates like reptile carpet, moss, or wood chippings can promote natural behaviors and reduce stress for your gecko.

Selecting the best substrate ensures your gecko can maintain proper hygiene and health within their enclosure, supporting their natural habitat and behaviors.

As leopard gecko owners, creating the right environment with suitable substrates is the first thing to address for their overall good health.

When considering the enclosure size for leopard geckos, it’s important to provide ample space for them to move, climb, and explore.

A spacious enclosure allows geckos to exhibit natural behaviors, reducing stress and health issues while promoting their physical and mental well-being.

The dimensions of the enclosure directly impact geckos’ activity levels, feeding behaviors, and overall health, contributing to their comfort, natural habitat representation, and overall well-being.

Ensuring the right tank size is essential for leopard gecko owners to create an environment where their pets can thrive. 

Setting up the habitat for leopard geckos, and selecting suitable substrate options is crucial for their wellness and comfort. Options like reptile carpet, slate, or natural moss enhance the geckos’ environment and enable natural digging, burrowing, and thermoregulation, replicating their natural habitat.

These substrates also promote hygienic conditions and support the geckos’ overall health. Opting for safe, moisture-retaining substrates from pet stores or regular shops further contributes to the geckos’ health and natural behaviors.

Choosing appropriate substrate options is a great way to ensure the comfort, hygiene, and well-being of leopard gecko owners’ pets and enhance their overall habitat.

Gecko owners benefit from incorporating adequate hiding spots, both moist and dry, to create a sense of security and comfort within the leopard gecko’s enclosure.

Well-placed hiding spots promote natural behaviors and reduce stress levels, contributing to the overall health of the geckos.

The inclusion of hiding spots is particularly crucial for leopard geckos, considering their unique tail anatomy.

These hiding spots also provide options for thermoregulation, supporting the geckos’ physical well-being.

Properly positioned hiding spots not only enhance the enclosure setup but also play a crucial role in fostering natural behaviors and the overall health of leopard geckos.

Creating The Ideal Lighting And Temperature Conditions

Leopard geckos, with their special anatomy that helps them blend in, do well when they have the right light and temperature setup.

Proper lighting is vital for the natural habitat simulation of leopard geckos. Maintaining optimal temperature levels is crucial for their health, requiring a balance of heat and cool areas in their enclosure.

Leopard geckos benefit from a temperature gradient, allowing them to regulate body temperature effectively.

Also, UVB lighting supports calcium metabolism and prevents health issues, essential for the well-being of leopard gecko owners.

When making the ideal lighting and temperature conditions, it’s important to consider the best way to provide these elements within the leopard gecko’s habitat, ensuring they are safe and free from sharp edges or direct sunlight.

Leopard geckos benefit from access to a natural day-night cycle, which is essential for their well-being. UVB lighting supports calcium metabolism, preventing health issues. 

A basking spot with moderate heat aids warmth and digestion, while a dimmable, natural daylight lamp supports their natural rhythm.

It’s crucial to provide lighting that does not emit heat, as it supports their health and well-being. Owners should ensure the lighting mimics their natural habitat, promoting the best way for geckos to thrive in their leopard gecko habitat.

To ensure the good health of your leopard gecko, it’s crucial to create a habitat with a warm side and a cool side, allowing them to regulate their body temperature effectively.

Adding a heat mat or heat lamp will help maintain the necessary temperature gradient in the enclosure.

Monitor the temperature levels daily with a thermometer to ensure that your leopard gecko’s habitat remains within the optimal range. 

Providing a temperature gradient is essential for your pet to thermoregulate effectively. Aim for a warm side temperature between 88-90°F and a cool side around 70-75°F to create the perfect environment for your leopard gecko’s enclosure.

In creating a comfortable leopard gecko habitat, heating devices like heat mats or heat lamps are essential for providing the necessary warmth.

Likewise, cooling devices such as ceramic heat emitters help maintain consistent temperature levels within the enclosure, promoting the overall well-being of leopard geckos.

It’s important to ensure proper insulation around heating devices to prevent direct contact and potential harm to the geckos.

Establishing a thermal gradient within the enclosure is crucial, as it allows leopard geckos to regulate their body temperature effectively.

Typically monitoring of temperature levels is also important to ensure the comfort and health of leopard geckos in their enclosure.

Selecting Decor And Accessories For Enrichment

When setting up a leopard gecko’s enclosure, it’s important to include stimulating decorative elements.

Artificial plants can provide hiding spots and enrichment for leopard geckos while incorporating live plants can promote their natural behavior and health.

In addition, essential accessories such as a water dish, moist hide, and dry hide are crucial for their well-being.

Creating an engaging habitat with safe decorative elements and accessories is the best way to ensure your leopard gecko thrives in its environment. As responsible leopard gecko owners, it’s our duty to ensure that the habitat is comfortable, safe, and enriching for our pets.

Incorporating safe and stimulating decorative elements is essential for their well-being while creating a leopard gecko’s enclosure.

Natural-looking decor with rounded edges should be used to prevent injury and ensure the safety of the geckos.

Adding naturalistic backgrounds can enhance the visual appeal and provide stimulation for the geckos.

To mimic their natural habitat, non-toxic, artificial plants should be included in the enclosure. Geckos also enjoy exploring and climbing on safe, natural wood and rock decor, which promotes their physical and mental well-being.

By providing secure and stimulating decor, leopard gecko owners can ensure an enriching environment for their pets.

When setting up a leopard gecko’s enclosure, it’s crucial for leopard gecko owners to consider the best way to create a stimulating environment for their pets.

An easy way to achieve this is by using substrates like reptile carpet, moss, or slate to provide engaging surfaces for geckos.

Terrarium accessories such as ledges, branches, and hides not only offer hideouts but also climbing opportunities for these lizards.

Including natural, live plants in the enclosure is a great way to enrich the leopard gecko habitat. It’s important to include water dishes, moist hides, and dry hides on a regular basis to support the geckos’ health and behavior.

Leopard gecko owners can ensure a comfortable and engaging habitat by considering the best way to set up a leopard gecko’s enclosure.

It’s important to avoid sharp edges and select the right gallon tank and screen lid. Providing a variety of substrates like loose substrates and incorporating natural elements is a great way to promote exploration and mental stimulation.

Besides, creating a balanced habitat that does not expose the geckos to direct sunlight and monitoring the enclosure regularly is key.

This easy way helps in mimicking the gecko’s natural habitat while also ensuring their safety and well-being.

Regularly tending to your leopard gecko’s enclosure is pivotal for their well-being. Daily spot-cleaning to remove waste and soiled substrate maintains a hygienic habitat, safeguarding your pet’s health.

For reptile-safe cleaning products to ensure a safe and sanitized environment. Additionally, regularly refreshing the substrate fosters a clean and healthy setup, preventing potential health issues.

By upholding a stringent cleaning routine, you are actively promoting a flourishing and comfortable environment for your leopard gecko.

Leopard geckos thrive in environments that mimic their natural habitat. Understanding their behavior and needs is crucial for leopard gecko owners.

Providing a moist hide supports proper shedding and hydration, while a warm, sandy substrate replicates their natural environment.

It’s essential to be aware of their feeding, temperature, and humidity requirements for a healthy enclosure.

Creating an enriching environment with natural elements promotes their well-being. Meeting these specific needs is the best way to ensure the happiness of pet geckos.

Understanding the right humidity levels for your gecko’s enclosure is crucial. A temperature gradient in the terrarium is essential for your gecko’s health, and providing a moist hide is necessary to maintain proper moisture levels .

Regularly monitoring calcium levels is important for your gecko’s bone health, and offering a variety of substrates can help prevent impaction issues in your gecko.

This ensures a healthy and comfortable leopard gecko habitat, replicating their natural environment.

By incorporating these measures, leopard gecko owners can create an optimal living space for their pets, promoting their well-being and longevity.

Observing the feeding habits of your leopard gecko can offer valuable insights into its overall health and well-being.

Noting its body temperature and basking behavior allows for adjustments to heating settings, ensuring a comfortable habitat.

Regularly monitoring moisture levels within the gecko’s enclosure is crucial to maintaining its health.

Paying attention to your gecko’s activity throughout the day provides essential information for making setup adjustments.

Observing shedding patterns can indicate the effectiveness of the enclosure setup, guiding necessary modifications.

Implementing these observations is the best way to ensure the habitat meets the specific needs of your leopard gecko.

When enhancing your leopard gecko’s enclosure, consider incorporating live plants to create a more natural environment.

UVB lighting helps maintain calcium levels and overall health, while a bioactive gecko enclosure offers a natural habitat.

Natural substrates like moss or slate contribute to your gecko’s comfort. Implementing a temperature gradient with heat mats and lamps mimics sandy deserts, resembling the gecko’s natural habitat.

These advanced tips elevate your leopard gecko’s habitat, ensuring a stimulating and healthy environment.

Leopard gecko owners can create the best habitat by following these guidelines and understanding the importance of a well-designed enclosure.

Leopard geckos require a spacious cage for movement and exploration. To maintain the ideal temperature of 88-92°F, a heat source like an under-tank heater or heat lamp is necessary. Providing humid hide boxes for security and moist hides for shedding is essential. Substrate options include reptile carpet, paper towels, or tile.

How Should A Leopard Gecko Tank Be Set Up?

To set up a leopard gecko tank, ensure it’s at least 20 gallons in size and has a heat source like an under-tank heater or heat lamp. Provide a hide box for privacy and use safe and easy-to-clean substrates such as reptile carpets or paper towels.

Do Leopard Geckos Like Big Cages?

Leopard Geckos thrive in big cages that allow them to move, explore, and hide. The recommended minimum is 10 gallons per gecko, but bigger cages offer more space for activity and reduce stress. A spacious setup with ample hiding spots promotes a healthy and happy gecko.

Do Leopard Geckos Need 3 Hides?

Leopard Geckos benefit from having at least two hides – one for warmth and one for coolness. Adding a third hide in the middle of the enclosure, providing a humid retreat, can enhance their mental and physical well-being. Multiple hides reduce stress and increase activity levels.

What Kind Of Habitat Is Perfect For A Leopard Gecko?

A vivarium with a warm basking area, a cooler side, and hiding spots is the perfect habitat for leopard geckos, as they are nocturnal and need a comfortable environment to thrive.

Providing a suitable habitat for your leopard gecko is crucial for its overall well-being.

Regularly assessing and adjusting the enclosure setup ensures your gecko’s health and happiness.

Understanding the specific needs of leopard geckos is key to creating an ideal habitat.

Enhancing the leopard gecko cage setup contributes to its physical and mental stimulation.

Proper monitoring and care of the gecko’s environment are essential for its longevity and quality of life.

By prioritizing these aspects, leopard gecko owners can create the best possible habitat for their pets, promoting a healthy and fulfilling life for their beloved lizards.

About the author

My name is Neamul A. Shumon. For over a decade, I’ve been passionately writing about nature and the intriguing world of cold-blooded reptiles. My deep love for nature and fascination with wild animals have driven me to embark on this writing journey.Exploring the wonders of nature has always been a part of who I am. for any quarry you can send an email [email protected] and to know more about me Click Here

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If you have a leopard gecko as a pet, you probably know that they’re typically happiest when left alone in their cozy little homes.

They require such minimal maintenance that they can even handle being left alone for a few days at a time. If you’re planning to go away for a weekend, 2-3 days to itself won’t do your leopard gecko any harm.

But, life happens, and sometimes you’ve got to take your little spotted friend with you, whether it’s simply a visit to the vet or a big move across the country. So, if you find yourself needing to take your leopard gecko along for a ride, you might ask:

How do I travel with a leopard gecko?

Traveling with a leopard gecko involves researching your travel method and planning ahead, allowing your gecko to become familiar with their travel carrier, and paying close attention to their well-being during and after arrival. You’ll want to make sure their travel carrier is safe and secure, and pack essentials like food, water, and heat sources.

In this article, we’ll explore all there is to know about how to travel with a leopard gecko, covering the main modes of transportation. Let’s get started!

How To Transport A Leopard Gecko

Leopard geckos aren’t fond of changes to their environment, and the process of moving them around can be quite stressful for them. Unless there’s no other alternative, it’s best to avoid traveling with your gecko.

However, sometimes traveling with your little buddy is unavoidable, so thankfully, there are a few different ways you can take them along with you.

No matter how you choose to travel – by plane, car, or train – the requirements for taking your leopard gecko along remain the same. It’s all about research, planning, and ensuring that your gecko has a safe and comfortable travel experience.

Here are some things you can do to help transport your leopard gecko successfully:

Step 1: Choose A Travel Carrier

The first and most important thing you’ll need is a sturdy and secure travel carrier that allows for proper ventilation.

Should you choose to use your gecko’s regular enclosure, you’ll want to make a few changes to it first to make it safer for travel.

Remove any loose substrate so it doesn’t slide around and smother your Leo, causing them to accidentally inhale or ingest any of it.

Also, be sure to take out any objects (décor pieces) inside that could move around or fall over. This will help to prevent any accidents or injuries to your gecko while you’re on the move.

However, if you’re able to securely attach a hide, or have a hide that is heavy enough that it will not fall over, it’s good to leave one of those in there for your leo to hide in if they feel stressed.

Alternatively, you can opt for a small travel carrier or container, like the ones you can purchase online for transporting small pets, or even use a large Tupperware container.

Ideally, you want a space small enough that they can move and stretch out a bit but not have enough space that they can tumble around if you make a sharp turn or hit a bump.

It’s also important to make sure that there are enough ventilation holes in the container for your gecko to get air, but you don’t want them to be big enough for your lizard to escape.

For a visual idea of how to pack up and move a leopard gecko, check out this video of someone moving 3 leopard geckos and a crested gecko to their new home!

Step 2: Familiarize Your Gecko With Their Travel Carrier

If using a newly purchased travel carrier or a container your gecko isn’t familiar with, allow them some time to become familiar with the space they’ll be traveling in. You can do this by gradually introducing them to it in the days before your adventure.

Start by placing your gecko inside the carrier for short periods, like a few minutes at a time. As the days go by, gradually increase the time to about 30 minutes or so.

This approach will help your leopard gecko become more comfortable in their new travel setup, minimizing their stress levels during the journey ahead.

Step 3: Secure The Carrier

If traveling by car, you’ll want to make sure you can secure the carrier in your vehicle so it doesn’t move or slide around. If you’re able to, buckle it in using one of your seatbelts.

It’s also a good idea to make sure there are no items above or around the carrier that could fall into or on top of it causing damage to your gecko or its carrier.

Step 4: Line The Bottom

To help stabilize your gecko itself and keep them from sliding around, it’s a good idea to line the bottom of the container with something that provides a good grip.

One option is using a non-toxic shelf liner, which works really well. Another option is to use paper towels or something else that has a textured surface for your gecko’s little feet.

Step 5: Monitor Temps

Depending on the weather and the distance of your trip, you might need to take some measures to control the temperature. It’s important to avoid extreme temperatures below 65 degrees or above 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

If it’s hot outside, you can keep your space cool by running the air conditioning. Make sure not to place the carrier directly under the air conditioning vent, though, because this could quickly cause your gecko to become too cold.

If it’s cold outside, you can keep the temperature comfortable in your car by turning on the heat.

Also, you can use a heating source like a heating pack or hand warmers to provide warmth for your gecko’s carrier, or you can place a towel or blanket over the carrier to keep it insulated and cozy. (Additional tip: this is also a great way to keep flashing lights or outside stimuli from bothering your gecko, helping to keep their stress levels low.)

Step 6: Pack All Of The Essentials

When getting ready to transport your leopard gecko, it’s a good idea to gather all of the necessary items you might need to ensure their well-being along the way.

For shorter trips, you can stick to the basics, but for longer journeys, it’s wise to be prepared for any unexpected situations. Here’s a checklist of what you should bring:

Food and water – Make sure to pack enough of your gecko’s regular food , any needed supplements, and a small dish for water.

Heating sources – Depending on the weather and travel conditions, you might need to pack heating sources such as heating pads or hand warmers to keep your gecko warm.

Thermometer – This will help you to monitor the temperature inside your leopard gecko’s travel carrier and ensure it stays within a comfortable range for your gecko.

Blankets and towels – These items will come in handy when creating a cozy and safe environment for your leo (if you’re covering their carrier to minimize stimulus, keeping them warm, etc.)

Cleaning supplies – It’s always a good idea to have some cleaning supplies and paper towels on hand to maintain cleanliness in your leopard gecko’s travel carrier.

Emergency vet contact – Have the contact information for an emergency reptile veterinarian on hand in case of emergencies or if you have any concerns along the way.

Overnight equipment – If you’ll be staying somewhere overnight, you’ll want to bring additional equipment like a UVB source , a basking lamp, and a hideout to provide a comfortable overnight setup for your gecko.

You may even want to consider using a USB port or cigarette lighter with an adapter to power any necessary electronics while in your car.

By packing these essential items, you’ll be well-prepared for a long trek to keep your leopard gecko as happy and healthy as possible. It’s always better to be over-prepared than under-prepared when it comes to situations like this.

Step 7: Be Mindful Of Stimulus

Think about how certain things like blasting loud music or having the windows down can create unnecessary noise and stimuli that might stress your gecko out even more.

To prevent this, try to keep a calm and peaceful environment by listening to tunes at a reasonable volume and having the windows rolled up.

You can also cover your gecko’s carrier with a blanket or towel to block out flashing lights and any other distractions that could bother your gecko (as mentioned above).

Step 8: Minimize Stops

If you’re able to, it’s best to keep stops to a minimum. The sooner you can reach your destination and get your gecko back into its usual habitat, the happier it will be.

So, try to plan your trip in a way that allows for a smooth journey with as few interruptions as possible. Your gecko will thank you for it!

Step 9: Monitor Your Leo

Don’t forget to check in on your leo from time to time. Keep an eye out for any unusual behavior that might indicate they’re feeling uncomfortable or stressed.

The longer the journey, the more attention you should give to your gecko to make sure they’re still doing ok.

Step 10: Return Your Gecko To Their Habitat Quickly Upon Arrival

Once you arrive at your destination, make it a priority to return your leopard gecko to its familiar habitat as soon as possible. This will help them to settle back into their normal routine and feel more at ease.

Keep a close eye on your leo and watch for any signs of stress or illness in the days that follow. This could look like a dramatic change in behavior, appetite, appearance, or even abnormal urate and feces .

If you notice that something seems to be wrong with your leopard gecko after a few days of arriving, it would be wise to reach out to your nearest reptile veterinarian.

Can You Bring A Leopard Gecko On A Plane?

Unfortunately, when it comes to traveling by air, bringing your leopard gecko on the plane alongside you is not an option as all airlines prohibit reptiles from traveling in the cabin.

However, there are some “lizard-friendly” airlines that do allow nonvenomous reptiles to be shipped as cargo, as long as they meet specific guidelines. This means your pet gecko might be able to fly with you in the belly of the plane if you coordinate your travel that way.

When transporting your leopard gecko via airline cargo, many of the safety requirements are the same as they would be if traveling by car.

In fact, the International Air Transport Association (IATA) has put together a set of rules for all airlines that ensures pets have a comfortable and safe journey on any flight. These guidelines address important aspects like food and water, carrier size, temperature requirements, and more.

Ultimately, if the airline believes your pet could be at risk, they won’t allow them to fly.

It’s also important to note that different airlines have different rules based on their routes, aircraft type, and number of pets allowed in their cargo space. That’s why it’s always a good idea to give your airline of choice a call and check the rules before attempting to fly with your leo.

To help get you started, some airlines that currently allow nonvenomous lizards in cargo are: American Airlines , Air Canada , Aegean Air , Air Europa , Alaska Air , Finnair (uses third party) , and WestJet .

You can find more information about each airline’s rules and regulations around transporting pets in cargo by clicking on the links provided.

Can You Bring A Leopard Gecko On A Train?

Like airlines, most train companies don’t allow live reptiles to travel onboard with their owners.

However, since there are so many different train services in various parts of the world, there may be some that do. It would be a good idea to contact your local train company in advance of your trip to inquire about traveling with your leopard gecko.

Final Thoughts

With a little preparation, traveling with your leopard gecko can be a smooth and relatively stress-free experience.

Just take the time to do some research, prepare the necessary supplies, and pack essential items for the journey ahead. Once you arrive at your destination, monitor your gecko for a few days to make sure they’re settling back in ok.

With these simple steps, and by following the recommendations given in this article, you should be all set for a safe and successful adventure with your scaly friend.

Safe travels!

About The Author

Stephanie Barreto

Leopard Gecko Care Sheet: New Owner’s Guide

As any fan of reptiles knows, the leopard gecko’s adorable grin draws people in, making this delightful creature popular among people of all ages and experience levels in reptile care.

This perky little lizard is an excellent beginner’s lizard (opens in new tab), since they are generally docile, easy to tame, have minimal care requirements, and don’t require a huge budget . 

Leopard Geckos, also known as Leos, also make GREAT pets for more experienced reptile owners who are interested in breeding unusual color morphs and patterns ! 

Compared to other lizards, they’re also a bit different from their counterparts among their own class (more on this later).

What You’ll Learn In This Leopard Gecko Care Sheet:

• Background information on Leopard Geckos.
• Best place to buy a healthy Leopard Gecko (plus what to look for!)
• Relative cost of a Leopard Gecko (including rare morphs)
• Proper diet for all ages
• How to properly set up a Leopard Gecko enclosure
• Health concerns to be aware of (plus how to prevent them!)
• Expert handling & bonding tips
• & So much more!

Whether you’re experienced in reptile care, or if a leopard gecko will be your first reptilian pet, this in-depth care guide is packed full of helpful tips to ensure your lizard companion is happy , healthy for years to come .

In This Article

Leopard Gecko Background Information

Leopard Geckos are small, ground-dwelling lizards that hail from the Middle East and India. These lizards are typically found in rocky, grassland, and desert areas.

They are naturally nocturnal, but while in captivity, they generally abandon their true nocturnal behavior and become more active during the day, but still continue the height of their activities overnight.

Leopard geckos generally do not bite and are slow-moving , which makes them an ideal pet for the beginner reptile enthusiast.

⭐️ Fun Fact: Did you know? Leopard Geckos can be vocal lizards , especially when they are hungry, making a variety of chirps and squeaks. You can see these noises for yourself here . How cute!

Compared to other lizards, leopard geckos require minimal care, and with proper husbandry, they can live for an average of 6 to 10 years . However, male geckos commonly live 10 to 20 years, while the oldest known leopard gecko reached 27 years of age!

Leopard geckos are commonly a mixture of yellow and white and are spotted with black dots. Hatchlings are striped and gradually change from stripes to spots.

While not as colorful as some reptiles, leopard geckos can appear in a few different patterned morphs or variations . Certain colors are more desired and valuable (for example, Albino leopard gecko ), while the normal coloration found in the wild is readily available and most affordable. 

Besides coming in a variety of color morphs, leopard geckos can derive from bloodlines that grant a larger size . In fact, if a male leopard gecko comes from a giant bloodline, he may reach nearly a foot in length at maturity! 

Normally, hatchlings measure 3 to 4 inches long, while adult females are 7 to 8 inches, and males are 8 to 10 inches.

On average, these geckos can range in cost from as little as to over 0 for the rare and highly desirable color morphs.

Initial startup costs for a Leopard Gecko habitat  with all the furnishings will run you around $200, since these are small lizards and don’t require much space.

In total, leopard geckos make the ideal pet for someone who is just beginning to venture into reptile care , as normal color morphs are easy to find and very budget-friendly.

🔑 Leopard Gecko Background Key Takeaways: Leopard geckos make great pets for both beginner and expert lizard owners alike. Generally docile, these easy-to-care for lizards can  live to be between 6 and 10 years in captivity. Costs tend to be affordable , with the bulk of the investment being upfront to purchase the lizard and set up their habitat. 

Where to Buy a Leopard Gecko & What to Look for

As one of the most popular reptilian pets, leopard geckos are readily available at pet stores, but it’s always best to purchase geckos from a reputable breeder.

Either search online for a leopard gecko with excellent reviews, clear policies, and healthy animals, or visit a local reptile expo to view a variety of geckos for sale in-person. 

When choosing your new leopard gecko, look closely at the tail since it can be a key indicator of overall health.

Ideally, your new Leopard Gecko should…

• Have a tail that is plump and fat, preferably as wide or wider than the space between the gecko’s shoulders
• Have eyes, nose, and mouth that appear clear, with no visible discharge.
• Have a vent (an opening for urinating and defecating) that appears clean and not swollen.

Captive-bred leopard geckos can be found in pet stores, at reptile shows , and online through breeder websites.

On breeder websites, you can learn about the geckos they have available for purchase, and peruse their stock, looking for the perfect addition to your home.

Breeders also offer much more unique and wider color morph variations than what you can find at pet stores. However, these rare color morphs can cost you well over 0.

If you’re just starting out and aren’t interested in getting a fancy morph, then a high-quality, well-cared for pet with the typical color pattern for leopard geckos will cost around $20 to $30.

Wherever you choose to purchase your leopard gecko, check your new pet over carefully for any signs of health issues first.

While it may be tempting to rescue the sickly lizard and attempt to nurse it back to health, you may be left with heartbreak and hefty veterinary bills.

Instead, choose the healthiest gecko you can find from a reputable source and you will have an entertaining companion for many years to come.

🔑 Leopard Gecko Purchasing Key Takeaways: When it comes to purchasing a Leopard Gecko, you’ll have the option of going to a pet store or locating a reputable breeder (recommended). When choosing a Leo, you can ensure it’s healthy by looking for 1) a tail that plump and fat, 2) no visible discharge around eyes, nose, or mouth regions, and 3) a vent that is clean and isn’t swollen.

Leopard Gecko Diet and Feeding Guidelines

Leopard geckos are insectivores who thrive on a diet consisting of crickets, waxworms, mealworms, and superworms.

Waxworms are high in fat, so they should only be fed as a treat, while the main diet should mostly consist of gut-loaded and dusted crickets (more on this soon).

If you’re breeding geckos, you can feed a breeding female a tiny pinky mouse for additional calories and fat, but these food items are best avoided in pet geckos, since they can rapidly become obese if fed too many. 

When feeding your leopard gecko, place your pet in an empty tank. These lizards are prone to snatching up their substrate, particularly sand, if fed in their usual habitat. For this reason, sand is best avoided in your gecko’s enclosure to prevent an impaction. 

Depending on the age and the size of your leopard gecko, you may expect to spend anywhere from $15 to $30 per month to feed your pet a variety of crickets, worms, and appropriate supplements.

Components of a Leopard Gecko Diet

Although you know leopard geckos do well on a diet of crickets, ensure the insects are gut-loaded prior to feeding your lizard.

Essentially, this means the crickets or worms you feed must be fed a nutritious meal 24 hours before feeding to your leopard gecko, so your pet can obtain these nutrients as well.

Before offering your leopard gecko a meal, you will also need to coat the insects with a calcium and vitamin D3 supplement. This technique of coating insects is often referred to as “dusting”.

To do so, put the crickets or worms in a ziplock bag with some of the powder supplement. Shake the bag quickly to coat, then drop the insects into the tank with your lizard.

⭐️ Dusting vs Gut Loading Simplified: Dusting quite literally refers to the act of coating a feeder insect’s body with calcium or a multi-vitamin powder of your choosing and then feeding it directly to your pet reptile. In contrast, gut-loading refers to feeding the insects various nutrients that temporarily fill their gastrointestinal tract. These insects are then fed to your pet who ultimately ingests the nourishing mixture.

Hatchlings and juveniles need the calcium and vitamin supplement at every feeding, whereas adults only need it at every other feeding.

In addition to dusting your lizard’s food with a calcium and vitamin D3 supplement, keep a small dish full of a calcium supplement (with or without the vitamin D3 supplement).

This ensures that they have their calcium needs met to help stave off a variety of health issues that lead to weight loss and bone damage.

Leopard Gecko Diet Based on Age

As your leopard gecko grows, it can tackle larger prey, and eat more food items at once. A general rule of thumb for feeding your leopard gecko is to offer two appropriately sized insects per inch of lizard length.

For example, a 6-inch long gecko should be offered 12 crickets per feeding. To choose appropriately sized insects for your lizard, choose food items that are no longer than the length of your gecko’s head. 

How Often to Feed Your Leopard Gecko

Babies .

Juvenile leopard geckos need to be fed several crickets every day. When your gecko is a baby, allow your pet to eat as much as it is able to in a span of 10 minutes every day . As your gecko becomes older, you can stretch out feedings to every other day.

Adults 

If necessary, adult leopard geckos can skip several days between feedings , but most gecko owners offer a meal every other day.

Be sure to remove the uneaten crickets after 10 to 15 minutes , or place your gecko back in the regular habitat to help keep the enclosure clean and to prevent the crickets from pestering your gecko.

🔑 Leopard Gecko Diet Key Takeaways: Leos are insectivores which means their diet consists of a mixture of succulent worms and crickets. Remember to gut-load and dust your feeder insects with calcium and vitamin supplements. Offer two appropriately sized insects per inch of lizard length and change their feeding frequency as they age. Lastly, always choose food items that are no longer than the length of your gecko’s head. 

Leopard Gecko Habitat and Tank Setup

Size of the Enclosure

Unlike some other reptile species, leopard geckos can be housed together. Fighting and other poor behavior among leopard geckos is uncommon, unless males are housed together.

To prevent injury between your pets, avoid housing male leopard geckos together. 

General rules for housing leopard geckos are as follows:

• A 10-gallon enclosure is sufficient for babies , while an adult needs 20 gallons. Too large of an enclosure can make your leopard gecko stressed, so increase the habitat size as your lizard grows.
• A 15- 20-gallon tank can be large enough for two adult leopard geckos, but there should only be one male per habitat. 
• Ideally add 10 gallons to your tank size for each adult gecko. For example, three adult geckos—two females and one male—should have a 30-gallon enclosure.  
• Be warned that when housing male and female geckos together you can soon have babies on your hand. In fact, you can have up to six egg clutches per year, so you may be quickly overrun with babies if you don’t sell them!

Keep in mind that it is also a good idea to have a separate enclosure in which to feed your leopard gecko.

These little lizards are prone to gulping down substrate along with their meal , which can potentially cause an impaction.

Once your pet is done eating, simply place your gecko back in the regular enclosure.

Type of Enclosures 

As with most reptiles, one of the most popular enclosures are glass aquariums. You can easily find old aquariums that leak so fish owners are selling them for cheap, and glass aquariums make ideal leopard gecko habitats.

Alternatively, you can DIY and build your own enclosure using wood-framed enclosures with glass or plastic doors that allow easy access.

Whatever enclosure type you choose, be sure to use a screen top, which will help keep your gecko’s habitat at the ideal humidity level by allowing evaporation.

Ideal Temperature Gradient

Since leopard geckos originate from desert areas in the Middle East, they thrive best in a warm, dry climate.

An ideal daytime basking spot of 88 to 92 degrees Fahrenheit can be produced by an under tank heat mat.

Avoid using heat lamps, since they can cause burns and vision problems to the leopard gecko’s sensitive eyes. 

Allow the thermal gradient to shift down to about 75 degrees on the cool side of the enclosure, with nighttime temperatures dropping down to 70 to 75 degrees.

By using an under tank heat mat with a thermostat, you can ensure the ambient temperature remains above 70 degrees, with a toasty-warm hot spot of 88 to 92 degrees.

Ideal Humidity Levels

These lizards are a desert lizard, so they do not need an overly humid environment like amphibians.

However, if the humidity level is too low—below 20%—your leopard gecko may have trouble shedding its skin.

An ideal humidity level falls between 30% and 40%, which is similar to the humidity level in your home.

Since the humidity level is similar, a screen top on your pet’s enclosure, paired with a heat source, should keep the environment relatively dry.

Be sure to monitor the habitat with a hygrometer , and make humidity adjustments as needed. 

⭐️ Pro Tip: One key tip to remember about caring for your leopard gecko is to ensure you provide a moist hide. This hide allows your lizard to safely and smoothly shed its skin. Discover exactly how to properly do this and more by reading below!

To Create a Moist Hide…

• Purchase or make a cave-style hide
• Place moisture-retaining substrate inside. Substrate options include paper towel, soil, coco hummus, or vermiculite, but the most popular choices are sphagnum or peat moss.
• Dampen the substrate to allow for easy skin-shedding, but avoid over-saturating it so that mold does not occur.
• Switch out the substrate occasionally to prevent bacteria from forming.

In this moist hide, keep the humidity level between 20% and 40%. A higher humidity level may cause your leopard gecko to develop a bacterial infection.

Lighting Requirements

Being nocturnal, leopard geckos are most active at night and do not require a lot of UV lighting.

In the wild, they typically get their UV lighting requirements from the minimal sunlight around dawn and sunset. A small amount of UVA and UVB lighting will go a long way to keeping your pet healthy. 

Your leopard gecko will need incandescent lighting to mimic natural sunlight. During the summer, provide 14 hours of light per day, then decrease to a 12-hour day in the winter.

If your under tank heater does not provide enough warmth to meet the basking temperature requirement, you can use a heat lamp to provide both a basking area and light. However, since leopard geckos are nocturnal, you may need to use an infrared heat lamp to provide proper heat without disturbing natural behavior.

Substrate 

Leopard geckos are prone to eating sand when catching their meals , so they shouldn’t be kept on a sand substrate, unless you feed your pet in a separate enclosure.

You can play it safe and completely eliminate sand and other loose substrates from your lizard’s habitat , since sand ingestion can lead to an intestinal blockage, which can require surgery to remove.

Also, be sure to avoid wood shaving for your gecko’s habitat, since the oils found in shavings can be irritating. 

Suitable substrate options include:

• Paper towels and newspaper. Both are  absorbent and easy to change, minimizing the chance for bacterial contamination.
• Non-adhesive shelf liners.  Provides an affordable and easy to maintain option that will last longer than paper towels or newspaper.
• Tile floors. If you can get the tiles cut to fit the enclosure, this is by far the best long term substrate option in terms of cleanliness and durability.
• Bioactive soil. Bioactive soil combines multiple substrates and even bugs to create something similar to what they’d find in their natural habitat.
• And many more!

Spot clean the cage once a day to remove feces , then deep-clean the entire enclosure once monthly. Disinfect the cage and accessories, and replace the substrate with fresh material. 

Decor and Accessories 

To keep your leopard gecko happy and healthy, it is recommended to have three separate hides in the enclosure —a hot hide, a cool hide, and a moist hide.

I. The hot hide. The hot hide allows a place for your lizard to retreat to digest its food, or to relax and soak up the warmth on the higher end of the temperature gradient.

II. The cool hide. While the cool hide is not crucial, it is nice to offer a place for your lizard to seek shelter and cool down if needed.

III. The moist hide. A moist hide can double as a cool hide, since if you place your moist hide on the hot side of your enclosure, the moisture will evaporate in the high heat. The moist hide should always be placed at the lowest end of the tank’s temperature gradient and outfitted with moisture-retaining substrate to promote easy shedding.

Plants and Rocks

While your leopard gecko’s hides provide most of the necessary security needed for resting and shedding skin, live or artificial plants also offer important opportunities to hide.

Since leopard geckos don’t eat plants , live plants should be safe with your lizard, but they can raise the humidity level, plus they’re messier to clean around. Artificial plants provide a great alternative, and beautiful greenery to your pet’s enclosure.

Rocks and logs also offer fun activities and the opportunity for exercise for your leopard gecko.

Ensure these objects aren’t too tall and have no sharp edges, since your lizard can’t climb well without sticky foot pads. 

🔑 Leopard Gecko Enclosure Key Takeaways: Leopard Geckos don’t need large habitats and can do just fine in a 20-gallon tank (for adult Leos). When it comes to temperature and humidity, the ideal gradient includes a daytime basking spot of 88-92 degrees Fahrenheit which shifts down to about 75 degrees on the cool side and humidity between 30-40% . Lastly, always include elements for enrichment and three separate hides -a hot hide, a cool hide, and a moist hide to help with shedding.

Leopard Gecko General Health Information 

Metabolic Bone Disease

One of the most severe conditions that can affect leopard geckos is metabolic bone disease. Just like humans, geckos become ill if they don’t get enough calcium and vitamin D in their diets.

Similar to Bearded Dragons , Metabolic bone disease (MBD) causes painful spine and limb deformities.

Signs of MBD in leopard geckos includes:

• Slow movement
• Progressive weight loss due to spongy jaw and inability to eat

This disease can be corrected with vitamin D injections and administration of liquid calcium. A long-term treatment plan includes appropriate calcium and vitamin D3 supplementation.

Like other lizards, leopard geckos that are undernourished or live in a cage with insufficient moisture may develop dysecdysis .

Dysecdysis, which looks like dry skin, causes the gecko to have difficulty shedding and can affect its vision. With too-low humidity levels, cool temperatures, and lack of available furniture to rub against, your gecko may retain patches of skin.

If the eyelid skin is retained, your pet can have vision issues. The tip of the tail and the fingers can necrose and die if the skin fails to shed and restricts blood flow. 

If you notice your leopard gecko having issues shedding—this process should be completed in one to two hours—place your lizard in a shallow dish of water to increase moisture.

Check out our leopard gecko shedding guide for more information on the process and how you can help your pet.

Intestinal Impaction

Leopard geckos can commonly suffer from an intestinal impaction if they are kept on improper substrate, such as sand or small gravel.

These lizards may eat their substrate if their diet is deficient in calcium, their food is placed on improper substrate, or they are learning about their environment and accidentally eat sand or gravel. 

Signs of impaction in your leopard gecko include:

• Swollen stomach
• Constipation
• Lack of appetite

If you suspect your gecko is suffering from an impaction, your veterinarian can take an X-ray to determine if something is indeed stuck, and then provide instructions or assistance in removing the blockage.

The most common health issues in leopard geckos are caused by improper temperature and humidity levels, and inadequate nutrition from a poor diet.

At the first hint of illness, closely examine your husbandry habits for any issues. 

🔑 Leopard Gecko General Health Key Takeaways: Like all reptile species, Leopard Geckos are susceptible to a variety of health concerns. Fortunately, you can help prevent them from suffering from a weakened immune system and becoming sick by ensuring their diet and habitat are on point.

Leopard Gecko Handling and Bonding Tips

When you first bring home your leopard gecko, give them a few weeks to settle in .

They will typically tolerate a certain amount of contact, but don’t overdo it, or your leopard gecko may become stressed , especially at the beginning of your relationship. They are almost as hard (or better not at all) to handle as Tokay Geckos or Giant Day Geckos .

If threatened, your gecko will naturally amputate its tail, so a slow taming and bonding process is best . The new tail will begin to grow in a few days, taking about three to four months to fully regrow. However, the new tail might not be as nice as the previous tail.

Always handle your leopard gecko with care and avoid grabbing it by the tail. Support the lizard’s entire weight by placing your hand or arm under the belly. 

Leopard geckos make ideal pets for beginners and are great lizards to introduce people to reptiles, as they are slow-moving and rarely bite. Plus, their adorable grins and cute chirps are particularly endearing!

🔑 Leopard Gecko Handling & Bonding Takeaways: Don’t be surprised if initially your new Leo acts shy and aloof. Give your Leo time to settle in to their habitat before handling them. Remember, any extreme stress will cause them to drop their tails. With a little time and patience, not to mention the right techniques (see above) you and your pet will surely form a close bond that will last decades!

Is a Leopard Gecko Right for YOU ?

If you’re in the market for an easy to care for reptile with a perky personality, look no further than the leopard gecko.

These cute little lizards are excellent beginner pets, and also make ideal companions for breeding reptile enthusiasts to produce rare color morphs.

It is my hope that this care sheet has given you the knowledge and confidence to properly care for your new Leopard Gecko. 

Over time, your leopard gecko will bond with you and greet you with a series of chirps and squeaks, grinning up at you for attention and a meal. Their quirky smiles will make you burst into a laugh!

If you’re looking for a new reptile to welcome into your home, you simply can’t go wrong with a leopard gecko.

If you are looking for some inspiration to name your new baby, check out the leopard gecko naming guide here! 

for the gecko enthusiast in YOU!

Going on Vacation With (and Without) Your Geckos

As much as we love our home and our pets, sometimes we just need to get away.  Whether you own a single gecko or have a large, multi-species collection, plans must be in place for care and feeding of your pets while you’re gone.

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When considering care for geckos, the most important thing to remember is that reptiles are not mammals.  They don’t require the same amount of calories and  frequency of intake that mammals need because reptiles don’t burn calories to maintain a specific body temperature.  Adult reptiles are rarely fed every day and can survive for longer without food than their mammalian counterparts.  There are 3 aspects of care to consider for all geckos:  food, hydration and habitat management.  Many older juveniles and adult geckos can go without food for 10 days to 2 weeks, though this is not ideal under normal circumstances.  All geckos require more consistent hydration.  Geckos that have humidity, temperature and lighting needs that differ significantly from the “outside” environment will easily become stressed if these conditions are not maintained.  Babies and hatchlings are more delicate and require more frequent and precise feeding, hydration and habitat management.

Taking Your Gecko With You

Some people choose to bring their geckos with them when they go away.  This is not recommended for geckos that can’t be handled, those who are very sensitive to changes in their environment or for short, weekend vacations.  Obviously, it would be difficult and impractical to transport large collections.  Most public transportation systems such as airlines or trains won’t permit live reptiles to be transported and sneaking your reptile on the airplane would be a very poor choice.  If you’re going away for a week or more and will be in a single location during this time, pack up the gecko the same way vendors do when taking their reptiles to a show: place the gecko in a deli cup with holes punched, put the cup in a secure place and transport the cage separately.  This will insure that the gecko isn’t harmed by falling items in its regular enclosure if there’s a sudden stop or an accident.  The gecko will be fine if its exact temperature requirements aren’t met temporarily although running the air conditioning in the car will probably not be appreciated.  Many people have been known to transport their geckos this way if they are going away for the summer or during long college vacations.  I even heard of one person who drove from northeastern United States to Florida with a reptile incubator plugged into her cigarette lighter, though this is a little extreme.  On arrival at the vacation destination, set up the gecko’s enclosure and return the gecko to it.  If the trip will take several days, the gecko can either spend one night in the deli cup (I do this with my geckos when I take them to shows that are a distance away) or can be put into its enclosure overnight.  It’s best not to feed geckos who are going to travel.  Although many will do well, some do regurgitate (maybe they get carsick!).

Leaving Your Gecko at Home

If the gecko or geckos will be left home when you travel, some care will have to be arranged.  As a general rule, most geckos can survive without any intervention for one or two days.  If you plan to be away for a weekend, it’s probably safe to leave your gecko alone, though it’s always a good idea to have someone available in case there’s a  household emergency such as a power outage that will impact the geckos. For longer absences, there are a variety of choices for gecko care:

— the “kennel” approach:   some pet stores, pet sitters or other animal facilities will board your gecko for a daily fee.  The advantage to this solution is that there is experienced personnel on site for extended periods of time and, if you’ve chosen wisely, quality care.  The disadvantages are that it’s expensive and there’s no way to insure that quarantine from other reptiles on the premises will be carried out to your standards.  If you have a friend who’s knowledgeable about geckos and is willing to house your pet while you’re gone (and quarantine it appropriately from any reptile he or she may own), you may be able to overcome all the disadvantages.  I had a very positive experience caring for a pair of leopard geckos that needed medication for several weeks, after responding to a request on craigslist (I don’t recommend this method, but it did work out for me and the gecko owner).

— limited care in the home : For medium length vacations of 1-2 weeks, your gecko can survive without food, though this is not ideal.  Your gecko should do well if there is someone who can come in every day or so, provide water and check to make sure the heat is working adequately.  The “gecko checker” should be comfortable opening the cages and filling water bowls or misting, if necessary.  He or she should have contact information for the gecko owner or other knowledgeable person and should be told what to do in case of emergency such as a power outage, flood or fire.  Back in the days when I had only 1 leopard gecko, my house-sitter agreed to provide water for her when I had to take a 10 day trip across the country.  Although she wasn’t fed during my absence, she was fine when I got back (that was 6 years ago and I still have her) with no obvious weight loss.

— experienced care giver : This alternative is essential for those who have large collections, geckos with special or specific needs, eggs due to hatch or hatchlings.  An experienced gecko caregiver can be paid to come into your home every few days (or daily if you prefer) to provide the care that your collection requires.  The care giver can be a professional pet sitter, a fellow herper, or even someone that you have trained.  It’s essential that you prepare thoroughly.  Cages should be labeled with species and names if appropriate.  Food, including feeders and supplements should be labeled as well.  Provide detailed, written instructions about exactly what you want done with each gecko.  As in the case of the “limited care” described above, be sure to provide written suggestions for how to proceed in case of an emergency and contact information.  If your geckos are under the care of a reptile vet, provide this information as well.  I have found this method to be very successful.  I have a friend who is comfortable and experienced with animal care.  She comes in every 2-3 days on the rare occasions when I go on vacation and provides care according to my written specifications.  She has also checked my incubator for eggs and moved new hatchlings to their enclosures which I had prepared ahead of time.  I’ll never forget her text message to me about a newly hatched leopard gecko that looked different from all the other ones she’d ever seen.  My first super snow!

Going on vacation with or without your gecko is a balancing act.  When deciding how to deal with the situation, you need to weigh your needs and resources against the degree of stress put on your gecko by changes in its habitual routine.  Remember, as you consider all the factors, that both you and your pet are capable of being flexible!

care collection gecko heat trip vacation

What do you think?

Written by Aliza

Aliza is a home care speech therapist living in the Boston area. She successfully bred a variety of gecko species between 2005 and 2017. She currently cares for a large number of geckos as well as a few frogs and bearded dragons. Other interests which she pursues in her copious free time include work in ceramics, practicing aikido and surfing the internet.

91 Comments

Me and my husband just got a white lined gecko. We are about to leave for vacation for a week or two. Now we have heard we can put live crickets in there jus enough for him to eat hes an adult so. We have a humidifier n we have both that and the lamp for his heat set at certian times for it to come on so sofar its been working good he wont eat the dry or dead meal worms n crickets so should we jus put enough crickets in there for if he gets hungry he can get them. The crickets like to hide up top where there is a crease between top on tank near lamp you think he will be fine? If were only gone for a week or two. Is there anything specific we should do to make sure hes good. Or ok while we are gone

My get go got out and we can not find him, he is in the house somewhere. Any ideals on how to find him and how long will it live without food

Read this article in Gecko Time: http://geckotime.com/finding-an-escaped-gecko/

Some can go for months because they find bugs in the house.

Hi Aliza…

Just wanna ask,is it stressing the gecko when we bring it to travel….?? Its now 3 months old…more less,but if I left it in my house(no one is in my house during that time) what should I do? Put many mealworms? AND IT JUST ARRIVED IN MY HOUSE YESTERDAY..

Should I bring… OR Should I left…. ???????

Thank you..:-)

If there’s no one to take care of it while you’re gone, and you’re going away for more than a weekend, you will need to bring it with you unless you can bring it to someone else’s house while you’re gone. Hopefully you’re going to a single vacation spot where you will be staying. If that’s the case, travel with the gecko in a deli cup and set up its home when you get to your destination. If you’re going to be on the road for awhile with many stops, please find a friend to care for it or a pet store where you can board it.

If you are going on vacation do not leave a lot of crickets in with your gecko This is because the crickets will get hungry and can possibly eat the geckos eyes or tail off which could get infected and this will be harmful to the gecko or possibly kill the gecko So whatever you do, do not just put a bunch of crickets in the turrarium with the gecko if you go away. Thank you for reading

I just bought a leopard gecko Saturday a baby. He won’t eat.He has blue on his stomach was thwre when I bought it. I heard it was impacted? I’ve tried warm baths and stomach massages and he still doesn’t eat. And when I try and give him the meal worm or crickets he backs away or kinda lays down?

The blue may just be some of its internal organs. It’s not unusual for a new gecko not to eat for awhile. For now, leave it alone and just keep providing the food. Check back in a week if it’s not eating after that.

I have had my babies for about 2 years. I am actually moving to Japan in 6-7 years and I want them to go with me. But I’m worried that flying isn’t the best option. Any recommendations?

A lot of things can happen in 6-7 years with your babies, with flying laws and all sorts of stuff. I recommend that when the times gets closer, you investigate the laws about what you’re allowed to take with you and look at your options then. Remember, that every time a gecko is shipped from one place to another, it goes on a plane.

Hi Aliza! I will be getting an AFT about 4 months old, still considered young.

About once or twice a month, I’ll drive to visit family who live 2 hours away from town. I am wondering if she can come with me so I can feed her every day and provide fresh water? I would be stationary at home.

I would recommend you time it so you give your AFT a chance to settle in before you travel with her. If you’re going for a weekend or so, you can really leave food and water for her and she’ll be fine. If you really want to take her with you, get a small carry container, small enough so she won’t slide around in it too much, for transport. Set up a cage for her with your family so she can transfer to a “permanent” enclosure while she’s there. In general, she’ll probably do better staying at home.

Hi!! I have had this adult leopard gecko, and i took her in the car with me for the day, and i think she is having a carsick… she didn’t vomit, but she is sleeping non stop for few hours already, and i am worried because she might be stressed

She may be less active because she got stressed, or even because she got cold and it slowed her down. Try not to worry about it. Leave her alone and give her some time to relax. Stress isn’t the worst thing in the world and eventually she’ll get over it.

Hello! I was wondering if it is okay to take my gecko around with me on my shoulder for the day. One of my friends brings his bearded dragon around and just puts her on his shoulder. I was wondering if it is okay to do that with a gecko. Mine is about a year and a half old and is sometimes a bit sensitive but other that that, he’s fine.

I’ve had leopard geckos that have been comfortable on my shoulder. Remember, though, that it’s easier to feel a beardie getting restless than a leo so you have to be really aware of when it’s had enough.

I will be going on a four day vacation and I am pretty sure I’m going to take my gecko with me, but the trip to the hotel is about 4 1/2 hours will she be okay?

Get a deli cup or other small plastic container. Put your gecko in there for the trip and bring along a set-up for the gecko while you’re on vacation (don’t drive with the gecko in the cage; it will slide around too much). If you stop for a meal, don’t leave your gecko in the car because it will get too hot. Get a canvas bag, put the deli cup in the bag and bring it into the restaurant. Don’t make a big production about having a gecko in the bag. There’s no reason for anyone to know what’s in there. Enjoy your trip.

Hi there, I am moving away and I will be taking a three and a half hour plane ride and I really want to take my leopard gecko with me. I have no idea how old he is but I’ve owned him for about 5 years now. I’m really worried about him getting too stressed out on the plane as the company says he will have to be put in the cargo area I’m just worried he could stress to the point of passing away. Will he survive ?

There are 2 ways you can get the gecko to your new destination: 1. check out “Delta Dash” which is an air service that will transport your gecko to an airport near you. 2. package up your gecko and mail it to the FedEx hub nearest you and have them hold it for you In either case, check out http://www.shipyourreptiles.com for instructions about how to package up your gecko for shipment. If you follow those directions, you may even be able to send your gecko along with you in the cargo hold (the gecko will be traveling in the cargo hold for both of the two options above and next day air shipment of geckos is very common and safe).

I’m going on a 10 day vacation tomorrow and I’m leaving my leopard gecko at home with no one coming to take care of him. I just bought him 15 large crickets so he won’t be hungry while I’m gone. I’m not sure if I should leave the heat lamp on the entire trip or keep it off. Also, will he be fine with not having the water cleaned/changed daily? And can you tell me more about what misting is? My brother gave him to me late last year and he wasn’t very good with handling Raj (my lizard). Can you give me some advice on how to start actually holding him? He’s tried to bite my finger once and I’m afraid he might do it again. Thank you. It’d be helpful if you replied tonight, because I’m leaving tomorrow. 🙂

The food isn’t as important as the water. Leaving the crickets is fine. Can you possibly get someone to re-fill the water bowl every few days? It doesn’t have to be daily. Ideally you should be using an under tank heater as opposed to a heat lamp because the heat lamp will dry out the air a lot, but that’s for another day when you’re not leaving. Misting: this means spraying the cage with water. You don’t need to do that with a leopard gecko, so don’t worry about it. Handling: When you get back from vacation, talk to him every time you feed him. Let him see that you’re the one feeding him. See if he’ll let you put your hand near him. If you can, eventually, slide your hand under him and lift him gently, supporting his body. Just hold him a few inches above the cage floor and then put him down. When that seems to be working well (after a couple of times), try making a little cave for him out of your hands when you pick him up and lift him to the top of the cage. Good luck and enjoy your vacation.

No :/ I’ve tried asking a few people I trust but most of them are in vacation. I know that the water won’t dry out, but he likes to walk in the bowl sometimes so it gets dirty fast. Another question, ive heard other owners say they bathe theirs? How is this supposed to be done and is it required? I’m trying to be a good caretaker. Thank you.

He’ll be OK. They’re desert animals so don’t need bathing unless they have stuck shed. If you need more info about taking care of the gecko, read some of the articles on this site (www.geckotime.com/archives – check out the list of articles that have been written) or read my personal care sheet: https://geckcessories.wordpress.com/leopard-gecko-care-sheet/

This is a tough spot to be in! Luckily I have a friend/business partner that can keep everything taken care of for me when I leave. There should be another article on here about what to do with a collection during a storm since a lot of people had to learn this the hard way with the hurricane we just had.

Hi, I am wanting to get a Crested Gecko, i travel just about once every month for work and will be gone each time for a week. Will my gecko be okay if i leave it for a week? Or is it absolutely needed for it to have someone mist/water it. I would like to take it with me at least sometime, the drive is 9 hours, will it be okay that long of a car ride in the container?

It can probably survive without being misted for a week (especially if there are live plants to hold the humidity and a water bowl) but it would be best to get someone in halfway through the week to mist, in my opinion.

You could also consider getting an automatic, programmable mist system (e.g. mistking.com)

Hello Aliza. Your advice and tips are wonderful! Thank you for spending time responding to our many questions. My daughter purchased a gecko yesterday, and in our excitement forgot about leaving for a couple of days for the holiday. I am unclear about the lighting. Do we leave the black night light on, or the daylight on, or nothing on. ??

Why kind of gecko did she get? Is the light the only source of heat? If she got a leopard gecko, they don’t really need light at all as long as they are getting heat from the bottom of the enclosure and there is ambient light in the room. In any case, it’s easy to get a timer for the lights if you feel the gecko needs them.

I have a young African Fat Tail Gecko (not sure of the exact age) and I will be leaving for a 4 day trip. I am trying to make things as simple as I can for the neighbor who has agreed to take care of her while I am gone. I will ask her to mist the cage and change the water daily, but my question is about lighting. I have an under tank heater, and I switch between a white light during the day and a black light at night. Do I need to have her switch lights, or would it be okay to just have one or the other while I’m gone?

If you don’t have the lights on the timer, just turn them both off as long as there is some ambient light in the room. Otherwise, you could have the neighbor turn the white light on and off. Unless there are live plants in the enclosure, the gecko doesn’t really need the lights at all and certainly doesn’t need the black light.

Hi, I am going on vacation for 5 days and I was wondering if leaving my gecko with mealworms, a water reservoir, under tank heat mat plus the vitamin D on a dish would be enough for those days? I have no one to look over him and Im really worried. Also, in terms of its poop. Will leaving the poop in the cage for a few days be an issue of bacteria? All of this gets me worried.

I would highly appreciate your thoughts on this. Thank you.

5 days is probably the longest period that works adequately. I’ve had to do it a few times this year. Usually I get someone to check in once and mist the tropical geckos (I have a lot of geckos), but once this winter the person forgot to do it and everyone was fine. Geckos can easily go quite awhile without food. Be sure you have a deep enough water dish so it doesn’t dry up (and even if it does, it probably won’t be till the last day or so). The poop is fine in the cage for that amount of time. Enjoy your vacation.

Thank you so much Aliza. Also, for the quick response. Very helpful. Thanks again.

I’m planning on getting a Crested Gecko, but I need to set up a travel plan first. I have a 1-week vacation every six weeks, and I have no clue what to do with it. I’m not sure I will be able to take it with me, or if somebody could keep an eye on it. I know all they need is a gecko-smoothie, so is there a way I could create a week’s worth and leave it in the tank? Will misting be a problem for 1 week? Or is there some sort of 5-gal travel tank I can bring (I have a 10-gal)?

Do you go away for the whole week every time? Do you go to the same place? How do you get there? I have left my geckos for a maximum of 5 days. The crested geckos did fine without being misted in that time (I misted them well right before I left). If you could get someone to mist even once in a week long period, it would probably be fine. If you go to the same place and could have an enclosure for him there, and if you drive, or take a bus or train to where you’re going, you could put the gecko in a deli cup, and then put it in the “vacation enclosure” when you arrive. If you’re planning to get a very young one, by the way, a 10 gallon will be fine, but you’ll need something bigger for an adult (though a 10 gallon at the vacation location will do fine).

I am getting a leopard gecko and will be leaving to go on a 4 day vacation in an RV. I was planning on just leaving him home and was curious if that was okay to do.

I have left my geckos for 4-5 days without a problem. Make sure you feed it right before you leave and have a water bowl deep enough so you don’t run out of water while you’re gone.

Hello, I’m going to travel across the country from Colorado to Michigan, so its about a 20 hour drive. What are the recommended traveling precautions i should take, as in what should he be in while i travel? Also will he be okay without the UV light for 20 hours straight? i will not have the a/c on as it does not work. Thanks in advance

I’m not sure what kind of gecko you’re talking about, but I’d assume a crestie. I’d recommend putting him in a deli cup with holes punched. If you’re going to be staying places overnight, get a small cage so he can be a bit less confined overnight. The absence of UV is not a problem. Don’t leave him in the car if you make a stop for lunch or something. Get a small canvas bag, put the deli cup in there and don’t say anything to the restaurant people. Have a good trip.

If I pick up a leopard gecko as I am leaving vacation, will it be able to stay in the car for 30 hours? It’s a baby no more than a couple weeks but if I put it in a well insulated container during the summer will it be ok?

It depends on what’s going to be happening for those 30 hours. If you mean you’ll be driving somewhere and making stops, you could keep it in the car but whenever you get out I recommend you take the gecko with you (put the container in a canvas bag and don’t advertise what you’re carrying. If you mean can you leave the gecko alone in the car that’s not traveling for 30 hours, I wouldn’t recommend it.

Hello, I want a crested gecko, i never travel much, only 2 hours away every 3-4 months. I dont know. And am away for one night, a few times a month, and what is (in your experience the best choice of food for cresties.?) I have heard they don’t need much floor space as a cage just more heighth. Is that correct? Do they need heating lamps? Or cooling systems?

Thank you! I

You’re correct that they are arboreal, so they need a taller cage. As long as the temperatures in the room are reasonable for humans, it should be OK for the crested gecko. Generally, temperatures above the low 80’s (F) aren’t recommended, though in my experience a day or two of high heat should be OK. Crested geckos mostly eat some form of re-hydrated “Crested gecko diet” (CGD) and also enjoy crickets. They don’t need to eat every day so going away for a night isn’t a problem. Based on the questions you’re asking, I highly recommend you read a care sheet or a book about crested geckos before getting one.

I have a a trip next week for about four days and my gecko is still growing, it is not exactly an adult yet. should I just give it water and leave? I need advice please.

Give it a generous feeding and water before you leave. It will probably be fine.

So I have been really reasearching crested geckos and I really want to get one, but in the summer I am going away for 10 days and cannot bring my gecko with me. I can ask my family to mist them while I’m gone, but they don’t know anything about geckos and I’m afraid they might do something wrong. Also, would it be ok if I just left the food in the cage for the duration of my trip?

This is my opinion: one solution would be to wait to get the gecko until you come back. You can also check in to local boarding opportunities (some of the non big-box pet stores may do this). If you decide to get the gecko before vacation and can’t find a place to board it, it will be really important not to get a young juvenile. An older gecko would do better. I think you can teach someone how to mist the cage; it’s not that hard. I also think the gecko, if provided with enough humidity and hydration (which they get with the misting) would probably be OK without being fed for that period of time. It’s not ideal, but I think it could work out.

I have a question for you. Can I bring Phoenix (crested gecko) in Arizona. I little bit concerned about temperate is 120 degree. Can kill any reptiles? Thanks Aliza.

Are you asking whether you can take the crested gecko to Arizona for a vacation, or whether you can have a crested gecko in Arizona? In my experience, if the temperature is high for a few days (I live in New England and have no AC, so it can get into the 90’s in my living room in the summer on occasion) the crested gecko will probably be OK. If it will be in 120 degree temperatures for days and days, it might not do well. If it gets really hot I put ice packs in the cages. If you send a few more details, I may be able to give a better answer.

Leading up to the trip should you feed them the same amount of food that you would normally or should you feed them more ?

They’re only going to eat as much as they have room for, so it kind of doesn’t matter. If you’re going to be away without feeding them for awhile, you could put some extra in there to tide them over, though they do fine fasting for a short time.

I read a suggestion about a tupperwear container with a hole, like a moist hide, with mealworms in it. I’m going on a cruise this winter and I’m looking for options. Thoughts? I’m also an SLP!

If you get a container, make holes in it for air and put powdered grain gutload in it, the mealworms will be fine for the duration of the cruise.

Hello, I am going home for Christmas for 3 weeks and I have no one to feed my leo gecko while I am away. Therefore, I plan on taking him with me, however, I am unsure what precautions I should take. The trip is approximately 4 hours away and the last hour and a half is a pretty bumpy ride. My gecko is pretty cool with anything and loves being handled, however, does not do so well in small spaces, therefore, I don’t think he will be okay in a deli cup. I live in -20 degree weather, so i know ill have to have the car heated before I bring him out, but, I am looking for any more recommendations for my trip. Thank you!

I have driven from Boston to NY in January with a car load of geckos to do a show, so I know it can be done. If you feel your gecko won’t do well in a deli cup, get a 6 qt. plastic tub with a lid (or larger if desired). Cut a square hole in the lid and hot-glue some mesh over the hole, or else just make some holes in the sides (a soldering iron works really well). Put a very light weight hide in there as well. Even if you get into an unheated car, it will be warm within a few minutes so it’s not really a problem. It would be great if you can take a more permanent enclosure with heat along for your stay. Your gecko should be fine, even the bumpy part of the ride.

I am going to Texas over the summer and I’m planning to get a leopard gecko with all the necessary accessories. However, it will be a juvenile leo and I’m not sure how to go about carrying it. The drive will be 18 hours and for three weeks, so I was planning on bringing a pack of mealworms and calcium but should I have a little carrying cage or my 24x24x18 cage in the car? It would be rather awkward carrying it considering I’ll have 3 others in the car with me. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was planning on using the little portable hand held cage but I’m not sure how I’d go about heating/cooling it. Thanks.

I’m assuming you’re going to Texas for 3 weeks and it’s an 18 hour drive each way? If that’s the case you have several options. I recommend you get a 10 gallon traveling cage. Get some Zoo-med 11′ heat cable (pretty cheap on Ebay) and some Nashua tape from Home Depot or equivalent and get a thermostat. When you’re driving, keep the gecko in the 10 gallon with a lightweight hide, so it won’t get hurt if something slides. If you stop for lunch or something, don’t leave the gecko in the car because it will get too hot. You should have either a deli cup with holes or a small critter keeper that you can put the gecko in. Put that smaller enclosure in a canvas bag and don’t tell the restaurant people that you’re carrying a gecko around. When you get to your stop for the day, plug in the heater and feed/water the gecko. It may not eat too much but it should be OK. Alternatively, you could look into finding someone to care for it while you’re gone.

I am going out of town for five days and may not have someone available every day to check on my Leos. The big issue here for me is that there won’t be anyone to switch over their night and day lights. Would it be detrimental to leave the night bulb on while I am away? Or is there a better way to go about this? Thanks for the help!

If there is light in the room where they are, I don’t see any need to do anything with the lights in the cage. If there is no light in the room where they are, if you could get a lamp and a timer and have it on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours that should do it. I have a lot of leopard geckos and none of them have any lights except for daylight coming in through the window and everyone is fine.

I’m going on a trip that requires a bit of driving… I was hoping I could bring my young crested gecko along with me. I got the little one at repticon and it (not 100% sure on gender yet) didn’t seem to have any problems with the car ride home and actually fell asleep. I would be at a beach and then the mountains and it’s about a eight-ten day trip (not sure on exact return date). I have a lot of anxiety on vacations and Chimera (my crestie) has been my own little support gecko. This also means that I’m not as “out and about” as the rest of my family members on vacation. I would be in the place we’re staying often, but I will be going out to the beach occasionally or on hikes in the mountain which would leave my crested gecko alone for an hour or so. The temperature isn’t extreme where we’re going and we’ll have a thermostat as well. I was thinking of using the 10 gal enclosure I have with the substrate I usually use. I would provide a small hide since Chimera is pretty small and I may even cut in half a roll from paper towels. I have things for climbing that I can also place in the enclosure that are light and pose no threat if they fall over. Would this work out or should I try and find someone to watch the little one? Most people I trust with my animals won’t be around when I’m away which is why I rather bring Chimera with me, but if it could put Chimera in danger I would want to know. I also would love suggestions on how to improve my enclosure plan. I may also have two geckos by our next trip and have two enclosures I can set up like this, I was hoping to get someone’s advice to see if my plan would be okay. Thank you heaps!!!

I have my leopard gecko on a day and night cycle light where I have to switch it every twelve hours. I’m going on vacation and don’t have someone to switch his lighting or do anything for him. What do I do about that

Go to Home Depot or equivalent. Get a timer that you can plug your light into and then plug the timer into the wall. Set it the way you want and you can use it all the time.

It sounds fine to me. I tend to feel that most geckos are pretty hardy and can take lots of changes. Other people will feel differently.

i am going on a trip to the beach from sunday morning to wednesday night i have no one to watch Hoops “my gecko” so i got the whole lighting system to work, i used automatic lights, but my question is can my leopard gecko go that long without food, could i feed him sunday morning and wednesday night because then it would only be two days without food. but the problem is i don’t know how old he is except that he is 5 to 6 inches long would you be able to determine the age please?

I have no way to determine age. However, I have geckos that don’t eat (by choice) for weeks. I have left my geckos, even when I had juveniles, for that long before with no problem. Just give them extra before you go and if you think their water will get dry, find a deeper water bowl.

I am going on vacation to Cali. around October, and I have a leopard gecko named Max. I will be gone for about 4 days, and not sure about what to do with my gecko. Will Max be okay if I don’t feed him for that long? Also, I’m not sure what to do about his lamp and if I should leave it on or off. Should I feed him extra before I leave and extra when I come back? I really appreciate any help, this is my first pet and I want to make sure to do the right thing. Thanks!

If you’re also heating with an under tank heater, and there’s light in the room he’s in, leave the light off. If you need the light for heat (under tank heater is better), get a timer and set it up. If you can get a deep enough water bowl so he’ll have water, use that. Put some food in right before you go and he’ll be fine.

I’m leaving for 2 days for my birthday would it be okay to leave my crested gecko without someone to mist them? I dont know anyone where I live she also has 2 eggs so I’m super worried

I have left my crested geckos for up to 4 days without misting. When you say that she has eggs, do you mean that she’s gravid and hasn’t laid the eggs yet, or that she has laid the eggs and they’re buried in the substrate? In the wild, there are probably times when it doesn’t rain so much, so I would imagine you’re OK

I am going on a long weekend trip for 4 days. I have a approx 3 month old Leo — I do not have anyone that can come check on it while I am gone. I have done a little bit of research short of calling my local pet shop for their advice. Some sites say a baby leo cannot go an extended period of time without eating and others say they would be fine for that length of time. What do you suggest?

My only other option is to bring my leo to my sisters house and have her geckosit, but I feel that could be excessive with moving his enclosure around.

In my opinion, it’s not ideal but it’s doable. I’ve done it before with a houseful of hatchlings during the summer. Find a water dish deep enough so the water will last. Put in extra feeders. It should be fine.

I just purchased a fancy gecko several days ago that has yet to eat. I purchased a feeding starter kit that consisted of dried/dead crickets, calcium powder and dried mealworms(a separate container of dried mealworms in a separate bottle also)…I understand that it may be temporarily stressed but also read that you should avoid feeding them any insects that aren’t alive? What do you recommend?

I don’t know where you read that you shouldn’t feed them any insects that aren’t already alive. Most leopard geckos will not eat anything that’s not moving, so it’s not surprising that the gecko won’t eat the dried insects. You need to get live mealworms and/or crickets. Two things to be aware of: –it is true that some leopard geckos can take a week or more to settle into a new place and may not eat during that time –some people do say that any live insects left in the cage after 15-30 minutes should be removed so they don’t hurt the gecko. In my experience, this does not usually occur and, especially with a new gecko, it’s a good idea to leave the feeders in the enclosure to give the gecko time to feel comfortable enough to eat them. I also recommend you google some more leopard gecko care sheets and see what they have to say about care and feeding.

Helloooooo this is a cool website thanks for all the tips!!!

Im moving to Alaska with a gargoyle gecko. Will the temperature be ok for him?

can my beardie be left at home for 27 days without care?

I wouldn’t recommend it. How will he get water? What if the light burns out? I think he can be OK enough with minimal care which would include him being checked on at least once a week, fresh water provided (I know beardies don’t usually drink from a bowl, but they can, and, obviously if he doesn’t get any food he won’t have any source of hydration), either live feeders or greens provided. Some pet stores board beardies and you may also be able to pay someone to do this minimal care, which is what I do when I go away.

Are you asking about the temperatures while you’re transporting him or the temperatures when he’s living in Alaska with you? Presumably you will be in a house where the temperature is comfortable for you, meaning, at least in the mid 60’s. If that’s the case, he will be fine. If you’re going to have things colder than that, you will need to give him a heating pad or a ceramic heat emitter to keep the inside of his cage at least n the 60’s

My female leopard gecko has not eaten for a few months after summer into fall and winter.

It’s not unusual for geckos not to eat for awhile. Mine stuff themselves from August into early September and all of a sudden most of them stop eating very much at all. If the gecko isn’t visibly losing weight it’s probably fine.

Hi! I really want a Crested Gecko, but my parents want to know if / how the Gecko will survive a 9 hour car journey, + how the gecko will thrive when we arrive without a terrarium (since there is no room in the car with 5 people plus luggage ), before I can get one. I also need to know what to do with the gecko when I have arrived at where we will be a few days / weeks, depending on the holiday / events. If I can travel far and short with the gecko without problems, and be in another place possibly without his / her terrarium, I will be allowed to buy the gecko, according to my parents. I hope you have some good advice! I really want a Crested Gecko because I have wanted it for a long time, and I need a little friend who can support me in everyday life. Thank you so much for the tips!

I’m not quite sure of the exact situation. Are you saying that if you get a crested gecko, you’ll be making a 9 hour trip the same day, or that when you go on vacations it’s usually 9 hours away. So here’s my general response without knowing the exact situation: a crested gecko can travel in a deli cup with holes punched in the sides for air. This keeps the gecko from suffocating in the plastic. You can buy deli cups with holes punched in the sides of the actual cup or you can make small holes in the sides of a 16oz deli cup that you could buy from a food store that sells things in cups like that. The gecko will be able to tolerate the drive as long as you don’t leave it in the car for more than a few minutes when you make a stop (it will be too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter with the car not running). The best way to deal with this is to put the deli cup in a nice canvas bag, take it into the restaurant or hotel, and don’t make a big deal about what you’re doing. Once you arrive you will need some place to keep the gecko. You can do this for awhile by getting a plastic tub with a cover from a store like Target. While you’re traveling, take the cover off the tub and put other luggage inside. Read up on the things that need to be in the “terrarium” and have those separately as well. When you arrive, set up the temporary vivarium. When you’re ready to go back home, pack it up the same way.

Hi! I have to be out of town from Thursday-Sunday (leaving Thursday afternoon and returning Sunday night). I have a ~4 month old leopard gecko with no one to feed her while I am away. Will she be okay if I leave extra food in her dish before leaving tomorrow (and of course filling her water)? How many mealworms should I leave in her bowl? Thank you!

Fill her bowl with mealworms (don’t worry how many), and fill the water bowl. If the bowl is shallow use a bigger one. It should be fine.

I’m going in vacation for about a week and can’t bring my leopard gecko with me. Is it ok for me bring her to a friend’s house so they can watch her for me? I have a second cage that’s a little smaller that she can stay in while she’s there

It should be fine. Just make sure there’s heat in the smaller cage.

Hello I love your website.I am think about getting a leachianus gecko and I am wondering how long can they go without food if i go on a vacation?

The most important thing is that they get access to water, which means that the cage gets misted at least every other day (when you’re home, they get misted every day but if you’re away every other day should do it). My leachie seems to go quite awhile sometimes without eating, even when food is offered, so I don’t think that’s too much of an issue. It would be important to find someone to come in and mist the cage every other day or to find a place to board it if you can’t find anyone to take care of this in your home.

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Leopard Gecko Travel Cage

Leopard geckos are a type of reptile that is often kept as a pet. Many people choose to keep their leopard geckos in a cage or tank inside their home. However, there may be times when it is necessary or desirable to take the leopard gecko on the go. In these cases, it is important to have a travel cage that is the right size and is appropriate for the needs of the leopard gecko.

There are several things to consider when choosing a travel cage for a leopard gecko. The size of the cage is important, as the leopard gecko needs room to move around. The cage should also be tall enough that the leopard gecko can climb to the top and bask in the sun. Additionally, the cage should have a secure lid to prevent the leopard gecko from escaping.

One option for a travel cage for a leopard gecko is a plastic storage container. This type of cage is often the right size and is easy to transport. It is also easy to clean and can be disinfected if needed. Another option is a small animal carrier. This type of carrier is often made of wire mesh and has a plastic bottom. It is important to make sure that the carrier has a secure lid to prevent the leopard gecko from escaping.

When choosing a travel cage for a leopard gecko, it is important to make sure that the cage is big enough for the leopard gecko to move around in and that it has a secure lid.

• 1 Can I travel with my leopard gecko?
• 2 How do you take care of a leopard gecko while on vacation?
• 3 Can you leave a leopard gecko alone for a week?
• 4 How do you transport a leopard gecko?
• 5 How long can a leopard gecko be in a car?
• 6 How long can leopard geckos be out of their tank?
• 7 What to do with reptiles when you go on vacation?

Can I travel with my leopard gecko?

Yes, you can travel with your leopard gecko, but there are some things you need to know first.

The first thing you need to do is make sure your leopard gecko is healthy and free of parasites. You also need to make sure it is properly vaccinated.

Once you have done that, you need to make sure you have the right supplies. You will need a secure cage, food, water, and a heat source.

If you are travelling by car, you can put your leopard gecko in a secure container and place it in the backseat. If you are travelling by plane, you will need to check with the airline to see if they allow reptiles on board.

If you are travelling to a cold climate, you will need to make sure your leopard gecko has a warm place to hide.

If you are travelling to a hot climate, you will need to make sure your leopard gecko has a cool place to hide.

Overall, travelling with your leopard gecko is not too difficult, but it is important to take the necessary precautions.

How do you take care of a leopard gecko while on vacation?

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular pet lizards and can be easy to care for as long as you have the right supplies. If you’re going on vacation and need to take care of your leopard gecko while you’re gone, there are a few things you need to do to make sure he or she stays healthy.

The most important thing is to make sure your leopard gecko has a place to hide. Leopard geckos like to hide in dark, enclosed spaces, so make sure you have a hiding place for him or her. A small cardboard box works well, or you can buy a special lizard hide.

Another important thing is to make sure your leopard gecko has plenty of water. You can buy a special lizard water dish, or you can use a small dish or cup and fill it with water every day.

Your leopard gecko will also need food while you’re on vacation. You can buy a special lizard diet or you can use crickets. Be sure to buy enough crickets to last your leopard gecko the entire time you’re gone.

If you’re going to be gone for a week or more, you may want to consider finding a pet sitter to take care of your leopard gecko for you. A pet sitter can make sure your leopard gecko has food, water, and a place to hide while you’re away.

If you’re not able to find a pet sitter, you can leave your leopard gecko with a friend or family member. Just be sure to give them a list of what your leopard gecko needs so they can take care of him or her properly.

No matter who you leave your leopard gecko with, make sure to pack up all of his or her supplies so he or she will have everything they need while you’re gone.

With a little preparation, you can easily take care of your leopard gecko while on vacation.

Can you leave a leopard gecko alone for a week?

Leopard geckos are a popular pet choice and can make great companions. They are relatively easy to care for and do not require a lot of attention. This means that they can be left alone for a period of time without any issues. However, it is important to understand that there are some things that you should not do when leaving a leopard gecko alone.

One of the most important things to remember is that leopard geckos require a certain level of humidity in their environment. If the humidity is too low, they can experience health problems. You can help to maintain the proper humidity level by providing a water dish that they can drink from and by misting the enclosure a few times a day.

Another thing to keep in mind is that leopard geckos need to be kept at the correct temperature. The ideal temperature range for leopard geckos is 70-80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is too low, they can experience health problems. If the temperature is too high, they can experience health problems or even die.

It is also important to make sure that the leopard gecko’s enclosure is clean. Leopard geckos can be prone to developing skin problems if their environment is not kept clean.

In general, leopard geckos can be left alone for a week without any issues. However, it is important to take into account the things that I have mentioned here. By following these guidelines, you can help to ensure that your leopard gecko stays healthy and happy.”

How do you transport a leopard gecko?

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular reptile pets and for good reason – they’re relatively easy to care for and are known for being docile. If you need to transport your leopard gecko for any reason, here are a few tips to make the process as stress-free as possible for both you and your gecko.

The first step is to find a suitable container in which to transport your leopard gecko. A small box or container with ventilation is ideal. You may also want to place a few towels or other soft materials inside the container to provide your gecko with some comfort.

Once you have your container ready, it’s time to gather up your leopard gecko’s supplies. Be sure to include a water dish, food dish, and a few climbing branches or other objects your gecko can use to climb on and hide in.

If you’re travelling by car, it’s best to place your leopard gecko’s container in the backseat so it’s away from the wind and sun. If you’re travelling by plane, be sure to check with the airline to see if they have any restrictions on travelling with reptiles.

If you’re travelling a long distance, it’s a good idea to stop every few hours to allow your leopard gecko to get some exercise and use the bathroom.

Overall, transporting a leopard gecko is a relatively easy process. By following the tips above, you can help make the journey as stress-free as possible for both you and your gecko.

How long can a leopard gecko be in a car?

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular reptile pets, and they can make great companions for those who are looking for an easy-to-care-for pet. One question that many people have is how long can a leopard gecko be in a car?

The short answer is that a leopard gecko can be in a car for a few hours without any problems. However, it is important to make sure that your leopard gecko is kept in a cool and comfortable environment while it is in the car. You should also make sure that your leopard gecko has access to water.

If you are traveling with your leopard gecko, it is important to make sure that you have a safe and secure place for your pet to ride. You should also make sure that your leopard gecko is properly secured in its carrier.

It is important to note that leopard geckos are not the best pets for car trips. If you are traveling a long distance, it is best to leave your leopard gecko at home.

How long can leopard geckos be out of their tank?

Leopard geckos are a popular pet lizard and can be kept in a variety of environments, including a tank. While they can spend some time out of their tank, they should not be out of their tank for more than an hour at a time.

What to do with reptiles when you go on vacation?

If you’re a reptile owner, the question of what to do with your pet when you go on vacation is an important one. Luckily, there are a number of options available to you.

The first option is to find a friend or family member who can take care of your reptile while you’re away. This is often the easiest option, as your reptile will be in familiar surroundings and will likely be taken care of by someone who is familiar with their needs.

If you don’t have anyone who can take care of your reptile, you may want to consider boarding them at a local pet store or veterinarian’s office. This can be a good option if you’re worried about your pet’s welfare, as most pet stores and veterinarians have experience caring for reptiles.

Finally, you can also choose to leave your pet at home. This option is not recommended unless you have a friend or family member who can check in on your pet regularly. If you choose this option, be sure to provide your pet with a safe, comfortable place to stay and enough food and water to last the duration of your trip.

No matter which option you choose, be sure to give your pet plenty of time to adjust to their new surroundings before you leave. This will help ensure a smooth transition for your pet and minimize the stress of being away from home.

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• Sep 17, 2023
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Build a Terrific Terrarium for Your Leopard Gecko: A Comprehensive Reptile Care Guide

Updated: Nov 16, 2023

One of the most popular pets for new reptile owners, leopard geckos have taken over the pet stores. Their relative low-maintenance care is attractive for those who are new to the reptile keeping world, but there are still many specific requirements that come with keeping one. Learn to build a terrific terrarium, provide a balanced diet, and create a healthy, natural habitat for your new gecko friend!

What does a leopard gecko look like?

If you're brand-new to the world of leopard geckos, I have a helpful photograph of my beautiful Cleo to the left here! Leopard geckos have bumpy skin, claws on their toes, moveable eyelids, and their signature large, fatty tail. They are an arid gecko, which means they come from the desert. They come in a variety of morph colors, ranging from bright yellow and orange to albino. In the wild, their natural coloration is yellow with black spots.

What does a leopard gecko cost?

When you walk into a typical chain pet store, such as Petco, PetSmart, or Pet Supplies, the average cost for a leopard gecko ranges anywhere from $25-50. The cost depends on the coloration, age, and breeding source. A leopard gecko that has dropped its tail is often sold at a large discount since this is considered a cosmetic defect.

Do leopard geckos bite?

The best rule of thumb is this: anything with a mouth can bite! A leopard gecko has teeth and can snap down pretty hard for their small size, so a bite from a leopard gecko certainly doesn't feel good, but their teeth are so small that they don't cause any damage.

Most leopard geckos are pretty friendly if treated with respect, however, and will refrain from biting in general. They only lash out as a last resort. As with snakes, a leopard gecko's only aggressive defense is biting, so if you recognize their signs of stress and interact only when they are calm, you likely won't get bit.

How big should a leopard gecko's terrarium be?

A leopard gecko's terrarium should be at minimum 15 gallons. Even though most babies only require about ten gallons, it's best to allow them space to grow into. Adults must have 20+ gallons for proper exercise.

You will want to provide as much walking space for your gecko as possible. In the wild, leopard geckos roam around a small territory within the desert mountains in search of tasty bugs. Although they don't walk miles per day like tigers do, they can be very active at night. Be sure to provide plenty of open, accessible space for your gecko to roam.

You won't need a terrarium that's tall, either. Twenty gallon aquarium tanks typically come in long and tall versions; you'll want to pick the long version to optimize your gecko's walking space.

That isn't to say your gecko doesn't like to climb, though! Leopard geckos enjoy rock climbs as a way to exercise, strengthen their muscles, and naturally shave down their nails. Be sure your terrarium is at least sixteen inches tall.

What does a leopard gecko need in its cage?

Inside your leopard gecko's terrarium, you will need to incorporate everything your gecko needs to not only survive, but thrive in a happy, healthy environment. You're going beyond the simple food, water, space, clean air, and shelter here: you're making an enriching, interactive environment for your gecko to enjoy for years

You'll need the following in order to create the home of your gecko's dreams:

Water Dish : Your gecko will need a water dish that needs cleaned and refilled with chlorine-free water daily. Place this item where it won't get dirty or trampled easily, for example, in the corner of the terrarium. Make sure your gecko has easy access to it, though, and it's easily visible.

Dry Hide : This is a either a rock or natural-type shelter where your gecko can hide and stay warm during the day. Place it on the side of your terrarium where the heat is most intense. Try using a rock hide that retains heat for maximum comfort.

Wet Hide : Your gecko would normally find moisture in small rock crevices containing mosses or puddles in the wild. To replicate this in your terrarium, simply create a hide, place moss or a wet paper towel inside, and locate it on the cool side of your terrarium.

Deep Substrate : Did you know that leopard geckos enjoy digging or burrowing? Don't deny them this natural enriching behavior! Provide at least three inches of substrate of your choice to ensure your gecko has every opportunity to dig to their heart's content.

Lighting : Leopard geckos require heat and UVB light fixtures to regulate their body temperature and absorb vitamins and minerals into their bloodstream. Make sure to buy BOTH fixtures and place them over top of your terrarium!

Temperature Gradient : Since leopard geckos are cold-blooded animals, they cannot regulate their body temperature like we do, instead relying on their environment to provide them the heat or chill they need. To accommodate this, simply place a heat lamp on one side of the terrarium and a UVB fixture on the other, or keep both fixtures together on one side of the terrarium. The warm zone should hit 80-95 degrees during the day, and the cool zone should remain at an ambient temperature of 75-80 degrees. Let the temperature fall as low as sixty degrees overnight to replicate their natural extreme desert environment.

Rock Climb : Leopard geckos come from a rocky, mountainous environment. In order to keep their muscles strong, their joints healthy, and their nails filed down, provide a rough rock climb at a small incline. You can make it decorative or naturalistic according to your preference.

Decorations/Live Plants : In order to keep your leopard gecko feeling safe, provide live foliage suited to an arid environment or decorations that mimic the desert terrain. Place these decorations or live plants throughout the terrarium. This way, your leopard gecko will not feel exposed, which limits their stress and maintains good health.

Terrarium Lid with Clips : You wouldn't want your leopard gecko climbing right out of their nice, safe home, would you? Buy a terrarium lid fitted to your tank size and get clips to secure it in place. This way, you won't have to deal with stressful escape situations, and your leopard gecko will always be safe and healthy inside their home.

Miscellaneous : You may choose to feed freeze-dried food to your gecko via a shallow food bowl placed in plain sight. Additionally, if your home gets very cold during winter months, you may choose to place an under-tank heat mat under your gecko's terrarium to provide a constant source of heat. NEVER place a heat mat inside your gecko's tank to prevent burns and electric shocks.

What does a leopard gecko eat?

A leopard gecko's diet is much more varied in the wild than it will be in the walls of your (hopefully) bug-free home. As an insectivore, these lizards derive all their nutrients from the bugs they hunt in their rocky territories. You will want to feed them as many crickets, mealworms, soldier fly larvae, and calcium worms as you can get your hands on.

Be careful, though, that you do not overfeed your gecko. Obesity is unfortunately common in the pet gecko world, and it is entirely due to the owner overfeeding the gecko.

Your leopard gecko only needs to eat one to twice per week as an adult. In addition, only feed them as many live bugs as they can hunt in the span of five to ten minutes.

You are in control of your gecko's health—be sure to feed them according to their activity level, and adjust as necessary!

Additionally, keep in mind that most feeder insects are lacking in certain nutrients that your gecko would normally receive from their diverse diet in the wild. You MUST provide a calcium and vitamin B12 supplement to maintain your gecko's health.

Calcium is one of the biggest determining factors in bone development, and a chronic deficiency can lead to bone deformities that impair your gecko for life. Do not skip on this essential supplement in your gecko's diet!

For Babies: Baby and juvenile leopard geckos are in a state of fast growth and require more frequent feedings than adults. Be sure to feed babies a few pinhead crickets and live diced blackworms each day, and for juveniles, back it off to every other day. NEVER feed your gecko a food item larger than the width between its eyes; anything bigger is a choking hazard.

Do leopard geckos need special lighting?

Although before, it was considered unnecessary, recent herpetological veterinary studies have discovered that UVB lighting is essential to leopard geckos' growth, development, and health maintenance.

Without proper UVB, leopard geckos cannot absorb calcium and other important nutrients into their bloodstream, even if they are regularly fed the proper supplements. Leopard geckos living without UVB lighting were found to have low blood-calcium levels and weak bone density.

When choosing your UVB lighting, you may decide on either a UVB light bar or a simple lamp and UVB bulb fixture. Be careful to ensure your leopard gecko cannot directly touch the surface of the lamp or bulb to prevent burns. Choose a bulb somewhere between 15-25 watts to properly replicate the UVB index they would receive in the wild.

Do leopard geckos shed?

Yes! Like all reptiles, leopard geckos periodically shed the outer layer of their skin. They, just like all lizards, have a tendency to shed their skin in pieces rather than all at once like a snake. Additionally, they almost always eat their shed, which is a natural behavior in geckos. It's simply their way of reclaiming otherwise wasted nutrients!

You may notice your gecko taking on a gray or dusty appearance right before they shed. This is normal! They aren't sick; it's the outermost layer of skin dying off cell by cell until it's ready to slough off. And there's no need to help your gecko shed—they do this naturally on their own their entire life!

The only time you might have to help your gecko shed is if they get pieces of their shed stuck to the layer of skin beneath. This condition, called stuck shed, is common in leopard geckos. It's a sign that the humidity in your terrarium is too low for you gecko's specific needs.

To assist your gecko with stuck shed, first attempt to soak the skin in warm, but not hot, water or use a wet cue tip to gently rub at the affected area. If the skin still doesn't come off, DO NOT attempt to peel it off! This could damage the layers of skin underneath and cause bleeding, infections, and other superficial injuries.

Contact your exotic veterinarian with concerns about your gecko's shed, and they will recommend proper next steps, such as using specific products or coming in for a vet treatment.

Do leopard geckos need humidity?

Leopard geckos do, in fact, need humidity, just not as much as a tropical gecko. Your gecko will thrive in arid conditions, which means a humidity less than 60% at any given time. As long as you have a wet hide that is constantly maintained and available to your gecko, they should be able to regulate their humidity needs.

If your gecko consistently gets stuck shed or sheds less than usual, consider upping the ambient humidity level of your terrarium. It's actually common for a leopard gecko to have an individual preference for higher humidity.

In the wild, they enjoy rocky crevices with running water or soaking moss, which is a high-humidity environment. Some geckos love this kind of weather, while others prefer it hot and dry. Adjust according to your gecko's preferences!

Can leopard geckos live together?

This is a commonly asked question with a resounding answer: no . Leopard geckos may live together while they're young, but as soon as they hit the late juvenile stage, they begin to establish firm territories. The risk of fighting among cohabitating leopard geckos is extremely high, and the subsequent risk of injury is just as high.

It's considered best practice to house leopard geckos alone. There are rare exceptions where leopard geckos grow up together and tolerate one another with a large enough territory provided, but overall, leopard geckos are solitary animals. They do not form families like human beings do. They prefer their alone time in peace and quiet.

During breeding season, leopard geckos tolerate one another for a short period, but as soon as breeding is complete, they tend to go back to fighting. If you're considering breeding leopard geckos, take into account the fact that you will still have to house your geckos separately; they should only be together for mating, and they should be closely monitored for signs of aggression.

What substrate does a leopard gecko need?

Although leopard geckos are considered arid desert animals, they should not live on sand exclusively. In fact, they prefer a more rocky, hardier terrain mixed with loose soil they can dig in, just like the mountainous rock crevices they rule in the wild.

For the most optimal substrate, a mix of sand, reptile soil, and rock will yield the best results. You can easily DIY most of this by purchasing a 50lb bag of Play Sand, a giant bag of lava rocks, super glue, reptile soil, and naturalistic aquarium gravel for under $40.

Glue your lava rocks in any formation to a piece of cardboard and let it dry. Mix the sand and reptile soil together in a 1:2 ratio, then pour it into the bottom of your terrarium until it reaches a height of two inches. Place your lava rock formation on one side of your terrarium, then cover most of it with substrate, only allowing the very tops of the rocks to protrude from the soil. Sprinkle your aquarium gravel throughout the rest of the terrarium as a finishing touch, then voila! You have a wonderful substrate for your gecko.

Do leopard geckos like to be held?

This is a tricky topic, because the word like doesn't necessarily fit the bill here. Reptiles do not form the same emotional bonds with us that a dog or cat may form. At most, they tolerate us and are curious about what we're doing, how we smell, or the way we dress.

Some leopard geckos are phenomenal handling animals, meaning they sit there and allow us to pick them up, poke and prod at them at the vet, and pet them all over without blinking an eye. Others will panic the moment they see your hand. Still others may tolerate being picked up, but don't like being petted, poked, or touched.

You will have to gauge this according to your gecko's personality. Some geckos may change their opinion of handling over time, and it can be for the better or for the worse. As long as you are patient, pay attention to your gecko's behavior, and take care of their needs, you will likely have a rewarding handling experience.

There are plenty of ways to increase your gecko's handling tolerance over time. Simply spending your evenings reading around your gecko's enclosure may allow them to adjust to having you around and increase their tolerance for handling. Your individual gecko may warm up to you quickly, or they may learn at a snail's pace. Take your time, allow your gecko to decide when they're comfortable, and give space during setbacks in the handling process.

How do you maintenance a leopard gecko terrarium?

Maintaining a leopard gecko terrarium is one of the easiest husbandry tasks in the animal world. If you have a bioactive terrarium, you won't have to do any maintenance at all aside from feeding and watering!

For the rest of you that don't have a bioactive terrarium, the maintenance is this: pick up droppings weekly, clean water/food dishes daily, rewet the wet hide materials daily, and water any live plants you may have growing in your terrarium. Replace the top layer of your substrate every few months. Replace heat and UVB bulbs every three to six months to ensure proper light and UV emittance.

Do leopard geckos go to the vet?

Leopard geckos don't need to visit the vet regularly like cats and dogs, but there's a handful of exotic vets ready to help you and your gecko should you run into any health issues. Exotic vets have a special license to treat reptiles, amphibians, and/or birds in addition to the general practice license. They know exactly what to do if you bring in your unique gecko friend!

There are some common health issues that pop up with leopard geckos that you can easily treat on your own, but if you find yourself in a situation where your gecko is rapidly losing weight, acting lethargic, refusing to eat, not going to the bathroom, is injured, or otherwise appearing/acting VERY strangely, don't hesitate to reach out to an exotic veterinarian.

To find an exotic vet, you can look up a vet near you on the website for the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV). They have an entire registry of vets licensed to take care of your leopard gecko. It's updated constantly, so you should be able to find a vet and their practice's location/website with ease.

What are some common health issues in leopard geckos?

Some common health issues in leopard geckos are as follows:

Stuck Shed : This is a condition where your gecko's dead skin gets stuck on the layer of new skin beneath it. It's usually an indicator that the humidity is to low in your terrarium. To treat, try to soak the affected area in lukewarm water or rub it gently with a wet cue tip.

Impaction : This is a scary condition where your gecko has a buildup of undigestible materials in their intestines. Signs are lethargy, appetite changes, behavioral changes (such as excessive sleeping and hiding during active hours or new aggression), not going to the bathroom, refusal to eat, and a bulging abdomen.

The cause is typically the ingestion of substrate such as sand over time or eating a foreign object. Contact your vet right away if you suspect impaction, because if left untreated, this condition is lethal.

Metabolic Bone Disease : Unfortunately, this condition is common in the pet industry due to ignorant pet owners and lack of education in pet stores. Metabolic bone disease occurs when a reptile isn't receiving enough calcium and other vital nutrients during development and into adulthood. It causes permanent bone deformations that, if left to continue, impair the reptile's ability to walk.

If caught in time, a reptile may be able to retain some function of the affected limbs, but there is no cure for this disease once the bones have been deformed. Report anyone who tries to sell you pets with MBD. To prevent it from occurring in your own gecko, provide a varied diet with the proper calcium and vitamin supplements.

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Can Leopard Geckos Travel in a Car?

Home » Lizards » Leopard Geckos » Can Leopard Geckos Travel in a Car?

Leopard geckos are best kept in their tanks within the safety of our homes but because there are situations in life that happen that call for us to be away for a long period of time or even when moving from one house to another, we wonder whether or not we can safely bring our leopard geckos along with us in our car.  That being said, here is the answer to this very important topic.

Can leopard geckos travel in a car?  Yes, they can.  In order for them to do that though, you will need to make sure that they are warm, secure, and safe while you travel.

As stated above, leopard geckos are best kept at home.  Because things happen that require us to temporarily transport them to a different location though, having them ride along with us is something that is completely possible to do with the right preparation and carefulness.  Now that you know that, here’s exactly what you’ll need to do in order to make the trip a success.

Preparation

The reason for this is that not only are leopard geckos very small animals that can easily get injured during your travels but because they’re also animals that require a very specific type of environment to be in, in order to live comfortably and safely as well.

That said, you will likely need to look into getting a few items that will help ensure that they are in fact comfortable and safe before you decide to place them in your car.  These items will include the following:

• Insulated bubble wrap
• Hand warmers
• Plastic container
• Hand sanitizer

Some things you can bring with you from home such as their food, water, hide, and other items that you may have.  But when it comes to the other things on the list, you will need to get those as they will serve as a temporary substitute to the items that you have set up in your house.

The plastic container will be used for transporting, the hand warmers will be used to keep them warm, and the insulated bubble wrap will be used for blocking out the sun so that they don’t overheat while out on the road.  Everything else will be used for sanitary reasons.

You may be wondering why exactly you need to use insulated bubble wrap instead of a regular blanket or any other type of cover to put over their containers for protection, but because insulated bubble wrap is made specifically for blocking out the sun while covers, tarps, or whatever else can be used for coverage aren’t, it’s best to use the bubble wrap as it does not absorb heat from the sun.

To know what insulated bubble wrap I use for whenever I need to keep my leopard gecko or any other belongings that I may need to protect from the sun safe, you can buy it   over on Amazon.

Also, because that stuff is lightweight, it can be cut without any problem to your liking.  And since you’ll be placing your leopard gecko in a fairly small container, it’s likely that you will have to cut it in order to securely cover your leopard gecko’s container without it taking up too much space in the car.

After you’ve got that, you’ll now need a plastic container to actually place them in.  You can either make one using Tupperware and poking holes in it for proper ventilation or you can do what I did and get a more sturdy container like this one here from Amazon. 

Just like the bubble wrap, it is the same container that I use whenever I need to transport my leopard gecko from one location to another and I absolutely love it.

As for the hand warmers for their heat, check them out here .  The cool thing about those is that they have been made specifically for shipping and transporting lizards amongst other things that need to stay warm and will do a great job at keeping your leopard gecko nice and warm for the duration of your trip.

One packet will give you up to and sometimes over 3 days of usage and will ensure that they’re getting their heat while you travel.  When using those, you will need to place them under the container and not in it so that they don’t get overly hot. 

Their food, water, hide, and calcium are items that can be brought from home.  You will likely not be able to fit all four in your container, so placing your hide in first and then substituting the food, water, and calcium bowls for small plastic containers that you may be able to pick up in the crafts section at your local retail store or online will work just fine since your trip is only temporary.

Also, because so many items have to go into the container, I recommended getting the largest size available so that you have as much room as possible for not only your leopard gecko’s items but for your leopard gecko as well.

If you’ve ever placed groceries or almost anything else made of a slippery material in your car then you know that when turning corners or stopping too quickly, things slide.  That said, because Tupperware containers or even the container that I recommended to you are made out of plastic material, then it’s likely that if not secure, those two things will slide as well.

In order to avoid that, you’ll want to be very mindful of your leopard gecko and the items that are in his container and drive very, very carefully. 

That’s not to say that you shouldn’t be driving carefully anyways, but when driving with something as important as a leopard gecko in the car, it is probably safe to be a little more cautious of preventing them from sliding around then you normally would so that they don’t get hurt.

This means that you should turn corners slowly and also put your foot on the brakes gradually as you bring the car to a stop.  Another good way to ensure that things aren’t sliding around too much is to get some double-sided tape and tape everything down so that the chances of things moving around is less likely to happen.

That includes the water container, food container, calcium container, and the container that they’re enclosed in as well.  In addition to that, strapping your leopard gecko in with a seatbelt will also be very helpful with keeping your leopard gecko secure and in one spot.

If you’re traveling alone, then keep your leopard gecko in the front seat so that you can keep an eye on their container more easily as you drive. 

That doesn’t mean that you should constantly be taking your eyes off of the road to check on them, but instead, glancing over at them whenever traffic is not too heavy or at times where you are able to stop the car such as at a red light or stop sign so that you’re ensuring your safety.

Regular Maintenance

Leopard geckos get easily stressed out and having them in a container that is too small for their liking probably doesn’t help with keeping that stress down, but keeping an eye on them and giving them what they need when they need it in addition to cleaning up after them after they’ve eaten or excreted their waste will.

You can do absolutely everything else right but if you’re not checking to make sure they’re okay or neglecting their container while you’re on your trip, then this can take a toll on their health and wellbeing.

If you’re planning on being on the road for longer than a week for whatever reason, then I recommend taking a look at this article here that I’ve put together.  While traveling with leopard geckos can be a success, it’s not safe to have them out of their tanks for too long and you may need to find someone who can help care for them while you’re gone.

Taking trips with leopard geckos isn’t something that you hear people do too often but at the same time, it’s also not something that is unheard of either.  It can be done successfully but in order for it to be that way you have to make sure you come fully prepared for any and every situation that can possibly happen.

That may include bringing gloves and hand sanitizer to keep your hands clean after touching their droppings, bringing extra food and water so that there’s no chance of them running out of either of those, or bringing more calcium and vitamins than you might think you need so that you don’t run the risk of them running out of it due to it potentially falling out of the container.

You can’t be too careful or too prepared when planning a trip with your leopard gecko so make sure that you have everything that you need before you leave to ensure their safety so that things don’t go bad for you while you’re on your trip.

Many people have successfully taken trips with their leopard geckos, including me, so if I can do it and many other owners can do it, then with the right equipment and the right cautionary steps, you can do it as well.

Related Posts:

I’m Devin Nunn, an average joe that just so happens to have a deep love and passion for everything to do with reptiles. Because taking care of them for the vast majority of my life wasn’t fulfilling enough, I decided to begin educating others about them through my articles. read more...

How to SAFELY Travel with Pet Lizards in a Car [Ultimate Guide]

Travelling with a lizard in a car may seem like a daunting task. You probably have lots of questions – how should you transport your lizard? What will you need to pack? How do you ensure he stays warm enough?

As long as you prepare, it can be pretty straight forward.

Whether you are planning a quick trip to the vet, or are moving house, here is some guidance and tips on how to ensure your lizard arrives safe and sound.

To ensure your lizard feels comfortable and secure while travelling in a car, you will need to prepare:

Transport your lizard in a sturdy, secure and well ventilated container.

• Line the bottom of the carrier with a grippy material.
• Warm the carrier if necessary.
• Get your reptile used to it’s travel container.
• Pack all the essentials.
• Secure your lizard’s container in your car.
• Try to keep stops to a minimum.
• Do not take your lizard out of its travel carrier.
• Look out for signs of sickness during and after the car journey.

In this article we will go into detail on how to ensure that taking your lizard in a car is stress-free for both you and your reptile.

You have 2 options.

a) Taking your lizard travelling in it’s usual home.

You may want to travel with your lizard in it’s usual tank or container if you will be staying at your destination for a long period of time, for example, if you are moving house.

That works! However, there are a few things to be cautious of.

Firstly, remove any objects from inside container that could potentially move around or fall. Additionally, if your lizard lives in a open top container, ensure that there are no objects around that could fall into the container. If you experience some bumps in the road you don’t want anything to injure your little friend.

Finally, make sure that the tank or cage is in a secure place that will minimise movement. You want to avoid the container sliding around the car.

The possibility of injury in a moving car may make it advisable to put your pet in a smaller, more secure carrier.

b) Travelling with your lizard in a small travel carrier.

If you don’t have space for your lizards usual home, or you just don’t want to carry a glass tank, you can choose to use a soft-sided or hard-sided carrier.

The size of the travel carrier you opt for depends on the species of your lizard. Generally, the travel carrier needs to be big enough that your lizard can move around inside, but not so big that it could get thrown around during transportation.

You can easily adapt any kind of sealable plastic container as long as it has air holes. You could even punch some air holes in yourself. For large reptiles, like iguanas, a plastic dog or cat carrier can also work.

POPULAR LIZARD TRAVEL CARRIERS

How to prepare a lizard’s travel carrier.

a) Line the bottom of the carrier with a grippy material.

This can be newspaper, paper towel or pads. You can also use blankets on the bottom, which is recommended particularly during cold weather.

Line the bottom of the carrier with wet towels if your lizard needs a moist environment, or dry towels if it doesn’t.

This will also provide some extra cushioning for transportation.

b) Warm the carrier if necessary.

Depending on the weather, and the species of your lizard, you will want to consider controlling the temperature of the carrier. It also depends on how long your journey will be.

Tips for warming your lizard while travelling:

• Use heat packs or like hand warmers, these will emit heat for many hours.
• Pop an extra blanket inside the carrier for insulation.
• Wrap the container in blankets or old jumpers.
• Use a hot water bottle to keep them warm on shorter journeys.

Get your reptile used to it’s travel home before taking your lizard in the car.

If you will be using a travel carrier, try to purchase it at least 1 week in advance.

This is because you want your lizard to feel relaxed and at home in the carrier, in order to minimise stress.

Introduce your lizard to its carrier at least 1 week before your journey, starting off with just a few minutes at a time, and working your way up to at least 30 minutes.

Keep the rest of your reptile’s routine the same so that they don’t get stressed out before it’s time to go.

Pack all the essentials for the car journey.

The amount that you will need to bring will depend on how long your car trip will be.

If you are just going on a short drive to the vets, then you will need the basics. However, if you are going on a longer car drive, then you should pack more, in case of emergencies.

• Food and water
• Bedding, blanket and towels
• Cleaning supplies
• Thermometer
• Heaters – hot water bottle, hand warmers or heat packs
• Vet’s number
• Spray bottle

If you are planning on staying somewhere overnight, then you may also need the following:

• UVB and/or basking light

What to do on the day of travel.

a) Prepare your lizard’s carrier.

This should be done just before the journey as you want your lizard to be away from it’s normal environment for a minimum amount of time.

Refer to Section #2 How To Prepare Your Lizard’s Carrier.

b) Secure your lizard’s container in your car.

Ensure that your lizard’s carrier is in a secure position and won’t risk falling over.

You can secure the carrier in the passenger seat or a backseat with the seat belt, or place in on the floor. Keeping your lizard in the passenger seat will allow you to keep a close eye on him/her. 

c) Try to keep stops to a minimum.

The sooner you get your pet lizard to your destination and back to its normal environment and routine, the better.

Of course, you will need to make some stops to give them some water, depending on the species of your lizard. Just be sure to keep these breaks short.

You want to minimise stress as it can have a big negative impact on your lizard’s physical and mental health.

d) Check up on your lizard while in the car

The longer your journey, the more attention you’ll need to pay to your lizard.

On a long journey, make sure that your lizard is eating and drinking enough, and look out for any abnormal behaviour.

What to do after taking your lizard in a car.

a) Return your lizard to it’s normal environment or recreate is as accurate as possible.

Depending on your lizard’s species and personality, he/she may experience stress during or after the trip.

This can be down to a handful of reasons, such as undergoing a change in their environment, as well as experiencing new sights, sounds and smells.

The stress of a long car journey may last several days and up to a week in some cases. This is highly likely be the case if your lizard doesn’t return to it’s usual home after the trip as it can take some time for lizard’s to acclimate to their new environment. In some severe cases, this may even last up to a month.

b) Look out for signs of sickness after taking your lizard in the car.

Symptoms of a stressed lizard include not eating, lethargy and changes to its poop (e.g. not pooping, runny or darker coloured stools).

Stressed lizards are more prone to getting sick, so be sure to look out for the common signs of illness in lizards:

• Increased or decreased eating and drinking habits – not eating or drinking / vomiting / regurgitation / excessive water soaking
• Changes in stool or urine  – straining / increased or decreased waste production / changes in appearance
• Lumps or bumps – blisters / scabs / bruises / inflammation / redness
• Changes in general appearance – weight loss or gain / changes in colour / swelling of the limbs, jaw, tail or digits
• Activity level changes – lethargy / increased activity / decreased activity / staying in only one corner of the cage / generally weak
• Limping or lameness – paralysis / signs of trauma
• Changes in posture – acting disoriented / unable to assume normal posture
• Breathing problems – open mouth breathing / wheezing or squeaking sounds / excessive saliva / bubbles from nostrils

If you suspect that your lizard is sick, take him to the vet as soon as possible to get checked out.

Travelling with your lizard in the car will take some planning and preparations, but it can be done stress-free.

Just be sure to prepare your lizard’s travel container so that he doesn’t risk getting injured. If you’re using a separate travel carrier, make sure that you allow time for your lizard to get used to it before the trip.

Secure the carrier tightly in your car and keep a close eye on your lizard’s behaviour throughout, and after the trip.

Lizard’s who have experienced stress are more prone to getting sick, so, if you suspect that your lizard is unwell, take him to the vet as soon as possible to get checked out.

Hope you have found this helpful.

Safe travels!

Related post –  Bearded Dragon Leash-Training: Step by Step Guide to Walking your Lizard

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Can I Leave My Leopard Gecko Alone for a Week

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular pets in the reptile world. They are small, docile lizards that are easy to care for and make great first-time reptiles. One common question new leopard gecko owners have is whether or not they can leave their gecko alone for a week. The answer is yes, you can leave your leopard gecko alone for a week as long as you take some precautions.

• -Take your leopard gecko to a vet for a checkup to make sure it is healthy enough to be left alone for a week
• – Find someone who is willing and able to care for your leopard gecko while you are away
• This person should have experience caring for reptiles
• – Leave your leopard gecko with food and water and instructions on how to care for it
• – Check in with the person caring for your leopard gecko periodically to make sure everything is going well

Credit: geckoadvice.com

Table of Contents

Can You Leave Geckos Alone for a Week?

Yes, you can leave geckos alone for a week. They are able to survive on their own without any assistance. Geckos are independent creatures and do not require much care. If you are gone for more than a week, it is best to have someone check on them to make sure they have food and water.

How Long Can I Leave Leopard Gecko Alone?

Leopard geckos are one of the most popular reptiles kept as pets. They are relatively easy to care for and don’t require a lot of space, making them a great choice for first-time reptile owners. One of the most common questions new leopard gecko owners have is “How long can I leave my leopard gecko alone?” The answer to this question depends on a few factors, including the age and health of your leopard gecko, the temperature and humidity of their enclosure, and whether or not they have access to food and water. Generally speaking, an adult leopard gecko can be left alone for up to two weeks without any problems. Juvenile leopard geckos, on the other hand, should not be left alone for more than a week. If you must leave your leopard gecko for an extended period of time, it’s best to arrange for someone else to check on them regularly to make sure they are doing okay. As long as their basic needs are met (i.e. food, water, appropriate temperature and humidity), leopard geckos are pretty hardy creatures and can withstand being left alone for short periods of time without any problems. However, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and either bring your leopard gecko with you or arrange for someone else to check on them while you’re gone.

What Do You Do With a Leopard Gecko When You Go on Vacation?

If you have a leopard gecko, you will need to make arrangements for someone to care for your pet while you are on vacation. This is because leopard geckos cannot survive without food and water for more than a few days. There are a few options available for vacation care. You can ask a friend or family member to come over daily to feed and water your gecko. Alternatively, you could board your pet at a reptile-specific facility. Finally, some people choose to hire professional pet sitters who are experienced in caring for all kinds of animals. Whichever option you choose, be sure to provide detailed instructions on how to care for your leopard gecko. This should include information on what type of food to give them, how often to feed them, and how much water they need each day. It is also important to note where their hiding place is located so that they can be easily found when it is time to put them back in their enclosure.

Do Leopard Geckos Like to Be Left Alone?

Leopard geckos are a type of lizard that is native to parts of Asia and Africa. They are also one of the most popular types of pet lizards in the world. Leopard geckos are known for being relatively docile and easy to care for, which may be part of the reason why they make such good pets. As far as whether or not leopard geckos like to be left alone, it really depends on the individual animal. Some leopard geckos may enjoy having their own space and not being bothered by humans or other animals, while others may prefer to interact with their owners or other creatures. There is no right or wrong answer when it comes to this question, as every leopard gecko has its own personality and preferences.

Top 5 Reptiles You Can LEAVE FOR A WEEK | Vacation Friendly, Self Sustaining Reptiles

Gecko Vacation Feeder

Assuming you would like a blog post about gecko vacation feeders: As a pet owner, it’s important to make sure your animal is well taken care of even when you’re away on vacation. But what do you do with your beloved gecko while you’re gone? A gecko vacation feeder is the perfect solution! A gecko vacation feeder is a device that will automatically dispense food for your gecko while you’re away. Simply fill it with your gecko’s favorite food, set the timer, and leave! Your geckos will be well-fed and happy while you’re gone. There are many different types of gecko vacation feeders available on the market, so be sure to do your research to find one that’s right for your needs. But with a little planning, your geckos can enjoy a stress-free vacation too!

How Long Can You Leave a Gecko Alone

If you’re considering getting a gecko as a pet, one of the questions you might have is how long can you leave them alone. The answer to this question depends on a few factors, including the age and species of your gecko. Generally speaking, younger geckos shouldn’t be left alone for more than a day or two. This is because they are still growing and need regular feeding and care. Adult geckos, on the other hand, can usually be left alone for up to a week without any problems. Of course, there are always exceptions to the rule. Some geckos are simply more high-maintenance than others and may need more frequent feeding and attention. If you’re unsure about whether your particular gecko falls into this category, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and check in on them more often rather than less. In general, though, most geckos are pretty low-maintenance pets that can easily be taken care of even when you’re away from home for a few days. So if you’re looking for a pet that won’t require too much time or effort on your part, a gecko could be perfect for you!

How Long Can You Leave a Crested Gecko Alone

Crested geckos are one of the most popular reptiles kept as pets. They are easy to care for and make great first pets for children or beginners. One common question people have about cresties is how long can you leave them alone? The answer is that it really depends on the individual gecko. Some can be left alone for a week or more, while others may need to be fed every few days. If you are unsure whether your gecko can go without food for a few days, it is always best to err on the side of caution and feed them every day.

Is it Okay to Leave My Leopard Gecko Outside for a Week?

Leopard geckos are not suited for outdoor environments. taking your leopard gecko outside for a week may expose them to extreme temperatures, predators, and stress. These reptiles are best kept in a controlled, safe environment indoors to ensure their well-being and longevity.

Leopard Gecko Travel Cage

A travel cage for a leopard gecko is a small, lightweight enclosure that can be easily carried when traveling. The cage should be big enough for the gecko to move around and turn around comfortably, but not so big that it is cumbersome to carry. Some travel cages have removable top panels so that the gecko can be easily removed for cleaning or inspection. A mesh top panel provides good ventilation and allows the gecko to see out while preventing escape.

Leopard geckos are a popular pet reptile, known for their docile nature and easy care requirements. Many leopard gecko owners wonder if they can leave their pet alone for a week without any problems. The answer is yes, you can leave your leopard gecko alone for a week without any problems! However, there are a few things you should do to prepare your gecko and their tank before you go: – Make sure the tank is clean and all food and water dishes are filled. – Leave the temperature in the tank set at the correct level for your leopard gecko. – Place some hide spots in the tank so your gecko can feel safe and secure while you’re gone.

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• Electrostal History and Art Museum

You can spend time exploring the galleries in Electrostal History and Art Museum in Elektrostal. Take in the museums while you're in the area.

• Cities near Elektrostal

• Places of interest
• Yuri Gagarin Cosmonaut Training Center
• Central Museum of the Air Forces at Monino
• Peter the Great Military Academy
• History of Russian Scarfs and Shawls Museum
• Balashikha Arena
• Ramenskii History and Art Museum
• Balashikha Museum of History and Local Lore
• Bykovo Manor
• Pekhorka Park
• Malenky Puppet Theater
• Drama Theatre BOOM
• Pavlovsky Posad Museum of Art and History
• Saturn Stadium
• Likino Dulevo Museum of Local Lore
• Noginsk Museum and Exhibition Center
• Fairy Tale Children's Model Puppet Theater
• Fifth House Gallery
• Church of Vladimir
• Malakhovka Museum of History and Culture
• Orekhovo Zuevsky City Exhibition Hall