travel in asturias

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Discover why this stunning region is Spain’s best-kept secret

Beyond Barcelona, Asturias entices with gorgeous landscapes and world-class cuisine.

Sunrise warms the Picos de Europa, part of the Cordillera Cantabrica range that secludes Asturias from the rest of Spain.

This is a meal I could eat nowhere else, it occurs to me around the seventh course. I’m in the mountains of Asturias, one of Nat Geo’s Best Trips for 2020 , and I’ve been served a dish of sea urchin and ham that unites the coast and peaks of this northern Spanish province in a single bite. Two tables away, I see José Antelo raise his fork in triumph.

Antelo works as an air traffic controller in Barcelona . His brother, Luis, is a superior court judge in Madrid . They live in two of Europe’s top restaurant cities; they can enjoy memorable meals night after night without ever boarding a plane. But three or four times a year, they meet to eat in Asturias.

Asturias? This autonomous region of Spain lying along the Bay of Biscay, dense with trees that run up hillsides, dotted by wild marshland, and scalloped with tidy beaches, isn’t located between Madrid and Barcelona. It’s hundreds of miles from either. When I mention that, José laughs. “I’m sure you know why we come,” he says. “Nowhere else in Spain can you find so many flavors, such incredible variety, in such a small area. It is like an entire country.”

The coastal region’s rich seafood tops menus at acclaimed restaurants such as Güeyu Mar, in Ribadesella.

In the village of Arriondas, lavender scents the garden at Michelin-starred Casa Marcial, headed by chef Nacho Manzano, who grew up in the now renovated farmhouse.

We’re dining at Casa Marcial . Housed in an old mansion, or casona, decorated with window boxes and topped by a barrel-tiled roof, the restaurant sits at the top of a winding road in La Salgar, a mountain village that smells of pine. The coast is six miles to the north, as the Asturian wood pigeon flies. But La Salgar remains so deeply embedded in the hilly, heavily forested interior of the region that, I’m told, many of its residents spend their entire childhoods without ever seeing the water.

The Manzano family opened Casa Marcial in the middle of the last century as a general store, selling olive oil, cider, cattle feed, even clothing. In 1993, 22-year-old Nacho Manzano, the son of the owners, returned from the coast to start a restaurant. Gastronomes such as the Antelos love Casa Marcial, which has been awarded two Michelin stars. So do locals, who don’t dress up to eat there. But nobody more admires its modern Asturian cuisine—fresh, briny seafood such as razor clams, but also the thick bean stews of the mountain villages so pure and perfectly rendered—than other chefs.

On this November night, half a dozen chefs from across Spain have gathered to celebrate the restaurant’s 25th anniversary. They aren’t just paying homage; they are actually cooking for Nacho and about 50 of us diners. We eat plate after plate of food: more ham, roasted rabbit from the hills around the restaurant, and the salty, rubbery sea cucumbers that I’ve only had along the Spanish coast. By the time I head back over the mountain to my hotel in seaside Gijón, we’re nearly five hours into tomorrow.

Related: Check out these gorgeous photos of Spain .

Walking in the drizzle by the seawall where on summer days surfers congregate, I pass a rowboat filled with predawn fishermen. When I look around at where I am, and remember the mountain village I just left, José Antelo’s description hits home. Asturias is like an entire country.

Returning to the region for the first time in years, I’d driven north from Madrid a few days before. By the time I hit the A-66 highway, the mesa around me had been flat and brown for hours. At the northern edge of the province of León, I entered the Negrón tunnel—and emerged somewhere else, a land all its own. The highway curved through a valley rimmed with tall pines, past bulbous rock formations atop vertiginous slopes. I saw homes with picture windows cantilevered over stone-paved streets and ancient granaries perched on stilts. At times what I was seeing looked more like Ireland than Spain. There had been no official sign of demarcation when I passed from León to Asturias. It didn’t matter. I hadn’t needed one.

Cultural capital meets fun-loving port

I was heading for the Asturian capital of Oviedo, a compact city of roughly 220,000 residents separated from the slightly larger Gijón by rapidly encroaching suburbs. Each city has a proprietary social scene; you can be a VIP in one and all but unknown in the other. Oviedo has the better museums; Gijón has the beach. Twice a year, the Sporting Gijón and Real Oviedo soccer teams bring the rivalry to life before a full stadium.

Most visitors come upon Oviedo first. They seek out some of the best pre-Romanesque architecture in the world, 14 preserved buildings, including the tall, narrow ninth-century palace-church complex of Santa María del Naranco . I make a pilgrimage there as soon as I arrive. I enter a vaulted room made of stones the color of milk-clouded coffee. Only one other person is here. The windows are cut thick into the walls of the building, their shutters flung open to the breeze. I peer over a grove of trees and see the city spread out below.

Within the hour I’m making my way through Oviedo and find sculptures, it seems, on almost every corner; more than a hundred adorn the capital. Before I reach my hotel, I pass “La Maternidad,” a rounded woman with an equally rounded child by Colombian sculptor Fernando Botero , then Miguel Ortiz Berrocal ’s “El Diestro,” a metallic rendering of a bullfighter’s torso. Later, in a residential neighborhood, I’ll discover a conference center and office building designed by Santiago Calatrava that looks like a massive winged creature about to take flight. The next day, I’ll be transfixed by “El Regreso de Williams B. Arrensberg,” a statue of a trench-coated friend of artist Eduardo Úrculo , surrounded by suitcases and sporting a bemused expression as he gazes at the city’s cathedral.

The medieval town of Llanes is one of the top summer destinations in Asturias.

Oviedo’s artistic awakening has happened only over the last generation, just as Nacho Manzano started drawing international attention to his small restaurant in the mountains. The timing is no coincidence. “Before then, we didn’t think Asturias had much to offer the world,” explains Esther Manzano, Nacho’s sister, who has her own restaurant, La Salgar , in the center of Gijón. “We didn’t believe in ourselves. We didn’t have fantastic weather. We were very hard to get to—a long drive from anywhere, there were no flights. We just assumed nobody would want to come.”

Then two things happened: Europe’s new bargain airlines began flying intrepid tourists here in the late 1990s; and Woody Allen’s 2008 film Vicky Cristina Barcelona sent its characters to Oviedo for a weekend, causing filmgoers around the world to turn to each other in surprise. Why would anyone leave Barcelona to visit … Asturias? “Woody Allen told the world we exist,” Esther says. “He opened the world’s eyes, but he also opened our eyes.” A statue of the controversial writer-director stands off Calle Uria.

Explore more: Here’s a quick guide to Málaga, Spain’s sixth largest city .

Tourism has helped raise the standard of living in Asturias, giving restaurants like those run by Nacho and Esther Manzano a way to thrive. But it hasn’t changed the nature of the place. Spain entertained more than 80 million visitors last year, enough to overrun many of its best known places. Barcelona has become a set piece, far from the raucous port town it used to be. Madrid seems like an international shopping mall.

Asturias, however, remains regional, strong flavored, authentic. Menus in English are hard to find in Oviedo, and until recently they were all but absent elsewhere in the region. José Andrés —the Asturian-born, Washington, D.C. -based chef who has become a global sensation—wants to open a restaurant not far from where he lived as a child. If he does, I’m betting it won’t have an English menu either.

Asturias’s two largest cities are polar opposites. Oviedo, like many inland cities, tends to be insular, conservative, overtly polite, and socially inaccessible. Gijón is a port town, working-class and occasionally profane, but open to the sea and new ideas. Oviedo has an opera house and a full program to fill it. Gijón prefers its series of avant-garde festivals. I’m pleased that one of those festivals, Jazz Xixón, is under way at the Teatro Jovellanos when I arrive. I buy a ticket to see the Portico Quartet , an experimental band that was nominated for Britain’s Mercury Prize; other headliners will include the playful Spanish group El Viaje del Swing (The Journey of Swing). It’s easy to spot the blazing neon sign for Teatro Jovellanos, mounted high above the pedestrian mall of Paseo Begoña. Inaugurated in 1899, the theater was renovated shortly after the fall of ruler Francisco Franco in 1975 and bought by Gijón in 1995. It has served as a cultural centerpiece since.

I find Tonio Criado, the festival’s director, standing in the lobby underneath an enormous crystal chandelier. Criado grew up in a small inland town near Cangas de Onís before moving to Gijón. Now he wouldn’t live anywhere else.

“It’s the youngest city in the region, and the freshest,” he says. “You find that in our music, our cuisine, and our way of life.” When I ask him whether he feels more Spanish or Asturian, he doesn’t hesitate. “Oh, Asturian,” he says. “But really, I am from Gijón. What we are doing here couldn’t happen in Oviedo.”

The following morning I visit the Museum of the Asturian People , which sits just east of downtown Gijón. It sounds like a Cold War tourist attraction in an Eastern-bloc capital, but actually it’s a re-creation of a traditional Asturian village. The grounds include a 17th-century peasant house, a covered alley where the recreational bowling game called cuatreada is played, a bagpipe museum (bagpipes are a common musical instrument in Asturias and Galicia ), and several of the granaries—called hórreos —that are ubiquitous in the area. Inside the exhibition space, the topic of the day is food. I am astonished to see how rudimentary the kitchens were, even in urban areas, into the 1950s and 1960s.

Many of the dishes made in those kitchens are now served at Esther Manzano’s restaurant, La Salgar, named after the Manzanos’ hometown. A modern glass box attached to the museum, the restaurant isn’t officially affiliated with it, but their missions are aligned. If Casa Marcial is where the Manzano family adds an Asturian element to high gastronomy, La Salgar rewards Asturians with deliciously familiar food amid Gijón’s clamor. The idea was to have local diners taste quintessential versions of dishes they’ve been eating all their lives, such as arroz con pitu, a version of chicken, rice, and red pepper that every Asturian remembers from childhood. “Dishes of the home,” Esther declares, “served in a restaurant.”

Caves, wines, and more discoveries

Like San Francisco and Scotland , bad weather suits Asturias. I leave Gijón and head east along the coast under a steady drizzle. In August, Ribadesella attracts Spaniards who are desperate for a respite from oppressive heat. In November, with rain misting a cool morning, it becomes a particularly lovely local fishing village. Kids splash through puddles in the streets. Adults walk dogs. Shop owners stand in the doorways greeting friends.

Fashioned with locally mined pink limestone, the Basilica de Santa María la Real de Covadonga rises near the Holy Cave and its Virgin of Covadonga.

Built in the 9th century as a royal palace, Santa Maria del Naranco, in Oviedo, became a church in later years. In 1985, UNESCO designated the pre-Romanesque-style building a World Heritage site.

Not far away is the Tito Bustillo Cave , site of one of the more remarkable discoveries of the last century. In 1968 a group of amateur spelunkers realized that falling rocks many centuries before had sealed an opening of a cave. They returned with full gear and managed to make their way inside. When they did, they were surprised to discover that one cave opened onto another, and then another. On the walls, they found a magnificent series of cave drawings, dating back more than 10,000 years. Another mysterious drawing was made some 30,000 years ago, according to carbon dating.

Although the site has been validated by waves of experts, its existence continues to raise more questions than have been answered. Why, I find myself wondering, were drawings made in precisely the same place some 20,000 years apart?

I ponder that over lunch 15 minutes to the north, on a spit of beach. Güeyu Mar restaurant is a glorified shack marked by a huge plastic kingfish mounted over the doorway. Abel Alvarez, chef and owner, has been grilling fish here since 2007.

His menu consists of whatever the boats have brought in that day, supplemented by seafood in metal tins that Alvarez has preserved himself. There’s no meat of any kind, nor rice or potatoes, just seafood and local vegetables and excellent bread rolls. I eat razor clams and sardines, then grilled cockles and kingfish. I drink Asturian wine, which barely existed a decade ago, from the inland winery Dominio del Urogallo, the best of the few producers clustered on the western side of the province. The blend of three local red grape varieties has the stony freshness that I usually associate with cool-climate whites. Crisp and salty, it tastes like the sea.

Rain is falling again; when I step outside I see a vivid rainbow arcing from the trees atop the steep hills down to the water. Then I pivot inland. I stop in the hill town of Cangas de Onís, where a much photographed Roman bridge spans an unhurried stream.

From there the next morning, it’s a short trip to Covadonga, which is one of the most historic spots in Spain. You could make the argument that modern Spain began when the advance of the Moors was halted here by the Visigoth nobleman Pelagius, the founder of the Kingdom of Asturias, in 718.

A man makes the most of a Sunday afternoon in Playa de Cadavedo by taking a leisurely ride on a horse.

Playa del Silencio’s long, silver-coved beach is ideal for strolling, but not swimming due to the strong undercurrent.

Spaniards needed nearly 800 more years before they expelled the Moors, but the Battle of Covadonga marked the start of the reversal. The natural setting is breathtaking, with a serpentine road leading up a canyon, past a waterfall and then a small shrine. At the top, shimmering above the mist, rises the majestic, pink-stone Basilica of Santa María la Real de Covadonga .

I’ve visited before, but hadn’t taken the time to drive to the lakes above Covadonga in the Picos de Europa (Peaks of Europe) National Park. Now up another winding road I go, bound for those lakes. Trees fall away, and the view opens to a wide sky of cotton ball clouds.

More experiences: Try these lesser-known hiking trails in Europe .

Then I hear bells. They start softly, but soon their metallic jangle has drowned out the car radio. I round a bend and see sheep, what looks like several hundred of them, painstakingly crossing the road in front of a line of stopped cars.

I park and walk into the nearby brush, inhaling air so fresh that it sends a jolt of sharpness into my chest. The spiky peaks of the mountain silently surround me from a distance; all I hear is the din of the sheep bells, sounding like church bells ringing at high noon. A driver honks a horn in frustration, but that only makes the sheep stop in their tracks. With great deliberation, they look around. Satisfied that they can proceed, they resume their shuffle.

Eventually the stragglers get across. By now, the traffic probably snakes around the bend and halfway down the mountain. I see the cars start to move, but I can’t walk back just yet. The bells clank and the air crackles and the peaks look like cathedral spires. Around me is a sea of sheep with no shepherd in sight. I’ve never been anywhere like this. I don’t want to leave.

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51 Best Things to Do in Asturias, Spain – Ultimate Travel Guide

Planning your trip to Asturias? Or just checking to see if you should add Asturias to your bucket list?

I’ve got you covered . We’ll see all the best things to do in Asturias, Spain.

This includes the most epic hikes , the best beaches , cool cities to explore and great cultural experiences . 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Where is Asturias in Spain

Where to stay near the best places to visit in asturias, your asturias travel guide, best hikes in asturias, best beaches in asturias, best cities in asturias, best cultural experiences in asturias, map of asturias things to do, asturias climate, visit asturias, spain.

The Principality of Asturias ( Principado de Asturias ) is one of the 17 autonomous communities of Spain. It’s located in the north west of the country, and is part of Northern Spain.

Asturias has borders with 3 other autonomous communities:

• Cantabria to the east
• Castile and León to the south
• Galicia to the west

Ready to discover Asturias? Here are the 3 main locations I recommend for your stay in Asturias:

• Picos de Europa National Park : THE best place to stay for hiking in Asturias! I recommend the Hostal Poncebos as the perfect homebase, the Hotel Picos de Europa for a comfy stay, and Casa Rural Priena to be right next to the Covadonga Lakes.
• Gijón : the biggest city in Asturias, centrally located and close to all main locations; perfect to mix architecture & nature and to experience the local nightlife. See the best hotels in Gijón
• Ribadesella : a coastal city right next to Picos de Europa, with easy access to plenty of beaches. See the best hotels in Ribadesella

Alright, let’s answer the question “What to do in Asturias, Spain?”. Asturias is a region mostly famous for its outdoors, so the guide focuses heavily on this side of travel. However there are also a few cool cities to discover, and of course great cultural experiences to be had.

Here are the 4 main things we’ll cover:

• Cultural experiences

Ready to learn what to see in Asturias, Spain? Let’s get to it!

There’s no shortage of great hikes in Asturias, and you could definitely spend quite a while in this region of Spain exploring all of the trails. The 2 main hiking areas are Picos de Europa, and Somiedo.

Picos de Europa was the first National Park in Spain, and it has the most hikes in my top 21 hikes in Asturias (10 out of 21).

Somiedo is a Natural Park , and is great for outdoors adventures & to see wild animals. It also has a lot of hikes in my best hikes list (4 out of 21).

Here are the best hikes in Asturias:

Lagos de Covadonga

The Covadonga lakes are for sure the most popular destination in Picos de Europa, and possibly in Asturias. These 2 lakes used to form the center of the Picos de Europa National Park, which has now expanded.

You can drive right up to the lakes, and go on a easy hike around the lakes. It’s a well-maintained path, family-friendly, and even if the hike is short I ended up spending the whole day there anyway.

Lagos de Covadonga Hike

Ruta del Cares

While it’s hard to beat the view of 2 alpines lakes, the landscapes of the Ruta del Cares hold their ground compared to the Lagos de Covadonga.

This day-hike is literally carved on the side of the mountain, and runs above the Cares river. You’ll get epic views all along the hike, and you’ll probably meet some friendly goats to keep you company.   

Ruta de Lagos de Saliencia

Want more lakes? Well you’re in luck, because Asturias has exactly what you need: the Lagos de Saliencia .

Located in the Somiedo Natural Park, the Lagos de Saliencia are 3 alpines lakes, right next from one another. Not as famous as other locations, but trust me it’s one of the best things to see in Asturias, Spain.

Best of all? You don’t need to hike for 10 hours straight to see them! There’s a parking lot right next to the lakes, and you can get to the first one within minutes. If you’re game, you can combine this hike with the Lago del Valle hike ; cross to the next valley to check another epic mountain lake.

Bufones de Pria Loop

Let’s move away from the 2 main hiking hotspots in Asturias, and hit the coast for this next hike: the Bufones de Pria loop.

The Bufones de Pria are massive geysers, where waves get through holes in the cliffs and blow up insanely high in the air.

Jose Luis Canales / CC BY NC

The hike starts from the geysers, and runs along the coast towards Ribadesella. On the way you have great views of the rugged cliffs, and you’ll discover some nice rock formations.

Xiblu Waterfall Hike

Let’s move south for the next hike, next to the border between Asturias and Castile and León.

The Cascada del Xiblu is a nice waterfall deep in the forest, and you’ll need to hike a bit to reach it. It’s one of the most off-the-beaten track adventures in Spain , and a great way to escape the crowds. 

The hike to the waterfall is also pretty sweet in itself, and depending on the time of year you’ll have different experiences: mysterious fog, fall colors, whistling birds, …

More Hikes in Asturias

I’ve listed above 5 of my favorite hikes in Asturias, but there are much more. If you plan to spend several days in Asturias, or if you want more ideas for hikes, check out my favorite hiking trails below:

• Poncebos to Bulnes
• Full circuit Poncebos – Bulnes – Sotres – Tielve – Poncebos
• Ruta Puertos de Aliva in Fuente Dé
• Horcados Rojos Summit
• Vega de Ario
• Brez Canal de Arredondas
• Ordiales Scenic Balcony Trail
• Lago del Valle Hike
• La Pornacal from Villar de Vildas
• Puerto de Somiedo to El Cornón
• Cabo Vidio Loop
• Llanes to Playa de Poo
• Ruta de la Cascada de Seimeira
• Ruta de las Xanas
• Tabayon Waterfall Trail

HIKING GUIDE: 21 Best Hikes in Asturias

Tired of walking too much? Let’s hit the beach and relax!

The coast of Asturias is known as the Costa Verde (Green Coast), and it’s full of incredible beaches . Except a few of them which are very popular, there’s a good amount of wild beaches with little to no crowds.

Here are the best ones:

Playa de Santa Marina

The first beach on the list is the Playa de Santa Marina, a long golden sand beach located in the coastal town Ribadesella.

It’s part of the popular beaches in Asturias, and it’s right in the heart of the town, so expect crowds. But the beach is long enough to find a cool spot for you and your loved ones, and the view from the beach is pretty impressive.

Amenities : showers, toilets, lifeguards, surf rental, food & drinks

Location : Playa de Santa Marina, Ribadesella

Playa del Silencio

Playa del Silencio (Silence Beach) is as the name implies a very calm beach, away from the crowds on most days. It has no amenities, and it requires a short hike downhill to reach, which is enough to deter big crowds.

The beach itself is made of stones & pebbles, but the view and the water clarity more than make up for it.

Read more:  Guide to Playa del Silencio

Amenities : /

Location : Playa del Silencio, Cudillero

Playa de la Cueva

Third up on the list is more than just 1 beach, it’s actually a place as a whole. The Playa de la Cueva is located in Cabo Vidio, a cape with a little lighthouse.

The whole area around the lighthouse is full of pretty beaches, epic views and spots to relax. All of this makes it one of the best places to visit in Asturias.

Read more:  Guide to Cabo Vidio

Location : Playa de la Cueva, Oviñana

Playa de Torimbia

The Playa de Torimbia is one of these beaches that made me say “Wait that’s in Spain?!”. It looks like a beach from a tropical island, and the crystal clear water certainly has much to do with it. 

It’s a popular beach, and particularly loved by nudists, even though it’s not officially a strictly-nudist beach. Answer is yes, you can go there with clothes on.

Jaime E. Osorio / CC BY-SA

Amenities : showers, lifeguards, beach bar in high season

Location : Playa de Torimbia

Playon de Bayas

Next up is Playon de Bayas, the longest beach in Asturias. This 2,800 meters long beach (1.7 miles) has more than enough space to be comfortable, even on hot summer days when the locals flood to the beach.

The beach has great waves, and you can even rent a surfboard directly on the beach if you’re up for a riding session.

Oscar F. Hevia / CC BY-NC-ND

Amenities : showers, lifeguards, surf rental

Location : Playon de Bayas

More Beaches in Asturias

I’ve listed above 5 of my favorite beaches in Asturias, but there are much more. If you plan to spend several days in Asturias, or if you want more ideas for beaches, check out my favorite beaches below:

• Ballota Beach
• Playa de Cuevas del Mar
• Playa de Gulpiyuri
• Playa de Rodiles
• Playa de la Griega
• Playa de la Atalaya
• Playa del Sablón
• Playa de Toró
• Playa de San Antolín
• Playa de Guadamía
• Playa de la Franca
• Playa de Cadavedo
• Playa de Poo

BEACH GUIDE: 19 Best Beaches in Asturias

Pretty sure you got your nature fix by now, with these 21 hikes and 19 beaches. How about we see some of the beautiful cities Asturias has to offer now?

Ribadesella

Ribadesella is a small coastal city, with around 6,000 inhabitants. The town is mainly famous for its unique position at the end of the Sella river, in between the river and the sea, with the Picos de Europa mountains in the background.

The town is a hub for outdoors activities: surf, hiking, biking, canoe in the river, and much more. It’s also home to one of the most popular Asturias tourist attractions, the Cueva de Tito Bustillo: a UNESCO World Heritage cave with prehistoric paintings on the walls, from 29,000 BC.

TRAVEL GUIDE: 15 Things to Do in Ribadesella

Find the best hotels in Ribadesella : Ribadesella Recommended Hotels

Llanes is another coastal town, and its historical center is one of the most gorgeous in Asturias. There’s plenty of things to do in the town itself: go play at the casino, visit the medieval tower or the Duque de Estrada’s palace.

The main beach in town is the Playa del Sablón, a half-circle beach right below the cliffs of the village.

Ego Irizar / CC BY-NC

Travel Guide: Llanes Tourism

Find the best hotels in Llanes : Llanes Recommended Hotels

Oviedo is the capital of Asturias, and obviously I had to include it in this list. It’s a great city to visit to immerse yourself in Asturian culture, whether it’s getting a taste of the local food or enjoying festivals & exhibitions.

The Old Town is the main attraction in town, with beautiful buildings from the Middle Ages, and the famous Oviedo Cathedral towering above the streets.

Travel Guide: What to Do in Oviedo

Find the best hotels in Oviedo : Oviedo Recommended Hotels

While Oviedo is Asturias capital city, Gijón is the most populated city in the Principality. This harbor town has a pretty special feel, where new & old peacefully coexist.

The Plaza Mayor and Playa de San Lorenzo will take you back in time with Roman architecture. On the other side of town you’ll find an artificial beach (Playa de Poniente) and modern buildings.

All parts of town are lively, and it’s a great city to combine sunbathing on the beach, visiting the Old Town and partying.

Travel Guide:  15 Things to Do in Gijon

Find the best hotels in Gijon : Gijon Recommended Hotels

And finally, the last city in this Asturias guide: Cudillero. It’s a tiny fishing village, tucked away on the Costa Verde, often overlooked. This colorful village is definitely worth a visit. On one hand you’ll enjoy the gorgeous view over the village, and on the other hand you’ll discover a typical Asturian fishing village.

And when you’re ready to leave the village, there are plenty of splendid beaches in the area, including Cabo Vidio and Playa del Silencio less than 20mn away.

Travel Guide: Discover Cudillero

Find the best hotels in Cudillero : Cudillero Recommended Hotels

More Cities in Asturias

I’ve listed above 5 of my favorite cities in Asturias, but there are much more. If you plan to spend several days in Asturias, or if you want more ideas for cities and small towns, check them out below:

• Covadonga and Covadonga Sanctuary (Basilica de Santa Maria la Real)

We’ve seen hikes, beaches and cities, and by now you probably have enough things on your list to plan a great Asturias trip. To finish off this Asturias travel guide, let’s see what goes hand in hand with discovering a place: the cultural experiences.

Try the local cuisine

Whether you go hike in the mountains or spend time in one of the major cities, you’ll be able to try some of that sweet Asturian cuisine. Asturias is a region that produces a lot of local products, and it’s mostly known for its cheese, meat and seafood. 

The classical cheese is known as Cabrales , a blue cheese made from cow, goat and sheep milk.

As you’ll see when roaming the hills & mountains of Asturias, there are a lot of animals: cows, sheeps and goats. Asturian shepherds produce some great quality meat, and locals eat an absolutely enormous amount of meat! 

And of course there’s great seafood in Asturias, with a lot of coastal villages living from the sea. You can order a marisco , a big old seafood platter that includes lobster, crab, clams, mussels, & more!

Drink sidra and learn how to pour it

Cider is a real tradition in Asturias. The Asturian cider is known as sidra , and it’s made with local apples. This kind of cider is pretty special, as it doesn’t have any gas, and the acidity of the apples is very strong.

To avoid the acid taste, the locals have a very special way of pouring the sidra: they put the bottle high above their head, and pour it in the glass they hold at their waist. When the cider crashes in the glass below, it oxygenates the cider and removes the acidity for a short while.

They serve you a culín , which is only a small quantity of cider in your glass. You need to chug the cider instantly, and then they’ll serve you again a drop of that sweet local cider.

Zulio / CC BY

You can try your hand at pouring cider, and you’ll notice the terraces of the restaurants are always wet from all the cider poured on the ground.

Learn Asturian

Truth is, almost all Asturian speak Spanish. If you speak Spanish, you won’t have any problem at all getting around in Asturias. More and more people speak English, but it’s mostly young adults; English is not that spread out among the older generation.

You’ll be fine in most cities & near main Asturias attractions. But if you go deep in the mountains and countryside, you’ll probably have to talk with your hands to get your point across.

In any case, it’s always fun to learn a few local words, and locals will appreciate you making the effort. Here are a few Asturian words:

• Hello = Hola
• How are you? = Como tas?
• Sorry = Perdón
• How much? = Cuanto?

If you’re with a friend, try this one: Esti señor va pagor por too (this guy will pay for everything). Señor for a guy and señora for a girl.

Damn, that was quite a lot of things! To make it easy for you to plan your trip, I’ve put all of these epic things to do in Asturias on a custom map.

And yes, it’s available for free.

To get my map of Asturias things to do , simply click on the image below to open it in Google Maps. Then click on the “star” icon to save it to your own maps.

Asturias is a diverse region, and as such the Asturias climate is also pretty diverse.

Due to its proximity to the sea, it’s never freezing cold nor burning hot. The climate is cool, with mild winters and warm summers. There’s usually a fair share of wind regardless of the season, so make sure to pack some windbreaker or scarf.

Fog is a common phenomenon, and can quickly appear; same thing for rain and thunderstorms. The climate can rapidly change, and go from warm to cold, windy and rainy.

More details:  Asturias Climate

Weather forecast:  Picos de Europa | Ribadesella | Oviedo

Planning a trip to Asturias and Spain? You can find below several other articles about this wonderful part of the world to help you plan your trip.

Asturias Guides:

• The massive Hiking Guide : Best Hikes in Asturias
• The Picos de Europa hiking guide: Hiking Picos de Europa
• Somiedo Natural Park guide: What to Do in Somiedo
• Beaches guide: Best Beaches in Asturias

And finally, if you need more inspiration , see all my Spain travel guides

I hope you enjoy your trip to Asturias and to Spain; if you have any questions, let me know in the comments below, I always reply.

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Hey, I'm Kevin

I'm a professional photographer, with over a decade of experience in the travel industry. I worked with countless travel brands, and my travel advice has been featured in major publications such as CNN, Forbes & the New York Magazine. But the best travel advice is definitely found here on my website! I'm all about adventure travel, hiking and exploring the outdoors - even if I often find myself exploring cities with my wife Nesrine. If you have any questions, leave a comment on this post or reach out by email at: [email protected]

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Wow, I am impressed. I have come across your info looking up some info, since I have already been hiking and climbing in this area 25 years ago and want to go back there. You have really found some of the most beautiful spots there and described them well, with relevant info. Beehunter

Thank you so much for your comment! We’re very pleased to know this post helps and is approved by experience travelers in the area 🙂

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The Ultimate 5 to 7 Days in Asturias Itinerary

Published on January 31, 2024

by Neota Langley

Disclaimer: This article contains affiliate links. That means if you click a link and make a purchase, we may make a small commission. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. For more information, see our privacy policy.

Discover the secret side of Spain by planning a 5 to 7 days in Asturias itinerary. The official slogan is  “Asturias, paraíso natural” (Asturias, natural paradise) and there is no better way to describe this region on the north coast of Spain.

A real hidden gem, this region is well and truly off the beaten track. You won’t find the usual crowded beaches synonymous with Spain here, this is where the Spanish spend their holidays. Gastronomical delights paired with incredible vistas, endless hiking trails and pristine beaches.

Spend your days exploring the local gems before settling in to indulge in the region’s famed Asturian cider, smoky bean stews, and fresh seafood harvested from its abundant coastal waters.

Table of Contents

How Many Days in Asturias?

Asturias is a region covering over 10,000 square kilometres so deciding how long you need to get the most out of the area can be tricky.

You could easily spend endless weeks and months delving into the beauty and history of this region and taking in cities like Oviedo or Gijón , but 5 to 7 days is the sweet spot for an adventurous holiday into the hidden side of Spain that you will never forget.  

With 5 days in Asturias, you will have plenty of time to visit traditional Spanish fishing villages, vibrant cities and head inland to discover the dramatic Picos De Europa National Park. Hike your way through the mountains and watch the sunset over the cliffs on the wild coastline.

For the first 5 days of our Asturias itinerary, we will be focused on the eastern side of the region, slowly traversing towards the west. You won’t have time to see everything this region has to offer but by following this itinerary, you’ll get to visit the hotspots. 

If you have additional time to spend in Spain and want to extend your holiday to 7 days, this will give you a little more time to delve deeper. Discover the far reaches of the region in the lesser-known national park Somiedo and explore the coastline along the western edge of Asturias, bordering Galicia.

Getting To & Around Asturias

Asturias is a more off-the-beaten-path destination, making it perfect for those seeking an authentic sense of adventure, but does this mean it is harder to get to and around?

While public transport links may not be as plentiful as the more built up regions, it is still possible to visit, especially with local tours such as this full-day tour that pick you up and whisk you away deep into the mountains, no car required.

However, if you want to travel independently and follow the route outlined below, then it’s going to be necessary to have your own vehicle to get around the region. You can browse Rentalcars.com to compare prices for hire cars across several companies.

To reach Asturias, you have several options. If you are travelling from further afield, you will most likely be boarding an aeroplane.

There is an airport in Asturias itself but it is very small and only offers a handful of destination options so you may have to make use of the nearby Santander Airport or the larger Madrid airport then either hire a car or use public transport to reach your final destination.

If you are already in Europe, you can take a train to Asturias from most major cities in Spain. The biggest train station in Asturias is in Oviedo, providing easy access to the rest of the region from cities like Madrid . You can browse schedules here.

Buses also connect various Spanish cities to Asturias. If you are visiting during the off-season however it is worth noting there will be a reduced service so make sure to check up-to-date timetables before heading off. 

If you’re coming from the UK or Ireland, you can take a ferry to Santander or Bilbao and then drive or take public transportation to Asturias. This ferry takes 31 hrs however so it is by no means the fastest route. This does mean you could bring your own vehicle however, perfect if you are travelling by campervan. 

If you are an avid hiker, you will have heard of the pilgrimage route, the Camino de Santiago. This famous long distance hike traverses the northern half of Spain from the mountains of the Pyrenees to the city of Santiago De Compostela. The Northern Way (Camino del Norte) passes through Asturias, offering a unique way to explore the area.

5 to 7-Day Asturias Itinerary

This region has it all, plenty of high-octane adventures for the adrenaline seekers and endless beaches for those who prefer to sit back and relax with a glass of local sidra and some delicious tapas. 

Day 1 – Explore the East Coast

There’s so much to see and do along the Asturian coast. Endless beaches, dramatic cliffs, quaint fishing villages and hillside olive groves. The best way to see as much as possible is by taking a full day meandering along the coastal road on the ultimate Asturias road trip.

Lastres 

Perched on steep cliffs, Lastres is a charming fishing village straight out of a storybook. Breathtaking views of the Cantabrian Sea, blending maritime charm with dramatic landscapes.

Wander through cobbled streets, taking in the colourful houses adorned with vibrant flowers while fishing boats bob gently in the harbour.

Lastres is a haven for seafood enthusiasts, offering fresh catches at seaside restaurants. For the best views of the village, along the coastline and even across to the Picos de Europa mountain range, drive up to the Mirador de San Roque viewpoint.

Ribadesella

Another picturesque town along the coast, cradled between the Cantabrian Sea and the imposing Sierra del Sueve mountains, Ribadesella is home to cobbled streets adorned with traditional Asturian architecture, landmarks like the Church of Santa Maria and pristine sandy beaches, including the renowned Santa Marina Beach.

As you would expect from another fishing village, the cuisine on offer here is based around fresh seafood. Ribadesella is also a gateway to nature, with plenty of nearby excursions, hikes and cultural experiences such as exploring the stunning Tito Bustillo Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage site showcasing prehistoric art.

Bufones de Pria

A true natural spectacle, these sea geysers send powerful jets of water high into the air, accompanied by an exhilarating symphony of echoing roars. Carved into chimneys in the cliff by the relentless force of the Cantabrian sea, these blowholes are mesmerising to watch. 

The best time to visit is at high tide, especially on a wild stormy day. This is when you will get the best show but this beautiful stretch of coastline is still worth visiting regardless of the tide and the weather. 

Gulpiyuri Beach

There are endless rocky coves, sandy beaches and harbours along this varied coastline. It’s difficult to pick just one to visit but the most intriguing by far is the Playa de Gulpiyuri. It is a true hidden gem. Technically classed as an ‘inland beach’ this natural marvel is tucked between limestone cliffs.

Gulpiyuri is a small, circular inlet connected to the Cantabrian Sea through underground caves. The turquoise waters gently lap against a small area of golden shore, a true tranquil oasis surrounded by lush greenery.

The final destination on our road trip along the east coast and the most convenient place to stay for the next 3 nights is Llanes. Llanes’ historic centre is truly enchanting, home to mediaeval architecture and the iconic Cubes of Memory, a modern art installation overlooking the sea.

Wander through cobbled streets, discovering quaint shops and traditional cider houses. Then, after indulging in the catch of the day, the best way to end the day is by taking a stroll to watch the sunset at one of the many beautiful sandy beaches accessible from the village including Playa de Toro and Playa de Sablón.

Where to Stay in Llanes

Don Paco – A cosy hotel in a converted convent, this is a great mid-range option in Llanes. They have free parking, double and family rooms available, an on-site restaurant and bar and a fab breakfast daily.

Apartamentos Turísticos Llanes – These apartments are a good choice for those after their own flat in Llanes. There are one-bedroom and studio options available, some with balconies or terraces.

Albergue La Estación – An excellent budget option, this hostel has a great, central location, kitchen facilities, a living room and dorms and private rooms available.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Llanes hotels!

Day 2 – Hiking in the Picos De Europa

Ruta del cares.

Easily one of the most unique hikes in the whole of Europe, this route that weaves along the side of the Picos de Europa mountains is one you will never forget.

The most popular section starts in Poncebos, continuing for 12km until you reach Caín. It’s an out-and-back, 24 km full-day hike but if you wanted to do a shorter walk, you could easily turn around halfway. 

The route runs through the deep-sided Cares River gorge, the path precariously perched on the side of the cliff, tunnelling through caves, ancient bridges and past abandoned villages alongside plenty of mountain goats.

There really is no other hike quite like it, every corner you turn is jaw-dropping. It’s worth noting, the deep ravines, narrow paths and sheer drops are best suited to hikers with a good head for heights. 

Head back to Llanes for the evening after your hike. There may be minimal elevation gain on the hike but 24 km is a fair distance so you are bound to have worked up an appetite. Settle in for an evening in one of Llanes’ many restaurants and rest before heading back into the mountains on day 3.     

Day 3 – Covadonga

Covadonga .

Nestled deep within the Picos de Europa range, Covadonga is a hidden mountain village near the with a profound cultural and spiritual significance. You can get here by this full-day tour or this full-day tour if you’re not driving.

The focal point is the Covadonga Sanctuary, a historical building cut into the side of a rock face where the Basilica of Santa María la Real and the Holy Cave pay homage to the legendary Battle of Covadonga in 722 CE. 

The village itself is fairly small, with just one restaurant, a smattering of local homes and a few hotels. It is worth stopping in Covadonga to visit the Sanctuary but the main reason we have led you up this winding mountain road is our next stop, the Lakes of Covadonga.

Going to or from the village, make sure to make a stop in the nearby Cangas de Onís municipality where you can see the beautiful Roman Bridge in the village.

Lagos de Covadonga

Surrounded by lush meadows and craggy peaks, you will find two pristine glacial lakes—Enol and Ercina. Casting mirror perfect reflections of the limestone mountains that tower above them, these lakes are truly breathtaking. 

There is a short hike over the hill to view both lakes but if you want to explore more of this area’s endless natural beauty, this is the starting point for several excellent longer hikes. This is the perfect place to take a picnic, especially when the sun is shining – the grassy hillside provides excellent mountain views, ideal for enjoying some local cold meats, cheese (including the noteworthy Cabrales Cheese) and wine. 

During the summer months the Covadonga lakes are only accessible via shuttle bus from the village of Covadonga. Outside of the peak tourism season, you can drive up in your own vehicle. 

After another day exploring the best of the Picos de Europa National Park, it’s time to head back to Llanes. This is your last evening in this picturesque coastal town so if you are a food enthusiast, tonight is the perfect night to go all out in the town’s Michelin Star restaurant El Retiro . A family run restaurant with a keen focus on traditional Asturian cuisine, cooked to perfection.   

Day 4 – Gijón

San lorenzo beach.

Our itinerary continues in the region’s largest city, Gijon. Perched along the coast, right in the centre of the region this maritime city is the central hub of Asturias. Here you will get a real feel for the more metropolitan side of the region, indulge in delicious Spanish cuisine and discover the history of this mediaeval city.  

Take a leisurely morning walk to San Lorenzo Beach, one of Gijón’s most iconic stretches of sand. The sea breeze, lapping waves, and the stunning views of the Bay of Biscay. If you’re feeling adventurous, consider a refreshing morning swim or simply relax with a cup of ‘cafe con leche’ on the golden sands.

Cimavilla, the historic old town of Gijón is not to be missed. Explore its narrow streets filled with charming local stores and restaurants.

Try a traditional sidrería for lunch, where you can taste the local cider and indulge in Asturian specialities like fabada (bean stew) or fresh seafood dishes caught that morning off the coast. There are multiple museums, galleries and the 18th-century Revillagigedo Palace to explore throughout the afternoon. 

For unbeatable views of the bay, especially as the sun begins to set, take a stroll up the cobbled paths and through the lush green park to Santa Catalina hill. At the summit you will find Elogio del Horizonte, created by the sculptor Eduardo Chillida. This is the perfect place to enjoy a tranquil escape from the urban bustle. 

After watching the sunset, it’s time to explore the vibrant nightlife scene here in the region’s largest city. Explore the bars and pubs around Plaza Mayor and Cimavilla for a taste of the local nightlife. From traditional Asturian cider houses to modern cocktail bars, there is something to suit everyone. 

To make the most out of the city and its nightlife, you will want to find accommodation in or around Gijon. Because of its central position, you could easily opt to stay in this coastal city for the rest of your trip. 

Where to Stay in Gijón

Hotel Alcomar – Overlooking the seaside promenade, this hotel has plenty of comfortable rooms on offer along with a daily breakfast, 24-hour reception and a bar for guests to enjoy.

El Môderne Hotel – A chic, modern hotel in the centre of Gijón, there are double rooms and suites to choose from. There is also a daily buffet breakfast and a fitness centre.

Apartamentos Bahia San Lorenzo – These seafront apartments are a great self-catering option in Gijón. There are one- and two-bedroom flats on offer and the property has a lot of amenities to offer guests.

Gijón Surf Hostel – Centrally located in Gijón, this hostel is great for backpackers. There are several dorms to choose from along withe nice communal areas and a shared kitchen to prepare meals.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Gijón hotels!

Day 5 – Oviedo

Oviedo old town.

The official capital city of the Asturias region, Oviedo is another picturesque city that you don’t want to miss. With traditional stone houses, flower-filled courtyards, and narrow winding streets, you would be forgiven for thinking you had been transported to a bygone era.

Begin your day by strolling through the charming streets of Oviedo either independently or on a walking tour . Admiring the rustic architecture along the way.

Visit the central square, Plaza de Alfonso II and marvel at the 8th-century Cathedral of San Salvador. This sacred site has undergone various transformations over the centuries, blending Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance influences.

You can also take in the lovely Plaza del Fontán, another gorgeous square in the city.

Oviedo’s Countryside

Oviedo is not a coastal city but what it lacks in ocean views, it makes up for with lush countryside, rolling hills and towering mountains on the horizon.

You can either head out into the pastures beyond the city streets for a relaxing stroll or, for some green spaces within the city itself, head to the central Park San Francisco. 

If you choose to head outside of the city centre, than make sure to make a stop at the Iglesia de San Miguel de Lillo, a 9th-century church that is absolutely beautiful. Nearby, there is the Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco, also constructed in the 9th century.

Visit a Sidrería

Asturias is synonymous with sidra (Spanish for cider), a drink made from fermented apples. This historic beverage is part of the foundations of this region, and is part of local culture and folk law.

If you have reached day 5 of this itinerary and have not yet sampled a glass, Oviedo is the place to do it. Gascona is a street right in the centre of the city, full of traditional Sidrerías.

Make sure to watch the bar person pour the sidra, it’s usually done from a great height to create bubbles and can be quite the spectacle. 

If you have 5 days to devote to your itinerary for Asturias, Oviedo is the perfect place to end your trip. From here, you have convenient access to airports and public transport options for your onward journey. 

Day 6 – Somiedo Mountains

Located about 1.5 hours from Gijón, Somiedo is an incredible area to explore on a road trip through Asturias.

Declared a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO, this enchanting natural park is home to towering mountains, emerald lakes and traditional stone villages hidden amongst the hills. You can also take an organised tour here from Gijón or Oviedo.

This area is a haven for hikers, with endless trails to discover, meandering their way through dramatic landscapes, mountain villages and lush green valleys.

Lakes of Saliencia

The Lakes of Saliencia include three glacial lakes, perched high in the Somiedo mountains. The Valle del Lago route is a 11km day hike that leads you from the Alto la Farrapona car park through meadows and ancient forest to reach all three of the emerald lakes.

The elevation profile is moderate at just over 400m. Beyond these lakes, there is another, hidden up in a mountain combe. You could easily extend your walk to also include Lago del Valle but this will add another 8 km and over 600m of elevation. 

Pola de Somiedo

Spanish mountain villages have a certain charm to them, cobbled streets, old stone buildings and the friendliest locals. Pola de Somiedo is no exception, a quaint village in a breathtaking setting.

If you didn’t pack a picnic for your hike, this is a great place to grab a bite to eat before heading back into the mountains to discover the traditional stone cabins.

Wandering through the Somiedo National Park, you are likely to spot groups of small huts, scattered around lush pastures. These tiny houses were once used as shelters for shepherds who farmed these alpine meadows, usually with a flock of goats, sheep or cattle.

These alpine meadows, known as “brañas,” were rich in nutrients and had plenty of natural water sources but the unpredictable nature of the weather in mountainous regions meant the shepherds needed shelter, a home away from home. These thatched cottages, known as ‘teitos’, make the perfect place to hide out from the storms. 

There are several hiking trails that lead you to these abandoned mini villages but the most noteworthy are Saliencia, Mumián and Pornacal.

From here, you can either return to Gijón for the evening or opt to change accommodation to somewhere along the west coast. Cudillero is a beautiful small fishing town or you could head to the slightly larger Luarca.

Day 7 – West Coast of Asturias

Most of the sites on this day can be visited as part of an organised tour if you’re not driving.

Avilés is the third largest city in Asturias, after Gijón and Oviedo. The historical centre unfolds like a living museum, perfectly preserved mediaeval streets, buildings and the highlight, Plaza Mayor, surrounded by architectural gems like the Palacio de Ferrera and the Church of San Nicolás.

A captivating blend of the old and the new, Avilés is the perfect place to start your day before heading west along the coastline. Tuck into a fresh flaky pastry and a cup of coffee on the harbour before taking a stroll through the cobbled streets. Don’t forget to look up, the architecture here is particularly special. 

Our next stop on this trip to Asturias is the picture postcard village of Cudillero. A maze of colourful buildings adorned with vibrant flowers make up this little fishing village, built into the side of a steep hillside on the Cantabrian Sea.

Its narrow, winding streets lead to a bustling harbour filled with fishing boats and seafood restaurants. The iconic viewpoint, La Garita, offers a panoramic vista of the village and the Bay of Biscay. You can either climb up the metal staircase to the viewpoint from the harbour or, you can park in the car park at the top of the hill. 

Playa del Silencio

It wouldn’t be a coastal road trip without stopping in at one of the incredible beaches along the route. There are beaches along the Asturian coastline to suit everyone, from long stretches of white sands and turquoise waters to town beaches, close to amenities. 

Playa del Silencio is a real hidden gem, tucked away at the base of towering cliffs. Whilst this may not be the best beach for swimming and the shores are full of pebbles not soft white sand, this cove is one of the most spectacular on the entire north coast of Spain.

It is truly unique and could easily be mistaken for a screenshot from Jurassic Park. Huge cliffs covered in dense shrubs and if you are lucky, you may even spot the gigantic European Vultures flying overhead. 

To access this beach, you will have to walk down the side of the cliff – but don’t worry, there is a pathway with sturdy metal bannisters to hold onto.

Known as the “White Town on the Green Coast,” due to its natural setting and white buildings, Luarca is home to pristine beaches, a working harbour, and a charming old town. 

Before you lose the daylight, make sure to visit the Gardens of the Fonte Baxa. This botanical garden is the largest private botanical garden in Spain and is home to thousands of plant species as well as sculptures and water fountains.

This is the perfect place to end our road trip, especially if you happen to be passing through at dinner time, you don’t want to miss out on the locally caught seafood and traditional Asturian dishes. As the light fades, take an after-dinner stroll along the harbour. The atmospheric sparkling lights of the village to your right and the gentle sway of the ocean to your left. 

Have More Time?

If you have more than a week in Asturias, there are endless options to extend your stay. If you are an avid hiker, climber, mountain biker or general outdoor enthusiast, you may want to base yourself in the Picos de Europa National Park for longer than the 2 days in this itinerary.

Kayak or canoe your way down the famous Rio Sella River – originating in the Picos, you can travel the entire way down the river to the Cantabrian Sea. If you want to explore more of this mountain range, Potes is an excellent base. 

From the mountains to the sea, if you would prefer to spend your extra time exploring hidden coves, colourful fishing villages and the bustling towns along the coast, there are plenty of options. Visit the tiny port of Ortiguera, with its slate-roofed fisherman’s cottages amongst vegetable gardens or explore more of the many beaches.

Playa de Rodiles is considered to be not just one of the best beaches in Asturias but in the whole of Spain. Visit the white sands of the (optional) naturist beach, Playa de Torimbia or go off the beaten track to the smaller Playa de San Antonio.  

You could also continue either east or west to explore other regions in Northern Spain, including Galicia to the west or the Basque Country to the east, where you can visit historic cities or eat local cuisine in cities like San Sebastian .

Visiting the North of Spain feels as if you have stumbled upon one of the best-kept secrets in Europe. Asturias is home to the real trifecta, charming mediaeval towns and cities, rugged mountains and an incredible, varied coastline.

There is something in this region to suit everybody and, after a day of exploring, you get to tuck into some of the world’s best food. It doesn’t get any better than that.

Are you planning to visit Asturias? Have any questions about this itinerary? Let us know in the comments!

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About Neota Langley

Neota is a writer for The World Was Here First. Born and bred in Cornwall, she can usually be found with hiking boots on, ready to embark on an adventure. For the last 6 years, she has travelled throughout Europe in her self-built campervan with her trusty canine companion, Ivy. She loves exploring France, the Nordics and spending time in Alpine destinations.

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This Asturias Road Trip Itinerary Will Show You the Secret Side of Spain

November 24, 2022

Taste the green side of Spain with this Asturias road trip through the vivid peaks and crashing coast of the north. This itinerary also combines well with a road trip through Galicia.

See also the best road trips in Spain and don’t miss this guide on what to eat in Asturias.

Table of Contents

Why plan an Asturias road trip?

Asturias is still a hidden gem in Europe. An almost fairytale place where green cloaked mountains crash into the Cantabrian Sea. It’s a place for adventurers, with hiking paths, nature reserves, deserted coves, medieval villages and secret crypts riven into the rock.

All combined with an unmistakable identity. A place where cider sits next to tapas and hearty fadeba stews fire up the hearts of locals.

It’s a place that surprises me each time I visit. A place of natural beauty, yes, but also history at the heart of modern Spain. It helps, too, that it has some great spas and gorgeous hotels.

The winding roads and secret locations mean that the best way to explore the place is by car. So, I’ve gathered together the perfect itinerary for you to plan your Asturias road trip.

Disclosure – I last travelled to Spain in partnership with Green Spain and Traverse as part of the #inGreenSpain project. As ever, as always, I kept the right to write what I like. Otherwise, there’s just no point. Also, if you book or buy through any of the links on this page, we may earn a small affiliate commission at no extra cost to you Thank you!

What is Green Spain?

The autonomous region of Asturias is part of the “Green Coast”, a name given to an area that includes Cantabria, Galicia, Asturias and the Basque Country.

Not only green by nature, it’s green by development, too, with an eye on sustainability and a dislike of mass resorts. This Asturias road trip is designed for those who need a week far from the big cities, to inhale the air of the forest and get in touch with their inner selves again.

How to use this Asturias Road Trip Itinerary

If you’ve decided to go on a road trip through Northern Spain, you have two realistic options. Either rent a car and enjoy the freedom. Or book a guided tour and enjoy the stress free flow of knowledge.

I’ve travelled to Asturias a few times, now, and this itinerary is loosely based on my last trip, with a few tweaks here and there. If you’re a keen hiker, slow this down to a seven day itinerary, and give yourself more time on the trails.

You can follow it as an independent traveller or use it for inspiration to book onto a guided trip.

Ready for a new adventure? Let’s take a look at this Asturias Road Trip.

How to Get to Asturias

There are three main ways to reach this part of Spain: plane, bus, and train.

The easiest way to arrive in Asturias is by plane. The main airport (OVD) receives direct flights from Paris, Barcelona, Madrid, and London, and from here, there’s only a short drive to San Esteban de Pravia, where your road trip begins.

If you land in Madrid, one of your best options to reach Asturias is to take the bus. It is a cheap way of travelling, but you must be prepared to spend 5 hours on the road even before your trip begins.

Travel more comfortably from Madrid by train. Although the prices are higher, this route offers beautiful views that make up for it and Spanish trains are very comfortable.

Of course, you could start your road trip through Asturias right away if you land in Madrid or Barcelona. Rent a car and enjoy some of the best road trips in Spain.

How to Get Around Asturias

Asturias has small towns and villages, so you can simply walk or take a taxi or bus if your legs are too tired. Typically, the most you would pay for a taxi to get you from one side of a town to another is around £7.

Travelling between towns and villages is also simple and cheap, with buses departing every day early in the morning and running up to 11 PM. Trains are available, but it is more difficult to create an itinerary based on their schedule since there are not too many options.

Really, your best bet for independent travel in Asturias is to have your own wheels. Which is why most of this article is based on an Asturias road trip.

If you choose a tour, this is no longer your problem, of course, as the tour company will be in charge of the transfer services.

• Recommended reading: how to plan a road trip by yourself

Day 1: Arrive in Asturias

Your Asturias road trip begins at the airport with a quick transfer to San Esteban de Pravia. Either join your tour or pick up your rental car and start the 20 minute journey.

San Esteban de Pravia

This picturesque small town was once one of the most active on the peninsula due to its coal port, the first in Spain, which helped San Esteban’s economy to grow. Today, the loading docks and cranes are no longer used, but they stay in place as huge artefacts of what this port used to be, lending a certain nostalgia to the whole place.

Here, the longest river in the region, El Nalon, meets the Cantabrian Sea. Unsurprisingly, this results in great fresh fish and seafood, with monkfish a highlight.

San Esteban de Pravia is the starting point for the breathtaking Route of the Viewpoints, and this makes it the best place to start your Asturias itinerary.

Where to Stay in San Esteban de Pravia

El Gran Hotel Brillante – this fabulous hotel has spacious rooms and the best view over the sea. It recently went through an extensive renovation, so everything is brand new. The food is also great and traditional and the staff are friendly and helpful. Check availability for El Gran Hotel Brillante here.

Day 2: San Esteban de Pravia – Senda de los Miradores – Cudillero – Cadavedo – Cangas de Narcea

The second day of your Asturias itinerary takes you along the Nolan River to discover a stunning landscape with pine and eucalyptus groves, gorgeous viewpoints, and wild beaches. Lace up those hiking boots for a mild to moderate day on the trails.

Hermitage of the Holy Spirit

Start your day at Mirador del Espíritu Santo in San Esteban. The small chapel is situated on the highest point of the coastal path of Muros de Nalon and offers a stunning view over the Bay of Biscay. It is often used for weddings since it is easily accessible by road.

Senda de los Miradores: Hike the path of the viewpoints

From the chapel, your hike continues along the Senda de los Miradores, the path of the viewpoints. It travels along the coast of the Cantabrian Sea, through a portion of the Bajo Nalón region amid wild beauty and luxuriant forests. The Senda de los Miradores takes you further to the beaches of Focarón and Los Espinos, surrounded by the majestic mountain range of the Pico de Europa, sometimes shrouded in mist.

Prepare to breathe the freshest air in Europe as you cross the pine and eucalyptus forests to a calm rest area where you can have a sandwich and some tea and enjoy the scenery before getting ready to explore the Atalaya viewpoint.

You are once again high, looking at the dazzling waters of the Cantabrian Sea that blend with the sky at the horizon. From Atalaya, you can spot the Vidio lighthouse, once the only guide for the seamen sailing at night in this area. Look down to be dazzled by the roughness of three beaches: La Atalaya, La Conchiquina, and La Cazonera.

 As you leave the town of Muros del Nalón behind, you are welcomed into the same rich vegetation of pine trees and eucalyptus leading you to the end of this route, the Aguilar beach. Beautiful landscapes open up ready for the grand finale.

And only when you get very close to the beach, do you begin to understand how soft the sand is, even in the middle of this rocky land.

Cudillero: the rainbow fishing town

Allegedly founded by the Vikings, the cute and curious town of Cudillero reaches from the sea up along the mountains in a terracotta wave of tumbling, characteristic houses. The word cudillero means “elbow” and once you’ve climbed to the main viewpoint and gazed back down at the time, you can see why. In the peak season, Cudillero is one of the most popular tourist spots. But even in the early days of September, the crowds subside and you’ll have the place to yourself. Keep an ear out for the local language pixueto and look for the local gems, the quiastolita. These natural stones show the shape of the Celtic cross when they’re sliced in two.

Cadavedo, Valdés

The next stop is in this small village in Valdés, which in 1954 was awarded the title of “Most Beautiful People of Asturias” and in 2022 the “Exemplary village of the Princess of Asturias Awards”. Cadavedo is famous for its many hórreos, some rustic granaries specific to Asturias, and its Indian architecture. 

Its stunning Ermita de la Regalina is also a main attraction. This church clings to a grassy headland surrounded only by the beauty of the mountains and the sandy beaches that slide into the sea.

In Cadavedo, you have the chance to meet those who take the famous El Camino de Santiago (also known as the way of St James) going from San Sebastian to Santiago de Compostela.

Lunch at El Casino

Rest your feet and restock on energy at one of the local restaurants in the village. El Casino is one of the most popular, with a nice terrace right on the grass and a friendly, chatty atmosphere. You shouldn’t expect something fancy, but the food is good, and their ice cream is definitely worth trying.

Cangas del Narcea

As the end of the first day, head to Cangas del Narcea for dinner and a walk around one of the richest wineries in Asturias. This area is fascinating with its picturesque old town and biosphere reserve that offers a wide range of trails through the heart of the forest.

But the real highlight is the Parador de Corias, a hotel housed in an 11th-century building, the former Benedictine Monastery of St. John the Baptist of Corias. The vineyards surround the hotel, giving it a very romantic vibe and a walk between the rows of grapes in the gentle light of sunset will soothe even the most jaded of travellers. Plus, you can finish with a glass of wine from one of the best wine regions in the country.

Dinner at Parador de Corias

It’s difficult to find another restaurant that can beat dining inside an old monastery, so don’t even bother. Enjoy dining at your hotel this evening. As expected, since this is a luxury hotel, the food and services are nothing but exceptional. The Parador also focuses on traditional, regional dishes so expect to taste the hearty stews of caldareta and fadeba, with requeson yoghurt mand honey as dessert.

Day 3: Cangas del Narcea – Oviedo

Lace up those boots again as your itinerary takes you through one of the most spectacular nature reserves in Spain and leaves you in a thermal springs spa.

Altu del Campillo

The first stop is at the Altu del Campillo viewpoint, which is one of the best places to see the valley of Degaña and its deep green and blue landscape. The Asturias road trip itinerary continues to the viewpoint of Fonduveigas, where if you’re incredibly lucky, you can spot some brown bears. Other viewpoints are just a 10-minute drive from each other, so stop for more amazing views until you reach the entrance to the national park reserve.

Moal – Tablizas through the Muniellos Biosphere Reserve

Moal is the entry point to the Integral Natural Reserve of Muniellos (Biosphere Reserve) that takes you along the Tablizas river to the Muniellos Visitor’s Reception Center in Tablizas. This is a relaxing walk through a chestnut wood where you will find the traditional “corripas” where chestnuts are gathered and left until they become easier to open.

To enter the reserve, you will need a permit, so plan ahead if you’re keen to go hiking here.

For a break from the green side of spain, head out of the wildness and straight into one of the most cosmopolitan towns in the area. Oviedo is not the typical sleep fishing village or former industrial town that makes up the landscape of Asturias. Instead, it’s a popular destination for those interested in history, shopping, and trying food at restaurants with several Michelin stars.

Itself a UNESCO World heritage Site, this beautiful city has a university, a grand cathedral and a series of places and temples dating back to the 8th and 10th centuries. Take a break in one of the many squares around the town and sip some local Asturian cider. Pair it with some Vidiago or Cabrales cheese, almond cake, and ore frixuelos.

Oviedo can get pretty crowded during the high season, as it’s a useful point on many routes which cross Asturias and Galicia. It’s the main base for the Picos de Europa National Park and Cangas de Onís and a key location on several Camino de Santiago pilgrimage trails. So, in short, book ahead.

Where to Stay near Oviedo

Head to the Hotel Las Caldas Villa Termal , a sprawling complex with a thermal spa and spacious restaurant based on the Hall of Mirrors at the Palace of Versailles.

Day 4: Picos de Europa, Covadonga and Cangas de Onís

It’s time for the big hitters: the Picos de Europa National Park, the birthplace of modern Spain and the Celtic cross that simply is the symbol of Asturias.

Mirador de San Roque, Lastres

The first stop on today’s itinerary is in Lastres, a charming fishing town with narrow cobbled stones and houses situated so close to each other that it is almost impossible for the beams of the Bay of Biscay to invade them. The Mirador de San Roque in Lastres offers a dazzling view over the city and the sea, opening your appetite for more natural beauties. And worry not, they are on their way.

Stand in Dinosaur Footprints at La Griega Beach

As if the beaches weren’t impressive enough, La Griega goes one step further by providing real, actual dinosaur footprints pressed into the rock. Stand in the imprints and get a sense of just how huge these creatures used to be.

Mirador del Fitu, Colunga

At 1,100 metres above sea level, Mirador del Fitu offers a 360-degree view that will stop you in your tracks. From here, you can see the Ponga Natural Park and the Sueve Nature Reserve, along with the mighty Picos de Europa National Park. And if you look to the south, Cangas de Onis and Covadonga appear on the horizon.

Mirador del Fitu to the Majada de Bustacu Route

This 3-kilometre trail takes you through a small wood until you reach the Majada de Bustacu high mountain meadow. I know I keep writing it but spectacular views await here, with the Cantabrian Sea shimmering on one side and the Picos de Europa on the other. This is the best place to spot the lovely Asturcones horses, one of the purest breeds of ponies in the world. 

Cangas de Onís: the famous spot in Asturias

This town is famous for its Roman Bridge with a reproduction of the Victoria Cross that hangs from its centre. Stop for lunch at Vega Redonda cider house , where you can try Asturias’ home cider brand, poured from a great height and drunk in a single slurp.

• Read the secret to pouring Spanish cider here.

Lugos of Covadonga (Enol and Ercina)

The day is still young, so your trip continues to visit some of the highest lakes in Asturias. Situated in the heart of the Picos de Europa Natural Park at an altitude of over 1,000 metres, Enol and Ercina are accessible through an easy climb, and theirstill waters and stunning surroundings attract thousands of tourists every year.

The Royal Site of Covadonga

Do not miss the Royal Site of Covadonga to learn one of the most important stories about the foundation of Asturias. In this place, it is said that King Pelayo defeated the Moors and started his campaign of recovering the Iberian Peninsula from the “barbarians,” aka the Moors.

Enter the waterfall-hidden cave to find the sanctuary of “La Santina” and take a few moments to meditate and embrace this unique Spanish monument of spirituality.

Ribadesella

The last stop is the seaside town of Ribadesella, famous for its prehistoric Cave of Tito Bustillo, which was inhabited by humans before the year 10,000 BC. 

Where to stay in Ribadesella

Hotel Villa Rosario is a fantastic pick for accommodation. A sumptuous villa with amazing views of the sea, luxurious rooms, and excellent breakfast options, it forms one of the famous Indiana houses that line the seafront.

Day 5: Ribadesella – Cabo Peñas, Gozón – Asturias Airport

The last day of your Asturias road trip still has plenty going on. Today, stroll around the town of Ribadesella and hike up to the viewpoint. Then discover the Cabo Peñas before heading back to the airport.

Head to the cave to see the marks made by some of the earliest humans to live in this region. Take a walk on the Santa Marina seafront or stop for a coffee in one of the many restaurants. Finally, stretch your legs by hiking up to the viewpoint that shows the unusual outline of Ribadesella in all her glory.

Cabo Peñas, Gozón

On your way to the airport, there’s the last stop and an amazing one at that. Drive to the Cabo Peñas Protected Area to visit the lighthouse there. It’s been in operation since 1852, guiding sailors across the treacherous yet beautiful Asturian coast.

When to Visit Asturias

The best time of the year for an Asturias road trip is between June and September. Compared to other regions of Spain, which become scorching hot during this period, Asturias enjoys comfortable temperatures that tend to stay below 30 degrees Celsius. The weather is typically sunny with sporadic rain, so prepare for everything and always pack a waterproof.

During the winter, the cliffs of Asturias are covered in snow, and the region becomes home to ski lovers. Christmas fairs are held in every city, and New Year’s Eve is celebrated with sumptuous parties.

In October, many villages hold hazelnut festivals, whilst bigger cities like Gijon and Aviles are famous for their summer music festivals.

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Asturias Is the Unsung Spanish Vacation Destination You Need to Visit This Year

By Paul Richardson

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Me and Asturias? We go way back. I first pitched up here in the mid-1980s as a backpacking student with an Interrail pass, riding the old-fashioned trains that rattled along the Cantabrian coast from Bilbao to La Coruña. I still remember my wide-eyed delight at seeing for the first time the verdant valleys rolling down to the sea, the huge beaches pummeled by big Atlantic breakers, the fishing villages stuck like limpets to the rocky coastline. Cold climates often imply caution and reserve, but there was a friendliness and warmth about the locals that reminded me—counter-intuitively, perhaps—of the laid-back Mediterranean.

Asturias is one of four regions along Spain's north coast, from Galicia in the west to the Basque Country in the east. The Principality of Asturias, as it’s officially known, brims with distinctiveness and diversity. It has its language, culture, and cuisine; its cool and damp climate harbors lush pastures, deciduous forests, and mighty mountain ranges. As a holiday spot, Asturias has historically been favored mainly by Spaniards, but as summer temperatures rise inexorably in the Med, a trickle of wised-up foreigners are choosing to take their vacations in these temperate northern climes.

The decades that followed that eye-opening Interrail trip saw me returning again and again. There was a memorable long weekend in Oviedo, the charmingly buttoned-up capital with its bustling provincial air; and another in Gijón—the polar opposite of Oviedo—a boisterous coastal town with a surf-tastic beach scene and a salty seaside vibe. In the rough-and-tumble harborside neighborhood of Cimadevilla in Gijón, I had my first swig of Asturian cider, which was poured in a thin stream into a flat-bottomed glass for a deliciously fresh (as well as intoxicating) draught.

More than anything, Asturias's food and drink kept me coming back for more. The wonderfully hearty local cuisine turns around classics like fabada asturiana, a rib-sticking stew of thumb-sized faba beans with cured pork meat and smoked sausage, and the creamy and unctuous rice pudding that is arroz con leche. I soon learned to value such fine asturiano ingredients as grass-fed beef and lamb, fish from the Cantabrian ports, and artisan cheeses—of which the region is said to have more individual varieties per square kilometer even than France . At a series of rustic eating houses run by the stalwart women cooks known as guisanderas (“stew-makers”), I ate my fill of down-home local favorites like onions stuffed with oxtail and maise-flour tortos with minced meat picadillo. But the excitement of new-wave Spanish cuisine had not passed the region by. A prime example was the restaurant Casa Marcial, which I first visited in the late 1990s when its chef-patron Nacho Manzano had not long been in charge of the rustic bar/shop/eatery previously run by his parents in the hamlet of La Salgar—and which now has three Michelin stars.

Over the decades, I must have made a dozen trips around this neck of the woods, making personal discoveries every time. One year, I spent a few days in the post-industrial town of Avilés, where Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer had just designed a new cultural center composed of curvaceous geometric forms in dazzling white. Driving east along the coast to Llanes, under the looming shadow of the Picos de Europa mountains, I was amazed to see how the concrete cubes of the harbor wall had been painted (by sculptor Agustín Ibarrola) in dazzling colors and madcap designs. All through the 2000s, I was obsessed with the unique Asturian heritage of pre-Romanesque churches dating from the sixth to ninth centuries. I plotted elaborate routes among these tiny, primitive, and almost unimaginably ancient buildings.

But if Asturias is big on culture, it’s even bigger on nature. The region has no less than 24 nature reserves, including a Parque Nacional and three of Spain’s largest Parques Naturales. Around a third of its surface area enjoys some sort of conservation status, making Asturias an ecological resource of inestimable value. Big treks in the deep country have long been a feature of my travels here. In the summer of 2009, in the company of mountain expert Guillermo Mañana, I made a four-day hike along the Camin Real de la Mesa, a Roman road winding spectacularly through the wild and lonely landscapes of Somiedo Natural Park. Wolves and bears still roam the silent valleys of the Principality’s unsullied interior, and a new kind of wildlife tourism has sprung up to cater for visitors keen to peer at them through telescopes. My bear-spotting safari with Wild Spain Travel in May 2022 was undoubtedly one of my life's most thrilling travel experiences.

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Meanwhile, Asturias and I have become like some cozy long-term couple, comfortable in each other’s company, but not yet at the point where familiarity breeds contempt. When summer heats frazzle the south of Spain, I still head north annually towards those pristine beaches, those rolling valleys lined with oak and chestnut woods. And the latest chapter of this particular love story is both a happy ending and a promising new start. Reader, I’ve just bought a house here.

Where to stay in Asturias

Solopalacio.

Nothing about SoloPalacio conforms to conventional notions of country-house luxury. First, there’s the location: way down south in a little-populated, little-visited corner of the region among grandiose mountain scenery and hardscrabble villages. Then there’s the back story. The country seat of the aristocratic Miranda-Quirós family, a rambling rural property in the hamlet of Llanuces, was rescued from ruin by Madrid entrepreneur Carlos Díaz. With his partner, designer Sofia Tejerina, Díaz transformed the property into a collection of 11 apartments occupying various outbuildings and a chapel plus the original 16th-century dwelling house, opening as SoloPalacio in June 2023. The USP here is Tejerina’s extraordinary design for the palacio – a radically stripped-down aesthetic employing basic and often humble materials to strikingly beautiful effect. (Think ‘wabi-sabi’ but without the shabby.) The high-ceilinged interiors are devoid of decoration beyond the occasional hand-woven basket or rustic implement; the walls are ruthlessly, unsparingly white. Colour has no place in this warm monastic minimalism: it’s all about the touchy-feely textures of polished- cement floors, bare stone walls and architectural-salvage furniture. Bathroom fixtures might be cheap hardware-store staples, yet the big squishy sofas are acres of cool white linen. Forget five-star fripperies like the big TV, the room service menu, the chocolate on the pillow - though a coffee machine and a bottle of Asturian wine would certainly be nice. On the plus side, there’s a stone-built Wellness Space and an infinity pool with mind-boggling mountain views. It may help to ease the pain of the room rate (whose high-season ceiling of 1059€ has caused quite a stir locally) to know that Diaz intends all profits from the hotel to go towards social projects and conservation schemes in the vicinity. As I said, SoloPalacio is anything but conventional.

Pueblo Astur

This thoroughgoing makeover of an entire country village (Cofiño, near Parres) raised the bar for high-end accommodation in Asturias when it opened in 2016. The sprawling property, which encompasses a church, traditional wooden paneras (granaries), and stables housing rare-breed farm animals, also includes 30 rooms in converted village houses, an excellent spa, river pools for swimming, and two restaurants using produce from the farm. The result is an interesting fusion of rusticism with highly geared luxe.

As Asturias’ brightest and boldest city and a seaside hub of urban culture often compared to Brighton in the UK, Gijón is just the right place for this sleek, chic boutique hotel in a carefully restored 1931 art-deco building.

CoolRooms Palacio de Luces

Asturias has never been prodigal in really fine hotels, but Palacio de Luces is a notable exception. First opened in 2006, it was recently acquired by the small but energetic Spanish group CoolRooms, who have made their mark on what was already a remarkable building, combining as it does a 16th-century mansion in pale yellow stone with a modernist wing surgically grafted on to the original buildings. Natural light floods in from all sides through plate-glass windows affording huge views of meadows and farmland, the coastline stretching away to east and west, and the hulking form of the Sueve mountain range. The 44 bedrooms, distributed equally between old and new wings, have undergone a total refit since the hotel changed hands in 2018, sweeping away the earlier incarnation’s dowdy brown-and-beige interior in favor of an elegant contemporary-classic look in a palette of greens that almost feels like a continuation of the landscape. Service, pitched five-star high, never feels starchy or formal. Nearby Lastres has some great eating places, but it’s worth staying for dinner at the hotel restaurant Tella. The views from the dining room, through floor-to-ceiling windows opened wide on summer nights, are as delectable as Francisco Ruiz’s new-gen Asturian cuisine with its emphasis on locally sourced produce and cunning nods to the region’s Latin American connections.

Casona de Indias

This bijou 7-room hotel in a former casa de indianos (built for a successful emigré on his return from the Americas) is beautifully sited in a quiet rural setting within reach of the Redes natural park. Owner-manager Pedro Armas is a madrileño incomer whose well-judged taste and hospitality make the casona feel like a particularly well-upholstered and civilized B&B.

Parador de Corias

A former monastery in the remote southwest of the region, this imposing granite building (known as “the El Escorial of Asturias”) is a stand-out among recent incorporations to the state-owned Paradores chain. Having arrived at this out-of-the-way location, be sure to visit the nearby nature reserve of Muñiellos, one of Europe’s largest areas of first-growth deciduous forest and a haunt of the Cantabrian brown bear.

Hotel de la Reconquista

The storied Reconquista in Oviedo, all red velvet and antique wood, where dignitaries and celebrities lay their heads during the annual Princess of Asturias awards, is the kind of hotel that Spaniards describe as “de toda la vida”— it’s been there forever .

Casonas Asturianas

Founded 30 years ago in 1994, this association of farmhouse stays, foursquare village houses, and stone-built historic palacios continues to offer exceptional quality and value. It’s worth browsing the website to find jewels like Villa Argentina in Luarca and Casona de la Paca in Cudillero, both examples of the extravagant modernista houses built by wealthy Asturians on their return from the Americas in the early years of the twentieth century.

Where to eat and drink in Asturias

Restaurante guëyu mar.

Top-quality fish and seafood landed at the small-scale fishing harbors along the Cantabrian coast is a major selling point of Asturian eating. This celebrated beachside restaurant at Playa de Vega does a great line in whole fish (try the virrey, a firm-fleshed local species) cooked over coals or a la plancha.

Address: Playa de Vega, 84, 33560 Ribadesella, Asturias, Spain Website: gueyumar.es

Casa Marcial

In the same former farmhouse where his parents once ran a rustic shop and bar, Nacho Manzano now presides over a three-Michelin-starred restaurant, generally agreed to be the region's finest, where the food is both inventive and sophisticated but never loses touch with Manzano's asturiano country roots.

Address: 33549 Arriondas, Parres, Asturias, Spain Website: casamarcial.es

Casa Chuchu

This no-frills locale in the post-industrial town of Mieres looks like a standard-issue Asturian cider house, but it's actually way more interesting. Rafael Rodríguez pours natural wines, cult sherries, and new-wave ciders while his wife Natalia Menéndez serves a market-led menu that, depending on the day and season, might run from shellfish salpicón and stuffed onions to roast beetroot with anchovy and hazelnuts and hake with fresh apple and cucumber sauce.

Address: El Parque, s/n, 33610 Turón, Asturias, Spain Website: instagram.com/casachuchu

Calle Gascona

Cider is a pillar of Asturian life, and cider houses abound in the region. They usually serve plates of fried pixín (monkfish) and platters of cheese along with cider by the bottle. This Oviedo street, teeming with sidrerías, is good for a total immersion in cider culture and its curious customs, like the escanciado: The drink is oxygenated by expert servers pouring it from an arm’s height.

Address: C. Gascona, Oviedo, Asturias, Spain Website: gasconaoviedo.es

Vino de Asturias

Visitors to the deep green landscapes of the southwest corner of Asturias are often surprised to see vineyards among the oak and chestnut woods. In fact, wine has been made here since the ninth century, but is currently undergoing a revival, now with its own quality seal (Denominación de Origen Cangas) and forward-thinking bodegas like Antón Chicote, La Muriella, and Monasterio de Corias.

Address: Centro de Empresas de Obanca, 33800 Cangas del Narcea, Asturias Website: docangas.es

Asturias is one of our Best Places to Go in Europe for 2024 , part of our global guide to the Best Places to Go in 2024 —find more travel inspiration here .

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The Ultimate Travel Guide to Asturias in Spain

I was born in Gijon which is a medium-sized city on the coast of Asturias in Spain. I’ve been living here for most of my 32 years. My love of nature and the outdoors began when I first picked up a surfboard at the age of 16. The search for good waves forced me and my friends to explore the coastline.

We found amazing beaches tucked behind mountains cascading to the sea and wide-open windswept sand dunes just waiting to be explored. A couple of years later (when I was totally lost on what to do next in life), I had the chance to try a reflex camera. I enjoyed it from the first click.

Suddenly, I had the power to capture my vision of the world. What’s better – people liked the photos I was taking. I was hooked from then onwards.

Why Visit Asturias in Northwest Spain

Asturias is off the beaten track. We’re not exactly inundated with tourists. Most visitors to Spain want guaranteed sun, beaches with turquoise waters, paella and fiesta – so they head to the Mediterranean or the south. This makes Asturias a quieter and more authentic region of Spain.

Sure, the weather is unpredictable but the rain is why we’re the garden of Spain and part of the Costa Verde. If you like adventures, the outdoor life and access to nature then this could be the perfect little paradise for you.

The thing I like most about Asturias is the fact that you can have all kinds of experiences in a very small place. You can hike a 6000-foot mountain in the morning, surf a wild beach in the afternoon and have dinner in a charming fishing village at night. The food and wine is as good as any place in Spain .

Cities are not too big and they all have “Casco Viejos” (Old Quarters) which reveal the history of the province. These towns were home to seafarers, fishermen and warriors who defended the towns from invaders.

Unique People and Culture of Asturias

I think the people here are not the most naturally open people. Although, other Spaniards consider us to be kind, helpful and authentic. People might not invite you into their house on day one but they will definitely show you the beauty and culture of Asturias and soon you will be friends.

The culture differs to the rest of Spain quite a lot. This is especially true when comparing Asturias to the south. We have more in common with Ireland or Scotland than we do with Andalusia . There is a lot of mythology related to nature and also the remains of the Celtic culture.

In fact, the traditional instrument of this region is not the guitar but the bagpipes! This unique instrument heavily influences our music.

My Favourite Places in Asturias: Lagos de Covadonga & Playa de Xago

It would be difficult to choose just one favourite place as Asturias is full of places I love for one reason or another. Lagos de Covadonga has to be one of my favourite places. Just picture two beautiful lakes beneath big mountains which are surrounded by green fields where cows graze.

I remember going there as a child with my father and being impressed by the beauty of it. I am not surprised that now it is a very popular place. Playa de Xago is definitely another favourite spot. It’s a wide and wild beach.

Sometimes when I’m stressed, sad or bored – all I need to do is drive over with my surfboard, score some nice waves and enjoy the sunset from the sand dunes. Xago will always cheer you up and put you in a good mood.

7-Day Travel Itinerary for Asturias

To take advantage of Asturias – a mix of experiences in the mountains, sea, villages and cities – you need at least seven days. And you might want to stay longer once you taste the gastronomic delights.

If you fly into Bilbao or come from France by car, start by spending a night on the eastern edge of Asturias in Llanes. The neighbouring coastline is full of little beaches and stunning cliffs – some of which include “bufones” or “gestures” where waves shoot up through the rocks like a fountain!

This area is also perfect for hiking, horse-riding and other activities. You also get to take advantage of the narrow streets of the Old Town of Llanes on foot. From there book into the Parador de Cangas de Onis or find another launching pad to take in some history and views of the Picos de Europa.

Cangas de Onis has an iconic humpback Roman footbridge but it’s the invaders who came after that who created much of the folklore of the area. About 1300 years ago the area was “reconquered” from the Moors under the leadership of Pelayo or Pelagius. His statue can be seen across Asturias.

Pelagius and his troops, depending on who you believe, either received sustenance in the Caves of Covadonga or were inspired by a statue of the Virgin there. The natural cave is now home to a church and shrine. And you’re not far from the Lagos de Covadonga that I mentioned before.

If you enjoy the mountains and the outdoors, the Picos de Europa National Park will show you some of the country’s biggest – including the famous Urriellu peak. Here you can spot the climbers on their way to the top looking like little ants in the middle of that 2300 foot wall.

Spend a day there trekking and checking out the miradors or take cable cars to enjoy the heights. Driving back to the coast, you should visit Ribadesella and go kayaking on the green waters of the Sella River. This is a summertime tradition and you will fall in love with the seaside villages.

Especially a place called Llastres which was the location of the Spanish television series Doctor Mateo . Get lost in the narrow streets that negotiate the hillside village and find fantastic seafood restaurants tucked into different vantage points overlooking the Cantabrico or the Bay of Biscay.

From there, head to Gijon, the biggest city of Asturias. It’s dominated by the two-kilometre long San Lorenzo beach. This beach is bordered by bars and restaurants. There’s also a promenade where visitors can watch the beach life and stunning tide transformations change throughout the day.

There are surfing schools for beginners or you can just chill in one of the quiet plazas in the old town, which is near old Roman Baths and narrow streets full of nightlife. Gijon is a great place to hang out for a few days.

Other must-visit cities in Asturias include Oviedo and Aviles. Both of which are close to Gijon. Oviedo is the cultural heart and capital of the Asturias province known for its fine architecture. Aviles, on the other hand, is a one-time industrial city that hides an alluring old town and cultural centre.

To end the trip, head west to Cabo de Penas and Cabo Vidio. These two places offer breathtaking views over the sea and are dominated by lighthouses. If you want to get back to fishing villages, try visiting Luarca and Puerto de Vega. The Asturias airport is close to Aviles and Gijon.

Incredible Food Scene of Northwest Spain

This is one of the best areas of Spain to enjoy eating! You can have any kind of food here but the fish and seafood will always make your day. Try the local pixin (monkfish). It’s the best-tasting ugly fish you’ll ever eat.

There are several high-end restaurants in Asturias and the traditional restaurants specialize in Fabada Asturiana (beans with chorizo) and Cachopo, the local steak/cheese/ham schnitzel or cordon bleu equivalent.

The best places are “sidrerias” (cider houses), another Asturian tradition. You can’t just pour the apple concoction into your glass – you must hold the bottle over your head and keep the glass tilted at your hip to catch it.

It’s worth a visit to a sidreria just to see the local camareros demonstrate this skill while you eat authentic Asturian food. And you better be hungry!

Best Accommodation Options in Asturias

There are plenty of options to stay here in Asturias depending on your style and budget – from high end paradors to Airbnbs. I would recommend spending some nights in a casa rural. These are traditional houses in a village or in the middle of nature that were turned into a guest house.

Houses such as these are perfect to chill at, meet the local people and immerse yourself in the culture of Asturias in the most authentic way.

In Gijon there is a wide range of accommodation but if you are looking for something different I would recommend North Surf House . This hostel offers the chance to practice some activities like yoga, pilates and of course, surfing. It’s the perfect place to relax during your visit to the city.

If you’re looking for something slightly more fancy then don’t miss Tierra del Agua . This eco-resort has an infinity pool, a little spa and a nice restaurant among other things. Tierra del Agua is situated in the middle of the mountains next to a natural park. You are going to love this place!

And if the budget isn’t a problem, there is an amazing place called Puebloastur . This five-star luxury resort is situated in the middle of the mountains and is probably the best in Asturias. To be honest, I haven’t been able to afford it but one day I will go! It looks incredible.

Favourite Experience: Lagos de Covadonga in Winter

Three years ago I went back to Lagos de Covadonga after a long time without visiting. It was winter and I couldn’t believe my eyes. The lakes were frozen and were surrounded by a beautiful snowy landscape with the last sun rays lighting the peaks of the mountains in the background.

In summer this place is crowded but at that moment I was almost the only one there. The mood was just perfect. I thought: “Wow, I should explore my own backyard more often.” At that time I was in the habit of travelling to far away countries. I realised that my own backyard had so much to offer.

Key Tips for your Visit to Asturias

The weather can change in the blink of an eye in Asturias so bring a good raincoat, a light sweater for nighttime when it can get cold, and bring some comfortable shoes because you are going to walk and hike a lot.

Public transport is good and cheap between the cities but rent a car if you want to visit remote places in the mountains or explore the coast and all the beaches and villages that aren’t served by buses.

At the restaurants feel free to ask the waiters if you are ordering too much because they don’t like wasting food. You can get a bottle of sidra for €2 so make sure you pace yourself because the hangovers are memorable!

I also recommend learning some Spanish before visiting. English is not commonly known, especially in the villages. If you go on to learn a few words in Asturian then you will definitely win people’s hearts and affection.

My last piece of advice (which sounds contradictory) is to enjoy Asturias and not tell people! As I said, the charm is that it’s off the beaten track. The major highway across the north was only completed this century.

If you find a fantastic vista or a stunning location away from the masses, keep it to yourself. By doing this, travellers are always going to be welcome here. Everyone has the right to visit paradise at least once!

BY JAVI SANCHEZ IG: @JAVISPICS WWW.JAVISANCHEZFOTOGRAFIA.ES

Author:  Javi Sanchez

Javi Sanchez is an Asturian boy who has been taking photos since he was 18. You can find him on Instagram at @javispics where he shares some amazing photos of Spain.

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‘Ser español es un orgullo’, the saying goes, ‘ser asturiano es un título.’ ‘If being Spanish is a matter of pride, to be Asturian is a mark of nobility'. Asturias, the sole patch of Spain never conquered by the Muslims is, some claim, the real Spain: the rest is simply tierra de reconquista (reconquered land).

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Catedral de San Salvador

Oviedo's stunning cathedral complex was built mainly in Gothic and baroque styles between the 13th and 18th centuries. But its origins and greatest…

Palacio de Santa María del Naranco

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Cueva de Tito Bustillo

Some of Spain’s finest cave art, including superb horse paintings probably done around 15,000 to 10,000 BCE, is within this World Heritage–listed cave,…

Museo Arqueológico de Asturias

Partly within a restored 16th-century monastery, Asturias’ archaeology museum makes the most of the region’s archaeological riches through video and…

Playa de Torimbia

A beautiful, gold-blonde crescent bounded by rocky headlands and a bowl of green hills, 9km west of Llanes, Torimbia is truly spectacular. Turn off the…

Playa del Silencio

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Cercados Oseros

About 5km south of Tuñón (or a 1km walk south from the Área Recreativa Buyera, where cars can park), the Senda del Oso reaches the Cercados Oseros, two…

Museo de la Emigración

The small town of Colombres, 21km east of Llanes, has a particularly fine collection of indiano architecture –florid buildings of eclectic styles…

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Everything to Know Before Traveling to Asturias – Explore Asturias

Everything to Know Before Traveling to Asturias

There is no better way to describe Asturias than its slogan, “ Asturias, paraíso natural ” (Asturias, natural paradise), which is perfect summary of this magical place. I believe it is one of the most unknown parts of Spain, literally “ Spain’s best kept secret .” Most of the tourists I came across in Asturias were actually Spanish, and the non-Spanish ones were here for the Camino de Santiago which passes through Asturias. This region has everything: tall beautiful mountains, many natural parks, breathtaking coast, and magical small villages. It is completely green in a way I have only seen in movies and there are countless animals such as cows, goats, and horses in every corner, including along the highway!!

Table of Contents

Asturias (in Asturian: Asturies), officially the Principality of Asturias, is an autonomous community in north-west Spain. The most important cities are the communal capital, Oviedo , the seaport and largest city Gijón , and the industrial town of Avilés .

The key features of Asturian geography are its rugged coastal cliffs and the mountainous interior. In the eastern range, the Picos de Europa National Park contains the highest and arguably most spectacular mountains, rising to 2,648 meters (8,688 ft). Other notable features of this predominantly limestone range are the Parque Natural de Redes in the central east, the central Ubiñas south of Oviedo, and the Parque Natural de Somiedo in the west. The Asturian coastline is extensive, with hundreds of beaches, coves and natural sea caves.

Asturias is bordered by Cantabria to the east, by Castile and León to the south, by Galicia to the west, and by the Bay of Biscay to the north.

How To Get to Asturias

Direct flight to Asturias : you can arrive to the Asturias airport, OVD, located around Avilés. According the the OVD Airport site , the airlines that fly through the airport are: Air Europa, Air Nostrum, Evelop, Iberia, Volotea, and Vueling.

Note: There are not many flights that pass through this airport, which is why it is sometime cheaper to fly to another airport in Spain.

Flight to nearby airport – Santander : the Santander Airport, SDR, is a great option, located less than 2 hours from Oviedo and Gijón. You can usually find cheaper flight flying to or from this airport. From there you can get to Asturias with BlaBlaCar (ridesharing app), direct bus, a bus to the main bus station of Santander and then another bus to Asturias (both bus options are with ALSA), or with a rented car.

Flight to central airport – Madrid: the Madrid airport, MAD, is huge and therefore has more frequent and sometimes cheaper flight options. From there you can get to Asturias with a rented car or BlaBlaCar (ridesharing app) which will take about 4.5 hours WITH tolls. If you want to avoid the toll payment make sure you set your GPS to skip those. You can also arrive to Asturias with a bus (ALSA) which will take you about 6 hours, depending on how many stops it makes.

Additional ways to arrive to Asturias include bus with the company ALSA, train with the company RENFE, or by car!

What to See

There is so much to see in Asturias that sometimes it can be difficult to decide. I think every visitor should combine visiting the coast, the mountains (highly recommend the Picos de Europa), and some of the small towns or “big” cities. Here are a few posts that can help you plan your trip to Asturias: 12 Places You Must Visit in Asturias Itinerary: 7 Days in Asturias Itinerary: 5 Days in Asturias Itinerary: 3 Days in Asturias 4 Asturias One-Day Hikes Accessible with Public Transportation Or you can browse all the Hiking Posts in the blog

Transportation

Public transportation in Asturias exists, yet it is not the best, which is why I have a many posts on things you can do in Asturias using public transportation. The bus company is Alsa and the train companies are Feve for within the area and Renfe for traveling between regions. Gladly, There are many things you can see with public transportation, so stay positive! The 3 main cities are well-connected with Alsa buses every 30 minutes throughout the day. I even wrote about 4 Asturias One-Day Hikes Accessible with Public Transportation .

Renting a car is fairly easy and prices can get as low as 10-15 Euros per day. You can do so in the Asturias Airport (OVD) or in one of the main cities: Oviedo, Gijón, or Avilés.

If you don’t have a car, or just prefer to visit some places in Asturias with a guide, Civitatis has a lot of great excursions leaving from different points in Asturias.

Weather is definitely the main issue when traveling to Asturias. The beautiful green hills come with a price, and it is the rain. However, the sunny summer days are absolutely perfect which is what makes Asturias the perfect Summer escape for locals who live in the hotter areas of Spain such as Madrid and Andalucia.

You should definitely check the weather forecast before making any plans. Keep in mind that summers are mild and, on the coast, winters also have relatively benign temperatures, rarely including frost. The cold is especially felt in the mountains, where snow is present from October to May. Both rain and snow are regular weather features of Asturian winters. In coastal or near-coastal areas, daytime high temperatures generally average around 12 °C (54 °F) – 13 °C (55 °F) during winter and 22 °C (72 °F) – 23 °C (73 °F) in summer.

The Asturian Sidra

Sidra is an important part of the Asturian culture and it is definitely something you should know about! Asturian people love drinking sidra in any occasion, whether it is with dinner or just as a casual sit-down with something to snack. It is light, refreshing, and fairly cheap (normally less than 3 euros per bottle).

Sidra is an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented juice of apples. In Asturias sidra is considered not only a beverage but an intrinsic part of the culture and folklore; it is poured in very small quantities from a height into a wide glass and is done to get air bubbles into the drink (as you can see in the picture). But don’t worry, you don’t need to pour it like that. The waiter at the bar/restaurant will pour you sidra in the glass whenever you request. Some restaurant even have a device that pours sidra for you! BUT, you have to drink all the sidra in the glass in one time, or people will look at you like you’re crazy ad might even make a comment.

I absolutely adore the food here! So many options and so much variety!!  In Asturias, you can find delicious cheese, meat, seafood, bread, and much more. Some highlights of the region (there are many more) are the Cabrales cheese which is a type of blue cheese, the cachopo which is a layered meat, cheese, and sometimes vegetables that is deep-fried, and the fabada that is a soup with local huge beans and meat. The best part – the food is fairly cheap and the portions are gigantic!

• The weather changes pretty fast, in the same day you can be at the beach in your bathing suit and later on freezing in the rain under your umbrella. Make sure you pack properly for every climate possibility!
• People in Asturias are very nice so feel free to ask for help or just talk about the weather (very common conversation). Locals also know the best secret places to visit so asking for a travel recommendation usually turns out great!
• When it comes to food take advantage of the Menu del Dia which usually offers you a 3 course meal for 10-15 Euros. It s usually a pretty good deal and in Asturias you will get great portions, so always ask if there is a Menu and what it offers. The menu is during lunchtime Monday-Friday and most of the time includes an appetizer, main course, dessert, drinks, and bread.
• On Sundays and Mondays some of the restaurants and local businesses are closed, make sure you take that into account when making plans!
• You can also find cool events in Asturias on this website: http://www.asturiasdefiesta.es

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The World Through a Lens

A Local’s Tour of Asturias, Spain’s ‘Natural Paradise’

After a decade spent living abroad, a photographer returns to her homeland — and revels in the breadth of its beauty.

Ribadesella, a small town in eastern Asturias. Credit...

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Photographs and Text by Mónica R. Goya

• Nov. 2, 2020

At the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, with travel restrictions in place worldwide, we launched a new series — The World Through a Lens — in which photojournalists help transport you, virtually, to some of our planet’s most beautiful and intriguing places. This week, Mónica R. Goya shares a collection of images from northwest Spain.

Asturias, a region in northwest Spain that’s separated from the Castilian Plateau by the Cantabrian Mountains, is a land of contrasts. Once an industrial and mining powerhouse, the area has earned its nickname, Natural Paradise; a third of its territory is now environmentally protected.

This year I had the chance to spend over two months there. It was a unique opportunity to rediscover my homeland after a decade spent living abroad. Asturias boasts a range of forests — oak, beech, chestnut, birch — and a mostly unspoiled coastline. Its beaches come in all sizes: a palette of turquoise blue waters surrounded by imposing cliffs and green pastures.

Traces of the region’s pastoral heritage are still visible. On a hike through chestnut woods, I spotted a corripa, a circular stone enclosure built near a tree to store its chestnuts in their burrs, a way of prolonging their shelf life.

The region is also dotted with hórreos, ancient wooden granaries built on stilts, and protected by heritage status since the 1970s.

And since tending the land is rooted in the soul of many locals, you’re never far from a bursting vegetable garden.

Asturias is home to just over a million people, half of whom live along the region’s midline, where its main three towns are: Oviedo, the capital city, which showcases immaculately preserved pre-Romanesque architecture, and the harbor towns of Gijón and Avilés.

Somiedo, one of Asturias’ seven UNESCO biosphere reserves , is as far as it gets from the sun-drenched Spain of most people’s imagination. There, I was moved by the timeless beauty of the teitos, little thatched roof huts scattered across the emerald valleys. Often associated with the pre-Roman settlements known as castros, these traditional buildings are an important part of the culture of the Vaqueiros de Alzada, a nomadic people who practiced a transhumant lifestyle and who used to stay in the teitos while moving their cattle to the high mountain grazing pastures in the summer. Today there is an emerging movement to prevent this cultural heritage from vanishing.

Western Asturias, where Cantabrian brown bears roam free, is considered the cradle of rural tourism in Spain. (The bears’ presence is on the rise, a result of conservation efforts.) There, castros abound and stone houses with slate roofs are the norm. Ancient oak forests — such as Muniellos, the largest in Spain and one of the best preserved in Europe — as well as beech and birch woods are at their prettiest in autumn, when the deciduous trees put on a show.

Across Spain, many areas that are partially uninhabited because of a rural exodus come back to life in the summer. On the way to my grandmother’s village, I took the slower route, visiting the charming fishing villages of Llastres, Cudillero and Luarca. I took time to reflect on the many rural Spaniards who emigrated to the Americas over a century ago — and to reflect on the legacy of the indianos , the few who made fortunes abroad and returned to their hometowns to build grandiose mansions and, sometimes, schools, thereby helping to reduce the widespread illiteracy among the rural classes into which they were born.

Picos de Europa, created in 1918, is the only national park in Asturias. Its exquisite natural beauty cannot be understood apart from the shepherds who for centuries have shaped the park’s landscapes, tending their livestock and producing award-winning cheeses such as Cabrales and Gamonéu, still aged in difficult-to-access caves.

Around 80 percent of all Spanish cider is produced in Asturias, and sidrerías, or cider houses, are a staple in society. Local customs call for natural cider — which is traditionally poured into a wide-mouth glass from high above — to be drunk quickly, in one go. The local cuisine is hearty, the portions abundant and locals’ gluttonous reputation not unfounded.

Despite the never-ending engineering works to link Asturias with Madrid by high-speed rail (a project scheduled to be completed by 2010 and still underway), visitor numbers are increasing annually. Last year, a record 2.3 million visited Asturias, 82 percent of them Spanish nationals.

And yet, in August, Asturias is a green oasis where I can blissfully find trails to walk in silence for hours without encountering another soul.

Mónica R. Goya is a London-based journalist and photographer. You can follow her work on Instagram and Twitter .

Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram , Twitter and Facebook . And sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to receive expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation.

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Travel Guide To Asturias

The rain in Spain falls mainly in the north, which keeps it lush, green and blessedly free of tourists. Delight in the empty beaches, delicious cheeses and ciderhouses of Asturias, one of Spain's four 'autonomous communities' facing north into the Cantabrian Sea along with Galicia, Cantabria and the Basque country. The region is vibrantly urban in parts, but profoundly rural in others. It is maritime, but also mountainous - utterly distinctive, but oddly hard to pin down.

Where to stay in Asturias

Ballota, Cudillero, Asturias (00 34 985 598 111; www.artehotel.net ). A curious example of what can happen when you put urban minimalism in a rural context. This is not high design, but 'domestic modern', breezily put together with affordable materials in black, white and primary colours. Everything is brand new. Not to everyone's taste, maybe, but certainly refreshing. £

CASONA DE BUSTIELLO

Carretera Infiesto-Villaviciosa km16, Piloña, Asturias (00 34 985 710 445; www.hotelcasonadebustiello.com ). Rambling country house in a splendid rural setting on an 11-hectare finca , with stables, a conservatory for cold, bright days, and nine guest rooms. £

CASONA DE LA PACA

El Pito, Cudillero, Asturias (00 34 985 591 303). A splendid casa de Indianos (see Villa La Argentina below for an explanation) from 1877, set in a garden of camellias and magnolias. Chintzy, comfortable, English-style decoration. £

CASONA DE SAN ANDRES

San Andrés, Bárcena del Monasterio, Tineo, Asturias (00 34 985 804 071; www.sanandreshotel.com ). Clean-lined, renovated farmhouse that's dog-friendly, family-friendly and refreshingly unpretentious. Owner Iris Garcia is your super-helpful host. £

Carrales, Caravia, Asturias (00 34 985 853 272; www.elbabu.com ). Between the Sueve mountains and the coast, this stone village house was brought radically up to date by its owners and architect Ricardo Lajara. The design is clever and chic, using neutral colours and modern materials, from RSJs to lime-and-mortar rendering. £

LA POSADA DE BABEL

La Preda, Llanes, Asturias (00 34 985 402 525; www.laposadadebabel.com ). Few rural hotels in Spain are more daringly contemporary than this. The design scheme is original and fascinating, and it works superbly in its rural context. Two suites and 10 rooms are housed in four highly individual buildings. £

LA RECTORAL

Taramundi, Asturias (00 34 985 646 760; www.larectoral.com ). The village of Taramundi, hard by the Galician border in a lush sylvan setting, was an early pioneer of rural tourism and is now almost entirely given over to it. La Rectoral is its most comfortable hotel, housed in what was once the rectory. £££

Comandante Vallespín, Oviedo, Asturias (00 34 985 274 060; www.librettohotel.com ). The hotel to stay at in Oviedo was until recently the Reconquista, a grand old pile done out in suffocating 19th-century style. The M Hotel and is sister establishment, the Libretto, have brought a breath of fresh air to a city as yet unused to contemporary style. M occupies a round tower-block a little way outside the old city, with rooms cleverly incorporated and thus unusually shaped. Decor is quirkily post-modern, with a touch of brothel kitsch in the zebra-skin alcove behind the beds. £££

NH PALACIO DE FERRERA

9 Plaza de España, Avilés, Asturias (00 34 985 129 080; www.nh-hotels.com ). This restored 17th-century palace, on the main square in Avilés, makes a wonderful base for a visit to this rather under-appreciated city. ££

PALACIO DE PRELO

Prelo, Boal, Asturias (00 34 985 620 718; www.palaciodeprelo.com ). This modest 'palace' in a remote hamlet in western Asturias, lay in ruins until Antonio Gomez Mendoza, an economist and Oxford don, transformed it into a small, luxury hotel. He has seamlessly combined rustic and modern, using local chestnut wood for the ceilings and multi-coloured slate for the floors, and lovingly preserving parts of the original house, such as the extraordinary chapel. The surroundings are beautiful, the silence deep. £££

TORRE DE VILLADEMOROS

Cadavedo, Valdés, Asturias (00 34 985 645 264; www.torrevillademoros.com ). Sea breezes provide the air-conditioning at this former farmhouse with a medieval stone tower on the flat coastal shelf known as the 'Rasa Costera'. The interior design fearlessly combines the original stone with concrete columns, bright colours and plate-glass windows. Rooms are on the small side. £

VILLA LA ARGENTINA

Villar de Luarca, Asturias (00 34 985 640 102; www.villalaargentina.com ). The Indianos were immigrants from Asturias who returned from the Americas with vast fortunes and built extravagant, colonial-style casas . Several are now hotels; this one, built in 1899, makes for a charming place to stay and is competitively priced. £

VILLA ROSARIO

6 Dionisio Ruisánchez, Ribadesella, Asturias (00 34 985 860 090; www.hotelvillarosario.com ). This stunning casa de Indianos , an Art Nouveau masterpiece on the seafront at Santa Marina beach, dominates the surroundings with its delicious façade in Mediterranean blue. The first-floor suite is vast. £

Where to eat out in Asturias

CIDER HOUSES

CASA MUNIZ 16 La Lila, Oviedo, Asturias (00 34 985 203 259). Long-established sidrería just off Gascona (Oviedo's main cider drag). A little pricey but good, with plenty of atmosphere and free pinchos (snacks) handed round the tables.

EL TITI Basoreu, Nava, Asturias (00 34 985 716 711). This sidrería , run by Vicente 'Titi' Lafuente, sits in rolling countryside with views over apple and pear orchards and the mountains of Peña Mayor. Not far away is Nava, the cider capital of Asturias.

LA ZAMORANA Hermanos, 38-40 Felgueroso, Gijón, Asturias (00 34 985 380 632). Gijón's most prestigious cider house and seafood bar.

SIDRERIA EL PLANETA Tránsito de las Ballenas, Gijón, Asturias (00 34 985 346 508). There are excellent fish dishes, including an impeccable besugo a la espalda (whole fish split down the middle and baked in the oven), at this classic sidrería with panoramic views of Gijón harbour.

SIDRERIA TININ 18 M Caso de la Villa, Ribadesella, Asturias (00 34 985 861 261). Tinin is one of several sidrerías around the port of Ribadesella specialising in seafood raciones washed down with cider.

TIERRA ASTUR 1 Gascona, Oviedo, Asturias (00 34 985 20 05 02; www.tierra-astur.com ). On Gascona, this sidrería is run by the reliable Crivencar group and is pleasantly decorated in rustic style. A small shop near the entrance sells Asturian products. Crivencar also has a bigger shop up by the central market.

Adam Turner

CNT Editors

Rachel Everett

RESTAURANTS

CASA GERARDO Carretera, Prendes, Asturias (00 34 985 588 7797; www.casa-gerardo.com ). Both the arroz con leche and the fabada asturiana , twin pillars of the local repertoire, reach a pitch of perfection at Casa Gerardo. These days, however, under Pedro Morán and his son Marcos, this renowned restaurant is as well known for inventive modern cooking as for traditional Asturian staples.

CASA MARCIAL 10 La Salgar, Arriondas, Asturias (00 34 985 840 991; www.casamarcial.com ). Chef Nacho Manzano holds court in what was once the family home, in a bucolic setting outside Arriondas. Manzano's reinterpreted traditional cuisine has won him two Michelin stars: maize tortillas with onion confit, egg, cream and Cabrales cheese, and his crunchy pancetta with fabada vinaigrette and raw vegetables are definitely worth trying.

EL ROMPEOLAS El Puerto, Tazones, Asturias (00 34 985 860 287). Famous for its delicious fritos de pixin (deep-fried monkfish), locally landed andaricas (crabs) and oven-baked fish.

GALLERY ART & FOOD 118 Carretera de la Costa, Gijón, Asturias (00 34 985 196 666). This new place - a combination of art space, contemporary restaurant and trendy watering-hole - has revolutionised the food scene in Gijón.

RESTAURANTE SIDRERIA JORGE Calle del Muelle, Asturias (00 34 985 648 211). Super-fresh fish and shellfish, just off the boat, are the best reasons to come here. Caldeirada , a mixed fish stew (originating in Portugal), is typical of the cuisine around Navia, as is venera , a kind of almond tart. https://www.cntraveller.com/article/travel-guide-asturias

What to see in Asturias

BUILDINGS AND MONUMENTS

ANCIENT SITE OF CASTRO DE COANA Coaña, Asturias. Driving inland from Navia on the AS-12, this neolithic site looms on a hilltop above the road, outside the town of Coaña. Castros (fortified villages) are two-a-penny in Asturias, but this one, with its honeycomb arrangement of circular stone huts, is impressive.

CHURCH OF SAN JULIAN DE LOS PRADOS, OVIEDO Oviedo, Asturias. It was once surrounded by meadows; now a motorway access road screams by. The interior of this ancient church (dating from the late eight century) is magical. San Julian is famous for its murals, which are geometrical and richly coloured.

CHURCH OF SAN SALVADOR DE VALDEDIOS Valdediós, Asturias. El Conventín ('The Little Convent'), as it's known locally, is a well-preserved late-ninth-century church in the lovely village of Valdediós, a few miles outside Villaviciosa.

PALACE OF SANTA MARIA DEL NARANCO, OVIEDO Monte Naranco, Oviedo, Asturias. This pre-Romanesque building, in a hillside pasture of Monte Naranco above Oviedo, is an exquisite little palace in pinkish stone, built for Asturian King Ramiro I in the mid-ninth century, and converted to a church in the 12th century. The entire corpus of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture has now been declared a World Heritage site.

RURAL HOUSES AT BRANA DE LA PRONACAL, SOMIEDO Parque Natural de Somiedo, Asturias. Brañas were the communities of stone shacks which were inhabited by shepherds during their long stays in the high pastures in summer. This braña , in the heart of the Parque Natural de Somiedo, is one of the biggest and best-preserved in Asturias, and is still partly in use. It is reached on foot from the village of Villar de Vildas.

FUNDACION ARCHIVO DE INDIANOS: MUSEO DE LA EMIGRACION, COLOMBRES Quinta Guadalupe, Colombres, Asturias ( www.archivodeindianos.es ). Asturias' museum about the phenomenon of local emigration to Cuba, Argentina and Mexico is housed in the Quinta Guadalupe, built by Iñigo Noriega Laso when he returned from Mexico a rich man in 1906. A collection of documents and objects, as well as the house itself, throw light on this fascinating subject. The quinta 's gardens are among the finest in the region.

MUSEO DE LA SIDRA - THE CIDER MUSEUM Plaza Principe de Asturias, Nava, Asturias ( www.museodelasidra.com ). Drive out to the orchards and the rolling hills between Nava, the capital town of 'La Comarca de la Sidra' (Cider County), and Villaviciosa.

TOWNS AND VILLAGES

CIMADEVILLA Gijón, Asturias. Gijón's old town, once the fishing quarter, still has loads of atmosphere and some great cider houses.

CUDILLERO Cudillero, Asturias. This attractive harbour town has something of a Mediterranean look when the sun is on it, picking out the colours of the brightly painted façades. The town has its own dialect, pixueto , shown off once a year on 29 June at the fiesta of San Pedro.

LASTRES Lastres, Asturias. Just when you thought the authentic working fishing village was a thing of the past, you come across Lastres: a real gem, bursting with salty charm.

LUARCA Luarca, Asturias. For many, Luarca is the most pleasant and genuine of all Asturian coastal villages. The village still depends largely on fishing to survive, and tourism has not yet made much of an impact. Mesón de la Mar on the harbourside does good seafood tapas.

PUERTO DE VEGA Puerto de Vega, Asturias. A perfect little fishing port midway between Navia and Luarca, reminiscent of the harbour villages on Cornwall's coast, only without the trippers.

TAZONES Tazones, Asturias. Little white houses with coloured balconies crowd up the cliffside, stone pathways rising steeply among them. Just 15 minutes' drive from Gijón on the new motorway, Tazones is in danger of becoming a victim of its own picturesqueness.

Things to do in Asturias

PLAYA DEL AGUILAR

East of Cudillero, Asturias. This splendid beach is reached by a narrow road which winds down through eucalyptus woods. Summer weekends see it fill up with families from nearby Avilés.

PLAYA DEL BARAYO

Near Sabugo, Asturias. The beach forms part of a natural park in Valdés, which includes a river estuary inhabited by otters. A path from the clifftop leads through forests and fields down to a superb stretch of sand. Few visitors bother to make the half-hour trek, which is why you should.

PLAYA DEL SILENCIO

Near Cudillero, Asturias. This aptly named beach (one of Spain's most beautiful) near Cudillero is remarkable not so much for the sand-and-stone beach itself, as for its impressive surrounding landscape of rock formations, cliffs and meadows. The bay encloses a circle of calm water for snorkelling.

PLAYA DE POO

Between Ribadesella and Llanes, Asturias. Popular with families, this is one of a string of pretty beaches between Ribadesella and Llanes. It follows the narrow mouth of an estuary, the rising tide transforming the energetic breakers into a peaceful lagoon. Various restaurants serve seafood and Asturian specialities.

PLAYA DE TORIMBIA

Niembro, Asturias. A spectacular, sweeping arc of sand, reached on foot from a clifftop car park, close to Niembro, west of Llanes. A small chiringuito above the beach sells drinks and snacks. Torimbia is known as Asturias' main nudist beach.

PLAYA DE VEGA

La Vega, Asturias. Reached through a narrow gorge with lush vegetation harbouring rare species, plant and amphibian. The village of La Vega is charming, the wide beach and dunes well preserved, and a few decent restaurants complete the picture.

( www.feve.es ). This narrow-gauge train creeps along the coast from Santander to Gijón and back, stopping at every tiny station along the way. Don't be in a hurry: the service runs just once or twice a day, depending on the season.

When to go to Asturias

Summers are warm, with plenty of sunshine, though cooler, cloudier and wetter than elsewhere in Spain. Autumns and winters tend to be fairly wet and cloudy, hit by depressions from the Atlantic. The best month to go is July.

The best way to get around Asturias

BY TRAIN Asturias and Santander is on Spain's national train grid - RENFE ( www.renfe.es ) trains run from many parts of the country and stop in Oviedo and Gijón.

BY BUS When travelling from one part of Asturias to another, or from Spain's interior to the province, check the regional bus company ALSA's schedules ( www.alsa.es ).

Travel tips for Asturias

CLASSIC ASTURIANO DISHES

Fabada - the signature dish of Asturias: a powerful stew of fabas (big white beans) with smoked chorizo, ham, morcilla and bacon.

Cabrales - Asturias has no fewer than 43 cheese products, making it undoubtedly the cheese capital of Spain. Cabrales, a powerful cow's-milk blue cheese, is a worthy rival to both Stilton and Roquefort, and possibly finer than either.

Empanada - shallow covered pie with a thick crust and various fillings such as tuna, minced meat or sardines.

Fritos de pixin - deep-fried monkfish chunks.

Torto de maiz - small maize-flour tortilla, often fried until it puffs up.

Pote - take-no-prisoners stew, typical of western Asturias, containing potato, cabbage, mixed meats and sausages.

Lacón - sweet-cured ham from the shoulder.

Chorizo a la sidra - chorizo in cider.

Arroz con leche - creamy rice pudding: the Asturiano dessert.

Casadielles - puff-pastry sweetmeats with walnut stuffing.

CIDERHOUSE RULES

Cider consumption in Asturias requires the drinker to observe three certain rules: \1. Sidra natural (natural, still cider) must always be served escanciada . The verb 'escanciar' means to tip the cider from the bottle into the glass from as great a height as possible, so that it splashes on the side of the glass (always thin and flat-bottomed) and becomes cloudy and oxygenated. The waiter will do this for you, or you can try it yourself. (No one will mind, except you, if most of the cider ends up on the floor.) \2. Once poured, the glassful must be downed in one. The oxygenating effect of escanciada only lasts a few seconds, after which the cider is thought to 'die'. \3. It is considered polite to leave a little cider in the bottom of the glass, to be thrown either on the floor or into a receptacle provided. This practice dates from the days when the glass was often shared between drinkers: the remaining liquid would be rinsed around the glass and thrown away before passing it on.

• 15 Must Visit Attractions In...

Must-Visit Attractions in Asturias, Spain

Explore Asturias, the rugged coastline of northwest Spain , dotted with world-class surfing beaches near Gijón, quaint medieval towns such as Oviedo, and the beautiful Covadonga Lakes in the Picos de Europa National Park.

Forget flamenco, pueblos blancos and arid, dusty landscapes of orange and brown – they all belong to Andalucia. Asturias, on the other hand, couldn’t be more different from the south of Spain: wedged in between Galicia and Cantabria on the country’s northwestern coast, it’s a land of glacial mountains, sea-beaten cliffs and lush countryside. Here is our pick of the best attractions in this often-overlooked region.

1. Marvel at the Bufones de Pría

Natural Feature

Carved out by the sea and wind over millennia, the blowholes of Pria are chimneys connecting the ocean with the cliffs above. On windy days, the force of the waves hitting the coast forces the expulsion of water and air from these vertical chambers, resulting in columns of up to 10m (33ft) in height. To see them in action, head to the small town of Llames, from where a clifftop hiking route of about four hours begins and ends.

2. Admire the view from the Mirador del Fitu

For some of the most unforgettable views in Asturias, head to the Mirador del Fitu, a scenic balcony situated a 45-minute drive east of Gijón. As if the hill itself weren’t high enough, a concrete platform built in 1927 provides a few extra metres of elevation, enabling you to survey what seems like half of Spain. Weather permitting, you’ll be able to see the mountains of the Picos de Europa National Park, the rocky coastline of Asturias, and towns such as Ribadesella, Colunga and Villaviciosa.

4. Go cider tasting at Calle de Gascona

Bar, Restaurant, Spanish

Calle de Gascona in Oviedo is the focal point of the cider culture in Asturias. It’s lined with over a dozen sidrerías , the name given to taverns and bars that specialise in the signature tipple of the region. Staff at these establishments pour the dry, flat sidra in a way that generates maximum bubbles and flavour – by pouring it from above head height into a glass held almost at their knees, somehow without spilling a drop. Among the best are La Pumarada and Tierra Astur.

5. Hike the Senda del Oso

Hiking Trail

The Bear’s Trail follows the course of a mining railway constructed in the late 19th century. Beginning in the village of Tuñon (a 25-minute drive south of Oviedo), it forks into two routes, one ending in Cueva Huerta, the other in Ricabo: both are 30km (19mi) long and require around seven hours to complete. Key sights include Proaza’s wildlife reserve, where you can see the rare Cantabrian brown bear in its natural environment, and the dizzying Valdecerezales Gorge.

6. Discover underwater creatures at Acuario de Gijón

Looking to entertain the kids on a rainy day? The Gijón Aquarium is one of the best attractions in the region, home to 4,000 marine creatures across 400 different species. You’ll be able to spot everything from bull sharks and loggerhead turtles to red piranhas (just watch those little fingers). The aquarium also supports more than 20 conservation projects around the world, including an initiative to repopulate local river salmon.

7. Get lost at the Jardín Botánico Atlántico

Botanical Garden

The Atlantic Botanic Garden is located just southeast of Gijón. It is home to a whopping 2,000 varieties of plants, many of which are native to northern Spain and the Atlantic coastal regions. Make sure to visit the Garden of the Island, a historical garden dating back more than 150 years, and the Natural Monument of La Carbayeda of El Tragamón, a natural forest with 400-year-old trees.

8. Learn to surf at Playa de San Lorenzo

The Asturias coastline is home to some of the finest surf spots in Spain . San Lorenzo, the long crescent-shaped strip of sand in Gijón town centre, is a great place to learn how to ride waves. A number of surf schools dot the shoreline, offering lessons to help you master the basics. Once your arms feel like churros, head to a pintxos bar to refuel. More experienced surfers should head to Xagó for a larger, more consistent swell.

9. Visit Oviedo Cathedral

The gothic cathedral of San Salvador, or Oviedo Cathedral, lies along the Camino del Norte ; it is a major stop for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela . It was built in the late 13th century and is one of the most impressive in Asturias. Walk around the cloisters and chapter house, then visit the Holy House, a pre-Romanesque building dating to the ninth century and now a Unesco World Heritage Site.

10. Visit the Asturias Museum of Fine Arts

The Asturias Museum of Fine Arts houses one of the finest public collections in Spain in a four-building complex near Oviedo Cathedral. The permanent exhibits consist of 15,000 items and span the 14th century to the present day, showcasing works by Spanish artists such as El Greco, Goya, Picasso, Dalí and Miró. There are also pieces by European Renaissance masters including Titian and Reubens, as well as extensive collections of sculpture, drawing, photography and cinema posters.

11. Uncover dinosaurs in the Jurassic Museum of Asturias

Not many people know it, but northern Spain was a prime dinosaur location during the Jurassic and Mesozoic eras. Hundreds of dinosaur bones and fossils have been discovered in the regions of La Rioja and Asturias, so it’s a great place for any dino-crazed little ones, or those who simply want to discover more. Keep your eyes peeled for the giant diplodocus in the garden outside.

12. Trace ancient wall art in Cuevas de Tito Bustillo

Travel back in time to 10,000 BCE, when early humans painted rock art on the walls of the Tito Bustillo caves, just outside Ribadesella. You’ll be able to make out details of horses, reindeer, as well as (unusually in ancient rock art) whales and dolphins. There are also many pictures of the female form. The guided tours are well worth listening to, but are only conducted in Spanish.

13. Swim at Playa del Silencio

Playa de Silencio means the Beach of Silence and it’s located just outside the village of Castañeras. It’s one of the most beautiful beaches in the area: a stunning crescent of white and grey sand, surrounded by towering green cliffs and lapped by turquoise waves. Although don’t expect a host of facilities here – this undisturbed spot has no lifeguards or places to eat. Despite this, it is popular in summer and can often get quite busy. Part of the beach is also used by naturists.

14. Peek inside the Santuario de Covadonga

Church, Natural Feature

Ever visited a chapel tucked away inside a cave? Stroll around the basilica inside the Sanctuary of Covadonga – or even attend Sunday service. It sits in the Picos de Europa National Park, surrounded by misty peaks and verdant valleys. Not only is there a church, but also a grand 19th-century basilica which houses the tombs of Asturian royalty. You’ll enjoy the stroll up along lush trails to the chapel itself.

15. Explore the Picos de Europa National Park

Explore one of the largest national parks in Spain. Covering an area of 64,660ha (159,778 acres), it has glacial lakes, limestone peaks and incredible hiking trails. It’s no wonder this park has been designated a Unesco Biosphere Reserve. Highlights include the beautiful Lakes of Covadonga. Read our guide to the best hiking trails in the Picos de Europa to find out more.

Mark Nayler contributed additional reporting to this article.

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30 places to visit in the Asturias coast

• Sofía Pozuelo
• UPDATED: 12/12/2023

Traveling along the coast of Asturias is one of the best trips you can take in Spain. This region stands out for having some of the most incredible mountain landscapes of the country and postcards with the sea as a protagonist that you will never erase from your memory.

Precisely, I am going to focus in this article on the 472 km of Asturian coastline. I am going to review the 30 most beautiful places to see on the coast of Asturias: cliffs where you will want to stay for hours, incredibly beautiful villages and charming beaches, ideal for swimming or simply to observe.

From the Ría del Eo (border with Galicia) to the Ría del Tina Mayor (border with Cantabria), get ready to discover what are those places that can not miss on a route along the coast of Asturias.

Table of contents

Road trip along the asturias coast.

To make it easier for you to organize your trip to the coast of Asturias, I have divided the places between the western, central, and eastern coasts. In addition, I have grouped all the tourist attractions on a map of the Asturian coast, which you can find at the end of the list.

• West coast: from the mouth of the Eo estuary to the mouth of the Nalón river.
• Central coast: from the mouth of the Nalón estuary to the Villaviciosa estuary.
• Eastern coast: from the mouth of the Villaviciosa estuary to that of Tina Mayor.

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Places to visit in the western Asturian coast

Let’s start with the essential things to see on the coast of western Asturias.

1. Peñarronda Beach

What do you think if we start the list with one of the most beautiful beaches on the western coast? Peñarronda Beach is located between the municipalities of Castropol and Tapia. It is a large beach in length and width. It is 600 meters long and has a total area of 300,000 m².

The geological formations located on the beach itself stand out, especially the Castelo, a cliff with a tunnel included. This beach is ideal for activities such as surfing or flying.

2. Mexota Beach

If you get to this end of the Asturian coast, I also recommend you visit Mexota Beach. This 200-meter-long beach stands out for the huge islet located in the middle that divides the beach in two. Its white sand and crystal-clear waters, along with the nearby beautiful cliffs, create a spectacular landscape.

3. Port of Vega

We arrive at Puerto de Vega, a very small town in the Asturian council of Navia. The typical Asturian mansions and their charming port create a simply magical rural environment. During your walk, you can visit the Juan Pérez Villamil Ethnographic Museum and the Sea Stories Reception Center.

4. Barayo Partial Nature Reserve

One of the most beautiful natural places to visit in Asturias is the Natural Reserve of Barayo. In this little piece of paradise, you will find cliffs, beaches, dunes, islets, and the estuary of the Barayo River. You can walk along a path surrounded by vegetation. After the walk, you can relax on Barayo Beach.

5. Luarca, an old fishing village

We continue with Luarca, one of the most beautiful villages on the west coast of Asturias. It is a fishing village whose port was very important during the Middle Ages. Do not miss these places to visit in Luarca if you are coming to this town: the Mirador del Chano, the Kiss Bridge, the Forest-Garden of La Fonte Baxa, and the Rural Ethnographic Museum of Luarca.

If you do not have much time, the best thing to do is to take a leisurely stroll through its streets. Luarca can be a very good base to get to know the western coast. Check out the hotels in Luarca that are still available.

6. Portizuelo Beach

One of the most spectacular beaches in Asturias is very close to Luarca: Portizuelo Beach. This elongated and narrow beach is striking for the rock formations that appear on the coastline. Among all these forms, we must highlight the one known as “Piedra el Óleo” (Oil Stone), so named thanks to the number of artists who have captured it in their works. If you are a lover of photography, you cannot leave Asturias without setting your lens on it.

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7. Cabo Busto, beautiful sea views

A place that I did not miss on my route through Asturias by motorhome was Cabo Busto. You can make a circular route of 7 km starting from the village of Busto, thanks to which you cross meadows and pine forests with the Cantabrian Sea as a witness. If you prefer, you can go by car to the Busto Lighthouse to appreciate the beautiful scenery.

Now I have great news for those with a sweet tooth. One of the great protagonists of this cape is the Pastelería Cabo Busto. They sell delicious pastries. I don’t have a sweet tooth, and I loved them.

8. Hermitage of the Regalina

Between the towns of Luarca and Cudillero, in a small village called Cadavedo, is the Ermita de la Regalina, a place not so popular among travelers arriving in Asturias but well worth a stop if you pass by on your way.

This hermitage was built in 1931, and what stands out most about it is its wonderful setting. You will be surrounded by cliffs and beautiful beaches (Playa la Regalina and Playa de Cadavedo).

9. Silencio Beach

We’ve arrived at one of the highlights of this road trip in the Asturias coast: Silencio Beach. It is one of the most beautiful beaches in Asturias and possibly the one that receives more tourists every year. There is no lack of reasons. You can enjoy the incredible scenery created by the Cantabrian Sea, the cliffs and islets or go down to the beach by a path of numerous stairs.

10. Cape Vidio, a wonder in the Asturian coast

Cabo Vidio is one of my favorite places in Asturias. Not only because of its beauty, but also because we spent one of the nights here on our trip to Asturias in an RV, and it was simply spectacular. We arrived at lunchtime and didn’t leave until the next morning. We were able to savor every minute we spent in this incredible natural environment.

I recommend watching the sunset from Cabo Vidio and, if you have enough time, going down to Peña Doria Beach.

11. Oleiros Beach

If you are interested in nudist beaches in Asturias, you will love Oleiros Beach. This quiet beach, surrounded by cliffs and pine forests, is ideal for those who want to feel free in a place not frequented by other travelers. To get to this beach of crystal-clear waters, you have to take a short 20-minute walk along a path surrounded by pine trees.

12. Cudillero, one of the most beautiful Asturias coastal towns

We ended our trip along the western coast of Asturias in Cudillero, which is, for many, the most beautiful village in Asturias. Out of all the Asturian villages I have visited, I would say it is also my favorite. Its beautiful colorful houses located in front of the port in the shape of an amphitheater are irresistible.

I recommend you starting your visit in the main square and walk through its streets and viewpoints, try not to miss any of the main places to see in Cudillero in one day!

Cudillero can also be an interesting proposal where to stay in Asturias to visit the western coast. Check out the hotels in Cudillero still available .

🏥 Remember it is very important to purchase travel insurance for Spain if you don’t have medical coverage in this country. I always use and recommend the company Heymondo, where I can offer you a 5% discount on your travel insurance .

Places to visit in the central Asturias coast

We continue with the places you cannot miss on the central coast of Asturias.

Avilés is the third-largest city in Asturias. Although it is not as popular with tourists as Oviedo or Gijón, it is worth a visit to its historic center. Don’t miss the Ferrera Park, the Old Church of Sabugo, the Carbayo Square, the Bances Candamo Street, the Church of Santo Tomás, the Market of Avilés, and the Camposagrado Square. As for beaches, you can go to Salinas Beach or Xagó Beach. You can visit all these places on your own.

If you are going to spend the night in Avilés, don’t miss all the hotels in Avilés that are still available .

14. Cabo de Peñas

Cabo de Peñas is the northernmost point in Asturias. Here, you can enjoy a beautiful landscape composed of the Bay of Biscay and cliffs over 100 meters high. The best way to get to know this place is to walk along the wooden walkway. You will also pass by the Cabo Peñas Lighthouse, which has been in operation since 1852.

15. Gijón, second largest city in Asturias

Gijon could not miss in this list of places to see on the coast of Asturias. If you are going to visit this beautiful city, there are some places that you cannot miss. Among them are the Universidad Laboral de Gijón, Cimadevilla (the oldest and most picturesque neighborhood of Gijón), the Atlantic Botanical Garden, the Revillagigedo Palace, the sculpture Elogio del Horizonte, the Poniente Beach or the San Lorenzo Beach.

If you are going to bas yourself in this city, I recommend you check directly which hotels in Gijón are still available .

16. Tazones, one of the most beautiful villages in the Asturias coast

We continue our route along the coast of Asturias with another charming village: Tazones. This fishing village belonging to the region of Villaviciosa will make you fall in love as soon as you set foot in it. One of the curiosities of this town is that it is part of the imperial routes of Charles V in Europe. In fact, Tazones was the first place in the Iberian Peninsula that the emperor visited when he disembarked in its port in September 1517. You cannot miss the Casa de las Conchas (House of Shells).

💳 To get cash in the local currency of your destination or pay by card, I recommend getting the N26 card . With the free version you can withdraw cash from ATMs with a very low commission and pay in another currency with the best exchange rate and no commissions.

Places to visit on the eastern Asturian coast

We finish this route along the coast of Asturias with the wonders hidden in the eastern coast of Asturias.

17. Rodiles beach, perfect to spend the day by the sea.

If you are traveling to Asturias in a motorhome or van, I highly recommend Rodiles Beach. Same goas if you are road tripping in a car through Asturias! I recommend it, especially to those who are traveling with the house on their backs, because there is a fairly large parking lot where this type of vehicle is allowed to park for the night. It is free of charge.

In addition, the beach is great. It is very extensive and has a wooded area where there are picnic tables. There is also a wooden walkway that reaches the mouth of the Ría de Villaviciosa, perfect for a stroll.

18. Lastres, another town that cannot miss on your trip along the coast.

This place is not only one of the most beautiful villages on the Asturian coast but also one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. You cannot miss it on your road trip through Asturias. If you only have time to visit one place in this village, I recommend you go straight to the San Roque viewpoint. From here, you can see the most typical picturesque scenery of Lastres—a real beauty!

If you are interested in staying in Lastres to visit the east coast, take a look at the hotels in Lastres still available .

19. Fitu Viewpoint

Fitu viewpoint is not located on the coast itself, but the incredible 360º views from here make it worth a short detour. On clear days, you can see the Picos de Europa and the Bay of Biscay. Who wants to miss a view like that? Not me!

20. Ribadesella

At this point, you will have already discovered that Asturias is home to some of the most beautiful villages in northern Spain. If Luarca, Cudillero, Tazones, or Lastres are not enough for you, here is another town you will fall in love with: Ribadesella. A town where you can enjoy the sea, nature, long walks, and the elegance of its mansions

Do not miss the Cave Art Center of Tito Bustillo or the Hermitage of the Virgin of Guía de Ribadesella. If you prefer adventure, I suggest you make the descent of the river Sella by canoe .

If you want to stay in a charming place, Ribadesella is a great option. Find out which hotels in Ribadesella are still available .

21. Cliffs of Hell

If you like hiking, especially along the coast, take note of this place: Acantilados del Infierno (Cliffs of Hell). This walking route will take you along spectacular cliffs overlooking the sea and different rock formations. The complete route goes from the recreational area of El Infierno to the recreational area of Guadamía.

The one-way route is almost 6 kilometers long. If you do not want to return the same way, you can take a circular route and return by road located further inland.

22. Bufones de Pría, a spectacle of nature on the coast of Asturias

If you want to enjoy a real spectacle of nature, I recommend you visit the Bufones de Pría. Here you can see how the sea water comes out at high pressure through huge chimneys created in the earth due to erosion. To be able to witness this wonder, it is best to go when the tide is high and the sea is rough. To get there, you must first go to the small village of Llames de Pría.

23. Canal Beach

One of the most striking beaches in Asturias, and not yet well known, is Playa de la Canal. This small cove stands out due to its enormous saltwater canyon. It creates a pool of calm water very pleasant for bathing. It can be accessed on foot from Villanueva de Pría.

24. Cuevas del Mar Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches

From one beach, we jump to another. The beach of Cuevas del Mar is one of the most beautiful beaches in Asturias and an obligatory stop during your route along the coast of Asturias. Tourists come here to marvel at the gigantic rock formations that give rise to tunnels and caves. a real beauty.

25. Beach of San Antonio de Mar

In 2020, Condé Nast Traveler readers voted San Antonio de Mar Beach as the best beach in Spain. I do not know if it is the best, but certainly its beauty is undeniable. It is a shell-shaped cove with clear sand and crystal-clear water, surrounded by cliffs and meadows of intense green. The Asturian paradise

26. Gulpiyuri Beach, unique and different

Gulpiyuri Beach is one of the most incredible natural wonders in Spain. What makes this beach so special is that it has no direct outlet to the sea. The water of the Cantabrian Sea seeps between the cliffs and gives rise to this unique and special landscape. The beach is only 40 meters long. Its sand is white, and the water is clear. During high tide, there is hardly any visible sand.

27. Torimbia Beach

Still looking forward to more beaches? Relax; there are still a few left. We continue with Torimbia Beach, which, in my opinion, is one of the most spectacular beaches in Asturias. This 500 meters long, white sand, and shell-shaped beach is a real treasure. Access to it is on foot. Be sure to visit the Torimbia viewpoint if you want to enjoy a wonderful landscape.

28. San Martin Beach

If you are more into wild beaches, do not leave Asturias without a visiting San Martin beach, located near the town of Llanes. It is much less crowded than other beaches in the area, and you can enjoy a very beautiful landscape. Here, the sea can have quite a lot of waves, so it will not be unusual if you see a surfers catching a few waves.

29. Llanes, another charming town

Another village on the eastern coast of Asturias that you cannot miss is Llanes. Stroll through the historic center, walk along the coast watching the waves, delight your palate thanks to its rich cuisine… Llanes has the perfect ingredients for a charming visit. I recommend you walk along the Paseo de San Pedro. It is a real wonder.

Llanes is one of the favorite towns for tourists to set up base and get to know the rest of the region. Do not miss all the hotels in Llanes that are still available .

30. Ballota Beach

We finish our tour along the coast of Asturias at Ballota Beach, a simply spectacular beach. During high tide, much of this beach, which is 750 meters long, is covered by the sea. It usually has quite a lot of waves. In front of the beach, there is a large islet, which creates a very beautiful landscape.

Where to stay to visit the Asturias coast

Now that you know all the places you can visit on the coast, it’s time to choose your hotels. My advice is that if you want to spend the whole stay in the same hotel, stay in a central area. On the other hand, if you don’t mind changing accommodations, I recommend booking several nights in a hotel located on the west coast and other nights in a hotel on the east coast.

In my article on where to stay in Asturias , you can find more information on this subject. For the moment, I will give you a preview of several coastal locations where to make a base, and I will also suggest a hotel for each place:

• Luarca: Hotel Torre De Villademoros , one of the best hotels in Asturias.
• Cudillero: Casona de la Paca .
• Gijón: Hotel Quinta Duro , one of the best hotels to stay in Gijón.
• Lastres: Hotel Eutimio .
• Ribadesella: La Biesca Sebreñu .
• Llanes: Don Paco .

Map of the Asturias coast

In the following map, I have marked all the places to visit on your route along the Asturian coast mentioned in this article. I have also pointed out the towns and hotels where I recommend staying, with their respective links to Booking.

Don’t miss my Spain travel guide if you are organizing a route through this country.

I hope this article about what to see on the coast of Asturias has been very useful in planning your route along the Asturias coast. If you have any questions, I encourage you to leave a comment or write me an email. See you next time!

• PLAN A TRIP STEP BY STEP

↠ Book free tours and guided visits on Civitatis or GetYourGuide . I always use these platforms to check what organized activities there are at my destination.

↠ To pay with card in foreign currency or withdraw money from ATMs, I always use this card (there are free and paid plans). It works the best!

↠ Traveling with travel insurance to a destination where you don’t have healthcare coverage is a must. Get your insurance 5% cheaper with this link .

↠ If you want to have cellphone data at your destination from the moment you land and don’t want to waste time, there is nothing like this eSIM . Use the code “comeamaviaja” for a 5% discount.

↠ Check out Booking’s offers , a platform I always use, as I always find very good options thanks to its search engine with filters.

↠ For destinations where I need to rent a car, I always check Discover Cars and Auto Europe search engines. I recommend them!

↠ If you still need to buy flights for your trip, there is no better search engine than Skyscanner (although I always recommend booking the flight on the company’s website).

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Climate - Asturias (Spain)

• Introduction - Gijón , Oviedo

Introduction

Isaac Del Toro solos to opening stage win at Vuelta Asturias

UAE Team Emirates rider takes first leader's jersey in Pola de Lena

Isaac del Toro (UAE Team Emirates) won the opening stage at the Vuelta Asturias and took the event's first leader's jersey.

Del Toro made a late-race attack and crossed the line 1:01 ahead of runner-up and teammate Rafał Majka, while Eric Antonio Fagúndez (Burgos-BH) finished in third on the day.

Del Toro now leads the overall classification by 1:05 over Majka and 1:10 ahead of Fagúndez as the race continues on stage 2 on Saturday.

The opening stage at Vuelta Asturias was a demanding 180km from Cangas del Narcea to Pola de Lena. 

A six-rider breakaway  Francisco Muñoz (Team Polti Kometa), Oliver Rees (Sabgal-Anicolor), José María García and Asier Pablo Gonzalez (Illes Balears Arabay), Ibon Ruiz (Equipo Kern Pharma) and Victor Martínez (Sidi Ali-Unlock).

They gained a maximum of five minutes on the field led by UAE Team Emirates, as and with 70km to go, they raced toward the fourth of five climbs during the stage, Alto Tenebreo.

Some 40 riders made up the main field in the closing kilometres, with the breakaway caught at about 20km from the line.

A late-race move included José Manuel Díaz (Burgos-BH) and Gonzalo Serrano (Movistar), and while they gained 40 seconds, their efforts came to an end with five kilometres to go.

Del Torro made his winning move with a counter-attack and pushed his lead out to a minute as he crossed the line with a solo victory in Pola de Lena.

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Kirsten Frattini is the Deputy Editor of Cyclingnews , overseeing the global racing content plan.

Kirsten has a background in Kinesiology and Health Science. She has been involved in cycling from the community and grassroots level to professional cycling's biggest races, reporting on the WorldTour, Spring Classics, Tours de France, World Championships and Olympic Games.

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Es el sitio definitivo para tus rutas de senderismo: el pueblo de Asturias ideal para desconectar

Un pueblo espectacular para los amantes de la naturaleza y el senderismo, está en cantabria y no te lo puedes perder: es uno de los mejores pueblos de la zona, el pueblo español más bonito y con el que retrocederás en el tiempo está en cantabria.

• Janire Manzanas
• Graduada en Marketing y experta en Marketing Digital. Redactora en OK Diario. Experta en curiosidades, mascotas, consumo y Lotería de Navidad.
• 02/05/2024 09:05
• Actualizado: 02/05/2024 09:05

Sus senderos serpentean a través de densos bosques , arroyos cristalinos y majestuosos acantilados, ofreciendo experiencias únicas y memorables a quienes se aventuran por ellos. Para los entusiastas del aire libre , este rincón asturiano se convierte en un destino imprescindible para aquellos que anhelan conectar con la naturaleza en su forma más auténtica en cualquier epoca del año.

Abiegos, el pueblo más auténtico de Asturias

Anidado en las majestuosas colinas del norte de España, emerge Abiegos , un encantador enclave de casitas con tejados rojizos y calles adoquinadas. Este rincón de arquitectura tradicional se sitúa en un entorno privilegiado, rodeado de exuberante naturaleza y aire fresco.

Explorar Abiegos no solo implica pasear entre sus pintorescas viviendas de piedra y visitar su iglesia del siglo XVIII, sino que también ofrece la oportunidad de embarcarse en fascinantes rutas de senderismo para todos los niveles. En resumen, Abiegos es un destino rural perfecto para una escapada, donde el descanso y la desconexión están garantizados.

Qué ver

El legado histórico y arquitectónico de la villa se revela a través de monumentos como la peña El Castiellu, un antiguo bastión celta que ahora sirve como mirador, ofreciendo una vistas impresionantes del valle y las escarpadas laderas del Tiatordos. Además, en tiempos romanos, Abiegos desempeñó un papel crucial en el Camino Real de la Mesa, una antigua vía que conectaba Asturias con Castilla.

Paseando por las sinuosas callejuelas de este pueblo de Asturias, nos encontramos con joyas arquitectónicas como la Casa de la Merreguera , una imponente casona del siglo XVII con su característico tejado a cuatro aguas, una entrada de arco y un encantador balcón de madera. Asimismo, destaca la Iglesia de San Lorenzo, construida en el siglo XVIII en un estilo sencillo y austero, como un símbolo de devoción en la comunidad local.

Rutas de senderismo

En el majestuoso Parque Natural de Redes , el Pico Tiatordos se alza a una altitud de 1.951 metros, dominando el paisaje con su figura escarpada y grandiosa. Desde Abiegos, los entusiastas del senderismo y la naturaleza pueden emprender diversas rutas que exploran los alrededores.

Una opción es la Ruta del Valle de Ponga PR.AS-213 , que en unas treshoras y media lleva a los excursionistas a través de hermosos parajes hasta pueblos cercanos como San Juan de Beleño y Sobrefoz.

Para aquellos que buscan algo más relajado, el camino de Abiegos a Tanda , con solo seis kilómetros de extensión y un desnivel de 200 metros, ofrece una experiencia gratificante.

Sin embargo, para los aventureros más intrépidos, la verdadera prueba está en la ascensión al propio Pico Tiatordos , una ruta de dificultad alta, pero que merece mucho la pena por sus vistas incomparables.

Los pueblos más bonitos

Tazones , un pequeño puerto pesquero, transporta a sus visitantes a tiempos pasados con su ambiente tranquilo y auténtico. Las pintorescas casas de pescadores y el entorno natural montañoso hacen de este lugar una joya en la costa asturiana.

Cangas de Onís , primera capital del Reino de Asturias, es un tesoro histórico con su famoso puente romano y la Cruz de la Victoria. Cerca de los Lagos de Covadonga, es un punto de partida perfecto para explorar la belleza natural de la región.

Llanes , antiguo puerto ballenero, combina historia y cultura con sus calles medievales y su casco antiguo declarado Conjunto Histórico-Artístico. Destacan las imponentes Casonas de Indianos y el icónico puerto adornado con la obra «Los Cubos de la Memoria».

Cudillero , conocido por sus pintorescas casas colgantes, es un pueblo marinero que cautiva con su encanto único. Declarado Conjunto Histórico Artístico, los monumentos más importante son el Palacio Selgas y la Capilla del Humilladero, dos joyas arquitectónicas que narran parte de su historia.

Lastres enamora a sus visitantes con su puerto marítimo y sus casas de estilo colonial. Sus calles estrechas y empinadas brindan vistas incomparables del océano, sumergiendo a los viajeros en la vida tradicional asturiana.

Luarca , la «Villa Blanca de la Costa Verde», seduce con su puerto pesquero y sus casas de estilo indiano. Lugares emblemáticos como su faro y el cementerio de la Atalaya, con vistas al mar, hacen de Luarca un destino lleno de encanto.

En la costa asturiana se encuentra Cudillero , un encantador pueblo que cautiva con su pintoresco puerto pesquero escalonado sobre una colina. Sus viviendas de colores vivos y sus calles empedradas ofrecen un escenario perfecto para los amantes de la fotografía y la serenidad.

Taramundi , rodeado de bosques y montañas, ofrece una auténtica experiencia rural asturiana. Famoso por su artesanía en cuchillería y sus molinos de agua, es un lugar ideal para explorar y llevarse un recuerdo único de la tradición local.

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