2001 plymouth voyager fuel pump

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Tuesday, April 11, 2017

How to replace the fuel filter and fuel pump 1996-2002 caravan, voyager or town and country,                                                 the job at a glance.

• Tools:  Vice grip pliers, 10mm and 15mm wrench or socket and ratchet, strap wrench. Breaker bar may be needed. Also: Rags, pan to catch fuel 
• Parts: Fuel filter, fuel pump 
• Cost of parts: Filter $32; Fuel pump $58-$150 
• Time: 2 hours    

Fuel system purge

Fuel Filter removal

Fuel Pump Removal

Fuel pump installation, fuel filter installation, 14 comments:.

Thanks for sharing such a wonderful instruction. As a vehicle owner, it is our duty to take care of our vehicle and do regular check-ups at every regular interval. But in the case of any big troubles like fuel filter change, engine problems, spark plug and battery problems, we need to consult expert advice. I would like to follow some essential instructions from this article regarding replacing a fuel filter. Smart Car Service NYC

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2001-2003 Chrysler VOYAGER - GRAND VOYAGER Fuel Pump 4Cyl. 2.4L

• Walbro OEM Fuel Pump Kit - PN# TU153 .
• High QualityWalbro Fuel Pump OE Spec, Guarantee Fitment!

• 2.0L Stratus, Breeze
• 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager
• 2.7L, 3.3L, 3.5L, 3.8L
• 3.9L, 5.2L, 5.9L
• 1.6L Fiesta
• 4.6L Crown Vic
• 4.6L, 5.4L Vans
• 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L
• 5.0L Mustang
• 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L
• 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L
• 3.0L, 3.3L, 3.5L

How To Test The Fuel Pump (1996-2000 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager)

• By: Abraham Torres-Arredondo
• Created: 16 October 2023
• Updated: 20 February 2024
• Articl Id: 1078

Testing the fuel pump isn't difficult at all on the 2.4L engine in your minivan. In this tutorial, I'll explain how using a fuel pressure test gauge.

With your test results you'll easily find out if the fuel pump is bad or not.

I'll also show you how to use starting fluid to figure out if your mini-van's engine no-start problem is due to a lack of fuel.

Contents of this tutorial:

• Symptoms Of A Bad Fuel Pump .
• Where To Buy A Fuel Pressure Gauge .
• Fuel Pressure Specifications .
• Fuel Pressure Test With A Gauge .
• Using Starting Fluid To Check For A Lack Of Fuel .

APPLIES TO: This tutorial applies to the following vehicles:

• 2.4L Chrysler Voyager: 2000.
• 2.4L Dodge Caravan: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000.
• 2.4L Dodge Grand Caravan: 1996, 1997.
• 2.4L Plymouth Voyager: 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000.
• 2.4L Plymouth Grand Voyager: 1996, 1997.

CAUTION: Gasoline and starting fluid are extremely flammable. Be careful and take all necessary safety precautions. Make sure to perform all tests with a cooled down engine, work in a well-ventilated area, and stay away from open flames or sparks.

Symptoms Of A Bad Fuel Pump

The fuel pump in your minivan is going to fail in one of two ways. Here are the specifics:

• Complete failure: This is the most common type of failure and will cause the engine to not start.
• Slow failure: In this type of failure, the engine starts and runs but runs bad, especially under load.

To be a bit more specific, here are some of the symptoms you'll see from a complete fuel pump failure:

• The engine cranks but doesn't start.
• No fuel pressure is detected.
• No noise from the fuel pump.

These are some of the symptoms of a slow fuel pump failure:

• Lack of power when accelerating the engine under load.
• Unexplained loss of power.
• Bad gas mileage.
• The engine suddenly stalls.

Whether the fuel pump in your mini-van has suffered a complete failure or is just starting to fail, a fuel pump pressure test will help you identify the problem. Not only that, but this simple test will speed up your fuel pump diagnostic, meaning you'll spend less time (and less frustration) solving the issue and be able to replace the right part.

Where to Buy a Fuel Pressure Gauge

You'll need a fuel pressure test gauge kit to check the fuel pump pressure. The good news is that you can buy them at almost any auto parts store and online (and they don't cost an arm a leg).

The following fuel pressure test kits are very good deals and will connect to the vehicles included in this tutorial:

All of the fuel pressure test kits above have the adapter that'll connect to the fuel pressure test port of your mini-van.

Fuel Pressure Specifications

• KOEO = Key On Engine Off.
• KOER = Key On Engine Running.

Fuel Pressure Test With A Gauge

The thing that makes testing the fuel pump easy on your 2.4L equipped minivan is that the fuel injector rail comes equipped with a test port. This test port is known as a Schrader valve (see photo above).

It's to this Schrader valve that we're gonna connect a fuel pressure test gauge and check the fuel pump's pressure.

If the fuel pump is functioning correctly, you should obtain a fuel pressure reading that matches the specifications listed here: Fuel Pressure Specifications .

OK, let's get started:

Disconnect the ignition coil from its electrical connector . NOTE: This step only applies if the engine starts and runs.

Remove the dust cap from the Schrader valve on the fuel injector rail.

Place a towel under the area of the Schrader valve .

Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve . Use a towel to dry any fuel that may have been released during the gauge connection process.

When you're ready, have your assistant crank the engine while you observe the pressure gauge.

The gauge should display the specified fuel pressure .

Let's analyze your test result:

CASE 1: The fuel pump pressure is within specification . This tells you the fuel pump is in good working condition and supplying fuel to the injectors.

If the engine doesn't start, then this test result rules out the fuel pump as the source of the engine's 'cranks but does not start' issue.

CASE 2: The fuel pump pressure is NOT within specification . This result tells you that the fuel pump is not functioning. Since the fuel pump isn't working, you can now conclude that it's behind the 'cranks but does not start'.

Using Starting Fluid To Check For A Lack Of Fuel

The starting fluid test has been one of my go-to methods for testing an engine no-start problem since the early days of my auto repair career.

This test consists of spraying starting fluid into the throttle body and then having a helper crank the engine. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds, you can bet it's not getting fuel from the pump. If it doesn't start (with the starting fluid), then there's another issue at play.

IMPORTANT: This test is accurate only when all four spark plug wires are delivering spark to their spark plugs, so test them for spark with a spark tester before you begin.

OK, here are the test steps:

Remove the intake air duct from the throttle body . You don't have to remove it completely as you'll need to reconnect it in one of the following steps.

Manually open the throttle plate and spray starting fluid into the throttle body bore .

Quickly reconnect the air duct to the throttle body (no need to tighten the hose clamp). NOTE: Reconnecting the intake air duct is a very important safety precaution in case of backfire through the intake manifold.

Crank the engine once the intake air duct is back on the throttle body.

You'll get one of two results: 1.) The engine will briefly start, run and then shut off after a few seconds. 2.) The engine cranks but doesn't start at all.

Alright, let's figure out what it all means:

CASE 1: The engine started and ran for a few seconds . This confirms that the issue of your vehicle cranking but not starting is due to a lack of fuel.

I suggest your next step should be testing the fuel pump pressure with a pressure gauge. For this test, go to: Fuel Pressure Test With A Gauge .

CASE 2: The engine did NOT start, not even briefly . This indicates that a lack of fuel is not the reason why the engine won't start.

If this info saved the day, buy me a beer!

• How To Test The TPS (1998-2000 2.4L Dodge, Plymouth Mini-Van)
• How To Test The MAP Sensor (1996-2000 2.4L Dodge, Plymouth Mini-Van)
• Testing Engine Compression (1996-2007 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager)
• Testing The Crankshaft Position Sensor (1996-2002 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager)
• How To Test For A Blown Head Gasket (1996-2007 2.4L Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager, Grand Voyager)

Applies To:

Chrysler Vehicles:

• 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003

Dodge Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007

Plymouth Vehicles:

• 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000

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1996 Plymouth Voyager

1996 Plymouth Voyager - Fuel Pump

• Delphi Automotive
• MasterPro Fuel Pumps
• Precision Fuel Pumps

Voltage (V)

Flow rate (gph), precision fuel pump module assembly, masterpro fuel pump module assembly.

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Fuel Pump Assembly Electrical Module with Sending Unit fit Fit for 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 Voyager for Dodge Caravan for Chrysler Town Country for Plymouth Voyager V6 3.3L Compatible with E7094M

Purchase options and add-ons, about this item.

• COMPATIBLE WITH: Fuel Pumps for 2000 for Chrysler Voyager 2.4L,2000 for Chrysler Voyager 3.3L,2000 for Chrysler Voyager 3L,1996-2000 for Dodge Caravan 2.4L,1996-1999 for Dodge Caravan 3.8L,1996-2000 for Dodge Caravan 3L,1996-1997 for Dodge Grand Caravan 2.4L,1996-2000 for Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L,1996-2000 for Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L,1996-2000 for Dodge Grand Caravan 3L,1996-1997 for Plymouth Grand Voyager 2.4L,1996-2000 for Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3L
• LONG USING LIFE: All the Fuel Pumps are for oil optimization design, liquid level sensor in the oil drum to better defend and prolong the service life of the product
• EASY INSTALLATION: Electric Fuel Pumps, flexible assembly design, easy to replace pump core, lightweight and easy to install, save time and effort, no worries about installation of stubborn
• ATTENTION: All the Fuel Pump doesn't come with pressure sensor, please replace with the original black one
• MAKE SURE IT FITS: Before placing the order, please check your car model in the Amazon Fitment System in the top left corner. Compatibility information provided is for reference only.

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Product Description

2000 for Chrysler Grand Voyager 3.3L 1996-2000 for Chrysler for Town & Country 3.3L 1996-2000 for Chrysler for Town & Country 3.8L 2000 for Chrysler Voyager 2.4L 2000 for Chrysler Voyager 3.0L 2000 for Chrysler Voyager 3.3L 1996-2000 for Dodge Caravan 2.4L 1996-2000 for Dodge Caravan 3.0L 1996-2000 for Dodge Caravan 3.3L 1996-1999 for Dodge Caravan 3.8L 1996-1997 for Dodge Grand Caravan 2.4L 1996-2000 for Dodge Grand Caravan 3.0L 1996-2000 for Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L 1996-2000 for Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L 1996-1997 for Plymouth Grand Voyager 2.4L 1996-2000 for Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.0L 1996-2000 for Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3L 1996-1999 for Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.8L 1996-2000 for Plymouth Voyager 2.4L 1996-2000 for Plymouth Voyager 3.0L 1996-2000 for Plymouth Voyager 3.3L 1997-1999 for Plymouth Voyager 3.8L Tips of installation instruction: 1. Take product by left hand and hold the middle of the wing arm by right hand. 2. Place one end of swing arm into opening. 3. Press swing arm into bracket position slot gently while securing if firmly. 4. Gently sway swing arm to ensure a fluid motion without any stick points and put away product carefully after finishing assembly. Type：Gerotor Volts：12 GPH (Free Flow)：45-55 Max Pump PSI (Not System)：90-100 Inlet Type：Strainer Outlet Size：3/8 in. Outlet Type：Quick Connect

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How do you replace the fuel pump in a 1994 Plymouth Voyager?

My 1995 Plymouth Voyager, at 150,000 miles, developed thedreaded "Fuel Pump Problem" - occasionally, it wouldn't start. Looking on the web for advice, I found "ifyou pound on the tank, and it starts, it's probably the fuel pump." I pounded, and it started - for a while. One evening, at a friend's house, it wouldn'tstart, even after vigorous pounding. Igot a ride home, then started calling around to see how much towing it homewould be. Finally, I went over to thefriend's house, and I was talking to a place about coming to get it, when Ithought "Maybe I should give it one more try." It started, I drove it home, and I put it in my driveway. I had another car available.

I knew that the tank had to be removed to replace the pump,and I wasn't looking forward to that - one bit. I hate crawling around under cars. But, I figured having the pump replaced would be so expensive that Ishould give it a try. I ordered a fuelpump from Ebay ($100), and I got a Chilton repair manual, which includedinstructions on removing the fuel tank. I scoured the web for tips on doing the job, and the number one problemarea seemed to be supporting the tank while getting it out. Of course, I siphoned the fuel out (using thelittle tube provided for that on the back of the tank). I didn't lose very much.

Finally, the big day came. I already knew that you're supposed to "release the fuel pressure"before undoing the fuel lines. Therepair manual had instructions for this, which involved hooking up the batteryto some leads in some alternate manner. Unfortunately, the battery was dead (the car had been sitting for awhile). I tried charging it, but itdidn't seem to charge. So, I decided Iprobably needed a new battery. I calledaround, and the cheapest available was a Sears 'Easy-Start', for $42.99 (Ifound out later that Napa Auto Parts had one for $30.99. Darn!). After getting the battery, I decided that, since the car had beensitting, the fuel pressure was probably 'released' already, so I didn't botherwith the instructions. Oh, well, Ineeded the battery anyway. Sears tested myold one and said it was bad - I suppose just from sitting.

Finally, I crawled under the van to undo the tank. The first thing was to remove the fuel lines. I tugged at them, but they wouldn'tbudge. There were no hose clamps, so Isuspected something else was holding them on - but what? The manual simply says "Remove the fuellines." Back to the web for moreadvice. Fortunately, I found an articlewhich talked about replacing a leaking fuel pressure line on this type ofvehicle, and it described pushing in the black plastic ring on the connection torelease it. The manual should havementioned that. A little fuel came outof the pressure line, but it wasn't too bad. Don't try removing the fuel tank in an enclosed space, however.

Once that hurdle was crossed, I started trying to undo thetank strap bolts. I assumed, since it'san American car, that they would be 9/16" or 5/8". Wrong! They're 15mm. So, I had to findmy metric socket set. That took awhile. Then I started undoing the bolts,and they didn't want to turn. I thought"Must be rust!" I put some kerosene onthem, but that didn't help. Checking on the web for advice, I saw mention of PB Blaster, supposedly the best thing forfreeing tight bolts. Finding a placethat had it (Napa Auto Parts) took a while, and by the time I got back with it,sprayed it on, and waited for it to work, there was another couple of hoursshot. Turns out, it didn't do anygood. Apparently the nuts are thelocking type.

So, with the fuel tank supported by a jack, I undid thestraps. The bolts are rather long, soit's ratchet, ratchet, ratchet. While Iwas ratcheting, I was wondering how I was going to get the tank off of thejack, since it would still be several inches off the driveway with the jackfully lowered, but it turned out that was not a problem - the empty tank is notheavy at all. What did turn out to be aproblem - a very annoying problem - was getting the tank off the fillerpipe. Trying to hold up the tank withone foot while wiggling it, and wiggling the filler pipe, and seeing almostzero movement, and then gradually realizing that the filler pipe sticks intothe tank about 4 inches, was not fun. Ihad to jack up the other side of the car so the tank could clear the muffler asit came off the filler pipe. Plus,thestraps always seemed to be in the way. Incidentally, before youstart to remove the tank, you have to remove the screws that hold thefiller pipe to the body, where the filler cap is.

Another problem in removing the tank was the 'vaporseparator rollover pipe' which goes from the top of the tank to the fillerpipe. It had one of those 'one-use'crimped hose clamps. I tried getting inthere with wire cutters to cut the crimp, but getting my hand around and overthe tank and putting any pressure on the wire cutters was impossible. I finally used a hacksaw blade to saw throughthe crimp. Even then, getting the rubberhose off of the plastic tube was very difficult, because of the crampedconditions. Plus, be aware that the tankflange has razor-sharp edges on it (also inside the tank, after you get the pump out!) . I'mlucky that the scrapes and cuts I got doing this will only take a few days toheal.

I would like to take this opportunity to suggest that thebean-counters who were responsible for this whole situation should be lined upagainst a wall and machine-gunned. Yes,the tank is a great place for the pump, that is, until you have to replace thepump. The car is undoubtedly lessexpensive to build with this design, plus I'm sure repair shops just love it!

Once the tank was finally off, it was time to remove thefuel pump from it. The repair manual didnot mention that there is a special locking ring holding the pump, the kindwith four little tabs sticking up about 1/8" inch. Somewhere on the web I noticed a reference toremoving the ring by tapping it with a screwdriver and hammer. I tried this, but I could see it wasn't goingto budge. I didn't want to try beatingit hard enough to get it loose, because I was afraid of damaging the tank. So, I went into my machine shop and made aspecial wrench (out of 1/8" aluminum plate) to remove it (and reinstallit). This took a couple of tries, butthe second version worked great. Basically, it's got sort of a 'Y' shape, to go around the pipes andprovide a handle, and two 6-32 nuts (held by short screws) which bear on two ofthe tabs.

One thing that was mentioned in a couple of references tothis procedure was cleaning the inside of the tank. They made it sound like the bottom of thetank was going to be covered with gunk, and I was wondering exactly how I wasgoing to clean it. However, When I gotthe pump out, and looked inside the tank, it looked beautiful. A bit of clean gasoline floating around on a clean metal surface. There were a couple of pieces ofunidentifiable crud on the bottom of the tank, which I removed.

<o:p></o:p>To make a long story shorter, I installed the new pump, gotthe tank reinstalled (easier than removing it, but still a pain), poured aboutthree gallons of gas in the tank, and tried starting it. It wouldn't start, after numerous tries, andI was really bummed out! I didn't want towork on it any more, and I was trying to think of what to do. I did look at the manual's description offuel pressure testing, and I noticed something about having such-and-suchamount of fuel in the tank during some particular test. I had about three more gallons of gasavailable, so I poured that in. It startedright up. Was that 'priming the pump'?

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How do you replace the fuel filter in a 1999 Plymouth Voyager?

Check out the related link for instructions on how to change the fuel filter in a 1999 Plymouth Voyager.

Where is the fuel filter and fuel pump for a 1998 Plymouth Voyager?

where is the fuel pump shut off valve for a 2001 Plymouth voyager

1996 Plymouth Voyager where is the fuel pressure regualator?

The fuel pressure regulator is part of the fuel pump on a 1996 Plymouth Voyager.

How fix Fuel injector leak Plymouth Voyager?

replace the rubber o rings u may have to replace the injector if its leaking fuel through it

Where is the fuel cutoff inertia switch on a 1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager LE?

to the best of my knowledge, there is no such switch

Where is the fuel pump location on a 1994 Plymouth Voyager 3 l v6?

The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank.

Where is the fuel filter on a 1994 Plymouth Voyager?

It is on the inside of the passenger side "frame" rail, about half way from the front to back.

Where is the fuel filter located for a 1994 Plymouth voyager with a 2.5 liter engine?

Under the van, on the right side"frame".

Where is the fuel filter located on a 1997 Plymouth voyager 2.4 liter?

The fuel filter on a 1997 Plymouth Voyager is mounted above the onboard edge of the fuel tank.

Where is the fuel pump for 1997 Plymouth Voyager?

It is in the fuel tank.

How do you replace the fuel line on a 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager?

take off the old one and put on the new one

Where is the fuel pump located on a 1994 Plymouth voyager?

In the fuel tank. Tank has to be lowered to access.In the fuel tank. Tank has to be lowered to access.

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