acropolis and acropolis museum tour with entry tickets

Visiting the Acropolis: Acropolis Entrance Fees, Hours, Best Tickets +Tours

Visiting the Acropolis and its highlights such as the remains of the Parthenon, the Temple of Athena Nike, the Propylaia, the Erechtheion, and the Odeon of Herodotus Atticus is a must for any Greek itinerary.

However, there are a few things to consider including changes made by the Greek government in 2023. This guide includes everything you need to know, from Acropolis entry fees to hours and what to expect. Check out the 3 tickets and 3 tours that are each booked hundreds of times each day to have the least crowded and fun visit to these incredible ancient monuments.

Visiting the Acropolis: Highlights

The word “Acropolis” means “highest point” and this once mighty citadel looks down and across a bustling city of 665,000 Athenians.

For anyone with even a passing interest in Greece or history or democracy, the historical site of the Acropolis is iconic.

Visiting the Acropolis, the most important archaeological site in Greece has been a dream of travelers for centuries, and many famous writers have been inspired by this incredible open-air museum.

It’s hard to imagine almost anywhere else where you can see, in one day, this amount of history, myth, and legend.

From the epic duel between Poseidon and Athena to King Aegeus, who is believed to have flung himself off the Acropolis thinking the Minotaur had eaten his son, get ready for a mythological extravaganza!

If you’d like to see the Acropolis without a guide, here’s a comprehensive self-guided walking tour of the Acropolis.

What you need to know before you visit – Changes from 2023

The Acropolis is Athens’ most famous and popular attraction, and it sees millions of visitors every year – so things are pretty well run.

However, to make the most of your visit to the Acropolis, a little bit of pre-planning goes a long way!

• In 2023 the Greek government began shutting the Acropolis from midday until after 5 pm because of the prolonged heatwave conditions in Athens.
• To minimize the number of people in distress from queueing during heatwaves, the government has now capped the number of visitors to the Acropolis at 20,000 visitors per day.
• It’s more important than ever to pre-book a ticket and be at the Acropolis when it opens if you are going to visit the Acropolis in June, July, or August.
• However, the Greek government has also introduced ticket timings and is threatening to close the Acropolis to ‘regular’ ticket holders before 9 pm and after 5 pm to accommodate small private tours that will cost several thousand Euros. This is still under consideration.
• Even if you’re there first thing, however, there will be school and coach tours there for the opening, but at least you’ll beat the worst of the heat.

How to get Acropolis Tickets

The easiest way to get Acropolis tickets is to buy them online. This will save you a lot of time and hassle in getting your ticket.

While you can usually buy them at the entrance, the lineup is usually huge – sometimes several hours in summer! So it’s much better to buy them online in advance.

(The exception is arriving in winter and there’s a ticket machine on the south-side entrance near the Theater of Dionysus).

It is possible to buy the tickets directly from the official Electronic Ticket System website which was launched in mid-2018 but they seem to be booked out by tour companies all the time.

It’s just a lot simpler to buy your ticket online through a service like Get Your Guide.

🏛️ The best instant online ticket that you can download directly to your phone (no printing or having to exchange the electronic ticket for a paper one at a site removed from the Acropolis) is here .

🏛️ The best Acropolis and Acropolis Museum online ticket combination is here. All of these entrance tickets come with an audio guide.

And the best online ticket, if you’d like to visit up to 7 ancient sites in Athens, is the Acropolis Combo Pass (more about it below).

The main reason for choosing a Get Your Guide ticket is that you can change the date (or even cancel) your ticket if your plans change.

On the other hand, tickets bought through the Ministry of Culture and Sports are non-refundable.

Another reason is that the Acropolis admission-only ticket is the best in the class “skip-the-line tickets.” The Acropolis in Athens can get extremely busy, and you don’t want to waste good exploring time lining up!

It does cost an additional €5, but I think this is well worth it – especially in the busy peak times.

I also recommend Get Your Guide instead of some other well-known online skip-the-line companies because with these companies you almost always have to exchange your online ticket for a physical one at a kiosk several hundred meters down a steep hill from the attraction. I MUCH prefer to simply have my Acropolis Admission ticket emailed to me and then show this on my phone as I enter the Acropolis.

A final reason to choose Get Your Guide rather than other skip-the-line Acropolis vendors is that I have had these companies refuse to refund tickets when they state that the Acropolis is open, but when I have turned up, it’s closed.

For the best Acropolis guided tours (and for those that include the Acropolis Museum as an option), see the Best Acropolis Tours section below.

Acropolis Entrance Fees

The Acropolis ticket price changes depending on the time of year that you are visiting. From 1 April to 31 October (high season), an adult ticket to the Acropolis is €20 .

Between 1 November and 31 March (low season), all adults are entitled to the reduced price of €10.

Other visitors may be entitled to a 50% price reduction on tickets. This includes EU citizens over 65 years old and tertiary students from non-EU countries.

You’ll need a valid ID to get discounted entry to the Acropolis.

Some visitors are entitled to free entry to the Acropolis. This includes all children under the age of 18 and students of EU universities, with a valid ID or passport. You can find the full list here.

Free Admission days for visiting the Acropolis

There are several days per year when it is free for everyone to visit the Acropolis. It can be terribly crowded on these days, however, that’s a big discount! The free days for the Acropolis are:

• Last weekend of September
• Every first Sunday from November 1 st to March 31 st

You do not need to book a ticket in advance on the free days – just queue at the ticket line at the main entrance to the site (as early as you can, to avoid waiting a couple of hours in a long queue.)

The Acropolis Combo Pass

If you are planning to visit several of Athens’s blockbuster archaeological sites, this combination ticket is fantastic value, gives you entry to up to seven sites, and saves so much hassle!

In addition to visiting the Acropolis, you can choose to visit the Acropolis Hill, Hadrian’s Library, the Ancient Agora, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Roman Agora, Kerameikos, The National Archaeological Museum, and Aristotle’s School on this ticket.

There is no guide and you use the “skip the line” queue at each archaeological site. The Acropolis Combo Pass includes three digital audio tours to download to your phone as well as three offline interactive maps.

So when is the Acropolis open?

Acropolis Hours

The site is open nearly every day of the year, with only a couple of annual closures. The Acropolis and Parthenon opening hours do vary a little depending on the season. The usual Acropolis open hours are:

• November 1 to March 31: 8 am to 5 pm
• April 1 to October 31: 8 am to 7 pm

Note that the last entry to the Acropolis is half an hour before closing time.

There are six days a year when the Acropolis closes, so make sure you don’t plan your visit on one of the following days:

• New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
• Easter Sunday (see Note below)
• Christmas Day (Dec 25)
• Boxing Day (Dec 26)

Note: Easter in Greece IS NOT the same date as Easter in other countries. Check the date for Easter Sunday in Greece – I have been caught out by this!

The day of your Acropolis visit

Once you’ve bought your ticket and planned your trip to Athens, it’s time to visit the Acropolis! Here’s what to expect on the day, as well as some helpful hints.

What to bring and wear for your Acropolis visit

You’ll want to spend a few hours exploring the archaeological remains atop and around the Acropolis, so you want to make sure you’re comfortable. Here are a few musts for what to bring and wear while visiting the Acropolis:

• A camera. The Parthenon is difficult to photograph without a wide-angle lens. Many of the best shots of the Acropolis include the surrounding vistas of Athens itself. Again, these shots are better with a wide-angle lens.
• Passport/ID card if you intend to get the reduced entry ( even if you have already bought your ticket online ).
• Sturdy shoes, as some of the ground is quite uneven, there are flights of rough-hewn steps and you don’t want to fall. This is especially so in the magnificent Odeon of Herodes Atticus.
• The Acropolis is a hill and there are a few steep sections walking up from the various Metro stations.
• Sunscreen, especially during the warmer months. Even if it doesn’t seem particularly hot or sunny, you can still get very burnt out in the sun for a few hours.
• A water bottle, as all that exploring is sure to see you work up a thirst! There are water fountains at the Acropolis, so you can fill it back up again for free. NOTE: Pick-pockets and bag snatchers abound in the streets below the Acropolis. Wear your bag on the front of your body and keep your hand on it until you have entered the Acropolis.

The best season and time to visit the Acropolis

Like many of the world’s most famous landmarks, the Acropolis is prone to large crowds and over-tourism in the peak season (June to August) and even shutdowns mandated during the middle of the day in heatwave conditions.

To avoid the huge crowds, it’s highly advisable to visit the Acropolis as early as you can.

If you arrive around 15 minutes before opening time (i.e. about 7:45 am), then you will stand the best chance of enjoying a peaceful time at the Acropolis.

Trust me, no sleep is worth missing the chance to experience the Acropolis at its calmest and most beautiful!

If you aren’t able to visit the Acropolis early in the morning, then crowds do start to die down again around 2 p.m. So, you could visit in the late afternoon instead.

I have visited just before closing time. Depending on the time of year, you can lose the light quickly. Great for atmosphere, lousy for photography!

In general, the peak time to avoid is between around 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. when the crowds are at their largest. Off-peak, don’t go just before closing time as there is not enough light.

How to get to the Acropolis

Many Athens hotels and guesthouses are within walking distance of the Acropolis – it’s hard to miss it hovering above the city! Staying in one of the Athens hotels with views of the Acropolis makes evening drinks a spectacular activity!

However, if you are a bit further away, your best bet is to get the metro to the Acropolis.

As befits an ancient citadel, the Acropolis has its own metro stop, Acropoli , which is very handy for the Acropolis entrance.

However, both Thissio and Monastiraki are also close to the entrance, so there are a few options.

Even a quick return trip from the airport is possible as the metro is at the airport and takes 40-50 minutes to get to the Acropolis.

The Blue Line (Line No. 3) is a direct line from the airport to Syntagma Square and Monastiraki, both of which are only a short walk to the Acropolis.

You will need to factor in at least 30 minutes on either side to get to the Acropolis from the Metro station and into the Acropolis with a skip-the-line ticket.

Thankfully the airport is modern and well organized and the Metro station is extremely close by and well signposted.

If you have a long transit through Athens – for example, of 5 hours or more, I can’t think of a better use of your time than visiting one of the most recognizable ancient sites in the world!

Since April 2023, it has also been possible to again use the UBER app in Athens.

The 3 Acropolis Guided Tours

1. acropolis and parthenon guided walking tour.

The most popular guided walking tour of the Acropolis is the Acropolis and Parthenon Guided Walking Tour.

Great tour for first time at the Acropolis! Our guide Selena was phenomenal. She was knowledgeable, made the tour very engaging, and she was funny as well. It was overall such a fun experience! I would do another tour with her any day. The tour was well paced, with plenty of time for photos, and free time at the end. Highly recommend! The company was also very understanding of me being a bit late for my original time slot. They just immediately added me to the next tour time, no problem! Everyone I spoke to was incredibly nice. I had a very good experience. Emily, United States

It’s a 2-hour tour and you can choose English, French or German and morning or afternoon.

As you can see from the review above, it’s a well-paced tour that gives you time to rest, take photos, and free time at the end.

It’s also well-organized and the communication for guests gets high marks from customers.

2. Acropolis, Parthenon & Acropolis Museum Guided Tour

If you are very short on time, and can’t spend two days seeing the Acropolis on Day 1 and the Acropolis Museum on Day 2, this Acropolis, Parthenon & Acropolis Museum Guided Tour is perfect.

Our guide Simon was the star of the show (tour) – interactive, funny, and most importantly approachable. We have tons of insights, knowledge-sharing, and detailed explanations of the finer points regarding both the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum. Simply put, one of the best guided tours we had the fortune of taking part in. Dattatreya, India

It’s a 4-hour tour conducted in English, Make sure you select the ‘skip the line’ option for both the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum. Entry is through a separate Acropolis entrance.

3. Athens: Acropolis and Mythology Highlights Small Group Tour

I know and love this tour creator, Denae, and Helen, the owner of Alternative Athens. In fact, you can listen to a podcast episode where I interview Denae about the mythology of the Acropolis here!

Denae is a qualified storyteller and Greek guide and she and all the guides here are just such high-quality. As you can see, I can’t vouch for this Acropolis Mythology tour and the team at Alternative Athens highly enough!

The experience of visiting the Acropolis of Athens with storyteller Kimon is simply captivating. His way of telling the mythological stories that surround this iconic place brings each stone and column to life. Kimon masters the art of blending history and legend, transporting visitors to a time when the gods ruled the city. His passion for the subject is contagious and makes the visit to the Acropolis even more memorable. Recommended to all lovers of Greek history and mythology! Renaud, Greece

It’s a 4-hour tour beginning at the Arch of Hadrian, going to the Acropolis, then ending at the Temple of Hephaestus in the Ancient Agora of Athens, so you get to see some of the ancient sites in Athens including the Acropolis.

Frequently asked questions about visiting the Parthenon and Acropolis

Still, have some questions about your visit to the Acropolis in Greece? Here are the most common queries answered.

How long do you need at the Acropolis?

How long you should spend at the Acropolis depends on your personal preference.

A lightning-quick visit to the Acropolis takes in the region of an hour and a half, while many other visitors prefer to stay for three or four hours.

History enthusiasts may even like to stay a bit longer! Overall, I recommend keeping at least an entire morning or afternoon free for your visit. Then you won’t feel rushed and can take it at your own pace.

What are the most important things to see?

ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS The first thing you will see at the Acropolis is the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. This impressive Roman theater was built in 161 AD. The steps can be slippery after rain.

PROPYLAEA AND TEMPLE OF ATHENA NIKE The Beulé Gate lies between the Odeon and the main entrance to the site, the Propylaea. As you climb the steps, look to your right and you will see the small Temple of Athena Nike.

PARTHENON Once through the massive Propylaea, you will see the Erechtheion to your left on the northern side of the Acropolis, and the unmistakable Parthenon to your right.

ERECHTHEION At the Erechtheion you will find the Caryatids, on the “porch of the Maidens.” These six draped figures are the supporting columns of the roof.

The Erechtheion is dedicated to both Athena and Poseidon. You will find here the Olive Tree which ancient Greek mythology tells us sprang up after the goddess Athena defeated Poseidon.

Originally the Erechtheion held a wooden effigy of Athena Polias. The battle between the two is marked on the Erechtheion.

The hole in the roof of the Temple is where Poseidon’s great trident flew threw the earth and the “scratches” on the floor of the Temple were made by his Trident hitting the ground.

On the side of the Erechtheion furthest from the Propylaea, you will see a saltwater well caused by Poseidon’s trident. If you love history and the mythology of ancient Greece, make sure you see the Erechtheion as well as the Parthenon!

THEATRE OF DIONYSUS On the southern slope of the Acropolis (or Sacred Rock), you will find the sixth-century BCE Theatre of Dionysis , part of the Sanctuary of the cult of Dionysus.

Can you climb the Acropolis?

The Acropolis is located on a hill, so to see it, you will be doing some climbing! It takes about twenty minutes to climb up the stairs from either side.

It’s relatively easy, however, you might want to take a few breaks along the way. For those with mobility considerations, there is an elevator.

Once you are at the Acropolis, actually touching or stepping on the ruins is off-limits! You’ll attract the ire of the guards very quickly if you try, so keep a respectful distance.

Should you visit the Acropolis Museum before or after visiting the Acropolis?

Most people who visit the Acropolis also like to visit the Acropolis Museum to learn more about the history of the site.

This leads to the question of whether you should visit the Acropolis, or the Acropolis Museum, first.

Opinions differ on this question. If you visit the Museum first, you may have a better context when you visit the Acropolis.

On the other hand, the Museum can be more exciting after you’ve seen the real thing!

One consideration is timing. Generally, the Museum is quieter than the Acropolis itself, so if you only have one day, I recommend visiting the Acropolis first so you can beat the crowds.

I find it easier to imagine the objects in their original places once I have seen the place from where they were removed.

Plan your visit and check out the Acropolis Museum hours here.

Should you take an Acropolis-guided tour?

Neither the online ticket nor the skip-the-line ticket includes a guide.

You can, however, download an audio guide ( Rick Steves’ guide is free and very well-regarded) to add some extra context to your Acropolis visit).

Another option is to take a guided tour, either privately or as part of a group. If you love history, then this can add a huge amount to your visit.

Otherwise what you see are a bunch of disjointed, empty, and partially destroyed buildings (they’re amazing in their own right and just to see them is spectacular) but…

but to actually have a clue about why they’re there and their relationship with each other – that’s what you get on a tour of an ancient site.

You’ll have the chance to ask questions and hear insider stories – plus, it entitles you to skip the line entry!

🧳 Ministry of Culture and Sports Acropolis Visitor Information:

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Skip-the-Line Acropolis Tour with Parthenon and Museum

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More currencies, combo: acropolis parthenon + acropolis museum tickets.

Grab this combo ticket that includes entry to two of Athens’ landmarks - Acropolis Museum and Acropolis site and the temple of Parthenon. Save money as you see two impressive collections of the major archeological discoveries in Greece.

With this combo ticket to Acropolis Museum & Acropolis site & Parthenon, see the best of Athens’ archeology while you save money!

Acropolis Museum sits in an exciting neighborhood from ancient Greece. Walk past cultural exhibits, classical masterpieces, and explore a vast excavation site.

Tour the most famous galleries, including the Archaic Gallery and the Parthenon Gallery.

Wander across the once-sacred halls of Athena Nike and the Erechtheion.

The large amphitheater, The Odeon of Herodes Atticus. will leave you in awe.

Acropolis Museum

Entry to the Acropolis Museum

Entry to the underground excavation site

English audio guide

Athens Acropolis & Parthenon

Access to Acropolis site & Parthenon

Audio guide for Athens city (optional)

• Guided tour

Cancellation policy

These tickets can't be cancelled or rescheduled.

Your experience

Wander through the diverse exhibits at the Acropolis Museum. Get lost in the Gallery of the Acropolis Slopes, the Archaic Gallery, and lastly the Parthenon Gallery on the 3rd floor.

See the evolution of everyday objects through the centuries, and be enchanted by some of the oldest findings dating back to the 7th century B.C. Find gorgeous artifacts like the coffered ceiling of the Propylaea and sculptures from the Temple of Athena Nike. At the last gallery, watch a video presentation of the Parthenon and how it was designed and built. You will come face-to-face with philosophers and historical figures in a range of amazing portraits and sculptures.

Do not miss the fascinating excavation site that lies below the museum. Believed to be an active neighborhood from around 3000 BC to 1100 AD, the space consists of sea streets, houses, and shops.

At the Athenian temple complex, stop by the ruins of legendary structures like the Propylaea and the entrance to the ancient temple of Parthenon. Parthenon was used to shelter the monumental statue of Athena which was made by Pheidias out of gold and ivory.

The architectural style and beauty of Odeon of Herodes Atticus will leave you in awe. This amphitheater was built in AD 161 by Roman Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife Regilla. It is so grand that it is still used to host blockbuster pop concerts and other events. Wander across the once-sacred halls of Athena Nike and the Erechtheion and marvel at skills of Kallicrates who is said to have designed the temple.

Operating hours

Know before you go, important information.

Pets and large baggage is strictly not allowed inside the museum.

All packages and backpacks must be deposited in the cloakroom on the ground floor of the museum.

The attraction is wheelchair accessible with appropriate routes and elevator facilities.

National Archaeological Museum

Please bring along your passport or a government ID.

This experience is suitable for wheelchair and pram/stroller users.

Photography is allowed without flash or tripods.

Operating Hours

1 Nov to 31 Mar

Mon to Sun: 9am to 5pm (last admission at 4:30pm)

1 Apr to 31 Oct

Mon: 8am to 4pm (last admission at 3:30pm)

Tue to Sun: 8am to 8pm (last admission at 7:30pm)

• 1 Sep to15 Sep

Daily: 8am to 7:30pm (last admission at 7pm)

• 16 Sep to 30 Sep

Daily: 8am to 7 pm (last entrance at 6:30pm)

• 1Oct to 15 Oct

Daily: 8am to 6:30pm (last entrance at 6pm)

16 Oct - 30 Oct

Daily: 8am to 6pm (last entrance at 5:30pm)

Closed on 1 Jan, 25 Mar, 1 May, Easter Sunday, and 25 & 26 Dec.

Your voucher will be emailed to you instantly.

Please display the same at each ticket redemption point along with a valid photo ID.

Ticket Redemption Points

** Acropolis Museum™**

You can redeem the tickets directly at Acropolis Museum

Address: Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, Athina 117 42, Greece.

Get Directions to the Redemption Point

Redeem your tickets directly at National Archaeological Museum

Address: 28is Oktovriou 44, Athina 106 82, Greece.

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VISITING THE ACROPOLIS AND THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM – UPDATED FOR 2024

No visit to Athens is complete without visiting The Acropolis, the ancient citadel perched defiantly above the city that has fascinating people for thousands of years. There are new processes and protocols in 2024 and some of it is quite confusing, so if you’re overwhelmed by the information to plan your visit to the Acropolis this guide will make it easy for you. We’ve covered everything from the meaning and history of The Acropolis, how to avoid the crowds and even what to wear!

Further reading: Top Things to do in Athens  

PLANNING A TRIP TO GREECE?

Whether you’ve been before or it’s your first time it can be hard to process all the information out there. Be sure to check out our complete Planning Guide as well as our FREE 13-page downloadable itinerary.

If you are feeling really overwhelmed you might like a Trip Consultation perhaps!?

And come join our private Facebook Group where you can ask questions and get advice from real travellers!

Note: This article may contain affiliate links. 

What is the Acropolis?

The Greek words for “highest point” and “city” are Akron and Polis so the Acropolis is, or was, a city high above modern-day Athens. It sits on a huge flat rock 150m above sea level, in the middle of the city and is the primary monument of Athens, and one of the most recognisable in the world.

The ancient citadel comprised many structures including several temples such as the famous Parthenon, two sanctuaries, several theaters, and innumerable statues, altars and meeting places.

At various times it has been damaged, rebuilt, added to and occupied by foreign invaders including the Romans who built the Herodes Odean Theater and the Ottomans who constructed a mosque. At one point it was even the headquarters of the Ottoman army and its harem.

Today it is regarded as one of the most fascinating and beautiful structures on the planet and is a must-do for all visitors to Athens.

Further reading : Greek Mythology places to visit    

Note: New protocols and ticketing for the Acropolis started on April1, 2024.

Like visiting many famous attractions, it is now important to understand the new rules and plan ahead, especially for summer.

What changed?

• Visitors numbers are now capped at 20,000 per day ( don’t worry, most of the year there are a lot less visitors than that)
• Time slots have been introduced
• Prices increased although some new discounts were also introduced
• Private after-hours tours were introduced

When is the best time to visit the Acropolis?

The Acropolis is incredible to visit at any time of year, although spring and autumn  have the best weather conditions. 

Summer is great due to lack of rain but it can get very hot, not just due to the ambient temperature but also because of the reflection off all the pale surfaces, something you will find across Athens and many of the islands too.

In July 2023 there were days when visitor numbers exceeded 23,000, so some new protocols are now in place to try and eleviate crowds. 

I recommend people visit the Acropolis either very early – around 15 minutes before opening time, so 7:45 am, or just before closing time around 6-7pm ( or 3-4 in winter). This way you will avoid both the sun and the crowds which are especially big when the cruise ship tours start arriving late in the morning.

( tip: the late afternoon is also excellent for photos especially at dusk)  

How to get to the Acropolis

The Acropolis is the major landmark of Athens and it is impossible to miss commanding center stage in the middle of the city and shining down on the suburbs surrounding it.

If you are staying in the center of Athens it is likely you will be able to walk to The Acropolis or it will be a short taxi ride. There are public buses too and the Hop On Hop Off Bus stops near the south gate.

The Acropolis has its own metro stop, Acropoli, which is very handy for the main Acropolis entrance to the west. However, both Thissio and Monastiraki stations are also close to the side Acropolis entrance as well, in the southeast. The main entrance, unsurprisingly, is the busiest and is also where big tour groups enter. We use the other one! 

How to get tickets to the Acropolis

Queues at the ticket offices, especially in Summer, can be significant, so it pays to be organised. With the new time slots, it is possible you will be able to get a ticket for your preferred time at the gate if it is winter, but for the rest of the year, we strongly recommend you pre-book.

It is possible to buy the tickets directly from the official ticketing website – which is not Government owned contrary to popular belief but a private company, or through a trusted platform like Get Your Guide or Viator .

Multi Pass Tickets

Multi-pass Tickets for the Acropolis and six other sites is highly recommended if you intend to see at least 4 ( they are all close together and can easily be done in a single day). If you see 3 or fewer it is the same price to buy individual tickets at each site.

The pass is valid for 5 days and the time starts when you visit your first site. You may choose to start with your booked Acropolis time slot and then do the others, or you can do it in the middle, the end, or anytime in the 5 days.

Our suggested sequence for these sites, in terms of geography and efficiency is The Acropolis, Acropolis Museum, then the Temple of Zeus – walk through the National Gardens to Aristotles School, then head west to the Roman Agora, Hadrians Library, Ancient Agora and Kerameikos at the end.

South Slope Gate (in July)

Acropolis Entrance Fees

• Regular-price ticket:  20€
• 10€ non-EU aged 6-25
• 10€ EU seniors over 65
• Free – EU up to 25
• Free – non-EU up to 5

Acropolis multi-ticket ( includes other sites)*

The other sites are :

• Ancient Agora
• Hadrian’s Library
• Aristotle’s School [Lyceum],
• Olympieion,
• Roman Agora

If you have booked a discounted ticket you will need to show valid ID – a student card or passport for example, to the gate attendant at each site.

Acropolis Opening Hours

The Acropolis is open nearly every day of the year, with only a few exceptions . They are:

January 1st March 25 May 1 (Labor Day) Easter Sunday ( this is the Eastern Orthodoxy dates and are NOT the same as the typical Christian dates) Christmas Day (Dec 25) Boxing Day (Dec 26)

Opening hours vary depending on the time of year. At the time of publication they are;

November 1 to March 31 –  8 am to 5 pm (last entrance at 4.30pm) April 1 to October 31 –  8 am to 8 pm

Note that the last entry to the Acropolis is half an hour before closing time.

Free days for visiting the Acropolis

There are several days per year where it is free for everyone to visit the Acropolis. It can be crowded on these days, however, that’s a big discount! The free days for the Acropolis are:

6 March 18 April 18 May Last weekend of September 28 October Every first Sunday from November 1st to March 31st

The Elevator at The Acropolis

A lot of people wonder if The Acropolis is wheelchair friendly or indeed if anyone with a disability, limited mobility or even just the elderly can visit the Acropolis. 

Thankfully in 2020 a generous donation from The Onassis Foundation meant significant work was done on the elevator at the Acropolis that now means it is fully operational with new, flat pathways around the Acropolis that are suitable for wheelchairs. It can also be used by a parent attending with two or more infants on their own.

The elevator arrives on the Acropolis plateau, to the area north of the Erechtheion. Visitors can follow  the route towards the Propylaea or the route between the Parthenon and the Erechtheion.  At the end of that route there is also a restroom.

It is a good idea to ring ahead and ensure the lift is operating on the day you plan to arrive. C ontact +30 210 3214172.

Note: Entry to the Acropolis for people with disabilities is free.

Points of interest 

Dionysus Sanctuary  and the  Dionysus Theater  which is considered the most significant theater in Europe as it is where the very first theatrical performance was ever held.

The Parthenon is considered by many engineers and architects as the most perfect structure every built. If viewed from the sky the Parthenon forms a perfect equilateral triangle with the  Temple of Aphaea , on the island of  Aegina , and the  Temple of Poseidon, at   Cape Sounion.

The Temple of Athena Nike was built around 420BC and is dedicated to the goddess Athena Nike, for whom Athens is named. It has a prominent position in the south west corner of the property.

The Erectheion a temple on the north side that was dedicated to Athena and Poseidon. It is particularly famous for its Porch of Caryatids ( or Porch of Maidens) , six columns made from statues of female figures. Some of the originals of these can be found in the Acropolis Museum.

The Propylea is the main gate to the Acropolis and was commissioned by Pericles after the Persian Wars. It consists of a colonnade and a number of structures leading up to the entry, but was sadly never completed.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus theater that was built between 160AD – 174AD and is still in use today. During the summer, there are a number of performances and events available – see the event schedule . We have enjoyed a wonderful night under the stars, seeing the Luxembourg Philharmonic Orchestra and Piano Virtuoso Yuja Wang. What an incredible and very special experience it was!

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Welcome to Greece Travel Secrets! I’m Sandy, a tragic Grecophile married to a Greek, hoping to help you have the best possible trip to Greece. We want you to experience the famous Greek ‘Filotimo’ before you even get there.

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Sakhalin: Your Essential Guide to Russia’s Enigmatic Eastern Island

• January 14, 2024

A Journey Through Giant Burdocks, Wild Bears, and the Echoes of Ancient Japanese Temples

From the most dreaded place of exile in the Russian Empire to a Japanese industrial base and one of the most attractive and inaccessible places for domestic tourism in Russia.

Table of Contents

An island that was Russian, then Japanese, and then Russian again

From the 17th to the mid-19th century, it was believed that Sakhalin was a peninsula. This misconception firmly established itself on the maps of the time, as navigators failed to circumnavigate the island. The proximity of Sakhalin’s southern tip to the mainland created a false impression of being impassable for ships. An additional complexity arose from the fact that the route taken by ships from the Russian Empire involved passing through a narrow strait, which Nevelskoy managed to navigate only in 1849.

For a long time, people did not believe Nevelskoy, but he insisted that he had discovered a route through the strait, for which he became something of a hero in Primorye. Monuments and plaques dedicated to him can be found in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, Vladivostok, and Khabarovsk. The H4H creative association created a graphic novel based on this story, which won a cultural initiatives contest and became part of the interior of the Khabarovsk Airport. By the way, the Sakhalin region is the only Russian entity entirely located on islands.

The remote and isolated location of the island during the Russian Empire was used as a natural barrier, and it became the site of penal colonies for hard labor prisoners. Its geographical position led to Sakhalin’s hard labor being regarded as particularly cruel.

During the period of the island’s development, Russian ships followed the Amur River and reached the island from the north, where the oldest port, Alexandrovsk, was founded. The Japanese attempted to develop the island from the south, entering through the Kuril Islands (part of the Sakhalin region) and Aniva Bay. For a long time, the Kurils were inhabited by the Ainu, representatives of a small indigenous people. The very word “Kurils” comes from the Ainu: “kuru” means “man.”

In the 17th century, Japan conducted its first expeditions towards the islands and began their development. Russia reached them later. The first mentions of the islands in Russian language date back to the late 17th century. For a long time, Russian, Dutch, Japanese, and Anglo-French navigators studied the islands, landed on them, and disputed their territorial ownership. However, only Russia and Japan managed to establish a foothold. To end the territorial disputes, the governments of the two countries signed an agreement under which the Kuril Islands went to Japan, and Sakhalin to Russia, which continued to develop the island mainly from the north. After the Russo-Japanese War of 1904-1905, which ended in Russia’s defeat, the southern part of Sakhalin became part of Japan as the Karafuto Prefecture.

Until the second half of the 20th century, the island was owned by Japan and was quite successful in developing its resources. A huge number of mines were opened, several cities and lighthouses were built. In particular, the current regional center, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, was the former Japanese city of Toyohara. The famous Aniva lighthouse, now considered a symbol of Sakhalin, was built by Japanese engineers. After Japan’s defeat in World War II, the island passed to the Soviet Union. Contrary to history, the main life of the island moved from the north to the south. Alexandrovsk, which was convenient to reach by water, lost to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk with its infrastructure built by the Japanese, connections to neighboring cities, and airport. Interestingly, before leaving, the Japanese buried and hid the mining sites, and locals say that not all the old mines have been found yet, and they are sometimes stumbled upon during walks.

Because the island belonged to three different countries in just over a hundred years, it did not have time to develop any significant urban infrastructure. The cities lack outstanding architectural monuments and unique museums. However, some unusual Japanese architecture has remained. Meanwhile, Sakhalin compactly houses incredible natural attractions. Here, one can climb through forests and bamboo thickets to breathtakingly beautiful mountains as if outlined in graphite, and through a mountain pass reach the sea, into which clear mountain rivers flow with fish splashing in them.

The Ainu and Nivkh: Inhabitants of Sakhalin

For a long time, the island was mainly inhabited by the Ainu and Nivkh peoples. These ethnic groups are very different, making their coexistence as unusual as the neighboring of birch and bamboo on the slopes of Sakhalin’s mountains. Both are isolate peoples . However, the Ainu belong to the Australoid race, while the Nivkh are Mongoloids (the main population of Asian territories). It’s fascinating how representatives of different races have coexisted for ages on a small piece of land at the edge of the world.

There is no single version regarding the origin of the Ainu, leading to a multitude of theories — both scientific and conspiratorial. One theory suggests that the Ainu are the ancestors of the indigenous population of Australia, remaining in the north after continental migration. Some researchers write that the Ainu are the forebears of the Japanese. This theory is supported by the fact that before Japanese expansion, the Ainu mainly inhabited the Japanese island of Hokkaido. However, the Ainu suffered greatly from Japanese imperialism, and their culture and language were almost completely destroyed in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Now, there are just over two thousand Ainu living on Sakhalin.

The Nivkh are among the indigenous small-numbered peoples of the north. They suffered less from Japanese rule. However, during the Soviet era, they experienced a difficult phase of literacy development, destruction of tribal communities, and relocation to cities. About 2,200 Nivkh live in the Sakhalin region and another approximately two thousand in Khabarovsk.

During the Karafuto period, Japan brought captured Koreans to Sakhalin for hard labor. By the mid-20th century, the Korean population of the island was about 45,000 people. For comparison, the current population of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is 180,000. This large number of people, deprived of their homeland, was forced to adapt to life first under Japanese and then Soviet rule. In the USSR, Koreans were issued passports, and there were national kindergartens and schools. However, Sakhalin Koreans did not feel part of the larger community of Soviet Koreans (Koryo-saram) and struggled to integrate. Moreover, they were considered members of an ‘unreliable nation’ because they had lived in the Japanese Empire.

In the late 1990s, three countries – Russia, South Korea, and Japan – began a repatriation campaign for the first generation of Sakhalin Koreans (born before August 15, 1945) to their historical homeland. Now, about 3,500 repatriates from Russia live in South Korea. Under the program, the Korean government provides medical insurance and a monthly allowance to the repatriates. The Japanese government, in turn, buys housing (apartments up to 40 m²) and covers transportation costs. Additionally, every two years, Sakhalin Koreans who have moved to their homeland have the right to visit Sakhalin for free, funded by the Japanese government. Most Sakhalin Koreans settled in the city of Ansan , where 500 apartments were specially built for them.

Korean influence is weakly traced on Sakhalin: many Sakhalin Koreans no longer know the language and do not associate themselves with Korea. However, there are several authentic restaurants (for example, “Koba” ) on the island where you can try traditional dishes.

Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk — the capital and base for exploring the island

The city is predominantly characterized by typical Soviet architecture, with almost no remaining Japanese buildings. This is because during the Soviet period, the city was radically rebuilt after being liberated from ‘imperialist Japanese rule.’ Many buildings were demolished, and from the few that remained, some were turned into museums. Perhaps the main thing that has been preserved from the Japanese period is the layout. The city was founded from scratch near the Russian village of Vladimirovka, and Chicago was chosen as the model for its layout. Toyohara was divided into four parts by two main streets, O-dori (now Lenin) and Maoka-dori (Sakhalinskaya).

Japan established itself thoroughly on the island. In Toyohara, trade routes converged, new bays were developed, and roads were built. The city’s population grew steadily. Initially due to the military garrison, and later due to a paper mill, a sugar and distillery plant. Now, the buildings of the former Japanese factories are abandoned. Many of them can only be accessed with rare tours, while others are completely closed. However, their presence is still recalled by street names, such as Paper Street.

Another building in the Neo-Japanese style is the Karafuto Governorate Museum built in the 1930s (29 Communist Avenue). It now houses the Sakhalin Regional Museum . And in the former bank of colonial development, there is the Art Museum (137 Lenin Street).

Several other iconic buildings constructed by the Japanese have been preserved: the central hospital of Toyohara (41 Chekhov Street), the conference hall of the Karafuto Governorate (30 Dzerzhinsky Street), and the Toyohara City Hall (41 Communist Avenue). The Sakhalin Railway Museum in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk is distinct from many similar museums in Russia due to its exhibits. This is because the island long maintained the Japanese standard of railway gauge, which differs from the Russian standard. Accordingly, the rolling stock was entirely different.

If in Vladivostok everything is named after the Far Eastern explorer and writer Vladimir Arsenyev, then in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, mentions of Chekhov are everywhere. At the end of the 19th century, Sakhalin was both the most dreaded place for exile to hard labor and one of the most tempting corners of Russia, which was not so easy to access. Chekhov received an editorial assignment and embarked on a ship along with prisoners, military personnel, and sailors to the most remote point of the empire. In his notes, which Chekhov compiled under the title ‘The Island of Sakhalin,’ the writer talked about many things: the geography and climate of the island, the life of the convicts, and ordinary residents. This book caused a great resonance at the time, and even now it was very interesting to read it while traveling to Sakhalin: some things have changed drastically, while others have remained the same. Now in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, there is even a museum dedicated to this one book, which turned out to be so significant for the island.

GoSakhalin is the website of the Sakhalin Tourist and Information Center. And in their official Telegram channel , you can find announcements of affordable excursions shortly before they start.

In any case, for travelers, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk remains primarily a hub and a place of rest. Here they return for the night and dinner, and it seems that real adventures begin outside the doorstep.

Surrounding Area

10–20 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

The main reason people visit Sakhalin is for its unique nature. Mountains, forests, rivers, lakes, and the sea, all on a small piece of land. In one day, you can travel from the Sea of Okhotsk to the Sea of Japan, cross several climate zones, see bamboo groves, birches, and spruces in one place, spot a running fox and a swimming orca. The island’s landscapes can boldly compete in Instagram appeal with Iceland or Norway.

Within Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk alone, there are about 30 kilometers of marked ecotrails, with brief descriptions and routes available on the official tourism portal. I also found an ecotrail in Nevelsk, which is not mentioned on the official website.

The ecotrails in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk start from the ‘Mountain Air’ ski center on the sopka (a term for mountains in the Far East) Bolshevik. There are five in total: ‘Children’s’ (2.7 kilometers), ‘Eight’ (8 kilometers), ‘Northern Ring’ (9 kilometers), ‘Russian’ (3.2 kilometers), and ‘Yelanka’ (5 kilometers). You can take a cable car to the start of the trails and then slowly descend through the forest and park to the city. However, the lift does not operate in rainy and windy weather.

Hiking the ‘Eight’ trail took me no more than three hours, including stops to catch my breath and take photos. Every kilometer and a half along the route, there are benches. From the top of the mountain, there is a view of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, and it seems you can see a piece of the Sea of Okhotsk.

Chekhov Peak

The route to Chekhov Peak is a high-mountain trekking path that requires a certain level of physical fitness. Chekhov Peak has an elevation of 1045 meters, with an absolute altitude gain of 752 meters. The trail is narrow and slippery in places, hardly suitable for children or people with limited mobility.

Chekhov Peak is part of the Susunai Range, which supports Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk from the southeast. You can exit from Gagarin city park to the foothills in about half an hour. The ascent to the peak itself cannot be missed: a marked trail and informational signs lead to it. On particularly steep ascents, ropes are hung for safety, but it is possible to walk up the slope without them.

In late spring, the forest trail has many streams, as well as May primroses and butterflies. The foothills are scattered with rare, incredibly large, and wonderfully fragrant marsh callas. Halfway to the peak, bamboo thickets are encountered, through which birches break through. This is also a kind of magic because, as a biologist friend explained to me, birch and bamboo are not supposed to coexist in the natural environment, but somehow they manage to do so. Occasionally, spruces are encountered — not tall, but very fluffy. Closer to the top, the vegetation becomes sparser, and the impressive views of the sea, mountains, and lakes open up from the height.

• The entire hike takes five to six hours.
• Even in summer, there is snow on the summit. In the afternoon, it starts to melt, making it more difficult to walk.
• Don’t forget to bring food and water.
• Wear boots with covered ankles, a jacket, and a head covering.
• Inform your family and friends, and someone living in Sakhalin, before setting out on the route. If you’re traveling alone, you could notify, for example, the hotel receptionist or roommates in a hostel.
• Snakes and bears are found around the trail. Watch your feet and try to make as much noise as possible. For example, play music on your phone and sing along occasionally.
• The ascent to Chekhov Peak can be the start of a journey to the village of Lesnoye on the shore of the Sea of Okhotsk. The distance to the village is 27 kilometers. With good preparation and an early start from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, this distance can be covered in one day.

Mud Volcano in Klyuchi

A mud volcano is an eruption on the earth’s surface of clay masses, mineralized waters, and gases. The mechanism of formation of these volcanoes is not fully understood. According to the existing theory, such volcanoes are formed near oil fields.

The mud volcano in Klyuchi consists of a mud field about 200 meters in diameter. There, you can see about 20 points of activity, resembling miniature volcano craters. This mud volcano became active in 1959, 1979, 2001, and 2011 (the last time due to a strong earthquake in Japan). During these eruptions, mud columns reached several tens of meters in height. Bus 189 goes to Klyuchi from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. The distance from the village to the top of the volcano is nine kilometers and takes about two and a half hours to walk.

Ecopark in the Vestochka area: Frog Rock, Aikhor Waterfall, ‘Sunny Glade’ Recreation Park

Not far from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, there is a fairly large ecopark, known primarily for the Frog Rock outcrop. An outcrop is a remnant of harder rock around which softer rock has eroded over time. Outcrops are often known for their unusual shapes and are natural monuments. Frog Rock is part of a series of rocks standing one behind the other. This was once the seabed of an ancient sea, and fossilized shells can be found in its vicinity. From the top of the rock, amazing views of the Aniva Bay, Tunaycha and Changeable Lakes open up. This place was sacred to the Ainu, the indigenous inhabitants of the island.

The trail to the ‘Sunny Glade’ ecopark begins behind the ‘Electron’ culture house. Despite its name, it is not a city park, but a full-fledged forest with laid-out paths. There are houses, glades with tables for rest where you can cook barbecues, and wooden walkways leading to various attractions. These are all paid services.

The path to Frog Rock outcrop goes along the Komissarovka River. In areas of spring flooding, callas bloom and bamboo grows. The outcrop is located on a hill, with a total elevation gain of about 300 meters. The road is quite challenging, usually taking from an hour to an hour and a half. The higher you climb, the more you can see: the sea, the mountain gorge, the road to Vestochka. In the same park is the Aikhor Waterfall, which is also a short climb away, but along a less well-maintained trail. You can plan a whole day to visit Vestochka and even spend the night, without returning to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk.

Vestochka is three high-rise buildings on one side of the road and a cottage settlement on the other. It is part of Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, though located 15 kilometers from the main part of the city. A taxi there costs about 1000 rubles and takes 40 minutes. About a kilometer after turning off the main road, the asphalt ends and a terribly dusty dirt road begins. If you’re lucky, you can catch a bus that runs three times a day.

What else to see on the island

40 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

The oldest city in the south of Sakhalin, founded by Nevelskoy’s expedition. Here you can find a huge number of monuments dedicated to sailors, naval battles, and ships. The most significant monument in the city in recent decades has become the stele dedicated to ‘Koreans interned by the Japanese in Sakhalin, who never returned to their homeland,’ located on Mount Sorrow, created through the efforts of three countries’ governments (Russia, Japan, and Korea).

In Korsakov, some Japanese heritage has been preserved: the former building of the Hokkaido Takushoku Bank, a colonial development bank (Sovetskaya Street, 3), trade warehouses in the port, a document storage facility ‘Bunsyoko’ (Krasnoflotskaya Street, 1), a couple of rusty fire hydrants, and remnants of Shinto temples in the form of pillars with hieroglyphs. One of the local nighttime entertainments is watching the lights of the gas processing plant.

How to get there. Three electric trains a day, the journey takes just over an hour, and the ticket costs 75 rubles (0.71 euros).

Bird and Giant Capes

90 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Two capes, recognized as natural monuments in 1990, along whose coasts are many wind and wave-carved grottoes, caves, arches, and columns of various sizes and whimsical shapes, among which colonies of sea birds reside.

The place is not very close, but it’s very picturesque at any time of the year. In the area of one of the rocks, there is a pool where, during the salmon spawning period, you can observe a fascinating spectacle — a huge gathering of pink salmon.

Many tourists stay on the coast overnight to witness the sunset and sunrise. Near Cape Giant, there is a toilet, parking, and a rest area with benches.

How to get there. The journey from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk goes through the village of Okhotskoe, where you can buy fresh crabs, and takes about three hours one way. The road is fully passable only by high vehicles like Mitsubishi Pajero, Suzuki Jimny, as the last ten kilometers of the route have deep puddles, potholes, small cliffs, and rivers.

Nevelsk and Steller Sea Lions

Nevelsk is nestled between mountains and sea. The rocky mountains and the coast, which consists of small stone needles and shells, in every way explain why Chekhov so often mentioned in ‘The Island of Sakhalin’ how harsh the land of Sakhalin is.

Steller sea lions are the largest of the eared seals. One of their habitats is the breakwater in Nevelsk. As soon as you arrive in the town, the smell from the Steller sea lions’ haul-out site hits you. ‘They eat there, live, give birth to their young – that’s why it smells,’ the locals explain. Another feature is the noise. Steller sea lions are very loud!

You can view the sea lions from the central square, where binoculars are installed. However, tourists usually hire a boat and approach the haul-out site to get a closer look at the seals. You can see how the Steller sea lions bark, lie in the sun, jump into the sea and, most interestingly, try to jump back. The views from the square through binoculars are not as detailed and impressive. A place on the boat will cost 1000–1500 rubles (9.50 – (14.25 euros). You can also buy a tour from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk for 3500 rubles (33.25 euros). The most animals are present in spring and early summer. In autumn, there may be a couple of dozen individuals left.

From the embankment, you can observe the huge kelp laminaria floating in the sea. Some travelers catch them themselves and eat them. Although dishes made from seaweed are found in cafes and also sold in stores. Signs are installed on the shore indicating where to run in case of a tsunami. The last major earthquake with waves was recorded in 2007. Many houses were destroyed and two people died. The most famous Sakhalin tsunami was the 1952 tragedy , when the aftermath of the earthquake almost completely destroyed Severo-Kurilsk.

How to get there. From the bus station (Karl Marx Street, 51b) in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, buses go to Nevelsk, the ticket costs 300 rubles (2.85 euros), and the journey takes about an hour. Tickets can be purchased at the bus station ticket office or from the driver (cash or transfer). It’s not possible to board the bus somewhere in the city, as the bus does not make stops. It’s better to buy a return ticket immediately upon arrival in Nevelsk at the Nevelsk bus station ticket office (Lenina Street, 1). The bus is popular with locals, and there may simply be no seats left.

Remnants of structures from the Karafuto period include the Maoka-Jinja temple with a Japanese-style garden and an abandoned railway built by the Japanese. It used to connect Kholmsk with Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Tourists usually come to see two photogenic bridges – Devil’s and Witch’s – and a tunnel in the mountain that makes a full circle inside it. The trail passes along the old rails, and there are many vipers, so one needs to watch their step.

How to get there. The bus to Kholmsk takes two hours, the ticket costs 450 rubles (4.28 euros), with 14 trips a day.

Slepikovsky Cape and Lighthouse

120 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

At Slepikovsky Cape, there is the only relic grove of Korean cedar on Sakhalin. Also located here is the functioning Slepikovsky Lighthouse, which is a 27-meter tall round tower, connected by corridors to utility and residential buildings.

The cape and lighthouse are named after the commander of the Russian partisan detachment Bronislav Grotto-Slepikovsky, who operated in Southern Sakhalin during the 1904–1905 war. The route to the lighthouse goes through the villages of Yablochnoe and Sadovniki, where some of the best beaches on Sakhalin are located — with the cleanest water and white sand.

How to get there. The cape is located 29 kilometers north of Kholmsk. From Kholmsk to the turn towards the lighthouse, there is asphalt with dirt sections. From the turn to the lighthouse, there is first a dirt road, then beach sand, which is recommended to be driven on with deflated tires. Visiting time is from spring to autumn, as the road to the cape is not cleared in winter.

110 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

In 1891, when the island had a penal colony, this was the Russian village of Siraroko, named after a nearby Ainu settlement. In 1905, the south of Sakhalin was given to the Japanese, and the village was renamed Higashi Shiraura. Here there were a railway station, a brick factory, and a coal mine. 40 years later, the settlement was renamed Vzmorye.

During the Japanese times, there was the Shinto shrine Higashi Shiraura Inari-Jinja. Only the torii gates remain — P-shaped gates without doors that are placed on the path to a Shinto shrine. These are the only torii on Sakhalin. On the torii, there is an inscription ‘In honor of the 2600th anniversary of the foundation of Great Japan’ — this mythological date was widely celebrated in 1940.

On the way to the torii, you can see the famous giant burdocks and bear’s garlic. Vzmorye is also known as a place where poached crabs are sold along the highway.

How to get there. Two electric trains and one train that start from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk stop in Vzmorye. Unfortunately, all three are in the evening. You can also get there on passing buses that go to the north of the island.

Tikhaya Bay

140 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

On one side, the bay is framed by Mount Smely, and on the other side, the majestic Zhdanko Ridge begins. To the left in the bay itself is an island-kekur, which can be reached during low tide, as well as the epic cliffs of Tikhaya Cape. By the way, behind this cape, there are waterfalls that become icefalls in winter. At the base of the bay is the mouth of the Tikhaya River, where during the season you can see the spawning of pink salmon and chum salmon. Bears are aware of this, so they are often encountered here.

How to get there. Buses going to Poronaysk stop in the village of Tikhoye, near which the bay is located. There are four trips a day.

Aniva Lighthouse

The lighthouse has a complex history: there were attempts to maintain it under Soviet rule, but Aniva was so remote from inhabited areas that it was not profitable. Eventually, the lighthouse was switched to autonomous mode, bringing in a radioactive isotope to sustain its operation, and then it was completely closed. To this day, you can find signs on the walls reading ‘Caution, radioactive’. But now this warning is outdated, as the radioactive isotope was removed when the lighthouse was decommissioned. The lighthouse is very beautiful, offering views of the island and sea, and inside you can explore the remnants of rooms and working areas.

On the return trip, tourists are also taken to Mramornaya Bay, where you can also climb a mountain and view the jagged coast of Sakhalin from above. Orcas and whales are often encountered in these areas, most frequently in summer. I would also recommend taking a combined tour in summer to Aniva Lighthouse, the Blue Lakes, and Busse Lagoon, where you can see the amazingly blue waters and try sea urchins.

A kilometer from Novikov is Cape Tri Kamnya (46.320342 143.373006), which can even be reached by car. Four kilometers from the cape is the small Strelka waterfall , which requires a walk. If you stay in the village overnight, you can take a hike to the Blue (turquoise) Lakes (46.359603, 143.471909). On the way, there’s an abandoned Japanese power station. You can extend your route by another 15 kilometers and reach the opposite shore of the peninsula – to Cape Evstafiya. The road from Novikov to Cape Evstafyeva through the Blue Lakes can be driven in a jeep, if there hasn’t been prolonged rain before. But it’s better to ask in advance those who have recently been there, and get the phone number of a local tractor driver in Novikov, so that if something happens, he can pull you out.

How to get there. Getting there independently is almost impossible. The lighthouse is located on a rocky outcrop in the sea, and the nearest land is a high cliff. However, some people do reach Novikovo (the nearest village) by bus or car, and then walk 44 kilometers on foot to Aniva (the name of both the lighthouse and the bay). It takes about one and a half hours to drive from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to Novikovo. And then another two hours of rough dirt road to the boat dock. A tour from the company ‘Friends-Hikers’ costs 6000 rubles (57.00 euros) in May (in summer – 7000 rubles (66.50 euros)).

Klokovsky Waterfall

190 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

Klokovsky Waterfall is one of the highest waterfalls on Sakhalin Island. Its height is variously reported to be 48–49 meters, with a width of up to nine meters. The waterfall is accessible year-round, but is most full in late spring and early summer.

Alexandrovsk-Sakhalinsky

The ‘Tri Brata’ (Three Brothers) rocks are definitely a symbol of Alexandrovsk-Sakhalinsky, and perhaps of the entire island. They are located in the Alexandrovsk Gulf almost opposite Cape Zhonkiyor. From the cape, there is a stunning view of the vast Tatar Strait and the Three Brothers. At low tide, it’s possible to calmly explore all the attractions of the gulf, collect seaweed and shells, see hermit crabs scuttling along the seabed with their shells on their backs, or watch the leaves of laminaria sway. At the strongest low tide, you can even walk to the Three Brothers through the water.

In the 19th century, convicts carved a 90-meter tunnel through Cape Zhonkiyor to service the lighthouse. To reach the tunnel by land, you need to come at low tide. Otherwise, you’ll have to climb the rocks. The tunnel is lined with logs, but there is almost always water at the bottom and a strong wind howls through it. If you pass through the tunnel, you will see the ‘Tri Sestry’ (Three Sisters) rocks and an old lighthouse from the end of the 19th century. All these places are described by Chekhov in ‘The Island of Sakhalin’: ‘Most often we went to the lighthouse, which stands high above the valley, on Cape Zhonkiyor. During the day, the lighthouse, if looked at from below, is a modest white house with a mast and lantern, but at night it shines brightly in the darkness, and then it seems that the penal colony looks at the world with its red eye. The road to the house climbs steeply, winding around the mountain, past old larches and firs. The higher you climb, the freer you breathe; the sea spreads before your eyes, thoughts gradually come, having nothing to do with the prison, the penal colony, or the exile settlement, and only then do you realize how dull and difficult life is down below.’

How to get there. From Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, there is one bus trip per day – at 12:10. The ticket costs 2200 rubles (20.90 euros), and the journey takes nine hours.

600 kilometers from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk

The main transit point on the way to the oil refineries. The village might be of interest to those curious to see a harsh northern town living off production: low-rise buildings made of siding and unexpectedly bright murals on the walls of five-story buildings. There is a local history museum in the village (Sovetskaya Street, 3) – it is praised for its excellent exhibition of the Nivkh culture and a monument to Nevelskoy. Also, one of the longest rivers of Sakhalin, the Tym (which translates from Nivkh as ‘spawning river’), flows through the town.

How to get there. A night train goes to Nogliki every day, taking almost 12 hours. The cheapest ticket in a seated carriage costs 1100 rubles (10.45 euros), a compartment – 4100 (38.95 euros). There is even a luxury (SV) carriage for 12600 rubles (119.70 euros).

Where to Stay

Hostels in the Far East are divided into work and tourist types. The former will also accommodate tourists, but the atmosphere there is like a dormitory where their own rules are already established, and you may feel like an uninvited guest. To avoid such a hostel, it’s important to carefully read the reviews, not book the cheapest hostels, not stay on the outskirts or near airports and train stations.

In the Islander hostel , mainly travelers stay, it’s very cozy, with convenient kitchen and showers with toilets. A double room costs 3000 rubles per day, and dorms – from 900 rubles (8.55 euros) per night. If you book directly through the website and for a long term, you can get a good discount.

The ‘Moneron’ hotel is located near the railway and bus stations. It’s a classic budget hotel with small clean rooms. The ‘comfort’ class rooms have a bath, and the hotel provides a complete set with slippers, towels, and a hairdryer. Prices start from 2800 rubles (26.60 euros) per night for a single economy room, while ‘comfort’ costs 4900 rubles (46.55 euros). Breakfast is included in the price.

The ‘Belka’ hotel building is made using Finnish technology in a wooden style from milled timber. The cost of large rooms with wooden walls and huge beds starts from 5800 rubles (55.10 euros). Breakfast is also included in the price. The hotel complex includes a sauna, spa, tavern, and gym.

Near Bussé Bay is the island’s only dome-shaped glamping site. A night for two costs 8000-10,000 rubles (76.00 – 95.00 euros). An extra bed is 2000 (19.00 euros). Each dome has a shower, toilet, and electricity. On cooler days, you can light the stove and sit by the fire with a cup of hot cocoa.

In other towns, apart from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, the choice of hotels is quite modest and usually limited to one or two hotels, which cannot always be booked online. They have to be found on the map and booked by phone.

Transport on the Island

Car. If you’re only traveling between cities, there won’t be any problems – the roads between them are mostly paved, and the dirt roads are of more or less good quality. It gets more complicated with natural attractions. Almost all of them are accessed by dirt roads, which not every car can navigate.

In Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, ‘Yandex.Taxi’ and ‘Maxim’ operate (also in Korsakov and Kholmsk). A trip within the city limits will cost a maximum of 300 rubles (2.85 euros).

Railway. From Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, about 30 electric trains depart daily. Most of them go to nearby areas like Dalnyaya, Khristoforovka, and Novoaleksandrovka stations – 8–23 minutes travel time.

To other cities, there’s only one electric train per day. It takes an hour to Korsakov and the ticket costs 80 rubles (0.76 euro). To Tomari, it’s four hours and 300 rubles (2.85 euros). To Poronaysk, it’s five hours of travel and 500 rubles (4.75 euros) for a ticket. Long-distance electric trains depart in the evening, as these routes are used by residents of the province who return from work in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to their homes.

There is also one train on the island – Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to Nogliki, 12 hours of travel and 1100 rubles (10.45 euros) for a ticket in a sitting carriage.

Buses. It seems you can reach even the most remote settlements by bus. Often there’s only one trip per day, but at least it exists. To Kholmsk, Nevelsk, and Korsakov, the journey takes about an hour and a half, with tickets costing around 300 rubles (2.85 euros); to Poronaysk and Uglegorsk, it’s four to five hours and 1200 rubles (11.40 euros) for a ticket. You can check the current schedule on avtovokzaly.ru . But it’s always better to double-check by phone: +7 (4242) 72-25-53. The address of the bus station is Karl Marx Street, 51b.

Airplane. Sakhalin has a quite extensive network of airports, and you can fly from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to Okha, Zonalnoye, Shakhtyorsk, Poronaysk, Smirnykh, Yuzhno-Kurilsk, and Iturup. Flights are operated by the Far Eastern airlines ‘Aurora’ and ‘Taiga’ . These routes are served by small propeller planes Bombardier and Mi-8 helicopters. Such a flight is an interesting experience in itself. Moreover, some flights are quite inexpensive. For example, to Zonalnoye, Shakhtyorsk, and Poronaysk, tickets cost 2000–3000 rubles (19.00 – 28.50 euros) one way. To Okha and the Kurils – from 6000 rubles (57.00 euros).

Ferry. From Korsakov, ferries run to different settlements in the Kurils every three to four days. The ferry to Kurilsk takes about 22 hours, to Yuzhno-Kurilsk – 22–30 hours, and to Malokurilskoye – about 40 hours. Interestingly, a ticket to any of these settlements costs from 2800 rubles (26.60 euros), available on the website of the ferry company.

How to get there

By plain. To travel to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk from Europe, passengers typically fly through major transit hubs. Common routes involve flying from a European city to one of the major Russian airports offering direct flights to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, such as Moscow’s Sheremetyevo or Domodedovo airports. In 2023 it is only possible to fly to Moscow from major transit hubs such as Istanbul or Erevan. From there, travelers can catch one of the direct flights to the island. Some routes might also include stops or transfers in other large cities in Russia or Asia, depending on the airline and the flight itinerary, for instance, Novosibirsk, Krasnoyarsk, Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude, Chita, Blagoveshchensk, Vladivostok, Khabarovsk, Komsomolsk-on-Amur, Sovetskaya Gavan, and Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. There is even one international flight from Harbin, China.

In good weather, on approach to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, you can see the Tatar Strait, the Western Ridge, and the city itself. The airport is located within the city limits, and from there, you can easily reach any point by public transport (buses 63 and 3) or taxi.

Ferry. Vanino (Khabarovsk Krai) to Kholmsk (Sakhalin) . Passenger tickets for the ferry are sold at the Vanino railway station or at the ticket office in Kholmsk (Lenin Square, 5). They can also be reserved by phone: +7 (42137) 74088 (Vanino), +7 (42433) 50880 (Kholmsk). The ferries run daily, with a journey time of 18–20 hours. A seat costs 650 rubles (6.18 euros), while the cheapest cabin spot is 1400 rubles (13.30 euros). There is a dining room on board.

I was on the island in early May, and this has its pros and cons. On one hand, it’s already not very cold in Sakhalin at this time, and you can walk around in a light jacket or sweatshirt, and sometimes even just in a T-shirt. At the end of spring, you can catch the largest number of Steller sea lions in Nevelsk (closer to summer they migrate towards Avacha Bay). Also at this time, you can see the forest awakening: streams penetrate it from all sides, in their floodplains swamp callas bloom, meadows fill with primroses, and the hills are covered with bright green bamboo shoots. On the other hand, there is still snow in the mountains, in which you can get stuck while climbing, and the sea, which is not very warm in these areas, is completely unsuitable for swimming.

In summer, Sakhalin is not very hot, the coast blooms with wild roses, the sea warms up a bit, and there is less chance of bad weather when visiting remote attractions. Also, it’s precisely at this time you can see orcas (June – July) and whales (July – August), as well as the salmon spawning.

In winter, snowboarders and skiers come to Sakhalin. The mountains on the island are not high, so they are suitable even for beginners.

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