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36   Best Single-Speed Bikes

• Based on reviews from 23 experts and 3,717 users
• Learn how the BikeRide Score works and see our guide to single-speed bikes
• Updated June 2024

The BikeRide Guide to Choosing the Best Single-Speed Bike

What is a Single-Speed?

Single-speeds come in many flavors, extras and accessories, simple or ‘basic’ , measuring up, choosing a single-speed, types of single-speed, direct sales vs. local bike shop, one and done, further reading and useful links.

A single-speed is any bicycle with a single gear ratio. They are one of the most uncomplicated types of bicycle available.

There are no cassettes, additional chainrings, gear cables, derailleurs or gear levers on a single-speed. This means that:

• They are easier and cheaper to maintain and upgrade than a geared bike.
• A single-speed transfers pedal-power directly and efficiently.
• A simple and resilient drivetrain is suited to all-weather riding.
• A mid-priced single-speed is usually lighter than a mid-priced, geared bike.

Nevertheless, riding single-speed does present some challenges. You can’t change to lower gears to make hill-climbs easier – and there are no higher gears to increase speeds on flat grounds and descents. There are four main reasons to buy a single-speed:

• Simplicity.
• Terrain – you live in a less hilly area and one gear is all you need.
• To increase your level of fitness and cycling strength.
• Because you already possess a high level of cycling fitness.

What are the Characteristics of a Single-Speed?

All single-speeds have one gear. This is the only characteristic that they all share. There are single-speed commuters , single-speed road bikes , single-speed mountain bikes , single-speed cyclocross bikes , single-speed town bikes, single-speed cruisers and adult-sized BMX bikes.

That said, most of the new single-speed bikes out there are urban bikes . They are usually intended for short commutes, errands or trips. These bikes are usually built on frames that share road-bike geometry, while often being built a little sturdier. That’s because a road bike is a speed-machine. Whereas an urban single-speed needs to struggle with unkempt urban roads, potholes and curbs.

They usually have flat handlebars and a riding position that varies between semi-upright and upright . This helps with maintaining visibility when negotiating traffic.

Even though flat-bar urban bikes dominate the single-speed world, there are no standards. Many riders prefer to use curved drop-bars, as seen on road bikes. Some cyclists like aggressive track-bike geometry. Some riders are happy to ride their single-speed for 60 or even 100 miles, at a stretch.

Single-speed bikes are some of the most customized bikes on the road or track. It’s easy and fun to modify and personalize them.

It would be remiss to overlook the dedicated following that single-speed mountain biking has enjoyed. This type of riding can be highly demanding, especially in mountainous areas.

Since 2007, single-speed cyclocross has increased in popularity with the advent of the Single-Speed Cyclocross World Championships .

Steel frames are widely used on new single-speeds. But not all steels are created equal. On bicycles, steel comes in two main flavors:

• Chromoly (sometimes stylized as ‘CrMo’ or ‘chromo’) displays superior shock-absorbance qualities. It’s relatively lightweight and easy to have repaired. Chromoly steel comes in a variety of grades and recipes.
• Hi-Tensile steel is low-cost, heavy and has inferior shock-absorbance qualities. It will often only be labeled as ‘steel’, with no mention of the words ‘Hi-Tensile’ or ‘Hi-Ten’.

Aluminum alloys are also used to build some new single-speed bikes. The compromise between price, strength and weight makes these frames attractive.

Compared to other tubing materials, aluminum can be somewhat rigid. It tends to vibrate, rather than absorbing impact. To alleviate this, some bikes use a carbon or steel fork with an aluminum frame. In the rare instance where the frame cracks, repairs are difficult and expensive.

In general, aluminum is lightweight, affordable and durable.

Carbon Fiber is lightweight, resilient, compliant and expensive. It’s strong and absorbs vibration well.

It can be restrictively expensive and is usually only necessary on performance bikes, where speed is a priority. A carbon fiber bike is more likely to be stolen and will be costly or impossible to repair if cracked. Carbon fiber single-speeds are rare.

Titanium is a boutique frame material that’s used in aircraft construction, due to its low weight and high strength. It’s rarer than other materials, because it’s more difficult to work with. A titanium bike frame can easily last a lifetime. It’s lighter than steel and has superior shock absorbance. On top of that, it’s highly corrosion resistant and close to rust-proof. It won’t age and isn’t prone to catastrophic failure, as can be the case for carbon fiber.

It’s more appropriate for performance bikes. Complete titanium single-speeds are uncommon.

Frames and Pricing

In terms of cost, Hi-Tensile bikes should be cheap. Most chromoly frames will be comparable in cost to aluminum. Lighter, high-end chromoly tubing is more costly than aluminum but cheaper than carbon fiber or titanium.

Frame Construction

A majority of new single-speeds are urban bikes that are built with geometry similar to road bikes or touring bikes. Tubing is often a little heavier, sturdier and thicker than on road bikes. This is to cut down on price, but also to assist with resilience on day-to-day commutes in urban areas.

‘Track Fork Ends’ are usually integrated into single-speed frames, where the rear wheel attaches to the rear triangle of your bike. This is the main structural difference between most single-speed and geared frames. These ‘rear-facing fork ends’ allow single-speed owners to easily adjust the tension of their chain, by moving the rear wheel forward and backward. On a geared bike, the rear derailleur continually adjusts tension across shifting gear ratios. Geared bikes use a vertical ‘dropout’.

Single-speed frames often have a more relaxed and less aggressive geometry than road bikes. Alternatively, some models can be aggressive and racy, putting the rider down low on the drop bars.

On town bikes and cruisers, riders sit almost ‘bolt-upright’.

Short to Medium distance rides call for a semi-upright riding position. This stance is more upright than a road bike, while still requiring the rider to lean forward a little. This gives the rider good visibility through traffic, while being able to gain speed and handle efficiently. Most single-speeds fall into this category. This aids good posture and reach distances. Most single-speeds put the rider in a more casual position than do road bikes.

Shorter distances can easily be cycled on a bike with more relaxed geometry. Good examples are classic step-through bikes and cruisers. They often have swept-back handlebars and a very upright seating position, with excellent urban visibility. ‘BMX cruisers’ have a laid-back ride position with wide bars and a lower saddle height.

Longer distances welcome a more aggressive position, for those who want to get fast and low on drop bars. It suits long slogs where you won’t need to constantly monitor dangerous traffic. In this category, we find aggressive single-speed and track frames. Track frames are built for velodrome use.

Due to their simplicity, single-speed bikes use less components than other bike types. Drivetrain components can be put under more stress than those on geared bikes, so they’re often built tougher. What other factors make single-speed components unique?

Single-speed bikes can use any type of handlebars. Most often, they have flat bars to allow the rider to maintain an upright stance. These bars have two main benefits:

• Comfort. Riders avoid the ‘hunched’ posture of the road cyclist.
• Visibility. Riders sit upright, maintaining visibility through traffic.

Shorter bars can help with negotiating traffic. It’s advised to keep them no narrower than shoulder width, to maintain ergonomic comfort.

Some riders prefer drop bars . This reduces upright visibility but aids speed. Track frames are built to be ridden with drop bars, on a velodrome.

A variety of ‘swept-back’ and angled bars are available. These can be easier on the wrists or offer a more casual ride position. North Road bars are a popular urban style that uses sweep.

Another style that you’ll see on single-speeds are bull-horns . These offer a flat surface for upright urban riding, along with curved ends. These curved ends allow riders to move their weight forward on climbs and to gain speed in a pursuit stance.

For a safe and enjoyable ride, effective brakes are essential. Single-Speed bikes may use any type of brake.

There are three main kinds; Rim, Disc and Coaster Brakes. Rim brakes are most common on urban single-speeds. Their low cost and simplicity matches the low cost and simplicity of single-speed bikes. Rim brakes use rubber pads to squeeze against the wheel rim, in order to slow it. They come in a few varieties.

Caliper brakes are attached to the frame or fork by a single bolt. They use curved arms, which must be long and wide enough to fit around your tires. For this reason, they are suited to accommodating narrow to mid-width tires. They are common on a variety of urban single-speed bikes, including town bikes and cruisers. Shimano and Tektro offer reliable mid-level to high-end options.

Cantilever brakes use two separate arms, attached to bosses on the bicycle frame. They easily accommodate wider tires. As such, they were popular on older mountain bikes and are now used on modern cyclocross machines. Newer models are powerful, precise and easy to maintain. They are the recommended winter rim brake.

Linear-pull brakes (also known as ‘V-brakes’) are a type of cantilever rim brake that uses a single cable and two arms. They allow room for fatter tires and may be found on offroad single-speeds, cruisers, town bikes and BMX cruisers. They are easily adjusted and maintained at home. That said, they can still be tricky to center.

The most important consideration with rim brakes is that they lose some power in wet weather. Winter braking also wears down rims as grit and filth gets attracted to your brake pads. However, they are cheaper than discs and easier to adjust without professional help.

U brakes are powerful caliper brakes that are sometimes used on 29” BMX cruisers and older mountain bikes. The pivots are mounted directly to the frame and fork.

Coaster Brakes

Coaster brakes are also known as ‘pedal brakes’. You might remember them from childhood, when simple bikes required you to push your pedals backwards to stop. They can be found on some new single-speeds, especially cruisers and town bikes.

There are no pads or discs and braking takes place largely within the wheel hub. Most coaster brakes provide somewhat inferior stopping power, compared to rim and disc brakes. But as with any other brakes, there is a wide range available in terms of quality and cost.

When using a coaster brake, it’s recommended to combine it with a front rim or disc brake. This insures against failure.

Disc Brakes

Disc brakes slow the bike by squeezing pads onto a disc, which is attached to the wheel hub. Discs cost more than rim brakes, but are now more affordable than they have ever been. They are more powerful than rim brakes, especially in wet weather. They allow for the use of wide tires and don’t wear down your rims. Many single-speeders are attracted to simplicity, frugality and a low total weight. For this reason, discs are less common on urban single-speed bikes.

The power offered by disc brakes is more applicable to off-road use. It isn’t uncommon to see them used on single-speed mountain bikes.

Disc brakes add weight to your bike. They are also more complicated than rim brakes; as pertains to maintenance, adjustment and repair.

There are two types of disc brake: hydraulic and mechanical . Hydraulic brakes provide greater stopping power and use brake fluid to transmit force. They are more costly than mechanical discs and trickier to maintain.

If you live in a drier climate, you might consider cutting costs and using rim brakes. But if your priorities are performance and all-weather resilience, discs could be your preferred option.

If you see manufacturers mentioning the ‘drivetrain’ of their bikes, they are referring to all the elements that contribute to gearing. On a single-speed, this includes the chainring, chain and a single cog. This cog is either incorporated into a freewheel (which has its own bearing housing) or it is attached to the freehub of a rear wheel that was designed for a geared cassette.

Either way, single-speed drivetrains are much simpler than drivetrains on a geared bike. You’ve only got one gear! For this reason, it is important to get your gear combination right for all your riding needs. The correct single-speed gearing is known as a ‘ratio’ .

Usually, a new bike comes with a ratio suited to an average rider on moderate terrain. You will need to ride your new single-speed for a while before working out if you want an easier or more difficult ratio. You can then consult your local bike shop for help in modfying your ratio. Many single-speed enthusiasts also enjoy learning how to modify their own gearing, as it’s a good introduction to D.I.Y. bicycle mechanics.

A solid starting point for an on-road single-speed ratio is within the range of: 2.3:1 to 2.75:1

Common street ratios on moderate terrain often use a chainring between 42 and 44 tooth. This is combined with a rear freewheel around 16 to 17 tooth. A single-speed with a 44t chainring and 17t freewheel is written as: 44:17 . This is equal to 2.6:1 .

Single-Speed gearing is usually a trade-off. It’s impossible to find a gear that is easy on climbs and fast on flats. But when a comfortable compromise is found, it can feel just right .

Most cyclists can’t ride a single-speed in hilly or mountainous areas. This is an endeavor reserved for the fittest and most ambitious cyclists. However, if you aspire to improve your level of fitness in general – or to train for geared riding – a single-speed is the way to go.

Belt drives use a carbon-fiber belt in place of a chain. They don’t require lubrication and won’t leave oil on your clothing or legs. Belt drives are smooth and silent.

They do require a certain kind of frame design known as a ‘split-frame’ and use a specialized cog or freewheel.

While they can be expensive, carbon belts are usually longer-lasting than chains. They are more common on higher-end single-speed commuters.

Drivetrain Components

On a single-speed, there are less parts than on a geared bike. There are no derailleurs, no gear shifters, no cassettes and no gear cables. This makes maintenance, repairs and upgrades a lot easier and cheaper.

However, it also means that the single chainring and freewheel are under a lot of stress. On a geared bike, this pressure and wear is distributed across multiple chainrings and cogs.

For this reason, it is important to make sure that your new bike uses quality drivetrain components.

Bottom Brackets

The bottom bracket sits between your cranks and is attached to the frame. It allows the cranks to rotate. The modern standard is a sealed cartridge bottom bracket with BSA thread. 68mm is the standard on road-going bikes and will be the easiest to upgrade and replace. Very low-end bikes may still use loose-bearing bottom-bracket systems. If the manufacturer does not specify a sealed cartridge bottom-bracket, be wary. The bottom-bracket takes the brunt of a cyclist’s force.

A 73mm bottom bracket is more common on a mountain bike. For mountain bikes, they may use a variety of types, including press-fit bottom-brackets and models with external bearings. These are usually more varied, specialized and higher-cost than basic urban models.

Your single chainring is the only sprocket being continually worked, day-in and day-out, whenever you ride. Traditionally, single-speeds used a 1/8” width chainring that was wider and tougher than the 3/32” chainrings used on geared bikes. These days, 3/32″ can be more than ample. Look for reliable brands. These include Shimano, FSA, Sugino and Miche. You don’t need the best on a new bike, as you can replace it. But it should be straight and strong, to be safe.

Both 1/8” and 3/32” width chains are standard on singlespeeds. KMC provide a lot of reliable, entry-level chains on new bikes. There are a number of other brands available too.

Quality “three-piece” cranks will be branded. Avoid bikes with no-name parts. They need to be well-machined and strong, especially for climbs – where all your weight is bearing down on them. Some ultra-cheap single-speeds come shod with cranks that bend or even snap. Snapped cranks have been known to cause terrible injury. There are many decent brands and most are made in Taiwan and China. Reliable names include Shimano, FSA, Sugino and Miche.

Most new single-speed bikes use a freewheel. This device has teeth and looks like a cog. It threads on to the rear wheel hub and does all the drivetrain work at the back end of the bike. It’s different to a fixed gear cog because it contains internal mechanisms.

Within the freewheel, there are bearings to allow it to rotate smoothly. In addition, there are teeth that engage on parts called ‘pawls’. This is what makes the rear wheel engage as you pedal, propelling you forward. Like your chainring, this component endures a lot of pressure and wear and should be decent quality. On poor quality single-speeds, these can fail to engage and slip. Shimano is a reliable default brand. Dicta make a cheaper entry-level model that works fine, but isn’t as durable.

The Contact Points

The ‘contact points’ are the three places where your body comes in contact with your bicycle. These parts of the bike are not as technically complex as the drivetrain or bottom bracket. Nevertheless, they are incredibly important. Customizing the contact points is relatively inexpensive and can make a huge difference to your level of comfort.

Most urban single-speed bikes use the narrow saddles familiar to road bikes. A single-speed mountain bike may use a more padded and robust saddle, that aids comfort and steering on rougher terrain. Riders of cruiser and town bikes sometimes choose plush and squishy seats. However, excessively cushioned saddles can be misleading. This ‘squishiness’ is uncomfortable on longer rides and will be felt as pain in your hips, thighs and bottom. This can cause numbness due to restricted blood supply.

A road-style saddle with a little extra padding is a popular style for urban single-speeds.

Moderate padding is ideal, ensuring that your weight is supported by your sit-bones. You might also want to consider ergonomic and health-conscious seats that take reproductive and groin health into account. Saddle choice is highly subjective and most riders will change the seat on their new bike. The easiest way to choose a new saddle is try a few out at your local bike shop.

Grips and Bar Tape

Good Grips contribute a lot to comfort. Thin or uncomfortable grips can result in soreness or fatigue. Cheap grips can be made of poor material that wears out quickly. Some riders are partial to ergonomically shaped grips. Again, it’s easier to know what works for you by getting your hands on some examples at your local bike shop.

On single-speeds, bar tape is used on curved ‘drop bars’ (like you see on track bikes) and on ‘bull horns’. Thinner bar tape is more likely to absorb road vibration. This can result in sore hands and wrists, especially after longer rides. Padded bar tape is more likely to insulate against shock on uneven surfaces. An added bonus is that bar tape comes in a variety of colors and patterns, giving you options to stylize and coordinate the look of your bike.

If you’re lucky, your new bike will arrive kit with decent pedals. Most likely though, pedals will be the first thing you’ll replace. Even high-end bikes can come with cheap plastic pedals intended for temporary use. Some of the best single-speed bikes are not supplied with pedals at all. Why is this? Pedal preference is very personal and manufacturers expect you to customize them.

Also, what’s the deal with cycling shoes? Are they necessary?

Flat (or ‘platform’) pedals can be made of plastic or metal and usually have some level of grip. You can easily move your feet from the pedals to the ground and back again, without having to ‘clip’ in and out. With flats, you can wear your everyday shoes and there’s no need to carry or store a spare pair at your destination. The main drawback is that they are less efficient than other pedals, particularly on climbs.

Pedal Straps attach to your flat pedals. They are an alternative to clipless pedals and cycling shoes. Pedal straps became popularized during the spike in interest in fixed gear cycling, where they’re useful for skid-stops. For single-speed riders, they offer lift on the upstroke, while being comfortable and easy to wear with casual shoes.

‘Clipless’ Pedals require cycling shoes to use. There is a ‘cleat’ on the sole of cycling shoes, that requires riders to ‘click’ in and out of pedals when removing their foot from them.

There are different systems of clipless pedal, with the most common being Shimano’s ‘SPD’. ‘Time’ pedals are also highly suited to commuting as they allow the rider to quickly click their shoe out to the side of the pedal.

Clipless pedals increase efficiency, especially on climbs, as they pull the pedals on the upstroke. This is particularly useful on a bike with only one gear. Some cyclists see clipless pedals as daunting, but it takes a very short amount of time to become familiar with them. Once you’re accustomed to clipless, using them soon becomes second nature. You can even buy cycling shoes with recessed cleats. You can walk comfortably in them, without ‘clip-clopping’ along.

Toe Clips are the precursor to clipless. They feature a ‘cage’ over the pedal that allows you to insert any shoe and achieve a similar upstroke pull to clipless pedals. They aren’t quite as efficient as clipless and can be more difficult to use. They need to be snug, but riders also need to slide their shoe backward out of the pedal cage before stopping. A number of cyclists are still dedicated to these pedals.

Along with tires, the contact points are the first parts that owners are likely to replace on a new bike. It’s an easy way to personalize the comfort, feel and style of your new machine. If they feel good straight-out-of-the-shop, there’s no need to swap them out. However, customizing the contact points can radically improve your comfort-level. Saddles, pedals, grips and bar tape are all inexpensive to replace and easy to adjust for novices.

There are three main materials that wheels are built from; alloy, carbon fiber and steel.

• Alloy is plenty light and very common. Most commuter wheels use alloy rims.
• Carbon Fiber is light, expensive and strong. It’s rare on single-speed wheels.
• Steel wheels are heavy and rarer on new bikes. Some roadster-style bikes still use them.

What Size Wheels?

A single-speed bike can have wheels of any size. However, most urban single-speeds will use 700c road wheels. These larger wheels translate your single-geared pedal power into the most distance available. Off-road single-speeds may have 29”, 27.5” or 26” wheels. There is no standard, but some sizes are much more common. Here’s the run-down of wheel sizes you’ll find on single-speeds:

700c is the most common wheel size found on single-speeds. It’s the same size as found on modern road bikes. Their large circumference allows them to roll quickly. They are less prone to jounce when passing over small cracks, bumps and debris. Because of their size, they are less agile than smaller wheels and may be heavier than them. The weight penalty is balanced out by by the fact that they roll faster than smaller sizes.

29” (or 29 inches) is the name used to describe wider 700c wheels, as found on some hybrids, BMX cruisers and mountain bikes. They share the same circumference as 700c wheels but usually use wider rims. It’s more appropriate to fit wider tires on these wider rims – and narrower tires on 700c rims. With fat tires on 29” wheels, they can make some bikes too tall for shorter riders. Keep this in mind when sizing up a new bike.

650b wheels are smaller in circumference than 700c, but larger than older style 26 inch mountain bike wheels. 650b has been popular with touring cyclists and randonneurs for many decades, but has recently gained a renewed appreciation and subsequent application to many bike types.

Because of their smaller size, they may be slower than 700c when shod with narrow tires. However, it’s important to note that a 650b wheel with a large 47c tire is the same circumference as a 700c wheel with a 28c or 30c tire. This also means that these tires have more air volume, which translates to increased comfort and jounce-reduction on rough roads.

650b wheels are more agile than their larger 700c brethren – and they also accelerate faster. There is another benefit of these mid-sized wheels – and it’s being capitalized-on by contemporary manufacturers. Using 650b wheels, smaller bike sizes stay in proportion and allow a lower standover height.

If you’re a smaller or shorter rider, 650b is well worth your consideration. Some models come with the option of 650b or 700c. For other models; larger frame sizes use 700c, while smaller sizes use 650b.

27.5” is mountain-bike lingo for 650b. They’re the same circumference and diameter as 650b but usually sport wider rims for larger tires and rougher applications. Rims will likely be tough, particularly when coupled with the fat, slick tires that fit best on these rims.

You’ll usually only confront 27.5” wheels on single-speed mountain bikes or some BMX cruisers.

26” wheels used to be the standard on mountain bikes. They are smaller than 27.5” and 650b. As such, they are tough, agile and quickly pick up speed. However, they are noticeably slower than the larger sizes when it comes to maintaining speed over distances.

You may enjoy these wheels with wide and cushioned tires, if comfort is more of a priority than speed. Some cruisers and town bikes will still use 26” wheels for a plush ride. On single-speeds, they’re usually only found on mountain bikes.

Smaller wheel sizes. Many single-speeds with wheels smaller than 26” are either childrens’ bikes or BMXs. The rare exception is the odd folding bike. These may have wheels anywhere between 16” and 24”. To compensate for the low rolling speed of tiny wheels, these bikes will use a large gear ratio.

Single-Speeds can use any kind of tire. Urban single-speeds will usually use slick or semi-slick tires, as they are almost exclusively ridden on urban roads.

For most commuters, slick tires suffice for a large part of the year. Lightly treaded tires may be more appropriate for winter. Of course, if your commute includes dirt roads or particularly neglected asphalt, you might need something more rugged. If you’re into single-speed mountain-biking, you’ll want something chunky with grippy tread.

An important thing to remember is that wider, chunkier and fatter tires add weight. Whether you’re riding on or off-road, it always helps to shed weight from a bike that only has one gear!

Mid-size tires, between 30c and 47c, can be run at lower pressures. This increases shock absorbance, while still being efficient and decently fast. A wider tire creates more traction through a wider ‘contact patch’, meaning that more rubber is in contact with the ground at any given time. For you, this translates to a safer ride with more grip, less slippage and more braking power. This is particularly helpful in wet conditions.

When choosing tires for your single-speed, the factors to balance are:

• Comfort vs.

Wider tires are heavier, slower and more comfortable. Thinner tires are lighter, faster, less comfortable and more prone to punctures.

For mixed riding on both asphalt and the occasional gravel-track, a ‘semi-slick’ or mixed-tread hybrid tire will be more versatile. These are often less slick, more grippy and have some knobs or file tread.

Single-speed tire sizes on 700c wheels can vary a lot.They’ll usually sit between 23c and 35c, for an urban bike. These sizes are designated as ‘23c’ and ‘35c’ . Anything over 35c can get heavy. Less than 28c is intended primarily for speed and will be firmer, less forgiving and more susceptible to punctures. On 650b tires, sizes between 42c and 47c are popular on city bikes, as they give a similar circumference to a 700 x 28c to 700 x 30c tire.

Sizes are written in the format: ‘700x25c’ , where ‘700’ refers to the wheel size (700c) and ‘25c’ describes the tire circumference (in this case, approximately 25mm). You’ll find this sizing written along the side of the tire.

For 700c and 650b , tire sizes are written in millimeters (ie 28c, 35c, 47c). For mountain bike wheel sizes (29”, 27.5”, 26”), they are usually written in inches (1.75”, 1.95”, 2.30”). History has left us with a mess of conflicting sizing standards that can become complicated. There is a more precise, universal reference standard known as E.T.R.T.O. , which may either enlighten or confuse you.

Never fear, because we have a breakdown of…

Single-Speed Tire Sizes and Widths

Racier single-speeds will have similar tires to a road bike. The standard is a 23c width .

If you’re a casual city rider, tires 28c and wider will provide more comfort and give you added protection against punctures and curb hits.

Some single-speeders like to rock a combo, with a speedy 23c in the front and a tougher, wider 25 or 28c in the rear.

32c is reasonable as a large size. The upper limit would be about 35c , before tires become heavy and slow. Town bikes and cruisers may have tires as wide as 42c .

Anything narrower than 28c is fast, but more susceptible to punctures and pinch-flats.

29” (29 Inch)

29” is the mountain bike version of 700c. You’ll find these on single-speed mountain bikes and 29” BMX cruisers.

A majority of 29” tires are knobbly mountain bike tires. But slick varieties are also available. 29” wheels will use wider rims than most 700c wheels and wider tires are safer on these rims. These fatter tires will be comfortable and tough, but heavier than narrower 700c options.

To know the full range that is suited to your rims, refer to the details printed on the rim or the manufacturer recommendations.

Because 650b wheels are smaller than 700c, they are often fit with wider tires to give them a similar circumference. Their wide volume makes them comfortable and cushioning on bumpy rides. They are increasing in popularity. Subsequently, a larger number of high-quality options are becoming available every day.

Popular sizes for city commuting are between 42c and 47c . 650B x 47c is equivalent in size to 700c x 28c.

If you’re using 27.5” tires, you’re probably referring to a single-speed mountain bike. These rims are the same circumference and diameter as 650b. They are usually wider than most 650b rims and suit a wider minimum tire size than that which can be fit to a 650b rim.

In the single-speed world, 26” tires are mostly seen on single-speed mountain bikes. On roads, they are used by some cruisers and town bikes. 1.5” to 1.9” are some of the narrowest widths available, but these result in a somewhat rigid ride and a slower, smaller diameter wheel. Some 26” rims are not built to handle the high pressures of narrower tires.

The safest tires to use are most likely 1.95” to 2.125” in slicks or semi-slicks. Anything up to 3.0” can be used on single-speed mountain bikes.

Anything this size or smaller may be used on a single-speed folding bike. Otherwise, it’s probably a BMX.

It’s a good idea to invest in a sturdy pair of tires, with decent grip and puncture protection. ‘Sidewalls’ are the sides of the tires. If they aren’t strong, they can wear out before the tread. They can also puncture or pinch-flat easily. A pinch-flat results from impact with a sharp edge (such as a curb), where the sidewall is ‘bitten’ by the wheel rim. There’s nothing worse than having to repair a puncture every few days.

Good tires are a great contribution to safe riding.

The only single-speeds that need a suspension fork are mountain bikes. These days, there are a lot of great big-volume tires that roll fast and act as ample suspension on rough city roads.

For city cycling, suspension isn’t necessary. It adds weight, complication and maintenance needs to a bike. In exchange, it offers a level of shock-absorbance that isn’t usually required for road riding. Suspension is overkill for urban bikes.

‘Full-Suspension’ single-speeds are almost non-existent, as their weight would make them inefficient. A bike with front suspension and a rigid rear-end is known as a ‘hardtail’ .

For hardtail bikes, you will find noticeable differences between suspension forks of differing qualities. For more detailed information, please refer to our guide to buying a new mountain bike.

The quality of a suspension fork will be reflected in the price of a hardtail single-speed bike.

‘Mounts’ and ‘eyelets’ refer to the drilled holes or mount-points on the frame, where you can attach essential and useful accessories.

Some single-speeders aim for minimalism and don’t care to attach a rack, fitted fenders or a bottle holder. Commuting single-speeders will often seek eyelets to attach a rear rack , at minimum.

To avoid wet clothes and a muddy back, it helps to choose a frame that has mount points for fenders . If your single-speed frame doesn’t have them, you can attach a rear fender to your seat post.

‘Bosses’ are the name for eyelets that let you attach a water bottle cage. Many commuters and mountain bikers will want at least one bottle available.

Some single-speed bikes will come ready with all three of the above. This might be something to consider when crunching the numbers on the cost of a new bike. But if you like things clean and simple, feel free to forget ‘em.

These are the most common accessories sought by buyers of any new bike:

Lights. When looking at your options, consider USB-rechargeable lights. They reduce waste and don’t require removable batteries.

Locks. A chunky ‘D-Lock’ or similar is recommended. Cables are usually breakable. Remember to buy a lock big enough to secure your wheel – together with your frame – to something secure and stationery.

Fenders. A seasonal essential. If you have mount-points on your bike, you can attach rigid fenders and leave them there all winter. Quite a few single-speeds don’t, but you can buy a removable fender that attaches to your seatpost.

Racks If you use a rack and panniers, you can carry far more than you could comfortably tote in a backpack. This moves weight off your back and shoulders, while lessening the chance of arriving at your destination with a sweaty back.

Consider whether you need panniers – and if you need a front and / or rear racks. They may be too heavy for your single-speed commute – or you might lack the required mounts. Luckily, there are many innovative rack alternatives to consider.

Chainguards. This is an accessory that covers the chain and often the chainrings. It protects your legs and clothing from grease. On cheaper bikes, these can rattle and rub against the chain. Higher quality options can be quiet and give peace of mind.

Some single-speeds come equipped with a chainguard, fenders and even lights or a rack. This is definitely something to keep in mind when considering your budget.

As mentioned above, the importance of a good lock can’t be understated. Singlespeeds are often easier to secure than other kinds of bike, especially if they use nutted axles.

Nutted axles may require you to carry a tool in order to change a flat tire. However, they can deter thieves by making thievery attempts more obvious. Often, they won’t bother. Quick-release levers make your wheels easy to steal. Your safest bet is to lock your wheels to your frame and to something stationery. You’ll notice that bike messengers almost exclusively use nutted axles.

If you are locking up your bike in public spaces, your safest bet is an inexpensive and nondescript bike. A flashy single-speed is tempting fate.

There are a lot of cheap, new single-speed bikes on the market. In the early 2000s and 2010s, the urban single-speed experienced a renaissance in popularity. This resulted in the market being flooded by a flurry of brands and models. Because of their simplicity, many manufacturers have tried their hand at producing a line of single-speed bikes. Even though they are simple, they can be made poorly. A single-speed’s drivetrain can undergo a large amount of torque and stress.

It’s important to look for a quality frame and components when buying a new single-speed.

Super-cheap bikes often come equipped with low-quality components that won’t last. You may think, “Oh, I don’t ride a lot, so it should last a while”, but these bikes can start to fail immediately. They can also make your ride experience miserable. As the parts fail, you’ll end up spending more money on upgrades and repairs. This money could be better spent on a reliable, higher quality bike that you can trust . This is the more cost-effective option.

If you aren’t a cycling enthusiast, most single-speed bikes may look the same. But many of the important factors are not obvious. This includes drivetrain components; such as your bottom-bracket, hubs, chainrings, cranks and freewheel. Frame material is also important to consider (see Frames section).

Brakes may be the most important factor of all (see main Brakes section).

It can be difficult to discern crud from quality, but by reading a wide range of buyer and expert reviews you should be able to make an informed decision.

When it comes to single-speeds, there are many brands producing parts. Too many to memorize! But there are reliable names to look for. When it comes to gearing components, Shimano can be trusted.

At the lowest price point, you can potentially buy a new single-speed bike for as little as $100. What you’ll get for this price is basically disposable. Frames are certainly heavy, hi-tensile steel. Components are cheap, heavy, unreliable and subject to imminent failure. Most buyers end up replacing a majority of components within the first year of ownership. Either that or they get rid of it and buy a new one.

From $270, you can find an alloy, 29” BMX cruiser with a chromoly fork. Some parts are branded. This kind of single-speed is more solid than many skinny road bikes in this price range.

Starting around $330 and up, you can find cut-rate single-speeds that combine some brand-name parts with acceptable no-name components. They will be hi-tensile steel. A good rule is that you can trust a manufacturer that makes mention of the kind of steel they use. If it’s hi-tensile, that’s OK – just know that your ride is a little heavier and a tad more rigid.

From as low as $400, chromoly-steel bikes become affordable. This puts you in a realm where frames are lighter and more comfortable through increased flexibility. Up to about $500, these will still have a mix of branded and generic parts.

Heading up to $500 – $600, bikes use chromoly-steel and aluminum frames, with mid-range branded parts. At this price range you can find bikes that are durable, with components that can be maintained and used for years. There are some good bikes in this range. Higher-end BMX cruisers sit here too.

Between $600 and $800, road and commuter single-speeds will be good to great quality with brand name parts and a considerable weight reduction. Chromoly or aluminum is standard. BMX cruisers are 100% chromoly with high-end components.

$800 to $1200 will see you into the world of high-end single-speed commuters and performance track frames that are drilled for use with front and rear brakes. Disc brakes enter the fray here.

The world of high-end single-speeds is a weird and wonderful one. Here, there are no rules and you will find many types of specialist niche vehicles. Single-speeds never get as expensive as road bikes or high-end mountain bikes and rarely top $2500. They are almost never made of carbon-fiber. In this range, $1200 to $2500 can buy you:

• A high-end commuter with 650b wheels, disc brakes and a carbon belt-drive.
• A titanium single-speed built on an aggressive track frame.
• A beautiful vintage-style single-speed with a leather saddle and grips.
• A single-speed mountain bike with disc brakes and a rigid fork.
• A single-speed mountain bike with disc brakes and a front suspension fork.
• A single-speed cyclocross bike with a carbon fork and disc brakes.

You can spend the absolute minimum on a single-speed and end up dealing with rapidly failing components, repair fees and the cost of shelling out for replacement parts.

You can spend top-dollar on a sexy street-machine or mountain bike with top-end parts. If you ride for recreation, racing or fitness and aren’t going to be locking your bike up in public areas, it’s no problem. If you usually commute or run errands on your bike, it might not be such a great idea. A lightweight track frame with skinny wheels might not cope with rough streets and curb hits. It will eventually get scratched and probably attract thieves.

You can spend moderately, compromising between performance and cost. Aim for a sturdy, low-key, medium-weight bike with resilient parts. This type of machine can last you for years as a commuter and run-around.

Most manufacturers will have a range of sizes available for each bike. In the U.S., this is given in inches. If you aren’t an experienced cyclist, this may hold little meaning for you. Don’t fret.

Basic sizes may be given as: S / M / L / XL – or similar. Each of these sizes should have a height range associated with them (for example, M = 5’7” to 5’10” ). These are great as a rough guide, however…

There’s no such thing as an ‘Average Medium’: Sizing is not the same across all bikes and manufacturers. A ‘Medium’ on one model can be the same as a ‘Large’ in another model. In addition, we all have differing proportions, in comparison to our full height. Some of us have shorter or longer arms, legs or torsos.

More specific measurements are given in centimeters or inches, relating to frame size. This often refers to the length of the seat tube. For mountain bikes, inches are used (ie 14”, 16”, 18.5”, 20”). For road bikes, it’s in centimeters and will look like: ‘52cm’, ‘55cm’, ‘58cm’ etc. Commuter bikes may be measured in either centimeters or inches. This may allow you to get a ‘frame of reference’ (if you will) in comparison with different models and other bikes you have owned, but even these sizes vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and between bike styles (a 52cm town bike is very different from a 20.5” mountain bike).

If you’re determined to perform your entire bike purchase process online, you’ll have to check the manufacturer’s ‘Geometry Charts’ and compare these measurements to your own (after measuring your own ‘reach’, ‘standover’ etc). These charts may seem complicated at first, but learning how to read them is rewarding.

‘Standover’ height is the distance from the ground to the top of the top tube. If the bike has a sloping top tube, this measurement is taken halfway along the tube. In urban areas, you’ll be regularly stopping and starting in traffic and having to put a foot or two down at the stop lights. When you have both feet flat on the ground, there should be one to two inches between the top tube and your precious assets. Measure your inseam with a measuring tape and add this ‘one to two inches’ to attain your optimum standover height.

Saddle height will be easy to adjust if you purchase a bike with an appropriately-sized frame. If the frame is undersized, you may not be able to raise the seat up high enough because you’ll run out of seatpost. If the seatpost is raised past its ‘maximum insertion level’, it can fatigue, bend or break. If your frame is too big, you won’t be able to lower the seat enough and your standover will be nonexistent, exposing you to potential groin injury. Yowch.

A ‘step-through’ style bike suits riders who prefer to wear dresses, skirts or jeans while riding, or anyone who wants an easier time of swinging a leg over the top tube.

Reach is the distance from your saddle to your handlebars. Too long – and you’ll be stretched out. This will not only cause soreness, but will reduce your visibility and your handling dexterity. Too short – and you’ll feel cramped and excessively upright. Maybe your elbows will knock your knees.

How to Be Certain?

You can find online guides that explain how to measure yourself for an approximate fit, but the best solution to this problem is to visit your local bike shop.

Your local bike shop can offer you a professional fit and match you to appropriate bikes. You can even test-ride bikes and get a feel for the size and type that suits you.

Before you make a selection from the myriad choices out there, here are some key criteria to consider.

• Will your new single-speed be your daily commuter?
• Do you use it mostly for short trips , errands and shop runs?
• Are you dedicated to single-speed racing or long distance riding on roads?
• Do you heed the call of single-speed mountain biking or cyclocross?

Knowing your riding intentions will help you find the best single-speed bike for your needs. Most new single-speeds are sold as simple urban bikes for casual riders. You can further simplify your choices by focusing on your…

Riding Style

If you like a comfortable, mid-weight bike that can attain decent speeds while offering good visibility in traffic , you’ll probably aim for an Urban Single-Speed.

If you want one bike for all your needs, consider a Do-It-All type single-speed.

If you’re a strong rider that’s dedicated to high speeds and agility, a Single-Speed Road Bike or Track Frame will suit.

If your style is more easy-going, a step-through Town Bike (or even a cruiser ) may satisfy.

For cruising comfort, indestructibility, wheelies and style – take a look at a 29” BMX Cruiser.

For specialist disciplines, seek out a Single-Speed Cyclocross or Mountain Bike.

There are a number of mid-priced single-speeds that can handle rough city streets and light gravel equally well. Some road-only bikes are more lightweight and delicate.

Carrying Capacity

Is cargo a concern? Keep in mind that some single-speed frames don’t have mounts for racks. The same will go for most track bikes.

With these factors in mind, let’s move on to choosing from the single-speed types.

Urban / Everyday

Most new single-speed bikes fall into this category.

These bikes are usually built similarly to classic road bikes and modern touring bikes. This means that frame tubing is narrow but not delicate, compromising between moderate weight and strength. They are tougher than race bikes but not as heavy or resilient as mountain bikes.

An urban single-speed can be used by any cyclist over shorter distances or in flatter areas on sealed roads. Otherwise, they suit riders who possess an extra level of fitness or are looking to gain it.

Ride Position

Ride position is usually ‘semi-upright’, as these bikes have flat handlebars. This offers good visibility in urban areas. Frame shapes vary, from more aggressive and leant-forward, to laid-back and upright. They are less aggressive than a road bike.

Urban single-speeds with chromoly steel frames will usually weigh between 17 and 25 pounds, depending on how robust they are. Bikes with hi-tensile steel frames can weigh up to 35 pounds. On a single gear, this upper weight limit will quickly exhaust most riders.

Frame Material

Steel is common. Chromoly steel frames are compliant and forgiving on rough surfaces. They are lighter than their Hi-Tensile steel counterparts and cost slightly more. ‘Hi-ten’ is cheaper, heavier and jouncier, without having a strength advantage over chromoly. Aluminum frames are also available.

Wheels are almost always 700c. Some of the smallest bike sizes may be made for 650b wheels. A few new models use 650b wheels with ‘plus-size’ tires.

When commuting, most single-speeds will use tires between 25c and 35c on 700c wheels. 650b wheels will often use tires between 42c and 47c. These sizes are chosen in order to cope with rough city streets, while still maintaining speed.

Tire Clearance

Keep in mind that some new urban single-speeds only have enough room in the frame for narrower tires (up to about 28c). Skinny tires are fast and light, but may be less comfortable and resilient than mid-width tires.

Urban single-speed bikes may or may not have rack mounts, fender mounts or bottle bosses.

Drivetrains

Most drivetrains are similar and use a chain with a single chainring and freewheel.

Ratios on new bikes are usually around 2.3:1 up to 2.75:1. You’ll find chainring/ freewheel combinations with a 42 to 44 tooth chainring and 16 to 20 tooth freewheel. 44:16 and 44:17 is common, with some as steep as 48:17. They are suited to a town of moderate elevation for a rider of moderate fitness. This allows for a compromise between climbing ability and moderate speeds on flats.

Most models use caliper rim brakes. Some models use a coaster brake, sometimes in conjunction with a front caliper brake. Coasters are more common on older bikes.

For most people, urban single-speeds suit short to medium rides and flatter terrain. If you are a stronger cyclist or looking to become one, you might consider these bikes for longer jaunts.

Urban single-speeds with hi-tensile frames can be bought for as low as $100. But at this price, you get what you pay for. Hi-tensile bikes with better components can be bought for around $300. Chromoly steel options, with mid-range components, start at around $450.

• Cost. Many decent, low-cost options are available.
• Flexibility. It’s a generalist’s city bike.
• Security. It’s of least concern if your bike isn’t flashy.
• Flip-Floppin’. A ‘flip-flop’ hub helps riders learn fixed gear riding.
• Maintenance. Parts are easily sourced, interchangeable and standardized.

Compromise on…

• Speed. They’re less racy than track bikes.
• Comfort. Tires can be narrow. Town bikes and BMX cruisers are more casual.
• Strength. Not for off-road use, gravel roads or trick-riding.
• Weight. They aren’t as light as a high-end track bike.

‘Do-It-All’ Bike

These are ‘all-rounder’ bikes that are made a bit tougher than your average city single-speed. Construction is a bit sturdier, tire clearance is a little bigger.

A do-it-all bike can handle the roughest city streets, in addition to hardpack dirt roads and some gravel. They are more practical and less racy than aggressive models. They make good workhorses and can serve as delivery bikes.

Ride position is semi-upright with flat handlebars. This offers good visibility in urban areas and off-road conditions. It’s also a bit more casual.

Do-it-All rigs start at around 19lb, with the more beefy examples getting up around 27lb.

Chromoly steel is the most common material here. It’s tough and compliant over broken roads, even when loads are toted.

Wheels are mostly 700c, with more plus-size 650b examples becoming available.

Tires on these bikes are wider and tougher than on urban single-speeds. 30c to 35c is a decent average size.

Clearance is more generous than on urban and race single-speeds. Maximum clearance is around 38c to 45c, allowing you to fit cyclocross and gravel tires for off-road use.

A good do-it-all bike has mounts for at least one rack, one bottle cage and fenders.

Standard single-speed drivetrain: one chainring, one freewheel and a chain.

Ratios are often a little lower than on lightweight and aggressive bikes. Maybe 2.5:1 (ie 46:18).

Quite a few of these rigs use linear (V-brakes) to accommodate larger tires than street bikes, while keeping prices down. But there isn’t any standard.

These bikes are comfortable to ride any distance, short or long, at a moderate and even pace.

$800 to $1300 gets you a resilient, reliable and durable bike with hardy components.

• Build. They’re tough enough to knock around whilst carrying cargo.
• Flexibility. It’s a commuter, work-bike, even a gravel or cyclocross bike.
• Durability. The do-it-all will serve you dutifully, for years.
• Speed. They’re not race bikes.
• Weight. They aren’t heavy but they outweigh race and track bikes.

Single-Speed Commuters

Strong, with mid-width tubing similar to touring bike construction.

Primarily for commuting and urban use. Resilient enough for hardpack and some gravel. Suits weekend jaunts.

Varies, but more or less upright geometry. Top tubes may be slightly sloped for extra standover. Flat handlebars for upright visibility.

23lb to 27lb is about average.

High-end Chromoly steels and Aluminum are common.

650b is common on this new style of bike. 700c specimens are also out there.

650b x 47c is the current favorite.

650B x 47C or 700C x 35 to 45C.

This is an urban utility bike. It should have mounts, eyelets and/or bosses for racks, fenders and bottle cages.

Both chain and belt-drives are common.

Ratios are slightly higher than 700c urban single-speeds, to compensate for 650b wheels. 2.45:1 to 2.75:1 is a common range for new models. ( 44:18 chain-drive and 55:20 belt-drive are examples).

Brakes are usually discs. Mechanical options are common.

These bikes offer a comfortable ride, for as far as you can pedal in one gear.

Available models use quality components and construction. Expect to pay $1200 to $2000.

• Quality. Component selection is considered well.
• All Weather Capability , provided by a stable frame and disc brakes.
• Comfort. 47c tires provide high speeds combined with maximum comfort.
• Utility. These are practical bikes, with provisions for racks, fenders and bottles.
• Versatility. This could be your single-speed gravel ride and weekend rambler.
• Safety; via disc brakes, high visibility and tough construction.
• Price. This level of quality comes at a suitable price.
• Weight. Weights are moderate, but not super-light.

Single-Speed Road Bikes and Track Frames with Brakes

These bikes are built with speed and agility as a priority over strength. Track bikes are built with the intended purpose of velodrome racing. Many track frames are not drilled to attach brakes.

They are used by folk who prefer to ride and race single-speed, over both short and long distances. Street riders love adapting a track frame to urban use. Messengers often use customized single-speed and track frames.

A fast single-speed may have either drop bars or flat bars. Either way, it puts the rider in an aggressive stance, leaning forward. More-so with drop bars.

Aggressive single-speeds are usually quite light, even though weight isn’t the primary concern here. Conservatively, 15 to 22 pounds is likely.

Chromoly steel is popular in this range. Aluminum is also used, to a lesser extent. Track frames are built tough, to withstand the severe lateral forces of velodrome racing and hard pedaling. However, they may not be so robust when confronted with the rigors of street-riding and curb hits. Single-speed racing bikes often use tubing similar to that used on tougher road bikes.

Wheels are almost always 700c.

Tires are slick and usually narrow, between 19c and 28c.

Tire clearance may be less than on an urban single-speed, and may be limited to 25c. True track bike frames are designed to use tires between 19c and 22c, but may allow for slightly more. Upper limit on a racy single-speed is probably 28c.

Urban single-speed bikes may or may not have mounts or bosses for racks, fenders or bottle cages. Many track frames have none of these mounts.

Most drivetrains are similar and use a single chainring, freewheel and chain.

As these bikes are usually ridden by single-speed enthusiasts, they may have steeper ratios than a casual urban bike. They’ll be closer to the 2.75:1 to 3.0:1 end of the scale. 46:17 to 48:16, for example.

Brakes on single-speed road bikes are mostly caliper rim brakes. It’s important to note that many track frames aren’t drilled for brakes and even if you replace the fork with one that is drilled for a brake, you will only have one brake available. In an emergency, sudden front braking can be dangerous.

An aggressive single-speed is more attuned to longer distances than an urban single-speed. Track bikes are very aggressive and suit short, fast sprints or longer rides for a niche few.

These bikes are more refined than your average, casual single-speed and will set you back anywhere from roughly $800 to $1200.

• Speed. These bikes are made to ride and accelerate quickly.
• Agility. Aggressive street bikes exhibit sharp, tight handling.
• Fitness. Theses bikes will either use or build strong calves and quads.
• Weight. The lightest single-speeds are in this category.
• Fun. Few bikes deliver the simplicity and thrill of a fast single-speed.
• Price: These bikes use higher-end parts to ensure performance at speed.
• Versatility. Track frames usually don’t have any mounts.
• Strength. Many of these frames are more delicate than urban single-speeds.

Fixed Gear Bikes – “Fixies”

Fixed gear bikes can use any frame that is used by a single-speed. Track bike frames are more commonly used by fixed gear riders than by single-speeders in general (see above). Track frames do not feature mount points to attach brakes , as they are built for velodrome use.

Fixed gear bikes can be ridden by many cyclists over shorter distances or in flatter areas . Otherwise, they suit riders who possess an extra level of fitness or are looking to gain it.

Ride positions are similar to those found on singlespeeds.

Weights are comparable to those of singlespeed bikes.

The same frame materials are used for singlespeed and fixed gear bikes.

Wheels are almost always 700c . A small number of riders experiment with 650b wheels.

Tires are similar in size to those used on singlespeeds. As the rear tire is ‘skidded’ to brake, it’s a good idea to have a tough, high quality rear tire . A wider tire can provide a large contact patch for stopping.

Tire clearances are similar to those of singlespeeds. True track bike frames are designed to use tires between 19c and 22c, but ‘street track’ frames may allow for rubber up to 25c.

‘Fixie’ frames may or may not have mounts or bosses for racks, fenders or bottle cages. Many track frames have none of these mounts.

Most drivetrains are external, with one chainring and a single cog that is fixed onto the rear hub. This means that the rear wheel keeps moving as long as the pedals rotate . They move in unison, linked by your chain. You can’t coast on a fixed gear bike.

Fixed gear ratios tend to be higher than on your average single-speed. Because you will be continuously pedaling on descents, it’s more comfortable at a lower cadence. 2.75:1 is a good starting point.

The maximum number of rim brakes used on a fixed gear is usually one. This is a front brake . The rear fixed cog acts as a brake but this technique takes some effort to master. Some skilled riders (including bike messengers) use only the rear fixed hub to stop. This is illegal in many areas and does not provide instant braking. It’s more of a skid and can be dangerous if a chain were to break. A front brake is encouraged .

For most people, fixed gear bikes suit short to medium rides and flatter terrain . If you are a stronger cyclist or looking to become one , you might consider a fixed gear bike for longer jaunts. The need to ‘always be pedaling’ can be tiring if your quads aren’t up to snuff.

Fixed gear bikes can be much cheaper than other options. That said, it isn’t uncommon for enthusiasts to pay more for good looking bikes with exotic components.

• Maintenance doesn’t get any simpler than with a fixed gear bike.
• Weight . Most fixed gears are lightweight.
• Cred . The ability to ride a fixed gear can muster respect in some circles.
• Aesthetics . A clean, stripped-back fixed gear can look pretty darn good.
• Fitness . Fixed gear bikes can contribute to a higher level of fitness.
• On climbs , the momentum of a fixed drivetrain ‘propels’ you forward.
• ‘ Riding fixed ’ uniquely synchronizes your movement with the bike’s machinery.
• Security . Low-key fixed gears won’t attract thieves and can be inexpensive to replace (Most thieves can’t ride a fixed gear bike!)
• Ease . With only one gear, they require greater fitness for climbs and long distances.
• Distance . Many cyclists are only able to ride shorter distances on a fixed gear bike.
• Security . Flashy fixed gear bikes are more stealable, due to their elevated level of radness.
• Safety , especially if a chain breaks. Riding a fixed gear requires practice.
• Comfort . Riding a fixed gear requires concentration and can be fatiguing.

The Difference Between Single-speeds and Fixed Gear Bikes

On a fixed gear bike, you can not coast. When the bike is moving, you are always pedaling. On a singlespeed, you can coast. Rolling down hills without pedaling is no problem. Many singlespeeds come with a ‘flip-flop’ rear hub. This has a fixed-gear cog on one side and a coasting freewheel on the other. This allows you to ‘flip’ between the two, giving you a chance to practice fixed gear riding or to choose to ride fixed, seasonally.

‘Town bikes’, ‘City Bikes’ and ‘Dutch Bikes’ are heavy, solid, upright and casual. Classic, sweeping shapes with step-through frames are popular. They have a low standover height and suit wearing dresses, skirts and casual clothing.

These bikes suit short, cruisy commutes.

You sit very upright on these bikes. They often have wide, swept-back bars that leave the arms akimbo.

There’s no getting around it. Town bikes are almost always heavy.

Frames are usually steel (and frequently heavy, jouncy, high-tensile steel at that). Sometimes, aluminum.

Wheels are often 700c (sometimes written as 28” which is an older ‘roadster’ size). Older bikes actually use a rarer size 28” wheel. They may also be 27.5”, 650b or 26”.

Rubber is often at the fat end of the spectrum, from about 32c to 38c.

Town bikes will often allow for wide “balloon tires”. These can reach 700c x 50c or 60c in width.

Town bikes may come fit with a basket or rack. They often have rack and fender mounts. They may or may not have a mount for a bottle cage.

Most drivetrains use a single chainring, freewheel and chain. Chainguards are common.

Closer ratios are specified on town bikes. This makes it easier to move their heavy weight while seated in the classic upright manner.

The Town Bike is heavy and must be stopped. In the rim brake category, we have V-brakes and calipers. Coaster brakes still exist on some new models. Disc brakes are rare.

A town bike welcomes a short ride. They’re great for brief commutes, errands, corner-store trips, riverside ambles and picnics.

Most town bikes are a cheerfully cheap, low-cost option. They’re simple and not necessarily low-quality.

• Comfort. They’re relaxed and upright, with wide bars for cruisy boat steering.
• Resilience is a hallmark of well-built Town Bikes, e.g. the traditional Dutch Bike.
• Maintenance is minimal and usually simple.
• Baskets and Racks may come included with your town bike.
• Weight. Tradition dictates that sturdiness and durability are priorities.
• Climbing Ability, due to the upright ride position, close ratio and weight.
• Distance, also due to the upright ride position, close ratio and weight.
• Speed. Again; due to the upright ride position, close ratio and weight.

29” BMX Cruisers

This is the Big-Kids’ BMX . Fat-tired, twenty nine inch wheels have a bigger diameter than 700c wheels on a road bike. This makes them fast enough to be practical as a commuter, while being built as tough as any other BMX.

There are two main uses for the BMX cruiser. In one camp are the chill riders, who just want a relaxed and comfy run-a-bout for casual rides. The other group are trick-riders and wheelie afficionados.

BMX cruisers usually have the seat low, bars high and ‘slack’ geometry for a laid-back ride.

These bikes are tough, not light. A lot of bikes are around 29lb, while 28lb to 34lb is the range.

Chromoly steel is the preferred material for the BMX cruiser. Some aluminum examples exist.

Wheels are 29 Inches.

Tires are slick and fat, for comfort and big hits on roads, between 2.10” and 2.5”.

Tire clearance is generous. Up to 2.5”.

BMX cruisers usually do not have mounts or bosses for racks, fenders or bottle cages. Front racks can be attached to some forks.

Ratios are usually lower than on other single-speeds, to enable slow-speed cruising on these heavy rigs. Ratios also need to suit wheelies and tricks. Anywhere from 1.95:1 to 2.44:1 can be found on new bikes. Chainrings and sprockets are both smaller than on most racier bikes. Expect 33:16 / 36:16 / 30:13 or similar.

Most BMX cruisers come equipped with one rear brake. Most often, this is a linear ( V-Brake ) or U Brake. You can always attach an additional front brake.

BMX cruisers are heavy but comfortable and suit short to medium distances.

There is quite a wide range in quality, weight and style. Anywhere from $300 to $1000 can be expected, with a lot of good options around the $550 to $750 mark.

• Indestructibility: …or close to it. BMX cruisers are near bombproof.
• Comfort. Laid-back, with massive tires and a relaxed riding position.
• Fun. If so inclined; you can jump and wheelie these rigs.
• Price. 29” BMXs are a budget alternative to a sturdy 700c bike.
• Style. There are some visually and structurally impressive rides on the market.
• Weight. BMX cruisers are hefty.
• Speed. With the stock ratio and extra weight, don’t expect to break records.
• Mounts. They usually don’t have any.

Single-Speed Mountain Bikes

They’re made for off-road use.

Varies, but a slack top tube allows a lower saddle height to keep weight toward the rear on descents. Flat handlebars keep you upright.

Heavier than a single-speed road or track bike. However, with high-end and lightweight steel and aluminum tubing, they can be of similar weight to many urban single-speeds. 20 to 28lbs.

Strong alloy wheels in 29”, 27.5” and 26”.

Wide tires for off-road use, roughly 1.95” up to 3.0”. Anything wider is difficult to push with one gear.

A maximum clearance of at least 2.4”. Clearances may reach 3.0”.

Single-speed mountain bikes will probably have bottle cage bosses. They may or may not have mounts and eyelets for fenders and racks.

Drivetrains usually use a chain and may use either a freewheel or a single-speed conversion kit on a freehub.

Many single-speed mountain bikes are run rigid (no suspension fork), to cut weight and maintain simplicity. Other single-speeders do choose to use a suspension fork. Hyper-niche, full-suspension single-speeds are rare.

1.8:1 to 2.0:1 is a common range for new models. ( 32:16 to 32:18 is common).

Brakes are mostly discs. V-brakes and cantilevers are more common on older bikes.

Mountain bikes are heavy and suit trail jaunts , but you can ride single-speed all day if your quads are buff.

These are specialist items. But without incorporating gearing (and often suspension), they can be had for a lot cheaper than a mountain bike of similar quality. Entry-level: $350-$700. Mid-level: $1500-$2000. Belt-drive and full-suspension: $2800 and up.

• Strength and Durability. Tougher than any other single-speed.
• All-Weather Capability is provided by a stable frame and disc brakes.
• Comfort. Laid-back geometry and fat tires for that ‘couchy’ ride.
• Weight. SS mountain bikes can tire the fittest rider. They’re overkill for cities.
• Speed. Fat tires are heavy and slow on-roads.
• Price. Entry-level models are rare. Some specimens are boutique items.
• Versatility. SS MTBs have a defined niche: ‘less-mountainous mountain-biking’.

Single-Speed Cyclocross Bikes

Strong and light.

Off-road, drop-bar racing. Very adaptable to being a road or urban bike.

These bikes are made to be ridden in the drops. Even so, slightly-sloped top-tubes give more standover than a road bike. They are agile.

Weights vary with price, but they can be impressively low while remaining robust. Bikes are for sale from 13lb to 25lb. Cyclocross riders have to occasionally carry their bikes.

High-end Chromoly steel is a favorite. One new, lower-priced model is Scandium with a carbon fork.

Strong alloy wheels in 700c.

700 x 35c is the cyclocross standard. Sometimes 33c.

Tire clearances are usually designed around 35c tires.

Single-speed cyclocross bikes will usually have bottle cage bosses and fender mounts. They may or may not have mounts for racks.

Drivetrains usually use a chain and may use either a freewheel or freehub.

2.3:1 to 2.6:1 is a common range. 42 tooth chainrings are common. Expect: 42:16, 42:17, 42:18.

Cantilever rim brakes and mechanical disc brakes are both popular.

These bikes are built for cyclocross races, but are comfortable to ride over medium to long distances. You may not want to ride shorter distances in the drops.

There’s a wide range of prices. Most bikes fall into the $950 to $1200 range.

• Strength and Durability. These are tough bikes, built well.
• All-Weather Capability. CX bikes want to be ridden through mud and rain.
• Speed. You can tuck in and gun it, down on the drop bars.
• Versatility, as a single-speed long-haul commuter, road bike or gravel bike.
• Weight. Considering their strength, these bikes are lightweight.
• Price. These bikes start in a higher bracket than urban singlespeeds.
• Comfort. They’re a bit racy and many models are fit with drop bars.
• Urban Use. Without flat bars, visibility is reduced in urban settings.
• Security. A flashy bike is more likely to be stolen.

Buying a bike online is a world apart from the experience of choosing a bike from your local bike shop. The benefit of a direct sale from the manufacturer, is that you aren’t paying for the middleman. If you’re buying a bike from an online retailer, they don’t have to pay for the rent of premises and they don’t need to pay an experienced, professional mechanic to assemble and tune your bike. For these reasons, you pay less.

Good online bike retailers will pre-assemble as much as 80% to 95% of your bike before shipping and will provide the tools required for the remaining adjustments.

Your local bike shop (or ‘L.B.S.’) will assemble, tune and fit your bike for you before you ride away. They will usually offer you a warranty deal and a minor servicing for free within the first few weeks of purchase.

Whatever route you choose, there are benefits and drawbacks.

Single-Speeds are simple bikes, so buying one shouldn’t be complicated. There are a lot of manufacturers offering their own models.

At first, the choice can seem overwhelming. But options are easily narrowed down by focusing on your needs, priorities and riding style.

When it comes to single-speeds, a moderate price should buy you a decent bike. In comparison to a geared bike of similar quality, your money goes a lot further. In return, you get a low-maintenance bike that lets you either step up to the next level of fitness or just take it easy.

Choose wisely and ride on!

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Best singlespeed bikes: simplistic fixed gear urban bikes

Our pick of the best singlespeed and fixed gear bikes for urban utility and trendy city cruising

Singlespeeds or fixed gear bikes (fixies), as the names suggest, are bikes with only one gear and a may have a fixed rear wheel — meaning if the wheel is spinning, so are the cranks. These are similar to the bikes you see whizzing around velodromes, and in bike messenger circles they are considered the best road bikes available by virtue of their absolute simplicity.

With the only the bare minimum of moving parts, there is very little that can fail on the best singlespeeds, and by proxy, this means that the bikes don’t require a whole lot of maintenance. Better still, they are vastly less expensive than most other bikes, and riding a fixed-gear bicycle will also do wonders for your pedal stroke too. 

While a few daring riders choose to ride their fixed gears brakeless, this is ill-advised and most likely illegal. In most countries, for a fixed gear bike to be road legal it must have two effective brakes with resisting the cranks on a fixed gear counting as a rear brake. However, laws can vary so it is important to double-check the legal requirements. 

Read on for our favourite singlespeed and fixed gear bikes or head for the bottom of the page for a rundown of what to look for. 

Best singlespeed and fixed gear bikes

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

State Bicycle Core Line

Specifications, reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

State Bicycles overarching mantra is riding bikes because it’s fun. They don’t get hung up on counting grams and the like, and are only concerned with producing quality bikes that will keep spinning for many years to come, and most of all are a blast to ride. 

Priced at a meagre $299, their Core Line of bikes are aimed at those who might be looking to get their first bike for kicking around town but are intimidated by the price tag associated with some other brands. Bikes in this price range are usually of your Walmart or other department store quality, the Core range delivers a quality steel frame, horizontal dropouts with integrated tensioner, and a flip flop fixed/freewheel hub with a 16t cog on both sides — making for a 46x16t gear ratio. State also allows you to customize your build; you can swap the riser bars for a bull horn or drop bar, choose pedals, saddles, and add bottle cages or lights. 

Cinelli Tipo Pista

Cinelli has made quite a name for itself, making high-performance track bikes, and some of the best looking urban fixies on the market. The Tipo Pista is made from Columbus alloy tubing and sees a fork with carbon blades to shed a few grams while also dampening some vibration through the front end. 

Based around a fairly traditional track geometry, which means steep angles and the handling is sharp. Steel inserts in the dropouts mean there is no need for serrated axel nuts, which can chew up the frame. The bike comes with front and rear brakes out of the box, so it's road legal, but these can be easily removed should you want to take a few laps at the velodrome or embrace your inner alley cat. The rear wheel is equipped with a flip flop hub with an 18t single speed and 17t fixed cog, which is paired to a 48t chainring on the front. 

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Pure Cycles Original series

Pure Cycles got its start with single speeds, and their mission was to get more people on bikes by providing affordable, easy to maintain bikes, and that is precisely what the Original Series does. 

With a steel frame, the bike comes with the veritable WTB Thickslick in a 28mm width, meaning this bike is primed for skids. The frame sees provisions for two water bottles and has bosses for fenders and a rear rack. There is a single front brake, and an optional rear brake should you want it. Pure Cycles also sends its bikes out with a flipflop hub; 16t freewheel and 15t fixed pared to a 40t or 43t chainring depending on the size. 

Genesis Flyer

The steel single speed from Genesis is the ongoing evolution of the simple, smooth-riding, comfortable bike. It shares the same tube spec and geometry as the Equiliburim road bike's brands and sees a carbon fork with alloy steerer to shed weight and dampen vibration in the front end. Out of the box, the bike comes with a flip flop fixed/freewheel hub with hill friendly 42x17t gearing. 

The frame sees the classic Campagnolo style forward-facing dropouts for easy wheel changes with mudguards , but the Clement Strada LGG tyres do well to resist punctures meaning it should be a rare occurrence. Genesis has also designed its own XL length chromo plastic mudguards that come stock; the bike also comes with front and rear brakes. 

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Cinelli Tutto Plus

Cinelli’s Tuton Plus is exceptionally versatile in that it’s designed to serve as a commuter, hauler, and CX racer. The Tig welded Columbus Cromor Steel frame has horizontal dropouts but sees 130mm rear hub spacing, and provision for a rear derailleur should you want add gears down the line. The frame itself has room for 45c gravel tyres and even has v-brake studs, meaning it can be a single speed CX racer for the ‘keep cross weird’ crowd.

Cinelli has designed the steel fork with a 45mm rake and a heavy load segmented crown design that allows for a front rack, and there are bosses for fenders and a rear rack. It's a bike that can grow with you and be chopped and changed to adapt to your riding interest

Ribble Urban 725

With a Reynolds 725 steel frame, the Ribble Urban 725 is a pure urban commuter designed around wide tyres to maximize comfort and grip over a broad variety of terrain. With clearance for up to 40c rubber, the bike can be set up on fixed or freewheel. 

Available in three sizes, you can order the bike through Ribble’s Bike Builder, which allows you to tailor the spec further to meet your needs and budget. The geometry calls for a flat bar, but the saddle, gearing and tyres can be chopped and changed based on what you’re looking to get out of the commuter. 

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All-City Super Professional Singlespeed

Featuring All City’s Master Dropout, which uses a thru-axel instead of wheel nuts, the Super Professional Singlespeed can be converted from geared to single speed. Built around the brand’s CX geometry, it can handle anything your commute can through at you, and you can take the fun way home. All-City uses its 612 select proprietary butted steel tubing and sees rack and fender mounts, and even stealth dropper post routing.

There is room between the stays for 700x45c or 650x47mm rubber and has provisions for flat-mount disc brakes. All-City sends the bike out with an FSA Omega MegaExo crank with a 44t chainring, which is paired to an 18t cog at the rear. In typical All-City form, the bike has a show-stopping paint job and the electrophoretic disposition coating, which ensures max paint adhesion and protects against rust. 

Surly Steamroller

Surly's Steamroller frameset is the original fixed/single speed frameset. Released 20 years ago the Steamroller's formula has remained almost unchanged since and continues to be one of the best do-everything urban, gravel, cyclocross single speed bikes available. The geometry employed by Surly is sharp but forgiving and there is clearance for up to 38c tyres, so it’s also great for taking grassy shortcuts, exploring urban singletrack, and racing up back alleys.

Usually sold as a frameset, Surly has opted for cast horizontal track dropouts with 120mm hub spacing, and there are eyelets for a rear fender and a bottle cage on the seat tube. The frame also sees mounts for dual pivot mid-reach brakes front and read, and uses a threaded bottom bracket. 

How to choose a singlespeed bike

1. fixed, freehub, flip flop hubs.

Single speeds come either in fixed or single speed hubs; the latter allows for coasting, while as long as the rear wheel is spinning on a fixed gear, so are the cranks. Transitioning to a fixed gear bike can be a little weird if you’ve never ridden one before, but it offers a unique experience. 

Skilled riders can do epic track stands, skids, and flatland tricks, but for the rest of us, just remember to keep pedalling, because if you stop, you’ll get bucked and end up with a road rash and a bruised ego. 

With no derailleur and a sliding rear dropout, most single speed bikes use standard wheel nuts to secure the rear wheel rather than a quick release or thru-axle, so you’ll want to add a 15mm wrench to your flat tyre kit.

A flip-flop hub is somewhat self-explanatory by name. It features both fixed cog and freewheel technology into a single hub, allowing you to flip between the two without having to own two rear wheels. 

When it comes to single speeds, choosing the right gearing is paramount because you’ll be pushing it up over hills, into headwinds, and over whatever else your ride entails. 

The best way to compare gearing is in gear inches, as it takes into account the gear ratio, wheel size, and tire width. Our good friend, the dearly departed Sheldon Brown has a handy calculator on this website for figuring out gear inches, and there are apps like the Bike Gear Calculator available for iPhone and android that allow you to plug in your dimensions spit out the results. 

For the purposes of commuting, aim for about 70 gear inches, a bit less if you live somewhere hilly, a bit more if you local is pancake flat. 

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Based on the Gold Coast of Australia, Colin has written tech content for cycling publication for a decade. With hundreds of buyer's guides, reviews and how-tos published in Bike Radar, Cyclingnews, Bike Perfect and Cycling Weekly, as well as in numerous publications dedicated to his other passion, skiing. 

Colin was a key contributor to Cyclingnews between 2019 and 2021, during which time he helped build the site's tech coverage from the ground up. Nowadays he works full-time as the news and content editor of Flow MTB magazine. 

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Best single speed and fixed gear bikes 2024

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A single speed bike does exactly what it says on the can: it's a bike with just one gear. It still has a front and a back brake like any other bike but just fewer gears. And by fewer we mean just one solitary gear.

Riding at its most simplified form is riding a bike with just one gear. That's what the first Tour de France riders did in 1903 and what people still do today whether they are riding to work on a single speed bike or blitzing round a velodrome on a fixed gear bike.

Our guide will clarify what it means to ride a fixie or single speed and offer the best single speed and fixed gear bikes on the market.

Best single speed bikes

You can trust Cycling Weekly. Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

Not usually built for racing, these bikes sometimes house mudguard (fenders in the US) and pannier mounts making them ideal commuting bikes .

The lack of cassette, derailleur and cables means that the need for maintenance and cleaning is low. Turning one gear also helps you to learn to use your cadence to moderate your effort and speed - something that's easy to forget when always riding a geared bike. For these reasons, some riders choose a single speed as a winter bike.

Some single speed bikes come with a 'flip flop' hub - that means the hub is double-sided. Swapping between the two allows the rider to choose between a freewheeled single speed, and a fixed gear (explained below).

With each product is a ‘Buy Now’ or ‘Best Deal’ link. If you click on this then we may receive a small amount of money from the retailer when you purchase the item. This doesn’t affect the amount you pay

Steed Thoroughbred singlespeed bike

Our expert review:

Reasons to buy

Reasons to avoid.

From the classic geometry to the powder-coated steel frame, the Steed Thoroughbred has a timeless, honest beauty about it.

The frame includes bosses for two bottle cages, mudguards and a rear rack. It's a unisex frame which caters for heights from 5ft 0in to 6ft 5in across three sizes.

There are four colours to choose from and it comes as standard with a 44-tooth chainring paired with an 18-tooth rear sprocket, which is a fair choice for a bike meant for general town riding.

The Steed feels sturdy, planted and above all reliable. The ‘feel of steel’ needs no introduction to the majority of experienced riders. However, if this is to be your first steel-framed venture then we can assure you that the ride quality is both compliant and responsive. 

It comes with everything the city-dwelling commuter needs straight out of the box and if you want to make spec changes such as swapping in drop handlebars/alternative rear sprocket etc then that can all be easily done. 

A truly beautiful, comfortable and versatile frame which could last you a lifetime - and indeed it comes with a lifetime guarantee.

Read more: Steed Thoroughbred full review

State Bicycle Core-Line singlespeed bike

There are three bikes in the Core-Line range, Rigby, Wulf (Matte Black) and Pigeon (high gloss 'asphalt' grey), all of which keep the same steel frame and flip-flop hub for either freewheel or fixed geared riding.

The range was developed to break down barriers to bike ownership, and has been built with a price point in mind. Standing out is the pretty big 44/16t gearing, which works out at nearly 73inch, so you might want to consider a bigger sprocket and longer chain if your rides contain hills.

That said, the range has a lot of fans and almost a cult-like following, which can make it tricky to get hold of at times, and with a five-year manufacturer warranty, it's an impressive and attractive bike offering.

Retrospec Mantra Fixed-Gear / Single-Speed Bike

As an entry-level bike, Retrospec's Mantra offers plenty of value for money. It features a durable steel frame with horizontal track dropouts complete with built-in chain tensioners. The frame also includes mounts for mudguards/fenders, a rear rack and two bottle cages, making it a commute-worthy option.

Elsewhere, this flat-bar bike comes with a flip-flop hub so you can switch between single-speed and fixed if you wish. As stock it comes with a 46t chainring and a 16t freewheel sprocket. Other specifications include caliper rim brakes and 28mm Kenda commuter tires. The Mantra comes in a range of colors include matte black and a matte olive drab.

FabricBike Light singlespeed bike

Coming with a flip-flop hub, the FabricBike Light allows you to choose between at 16T single speed or fixed gear. The aluminum frameset has been designed to combine both aerodynamics and comfort with deep section 43mm wheels a 25c Kenda tires.

The lightweight aspect comes from its claimed frameset weight of just 2.45kg / 5.04lbs, and a total bike weight of just 9.45kg / 20.83lbs for a size medium, and is a few pounds lighter than other options on the market.

The bullhorn handlebars are a great option for getting low and aero, as well as having something to pull on for the climbs. On a route with frequent turns, though, these handlebars are less good. Thus, the FabricLight is ideal for longer distances, when you want to cover ground swiftly, but probably not one for inner-city riding.

Available in four colors, including a polished and clear lacquer version.

Creme Vinyl Uno single speed bike

The Dutch brand has been designing city bikes for just over ten years, with the Vinyl Uno one of its single speed offerings.

A steel frame and fork is paired with rim brakes, a riser flat bar and a 46/17T flip flop gear. As with the State Bicycle Core-Line bike above, this is pretty big, so worth adding a bigger sprocket and longer chain to the shopping basket if you're planning to ride somewhere with a few hills.

Fuji Feather 2020 single speed bike

A lovely looking bike from Fuji, the Feather is available in black, as above, or white, with eye-catching hot pink decals, and a bike perfect for those pining for a blend of retro and modern. The Chromoly steel frame and fork means the bike should be hardy but also comfortable to ride.

With removable cable guides and a flip flop hub fitted with a 16T cog and freewheel at the rear you could even take it to the track for a fixed wheel spin, or keep it single speed with brakes for the road.

The dropped keirin-style handlebars and geometry make this a great option for nimble city riding, but with no fender mounts, it's probably best for dry days only.

Octane One Kode Commuter single speed bike

The steel frame and fork comes with plenty of bottle, fender and pannier mounts making it a great option for daily riding in all weather.

The mechanical disc brakes are a great addition to this single speed, which also comes with a flipflop 14t hub, enabling you to ride fixed gear too. With rugged 40c Kenda Kwik tires and the ability to switch to a drivetrain (purchased separately), it's a pretty versatile offering.

A good all-rounder, but you might want to swap the gearing if you're planning on more than just flat rides.

Genesis Day One 10 single speed bike

Aimed at the urban commuter, the Genesis Day One 10 is a great all-rounder with its mechanical disk brakes, 35c tires, full-length mudguards, and mounts for panniers.

The 42T chainring and 17T sprocket single speed (67-inch) is a great gear for balancing speed and climbs, meaning even if you don't live and commute to the flattest areas, you should be able to ride rather than walk the climbs.

With added reflective decals, the Cromoly (steel) frame and fork should offer great durability, making this a perfect long term workhorse.

Genesis Flyer

Sharing the same tubing spec and geometry as the Genesis Equilibrium, the Flyer is aimed at all-season riding, with the benefits of a cadence-friendly 42/17t combo and a flip-flop hub for both freewheel and fixed riding, so great for both undulating and flatter riding.

The Cromoly (Steel) frame and carbon fork set come with ProMax rim brakes and custom extra-long Chromplastic mudguards to provide plenty of protection in wet weather. A great low-maintenance, ride-ready straight out of the box option.

Best fixed gear bikes

A fixed gear bike, or fixie, is exactly like a single speed bike in that it has only one gear. So what makes a fixed gear bike different? As the name suggests, the drive train is 'fixed' meaning there is no ability to coast as the cranks turn as the bike moves, regardless of whether you are pedaling or not.

Usually reserved for the velodrome, track and fixed gear bikes have seen a resurgence in urban riding for their mechanical simplicity thanks to a bike courier cult following. They're also used in the growing discipline that is fixed gear crit racing, most popular of which is the Red Hook series.

If you're riding on the road, it is important to remember in most places that it's a legal requirement that you fit a working front break to your machine.

Cinelli Tipo Pista Track fixed gear bike

With brakes onboard, the Cinelli Tips Pista track bike allows you to take fixed gear riding out of the velodrome and crit races and onto the streets.

An aluminum frame and carbon fork help keep the bike down to a claimed 7.8kg / 17.37, which is impressively about 3kg / 6.6 lbs lighter than most of the single speed bikes at this price point.

Caliper rim brakes front and rear are easily removable thanks to external cable routing, allowing you to go straight from work to the track without any problems.

Dolan FXE Aluminium Fixie bike

Looking for a fixie that will serve you well during the gruesome winter months ? Dolan's FXE is the ideal year-round solution to urban mobility with its compatibility for front and rear mudguards.

It has a lightweight aluminum frame weighing 1.78kg / 3.92lbs (54cm frame) and a sloping top tube for added stiffness, paired with a carbon front fork.

The finished build is customizable on Dolan's bike builder, which means you can choose the optimal handlebar width and stem length for a perfect fit. For a personalized touch that will stand out against the sleek black frame and components, you can also choose your favorite Deda handlebar color.

Mango Original single speed

Mango bikes are all about bold, fun colors and this stylish customizable look comes at a reasonable price too. There are eight to nine color options across every single component to allow you to build your perfect bespoke fixie bike.

With a flip flop rear hub, if it turns out fixed riding isn't for you, it is easy to swap to freewheel riding so you can coast along the road. Fitted with 46/18 gearing, accelerating with ease and finding top speed is both possible on this stiff steel-framed fixie. There are also three handlebar options on offer, to suit your riding style: risers, bullhorns and drop bars.

Choosing a gear for your single speed or fixed gear bike

Since you've only got one gear, it's pretty important that it's the right one. Too much resistance, and you'll come to a stop at every hill. Choose too little, and you'll be spinning your legs like a hamster in a ball.

The gear is created by the ratio between the front and rear chainring, measured in inches. The ideal gear varies a lot between riders. For commuters, often something in the region of 65 to 75 inches is about right. Track riders will go for a much higher gear, since the hills they have to climb are the banked corners.

Here's a look at the gear ratios you'd get with various chainring and rear cog combinations. A wider tire will very slightly increase the gear inches and vice versa:

Things to remember when riding fixed gear

• Be sure to practice on a quiet road if it's your first time riding a fixed gear bike or, better yet, take to your local velodrome. They are usually filled with classes for beginners and have a great sense of community for fixed gear riders.
• Both single speed bikes and fixed gear bikes use nuts to secure their wheels. Unlike road bikes and their quick-release skewers, you will need to carry a small wrench of some kind to be able to fix any punctures.
• If you're riding on the road, you must have a working front brake
• Finally, if you're riding fixed, DON'T forget to pedal. Otherwise you may find your bike doing its best bucking bronco impersonation.

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Trek Superfly SS review

Affordable singlespeed XC racer

Josh Patterson / Immediate Media

Josh Patterson

The Trek Superfly SS is quite the rig. Yes, that was a pun, and yes, it was intended. You see, this bike has a legacy stretching back a decade to the introduction to the introduction of the Gary Fisher Rig for the 2005 model year.

A lot has changed since then – the Fisher brand was assimilated into Trek, 29er geometry finally got sorted out, and 26in vs 29in disputes have been replaced by 27.5in vs 29in arguments. What hasn’t changed is the fact that big wheels and singlespeed drivetrains go together like peanut butter and jelly (with apologies to UK readers). The purple accents on the matte-black frame may hearken back to the original Rig, but the Superfly SS is thoroughly modern machine.

• Highs: Clean lines; good geometry; clever sliding thru-axle design
• Lows: Abysmally narrow handlebar
• Buy if: You’re looking to simplify your life and strengthen your quads

Frame and equipment: simple and straightforward

Starting at the front, the Superfly SS sports Bontrager’s new Bowie carbon fork. The stock fork has an alloy steerer to keep the price in check, though the US$450 aftermarket Bowie Pro version sports a tapered carbon steerer. Much like carbon forks offered by Niner and Enve, the Bowie features a 15mm thru axle. It also has integrated guides for the front brake and enough clearance for 29+ rubber, should you feel the need to beef up the volume to take the edge off the Superfly’s rigid ride.

The Superfly SS frame is essentially the same alloy chassis as Trek’s geared Superfly hardtails, minus the cable stops and ports for internal routing. The tubing is heavily shaped, particularly around the press-fit BB95 bottom bracket.

Unlike the other members of the Superfly line, the Superfly SS sports a clever sliding 142x12mm axle system. At first glance, the rear brake mount appears to be attached to the chainstay. Closer inspection reveals that it’s actually part of the sliding assembly, so there’s never a need to realign the caliper after removing the wheel or tensioning the chain.

The Race Face narrow/wide chainring might be overkill for singlespeeding, but it sure is pretty

A singlespeed with a properly tensioned chain doesn’t have a need for the stock, 32t Race Face narrow/wide chainring, although the color-matched ring is a nice touch that’s sure to win the hearts and minds of matchy-matchy types. Race Face also supplies the crankset, which is appropriately stiff for single-minded mashing.

While superfluous for singelspeed drivetrains, this narrow/wide chainring might come in handy if you decide to run the Superfly SS with a 1x drivetrain. Trek offers a geared, drive-side slider for the Superfly SS, although the absence of cable guides would require resorting to zip-ties to route full-length shift housing along the frame.

The Shimano Deore disc brakes are outstanding for the price — they truly buck the law of diminishing returns with exceptional modulation that would give top-end brakes from a few short years ago a run for their money.

Shimano's Deore brakes back plenty of power in a budget-minded package

The stock stamped 18t steel cog is a bit of a throwaway item, but that’s fine, considering the fact that cogs wear out and many riders will swap it for a different tooth count to suit their local trails. The Bontrager Mustang rim and fast-rolling XR2 Expert are both tubeless compatible, so you can shave a bit more weight off this 20.4lb/9.3kg bike, if you’re so inclined.

The parts kit is quite reasonable for the money. The only item we took issue with was the aluminum Bontrager RL handlebar, which measures in at a scanty 690mm. While this handlebar would have been considered wide once upon a time, it’s much too narrow for modern taste; fitting a wider one, which you can always cut down would have made more sense.

The ride: fast, nimble and quiet

On the trail the Superfly SS is a nimble beast. The Bowie fork is as forgiving as one would expect two sticks of carbon to be, which is to say: if you wanted a forgiving ride, you’d be riding a suspension fork.

Rigid singlespeeding does have its merits. The Superfly SS tracks with precision and there’s no bobbing from the front end when it comes time to stand and mash up the climbs.

Trek's 142x12mm sliding thru-axle system is slip-free and silent

Singlespeeds need leverage, though, and the narrow bar left us lacking it when grunting up those steep climbs. Nor did it inspire much confidence when attempting to keep the front end tracking true through rock gardens. This tester would have preferred something in range of 750mm.

The sliders are the stand-out feature of the Superfly SS frame – and one you'll appreciate in use. Unlike many eccentric bottom brackets, which are prone to creaking and groaning under torque, Trek’s cleverly designed sliders proved quiet and easy enough to adjust.

Verdict: less is more – provided your body can take it

Despite misgivings about the stock handlebar, the Superfly SS is a good choice for riders looking to simplify their stable. And if you feel the SS will write checks that your quads just can’t cash, you may want to consider the Superfly 5. It retails for the same price and comes with a suspension fork and 2x10 drivetrain.

The Superfly SS is not currently available in the UK. As and when this changes we'll be sure to let you know

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Review: Trek Marlin singlespeed

By David Alden-St. Pierre

My first, second, and third singlespeed mountain bikes were Gary Fishers (two Rigs and a Superfly), so I was very curious as to how Trek ’s latest entry-level singlespeed 29er, the Marlin, would stack up against those more expensive models.

The build was a bit of a walk down memory lane, as I haven’t built a bike with a square-taper bottom bracket, or the old standard 25.4mm diameter handlebar, in quite a while. As expected, the components are mostly Bontrager with a mix of Truvativ, Formula, Tektro, and Suntour.

Once assembled, my first impression was “wow, this bike is heavy.” The 21-inch bike weighed just over 31 lbs. That’s much heavier than my personal ride, but at this price, I really can’t complain. Concessions have to be made to keep costs low, and the true test would be in how the bike handled on the trails.

On the trail the Marlin’s ride felt much like the Rigs I had owned. The Marlin uses Fisher’s 29er G2 geometry, which moves the rider’s position back slightly, with a longer top tube, shorter stem, and more fork offset. The frame is aluminum, and it’s appropriately stiff without being punishing, and overall, provides a balanced ride.

I was impressed by Trek’s new sliding dropout configuration. The non-driveside has set screws to keep the wheel from moving both forward (from chain pull) and backward (from braking forces). This is an improvement over the previous design, which, unfortunately, often loosened from pedaling and braking forces. Up front, a SR Suntour XCM suspension fork provides 100mm of travel.

Despite the weight (6 lbs.), the fork actually worked well. It smoothed out the trail chatter. The lockout is a great feature, especially on a singlespeed. The coil-sprung fork has preload adjustment but lacks rebound adjustment. The “clunk” heard on rebound was, well, clunky. Considering the fact that many mid-price 29er forks cost more than this complete bike, I can’t criticize the fork much for its lack of features. More tune-ability would be nice, but I was able to set the preload to a point that worked for me, and the rebound speed was acceptable.

Overall, the Marlin performed admirably on everything you’d expect to encounter as on a cross country ride. My first Rig got me hooked on singlespeeds and 29ers because I felt that the bike did a good job of making the inherently stable larger wheels feel fairly nimble. I feel the Marlin performs just as well climbing, cornering, and descending.

I could bitch more about the weight, but the bike retails for under $700. I think it rode as well as bike costing much more. I did a virtual comparison of other entry-level singlespeeds; the Marlin has disc brakes and a suspension fork, which I could not find elsewhere at this price.

It’s not a race bike, nor is it a weapon for all-day epic mountain assaults, but it’s perfect for having fun on the your local trails. The Marlin Singlespeed proves that you can still have a great ride without spending tons of cash.

• Price: $649
• Weight: 31.2 lbs.
• Sizes Available: 15.5, 17.5, 19, 21 (tested), 23”
• Country of Origin: China

Tester stats

• Height: 6’2”
• Weight: 205 lbs.
• Inseam: 34”

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This review originally appreared in Dirt Rag Issue #162. You can purchase a copy of that issue in our online store, or order a subscription  for just $19.95 and you’ll get all our reviews delivered right to your door. 

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The Best Single-Speed Bikes for Every Rider

Single-speed bikes have recently enjoyed a comeback in popularity due to their straightforward aesthetics, ease of use and relative lack of maintenance. Although not ideal for hilly areas, single speeds are excellent for urban riders because of their simplicity: they have no derailleur, no gears, and with fixed-gear bikes, no freewheel mechanism (the thing device allows riders to coast, leaving them to use their legs to slow down in tandem with a front brake — some daring types run no brakes at all, using only their leg power to stop the bike).

By Evan Murphy

11 original photos

Single-speed bikes have recently enjoyed a comeback in popularity due to their straightforward aesthetics, ease of use and relative lack of maintenance. Although not ideal for hilly areas, single speeds are excellent for urban riders because of their simplicity: they have no derailleur, no gears, and with fixed-gear bikes, no freewheel mechanism (the device that allows riders to coast, leaving them to use their legs to slow down in tandem with a front brake — some daring types run no brakes at all, using only their leg power to stop the bike).

With the warm weather upon us and more people than ever hitting the streets for their commute to work — or the bar — it’s about time you got in on the action. Here are our 10 favorites. We’ve left no gear unturned, including everything from the most hardcore, feature-laden commuter to the most bare-bones fixed-gear track bike.

BETTER CYCLING: Best Mountain Bikes | Best Road Bikes | Best Triathlon Bikes

Best bike with a bottle opener in the seat: This bike is popular in NYC, largely because it’s a great deal (and, you know, the bottle opener). In essence, the SE Draft is a stripped-down track bike with a coaster brake installed. Simply move the pedals backward to activate the in-hub braking system on this spare, BMX-inspired rig. A steel frame is heavy but durable, and cruiser bars and saddle mean a bump in comfort. That extra weight doesn’t do it any favors as a commuter, but a great price and a simply cool look make it one you’ll want to lock up.

Fuji Track Classic

Best budget single-speed: The Fuji Track Classic is what you would call your bargain single-speed bike. It’s relatively durable and functional for short trips and even slightly fashionable. It comes in a couple cool colors and has the ability to switch the rear wheel from a fixed-gear to a single-speed depending on your riding preference. The Fuji is an all-around good value; the downside is that it’s a mass-produced bike. So if finding a unique ride is your thing, you’re going to have to start swapping parts or adding stickers to make it anything out of the ordinary.

Worksman LGB

Best made-in-Queens single-speed: The last of a dying breed of American factories, Worksman Cycles’ bikes are built to last and hand-made in Queens. Although they offer several variations of models, our pick is the front loader Low Gravity Bike, or LGB. With a built-in front rack and a coaster brake, it doesn’t require much thought to operate — but the best part of this bike is a front wheel that’s smaller in diameter than the back one. This allows the center of gravity of whatever goods your carrying to be lower, and thus more stable; it also allows the handlebars to turn independently of the basket. For anyone who’s constantly loading up their backpack with cool, cheaply bought stuff, this feature is prime. Of course, they’re a little on the heavy side, but for a made-in-the-USA product they are very affordable — and with no embellishments or fancy parts, there are fewer worries about locking up when you’re out and about.

Weirdest single-speed: The Strida is a single speed we’ve always wanted but that won’t be for everyone (it looks a bit like a walker-bike hybrid). It was made for over two decades in the UK, but the company is now located in Taiwan; this has brought down price but it doesn’t seem their build quality has degraded. So what makes it a rad bike? There are no corrosion-susceptible parts and it’s extremely small and fold-able. Although it’s not meant for use over five miles, it’s perfect for almost any city riding. A belt drive means you won’t get grease on your pants and the tires are the only part you’ll ever have to replace. The Strida will also turn some heads and makes a great conversation starter — perfect for when you bring it to a friend’s house party on a hot summer night.

Bowery Lane Broncks

Best Dutch-style commuter: Dutch-style commuter bicycles are making a wave in New York City. The Broncks model from Bowery Lane Bicycles is made in the United States by hand and flouts some added flair and small details (leather saddle, cork grips and a hand-made wooden crate) that really make it unique. While other Dutch bikes might be lighter or slightly more affordable, getting a bike of this quality — built in Brooklyn — for a few hundred bucks under a grand is a steal. The head badge alone will spark plenty of conversations.

[Note: the bike pictured above is the Bare Bones model and retails for $500.]

Surly Steamroller

The workhorse: Surly bicycles has long been a proponent of the single-speed movement, prioritizing simplicity over anything else. The Steamroller is their take on the single speed, a bare-bones, no frills, 4130 chromoly workhorse that will never let you down. I know guys who’ve ridden their steamrollers every day for longer than I’ve been riding bikes at all. Since it comes complete with a decent lineup of components, or as a frameset, you can either start riding today or have your local bike shop build you up something tailored to your likes.

Cinelli Mash Histogram

Best for serious riders: What started as a bunch of messengers in San Francisco bombing hills has turned into a worldwide movement of athletes taking fixed gear track bikes to the streets and pushing them to their limits. The Cinelli Mash Histogram frame is the embodiment of this unique urban sport subculture. Although technically a track bike, and thus a fixed-gear, the frame still has enough versatility to allow a single-speed setup with brakes. The bottom line: this bike, in either high- or mid-range build, is meant for speed. We only recommend it to those who enjoy bombing down their favorite bike lane to work or really make an extreme sport of barhopping.

Trek District

Best single-speed from a big manufacturer: Large manufacturers don’t always get it right, but Trek really hit the nail on the head with the District. Though not exactly affordable, it’s filled out with everything you need and nothing you don’t. It’s got a reasonable upright geometry, nice components, fender and rack mounts galore — and best of all, a carbon belt drive, which means no grease and no maintenance. It’s also backed by Trek, so you know you’re getting a reliable bicycle from a major manufacturer.

Ahearne Cycles

Best custom-built bike: Those riders who like to take their gear to the next level will be primed for any of the custom bikes from Ahearne Cycles in Portland, OR. They’ll build a tailor-made ride for you based on body measurements, riding style, accessory needs and aesthetic preferences. Want options for fenders on a rainy day? You got it. Want a built-in rack with a paint job inspired by your favorite pizza toppings? No problem, but it’s going to cost you. If you’re in the market, though, the price you pay is well worth it: you’ll get exactly the bike you want and a relationship with the maker who built it for you.

Brompton S1E-X

Best folding bike: Many people don’t consider folding bikes when shopping for single speeds. This is a mistake. Brompton cycles makes the best folding bikes on the market, and their S1E-X fulfills the single-speed niche. It has guaranteed construction from their UK factory and folds up so small so quickly you won’t believe that you ever owned a bike that didn’t. Taking it to dinner or easily stowing away in a car a perfectly reasonable activity. Some owners even take their Bromptons into the subway during rush hour. Although costly, you get what you pay for, and we’ve never heard a Brompton owner complain of component failure or frame issues. The small wheel size means you’re not gonna want to travel long distances, but for city riders it’s perfect, especially if you have a small apartment or or an office with limited storage space.

Evan Murphy lives on the edges of Williamsburg in New York City and works for the artist Tom Sachs in Chinatown. He commutes every day by bicycle. On nights and weekends he races locally and nationally for CRCA/Foundation on the road, NYC Velo for cyclocross, and races the Red Hook Crit aboard a Stanridge Speed track bike.

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Trek’s Belt-Driven Single Speed

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Mix a carbon-frame road bike driven by a carbon-composite belt and you end up with a super quiet, super light single-speed bike. You also get Trek’s unique and drool-worthy District Carbon.

Weighing 20 pounds, and costing $3,360, the District Carbon is one of only a few belt-driven bikes in Trek’s fleet. Not to mention one of the coolest-looking single-speeds on the market.

While 20 pounds is heavier than I expected from a carbon single-speed, according to Trek, the bike wasn’t produced with its lightest components for a reason: to let the consumer upgrade if he or she wants. That way the price — still quite high at $3,360 — doesn’t go through the proverbial ceiling, Trek said.

Trek hit the belt-drive market relatively early compared to many other major manufacturers. Its high-end carbon bike — built with Trek’s “Optimum Compaction” low void carbon — is based off of the company’s high-end road bike, the Madone.

The carbon fiber is heat- and pressure-treated in a way to increase strength and decrease microscopic gaps between carbon layers, the company says.

The Trek District Carbon, which comes in 50, 54, 56, 58 and 60cm frame sizes, is currently available. With primarily Bontreger components, a nearly all-black stealthy look, and an almost maintenance-free belt drive, the bike is bound to make eyes blur. www.trekbikes.com

—Ryan Dionne

Stephen Regenold is the founder of GearJunkie, which he launched as a nationally syndicated newspaper column in 2002. As a journalist, writer, and gear nerd, Regenold has covered the outdoors industry for over two decades, including as a correspondent for the New York Times. A father of five, Regenold and his wife, Tara, live in Minneapolis.

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Trek District belt drive review – urban style!

Posted by Matt | April 23, 2013 | 55 comments so far

Trek District 1 singlespeed belt drive

It’s been a long time since I’ve invoked the Second Law of Cycling by indulging in a complete new bike. I have bikes of course; several of them in fact, with a disappointing number languishing in need of various key parts to get them mobile. Most recently my Five has required some major surgery, of which more soon, but this review is about something completely different.

It’s a bike, yes, but not exactly what most of us would understand by that phrase. People, I give you the Trek District belt drive urban singlespeed.

I know what you’re thinking; well maybe not exactly what some of you are thinking but enough to generalise in a pointless act of socio-demographic labelling. I’m thinking that you’re thinking what the hell has a belt drive urban singlespeed runabout got to do with a website whose modus operandi is mountain bikes? Actualy, quite a lot really.

First of all, it’s a bike, and in my world – and in strict accordance with the Second Law of Cycling mentioned above – that’s a good thing. Secondly, this has ticked a few of the boxes that have been growing on my wish list of interesting bike-related things.

Of these, the fact it is the perfect bike to move me stylishly from home to coffee house* and back again is by no means the least of them. I also liked the idea of a flat bar road bike, I enjoy singlespeeding and that belt drive is just plain intriguing isn’t it?

Oh and another thing. It was ridiculously cheap!

So what we’re looking at here then is a Trek District 2012 model. In other markets that can be found as the District 1 I think, although the District range currently covers three models that include a belt drive singlespeed, a ‘normal’ singlespeed and a 1×9 option. It has to be said the range has also taken on a more muted and less retro look as well and has also lost the carbon fork that this version is discreetly equipped with.

The 2012 model that I have is finished in a lovely steel (Neptune) blue with cream detailing that adds a real 50’s vibe – a modern 50’s vibe (as Dave commented) – and which really was a big factor in my going for it. It’s a great looking bike and quite a head turner where I live, especially if you are indiscrete enough to team it with lycra. That doesn’t really work.

What does work is some of the new technical cycle clothing that also manages to look like ‘normal’ casual clothes. Cycle-specific skinny jeans, sneakers with SPDs, and merino-based T’s are perfect for this bike and something I’m working on! Three-quarter length mtb baggies would also look fine with summer coming on I guess.

The cream extends to the wheel rims which are rather odd, quite deep sectioned (hinting in passing at aero qualities) but with heavy straight gauge spokes that speak more precisely of the strength planned-in to cope with rough urban roads.

Teamed with a set of puncture protected Bontrager 25mm Race Lite tyres the ride is smooth and extremely comfortable. And those potentially heavy rims don’t harm things too much with the overall weight of the bike as supplied (complete with metal cage pedals) coming in at 20.88lbs. That’s pretty light isn’t it, without getting silly?

As I’ve said this bike is surprisingly comfortable.

I have the 56cm and was blessed to find it essentially fitted me straight away. I bought from Cyclesurgery using their click and collect scheme which although slow (delivery to store was nearly two weeks!) meant that the bike was fully assembled when I picked it up. My only adjustment was to alter the angle of the handlebars from a slightly drooping moustache bar position to more of a horizontal plane. This helped get a nice backsweep on what are reasonably narrow bars and lengthened the reach slightly.

If you are used to tweaking bikes you’ll know that’s pretty minimal as there’s a whole raft of things you could do to alter the riding position, but for me it was basically just right out of the box. The riding position is quite upright which gives a great view of the road ahead while the backsweep on the bars allows a good pull when cranking out of the saddle, something you do a fair bit on a siglespeed if an incline is involved.

The bike itself is extremely nimble, probably as a result of those narrowish bars which speed up the steering, yet it feels very secure chucking it into a corner. I wouldn’t race on it – it’s not that kind of bike – but for sweeping round turns and making smooth progress it works well. And that’s urban riding in a nutshell.

So the geometry seems to be well chosen for the kind of riding it’s intended for (72.5° head angle and 73.5° seat tube with 45mm of fork offset). What’s also interesting is the frame, which is made from Trek’s Alpha aluminium, while the fork is a nice carbon effort that surely contributes to the great ride.

The frame has pretty large and visible welds but these are painted and therefore less obtrusive. It uses an unusual solid yolk for the seat stays and lots of box section tubing that ovalises just where it needs to be. In short it’s a competent but budget frame that has one surprise up it’s sleeve. The driveside seatstay can be unbolted and a small slug removed to let the belt for the belt drive slip through. This is rather important since in normal use you can’t split the belt!

Ah yes the belt drive. I’ve said before how much I’d like to try one but this was in relation to the Gates belt drives on Spot mountain bikes . Actually it turns out that a belt makes a lot of sense on a commuter, urban runabout bike.

For a start, it’s rated for 10,000 miles which is a lot more than I’ll do in a hurry. Secondly, no oil. This is a biggy for me as combined with the belt guard it means I can get on it and not worry about trousers or laces getting mucky or enmeshed in the inner workings of the drivetrain. So it scores for convenience there. Finally – and no review of this bike would be complete without mentioning it – there’s the stealth factor. This is one quiet bike, even over rough surfaces. No rattle, no chain noise, not even a clicking freehub as this is blessed with one that’s near silent. It’s a joy to ride and the only thing that I can think of when I’m on it is Mazda’s zoom-zoom advert ‘cos it makes me want to zoom-zoom!

Overall then I’m pretty happy. This bike is cheap, is well thought out for it’s intended purpose and takes the rough of the road in it’s stride. It’s comfortable, steers well and hopefully with the belt drive will prove reliable.

That’s an unknown at this stage and the grumblenet has a few reports of problems but I feel confident enough with it. If the worst happens and I’m not happy then my positive comments about the great handling, the comfortable ride and the near silence will apply just as much to a bike with a chain drive.

See you on the trails (and perhaps on the streets!)

*coffee house – it’s a broad and optimistic term Paul!

Filed under Bikes , Reviews in April 2013

About the author

Matt is one of the founding Molefathers of the Muddymoles, and is the designer and main administrator of the website.

Having ridden a 2007 Orange Five for many years then a 2016 YT Industries Jeffsy 29er, he now rocks a Bird Aether 9 and a Pace RC-627.

An early On-One Inbred still lurks in the back of the stable as a reminder of how things have moved on. You can even find him on road bikes - currently a 2019 Cannondale Topstone 105 SE, a much-used 2011 Specialized Secteur and very niche belt drive Trek District 1.

If you've ever wondered how we got into mountain biking and how the MuddyMoles started, well wonder no more .

There are 55 comments on ‘Trek District belt drive review – urban style!’

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Elliot says:

I’ve always liked the idea of those and that’s a cracking deal. Is there a break-in period with the belt? Seemed like new belt equipped bikes at shops/shows have a bit of resistance/drag.

Add a new comment , or reply to this comment

Posted on April 24, 2013 at 12:30 am

Hi Elliott, I haven’t really noticed drag from the belt, no sounds of rubbing or heaviness to the pedaling (aside from it being a 55:22 gear!). I suspect it’s higher than with a chain but the silence and cleanliness are big positives in this situation.

If it started squeaking I’d rapidly fall out of love with it I think. You could probably put a chain drive on there though and those stealth/retro/comfort/handling attributes would remain.

In terms of a break in period, so far it’s running well but I’m keeping an eye on the belt tension and wondering if perhaps there’s a tiny bit more of it than was there originally. It’s easy enough to tension it though, just like a normal singlespeed really.

Posted on April 24, 2013 at 8:14 am

Markymark says:

Nice addition to your bike quiver Matt! Great time to get it as we de-kit and slip into Spring/Summer mode.

It’ll be a tasty cruiser and a good reason not to Strava everything and just enjoy the glide…. whooosh.

Posted on April 24, 2013 at 12:05 pm

paul901 says:

In truth I didn’t really take much notice of it at first Matt except for the styling which is neat and evokes same-era retro thoughts of my Parker 100 fountain pen. However, when I started to think about the Specialised Globe Sport I have owned for about 5 years as my runabout but detest hence it gets no riding at all, it made me think I should try your Trek.

By the way I make your gearing 67.5 (55 x 27 / 22). Some equivalents to put it in perspective would be:

32 x 13 (64.0) or 44 x 17 (67.3) in mountain biking terms,

34 x 11 (65.6) or 50 x 21 (64.3) for roadies using compacts

39 x 16 (65.8) or 52 x 21 (66.9) or 53 x 21 (68.1) for full road chainsets.

Posted on April 24, 2013 at 4:33 pm

Welcome to try the bike sometime Paul, not sure if it would be your cup of tea coffee or not but only one way to find out…

Posted on April 25, 2013 at 8:36 am

DaveW says:

I like it – well done on getting stuck into the belt drive niche before a certain Dave ;o)

The gearing seems to be on the comfortable side. As I understand it popular opinion considers the sweet-spot for road single speed / fixed gearing in the London area to be 70 gear inches. I run mine slightly higher than that, but I think 67.5 seems to suit the sporty but not full on nature of the bike.

Posted on April 24, 2013 at 9:28 pm

Hi Dave, depends what you call comfortable and where you’re riding!

A 70/71 inch gear equivalent for a chain drive would be 42:16 – the belt drive has a higher number of teeth as the belt doesn’t bend as much as a chain can. Assuming 22 is the minimum at the back, that means I’d need to have ‘chainring’ of about 58 to get that kind of gear!

67.5 gear inches on this is pretty good, in practice 18-19mph is a fast spin, anything above 20mph and things get pretty frenetic as I found out last night on our 28 mile road ride round Wisley! You can just about hold 22-23mph for short periods if you can spin smoothly.

At cruising speeds of 16-17mph you get to feel nicely on top of the gear, so relaxed progress is quite easy to come by. I felt I’d had a good workout after 28 miles and 1 and three quarter hours of spinning at a 17mph average though!

So much to gentle rides lads…

Posted on April 25, 2013 at 8:34 am

I blame MuddyDave for the average speed. He was on something! 😉

Posted on April 25, 2013 at 9:09 am

Yeah, sorry about that, I just rode the way I felt! If it’s any consulation my quads hurt today!

Posted on April 25, 2013 at 9:36 am

Incidentally Matt, I see this bike has been given “4 moles”. What would make it a 5? Might be worth adding it into articles if they reach further than one might expect.

Posted on April 25, 2013 at 6:21 am

Sure is a smooth looking coffee shop cruiser Matt but you demonstrated on Weds nights road spin that it can go quickly if you are prepared to spin your legs off! 🙂

Riding next to it there is noticeably very little noise from any part of the bike and I have to say it looks very comfy even down to the slightly bent Carnegie type bars. (MuddyDave will jump in here and correct me as to the bars true category no doubt)

Posted on April 26, 2013 at 4:11 pm

Tom F says:

Hi Matt, great review – good to see that the Trek District range is still garnering interest, despite the last two incarnations not being available in the UK.

I am currently in the market for one myself, the original Grey – Orange one which itself is a beauty.

One thing – as someone who loves to cycle but knows very little about bikes and the terminology that engulfs them; what would the District’s single-speed gearing compare to on say, a Mountain bike?

I currently ride a Specialized Rockhopper Comp Pro (2009) and only use a handful of gears, but I’d be keen to know where the District stands.

I live in London, so there are no really hilly areas, and I will generally be using it to get around town and for the odd 10 mile return ride here and there.

Posted on April 30, 2013 at 7:42 am

Hi Tom, I like the look of the original grey/orange one too, good choice.

Gearing wise, it’s close to running a 32 middle ring with a 13 or 12 tooth cog at the back on a 26 inch wheeled mountain bike. The difference is you are on the road with less weight and skinnier tyres so it’s not as bad as it sounds.

Depends how fast you want to go and what you are wearing, but a 10 mile ride would leave you feeling warm as you likely need to stand up to crank up the odd hill. Generally though it’s a comfortable cruising spin at 16-18 mph, at which speed you feel well on top of the gear without spinning crazy fast.

Posted on April 30, 2013 at 8:20 am

Paul Graville says:

Great review Matt and I agree with all of it. I got one recently from Cycle Surgery in the same colour because I wanted a belt drive bike for commuting. Unfortunately I hated the hipster look so have made a few changes! The detail of this will bore most but I’ll share it because of the lengths you went to in your review.

I wanted to get rid of everything white on the bike so have done the following. Changed the saddle for an old WTB Laser V that kind of follows me around because it suits my behind; changed the handlebar grips to Bontrager lightweight black foam ones; have removed the chain guard and am in the process of repainting in black and laquering; have replaced the white brake cable housings with black Teflon-coated Shimano stuff.

But the thing I hated the most was the wheels, or rather the rims. They made me look like I lived in Shoreditch and wore a man bag! So I replaced them with grey-anodised H Plus Son TB14 rims. These are really nice. I also have them on a race bike but they’re quite wide at 23mm and strong and well made with a welded join, double eyelets and machined braking surfaces. I also changed the rather agricultural straight gauge spokes for top of the line Sapim Race double-butted ones. I thought about changing the hubs but the stock ones are actually very good. They run as smooth as butter with no play and the front one is very light. The rear one is pretty heavy but has a near-silent freewheel, which suits the bike, and has the correct chainline for the belt so I didn’t want to mess with it. This wheel upgrade cost a significant £196 but it completely transforms the bike. It is more comfortable, has a fair bit lower rotating mass and of course no longer makes me look like an idiot. Money spent on good wheels is not wasted.

Finally as a commuter I added mudguards and changed the pedals from the sharp cages to flat rubber ones to protect my leather soles! And Cycle Surgery also set up my bars in a moustachioed style so I have set them more upright for comfort.

Posted on May 9, 2013 at 8:41 pm

Thanks for your comments Paul! Sounds like you have a pretty unique and carefully thought out bike there, and very stealthy by the sound of it.

It has to be said I’m really enjoying riding this bike and have had lots of largely positive/envious comments from people, especially non-enthusiasts, interestingly. It really seems to capture people’s interest.

The rims… made me look like I lived in Shoreditch and wore a man bag!

That made me laugh! I suspect I shall now be called the Shoreditch Shuffler by some of our more appreciative riders!

I quite like the wheels, but they can indeed be improved with better/lighter rims and spokes. A set of Velocity A23 rims could be a good choice too, retaining an element of the deep rim look.

On the wheel issue, we’ve some rather high-end 29er MTB wheels coming in for review shortly – watch this space.

Thanks again and enjoy the ride etc.

Posted on May 9, 2013 at 9:07 pm

Yes I’ve had loads of positive comments too and have recommended to a friend who subsequently bought one and loves it. He’s not an enthusiast but it seems to suit all types.

When I have more money I reckon the ultimate upgrade is a SRAM Automatix 2-speed automatic hub. Would help setting off from lights and up hills. Unfortunately this would require rebuilding the back wheel, a new rear sprocket and longer belt so definitely not for the faint hearted! Shame Trek have pulled belt drive from the UK market due to lack of sales.

Posted on May 11, 2013 at 11:29 am

Bev Woodward says:

How does this bike cope with hills…?

Posted on May 13, 2013 at 6:46 pm

Hi Bev, that’s a tough one to answer! I guess it all depends on what you call hills?!

I find it’s actually more of an effort on long steady inclines, as the need to keep your legs pushing takes it’s toll after a while. Short short and sharp hills I generally get out of the saddle, and it’s fine then.

If you live somewhere quite hilly (or have one big hill to get over) this is definitely not the bike for you. Trek do offer a version with gears but that comes with a chain which is no bad thing. All the other characteristics of the bike remain, such as it’s comfort and easy handling/ride.

Posted on May 13, 2013 at 9:44 pm

Hi Matt, Thanks for your advice..I love the look of the bike and the idea of a no maintenance chain but I live in a hilly area(Saddleworth) which is big ups and long downers…!! .. I think I will have to leave buying one then.. Many Thanks Bev

Posted on May 15, 2013 at 6:04 pm

Related: Ride report: Sunday 12 May – Reigate ramble | Muddymoles

James says:

I too got my Trek District at a bargain price from Cyclesurgery about 6 weeks ago. So far I’ve done nearly 300 miles but at 250 miles I noticed a bit of stretch in the belt and it was at this point I discovered what probably is this very good bike’s ‘Achilles Heel’.

I also ride fixed and like most riders I can retention my regular steel chain in seconds! On the Gates belt drive the adjustment and tension needs to be checked every quater turn of the crank. As you can imagine, this not the ‘work of a moment’ and best done with the bike up on a workstand. Failure to to this can lead to a ‘tight-spot’ which will damage the hub bearing at one point and a slack point on the opposite side which will damage the belt. Also while you’ve got it on the stand check that 5 arms of the front ring are fitted evenly and tightly against the shoulders of the arms of the spider crank. Unlike a steel or alloy front ring there quite a lot a flex in a carbon risin one so pays to check- there was a 5mm gap on one arm of mine.

This isn’t a niggel about the Trek as much as an observation about what makes it noteworthy means that it requires the same attention that it deserves.

I’m going to enjoy riding the Disrict, I’ve already fitting full SKS mudguards to mine. It’s going to be my wet weather trainer and my winter commuter for hopefully many easy maintaince years. Just think. No more wet lube, no more grimy, noisy chain!

Posted on June 23, 2013 at 10:17 pm

Related: DZR Dice shoes – trainers with cleats | Muddymoles

Terry Mack says:

Hi, I quite fancy one of these bikes, but I am worried about the integrity of carbon forks. A friend’s carbon forks snapped and put him in hospital with a serious face injury, since then I have been dubious about just how safe they are. What do you think? best regards, Terry…

Posted on July 14, 2013 at 7:56 pm

Hi Terry, I understand where you’re coming from and it’s fair to say that if carbon fails it can fail catastrophically although more often than not it will show cracking first. It could suffer from the rough and tumble of urban life (bike racks and so on) I guess.

Mind you, the Pro Tour put their bikes through an awful lot of abuse and you don’t hear of these kinds of failures very often these days despite them all running full carbon bikes. On balance I’d say its safer than it sounds!

Posted on July 14, 2013 at 8:31 pm

Hi Matt, After reading your review, I went out and bought a District from Cycle Surgery (and got a great deal). Thank goodness I disregarded the inner voice saying “what does a 70 year old want/need with four bikes?” I’ve just come back from my first 12 miles on it with a Cheshire Cat grin – I haven’t had such a buzz since I got my first bike! Thanks, Terry…

Posted on July 26, 2013 at 8:20 am

Anders says:

Hi Matt, Thanks for a great review. I’m desperately trying to find a European, preferably UK, retailer for the District belt drive. I live in Sweden and there’s no distribution here anymore. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Anders

Posted on August 1, 2013 at 10:56 am

I had a look a few days ago and could not find any either. This could be the “no internet sales” rule that Trek has with their dealers which most seem to stick to or it could just be that these already old 2012 models have just all gone. As far as I can see there was no 2013 model in the UK.

Posted on August 2, 2013 at 5:34 am

Bernard says:

Hi Matt – great review and looks like a great bike. I’d like to buy one but can only find size 56. How tall are you? I’m 6ft so would have thought borderline 56-58? Any thoughts? 🙂

Posted on September 24, 2013 at 10:54 pm

Hi Bernard, I’m close on 5’11”, so near you in height.

I’d say you’d probably be OK with a 56 but you’re definitely at the upper end of the scale for that size. For me it’s perfect and you should find that as you move the saddle up you get the room you need.

As with all these things though, it would be a good idea to try before you buy.

Posted on September 25, 2013 at 8:06 am

I bought the District 2012 around the same time as you and I have to say it has been a great commuting bike. One thing that has been happening recently is quite a bit of slippage on hills or when stop-starting at lights.

Just wondering if anyone else has had the same issues with the carbon belt on this bike?

Posted on November 13, 2013 at 1:51 pm

Hi Dan, good bike choice 😉

I’ve not had any slippage but on investigating the tensioners it ‘looks’ as though the threaded nuts don’t actually thread into anything that pushes against the dropouts and tensions the belt.

I’ll have to report back once my bike mechanic (OK, Dave) has checked I’m not going mad…

Posted on November 13, 2013 at 10:34 pm

What is the largest tire size you could run with this bike?

Posted on March 3, 2016 at 1:26 pm

Bill Isenbarger says:

Hi, Matt: Mine is a 2010 grey/orange—a real beauty. Got it in Aug. 2014 and have about 4,500 miles on it. Please pass to Sam that mine arrived (ebay) from a dealer with Bontrager 32mm Nebula Plus tires. Nearly drove me nuts keeping the rear running free. Trek advised 25-28mm. Now running a 28mm on the rear and all is well. I am 67 and wrecked my legs by always sitting, even up hills. Standing helps, but I am planning to go to a Shimano Alfine 8 speed hub. I’ll let you know how that works out. Thanks for your work! Bill in Texas.

Posted on December 17, 2016 at 10:17 pm

Can I please buy this bike? Mine got stolen years back and can’t find anything close to replacing it! Dm me if you’d be willing to sell

Posted on March 2, 2017 at 4:16 am

LOL sorry Jim, for the time being this bike is not for sale. I agree, it’s an unusual bike to have to replace and Trek now have nothing in their range which combines retro styling with modern tech.

Posted on March 6, 2017 at 5:06 pm

scholz says:

Trek Singlespeed Mit Riemenantrieb Trek District 2009: Alurahmen 58cm Gates Carbon Belt Drive (Riemenantrieb) Alurahmen Carbongabel Kurbel, Ledelsattel, Lenkervorbau, etc.: Bontrager

Ich möchte gern dieses Fahrrad kaufen, wenn möglich, was kostet es mich? HABEN SIE EVENTUELL NOCH EINEN RESTPOSTEN!!!!!Bitte rufen Sie mich unter 015214313482 an. Freundliche Grüsse T.Scholz

Posted on April 24, 2017 at 3:53 pm

OK, here’s my update: I Now have over 10K miles on this 2010 District. Did convert to an Alphine 8 speed rear hub with manual shifting. Been running it now since Feb. 17. Paid $340 for the hub and with all other parts (shifter, cassette shim, new Gates cog, spokes, and installation) it all came to $705. Worth every penny to me! What a great bike it is. I use Runk eeper to track rides and I average 250 miles a month, so with 23 complete months I’ve put well over 5,000 miles on the hub. Needed an initial adjustment just after install and have NEVER had to even use the barrel adjuster since! I did have the rear cog changed Feb. 2018, going from the 55/22 stock setup to 55/24 in order to get a bit lower gearing. I would even go to 55/26 to get the most reduction I can with this stock 118 tooth belt, but can’t find a cog. I am still running the original belt with no problems! Universal Cycles states you can change up to 4 tooth sizes on a cog without needing to go to a different numbered tooth belt. All work expertly done by Justin at Bikeland, The Woodlands, Texas.

Posted on February 4, 2019 at 9:20 pm

Hi Bill congrats on hitting 10K with the Trek!

I still have mine but haven’t hit anything like your mileage – would like to do the conversion to Alfine to give more flexibility to the bike.

Posted on May 8, 2019 at 10:18 am

Eugene says:

So I just got this bike, and it rides really well, but the other day I got the front wheel stolen. I know almost next to nothing about bikes, and have been scouring online to see if I could find an apt replacement, without sacrificing the feel of the ride too much.

Is there a name for the rims for this bike I can find? Or something ample to use instead (within a budget of $100-$150 for a front wheel only)?

Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Posted on May 8, 2019 at 5:06 am

Hi Eugene, bad luck losing the wheel!

Sadly I can’t find any documentation on what these wheels were as originally spec’ed. I think they are similar to Velocity Deep V rims ( https://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/deep-v-622 ) but not sure they are as deep (tall) as the original wheels on the District?

Colour matching is also likely to be a problem – maybe have a chat with Trek?

I would like to find some similar rims myself in a tubeless compatible format as I am thinking about fitting an Alfine internal rear hub to provide some extra gearing. That would force a wheel rebuild so it would be a good excuse to go tubeless.

Posted on May 8, 2019 at 10:16 am

Hello again Matt, I just wanted to mention that your reply was helpful. Thank you for the prompt response! I got a new front wheel which fits well, though not quite a cream-colored deep dish one.

Posted on May 16, 2019 at 3:47 am

You’re welcome Eugene, glad yo’ve got your bike up and running again!

Posted on May 21, 2019 at 10:52 pm

Steve Jones says:

I have one of the green/brown models. I have converted the rear wheel to an Alfine 8 Speed and the front wheel to a Dynamo with an Exposure hub. Currently running 30mm Schwalbe CX Pro Tyres as I tend to use it on gravel at the moment.

Does anyone know what screws are needed for the chain adjusters as mine are starting to round off, making belt tensioning a pain.

Posted on July 22, 2019 at 1:10 pm

Steve, I have a similar plan – not sure yet wether to stick to the belt or swap to a chain to go with the Alfine. What did you use to route the cables? My bike doesn’t have any cable stops so not sure what to do!

The idea is to pair the Alfine with some Pacenti tubeless rims for a more flexible town bike…

Posted on October 5, 2019 at 1:26 pm

Apologies for the late reply, only a year late! I used large cable ties to fix the gear cable to the downtube and chainstay, a bit ugly but it works. I have now also fitted a CDX belt and sprockets and Alfine Hollowtech 2 cranks and BB.

Posted on December 29, 2020 at 4:15 pm

Thanks Steve – my plan has been on hold due to Pacenti Brevet rim shortages but I see they are now in stock. I have a donor Alfine lined up.

Still want to go this route, might switch to vintage brown grips and saddle too which I think will go well with the silver rims. Shame the CDX stuff is so expensive!

Posted on December 29, 2020 at 8:43 pm

I had a big birthday in 2019 and got a fair bit of cash so treated myself to the CDX kit. I’m thinking of changing the rims for some Kinlin XR-22’s or XR-31’s, maybe even an XR-31 on the back and an XR-22 on the front.

Posted on January 22, 2021 at 11:27 pm

Good call Steve! Lucky you having the CDX stuff.

I think the idea of tubeless rims (and lighter rims on the Trek District for that matter) will make an already great ride better, especially if you can sneak in a 32mm tyre over the stock 28s. Maybe a 30 is the sweet spot?

I really want polished silver due to the colours of this model (but other model years have different colours).

Posted on January 23, 2021 at 11:21 am

I have just noticed from your photos of the bike that the frame splits in a different place than mine. Mine has a split dropout rather than the seat stay. Did you get your new wheels built, if you did, do you know what the original rims weigh? I am going to get mine done this month.

Posted on April 22, 2021 at 1:11 pm

Brendan says:

Just checking in as an owner of one of these bikes. I’ve probably clocked up about 5,000km on it so far. My one is still single-speed but I changed it to a normal chain after the belt dramatically snapped one day while crossing a stressful junction. And it now has some Marathon 2 tyres, but is still single-speed. Every now and then I consider getting a new bike and spend a couple of weeks googling around for alternatives. But it always ends in the same way, with me wondering why I’m looking for another bike: there’s nothing wrong with this one!

Posted on October 4, 2019 at 2:10 pm

Thanks for the comment Brendan; I remain very happy with Trek even after several years. I’m thinking of a hub gear though so I can use it more often – I get quite hot with the singlespeed in the summer months!

Posted on October 5, 2019 at 1:29 pm

Used bike hunter says:

You mentioned “cheap” a few times but I did not see a single mention of price. Hmm.

Posted on September 3, 2020 at 10:12 pm

I guess it all depends on what you call cheap!

The Trek District 1 retailed for £700 and I got it for £450 in a sale IIRC. But it was a long time ago now – 2012 model bought in 2013.

Still going strong!

Posted on September 20, 2020 at 9:21 pm

Related: Trek District 1 2011 specification | Bikes | Muddymoles: Mountain biking (MTB) in the Surrey Hills and Mole Valley

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Trek Marlin Singlespeed

• AUS $ NZD $ USD $ CAD $ GBP £ EUR €

Colour / Matte Metallic Black

Size / 15.5, 17.5, 19, 21, 23"

At a glance

Where to buy.

Specifications

• Frame Alpha Gold Aluminum, butted & hydroformed tubing, cold-forged dropouts & bottom bracket, G2 Geometry, sliding vertical dropouts
• Wheels Formula DC20 alloy front hub, KT TB5R SS disc alloy rear hub; Bontrager AT-850 disc 29 32-hole rims
• Wheel Size 29"
• Tires Bontrager 29-2, 29x2.1"
• Crank Truvativ E400 1.1G, 32T
• Brakeset Tektro Novela mechanical disc brakes, 6-bolt, 160mm rotors
• Handlebar Bontrager Low Riser, 25.4mm, 5mm rise, 9 degree sweep
• Saddle Bontrager Evoke 1
• Seatpost Bontrager SSR, 27.2mm, 20mm offset
• Stem Bontrager SSR, 25.4mm
• Headset 1-1/8" threadless, semi-integrated, semi-cartridge bearings

Q: What size wheels does the 2012 Trek Marlin Singlespeed have?

The 2012 Trek Marlin Singlespeed has 29" wheels.

Q: What size 2012 Trek Marlin Singlespeed should I get?

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40 Facts About Elektrostal

Written by Lanette Mayes

Modified & Updated: 01 Jun 2024

Reviewed by Jessica Corbett

Elektrostal is a vibrant city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia. With a rich history, stunning architecture, and a thriving community, Elektrostal is a city that has much to offer. Whether you are a history buff, nature enthusiast, or simply curious about different cultures, Elektrostal is sure to captivate you.

This article will provide you with 40 fascinating facts about Elektrostal, giving you a better understanding of why this city is worth exploring. From its origins as an industrial hub to its modern-day charm, we will delve into the various aspects that make Elektrostal a unique and must-visit destination.

So, join us as we uncover the hidden treasures of Elektrostal and discover what makes this city a true gem in the heart of Russia.

Key Takeaways:

• Elektrostal, known as the “Motor City of Russia,” is a vibrant and growing city with a rich industrial history, offering diverse cultural experiences and a strong commitment to environmental sustainability.
• With its convenient location near Moscow, Elektrostal provides a picturesque landscape, vibrant nightlife, and a range of recreational activities, making it an ideal destination for residents and visitors alike.

Known as the “Motor City of Russia.”

Elektrostal, a city located in the Moscow Oblast region of Russia, earned the nickname “Motor City” due to its significant involvement in the automotive industry.

Home to the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Elektrostal is renowned for its metallurgical plant, which has been producing high-quality steel and alloys since its establishment in 1916.

Boasts a rich industrial heritage.

Elektrostal has a long history of industrial development, contributing to the growth and progress of the region.

Founded in 1916.

The city of Elektrostal was founded in 1916 as a result of the construction of the Elektrostal Metallurgical Plant.

Located approximately 50 kilometers east of Moscow.

Elektrostal is situated in close proximity to the Russian capital, making it easily accessible for both residents and visitors.

Known for its vibrant cultural scene.

Elektrostal is home to several cultural institutions, including museums, theaters, and art galleries that showcase the city’s rich artistic heritage.

A popular destination for nature lovers.

Surrounded by picturesque landscapes and forests, Elektrostal offers ample opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, camping, and birdwatching.

Hosts the annual Elektrostal City Day celebrations.

Every year, Elektrostal organizes festive events and activities to celebrate its founding, bringing together residents and visitors in a spirit of unity and joy.

Has a population of approximately 160,000 people.

Elektrostal is home to a diverse and vibrant community of around 160,000 residents, contributing to its dynamic atmosphere.

Boasts excellent education facilities.

The city is known for its well-established educational institutions, providing quality education to students of all ages.

A center for scientific research and innovation.

Elektrostal serves as an important hub for scientific research, particularly in the fields of metallurgy , materials science, and engineering.

Surrounded by picturesque lakes.

The city is blessed with numerous beautiful lakes , offering scenic views and recreational opportunities for locals and visitors alike.

Well-connected transportation system.

Elektrostal benefits from an efficient transportation network, including highways, railways, and public transportation options, ensuring convenient travel within and beyond the city.

Famous for its traditional Russian cuisine.

Food enthusiasts can indulge in authentic Russian dishes at numerous restaurants and cafes scattered throughout Elektrostal.

Home to notable architectural landmarks.

Elektrostal boasts impressive architecture, including the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord and the Elektrostal Palace of Culture.

Offers a wide range of recreational facilities.

Residents and visitors can enjoy various recreational activities, such as sports complexes, swimming pools, and fitness centers, enhancing the overall quality of life.

Provides a high standard of healthcare.

Elektrostal is equipped with modern medical facilities, ensuring residents have access to quality healthcare services.

Home to the Elektrostal History Museum.

The Elektrostal History Museum showcases the city’s fascinating past through exhibitions and displays.

A hub for sports enthusiasts.

Elektrostal is passionate about sports, with numerous stadiums, arenas, and sports clubs offering opportunities for athletes and spectators.

Celebrates diverse cultural festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal hosts a variety of cultural festivals, celebrating different ethnicities, traditions, and art forms.

Electric power played a significant role in its early development.

Elektrostal owes its name and initial growth to the establishment of electric power stations and the utilization of electricity in the industrial sector.

Boasts a thriving economy.

The city’s strong industrial base, coupled with its strategic location near Moscow, has contributed to Elektrostal’s prosperous economic status.

Houses the Elektrostal Drama Theater.

The Elektrostal Drama Theater is a cultural centerpiece, attracting theater enthusiasts from far and wide.

Popular destination for winter sports.

Elektrostal’s proximity to ski resorts and winter sport facilities makes it a favorite destination for skiing, snowboarding, and other winter activities.

Promotes environmental sustainability.

Elektrostal prioritizes environmental protection and sustainability, implementing initiatives to reduce pollution and preserve natural resources.

Home to renowned educational institutions.

Elektrostal is known for its prestigious schools and universities, offering a wide range of academic programs to students.

Committed to cultural preservation.

The city values its cultural heritage and takes active steps to preserve and promote traditional customs, crafts, and arts.

Hosts an annual International Film Festival.

The Elektrostal International Film Festival attracts filmmakers and cinema enthusiasts from around the world, showcasing a diverse range of films.

Encourages entrepreneurship and innovation.

Elektrostal supports aspiring entrepreneurs and fosters a culture of innovation, providing opportunities for startups and business development .

Offers a range of housing options.

Elektrostal provides diverse housing options, including apartments, houses, and residential complexes, catering to different lifestyles and budgets.

Home to notable sports teams.

Elektrostal is proud of its sports legacy , with several successful sports teams competing at regional and national levels.

Boasts a vibrant nightlife scene.

Residents and visitors can enjoy a lively nightlife in Elektrostal, with numerous bars, clubs, and entertainment venues.

Promotes cultural exchange and international relations.

Elektrostal actively engages in international partnerships, cultural exchanges, and diplomatic collaborations to foster global connections.

Surrounded by beautiful nature reserves.

Nearby nature reserves, such as the Barybino Forest and Luchinskoye Lake, offer opportunities for nature enthusiasts to explore and appreciate the region’s biodiversity.

Commemorates historical events.

The city pays tribute to significant historical events through memorials, monuments, and exhibitions, ensuring the preservation of collective memory.

Promotes sports and youth development.

Elektrostal invests in sports infrastructure and programs to encourage youth participation, health, and physical fitness.

Hosts annual cultural and artistic festivals.

Throughout the year, Elektrostal celebrates its cultural diversity through festivals dedicated to music, dance, art, and theater.

Provides a picturesque landscape for photography enthusiasts.

The city’s scenic beauty, architectural landmarks, and natural surroundings make it a paradise for photographers.

Connects to Moscow via a direct train line.

The convenient train connection between Elektrostal and Moscow makes commuting between the two cities effortless.

A city with a bright future.

Elektrostal continues to grow and develop, aiming to become a model city in terms of infrastructure, sustainability, and quality of life for its residents.

In conclusion, Elektrostal is a fascinating city with a rich history and a vibrant present. From its origins as a center of steel production to its modern-day status as a hub for education and industry, Elektrostal has plenty to offer both residents and visitors. With its beautiful parks, cultural attractions, and proximity to Moscow, there is no shortage of things to see and do in this dynamic city. Whether you’re interested in exploring its historical landmarks, enjoying outdoor activities, or immersing yourself in the local culture, Elektrostal has something for everyone. So, next time you find yourself in the Moscow region, don’t miss the opportunity to discover the hidden gems of Elektrostal.

Q: What is the population of Elektrostal?

A: As of the latest data, the population of Elektrostal is approximately XXXX.

Q: How far is Elektrostal from Moscow?

A: Elektrostal is located approximately XX kilometers away from Moscow.

Q: Are there any famous landmarks in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to several notable landmarks, including XXXX and XXXX.

Q: What industries are prominent in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal is known for its steel production industry and is also a center for engineering and manufacturing.

Q: Are there any universities or educational institutions in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal is home to XXXX University and several other educational institutions.

Q: What are some popular outdoor activities in Elektrostal?

A: Elektrostal offers several outdoor activities, such as hiking, cycling, and picnicking in its beautiful parks.

Q: Is Elektrostal well-connected in terms of transportation?

A: Yes, Elektrostal has good transportation links, including trains and buses, making it easily accessible from nearby cities.

Q: Are there any annual events or festivals in Elektrostal?

A: Yes, Elektrostal hosts various events and festivals throughout the year, including XXXX and XXXX.

Elektrostal's fascinating history, vibrant culture, and promising future make it a city worth exploring. For more captivating facts about cities around the world, discover the unique characteristics that define each city . Uncover the hidden gems of Moscow Oblast through our in-depth look at Kolomna. Lastly, dive into the rich industrial heritage of Teesside, a thriving industrial center with its own story to tell.

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Our commitment to delivering trustworthy and engaging content is at the heart of what we do. Each fact on our site is contributed by real users like you, bringing a wealth of diverse insights and information. To ensure the highest standards of accuracy and reliability, our dedicated editors meticulously review each submission. This process guarantees that the facts we share are not only fascinating but also credible. Trust in our commitment to quality and authenticity as you explore and learn with us.

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Elektrostal

Elektrostal Localisation : Country Russia , Oblast Moscow Oblast . Available Information : Geographical coordinates , Population, Altitude, Area, Weather and Hotel . Nearby cities and villages : Noginsk , Pavlovsky Posad and Staraya Kupavna .

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Stache single speed solution

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I have searched the forum and found a few old posts discussing difficulties with running the Stache as a single speed. Has anyone figured out a good solution to avoid the chain popping problems from the flexing rear end? Will a narrow wide cog make a noticeable difference? Thanks  

How big are you? It's my understanding that the elevated chainstay chain drop issue was mostly happening with bigger guys who flex the rear end of the bike a lot more. I'm 170# and ran the first Stache 5 with elevated chainstays as single speed and never once dropped a chain.  

I'm 6 ft 200lbs. Yes, the problem tends to be with bigger riders getting more flex out of the frame as one would expect. I have ridden some pretty noodley ti and steel frames and not had a problem even with a much slacker chain. I'm wondering if someone had the issue and found a solution short of running a tensioner. What cog and ring do you use? I have a 22 Rennen cog, 28 steel narrow wide ring, 9 speed chain. All new parts. With the chain tight it occasionally pops, after a few hour of riding when the chain loosens slightly the problem gets worse.  

run a chain tensioner  

I saw that recommended on another thread, but no luck. 8 hours today with an old Alfine tensioner and problem persisted. Possibly I could have better luck with a different tensioner, but if the chain is popping off the top of the cog where the tension is while pedaling I don't understand how having a tensioner would help. I will probably continue to experiment with the tensioner though. Shame to run one on a bike with sliding drop outs though.  

If this is for a carbon frame, those are not the best for SS, alloy is. There is more flex from the stays on the carbon model so chain popping is more common. A tensioner is the best for SS on these bikes. Did you mess with your chainline at all, i.e. a new crank, BB, or chainring?  

Hey. Thanks for chiming in. Yes, it is carbon. Yeah, I have played a bit with the chainline. + or - a few mm of optimal either way. The popping persists with a tensioner. I have also experimented with different amounts of tension. Definitely worse when it is slack. Seems like there really is no good way to work around the frame flex. Huge bummer. I would like the try a narrow wide cog and 10 speed chain, but hate to spend the money without hearing of other's experiences.  

Mitch...I'm surprised to see you post that. My experience is vastly different. Started with an aluminum Stache, and have had 2 carbon as well. All run SS. The only one I had any noticeable trouble with was the alloy one, and it honestly wasn't even a LOT of trouble, just occasional. Admittedly that is a massive sample size of...3...but along with that a few years of casual research on this very topic always gave the sense that the carbon one had less issue overall than the aluminum Stache.  

After reading other threads on the issue, it seems people have reported the popping with both carbon and al frames. Also, I am able to ride this bike in such a way that the popping very rarely occurs, but if I get after it especially on a hill it happens fairly frequently. rwitte - What size frame, how heavy are you and what cog /chain are you running?  

My alloy was an 18.5, and my 2 carbons 19.5/L. I'm 5' 10" and weight varies between 165-180 lbs. I think you're hitting on the right things...set-up and component selection. I run as large a ring and cog as possible...typically I have run either 34 x 22, or 32 x 20 (oval rings.) I also think running chain tension tighter than "normal" has helped. Like I said, the popping I had on the alloy Stache wasn't at all prohibitive, it was just more than either of my carbon bikes. My alloy one was my first, so maybe I'm not properly factoring in learning the perfect set-up and components...and once I jumped to the carbon frame I had all that down. My 2018 Stache is my daily driver to this day, and I CAN get it to pop a little in just the right situation (REALLY cranking an uphill switchback.) Frankly when that happens my first thought is always "there it is, I finally broke the frame" lol!  

pbasinger...just looking at that pic, I'd say way too much slack in that chain. Yeah, I'm aware that's how chains on SS usually look...doesn't need to be crazy tight. My point is that right, wrong, or indifferent, I think the chain tension on the Stache DOES need to be almost crazy tight. If not, there will be more popping. On my ovals, I set it up to where the highest chain tension point...frankly feels like it's too much. Will that stress the crap out of the frame? I don't discount that possibility, hence my comment earlier about thinking I've finally broke it on the rare occasion I do get a pop.  

rwitte said: pbasinger...just looking at that pic, I'd say way too much slack in that chain. Click to expand...

• Oct 8, 2021

My Stache never does this popping issue that I have heard about. I run 30x20 gearing with a pretty beefy chain, like something between a 1 speed and 8 sped chain. I have the alloy model. I am a light rider. I also use the problem solver zinger for SS on an XD driver.  

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