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Glock Pre-Travel Reduction Part 1 EDUCATIONAL ONLY

TRANSCRIPT | Video Link

Alright. Alright. Hey guys, what's up Johnny Glock here. 

First of all, I’d like to apologize for the long hiatus that I’ve had. I got so many inquiries like, hey, are you okay? Did you cut your hand off or fall off a building or something like that? But so I appreciate it. I appreciate the concern, but no, I’m alive and trucking. I've just been busy as heck. And I don't know, I’ve told a couple of you people, you know a couple of guys when you've contacted me, you know, Jonathan is no longer with me. And that was part of the issue that right before Black Friday, this happened, and I had to let him go. And so I have been completely, completely inundated since that point. But you know, stuff happens and something great has happened. Now that I got a new guy, his name's Jake and he is working out phenomenally. He's right over there painting springs right now. So you'll get to meet him a little bit later in the videos and stuff like that. 

But yeah, so I’m back on track, let's put it that way. And because of that, I have a spare moment here to, you know, come up out from under water and do a video for you guys. This is a video I had it up before, but you know how YouTube is, they take stuff down that they deem whatever, you know, I’m not going to get into that whole thing. 

But nonetheless it was up and it's something that everyone always asks for. It's like, how do you limit pre-travel and there was a way that I showed how to limit pre-travel safely. With the fixed kind of post position and that's what we're going to do today and it's going to be a lot more detailed than before because now I have like a dry erase board. I'm trying something new. I'm sure my camera work won't be any better, but you know, I got this dry erase board that I can draw stuff on. Try to show you exactly what I’m doing, if I really can't get stuff in focus the way I want it to. So yeah, that's about it. I'm going to shut up here, at least this interaction and bring it down and you know, let's get started. So I’ll get this camera come down here. We’ve all been through this one before. Just till we get the position correct. It's going to take a little bit of finagling, good lord, not again guys. All right. That's going to be fine. 

So basically, I have one that's done here somewhere. I’ll find it or maybe, I don't. I just did one. Good lord. Here it is. Here it is. Okay. So this is what you're looking at. It's this post right here. I'm going to kill this light just so we don't get a lot of blur. I mean a lot of glare, but it's this post that is right here. And what that does is it limits the pre-travel. So you are limiting it, but you're not of course off the drop safety shelf right there. So what I’m going to do, I’m going to move some of this stuff, but this is what you're going to need, and this is what I showed you before. 

You're going to need a punch. You can use a drill. I have these pin vises right here that are pretty cool. You know, they come with a bunch of different you know, inserts like this that you can put different drill bits into them or whatever you're wanting to do, but it's called a pin vise. Whether you want to put in a tool or something like that. But this is a 116th drill bit right here. This is a 116, these are 116th roll punches in here. Set these to the side. This is the punch of course. 

And then you need the housing and now I’m going to show you some different things with the bar and all that as well. So let me get this dry erase board and see if this, actually, this format can actually work right here. So no, wait, I’m just going to draw a picture of the shelf. I know this is backwards, so hopefully I drew it correctly here. If not, you guys are going to have to be smart. 

So this is basically, this is, you know, where the cruciform perpendicular bars of the cruciform are on there. If it goes past that and it's kind of sitting in this area and you have a horizontal drop, this can drop all the way down into this area. Thereby having the cruciform kick up, which is right here, drop off the sear lug face and then bang. Okay, so I hope that's making sense to you all. 

In the one I showed you. The post was kind of like right in this area. Now if you do it right about there, you're not going to have to modify say shoes like Overwatch Precision or you know, SSVI , who are some of the other ones? Oh, there's another one, Apex [Tactical], things like that. So the more conservative you are with where you put this, the less work you have to do later on down the line. Now, if you're trying to really push the threshold, you know you're going to and you want to put it here and you want to have the, you know, at least you want at least a third of this on the shelf. Okay. So you don't want more than that off of there. There's instances if you really, really, really know what you're doing, you can push that. But for all intents and purposes for you guys, I wouldn't go much further than having 1/3 of this parallel, perpendicular bar rather, which is this part right here off that shelf. Okay. Cause you're going to run into potential problems. And then when you do this modification too, other ones have to follow with it, if you are going to push the threshold of this. 

So that's basically the explanation of you know, of what we're attempting to do here. And I’m going to erase this real quick here. Looks like I might be a little better. 

I had these ready because I knew I might run into this. It's all about preparation. So the other thing that you're going, because we're going to go through all these modifications first. The other thing that you're going to have to modify if you limit pre-travel is your trigger safety tab. Because what's going to happen is the trigger safety tab with this much meat on it right here. Let me get this, with all of this right here, it's not going to want to pop out of the frame. So you are going to have to modify this. So if we're looking at it this way, there are two ways to do this. So it comes up and then it comes to a right angle like that. That's exactly what we're looking at. 

The first way to do it is you can take an exacto knife and you can cut this right here. So you have all this length to deal with, for doing your horizontal cut. So you know, you might want to cut it vertically first like this, just to create, take that little chunk away like that. All right and the way you're going to do that is just pretty simply. I'm going to try to do it right here on the, I kind of do it to the side and you're just putting the exacto knife in like that. And then you know you've got to be careful here because you don't want to, okay, see how simple that was. So now if you can see I took that and made it completely one solid thing instead of that right angle. And if we compare it to another one, which I’ll grab quickly, you can see the difference in between the two right there. One has the right; this one has the right angle at the end and the other one doesn’t. 

So if you want to do it the other way, you can go, and then from there you can decide, then from there you can decide if you want to, let's take this away right here. You can decide where on this you want to shave off that much or if you want to take off that much. The rule is do not ever go lower than where that right angle was to begin with. This is your no-go line right there. So you know, if you're trying to get as much out of it as you can, you're going to do this differently. You're going to insert the exacto knife like this and you are going to get the angle right there and you're going to snap it that way.

But what you kind of want to do is you want to angle your, you want your force to kind of try to angle it. And I’ll show why. I always get it up a little bit higher in the air just because then my tool won't, then my tool won’t hit the ground, but, and I use my thumb to kind of pry it out a little bit first. And then when I stick my exacto knife in, and I kind of just lay it on that ledge. And then so when I close it, I have the actual angle that I’m looking for and you can see exactly what I did here. I accomplished exactly what I wanted to. I cut it more at an angle instead of straight across. That way I have some room to play with. just a little bit of room for doing a couple of different things for me. And the way I design my triggers, I kind of come right where that angle starts and then nip it off there. So as you can see, I’m still above that right-angle line. The no-no line would be to cut it completely. And I’ll show you this to cut it.

Okay. So now you see how it is completely, what I’m going to bring up, maybe right down there, how it is completely 100% parallel with that opening, like so it looks like a square. Gen 3 is absolutely not your off the shelf, Gen 4’s possibly, Gen 5’s absolutely not. So there are different tolerances with different trigger group, with different generations and stuff like that. 

But you know, if you start this way, you know, like the saying is you can always take more off. This is where I would suggest start with this vertical. And then you can always use my trick that I showed you. If you guys have watched my videos where you're using a tool like this, which is an exacto knife that I kind of made flat. And then flipping this and you can grab in there and sort of grab that and you can hear it making that noise I hope.

What I’m doing is I’m shimming that out. Sorry about that. I'm not used to working on a not flat surface. You can shim that out and then you're grabbing it right here with...and pulling that out so you can actually take this trigger safety tab out, which gives you this. So then from there, just like with this picture, you can decide where and how much of that you want to just take off. You know, like I said, the golden rule is do not even get, you know, if you're just learning how to do this, I would say don't even get close to that, to making that square. That's not what you want to see. You know, you're really, really pushing it. 

So that's enough about that. I'm going to get these out of the way. I hope you’re following along. It felt pretty good. I think. 

Also, okay, so let's get to these modifications. So the easiest way to do this, and you know, I try to make these things efficient for you guys. You know, you really want guides and things to mark and the more you can mark and here I say measure twice, cut once and all that kind of stuff. It's the same thing with this. So you know, right here with this one, if I bring it up so you can see it close up, you can see an exacto line cut in right there. You can see that. So that is lining up with where the center point of that pin is put in. 

So how do you, it's very simple, very self-explanatory. How to do that? You're just taking an exacto knife and you're making the mark. Let me see if I can focus this in some for you guys. There we go. Man I am getting good. So you're going to take this and mark it like that. It's a little bit sideways on that one. But you guys are getting my point. So if you're trying to push the threshold, you're going to make your line more like, right like that. And then that you're just going to follow that over the top and score it again you know right where the line ends like that. So now you have your line up there too. And then all you're aiming for with the punch, when you go to punch it, is dead center. 

All right. Now this is a little bit, this is pushing the threshold. It'll probably won't turn out the way I want it to for demonstration purposes and for liability purposes possibly because this here is an educational video and I don't want you guys doing this at home. So basically right here I’m going to kind of split the difference and make my mark right like this. Okay. So you can see that. And then since I know I angled out, I don't know, I think it's probably, cause I’m on this, you know a little bit about, this gives right here that I’m on so kind of make sure you're super on a flat surface. And since I can see this is a little bit further this way than I want it to, when I come up, I’m going to move my blade over a little bit right there and follow it up this way, and there is my line. Okay. That's another modification, not supposed to see that. I'm just kidding around. 

So right here when I go to punch, you know I’m going to really get that set in there and that's another thing you don't want. So this is going to give a little bit when I punch. So because I’m on this kind of rubbery texture, you can see how that's holding, but you really want to punch it a couple of times. I have a couple of different punches that are different strengths and all that, that you can see. Wow. See that one was like almost too much. So you know, here in the shop I have a variety of punches and you can see, and you guys might mess it up too. So I always like when I do stuff like this, when I’m demonstrating these sort of things, so that obviously needed to be on a very firm surface and I needed to really, really have a focused and concentrated push to get this thing to, there we go. And you heard that, that's pretty dang loud.

From there, and this is the hard, it's not the hard part, but you know, you have to concentrate on keeping this whole, you know, vertical and horizontal at the same time. Maybe I can do it this way. If you're like this, you're going to go the wrong way. If you're like this, you're going to miss if you're like, this is going to be wrong. If you're like that, you really have to be dead center, you know. And that's something you're just going to have to learn, you know, to work with yourself when you're doing this. You know, I’m going to come this way because, for me, I can…(want to get the inside there). For me, I can kind of control a lot of this. 

The top hole, you know, it's going to determine a lot, but it's not the end all be all if you do mess it up. So what I’m doing is I’m applying pressure with the back of my hand here. I don't know any of you have ever made a fire with friction, but it's the same principle. So as I’m turning this, I’m also keeping pressure back here because I need the downward pressure, cause this drill is not going to, this bit is not going to go through by itself. But as you can see, it's not super hard, you know, and it's staying straight up that way. How I want it to track is perfect right now. And so now that I’ve got it started, you can see it punched right through there. And now this is where if you do make a mistake and it's going too far right or too far left, you want to kind of back this out. And then actually before you back it out, you want to go reverse. Sorry about that. You want to go reverse just to clean, just to kind of clean it out. 

And you don't want to clean it out too much cause your kind of, you want it, you want that extra polymer in there to kind of grab the roll pin. So when you push through, this is where you're going to really want to make sure you are going dead center in there. So every which way you have to change it to make that happen is what you want to do. And you can see with mine, it's kind of tracking a straight line like that. And the thing is keep the, you really want to keep the ejector in there cause you're going to bottom out on that ejector. And that's a really good indicator that you're through as far as you need to go.

So once again, and this way I can kind of push it this way, I’m sorry, I can push a little bit harder, use a little bit of, use a little bit more and you'll see the, you'll see the polymer start to curl up and then you'll kind of hit a dead stop. And that's something that you're going to have to figure out, you know, in a matter of feeling, okay. So that's done. That hole is done, and you know you can take something, anything that has a smaller diameter and stick it through there just to actually, I want to take a little bit more polymer out of there, just to kind of clean it up some.

Then you can take something like this and stick it through there and make sure you can really feel that you're in there. It's out of the way there. So you can see that. So that you're in there and you're actually, you can see the silver right there that you're actually hitting that, you're bottoming out in the ejector. 

So, next this a very handy tool. And I’m sure you all know what these are. They're forceps, so you can basically grab one of the roll pins here and grab a hold of it with the forceps and then, push it right through there to get it to start. Didn't really get that one to start, so make sure I’m still in there. So right here you can push it through to get it to start. All right. Once it started, you're pretty much golden. You know, I wouldn't say use this because you literally might slip and end up, you know, going through your hand. I'll use it because I am a professional. 

And then if you can see this, you can see it's, I’m bringing that up there. It's down in there. You know, you're really, really, really, and you can see it's lined up perfect. It's down in there. At this point you can either put some super glue or you know, something that I like to do is I have these little, you know, if they're 8 watt or something like this, it's a little 8W handheld battery operated. I take these on remote with me sometimes when I’m doing that and once this heats up, you know, you can take a little, you can touch it, you know, just a dab or something like that or if you know, if you have some polymer lying around, like things like this or whatever, you can melt that down and put it on there.

Don't get too crazy with it. Cause remember this is, you know, basically my advice would be like kind of leave it alone where it is. It's not going to really creep up the super glue. I'm sorry, the super glue would be more enough than to hold it in there, just to dab down in there because they really do end up you know, doing a good job of staying there. And with this one right here, as you can see, I kind rip that a little bit. You know, but the gun is, you know, really what's going past is the, is the only thing that's going past is if you look at your back plates kind of going through there, this is a Gen 3. 

So that's it. Now the thing that you have to remember is the further you bring it back into the pre-travel, this little bugger right here is going to want to start to encroach on the, grab a slide here. It's going to want to encroach on the firing pin safety. 

So if I can demonstrate this, and you guys can see it, once this starts being pulled further back into pre-travel, you're going to get that phenomenon right there. You know, the further you go back, the more it's going to want to hit that. That's why, you know, and you can take it off to a fault too. Some of the companies I think just take way too much off. So I’ll grab one of my bars. This is kind of the cut that I use right here. And as you can see, that takes off exactly what I’m looking to achieve. This is for a combat kit too. So you're probably sitting right about, you know, right about this kind of like there, you know, and there's a major difference in between. If you take a good look at these two these two ramps, there is quite a bit taken away there and that's completely for safety purposes.

So you have to take enough away, but you have to leave enough too, as you can see, they're raising the same. If you look at my triggers, you'll actually see that it is not touched at all on the top there because I really need that margin to stay there, especially for, you know, not especially for a combat kit, but for any kit, you know, you really want to make sure you're, you know, you're engaging and disengaging that safety. It's very important. So, and that's why a lot of times when you look at some safety, you know, when you see you know, the safety and not really Gen 5 so much cause they're a little bit different. But we'll use it anyway. When you see the battering on the shelves right here in the Gen 1 through 4's, it's because that margin somehow has been compromised. Sometimes it's really not that, sometimes it's just a Glock, you know, they're molded parts, a lot of time and things are all over the place. 

So these are just things to look out for. So these are the things that have to be in unison. You know, you have to, when you start to limit, you know, this is going to limit the amount that this is going to be coming, swinging forward in your handgun. So when that happens, if you don't, like I said, modify the trigger safety tab, it's not going to pop out. So this has to be done. So it's one, two, three, and they all have to be done in order to keep the gun safe. That's why I said, you can see I’m out there a little bit. I'm really, really pushing the third rule right there. That's the edge of anything that I would say any novice should do without knowing all the other things to have to do as far as engagement and all that sort of stuff. 

This is probably closer and these are, as you can see these are, you know, just parts I have laying around that I’ve messed up or I’ve been doing like modifications on trying to learn some stuff, but that's kind of, that right there is going to make it so you don't have to, because if this is aluminum, this is an aluminum. 

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OUR CATALOG

The Best Aftermarket Glock Triggers

Kenzie Fitzpatrick

Competitive Shooter

Michael Crites

Licensed Concealed Carry Holder

Products are selected by our editors. We may earn a commission on purchases from a link. How we select gear.

Glock pistols are popular for a good reason: they’re durable tools that serve people well around the world.

Whether it’s in military settings, law enforcement, tactical or civilian uses from self-defense to the highest echelons of competition, you’re likely to find a Glock anywhere someone is using a handgun.

In This Article

Glock trigger comparison.

Below is my list of the best Glock triggers. I list the best choices in terms of value, performance, design, and cost.

Click on the name to head to the product page, read reviews and check prices or skip ahead to the list of triggers.

Glock Trigger Reviews

1. best overall: tyrant designs.

I.T.T.S. Glock Gen3-4 Trigger

Other sellers:.

Tyrant’s “Improved Tyrant Trigger System” (or I.T.T.S.) tops our list because it’s both an extremely well-made component that fit perfectly in our G17 and its half the price of other top-end options. The trigger itself is a cross between a curved and flat-faced trigger, which is both unique and offers the best of both trigger worlds.

Like any factory Glock trigger you get a blade safety, which is light but noticeable and the 30 percent power spring gave me quick resets that sped follow-up shots over the factory go pedal.

Trigger installation isn’t particularly “techy” but can seem intimidating to the uninitiated, which is why Tyrant’s installation videos are such a nice feature — they’re available for every product and are well produced.

For the trigger install you’ll need a punch, hammer, and handgun armorer’s block if you have one; if not, a roll of duct tape will suffice.

We also have a full review of Tyrant Designs products if you want to dive deeper into the world of CNC-machined custom Glock componentry.

2. Runner-Up: Agency Arms

Agency Arms Drop In Glock Trigger

This trigger gives you all the benefits of upgrading a Glock trigger. With the Agency Arms Drop-In Trigger you’ll get an aluminum, flat-faced trigger with much less pre-travel than stock, leading to a cleaner break and one of the best shooting experiences of any aftermarket Glock trigger.

Also, the trigger is bright red if customizing your Glock is a priority. They offer this in a few models, so make sure to take a moment and confirm which generation of Glock you have before ordering. Installation is fairly simple, but if you haven’t done it before asking a friend who has for an assist is a good idea.

3. Best Polymer Trigger: Overwatch Precision

Overwatch Precision Polymer DAT Trigger Kits

While the price tag on the Agency Arms is well worth it for the enhancements that trigger offers, some might not need that level of customization. That’s where the Overwatch Precision Trigger comes in. Effectively, this kit is the internal parts of their more expensive triggers, with a polymer trigger shoe to cut down on costs.

The result is a budget-friendly trigger that will provide a much better shooting experience when compared to standard Glock triggers.

4. Premium Option: Zev Technologies Pro Series

Pro Series Ultimate Trigger Kits for Glock

If what you’re going for is ultimate performance, this is the trigger you’re looking for. The Pro Series from Zev has modified face geometry and the snappy reset of a competition trigger with a lighter trigger spring which drops the pull weight considerably.

The clever thing here is that they retain the factory striker spring to maintain the Glock’s legendary reliability, which makes this suitable for duty and self-defense use as well. The Zev is a top-tier drop-in Glock trigger, and it’s designed for standard Gen 4 Glocks, making for a smoother trigger pull without the need to send your gun to a specialist.

5. Lightest Pull: Apex Tactical

Action Enhancement Trigger Glock Gen5

The standard Glock trigger isn’t bad per se, and you can absolutely find people who like its pull and feel. If that’s you, and you simply want something a little bit lighter, then the Glock Action Enhancement Trigger from Apex Tactical is what you’re looking for.

With a little less over-travel, a cleaner break, and about a pound less pull weight, the Action Enhancement Trigger is a simple aftermarket Glock trigger upgrade for duty use or concealed carry Glocks.

This isn’t recommended for someone looking to build a competition gun, or who wants a huge difference from a standard Glock trigger, but if you want to speed up the trigger reset, lighten the pull, and have a better shooting experience Apex Tactical’s Action Enhancement Trigger will give you all that and more.

Why upgrade your Glock’s trigger?

Like any tool, some things can be improved. Glock themselves admit this; which is why there are generational improvements worked into Glock designs every few years. One thing that some people, in particular competition shooters, find a little lackluster on the Glock is the trigger.

This is especially true of people who are coming to the Glock pistol from other formats, such as the 1911-style pistols offered by myriad manufacturers, known for the crisp trigger break that isn’t always there in stock Glock triggers.

Luckily, the Glock has massive aftermarket support, making it a widely modified firearm with a huge array of available upgrades.

This robust aftermarket means lots to choose from when it comes to drop-in trigger upgrades, and there are many reasons you might want to try a new trigger: the accuracy and feel of a handgun depend largely on the trigger pull, and the best Glock triggers give you more variety in everything from pull weight to pre-travel, post-travel, flat-face options and trigger reset. Plus many offer smooth action when compared to the stock trigger.

How a Glock Trigger Works

A stock Glock trigger works much like most other striker-fired firearm triggers, with a few safety features that make the pistol unique.

Assuming the pistol is cocked, when you press the trigger past the break it releases the striker, which strikes and ignites the primer, fires the chambered round and cycles the firearm, allowing the trigger to reset as you release it. Once the trigger resets, you can begin the cycle again with another trigger pull.

How a Glock trigger safety works

What makes Glocks innovative is their integrated trigger safety: that little blade in the middle of the trigger is a physical safety.

Without pressing this safety the trigger will not release the striker. When this innovative safety design first appeared on Gaston Glock’s original G17 in 1982, it was very different from common trigger safety designs of the time and is still considered one of the things Glock owners like most about their handguns. That trigger safety is the primary Glock safety feature and makes them less prone to accidental discharges.

The Glock firing sequence

The pistol simply won’t fire when dropped or absent compression on the trigger safety blade. Combined with a relatively heavy stock trigger pull weight, Glocks are also some of the safest handguns on the market.

The safety placement on Glock triggers makes finger control all the more important. Not only do you have to press the trigger in a way that leads to accurate shooting, but also in a way that seamlessly engages that safety.

Benefits to a Trigger Upgrade

1. reducing travel.

Adding a trigger kit to your Glock can help reduce pre-travel, over-travel, and lower pull weight. Pre and over-travel are the amounts of movement before and after the trigger breaks to release the striker. The more you can cut those down the more consistent your trigger pull will be, enabling you to shoot quickly without impacting accuracy.

This is especially true if the trigger kit you pick reduces pre-travel, which causes many shooters to adopt poor finger placement in order to compensate for the slop.

2. Improved Geometry

Additionally, some kits change trigger geometry: the standard Glock trigger is curved. Many trigger kits these days come with a flat-faced trigger, which many shooters prefer over the stock Glock trigger or options with a curved face.

3. Better Components

Most high-quality kits also come with more durable components, often made out of 7075-t6 aluminum alloy. These parts not only add longevity to the gun through wear and corrosion resistance, but they can also remove a lot of the travel inherent in a stock Glock trigger, making them a great drop-in upgrade for competition guns in particular.

4. Better Feel

In addition, trigger upgrades can be very useful for improving the feel of older Glocks, which may have chrome or nickel-plated stainless steel components (like the trigger bar connector) . These parts can wear through this plating off over time, and as friction removes layers of plating from the safety disengagement protrusion on the trigger bar it can impact feel and break dynamics, leading high round-count Glocks to feel less snappy than a stock trigger.

A simple drop-in trigger upgrade will reset the tolerances on many of these parts, but it well may be worth replacing the trigger bar and connector to get the most out of your trigger upgrade.

5. Improved Aesthetics

Some trigger kits offer aesthetic improvements as well. While this might be less of a consideration for self-defense or duty guns, a lot of competition shooters spend considerable time and money making their Glocks look unique, which is an important consideration for defining the best Glock trigger.

Use case matters!

What to Look for in a Replacement Trigger

There are a few things that you’ll want to keep in mind when picking Glock trigger upgrades.

1. The feel you want to achieve

First and foremost is the kind of feel you want to achieve. Ideally, you will have the chance to pop into a gun shop and try one out or borrow a friend’s gun and use that for a frame of reference before determining what makes for the best Glock triggers for you. The amount of pre-travel that any given trigger has only matters in the context of how you, the shooter, feel about it.

2. Improved Ergonomics

The same can be said of trigger geometry. These days, the flat-face trigger is very popular, and it’s clear why: they can be extremely crisp and help you shoot better. Other Glock fans prefer the standard profile of a curved trigger, and that’s fine too.

Flat Triggers vs Curved Triggers

When perusing the aftermarket trigger world, you’ll likely encounter two variations: flat and curved. There are reasons for considering both, but often it comes down to personal preferences.

Flat Triggers

Flat triggers offer two potential benefits: uniform contact and consistent trigger pull. With a flat trigger, your finger makes uniform contact with its flat, vertical surface. This helps produce an even feel because your finger won’t land in the exact same spot on the trigger with every shot, especially when you’re moving quickly or drawing from a holster.

It’s also helpful when it comes to finger placement for a variety of hands. Big hands sit lower than small hands on the same gun, so bigger hands often mean more trigger travel. That flat trigger plane gives you consistent pull no matter where your finger ultimately makes contact.

This consistent pull means consistent resistance, so a flat trigger breaks reliably even if your finger sits higher or lower on the blade.

Curved Triggers

Curved triggers have the advantage of shorter reach at the center of the trigger blade (trigger reach being the distance from the grip to the trigger face). This means that when your finger lands at the trigger’s center you have the shortest pull. The curved nature of the blade also makes locating the center relatively natural, so there’s little variation when it comes to finger placement.

3. Name Recognition

There aren’t too many objective standards when it comes to “the best Glock trigger”. One simple rule to help avoid disappointment is to make sure you only consider a trigger kit that’s from high-quality, reputable manufacturers. Agency Arms, Zev, and Apex Tactical are all great producers (and are included in our list below.)

Sticking with proven manufacturers means your kit is likely to perform to expectation, and there will be some kind of recourse if you are less than satisfied with the option that you do end up purchasing.

There are lots of great trigger kits out there, and we wouldn’t be shocked if you end up trying more than one: that’s part of the process of customizing a firearm and producing a better experience.

The One Tool You’ll Need

A quick note –to disassemble a Glock, you’ll need a good punch. Several companies make great ones that are designed specifically for Glock trigger disassembly. Factor one into your trigger upgrade budget and you will thank us later.

Additional Reading

• Alien Gear Holsters, Ben Hoober, Flat Trigger vs Curved Trigger: Is One Better Than Another?, November 20, 2019
• NPR, Fresh Air, How The Glock Became America’s Weapon Of Choice , January 24, 2012
• Robert Sandowski, Book of Glock , 2018

March 17, 2023 — We’re planning on testing Glock’s new OEM performance trigger , but for the time being we continue to stand by our picks. We’ve updated images and links where appropriate.

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OPTION #1 (SAFETY COLOR / MOD STYLE)

We offer a wide variety of safety colors to choose from. The Polished bar with pre-travel adjustment screw, allows the user to reduce the excess slop or travel, associated with the stock Glock triggers. Pre-travel is the travel the trigger takes before the break or release of the firing pin. Our DUTY CARRY triggers will NOT have the pre travel adjustment screw.

OPTION#2 (OC “ENHANCED” MOD)

This is our most popular modification we offer. This mod is great if you shoot a lot. What we do is we hand contour the safety tab so that it sits flush with the trigger shoe when depressed. With this option you will be able to shoot more with less soreness on your trigger finger. 

OPTION#3 (OVER TRAVEL ELIMINATOR)

The OVER TRAVEL ELIMINATOR is an OEM Glock trigger housing that we custom modify with an adjustable set screw. The OVER TRAVEL ELIMINATOR will allow the user to remove all the wasted movement after the firing pin has been released. Over Travel is the rearward movement of the trigger after the point of the release of the hammer/striker. It can hinder your follow thr

OPTION#4 (3.5# CONNECTOR UPGRADE)

Out of the box, the stock Glock trigger with a stock Glock connector will give you an average trigger pull of about 5.5LBS-6.5LBS. If you would like a lighter trigger pull, upgrading the connector is an integral part to achieve a lighter trigger pull.

OPTION#5 (SPRING PACK)

Tuning spring pack is designed to help tune (lighter) trigger pull and function in competition Glock pistols.

Self Defense / EDC springs is designed to eliminate light primer strikes. For self-defense and every day carry. 

OPTION#6 (GLOCK ORANGE ARMORERS HALF PLATE)

Original Glock half orange slide cover plate is a must have to do a complete armorers inspection. Used to check trigger linkage cruciform contact with firing pin. We recommend the orange half plate when installing the Over Travel Eliminator. If you happen to over adjust the Over Travel Eliminator, with the orange half plate, you will have access to manual

OPTION#7 (HIGH QUALITY GUN OIL)

To ensure a smoother trigger pull, we highly recommend using high quality gun oil with all trigger parts.

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Q:  What is the trigger pull weight on the triggers?

A:  Changing the trigger alone will not reduce the trigger pull weight. You will need to change your connector and trigger springs to reduce trigger pull weight.

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A:  The OC Custom Trigger will greatly reduce the "SLOP" associated with stock Glock triggers. The OC Custom Trigger will make the trigger pull smoother and crisper by reducing the extra travel before the trigger break.

Q: Why won't my  trigger reset?

A: The OC Custom Trigger is tested to work with GLOCK OEM connectors. Upgrading with aftermarket connectors may require fitting and tuning by a qualified gunsmith or Glock Armorer. DO NOT RUN YOUR TRIGGER SYSTEM  DRY ! ALWAYS USE HIGH QUALITY GUN LUBE OR OIL IN YOUR CUSTOM TRIGGER SYSTEM (e.i. TRIGGER BAR AND CONNECTOR). IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE!

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A: This OC Custom Trigger will greatly reduce pre travel only. Our "OVERTRAVEL ELIMINATOR" will greatly reduce and eliminate the overtravel.

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Gwrring rid of pretravel

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I just bought a Glock 17 and it's a fine weapon. A local Glock expert did a trigger job and set it up at just over 3 lbs. that's not too bad. I remember years ago I had mine set to 2 lbs and perfect helping me win a number of matches around here. The Glock holds up to thousands of rounds without malfunctions so now that I'm trying an auto again I figured I'd go back to what I know works. But I can't get used to the pre travel. What is the best trigger option that will eliminate pretravel. I've seen the Vanek and the Glockmeister but are they the best or is there something better?  

The Vanek kit will get you into the neighborhood of 2 pounds but will not reduce pre-travel. Nor should it, as pre-travel is good. Learn to use the trigger more like a 2-stage and your desire to eliminate pre-travel will disappear.  

The Glock trigger is a poorly understood piece of art. that pretravel (slack) is part of the intrinsic design (trigger movement over the firing pin safety) of the glock. You cannot get rid of it. But you can spend alot of money trying. Just learn it, and ignore it. Take the slack out before firing (as the gun is presented forward), smooth pull, not a hollywood wack, and learn the trigger reset point (which is very short), then there is no slack on followup shots. A qualified glock trigger artist is just as fast as any other gun.  

http://www.vanekcustom.com/2.html  

There are claims of doing this without an aftermarket trigger: http://glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?p=17198303#post17198303 http://www.glocktalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549549&highlight=Duck+Death+trigger+job for under $20  

....you will need to re-engineer the glock design. here ares some links that point to a "racing" the glock trigger. Notice the disclaimers. http://www.m4040.com/ShootingSports/GlockPages/GlockMods-Triggerjob3.htm http://www.m4040.com/ShootingSports/GlockPages/GlockMods.htm  

Yes, it can be done. Ducks method works very well and maintains all three safeties working as designed.  

Duck's method is not very well delineated, or seems to be piecemeal spread amongst various threads, almost like there's hesitancy in giving up the black arts.. Is there a succinct outline of the process somewhere (pictures would be nice, too)?  

cciman said: Duck's method is not very well delineated, or seems to be piecemeal spread amongst various threads, almost like there's hesitancy in giving up the black arts.. Is there a succinct outline of the process somewhere (pictures would be nice, too)? Click to expand...

*QUOTE* almost like there's hesitancy in giving up the black arts. OK, here's the dark secret...heat and bend the arm of the cruciform sear toward the barrel, then reslot the trigger safety. You've just eliminated the take up.  

This essentially reduces pretravel by limiting forward travel of the trigger. I tried that (bending cruciform trick), to about slightly <90-degrees- I was not impressed with the result. Made the trigger mushier up to release. Granted, I did not take it to the piont that I had to slot the trigger safety. (do you trim the trigger safety plastic- or the frame??) Can you post a pic of the slotting? If I look up into the magwell and watch the action of the trigger pretravel on the striker safety, i don't get how the striker safety is not turned off by limiting the forward travel of the trigger bar. By reducing the forward travel, I think that the striker safety button is in the sweet spot of the trigger bar- thus off.  

I brought mine out far enough to just make contact with the firing pin safety without depressing it.  

*QUOTE* do you trim the trigger safety plastic- or the frame??) Trigger safety. *QUOTE* I tried that (bending cruciform trick), to about slightly <90-degrees- I was not impressed with the result. This will aid in lightening the trigger pull. Smooth the contact surfaces, they're causing the mush.  

Try the fulcrum trigger package. Best trigger on the market!  

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Increasing pre-travel on a Glock trigger

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http://pistol-forum.com/showthread.p...t-trigger-quot In the opening post of the linked thread above, Nyeti mentioned having his striker-fired guns set up so that their triggers have additional pre-travel, as a safety measure, for use under extreme stress. Could someone tell me which parts in the Glock trigger system would require modification to bring this about, and what mods are done to those parts? Also, has anyone else done this and if so, what is your experience with it?

I'm not sure what his setup is. I am using the NY-1 trigger spring with the "-" connector. Gives firm resistance from the beginning and not such a hard wall at sear release point.

Originally Posted by Sotex I'm not sure what his setup is. I am using the NY-1 trigger spring with the "-" connector. Gives firm resistance from the beginning and not such a hard wall at sear release point. Thanks, Sotex. Nyeti wasn't sure of the details of the work, but indicated in his post that he had the work done by a smith who actually lengthened the pre-travel of the trigger. I've used the minus connector/NY1 TRS combination, and I like it, but it doesn't change the length of travel as far as I can tell.

I found some images via google which will explain one way to do it, by adjusting the slot in the trigger housing. pre-travel a small plastic can be used. make sure that its tight enough. doing this modification disables the trigger safety of your glock. putting too much block will cause your gun not to function and dissassembly problems Whoa, the guy appears to be gluing a bit of plastic into the hole to reduce pre-travel! So it seems that all you need is a file, to make the slot longer if you want more pre-travel.

Originally Posted by nycnoob I found some images via google which will explain one way to do it, by adjusting the slot in the trigger housing. Whoa, the guy appears to be gluing a bit of plastic into the hole to reduce pre-travel! So it seems that all you need is a file, to make the slot longer if you want more pre-travel. If I'm tracking, gluing in a piece of plastic will shorten the length of pretravel, but elongating the slot would increase it? I'm guessing that this would also increase trigger reach.

Originally Posted by Sotex If I'm tracking, gluing in a piece of plastic will shorten the length of pretravel, but elongating the slot would increase it? I'm guessing that this would also increase trigger reach. Thanks for finding that. I have seen several reports that putting material into the slot would shorten pre-travel. Has anyone lengthened the slot and if so, did that lengthen pre-travel? If so, it seems intuitive that it would increase trigger reach, too. Wonder if that has any other effect on trigger characteristics or on any of the safety functions.

I would be extremely hesitant to monkey around in this area without knowing exactly what I was doing. Kinda in the realm of welding up and recutting sear engagement surfaces. WAY out of my lane.

Originally Posted by Sotex I would be extremely hesitant to monkey around in this area without knowing exactly what I was doing. Kinda in the realm of welding up and recutting sear engagement surfaces. WAY out of my lane. I, as well, am extremely hesitant to do such work myself, especially if i don't fully understand all the possible things that can go wrong, and their consequences. Soliciting feedback from people with first-hand experience in this subject is part of gathering needed info and insight, and could help me pick the right professional to undertake such a project.

Originally Posted by oldtexan I, as well, am extremely hesitant to do such work myself, especially if i don't fully understand all the possible things that can go wrong, and their consequences. Soliciting feedback from people with first-hand experience in this subject is part of gathering needed info and insight, and could help me pick the right professional to undertake such a project. It's a very cheap part to experiment on. $10 or so.

Bert Gummer is my spirit animal

Originally Posted by Sotex I would be extremely hesitant to monkey around in this area without knowing exactly what I was doing. Agreed. IME - You have to be careful with the pre-travel adjustment because that's where the firing pin/striker safety is disengaged (drop safety). Triggers like the "Skimmer", IIRC, have been known to disable the drop safety. Video here: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...4/c0affc62.mp4

Last edited by JV_; 01-26-2014 at 12:07 PM .

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removing pretravel reduces trigger pull weight?

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So I have been playing around with removing pretravel by putting plastic spacers in the ejector housing ahead of the trigger bar and apparently it reduces trigger pull weight by about half a pound to 3/4 lbs. It seems to drop the stock 5lb firing spring to 3lbs of pull (use to be 3.5lbs) and the 4lb firing spring to 2.25 lbs of trigger pull (use to be 3lbs). These were all measured from the middle of the trigger with a trigger scale. Other mods are zev v4 connector and comp spring kit with a nice true mirror polish on all surfaces as well as the marine firing spring cups. Can't figure out why it reduces trigger pull weight but it does. This little mod dissables the trigger and drop safety but the firing pin safety is still fine and because this is just a range/target gun/experimental gun that is fine with me. I can get the trigger safety back if I wanted with shaving down the rear of the trigger safety but I don't see that I really need it. The sear is still fully covered by the firing pin so I don't think it will go full auto but I'll just be load 2 rounds at a time for testing. I also put a setscrew to take out overtravel which is nice. Either way I have another ejector housing which is stock which I will put back after I'm done playing/testing with it. Right now it has a total trigger travel of about 3/16 inch. I could probally get it down to a total trigger travel of 1/8 or less but I like the sear being fully covered by the firing pin nub (I have read 3/4 only needs to be covered for it to be safe). Either way, I love the way it feels right now.  

The drop and trigger safeties are there for a reason. The trigger safety is also there for reasons beyond just pulling the trigger inadvertantly. Here is some info from The Glock In Competition . PROTECT YOUR TRIGGER SAFETY Removing the trigger safety is a common tactic, but DO NOT let someone do that to your gun. The trigger safety doesn't act as a safety in the conventional sense. Sure, it helps prevent accidental depression of the trigger from the side, but its real function is to serve as a kind of backwards drop safety. The drop safety you see inside the slide works to prevent the striker from falling forward and setting a round off when the gun is dropped on its nose. The trigger safety works to keep the gun from discharging when dropped on its backside, muzzle-up. According to Armando Valdes, world-renowned Glock jockey Chapter 1-1 Triggers, Triggers, Triggers and armorer for Miami P.D., the trigger safety first came about after Glock did tests involving dropping the gun out of an airplane. When dropped from a height, the weight of the trigger mechanism was enough to pull the trigger to the rear and discharge the gun should the gun land muzzle up - even if the gun has a standard connector installed. In any shooting situation there is a risk that someone will drop a loaded gun. If all the Glock's safeties are working, that's not really anything to worry about, but if that gun has had the safeties deactivated, and that person is using a sexy low-travel, low-poundage trigger system they cooked up in their garage, look out.  

The Zev v4 connector lightens the trigger pull but adds a fair bit of pre-travel... Glockworx makes a trigger with a small pad to get rid of some of the pre-travel just for that reason... Very similar concept to what you are doing with the pads... Not sure what you mean by disabling the drop safety... If your pads pushed the cruciform back so far that they are sliding down the ramps, that is too far. I'd also make dang sure the striker safety is working, too... You can check it by looking through the magwell as you pull the trigger... Unloaded of course... Have fun, but be careful...  

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By Rolex September 29, 2013 in Glock

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Any way to shorten the pre travel using the stock Glock trigger.

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While retaining the factory center safety length & retaining function, without trimming: Not really

Most aftermarket triggers either weld-up the trigger bar or pin the factory safety to reduce pre-travel. So, I guess Yes you can shorten it using the factory Glock trigger.

- Easiest would be pinning the trigger to reduce the amount of forward movement & trim the rear of the safety . . . . Of course with it still retaining its designed function.

imho: I've had many triggers from various companies, done my own mods, but seem to prefer the factory bar, reduced connector- that still retains a crisp reset, and overtravel reduced. As long as the take up is smooth and I can roll through the break smooth, Im GTG. Then only up to reset and smooth back. . . . . Again, imho: Works for me.

My training gun(s) are my carry gun(s), My carry gun(s) are my training gun(s).

bigtimelarry

Glockworx sells a stock trigger bar with reduced pre-travel.

SPDGG, How much of a difference have you noticed with the Overtravel shortened up.

I have Vanek Triggers with the Overtravel shortened up right after the break and then I

have stock triggers with stock overtravel and the difference is hardly anything..

darkhelmet47

You can shorten pre-travel with a stock trigger bar, but it requires altering the trigger safety and depending on the amount you shorten the pre-travel it could render the striker plunger safety ineffective. I tinkered with mine by press fitting a piece of plastic in the front of the slot on the left of the striker block (when looking at it from the rear). The trigger came out really nice, but I had to file a little off the trigger safety to get it to work. It also kept the plunger depressed at all times. I didn't like having to alter the safeties so I returned it to stock pre-travel.

Be careful. A common way to take out the pre-travel is to set the trigger's start point so that it is simply further back. If done without careful consideration, this could completely negate the safety that is the system of the glock trigger action.

If you remove trigger pre-travel you can re-contour the cam on the trigger bar to delay disengaging of the striker block. With the the action cocked (empty chamber) and mag out, observe trigger bar's interaction with striker block plunger through mag well.

GlockTriggers.com has a couple of good triggers. The Skimmer has a clean break and adjustable pre-travel. The Vogel has a adjustable springs that let you set it up however you like it.

And, the drop safety leg?

Here is a way to do it

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

Here is a way to do it Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727

(question) for emjei:

After the pre-travel screw is installed is the trigger safety tab still functional or do you have to trim it shorter for it to function as a trigger safety?

I have to be honest....I saw that video but never tried to do it.

I think you will have to trim the safety a bit .....

the duck of death

Don't use a screw (and perhaps misplace it) ,heat and bend the front leg of the cruciform sear toward the front of the gun. Use a heat sink when you do this. It's easy to do and can be adjuated to get the pre travel you like.

If this is done the trigger safety MUST be altered to work correctly.

Don't use a screw (and perhaps misplace it) ,heat and bend the front leg of the cruciform sear toward the front of the gun. Use a heat sink when you do this. It's easy to do and can be adjuated to get the pre travel you like. If this is done the trigger safety MUST be altered to work correctly.

That will put more stress on the trigger spring ...doesnt it ???

No, I've got thousands of rounds through my Glocks and never broke a trigger spring. Actually stretching the trigger spring will lighten the trigger pull.

Can you post pictures how exactly its done ??

Sorry, no pictures.

Sorry, no easy fix for that...if you remove too much pre-travel the trigger bar will be "off the shelf".

I found for me the best way to alter pre travel is to drill and tap a 2-56 set screw use 425 loc tite to sure up into the trigger shoe which acts as a fulcrum aginst the trigger bar in the insertition slit then use a .35 hex wrench to adjust. then shave/snip the trigger safety till the bigger portion chunk is gone. There is still plenty of purchase on the tab to engage the frame as well as keeping the FPS plunger and the shelf drop safty in working order the surface area of the modfied TS is more than ZEV and other aftermarket trigger systems have . So you are well within tolerance. If it's a gen 4 somtimes if you use the comp 6lb trigger spring and a 4lb or less FPS spring the trigger will not re-engage so the TS tab pops back out. So you have to make sure the trigger shoe returns back to it's full forward resting position or you negate the TS by virtue of too much trigger spring tension. NEVER strech springs it hamppers their reliaibility. friend me on facebook johnnyglocks llc for pics and what not I'm new to this site but not to Glocks been tweeking them since mid 90's and am an advanced armorer. I would post pics here but I cant figure out hou too

Thus...NO SAFETY

Chaser_2332

I have seen a few mods in person similar to the above video, it did work well however I am a little hesitant to do it to mine. There seamed to be a fine line between it working really well and not resetting the trigger

I am not advocating removing so much of the pre-travel that it disables the drop safety. Provided you limit how much pre-travel you eliminate, the drop safety could still be functional. Besides, the Glock has several layers of safety.

The Series 80 Colt fp block safety is often disabled, the grip safety of many 1911/2011 gets pinned and the mag safety on many pistols are disabled. Why is the Glock so different?

Again, I am not advocating so much pre-travel removal that it disables the drop safety.

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Yekaterinburg-Ekspo

Explore near Yekaterinburg-Ekspo: Where to Stay, Eat, and Visit

Yekaterinburg-ekspo reviews: insider insights and visitor experiences.

The event began in 10.25, in 10.10 the cleaner still has his scene. That is, people were already in the hall, and the scene is not washed yet. Some thousands of people from the whole Sverdlovsk region were invited to the event, but slave ...

EXPO Center

It is a terrible idea to hold concert events there. What the organizers think. Only about financial benefit. Acoustics no. Parking is bad. If the event involves a large number of machines, then ...

Sting concert in Yekate

Beautiful atmosphere in Expo, convenient entrance, wardrobe diverse fast food cafes inside , almost no queues, organizers

Exhibition Center

This exhibition area of the Center Expo year after year becomes all better and better. Close to the city, convenient to get to the car. Good infrastructure. Children's trees, exhibitions and much more. And ...

Ekaterimble exhibition hall

Visited for an exhibition. It looks like a newly built building and is very modern. It feels like a large scale for an exhibition hall in a local city. It is far from the city, and if there is no car, there is only a bus or taxi, and access is inconvenient. When there are events such as large-scale exhibitions, there are cases where free shuttle buses come out from major hotels in the city or subway stations.

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