denali climbing tours

• Denali via the West Buttress
• Training & Preparation
• General Considerations

SO YOU WANT TO CLIMB DENALI?

An expedition begins long before you tighten your boots and begin hiking up the trail. Whether you’ve grasped it or not, you’re already in the thick of your Denali expedition and have made numerous decisions that will ultimately affect your experience in the Alaska Range.

Mountain Trip Alaska, LLC is an authorized concessionaire in Denali National Park. Mountain Trip has led guided Denali expeditions since 1976.

No other guide service has helped more climbers climb Denali.

WE’LL HELP GET YOU THERE.

Everyone comes home in good health, everyone has a great experience, everyone stands on the summit, you train = you win.

It takes a lot to climb Denali. Hone your mountaineering skills. Get some expedition climbing and winter camping experience, and start training now to build your fitness and strength.

PREPARATION

Good prep = good time.

Take your prep seriously, from the composition of your team to the route you attempt. Denali is a high-altitude, arctic mountain, but also an attainable objective and amazing experience.

Well-Equipped = Great Trip

Denali is not the place to discover your pack is too small, your boots are too tight, or your sleeping bag is too light. We’ll share the kit that we use and help you plan and pack for your expedition.

CLIMBING ROUTES

Denali is home to some of the most challenging alpine routes on the planet. Most climbers attempt the mountain by one of three routes: the West Buttress, the West Rib, and the Cassin Ridge. In the future we intend to expand this site to include beta on those routes; however, our initial focus is on the classic route that most climbers use to climb Denali—the West Buttress . This iconic mountaineering route is a modestly technical but physically demanding and mentally taxing endeavor. Many Denali climbers find this to be the most challenging expedition they have done in the mountains.

Learn From The Guides Who Know The Mountain Best

Our guide team has almost 50 years of institutional knowledge and collectively has climbed the mountain literally hundreds of times. They have learned a thing or two over the years—occasionally learning the hard ways—so that you don’t have to. Pick up some valuable tips from those who have spent ample time on Denali before embarking on your expedition. If anything is unclear or you’d like to learn more, feel free to drop us a note or give us a ring. We love sharing our knowledge and love for “The Great One.”

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Climbing Denali – Highest Peak in North America (Complete Guide)

Climbs & Mountaineering , Mountains , North America , Seven Summits , USA

Denali in Alaska is a beautiful US mountain that needs no introduction – its terrific size, beauty and remoteness attract alpinists from around the world. Climbing Denali successfully is an accomplishment as impressive as it is memorable.

Here's our complete guide to climbing Denali.

Climbing Denali

Denali overview.

Located in the Alaska Range and the prominent feature of the Denali National Park , Denali rests at an imposing 6,190m or 20,310 feet elevation above sea level. In fact, Denali literally translates to The Great One from the native Athabascan language.

Until 2015, it was officially called Mount McKinley. There has also been some historical controversy about its precise height. Despite these differences in opinion, everyone can agree that climbing Denali is a rite of passage for any serious mountaineer.

Denali is the highest peak in North America , the third most prominent of the famous Seven Summits .  It is also the third most isolated peak on Earth. It lies deep in the wilderness; 210km north-west of Anchorage, and 275km east of Fairbanks.

The first verifiable ascent to the summit was achieved in 1913, via the South Summit , by a group of four climbers. The first ascent via the West Buttress route , known to be the easiest and therefore most popular option, was only officially made in 1951.

Denali is characterised by two notable summits. The commonly climbed South Summit and the relatively neglected North Summit. The north summit is sometimes counted as its own, separate peak.

The mountain peaks are frozen over all year round, and even in the middle of summer the weather station records temperatures as low as -59.26F (-50.7C) with wind chill. 

Climbing Denali: Routes

Although Denali is not the highest peak in the world, it does have the highest elevation gain in the world (almost 5,500m). When climbing Denali, choosing the right route to tackle this formidable giant is critical.

West Buttress Route

Denali Basecamp (2,194m) is situated on the southeast fork of Kahiltna Glacier . From here, you will descend Heartbreak Hill to the main part of the glacier and up to the base of Ski Hill . 

The ascent of Ski Hill is the first major elevation gain, ending just below Kahiltna Pass . The climb then veers east, up a glacial valley to the base of Motorcycle Hill after which you will tackle Motorcycle Hill passing glorious views of the Fathers and Sons Wall and the Peters Glacier .

You will then climb Squirrel Hill to reach the Polo Field , a wide-open space at the base of West Buttress . From here, you will traverse around Windy Corner and continue to climb up to Genet Basin .

You will emerge from the northern side of the basin using fixed lines to the ridge of the West Buttress. Finally, to summit, you will climb along the Autobahn to Denali Pass .

Then, you will continue on the ridge line passed the Zebra Rocks and the Archdeacon’s Tower.

From Football Field , you’ll encounter six hundred vertical feet of climbing to the top of Pig Hill and the summit ridge.

After a final scurry along the ridge, you’ll arrive at South Peak , enjoy a quick celebration, and start the return journey down.

The West Rib is a more technical climb than the Standard West Buttress Route . The rib is a three-mile ridge that protrudes from the eleven-thousand-foot base.

The climb presents a full range of technical trials, including traversing precarious crests and scaling 55 degree faces.

This route boasts a nearly direct line from base to summit, a challenge which many find excitingly bold to take on.

Muldrow Glacier (North Side)

The most significant difference from the classic route is the walk in, as opposed to the convenient flight to Denali Base Camp enjoyed by the West Buttress Route hikers. 

Instead, parties walk (during summer) or ski (during winter) all the way in from Wonder Lake to the glacier. This is nearly a 140km walk, otherwise known as a warm-up for those tackling Denali.

The most common route through the park starts at Wonder Lake and heads down to McKinley River. It then follows the east fork of Clearwater Creek to Cache Creek and then to McGonagall Pass , which generally takes about 3 days.

You will then ascend the Muldrow Glacier , generally along its northern side to the Lower Icefall. Because of the continuously transformative nature of an active glacier, the pathways to its top and back down again are often very different.

At the base of the Great Icefall, you’ll turn left towards Karstens Notch, alongside Mt Carpe and Mt Koven and follow the ridge to a prominent step. The ridge then continues towards the Coxcomb section and onwards to the Browne Tower .

From the Tower , you’ll have to make your way northwards through Parker Pass to a passage through the first portion of icefall which is quickly followed by the next. Eventually, you’ll start heading south-east towards Denali itself.

At this point you quickly meet up with either the regular West Buttress Route , or you head north east and join the climb to the North Summit .

Typical  Itinerary For Climbing Denali

The following is a typical itinerary following the West Buttress Route.

This is a classic extended alpine mission, and as such the best way of tackling it is to leap-frog food and supplies and building robust camps.

Because of the erratic weather, it is important to be very flexible with your schedule, as it is possible that you will be waiting days on the mountain before your attempt your summit.

22 days for the expedition is usually more than enough time.

Day 1: Organise climbing equipment

The day is usually spent according to the procedure of your guide company. It will normally include organising, checking and packing your equipment and reviewing climbing skills as well as crevasse rescue techniques. Spend the evening in Talkeetna.

Day 2: Flight to Base Camp

Final informative talks with your crew, a final gear weighing session and a hearty final lunch – then you’re off!

The flight to Base Camp (7200 ft.)  is magnificent. After you land you’ll head to bed early for a fresh start the next day.

Day 3: Base Camp to Camp 1

The walk is 5.5 mile long with a relatively insignificant elevation gain, but you’re sure to be aching by the end of it. This gives you time to get used to the fit of your backpack and make friends with your group.

Camp 1 (7 800 ft.) is in a compression zone near the bottom of Ski Hill.

Day 4: Bury a cache by Kahiltna Pass

Day 4 is spent carrying a load of provisions 5 miles, up Ski Hill, to the foot of Kahiltna Pass (9700 ft.). You’ll walk back to Camp 1 with empty backpacks and lots of energy.

Day 5: Camp 1 to Camp 2

The move from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (11 000 ft.) is 4 miles with an intense elevation gain. Once you arrive in Camp 2, you’ll build a hardy fortress at the base of Motorcycle Hill to withstand potential storms.

Day 6: Bring all the gear from the cache to Camp 2

Today feels more like a rest day – it is spent carrying the gear from the buried cache to the new fortress.

Day 7: Bury a new cache around Windy Corner

On Day 7 you’ll carry half your equipment up Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill until reach a plateau after you turn Windy Corner. Here (13 500 ft.), the team will bury a new cache and then return to Camp 2. Look forward to incredible views of the surrounding mountains as well as of the Kahiltna Glacier down below.

Day 8:  Move to Camp 3 (14,200 ft)

Day 8 requires setting up shop even higher on the mountain. At this point, it feels like you are really reaching impressive altitudes as Camp 3 looks out to the peak of Mt. Hunter, which is at the same elevation.

Day 9: Gear to Camp 3; practicing on fixed lines

Day 9 will be spent fetching the gear from the 13,500 feet. cache and hauling it to Camp 3.

This is a relatively easy day.

Day 10: Carry loads to 16,500 ft

The route to the 16,500 feet. cache is up moderate slopes and then up fixed lines. The 900 feet of 45-degree snow and ice will be climbed using ascenders to self-belay, coming out on the ridge of the West Buttress. 

Day 11: Rest Day at Camp 3

Day 12: carry gear and ascend to high camp (17,200 ft).

Again, you’ll follow the fixed lines to the crest, and along the ridge for 600 feet towards Washburn’s Tower and on to Camp 4, which will lie on a saddle above the Rescue Gully.

Day 13: Rest day(s) at Camp 4

Here you will spend time waiting for the perfect weather to summit. Usually at least one rest day, followed by a number of possible waiting days for contingency.

Day 14: Summit Day

Summit day will start by crossing steep, snowy slopes to Denali Pass and then on to the Archdeacon’s Tower and a sprawling plateau known as the Football Field.

From here, you’ll climb moderate ground to the enticing crest of summit ridge and finally the last 300 feet to the highest point in North America. After savouring the achievement, you’ll return to High Camp for the night.

Day 15 -16: Return to Base Camp and Flight out

You’ll spend 2 days descending the mountain to Base Camp via the same (or a similar) route. The following day you’ll catch a flight back to Talkeetna from where you’ll be transported back to your hotel.

Best Time To Climb Denali

The conventional Denali-climbing season runs from May to July. Although generalisations might be helpful when planning your trip, the mountains are unpredictable and these observations should not be blindly relied upon. An expert on the mountain and a guide for 20 years has given the following advice:

Early season (Before 7 May)

• Temperatures colder at all elevations
• Less snow high up on the mountain
• Likely wind-packed snow at high elevations
• You’ll encounter fewer people (this can be great for the secluded feeling, but results in fewer people to serve as potential back-up in case of emergency)
• You will likely have to set up your own camps
• Lower glacier might have a lower crevasse hazard (depending on the year)Mid-season (7 May to 10 June):
• Warmer low on the mountain
• Snow will start falling at higher elevations (might be substantial amounts and result in avalanche hazards)
• The mountain will be busy with other climbers
• Move into pre-built camps. Less effort but the camps might be messy with other people’s waste
• Lower glacier typically relatively sturdy

Late season (After mid-June)

• Hot temperatures and potential rain on the lower slopes
• A lot of snow higher up which can be lovely, but adds to the avalanche risk
• Fewer other climbers
• Multiple established campsites to choose from
• Lower slopes can be very treacherous
• Overall, with there is no time of the hiking season that is definitively better than any other time, so it is best to weigh your options and personal priorities. 

How Difficult is Denali Climb

Much of the difficulty of the experience is incurred by the physical demands of carrying heavy backpacks, pulling sleds, setting up camps – all this at a relatively high altitude. Unlike 8,000m climbs , Denali does not permit porters to carry gear for paying mountaineers. 

So, you will be hauling your bulky gear and food up the mountain yourself. This could largely be mitigated by your rigorous training schedule, for which you should read below. Without adequate training, you simply will not manage.

The second major danger is the technicality of the mountain. Although the West Buttress is not known for its technical challenge, there are fixed lines which necessitate up to 800 ft. of scrambling on hard glacial ice.

The ground is at points steeper than 50 degrees, made harder by your backpacks and sleds. Crampons also add to the strenuousness of some of the climb, putting particular pressure on your calves.

Other important factors which add to the difficulty of the experience is the physical discomfort you will likely experience as a result of the extreme weather conditions. You should expect a mental challenge as well as a physical one.

How Dangerous is the Climb

As with any alpine giant, climbing Denali poses inherent risks. Although it is not as technically challenging as many Himalayan peaks , other factors add to the danger of Denali.

Firstly, the northern latitude and remoteness of the mountain adds to the danger of climbing it.

The peak is only 20,310 feet. above sea level, but this elevation feels a lot higher to climbers because of the extreme latitude.

Furthermore, while there are helicopters available for rescue missions, the mountain is remote and accessing a hospital could take several hours.

The weather on Denali is also notoriously unpredictable and snow storms and extremely low temperatures (-50 C) are a regular occurrence even in the middle of “summer”.

Every year, there are mortalities on the mountain, resulting from a fall or bad weather. In total, there have been over 100 deaths on Denali.

Acclimatisation

Any serious mountaineer will know about the effects of altitude sickness , and how important acclimatisation is. Fortunately, the climbing operators factor days into the climb especially for this purpose, so individuals generally do not have to worry.

However, it is helpful for every mountaineer to remember a few tricks to reduce the risk of the characteristic nausea, headaches and fatigue.

Firstly, it is important that you are familiar with the symptoms and the potential risks imposed by high altitude. Next, you should remember to keep hydrated, to avoid alcohol and drugs (even sleeping pills), and to alert your guide if you are feeling queasy.

If you are feeling uneasy or unwell, consult with your guide.

Read our guide on altitude sickness here .

Gear Check List

The gear list for Denali is largely similar to that required for other high-altitude, extremely cold climbs. 

While some of the heavy equipment you can rent, others are better bought especially for serious mountaineers. 

Different touring companies do, however, have their own personal preferences for equipment, so make sure you communicate regularly with your team adviser when you are buying your equipment.

Permits & Costs

To climb Denali, you are expected to apply for a permit 60 days in advance – although this may be part of your touring package so check just in case.

Flights from New York City to Anchorage: $700

Cost of tour companies: about $9,000 for a decent touring company, although prices range.

Getting There

The best way to get to Denali, assuming you are starting from Base Camp, is of course via Talkeetna, the quaint Alaskan village. It is from here that most tour companies will fetch you and transport you to Base Camp.

You can get to Talkeetna from Anchorage, via train (3 hours), bus (2.5 hours) or private car (2 hours). Anchorage has an international airport, so fly in here.

Training for Denali

Climbing Denali could be of one the most physically challenging challenges of your life: Only 50 % of those who attempt the ascent actually make it to its summit.  As such, committing to an effective training regimen to gear up for the adventure is critical.

One of the first prerequisites for being selected to climb Mount Denali, is that you have adequate mountaineering experience.

Denali demands its victors to have significant climbing experience in cramponing, walking on snow, self-arrest, crevasse rescue and glacier travel on a rope team.

Some tour guides have more stringent requirements even than these. Unless you can prove your proficiency in these skills in other ways, there are Prep Courses which are recommended to get your technique up to scratch.

In addition to completing technical climbing courses, most mountaineers who successfully summit Denali have also attempted at least two other peaks in the months prior to the trip.

Many appropriate training grounds can be found in Washington’s North Cascades, Rainier and on other locations in Alaska.

Generally, we recommend that mountaineers who do their training primarily in the Alps should complete at least one expedition in North America, as much of the terrain on this side of the world is markedly different to that you have become familiar with in Europe.

Although we recommend consulting your tour company’s team of experts for a detailed training structure, below are some general guidelines.

Training Objectives

• To be able to walk uphill, on snowy slopes for 8 hours a day, days on end, with 50 lbs of extra weight on your back and pulling 35-40 lbs on a sled.  
• To be able to recover easily from a day’s exertion enough to begin fresh the next day
• To be able to draw on physical and mental reserves if necessary for survival reasons

Training programmes for Denali generally require that prospective climbers start their training off a solid baseline of fitness, at least 6 months before departure.

The training will slowly be ramped up over the next half-a-year, and include aerobic training (such as running and cycling), strength work-outs and endurance training (such as cross-country skiing).

Training programmes for Denali generally require that prospective climbers start their training off a solid baseline of fitness, at least 6 months before departure .

Eventually, you will ramp up the frequency of your workouts to about 5 aerobic per week as well as 4 strength training sessions.  

For the aerobic workouts , you should focus principally on hill and/or stair climbing, carrying backpacks of at least 50 lbs. These should last at least an hour long.

For your strength workouts , it is important that you focus on a high number of repetitions with lower weights – you are aiming for impressive endurance and not muscular bulk.

Finally, to prepare, we recommend that you speak to other climbers about their experience. There is no better way to prepare yourself for the mental challenge ahead.

About the author 

Mark Whitman

Mark has trekked extensively in Asia, Europe, South America and Africa. He founded Mountain IQ in 2014 with the sole aim to be the best online information portal to some of the most popular mountain destinations around the world. When not writing for Mountain IQ, Mark is out exploring the outdoors with his wife!

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Hiya Mark, Thank you for the details. I recently started my mountaineering journey and Denali is definitely on my list to visit. I now have a good idea of what to except.

Hey Mark. I am 19 years old and I am so into hiking. I have no hiking experience, but I believe that I have the capabilities and the potential to do so. Since childhood, I have been an expert at climbing things- from rooftops to terraces, and from trees to huge heights, hoping that one day I could climb mountains. Can you please guide me on how I should begin my journey?

Hi Kirtan, I would start with doing some multi-day hikes. You can then try your hand at some high altitude hikes like Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania. If you like this, then perhaps you could do a few winter mountaineering courses and try climbing a peak like Rainier. You can then start taking on more technical high altitude peaks like Denali.

First, I would like to thank you for your article. It is well written with the basic requirements to prepare you for this monster of a mountain. I recently have fell in love with mountaineering and had a wonderful climbing season this past spring/summer. I had the chance to climb six peaks, Mount Whitney (Which was still snow covered), Mount Rainier, Mount Shasta, Mount Baker (which was a Glacier and Crevasse rescue course), Telescope Peak, and Mount Talloc. All were two climbers independently climbing, except Baker. I have come to realize that I have the mental strength to just go and though I am successful, my body takes a toll. I am curious on any tips to maintaining a healthy and effective recovery while on the mountain and advice on two climbers climbing Denali independently. Thank you in advance for your help!

Hi Norman, congrats on your recent summits! Unfortunately I’m not an expert on Denali. I recommend checking out this forum: https://www.summitpost.org/denali/150199

Mark, Great article! I started climbing the Colorado 14rs two years ago. It has become one of my greatest passions and I would like to take on a greater challenge. I don't have much experience Mountain climbing but plan to climb this summer and do more than just hike. The 14rs haven't been much of a challenge but I will continue to do 3-4 every summer until I hike them all.

I want to know how much experience I will need to climb Denali? I am 61 years old but in excellent shape (Marathon runner and avid snow skier)

Is it possible for me to pursue a Mountain like Denali or am I too late in getting started? Or too old?

Thanks for any advice or encouragement you can provide. LC

Hi Luke, thanks for the feedback. I don’t think you’re too old, but you may want to start on some smaller peaks like Rainier or other glaciated Alaskan peaks. Hope to this helps. Best of luck!

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Denali Expedition Alaska  •  20,310'  •  6190m Expedition Details Dates and Prices

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IMG Covid-19 Vaccine Policy

IMG Denali West Buttress Expedition

IMG Denali's guides and expeditions are fully booked for the upcoming 2021 season. If you would like to be wait listed for 2021 (in case of a cancellation) or discuss joining one of our 2022 Denali expeditions, please contact IMG Denali .

Denali is the tallest mountain in North America and one of the most coveted of the fabled Seven Summits. In 2024, IMG Denali will conduct eight scheduled expeditions via the West Buttress Route. If a custom expedition would better suit the needs of you and your team, we offer Custom Programs for private teams of one or more climbers, please reach out to us directly for further details.

Denali is the tallest mountain in North America and one of the most coveted of the fabled Seven Summits. In 2025, IMG Denali will conduct five scheduled expeditions via the West Buttress Route. If a custom expedition would better suit the needs of you and your team, we offer Custom Programs for private teams of one or more climbers, please reach out to us directly for further details.

IMG Denali's owners were some of the first to guide on Denali back in the 1970's, and our current Denali guides share our thirty-five years of IMG company culture for safety, summits, and great customer service. Unlike many of our competitors, at IMG Denali, expeditions will be structured at a higher guide ratio of 1 guide per 2 climbers with a maximum 8 climbers led by 4 guides. This 2:1 ratio provides our teams with additional flexibility and a higher level of support.

We are available for personal consultation throughout the planning stages of your expedition. IMG Denali was created with the philosophy that a personal touch and attention to detail is integral in creating a successful expedition, especially one as serious as Denali.

Denali is one of the most physically difficult climbs of the Seven Summits . Unlike many of the others, on Denali there are no porters to help you carry loads. You will be responsible for your personal equipment and your share of the group gear, food, and fuel. Climbers generally begin the expedition with approximately 120 pounds per person, split between your sled and backpack and as such, it is imperative that climbers be in excellent physical condition. There is no easy way off the expedition once it begins. The Park Service only allows helicopters for true emergencies, so you cannot call for a helicopter pickup because you do not wish to continue. Please plan on coming prepared for the conditions ahead. We recommend that climbers participate in an Expedition Prep Seminar to better anticipate the conditions ahead.

The IMG Denali guides are chosen for their past experience, but that is just one part of the equation. They are often the same guides leading our Himalayan, Vinson, South American, and Rainier programs. Joining these guides on Denali will allow you to continue a relationship that you have built with them on other programs, or to start building a rapport with guides prior to a Himalayan climb, Vinson expedition, or one of our many other expeditions.

International Mountain Guides, LLC provides booking services for IMG Denali, LLC, an authorized concessioner of Denali National Park and Preserve.

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• AMS Denali West Buttress Expedition

Denali West Buttress Expedition

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Advanced (Alaska Grade II) 20,310′/6,190 m 22 days 6 climbers : 3 guides Price: $12,100 per climber

West Buttress All Women 22 Days Max: 6 climbers, 2 guides Price$12,100 per climber

West Buttress Small Team 22 days Max: 4 climbers: 2 guides Price: $16,100 per climber

Expedition Details

Women’s Expedition

Full disclosure: AMS believes that the West Buttress of Denali is the greatest climbing route in the world. Denali is a mountaineer’s mountain; it is serious and challenging. The West Buttress route is characterized by massive snow-covered glaciers, exposed ridges, and breathtaking views that change every day. As we gaze at the mountain from Talkeetna, we are constantly reminded of the many great experiences it has given our climbers and us over the years.

The West Buttress was first climbed by our close friend Dr. Bradford Washburn. He and AMS director Colby Coombs wrote the definitive guidebook on how to climb every step of the way ( Denali’s West Buttress: A Climber’s Guide to Mt. McKinley’s Classic Route , Mountaineers Books). In choosing AMS for your guided climb of Denali, you will be joining the company known for being the best on the mountain. More importantly, our zero-tolerance policies regarding negligence have kept AMS climbers injury-free. These, and many other reasons, contribute to AMS having the highest success rate on Denali.

“I would advise anyone anywhere to use only AMS if they want to achieve any Alaskan target such as Denali. I normally work with a mountaineering outfit that is top in the UK and they are useless compared to AMS.” — Sir Ranulph Fiennes, British Explorer

Please check our blog for the most current climber position availability on our 2023 Denali E xpeditions.

West Buttress Route Small Team 22 days Max: 4 climbers: 2 guides Price: $16,100 per climber

May 9 – May 30, 2024 May 13 – June 3, 2024 May 16 – June 6, 2024 May 23 – June 13, 2024 May 27 – June 17, 2024 May 30 – June 20, 2024 June 3 -June 24, 2024 June 6 – June 27, 2024 June 10 – July 1, 2024 June 13 – July 4, 2024

West Buttress Route Small Team May 20 – June 10, 2024

Small Team Women’s Expedition June 3 – June 24, 2024

What's Included

• AMS professional mountain guides
• 2 nights Talkeetna lodging pre-climb
• Ground Transport one-way between Anchorage and Talkeetna
• National Park Service mountaineering special use and entrance fees
• Base camp fee
• Roundtrip glacier flight
• Expedition food, including lunches
• Group camping and climbing equipment (tents ropes, snow/ice protection, kitchens)
• Emergency supplies (maps/ GPS, radios, satellite phone; repair, trauma and drug kits)
• Pre-rigged custom sleds
• 24/7 support during the expedition from AMS headquarters
• Knowledgeable advice for training, equipment, and travel
• Regular updates on social media during the expedition
• Copy of the books, Denali’s West Buttress: A Climber’s Guide, by Colby Coombs and Glacier Mountaineering by Tyson & Clelland

AMS Denali guides are talented mountain climbers and educators who meet our high standards for employment. The typical AMS Denali guide team consists of one lead guide, one assistant guide, and one training guide. AMS lead guides have logged an average of 12 years climbing Denali and other high-altitude peaks. They exhibit exceptional leadership skills, and bring considerable, noteworthy expertise in mountain medicine and rescue experience to the expedition. Assistant guides have multiple years of personal and professional climbing experience, and many meet the qualifications to lead. Training guides are experienced climbers with a guiding background; they are hand-selected so that they can advance their career with AMS. Anyone working for AMS has been carefully screened for their climbing ability, work ethic, trustworthiness, and passion for teaching. All incoming guides become part of an ongoing internal training program and are referred to AMS through a network of mountain professionals.

For a mountain like Denali, climbing in traditional expedition style, by leap-frogging supplies and building fortified camps, is the best way for most people to reach the summit. The frequent storms on the West Buttress require patience, a flexible schedule, and enough on-mountain resources. This climb is a marathon, not a sprint. We plan on 22 days for this trip, which in most cases is more than enough time. Occasionally persistent storms require that we extend the expedition.

12:45pm: An AMS vehicle can pick you up at your hotel within 5 miles of downtown Talkeetna and transport you and your equipment to AMS. Please notify AMS if you need a ride. 1:00pm: Meet at the AMS office in downtown Talkeetna for group orientation, gear check, and expedition lunch packing. Store all equipment at AMS. 4:00pm: Organize individual glacier travel equipment (your “glacier rig”) and review AMS glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques required for Denali.

6:00pm: Free evening in Talkeetna. Most of the lodging in Talkeetna is within easy walking distance.

8:00am: Meet at AMS for a National Park Service Denali briefing. We will take a short walk over to the NPS Ranger Station from AMS.

9:30: Glacier travel review: review skills, fine-tuning systems; ascending out of AMS’s simulated crevasse, and using Z-pulley hauling systems. 12:30pm: Hearty lunch served at AMS. 1:30pm: Final gear packing, weighing everything for glacier flight, and loading AMS van for short drive to airport. 3:00pm: Flight to 7,200-ft base camp. Distance: 60 miles, elevation gain: 6,850 ft. Arriving at basecamp is awe-inspiring, with Mt. Hunter rising above at 7,000 ft. This is the biggest elevation gain of the entire trip, and everyone will feel it. It is best to rest and get to bed early in preparation for an early start when snow conditions are firmer.

Move to 7,800 ft: Camp 1; distance: 5.5 miles, elevation gain: 600 ft. The first day is always big, as backpacks settle in and we get accustomed to traveling roped. We gain very little elevation over a long distance. “Big crevasses” is the phrase of the day. We camp close to Ski Hill in a compression zone and enjoy the last sheltered camp on the mountain.

Carry to 9,700 ft, Kahiltna Pass; distance: 5 miles (RT), elevation gain: 1,900 ft. The day’s job is to carry light loads and bury a cache. Walk back to camp with empty packs, which is a stroll with beautiful views that span 30 miles down-glacier.

Move to 11,000 ft, Camp 2; distance: 4 miles, elevation gain: 3,200 ft. This is a big day, and we will all know we are climbing a mountain when we arrive at camp. We’ll build a fortress here to protect us from the notorious storms that roll through during the few days we’ll be in residence.

Back carry to 9,700 ft.; distance: 2 miles (RT). This feels more like a rest day and it’s nice to stretch our legs.

Carry to 13,500 ft, around Windy Corner; distance: 3.5 miles (RT), elevation gain: 2,500 ft. Windy Corner is a large guard gate to the Upper Mountain. The gate opens and closes with the fickle weather. Performing a carry allows us to stick our noses in it even if we are not sure. We can always bury the cache sooner and turn back to camp if the weather worsens.

Move to 14,200 ft, Camp 3; distance: 2.75 miles, elevation gain: 3,200 ft. Rolling into 14,200 ft feels like we are leaving the lower mountain behind and entering a new environment. 5,000 ft of the south face rises above us. When you look out you are at the same level Mt. Hunter’s summit.

Back carry 13,500 ft cache; distance: 2 miles (RT), elevation gain: 700 ft. We earn a leisurely pancake and bacon breakfast with real maple syrup––then another restful back carry. We’ll set up a simulated fixed line and practice passing anchors while in camp.

Carry to 16,200 ft; distance: 2 miles (RT), elevation gain: 2,000 ft. We’ll carry all our supplies for high camp to the top of the fixed lines and bury them on the lee side.

Rest day or possible move day, depending on weather and the group’s strength.

Move to 17,200 ft, Camp 4; distance: 1.75 miles, elevation gain: 3,000 ft. Leaving 14,200 ft and arriving at 17,200 ft is one of the best days of the entire climb: awesome views on the ridge looking 10,000 ft down to the Peter’s Glacier. We will build another bomber camp and know we will sleep soundly.

Rest day/acclimatization/weather contingency day at 17,200 ft, Camp 4. Most teams need a rest day after moving from 14,200 ft.

Days 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19

Plenty of possible summit days, 20,310 ft; distance: 5 miles (RT), elevation gain: 3,120 ft. We must push ourselves on this 10- to 12-hour summit day, harder than any other day, while maintaining our priority of getting back to camp without incident. Patience required.

Return to 14,200 ft; distance: 1.5 miles, elevation loss: 3,000 ft. Our bodies will feel wrecked, but going downhill makes it manageable. We arrive at 14,200 ft and typically spend a well-deserved night’s rest.

Return to base camp, 7,200 ft; distance: 12.25 miles, elevation loss: 7,000 ft. We sleep in and have a two-hour brunch. After a relaxing day, complete with naps, we pack up and descend as evening approaches. We arrive at base camp around 4am, enjoying cool temperatures and firm snow bridges. We catch a couple hours of sleep in an open bivy.

8:00am: First flight back to Talkeetna. The van will be waiting for us to bring us back to AMS, where we’ll feast on fresh watermelon and other fruit. We’ll store luggage, de-issue rental equipment, and help with your lodging or travel arrangements.

As an advanced climb, Denali’s West Buttress requires a significant amount of prior climbing experience and training. The better condition you are in, the more you will enjoy the climb, the safer it will be for you, and the better chance for reaching the summit. This mountain is too severe to be learning some skills for the first time. Applicants should be in excellent physical condition and should have the following experience:

• Mountaineering climbs that required roped glacier travel, winter snow camping, and the use of an ice axe and crampons.
 Winter camping and travel experience for extended periods of time. This is essential training, since cold on Denali is a daily challenge.
• Familiarity with the figure-eight knot series, rope coiling, and belaying with a munter hitch
• Ability to arrest a fall on a steep snow slope
• Ability to use crampons with a 65-plus pound pack on slopes up to 30–35°. Some sections of the route require you to bend down and clip through running belays.
• Experience on smaller climbs such as smaller peaks in the Alaska Range, winter climbs of Mt. Washington, Colorado 14’ers, Mt. Rainier, the Tetons, or Mount Blanc.

A non-technical, high-altitude climb is a great way to train for the altitude. Our best-prepared expedition members have taken a mountaineering course and trained for a year or more before joining an expedition.

Courses & workshops to help you prepare for this expedition, depending on your level of experience and goals:

Denali Prep Course 

Mountaineering & Hike Out

6-Day Mountaineering

12-Day Mountaineering

Denali Skills Workshop

Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Workshop

Ice Climbing Workshop

AMS should be considered THE Denali Guide Service. The Talkeetna location and facilities, excellent guides and long running Denali history set AMS ahead of the rest .—Jack Tolan

AMS has the right stuff—a logistical pyramid that is second-to-none, and phenomenal guides who are personally committed to your success. Nobody can give you a better high-altitude experience!— Tom Dougherty

Choosing AMS proved to be the right decision. Guiding experience, meal preparations, itinerary all contributed to our team’s ability to achieve a summit in a year when most teams did not. AMS’s resources significantly helped us reach the summit.— Brad Skorepa, 2012

AMS has an excellent team of staff, and their base in Talkeetna is a huge advantage. The guides could not be better —Srilakshmi Sharma

AMS’ local presence in Talkeetna gives it a built-in edge over the other guiding companies on Denali —Darrel Koehling

AMS was rock solid from the pre-expedition planning and office staff, to food prep/pantry, store, transportation, etc. This is the most straightforwardly run operation I have encountered and I applaud all the hard work that AMS puts into making these expeditions ‘priceless’ to us as climbers!  — Tom Moore

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Climb Denali

Climb Denali with our team in 2025. Denali in Alaska is one of world’s most extreme mountains. Our Denali expedition is only for people with extensive mountaineering experience.  Feel free to call us about this exciting adventure to climb one of the 7 summits. Upcoming trip .

Denali is Not Easy

The climb typically involves a 3 week expedition, requiring climbers to navigate through glaciers, crevasses, and steep ice and rock sections. The West Buttress route is the most popular, offering a gradual ascent, but climbers must be prepared for extreme cold, high altitudes, and potential hazards.

Show up Physically Prepared

Proper preparation is essential, including physical conditioning, technical skills in ice and snow, and acclimatization to altitude. Climbers often spend several weeks on the mountain, acclimating to the thin air and adjusting to the challenging conditions.

It’s crucial to be well-equipped with appropriate gear, such as insulated clothing, mountaineering boots, and specialized equipment for glacier travel. Many climbers hire experienced guides or join guided expeditions to enhance safety and increase the chances of a successful summit.

In summary, while Denali’s climb is undoubtedly difficult, it offers a unique and awe-inspiring adventure for those with the necessary skills, experience, and determination.

Joining Us on Denali

Climbing Denali is on every 7 summiteers mind and one of the hardest mountains to climb for a range of reasons. Cold temperature, carrying heavy loads, being self sufficient all make for a challenges and rewarding mountaineering experience.

Climbing Denali on the West Buttress route has become the main route of choice for most Denali ascents, due to its relative ease of access and flights into the national park. We only allow people to join our teams that we have seen in action on a range of peaks.

Training for Denali

Denali Climbs

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Denali West Buttress - Virtual Tour

South side route overview.

American Alpine Institute guides three routes on Denali, at 20,310 feet (6190 meters) the highest peak in North America. The standard and most commonly climbed route, and our most frequently guided climb on Denali , is the West Buttress. The West Rib is substantially more difficult, and the Cassin Ridge is among the world's most classic hard alpine routes, with steep ice and technical rock climbing at altitude.

History of Denali and the West Buttress

The West Buttress route on Denali was first surveyed and eventually pioneered by Bradford Washburn on assignment from the Boston Museum of Science. Washburn and company were the first people to climb the West Buttress and did so in July of 1951, establishing what is now the normal or most popular route on the mountain, and a classic expedition climb in its own right.

The first ascent of Denali's lower North summit was made in 1910 by a group of prospectors who undertook the climb as part of an elaborate and well funded bet that they were too old and out of shape to climb such a mountain. The higher South summit was reached in 1913. The first winter ascent of the mountain didn't occur until 1967. The account of this historic feat is detailed in the book Minus 148 Degrees , by Art Davidson, a member of the climbing party.

In each of the following sections, you will find a summary of the route, including elevation gains and distances as well as photos from each portion of the route. We hope you enjoy learning more about this incredibile expedition and mountain.

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Go to main page for AAI's Denali Climb

Virtual Tour Route Sections

• Denali Route Overview
• Anchorage and Talkeetna
• Southeast Fork Base Camp
• Lower Kahiltna Glacier
• Camp 1, 7800'
• Camp 2, 11,200'
• Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, and Windy Corner
• Camp 3, 14,200'
• The Fixed Lines and the Ridge to High Camp
• High Camp, 17,200'
• Denali Summit Day

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20,310ft / 6,190m Alaska

Denali expedition day to day itinerary.

Our Guide Kristie Kayl is a force of nature and a wellspring of invaluable information. She’s got the right stuff and from day 1 of our trip I felt lucky to be on her team. Kristie’s leadership skills and judgment got us up to the top and down the mountain safely. Kristie never talked down to anyone and always presented information and suggestions in a manner that was easily digestible. Facing a challenging weather and timeline scenario at the end of our trip, Kristie was our ace in the hole and I attribute the success of our summit bid to her leadership. AAI’s food situation was way better than I expected and apparently better than most other guided groups on the mountain, at least based on conversations that I had with other climbers. I didn’t know that AAI had a reputation for having the best food on Denali, but this seems to be the case. We had some great and really well-prepared meals under the circumstances and no one ever went to bed hungry.

Please note the below is a sample itinerary, due to the nature of climbing Denali.  There may be delays/accelerations due to weather and in the field guide decision-making. It is important to keep schedules flexible, as we will take extra days or combine days if necessary to give everyone the best possible chance of success.  All itineraries subject to flight delays in/out of Talkeetna.

Day before your climb begins

Travel to Anchorage and arrive by 4:30 p.m. Climbers must make their own arrangements with a shuttle service and book lodging near Talkeetna. Please see the Denali Logistics Page for details.

Meet at the Alpine Ascents Office at 8 a.m. (we will transport climbers from our selected hotel to our offices). After introductions, orientation, and final gear check, if conditions allow we will board a ski-equipped aircraft and fly to Base Camp on the S.E. Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (7,300 ft.). The flight to Base Camp is marvelous, presenting outstanding views of a variety of peaks including Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter, and the Moose’s Tooth. Upon arrival, the group prepares our Base Camp. (Note: Guides may perform a glacier travel review on this day.)  If conditions do not allow for a flight into Base Camp, the expedition will lodge overnight in Talkeenta.

Glacier travel review. We’ll carry gear to our intermediary camp (approximately halfway to the traditional Camp I). This gives us a chance to get an easy start and let you sort out any adjustments in gear and sled-pulling setup. This is important, as we will be pulling sleds for the next eight days.

Carry loads to Camp I (7,800 ft.). Snowshoes may be necessary between camps on the lower part of the mountain.

Carry loads to cache between 9,800 and 10,000 ft. (Camp II) and return to Camp I. The route this day ascents a slope called “Ski Hill,” which flattens out as we approach Camp II.

Our carry today depends on snow/weather conditions and how the group is feeling. We’ll either ascend back to our cache and camp for the night or continue on to 11,200 ft. (Camp III.) Camp III is located in a small cirque at the base of Motorcycle Hill.

We’ll carry all our gear to Camp III.

We’ll carry half our gear up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hill and then traverse a long gradually rising plateau to Windy Corner. We’ll continue on around this narrow corner for a few hundred yards to make a cache (at approximately 13,500 ft.) and return to Camp III. This day provides stunning panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and the northeast fork of Kahiltna Glacier, 4,000 feet below.

Move to Camp IV (14,200 ft.).

Descend to our cache at 13,500 ft. and carry to Camp IV. This is an easy day as we’ll descend 700 ft., pick up our gear, and return to Camp IV.

We’ll carry loads to 16,500 ft. and return to Camp IV. We’ll ascend 1,100 ft. of moderate snow slopes to reach the beginning of the fixed lines. Using ascenders on the lines to self-belay, we’ll climb the Headwall, which consists of 900 feet of 45–50 degree snow and ice up to the crest of the West Buttress. From there, the climb takes on an entirely different nature with views that fall off in both directions several thousand feet below us.

Rest Day at Camp IV.

Carry and move to High Camp (Camp V, 17,200 ft.). We’ll again ascend the fixed lines and follow the exposed ridge 600 feet up around Washburn’s Tower, and on to Camp V, which we establish on a saddle just above the Rescue Gully. It overlooks Camp IV 3,000 feet below.

Rest day. Rest and prepare for the summit attempt.

Summit day. We traverse across a steep snow face to Denali Pass. From here, we’ll follow gentler slopes to reach Archdeacons Tower and a large plateau at 19,400 ft., known as the “football field.” From the plateau, we’ll ascend moderate terrain to the crest of the summit ridge, where we’ll look down upon the immense 8,000 ft. South Face, with Cassin Ridge and the South Buttress in full view. Once on the summit ridge, excitement grows as we’ll climb the last 300 feet to the top of North America. From the summit, we’ll have a 360 degree view of the entire Alaska Range, with Mt. Hunter and Mt. Huntington to the south and Mt. Foraker to the west. These peaks, along with scores of others, make this mountain view one of the most impressive in the world. After taking photos, we’ll descend to our High Camp.

Return to Base Camp. From High Camp, we spend two days returning to Base Camp, where we will board a plane and return to Talkeetna.

Extra days, for inclement weather, rest and acclimatization as needed.

Please plan to depart from Anchorage the day after your climb ends after 1:30 p.m.

Note : Due to the nature of climbing Denali, there may be delays/accelerations due to weather and guide decision-making. It is important to keep schedules slightly flexible, as we will take extra days or combine days if necessary to give everyone the best possible chance of success. A detailed logistics package will be forwarded to each team member upon receipt of application. Our staff will work closely with all Denali climbers.

Alpine Ascents is an authorized concessioner of Denali National Park and Preserve.

Alpine Ascents is an authorized mountain guide service of Mount Rainier National Park

The expedition has been a great experience in every way. All the factors that intervene in this program make it figuratively an incredible experience for a lifetime. The landscape, strong and great leadership of the team of guides make the expedition to Denali something that can be fully enjoyed.

Denali BLOG

Denali Webinar

Dominating the already immense landscape of the Alaska Range, Denali “The Great One ” is the tallest mountain in North America, rising a lofty 20,310’ above Denali National Park.  Mountaineers flock from across the globe to test their strength and climbing prowess on this ultimate alpine test piece.  If you have Denali on your list […]

Denali: A Photo Essay

by Brooke Warren Denali “The High One” is the third highest of the seven summits, right behind Everest and Aconcagua, at 20,310 feet. It is an “ultra-prominent” peak with soaring vertical relief of 18,000 feet, greater even than Mount Everest (a mere 12,000′ of vertical relief) when measured from its 2,000-foot lowlands to its lofty […]

Dear Alpine Ascents: Insulating Ice Axe Handles?

Hey Alpine, I’m headed up to Denali this May (!!!!) and I heard that climbers insulate their ice axes? Interesting… What’s the rationale and how do I do it? Thanks in advance and see you in Talkeetna! Sincerely, Seeking Toasty Mitts Hi Toast Mitts, Thanks for reaching out and stoked you’re headed up to the […]

WHY BOOK WITH ALPINE ASCENTS

Knowledge & expertise.

Alpine Ascents International leads expeditions that have become benchmarks of quality in the climbing community. We operate what we believe is the finest mountaineering school in the country. This expertise is based upon years of accumulated experience-not just from individual mountain guides, but through experience on particular mountains where details are fine-tuned over time.

Our guides are an integral part of Alpine Ascents because they understand and share our climbing principles. These individuals are dedicated to sharing their excellence with others. Many of our guides have been with Alpine Ascents for over five years, with a handful of veterans working with us for most of their careers. The quality of our Guide Staff is the primary difference between us and our competitors.

Environmental Reponsibility

Leave No Trace principles are fundamental to our program, and we encourage all who climb and trek with us to understand proper wilderness practices. We help facilitate this effort by passing on Leave No Trace training and literature to every Alpine Ascents climber.

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Climb the Magnificent Denali

May through July

Anchorage is 4 hours away

Up to 24 days

Intermediate to advanced

Things to know

As one of the Seven Summits and the highest peak in North America, it’s no wonder so many mountaineers dream of standing at the top of Denali at its 20,310 feet. Also called Mount McKinley, Denali is located in the Alaskan Range and has over 100 years of climbing history. Enjoy the vistas of braided rivers and colorful ridgelines, and cross tundra-covered valleys as you reach jagged snowy peaks. There are five popular routes to the top, but the West Buttress is the least technical and most classic option. Denali is a challenge even to the most experienced climbers, but the views are unparalleled, and the feeling of triumph as you reach the summit is beyond compare. Although the weather is unpredictable, the load heavy, and the winds extreme, many choose to embark on this endeavor and cross it off their bucket list. An experienced guide and enough contingency days make your chances of reaching the top higher, while good preparation, endurance, and top physical shape ensure you have the best experience possible.

Considered North America’s most classic climb, it rises over 20,310ft

The spectacular West Buttress is one of five challenging climbing routes

The third most prominent peak on Earth after Everest & Aconcagua

Climbing Denali is on every climber’s bucket list but it is also one of the most difficult mountains to climb due to cold temperatures, carrying heavy loads, and extreme winds. The West Buttress of Denali is the Classic route for mountaineers looking to summit Denali. This is the usual route due to its relative ease of access — start your climb at 7,200 feet on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and continue onto the West Buttress proper. Finally, on summit day, follow a jaw-dropping knife-edged ridge to the highest point in North America! Join a professional and experienced guide that will always put your safety first and help you make the most of this daring and spectacular expedition.

This is the itinerary for the classic route that may change due to inclement weather or other unplanned obstacles. There are five other routes, each more difficult than the other. If you are interested in climbing one of these routes, contact us prior to booking and we will make arrangements.

You should arrive in Anchorage early enough to make the 10 A.M. meeting with your guides, which may require arriving a day in advance. After a short meet and greet, you’ll have an expedition orientation and equipment check.  This trip includes two night’s accommodation at the Lakefront Anchorage Hotel that is conveniently located and has a free shuttle service from the airport.

Join your guides for a 2-hour drive to Talkeetna and stop for coffee and snacks along the way.  Once in Talkeetna, unload your gear, organize, and weigh all of the equipment and supplies in preparation for your flight to the glacier.  Finish the registration process with the National Park Service and attend a pre-climb orientation provided by one of the NPS Climbing Rangers.  After finalizing all the NPS admin steps, fly to the glacier, weather permitting.  Once on the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, establish your camp for the night.

Depart the base camp, and drop down the infamous Heartbreak Hill and onto the broad Kahiltna Glacier. Your goal will be to move camp to about 7,800 feet, near the junction with the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. This is a moderately tough day of about 5 miles and is a good shakedown for the upcoming days. Throughout the expedition you will typically follow the “climb high, sleep low” technique for better acclimatization. On the late May and June expeditions, you may climb early in the morning to avoid excessive heat and soft snow conditions on the lower glacier.

Quick Stats: 8 km / 5 miles with 365m / 1200’ of elevation gain  

Climbing time: ~ 4.5 – 6 hours

Head out of 7,800′ camp and carry loads up the 1,800′ Ski Hill. Several options exist for campsites between 9,000 and 11,000 feet, depending upon weather, snow conditions, and team strength. This is a moderately difficult carry of 7-9 miles round trip, with 2,000 – 3,000 feet of elevation gain and a return to 7,800′ camp for the night.

Quick Stats: 12.87 km / 8 miles round trip, with 670m / 2200’ of elevation gain and loss 

Climbing time: ~ 6 – 8 hours

The second camp is usually in the 11,000’ basin at the base of Motorcycle Hill. This is an incredibly beautiful location that basks in alpenglow when the sun travels around the north side of the mountain.

Quick Stats: 7.64 km / 4.75 miles one way, with 1036m / 3400’ of elevation gain  

Climbing time: ~ 5.5 – 7 hours

This is an “active rest day” during which you’ll drop back down and pick up the cache you left near Kahiltna Pass.This gives you another day to acclimatize before moving higher.

Quick Stats: 2.4 km / 1.5 miles round trip, with 365m / 1200’ of elevation loss and gain 

Climbing time: 1.5 hours round trip

Spend your day climbing with crampons and an ice axe that gets you around Windy Corner where the upper mountain comes into view. Have your camera ready — steep snow climbing up the 1,000′ high Motorcycle Hill rewards climbers with spectacular views. The total distance for the day is about four miles round trip with a little over 2,000 feet of elevation gain. 

Quick Stats: 6.43 km / 4 miles, with 700m / 2300’ of elevation gain  

Climbing Time: ~ 6-7 hours round trip

Day 8 is usually a long and difficult day. The next camp is located at the well-equipped 14,200 feet camp in the expansive Genet Basin. Loads are getting lighter and the air is getting thinner. Upon arrival, the whole group will help build the camp and fortify the tents due to the possibility of severe winds.

Quick Stats: 4 km / 2.5 miles, with 914m / 3200’ of elevation gain 

Climbing time: ~ 5 – 7 hours

This is another “active rest day” during which the team will descend from Genet Basin to the Windy Corner cache and bring everything up to 14,200 feet. Spend the afternoon going over climbing techniques that you’ll use in the upcoming days.

Quick Stats: 1.6 km / 1 mile round trip, with 213m / 700’ of elevation loss and gain 

Climbing time: ~ 1.5 hours round trip

The goal of the day is to climb up the Headwall and cache supplies up on the ridge above and return to 14,200 feet. Climbing up this section with fixed lines makes this one of the more strenuous days of the trip because of the steep terrain, heavy pack and thinning air. The views as breathtaking as the rarefied air will make it all worth it!

Quick Stats: 3.8km / 2.4 miles round trip, with 670m / 2200’ of elevation gain and loss

Climbing time: ~ 5-7 hours

Take a rest/acclimatization day prior to moving up to High Camp.  Many climbers feel this day really helps their acclimatization. Spend the day relaxing and hanging out with your group.

Weather and team strength will again determine this decision. While there is a campsite at 16,100 feet, it is very exposed, so the ultimate goal is to push for the 17,200 feet site which is more secure and the better choice for camp. This is a really tough day — your loads are big and some of the terrain is risky. Still, you’ll enjoy a day of awesome climbing along the ridge. Weaving in and out of the rocks and occasionally walking a knife edged stretch, combined with big exposure, make this day one of the most memorable of the route.

Quick Stats: 3.21km / 2 miles, with 914m / 3000 feet of elevation gain 

Moving to 17200 ft and establishing High Camp make for a strenuous day, so day 13 is usually used as a rest day before attempting the summit.  Circumstances could be such that you do not take this rest day, but if possible, the guides prefer to take it.

This is the day you’ve been waiting for! If the weather is favorable, you’ll push for the summit. It is important to be patient on a big peak like Denali and only try for the summit when the weather is good, mostly clear and calm. Your guide staff is the most experienced on the mountain and your guides will make this sometimes difficult decision. The round trip climb will take 8 to 12 hours or more. After a hearty breakfast, depart camp early (7-10 A.M.), climb up to Denali Pass (18,000’) and follow the route past Arch Deacon’s Tower and the Football Field to the slopes leading to the Summit Ridge. If the weather permits, enjoy the views over the Ruth Glacier with beautiful peaks such as Moose’s Tooth, Mt Huntington and Mt. Hunter.

Quick Stats: 8km / 5 miles round trip, with 914m / 3000’ of elevation gain and loss 

Climbing time: ~ 9 – 12+ hours

Note: The weather needs to be good and everyone attempting the summit must have demonstrated that they can reasonably give it a shot. This is often the most grueling day of the expedition. The guides have the ultimate decision as to when the team will make a summit bid. The guides also have the discretion to decide that a team member has not shown that he or she is capable of making a summit bid. Such occurrences are rare but remember — getting everyone home safe and healthy is the primary concern.

The descent from High Camp takes from one to two days, depending on the team’s strength and motivation to get home. The descent can beat you up more than the ascent. Weather dictates when you’ll be able to fly out to Talkeetna for food and showers. Not much beats a steak and salad at the West Rib Tavern after climbing Denali!

There are seven “contingency days” built into the schedule. Denali has a well deserved reputation for arctic weather and it is common to take weather days at some point on the mountain.

Your guide will provide group transportation back to Anchorage and you can make plans to fly home as early as this evening. Lodging after the climb is not included in the trip cost, but your guides will be happy to assist you with finding the best lodging in the area. Transition from the intensity of the mountain to the relative “big city” life of Anchorage and enjoy the post-climb beers as you talk about your experience with your group!

Meet your guides

57hours is committed to providing safe outdoor adventure experiences. We require all guides using our platform to have a COVID-19 safety plan and to make the details of that plan accessible to travelers. In most cases, group sizes will be reduced, guides will avoid overcrowded locations, and other safety measures will be met depending on the location and activity. 

We also expect clients to respect local regulations and take measures to protect themselves, guides and the communities they’re travelling to. For more information on COVID-19 measures in Denali, Alaska, please refer to Alaska’s Department of Health and Social Services website.

Please contact us if you have any questions or require further information. We are happy to provide you with the most up-to-date information!

What you get on this adventure:

• An experienced, local rock-climbing guide with extensive knowledge of the area
• Up to 22 days in the field 
• Unlimited pre-trip access to our office resources
• Up to two nights lodging (shared room) at the Lakefront Hotel in Anchorage before your climb and airport transfer as provided by the Lakefront Hotel
• Group med kit, satellite phone, GPS tracker, etc.
• Uphill Athlete 24 week Mountaineering Training Program
• All technical climbing gear
• From Anchorage to the glacier and back to Anchorage
• Round trip shuttle to and from Talkeetna 
• Air Taxi flight to and from the glacier
• All the group gear — tents, stoves, ropes, snow pickets and sleds
• Food and snacks

Meals may contain such entrees as pad thai, chicken burgers with blue cheese and burrito night for dinner and french toast, omelets with bacon and chilaquiles for breakfast. Lunches are a combination of snacks on the run and more structured, sit down affairs. If you have any dietary restrictions, contact us prior to booking to make arrangements.

What’s not included:

• Transportation to Anchorage
• Any additional lodging including post expedition lodging
• Personal clothing and equipment
• Meals while not on the mountain
• Travel and/or rescue insurance
• Mountaineering permit ($275 for climbers 24 years old and younger, $375 for climbers 25+ years old) 
• Denali National Park entrance fee ($15)

The West Buttress route on Denali is not considered the most technical alpine climb, but it is a difficult mountaineering route where you need to have basic alpine climbing skills and excellent fitness. These can be learned on just about any introduction to mountaineering course. Don’t underestimate the challenge — you will be on steep terrain for hours, and your skills with crampons and ice axe self arrest, etc. are important for the safety of you and your team. You should be able to demonstrate a high degree of familiarity with basic mountaineering techniques such as the rest step, French Technique, front pointing, running belays, and roped glacier travel techniques.

You need to be in very good physical condition to climb Denali. Summit day shouldn’t be maxing out your strength and endurance, it should be well within your comfort zone. So many variables are out of your control (weather, etc.) and you need to be sure that you can manage the ones that you can control. Climbing big mountains is primarily an endurance event, but you do need strength as well. You’ll often leave base camp with 50+ pound (22+ kilogram) packs, and drag almost as much in a sled behind you. You should train with a pack as a part of your training regime so that your body can adapt to it. 

Experience on a couple of other mountains prior to going to Denali will also help you understand where you are physically. Expeditions that you may want to consider before attempting a Denali climb are Mount Superior in the Wasatch Mountains and Aconcagua, the highest peak in S. America . This is a great chance to get expedition experience in high altitude in a much friendlier environment than Denali.  

Note : Guides may decide not to take climbers up Denali if their skill level or fitness are deemed inappropriate during the climb.

Denali is not for first-time climbers or mountaineers. It is a technical and physically demanding climb at high altitudes that will enable you to move on to even bigger objectives, but you must already have completed a mountaineering course and several climbs. 

If you’re new to alpine climbing, there are plenty of options to prepare you for an expedition like this. Mount Superior in the Wasatch Mountains make for a great training ground to get the experience to move on to an expedition of this level.

All technical and camping group equipment will be provided by your guiding service. You’ll need to bring:

• Alpine climbing harness with a locking carabiner, belay device, and chalk bag
• Prussik cord (25-30 feet of 6mm-7mm accessory cord)
• Double length (48″) runner
• Climbing hardware (carabiners, quickdraws, cam devices, stoppers, etc.)
• Ski/trekking poles

Only bring good gear that is in very good condition, as it will all get tested, perhaps to the extreme!

Here’s a list of the clothes equipment we suggest you bring:

• Lightweight down fill booties
• Mountaineering socks
• Custom insole
• Mountaineering boots
• Expedition down parka
• Base layer top
• Light fleece hoodie
• Puffy light insulated jacket
• Hard shell jacke
• Soft shell wind jacket
• Vest (optional)
• Base layer bottoms
• Light fleece bottoms
• Soft shell pants
• Hard shell waterproof pants
• Puffy insulated expedition pants
• Heavyweight gloves
• Medium weight gloves
• Lightweight gloves
• Summit mittens (thick, warm mittens made from synthetic fill)
• Liner gloves (60 second gloves)
• Buff / Neck gaiter
• Several sets of hand-warmers
• Ski goggles
• Glacier sunglasses

Here’s what you’ll need for camping:

• Sleeping bag, pad (foam and inflatable) and liner
• Compression stuff sack
• Backpack for expedition ( a minimum volume of 85L)
• Large duffel with a zipper (90 – 100L), lightweight, waterproof
• Stuff sacks (for your clothes and personal items)
• Cache bag (a very large stuff sack 30L + capacity)
• Two 1L water bottles
• Insulated bottle cover
• Spork and a small knife
• Large plastic bowl
• Insulated cup or mug
• Toiletries (sunscreen, bug spray, toilet paper, etc.)
• P-Bottle / Pee funnel 
• Toilet Paper (1-2 roles in ziplock bags)
• Camera — optional
• Battery for your electronics

Dress comfortably and for the weather in clothes you can move in. We suggest bringing clothing appropriate for the season. Layers are best and don’t wear jeans.

Group sizes and prices:

• The guest to guide ratio for  this climb is 2:1. Your group can be as large as 6 people with 3 guides.
• Cost is per person and it doesn’t decrease as the group grows.

Min. age requirements:

• If you are older than 18, you’re good to go.
• Minors younger than 18 may be permitted to climb on a case-by-case basis, but must be in the presence of a parent or legal guardian.

If your group has climbers under the age of 18 , contact us prior to booking to make arrangements.

All Denali expeditions require a $2500 deposit to secure a spot on the team. Your submission of a deposit constitutes your acceptance of this Fee Schedule, Refund and Cancellation Policy. The deposit includes a non-refundable $1500 administration fee.

Final payments for expeditions must be received 120 days prior to the adventure. Failure to pay expedition fees by the date they are due constitutes cancellation of your spot on the team and forfeiture of your deposit. If you register for a climb within 90 days of the trip, expedition fees will be due in full to secure your spot on the team.

To get to Denali National Park, most people fly into Anchorage International Airport (ANC). You will meet your guides there on the first day at 10 A.M.

Once you and your guide agree on the details of your itinerary, your guide will suggest the best place to meet. 

Any cancellation 120+ days before your trip will be refunded in full, less the administration fee. If you cancel 120-90 days before your trip, you are eligible for a refund of 50% of any money paid, less the deposit. No refunds will be provided for cancellations occurring within the last 89 days prior to an expedition. 

Your guides reserve the right to cancel an expedition prior to the departure date for any reason. In such an event, all money for that expedition shall be refunded. 

For the 2022 Denali season , your guides require that all climbers are fully vaccinated prior to departing for Anchorage. A person is considered fully vaccinated greater than or equal to 2 weeks after completion of a two-dose mRNA series or single dose of Janssen vaccine. All climbers joining Mountain Trip Alaska for expeditions in Denali National Park and Preserve will be required to sign a COVID-19 Declaration stating the following:

• You are fully vaccinated against the COVID-19, and;
• You are not displaying any symptoms of COVID-19 , and;
• You are not waiting for the results of a COVID-19 test, and;
• You agree to comply with all Mountain Trip Alaska COVID-19 specific guidelines and protocols.

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North America’s Highest and Most Impressive Peak

Denali is North America’s high­est moun­tain and one of its most impres­sive in terms of sheer mass, weath­er and climb­ing his­to­ry. The clas­sic West But­tress Route requires only inter­me­di­ate tech­ni­cal climb­ing skills; but per­se­ver­ance, intense phys­i­cal exer­tion, team­work and patient acclima­ti­za­tion are all nec­es­sary for this climb. Many climbers find this to be the most chal­leng­ing thing they have done in the mountains.

The Alas­ka Range by any mea­sure is sure­ly among the great­est ranges in the world. To get a birds eye view of the range from your flight onto the glac­i­er and the start of the climb is absolute­ly stunning.

Description

From the town of Tal­keet­na, we fly to the South­east Fork of the Kahilt­na Glac­i­er Base Camp sit­u­at­ed between the spec­tac­u­lar peaks of Forak­er and Hunter. From there the route is under­tak­en ​ “ expe­di­tion style” — car­ry­ing high and sleep­ing low, in a series of four camps.This unfor­get­table climb has long been regard­ed as a world-class expe­di­tion chal­lenge, com­pa­ra­ble to the Himalayan giants, and must of any high alti­tude climber.

Moun­tain Mad­ness pro­vides these ser­vices as a book­ing agent for an autho­rized con­ces­sion­aire of Denali Nation­al Park.

Qualifications

Giv­en the rig­ors of this expe­di­tion, we require that you have proven high alti­tude expe­ri­ence, tech­ni­cal pro­fi­cien­cy, and excel­lent phys­i­cal fit­ness. You should be famil­iar with extreme cold, tent liv­ing, expo­sure to steep ter­rain, and more. Mem­bers should be able to ascend and descend fixed lines inde­pen­dent­ly and be pro­fi­cient with cram­pon­ing on steep ice/​snow slopes. 

For those with min­i­mal moun­taineer­ing and/​or any high alti­tude expe­ri­ence a log­i­cal pro­gres­sion might look like this:

• Par­tic­i­pate in a moun­taineer­ing course in Bolivia, Ecuador or Peru
• Denali Prep Course in Mount Rainier Nation­al Park
• Aconcagua ascent
• Nun Peak or Pik Lenin ascent

Have a Question? Contact Us!

• (800) 328-5925
• [email protected]

$12,200 – 22 Days

Sin­gle Sup­ple­ment (I want my own room in Anchorage) – $660

Price Includes

• Guide ser­vices
• Denali Nation­al Park entrance and climber fees
• Two sched­uled nights in Anchor­age at the Lake­front Hotel (dou­ble occupancy) 
• Sched­uled ground trans­porta­tion from Anchor­age to Talkeetna
• Flight from Tal­keet­na to/​from base camp
• All meals while on the mountain
• All group equip­ment ((tents, kitchen, ropes, sleds, snow pick­ets, shov­els, group med kit, satel­lite phone, GPS track­er, etc.)

Price Does Not Include

• Air­fare to/​from Anchorage
• Accom­mo­da­tions post trip in Anchorage
• Accom­mo­da­tions in Talkeetna
• Per­son­al climbing/​camping gear and clothing
• Meals while stay­ing in Anchorage/​Talkeetna
• All per­son­al items/​expenses
• Trav­el insur­ance with trip can­cel­la­tion, med­ical and evac­u­a­tion policy
• Guide/​Staff Gratuities 

Payment Schedule

• $3,000 deposit upon con­fir­ma­tion of your eli­gi­bil­i­ty to join the expe­di­tion, which includes a $2,000 non-refund­able reg­is­tra­tion fee 
• Bal­ance due 120 days pri­or to departure
• Pay­ments can be made by check, wire trans­fer, ACH or cred­it card with a 3% con­ve­nience fee.

Denali 2025 - Please double check with us for possible openings on sold out dates

• May 4, 2025 — May 27, 2025
• May 8, 2025 — May 31, 2025
• May 12, 2025 — Jun 4, 2025
• May 16, 2025 — Jun 8, 2025
• May 20, 2025 — Jun 12, 2025
• May 24, 2025 — Jun 16, 2025
• May 28, 2025 — Jun 20, 2025
• Jun 1, 2025 — Jun 24, 2025
• Jun 5, 2025 — Jun 28, 2025
• Jun 9, 2025 — Jul 2, 2025 Sold Out
• Jun 13, 2025 — Jul 6, 2025 Sold Out
• Jun 15, 2025 — Jul 8, 2025 Sold Out
• Jun 17, 2025 — Jul 10, 2025
• Jun 19, 2025 — Jul 12, 2025

Cancellation / Refund Policy

• MMI strong­ly rec­om­mends trip cancellation/​interruption and evac­u­a­tion insur­ance for all trips . Our insur­ance part­ner, Rip­cord , offers com­pre­hen­sive trav­el insur­ance includ­ing trip can­cel­la­tion, as well as rescue/​evacuation poli­cies and can assist in answer­ing any ques­tions. In addi­tion, Par­tic­i­pant is expect­ed to have suf­fi­cient med­ical insur­ance as pre­scribed by their coun­try of ori­gin. Par­tic­i­pant under­stands that MMI does not include any type of insur­ance with the cost of the trip.
• If you decide to can­cel your trip or change your itin­er­ary, MMI must be noti­fied in writ­ing. Your trip will be can­celled from the date writ­ten notice is received. If prop­er writ­ten can­cel­la­tion notice is not received, amounts paid and reser­va­tions made will be forfeited. 
• Non-refund­able fees may apply for cer­tain trips in order to secure per­mits and oth­er ser­vices. MMI must strict­ly adhere to can­cel­la­tion poli­cies out­side MMI’s control. 
• Due to the per­son­al­ized ser­vice we offer on our trips, MMI reserves the right to waive any fees. We will attempt to accom­mo­date changes and can­cel­la­tions, waiv­ing cer­tain fees when feasible.
• Cir­cum­stances out­side the con­trol of MMI and its part­ners, may require amend­ed cancellation/​refund poli­cies. Such cir­cum­stances may include, but are not lim­it­ed to COVID-19, nat­ur­al dis­as­ters, ter­ror­ism and so forth.

Trips with Spe­cial Con­sid­er­a­tion (Carsten­sz, Cho Oyu, Denali, Logan and Vinson):

• Full refund, less the non-refund­able deposit/​registration fee, will be pro­vid­ed 121 days or more before the depar­ture date
• No refunds will be pro­vid­ed 120 days or less before the depar­ture date

Trip Insurance

We strong­ly rec­om­mend the pur­chase of trav­el can­cel­la­tion insur­ance to pro­tect you from the unex­pect­ed. You aren’t like­ly to think of it now, but peo­ple do get ill, break a bone, have a fam­i­ly emer­gency or get assigned to a last-minute busi­ness trip. If you are in remote areas, please note that emer­gency res­cue & evac­u­a­tion can be very expen­sive.

We also strong­ly urge you to con­sid­er res­cue and evac­u­a­tion insur­ance if your own pol­i­cy does not pro­vide the cov­er­age need­ed. Ser­vices avail­able may include, but are not lim­it­ed to, heli­copter evac­u­a­tion, med­ical care, etc.

If you choose not to pur­chase insur­ance, you assume full respon­si­bil­i­ty for any expens­es incurred in the event of a med­ical emer­gency and/​or evac­u­a­tion, as well as for trip can­cel­la­tion, inter­rup­tion, lost lug­gage, etc. We are not the experts and there­fore ask that you please con­sult our trav­el insur­ance part­ner direct­ly with any spe­cif­ic questions.

To pro­tect against loss­es due to ill­ness, acci­dent, or oth­er unfore­seen cir­cum­stances, Moun­tain Mad­ness strong­ly rec­om­mends the pur­chase of trav­el insur­ance as soon as pos­si­ble after mak­ing a deposit. Moun­tain Mad­ness has part­nered with Red­point Res­o­lu­tions as our pre­ferred trav­el insur­ance provider. Redpoint’s Rip­cord Res­cue Trav­el Insur­ance™ is designed for adventurers. 

For a quote, or to pur­chase trav­el insur­ance, please click this link Rip­cord Res­cue Trav­el Insur­ance™ or call +1 – 415-481‑0600. Pric­ing varies based on age, trip cost, trip length, and lev­el of coverage.

Crit­i­cal ben­e­fits of Rip­cord Res­cue Trav­el Insur­ance include:

• A com­plete­ly inte­grat­ed pro­gram with a sin­gle point of con­tact for emer­gency ser­vices, trav­el assis­tance, and insur­ance claims
• Evac­u­a­tion and res­cue ser­vices from your point of injury or ill­ness to your hos­pi­tal of choice
• Com­pre­hen­sive trav­el insur­ance for trip cancellation/​interruption, pri­ma­ry med­ical expense cov­er­age, bag­gage loss or delay, emer­gency acci­dent and emer­gency sick­ness med­ical expense, emer­gency den­tal, acci­den­tal death and dis­mem­ber­ment, and more
• Option­al secu­ri­ty evac­u­a­tion cov­er­age in case of an unplanned nat­ur­al dis­as­ter or oth­er secu­ri­ty events
• Waiv­er for pre-exist­ing con­di­tions (must be pur­chased with­in 14 days of tour deposit)
• Option­al ​ “ Can­cel for Any Rea­son” cov­er­age (must be pur­chased with­in 14 days of tour deposit)

Flight Information

Group mem­bers fly into Anchor­age, Alas­ka and must be present for the team meet­ing at 10 am on Day 1. This is a very impor­tant meet­ing, which you must attend! Be sure to arrive in Anchor­age ear­ly enough to make the meet­ing; which may require arriv­ing a day early. 

Denali Day by Day

Team meet­ing at 10 am for an expe­di­tion ori­en­ta­tion and equip­ment check. Includ­ed in our expe­di­tion fees are two nights lodg­ing before the expe­di­tion at the Lake­front Hotel in Anchor­age (for­mer­ly the Mil­len­ni­um Alas­ka Hotel), which is con­ve­nient­ly locat­ed and offers free air­port shut­tles. We also pro­vide trans­porta­tion with­in Anchor­age to pick up last minute items on the day of our team meeting.

Tal­keet­na and Base Camp

Ele­va­tion: 7,200 ft / 2195 m

We pro­vide our own shut­tle ser­vice for team mem­bers to trav­el sev­er­al hours to Tal­keet­na. Every­one will need to reg­is­ter with the Nation­al Park Ser­vice pri­or to fly­ing to the glac­i­er. Weath­er per­mit­ting; we will fly into the Kahilt­na Glac­i­er at 7,200 feet that after­noon. Once on the glac­i­er, every­one will need to pitch in to get Base Camp estab­lished so we can pro­ceed with our on-glac­i­er expe­di­tion ori­en­ta­tion that will cov­er the fol­low­ing top­ics: glac­i­er trav­el, crevasse res­cue, sled rig­ging, rope man­age­ment and camp site procedures.

Ele­va­tion: 7,800 ft / 2377 m

Depart­ing base camp, we’ll drop down the infa­mous Heart­break Hill and onto the broad Kahilt­na glac­i­er. Our goal will be to move camp to about 7,800 feet / 2377 meters, near the junc­tion with the NE Fork of the Kahilt­na Glac­i­er. This is a mod­er­ate­ly tough day of about 9 miles round-trip and is a good shake-down for the upcom­ing days. Depend­ing on the team and weath­er we may or may not car­ry loads and return to Base Camp. Through­out the expe­di­tion we will typ­i­cal­ly fol­low the ​ “ climb high, sleep low” tech­nique for bet­ter acclima­ti­za­tion, how­ev­er the alti­tude dif­fer­ence between Base Camp and 7,800′ Camp is min­i­mal enough to per­mit us to gen­er­al­ly ​ “ sin­gle-car­ry” this stretch. On the late May and June expe­di­tions, we may be doing our climb­ing ear­ly in the morn­ing to avoid the exces­sive heat and soft snow con­di­tions on the Low­er Glacier.

We’ll head out of 7,800′ Camp and car­ry loads up the 1,800′ Ski Hill. Sev­er­al options exist for camp sites at 9,000 — 11,000 feet / 2743 — 3353 meters, depend­ing upon weath­er, snow con­di­tions and team strength. This is a mod­er­ate­ly dif­fi­cult car­ry of 7 – 9 miles round-trip, with 2- 3,000 feet of ele­va­tion gain and a return to 7,800′ Camp for the night.

Ele­va­tion: 11,200 ft / 3414 m

Our sec­ond camp is often in the 11,200’ basin at the base of Motor­cy­cle Hill. This is an incred­i­bly beau­ti­ful camp that basks in alpen­glow when the sun trav­els around the north side of the mountain.

This is an ​ “ active rest day” dur­ing which we drop back down and pick up the cache we left down near Kahilt­na Pass. It also helps give us anoth­er day to accli­ma­tize before mov­ing higher.

Haul Loads Around Windy Corner

Ele­va­tion: 13,300 ft / 4054 m

Steep snow climb­ing up the 1,000′ high Motor­cy­cle Hill rewards you with spec­tac­u­lar views. The total dis­tance for the day is about 4 miles round trip with a lit­tle over 2,000 feet / 610 meters of ele­va­tion gain. Fun climb­ing with cram­pons and ice axe gets you around Windy Cor­ner where the upper moun­tain comes into view-have your cam­era ready!

Ele­va­tion: 14,200 ft / 4328 m

This is usu­al­ly a long, hard day. Our next camp is gen­er­al­ly locat­ed at the well equipped 14,200’ camp in the expan­sive Genet Basin. Loads are get­ting lighter and the air is get­ting thin­ner. Hope­ful­ly every­one will have enough ener­gy left to help get camp in as we need to for­ti­fy this camp due to the pos­si­bil­i­ty for severe weather.

This is anoth­er ​ “ active rest day,” dur­ing which the team will descend from Genet Basin to the Windy Cor­ner cache and bring every­thing up to 14,200 feet. We’ll spend the after­noon going over climb­ing tech­niques that we will use in the upcom­ing days.

Climb up the Head­wall to the Ridge / Camp 3

Our goal is to cache sup­plies up on the ridge above us and return to 14,200 feet. Climb­ing up the Head­wall (the sec­tion of route with fixed lines run­ning from 15,500 to 16,100 feet) with a heavy pack is one of the more stren­u­ous days of the trip because of the steep ter­rain, heavy pack and thin­ning air. The views from the ridge can be as breath­tak­ing as the rar­efied air!

It is often pru­dent to take a rest/​acclimatization day pri­or to mov­ing up to High Camp.

Move to High Camp

Ele­va­tion: 17,200 ft / 5243 m

Weath­er and team strength will again deter­mine this deci­sion. While there is a camp­site at 16,100′, it is very exposed, so we usu­al­ly push for the 17,200‘ site which is more secure and the bet­ter choice for camp. This is a real­ly tough day, as our loads are big and the ter­rain is steep in sec­tions. Rewards for our work are in the great climb­ing along the ridge. Weav­ing in and out of the rocks and occa­sion­al­ly walk­ing a knife edged stretch, com­bined with big expo­sure to cre­ate one of the most mem­o­rable parts of the route.

High Camp Rest Day

Mov­ing to 17,200’ and get­ting High Camp estab­lished can be a huge day, so we usu­al­ly take a Rest Day before attempt­ing the summit.

Sum­mit Day

Ele­va­tion: 20,310 ft / 6190 m

If the weath­er is favor­able, we’ll push for the sum­mit. How­ev­er, if the weath­er is not good we will not go. It is impor­tant to be patient! We will only try for the sum­mit when the weath­er is good, mean­ing most­ly clear and calm. Our guides are the most expe­ri­enced on the moun­tain and will make this some­times dif­fi­cult deci­sion. The round trip climb will take eight to twelve hours or more. Usu­al­ly you will depart camp ear­ly (7−9 a.m.), climb up to Denali Pass (18,000’) and fol­low the route past Arch Deacon’s Tow­er and the Foot­ball Field to the slopes lead­ing to the Sum­mit Ridge. On this spec­tac­u­lar ridge you can often see down into the Ruth Glac­i­er with views of beau­ti­ful peaks such as Moose’s Tooth, Mt. Hunt­ing­ton and Mt. Hunter.

Sum­mit Day is serious!

The weath­er needs to be good and every­one attempt­ing the sum­mit needs to have demon­strat­ed that they can safe­ly give it a shot. This is often the most gru­el­ing day of the expe­di­tion (some climbers say of their lives!). The guides have the ulti­mate deci­sion as to when the team will make a sum­mit bid. The guides also have the dis­cre­tion to decide that a team mem­ber has not shown that he or she is capa­ble to safe­ly make a sum­mit bid. Such occur­rences are rare; but remem­ber– your safe­ty is our pri­ma­ry concern.

The descent from High Camp takes from one to two days, depend­ing on the team’s strength and moti­va­tion to get home. The descent can beat you up more than the ascent, as we often have the heav­i­est loads of the trip as we go down from High Camp to Camp 2. Weath­er dic­tates when we can fly out to Tal­keet­na for food and show­ers. Not much beats a steak and sal­ad at the West Rib Tav­ern after work­ing hard on Denali!

Descent / Camp 2

Con­tin­gency Days

We build six ​ “ con­tin­gency days” into our sched­ule. Denali has a well-deserved rep­u­ta­tion for arc­tic weath­er and it is com­mon to take weath­er days at some point on the mountain.

Return to Anchorage

We will pro­vide group trans­porta­tion back to Anchor­age and assist in mak­ing any nec­es­sary lodg­ing reser­va­tions, how­ev­er any lodg­ing after the climb is your respon­si­bil­i­ty. As we can­not pre­dict when we will come off the moun­tain, we can­not make arrange­ments for lodg­ing ahead of time. This is a true tran­si­tion day from the inten­si­ty of the moun­tain to the rel­a­tive big city life of Anchorage.

Note on Itin­er­ary: Although we do our best to fol­low the sched­ule list­ed, this itin­er­ary is sub­ject to change for numer­ous rea­sons beyond our con­trol. The biggest fac­tor that will deter­mine our progress on the moun­tain, espe­cial­ly in estab­lish­ing Camp 3 and our sum­mit attempt(s), will be the weath­er. Denali weath­er is noto­ri­ous for unfor­giv­ing and unpre­dictable conditions. 

Equipment for Denali

Carrying gear, large capacity climbing pack (85-105l).

Lightweight as possible with a volume of 5,000 – 6,500 cubic inches (85-105 liters)

Osprey Aether 85, Osprey Zenith 105

Small duffel bag

Large enough to hold everything you’re not taking on the mountain. Will be stored at hotel, to be used after trip

Patagonia Black Hole

Large duffel bag (150L)

One at least 7,000 cubic inch capacity (150 liters). Must be durable and waterproof

A very large stuff sack 2,000 cubic inches (35 liters). Lightweight and waterproof

Small padlock for duffel bags

Extra security

Baggage tags

Makes identifying your bags easy at airports or hotels

Sleeping Gear

Expedition quality sleeping bag (-20--40f).

One down bag rated from -20°F / -30°C to -40°F / -40°C

Feathered Friends Ptarmigan, Marmot Col, Feathered Friends Snow Goose EX, Marmot Cwm

Sleeping pad (inflatable or closed cell foam)

A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental pad is recommended. This can be an inflatable or closed cell foam pad. Make sure to purchase a pad rated for cold conditions.

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir & Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sol

Sleeping pad (foam)

A foam pad will be provided but a supplemental sleeping pad is advised for warmth and comfort. Closed cell foam 3/4 or full length. This pad is used in conjunction with the first pad

Therm-a-rest Ridgerest

Climbing Gear

Alpine climbing harness.

Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all clothing

Black Diamond Couloir, Petzl Altitude, Petzl Hirundos

Mountaineering ice axe

under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”-6’2” use 60 or 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm

Black Diamond Raven, Petzl Glacier

Crampons w/ anti-balling plate

Steel 12-pont. Must be fit to climbing boots prior to trip, new-matic/hybrid type

Black Diamond Sabretooth, Petzl Vasak

Locking carabiners (3)

Three large, pear-shaped carabiners are best

Black Diamond Rock Lock, Petzl William, Petzl Attache

Non-locking carabiners (8)

8 non-locking carabiners. wired straight-gates are recommended

Black Diamond HotWire

Primary attachment locking carabiner

Triple action locking carabiner

Petzl William TriAct

Ascender (single)

One full-sized ascender with handle for fixed lines (left handed for right handed climbers, or vice-versa)

Petzl Ascension

Climbing helmet

Lightweight

Black Diamond Half Dome, Petzl Elios

50’ of perlon accessory cord

Accessory cord, made of nylon, is useful for many purposes on an expedition. You should bring 50 feet of 6mm cord

Double length nylon runner (48" or 120cm)

be sure to get nylon not dyneema (18mm width)

Black Diamond Nylon Slings

Adjustable trekking poles

Three piece poles recommended

Black Diamond Trail Back Pole

22-28in (55-70cm) with waterproof boots

Head and Face

Fleece or wool hat.

It must cover the ears

Shade hat or baseball cap

A visor hat with a good brim is essential for protection from the sun

Mountain Madness trucker hat

Bandanas or neck gaiter

Various uses, i.e. cleaning glasses, sun protection when tied around the neck, etc. We have our own Mountain Madness neck gaiter available for purchase!

Mountain Madness neck gaiter

Balaclava or Buff

A thin balaclava will add significant warmth on that cold summit day

Outdoor Research, Marmot

Neoprene or microfleece ski type

To protect you from the wind and sun

Glacier glasses

100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case

Ski goggles

To fit over glacier glasses in high wind. Rose or amber lenses

Smith, Oakley

Liner gloves

Two pairs thin fleece or synthetic

Softshell gloves

One pair medium-weight for daily wear when it’s not too cold

Black Diamond Arc, Arcteryx Zenta LT Glove

Expedition gloves

Insulated, water resistant shell with leather palms

Black Diamond Guide

Expedition mitts

One pair Gore-Tex or equivalent, with textured palms and taped seams. Synthetic or down filled. Warm, heavy duty for cold temperatures

Outdoor Research Altimitt

Thin socks (6 pair)

Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks to wear under heavy wool socks to help prevent blisters and keep feet dry

Smartwool or Cool Max

Thick socks (6 pair)

Six pairs of synthetic or wool socks, medium to heavyweight. Check boot fit with thin and thick socks on

Smartwool or Thorlo

Synthetic or down to keep feet warm while in tent

High-altitude double mountaineering boots (8000m)

Insulated boots rated for 8,000-meter peak climbs with a warm removable liner and built in, insulated overboot

La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa Phantom 8000

Light hiking boots or trail shoes

For acclimatization hikes

Salomon X-Ultra 3 Mid, Merrell Moab, La Sportiva Boulder Ex

Synthetic t-shirts

Two synthetic or merino wool t-shirts. No cotton!

Long-sleeved Base Layer

Two lightweight to mediumweight, pull-over is best

Patagonia Capilene

Sports bras

Two, synthetic, no cotton!

Light fleece hoodie

Light or medium-weight fleece (or wool) top with a hood. You will wear this over your light weight base layer

Mountain Equipment Eclipse Half-Zip Hoodie

Down or synthetic jacket w/hood

This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is ideal.

Helly Hansen Vanir, Feathered Friends Volant, Marmot Guide’s Down Hoody, Outdoor Research Virtuoso Hoody

Softshell Jacket w/ hood

This is what you will be wearing while hiking at higher altitudes or while kicking around camps at lower altitude. This jacket should be full-zip

Outdoor Research Ferrosi

Hardshell jacket w/ hood

A good jacket made of Gore-Tex (recommended) or waterproof nylon, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers

Outdoor Research Foray, Patagonia Triolet

Expedition down parka w/ hood (Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka)

This is your most important piece of warm gear and will mean the difference between an enjoyable climb or a miserable one. A warm, full zip jacket with hood is mandatory. It’s important that you jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and as a thick, insulated hood

Feathered Friends Rock and Ice Parka, Marmot 8000 Meter Parka

This piece with a high SPF rating and lightweight fabric offers protection from high altitude sun

Outdoor Research

Undergarments

Adequate supply for the entire trip

Long base layer

Two pairs light or mediumweight

Softshell pants

Softshell pants are water resistant, yet highly breathable and durable. Great for colder conditions over a pair of long underwear or tights higher on the mountain or summit day

Outdoor Research Voodoo, Mountain Hardwear Touren, Patagonia Guide

Hardshell pants

waterproof and breathable with side zips (minimum of ¾ zips recommended) Gore-Tex or equivalent

Outdoor Research Furio, Arcteryx Beta AR

Insulated pants

Synthetic or down with full side zip. Warm insulation for upper mountain

Mountain Hardwear Compressor

Miscellaneous

Stuff sacks/ditty bags/plastic bags.

To organize gear in your duffle and pack. All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large heavyweight plastic bags (trash compactor bags work great)

Toothbrush and paste, comb, tampons, biodegradable soap (small amount), etc. Bring enough for the entire trip

Toilet paper

1 – 2 rolls stored in a plastic bag

Bring plenty of sun block with SPF of 40 or more. It's easy to underestimate the amount necessary for your trip!

Must have SPF rating of 20 or more. Bring two just in case!

To block out snoring and other noise to ensure a good night's sleep

Water bottles with insulators

Two one-liter wide-mouthed plastic bottles

Small stainless-steel thermos (optional)

For hot beverages on summit day

Water purification

Steri Pen, Potable Aqua, Polar Pure crystal iodine. Purifies drinking water while on the trip.

Water flavoring

Powdered additives like Gatorade or NUUN are a nice change of pace to water and help replenish much needed electrolytes.

Hydration bladder (optional)

hydration bladder or water bag with drinking tube (must also have 1 Nalgene Bottle or equivalent)

Large plastic bowl

Bring a 2-4 cup camping bowl or a plastic "Rubbermaid" style container for your mountain dining

Insulated cup (12-16oz)

A 12-16 oz (350-500 ml) mug with an attached lid will help keep you hydrated

Lexan spoon or spork

Lightweight and strong

Bring extra batteries!

Pocket knife or multitool

Simple Swiss Army type with scissors. Make sure you transport in checked bag, not carry-on!

Personal first aid and drug kit

small personal first aid kit with ample bandaids and moleskin

Nausea medications

Pepto Bismol tablets; Maalox, Gelusil M or Mylanta antacid tablets. Donnatal for stomach cramps. Probiotic capsules taken daily may help keep your gastro-intestinal system working smoothly

For wash up in camp

Handi-Wipes

A small pack or two anti-bacterial are great for general hygiene

Spare contacts and glasses

Contacts can be a problem in dusty conditions, so make sure you have your back-up glasses with you. Glasses wearers should have a spare set

Snacks (general)

Bring your favorite snacks and power/energy bars or if there is something else you particularly like to eat while hiking and climbing

Spare bottle for a pee bottle, and a pee funnel (Lady J or Freshette) for women

It can be a cold walk to the toilet at night

Insect repellent

Personal electronics.

Phone with camera, and/or separate camera. Bring extra batteries and memory!

Electronics charging

If you want to charge your electronics along the way, a small, lightweight solar panel to charge batteries or portable charging device may be a good addition

Travel power adapter

Most come in kits with all the plugs you need. Double-check to make sure you’re taking the correct adapter/plugs

Travel clothing

Comfortable clothing for travel before and after the expedition

20,310 ft / 6190 m

West But­tress

Guide Ratio

6:3 climber to guide ratio

Climbers should be comfortable on 45 to 60 degree snow/ice slopes, waterfall ice climbing up to WI2-WI3, and/or moderate rock from 5.6-5.8+. Participants will have a well-rounded history of climbing experience.

Preparation Courses

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Mount Baker Glacier Mountaineering Course

Difficulty Advanced Beginner

Denali Prep Course

Difficulty Intermediate

Preparation

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Ultimate Cordillera Blanca

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Aconcagua Normal Route Expedition

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Home » Travel Guides » United States » Alaska (AK) » 15 Best Denali National Park Tours

15 Best Denali National Park Tours

Denali is the highest peak in North America, standing over 6000 meters above sea level in the state of Alaska. The peak is perpetually covered in snow and rises dramatically from the surrounding tundra to form one of the most impressive natural sights in the US.

This is one of the most isolated locations in the world, but the vast wilderness of Denali National Park that the peak lies in is an astoundingly beautiful place to visit. From Anchorage, you must travel overland or by small plane to the town of Talkeetna, from where you can begin to access the spectacular scenery of Denali.

Luckily, there are some excellent tours that facilitate travel into this extreme and remote world, from daring plane expeditions around the face of the mountain to off-road ATV adventures through the national park. To help plan your trip to Alaska, here are our favorite Denali National Park tours.

1. Denali North Face Flight Expedition

Denali is an almost insurmountable mountain and climbing the enormous peak is a challenge that few have completed. It’s not a feat taken lightly and it’s one that needs careful training, planning, and deep pockets! Few people, therefore, ever get too close to the mountain itself, but one alternative method of experiencing Denali is to take a flight expedition.

This tour takes you into the skies on a small prop plane flown by local bush pilots who know the landscapes and the weather conditions well. Traveling across the wilderness, you’ll see the most impressive natural sights of the national park from the air, as you fly over an area that would take days to cover otherwise. Get as close as the pilots dare to the north face of the mountain peak; along the way, you will see distinctive ridges, famous glaciers and much, much more.

2. Flight to/from Denali National Park

Being part of a vast and remote wilderness, Denali National Park is by no means the most accessible destination in the United States. Overland travel to the park can be arduous, unpredictable and long, but you can save time and energy by simply booking a flight into the national park itself, to one of the accommodation options.

These flights are in small aircraft, giving you a window seat view over the great landscapes below as you fly from any of Alaska’s major nearby locales – Anchorage, Fairbanks, or Talkeetna – and into Denali National Park. Along the way, see the best of the wilderness from above and get a wonderful running commentary from the bush pilot.

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3. Denali to Anchorage Railroad

If you would like to take the overland route across Alaska, from the state’s main entry point of Anchorage and into the depths of Denali National Park itself, then a fantastic option is to book onto the Denali Anchorage Railroad.

This scenic railroad takes visitors comfortably across the vastness of the state as the mountains rise around you. It’s a slow, eight-hour journey, but one which will see you experiencing the best of Alaska’s outdoors from the warm interior of an iconic railcar.

4. Denali Highway Jeep Excursion

Explore the interior of Denali National Park by joining this exciting adventure that takes you along the Denali Highway. This tour will pick you up from the hotels around the national park, from where you venture off on a 100-mile return journey that will leave you breathless.

With local guides accompanying, you get to see the national park in your own time, in this small group tour that reaches many destinations that are otherwise impossible to see unless driving an off-road vehicle.

5. Alaska: Denali National Park Self-Guide Jeep Adventure

If you love the idea of a Jeep tour of the national park but would rather take a more hands-on approach to explore Denali, then this self-guided jeep adventure is the tour for you.

Rent a four by four for the day and hit the national park to truly see Denali in your own time. Go where you want to and see the sights you are drawn to see.

6. Denali National Park Winter Experience

Alaska is known for its cold, long and at times brutal winters, but traveling here during this unusual season can be an incredible experience. On this tour, you can explore the beauty of Denali National Park during the coldest months of the year, when the mountains are iced over and trees are blanketed in a thick layer of snow.

On four by four buses, this tour takes you into the heart of the icy wilderness, where you see the iconic mountain peak and learn about the local history along the way from the guides.

7. Denali National Park Zipline Adventure

The adventurous won’t want to miss this unique experience when visiting Denali National Park. Take to the skies with this adrenaline-fueled zip line adventure that whisks you through the tall trees of the Alaskan wilderness with incredible views along the way.

This isn’t just one zip line thrill either, the day takes you along high suspension bridges before you tackle no less than seven zip lines through the trees and mountains.

8. Denali Backcountry Safari

This rugged, bumpy safari takes you into the true Alaskan wilderness as you follow a little-known trail into the heart of Denali National Park. Following the Stampede Trail, a long off-road ride will take you through tundra and trees as you search for the best of the local wildlife.

9. Denali ATV Trailblazer Tour

Spend the day exploring Denali National Park by ATV, on a journey that takes you off road and into the most secluded and isolated parts of the wilderness. The automatic ATVs are easy to get to grips with and soon you will be speeding off through the tundra, on the lookout for wildlife while stopping to admire the incredible scenery.

10. Denali Grand Tour

This all-encompassing tour takes off from Talkeetna Airport and whisks you through the skies to Denali National Park for an amazing aerial tour of the best this area of wilderness has to offer. For those short on time, the Grand Tour is the best way to experience Denali, as you spot the mountain, fly over glaciers, and even follow the climbing and hiking routes that those attempting to ascend to the peak would use, from the comfort of the airplane.

11. Denali Flyer Tour

Also departing from Talkeetna, the Denali Flying Tour takes you over the impressive mountain ranges of the national park, flying you over Denali Mountain, Hunter Mountain, and Foraker Mountain to give you a sense of the height of the peaks found here.

12. Denali Flightseeing Tour From Anchorage With Glacier Landing

If you’d prefer to take off from Anchorage and stay in the comfort of the city, this flight takes you out to Denali National Park and over the beauty of the wilderness and tundra, before returning you again to the city later in the day.

You will see all the highlights of Denali from the air, including the mountains and forests, but the real attraction of this tour is the opportunity to land on a glacier. Not for the faint-hearted, a glacier landing gives you the chance to get out and walk around an impressive feature of the Denali National Park, before hopping back on the plane to Anchorage.

13. Denali National Park Walking Tour

This small group walking tour is led by a knowledgeable local guide who will explain to you the intricacies of the diverse ecosystem found here. The three-hour tour doesn’t cover a huge distance but it does offer you the chance to ramble through the wilderness while learning much more about it.

14. Denali Wilderness Hiking Tour

This five hour day hike takes you into the wilderness of Denali National Park, as you traverse the natural beauty on foot while being led by an experienced local guide. As well as breathtaking views, you will be treated to in-depth commentary on everything from the park’s history to wildlife.

15. Denali Aurora Quest

If you visit Alaska during the winter, you may be lucky enough to see the fabulous Northern Lights during your stay. On this tour – which runs between September and April – you will be taken into Denali National Park when darkness has fallen to search out the light show in the skies.

15 Best Denali National Park Tours:

• Denali North Face Flight Expedition
• Flight to/from Denali National Park
• Denali to Anchorage Railroad
• Denali Highway Jeep Excursion
• Alaska: Denali National Park Self-Guide Jeep Adventure
• Denali National Park Winter Experience
• Denali National Park Zipline Adventure
• Denali Backcountry Safari
• Denali ATV Trailblazer Tour
• Denali Grand Tour
• Denali Flyer Tour
• Denali Flightseeing Tour From Anchorage With Glacier Landing
• Denali National Park Walking Tour
• Denali Wilderness Hiking Tour
• Denali Aurora Quest

Denali Park Tours

Hiking tours.

Touring Denali with us is special. Every step you take is more than part of a hike - it's part of an immersive experience built to supercharge your entire vacation. We don’t just guide you from point A to point B. We craft unforgettable adventures that stick with you for the rest of your life.

Your hike might start in the Denali Visitor Center. Or it might start on an unnamed trailhead in the woods. Either way, our experts have spent hundreds of hours hiking the Denali area. All to find the perfect trail (or lack of one) for your group.

Survival Tours

These are the only survival tours in the great state of Alaska! In our not-so-humble opinion, they’re also the best tours in Denali.

You’ll hear the stories of intrepid survivalists from around the globe who came to Denali to test their mettle.

You’ll hear about skills that were used by the native Athabaskans to survive and thrive in Denali’s harsh wilderness. Best of all, you’ll learn how to do the same yourself.

You’ll learn how to get food from the wilderness. How to find good shelter locations. How to navigate using only trees and plants as your guides!

You’ll feel like you’re on an episode of Alone. Just without the whole…starving part.

Our Ultimate Confidence Guarantee:

It can be stressful to find the right tour. What if it’s bad? Not what you thought it would be? Most companies would tell you to kick rocks. Not us.

If you don’t like your tour with Northern Epics, just give us a call. Or shoot us an email. Either way, we’ll give you a full refund. AND $100 towards your next tour in Alaska.

Find someone who stands by their tours as well as we do. I’m waiting.

Choose the only company with a commitment to you .

Northern Epics Core Values

Our core values of safety, sustainability, and immersion are woven into the fabric of every tour we offer. You’ll love feeling the thick, lush peat moss under your feet, or tasting a freshly made “Alaskan sushi roll” crafted by your guide from edible plants and berries. For guiding companies like ours, it all comes down to the guides, and we take pride in having the best guides in the industry. Equipped with Wilderness First Responder certifications, Northern Epics guides take every step possible to mitigate risk for you and your family, while their deep knowledge of Denali National Park's ecosystems allow them to offer insights that will enrich your understanding and appreciation of the place you’ve traveled thousands of miles to experience. By choosing us, you're not just booking a tour of Denali; you're investing in an experience that will make your vacation significantly more rewarding and memorable. We don’t just show you Denali; we show you how to experience it in a way that you never knew was possible.

Denali Park Tours FAQ’s

What is best tour of Denali National Park?

The answer to this question is inherently subjective, but I’ll give you what I believe to be the top four factors in deciding what Denali Park tour will be best for you..

Information - Of course, one of the most important aspects of any tour is that you learn a lot about Denali. That sounds obvious, but there are plenty of tours that fall short in this regard. Most tour companies hire guides who have never been to Denali before, and only train them for a few days before turning them loose on their own with clients like you. If you want to learn a lot about Denali, I would recommend taking a hiking tour with us before any other tours you take. I was going to list other informational tours here to make it seem like I wasn’t being biased towards our own tours, but to be completely honest with you, we’re so far ahead of anyone else in this department that it would be disingenuous to do so.

Sightseeing - Any time you’re going to a new area, you want to see everything there is to see. That’s tough to do in Denali, considering the National Park is larger than the state of Massachusetts. So what are the best tours for seeing everything you can? There are two obvious choices - a bus, and a plane. Buses are the only vehicles allowed past mile 15 of the Denali Park Road, so if you want to get a ground-level look deep into the National Park, you have no other other choice. I recommend the East Fork Transit bus, as it allows more freedom than the Tundra Wilderness Tour, and for cheaper! The other option is a flightseeing tour of Denali. This is easily my top choice when it comes to sightseeing. You can’t beat seeing Denali from above, even if it is really expensive! I recommend Denali Air for this one.

Authenticity - You’ll want to make sure that any tour you take is authentic to the area. This means a combination of things - the guide has to be knowledgeable about the area and its history, the mode of transportation should be one that is used by the locals or is historically accurate, and the tour shouldn’t be showing you things that aren’t relevant to Denali itself. This is an area where I think Northern Epics tours shine yet again. With the most knowledgeable guides in Denali, and a focus on teaching you about the history of the area, Northern Epics tours are as authentic as it gets. Husky Homestead also offers some great tours in which they demonstrate the sled dog lifestyle in an authentic Alaskan way. TEMSCO’s helicopter glacier landings are also good, as travel by helicopter is still common in Alaska.

Accessibility - Obviously, the most important aspect of a Denali Park tour is whether or not you’ll be able to do it in the first place. While you can do some research and find the tours that will match your desired activity level, I’ll list a few that are accessibly to almost anyone here; Tundra Wilderness Tour, whitewater rafting Wilderness Run, and Denali Jeep Tours.

Are Denali Park tours worth it?

The short answer is yes! Denali National Park is a favorite in Alaska for a reason. Aside from boasting the tallest mountain in North America, its unique climate has made for a set of alpine sub-arctic ecosystems that will absolutely blow your mind as you begin to understand them. No Alaska vacation is complete without a visit to Denali, and no visit to Denali is complete without at least a few tours to help you really get to know and understand the area.

Can you tour Denali on your own?

The answer to this question is rather complicated, and it depends on what you mean by touring Denali. If you mean actually going deep into the National Park, then the answer is no. Private vehicles are prohibited past mile 15 on the Denali Park Road, which is the only road that goes into Denali National Park. However, if you want to stay around the outskirts of the National Park than you can absolutely make your own tour of Denali. There are plenty of hiking trails around the entrance to the Park, and as long as you know what to do if you encounter a bear or moose and you’re prepared with bear spray and first-aid, hiking on your own is a lot of fun! With that said, I truly believe that to get the most out of your vacation, you should book some tours. Learn from the people whose job it is to teach you. It also helps support small Alaskan businesses like ours and the others around the Denali Park entrance.

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Japanese climbers are first to complete a complicated Denali route, thanks to help from Alaskans

Subaru Takeda, Genya Takenaka and Toranosuke Nagayama take a selfie while climbing a route on Denali in spring 2024. (Courtesy of Subaru Takeda)

Toranosuke Nagayama and his two climbing partners spent more than two years planning a major expedition on Denali.

“Alaskan climbing is very special,” Nagayama said. “We are really interested in that, like, a very white world. So we came here.”

Nagayama flew to Anchorage from Canada last month to finally make the long-awaited trek on Denali. His two partners — Subaru Takeda and Genya Takenaka — traveled all the way from Japan.

After they arrived, they left their bags unattended in the lobby of the Anchorage apartment they had rented.

But when they came back a few hours later, their bags were gone. They were devastated. Nagayama estimated that between $10,000 and $20,000 worth of climbing gear was stolen.

“I gave up at the time, like I gave up the expedition,” he said. “I was really ready for climbing, and I was so excited to see the glacier. I was really disappointed at the time.”

The next day, on a whim, Takeda posted a handwritten sign at REI, asking if anyone had information about their stolen gear. Someone took a photo of the sign and uploaded it to the Alaska Rock Climbing Facebook page .

Subaru Takeda posted a handwritten sign at the REI store in Anchorage after his climbing gear was stolen following his arrival April 21, 2024. (Facebook screenshot)

Within hours, Alaskans started reaching out, offering to lend equipment. Dana Drummond, owner of The Hoarding Marmot, even organized a spreadsheet of everything they needed — jackets, crampons, harnesses, ice axes and more.

“The Alaskan people were really kind,” Nagayama said. “I didn’t expect it. So it was so quick. And then we thought, ‘Oh, we might be able to continue this trip.’ It was a really good day.”

Their plan was to link two complicated climbs together: the West and East Kahiltna peaks with the Cassin Ridge of Denali. No one had successfully linked these peaks in one self-supported endeavor.

In 2008, Japanese climbers Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue tried, but they disappeared near the top of Denali . In 2011, it was attempted again by Yasuhiro Hanatani and Kei Taniguchi, but they did not complete it.

After gathering gear from climbers all over Anchorage, Nagayama, Takeda and Takenaka set out to make their attempt.

They spent two weeks acclimating to the elevation, and then they started traversing.

For 10 days, they climbed through difficult weather, and on snow and ice they described as fragile. They had hoped to also summit Denali, but a bout of hypothermia turned them around just before the summit. Still, they said, they were happy to complete their main goal — linking the Kahiltna peaks with the Cassin Ridge.

“The glacier was really beautiful, like huge and flat glacier,” Nagayama said. “We are so excited.”

Takeda took iPhone videos of their expedition, especially in rare moments of good weather. One shows the clouds below them as the endless snow glistens in the sunshine. There they are, dancing for the camera and jingling other people’s quickdraws, and dusting off other people’s crampons. Takeda said he thought about this a lot during the climb.

“From the top of me and from the base of me, I wear the other people gears,” he said. “I thought that it is meaningful thing.”

Subaru Takeda, Toranosuke Nagayama and Genya Takenaka in Dana Drummond’s house, where they stayed after their spring 2024 expedition on Denali. (Jeremy Hsieh / Alaska Public Media)

Clint Helander lent ski skins and helmets to the climbers. He wasn’t surprised that so many were quick to help.

“I think Alaskans are pretty resilient and you really kind of have to rely on people up here,” he said. “Sometimes you think you’re all separate from everybody and you have little disagreements here and there, but it’s really cool just to see how — in the climbing world or just in Alaska in general — how people really come together to help people out.”

Takeda said he’s so grateful.

“I could never do this without Alaskan people’s help,” he said.

Before flying home last week, they unpacked their borrowed gear and returned it all to the local climbers who — together — helped make their expedition successful.

This story originally appeared on Alaska Public Media and is republished here with permission.

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There Was a Daring Rescue near the Summit of Denali

Last week a trio of climbers from Malaysia became stranded on Denali in Alaska. Guides and rescuers recount how they spent multiple days trying to save them.

Heading out the door? Read this article on the Outside app available now on iOS devices for members! >","name":"in-content-cta","type":"link"}}'>Download the app .

At 10 A.M. on Tuesday, May 28, climbing guides Keith Sidle and Chad Ray stood at 18,400 feet, near a striated rocky outcrop called Zebra Rocks on Denali . The two were leading an expedition of four clients up the famed West Buttress route with the Alaska Mountaineering School, and they marveled at the clear skies and favorable conditions.

“That day was about as good as conditions get on Denali,” Sidle told Outside .

Up ahead, the two saw a figure walking towards. The man was Muhammad Illaham “Pak Am” Ishak, 47, one of three members of a climbing team from Malaysia. Sidle quickly noticed that something was wrong with Ishak.

“His right hand was ungloved, with what appeared to be full-thickness frostbite,” Sidle said. “He was carrying a dead SAT phone.”

Ishak asked the two to call rangers and request a helicopter rescue, and he then described a harrowing scene unfolding further up the mountain. His two climbing partners were hunkered just below the summit on a section of the mountain called the Football Field, he said, and both were exhausted, hypothermic, and unable to descend. After a brief conversation, Ishak continued downward. Sidle and Ray got on a radio and communicated the SOS. Then they and their clients continued their ascent, eyes peeled for Ishak’s two partners.

The interaction marked the beginning of a dramatic stretch on Denali during which rangers and guides attempted to rescue the trapped Malaysian climbers.

A Series of Miscalculations

Every spring, Denali’s West Buttress route attracts hundreds of mountaineers from around the globe. Some are chasing the “Seven Summits” challenge—ascending the highest mountains on each of the continents. Denali is among of the toughest of the seven, due to its vertical rise from base camp and position on the 63rd parallel, just a few degrees shy of the Arctic Circle. Temperatures near the 20,310-foot summit can plunge well below zero, and it’s often buffeted by extreme winds.

Ishak was climbing Denali alongside Zulkifili “Ajoy” Bin Yusof, 37, and Zainudin “Deeno” Lot, 47. The three were members of Alpine Club Malaysia, a climbing organization based outside of Kuala Lumpur, with a focus on helping its members ascend the Seven Summits, in addition to reaching the North and South Pole, a challenge collectively known as the Explorer’s Grand Slam. A club spokesperson told Outside that the organization is dedicated to “aspiring climbers in general, but obviously the biggest prize is the Seven Summits.”

After the Denali mission, Lot and Ishak planned to ascend 16,050-foot Mount Vinson in Antarctica to complete the seven. Both Lot and Ishak had been to Denali twice before, once guided and once unguided, but neither had reached the top. Lot told Outside that he has been a mountaineer for 30 years and has coached climbing since 2012, and he believes the group had enough experience for the expedition.

“My training in Malaysia also climbing many other peaks like the Seven Summits gave me confidence to survive on Denali, he said. “I used all my knowledge and experience to stay alive.”

But rangers and guides say the Malaysians made several errors that led to their dire situation. According to Tucker Chenoweth, Denali National Park’s South District ranger, the trio pushed for the summit from a campsite on a ridge at 16,000 feet. Normally, groups stay in high camp at 17,200 feet before climbing to the summit. “It’s uncommon to leave from this camp for a summit push because it makes for a very long, tiring day,” Chenoweth said.

Lot told Outside that his party left their high camp at 5:00 A.M. and reached the summit shortly before midnight on Monday, May 27—a summit push of 19 hours. Shortly after reaching the top, Bin Yusof became hypothermic, he said, and his two companions attempted to warm him up, hugging the man and wrapping him in emergency blankets. The trio spent nearly an hour on the summit ridge, before Bin Yusof asked the others to call for an evacuation.

NPS received an SOS from the team at 1 A.M. on Tuesday. Two hours later, another SOS message came in: the trio would descend to a section of the mountain called the Football Field—a relatively flat swathe of glacier at 19,600 feet—and await an air rescue.

At noon on Tuesday, the Alaska Air National Guard flew a HC-130 airplane over the area, and spotters saw two figures in the snow.

A Bad Scene at 19,000 Feet

Sidle and Ray found the two stricken climbers on Pig Hill, a steep incline just below the summit, at 1:30 P.M. The scene looked grim: Lot was laying face down on his pack, with his head pointed uphill. He wasn’t moving. “A rope was attached to him extending for about 50 feet, ending in a figure-eight,” Sidle said.

Further uphill was Bin Yusof, who was standing, but appeared to be in worse shape. Bin Yusof was disoriented and acting erratically. Sidle believes he was suffering from high-altitude cerebral edema—brain swelling due to lack of oxygen—which can be fatal. “He was stumbling around, and his hands were very frostbitten,” Sidle said. “He was just in his liner gloves with his mittens dangling from his wrists.”

As the party approached, Lot sat up and was coherent, rattling off basic information on request: the date, his name, nationality, and location on the mountain. Sidle and Ray carried several doses of the corticosteroid dexamethasone, and they administered the drug to both men—it is a common treatment for altitude sickness. They radioed rangers down the mountain, and then placed the two Malaysians in a two-man bivouac sack. They gave them hot water and food.

Ray and Sidle, who have 15 years of collective guiding experience, believed that the men were incapable of descending under their own power. The downward climb from Denali includes a sheer and icy slope called “the Autobahn,” where fatal falls are common.

“Trying to move non-ambulatory patients in semi-technical terrain when you have clients, at that elevation, it’s not really an option,” Sidle said.

Lot told  Outside that Ray and Sidle did everything within their power to help him and Bin Yusof. “Above 5,000 meters [16,404ft], you’re on your own,” he said

After staying with the Malaysian climbers for approximately an hour, Sidle and Ray knew they had to move. One client was suffering from the altitude—Sidle took the climber and another in their party back down. Ray proceeded to the summit with the others. They stopped with the Malaysians again on their way down, giving the men a puffy parka.

As Ray departed around 5:00 P.M. another party approached. Matt Park of Mountain Trip Guides, one of two guides helping a solo climber, stopped with the Malaysians to care for them. Down below, rangers attempted to get a helicopter into the air. But as evening grew late and temperatures began to drop, Park knew that he was also going to have to leave them. He dug a snow trench to provide them with shelter from the wind, and then climbed back down to the high camp.

“He said, ‘You wait here, tomorrow morning the rescue will come and fetch you guys,” Lot said. “Take care and hold on until then.’”

Three Days of Wind

Conditions on the top of the peak were ideal on Tuesday, May 28, but further down, a dense layer of clouds kept helicopters from punching through to higher elevations. Chenoweth said NPS rangers launched multiple attempts to fly above high camp that afternoon, but failed each time. “The upper mountain was in good shape,” Chenoweth said. “But everything below was socked in with a solid cloud ceiling.” Eventually, the rescue helicopter flew off the mountain to evacuate two frostbitten climbers—members of a different party—from Camp IV at 14,200 feet.

On Wednesday, rescuers awoke to dense clouds and violent winds—conditions that again grounded helicopters. Attempts to contact the Malaysians failed until 10 P.M. that night, when five messages came to rangers in rapid succession. The communications said both men were fighting for their lives, and their inReach battery was nearly dead.

Another day of foul weather grounded flights, but late on Thursday night, a helicopter was able to fly to the Football Field at 10:30 P.M. It was too windy to stage a rescue, but the crew dropped a duffel bag of gear and provisions 100 yards from the trench Park had dug. The pilot saw a lone person—later identified as Lot—waving.

Finally, after three days attempting to reach them, a rescue helicopter was able to fly to the Football Field at 7 A.M. on Friday, May 31. Rangers plucked Lot from the mountain with a short-haul rope. But by then Bin Yusof was dead. Rangers believe he succumbed to the elements on Wednesday, May 29. Officials have yet to reveal his cause of death, but officials told Outside that it was likely a combination of high-altitude cerebral edema and hypothermia.

“I used all my knowledge and experiences for the past 30 years to survive,” Lot said. “But to be honest, if the rescue did not come on Friday, I would have followed Bin Yusof into death.”

Lessons to Be Learned

Lot and Ishak were both treated for frostbite and released from a hospital in Anchorage. When Outside spoke with Lot on Tuesday, June 11, he was still in the United States, preparing Bin Yusof’s body for transport home.

Sidle told Outside that he helped Lot from the helicopter on Friday morning after his rescue, and that Lot replayed scenes from the ordeal and answered questions with ease.

“The fact that he survived at 19,600 feet for four nights and was still all there, coherent, that’s pretty incredible,” Sidle said.

Lot said he was still proud of his team’s achievement on the peak.

“We are the first team from Malaysia to do a self-guided climb on Denali,” he said. “Doing this remarkable adventure, we can proudly say Malaysia also has potential climbers that can stand tall with other world class mountaineers.

He still plans to take on Mount Vinson to complete his Seven Summits, and believes that his ordeal on Denali should count toward his goal. “I consider staying for five days and four nights up there as replacement for my descent,” he said.

In the wake of the incident, both rangers and guides believe there are lessons climbers can learn from the rescue. Sidle said the gear the Malaysians had was below standards for the extreme environment. Their pants and jackets were pockmarked with duct tape to fix tears. Their boots, he said, were “totally fubar,” with one sole delaminating entirely when the guides removed their crampons to bundle them into the bivy sack. One climber had a pair of crampons with a homemade toe-bail. “They didn’t have any contingency gear between them either, like a sleeping bag or bivy sack,” Sidle said.

The Malaysians were climbing without a guide, which would have earned them an accolade in the Malaysian Book of Records. This was a key motivation for the team, Alpine Club Malaysia’s spokesperson said. But guides often push climbers to adhere to strict timetables on ascents, to limit their exposure to extreme altitude and cold.

Lot acknowledged the team’s mistakes, but also attributed the tragedy to elements beyond his control—luck and weather. “As a Muslim, I believe in God,” he said. “Nothing can change His plans for us.”

On Denali, small miscalculations can quickly add up to a disaster, Sidle said. “Whether you woke up a little later, you moved a little slower, the weather was a little worse, your equipment wasn’t as good as you thought. You can almost never trace an accident to a one-off mistake,” he said.

Chenoweth said the tragedy and rescue is another reminder of the dangers on Denali. Rescues on the peak place the lives of others in danger, and climbers hoping to reach the summit should not be driven by that singular goal. Getting up and down safely is more important. “Climbing a mountain like Denali, you’re spending 15 to 22 days in this amazing, remote wilderness,” Chenoweth said. “If you’re not here for that, and you just want to get to the top, it really shows in your decision-making.”

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Japanese climbers finish a never-before completed Denali expedition, thanks to help from Alaskans

Toranosuke Nagayama and his two climbing partners spent more than two years planning a major expedition on Denali. 

“Alaskan climbing is very special,” Nagayama said. “We are really interested in that, like, a very white world. So we came here.”

Nagayama flew to Anchorage from Canada last month to finally make the long-awaited trek on Denali. His two partners — Subaru Takeda and Genya Takenaka — traveled all the way from Japan. 

After they arrived, they left their bags unattended in the lobby of the Anchorage apartment they had rented.

But when they came back a few hours later, their bags were gone. They were devastated. Nagayama estimated that between $10,000 to $20,000 worth of climbing gear was stolen.

“I gave up at the time, like I gave up the expedition,” he said. “I was really ready for climbing, and I was so excited to see the glacier. I was really disappointed at the time.”

The next day, on a whim, Takeda posted a handwritten sign at REI, asking if anyone had information about their stolen gear. Someone took a photo of the sign, and uploaded it to the Alaska Rock Climbing Facebook page . 

Within hours, Alaskans started reaching out, offering to lend equipment. Dana Drummond, owner of The Hoarding Marmot, even organized a spreadsheet of everything they needed — jackets, crampons, harnesses, ice axes and more. 

“The Alaskan people were really kind,” Nagayama said. “I didn’t expect it. So it was so quick. And then we thought, ‘Oh, we might be able to continue this trip.’ It was a really good day.”

Their plan was to link two complicated climbs together: the West and East Kahiltna peaks with the Cassin Ridge of Denali. No one had successfully linked these peaks in one self-supported endeavor. 

In 2008, Japanese climbers Tatsuro Yamada and Yuto Inoue tried, but they disappeared near the top of Denali . In 2011, it was attempted again by Yasuhiro Hanatani and Kei Taniguchi, but they did not complete it. 

After gathering gear from climbers all over Anchorage, Nagayama, Takeda and Takenaka set out to make their attempt.

They spent two weeks acclimating to the elevation, and then they started traversing.

For 10 days, they climbed through difficult weather, and on snow and ice they described as fragile. They had hoped to also summit Denali, but a bout of hypothermia turned them around just before the summit. Still, they said, they were happy to complete their main goal — linking the Kahiltna peaks with the Cassin Ridge.

“The glacier was really beautiful, like huge and flat glacier,” Nagayama said. “We are so excited.”

Takeda took iPhone videos of their expedition, especially in rare moments of good weather. One shows the clouds below them as the endless snow glistens in the sunshine. There they are, dancing for the camera and jingling other people’s quickdraws, and dusting off other people’s crampons. Takeda said he thought about this a lot during the climb.

“From the top of me and from the base of me, I wear the other people gears,” he said. “I thought that it is meaningful thing.”

Clint Helander lent ski skins and helmets to the climbers. He wasn’t surprised that so many were quick to help.

“I think Alaskans are pretty resilient and you really kind of have to rely on people up here,” he said. “Sometimes you think you’re all separate from everybody and you have little disagreements here and there, but it’s really cool just to see how — in the climbing world or just in Alaska in general — how people really come together to help people out.”  

Takeda said he’s so grateful.

“I could never do this without Alaskan people’s help,” he said. 

Before flying home last week, they unpacked their borrowed gear and returned it all to the local climbers who — together — helped make their expedition successful.

Anisa Vietze, Alaska Public Media - Anchorage

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