grassholm island trips

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Home / Things to Do / Pembrokeshire’s Islands / Grassholm

The island of Grassholm, six miles off the Pembrokeshire coast, is the most spectacular gannetry in southern Britain, and the third largest in the northern hemisphere.

Grassholm means “green island” in Norse, though it looks white from a distance, stained with guano and covered with gannets sitting on their nests. Some 39,000 pairs breed there from April to September, making Grassholm the ultimate seabird sight, sound and smell experience of Pembrokeshire.

By July, chicks and non-breeding birds who use the island to socialise and roost probably bring the number of gannets up to over 100,000. The island also has small numbers of fulmars, kittiwakes, guillemots, razorbills, and a few shags. From mid-summer onwards, there can be over 100 grey seals hauled out on rocks at low tide.

Grassholm has been owned since 1947 by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB), and was the first reserve the Society ever bought. Several boat operators take passengers on non-landing trips around the island.

In the Middle Ages Grassholm was used for grazing sheep during the summer. There is a small enclosure on the island that may have been used to round them up for shearing.

Where is Grassholm?

Grassholm fact file.

• Owned by: RSPB ; landing strictly forbidden.
• Getting there: Round trips in summer from Martin's Haven, Dale, Neyland and St Justinian.
• Park Area: West
• Grid ref: SM598092.

More on Pembrokeshire's Islands

St Margaret's

Adjoining Caldey is St Margaret's Island. A medieval chapel of that name once stood on the island but was converted in Victorian times into housing fo...

Skomer is the largest of the Pembrokeshire islands, a National Nature Reserve of international importance for its seabirds.

This beautiful nature reserve island is known for its seabirds and stunning wild flowers. Skokholm means “wooded island” in Norse, but nowadays th...

Facing the St Davids peninsula across the rushing waters of Ramsey Sound, probably Pembrokeshire’s best site for watching grey seals and porpoises.

Middleholm is a small green-topped rocky islet between Skomer and the mainland. It can be seen from the Deer Park at the end of the Marloes peninsula...

Famous for its Cistercian abbey, this charming island is an easy 20-minute boat trip from Tenby.

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GRASSHOLM ISLAND

As with many of Pembrokeshire’s islands, Grassholm is steeped in myth and has been associated with the name Gwales, a kind of magical underworld mentioned in the second Branch of the Mabinogi (a 14th century collection of Welsh myths and legends).

The legend tells of a war between Wales and Ireland, following which the seven survivors of the army of Prydein (Welsh Britain) go to Gwales, a kind of magical otherworld where their sorrows were forgotten.

They live in a royal palace for eighty years, feasting and drinking with the severed, but still living, head of Bendigeidfran (Bran the Blessed) until someone, as is the way of these things, opens the third door in the hall, the door facing Cornwall they had been forbidden to open. At this point the spell is broken, their sorrows return and they have to leave the island for reality.

If you’d like to see Grassholm Island for yourself join us on one of our Grassholm and the Celtic Deep boat trips .

This small island is twenty-two acres in size, lies ten miles offshore and is home to the fourth largest gannet colony in the world.

Accounting for 10-12% of the world population of northern gannets it is, in our opinion, one of the most spectacular sights in Pembrokeshire. Seen in the morning sunshine from the mainland on a clear day, half of it appears white and we often tease tourists that it is snowing out there!

It is actually the birds themselves, as opposed to just guano, as they have the most incredibly brilliant white plumage. In certain conditions associated with hot weather, a mirage effect can sometimes be seen where Grassholm can assume all sorts of odd shapes, including a table-top island.

Gannet nests are uniformly spaced across the island, just a neck and beak’s distance away from their nearest neighbour in every direction. This is because, whilst space is at a premium, gannets are also quite aggressive birds.

In 1802 there was no record of any gannets on Grassholm, and it is thought that, prior to their arrival, there were as many as 250,000 puffins breeding on the island.

There were so many that it is likely they became a victim of their own success and, being burrow nesters, burrowed  themselves out of existence as their nests caused the thin topsoil to collapse.

It is also believed that the sheep who used to graze the island may have contributed to the collapse of the puffin burrows. The remnants of these burrows can still be seen today in small areas not inhabited by the gannets.

In 1860, twenty pairs of gannets were recorded on Grassholm; by 1905 this had risen to 300 and, when the RSPB bought the island in 1948, there were 8000 pairs on the island.

It is thought that the dramatic increase in numbers may have been due to Lundy birds leaving their colony as a result of disturbance with the building of the new lighthouse and the introduction of a fog horn.

Gannet Research on Grassholm

Since 2006, Dr. Steve Voitier and his team from Exeter University have been carrying out annual data-gathering work on Grassholm, attaching tracking devices and cameras to the birds to collect information on the foraging and migration strategies of northern gannets. This work actually involves camping out on Grassholm during the summer months with the 100,000 gannets, probably the same number again in flies and large infestations of earwigs!

Conservation work on Grassholm

Gannets build their nests out of anything they find floating on the surface of the water. Historically this would have largely consisted of seaweed but sadly, in more recent years, there has been a dramatic increase in discarded plastic in the form of rope and netting being picked up and used by the birds. This can have a devastating effect on the nest’s inhabitants. Every year at the end of the breeding season, weather permitting, the RSPB and a team of volunteers will spend a day on Grassholm, when the majority of the chicks have fledged, cutting free any birds that have become entangled in their nests. A couple of times we have been lucky enough to join them on these rescue missions.

Boat Trips with Falcon Boats

Ramsey island special.

Adult £38 Child £25 Charter Price £375

Explore echoing sea caves and towering rock gorges, marvel at seabird cities and enjoy close encounters with seals and porpoise.

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Skomer and Ramsey Islands Trip

Adult £60 Child £40 Charter Price £600

Head out to Skomer Island, home to 38,000 Puffins, before returning to explore some of Ramsey’s dramatic scenery and wildlife.

Sunset Shearwater Trip

Adult £42 Child £32 Charter Price £400

Witness one of the wonders of the natural world as 360,000 Manx Shearwater return to their burrows at dusk.

Grassholm and the Celtic Deep

Adult £70 Child £45 Charter Price £675

Visit the most remote of the Pembrokeshire islands in search of seabirds, whales and dolphins.

Full Day Celtic Deep Expedition

Adult £150 Charter Price £1500

Join us for a unique 8 hour foray into the waters of the Celtic Deep, covering up to 70 miles of ocean.

Bespoke Group or private Charter

Charter Price POA

We also specialise in running bespoke private charter trips for groups or individuals.

Fishguard Bay – Strumble Head

Join us for a voyage brimming with prehistoric rock formations and fantastic wildlife

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Grassholm Gannetry Experience - Pembrokeshire Islands Boat Trips

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We've done the cruise twice on the first Sunday in June Perfect weather each time and this year we... read more

Incredible experience that keeps us coming back. Superb service on the boat crossing, very... read more

Grassholm Gannetry Experience

Had the most exhilarating boat trip with the very friendly/knowledgeable Gareth and Lloyd on the "Dale Nelson". We went cruising through the waves (THRILLING) and saw Skomer, Skokholm Islands aswell as our destination Grassholm and all the birdlife in the area! So many gannets and puffins! The lads made us feel very safe throughout and took excellent care of us... Would highly recommend. (Note: my 70+ agile Mam came along but would have been hard to access if elderly and less agile...) Niamh, Laois, Ireland.

Thank you for taking the time to post a review on Trip Advisor. We're so glad to hear that you enjoyed your trip with us! I will pass your kind comments on to the lads, and they will be thrilled to hear them. (N.B. We are able to change our departure points to accomodate those with mobility issues. Thank you for mentioning this as we will ensure our team let people know at the point of booking that this is an option.) We hope you enjoyed the rest of your trip to Pembrokeshire, hopefully we will see you again sometime!

My brother and his wife came to visit at the weekend and the highest point on the agenda was "To see Puffins". So as we are all (Shall we say) past our "Best before date", it was decided that the steps up from the Dale Princess landing stage on Skomer Island would be too much for us. We therefore decided to take the island cruise and what a delightful experience it turned out to be. The "oooos", the "aahhs" and the "wows" from youngsters and we oldies alike was testament to the success of the trip. I don't think we missed a species of bird or seal native to the island. The skipper took us where we could get the best sightings and Phil kept up a most informative commentary on the islands wildlife, numbers of each species, success stories and also past problems + adding the lessons learned from them. He is also no slouch with his knowledge of Skomer and Skokholm islands history either. The question and answer bits were a nice touch and kept everybody on their toes but sadly all too soon we were heading back to face the drive home. It would not be fair to end without a word about "Lockley Lodge". The friendly greeting from "Gary and Chrissey" and the efficiency they get the tickets out and boats organised is nothing less than a logistical masterpiece. "I take my hat off to them"

Thank you for taking the time to post a review on Trip Advisor. We value all customer feedback, and it's always fantastic to hear that you enjoyed your time with us! I will pass your kind comments on to all involved, they will be thrilled to hear that you enjoyed your trip so much! We hope to see you again sometime!

Amazing boat trip, soooo worth it! Saw thousands of different birds- wouldn't hesitate to do it again :-)

Thank you for taking the time to post a review on Trip Advisor. We're so glad that you enjoyed your time with us! We hope you enjoyed the rest of your trip to Pembrokeshire, hopefully we will see you again sometime!

We had a great time the crew was very knowledgable. We launched from Dale due to sea conditions which were best described as entertaining but just added to the experience be prepared to get wet if sea conditions are not great, but don't let it out you off it adds to the excitement. There was plenty of wildlife in view Gannets, Puffins, razorbills, guillemot, peregrine falcon, shearwaters to name a few. My kids age 10 and 12 loved it.

Thank you for taking the time to post a review on Trip Advisor. We're so glad that you enjoyed your time with us. Yes it can be a bit wet at times, but like you say that's all part of the experience! We hope you enjoyed the rest of your trip to Pembrokeshire, hopefully we will see you again sometime!

We travelled to Pembrokeshire as a group of 4 friends . Our purpose was to see puffins and we were not disappointed . The safari exceeded our expectations from start to finish . I was called the morning of the safari to say that the trip was on but that the pick up point and time had altered due to tides . Waterproof suits and life jackets were provided and we were off to find puffins . The guides were very informative and pointed out the various birds and sea life . The trip lasted 2 1/5 hours and was worth every penny we saw hundreds of puffins as well as gannets razorbills kittiwakes gulls grey seals and a porpoise . A thoroughly enjoyable trip .

Thank you for taking the time to post a review on Trip Advisor. We value all customer feedback, and it's always fantastic to hear that you enjoyed your time with us! We hope you enjoyed the rest of your trip to Pembrokeshire, hopefully we will see you again sometime!

My wife and I head out for the evening safari on our penultimate day in Pembrokeshire. If you have even a mild interest in seeing animals in their natural habitat, go on this excursion. I could not believe the sheer number of animals we were able to see. As you can probably guess from the title of this and other reviews, puffins stole the show. Once we started to approach Skomer (the nearest island to the departure point), we started seeing a fair few. Soon after that, we were seeing them in all directions and in huge numbers - and this was late July, getting to the end of their breeding season. We were also fortunate enough to see a pod of porpoise, several curious grey seals, kittiwakes, guillemots, cormorants, greater black-backed gulls, fulmars and, towards the end, manx shearwaters ( you'll need to do the evening safari to see these). Seeing them all so close up is truly amazing. The guides were excellent - great species knowledge and really good at getting the boat close to the animals without startling them. They provided overalls to keep everyone warm and dry (additional warm clothing is a good idea for the eve, even in summer) and were just veey likeable. I'll be taking one of the daytime tours with these folks next time I visit Pembrokeshire . I really can't recommend them enough.

The RSPB Nature Reserve of Grassholm island

a small remote offshore island supporting tens of thousands of breeding gannets. This is the fourth largest colony in the world for this breed.

Grassholm is both the oldest RSPB reserve in Wales, and the only northern gannet colony in Wales. With Tens of thousands pairs of breeding gannets it is the fourth largest in the world behind Bass Rock and St Kilda.

The uninhabited rocky island of Grassholm, which is 42 metres in elevation at its highest point, lies 15 kilometers off the Southern Pembrokeshire Coast. The island is remote and exposed and surrounded by difficult and turbulent seas. This is a prominent area for feeding Porpoise, Common Dolphins and Rissos Dolphins.

Grassholm Island was the first RSPB island established in Wales in 1948, and no public landing is permitted.

The Island comes alive in early spring, with gannets returning to the island from late February onwards. The air is filled with males returning with nesting materials keen to establish territory ready to attract females.

A single egg is laid in April and chicks begin to hatch in early June. The chicks are then fed by both parents for around 90 days until they are fully grown, and ready to leave the island in late August and throughout September.

The best way to see Grassholm and all its incredible Bird and Marine life is by joining us on our Grassholm Seabird Spectacular trip.

Take a trip with us…

Ramsey island adventure, ramsey island landing, ramsey island guided walk, evening cruise and shearwater trip, 2hr skomer puffin spectacular, grassholm seabird spectacular, fishing trips, pelagic trip, fishguard bay strumble head trip, ramsey island special (rib), grassholm and the celtic deep boat trip (rib).

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Dolphin spotting Skomer Island

Boat trips in Pembrokeshire

Explore the magnificent coast of Pembrokeshire with a boat trip that gets you up close to some astonishing seabirds and marine wildlife in the splendour of their natural habitat.

Pembrokeshire is the UK’s only coastal National Park, plus it tops the rankings for Blue Flag beaches in Wales. So where better to get out onto the Atlantic with one of the many boat trips that give you the very best vantage point for views along the magnificent West Wales coastline, its caves and numerous islands, and the chance to spend time amongst the whales, bottle nosed dolphins, seals, guillemots and razorbills. Imagine witnessing one of the wonders of the natural world as 360,000 Manx shearwaters return to their burrows at dusk!

Falcon Boats offer scheduled boat tours around the lovely St Davids Peninsula, including Ramsey Island, with life enhancing trips to see puffins at sunset while enjoying a picnic, and a whale and dolphin watching adventure to the RSPB brilliant white gannet colonies of Grassholm and the Celtic Deep. Some trips are dog friendly, if you can keep their attention away from the amazing wildlife!

Venture Jet Boat Trips offers the excitement of New Zealand jet boats, complete with 360 degree Hamilton turns and power-braking.

Voyages of Discovery is a WiSe Scheme (Wildlife Safe) accredited family run company. They specialise in voyages around the rugged cliffs and coves of the Pembrokeshire islands to see the wonderful wildlife close at hand. As well as the island cruises, you can take an evening puffin and shearwater trip, or see dolphin, porpoises and maybe even whales on their off-shore voyages. 

Find a provider in the search results below, or use our search page to find more activities . 

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RAMSEY ISLAND BOAT TRIPS

Thousand islands expeditions.

PEMBROKESHIRE ISLANDS

Come and visit the pembrokeshire islands.

Ramsey Island RSPB Nature Reserve

Ramsey Island is one of the most well known Pembrokeshire Islands.  It was purchased by the RSPB in 1992 and was designated a National Nature Reserve.  It has internationally important flora and fauna, including 20 species of rare plants, breeding Chough and Lapwing and the largest Grey Seal colony in Wales.

The island is awash with colour from May to September, bluebells, then pink thrift and purple heather. At nearly 120m (400 ft.) the Western cliffs are among the highest in Wales. They are home to Ravens, Peregrines and Buzzards.

In spring, Guillimots, Razorbills, Fulmars and Kittiwakes come to nest.  Chough breed on the these cliffs, seeking out deep fissures and caves in which to build their nests.  From mid July the cliffs empty as the auk chicks head out to the open sea.

August is the time for the Atlantic Grey Seals to pup, several hundred pups are born each year on Ramseys beaches and in the caves.  The Southern heathlands are a special combination of heather, gorse and coastal plants.  In August they come into their glory, when the heathers and gorse flower together. This habitat is the haunt of Stonechats, Meadow Pipets, Linnets and Skylarks.

The summits of Carn Ysgubor and Carn Llundain give splendid views to the mainland, south to Skomer Island and on the clearest days, West to Ireland. Look out for Wheatears, Pipits and feeding Choughs.  The main trail is about 3.5 miles (5.6 km) which can be divided into two loops. Lat/Lng: 51.86456, -5.33335 Grid Ref: SM706237

Grassholm Island

Rspb nature reserve.

The RSPB Nature Reserve of Grassholm island  is a remote offshore island supporting over 36,000 pairs of breeding gannets.  This is the fourth largest colony in the world for this breed.

The uninhabited rocky island of Grassholm lies 15 kilometres west of the Marloes peninsula in south Pembrokeshire. It is remote and exposed, surrounded by difficult and turbulent seas.   Grassholm Island was the first RSPB reserve established in Wales in 1948 and public landing is not permitted.

From August it is time for the Atlantic Grey Seals to pup, several hundred seal pups are born each year on Ramseys beaches and in the caves.  The Southern heathlands are a special combination of heather, gorse and coastal plants.  In August they come into their glory, when the heathers and gorse flower together.  This habitat is the haunt of Stonechats, Meadow Pipets, Linnets and Skylarks.

The island comes alive in early spring, with gannets returning to the island from late February onwards.  The air is filled with males returning with nesting materials keen to establish territory ready to attract a female.  A single egg is laid in April and chicks begin to hatch in early June.  The chicks are then fed by both parents for 90 days until they are fully grown and ready to leave the island in late August and throughout September.

Lat/Lng: 51.731287, -5.479151          Grid Ref: SM598093

South Bishops  Lighthouse

The South Bishop Lighthouse is on the South Bishop Island (also known as Emsger), approximately 5 miles (8 kilometres) West of St Davids Head.

Designed by James Walker, it was built on the island in 1839, acting both as a waymark for vessels navigating offshore and as assistance to ships navigating around the island group. 

The lighthouse was converted to electric in 1959, and in 1971 a helipad was constructed.

The lighthouse was automated and demaned in 1983, like many in the UK, it is monitored from the control centre at Trinity House in Harwich.  

It was built in the path of migrating sea birds and the brilliance of the light at night led the birds to dash themselves against the lantern.  Many died and when Trinity House and the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds teamed up, they came to the conclusion to build special bird perches on the side of the lighthouse lantern. After this the amount of deaths decreased considerably.

Smalls Lighthouse

The Smalls Lighthouse stands on a small rock approximately 20 miles (32 kilometres) west of St David's Peninsula.   The lighthouse is the most remote lighthouse operated by Trinity house.

The original Smalls Lighthouse was erected over 1775 and 1776, on the plans of Liverpool musical instrument maker Henry Whiteside.  It stood on nine oak pillars, allowing the sea to pass through beneath. Although it suffered from some rocking, it stood for 80 years. 

During its life a significant number of extra struts were added beyond the original nine. The pillar-based design has since been used successfully in many sea structures.

The current Smalls Lighthouse.  In 1859 Trinity House, having bought out the previous leaseholders in 1836,  began the construction of the current Lighthouse.  The tower was completed in 1861.  In 1978 a helideck was erected above the lantern and in 1987 the lighthouse was automated.

The first wind-and solar-powered lighthouse in the UK. Although it has only a 35 watt bulb, with the aid of lenses, this can be seen up to 21 miles (34 km) away. It was the first lighthouse in the country to have an installed flushing toilet.

Bishops and Clerks Islands

The smaller Pembrokeshire islands behind Ramsey Island are collectively know as the Bishops and the Clerks, they are owned by the RSPB with the exception of the South Bishops which belongs to Trinity House.

On Carreg Rhosson and North Bishops there are 150 pairs of Storm Petrels, small numbers of Guillimotts and Razorbills, with a small colony of Puffins on the North Bishops Island.

Pembrokeshire's official website for tourism information

Language English Cymraeg

Thousand Islands Expeditions

About thousand islands expeditions.

LAND ON RAMSEY ISLAND

Ramsey Island is owned and protected by the RSPB who have granted Thousand Islands sole landing rights to the Island. Each day a privileged number of day visitors are invited to experience the unspoilt natural beauty of this spectacular island nature reserve.

Ferry departs daily  10.00 or 12.00 returning 12.00 or 16.00.

THOUSAND ISLANDS ADVENTURE

Join our guide on a cruise around Ramsey Island on our traditional boat Gower Ranger. Seals, seabirds, porpoise, fast currents and spectacular scenery.

Boat departs daily  10.30   12.30   14.00   14.30   16.30

LANDING AND AROUND

Enjoy the best of both worlds. Combine the Thousand Islands Adventure boat trip around Ramsey Island and the Landing on Ramsey Island, enjoy Ramsey Island by land and by sea.

1 HOUR JET BOAT TRIPS OR RHIB

Explore the bays and caves around Ramsey Island, venture through rocky gorges and across Ramsey Sound through some of the most powerful currents in Britain.

Boats depart frequently throughout the day.

2 HOUR SKOMER PUFFIN TRIP

Enjoy the sights of Ramsey Island and Skomer Island.  Departs daily.

WHALE AND DOLPHIN WATCHING

We venture into the rich waters of the Celtic Deep in search of dolphins, puffins, seals, seabirds and if you are lucky a whale.

EVENING PUFFIN AND SHEARWATER TRIPS

A 1 1/2 hour cruise around Ramsey Island to see seabirds, seals then out to the North Bishops Island where there is a small colony of Puffins. On our return we watch the incredible passage of 100's of Shearwaters.

Additional Information

Open from December to December.

Price Info:

For full list of trips, times and prices follow this link: https://thousandislands.co.uk/boat-trips/

Facilities:

• Groups welcome
• Pembrokeshire Marine Code

Take the A487 to St Davids.  Our booking office is in the centre of St Davids on the approach road to St Davids Cathedral.  The boats depart from the old lifeboat station at St Justinians which is 2 miles from the centre of St Davids.

There is a boat bus that runs throughout the day that departs from the Cross Square in the middle of St Davids.  Contact us to book a seat.

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How to plan the ultimate island-hopping adventure in Scotland

Wild, windswept and wonderfully scenic, these islands have neolithic sites, curious wildlife and a culture all of their own.

The 900-odd islands, islets and skerries amassed off the western and northern coasts of mainland Scotland are an eclectic bunch. In the north, the North Sea archipelagos of Shetland and Orkney have Viking history and names derived from Old Norse. To the west, the Atlantic-bound Outer Hebrides remain the stronghold of the Gaelic language, which is still spoken everywhere on the islands. And then there are the Inner Hebrides, tucked in closer to the mainland and running from whisky-soaked Islay in the south to the toothy peaks of Skye in the north.

It’s a region where connection matters. Some destinations have easy links to mainland communities; more ferries and flights mean more people and, generally, a more cosmopolitan feel. Others are flung further out to sea, islands off islands reached only via multiple ferries, and with a wholly different character.

At times, this topography has led to heartbreak. Take islands such as St Kilda and Mingulay, in the Outer Hebrides: home to small but determined local communities for millennia, both had to be eventually abandoned in the last century due to a gradual loss of self-sufficiency.

But it can also provide part of the charm, for it makes the journey part of the experience. A highlight of any visit to the islands is likely to be the trip out to them. Skye, for example, can be reached via a swooping road bridge that climbs to 115ft above Loch Alsh. If you fly into Barra, gateway to the Outer Hebrides, you’ll touch down right on a beach — the only such landing in the world.

Indeed, the beaches are a highlight across the archipelagos. Many look like they could be found on a screensaver, all buttery sand and aquamarine water. Some stretches of coastline are so sparsely populated and little visited, you might romp down their dunes and make the day’s first footprints.

Wildlife flourishes throughout, too. Expect to spot eagles overhead and puffins on the cliffs, plus all manner of marine life, from seals and dolphins to basking sharks and even whales. This also means you’ll find just-caught seafood on the menu everywhere, from cosy restaurants to village pubs.

We’ve picked some of the best trips to discover this region of wind and waves, but wherever you travel, there’s always another island waiting on the horizon. The temptation to carry on is as strong as the whisky.

Itinerary 1:   Far North & Orkney

Start point: Inverness End point: Inverness Distance travelled: 374 miles Average length: 7 days

Orkney is unlike anywhere else in Scotland. That’s partly down to its history: it was under Norwegian and Danish control for hundreds of years until the 15th century, and many Orcadians still claim Scandinavian ancestry. It’s also down to its location, across the Pentland Firth from Scotland’s northeast tip, with the largest town, Kirkwall, standing more than 200 miles north of Edinburgh.

Despite feeling far removed, it’s just 90 minutes by ferry from the Scottish mainland. By renting a car and using Inverness as your start and end point, you can easily combine exploring Orkney with a spin around Scotland’s far north, where the Flow Country is a highlight. It’s the world’s most intact and extensive blanket bog system, a peaty, pool-dotted expanse whose colour palette of mossy browns and earthy greens seems to shift like a kaleidoscope as clouds scud overhead.

Once you reach Orkney via ferry, the landscape is dominated by the North Sea, glinting on the horizon and pounding the shoreline, never too far from the road. On Mainland, Orkney’s largest island, a straightforward loop takes in the archipelago’s best-known sights, many of them historically significant, including the ancient village of Skara Brae — part of Orkney’s UNESCO-listed group of Neolithic sites — and Scapa Flow, where you can dive among shipwrecks. On Hoy, to the south of Mainland and accessible via ferry, one of the UK’s tallest sea stacks provides an easy marker for the end of your trip.

Highlights in the Far North & Orkney

1.   Forsinard Flows Hire a car in Inverness and head north to Scotland’s Flow Country, an expanse of rare blanket bog that’s currently being considered for UNESCO World Heritage status. At its heart is an RSPB reserve where you can walk the mile-long Dubh Lochan boardwalk, spotting lizards, frogs and dragonflies at ground level, and hen harriers and golden plovers overhead. A viewing tower affords views across the peatland.

2. Skara Brae Take the 90-minute car ferry from Scrabster, on the mainland, to Stromness, in Orkney, then find Skara Brae huddled next to a blustery beach. We know Neolithic people had a form of fitted furniture thanks to a storm that hit Orkney’s Mainland in 1850. It uncovered this immaculately preserved 5,000-year-old village, where nine surviving homes are divided into clear rooms and feature stone dressers and box-beds. The visitor centre displays artefacts such as jewellery and tools.

3. Kirkwall A 25-minute drive east takes you to Kirkwall, home to Orkney’s main harbour and airport and liveliest pub scene. You’ll also find Britain’s most northerly cathedral, the yellow-and-red sandstone St Magnus, founded in the 12th century. The town is the most bankable spot for a proper Orcadian live music session: pop into Skipper’s , The Bothy Bar or the Auld Motor Hoose to find out what’s on.

4. Scapa Flow Once a British naval base, Scapa Flow played a key role in both world wars. Today, these sheltered waters just south of Mainland are littered with shipwrecks, from blockships sunk to keep the Germans at bay to the German High Seas Fleet, deliberately scuttled here in 1919. Take a snorkel safari for a glimpse of these wrecks or get closer to them on a scuba dive with Kraken Diving .

5. Old Man of Hoy For the last leg of the trip, take the car ferry from Houton, on Mainland, to Lyness, on Hoy, then drive the 25 minutes to Rackwick. From here, hike along the cliffs — spotting fulmars and great skuas as you go — to the Old Man of Hoy, on the island’s west coast. This 450ft-tall red sandstone sea stack is best seen in late afternoon, when the sun brings out its rosy colour. Allow three hours return for the hike.

Itinerary 2:   Outer Hebrides

Start point:   Barra End point: Stornoway Distance travelled: 137 miles Average length: 10 days

Some of Scotland’s finest scenery lies far off its western coast, across the crashing waters of the Minch strait on the fringes of Europe. If the climate were warmer, the Outer Hebrides would surely be overrun with sunseekers, home as they are to white sand beaches that could stand in for the Caribbean. Instead, with the average summer high a cool 16C, this 130-mile-long string of islands remains quiet year-round — and fiercely traditional.

The archipelago is the last stronghold of the Scottish Gaelic language, once the dominant tongue throughout most of Scotland. It sets the tone for encounters with islanders still engaged in traditional crofting, fishing and weaving, producing the world-famous Harris tweed — still handwoven using island-spun wool — and some of the tastiest seafood.

This is a journey to take your time over, making diversions to local art galleries and near-hidden Neolithic sites. Start by flying from Glasgow to Barra, then hop between South Uist, North Uist, Harris and Lewis via ferry and causeway, eventually flying back from Stornoway. Along the way, the road glides above the Atlantic, ribbons around rocky bays and hugs the foot of lofty, heather-cloaked mountains.

Highlights in the Outer Hebrides

1. Traigh Mhòr This beach, on the northern tip of Barra, is the only one in the world to double as a runway for scheduled flights. Begin your Hebridean adventure with a memorable touchdown, watching the sands rushing up to meet you as you descend over the Atlantic. Pick up a vehicle from Car Hire Hebrides and drive the 20 minutes to the main village, Castlebay. Its huddle of homes gazes out at Kisimul Castle , a fortress atop an islet and the only medieval castle remaining in the Outer Hebrides.

2. Beinn Langais Take the ferry from Castlebay to Lochboisdale, on South Uist, then drive 50 minutes to North Uist and check in to Langass Lodge , a former shooting lodge. Pull on some boots for a two-mile circular trail, taking in the 5,000-year-old Barpa Langais chambered cairn, Pobull Fhinn stone circle and Beinn Langais hill. North Uist is slung so low that the latter’s 300ft summit rewards you with a panorama of peatland and sinewy sea lochs.

3. St Kilda Continue north via road and ferry to Leverburgh, on the island of Harris, your base for the next couple of days. This is the departure point for day trips to the St Kilda archipelago, which rises sharply from the water 40 miles to the west. Once home to a thriving community, it now stands abandoned, the traditional Hebridean blackhouses gently crumbling. While it’s officially uninhabited, some life remains here, with almost a million seabirds — including the UK’s largest colony of puffins — cloaking the sheer cliffs and enormous sea stacks.

4. Golden Road Starting around 30 minutes’ drive north of Leverburgh, the Golden Road is hailed as one of the isles’ best drives. Clinging to Harris’s eastern coast, its single track loops around sea lochs, the waterline occasionally broken by seals’ glossy crowns. Check out local art at Skoon Gallery & Studio and Finsbay Gallery and make time for the Harris tweed exhibition in Drinishader to learn about the beloved cloth.

5. Calanais Standing stones Swap Harris for Lewis with an hour-long drive north from Drinishader to the Calanais Standing Stones , a cross-shaped stone circle older than Stonehenge. We’ll probably never know why they were erected here some 5,000 years ago — astronomical observatory? Site of Neolithic worship? — but the intrigue has contributed to myths and legends. The mountains and lochs around it make it all a glorious sight.

6.   Uig Sands Drive another 30 minutes to get to this blissfully quiet beach, then hike across miles of pristine sands washed by teal waters to work up an appetite. Lunch is at Uig Sands restaurant: nab a window seat and order the Uig Lodge smoked salmon, then linger a night or two in one of four chic bedrooms, all of which have private patios and views across the bay.

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