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31 Things To Do In Pristina + Restaurants & Hotels

Written by our local expert Drita

Drita is a shy Albanian girl. Her Mom is from Kosovo, her Dad from Serbia. She loves to travel & share travel trips to help first-time travelers exploring Albania & the Balkans.

Pristina, Kosovo is a diverse city to discover! Here are the top things to do when visiting, along with ideas on where to eat and where to stay.

Pristina, also known as Prishtina, the capital of Kosovo, holds a special place in my heart, not just because of its captivating blend of old-world charm and contemporary allure but also because of my family roots deeply embedded in this beautiful city.

As I explore Pristina’s diverse range of experiences, I can’t help but feel a strong connection to this great place. Located in the Northeastern part of Kosovo, close to the enchanting Goljak mountains in the District of Pristina, this city has always felt like a second home to me.

Now, I’m thrilled to share my love for Pristina with you as we embark on a journey to discover the best things to do in this remarkable city, ensuring your visit is filled with memorable moments and delightful discoveries.

• 7 Days In Kosovo – Pristina, Prizren & Beyond

Skip Ahead To My Advice Here!

Historical And Cultural Landmarks In Pristina

1. visit the emin gjiku ethnographic museum.

One of the best places to visit in Pristina is the Emin Gjiku Ethnographic Museum. It’s located in an old 18th-century house in the Bazaar area and shows what Kosovar life was like from the 15th to the 20th century. The tour guides explain how all the furniture, tools, pottery, traditional clothing, jewelry, musical instruments, and weapons were used and give you some insight into Pristina traditions.

2. See Pristina’s Oldest Mosque

Sultan Bayezid I lost his father, Sultan Murad I, in the battle of Amselfeld, which they won against the Christian defenders.

To commemorate the victory and remember his father, Sultan Bayezid, I built the Carshi Mosque in 1393.  Also known as the Bazaar Mosque, Stone Mosque, or Sultan Murad Mosque, it is one of the famous places in Pristina and the city’s oldest mosque.

Standing in the bazaar area near the start of the old town, it’s an essential addition to the list of things to see in Pristina.

3. Visit The Sultan Mehmet Fatih Mosque

The Sultan Mehmet Fatih Mosque, also known as the Imperial Mosque and locally referred to as the Fatih Mosque, stands as one of Pristina’s top attractions.

Constructed in 1461 by Sultan Mehmet II Fatih, this historical edifice has witnessed various historical phases, including its temporary transformation into a Catholic Church during the 17th-century Ottoman-Habsburg wars.

Adorned with exquisite paintings and murals, the mosque’s interiors captivate visitors with their artistic and historical richness. As the most significant mosque in Pristina, it’s a compelling destination for anyone interested in exploring the city’s rich cultural and religious tapestry.

4. See The Museum Of Kosovo

Among Pristina’s top 10 tourist attractions is the Museum of Kosovo, which opened in 1949.

The Kosovo Museum is a great spot to learn more about the history of Kosovo. It’s also an excellent way to get out of the rain for a few hours. You’ll learn about Kosovo all the way back to the prehistoric era, with a large segment of the museum dedicated to the war and independence.

The museum is located in a building built in 1889 to house the military high command. Recently renovated, the Museum of Kosovo is no doubt one of the top things  to see.

The museum is free to enter, but you can donate if you choose.

5. Christ the Savior Orthodox Cathedral

This church is abandoned, but the architecture is still magnificent. However, it’s the history that people want to learn about.

During the war, Serbia forced Kosovans to build churches, which was difficult considering that the majority of the population was Muslim. When the war ended, this church was left half-built, and it remains that way now.

6. National University Library

Now, at first glance, you might decide that this building is, in fact, quite ugly to look at, but it still deserves some of your time. Some people think it’s modernist and beautiful; others think it’s horrible – what do you think?

It’s designed in a Brutalist architectural style, which might not be the prettiest way to create a building, but it certainly stands out!

Of course, you can forget what it looks like and go inside to explore the millions of books and artifacts.

7. Saviors Cathedral

Although it’s still under construction, the Saviors Cathedral in Pristina is worth a visit.

The building itself tells a story of the city’s evolving religious landscape. It’s a fascinating glimpse into contemporary Pristina and its communities.

8. Visit Saint Teresa Cathedral

Built in 2007, the Cathedral of Blessed Mother Teresa is dedicated to the Albanian nun, Saint Teresa of Calcutta. It was inaugurated in 2010 by President Ibrahim Rugova of Kosovo on the 100th anniversary of Mother Teresa’s birthday.

It is one of the tallest buildings in Pristina, and it is possible to go up the bell tower at certain hours. The Cathedral is one of the popular destinations in Pristina for followers of Saint Teresa.

9. Cathedral Of Our Lady Of Perpetual Succour

This cathedral is more than just an ideal place of worship; it’s home to the Skanderbeg fresco by Gjergj Panarati.

Painted in 1883, this piece is a must-see for art lovers and anyone interested in religious history.

10. Visoki Decani Monastery

A short trip to the Visoki Decani Monastery is well worth your time. Built by Serbian King Stefan Decanski, this UNESCO World Heritage site is famous for its medieval frescoes. I

t’s a peaceful spot that offers a mix of history, art, and spirituality.

11. Take A Day Trip To The Gracanica Monastery

To get to this top tourist site in Pristina, you will need to travel. Grancanica Monastery is located 10 km away from the city, so it’s not too far.

Built by King Stefan Milutin in 1321 on a 6th-century church’s ruins, the monastery is famous for its double inscribed cross ceiling and dome structure. One of the best sites in Pristina reflecting Serbo-Byzantine architecture, the monastery is now the Bishop of Raska’s official seat and UNESCO  World Heritage site .

What language do they speak in Pristina? Most of the population speaks Albanian and Serbian, but English, German, Bosnian, and Turkish are also widely spoken.

Did you know? After Tirana , Pristina ranks as the second-largest city in the world in terms of an Albanian-speaking population.

12. Partisan Martyrs Cemetery

For a more somber experience, head to the Partisan Martyrs Cemetery. It’s a tribute to those who fought in World War II.

The cemetery offers a quiet space for contemplation and a stark reminder of the region’s turbulent history.

Art And Architecture In Pristina

13. visit the weird national library of kosovo.

This kind of weird-looking structure is one of the top places of interest in Pristina and is listed as one of the ugliest buildings in the world.

The National Library of Kosovo must be seen while in Pristina! Supposedly a melting of Byzantine and Islamic architecture, the 99 white domes provide natural lighting to the library and resemble the Albanian national hat “plisi.”

This Pristina attraction is like a prison outside and a regular library from the inside.

14. The Newborn Monument

The Newborn Monument is one of Pristina’s latest additions, and it’s got a real meaning behind it. This is designed to show that Kosovo is one of Europe’s newest countries , hence the newborn analogy. The monument was initially built to mark Kosovo’s independence from Serbia back in 2008.

15. Spot Street Art

Pristina is full of iconic street art, and walking around and spotting it is a great way to spend your time. Plus, it’s free! Just wear some comfortable shoes and take your camera.

A lot of the murals are located in the center of Pristina itself, including a mural of the famous singer Dua Lipa! However, make sure you venture outside of the city center as you’ll also find some fantastic pieces of art dotted around the suburbs.

16. Visit The National Gallery

Right next to the University Library, you’ll find the National Gallery, which is free to enter. It’s a great way to learn more about local art, and there is a large exhibition dedicated to it.

17. The Mother Teresa Statue

You’ll see statues and nods to Mother Teresa all around the city, but this is the main one. Located in the city center, this statue is made of bronze and shows Mother Teresa standing with a child.

The design is said to show how some people in the world are less fortunate than others and that we should show the same level of kindness to everyone.

18. Milos Obilic Statue

In Pristina, you’ll find the statue of Milos Obilic, a significant figure from the 14th century.

Known for his role in the Battle of Kosovo, notably his assassination of the Ottoman Sultan, this statue is more than just a landmark. It’s a piece of history right in the heart of the city, perfect for those who love to dive into the historical tales of the places they visit.

19. Pristina Spomenik

Check out the Pristina Spomenik, a standout piece of Yugoslav architecture from the 1960s. It’s a symbol of unity and brotherhood. While you’re there, think about what this monument might have meant during its time.

It’s an excellent spot for a photo and a bit of reflection on the city’s past.

20. The Përmendorja Statue

The Përmendorja statue is located in the center of the city, and it’s designed to commemorate the soldiers who died during the Liberation Struggle in World War II.

Initially, the statue was created in grey, as most statues are, but now it’s been painted in a vibrant purple color, which certainly makes it stand out, even if it does seem a bit odd.

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Public squares and outdoor attractions, 21. visit the monument at skanderbeg square.

Next on the list of places to see in Pristina is Skanderbeg Square. After the Kosovo conflict in 1999 ended, the Albanians in Kosovo erected this monument to Gjergj Kastrioti, who’s famously known as Skanderbeg.

He was a nobleman from the 15th century who fought against the Ottoman rulers. This Pristina top 10 contender, locally known as Sheshi Skënderbeu, resembles statues in Tirana, Albania, and Skopje , Macedonia.

22. Bill Clinton Boulevard

Yes, there is a boulevard dedicated to the former US president. This area was named in Clinton’s honor as a way of marking the help the US gave to Kosovo during the war.

It’s an excellent place to visit to say you’ve been, and it’s another area that’s great for people-watching and enjoying a coffee.

23. People-Watching On MT Boulevard

A great way to spend an hour or so is to grab a tea or coffee and sit and watch the world go by on MT Boulevard.

You’ll find lots of cafes and the most beautiful places to eat around here, and it’s always a bustling, sociable place. People watching here is fantastic; from locals to tourists, you’ll see it all.

Be sure to head here during the evening and enjoy a delicious traditional meal, too.

24. Old Clock Tower

Don’t miss the Old Clock Tower. It’s not just a pretty structure; it’s a slice of Pristina’s history. Great for a photo opportunity and a quick lesson in the city’s past.

25. Batlava Lake

Need a break from the city? Drive out to Batlava Lake. It’s a peaceful spot, great for relaxing and enjoying some natural scenery. Plus, it’s an important water source for the area, which is pretty interesting.

Unique Experiences

26. wander through the bazaar of pristina.

Pristina Bazaar, the Bazaar of Pristina or Carshia e Prishtines, was the main bazaar in the Old City of Pristina since the 15th century. Much of it was destroyed during the 1950s and 1960s, and government buildings were put up in their place.

But you can still see the old Bazaar Hammam and Bazaar Mosque and Pristina tourist attractions. The remnants of the bazaar area are filled with vendors selling vegetables, appliances, and many flea market items.

A must-see in Pristina!

27. Visit The Mesozoic Era Gadime Caves

Found in 1966 by Ahmet Asllani’s villager while working in his garden, the Marble Cave, or Gadime Cave in theime e Ulët, Lipljan is a Mesozoic era karst limestone cave.

FulThe ves can be visited on a guided tour . It is full of remarkable stalactite and stalagmite formations, although you’ll have to drive for half an hour to get here; it’s one of the most amazing places to visit around Pristina.

28. Climb The Bell Tower

While you’re visiting Mother Teresa Cathedral, make sure you venture up the bell tower and check out the fantastic views.

This is the highest point in the city that you can go to, so you’re going to see panoramas that take your breath away. Don’t worry; you don’t need to walk as there is an elevator that will take you right to the top for just a couple of Euros.

29. The Heroinat Memorial

The Heroinat Memorial is definitely worth visiting as it’s designed to commemorate the women who suffered and gave up so much during the war.

It is located across from the Newborn Monument, and it shows 20,000 pins. Each pin represents one woman who suffered horrendous sexual violence from Serbian soldiers during the war.

It’s a harrowing thing to think about, but it’s something everyone should see and give a few moments of quiet contemplation to.

30. National Theatre of Kosovo

Looking for something to do in Pristina at night? Catch a play at the National Theatre of Kosovo. It’s a great way to soak up some local culture and see what the contemporary art scene in Kosovo is all about.

31. Drink Rakia

Rakia in Albania is a traditional alcoholic beverage widely consumed. It is a type of fruit brandy commonly made from grapes, but it can also be produced using other fruits like plums, apricots, apples, pears, or cherries.

Rakia is known for its strong flavor and high alcohol content, often homemade in rural areas, and plays a significant role in Albanian social and cultural events. It’s a popular drink for toasting and celebrations, reflecting an important aspect of Albanian hospitality and culinary tradition – so be sure to try it.

Best Places To Visit In Pristina To Taste Local Food

Food is something you can never do without on your travels! And if you know me, you would know that I love a local restaurant on my travels. Pristina has so much delicious local fare to try. Getting stuffed with steaks and ajvar or drinking local craft beers is a good thing to do in Pristina!

Here are the best restaurants (and my favorite) places to visit in Pristina to satisfy the foodie in you:

Te Syla or Alhambra

Located in Sejdi Begu in Shadervan, the Te Syla is a riverside restaurant started by a street food vendor named Sylejman Dapko in 1967. The simple décor and superb location complement the exquisite dishes served here.

If you visit, try the fantastic Balkan Grill, kebabs, grilled pastries, and other dishes. The official name of the restaurant, though, is Alhambra.

Besimi Beska

The colorful plates at Besimi Beska are so pretty; they’ll leave you not wanting to touch your food. The portions are generous, and the food is delicious.

Try the mixed grill, the goulash , steaks, and local bread with cheese. The bread, naans, and pizzas are made in traditional brick ovens.

The restaurant is located in Shadervanit 56 in Old Town and has a small pond and trees.

Princessa Gresa Restaurant

Located on Fehmi Agani Street, the Princessa Gresa Restaurant is famous for its unique Fish Plate and Ramstek viqi Veal Steak. It’s one of Pristina’s top tourist destinations that keeps guests returning for more!

Soma Book Station

A local favorite, Soma Book Station, looks like an extensive library that serves food and drink . Local beers and seasonal wines accompany the tasty food served here.

Guests can spend hours here renting books for just 1 Euro or playing old vinyl records.

If you love John Cage, Chet Baker, and Sonny Rollins, you’ll love grabbing a drink or meal at Soma Book Station. It’s a must on your Pristina to-do list!

Pishat is one of Pristina’s downtown restaurants that has been serving local Albanian food for over 35 years. It’s easy to find, priced slightly on the higher side, but serves excellent Lavazza coffee and a range of Albanian dishes.

Restaurant Liburnia

Enter Restaurant Liburnia, and you’ll feel like you’ve entered a fairytale or a novel. The restaurant close to the town hall is filled with lamps, vines and creepers and has a traditional ambiance.

It’s on the list of top Pristina places to visit to try local freshly baked bread and meat dishes.

Renaissance

This restaurant is easy to miss because the wooden doors look like they belong to someone’s home. No outside sign indicates you’ve reached one of the famous Pristina attractions.

There’s no menu here, either! You go in, get seated, and the server serves you various local food and drinks until you’re full. It’s like a buffet on your own.

Sometimes you must wait long for a table, but it’s worth it! A favorite with the locals, the Renaissance is at the top of the list of things to do in Pristina for food lovers.

One of the cool things to do in Pristina when on holiday is to sit out on a sunny terrace and enjoy a glass of wine. You can do that here at the Tiffany while tasting delicious organic food and freshly baked bread.

The restaurant also sells jars of its famous Ajvar sauce that you can take home as a memento of your Pristina travel.

• Foods To Try In Kosovo

Where To Stay When You Visit Pristina

You’ll find plenty of accommodation close to the things to do in Prishtina; here are some of our top picks:

Swiss Diamond Hotel Prishtina

Just 100 meters from the Center of Prishtina and right next to the landmarks in Pristina, such as the Parliament Hall and National Theater, the Swiss Diamond Hotel Prishtina offers 5-star facilities and Kosovo’s most prestigious spa.

Hotel Sirius

The luxurious Hotel Sirius has a fantastic rooftop restaurant with views of the best Pristina sights, a stone’s throw from the best things to see in Pristina.

Golden Hotel

If you’re wondering where to go in Pristina, that’s simplistic but rich; the Golden Hotel has beautiful rooms and suites where all the beds have lovely golden borders. It’s within 1 km walking distance from the Mother Teresa Cathedral.

Hotel Nartel

Centrally located in Pristina, the Hotel Nartel offers comfortable and straightforward 4-star rooms within a 5500-meter walk from all the restaurants and stuff to do in Pristina.

Hotel Pejton

Close to the City Centre and Pristina attractions, the Hotel Pejton offers clean and comfortable rooms within walking distance of all the top places to see in Pristina.

Hotel Adria

With economical and decorated elegant rooms, the Hotel Adria is in the heart of town and within walking distance of the top tourist attractions in Pristina.

• Best Hotels In Kosovo
• Where To Stay In Pristina

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FAQs About Pristina

What are the main attractions in pristina.

Pristina has a variety of main attractions, including the Newborn Monument, the National University Library, the Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa, the Bill Clinton Statue, the Ethnological Museum, and the Unfinished Serbian Orthodox Church.

What is the best time to visit Pristina?

The best time to visit Pristina is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) when the weather is pleasant. The city can get quite hot in the summer and cold in the winter.

How can I get to Pristina?

The easiest way to reach Pristina is by flying into Pristina International Airport. Alternatively, you can take buses from neighboring countries to reach the city.

What are the options for accommodation in Pristina?

Pristina offers a range of accommodation options, including hostels, budget/mid-range hotels, and luxury hotels. Some popular choices include the Grand Hotel, Dit e Nat, and the House of Jashar Pasha.

Is there public transport available in Pristina?

Yes, Pristina has a public transport system consisting of buses that can take you around the city. Taxis are also readily available.

What are some recommended restaurants in Pristina?

Pristina has numerous excellent restaurants. Some popular choices include Prince Coffee House, Restaurant Bears, and the Metal Fishing Net. The city is known for its delicious local cuisine.

What are some historical sites to visit in Pristina?

Pristina has a rich history, and there are several historical sites to explore. Some notable attractions include the Emin Gjiku Complex, the Ottoman period Old House, the Statue of Mother Teresa, and the Prizren Fortress.

What is the significance of Pristina in Kosovo’s history?

Pristina is the capital city of Kosovo and holds great importance in the country’s history. It has witnessed significant events during the Kosovo War and the ethnic tensions in the region. It serves as a symbol of Kosovo’s struggle for independence.

Is English widely spoken in Pristina?

Yes, English is widely spoken in Pristina, making it easier for visitors to communicate with locals and navigate the city.

What is the best way to explore downtown Pristina?

Downtown Pristina is best explored on foot. The main street, Mother Teresa Boulevard, is a favorite place of mine to start showing off this city on a walk, as it offers a great ambiance with shops, cafes, and beautiful mosques.

What is the unique feature of Pristina?

Pristina stands out as Europe’s newest country and exhibits a mix of Ottoman, Balkan, and contemporary influences. It has a vibrant art scene, a strong coffee culture, and a youthful atmosphere.

Are there any natural attractions near Pristina?

Yes, Germia Park is a beautiful park located near Pristina. It offers walking trails, picnic spots, and a chance to spot the native brown bears in the Bear Sanctuary.

Is Pristina a safe city to visit?

Pristina is generally a safe city to visit, and tourists are welcomed warmly. As with any travel destination, it is always advisable to take common safety precautions and be aware of your surroundings.

What are some local markets to explore in Pristina?

Pristina has several local markets where you can experience the local atmosphere and find unique goods. Some popular markets include Bulevardi NëNë Tereza Market and the Albanian Flags Market.

Is there a free walking tour available in Pristina?

Yes, Pristina offers a free walking tour, which is a great way to explore the city, learn about its history, and uncover hidden gems. Check with local tour agencies or tourist information centers for the most up-to-date schedules and meeting points.

What is the Kosovo War, and how does it relate to Pristina?

The Kosovo War was a conflict that took place in the late 1990s between the Serbian forces and the Kosovo Liberation Army. Pristina served as a significant battleground during the war, and remnants of the conflict can still be seen in the city.

• Cities You’ve Got To See In Kosovo
• What To Eat And Drink In Kosovo
• Where To Stay In Kosovo
• Rent A Car In Kosovo
• A Guide To Tipping In Kosovo
• Travel Between Pristina And Skopje, Macedonia
• National Parks In Kosovo
• 7 Day Kosovo Itinerary

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12 Things to Do in Pristina: A Culture-Filled, Coffee-Fueled Travel Guide to Kosovo’s Capital City

Bazaars, museums, architecture and designer cafes – Kosovo’s biggest city does it all incredibly well. This culture and coffee-oriented guide covers the best things to do in Pristina Kosovo plus recommended side trips.

Of all the big Balkan cities I visited on my six-month trip around the region, I think Pristina (also written as Prishtina or Prishtinë) surprised me the most.

As well as being the youngest European capital, it’s definitely one of the most underrated .

Unlike many first-time travellers to Kosovo , we didn’t start our trip in Pristina, we ended it there. I’m not sure if my impressions would be different had we done our Kosovo itinerary in reverse, but ending in the capital was the right choice for us and certainly felt like finishing on a high.

Prizren is considered Kosovo’s cultural hub, Gjakova the prettiest city , and Peja is the gateway to nature. Having already experienced all three, we found Pristina, the largest city and most cosmopolitan, to be a nice combination of all of the above – with some unexpected and fascinating architecture thrown in.

Laid-back and lively all at once, with a hip cafe and bar scene and some fantastic outdoor public spaces, Pristina is a beautiful city and one of my top choices to include on your Balkans itinerary.

Here are my favourite things to do in Pristina plus a map, travel tips, suggested Pristina itinerary, and more.

Please note: This post contains affiliate links, meaning I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). Learn more.

Where to stay in Pristina

Pristina offers a good mix of budget and mid-range accommodations plus plenty of apartment rentals. It’s also home to the finest boutique hotel in Kosovo, the social-focused Hotel Gračanica.

Boutique: If you want to experience Kosovo’s first boutique hotel, Swiss-run and multi-ethnic-owned Hotel Gračanica is superbly styled, with a luxurious pool and an on-site restaurant. It’s located 15-20 minutes’ by taxi (a 5 Euro fare) from Pristina, close to Gračanica Monastery. Even if you aren’t staying the night, you can still visit for the day – you’ll find it featured later on my list of things to do in Pristina.

Mid-range: Stay Ok is a good no-frills choice. A room at City Inn will set you back a few more Euro, but the stylish decor and central location are worth it.

Budget: ODA Hostel (dorms + privates with shared bathroom) is the top choice among Pristina’s hostels.

Self-contained: When researching for our visit, we were surprised at how many cool apartment rentals there are in Pristina. We ended up staying at an Airbnb inside the iconic Kurrizi Complex. I’ve gone to the liberty of curating a list of the city’s most stylish Airbnb apartments – find it here .

Getting around Pristina

Pristina city centre is compact and flat; everything on this list (apart from Hotel Gračanica and the Bear Sanctuary Pristina) can be reached from the centre on foot. 

A DIY walking tour is a great way to take in the highlights. Information tablets have been placed throughout the city to mark important landmarks, and there are large tourist maps positioned prominently on every other block.

Just know that Google Maps isn’t always reliable, especially on the back streets around the Ethnographic Museum.

I’ll admit that I don’t know anything about public transport in Pristina because we never had occasion to use it. You can read-up on Pristina’s city buses here .

If you prefer to explore the city with a guide, I recommend this private 3-hour walking tour of the city centre .

12 wonderful things to do in Pristina

Wandering what to do in Pristina? Here’s my culture and coffee filled guide to the best things to do.

1. Climb the cathedral tower for a view of the city

Whenever I arrive in a new city, I like to start with a bird’s eye view so I can better visualise its size and layout. By this stage of my Balkans trip, I honestly couldn’t count the number of clock towers, bell towers, fortresses and hillocks I’ve climbed!

The tower adjoining the Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa is the best vantage point in Pristina and a must-do. From 250 feet up, you can look down on Miti Park and the iconic National Library of Kosovo to the east. To the south and west, Pristina’s suburbs – huge conglomerations of socialistic-style concrete blocks – roll out along sparkling highways.

The tower is accessible by elevator and entrance costs 1 Euro. There are no official opening hours that I could find, but locals assure me the tower is open daily until sunset, with a short break in the middle of the day for lunch.

2. Go inside the Cathedral of Saint Mother Theresa

While you’re there, take a moment to visit the church itself. The biggest Catholic cathedral in Kosovo, it only opened to worshipers in 2009.

I’ve really enjoyed observing the differences between Orthodox and Roman Catholic churches in the Balkans, and the contrast in Pristina couldn’t be starker. Everything is shiny and new, and the sparsely decorated, spacious interior truly sparkles.

Take note of the stained glass windows that line both sides of Saint Teresa Cathedral’s nave and the pews adorned with eagle heads. The Saint Teresa window pictured was gifted to the church by a benefactor with the family name, Lush!

3. Wander down Mother Teresa Boulevard

Pristina is very much an outdoor city and as long as you’re not visiting in winter, you’ll find the streets are always alive with cafes, flower markets and groups of friends out for a stroll.

Traipsing up and down the cobbled streets around Shadervani and along Agim Ramadani Street, the main drag, is an activity in itself. The pedestrian-only Mother Teresa Boulevard (Bulevardi Nënë Tereza) is lined with shady trees and delightful little shop cubes, where stallholders trade blossoms and second-hand books.

A small farmers’ fresh produce market is also held on the street every morning.

Watch elderly gents, always in pairs, chatting away the afternoon while groups of friends crisscross the boulevard, hopping from one trendy cafe to the next. Pause for just a moment and someone is bound to approach you and strike up a conversation.

In the evenings, most of these venues transform into bars, serving craft brews, wine by the glass and draught beer.

At its northern end, Mother Teresa boulevard terminates at Skanderbeg Square, where an imposing statue of the Albanian general stands in wait.

4. Stop for coffee at Soma Book Station

Not familiar with Kosovo’s coffee culture? I have two words for you: Big macchiato.

A close cousin of the Australian flat white, the humble macchiato is the beverage of choice across Kosovo. (Put that Turkish coffee away!) Hand on heart, coffee in Kosovo is the smoothest and tastiest I’ve had since we left Colombia , and probably the best I’ve had anywhere in Europe (sorry, Italy).

Even the smallest, most unassuming (and downright dodgy looking) cafes make a mean macchiato. Kosovar baristas sure know how to work an Italian coffee machine – and a big macchiato will never cost you more than 1 Euro (the cheapest we had was 80 cents, and it was still fantastic!).

Prince Coffee House (a Kosovar chain that recently opened a branch in The Bronx) is probably the most popular cafe in Pristina. But my personal favourite place to grab a drink is definitely Soma Book Station.

5. Visit the Imperial Mosque

There are more than 500 mosques in Kosovo. If you’re going to visit just one in Pristina, make it the Sultan Mehmet Fatih Mosque, an active mosque and one of the city’s most revered cultural monuments.

Known locally as the Imperial Mosque (Džamija cara), it was constructed in 1461 and is a stunning example of Ottoman architecture. It’s definitely more restrained than other mosques I’ve seen in the region but just like the nearby cathedral, it has an understated beauty. The stone ablution fountain, set in the front garden, is particularly impressive.

I’m not entirely sure of the visitor’s policy at the Imperial Mosque. After some confusion over whether or not we should buy a ticket, we were shown inside free of charge (although our chaperone didn’t turn the lights on for us, maybe because he didn’t know where the switch was!).

There is an Islamic bookstore on the street just below the mosque where you can usually find someone to let you in. If there’s no one there, don’t fret: I actually thought the paintings on the exterior domes were just as impressive as the interior.

On the same street, the petite Jashar Pasha Mosque (Xhamia e Jashar Pashës) and the 15th century Bazaar Mosque (Xhamia e Çarshisë) are also worth a look in. The latter is among the oldest surviving structures in Pristina.

6. Lose yourself in Pristina’s old market, Tregu i vjeter

We got completely disoriented trying to navigate our way from the mosque to the Ethnological Museum and happened upon a raging green market in the winding back streets. We later learned that Tuesday is market day in Pristina, when the alleys around what used to be the Pristina Bazaar fill up with fruit, veg and dairy vendors from the surrounding villages.

In the 16th century, the Pristina Bazaar was known throughout the region as a trading hub. At its peak, it contained more than 300 shops, as well as a hammam and a mosque. Sadly, most of the complex was destroyed in the 1960s as part of the city’s urban ‘regeneration’ program. From old photos, it looked a lot like the bazaar in Gjakova, which is the biggest in Kosovo today.

The buildings may be gone, but the tradition still continues. Inside a permanent undercover market adjacent to the Ethnography Museum people sell electronics, hardware and other products.

To see the green market in action and the streets abuzz with shoppers and men pulling wooden carts, you should try to time your visit for a Tuesday morning.

7. Step back in time at the Pristina Ethnographic Museum

Keeping with the regional tradition of turning former private residences into house museums , Pristina’s Ethnological Museum (also called The Ethnological Treasure of Kosovo) is set in the Emin Gjiku Complex, an 18th-century property that belonged to one of Pristina’s wealthiest Kosovar-Turkish families.

Three buildings, each one with outstanding architectural flourishes, house artefacts collected from Pristina and around Kosovo between the 15th and 20th centuries. Textiles, furniture, dowry trunks and kitchen utensils tell the story of how the city’s traders once lived and practiced their culture.

In the sitting room, a raised bench for guests and lowered seating for the family speaks to the Albanian tradition of welcoming outsiders unequivocally into one’s home. The museum curator told us the house was even used to shelter Jewish refugees during the war.

Two of the museum’s three buildings were closed for renovation at the time of our visit, but luckily we could still tour the main house. The curator is usually on hand to show guests around (note that the museum is closed on Mondays). Entry is free, but donations are appreciated. More information and opening hours can be found here .

8. Go inside the National Library of Kosovo

Does the National Library of Kosovo deserve the title of the world’s ‘ugliest’ building? I’ll let you be the judge. Wherever you fall, I think it’s worth a visit – if only to see the unusual facade of the building, which looks like a huge coil of chain, up close.

Completed in 1982, the library’s design is the fever dream of Croatian architect Andrija Mutnjaković. Its more-redeeming design features can be found inside: A stunning geometric floor mosaic (it’s actually tiered with shallow stairs) dominates the entryway.

There are some nice wall mosaics and retro fittings among the semi-abandoned upstairs rooms.

Visitors get free reign inside the library, including the upstairs reading rooms. I feel a pang of sadness whenever I see books being mistreated: I’m sure staff here are doing their best (and there were a lot of them – and visitors – around), but we saw a lot of disheveled piles and ripped books laying about. In one of the rooms, there is a conveyor belt that looks as if it hasn’t been used in decades.

The best views of the library are available from the cathedral tower.

9. Take a selfie at the Newborn Monument

Another Pristina icon, the Newborn monument was unveiled on 17 February 2008, the day Kosovo declared its independence. Every year, to mark the anniversary of the declaration, a different artist is invited to reimagine and reinvigorate the monument by repainting it with different motifs – usually designed to echo broader political or cultural conversations.

In 2019, Newborn was decorated with patterns to represent energy, water, oxygen, nature, biodiversity and recycling.

Make sure you also visit the much more sombre Heroinat Memorial opposite Newborn, which pays tribute to the women victims of the Kosovo War.

10. Visit the Kurrizi Complex, Pristina’s biggest housing estate

As you’ve probably guessed from my recent dispatch from Bratislava , I’m fascinated with socialistic-style housing projects and Brutalist architecture. When I studied architecture history as part of my bachelor’s degree, this was one of the topics I chose to focus on!

Like all major cities in the region, Pristina has a number of large-scale modernist housing projects – civilian microcosms that were intended to be self-sustaining. Dardania and Ulpiana are two Pristina neighbourhoods where this post-1945 style of robust architecture – dominated by concrete, glass and iron – prevails.

The Kurrizi Complex is another great example. Meaning ‘Spine’, it was designed by Yugoslavian state-owned firm Plan Zagreb and remains the largest shopping and housing project in the city. It comprises three sections: A ground floor with an enclosed shopping street and tunnel so that cars can pass under the building (cool!); a 400 metre ‘boulevard’ lined with more shops; and multi-storey housing towers with hundreds of apartments.

We were lucky enough to stay in an Airbnb inside Kurrizi Complex – it was a very unique experience! Even if you just drop by for a visit, it’s a fun place to observe a slice of daily Pristina life.

There are plenty of cafes and bars on the boulevard level where you can stop for a drink. One of the bakeries inside the complex (just to the left of the market pictured above) makes the best burek I ate in Kosovo.

The Kurrizi Complex is located directly behind the statue of American President Bill Clinton and the nearby ‘Hillary’ boutique – two of Pristina’s quirkier tourist attractions.

11. Take a side trip to Gračanica Monastery & Hotel

I was lucky enough to visit all four of the monasteries that make up the UNESCO-listed Medieval Monuments in Kosovo. Gračanica Monastery was probably the most relaxed and tranquil of the lot.

Only 10km or less than 30 minutes from downtown Pristina by bus, it’s an easy side trip from the capital and well worth the journey.

While you’re in the area, I highly recommend stopping for lunch at the nearby Hotel Gračanica. A Swiss-operated hotel, it’s one of very few venues in Kosovo that employs people from a range of ethnic backgrounds (Kosovar, Serb and Roma), including in management positions. The hotel has serious eco credentials and there’s also a pool that you can pay to use. Even better, you can spend the night and use all the facilities as a guest.

The interior decoration is on-point and the food is delicious.

Getting to Gračanica from Pristina couldn’t be easier: Just take a bus bound for Gjilan and ask the driver to let you off early. The trip takes 15 minutes and costs a couple of Euros.

Contrary to some reports online about ethnic tensions in the predominantly Serb Gračanica, bus drivers don’t seem to have any issue with taking tourists to the monastery – at least in our experience.

12. Take a side trip to Badovc Lake & Bear Sanctuary Prishtina

This accredited ethical animal sanctuary houses 20 rescued brown bears on a beautiful 16-hectare property just east of the city.

Visitors are welcome to explore the facility and eat at the onsite restaurant, with proceeds going to support Bear Sanctuary Pristina’s work to rescue mistreated animals. The nearby Badovc Lake is accessible via a hiking trail from the sanctuary.

To get to the Bear Sanctuary from Pristina you can take a Gjilan regional bus or a Blue Taxi for €12 one-way. See here for details.

Where to eat & drink: Best Pristina restaurants

If you need a wee break from Balkan cuisine, Pristina is a great place to reset your palate. We only ate out a couple of times and cooked at home (read: ransacked the local bakery!) the rest of the time.

If we ever make it back, we’ll have to remind ourselves to check out more of the international dining options, including Himalayan Gorkha Restaurant and one of the many Mexican joints in town.

Home Restaurant & Bar | This cosy traditional restaurant is a Pristina institution and favourite among expats. The menu covers both Balkan and European cuisines, and the Lebanese salad with hummus and falafel is to die for.

Restaurant Liburnia | Veal tava (sauteed veal with veggies) is the specialty at this beautiful restaurant. For the best experience, sit outside beneath the vines.

Thai Restaurant | Finding good Asian food in the Balkans feels like stumbling on El Dorado. As soon as the owner of the laconically named Thai Restaurant greeted us with an animated sawatdee kaaaa, we knew we were in for a treat. We ate two curries, massaman beef and chicken pineapple. Both were a little thin but tasted top-notch.

Fehmi Agani ‘Bar Street’ | Another dining hub in Pristina, ‘Bar Street’ is a great place to grab a drink. Try MIQT for craft beers from around Kosovo plus rakia.

Hamam Jazz Bar | Experience Pristina nightlife at this popular club.

Pristina map

Click here to open & save my Pristina Map on Google Drive .

How to spend a day in Pristina: Suggested Pristina itinerary

Whether you’re planning a short city trip or using Pristina as your entry point for a longer journey around Kosovo , here is how I suggest you structure your one day in Pristina.

• Breakfast at Soma Book Station (open from 8am Monday-Saturday)
• Visit Pristina’s three mosques
• Pristina Ethnographic Museum
• Old Green Market area
• Lunch at Liberna or Home Restaurant

Afternoon :

• Mother Teresa Cathedral & belltower
• The National Library of Kosovo
• Bill Clinton statue
• Kurrizi Complex
• Dinner & drinks on Fehmi Agani

How to get to Pristina

Pristina Airport is serviced by flights from Munich, Vienna, Istanbul and other cities across Europe.

Most people will end up traveling to Pristina overland. I recommend using Gjirafa.com to check schedules and fares. Always confirm times locally before you travel.

Example bus times:

• Prizren to Pristina | Departures every 30 minutes | 2 hours | €4
• Gjakova to Pristina | Departures every 30-60 minutes | 1.5 hours | €4
• Skopje (North Macedonia) to Pristina | Departures every 30 minutes | 2.5 hours | €5
• Tirana (Albania) to Pristina | Departures every 30-60 minutes | 4 hours | €10

Pristina’s main bus station Stacioni i Autobusve is located in the south-west of the city, 30 minutes by foot from Newborn.

Day trip to Pristina

If you’re short on time or you don’t want to stay overnight in Kosovo, a popular option is to visit Pristina as a day trip from Skopje . The two cities are less than 100km apart and interconnected by regular buses and vans.

If you plan to visit Pristina as a day trip from Skopje, I would seriously consider booking a tour that includes a private car transfer to maximise your time in the city. Otherwise, you’ll be spending most of your time on the bus.

This full-day tour departing Skopje visits both Pristina and Prizren, thus giving you a good overview of Kosovo’s two biggest (but very different) cities.

What to pack for Pristina

• A good quality backpack. If you plan on moving around Kosovo by bus, it’s a good idea to travel light. I recommend using an anti-theft backpack for your day pack.
• A scarf (women). A lightweight cotton scarf is my number one travel essential. In Pristina, it will come in handy for covering your hair when entering the mosques and churches. This neutral travel scarf goes with anything and it even has a hidden pocket.
• Good walking shoes. You’ll be doing a lot of walking in Pristina! Comfy shoes are essential – I love these ones for women, while my partner lives in these waterproof shoes .
• A reusable water bottle. I always travel with a S’Well water bottle .
• Biodegradable wet wipes. Try this convenient travel pack .
• Entertainment for bus journeys. If you don’t suffer from motion sickness, an e-reader is great for passing the time on road journeys. If you have a travel buddy, pick up a headphone splitter – probably my favourite travel gadget of all time – so you can share a screen or a podcast.

Have you been to Kosovo? What are your favourite things to do in Pristina?

Things to do in Pristina: Pin it!

22 Comments

Up-date on the Newborn monument. I visited it yesterday (my second visit to Prishtina, 3 days last year was not enough, I love Kosovo and the Albanians, so kind and helpful) and this time around the letters now in blue and yellow (the Ukrainian colours I guess) have been moved around: NONEWBR (with the words ‘broken’ and ‘republic’ written on the last two letters. Right now I’m sipping a coffee inside the National Library, I love the tiles and the whole ‘vintage’ style. It’s definitely worth a visit.

Thanks so much for your update, Jane! I saw some photos online of the new Newborn. Have a terrific time in Kosovo!

Emily, have you explored the Dragodan steps in Pristina? There are good restaurants up there. And also going up to Peja/Pec, Rogova mountain is worthy to mention. There are also log cabin restaurants there serving fresh trout and fresh bread. I love their Balkan salad!

Thanks Raul for the recommendations… I didn’t get to the Dragodan steps or restaurants in that area, but thanks to you it’s on the list for next time! We stayed a few nights in Peja and went ziplining in Rugova, it was great! I included it in my Kosovo itinerary but your suggestion to visit as a day trip is a great one.

Thanks again for the excellent Pristina tips!

You’ve forgotten to mention Proper Pizza, a franchise gone world wide, HQ in Prishtinë. I’m sorry Italy for the second hit, but that Pizza is truly something else.

Ohhh I’m so devastated I missed it! Thank you so much for the excellent tip! Kosovo needs to start doing gelato!

I really liked reading your post! Very high quality content and useful information.

I would like to start from the cathedral tower to have an overview of the town before touring. I am quite amazed that there are more than 500 mosques! I love your photos.

I have no idea that Kosovo is not recognized by the UN as a nation state. And even more, I never thought Kosovo as the best places in Europe to have coffee. I don’t know whose the person behind the Newborn Monument to re-imagined and re-invigorated by painting it differently every year on their Independence Day, but I think it’s so creative!

The Prishtina market looks lovely and surely a great place to hang out. Also I love the views from the Cathedral tower. The significant Newborn monument sounds unique as it is being repainted each year. I really hope to make a visit to Prishtina someday.

Great guide to Prishtina! I love how the Newborn monument is revitalized every year to reflect what is happening in Kosovo or the world. I share your fascination with socialist style housing and definitely would be interested in visiting that. The Balkans is such an interesting area to travel to.

Thanks, Brianna! Absolutely – our 6-month Balkans trip has been full of pleasant surprises!

Oh, It’s too good. I like this blog very much I also bookmark this.

Wow, what a guide! We traveled through this region a couple summers ago, and unfortunately never made it to Kosovo. But everyone we talked to LOVED it. And after reading this article (and seeing your beautiful photos!) I’m more convinced than ever to get back to this region and make it to Kosovo next time!

One for next time, Katie! It was definitely the highlight of the region (thus far) for us!

Prishtina looks like a great place with a bit of everything.to be honest I never heard about it before and loved reading your post,gathering information . Thanks for sharing

This is such a perfect itinerary for Prishtina. I truly did not know of this little known gem, but it looks so exciting. Your pictures are amazing. Thanks for sharing this.

I had no idea that there were so many amazing things to do in Prishtina! To be completely honest, I’d only heard of it in connection to war. I love the Newborn monument, and your photos of people sitting around chatting. It reminds me of my grandfather and his mates gathering in the village square every day.

Same for me, Katherine – that’s one of the things that made me curious to visit. It’s amazing to see how far things have come since that tragic time. Groups of men chatting on park benches will be one of the things I always remember about the Balkans!

I feel like I never gave either Prishtina or Kosovo the time they deserved. Prishtina was just a quick stop over between Skopje and Tirana and to be honest we only spent a few hours exploring the city – I didn’t even realise you could go inside the National Library. The Kurrizi housing estate sounds of particular interest! Either way this part of the world is so underrated – glad you seem to be enjoying it 🙂

A lot of people just use the city as a stopover, but it’s definitely worth spending a few days! I much preferred it to Skopje. Hope you make it back.

Wow thank you for such a complete guide to the city! I would love to visit Prishtina market. I think that would be my favorite part :).

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Long Weekend: Pristina

The capital of Europe’s youngest country makes for an unconventional city break. Chris Deliso introduces us to the hip bars and live music venues that live alongside Ottoman-era mosques and bazaars in this cosmopolitan meeting point.

While still a lesser-visited Balkan city that won’t win many aesthetics awards, Pristina (spelled locally as Prishtina) has enough sights – and increasingly tempting dining and nightlife options – to keep you entertained over a long weekend. The Kosovo capital’s youthful population and the continued presence of EU and UN missions also have lent it an unexpectedly cosmopolitan vibe, and visiting the capital of Europe’s newest country does indeed feel like being part of history in the making. Further, the city’s proximity to better-known Balkan getaways, like Belgrade , Dubrovnik, Split and Sarajevo makes Pristina a good (and safe) stopover.

Kosovo’s capital city has come a remarkable ways in a short time, considering that the country was a war zone less than 20 years ago, during NATO’s 1999 bombing of Yugoslavia. The Serbian government was forced to cede power to a UN and NATO mission that for years exceeded 25,000 international personnel at a time, creating a sudden windfall for purveyors of goods licit and illicit alike. Long after Kosovo’s unilateral declaration of independence in February 2008, Serbia does not recognize the independence of what it considers a historic province (its position is supported by powerful countries like Russia and China, and several EU states), and political and ethnic differences remain a sensitive subject at times.

However, Kosovo’s de facto independence is understood by all, and things are generally peaceful. A predominantly ethnic Albanian country, Kosovo has a small Serbian minority consigned to a few enclaves, and small populations of ethnic Turks, Roma (Gypsies) and Bosniaks. Modern Pristina’s only remnants of Yugoslav rule are thus its drab concrete apartment blocks and occasional feats of brutalist architecture. This, merged with more recent experiments in reflective blue glass structures and other oddities, as well as historic structures from previous centuries of Ottoman Turkish rule, give the city a most eclectic look; Prishtina is indeed a place where you’ll find industrial supplies shops offsetting the occasional five-star hotel, and ramshackle apartments competing for visibility with a faux Statue of Liberty.

Best of the Beaten Track

As a small city, Prishtina is easily navigated on foot, with clusters of small streets jutting from a few boulevards and squares. Strolling the city, you’ll come across monuments that depict quirks of history and national identity. For example, the Skanderbeg Statue depicts the eponymous medieval warrior who battled the Turks, and who is considered the major national hero of all Albanians. And, while the Clinton brand has taken a beating since the 2016 US elections, you would never know it from the Statue of Bill Clinton erected on the boulevard that bears his name in downtown Prishtina.

Bill Clinton’s boulevard intersects with that of another named for an American president (George W. Bush); on their western corner stands one of Kosovo’s newest and grandest sights, the Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa . Consecrated in 2017, this impressive, voluminous structure decorated with murals is named for the famed ethnic Albanian nun born in neighboring Macedonia in 1910. Although the vast majority of Kosovans are Muslim, there is also a historic Catholic presence (the government and the Vatican are keen to point this out as further evidence of Kosovo’s ‘pro-Western’ orientation). A short walk east of the church is the National Gallery of Kosovo , which displays local contemporary art.

More historic structures dot the remnants of an Ottoman ‘old town,’ a 20-30 minute walk northwards from the church through the center. These include the Ottoman Imperial Mosque of Sultan Mehmet Fatih Mosque, built in 1461. It’s the most impressive of several Ottoman structures that include the nearby Jashar Pasha Mosque , a gleaming Ottoman mosque that was spiffed up by a Turkish-funded renovation in 2015. The latter adjoins the Museum of Kosovo , a stately late 19 th -century structure (that as of late 2017 was still semi-closed for renovations, however). Pristina’s most interesting historic attraction is the Emin Gjiku Ethnographic Museum , a three-minute walk north of the Imperial Mosque. Set in an atmospheric Ottoman-era mansion, the museum hosts a fascinating array of traditional items dating from the 15th and the 20th centuries.

One of Kosovo’s most-visited attractions is actually found eight kilometers out of Prishtina, in the Serbian enclave of Gračanica. Built in 1321 by Serbian King Milutin, the Gračanica Monastery is a UNESCO-listed Orthodox Christian shrine notable for its Byzantine domed style and magnificent frescoes, and definitely warrants a side trip.

Hipster’s Guide

Whereas Western European countries have turned dilapidated or forgotten spots into hipster havens, Kosovo generally lacks such spots, given that it’s still developing. And, just as its international minders have come and gone many interesting places have closed in recent years. There are some quirks of the local imagination, though, which include the centrally-located ‘Newborn’ monument – a big block-letter construction that spells out the initial euphoria that accompanied Kosovo’s independence declaration in 2008. Although its initial brightness (and optimism) have since faded somewhat as the economy remains sluggish, the offbeat statue represents the local imagination of this youthful city.

Indeed, the gradual departure of most of Kosovo’s international peacekeepers after 2008 meant both a challenge and opportunity for a service sector that had been oriented (often, somewhat tackily)  towards an indiscriminate foreign rabble. The departure of these masses, and their cash, created a new DIY mentality. One example of this occurred in 2009, when a shared space was converted into the very popular Dit’ e Nat’ café/bookstore/veggie bar/music venue. A laid-back hang-out for both locals and internationals, this is the place for discussing the latest literature or the Albanian alternative underground in late Yugoslavia over a strong espresso. The café also produces and sells works by local musicians and authors.

Sandwiched between it and the government offices is the popular, creative Soma Book Station , tucked inside a leafy garden. With its lofty wood interior lined with books and historic photos, Soma has great atmosphere. Soma serves as a coffee and breakfast bar by morning, as the day progresses becoming an innovative restaurant with guest DJs, creative cocktails, rare whiskeys and rare vinyl records too.

Experience & Events

The Prishtina Jazz Festival is the top music festival held each fall, featuring prominent international and local musicians. Two more eclectic mixes of local and international live music occur each year, with the DAM Fest for emerging local and international musicians, and the ReMusica Festival for contemporary and experimental music. Meanwhile, the summertime Prishtina Music, Wine and Beer Fest offers up a variety of international and local libations at discounted rates.

Even if you don’t venture inside, do gaze upon the National Library of Kosovo building. One of the final expressions of Yugoslav Communist architecture, it was designed by Andrija Mutnjaković in 1982. Although this Croatian architect probably did not intend to create a multidimensional barbed-wire fence topped by crashed alien pods, that’s one way of describing a building that has had a rather tumultuous history (during the war in 1999, the Yugoslav Army allegedly used it as a secret command center).

When the weather’s warm, locals escape the city smog by taking a short drive out of town to the Germia Park , a leafy expanse with hiking and biking trails, as well as a big outdoor pool and café spots- a good place to unwind and picnic.

Back in the city’s former old town, join the locals again by browsing the bazaar (just west of the main Ottoman mosques and museums) for fruit and veg, bric-a-brac, and all sorts of extras that you probably don’t need… it’s the experience that counts, after all.

Kosovans are also passionate football fans, and you can join the boisterous crowds at the central City Stadium for local and international matches (since 2016, Kosovo was admitted to UEFA and FIFA, allowing it to play other nations for the first time. Tickets are cheap and in the years ahead the city will host more and more quality international matches (see the Football Federation of Kosovo website for updated information).

Pillow Talk

Kosovo’s modern experience of international officials on lavish expense accounts – and now, an increasing number of curious backpackers and other independent travelers – has bestowed Pristina with an unexpectedly rich variety of accommodation for all budgets and tastes. The three most popular youth hostels in town are friendly and inexpensive. The most centrally-located, Hostel Han , offers newly spruced-up dorms and private rooms, with a laid-back vibe, communal kitchen and friendly staff. It’s located within a residential block above a shop, near the Mother Teresa Square. Second is Buffalo Backpackers , a short walk south of center. While it has dorms only, this friendly place does allow campers to pitch their tents in the enclosed yard, and is a relaxing spot with hammocks and a BBQ at the ready. Finally, the White Tree Hostel , 800m from the center, may be Prishtina’s most chilled-out hostel, with renovated dorms, private rooms and a cozy cocktail bar and terrace.

In the midrange category, good offerings are rapidly increasing. If you want to be based in the older part of town (near the historic mosques and museums), try Hotel Prima , which has a nice summer terrace, friendly service and free parking. A more business-oriented midrange pick is Hotel Nartel , just southwest of Mother Teresa Square in the Ulpiana district.

If you feel like splurging, look no further than the five-star Swiss Diamond Hotel . Centrally-located off of the main pedestrian mall, it boasts opulent rooms, a swimming pool, and a truly lavish buffet breakfast- the kind of place where you might literally run into Tony Blair or visiting Arab royalty.

Finally, if you prefer a more bucolic setting and are keen on visiting Gračanica Monastery, the Hotel Gracanica (500m before the monastery, in the eponymous village) offers spacious rooms and a pool. This is a good place for families, and presents the Serbian side of life in Kosovo (and some good restaurants with hearty grills- ask for the rebra sa kajmak , or ribs drizzled with clotted cream). The hotel offers free shuttle bus service to Prishtina.

Prishtina’s near 20-year international presence and emerging tastes mean you’ll find an intriguing mix of European, Asian and of course Balkan cuisines. There isn’t a ‘street food’ culture per se (more of a fast-food one, though quality is not always assured in the plethora of little shops dotting the town). Plenty of bakeries will set you right with a good breakfast of burek (a sort of flaky phyllo pie stuffed with white cheese, spinach or beef). It’s cheap, usually accompanied by drinking yoghurt, and helps cure hangovers. (Along with good Balkan wines and raki, the regional firewater, Kosovo produces decent beer. The national one, Peja, and the first line of microbrews, from the American-Albanian venture Sabaja). Along with the above-mentioned Soma Book Station, other popular standouts include the De Rada Brasserie , an atmospheric place serving good European fare, just three blocks west of the Museum of Kosovo. Also in the old quarter, the nearby Restaurant Liburnia is a bit pricier but has atmospheric rustic décor and generous portions of traditional and international cuisine. The Osteria Basilico is one of several local Italian places, offering arguably the city’s best pastas. Restaurant Pishat , meanwhile, is a dependable destination for pot-roasted traditional dishes, a terrific lamb, and seasonal vegetable dishes. Finally, a great pick for vegetarians is Babaghanoush , a Lebanese restaurant half-hidden down a central laneway, and highly regarded by locals and foreigners alike.

Pristina’s variety of international residents and its friendly young people make it an unexpectedly fun place for a night out. While there are different tastes, it seems (as you’ll see from this list) that a common affection for jazz is shared by many. The city’s dance clubs tend towards the see-and-be-seen, vaguely-Mafioso vibe; much more fun can be had enjoying live music in several hip bars.

Kosovans are rightly proud of their coffee culture, and one of the best places to enjoy a good macchiato is the centrally-located Prince Coffee . By night, among other popular places is Sunshine Lounge Bar , located just southeast of center and good for an early cocktail. Two of the most popular bars in town include Zanzi Jazz Bar (an exuberant bar/club known for its excellent live music) and Hamam Bar , which has won awards and accolades for its eccentric décor and live music featuring international acts, while also boasting fusion cuisine and a good wine list. Another place with live acts is a rock club established in 2017, Rockuzinë .

Getting There

Prishtina International Airport gets flights from numerous Western European countries and Turkey, with the presence of budget carriers like Wizzair, Pegasus, EasyJet and Air Berlin bringing good value flights. Alternatively, you can fly into Skopje’s Alexander the Great Airport in Macedonia (which has a wider and sometimes cheaper range of flights) and reach Prishtina by bus, car or taxi from there (1-2 hours, traffic dependent).

Regular buses also connect Kosovo with European destinations and to neighboring cities in countries like Montenegro, Bosnia, Albania and Macedonia cheaply. Buses to Serbia exist but are more frequent from Serbian-inhabited areas like Gračanica and North Mitrovica. Internally, buses and minivans travel regularly to other towns of interest in Kosovo, such as Mitrovica, Peja and Prizren. A daily train also reaches Skopje in Macedonia.

From the airport to the city center, take a taxi (though waiting cabbies might haggle for more, the price is about 15 euros). The bus station is around 2km from town- you can either walk in, or take a cab (3 euros). Although you won’t need a cab necessarily in this small city, if so doing make sure it’s a licensed one, and ask the driver to put the meter on before as Balkan cabbies have all sorts of methods of maximizing their expected profit. There are also inexpensive local buses. The train station is more centrally located, west of Mother Teresa Boulevard and near the major Western embassies.

Because of the political complexities surrounding Kosovo’s status, travelers planning to travel from Kosovo to Serbia may still have to go via a third country due to Serbian restrictions. However, European citizens who can travel freely with their ID cards should not have this problem, since they will not have to show a passport with the Kosovo stamp. Check locally as the situation may change in future.

Useful local sources of information about city include the Be in Kosovo website , which provides both general information and events listings, as well as professional services like guided tours. The Kosovo Guide website also has some useful information. While most travelers don’t need a visa to enter Kosovo, you can double-check on the Ministry of Foreign Affairs website here .

Bradt Travel Guides publishes a dedicated guide to Kosovo, while Lonely Planet’s Eastern Europe guides contain a chapter on the country. Local author Shefqet Balla’s informative Kosova Guide should be available in local bookshops. Also, your hotel or hostel will ply you with information- more maps, tips and insights than you could imagine, as Kosovans are keen to promote their country.

English-language books that have discussed Kosovo’s tumultuous history include Noel Malcolm’s Kosovo: a Short History and Tim Judah’s Kosovo: War and Revenge (both written around the time of the NATO 1999 bombing, and with a certain political agenda). A bevy of other publications guaranteed to put you in a bad mood fixate on war and politics. Far before them, legendary British travel writer Rebecca West swung through Kosovo in 1937 for her influential 1941 work, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon: A Journey through Yugoslavia .

One useful new book for travelers keen on Kosovo’s Catholic heritage sights is the meticulously researched Catholic Kosovo by Marilyn Kott. You’ll also be sure to find new and different works of various sorts in some of the bookstore-cafés mentioned above.

Silver Screen

Countries that have experienced war tend to beget films bout war; nevertheless everyone was surprised when the short film Shok ( Friend ) was nominated for an Oscar in 2016; shot in the ethnically-divided city of Mitrovica, this project of British filmmaker Jamie Donoghue chronicled the true story of two friends growing up during the late 1990s conflict period.

Kosovo’s nascent film industry has been re-established in recent years (following an enforced hiatus in the 1990s from Belgrade), with an annual film festival highlighting new productions; some of the best-known Kosovan directors in recent years include Jeton Ahmetaj, Blerta Zeqiri, Ariel Shaban and Isa Qosja, whose 2005 film Kukumi (about the exploits of three mental patients following a foreign liberation) was one of the first post-Yugoslav films made in Kosovo, winning awards at the Venice and Sarajevo film festivals.

Soundtrack to the City

Prishtina – Lindja Në tren për Perzeren – Gjurmët Aq me Ben – Gillespie Kanja Jone – Jericho Rrugëve – Genc Salihu Udhë të mbarë! – Cute Babulja

Video Inspiration

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Current version updated on January 18th, 2018

First published on January 18th, 2018

Posted in City Guide with destination tags Kosovo , Pristina

One thought on “ Long Weekend: Pristina ”

Wow! Pristina sounds great – I will definitely have to add it to my list. Thanks!

Kate | http://www.petiteadventures.org/

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