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How to Transport Betta Fish: Safest Tips & Tricks (Vet Answer)

By Dr. Luqman Javed, DVM (Vet)

Updated on Aug 4, 2024

person transferred betta fish to a plastic bag

Vet approved

Dr. Luqman Javed

DVM (Veterinarian)

The information is current and up-to-date in accordance with the latest veterinarian research.

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Transporting fish is cumbersome but may also be necessary at times. Moving a betta might sound like a simple task, but there are some crucial steps you need to follow to ensure that you don’t cause your fish any harm and make the process as stress-free and streamlined as possible for yourself.

The 2 Situations That May Require Transporting Your Betta

It is odd to imagine transporting your betta. After all, fish shouldn’t be removed from their aquariums even during a water change. Indeed, for most fish, their aquarium will be a stationary, lifelong home.

However, there are scenarios where this may be a necessity. Therefore, it is important to know how to transport your betta.

A vet visit . When an aquatic vet can’t come to your home to inspect your betta and perform a video consultation, you may have to transport your fish to the vet. Sometimes, your vet may advise you to bring in your fish after a video consultation (for a closer examination).
A relocation . If you’re moving houses or changing your address, you might have to transport your fish as well.

1. Transport to a Veterinarian

At times, your veterinarian may prefer to see your betta in person and might request that you bring your betta in for a closer examination. In this instance, you’ll need the following:

A very small transport aquarium or container with a lid
Two spare water containers or empty water bottles with lids or covers

This process is relatively simple, assuming the trip to the vet’s office isn’t too long. If your betta will be out of your aquarium for 6 hours, the following steps can be used.

Fill a spare water container or empty water bottle with water from your betta’s aquarium. Close the lid or cover. A small water bottle that holds about half a liter of water is usually enough for a short trip.
Ensure the transport aquarium is clean. Fill it about halfway with water from your betta’s aquarium. It should also hold around half a liter of water when halfway full.
Gently scoop your betta out in a net, and quickly transfer your pet into the transport aquarium and close the lid. Because ornaments and plants can sometimes topple during a trip, you should not place them in this transport aquarium.
Ensure your car is warm enough for your betta during the trip. An ambient temperature of around 25–28 °C (77–82.4°F) is recommended. Ensure your betta is secure in your car (it’s best to have someone hold your fish). Drive slowly, and use routes without too many bumps or potholes.

If the trip lasts longer than 3 hours, replacing some of the water in your betta’s tank with the spare aquarium water you brought along is advisable. To do so, use the empty container to remove some of the water from the tank and replace an appropriate amount of water from your spare supply.

Though in most cases, you can safely reintroduce your betta to their aquarium after a short trip, you may wish to reacclimate them to the aquarium before doing so (especially if you suspect that the water temperatures have changed while you were away). If your transport aquarium can float in your betta’s aquarium (using a makeshift styrofoam ramp), you can acclimate your fish using the transport aquarium. If the tank cannot float, you would have to use a plastic bag to float your fish before adding them back into the tank.

2. A Relocation

A long trip for a relocation is much trickier and generally requires more preparation. To prepare for such a trip, you’ll need the following:

A small transport aquarium with a secure lid or at least two plastic bags and a Tupperware container large enough to hold the bags (with a secure lid).
Spare plastic bags (optional). These are used for other fish or aquarium plants
A few water-holding containers. A 5- to 10-gallon bucket or another container is recommended (ensure they have lids).
Your gravel vacuum or siphon
Ammonia chips or ammonia-neutralizing medicine (optional)

The 10 Steps for a Driving Relocation

This process is relatively cumbersome and requires some planning. If you plan on flying with your fish, contact your airlines for their guidelines on how your fish should be transported. The steps for a driving relocation that takes less than 48 hours (2 days) are as follows:

1. Water Change

Feed your fish their usual food for the day, and then change at least 20–25% of the water in your aquarium 3 days before your trip. Please note that this advice assumes an appropriately stocked aquarium. Heavier-stocked aquariums will require more extensive changes.

2. Stop Feeding

Two days before your trip, stop feeding your fish. This minimizes the waste they produce during a long trip. Healthy, adult fish have no problems dealing with a fast of a few days. If your fish are young or unwell, try postponing your trip (if possible) or seek veterinary advice before fasting and transporting your fish.

3. Move Day

On the day of the move, fill the transport aquarium or plastic bag (depending on your choice) with some aquarium water, gently scoop up your betta, and place them in the transport unit.

Note : As labyrinth fish, bettas don’t require their plastic bags or transport aquariums to be full of oxygen for short trips; however, adding the oxygen into the bags will do them no harm.

If you are transporting your betta fish in a bag, ensure you seal it properly and double the bag for an added layer of security. Before sealing the bag, you may add some ammonia-absorbing chips or medicine into the water. This should be considered mandatory if your trip will take more than 24 hours.

If your aquarium has additional fish, ensure you place each one of them in an individual bag. Fish with sharp fins may easily tear open a plastic bag, and such fish should be placed in containers, not plastic bags.

Note : Your betta’s tank mates may need oxygen pumped into their transport bags & may have needs different from those of your betta.

4. Drain Tank

After your fish have been placed in their transport bags or tanks, drain the tank to the substrate (if any). Try salvaging some aquarium water in buckets or spare containers, depending on your space in your transport vehicle.

Please be mindful that aquariums should NOT be moved when they are full of water. Aquariums are designed to be stationary. They are exceptionally heavy when full of water. Uneven water pressure hitting the walls of a full aquarium being moved can cause glass aquariums to crack or shatter.

5. Pack Plants, Filter, and Substrate

If your tank has a substrate layer, you should place it in a bucket with a very thin layer of water (just enough to cover the substrate). Pack aquarium plants in plastic bags with some aquarium water and oxygen. Alternatively, plants can be placed in buckets with their roots submerged in aquarium water. Cover the bucket with a moist towel to ensure they don’t dry out during the trip. Your tank’s filter media should be kept wet throughout the move as well. The nitrifying bacteria used in your tank’s cycle will perish if they dry out.

6. Drive Slowly

Drive slowly and carefully, avoiding speed bumps whenever possible. If you plan to stop for the night, do not leave your fish in your car unattended. Instead, bring them in with you where you will stay for the night. Never leave fish (or any pets) in an unattended locked car during the day; they may die from heat stress. Try to keep your car warm, a temperature of around 25–28°C (77–82.4°F) is recommended. If this is not possible, try warming your betta’s container with a warm towel or a sweater.

7. When You Arrive

Setting up your aquarium quickly once you arrive at your destination is crucial. To do so, work in reverse by adding in the filter media, substrate, and plants first. Next, place any salvaged aquarium water you brought along. Fill up the aquarium with fresh de-chlorinated water as needed, and install any other appliances (such as your aquarium light & heater ). Turn everything back on and ensure they are working properly.

Ensure you check the parameters of the new water source you’re going to use for your fish. If they are vastly different from the parameters of your previous water source, you should acclimate your fish to the aquarium very carefully and slowly.

8. Reacclimate Your Fish

After a long trip, it is important to reacclimate your fish to their aquarium for about 60–120 minutes. This is to avoid giving them a shock when they first arrive in potentially new waters.

9. Monitor Your Fish

It is best to not feed your fish for about a day after arriving (they may likely be too stressed to eat anyway). Keep a close eye on them, and monitor your water parameters periodically, especially during the first week after a relocation.

10. Seek Professional Advice

If you feel that your fish aren’t adjusting well after the move or seem to be taking a turn for the worse, you should promptly contact your veterinarian or a fisheries expert for advice.

Though somewhat cumbersome, transporting fish is sometimes a necessity. The steps we’ve discussed in this article should go a long way in ensuring that transporting your betta remains as stress-free as possible for them. Remember to always follow the lead of a professional whenever in doubt about how to transport your fish .

Related Read: How to Transfer a Betta Fish from Cup to Tank

Featured Image Credit: URAIWONS, Shutterstock

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On the Move: Essential Tips for Traveling with Your Betta Fish

Are you planning a trip and wondering how to safely travel with your Betta fish? Traveling with a Betta fish might seem daunting, but with the right preparation and care, it can be a smooth journey for both you and your aquatic friend. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll share essential tips and insights to help you navigate the challenges of traveling with a Betta fish. So, let’s dive in and set the course for a successful journey!

Preparing for the Journey: What You Need

Before you hit the road, it’s crucial to gather all the necessary supplies to keep your Betta fish comfortable and safe during the trip.

Travel Tank

A small, sturdy travel tank is essential for transporting your Betta fish. It should be secure, well-ventilated, and large enough for your Betta fish to move around comfortably.

Pro Tip: Consider a travel tank with a built-in filter and heater to maintain optimal water conditions during the journey.

Food and Water Supplies

Pack enough food for your Betta fish for the duration of your trip. Also, bring a supply of dechlorinated water or a water conditioner to prepare tap water for your Betta fish.

Emergency Kit

An emergency kit can be a lifesaver during unexpected situations. This should include a net, spare heater, and basic medications for common Betta fish diseases.

On the Road: Keeping Your Betta Fish Safe and Comfortable

Traveling can be stressful for Betta fish, but there are ways to make the journey more comfortable for your aquatic companion.

Maintaining Water Quality

During travel, it’s crucial to maintain the water quality in your Betta fish’s travel tank. Regularly check the water temperature and use a portable heater if necessary.

Little Known Fact: Did you know that sudden changes in water temperature can stress your Betta fish? Aim to keep the water temperature stable, ideally between 76 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit (24-28 degrees Celsius).

Feeding Your Betta Fish

Betta fish can go for a few days without food, so it’s usually best to avoid feeding your Betta fish during short trips to prevent water pollution. For longer journeys, feed your Betta fish sparingly.

Handling Stress

Travel can be stressful for Betta fish. Keep the travel tank in a quiet, secure spot in your vehicle and cover it with a towel to reduce stress.

Arriving at Your Destination: Helping Your Betta Fish Settle In

Once you’ve reached your destination, it’s important to help your Betta fish adjust to its new surroundings.

Acclimatizing Your Betta Fish

Just like when you first brought your Betta fish home, it’s important to acclimate your Betta fish to the new water parameters gradually.

Warning: Never rush the acclimatization process. Sudden changes in water parameters can cause shock, which can be harmful or even fatal to your Betta fish.

Monitoring Your Betta Fish

Keep a close eye on your Betta fish for the first few days after travel. Look out for signs of stress or illness, such as loss of appetite, lethargy, or unusual behavior.

In conclusion, traveling with a Betta fish requires careful planning and preparation, but with the right approach, it can be a successful journey. Remember, the well-being of your Betta fish should always be your top priority. By following these tips, you can ensure that your Betta fish remains healthy and happy, no matter where your travels take you.

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Rules for transporting betta fish on planes and trains.

Are you a betta fish enthusiast planning a trip? Whether you’re traveling by plane or train, taking your betta fish along requires attention to specific rules and guidelines. The unique nature of betta fish necessitates special considerations to ensure their safety and well-being throughout the journey. In this article, we will explore the essential rules for transporting betta fish on planes and trains, providing you with valuable insight for a stress-free and safe travel experience.

Choosing the Right Container

Securing proper documentation, understanding tsa regulations, safety measures for cabin transport, temperature regulation tips, handling plumbing needs, ensuring proper monitoring, emergency preparedness, monitoring stress levels, ensuring adequate nutrition, environmental regulation compliance, animal welfare and ethics, preparing for travel.

Before you set out on your adventure with your finned friend, getting ready is crucial. Choosing the right container is the first step—it must be secure and comfortable for your fish. Then, securing proper documentation is just as important; some carriers and authorities demand specific paperwork for pets. Proper prep will make the next steps a breeze, ensuring a pleasant trip for both you and your betta.

When you’re planning to travel with your betta buddy, the first step is to pick the perfect container. It should be sturdy , leak-proof , and clear , allowing airline or train staff to see inside without opening it. This isn’t just for their safety, but for yours too. Size is also crucial – it should be spacious enough for your fish to move around but small enough to comply with transportation regulations.

Also, consider the material of the container. Plastic is lightweight and less likely to break, making it a good choice. Add some familiar items from their tank, like a plant or a hideaway, to make them feel secure. Remember, comfort is key for a stress-free adventure for your finned friend!

Before setting off on your journey with your betta buddy, it’s crucial to get all the necessary papers in order. Carrying the right documents is a must , not just for compliance with airline or train line regulations but for the wellbeing of your fish. You’ll typically need a health certificate from a vet confirming that your betta is fit for travel. This certificate is like a passport for pets, assuring everyone that your companion is healthy and disease-free.

Moreover, if your travel crosses international borders, you might need to secure additional permits or declare your betta fish at customs. It’s a good idea to reach out to the embassy or animal control authorities of your destination to get the scoop on specific entry requirements. Remember, staying informed and prepared will not just smooth out your journey but also protect the little guy’s health and safety.

Guidelines for Air Travel

Taking to the skies with your finned friend calls for a bit of homework. Not only do you need to understand the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) guidelines, but also the specific airline’s pet policy to ensure a smooth journey. We’ll navigate the dos and don’ts so your aquatic pal can soar above the clouds safely and snugly by your side.

When you’re planning to fly with your finned friend, it’s crucial to know what the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has to say about it. The TSA sets the standards for what’s allowed through security, and this includes specific rules for bringing pets, like your betta fish. They require that live fish be inspected by a TSA officer and that they travel in a clear, transparent, spill-proof container. Betta fish are allowed through check-points, but it’s always wise to check with the airline ahead of time since rules can vary.

Remember, while the TSA handles the security side of things, it’s up to the airline to decide how your betta fish will travel on the plane—whether in the cabin or in the cargo hold. To ensure a smooth boarding process, bring a copy of the airline’s pet policy. This shows that you’re aware of the rules and are ready to follow them. Being prepared and informed can go a long way toward making the skies friendlier for both you and your aquatic companion.

When flying with your finned friend, it’s crucial to pay extra attention to their safety in the aircraft cabin. Airlines often have their own set of policies, so reach out to the airline in advance to learn about their specific requirements. A good practice is to use a sturdy, leak-proof container that fits comfortably under the seat in front of you—ensuring your betta’s home doesn’t slide around during the flight.

Apart from securing a container, consider the cabin environment. The pressure and temperature changes can be tough on your betta, so ensure the container is well-insulated and not fully sealed—*your fish needs air, just like you do!* Have a plan for air emergencies; a hand-held battery-operated air pump can be a lifesaver if cabin pressure drops. Always remember, keeping your betta’s stress to a minimum is the top priority during the flight.

Tips for Train Travel

Traveling by train with your finned friend might seem daunting, but with the right preparation, it can be smooth sailing—or, should we say, smooth railing! This part of the journey requires some unique considerations, especially around maintaining a stable environment for your betta fish amid the hustle and bustle. Keep reading for essential advice on temperature control and managing your fish’s needs, ensuring you both enjoy the ride.

Keeping your betta buddy comfy temperature-wise is super important when you’re on the move. Betta fish can be quite picky about their water temperature; they like it warm, ideally between 76 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot or too cold, they can get stressed or sick, and no one wants that.

So, when you’re planning to hit the rails, think about packing a small, insulated container to help maintain a stable temperature. It can act like a mini cooler but for warmth. If you have access to a power source, a portable heater can be your best bet. Just make sure it’s one that’s safe for travel and specifically designed for small tanks or containers. And remember, avoid placing your fish directly under the sun or in drafty spots, as this can cause rapid temperature changes that could harm your little travel buddy.

When you’re taking your betta fish on a train, managing the water environment is key. One crucial aspect is dealing with the water changes and waste that naturally occur in a fish’s container. You should always ensure there’s a way to refresh the water without causing a mess or stress to the fish.

For starters, bring along bottled water that’s been dechlorinated and matches the temperature of the water your betta fish is used to. This will minimize the shock to the fish during water changes. Think about a portable, battery-operated air pump to keep the water oxygenated, and have a plan for discreetly disposing of the old water. Remember, maintaining the water quality not only keeps your betta happy but it’s also courteous to other passengers.

Security and Safety Measures

Traveling with your aquatic pal can be nerve-wracking, but with the appropriate security and safety measures in place, it can be a breeze. Keeping a close watch on your betta’s environment and being ready for any unexpected situations will shield them from harm. It’s all about planning ahead—ensuring that your betta fish’s voyage is as smooth and stress-free as yours. Let’s dive into how you can keep your finned friend safe during your travels.

When you’re about to embark on a journey with your betta buddy, keeping a close eye on their environment is crucial. Monitoring your fish closely during travel ensures that any signs of distress are detected early, reducing the likelihood of serious health issues. It’s like being a detective, except your case is about keeping a fish happy!

Don’t forget, temperatures can change quickly, especially in transit. A good practice is to check the water temperature regularly. If the temperature gets too high or low, it could cause your little friend serious discomfort or health problems. By staying vigilant, you’ll give your betta the best chance at a comfortable trip.

When you’re planning to bring your betta fish along for a train or plane ride, thinking ahead about possible emergencies is key. In case something unexpected happens, it’s crucial to have a plan. First-aid kits designed for fish can be a lifesaver, including items like fish-friendly water conditioner and medicated food. Additionally, having contacts for veterinarians or pet hospitals at your destination could be the difference between a minor hiccup and a serious issue for your fish.

Beyond the immediate first-aid measures, you should also be prepped for potential travel delays. This might mean packing extra food and making sure you have access to clean, dechlorinated water for your betta. Water quality is vital, so canisters of prepared water that match the fish’s regular conditions are a smart addition to your travel kit. Remember, being ready isn’t just about avoiding trouble; it’s about ensuring your betta fish stays happy and healthy, no matter what.

Health and Well-being Check

Embarking on a journey with your finned friend means ensuring their health is top-notch before, during, and after travel. Monitoring stress levels and ensuring adequate nutrition are key to maintaining your betta’s vibrant colors and energetic disposition. So let’s dive into how you can keep a close eye on your betta’s well-being, making sure they’re just as ready for the adventure as you are.

Keeping an eye on your betta fish’s stress levels during travel is super important. These colorful little swimmers can get anxious when their environment changes. Look for signs like faded colors, rapid gill movement, or a lack of appetite. These are all hints that your betta might be feeling the pressure of the journey.

To help reduce stress, try to make their travel home as comfy as possible. Darkening their container can help mimic the darkness of night, which is soothing for them. Also, making gradual adjustments to their environment before the trip can help them get used to the change. Remember, a calm betta means a calm trip!

Nutrition is vital for your betta fish’s health, especially during travel. Before setting off, it’s essential to know how long your betta can go without food. Healthy adult bettas can typically go a few days without a meal, but this doesn’t mean you should skip feeding them entirely during your trip.

Pre-travel , feed your betta a normal amount to ensure it has enough energy for the journey. Opt for high-quality pellets, which are less likely to foul the water. Avoid overfeeding as it can pollute the water and cause health issues, especially in a confined travel container.

Try to maintain feeding consistency during your travels. If it’s a short trip, your fish might be okay without food. However, for longer journeys, consider using a single portion of pre-measured food to prevent overfeeding. Remember, clear and clean water is crucial, so it’s often better to underfeed than overfeed.

Legal and Ethical Considerations

When embarking on a journey with your finned friend, it’s not just about packing a bag and heading out. Traveling with live animals like betta fish involves a layer of responsibility that extends beyond just their immediate care. You must be aware of and comply with environmental regulations specific to the areas you’re traveling through. Additionally, there’s a moral aspect to consider. Treating your pet with respect and kindness, ensuring its travel experience is as stress-free as possible, reflects a commitment to animal welfare. Let’s dive into what you need to know about the legal and ethical side of bringing your betta on board.

When moving your finned friends from one place to another, it’s essential to stay on the right side of environmental laws. Every country, and sometimes even specific states or regions within a country, have their own rules when it comes to transporting live animals. These regulations are there to protect the local ecosystem . When it comes to aquatic pets, these rules prevent the accidental release of non-native species that could cause harm to the environment.

Before you start packing your betta’s bags, make sure to do your homework. You’ll need to check out the guidelines provided by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service , or similar organizations in other countries. They have the scoop on what’s allowed and what’s not. Also, contact your airline or train line; they may have additional requirements. Import permits or health certificates could also be part of the mix, so leave no stone unturned. Your due diligence will make all the difference in ensuring a smooth trip for you and your betta.

Traveling with your aquatic pals isn’t just about following the letter of the law; it’s also about respecting their needs and ensuring their well-being. Animal welfare is a top priority when taking betta fish on a journey by air or rail. These creatures might be small, but they’re still deserving of humane treatment, including a stress-free environment and adequate space to move.

It’s not only about avoiding harm; ethical considerations also call for understanding the betta’s natural behavior and lifestyle. Bettas thrive in warm water and can be prone to stress if not handled gently. Remember, transporting them responsibly isn’t just the right thing to do; it reflects your compassion and respect for life in all its forms. With every decision, from the size of the container to the temperature of the water, always put the welfare of your betta first.

Adhering to the outlined rules and guidelines will contribute to a smooth and worry-free transportation experience for your betta fish. By prioritizing their safety and well-being, you can enjoy your trip while ensuring your beloved aquatic companions remain comfortable and secure throughout the journey. So, let’s embark on your next adventure with your betta fish, with confidence and diligence in abiding by the rules for transporting them on planes and trains.

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How to Safely Transport a Betta Fish: Tips for Stress-Free Travel

Key Takeaways

Use a clean, chemical-free plastic container with a lid for secure and comfortable betta transport.
Maintain water quality and temperature with heating pads and regular checks to ensure a stress-free journey.
Minimize stress by cushioning the container, avoiding feeding before the trip, and using a dark, secure travel tank.
In the vehicle, keep the betta’s container cool, stable, and away from direct sunlight to ensure its safety.

How to Safely Transport a Betta Fish?

To safely transport a Betta fish, place it in a securely sealed container filled with some of its original tank water, ensuring stable temperature and minimal stress during transit.

For the Betta’s journey, keep the water at the right temperature. I use a strong plastic bag with a tight lid to prevent leaks and give the fish space.

Before moving, I slowly adjust my Betta to the transport water’s temperature. This means carefully changing the water bit by bit. I keep an eye on the temperature with a thermometer, making changes to keep it steady.

This careful planning ensures my Betta’s move is smooth and without stress.

Want to know more about Betta Fish? Our article, Betta fish coming up for air , has all the details.

Preparing Your Betta Fish for Transportation

I’ve found that the key to successfully moving a betta fish hinges on two crucial aspects:

choosing the right container and ensuring the water’s quality and temperature remain optimal.

Selecting a container that’s both secure and comfortable for your fish minimizes stress and promotes a healthier transition.

Keeping the water conditions stable during the move protects your betta from harmful fluctuations, ensuring a smooth journey to its new home.

Selecting the Proper Container for Transit

When preparing to transport a betta fish, selecting the right container is crucial for ensuring the fish’s safety and comfort during the journey. It’s not just about grabbing any plastic container; it’s about choosing one that’s suitable for your betta. Here’s what I’ve learned:

Plastic container or Tupperware : These are ideal as they’re lightweight and durable. Ensure they’re clean and free from any chemicals.
Lid : A lid is necessary, but it must allow air exchange. Small holes can be made to facilitate this.
Cushion : Cushion the bag or container to minimize stress from jostling.
Familiar water : Use water from the betta’s current tank to reduce stress.
Treated water : Ensure any new water is treated to remove chloramines and chlorine.

Maintaining Water Quality and Temperature During the Move

Keeping your betta fish’s water at the right quality and temperature during transportation is crucial for its health and stress levels. When I transport my betta fish, ensuring water quality means regularly checking for ammonia levels and maintaining balanced water parameters. This requires me to check water regularly and adjust as necessary.

To keep the temperature constant, especially during colder months, I use heating pads around the transport container. This ensures a constant temperature, mimicking their natural habitat and minimizing stress.

Additionally, I find adding aquarium salt in small doses helpful in maintaining good water quality, as it aids in reducing stress and preventing diseases. It’s a delicate balance, but by focusing on these aspects, I can safely transport my betta fish with minimal stress.

The Journey – Ensuring Your Betta Fish’s Comfort and Security

@ Midjourney AI Image Prompt: /imagine prompt:Illustrate a serene betta fish inside a spacious, water-filled, transparent portable container with secure lid, surrounded by soft, cushioning materials inside a vehicle, sunlight filtering through, highlighting the fish’s vibrant colors and calm surroundings. –v 6 –ar 16:9

As we embark on the journey of transporting a Betta fish, it’s crucial to minimize stress factors inherent in travel environments. I’ll guide you through considering the timeframe for both short and long-distance moves, emphasizing the importance of planning.

Additionally, I’ll share insights on the best vehicle settings and placement to ensure your Betta’s safety and comfort throughout the trip.

Minimizing Stress Factors in Travel Environments

Ensuring your betta fish’s comfort and security during travel involves carefully managing stress factors in the environment. When I’m transporting a betta, I’ve learned that minimizing stress factors is key to keeping your bettas healthy and reducing the likelihood that the journey will stress your fish.

Here are my top strategies:

Use a dark, secure travel tank to minimize visual stress.
Keep water temperature stable to prevent shock.
Avoid feeding right before short trips to reduce waste.
Use a battery-operated air pump for oxygen in longer transports.
Gradually reintroduce your betta to its home tank to avoid shock.

Timeframe Considerations for Short and Long-Distance Moves

After addressing how to minimize stress factors, it’s crucial to consider the timeframe for both short and long-distance moves when transporting your betta fish to ensure their comfort and security throughout the journey.

Transporting a betta fish may seem daunting, but with careful planning and consideration for their needs, you can make sure they’re comfortable and safe.

Vehicle Settings and Placement for Optimal Betta Safety

During the journey, it’s critical to adjust your vehicle’s settings and carefully choose where to place your betta fish to maximize their safety and comfort. As someone who’s passionate about the well-being of these beautiful creatures, I’ve gathered key insights to ensure a smooth transport.

Keep the car cool and stable to prevent shocking the betta fish with sudden temperature changes.
Secure the betta’s container with a lid or cover to prevent water from spilling.
Place the container in a stable spot where it won’t tip over or slide.
Avoid direct sunlight on the aquarium to maintain a consistent water temperature.
Prepare the tank with water from their old tank to ease the transition into new water.

Destination Arrival: Acclimating Your Betta Fish to New Surroundings

@ Midjourney AI Image Prompt: /imagine prompt:Create an illustration showing a person gently pouring water from a betta fish bag into a beautifully decorated aquarium, with a focus on the soothing and careful transition of the fish into its new environment. –v 6 –ar 16:9

Upon arrival, I understand the importance of gently acclimating my betta fish to its new environment to prevent stress.

I’ll introduce you to the steps necessary for a gradual adjustment, ensuring the water parameters match and the transition is seamless.

Monitoring my betta’s behavior post-relocation is crucial for spotting any signs of distress early on.

Steps for Gradual Acclimation Post-Transport

Once you’ve arrived at your destination, it’s crucial to carefully acclimate your Betta fish to its new environment to ensure its health and well-being.

Float the transport bag in the betta tank for about 15 minutes to equalize temperature differences.
Add a small amount of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes for the next 30 minutes to adjust the betta to the aquarium water chemistry.
Use aged tap water or conditioned water that matches the tank’s temperature for water changes to reduce shock.
Incorporate filter media from an established tank to help maintain a stable environment necessary for your betta.
Change water regularly, but gradually, to avoid drastic shifts in water conditions, ensuring your betta needs a stable and clean environment to thrive in.

Monitoring Your Betta Fish After Relocation

After successfully acclimating your Betta fish to its new tank, it’s crucial to regularly monitor its behavior and health for any signs of stress or illness.

Observing how bettas adapt in their betta aquarium post-relocation is essential. When you put the fish into the bettas tank, watch for unusual swimming patterns or a lack of appetite. It’s a good practice to feed your fish carefully, ensuring not to overfeed and pollute the water.

If you’ve found the best way to move your fish tank to a new house, maintaining optimal water conditions in the new environment is critical. Monitoring your betta fish after relocation helps in adjusting them better, ensuring they thrive in their new surroundings. Remember, a happy betta is active and colorful, a sign they’re settling well.

Troubleshooting Common Issues During Betta Fish Transport

@ Midjourney AI Image Prompt: /imagine prompt:Illustrate a split-view aquarium with one side showing a stressed Betta fish in cloudy water, and the other side a content Betta in clear water, with air bubbles and a thermometer indicating ideal temperature. –v 6 –ar 16:9

During the transport of a betta fish, I’ve found it crucial to monitor and address water quality fluctuations, ensuring the conditions remain stable and safe for my aquatic friend.

In cases where the unexpected happens, such as sudden health issues, I’ve learned the importance of having emergency measures ready to implement without delay.

This approach has helped me mitigate risks and ensure the well-being of my betta during transport.

Addressing Water Quality Fluctuations on the Go

Ensuring stable water quality while transporting your Betta fish is crucial to prevent stress and health issues. When moving to a new tank, sudden changes in environment can affect your fish’s well-being. Here’s how I manage water quality fluctuations during transport:

Acclimate your Betta : Gradually introduce your fish to the new water conditions to avoid shock.
Use aquarium salt : A small amount can help reduce stress and control minor water quality issues.
Clean substrate : Before transport, ensure the substrate is free from fish waste to prevent ammonia spikes.
Regular water checks : Monitor the water every two weeks for quality fluctuations, adjusting as necessary.
Condition the water : Treat tap water to remove harmful chemicals and match the fish need for a stable environment.

These steps have been essential in ensuring my Betta’s health on the go.

Emergency Measures for Unforeseen Betta Health Concerns

Despite our best efforts to manage water quality and prepare for transport, unexpected health issues can arise with Betta fish, necessitating swift and knowledgeable intervention.

When unforeseen betta health concerns surface during transport, it’s crucial to take emergency measures promptly. First, I ensure my betta fish’s tank maintains optimal temperature and cleanliness, even on the move. If I spot any signs of distress, I’m prepared with a first-aid kit specific for betta fish’s needs, including water conditioners and treatments for common ailments.

Safely getting your betta fish to its destination may sometimes require immediate adjustments to their environment or even a temporary transfer to a prepared secondary tank. Acting quickly and calmly ensures these beautiful creatures remain healthy throughout their journey.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can betta fish recognize their owners and how might this affect their transportation experience.

I’ve learned that betta fish can recognize their owners, mainly by sight. This awareness could make them more comfortable during transport if they see familiar faces, reducing stress and making the journey smoother for them.

How Does the Time of Year or Outside Temperature Impact the Best Practices for Transporting a Betta Fish?

I’ve learned that the time of year greatly affects how I transport my betta. In colder months, I ensure they’re kept warm, while in summer, I’m careful to avoid overheating by using insulated containers.

What Are the Legal Considerations or Restrictions When Transporting Betta Fish Across State or International Borders?

I’ve researched that when moving betta fish across borders, it’s crucial to know the legalities. You’ll need permits and health certificates, as regulations vary by location, ensuring their safety and adhering to laws.

How Can One Manage the Transport of Multiple Betta Fish Simultaneously, Especially Considering Their Territorial Nature?

I’ve found using separate, small containers for each betta works best to manage their aggression during transport. It’s vital to ensure they’re well-oxygenated, at a stable temperature, and not exposed to direct sunlight.

Are There Any Specific Dietary Considerations or Adjustments That Should Be Made Before Transporting a Betta Fish to Minimize Stress or Health Issues?

I’ve learned it’s best to avoid feeding betta fish for 24-48 hours before transport to minimize waste and stress. Proper fasting reduces health risks, making their journey more comfortable and safer overall.

After carefully preparing and ensuring my betta’s comfort throughout the journey, I’ve found that the key to a stress-free transport lies in meticulous planning and patience.

Acclimating my betta to its new surroundings was crucial for a smooth transition. I tackled common issues like temperature fluctuations and stress by staying informed and prepared.

Remember, every betta’s needs can vary, so adaptability and attentiveness are essential. With these steps, I confidently transported my betta, guaranteeing its safety and happiness.

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How to TRAVEL with a BETTA.

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If the tank is cycled, you can keep the substrate wet, using old tank water and keep the filter wet with old tank water. That way, you won't kill your beneficial bacteria and have to cycle all over again. Very good info, Tian Tian!!

Someone here told me that when a neighbor of mine was moving her fishtank to a new house.

Hmm... Thanks for the traveling tips. I'm sure if I ever move in the future my girls will appreciate your instructions. ^_^

Thanks so much for this! Me and my fish go all over between school, home, and vacations! This is a great checklist and guideline! Much appreciated!

great post! thanks so much for sharing.

This was awesome advice. Now I know I dont have to give Pickle away when I move :3 I DO have a couple questions though, I dont have a heater for Pickles tank, and am currently using a lizard warmth lamp, hanging over his tank, and doing an okay job. Do I need one? And I dont think my parents will let me grab a container of aquarium salt, s will I need it too?

The aquarium salt isn't necessary but helps to prevent and treat diseases.

Okay, thank you Tian. Its cold here on the west coast, so I think Ill wrap him up and try to persuade my parents to turn on the heater during the time of the ferrie xD

yes im getting a bit anxious for jasper cause Christmas vacations are coming up. So terrific advise but im still a bit scared of what im gonna do with him.

Thanks so much for the info, I was dreading moving them over thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, but now I know how to do it!

Is this guideline still good for if you're moving like...REALLY far? I'm going to be moving from Maryland to Oregon, and I don't want to give up Nymeria and Atlas. I don't have anyone here that will take them or take care of them, so they have to come with me.

When Aether (SIP) was alive, he traveled from Mississippi to Colorado. He survived a couple days in a big soda bottle. He was a good boy.

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How To Travel With A Betta Fish The Right Way.

How to travel with a betta fish the right way.

As silly as the topic of this article sounds, there may come a time when you need to take your betta fish along with you on a trip farther than from point A to point B in your own home. Traveling with your bettas is not a nerve-racking situation. Actually, I lied. Of course nerves will be racked anytime you have to take your betta fish on a trip. Hopefully after reading this article, at least some of your nerves will be spared from racking.

As a prequel to this not-really-a-guide guide, pretty much everything suggested herein will be based on the assumption that your betta fish normally lives in a tank that is not cycled. The reason for this is that it’s a pretty safe bet that most people that own bettas don’t have them in cycled tanks, or know what cycling is in general. If you yourself do have your betta in a cycled aquarium , you can modify parts of the traveling process to meet those needs. That will have more to do with what you have to do once you make it back home after your travels.

Be it you are finally able to take that vacation you’ve been counting down the days for, or heading off to college and have to option to bring along your fishy friend, pet fish plus travel can make for a uniquely stressful situation. As long as you’ve done your pre-travel homework and ready to go the extra few steps to keep your betta fish healthy along the way, you should be able to provide a relatively low stress experience for your fish throughout the journey.

Because Siamese fighting fish are living, breathing creatures and not inanimate objects that can be relied on to do things like stay put wherever you left them, there are really no hard and fast rules here. You need to assess every situation for yourself to the best of your abilities. This guide on traveling with your betta is more of a base set of suggestions. If you personally know of a better way of getting a particular thing done, go for it. A lot of people really don’t know where to start though, and that is why this guide is here in the first place.

Betta Fish Trip Gear.

Ok, lets get right down into it. If your are planning any sort of trip by car, take a look at this list of betta approved necessities:

Small Plastic Container (Travel Fish Tank)
Pre-treated water
Aquarium Salt
Thermometer
Cloth and Paper Towels
Water Conditioner
Portable Aerator

To begin with, the small plastic container mentioned at the top of the list should be clear. That may seem like a no brainer, I just want to make sure that your poor betta fish has the option of seeing Vegas as you drive by…

See more information > How To Travel With A Betta Fish The Right Way

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How to Transport a Betta Fish (Stress-Free)

The betta fish is known to be an especially sensitive fish. They get easily stressed out during transport. If you know how to transport a betta fish the right way, it should not be stressful for you or your fish. The key is to be mindful of the length of the trip, the tank type, and water conditions.

Transport for Short Travels

There is no need for fancy technology when transporting your betta fish for a short while. If you are transporting one fish for only a couple of hours, plastic bags or zip lock bags will do. Make sure to use at least two plastic bags. Just to be safe, bring extra bags just in case the bags in use break.

You will need to open the bag and change the water every once in a while. When changing the water, pour out half of the water from the plastic bag and gently pour in clean water without agitating the betta. This process oxygenates the water for your fish.

A bigger plastic bag should suffice if you transport a couple or more. If there are a lot of them, you can group the fish and put them in separate bags or small Tupperware. The important thing is to never overstock. Overstocking in an aquarium stresses the fish, even more so in travel.

Transport for Long Travels

So you will have to transport your Betta fish for a couple of days. Plastic bags won’t do the trick this time. You need Tupperware or a clear plastic container, or a low bucket. Avoid tall containers as they can easily tip over and cause a mess.

For travels that will take more than two days, it is best for your fish to be transported in a travel tank. Travel tanks come with clasps that secure the lids. It also has holes to supply air. You can add a real aquatic plant to the temporary tank if you want. Take a plant or two from the home tank. Remember, though, not to overcrowd the tank.

Whatever tank you choose, always remember to change the water regularly. Ideally, you want to change the water every hour. And give ample swimming space to the fish.

Water Conditions When Transport Betta Fish

When preparing the water for transport, try to imitate the water conditions from the fish’s home tank. Familiar water conditions are essential not to shock your Betta fish. There would be fewer chances of health-failing stress.

You can use half tank water and half clean water for transport. When you change the water, pour out only half of the water and replace it with clean water. This way, the water stays familiar and void of chances to breed bacteria.

Other Reminders to transporting betta fish

There are other things to consider when transporting a Betta fish. Knowing how to transport a betta fish stress-free also includes:

1. Smooth Transport

Rough transport is not only difficult for humans but especially for fish. The water sways and tosses; this can significantly stress your fish as its swimming is disrupted. You can minimize this by cushioning the tank it’s in. Use foam from old clothes. The cushion can also help maintain the water temperature.

2. Temperature

Speaking of temperature, make sure to keep the water temperature warm. Bettas are tropical fish. You have to maintain the water at 77°F – 84°F. Use heating pads if you have to. Place the heating pads between the container and the foam or cloths you will use as cushions.

3. Feed or Fasting

Another thing to remember is the feeding time. Feed your Betta fish while it is in its home tank before transport. Feed it an hour before because it will have to fast during transport. Feeding your Betta fish while in transport increases the chance of ammonia buildup.

4. Post Transport

Congratulations! The transport was successful. But it does not end here. The job is done when it’s back in its home tank. You want the water to be new but the parameters to be the same as before the transport.

Pre-condition the water and add aquarium salt. Wait for the salt to dissolve into the water before transferring your Betta fish. Undissolved aquarium water burns the Betta fish, and no one wants that.

Acclimate the Betta to the new water by floating its bag or container in the new tank for about 15-30 minutes to equalize temperatures. Then, gradually introduce small amounts of the new tank water into the bag or container over another 15-30 minutes. Once acclimated, gently release the Betta into its new home.

Source: ItsAnnaLouise

Transporting a betta fish may seem tedious, but it does not have to be stressful. Just choose the right tank, use familiar water and make the transport smooth. Suppose you know how to transport a betta fish properly; the fewer chances of agitating the fish. And the less disturbed the fish, the fewer chances of falling sick.

Be as sensitive as your Betta fish when transporting it. No discomfort is minor. You want your fish to feel relaxed and comfortable. These pointers should guide you for your subsequent transport. Learn more other post on National Park Aquarium .

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KEVIN MILLS

-- Founder --

I'm Kevin Mills, the founder of Nationalparkaquarium.org, where I share my deep passion for aquariums and aquatic life. With over 20 years of experience in fishkeeping, covering everything from tending to saltwater and freshwater tanks.

KATHLEEN WOOD

-- Interrogator --

Kathleen Wood, a seasoned marine biologist, possesses a wealth of knowledge and experience in her field. Her research on tropical fish biodiversity spans over three decades, and she has contributed numerous scientific papers on aquatic life.

National Park Aquarium share free knowledge to help keep your aquarium clean and your fish healthy.

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How to Transport a Betta Fish in a Car? Step-by-Step!

-- By Carol

If you’re moving houses and need to transport betta fish, you must know what the process entails.

Moving betta fish can be a simple process. However, you must take specific measures to ensure they’re comfortable for the ride.

You will need to collect the necessary equipment, prepare your fish, and ensure all aspects go smoothly.

This guide on how to transport a betta fish in a car help keep your fish safe and comfortable.

Table of Contents

Consider Certain Important Factors for Transportation

The specifics about a trip can impact the arrangements you make for your betta fish.

Thus, keep the following factors in mind.

Gear Needed for the Transportation Process

Gather the following gear for the transportation process.

A half-gallon clear plastic container or zip-lock baggie
A fish net and a small cup
Soft towels and paper towels
Water appropriate for betta fish (including aquarium salt and water conditioner)
A thermometer to ensure the tank water temperature is safe for betta fish

The Length of the Trip

Even a trip that’s as short as half an hour will need proper preparation.

Short trips don’t require specialized tanks, making it easier and more affordable to transport betta fish.

Week-long trips across cross-country require a specific type of tank.

It ensures betta fish have a safe and healthy environment for the duration of the trip.

The Type of Tank

The type of tank will affect your fish’s safety. You should avoid transporting betta fish in fully-equipped aquariums full of water.

Full aquariums are more likely to spill. The water can cause the fish to fall out , and it can stress your fish as well.

Moreover, glass aquariums pose a greater risk to your fish’s safety.

The consistent movement in a car can cause the glass to shatter. The force from moving water can also weaken the aquarium’s walls.

Use a Plastic Container

Your safest bet for your betta fish is to use a plastic container.

These won’t break easily, ensuring your fish are safe throughout the car ride.

In addition to that, you should only use a container that fills about half a gallon of water .

There are three options you can consider for the transportation process.

Plastic Baggie

A plastic zip-lock bag is a good option for short trips that are only an hour or two long.

Double-bag two half-gallon zip-lock bags to ensure that it’s secure and won’t puncture.

Next, place the bag in a rigid container with soft towels around the bag. This way, the fish won’t feel stressed with the car’s consistent movement.

Fish-Only Tupperware

You must make sure that you do not use Tupperware or a plastic container that has been used for other purposes.

Old plastic containers may have some traces of soap or food, which can be unsafe for betta fish.

A screw-on container can help prevent betta fish from getting out. Make sure to make some holes in the lid to allow fresh air to enter.

Travel Tank

A travel tank is best for long trips that stretch on for days. These tanks are built for transportation.

Thus, they have a lid with air holes in them for fresh air.

Like with the other transportation containers, it’s best to use a half-gallon container.

Place a live plant in the aquarium for long trips so that your betta fish can find shelter near it.

This helps with reducing your betta fish’s stress during the trip.

With all containers, make sure not to put other fish and decorative materials in the transportation container.

Other objects can injure or crush your fish due to the movement in the vehicle.

Stop after every hour and inspect the container and your fish too.

Use Separate Containers for Each Betta Fish

Putting more than one betta fish in a container can put them in danger.

Therefore, use a separate container for each betta to ensure their safety.

However, you can consider installing a separator in one tank.

Make sure that it is secure because it can crush betta fish if it moves out of place.

How to Prepare Your Betta Fish for the Trip

It’s best to prepare your betta fish for transportation for the traveling day itself.

Therefore, keep the following things ready.

Prepare the Container

You will need to prepare the container to make it safe for your betta fish. Clean the unused plastic traveling container thoroughly.

Use tap water to clean the container if it meets the parameters for betta fish.

Transfer a quarter gallon of clean tap water to the container.

Add Water Conditioner to the Container

Next, add some water conditioner that’s safe for betta fish into the container.

The water conditioner neutralizes the water, removing ammonia and other poisonous materials from the water.

You can get the best results by letting the conditioned water for the night. However, leaving it for about a half-hour can work too.

Alternatively, you can use Betta water which is easily available in pet stores and online. It is pre-conditioned and is perfect for a betta. Also, don’t change your betta water environment suddenly. Use some of the tank water and mix it with new water. This will make sure Betta doesn’t get shocked by the difference in water quality.

Add Aquarium Salt to the Container

Add a teaspoon of aquarium salt to the container for every gallon of water.

Therefore, add a quarter teaspoon of aquarium salt to a quarter gallon of water.

Aquarium salt can help destress betta fish, making the trip more comfortable for them.

You should also mix the conditioner in the water thoroughly before placing your fish in the container.

Prepare the Water

Betta fish owners are well aware of the specific water requirements these creatures need.

Therefore, you must ensure that the water present has minerals present and is at the appropriate temperature.

Keep the Traveling Water Parameters the Same

Keep the parameters of the traveling water as close as to the aquarium water.

You can achieve that by changing the water in the aquarium partially one or two days before traveling.

This way, the water will be clean but familiar for your betta fish. Completely new water can shock and stress your betta fish, which can result in severe injury.

After that, you must transfer about half a gallon of the aquarium water into the traveling container.

As a result, the traveling container water will be free of ammonia yet still familiar to your fish.

Safely Transporting Your Betta Fish in a Car

On the day of transporting your betta fish in a car, you must make the transition as smooth as possible.

As a result, you’ll reduce the chances of stressing and possibly injuring your betta fish.

Transfer the Betta Fish Into the Container

Check the temperature of the aquarium water and the conditioned tap water in the container.

Use the appropriate thermometer for measuring the temperature.

Place a heater in the container if the temperature is too low. Before transferring the fish, remove the heater. Next, put the water from both sources into the container.

Capture the Betta Fish with the FishNet

Use the fish net and small cup to capture your betta fish from the aquarium. Once the fish is in the net, place it in the cup.

After that, hold the cup in the container and wait for your fish to move into the new container.

Do not force your fish out because the new environment can stress your fish.

The gradual change from one environment to the other will allow it to adjust the temperature and parameters.

Secure the Betta Fish in the Car

You must try and reduce your traveling container from moving around in that car. You can use your car’s seatbelts to keep the container in place.

If you do want to keep it on the seat, the car’s floor is a secure option too.

Make sure not to place the container in a part of the car that gets too hot. At the same time, you must not keep your betta fish near the AC vents.

You must aim to keep the temperature as consistent as possible.

You can manage that by placing the betta fish container in another one, with soft towels around it.

Also, keep the AC temperature between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit in the car.

Keep the fan speed low so that the temperature doesn’t change quickly.

Transfer Your Fish to the Aquarium After Arrival

After you arrive, you can transfer your betta fish to your cleaned aquarium.

You can clean your aquarium before traveling or after. After that, add pre-treated water to the aquarium.

Make sure that the aquarium’s water has similar parameters to the water in the traveling container.

Once the aquarium is set up, you can transfer your betta fish the same way using the fishnet and cup.

As before, do not force your betta fish in the new environment.

Last Few Words

When transporting fish in a car, make sure to keep the transition as smooth and gradual as possible.

Betta fish get easily stressed, and that can put them in grave danger if you’re not careful.

Also, keep aquarium accessories securely so that they do not get damaged.

How to Transport a Betta Fish?

Step 1: Choose the Right “Tank Type”

Choosing the type of tank you will use depends on the length of the trip. The longer the trip, the more secure the tank type should be.

Tupperware for Long Trips

For example, if you’re going on a long multi-day trip, the fish will need a plastic container such as Tupperware that can hold at least half a gallon. A Tupperware is a good option because it is sturdy enough that it won’t have leaks after about a day or more on the road. It is also portable, which makes it perfect for long-distance travel.

Plastic Baggies for Short Trips

If you’re only going for a short trip that will take just a few hours, a plastic baggie might be the preferable option. You’d have to double the baggie, and they have to be ziplock, just to be safe. You might also need to put the baggies in a rigid container, especially if the road is bumpy.

But keep in mind that you have to open the container now and then to oxygenate the water. And if possible, try replacing the water every few hours. You can do this by taking out half of the container’s water and gently pouring in fresh water. Be very careful not to agitate the fish while doing this. You have to replace the water because the ammonia levels in the container will spike every twenty-four hours, which is terrible for the fish.

Step 2: Make the Water Familiar to the Betta Fish

To prevent your betta from stressing over the new, unfamiliar environment, make the new environment as familiar as possible. You can do this by ensuring that the water in the trip container is similar to the water in the betta’s tank at home. I suggest making partial water changes a couple of days before and the day before the trip.

You can use the partial tank water and mix it with fresh, clean water in the trip container. This way, the fish will not sense many changes in its environment. If you are going on a long trip, use the extra partial water from the two sets of changes you did before the trip.

The two advantages of this trick are:

The water is still familiar to the fish
The water is relatively clean and void of toxic substances like ammonia

The travel container’s water content should be half tank water and half fresh, clean water. The fresh and clean water should be pre-conditioned for betta residents. Use the same process you usually do when putting water in the betta tank at home. If you have to, use a betta-approved water conditioner.

Additionally, you may want to add a teaspoon of aquarium salt for every gallon of water for good measure.

Step 3: Make the Trip Smooth

A bumpy road will stress your poor betta to death, either literally or metaphorically. Try imagining yourself in a house that constantly shakes all around you for a reasonable amount of time. It’s scary and stressful. You can prevent your fish from experiencing the same predicament with a few tips and tricks.

How to Make the Trip Smooth

If possible, choose the smoothest roads possible. The lesser the bumps on the roads are, the less stressful it will be for the betta.

One tip you can use is to make use of the seatbelt. It may be challenging, and you may have to finagle your way around it, but a seatbelt can help keep the container securely in place.

Another trick you can do is place the container on the vehicle’s floor instead of on the seat. The car’s floor bumps around significantly less than the seats, which may be better. Just be sure that the air conditioning system is not blasting cold air on the container. You don’t want your fish getting uncomfortably cold.

Lastly, use towels or old shirts as a cushioning device for the container. You can use these items to keep the container as snug as possible. Additionally, old shirts or towels can help regulate the container’s temperature. It’s a big win!

Step 4: Choose – To Feed or Not to Feed?

It is best to transport a betta fish while it is fasting, but you’ve got to feed it sooner rather than later. You have to limit its food intake so that you can limit the waste in its trip-worthy tank. You have to make your fish fast at least one day a week to prevent it from bloating and constipation. If the trip is just a day-long, you can just skip the feeding altogether and make your betta fish fast.

However, betta fish are creatures of habit; they tend to get stressed when their scheduled feedings don’t happen. If you have an already established feeding routine, it might be best to just stick to it.

Bettas are pretty versatile pets despite being sensitive. As long as you make the proper preparations and make its traveling environment as familiar as possible, the fish should do fine. In summary, here’s how to transport a betta fish: get the appropriate container based on the trip length. Rigid, plastic containers are preferable for long trips, and plastic baggies are sufficient for short trips.

The water conditions should closely resemble the water conditions in the betta’s tank at home. Bumpy roads may affect the fish negatively, so try to keep its container as snug as possible to avoid shaking. If you can travel on smooth routes, do so. Lastly, keep the feeding habit as regular as possible since bettas love routine.

Fish Keeping Academy

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Setting Up A Betta Tank (The Right Way!)

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Betta fish thrive in the right environment, especially one that is spacious with natural features and places to hide. But setting up a betta tank is not always as easy as it may seem.

There are several things to consider when setting up a betta tank for the first time, such as:

How to choose a betta tank.
Choosing a betta tank light .
Choosing a substrate for a betta tank.
Adding a heater and filter to your betta tank.
Adding water to your betta tank.
Choosing plants and ornaments.
And finally, add your betta to its newly set-up tank.

While learning how to set up a betta fish tank is not difficult, there are some things to keep in mind. Setting everything up correctly to start will speed up the entire process and make your first betta fish tank setup more successful.

This article will teach you, step-by-step, how to set up a betta tank, with some helpful tips to make your betta’s new environment feel like home.

Make sure to check out our Betta Fish Care Guide And Species Overview .

How To Set Up A Betta Fish Tank

I will list the steps that I use when setting up a new tank which is the same for most tanks, but there are a few differences. A betta tank is best set up using the following steps:

1. How To Choose A Betta Tank

The most important step in setting up your new betta tank is choosing the correct tank size. Betta fish are used to living in rice paddies and small, slow-moving streams, so you may think you can buy a small aquarium that doesn’t provide much space. The truth is that betta fish like plenty of space and room to move around.

A betta tank that is too small can dramatically affect your betta’s lifespan , as they may become stressed and suffer health issues in a tiny tank. Water parameters are also very difficult to maintain in smaller tanks.

You also need to decide if other fish will be joining your betta in the aquarium and, if so, what size of fish. Betta fish are not good with larger, more aggressive fish that can bully them or invade their space.

Bettas are also aggressive toward other members of their own species, hence the name Siamese Fighting Fish . If you are setting up a male and female betta tank, be aware that aggression may be a problem, so do some extra research to find the right type of tank mates.

Male bettas tend to be more aggressive than female bettas, as they defend their territory, food sources, and potential mating partners. Female bettas tend to be much more docile than male betta fish, so betta sorority tanks are a solution for more experienced aquarists.

Get A Tank With A Lid

I also recommend getting a tank with a lid as betta fish can jump quite high and may end up leaping over the rim of the tank, causing themselves an injury, or worse, they may not be found for several hours, causing them to dry up and die.

Not all betta fish jump, especially if they are settled and happy, and there are plenty of ways to reduce jumping behavior, but the best solution is to find a tank with a tight-fitting lid. Ensure the lid is high enough so your betta can still jump without hitting the top.

If your tank choice doesn’t have a lid, lower the water level a little, add plenty of plants or surface plants to restrict jumping, or consider attaching a makeshift perspex rim around the top of the tank.

Betta Tank Size

For a beginner, the ideal environment for your betta would be a 10 gallon tank. If you want some compatible tank mates and plants, choose a 20-gallon tank or larger.

The size of your betta’s tank largely depends on the number and type of other fish you are introducing. A general rule is to start with a 10 gallon tank and add 1 gallon for every inch of the expected length of a full-grown adult male’s body, although this is an absolute minimum size.

There are many all-in-one betta fish tanks for sale, often found online or at your local pet stores, but basic starter tanks are often very small.

The most common starter tank sizes are only 1 or 2 gallons. If you are just keeping a single betta fish, a small tank will probably do in the short term until you can find something bigger.

Very small tanks have potential issues, such as:

A rapid build-up of waste , so you need to carry out frequent water changes.
Diseases spread more quickly in smaller tanks putting your betta’s health at increased risk.
Water temperature is less stable in a smaller tank than in a larger tank, as it is a much smaller body of water.
Ammonia and Nitrate levels increase much quicker from uneaten food and fish waste and can be harder to keep within the correct parameters.

Larger tanks are more stable, and when issues do arise, they do so much more slowly without catching you out. Betta fish need room to move, preferring a longer, shallow aquarium over a tall narrow one.

The Fluval Spec series is quite a good option and can be found online at Amazon.com and at some other retailers.

Some recommendations are below:

BiOrb Classic 8 Gallon Led Aquarium

GloFish 5 Gallon Aquarium Kit

Coralife BioCube 32 Gallon Aquarium

Fluval Edge 12 Gallon Aquarium

Marina Led Beginner Aquarium Kit – 20 Gallon

Marina Led Beginner Aquarium - 20 Gallon

All the aquariums above are complete kits which are the best option for beginners to set up. They should provide all of the equipment required, such as internal filters, heaters, substrates, water conditioners, and test kits.

Make sure to clean your new tank before setting it up to reduce the risk of introducing unwanted bacteria.

Where To Put A Betta Tank

As with any freshwater or saltwater fish tank, it is always wise to position the tank in areas away from windows and direct sunlight. The heat from direct sunlight can cause the water temperature to rise through the day and drop drastically at night. Direct sunlight also encourages algae growth which is best avoided.

Betta fish also prefer environments with subdued lighting, so ensure you set up your tank with this in mind. Only place your tank close to a window if the sunlight is diffused or doesn’t directly hit the tank.

Avoid positioning your betta tank in draughty areas, especially if you don’t have a heater. Cold areas can lower water temperature and make the tank uncomfortable for your betta fish. If your tank does have a heater, it will need to work much harder to maintain the correct temperature, often leading to premature failure.

2. Choosing A Betta Tank Light .

Choosing how to light your betta tank is important. Betta fish originate from environments with little natural light, but betta fish need some lighting .

The two best types of light for a betta tank are traditional fluorescent lights or the newer LED lights. Both lights are ideal for fish and plants.

LED lights offer endless variations of adjustable color temperatures, longevity, and lower power consumption. Led light strips are also good low-power options and provide many of the same benefits.

The strip light below is an excellent choice and is adjustable from 16-84 inches to fit a variety of tank sizes. This lamp uses very little power, and adjustments can be made via remote control to set the mood of your tank from your sofa.

Larger options are also available through the link below.

KZKR Aquarium LED Fish Tank Light 16-84 inch Remote Control Hood Lamp for Freshwater, Saltwater, And Marine Aquariums

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Choosing a good lighting setup will help your betta’s bright, beautiful colors stand out, along with the colors of the plants and ornaments within the aquarium.

3. Choosing Betta Tank Substrate

A substrate is what covers the bottom of a fish tank. Gravel substrates are the most common, but you can also use sand, rocks, pebbles, soil, and clay to create your desired look.

Best Substrate For Bettas

Several types of substrate are suitable for a betta tank, so it ultimately depends on the look you want to achieve. Sand, gravel, and pebbles are most commonly used, but clay is found in a betta’s natural habitat, so it can also be considered.

Let’s take a quick look at the pros and cons of each.

Although not the most common substrate found in their natural habitat, sand is a good, all-around, natural-looking substrate that betta fish like.

Sand may cloud the water when cleaned, but it settles quickly.
Sand is soft and unlikely to damage your betta’s delicate fins.
Sand is similar in texture to areas where some betta fish originate.
Waste particles are easily removed from sand substrates.
Some areas of the sand substrate can be easily dislodged when cleaning, adding water, or due to fish rubbing against it. Regular raking may be necessary.
When cleaning with a siphon or vacuum, fine particles of sand can be easily sucked out of the tank and, over time, will need replacing.
Plants require deeper sand for roots to take hold in comparison to heavier substrates.

Gravel substrate is more commonly found in a bettas natural environment, and it is the easiest to maintain. When vacuuming with a gravel siphon, trapped food and waste are easy to dislodge without the risk of gravel being washed away.

Gravel is a low-cost sturdy substrate.
Gravel has a texture found in most natural habitats.
Gravel is light enough that waste is easily removed through vacuuming.
Plants can root easily in gravel.
There are many different colors and varieties of gravel substrate to create a unique style for your tank.
Fish often rub against gravel and rocks to scratch or remove foreign objects . Some gravel can be sharp and cause damage to delicate betta fins.
On rare occasions, fish can actually swallow small particles of gravel that become stuck and prevent eating.

Pebble substrates are another good choice for betta fish. The smooth edges are gentle on bettas fins, reducing the likelihood of injury when rubbing against it. Larger gaps allow trapped waste to be easily removed when cleaned, but it’s a little trickier to move a vacuum through.

Pebbles are found in most natural habitats that betta fish originate from.
Pebbles tend to have smooth edges that reduce injuries to fins and scales.
Waste sits nearer the surface and is easier to remove.
Plants can root easily in pebble substrates.
Pebbles come in a variety of colors and shapes.
None to be concerned about.

Clay is probably the substrate most commonly found in a betta’s natural habitat, but it is not the easiest to clean and maintain, so it’s not widely used in betta tank setups.

Clay is the most natural choice if you need to replicate a betta’s natural habitat.
Plants root easily in clay substrate.
The soft but thick texture is very difficult to clean, enabling waste and bacteria to build up.

Sand, gravel, and pebble substrates are all suitable if you want to introduce live plants, and they can be purchased in a variety of colors, sizes, and coarseness, allowing you to set up the perfect appearance for your new tank.

How To Add Substrate To Your Betta Tank

When adding substrate to your betta tank, you need to prepare it first by thoroughly washing it in a bucket of clean, soap-free warm water.

Once clean, spread the substrate evenly around the base of your aquarium. If you have chosen a gravel or pebble substrate, be careful not to crack the glass or scratch the acrylic of your tank.

Substrate Depth

The depth of the substrate depends on what type you’re adding. A sandy substrate needs to be about an inch deep, while gravel can go up to two inches. If you are adding plants, a deeper substrate will help roots to take hold.

There is no specific rule for substrate depth except that too much is hard to clean, and too little will cause gaps to continually appear, revealing the base of the tank.

4. Adding A Heater And Filter

Once you have added substrate to your betta tank, you will need a heater and a filter. Betta fish are tropical fish originating from the warm Asian climate, where they enjoy warm tropical water temperatures.

Heating A Betta Tank

An aquarium heater helps regulate the temperature of a tank due to its built-in thermostat. Heaters are an essential part of setting up a new betta tank and vary in price depending on their wattage and size.

I wrote a guide on whether betta fish need a heater that explains the reasons why and possible alternatives.

If you didn’t get a heater supplied with your tank, I have added a few options below.

SunGrow Betta Fish & Turtle Aquarium Tank Water Heater, 10-watt

A compact 10W heater, ideal for tanks up to 3.5 gallons. Completely automatic thermostat programmed to heat your tank to a consistent 75°F, perfect for betta fish. This heater is encased in toughened plastic to protect your betta from burns.

Eheim Jager Thermostat Aquarium Heater 50W

A simple, fully submersible aquarium heater with auto-calibration and an auto-run-dry, shut-off safety feature.

This 50W heater is suitable for aquariums of 5-15 gallons.

Multiple power options are available from 25-300W for larger aquariums.

Cobalt Aquatics Electronic Neo-Therm Pro Submersible Aquarium Heater – 200W

My favorite heater in this list, the neo-therm pro, has an advanced thermostat, is adjustable from 68°F to 94°F, and is accurate within a plus/minus range of 0.5 degrees. The LED display reads both the set temp and the tank temp simultaneously.

Built-in thermal protection circuity shuts down the heater before it can overheat, and the shatterproof casing is virtually indestructible.

This heater has a 200W output, suitable for aquariums of 50-60 gallons.

This heater is available in wattages from 25W to 200W, suitable for many aquarium sizes.

Betta Tank Filtration

Filters are recommended and provide many benefits, such as improving water quality, oxygenating the water, removing waste particles, and providing a habitat for beneficial bacteria.

Many filter options are available, from your standard filter to an under-gravel filter. Betta fish don’t like strong currents, so choose a filter that is correct for the size of your aquarium and has an adjustable flow rate.

Even if a betta fish tank kit provides heaters and filters sufficient for the tank size, dependent on the price and quality of the kit, they may be less reliable. Consider purchasing backup equipment in case they fail.

Below is a list of filters that I have used myself and highly recommend when setting up a betta tank for the first time.

TARARIUM Quiet Betta Fish Tank Filter Air Pump Filtration Water Pump 3 in 1 Rain Type Submersible Internal Filter for Aquarium/Turtle Tank 1-15 Gal.

TARARIUM Betta Fish Tank Filter 3 in 1 Filter & Air Pump for 1-15 Gallon Tank

The Tararium is a great little sponge-style filter that sticks to the side of your tank with suckers and makes virtually no noise except the trickle of water. The filter has a removable rain-style outlet that is a neat feature and can help add extra oxygen to the tank. This filter can also double as an air pump with an added hose. This filter is suitable for aquariums of up to 15 gallons.

Aqueon Quietflow AT40 Internal Power Filter

Aqueon is a well-known name in fish supplies, and this filter demonstrates why.

With a 3 stage filtration system that uses removable and replaceable carbon cartridges and a course media sponge for extra filtration, the Quietflow AT40 does a great job of keeping your tank water clean and odor-free, removing nitrates and ammonia.

This is the medium filter for up to 40 gallons, with the AT10 suitable for smaller aquariums.

This filter uses suction cups or hooks to hang on the side of your tank.

Fluval C Series Power Filter

The Fluval C Series Power Filter is my favorite on this list. Fluval provides excellent quality equipment that doesn’t disappoint.

The C series has multiple chemical and biological filtration methods, providing exceptional cleaning and filtering of debris and toxins.

This clip-on filter fits most tanks and has an adjustable flow rate that uses the patented refiltration system, which is perfect for betta fish.

This is the C3 model suitable for between 20 and 50-gallon aquariums. C1 to C4 sizes are also available through the link below, with a full description of each.

Installing A Filter And Heater

Check both the heater and filter for damaged or exposed wires and electricals before putting them in your tank. They are designed to be placed in water, so they are safe to use.

Heaters should be placed on the back of the tank, and filters should be positioned at one end. Position the filter outlet at the water surface. As water is expelled from the filter, it causes some surface disturbance which helps to oxygenate the tank water.

Set the heater to the correct temperature, 78°F to 80°F (25.5°C – 26.7°C) . While your betta tank is being prepared, regularly check the temperature and adjust the heater setting until the correct temperature has been reached.

Most heaters and filters can be positioned quite easily by suction cups. An analog or digital thermometer should be placed away from the heater element so that it only records the water temperature.

How To Setup A Betta Fish Tank Without Filter

Setting up a betta tank without a filter is possible but typically requires more frequent water changes and regular monitoring of water parameters.

The best way to set up a betta tank without a filter is to choose a 20 gallon tank or larger. Small tanks are difficult to maintain as waste builds up too quickly, and oxygen levels rapidly fall.

Large tanks should be heavily planted to provide oxygen for the growth of beneficial bacteria, and a thick layer of substrate will provide a healthy breeding ground for the bacteria.

A healthy environment for bacteria growth increases the level of biological filtration, reducing the need for mechanical filtration.

Biological filtration alone is not as effective in a contained environment such as an aquarium and requires extra effort on your part to reduce the buildup of waste.

If you do have a filterless aquarium, some tips I recommend following are:

Reduce feeding times and portions to prevent waste building up.
Regulate the temperature for healthy tank conditions to enhance biological filtration.
Regularly check for spikes in ammonia and nitrites so you can intervene before they get out of hand.
Frequent water changes (weekly or bi-weekly) of 15% – 25% to help control waste buildup and ammonia.
Use biological enhancers to feed the good bacteria and keep their levels high.

Although it’s possible to set up a betta tank without a filter, the added time and effort required to maintain the tank can be easily avoided with the addition of a cheap sponge filter.

Filters For Small Tanks

For a small aquarium, there is a wide range of nano tank or external filters available.

Find small tank external filters on Amazon

5. Adding Water To Your Betta Tank

Now you are ready to add some water to your betta’s aquarium. Adding water is not just a case of filling it up with tap water, several processes need to take place before the water is ready for new fish.

How do you set up a betta tank water?

Setting up betta tank water is done the same way as for other freshwater fish tanks and is based on several factors.

The steps to prepare your betta tank water are:

Fill your tank with water – Tap water is fine for betta fish , but location dictates if your tap water is soft or heavy in minerals and other impurities. Treat all tap water with a suitable water conditioner to remove contaminants such as chlorine. Alternatives to tap water are mineral water, spring water, or distilled water .
Cycle your tank water – New fish tank water can be a harsh environment, either containing too much bacteria or too little bacteria, along with toxic chemicals. Over several weeks your aquarium water develops an ecosystem full of oxygen, bacteria, and necessary chemical compounds, all creating stability and an inhabitable environment for fish.
Monitor and measure – You will need to closely monitor your water parameters for several weeks. The water will likely become cloudy as bacteria breed. As the cloudiness settles, test that all water parameters fall within acceptable levels before adding your betta fish.

Never add your betta to a tank that hasn’t been correctly prepared, as it can suffer from new tank syndrome, a condition that can cause shock. New tank syndrome causes several health issues and can even be fatal if ignored. I explain about new tank syndrome later in this article.

How Long Should Water Sit Before Adding Betta Fish?

When initially filling a tank with water, it should sit for approximately 4 to 6 weeks while certain chemical and biological processes take place to make it habitable for your betta fish.

When setting up a betta tank, it’s possible to add fish within two weeks, which often helps speed up tank cycling (also known as fish-in cycling), but take extra care to check that water parameters stay within the safe ranges specific to betta fish tank requirements.

You can find a more detailed explanation of tank cycling and water parameters in the next sections.

Cycling A Betta Tank

Cycling a fish tank is a process that allows a tank to produce its own bacteria and become a self-sustaining ecosystem. The good bacteria grow or multiply and help to normalize ammonia , nitrite, and nitrate levels, allowing the water to properly oxygenate .

Cycling a betta tank, just like any aquarium, takes time and is commonly called a fishless cycle. Running a heater and filter during the cycling phase will help to speed up the process as beneficial bacteria grow within the filter media and are distributed into the main water column as it passes through the filter.

Biological enhancers provide an immediate hit of good bacteria, also speeding up the cycling process. A Biological enhancer is a useful way to kick-start the natural process within your aquarium, and they are commonly used for emergency cycling a fish tank .

Ideal Betta Water Parameters

Before it’s safe to add your betta fish, water conditions should sit within the correct parameters, otherwise, you risk your fish’s health, causing them stress.

The nitrogen cycle ensures that toxic ammonia gets eliminated from the tank, with most of it turning to non-toxic nitrates due to the presence of nitrifying bacteria.

During the fishless cycle, the ideal water parameters you should be aiming for are:

Use a test kit to check water parameters and keep a thermometer in the tank for easy reference to the current water temperature.

By allowing your tank to sit for long enough before adding your betta fish, all parameters should fall within acceptable levels when testing.

Get to know your tank by testing the water more frequently in the beginning, and you will learn how often water changes are necessary.

6. Choosing Plants And Ornaments

Setting up a betta tank is not just about parameters and equipment, you should try to make it feel like their natural environment. Adding a few plants and ornaments will help bring a natural feel to the tank.

Live plants are best as they aid the natural biological cycle of your tank by providing food and oxygen, but you can also use silk or plastic plants.

The best plants for a betta are live plants that provide good coverage and hiding spots.

A few plants that are recommended are:

Some ornaments that I recommend are:

Wooden Logs – This is a good source of cover for betta fish and also offers shelter to other small invertebrates. It will provide your aquarium with some decoration while providing a natural setting because it has a natural look and feel.
Marimo Moss Balls – These are another good source of cover for betta fish, but they can also provide shelter to invertebrates that keep your tank clean and healthy, eating excess food particles to help with the biological cycle.
Plant Pot – A simple plant pot, even a broken one, will provide shady areas for your betta fish to hide.

Make sure new plants and ornaments have been rinsed and are free of chemicals before adding them to your aquarium. Plants can carry diseases, parasites, and other pests that you don’t want to bring into your new aquarium.

Below is an example of a wooden log-styled ornament that will look great in most betta tanks, providing an ideal hiding spot.

ZooMed Ceramic Betta Log

Find more examples of ornaments suitable for betta tanks on Amazon or Chewy.

7. How To Put Betta In A New Tank

The final step is adding your betta to their new tank, which can be tricky the first time.

Your new betta fish may become stressed, which you will know if their fins are clamped, and they dart about on top of the water’s surface. Stress is likely to be caused by spending too much time in isolation.

To avoid serious health problems from stress , it is important for your betta to adjust to the new water conditions in their new tank, which is a process called acclimatization.

How To Acclimate Betta Fish

Now that your new tank has been set up correctly, you need to know how to add a betta fish to a new tank. Acclimatization is important, and there are a few steps to follow.

Step 1. Add some water from the newly set up tank into the bag or container with your new betta fish. This will help them gradually adjust to the different water types and temperatures.

Step 2. After around 10-15 minutes, take the container or bag with your betta fish and float it in its new tank so that the water temperature in the container slowly adjusts and your betta can see their new surroundings before being released.

Step 3. Put some food into their new tank to give them some focus and let them know their new environment is one where they can relax.

Step 4. Release your betta gently by gently tipping their container or netting them with your hands behind their head and slowly releasing them.

Your new betta should now be well-acclimatized to its new tank, and you shouldn’t witness any problems.

New Tank Syndrome

Once in the new tank, there is a possibility that your betta will suffer “New Tank Syndrome,” a condition where your betta won’t eat, has clamped fins, darts about the tank, or hides a lot.

Although these behaviors are generally caused by the stress of a new environment, the actual cause of new tank syndrome is a tank that has not been correctly cycled and is still not ready for fish.

When setting up a new tank, it is important to take the time and do everything right. Water needs to be tested for correct parameters and oxygenation.

New tank syndrome is unlikely if you have followed my steps, so any odd behaviors are most likely be caused by stress, especially if they have been in a confined space for an extended period of time.

Provided the stress is not caused by poor water conditions, your betta should be fine in a few days, and they will get used to their new home.

Enjoy Your New Betta Tank

Well done for setting up your new betta tank. Now that you have done it once, it will be much easier the next time. The steps involved are similar for setting up any new freshwater aquarium except for recommended substrates, plants, and ornaments. Some fish also prefer different water parameters than betta fish, so do the required research and tweak as necessary.

Hopefully, you will enjoy your new betta fish and won’t have too many problems along the way. Just feed your betta correctly with a mixture of frozen foods and live food, avoid overfeeding, and give them a balanced diet. Feeding with live foods is also recommended from time to time.

Frequently Asked Questions

The overall cost of setting up a betta can be $50 to $200. Using a starter kit, you can buy a tank with the equipment and substrate included for $40 to $150, depending on the quality. A betta fish will cost $10+, dependent on variety and color. Adding plants and ornaments usually costs between $1 to $35.

Wait for 4-6 weeks before putting a betta fish into a new tank which is the time it takes to fully cycle. If you closely monitor the water parameters, you can add your betta after 2 weeks to help speed up tank cycling. Also, consider adding a biological enhancer for quicker cycling.

Only add a betta fish to a tank on the same day if it has been cycled and water parameters have been tested and are correct. Don’t add a betta to an uncycled tank, as it will most likely die. Uncycled tanks are often poorly oxygenated, contain heavy metals, and have unstable amounts of toxic ammonia and nitrites, all of which can harm or kill a betta fish.

Aquarist & Blogger

I have kept both marine and freshwater fish and set up almost 100 aquariums. Although I am no longer doing it professionally, I hope I can help others to enjoy keeping happy, healthy fish by sharing my many years of experience.

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Betta Fish Care

Last Updated: February 23, 2024

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Being able to take care of a betta fish, means knowing what makes them happy and healthy. It also means knowing what causes stress and disease so you can avoid it. In our comprehensive betta fish care guide, you’ll learn everything you need to know to promote a healthy habitat. This includes the recommended tank size, water quality and maintenance, feeding, and much more!

With proper care, your betta could live up to ten years despite their average life of 2-4 years. This discrepancy is largely due to misinformation in pet stores, on the internet, and from other betta owners. Betta fish are a beautiful and intelligent species of fish and deserve proper care.

Taking care of your betta requires a little education and responsibility for both kids and adults. The beautiful betta is pretty resilient and inexpensive to purchase and maintain, and they can bring years of companionship and joy.

If you’re reading this, chances are you already have your betta fish at home. If not, pat yourself on the back for doing research prior to purchasing one. Knowing how to take care of a betta before you buy one will make things a lot easier; especially when purchasing a tank and other accessories for the first time.

Betta Care: Healthy vs Sick Checklist

You should be able to identify the difference between a healthy and a sick betta. This affects what type of care you will need to provide him or her over time. Even when first purchasing a betta fish, it’s important to choose one that is healthy. Experienced caretakers, however, may purchase sick bettas to help save them from death and disease. Below are common characteristics of healthy and sick bettas.

Healthy Betta Fish

Swim up to investigate when you get close to their habitat
Are aggressive and may flare at you or other stimuli
Possess bright colors, especially males
Are hungry and eat regularly
Undamaged fins

Sick Betta Fish

Loss of appetite for extended periods of time
Lethargic and frequently hiding
Dull coloring, especially in males
Tattered fins with black edges
White growths on body or mouth
Swimming abnormally
Labored breathing
Clamped fins

Think your betta fish may be sick? Visit our disease symptom and treatment page .

Betta Tank Size and Environment

5 gallons is recommended, 2.5 is the absolute minimum.
Smaller tanks are more work, requiring increased maintenance.
No bowls. Those are for eating cereal out of!
Betta fish are jumpers, always secure a lid on your tank.
Don’t restrict access to the water’s surface, or fill your tank to its maximum capacity.
Betta fish need natural day and night light cycles.
Tank mates are tricky, visit our guide for more information.
Never place 2 males, or a male and female in the same tank unless breeding.
Females can live together in a “sorority” of 5 or more.
Consider a tank divider to house two bettas in a single tank.

The absolute minimum tank size for a healthy betta is 2.5 gallons with the recommended size being 5 gallons or more . Larger tanks are easier to maintain nitrogen cycles and temperature and require less frequent cleanings. One of the biggest myths regarding bettas is how they can live just fine inside a tiny bowl or vase. To put this into perspective, you could live survive inside a tiny wooden box too if given food and water right? You wouldn’t be very happy or healthy though.

In the wild, the betta splenden lives in shallow oxygen-deficient streams, rice paddies, and puddles, but many of these areas are still expansive in water volume. Your betta needs room to swim around and places to hide. Plus you’ll enjoy him or her that much more if they have ample space to put on a show.

Never fill your tank to the maximum volume. Betta fish need access to the water’s surface to gulp air using their unique labyrinth organ. The labyrinth organ allows them to extract oxygen from the air and not just the water via their gills. This is why bettas don’t require air pumps. Also make sure you have a lid on your tank because bettas are great jumpers , and may leap right out of your tank. It happens all the time and is a very sad way to lose a betta.

Light: Natural and Artificial

Betta fish need natural or artificial light while they are awake during the day, and darkness at night so they can sleep. This establishes a regular day and night pattern, regulating their internal biological clock. Plants and other decorations provide shade if they do want to get out of direct lighting for a period of time.

Avoid direct sunlight entering your tank because it can quickly raise the water’s temperature to dangerous levels and ignite unwanted algae growth. Artificial lighting is recommended, placing your betta fish’s habitat away from windows. This way you control light being on during the day, and off at night with the simple touch of a button.

Some bettas are too aggressive to live with other inhabitants, but they can play nice with certain tank mates that are non-aggressive and do not possess any bright colors or long fins. The reason the betta is known as the Siamese fighting fish is because of the male’s acute aggressiveness. This was heightened from selective breeding in the 1800s and is still a part of their genetic makeup.

Success increases by adding community fish with bettas in larger tanks that have plenty of spaces to hide. Use an 8-10 gallon or larger aquarium to provide enough space for a proper community habitat.

The increased space in larger tanks will decrease the territorial instincts of the betta and may decrease the aggression against certain types of fish. If in doubt, always ask a local pet store employee before you buy a potential community fish, or read the forums at bettafish.com .

DO NOT put two males in the same tank because they will fight and nip at each other, likely until one is dead or severely stressed. This is cruel and should never be done! Males should also never be housed with a female unless they are breeding for short periods of time and then separated.

Males will exhibit aggressive behavior against females too. Females, however, can live together in groups of five or more, but the tank size should double to 10 gallons or more. A good rule of thumb is 1 gallon per 1 inch of each fish . If you have 5 females, each 2 inches, that would translate to a 10-gallon tank.

Plants, Hideouts, and Decorations

Betta fish need plants and hiding places to feel safe.
Mimic a betta fish’s natural habitat to reduce stress.
Live plants are ideal for their added cleaning benefits.
Fake plants and leaves should be silk and not sharp plastic.
Be careful of sharp edges on hideouts and decorations.

A major part of caring for a betta fish involves making sure they are content and not stressed. Mimicking their natural habitat is the best way to accomplish that. Bettas love places to hide so they can feel safe, especially when sleeping. Think of hiding places like their homes.

Their natural habitat has lots of places to hide, including substrate, rocks, plants and sticks. Live plants are the best for aquariums because they can help remove ammonia from the water (e.g. Amazon Sword) and they’re soft.

Don’t worry though, artificial plants are fine too, and they are inexpensive and resilient. Their quality has really improved in recent years and look almost identical to the real deal. Be careful with artificial plants and decorations because they can damage your betta’s fins.

All artificial plants and leaves should be silk if possible . Logs and other hideaways should also be inspected for sharp edges and sanded down if necessary. Betta owners like to use what is called the ‘pantyhose test’, running it down the plant or decoration to see if it snags. If it does, the plant or hideout will likely snag a betta’s delicate fins too.

Visit our complete guide to the best live and fake betta fish plants .

Water Temperature and Quality

Maintain a tropical habitat at 76-81 degrees Fahrenheit.
Betta fish prefer water in the pH range of 6.5-7.5.
Ammonia should ideally be zero parts per million (ppm).
Nitrate should be less than 40 parts per million (ppm).
Nitrite should ideally be zero parts per million (ppm).
Use water conditioner/dechlorinator to make tap water safe for bettas.
Use an aquarium thermometer to monitor your tank’s temperature.
Filter’s reduce ammonia, nitrate and nitrite levels, and preserve healthy bacteria.
Avoid drastic changes in water temperature and water quality.
Use test strips to monitor water parameters.

Betta fish come from a tropical climate in Thailand so they require warm water in their tanks. Never let the water in your tank drop below 65 degrees or go above 82 degrees, and try to keep it in the range of 76 to 81 degrees Fahrenheit . This is the temperature bettas are happiest and active at.

The average room temperature in a home is 68 degrees Fahrenheit, which is well below their required temperature. If your habitat’s water is consistently too cold your betta will become withdrawn and eventually sick. This is the quickest way to reduce their potential lifespan. The only time a heater is not required is if the surrounding temperature in the room the tank is in is at least 78 degrees Fahrenheit.

Thermometer and Heater

Purchase an aquarium-safe thermometer to record the water’s temperature. If the temperature is too low, purchase a small aquarium heater (e.g. 20 watts). Heaters that are adjustable and contain a built-in thermostat are the best solutions.

Betta fish are very sensitive to changes in their habitat’s temperature and water parameters. When changing the temperature and water conditions, do it slowly and methodically. Abrupt changes can stress your fish and even cause adverse health consequences.

While filters aren’t mandatory, they are highly encouraged for aquariums larger than 3 gallons. Filters reduce harmful bacteria while supporting healthy bacteria. They are your little helpers when it comes to tank maintenance and caring for your betta fish. A filter is relatively inexpensive and is best when included with an entire setup.

Betta fish are not very strong swimmers and a filter can stress them out if the current is too strong. Prolonged agitation can lead to ripped fins, acute stress, and even death. Choose a filter that is adjustable or recommended for a betta fish. Baffle intake tubes and exits with pre-filters if necessary to reduce strong currents. For more information on betta fish and filters, click here .

Water added to the tank must be free of chlorine and other contaminants. If you use tap water, be sure to use a betta water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramine, ammonia, and other heavy metals. This prevents any potential harm or death. Never use distilled water either, because it has been stripped of all the essential minerals that bettas need to thrive on.

Betta fish prefer their water’s pH to be slightly acidic. They do best in the pH range of 6.5 to 7.5 (7 is neutral). Some tap water and spring water may be significantly higher than 7.5 which means you should always test your water before adding it to your betta’s tank. Consider purchasing a pH kit to keep it in a healthy range if necessary.

Also consider adding aquarium salt to your aquarium’s water to reduce stress and swelling, and to promote healthy fins.

For more information on recommended water types and parameters, visit this page .

Habitat Care, Cleaning, and Maintenance

A clean habitat promotes a healthy and happy betta fish.
Proper betta care includes a systematic maintenance schedule.
Non-filtered and smaller tanks require more frequent maintenance.
Do not clean an aquarium, substrate, decoration with soap.
Distilled white vinegar and regular bleach can be used as cleaning agents.
Only remove your betta fish during 100% water changes.
Monitor water parameters with test kits and strips.

Keeping a betta’s tank (ecosystem) clean is crucial to their health and happiness. As your betta consumes food, digests it, and eventually gets rid of it (poop!), it ends up in the tank’s water. The smaller the tank, the quicker it becomes polluted.

One of the most common issues linked to poor betta health is sustained exposure to increased levels of ammonia and nitrites. Water quality declines as ammonia builds up from waste and uneaten food. This forces the pH level of the water to get out of a healthy range.

Your fish will be swimming in its own waste and over time can lead to illness or even death. A good filter can help reduce these levels and establish healthy bacteria in tanks 3 gallons or larger. Filters are not recommended for tanks smaller than 3 gallons.

How Often Should You Clean A Betta Fish’s Tank?

A systematic maintenance schedule must be adhered to. Tanks under 3 gallons will need more frequent and complete water changes to avoid dangerous levels of ammonia. It can be done, it’s just more work. Non-filtered tanks require 1-2 water cycles at around 25% and a full 100% water change each week (depending on water quality). A 5-gallon filtered tank will only need 1-2 water cycles per week at around 25% of total volume and a 100% water change once per month depending on water quality.

Keep a pH kit in your supplies to test your tank’s water. Smaller tanks and those that are unfiltered are more work in the long-run because of how rapidly the water’s quality can decline . Remember, adding live plants can also help reduce ammonia levels in the water naturally.

Water cycling (removing some and adding new) and changes (complete volume replacement) are necessary for filtered tanks too but are more frequent and important in non-filtered habitats. If you’re only cycling the water, don’t remove your betta. Unnecessary removal can lead to potential stress and injury. Only remove your betta during 100% water changes.

Betta fish get used to their ecosystem and don’t like abrupt changes to it. Because of this, you should cycle more than you do a complete change. Removing too much of the existing water in the tank and then adding new can cause your fish to go into shock. This may be due to changes in water parameters or temperature. Always acclimate your betta fish when re-introducing them to their tank after a complete water change.

Removing 25-50% of the tanks water and refilling with similar temperature and pH dechlorinated water is the safest route. Whenever adding new tap water, make sure to use dechlorination drops or spring water that has chlorine already removed.

How to Clean Your Tank and Decorations

Cleaning your tank and its decorations is very important for your betta fish’s health. Only use approved aquarium decorations and materials that are safe for fish. Use a magnetic or algae cleaning wand for regular algae removal while the tank is filled.

Filters and their media should be cleaned by rinsing them in existing tank water to preserve healthy bacteria. Other components should be cleaned and disinfected. Never clean a tank or its components with soap ! It’s very tough to remove all the soap and it can poison your betta once the tank is refilled.

All existing and new decorations (including stones) should be washed thoroughly with hot, hot water to remove dust and other contaminants. If you want to increase the cleaning power, you can use distilled white vinegar to remove stubborn stains and smells.

Regular bleach that is free of detergents and perfumes is another excellent and powerful cleaning option; especially after disease. Use a 10% mixture: 9 cups of water to 1 cup of bleach. Do not let the mixture stay on any aquarium or decoration’s surface longer than 10 minutes. Always rinse, rinse, rinse all surfaces with clean water to remove any bleach traces before refilling.

Food and Feeding

Betta fish are carnivores – they need protein-rich food.
Keep the water’s surface unobstructed, they are surface feeders.
Betta’s tend to be picky eaters and may prefer a different brand or blend.
Overfeeding causes a lot of adverse health problems.
Feed 2-4 pellets, 1 to 2 times daily.
A varied diet is the best diet.

Part of betta fish care means regular feedings! Betta fish need specific food because they are carnivorous and like meat. In the wild, bettas feed on insects and their larvae on the water’s surface. Replicating their feeding environment and food will keep them happy and healthy.

Betta food comes in different varieties including pellets, flakes, live, and freeze-dried options. The most common ingredients are meat, fish, and shrimp. Do not feed your betta other tropical fish food because they need a specific protein-rich diet .

Betta fish can be very picky eaters too. Persistent refusal may mean trying a different brand or blend until you find the right one. Betta’s also love treats once in awhile, but they might start to prefer them if you overdo it.

Freeze dried bloodworms and brine shrimp are a betta’s favorites. Some owners prefer to use freeze-dried bloodworms or shrimp as their exclusive food source. Breeders may also stay away from manufactured pellets and flakes, opting for live foods to prepare for shows and breeding. The most important part, however, is ensuring a rich and varied diet.

Overfeeding

It’s hard to gauge how much you should be feeding a betta. Food labels are often unclear and inconsistent. Their stomach is roughly the size of their eye and pellets can expand after they’re ingested. Overfeeding leads to bloating, constipation, swim bladder issues, and a build up of uneaten food in the tank .

Get on a regular feeding schedule, and follow these guidelines if you’re still unsure. If you decide to feed your betta twice a day, make sure to feed them about 2-3 pellets max during each feeding. Feeding once per day should be 3-4 pellets.

Many betta owners get stressed wondering why their fish won’t eat, but in reality it’s usually from prior over feedings. Betta fish may also refuse to eat during stress, especially when first bringing them home. Betta’s can go 14 days without food before they starve to death, just like a human.

If you’re going away for 2-3 days, never add extra food to compensate. It’s better to allow a betta to go without food than to dump a bunch in there and think they’ll eat it. They won’t and it will only dirty the tank. If you’re going away for more than 2-3 days, visit our vacation guide .

Infographic: Betta Fish Care Sheet

This infographic contains most of the things you’ll need to remember in order to take care of a betta fish. Consider printing or saving it for future reference:

How to Take Care of Different Betta Fish

The difference between female betta fish care and male betta fish care is very minimal. They both require the same water parameters, food, tank size, and decorations/plants. Males and females can require different types of care before, during and after breeding, but that’s more advanced than basic care. Females can also coexist together in sororities which lead to different recommendations on care too.

Betta fish fry (babies) require special care during upbringing . Petco recently began selling baby betta fish, and with improper care, they can die prematurely. Fry require special care, and special diets to survive because they cannot fit most betta pellets into their mouths. Fry upbringing should be reserved for experienced caretakers and breeders.

There are over 70 different species of betta fish, with the betta splenden being for sale in pet stores. Betta splendens come in many different tail variations through selective breeding, however, all require the same level and types of care. These include, but are not limited to, the crowntail, veil tail, double tail, delta tail, butterfly, and halfmoon.

Maintenance Schedule for Proper Betta Care

Ensure the water temperature is between 76 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit. Look for odd behavior and signs of illness or fin damage. Check heaters, filters and other equipment. Feed your betta fish.

Cycle 20%-40% of the water each week for larger tanks. Change 100% of the water for smaller tanks (e.g. 2.5 gallons). Consider fasting your betta one day a week for digestive health. Vacuum up uneaten food and waste. Check pH and bacteria levels.

Check the functionality of filters, replacing media as necessary. Prune live plants, clean fake plants, decorations, and algae. Perform water cyclings and/or 100% changes on tanks 5 gallons or larger. Vacuum up all waste and uneaten food from gravel. Check water quality and pH levels.

Caring for a betta fish isn’t that hard once you establish a routine and separate the myths from the facts. As a betta owner, you should always be monitoring the health of your fish and watching out for any indicators of concern. Most issues can be traced back to poor care in feeding patterns, acclimation, and tank maintenance.

Once you know how to care for a betta fish, please spread this information to other caretakers. Over time we can help reduce the prevalence of misinformation out there. Betta fish deserve the right to live a long and healthy life in captivity. Thank you.

Still, have questions? Visit the FAQ library or comment below.

About the author

Hey, I'm Bryan (founder of bettafish.org) and I’ve been caring for and keeping betta fish for over 9 years. I’d like to extend you a warm welcome to the best community and informational place to learn all about this wonderful tropical, freshwater fish.

213 thoughts on “Betta Fish Care”

i am taking care of a sad and cold beta. they,my neighbor, turned off his filter, the heat in house is 60 degrs. and i tht he was dead . I turned onthe filter and it made him alert but the poor thing is low on water, in the dark, cold and drafty . what can i do to warm him up ? He is lethargic. ,has no lid . I wish i could print this page for my friend who said “it’s only a fish” which kind of broke my heart. i was/am still a prof pet sitter, at 18 hr. days at my heyday for 6 mo. stretches at a time, over 21 years as company owner & walker/sitter to us, there is no such creature as “only”, not in *my* vernacular. he’s cold and sad, mr. fish.

Poor little guy! You are very kind hearted and I totally agree. The easiest way is with a heater because it warms up the water slowly which is recommended to prevent sudden changes and stress. Heat lamps should not be used.

Can someone tell me what is wrong with my little guy. He’s laying at the bottom. Breathing looks labored. I can’t add a picture. White mark along his tummy. Marking around the head.

Sounds like stress without seeing a photo. Check that your water temperature and parameters are in the proper range.

Hey I’m getting a Betta and considering getting a frog to go with him will it work

In the right size tank (over 10 gallons), yes, African Dwarf frogs can be a great addition.

Dear Sir, My Cousin had a betta fish for a full five years. It lived in a small bowl, Was happy, and used no water conditioner. (Tap Water) We had no filter or heater and it lived in a basement room. It was about 60 degrees down there and the heating turned off and on.

My Other family members have had bettas and they lived in vases and were fed and where happy too.

I would like one but my family isnt wanting to buy a new tank instead of me using a small bowl.

It’s possible for a betta to live a long time in poor housing, but it’s a dull and boring life for them. A vase takes up about as much space as a 2.5 or 3-gallon tank, so I would continue trying to persuade them. If not, then I can’t recommend you getting another one.

I bought a female for my 9 year old. One gallon tank with one live plant. She loves pellets. I have conflicting advice. How often to clean if using bottled gallon spring water? How often to feed as the fish loves two pellets twice daily but I was told feed 2-3 x week…

There is a food and feeding page on the website here, but first the tank is too small and will lead to health problems. I recommend at least a 2.5-gallon because otherwise the water gets dirty fast with ammonia build up and nitrates which are harmful. With a 2.5-gallon it should be around 2 partial water changes per week, of 20-25% of the total volume of water. For food, you should feed 1-2 times per day, with 2-3 pellets per feeding, and take one day with no food (fasting). A diverse diet is good as well, introducing some freeze-dried bloodworms or daphnia on occasion.

Unbelievable talk about a bully to pick on a defensive fish. Steal it and give it a better home….it deserves it…. This site is amazing Bryan go ahead say it…..

I agree, steal that little guy and give him the life he deserves, as it was not the fishes choice to be a pet in a tank verses the wild..

Take him… They won’t care ‘he’s only a fish’… Give it a good home…

Hi, He needs a heater ASAP. How big is his tank? The size of the tank determines the strength of the heater – so the water doesn’t get too hot. For a small 1 gallon tank you have to get a weak heater like Hydor 7.5 Watt, for 2.5 gallons, you can get a 10W one, like Aqueon Mini Heater. They cost less than $10 each. It should be plugged in at all times. The filter and the light should go on and off, but the heater has to be on at all times, unless the temperature is over 85 degrees. You need a thermometer, as well, there are always inexpensive choices. Please get this at the pet store for him ASAP, or he will likely die. If cost is an issue, I will gladly PayPal you the amount you spend on his heater. Feed him sparingly while he’s cold, because his metabolism is very slow right now. Good luck to you both. Please update us, if you have a moment. Thank you, Theresa:)

This comment was from 2016, but I do appreciate your advice and care to another person who was in need.

My Betta is 4 yrs old and all the time hardly does he come out from hiding, I know Bettas like to hide, but this a little to much. When I put food out he doesn’t come for his food, I even bought brine shrimp, and I never see him eat like he used to. I’m now giving him bettafix, first week he was back to his old self, now hes back hiding again,. I’m back on the bettafix and nothing. Do you think he is dying?

Hi Theresa, 4 years is considered to be an elder betta as average life span is approximately 2-5 years. As they age betta’s will get lazier, hide more often, and eat less because of their decreased activity. It’s hard to say whether he is dying or not without more information.

How do you tell if its a female or male?

Hi Sonia, there are a few different ways you can tell. Females are generally much smaller in size, have less vivid coloring, shorter fins, and have a small white egg spot on their underside. Males are the opposite being larger in size, they have brighter coloring (bright green, blue, red, etc.), long flowing fins and a visible ‘beard’ protruding out from their gills.

Amazing, you guys are good at this I’m about to get a Betta fish too I’m a little nervous, I’ve done research on them so I hope I know what I’m doing.

Once you go to choose, you’ll know. As with most of Mother Natures creatures, males are more pleasing to the eye and the type of Betta is more obvious. So many options,only one choice.Do you know your type?;)

Usually at petsmart will have the gender on the lid.

I added 3 female better to my 20 gallon community tank. One of them was extremely aggressive and is now in her own 3 gallon tank. The problem is the other 2. When I feed the fish the 2 female bettas beat the neons and the Columbian tetras to the food. They get too much and have swollen bellies. Any suggestions on how to avoid this? I have to feed them…

Varying temperaments are tough when first setting up a sorority tank, not all are cut out for it and usually, more is better than fewer females. Two in the community tank might give you problems unless there are ample hiding spaces and it’s a larger tank. I suggest you try feeding the other fish at night when betta’s tend to be less active, or try using surface feeders and placing the food at different ends of the tank. Another more time consuming option is to place the two betta’s in separate breeding tanks with their own food during feedings.

Thanks for your help. The 2 female bettas in the community tank actually get along fine. They just pig all the food from the rest of the fish. I got a net breeding tank and put the 2 of them in before feeding the rest. They get their food and everyone else gets theirs.

Thank you for all of the information you provided!

I have a 2 gallon aquaponic tank. What kind of (small) plants can I grow on top? How do I start them off to make sure my fish and the plants are happy?

Please read all of the information about betta care on this website and get an aquarium with a filter and heater. The plants DO NOT purify the water and your betta will not thrive in this situation.

I have a filter. I never said the plants were there to act as a filter. He still gets properly fed and the tank regularly cleaned. I’m asking what plants to use because I don’t want to put anything potentially toxic in there.

my beautiful halfmoon betta makes small bubbles almost like a nest, A friend said it means he is happy in his environment. Is this so or why does he make all those tiny bubbles?

This means he’s trying to attract a mate/female and is healthy. Males make a bubble nest in anticipation of mating, where they will take care of the eggs in the bubble nest.

I bought a fish tank the shape of a fish it holds a gallon if I put another half gallon in it ; it will go to the top I bought this because all I ever see bettas in are small bowls so I thought I was doing a good thing now reading this don’t know what to do the tank is really nice to

What causes the slick on top of the water in a freshwater tank? I have a 3 gallon nano tank with 1 female Betta (too mean for my 20 gallon tank) and a small Marimo Moss ball. I have a filter for up to a 10 gallon tank and change the filter and water regularly (not at the same time). It happens if I use conditioned tap water or spring water. I skim the slime off with a net and paper towels, and as soon as I turn the filter back on more comes out of the filter. Could I have a bad filter or maybe I need a smaller filter? I don’t have any problem with the 20 gallon.

It doesn’t mean you have a bad filter, it’s usually from proteins in the water and yes simply skimming it off the water is all you need to do. My guess is your larger tank has faster moving water, and the smaller tank – the water is more still causing the film to stay intact. It’s unsightly but not harmful unless it’s caused by bacteria and not protein.

I was giving two baby bettas a female and a male the past couple weeks. I have bettas but they are much older. What do i have to do to take care of them because i read your atricle vut says they need different care. What exactly do i have to do.? I cant find it on the web.

Bryan, your website has been a lifesaver! I’ve had my male Betta for four days and I’m obsessed! He eats out of my fingers and follows my finger around the top and sides of his tank – it’s adorable and as odd as it sounds, I think we have a fun little connection! I don’t want him to fall ill and I definitely don’t want him to die! I have him in a 3.5 gallon tank with a couple silk plants (that he loves resting in), a coconut hideout, and the Betta hammock. I don’t have a filter hooked up yet, but I’m thinking I’ll hook it up when I do his next water change and see if it bugs him. He seems super happy so I don’t want to stress him out, but if I can keep a low flow, I’m thinking it’ll help keep the tank safer in between cycles/changes.

I was hoping to find some info on the different ways to “vacuum” out the crud. I bought one of those siphons to help get rid of it, but I see in your articles that you mention an aquarium-safe turkey baster. I was only going to use the siphon when I did cycles, but a turkey baster sounds easier for a quick sweep of the gravel, plants, etc. So, can this turkey baster be your typical kitchen utensil that is strictly used for an aquarium (and not for human food)? Or is there something more specific that I can find at the pet store?

Thank you so much in advance, and keep up the great work with this site!!!

Thank you so much for your feedback and that’s awesome Meg. Aren’t they so cool? What I meant by an aquarium-specific turkey baster is just one you only use for your aquarium. There is no special one, but a siphon is definitely helpful for bigger cleanings/cycles. You can use the turkey baster in-between the bigger cleanings.

Thank u bryan

What about these plants on top of the tank set ups? And letting the roots grow in the water! Is that a good thing for the fish?

Hi, my beta recently just passed away, i feel broken. I was always loving to it, but now I feel like I could have cared for it more than I did. To show that I am again buying a beta, and I will take care of it better than I did show it all my love that I had to my old beta and even more. I want to ask what I did wrong to make it pass away in less than one and a half year, was it just its lifespan, because like two days before it passed it started to wither in its fins. I want to know what could have caused this. I clean its tank weekly and feed it daily. I changed its tank using bottled mineral water. Could this have been the problem? I will not do the mistake I did to my new beta and make him live as long as possible!

Sanjeev, it’s hard to diagnose without additional information, but it sounds like it could have been stress/fin rot.

I have only had previous experience with goldfish and recently got a five gallon glofish tank and decided a betta would be best for it. There are two settings for the lights. One of them is natural and the other one is blue. Can the blue light do harm to bettas? It looks really cool when its on, but I don’t want to hurt the fish. I’ve been researching like crazy before I buy the fish, but haven’t found anything pertaining to blue lights.

The blue light is fine, so long as you don’t keep it on all day, every day – and give them time to rest/sleep in the darkness.

My daughter just bought a betta two weeks ago. I never see this fish eat and when she does she will put the pellets in her mouth and spit them back out. I have a pro clear aquatic system I can put her in but I have no clue what this tank does or what kinda fish it is meant for and I do not want to hurt her by the tank getting too warm.

Betta’s can be very picky eaters, head over to the food/feeding page for more information, and consider getting a different pellet. Sounds like she doesn’t like the kind you have. Also, I’m not very familiar with those tanks, but as long as you have a regulated heater, you should be fine.

It’s totally normal for a Betta put pellets in the mouth and spit out. Just keep an eye that he/she eats the pellet completely. Mine does too but I give him 3 pellets, twice a day and I check if he has finished it or not. Till he finishes it’s fine, his food his way to eat.

Hi! Thank you for writing this! In the past, I have had one betta that lived to be six and a half years old, and the other only lived a few weeks after he turned three. (They did not live together) He started to get lazy and had fin rot. The one that lived longer also had constant fin rot that would go away when we treated it, and then came back. Their water temp was around 78 degrees F and their PH was always fine. They also got 50% water changes every month, and were fed betta pellets and peas. (They LOVED the peas) I have a three gallon tank. I am planning on buying a heater this week, and then getting another betta. I was wondering if I could save one of those baby betas from petco or just get an adult? I know the babies are more of a challenge, but I think it would be worth it. Also, how can I keep my betas from getting fin rot? I treated it with salt and water drops, but it always came back. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Hey Alyssa, thanks for the feedback and glad you’re back to bettas. You could try a baby, it’s definitely worth it if you have them for more of their life, just make sure you read up on how to care for one and get some flakes you can crush up for feeding. Fin rot is downright tough sometimes, but the best cure for me has always been maintaining a clean tank and using aquarium salt in small doses during each water change. You can also add Indian Almond Leaves which can help prevent/cure the fin rot too.

Hi Bryan. How often does a Betta poop. I feed him 2 pellets in the morning and 2 or 3 in the evening. About once a month I find a blob of poop, about 3/4 size of a small pea, at the bottom of the aquarium. He’s not bloated nor sluggish. He’s always ready to eat. Is this normal for a Betta?

If you’re finding large blobs of poop that can be a sign of constipation or overfeeding. You don’t seem to be experiencing any of that though, but keeping one day per week for fasting may be ideal to make the poop more regular and frequent. Here’s some more information on bowel movements .

Great article, thanks so much. My betta has bad fins. Will they get better? I see you mention aquarium salt and Indian Almond leaves. What is aquarium salt? Is there a good brand?

They will heal and get better yes. A good brand is API, and is available at your local pet stores or on Amazon. For more information on Fin Rot – please visit this page .

We had a betta and made a handful of care mistakes that ultimately led to his death in about 9 months. We are now gearing up to purchase another, but are dealing with the effects of how we handled the first fish’s death. Since the tank had become riddled with algea and the fish seemed to have died via a white fungus on his body, we cleaned the tank with bleach. My husband let the bleach soak the tank and all of the tank components for about 24 hours. In your post above, you said to never leave bleach on any tank surface for longer than 10 minutes. . . does this mean that I have to purchase a new tank, filter, and everything else? Or since we have rinsed it out and left it dry for a couple months will it be okay to use again?

Your help is greatly appreciated!

If it has been sitting for months and you’ve rinsed everything extremely well the tank should be fine without needing to purchase new equipment. Anything that is porous, however, like filter pads etc. should be replaced if they were soaked in bleach.

Where can I find that beautiful rectangular tank that you use for the “tank” section picture!!!!

I personally own this tank Carly and love it! It’s called a Fluval Spec V and you can get it on Amazon here . Once you add a baffle sponge to the filters output tube to slow down the filter flow for betta fish it’s a beautiful and functional tank.

Hi Bryan, I’m housing George, my half moon in the Fluval Spec V. I tried adding some baffle sponge in the water outlet but the lower flow seemed to promote brown algae growth. Are they related?

It’s possible, considering the water doesn’t churn as much but I think it’s more than likely something else. Is your tank near direct sunlight? That can speed up algae growth. Are you doing water changes routinely? Have you replaced the filter media on schedule?

I have 5 Betta tanks all over my home for years and none of them have heaters or filters mainly because they are all in odd places that are far from outlets: hallway table, bathroom, kitchen island etc. I am however diligent with water changes. I have newly discovered female Bettas and purchased four last week! I’m excited because they are all in the same tank; so far so good… Is it safe to assume I will now need a filter? Also should purchase one more since it seems that five females will fare better than four?

Five is better than 4, and you may now find you need a filter to keep up with the bioload of having that many fish in one tank. Ammonia and other toxins will build up faster unless you like doing daily water changes and cleanings – depending on your tank’s size.

Thanks for the info Bryan! I went ahead and purchased my 5th female betta and all is well. The tank I have is 10 gallons. I also attached the top loading filter that it came with and put it in an area where I can plug it in; it also has a light attached to it. I added live plants, a Mayan head they can hide in and 2 live snails to help with cleaning. This is my first time buying snails and I’m wondering if I’m doing too much by adding the snails?

That’s great to hear, and you bet. I don’t think you’re doing too much, just keep an eye on everything. Snails can be fickle in a new tank and often die due to stress or change in water parameters, and they only have a lifespan of about a year for most types. So hopefully you have good results.

I may be getting some bettas soon and ive never had one before, however i do keep multiple reptiles. the betta would be staying in my room, as the reptiles do and as a result, would be affected by the heat lamps i use for them. the lamps are a few feet away so they shouldnt have any direct effect on the fish tank itself, and ive gotten quite good and efficient at regulating the temperature of my room for myself and my animals, however i keep my snakes lamp on 24/7 as if i turn it off, my room and her tank would go down to about 60 degrees which would be bad for her and the lizard which need 80-90 degree temperatures. my main concern with this is the lighting. you say that the beta needs a day night schedule. i already have a good day to night schedule set up for the lizard and as the heat lamp for my snake has a relatively low light level, he took maybe a week to adjust to having this small amount of light and he sleeps quite well (its adorable, once i find him between the leaves in his enclosure, he is so peaceful looking), i was wondering if a betta may adjust the same way he has and adapt to having a low amount of light at night. I will be adding decorations and plants to his tank so would he be able to use those to block out the light at night?

You could add a divider in between the tanks to help and yes plenty of plants and caves/hiding areas would be beneficial to ensure your betta has enough darkness for rest. Even the moon provides a little light, but we want to avoid sunlight-level light at night as best as possible.

Will an air bubble hurt my fish

Do you mean an air pump or air stone to oxygenate the water? If so, nope, they will aid in better oxygenation of the water which bettas can take oxygen through their gills or via their labyrinth organ at the surface of the water from the air.

Bryan, I am so hoping you have time to help us. I have been all over the web and am getting so much conflicting information. Our beautiful blue male fin “indigo” has been very lethargic laying on the bottom of the tank. Not eating either. He is about one year since we bought him. He may eat one pellet then runs to the bottom. We have a 2.5g tank with filter and heater. I do a full tank cleaning about 1xMonth (now see I should also do partial cleaning 1xWeek). I did not notice that before my last full cleaning that a lot of water had evaporated from the tank leaving the water level BELOW THE FILTER! I immediately did a full cleaning w/water conditioner. It has been a week and he is still staying at bottom of tank only swims up to get air and seems to breath heavily when he gets back to bottom. Is there anything else I can do. Fins look fine. No whit spots. Just stays at bottom. Someone suggested not feeding him for a couple of days. We are on day 2 no food.

Ph is 6.5. He now will come up and eat 2 pellets then swims quickly back to bottom and appears to have labored breathing.

That pH is on the low end and should be closer to 7.0

His symptoms are not that of overfeeding, so not feeding him is not going to help. When you did the full water change, did you acclimate him back into the tank or just dump him back in? Did you clean the filter components with tap water? I ask because it sounds like stress/shock behavior from the abrupt change of the water parameters and potential loss of good bacteria. If you have test strips make sure everything checks out for ammonia, pH, etc. You could administer some aquarium salt (not table salt) per its instructions and dissolved in another container of tank water first. This helps reduce stress, otherwise keep monitoring him and doing the water changes making sure the water is clean and to the right temperature.

What do you mean by acclimate him back? I took him out of the tank, replaced the filter, water and cleaned his accessories (including the filter) with warm water. I conditioned the new water and got the tank back to his normal temperature and put him back in. He is still hanging in there but with the same behavior of barely eating and staying at bottom of tank. I am doing the partial water changes and checking ph. Last check was at 7. We have had him a year and this is the first time I have seen this behavior. Pretty sad. I hope he can recover.

Please read the acclimation page . It involves slowly adjusting them to the new water parameters and temperature. Any abrupt changes cause stress and can exacerbate the problem.

Bryan, I wanted to let you know that I have done so many of the suggestions and finally, finally he is showing much better response. I am due to do another full cleaning which makes me nervous but I am going to take it slow and make sure I am not misoany steps. Thank you for your web site! We are so happy to see him swimming about again and rushing to get his pellets.

So good to hear! You’re welcome.

I have a question concerning lighting. My fluval has a blue moon light. I turn the main light on for 4 hours in the evening. When can I use the blue moon light? Thank you

The bright setting should be used during the daytime/early evening, and if you want to, you can switch to the blue (less bright) light in the later evening/night, but make sure you turn it off before going to bed because betta’s need a day/night schedule as well for rest.

Thank you. In order to avoid excessive algae, would it be acceptable to leave the blue light on during the day, say from 7am to 4pm, the bright light from 4pm to bedtime, and everything off a night? Thank you again

I am planning on getting a betta for the first time soon. My 5 gal fish tank is going to be in the corner of my room next to a window. Should I use some kind of covering on the side of the tank closest to the window to keep it from over heating, or will having a heater to regulate the water temp be enough? I’ve put a tank in the same spot in the past and don’t recall it heating up but am wondering if I should have some sort of barrier just to be safe. Thanks

If it gets direct sunlight, I would be safe and add the barrier, and monitor the temperature with an aquarium thermometer. Also, direct sunlight will cause algae to grow much faster.

Hi! So, I want to get a fish, and I was hoping for an angel fish because I grew up with those. However, I am only able to get a betta, which are also beautiful, so I’m not complaining. The thing is, this is my first fish that I’ve had to take care of, as the angel fish I only had as a small child. I’ve been doing research all night, but I’d like to know if you might have any extra advise for me? Anything is appreciated! Thank you!

Hi Lulu – I think it’s great you are researching before buying a betta fish instead of after! If you’ve read this page, it has all of the major things you should be concerned with. Best wishes!

Love this site! So much information. My Betta was shy at first but now comes when I call his name and then I give him a treat. He lives with a little dwarf frog and they seem to get along quite well.

That’s great Donna, and thank you for the feedback!

I don’t know what to do. I just got a new fish and he doesn’t like any food that we bring him. I also have another fish that is sick. Petco did not treat him well. His fins were all broken up, he doesn’t swim normal, and his scales are dull. Please help me heal him. I already lost five other fish.😓🐟

Evelyn, you can read the food and feeding page to see some other options I recommend. Also, after reading this care page, you should have a better understanding of what to provide and not to provide in order to promote better health.

So cute … Can I see the pics of ur tank

I am just recently getting back into caring for bettas and have a red half-moon Max. Max has a 3.5 gallon tank with filter, pump and heater and seems to acclimating to his new home well (done over a period of a few days). He will chase my finger when I put it up to the glass and seems to be doing well overall. He is fed twice a day, but does not eat from the surface, preferring to nudge his food to make is sink and then torpedoing it as it floats to the bottom. My only concern is although the tank is a little over a foot deep, the circulation on the water up near the surface might be too much for him. He does go to the top to gulp air but seems to prefer to hang out at about six to 8 inches down.

Hi Elle. Haha, I had a betta that used to like eating like that too instead of at the surface. You could consider switching to a sponge filter instead of the current one if the current is too much, or finding a way to slow the flow with decorations/plants.

Hi!! I’ve had a betta for about a month. He is in a 3 gal. tank. Every 2-3 days I have had to replenish the water (2-3 C.) as it has been evaporating. I have a filter and heater. I think I should be adding water purifier drops each time I add even a little water?? Also I read somewhere that once/week it’s ok/good for a betta to ‘fast’ and to give him a cooked pea. Is this true? With a filter in the tank how often should I do a 100% water replacement? 1X/month? Thx so much for all your help. Lucy & Mr. Ollie

Yes, all new water going into the tank should be treated with conditioner to remove harmful things like chlorine. I keep a jug of pre-treated/conditioned water by the tank for this very purpose. Fasting is definitely good practice to keep your betta regular and the pea is to introduce some additional fiber to also keep the betta’s digestive tract functioning properly. A 100% change will depend on the size of your tank and many other factors like if you have live plants, how your water parameters are, and algae levels for example.

Im not new to owning betta fish, but I’m new to breeding them. I put my baby girl in the male Bettas tank, but she gets a line across her head/nose when I introduce her to her mate. I believe she’s ready because she doesn’t run from him. She goes up to her and folds over in attempt to breed with him but he denies her. The weirdest part is my boy has been building a bubble nest for over a week now. So: what’s the line on my girls nose And Why isn’t my boy accepting the girly?

Hi Brooke, the lines on her is likely her vertical breeding stripes, signaling she’s ready to mate! That is odd the male continues to refuse her so far even though he’s built a bubble nest. He may not see her as a suitable mate.

Apologies in advance if this is really long, I tend to ramble when I’m anxious.

There is a slight possibility I might get my first betta today and it’s a bit of an emergency buy if he’s still at the store today. I’ve had my eyes on him since around September, and he’s been having fin rot. I’m scared that he’ll die soon if he won’t get adopted by a good owner. I’ve been trying to convince my mom, she thinks small tanks, vases, bowls, etc are fine and we don’t exactly have a ton of money set aside for the best betta tank on the market. If anything, I might be able to get a 2.5 or 3 gallon, but it’s better than a tiny unfiltered bowl. I’ve been reading about bettas here and there for about a year, but I accidently just had an all nighter researching proper tank maintenance, plants, setup, and fin rot treatment because I’ve just been so worried about him. I almost cried, and that’s saying something because it takes ALOT to make me cry.

Back around late 2017, I noticed a betta at the store that had pretty bad fin rot and some weird lump on his side, near his back. It might’ve been some kind of defect though.

Anyways, I kept an eye on him for a week or two and he didn’t get any better, so I told an employee. He didn’t seem to take me seriously, saying “it’s fins are supposed to be like that” and that it ate too much. He grabbed the cup like it was nothing and was drumming his fingers on the side while he was talking to me, and the poor fish was terrified. He proceeded to take it to an employee’s only room, and I assume he either ‘put it down’ or it died itself. It upset me alot to see him treat it like that and I don’t want to see the other one get the same ‘treatment’ and I don’t like how the guy talked to me.

I’m honestly really scared. I don’t want to screw up somehow and kill the fish. All the water stuff is kinda confusing but I just want the best I can do for him. I don’t even know if we can afford a good setup yet. I’m crossing my fingers and hopefully a stroke of luck comes my way and I’ll finally be able to take him home and give him the care he deserves. My heart breaks at the thought of him dying in that tiny cup or at the hands of an irresponsible owner. I’ve honestly grown attached to the little guy.

So uh… Does anyone have any tips? I’ve never had any fish since when I was around four years old, and those were goldfish that died pretty quickly, so obviously I’m new at all this. I just don’t want to risk doing something wrong and making him worse.

Most people find it weird that I’d care so much for a little betta, but I love animals so much and I want to educate people on these wonderful fish.

Hi Ross – kudos to you for wanting to help him out. That’s very unfortunate about the employee’s knowledge and negligence. Providing him with a 2.5 or 3-gallon unfiltered tank with a built-in thermostat heater would be a large upgrade for him and hopefully his health. You would need to perform more frequent water changes without a filter. I recommend some testing strips to monitor the water parameters, they help remove a lot of the uncertainty behind water. Like anything, it gets easier the more you learn and research.

Can I say something, it doesn’t cost a fortune to have a Betta. All you need is to take proper care, and that information you’ll get here. Please don’t overfeed . And don’t get nervous, it’ll be all good

Hi Bryan! I’m a new owner of a Betta. I’ve had Blue for about a month. He has been hanging on the sides of the tank for about a week. It’s a 3.5 gallon tank with a heater and digital thermometer. His color seems to be fading all over. He doesn’t seem sick. Is there something else that could be wrong. I feed him once a day. Please help??

I would start by checking the water parameters, ensuring the pH is in the correct range and ammonia is not building up and above 0ppm. Aquarium test strips are great to have on hand for this. Try an immediate 25-50% water change and see if things improve. You can also do a daily 20% change to see if that helps until you get strips.

Hi, I’m new to being a Betta owner. I got Chronos (Butterfly Betta) not even a week ago, and I’ll admit I wasn’t prepared, though strictly speaking not my fault since a friend bought him for me, but regardless, a few days ago I noticed what looked like missing scales on his head and a darkening of his color on his head. Today it seems as though his pure white fins are slightly discolored. I think he is sick. It I’m not sure if I’m being paranoid because up until tonight he has been acting normal. I treated him with some Bettafix completely changed his water and cleaned the tank. I also bought a small flat heater for him since its kinda cold in my area. He is in a 1 gallon tank (which I know is too small) I plan on getting a bigger one but can’t at this current moment. Is there anything else I can do or any other advice you have for me?

Hi Ciara, yes I would work on getting a larger habitat. As for the color changes or becoming more vibrant, that’s normal in some bettas as they are cared for better. If Chronos is still eating, active, and has a spunky personality then you are probably doing just fine.

Hello! I’m so glad I found this page – I am a brand new (surprise) betta mom. They were given as party favors at a birthday party my daughter was invited to. Imagine how thrilled my husband was. I didn’t know what would happen to the fish if they didn’t get taken so that’s why I’m here now, trying to learn about these guys.

Anyway, this page saved my fish, because I didn’t know they jumped so I went to cover his bowl and he had already jumped out 🙁 we got him back in and he seems okay, and we put a sheet of plastic wrap with holes poked in it over the top until I can get a larger tank.

Can you recommend a tank that isn’t too large/expensive but that will accommodate a couple of plants, 1 fish, and has a heater?

Thank you for all the great info! I want to be a good fish mom to this little guy.

I’m not sure if you’re still in the market for a tank, but if so, the Penn Plax Vertex is a decent budget-friendly entry-level tank. A second option would be the MarineLand Contour . Most tanks do not come with a heater, so you’ll have to purchase that separately.

I wasn’t doing enough vacuuming or water changes or quarantining new fish or logs. petco pfff. He had like no fins left trying everything, finally Ampicillin to the rescue. Back to norm. I’ll try a java fern, and some silk plants. I have bare bottom tank though I don’t want build up. How do you vaccum sand? What best for betta, boiled Sea Sand?

also I don’t know about the blue LED nightlight. He only sleeps when its dimmed all the way barley to the point about to flicker. Out of all the blogs, post, Aquarium shops say Im still not convinced. The darker the better.

The darker is the better and a blue led light is the best but don’t leave it on all day.

Help? We have a red half-moon named Swimmy, and two snails, and we’ve been doing a lot of research to get the water perameters correct in his hydroponic tank, but it’s not really working. The pH is too high, and based on what I read, peat moss in a filter bag sounded like a nice natural option, but it didn’t change anything. What IS different today is an ammonia spike! I pulled the bag immediately, but don’t know whether that’s the cause. One of our snails isn’t doing great, so I’m preparing to do a partial today and take a whiff of the snail and make sure he’s not dead. (Would explain the ammonia, if he’s dead. But I won’t sleep tonight if I killed the snail.) I’m almost ready to toss these plants (which I actually love) and buy a filter (which they’re supposed to replace) but I’d really like ideas if anyone has any? I don’t want to wake up to poor Swimmy in 2.0 ppm ammonia anymore.

Hi Allison – my apologies for the delay in my response, your message got hidden. The fastest way to reduce ammonia is to do a partial water change and add in new conditioned water. Plants won’t replace a filter, but they definitely do help. What size tank are you using? If it’s less than 5 gallons, ammonia can build up fast. Also, make sure your test strips are accurate by testing some water that you know has 0ppm.

Hello Bryan, I have a betta in a 2.5 gallon and he seems quite happy. But he seems bloated, and I stopped feeding him for a couple of days, but it hasn’t gone away. By the way I use pellets. Also, he has 2 silver strips of color on his red fins, is that normal? Thanks.

You could try feeding him a pea, boiled in water for a few minutes, and then remove the skin before feeding. Also getting him to flare can sometimes induce pooping. Fast for a couple more days and see if things improve.

My betta is very weird at sometimes. I’ve had him for around 4 months, and I have him in a 3.7 gallon tank with one soft plastic plant and a tall structure for shade– I have a heater, and a filter (my last betta had a 4 gallon tank without a filter and it died, even when I was assured by Petco that everything was fine.) but lately the tank has been getting dirtier a lot faster. At first I only had to take out about25% of the water about every two weeks, but now every week I have to clean out his whole tank, take him out, and scrub everything to ensure it is clean. And my betta seems fine but when I clean he immediately gets lethargic and tends to float on the bottom of the tank before I take him out.

Am I doing something wrong? Or am I just extremely inexperienced and paranoid?”

Bettas like consistency, so any abrupt changes in water parameters or temperature can cause a lot of stress and potential for sickness or disease as the immune system is stressed. If your tank is getting dirty faster, check the last time you’ve changed your filter media. Make sure you’re doing it on a regular basis per your specific filter’s instructions. Also, do the 25% water changes more frequently so you aren’t doing such abrupt changes to the water parameters. If it’s green algae, you’ve had the light on too much. If it’s brown algae – not enough. If it’s food or other debris, try using a turkey baster or aquarium gravel vacuum to keep things clean without the need to do 100% changes so often.

I forgot to tell you that my Betta doesn’t poop, or at least I haven’t seen him poop, all I see is thrown up balls of the food that I give him. I have no clue of why he does this and he’s been doing this since day one, I’ve had him for 8 months. And also, I’ve read that u should do partial water changes, but my mom always says oh he’s tough, he can go months without a water change, so we haven’t been doing as much. We do a full change every 2 months. Should we be doing partial water changes? Btw our tank is a 2.5. My last question: on the edge of his fins, it’s completely clear, is that normal? If you could please get back to me, u would be very helpful, thanks alot.

It’s very rare to see a betta fish poop, so that’s not surprising you haven’t. Yes, you should be doing several smaller ~25% water changes weekly. The clear edges may be new fin regrowth.

We got my son a halfmoon betta on Friday. After a few hours his color started coming back from being stressed. The next day he was bright, ate his pellets (we give him one in morning and one at night) and starting coming to the front when I’d come in the room and talk to him. It’s now Monday and I’ve noticed that he doesn’t go to the bottom. If he does it seems like a chore to do so and then he’ll just stop swimming and float back to the top. Also while he is at the top he’ll tend to keep his front part straight and then let back half float up sideways. Is that normal? The ph and water temp are good. I’ve had other fish before but never a betta. Thanks!

Betta fish normally occupy the top half of their habitat, however the floating issues are concerning. You’re not feeding him a lot, but he could still be bloated from constipation. Try soaking the pellets in some tank water for a few minutes before adding them in if he eats the pellet as soon as it hits the water. Also, you could fast him for a day or two and see if things improve.

Thanks for responding! We fasted him then gave him 1/4 of a pea. He doesn’t seem to be floating as much, but is still at times. He has started going down to the bottom of the tank more to the hide outs we gave him. Almost looks like he gets under and then the hideout keeps him from floating back to surface. Still a chore to swim down but is getting better. He still has a little bulge on the back end where I think the swim bladder is. Should we fast him in another couple days?

Feed him less for now, and only consider fasting again if things worsen. That’s great to hear he’s doing better!

How are you? Since I am new to take care of betta fish. I want to ask, I have a 10 gallon tank with a divider. There digital thermonitor its at 77. 9 F, but my glass thermo says it at around 73-74 F. And on the 10 gallon tank. I use tap water and condition it as well. but the water testing strip and the total hardness of the freshwater is hard at 150 and the pH water is alkaline. It is safe to put my betta fish into the tank???

Hello Bryan. This is gonna be kinda sad, just a fair warning. This is in regards to my brown (I bought him this way) male betta fish named Merlin. I love him dearly. He is in a 3 gallon tank and is only a year old. He is also my second betta to have owned (my first was Rainbow and he lived 5 years). I keep a regular cleaning and feeding schedule and he used to be very lively. (I don’t have a typical day and night schedule as he would flare and get upset when I turned off than light). I rescued him from walmart because he had an AWFUL case of fin rot and had been there 3 months. (Nobody wanted him because he was brown).

He’s been battling on and off several infections since we brought him home and now suddenly has pine coned scales on one side of his body towards his head. When I moved him to a hospital tank (he lives alone btw) he had blood coming from under the pine coning. He is quite lethargic and has trouble swimming now so I lowered the amount of water significantly to help him not have to work so hard. I’m very very worried about my baby. Please reply soon. And I’m also wondering if euthanasia would be best for him if it is dropsy… Thank you.

Giving him a better life is very heartwarming Susan, and unfortunately sometimes a lot of damage has been done that will shorten their life spans from previous poor care. Dropsy isn’t always fatal, but it’s certainly not good. If you notice he is struggling a lot and is lifeless, then you may decide that is no quality of life for him and opt for euthanasia to end any suffering. The most humane way is using clove oil.

Hi, my Betta Fish has little tattered fins. He eats like normal, still very active, and I have no sharp plastic plants just silk. Do you know what this could be?

Sounds like a mild case of fin rot.

Hey Bryan, after a while, fishy’s(my bettas name) head has been slowly turning white, his color is red and most of his face has been losing its color, and turning white, and I know it’s not ich because there’s not small circles. I have no idea why it’s happening. It mightjust be natural since my other Betta slowly turned orange. But I’m not sure.

It could be natural if his personality is still the same and he’s eating normally and otherwise healthy. If he’s slowly dulling in color then it can be a sign of stress.

Wal-Mart is selling betta fish they are placed on a dark shelf and the containers they are in are placed on top of one another They have to live in dirty water and no one even knows that they are even in the store I have bought several because they are in such bad shape I bought one he was suffering from bloat but I could not save him I returned him to Wal-Mart dead in his container to let them know these fish are sick. What is the answer to this abuse? Wal Mart continues to sell them. I have spoken to the head of the pet department and brought it to the attention of other people employed there. They work in the store and did not know they sell Bettas. What can a person do?

It’s very aggravating and I agree with you. I’ve seen them first-hand at several local Wal-Marts in my area in similar condition. One thing is to discourage people from ever buying them so they won’t re-stock them and will discontinue selling them if it’s not profitable. Another option would be to start a Change.org or other similar petition.

Do you need to have an oxygen blower, or aerator for a betta fish?

It’s not required, but it can aid their overall health. Betta fish can get oxygen from the water through their gills, or more commonly by gulping air at the surface of the water by using their labyrinth organ. Live plants or an aerator help to place oxygen in the water for intake through the gills.

Hi, I’m planning to buy a betta fish and I was just asking if it is fine to keep it with a filter sponge as my tank is small for the other filter types.

Yes, you can. They are actually preferred over filters with stronger currents for bettas.

Hello again Bryan, sorry to bother you. So, fishy has definitely been less bloated than before and is making progress. But I have a question, so my filter is kinda strong, but kinda not, but at times, he swims under the filter and looks at the place where the fresh water comes out, and of course he gets pushed downward, but then he goes back and does the same several times, then goes away, this happens occasionally, maybe 5 times a week, do you think he’s just being himself? I’m not sure Because I know bettas don’t like currents. Sry if I’m just being extremely paranoid, I am a new beginner at this stuff, so I don’t know much, lol, thanks again.

If the filter is blowing him around the tank and he has to swim furiously to get to the surface for air or just around the tank, then it’s a problem. If he occasionally is curious and gets pushed down by the water entering the tank, that’s no big deal.

Should you have a background on the tank? If so, how many sides and what kind? I have a 5-gallon tank with plants of varying size, rocks and driftwood hideout in the tank as well as heater/filter.

That’s normally a preference unless you find that your betta is constantly flaring and being aggressive to his own reflection. If that’s the case, it may be necessary to reduce stress. Just the back is ideal unless you want further protection from sunlight near a window, then the sides can be ideal as well.

Hi there! I am very new to betta care and have a couple of concerns about my new buddy Sushi. He is a beautiful black orchid male (I think he is the product of some mixed breeding as I do not know if he’s a veiltail or not). I just got him last week and the first couple of days wer going great as he was eating and exploring his surroundings. After doing a 20% water change on Sunday he started to change. He darts back and forth at the front of the tank and hasn’t eaten since Sunday! I was giving him small amounts of the Omega One freeze dried brine shrimp for 2-3 days as he started to spit out his Tetra Betta Plus pellets. He came with some fin curling when I got him but its starting to get a bit worse in conjuction with the not eating. I originally thought he was stressed and am in the process of adding a new filter but I am also considering taking this out to decrease stress. His water parameters are at: PH: 7.0 Nitrate: 0/20 PPM Nitrite: 0PPM Ammo: 0.5 (went up from yesterday) If you have any advice pls help!

Did you treat the new water with water conditioner? Also, your chlorine is at 0.5 and should ideally be at 0.0ppm which can be improved by doing another 15% water change and measuring again. Also, is your tank heated? Cold water can lead to stress and health issues.

Hi there! Update: I figured out that he actually has fin rot, it looks like we’re in the moderate stage as I have been following your advice on the fin rot tab. It was difficult to tell as he is black with iridescent coloring. I was following your advice and doing the water changes but that didn’t seem to help too much.

I’m hoping I caught it early on and am able to help him feel better! Should I be adding any plants or decorations to his quarantine tank?

Also: I do have a heater and the water is pretty constant at 78, I use the tetra betta safe water conditioner as well!

Thank you again for your help!!

Oh ok, glad you are working to correct that, and thank you for the additional details. You can add a couple decorations, plants, or a leaf hammock, that’s a better habitat than emptiness.

Just have to say, I love this website! Upgraded 1 betta tank from 1.6-gallons to a 5.2-gallon aquarium, will be upgrading the kids’ betta tank as well!! So far Perry seems to like the extra space, hoping Luke does as well! Thank you for the information.

That’s awesome! P.S. you spelled your name wrong 😛

I just bought a beautiful burgundy Betta. Not sure about it’s sex. How do I find out? I bought a 2.8L glass bowl and planter with LED base lamp whic doesn’t have a lid. Im readin the info on this site and now I’m not sure if my purchase was right. I should have bought a bigger tank with a lid instead. What can I use as a lid?

You can learn how to tell if it’s a male or female on the anatomy page. Yes, I would have purchased a larger tank and one with a lid. You will be very sad if your betta jumps out and dies that way. If you have a piece of plastic, you can drill holes lots of holes in it for air, that could work temporarily until you get a new habitat.

My betta fish has what looks like a little ball below his chin and I whisked it away. Today there’s another one but smaller. What’s wrong?

I just purchased a beautiful Betta and have a 3 gallon tank. Does the filter noise bother or stress them out?

The noise will not bother them. The only thing you need to be concerned about is the filter’s flow rate, and whether it puts out a current that is too strong for a betta fish.

I am setting up a 3.5 gallon tank for the first time. I was planning to put API stress coat to dechlorinate the water, and API stress zyme. Do i still need to run a fishless cycle, or is it ok to skip if I get the water tested before I introduce the fish? If so, where do I get the ammonia to run a fishless cycle?

It’s always better to establish and cycle the tank prior to introducing a betta, however, you could use a quick-start product to introduce beneficial bacteria immediately.

I just love all this information. It is very helpful. I refer to this website very often.

I am a proud owner of a beautiful turquoise Super Delta Betta. I am having him for a week and he seems to already recognizes me. I had one 10 years ago and it was red Spade tail. Now I’m wondering should I put some live plant in it to keep the ammonia level low. I live in India and here average day temperature is 33°C and night temperature around 28°C. So I’m not having a heater. The pet shop owner said not to use any filter , just some dechlorinator and ph modulator which is also antifungal. Now help me if that’s ok or not . My fish is a happy fish, he swims all around the bowl , eats pellets when I give . He poops good too. He gets natural day/night cycle. And he can recognize me. So help me please.

Hi, Ranjan that’s great. Adding live plants is always a great idea to help reduce waste (ammonia) and oxygenate the water too.

What would be good for a 3 gallon fish bowl. I’m confused with so many information everywhere.

Hi Bryan I am taking really good care of my new Betta. I’m feeding her blood worms 2 times a week & Betta flakes. And fasting her once a week. I’m even making her a feeding schedule. Am I doing the right thing? Thank you, Tammy

Sounds like you’re doing a great job!

Hi Bryan! I am new to betta fish and have just purchased a round AA Deco o aquarium for my betta which has a built-in LED light. When I turn it off at night time, the light rotates different ‘dull’ colours such as red, green, pink, blue etc. From the research, I have found that ideally, no light at night is best for their health. The lights are definitely nowhere near as bright as the daytime light. Is this okay for my betta? Or should I be trying to cover up the light with tape over the night time?

Hi Alesha – even though they are dull, I would unplug it or cover it up for the night.

Hi! I just got my Betta fish today and he has yet to go in the tank. I got him at PetSmart and is fully healthy. There is very little information about feeding them Betta flakes, so how much should i give him? I have brine shrimp that i use to feed my fish in a different tank, so i will give him some of that as well. I only have a 1 gallon tank with one plant, though i will get more. Will he be okay with that? I am already very attached to Tempest, as i have named him, and I want to keep him alive and stress free. Now i am worried i got the wrong tank. This is my first time owning a Betta fish and i just want to do it right, as i love fish.

Hello Angelina – yes you will need to upgrade the size of the tank to a minimum of 2.5-gallons. With that 1-gallon tank, when you place decorations or plants inside, you are displacing the water volume further to far less than 1-gallon. That is not a suitable permanent long-term habitat for Tempest to remain healthy in, and you’ll also need a heater to maintain the right temperature. Betta fish flakes are okay to feed, usually 3-4 flakes per feeding, although I don’t prefer flakes and recommend a high-quality pellet instead.

I have a heater in my fish tank but not one that I can control. I just have it hooked inside the tank and plug it in. I have a thermometer and often it reads somewhere in the 80’s or 90’s and then I have to unplug it. It is a small tank-don’t know exactly how big-less than 5 gallons. Is there a specific type of heater I should be using or should I not use one at all? I don’t think it goes less than 65.

Hello Kathy – I recommend getting a heater that has a built-in thermostat so it shuts off at 78 degrees Fahrenheit and turns on when it goes below that. This way you don’t have to worry about the water getting too cold or too hot. That is very dangerous for your betta.

So I am a new betta fish owner. I have been doing research for months before I started college, so I could have a little friend with my while I started my journey. I have had A for about two weeks now and all seems to being going well. However, I was wondering what is the proper/easiest way to do water changes on a 5gal tank and when do they need to occur? I have done about a 1/4th change since getting him. What are the signs needed to look out for. It doesn’t appear that there is any algae growing in the tank. Can I just use a turkey baster (one just for the tank)? Also, what is the white debris/bubbles in my tank? Is that normal from the filter? Or is it just debris from feeding him freeze dried food?

Hello Frances and A! The easiest way is to use a siphon vacuum and a small trash can or 5-gallon bucket to have the water flow into. You should be doing roughly one 20-25% water changes per week and a full change only as necessary. The best way to tell how the water is, or what to look out for, is ammonia building up which is invisible and you’ll need to use aquarium water test strips. For bubbles, if they are on the surface of the water, that sounds like your betta made a bubble nest.

i bought a 3 gal tank for my beta (the size seemed right for it’s location) but the only one i could find in my price range had a color changing light that emits the air bubbles too. Do the lights stress the beta and should i turn the light off at night even though it will turn off the air bubbler? He seems very happy but thought i should ask.

This is my first beta and am new to the obsession fish club. Thank you in advance.

Betta fish need a normal day and night cycle. Turn off the light at night, even if it turns off the air bubbler. For the lights, all betta fish are different, if he seems happy and is not hiding constantly when they are on you should be fine.

Wonderful info. I feel so sorry for the poor Bettas I see in pet stores stuck in those bowls, so many of them. Do they need to be the only fish in one tank, or are there certain fish that they can cohabitate with that they won’t attack?

Yeah, they are temporary housing Rita because of their aggression towards their species and other brightly colored or long finned fish. They can be peaceful and live with select tank mates depending on their temperament. Unfortunately, most big box pet stores aren’t willing to provide that level of care and habitat options. Recently, at my local Petco I did see a female sorority tank with about 10 females in it.

I really want a beta fish! The information I found here is extremely helpful, but I was wondering what a preferred list is for tanks, filters, heaters, and such. I also wanted to know what water cycling is (I’ve never owned a fish before) and the beta fish at the local Walmart seem very..unhealthy. I don’t know if it would be safer to buy one at petsmart or the Walmart to try and save the life they have left. Any suggestions?

Hi Paxx – I am in the process of working on guides for equipment, sorry they aren’t up yet! Water cycling refers to the nitrogen cycle, and partial water changes are just removing a portion of the tank’s total volume. If I were you, I would not purchase on from Wal-Mart – stick to a place that cares for them better. Not only will you not be supporting a store that doesn’t care for them right, but you will also be ensuring your betta will be healthy and live a long time.

Hi! I’m fairly new to betta keeping. I’ve mainly bought older fish from Petco so they can live their last few months in peace. Recently though, I thought it would be good to buy baby bettas and make a sorority. I’ve already had a male and female baby betta. When the male died, that’s when I decided to make the sorority. So I went to Petco and bought three more female baby bettas. I’ve had them in there for a few months now, low flow filter, 50 watt heater, and tons of silk plants. Recently, the first baby betta I had bought died. She had stopped eating. I figured she just didn’t like the food but she wouldn’t eat anything. I put her in her own smaller tank, which helped the first hour or so she was in there. I had bought tons of new food for her to try but she kept spitting everything out and eventually stopped trying to eat. She stayed on the ground which wasn’t uncommon for her, but she just seemed to stop trying. Again, she was only about two months old. I did a 100% water change just in case it was a contagious illness. Fast forward a couple days later and I noticed one of my other bettas had a fungal infection. I put her in her own tank and did ANOTHER 100% water change. I went out and bought medicines to treat it and she died a couple hours later. I treated the original tank, which is ten gallons. I am worried about my last two betta fish, They’re acting a little weird. One of them isn’t eating as much and the other keeps flaring and clamping her tail. I guess I’m asking if you have any suggestions as to why this is happening? I tried to give you all the details without writing you an essay lol. I also have a couple of panda corys in there that they seem to get along with very well .I don’t think they are the reason for this as I took all the necessary steps to avoid disease and sickness before I added them into the tank. All the water parameters are in check. I keep the heater at 79F because my room stays pretty cool in the winter so I keep it there so their water temp doesn’t drop too drastically. I plan on moving them to a 40 gallon once I get the filter for it but I don’t want to risk the last two dying. I hope to get more soon if these last. Thanks in advance for your time!

Typically, betta fish at Petco are around 6-12 months old so they should have a lot of life left in them. I’m not sure how old the baby bettas you received are, however, babies have weaker immune systems and should not really have tank mates or be in a sorority until they have matured. They are stressed easily, which can lead to sickness, and should not be in a tank that’s larger than 3-gallons either until they have matured. Please look up baby betta fish care.

Thanks so much! I’ve been searching relentlessly about why this might be happening and I’ve never heard anything about why baby bettas should not be in a community tank. I figured they would be more comfortable around each other if they grew up together as well. I never thought about them having a weaker immune system either. Thank you

Love your website

Had a Golden Betta fish for 3-1/2 years. Missed him. I always thought he liked to watch TV. At least maybe the changing lights. Just received a Crowntail Betta, blue, love his tail spread out. Noticed a brown spot on top of nose and down the side that I had not noticed before, but then he was always hiding. Had him just a week and he is swimming about now, seems healthy. Could this be his natural color or a skin problem? Have not read your comments before so wonder if you touch on their skin problems. Thanks

When you pay closer attention to your betta, sometimes you see things that may or may not have been there before. With proper care, it’s also common for a betta’s colors to change or become more vivid. Keep an eye on it, but it sounds like it’s just coloring.

I put my male and female betta fish into the same tank and put a wall up between them, when I came back a few hours later I noticed my female had somehow gotten over the my males side. When I moved her back i noticed neither of the fish had torn fins and there was no eggs anywhere to be found they just swam around peacefully together and I am very lost. Can you help me better understand what has just happened?

Betta fish are very clever and great jumpers. My best guess is that the female jumped over the divider to get to the male, if there was any space at all between the divider and the lid. This is also possible if there was any space at any side of the divider and glass as well. You are very lucky that no aggression or fighting occurred during the limited time they were together.

Hello, I have a beautiful betta in a 5.5 gal. tank with no tank mates. He has a heater, filter, hideouts, two silk plants, and one live plant. I’ve had him for about a week now. He’s active and eats well. I’ve been testing his water using 6-1 test strips (before adding him to the tank and before and after his first 20% water change today) and everything is perfectly in range except for his GH and KH. I did a lot of reading before setting up his tank and I’ve read that the GH needs to be 25ppm or lower and the KH needs to be 80ppm or higher. Right now the GH has been a steady at 75ppm and the KH has been steady of 40ppm. How can I lower the GH and raise the KH? Should I even worry about this since he seems to be happy and active?

Your GH reading at 75ppm is okay for a betta fish. The KH buffers the pH and affects how easily it can cause it to fluctuate, so bad would be 0ppm. Fish can adapt, and generally people cause more harm trying to get a “perfect” number and causing constant swings and abrupt changes in parameters. If you really wanted to adjust the KH, they do sell products to increase it.

Can I house less than 4 female bettas together? I plan on housing 2-3 females in a 10 gal tank. Is this a bad idea?

Less than 4 is not recommended for a sorority.

My daughter works at Kindercare day care. The management decided the rooms needed living things in them and put a betta in a bowl in her room. Maybe 1/4-gallon tank, no decorations or heat, just an empty bowl. We bought a new tank with some live moss balls and a tiny little cave for it. But the problem is, it has to be on the filing cabinet where there is no access to an outlet for a heater. It’s really frustrating. I’ve looked around for a battery powered heater, but can’t find anything. Does such a thing exist? We both feel bad for the poor guy and want to help him. Thank you.

Very thoughtful of you and your daughter to improve the care for this betta. I haven’t come across any battery operated heaters, but is there an option to run an extension cord to the heater from a nearby outlet?

Hi Bryan, My beautiful male betta has a white spot on his left eye that seems to be a bit fuzzy.. What is it and how do I get rid of it for him? He is very active and is otherwise very healthy. Thank you, Diane

Sounds like a fungal infection. You can visit the diseases page, or look into a product called API Fungus cure if you can confirm it’s that.

I read this article and other and have set up the tank and water properly with all the accessories and appliances needed. When should I put my Betta in the tank? I hear I should let the filter run for a bit, but it’s been a few hours and the water is a comfortable temperature. Should I go ahead and start to acclimate him?

The ideal scenario is to cycle the tank to fully establish a stable nitrogen cycle before the addition of any fish. This can take weeks and most novice hobbyists simply don’t have the patience, or buy the betta the same day they buy the tank. If you skip the cycling, I recommend at the very least using some quick start healthy bacteria solution and then acclimating them in slowly.

Hi Bryan, you have an awesome site! I set up my 5 gallon Betta Tank a couple days ago with a filter and heater. I added a bacterial supplement and it should cycle in the next week or two. I plan to do weekly water partial water changes, but I’m unclear about how often to clean the decorations. Monthly or weekly? In hot water for a cycled tank? I have a wide plastic plant with many wide leaves and several medium -large size stones. Thanks!

Thanks Donetta! Clean the decorations as necessary but monthly should be ideal if your tank is otherwise clean and free of algae. They can be rinsed under hot hot tap water and left to dry after. I also keep a soft bristled tooth brush for aquarium decor cleaning too for those nooks and crannies.

Hi! I am inheriting a betta, he will be staying in a 20 gallon heavily planted tank. My curiosity is about your comment on aquarium salt to keep fins healthy- I’ve not heard of that before, but I already have some, as I keep brine shrimp separately, so adding it is easy to his water enough. How much should I add for the tank size? I feed the brine shrimp by using a dropper to suction them from their own water, so a very small amount of salt water will already mix into his water-is that enough to make a difference? Is this a routine practice, or should I only do this if he displays stress or discomfort? Is adding salt problematic for any of the plants (anubias, java moss, water sprite)?

There are two schools of thought on it where some swear by it (including the International Betta Congress) and some prefer not to use it. With that said, it’s totally up to you and isn’t required. I have personally found that it does keep my fish healthy and I rarely have a betta get ill. For general maintenance I use 1/2-teaspoon per 1-gallon of water. If you wanted to go another health-promoting route, you could use Indian Almond Leaves. Salt can be problematic for certain live plants and certain tank mates who don’t tolerate slightly brackish water.

Is “Natural Rapport’s Gravel Cleaner” good to use in a 6 gallon aquarium?

You can use this product or others like it as long as you properly dose it for 6-gallons. I would do less than the amount for 6-gallons to account for the tank not being 100% full and the water being displaced by gravel, plants, decor, fish etc. Understand that products like these, however, do not replace actually vacuuming the substrate and doing water changes – but they can reduce some of the waste build up and how often these actions are needed.

I have had 2 betta fish one lived for 1 month and did fine until I had an ammonia flare up and the other I only had for 8 days. He never came out from hiding except to eat but he would eat only one pellet of food he would also wedge himself in a split part of a moss ball I need help on what to do and fast. He did not show signs of being ill and his colors were bright for the second one.

An ammonia flare up can be from using a habitat that’s too small, or from not having a proper nitrogen cycle established. The second one sounds like potential stress or water that is too cold. The ideal habitat would be 5-gallons, filtered and heated with one or two 20% partial conditioned water changes per week. If you aren’t going to wait the several weeks for the nitrogen cycle to establish before adding a betta to your tank, then at least use a beneficial bacteria supplement and let the tank run for at least 48 hours.

Hello, I have a red crowntail betta purchased 6 months ago. He had, and still has, a metallic bluish-silver spot on his flank. (It is more chalky looking now than shiny, though.) Recently, more of this coloration has appeared in tail fins, I assumed as result of color-enhancing food formula. However, one tail patch appears thickened, almost lichen-like, and kind of shrivelled at edges: these patches do not look like any skin disease photos I’ve ever seen, though, and he acts perfectly healthy. Please let me know your opinion (have photo, but don’t see where to attach it). Thank you!

Fin regrowth doesn’t always look 100% the same as the original fin and can be folded over. Based on what you said, it does sound like color-changing and regrowth and not an ailment, but you’re welcome to send me an email at [email protected] if you’d like.

what water treat ment is best sugjested for bettafish

Hi There. I’ve recently bought a blue male dragonscale delta tail. I choose him because he greeted (no flaring) me at the ‘glass’ everytime I got close. I have him in a 2.5 gallon tank (treated water, tested at PetSmart, slow filter, heater made for this size tank, thermometer, hammock, wisteria plant, moss ball, smooth glass beads). His tank is plastic and hexagon shaped. I can see his reflection in it, as can he. He spends 90% of his day flaring at himself, diving aggressively down to the floor, and then going up for air. The rest of his day is spent resting on the back wall either near his heater or behind the filter, with an occasional swim through. He sleeps at night on the bottom. My question is: Is this plastic tank causing him undue stress? I am going to upgrade him to a 5 gallon glass eventually, but based on his behavior, do I need to upgrade him sooner than later? Will he have the same reflection issues in the glass tank?

Constant flaring can cause a lot of stress, and should subside after a few days when they get used to their new territory and habitat. If it doesn’t you may need to reduce the reflection. You can purchase a fish tank backdrop image (scenic underwater photo) that you can tape to the back to reduce the amount of glare and cause of reflection. If you keep your aquarium near a window the light may be hitting the tank just right to cause a reflection too. Heavily planting the tank can also break up how the light is moving around the tank. This can happen with plastic and glass.

Thank you very much. I didn’t consider that. He is near a window. You and your site are very, very helpful and I am grateful for you. Thank you 🙂

Moved my betta from a 3 gallons rounded plastic aquarium to a five gallon rectangle glass aquarium. This new aquarium is much more reflective so I see him flare out pretty often. I picked up some suction cupped plants to stick up on the glass but he still seems to find his reflection in other areas. It’s only been a week in the new tank. Do you think he will get used to it or constantly fight his reflection?

He should definitely get used to his reflection within a week or so. If he continues constantly flaring you may consider taping an aquarium background image to the back of the tank to help prevent this. If your room is dark and the tank light is on, it will also provide a greater reflection. The same is true if the tank is near a window, the angle the light is entering the tank can make a difference.

So, I’m planning on getting a betta and I read everything on this page, but how long should I leave the tank with water but without the betta?

That will depend on whether it’s filtered or not. If it’s filtered and you fully establish a proper nitrogen cycle it could be several weeks. If you use a Quick Start product to introduce healthy bacteria into the tank immediately, it will be a lot sooner. You’ll need some test strips to monitor parameters.

Hi, I am planning on getting a betta fish and I have a 10 gallon tank that I have used for other fish in the past. Do I need to get a new tank because the space is too big for a betta or would it be okay? I just don’t know because no one recommends 10 gallon tanks for betta fish. The tank has a filter and a heater as well as a lid and a light.

I responded to your email, but yes a 10-gallon would be fine – although I’d recommend a longer horizontal tank than vertical for a betta if possible.

Hello Bryan

I fed my Betta last night. There was no symptoms or signs of any abnormality. His color was vibrant royal blue. In the morning I noticed his color was like metallic sky blue, the red stripes all gone. I immediately changed the water, treated him with salt solution and then put him back to his home with antibacterial drops. And in a few hours later he’s dead. I’m clueless and very sad. Can you please tell me what might be the reason

Ranjan it’s hard for me to give you an answer based on limited information and not experiencing it myself. A change in color, getting more vibrant for example, is no reason for alarm. Dulling colors or loss of color however indicates stress. The only thing I could guess on is all of the things you did in a short period of time may have caused additional stress. Bettas do not tolerate abrupt changes in water or water temperature well.

I’m 13 and i’m getting a Beta fish and I have to pay for it my self and I have like $40 to spend on it so what should I get for it. Also I have no idea of where to put it I have blinds and I leave them open during the day so I don’t fell like I need to get artificial lighting if I put it in the right spot. Also can you give me an idea a routine to take care of my fish like feeding, cleaning, check the waters temperature, ect. I would like to keep my fish for as long as possible. Also, I have two cats how would I get them to leave it alone besides shutting my door because I love having them in my room when I am home and I love playing with them. I don’t allow them to be in my room when I’m not home or when I am a sleep other than that can go in and out of my room as they please.

Hi Raven, that’s awesome you saved up your money to get a betta! You don’t want to leave the betta anywhere in direct sunlight as it can heat up the tank too quickly and also cause green algae growth. You will need a 2.5-gallon or larger tank with a lid/cover. A built-in thermostat heater. Water conditioning drops. Some betta fish pellets. Silk plants, non-sharp decor, and some gravel for the bottom. Feeding is 2-3 pellets, 1-2 times per day. Cleaning will depend on the size of the tank, but partial water changes ~25% with new conditioned water a couple times a week are very important to keep clean water coming in.

My son wanted a betta fish so I stumbled upon your website before I went out and bought one trying to find out how to properly care for one and what I’d need for it. So I’ve had him and the tank for over 24 hours now. I set up everything they way it said to, filter, heater, water conditioner. But today I’m noticing his waters a bit cloudy; not so crystal clear. I was wondering if this is normal or if I should be doing something else to clear it up?

Great job researching before you got the pet. Most times it’s the other way around. Cloudy water can be caused by not rinsing new substrate or filter media before it’s added to the tank?

thanks for the edvice

Comments are closed.

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Navigating the Journey: Your Essential Guide to Traveling with a Betta Fish
When arriving at your destination, you need to install your fish tank, substrate, and water before adding your filter, heater, plants, and décor. Turn on your tank's equipment and wait for the water to reach the same temperature that you usually maintain for your betta. Once complete, test your water for ammonia and nitrites.
How to Transport a Betta Fish: Step-by-Step Instructions
Fill a clean container with an appropriate amount of conditioned water. Make sure it is large enough to comfortably hold your betta fish. Float the container in the betta fish's current tank for about 15 minutes. This will allow the water temperature to equalize, preventing temperature shock.
How to Transport Betta Fish: Safest Tips & Tricks (Vet Answer)
Ensure your car is warm enough for your betta during the trip. An ambient temperature of around 25-28 °C (77-82.4°F) is recommended. Ensure your betta is secure in your car (it's best to have someone hold your fish). Drive slowly, and use routes without too many bumps or potholes.
Essential Tips for Traveling with Your Betta Fish
Travel Tank. A small, sturdy travel tank is essential for transporting your Betta fish. It should be secure, well-ventilated, and large enough for your Betta fish to move around comfortably. Pro Tip: Consider a travel tank with a built-in filter and heater to maintain optimal water conditions during the journey.
Travel/Vacation Tank
It comes with a carbon filter, but you can take that out and replace it with a big chunk of sponge if you want. Just a heads up, smaller tanks take more cleaning. Although I could stretch it to a once-a-week water change in that 2.5 minibow, my betta fish were happier when I did a 50% water change+gravel vaccuum twice a week.
Rules for Transporting Betta Fish on Planes and Trains
Betta fish are allowed through check-points, but it's always wise to check with the airline ahead of time since rules can vary. Remember, while the TSA handles the security side of things, it's up to the airline to decide how your betta fish will travel on the plane—whether in the cabin or in the cargo hold.
How to Safely Transport a Betta Fish: Tips for Stress-Free Travel
@ Midjourney AI Image Prompt: /imagine prompt:Create an illustration showing a person gently pouring water from a betta fish bag into a beautifully decorated aquarium, with a focus on the soothing and careful transition of the fish into its new environment. -v 6 -ar 16:9
How to TRAVEL with a BETTA.
I'd recommend floating, however, if the traveling water is 72 degrees and the new tank water is close to 82. How to float a Betta: - Put them in a plastic baggie. - Float the plastic bag, and Betta, in the new tank water for 15 minutes. - Once 15 minutes are up, net Betta out from bag and gently place into tank.
How To Travel With A Betta Fish The Right Way
Thermometer. Cloth and Paper Towels. Fish Food. Water Conditioner. Portable Aerator. To begin with, the small plastic container mentioned at the top of the list should be clear. That may seem like a no brainer, I just want to make sure that your poor betta fish has the option of seeing Vegas as you drive by….
How to Travel With a Betta Fish: Stress-Free Travel Guide
This stress-free travel guide aims to provide valuable information and guidance on how to ensure the well-being and safety of your betta fish during travel. By offering expert advice and practical tips, this article aims to equip betta fish owners with the necessary knowledge and tools to create a comfortable and secure travel environment for ...
Betta Fish Care While on Vacation
This is however not recommended because after about 5-6 days a betta fish starts to tap into its reserves and can enter starvation mode. Starvation increases stress levels and can lead to organ failure and disease contraction. If you're going to be on vacation for 2-4 days, it's okay to fast your fish during that time-period.
How to Transport a Betta Fish (Stress-Free)
Acclimate the Betta to the new water by floating its bag or container in the new tank for about 15-30 minutes to equalize temperatures. Then, gradually introduce small amounts of the new tank water into the bag or container over another 15-30 minutes. Once acclimated, gently release the Betta into its new home.
How to Transport a Betta Fish in a Car? Step-by-Step ...
A screw-on container can help prevent betta fish from getting out. Make sure to make some holes in the lid to allow fresh air to enter. Travel Tank. A travel tank is best for long trips that stretch on for days. These tanks are built for transportation. Thus, they have a lid with air holes in them for fresh air.
How to travel with a betta : r/bettafish
Put fish in a gallon bag of tank water. Any snails in another bag. I siphon my water into a 5g bucket to put my plants and wood in. I put my betta in a jar with half an Indian almond leaf and some floating plants, put a hole in the lid for air exchange. i fast him the day before.
10 Safe Betta Fish Tank Mates & Companions
Tank Size: 10-Gallons or More. The rasbora is a shoaling fish that prefers to live with a school of 5 to 6 in a tank. They're great tank mates for a betta as long as your tank is 10-gallons or more. This will give them plenty of space for necessary activity. Rasboras also love tasty brine shrimp just like the betta.
How to Transport a Betta Fish?
Fish can be a very sensitive type of pet. They can die in the wrong water conditions, in an overpopulated tank, or due to the stress of transport. Betta fish, a popular pet fish, is a particularly sensitive fish. Any good aquarist should know how to transport a betta fish, as this species is a popular beginner and veteran aquarist pet.
Setting Up A Betta Tank (The Right Way!)
TARARIUM Betta Fish Tank Filter 3 in 1 Filter & Air Pump for 1-15 Gallon Tank. The Tararium is a great little sponge-style filter that sticks to the side of your tank with suckers and makes virtually no noise except the trickle of water. The filter has a removable rain-style outlet that is a neat feature and can help add extra oxygen to the tank.
Betta Fish Care
Only remove your betta fish during 100% water changes. Monitor water parameters with test kits and strips. Keeping a betta's tank (ecosystem) clean is crucial to their health and happiness. As your betta consumes food, digests it, and eventually gets rid of it (poop!), it ends up in the tank's water.
Betta
How Many Betta Fish in a 10-Gallon Tank? Easily Calculate It. Betta Pooping: Things You Should Know. Dropsy in Betta Fish: Symptoms, Causes & Treatment. Best Algae Eaters For Betta Tank (For Different Gallon Ttanks) 9 Best Substrate For Betta: Expert Review & Buying Guide.
Motel' Betta
Many travellers enjoy visiting Gate of Love (Gate of the Sun) (4.1 km), Grot of Lermontov (2.8 km), and Gukasova Coffee Shop Bulding (2.8 km). See all nearby attractions. Pyatigorsk. Hotels. More. Motel' Betta in Pyatigorsk, Russia: View Tripadvisor's unbiased reviews, photos, and special offers for Motel' Betta.
BETTA (Goryachevodsky)
Betta, Goryachevodsky: See traveller reviews, user photos and best deals for Betta at Tripadvisor. Skip to main content. Discover. Trips. Review. INR. ... View prices for your travel dates. Check In. Mon, 23 Sept. Check Out. Tue, 24 Sept. Guests. 1 room, 2 adults, 0 children. Contact accommodation for availability. There are similar hotels ...
MOTEL' BETTA
Many travellers enjoy visiting Gate of Love (Gate of the Sun) (2.5 miles), Grot of Lermontov (1.7 miles), and Gukasova Coffee Shop Bulding (1.8 miles). See all nearby attractions. Pyatigorsk. Hotels. More. Motel' Betta, Pyatigorsk: See traveller reviews, candid photos, and great deals for Motel' Betta at Tripadvisor.
Betta
Many travellers enjoy visiting Gate of Love (Gate of the Sun) (4.1 km), Grot of Lermontov (2.8 km), and Gukasova Coffee Shop Bulding (2.8 km). See all nearby attractions. Goryachevodsky. Hotels. More. Betta in Goryachevodsky, Russia: View Tripadvisor's unbiased reviews, photos, and special offers for Betta.

How to Transport Betta Fish: Safest Tips & Tricks (Vet Answer)

The 2 Situations That May Require Transporting Your Betta

1. Transport to a Veterinarian

2. A Relocation

The 10 Steps for a Driving Relocation

1. Water Change

2. Stop Feeding

3. Move Day

4. Drain Tank

5. Pack Plants, Filter, and Substrate

6. Drive Slowly

7. When You Arrive

8. Reacclimate Your Fish

9. Monitor Your Fish

10. Seek Professional Advice

Further Reading

Latest Vet Answers

On the Move: Essential Tips for Traveling with Your Betta Fish

Preparing for the Journey: What You Need

Travel Tank

Food and Water Supplies

Emergency Kit

On the Road: Keeping Your Betta Fish Safe and Comfortable

Maintaining Water Quality

Feeding Your Betta Fish

Handling Stress

Arriving at Your Destination: Helping Your Betta Fish Settle In

Acclimatizing Your Betta Fish

Monitoring Your Betta Fish

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Plastic vs Glass Betta Fish Bowl: A Comprehensive Comparison

The Intriguing World of Betta Fish: Understanding Their Normal Behavior

Betta Friendly Plants: What Plants Are Good For Betta Fish Bowls?

The Perfect Balance: Understanding the Correct Betta Fish Water Parameters

Betta Tank Heaters: Advantages and Disadvantages

Navigating the Waters: Top Mistakes for First-Time Betta Owners and How to Avoid Them

Shedding Light on the Subject: How Much Light Should a Betta Fish Get?

A Touch of Care: Can You Feed Your Betta Fish by Hand?

Recognizing the Signs: Is Your Betta Fish Dying?

Betta Fish Care: Top Things Not to Do

What Other Fish Go Well With Bettas?

The Ultimate Guide to Changing Betta Fish Water: Aqua Vitae

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Miscellaneous

Choosing the Right Container

Guidelines for Air Travel

Tips for Train Travel

Security and Safety Measures

Health and Well-being Check

Legal and Ethical Considerations

How to Safely Transport a Betta Fish: Tips for Stress-Free Travel

How to Safely Transport a Betta Fish?

Preparing Your Betta Fish for Transportation

Selecting the Proper Container for Transit

Maintaining Water Quality and Temperature During the Move

The Journey – Ensuring Your Betta Fish’s Comfort and Security

Minimizing Stress Factors in Travel Environments

Timeframe Considerations for Short and Long-Distance Moves

Vehicle Settings and Placement for Optimal Betta Safety

Destination Arrival: Acclimating Your Betta Fish to New Surroundings

Steps for Gradual Acclimation Post-Transport

Monitoring Your Betta Fish After Relocation

Troubleshooting Common Issues During Betta Fish Transport

Addressing Water Quality Fluctuations on the Go

Emergency Measures for Unforeseen Betta Health Concerns

Class color betta fish Guideline Black base betta fish