trips to shiant islands

Visiting the Shiants

Just how easy is it to visit the Shiant Islands?

Located off the south east coast of Harris the Shiant Islands are remarkable difficult to get too. Unless you have your own mode of transportation kayak, boat, yacht visiting the Shiants is quite a challenge .

When we visited the Shiants we chartered a boat based in Uig, Skye. A private hire to take us to the Shiant Islands where we would stay for 4 days.

Shiant Boat Trips

Boat trips to the Shiant Islands are more common but still require effort to get to the pick up point and advance booking would be essential . Again you may have to charter a boat to get out to the Shiants

Isle of Harris Sea Tours (Harris)

Hebridean Cruises (Oban)

Hebridean Whale Cruises (Gairloch)

Boat to the Shiants licensed to take people to the shiants

• Stornoway are run by Charles Engebretsen on 01851 702304 or 01851 702303.
• Also Seumas Morrison, Tel: 01859 502007
• Cost approx £700 (2022)

Can we stay on the Shiant Islands

Yes , you can stay on the Shiant Islands. You will have to be self sufficient to do so. Leave no trace on this fragile island what you bring with you must leave with you.

We contact the owner Adam Nicolson (Dad to the current owner Tom) to obtain his permission to stay on the island (we asked as a courtesy as due to the Scottish Outdoor Access code permission isn’t really required). Adam recommened we visit and depart the Shiant Islands before the 1st of May ( lambing on the island).

Essentials we took with us on our amazing Shiant Islands camping trip

• Obviously a waterproof tent
• enough drinking water for 7 days on the Island (we don’t plan to stay this long but all depends on the weather)
• food (in tamperproof containers, birds, rats etc)
• stove, cutlery, bowls, cups etc
• sleeping bags, thermarest mattress
• camera , phone (full charge) for photographs (we don’t have phone reception. This will hopefully have improved)
• battery packs didn’t exist when we vist the Shiants. Now I would recommend a battery pack or two to charge your devices
• Warm Clothing
• Rainproof clothing (another key point is to expect four different types of weather in a day. Be prepared!)

Shiants Bothy

The bothy is a primitive one room hut or house on the Island. When we visit the Shiants there are still rats on the Island. We are happier to sleep in our tent which is of course rat proof . Now rats have been eradicated from the Shiant Islands so staying in the Bothy will be less of a problem.

Please contact Tom Nicolson on this email address ( [email protected] ). Consequently you now have to obtain a key to stay in the bothy (free) . Also you need to ensure the bothy is not already occupied. There is now an online calendar to check availability.

When we visit the islands there is a two person american film crew for the first few days.

Later, on the Sunday, a Cambridge radio buff group arrive and use the Bothy for a few hours.

Shiants Puffins -when is the best time to visit the Shiants?

We visit the Shiant Islands because we want to see the wildlife extravaganza which are the Puffins . Puffins are not on the Shiant Islands all year around. They come to the islands to breed , lay their eggs, raise their babies, Pufflings and then they depart.

The Puffins begin rafting off the islands in ever greater numbers until one day some silent message is given and the Puffins begin to land on the island. They then have to start excavating the old burrows or excavate new burrows. It is in the burrows where they lay their eggs.

We arrive on the Shiant islands on the 26th of April. The Puffins begin to land on the Shiant Isles on the 25th of April.

• Six weeks for Puffin eggs to be incubated
• Six weeks approximately for the Pufflings to fledge
• If food supplies are poor it will take the Pufflings longer to fledge

The Puffins could all have l eft the Shiant Islands by early August.

Generally the best time to visit the Shiants is between May and end of July.

Shiants Bird Life – What other birds might you see on the Shiant Islands?

When the puffins begin to land on the Shiant Islands the apex predators begin to arrive on the island. As a result expect to see Bonxsie s, a variety of Seagulls and raptors . All these birds will depart after their food source departs.

• Bonxsie (Great Skua) – predator bird
• White Tailed Sea Eagle – predator
• Golden Eagle – predator

Shiant Islands Owner

Tom Nicolson

Shiant Islands Book

Sea Room by Adam Nicolson is essential reading to those wishing to visit the Shiant Islands. Adam inherited the islands at the age of 21 and Seam Room tells the story of these magical islands. The human and feathered inhabitants who make the islands unique.

Shiant Islands Map

The Shiant Islands are comprised of three named islands.

• Garbh Eilean (rough island)
• Eilean an Taighe (house island) , which are joined by a narrow isthmus
• Eilean Mhuire (island of the Virgin Mary)

Where can we see the Puffins of the Shiants?

Garbh Eilean is where the amazing Puffin Colony is located.

Firstly to get to Garbh Eilean we cross the narrow isthmus from Eilean an Taighe.

Then scale the treacherous narrow sheep trod up the grassy high cliffs to the top of Garbh Eilean. (I was terrified)

Next cross over the summit of Garbh Eilean. (We see White Tailed Sea Eagle sitting on the top of the island)

Head towards the cliff edge which faces Harris. Here the Puffins nest and dig their burrows.

On the whole getting to the Puffin Gathering is quite a challenge if you don’t have a head for heights or are reasonble fit.

Is there drinking water on the Shiants?

Yes there is a spring on the Shiant isles but is a murky little seepage. Used by the various wildlife. We would strongly recommend you do not use this spring. For this reason bring all the water you might need with you to the Island.

Bedding for the nest

Been Digging

Beak with soil

Collecting buoys

Lambs on the Shiants

Climbing up from the Puffins

Puffin with dirty belly

Peek from a burrow

Porridge in the Bothy

Runrig system on the Shiants

View of the bothy and causeway

Top of the island

Sheer Cliffs

Climb up to see Puffins

Camera Crew Leave

Camping the Shiants

Bothy the Shiants

Take off Puffin

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Far-flung islands: Shiants & the Summer Isles 10-nights

Cruising past the Inner Hebridean Isles of Canna and Skye, head out into the Minch sea channel, a hotspot for humpback whales.  Leaving the dramatic beauty of high mountain horizons behind, the wild and enchanting Shiant Isles come into view, famous for breeding sea birds, a haunting history and stunning landscapes. Spend a day and night exploring the islands before putting to sea again to head east to the Summer Isles archipelago a group of 20 islands set in a landscape of outstanding beauty. We go ashore on some of the islands, with their fascinating history, rare bird species including arctic terns and red throated divers, otters and rare flora. We explore the dramatic rocks, caves and beaches of the outlying islands, all havens for wildlife.  Your vessel then takes a southerly course, visiting the very remote coasts of the north west highlands with the dramatic sea lochs of Loch Torridon, Loch Alsh, Loch Carron and Loch Hourn, enroute to the Sound of Mull and Oban

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20 May 2024

An absolutely unbelievable 10 day Cruise on the Elizabeth G - a great boat. The crew were fantastic and so helpful. The food onboard was 5 star. Stunning scenery with a real close up view of wildlife and fauna and flora. Birdlife on The Shiants was out of this world and Hebrides Cruises get you real up close and personal. As for sea life - Basking Shark, Dolphins, Minke Whales, Porpoise, Seal and much much more were seen on the trip. We would thoroughly recommend anyone who enjoys wildlife and the great outdoors to sign up for the adventure.

John & Margaret Adams

This was our third cruise with Hebrides Cruises, and like the previous two it was an excellent trip, and really good fun. The booking process was straight-forward, and the cruise itself lived up to expectations - the skipper and crew worked exceptionally hard to ensure we reached the target destinations by way of a calm passage, and the on-board wildlife guide was brilliant at spotting and identifying the many whales, dolphins, and birds seen on the way. The catering on-board was top-quality. I'd recommend a trip with Hebrides Cruises to anyone interested in the history and wildlife of the Hebrides. The award of 'Scottish Small Family Business of the Year 2023' was well merited.

Steve Lonsdale

Responses to my questions very prompt – even on Sundays! And very clear. The description of the cruise, the facilities on board, and what we could expect to encounter subject to weather and tides was spot-on.  Embarking on the boat was very easy. The scale of the harbour at Oban makes it easily found and accessible. The crew were instantly friendly, welcoming, and clear about keeping us all safe on board. Our luggage was stowed in our cabins with no fuss or effort on our part.  I was amazed how the skipper devised solutions which enabled us to meet our major expectations despite having to wait for seas to calm following a night of strong winds. Scenery was fantastic. Even the fog was atmospheric. Going ashore was always a joy, conducted with expertise by the crew, and being led by Hannah with her unlimited enthusiasm and expert knowledge was not to be missed. Anchorages every night were calm and peaceful. I slept extremely well!  The saloon was a convivial place at all times, especially after supper! The foredeck was great for spotting wildlife or admiring the scenery.  Do it!

Alasdair was excellent and informed us of his plans and why. We had a bit of a blow on the second and third days. Shelter was planned and then he made a long day to the Shiants which were wonderful.  I felt Perry had put a lot of thought into his meals. too much food but not a lot of waste. All 4 crew were excellent. Hannah's enthusiasm and knowledge, Craig's diligence and constant work were great.  This cruise was great because the Crewe and passengers all got on well in a gentle manner. The Crewe commented on this. Everyone was interested in the wildlife and I come from Skye so I loved looking at the islands from a different perspective. This cruise was great because the Crewe and passengers all got on well in a gentle manner. The Crewe commented on this. Everyone was interested in the wildlife and I come from Skye so I loved looking at the islands from a different perspective.

13 May 2024

Last year was our first, long awaited trip on Emma Jane. It was an amazing experience, over and above anything we could have hoped for. So on our return we booked this years cruise AND 2025. As skipper James said ‘ you need to do these things while still vertical’! Emma Jane is a beautiful, comfortable vessel to travel on from the well thought out cabins, comfy sofas and books in the salon and multiple outside viewing areas to look out for all the wildlife and scenery. Skipper Charlie found wonderful anchorages, dramatic scenery and safe clean places for the hardy swimmers. Arriving at the Shiants around the north of the islands was a real highlight. This approach allowed us to see the huge and dramatic basalt pillars, that dwarf those at Fingals Cave. Later, with perfect conditions, Charlie and Will ( Guide) took us on the rib to see the formations, caves and birds at really close quarters. Amazing! Will sort out the wildlife at sea and on land with great success. Highlights include both common and bottlenose nose dolphins who came to ride the bow wave. A lovely view of Minke whale. 3 white tailed eagles together on the eastern shore of Raasay and 8 in the sky as we sailed away from The Shiants. Will led us safely on shore trips that were adapted to the ability and wishes of the guests. This includes a dramatic hike up to Hallaig, the abandoned settlement on Raasay. Stunning views in all directions and a golden eagle viewed from above. Charlie (chef, not the shipper!) cheerfully cooked us up 3 lovely meals a day as well of cake for tea, using a great deal of local produce. I loved the fish dishes. She was ably assisted by equally smiley Jasmine, who looked after us, served us meals, made drinks and kept everything spotlessly clean and tidy. It felt as if the whole crew worked together as a well oiled team. I’ve seen it written before on reviews before, but if you are considering a trip with Hebrides Cruises - book it. Will and Sarah

Will and Sarah

22 May 2023

Beautiful anchorages and scenery. Fabulous trips and the crew were a wealth of local knowledge.  Excellent service and first rate care. Fresh, tasty and thoughtful menus throughout the trip.  Dont hestitate!

Stephen Lewis

All superb. Chris even took us to my favourite anchorage on Rona and loitered where I had once seen an eagle’s nest. My special wish was to see the Summer Isles after first looking down on them in 1974! They were as magical as I had thought they must be. Each day was organized to make the very best of what the islands can offer. Private facilities are very good, and I love “Sea Kelp” toiletries.  I really appreciated the new seating forward which was really comfortable. The crew all seemed to be very happy in their roles which made me feel comfortable with them. Hannah’s enthusiasm was infectious.  Don’t hang about, just BOOK if you can find a space.

15 May 2023

Had a wonderful time once again. Chris as skipper was great. He found lovely quiet anchorages each night, and was such a good egg in talking to Brian about ships every day! Lynsey was extremely knowledgeable about the wildlife, and took the time to explain about all sorts of flora and fauna, as well as wildlife. Vanessa, although her first trip, was so enthusiastic and worked really hard on keeping everyone happy. As always the food was excellent, and tried things I’ve never eaten before. All the crew need to be especially commended for their patience and politeness, we hope to back with you again soon. Have just got to save up the pennies! Thank you once again - loved it…. Barbara x

Barbara Corlett

23 May 2022

It was a wonderful experience, we have such respect for our lovely, calm and totally competent captain and appreciated his sense of humour.  Zoe was brilliant and Alice so sweet.  What to say about BIff?  A total star.  The food was magnificent. We visited the Shiants which was our main aim but we got so much from visiting the other small islands too.  The abundance of seabirds was fantastic, including four white tailed eagles in one sighting over the Shiants.  Who could have believed that a 1000+ Dolphins would join us between Canna and Tobermory.  The whole trip more than fulfilled our expectations.  

Prue Chalker

9 August 2021

Many thanks to Rob, Craig, Sian and Zoe, a wonderful trip on Elizabeth G. Super company, stunning scenery, great food what more could you ask for? We shall be back 2022. Already looking forward to it.

Alan and Yvonne Bower

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Dear Emma - A really wonderful trip to the Small Isles on the Emma Jane. In every respect it was first class. And so relaxed and friendly. Nothing was too much trouble. Great food. You even got some Guinness on board for me! And how nice to be provided with a packed lunch for our onward travel at the end. So many thanks to you and the crew for a lovely holiday in the Hebrides.

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• The Boat: The Enchanted Isle

Shiant Islands: The mini St Kilda

The shiant islands are situated 10 miles east of harris and are often referred to as a mini st kilda..

The Shiant islands are situated 10 miles east of Harris and are often referred to as a mini St Kilda. The Shiants provide one of the most dramatic examples of basalt rock pillars in Britain; similar to the rock formations found at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland and Fingal’s Cave on Staffa but even bigger! A private charter to the Shiants will show you 350-foot columns nestled among the northern cliffs. 

The dramatic black cliffs rising from the sea contrast with the island’s lush green vegetation, providing an incredible backdrop for an array of wildlife. During the summer months the grassy slopes play host to a huge colony of puffins as well as providing a home for other seabirds such as razorbills, guillemots, fulmars, kittiwakes, shags, gulls and great skuas. 

The waters surrounding the Shiants are famed for the legend of "The Blue Men of the Minch", who are said to have inhabited the underwater caves beneath the Sound of Shiant. Sailors were fearful of passing through this stretch of water as they believed that these mythical merman-type creatures would lure them to their deaths. 

The last record of human habitation on the Shiants can be found in the 1901 census, which details a total eight people living on the island. The eight residents left the island that same year, electing to move to Harris in favour of a less remote existence. 

In the 1920s, the Shiants were owned by the author Sir Compton Mackenzie, who looked upon them as his retreat from the world. In more recent times these islands were owned by Adam Nicholson, whose book, 'Sea Room' provides a comprehensive and fascinating record of everything that is 'The Shiants'.

More recently the Shiants have been in the headlines due to a two year project led by the RSPB, SNH & the Nicholson family, to eradicate the Islands of it's non native population of black rats. The rats were thought to have arrived on the Islands from a shipwreck and quickly made themselves at home gorging themselves on the abundant supply of eggs and chicks that arrives every summer. Early signs are that the project has been very successful and the first summer after a winter of baiting saw a very healthy puffin colony, the eradication of the invasive rats on the Shiant Isles will ensure safe breeding sites for struggling seabirds and allow the recovery and restoration of the island’s existing colonies, as well as encourage Manx shearwaters and storm petrels to breed there.

"St.Kilda - a dream come true! I loved this trip – it was a dream come true and I would highly recommend Seumas and Sea Harris." Tripadvisor review May 2018 Read Full Review

"I am immensely grateful to Seumas and the crew of the Enchanted Isle. Vic declared it one of the greatest days of his life! The place is extraordinary. " Bill Bailey - comedian, actor, author Read Bill's Blog

"A trip to St.Kilda was definitely one of the best trips in my life. I must reccommend Sea Harris - my experience is they are reliable, friendly, safe." Tripadvisor review September 2018 Read Full Review

Boat trips to St Kilda run three times per week between April and September, departing from Leverburgh harbour at 8am and returning around 7pm.

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The Enchanted Isles

Few have the privilege of visiting the remote and magical Shiant Islands. We make it possible for you. No other boat operator on mainland Scotland runs regular tours to the islands. We offer you a unique opportunity to experience the wild and rare beauty of the Shiants.

The Shiants are a group of small islands and rocky outcrops about four miles off the coast of Lewis and 28 miles across the Minch from Gairloch.

The islands’ coastline is stunning.

Cliffs, some more than 500 feet high, rise majestically above the sea. Dolerite columns on Garbh Eilean, one of the larger islands, are over 350 feet tall – comparable (some say even more impressive) to those around Fingal’s Cave on Staffa and at the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland.

Now uninhabited, the Shiant Islands are soaked in the myth and legend of earlier times. They are owned today by Adam Nicolson whose book, The Sea Room, is the definitive work on the islands, past and present. Adam Nicolson also maintains the Shiant Isles website.

The islands support massive colonies of seabirds – some estimates have put the number as high as 250,000.

Here you will find Guillemots, Kittiwakes, Fulmars, Skuas, Razorbills, Shags and many more.

In summer thousands of Puffins (pictured) breed in burrows on the slopes of Garbh Eilean. In winter the grassland on the larger islands is home to Greenland Barnacle Geese.

We take you on a three hour round trip aboard Orca 1 to the Shiant Islands*. On the voyage there and back there is a good chance of encounters with whales and dolphins. This is a rare and memorable experience available only through Hebridean Whale Cruises.

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• Stay on the islands
• Seabird Recovery Project
• History & Geology

The Shiants are a small group of islands in the Hebrides, in North West Scotland, four miles or so off the coast of Lewis and 12 from the northern tip of Skye, which lies almost due south of them.

The islands are one of the most important breeding colonies for seabirds in Europe, with around 10 per cent of UK puffins and 7 per cent of UK razorbills breeding here every year. The islands recently completed the Seabird Recovery Project (2014-2018), which now offers a great prospect for seabirds to establish new colonies, such as Manx shearwaters and storm petrels. Over the next few years, the abundance and diversity of the land bird populations will be investigated to observe their response to the changes. Monitoring of the flora and invertebrate communities will also take place to see how these communities adapt.

Keeping the islands open to visitors for the next generation...

The Shiant Isles Bothy Project

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SHIANT ISLANDS

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Stories My Suitcase Could Tell

An Afternoon Sail to the Shiants with Sea Harris

August 16, 2017 By Katie MacLeod 10 Comments

In the right light, the islands appear as a smudge on the watery horizon, grey marks on a pastel canvas.

In other, darker, moments, the islands disappear altogether, leaving you to wonder if they were ever really there at all.

I had seen these islands from the car window on the drive to Stornoway for most of my life, and yet it had never occurred to me to visit the Shiant Isles, these vanishing marks in the Minch. All I knew of the islands, occasionally visible where the sea meets the sky, was that they were home to both black rats, and the sheep transported there by crofters for fresh grazing.

As it turned out, even that sliver of information wasn’t entirely accurate.

The Shiants – known as Na h-Eileanan Seunta, or “the Enchanted Isles” in Gaelic – lie roughly four miles south east of the Isle of Lewis in the Minch, the waters that separate the Outer Hebrides from the Scottish mainland.

Over the course of twelve hundred years, the islands have been through the hands of multiple landlords, from the Vikings to author Sir Compton Mackenzie and beyond. And while the three islands and their skerries may be empty of people now, they were “continuously inhabited” until the start of the 20th century.

I knew none of this, of course, when I arrived at Tarbert harbour for an afternoon of sailing around the islands with local boat tour company, Sea Harris . In fact, my presence on the maiden voyage of their new RIB, Pabbay , was almost accidental. I had initially hoped to visit Scarp or Taransay off the west coast; the Shiants weren’t on my rader at all until Sea Harris got in touch to say they had space on the boat for this particular journey.

Did I want to join them? Of course!

The Minch is one of the wildest stretches of water in the British Isles, but you wouldn’t have known that on the July day we set sail. The harbour at Tarbert was like glass, smooth and glinting in the afternoon light as our crew, Seamus and Iain Angus, outlined the safety procedures and lifejacket instructions.

There were about eight of us on the RIB – my Mum and I from Lewis, a few couples from England , another couple from France – all claiming a spot at the open rear of the boat in an attempt to get the best views, and in my case, feel the sea breeze on my face. With Seamus at the helm and Iain Angus assisting, we sailed under the Scalpay Bridge a few miles from Tarbert and out into the open water beyond.

To our left were the hills of Harris, where I could make out the road to Rhenigidale, sharp and steep on the hillside. After about half an hour, with the Shiants still on the horizon, we detoured into Bhalamus Bay, at the edge of the Eishken Estate on Lewis.

A sea eagle was nesting nearby, but we failed to spot her. I wasn’t too disappointed, as we were also treated to views of the remains of the oldest settlement in Lewis. As Pabbay slowed to a stop, I let my mind wander. Would Bhalamus have been this remote in days gone by, or would it have been part of a thriving community connected by the sea? Now, at least, it felt a long way from anywhere, isolated and peaceful.

Leaving Bhalamus, we sped towards the Shiants, the islands hazy in the near distance between us and the mainland mountains.

And then all of a sudden – or so it seemed – we had arrived, easing past the Galtas, “the most sculptural of all the columnar formations in the Shiants… like a giant’s causeway that has been set adrift, afloat on the tide.”

This giant’s causeway reference, made by the former owner of the Shiants, Adam Nicolson, is not accidental. As Iain Angus explained to us as we sailed past the odd outcrops, the strain of rock found here in the Shiants is the same that rears its head above sea level at Fingal’s Cave in Staffa, off the west coast of Scotland , and again at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland.

The geological evidence was there on the north side of Garbh Eilean too, the largest of the three Shiant islands. I had to crane my neck skyward to see the top of these black basalt cliffs, columned walls that reach heights of five hundred feet. Further on there was a break in the cliff wall, known as the “Doorway of the Seals.” Seamus brought us halfway through the archway that framed our view of Eilean an Taigh across the water, and gave us a close-up of the dolerite rock itself.

The Shiants may be privately owned, but that doesn’t mean they are off limits to the public.

This is largely because of Scotland’s laws about the right to roam , but it’s also reflective of the owner’s attitudes. Adam Nicolson, who owned the Shiants before passing them on to his son, writes in the Sea Room that “Land – particularly land that is out on the edge of things, and particularly land that is a rich concentration of the marvels of the natural world – is to be shared.”

We saw the results of this in action as the RIB slowly moved alongside the dark basalt cliffs, where the heads of campers appeared above us at their edge, and again as we sailed around Eilean an Taigh, where yachts were moored in spots of shelter, and a tent was set up near the shore. I felt a strange sense of intrigue as I glimpsed these strangers getting to know the islands on foot – and made a mental note to return one day to do the same.

The islands themselves were mesmerizing – the basalt columns in rows, the natural arches that offered glimpses through the rock, the smooth grass of Eilean Mhuire – but it was the wildlife that made my jaw drop in amazement.

Seals lounged on outcrops of rock, appearing to all intents and purposes as if they were sunbathing. Cormorants, their wings outstretched, balanced nearby. And in the air around us, puffins, guillemots, and razorbills soared, flocks of them so dense they could have been strange moving clouds.

From the edge of Garbh Eilean, we rounded a corner into the shelter of the space between the three islands.

Seamus cut the engine at the base of a shattered cliff, where the birds were nesting in the cracks and hollows in their thousands; the chatter of their birdsong conversations reached us in Pabbay . Ten percent of the UK’s puffin population can be found in the Shiants, which the Royal Society for the Preservation of Birds (RSPB) calls “one of the most important breeding colonies in Europe.”

I lowered myself onto the floor of the RIB, almost at eye level with the surface of the water, and watched in silent awe as the birds swam, flew, and dived deep into the clear waters. The razorbills and chocolate-headed guillemots stayed close, unperturbed by our presence, but the puffins took to the skies, their fat, round bellies skimming the water’s surface as they tried to get airborne. I could have stayed there all day.

We sailed around the green slopes of Eilean Mhuire next, so-called because rumour has it a temple dedicated to the Virgin Mary once stood here. Then it was on to Eilean an Taigh, home to a small house with whitewashed walls and a red corrugated iron roof. The writer Compton Mackenzie of Whisky Galore fame refurbished the bothy in the 1920s, and while it’s now free to use for those who wish to make the journey here, there is no running water or electricity.

As we sailed past the sole place of human habitation, I finally learned the truth about those black rats I had heard of in passing, one of my only previous pieces of knowledge on the Shiants. The invasive rats had been here since a shipwreck in the 18th century, Iain Angus explained, and to stop them damaging the bird population, the RSPB set up the Shiant Isles Recovery Project in 2015 in an attempt to eliminate them.

It’s hoped that with the rats gone – none have been seen since last year – not only will the current bird population thrive, but storm petrels and Manx shearwaters will want to breed in the islands too.

Leaving the birds behind, it was time to sail back to Harris.

Everyone seemed satisfied and quietly contemplative. Maybe (like me) they were also thinking of what was waiting for dinner ashore in Harris. Then one of the tourists let out an exclamation that caught our attention – a dolphin! At first there was one, then two, then eventually five or six of them breaking through the waves again and again as Seamus turned the boat around to give us a better view.

The dolphins swam alongside us, diving under the bow, and switching back and forth to show off their skills. Despite my many years living on Lewis, and the many hundreds of times I must have crossed the Minch, it was my first sighting of a dolphin.

Despite all the excitement, our adventure wasn’t quite over, as Seamus steered Pabbay around Eilean Glas Lighthouse, on the Isle of Scalpay, before returning to port. The original lighthouse, built in 1788, was the first in the Hebrides, while the current tower, eye-catching in its red-and-white stripes, dates back to 1824.

Back in Tarbert my hair was matted, my skin was salty from the sea breeze, and my nose was red from the sunshine, but I honestly couldn’t have asked for a better day. I talked about the boat trip all the way back to Stornoway in the car, and to anyone who would listen in the weeks afterwards. The Shiants stayed on my mind, and I found myself reading about them, watching documentaries about them, and mentally planning my eventual return.

Maybe it was the unexpectedness of it all that meant the islands made a strong impression on me.

I had set sail for the Shiants knowing nothing and expecting little, and ended up having one of the best travel afternoons of the year – and quite possibly my life. For me, the Shiants had transformed from vanishing marks on the edge of a watery horizon to a living, breathing place bursting with wildlife, history, and character. The next time I glance out of the car window and spot them in the distance, I’ll send out a silent hello to the enchanted isles of the Minch.

____________________

NEED TO KNOW

How do I get there? I’ve now sailed with Sea Harris on two trips (to the Shiants and St Kilda ), and can highly recommend them. Not only will you have an incredible experience, but you’ll get a good laugh, too! Sea Harris have recently started boat trips to the Shiants on their new RIB, Pabbay . Costs vary, depending on the time at sea and whether you land on the islands or not, but for the 2017 season, Shiant trips will cost you £55 at the most.

When is the best time to go? While there is never any guarantee of good weather in the Outer Hebrides (there can be sunshine in February and rain in June!), Sea Harris tours operate between April and September.

What essentials do I need to bring? Take a waterproof jacket, in case it gets cold or wet, but keep in mind that most of the RIB is enclosed, with plenty of seats inside, if you want more protection from the elements. Snacks are a good idea too (although that may just be me and my chocolate addiction…).

Where can I find out more about the Shiants? Check out the Sea Harris website, where you’ll find information as well as contact details for booking trips. The RSPB website offers plenty of information on the regeneration project, and for more in-depth reads on the islands, I’d also recommend Sea Room by Adam Nicolson, and The Old Ways by Robert Macfarlane.

Have you ever visited the Shiants, or would you like to? Let me know what you think in the comments below – I’d love to hear from you!

____________________ 

If you enjoyed this, you might like:

A Boat Trip to the Shiants – On Video!

Exploring St Kilda, the Islands at the Edge of the World

The Outer Hebrides Travel Guide

August 16, 2017 at 10:47 am

Spent two weeks on the Shiants in 1973, ringing puffins, guillemot, razorbills and shags mainly, plus the odd herring and black back gull.

A truly wonderful place, always wanted to go back……..

August 16, 2017 at 11:08 am

That sounds like an amazing experience, Euan. We didn’t see any shags from the boat, but I saw them on a documentary about the Shiants recently – they look like quite fierce birds! Hope you manage to make it back to the islands someday 🙂

August 16, 2017 at 4:17 pm

Quite vicious beaks. Not as bad as puffins though – vicious beaks and claws. They know how to use them too! Look such meek little birds!

August 16, 2017 at 5:02 pm

How interesting! I was definitely fooled by the puffins’ appearance – they look so cute and tame!

August 16, 2017 at 11:16 am

I didn’t realise you couldn’t land on the Shiants with the Sea Harris trips – do you know if any tours do land? Even though the boat trip sounds great, I’d love to be able to get walking around on them.

August 16, 2017 at 11:26 am

Hi Anne! I’m glad to hear you’d like to visit the Shiants too! I’m already desperate to go back 🙂 Sea Harris do run landing trips to the Shiants, and trips of different lengths – it just so happens that the one I went on was non-landing. I would definitely recommend contacting them to find out when their next landing trip is running, they’re very helpful.

August 17, 2017 at 3:32 pm

What a great read, I’ve been to St Kilda with Sea Harris, was hoping to get out to the Shiants this summer, but a delayed shoulder op has scuppered that idea, I can’t wait to get out there next spring, thanks for bring the trip to life for me!!

August 18, 2017 at 8:09 am

Thanks Jacqueline, I’m so glad you liked the story! The Shiants really are amazing. Sorry to hear about your shoulder – at least you have the trip to look forward to next spring!

August 24, 2017 at 1:33 pm

This is so so cool and beautifully written! I may just add it to my Scottish bucket list!

August 27, 2017 at 12:16 pm

Thanks so much Camila! I’d definitely recommend adding it to your Scottish bucket list 🙂

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[email protected]

Kenny on 07711828801

EILEAN GLAS MARINE LTD

Eilean Glas RIB Tours

COME AND EXPERIENCE THE WONDERS OF SCALPAY

An T-Eilean Boidheach

WHAT WE OFFER

Our tours are a mix of local history, scenery and wildlife. On our main tour, which starts in the North Harbour of Scalpay, you will experience all that the island has to offer. A rich variety of birds, seals, dolphins, whales and iconic landmarks as seen from the sea. We can also offer alternative tours that take in the nearby deserted settlements, or to the enchanted Shiant Islands, where you can enjoy the amazing geology of the islands, as well as the puffin and other sea bird colonies.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

When do the tours depart.

We normally run two tours a day, Monday to Friday.  Our morning tours are the Scalpay scenic, local history and wildlife tours.  We also offer these tours on Mon and Fri afternoons.  On Tuesday and Thursday afternoons we offer a non-landing, trip to the Shiant Islands and on a Wednesday afternoon we have a "deserted settlements" tour. However, because of weather and tidal constraints tours and times may vary.

HOW LONG IS THE TOUR?

Our regular tour normally lasts around 2 hours depending on what wildlife we see and how long we stop to say hello to them! For our Shiant Islands trip we allow 3 hours and for the deserted settlements tour it is 2 and a half hours.  we ask all passengers to be there 15 minutes beforehand to allow for safety briefings etc.

HOW MUCH IS THE TOUR?

The regular tour costs £50 for an adult and £25 for under 16's. The Shiant Islands tour is £80 for adults and £40 for U-16s and for the deserted settlements tour it is £70 for adults and £35 for U-16s. Payment is made on the day of the tour, either by cash or card. We operate a no sail no pay policy, as the weather is one thing we have no control over.

WHERE DOES THE TOUR DEPART FROM?

We operate out of the Marina, North Harbour, Scalpay. Once you come off the Scalpay bridge, turn left at the t-junction after the bus shelter, then follow the road into the village. When you pass the North Harbour Bistro, take the next right and you will arrive at the harbour. We are situated in the green container opposite the Community Centre.

Please feel free to contact us if you would like more information, have a special request, or would like to make a booking. You can Email, WhatsApp or call us on the number below. If we don't answer please leave a message as we may be busy enjoying a tour! We will reply as soon as we can.

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Go to St Kilda

Adventures to St Kilda from the Isle of Skye

Ditching the Tourist Trail

June 27, 2019 By Rachel

I was lucky enough to be invited along on a ‘ Harris Distillery and Shiants Puffin ’ tour a few weeks back, in the hope that I can give a guest’s insight into what a day aboard Go to St Kilda is really like.

A small group of us set off across the minch on a bright Tuesday morning. Bouncing over the waves we looked back on Skye’s pretty village of Stein, our destination: Tarbert, Harris.

We were told by skipper Kenny to keep our eyes peeled for porpoises and minke whale that are known to haunt the surrounding waters and often come to play alongside passing boats.

Harris Distillery

Rolling into the harbour in Tarbert we slowly passed the moonlike, rocky landscapes of Harris and arrived at the distillery at 11am. We were greeted by our charming local guide Sandy who ushered us into a cosy room and dealt us two generous drams each. She explained a little about the distillery and their ethos when it comes to making whisky that: “you can’t rush quality”. The resounding success of their Harris Gin means that the distillery can comfortably wait as long as is needed to create the perfect island dram.

You don’t have to be in to this sort of thing to enjoy a tour around the Harris Distillery. It’s very casual but interesting all the same. With just the right amount of tasty drinks, jelly beans and craic to get you by. It’ll leave you feeling like you want to invest in a cask yourself (but of course they flew off the shelves and sadly are all now sold!)

When the tour came to end Kenny encouraged us to wander around the village and visit the popular Harris Tweed gift shop . But on wandering we came across a bar and treated ourselves to a much deserved (ahem) beer and poke of chips whilst sitting in the sunshine overlooking the harbour.

The Shiant Isles

We made it back to the boat and hightailed it Eastward for a forty-minute journey. With no shortage of mesmerising views we arrived at the remote Shiant Isles, a privately owned group of islands located around 12 miles from the Northern tip of Skye.

These islands are home to 10% of the world’s puffin population. Although we were guaranteed a sighting of them, it doesn’t take away from how special it is seeing hundreds of the colourful birds in their home territory.

We reached the furthest away of the Shiant Isles: Eilean an Taighe, a quiet, enchanting place. Took a dingy on land and scrambled across the shore to find the perfect pew for some coffee and cake à la Kenny. We were given just over an hour to explore the island, and so we wound our way up a nearby hill to panoramic sea and island views. It’s quite a surreal experience when you’re somewhere this remote. Looking around at the vast expanse of sea in pin drop silence is nothing short of magical.

Making our way back to Stein on Skye, feeling all windswept and smug, and surrounded by even more captivating views, I couldn’t help but think this is how you do life right.

It can seem tempting to tick off all the major sites of Skye in one gruelling car journey on the tourist trail, but spending an entire day at sea exploring these untouched areas is a much more rewarding experience to take home.

Get in touch with Go to St Kilda here if you’d like to book your own memorable experience.

St Kilda and the Shiants (Gemini Explorer)

Find the perfect trip.

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• phone UK: 01432 507 280
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£2400.0

* Current p/p indicative rate.

• Discover Tobermory, Canna & Loch Dunvegan
• Explore Shiant Isles, Oban & Hirta, St Kilda

This Outer Hebridean (10 night) cruise will, if the weather is kind, give us time to explore fabulous St Kilda; the Shiant Isles; and many dramatic islands of the Outer Hebrides. Our starting point is Oban, the gateway to the western Scottish Islands.

Our small ships will anchor in scenic, lonely islands, in tranquil bays and, throughout the trip, we see incredible wildlife - soaring sea and golden eagles, many species of sea birds, basking sharks, orca and minke whales, porpoises, dolphins and seals. Aboard our small ships you can do as little or as much as you want. Sit back and enjoy the trip as you travel through the Sounds; pass the islands and sea lochs; view the spectacular mountains and fast running tides that make extraordinary spiral patterns and glassy runs in the sea; marvel at the lofty headland lighthouses and castles; and, if you want, become involved in working the wee ships.

Our ultimate destination is Village Bay, Hirta, on the archipelago of St Kilda - a UNESCO world heritage site. Hirta is the largest of the four islands in the St Kilda group and was inhabited for some 2000 years before the villagers were evacuated in 1930, never to return.

The sea cliffs (the highest in the UK) of the St Kilda islands rise dramatically out of the Atlantic and are the protected breeding grounds of many different sea bird species (gannets, fulmars, Leach's petrel, which are hunted at night by giant skuas, and puffins). These thousands of seabirds were once an important source of food for the islanders. The breathtaking islands of Soay and Boreay have rare, ancient species of feral sheep and the St Kildan wren and field mouse are both unique sub species.

Prices quoted here are often dependent on currency fluctuations. Please check with (01432 507450 or [email protected] ) for the very latest price, which may well be cheaper than the one advertised here.

Gemini Explorer

Gemini Explorer, a mini cruise ship,  is a historic, converted cruising lifeboat that once roamed the Western Approaches and was involved in the storm of the ill-fated 1979 Fastnet Race. Gemini Explorer was built in 1974 in Bideford Shipyard as the City of Bristol (70-003), one of three, Clyde class, cruising lifeboats (see Wikipedia) with an extended offshore range of 1700 miles. She is powered by two powerful Gardner diesel engines and she will achieve speeds of up to twelve knots. The Gemini Explorer entered service at the Clovelly Lifeboat Station on the North Devonshire coast and, after saving 44 lives, was finally retired in 1989. Since then, after extensive re-fits and modifications (including a new galley, high bulwarks, viewing top deck, en-suite accommodation and a well lit saloon), she has been converted to a mini cruise ship and today sails as the Gemini Explorer. However, there are parts of the insides of the vessel that have been kept in their original state to give an exciting insight in to role she once played as a cruising lifeboat. As a mini cruise ship she has voyaged as far away as Greenland and, for the last 10 years, sailed as a charter vessel on the east coast of Scotland. In 2020 after a further refit and upgrade she will be sailing the beautiful islands and sea lochs of Scotland’s west coast as part of St Hilda Sea Adventures little fleet.

Accommodation The deck saloon is where everyone dines and socialises and where everyone enjoys a convivial atmosphere that is encouraged by shipboard life aboard this ex-cruising lifeboat. Cabins are warm and comfortable with eight berths for our guests. In the forward part of the vessel there is a double en-suite, a twin en-suite and single en-suite. In the aft part of the vessel there is a cabin which can sleep up to three guests (choice of one double bed and two single berths). This aft cabin shares the bathroom with the two crew. All en-suites and the bathroom have a washbasin, toilet and shower. All cabin linen and towels are supplied. There is an upper viewing deck complete with teak benches and perfect for spotting wildlife and relaxing. You also have some deck space to embark your own equipment such as kayaks and paddleboards. You will also be able to use the onboard two person sea kayak.

Seahorse II

Seahorse II (82 feet long and a beamy 23 feet)  was built to the highest standard for the Norwegian fjords and life in the high northern latitudes. A 10mm Swedish steel hull, air conditioned and heated throughout, and winter sailing for the British Royal Navy for months at a time in the western approaches means that this wee cruise ship is more than enough for these summer adventures in the Gulf Stream warmed waters of the west coast of Scotland. Powerful enough to cruise the many spectacular islands and lochs of the Inner Hebrides and Outer Hebrides, yet small enough to anchor in remote and hauntingly beautiful places that the larger passenger ships are unable to visit. With a maximum speed of 11 knots (from a 350 hp Volvo diesel) Seahorse II is a sturdy, go-anywhere, yet comfortable adventurer.

Accommodation 2019  Seahorse II takes a maximum of eleven guests. There are two NEW double (or twin) en-suites and two twins, three single cabins, one with a 105 cm wide bed, all temperature controlled and with washbasin. All cabin linen and towels are supplied including luxurious towelling dressing gowns for the cabins with no en-suite. There is a wonderful deck saloon where we dine and view the spectacular Hebridean wildlife. A bridge full of the best navigational aids, a high foredeck for wildlife spotting and a boat deck for lounging, she is the perfect vessel for your life afloat. On the spacious aft deck (ideal for alfresco dining when the boat is at anchor or under way) we have a powerful little crane for launching Seahorse's two dinghies, two sea kayaks and paddle board. Here there is also plenty of room for your windsurf and kitesurf gears, diving gear, sailing dinghies and anything else you need for a great Scottish sea adventure.

Your Crew 

You will have a crew of three taking you on your Scottish mini cruise. Your professional skipper is passionate about boats, sailing, and the natural environment of the islands and sea lochs of the Hebrides and Argyll. He is more than happy to share his knowledge of the area to those on board while ensuring his shipmates have as much fun as possible. You will have your own on board chef who provides wonderful meals, locally-sourced and freshly prepared from the galley and a bosun/crewmember who will be there to provide assistance whenever you will need it.

Speideren – An ex-Norwegian Rescue Ship

Speideren, 75 feet long with a cruising range of 4,000 nautical mile, was built in Norway in 1969 as a Rescue Ship (one of 13 such vessels) for the NSSR - the Norwegian Society for Sea Rescue. Sturdily built with two powerful, reliable engines, a mighty hull, deep keel and strong superstructure, Speideren (which is Norwegian for “Scout”) worked the unpredictable waters of the North and Arctic Seas, rescuing and towing many a crippled vessel.

Following decommissioning, in 1994 a conversion was carried out to create a fast, luxurious cruising vessel for a private owner and very recently further improvements have been made which include a viewing deck, en-suite accommodation, and a well-lit deck saloon. Today Speideren makes an ideal small cruising ship for taking guests of all ages comfortably, swiftly and safely on adventures to the remote inlets and lochs of Scotland’s Wild Isles, travelling as far away as St Kilda in the Atlantic Ocean. 

En-suite Accommodation

The saloon is where everyone dines and socialises and where everyone enjoys a convivial atmosphere that is encouraged by shipboard life aboard this ex-Norwegian Recue Ship. Cabins are warm and comfortable, with eight berths in four cabins that are situated in the forward part of the vessel. The three double and one twin en-suite cabins, intimate and mellow, are fitted out in traditional varnished hardwood with soft antique light. Two of the cabins are especially spacious and luxurious with granite washbasins and polished brass taps! All the bunks are soft and comfortable and all cabin linen and towels are supplied. 

The decks are spacious with comfortable seating on the sheltered after deck for comfortable wildlife observing. You also have plenty of deck space in which to bring your own equipment such as kayaks and paddleboards. There is an on board tender in which the crew takes you safely ashore to visit the villages and remote parts of Wild Scotland.

Your professional skipper is passionate about boats, sailing, and the natural environment of the islands and sea lochs of the Inner and Outer Hebrides. He is more than happy to share his knowledge of the area to those on board while ensuring his shipmates have as much fun as possible. You will have your own on board chef who provides wonderful meals, locally-sourced and freshly prepared from the galley and a bosun/crewmember who will be there to provide assistance whenever you will need it.

11 days from £2400.0

Find your favorite region, similar trips.

Into Remotest North Harris: An adventure by boot and boat..

Walk in / cruise out.

Walk to Dirascal with ‘Wild Harris’ following an historic route through the desolate beauty of rugged Gleann Uladail, passing under the imposing rock overhang of Sron Uladal.  Meet Isle of Harris Sea Tours at Dirascal,   taking the boat from there out of Loch Reasort to alight on Scarp and explore the abandoned village. Finally, relax on the cruise back to Tarbert with stunning views of the Harris hills and Taransay on the way.

TOUR DURATION – 8.5 hours (approx) COST – £140

Into Remotest North Harris: An adventure by boat and boot..

Cruise in / walk out.

Board our vessel in Tarbert and cruise to Scarp, going ashore to soak in the atmosphere of a once well populated island. From there, penetrate the true wilderness of fjord-like Loch Reasort to seek out the small settlement of blackhouse ruins in Dirascal. Here the boat will leave you in the capable company of ‘Wild Harris’ who will guide you, showing you eagles and red deer as you trek the 10km back through the hills to the present day.

The Shiant Isles

Na h-eileanan shianta.

Visit the Bewitched Islands, so called because they appear to continually change shape with the weather and visibility. The most impressive feature of na h-Eileanan Shianta is the great columnar cliffs of the north coast, rising to some 100m sheer from the water, with their cliff ledges occupied in the breeding season by myriad of sea-fowl.

TOUR DURATION: – 6 hours COST – £110 adults – Children 14 and under £70

See the full schedule

Otters, Seals and Creels

Wildlife on show.

Make your way along the South coast of East Loch Tarbert taking in settlements from the late 1800s in Ard Meavig where the remains of blackhouses and cultivation of a long gone era can be seen at the water’s edge as far as Cathair na Cailleach ( maiden’s chair ) at Rubha Rebinish. A leisurely cruise with excellent wildlife spotting opportunities and general sightseeing.

TOUR DURATION – 3 hours COST – £60 adults – Children 14 and under £40

Round Island Odyssey – including a visit to Taransay

West to east.

Travel around the islands – we cruise along the beautiful coastline of Harris with its rocky inlets and the picturesque crofting villages which relied upon the sea for their survival through fishing. There is a wealth of local history on this tour, taking in iron-age forts, ruined castles and St Clements church. So much beautiful wildlife can be seen here from seals and otters to porpoises, dolphins and more. This trip starts off with 2 hours ashore at Taransay, a beautiful island made famous by the Castaway 2000 TV series.

TOUR DURATION – 8 hours COST – £130 adults, £95 children 14 and under

Fishing Trip – tackle and tuition included

Fish for pollock at bogh bocaig.

This trip will take us out of the East Loch Tarbert to a locally renowned fishing spot at Bogh Bocaig where a sustainable fishing of Pollock is available.

Mackerel and herring are abundant during the summer season and the occasional cod can be caught as well on the cleaner ground. We move on toward Scalpay light and try our luck at Griadaich which is a reef commonly used by Scalpay fishing boats.

TOUR DURATION – 3 hours COST – £70 adults, £40 children 14 and under.

Bays of Harris

Follow the shoreline round from Direcleit to Ceann Dibig (Kendebig) and to Aird Mhiabhaig (Meavaig) where there are a number of ‘tobhtaichean'(the remaining walls of ruined houses). Blackhouses and the villages of Caolas Sgeire Buidhe, Port na Biorach at Plocrapol, Cathair na Cailleach, are en-route, continuing to the picturesque village of Scadabaigh (Scadabay) and on to Mol Bàn which translates from Gaelic to ‘white shingle beach’.

TOUR DURATION – 4 hours COST: £70 adults – Children 14 and under £40

West Loch Tarbert to Scarp and Loch Reasort

Remote beaches and “rocket post” island.

This full day tour will take you into the heart of the beautiful and remote area of North Harris. Some of the most gorgeous beaches that the island has to offer can be found here, as well as the remains of crofting villages and rarely seen views of the islands in the West Loch. During our trip we will stop ashore for lunch, which will be, depending on tides, either at one of the no longer inhabited villages of Diorascal or Luachair, or at the Island of Scarp, famous for the ill-fated ‘Rocket Post’.

TOUR DURATION – 8 hours COST – £130 adults – Children 14 and under £95

Round Harris – including a visit to Taransay

East to west odyssey.

This tour is aptly named; a full day trip around Harris from East to West. We start out at Tarbert following the coast around the bays of Harris, to Leverburgh where we’ll be stopping for lunch. We then head around the Sound of Harris and on to the beautiful Ensay, Luskentyre, Taransay and Loch Siar. This trip will include 2 hours ashore at Taransay, a beautiful island made famous by the Castaway 2000 TV series.

Bespoke Charters and Tour Concierge

We want you be happy, relaxed and refreshed on your sea tour with us and if you wish to do that your way and to your own specifications, a private charter might be just what is required.

You can charter our boat for your family and friends for the day to see the parts of the island off the beaten track, to spot wildlife at leisure and perhaps to go ashore in a beautiful wild place, the choice is yours.

More information

We have a range of trips which each have a different focus from trips to islands like the Shiant Isles and Scarp to leisurely tours around the entire coast line of the Isle of Harris.

Each trip will allow you to experience our island home at its best through landscape, language and culture.