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Nouvelle Mosquée de Vendredi

Friday worship takes place in the magnificent new Friday mosque next to the port. In between prayers, the steps outside the mosque serve as a meeting…

Arab Quarter

The neighbourhood around the port and the Ancienne Mosquée de Vendredi (old Friday mosque) is a convoluted medina with narrow streets lined with buildings…

It's a hard and steep climb from Lac Dzialandzé up to the normally cloud-covered summit of 1595m (5231ft) Mt Ntingui, the highest point on Anjouan. On a…

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Oct 18, 2013 • 6 min read

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Comoros Islands Travel Guide丨Everything You Need To Know

By Author Christian L.

Posted on Published: October 3, 2017  - Last updated: September 30, 2021

Categories Africa , Comoros , Destinations

The Comoros Islands are a place of amazingly warm and friendly people, all-around fantastic weather, and world-class beaches. The crown jewel is its underwater world – even the most famous countries in south-east Asia should be jealous of it. Yet, most people don’t even know that this African country exists. 

This tiny country, located between northern Mozambique and Madagascar , is ranked as one of the poorest countries in the world (32nd poorest in fact). Comoros is a true off the beaten path travel destination, yet few places have surprised me as much as this one. Considering that this was the 104th country I’ve visited, it must’ve been quite impressive if it made it onto my list of top 10 favorite countries.

Comoros Travel Guidebooks are near impossible to find, and even finding information online is tough. So, it’s quite possible that this will be the most up-to-date information that you find. 

A Guide to My Trip to Comoros, Africa

Comoros is made up of three islands. The Grand Comore (Ngazidja) is the largest Island and is home to the Comoros Capital. Mohéli (Mwali) is an absolute paradise and home to the Moheli Marine Park, which is one of the best places in the world to swim with Humpback Whales.

Lastly, there’s Anjouan (Nzwani) which is known to have stunning vegetation and ample waterfalls. 

While I did get to explore Grand Comore and Mohéli during my 10-day visit, I’m yet to see the beautiful Island of Anjouan with my own eyes – another trip to Comoros is definitely in order. 

Comoros Islands Tourism: A Short History Lesson

Comoros gained independence from France in 1975, but the country has since experienced more than 20 coups d’état or attempted coups. The first president after independence didn’t even make it to a second month in office before he was toppled in a coup, whilst many heads of state have been assassinated too. Comoros was a mercenary’s heaven here for over 30 years now. These days the mercenaries are long gone.

This turbulent and violent history is the reason why the country has been aptly nicknamed “Coup the coup.” Comoros’ slogan could almost have been “ Another day, Another coup. ”

Comoros was actually considered the world’s most unstable country up until 2008, but since then, it’s experienced relative stability. I felt completely safe during my whole visit, and based on my experience; I can say that the locals were some of, if not the friendliest, I have met in all of Africa.

Comoros Travel Guide 

Seeing as the country is so off the beaten track, it’s not easy finding all the information you need to know. Luckily, I’ve been there, done that, and got the t-shirt. Whether you’re concerned about visa, accommodation, food, or transport, your questions will be answered below. 

Visa Rules for Comoros

No matter which passport you have, all visitors traveling to Comoros are required to get a visa. Luckily, this can easily be done on arrival at the airport. For 30 euros, you’ll be granted a 45-day visa – all you need to provide is your passport, place of accommodation, and proof of return ticket. The visa will take up one full page of your passport.

Arriving And Leaving Comoros

The only International Airport on Comoros is the Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport which is located 20km north of the capital Moroni. The airport is tiny, with only one gate, so don’t expect any facilities. 

In terms of reaching the Island, there are no direct Comoros flights from outside Eastern Africa. The best connections are with Kenya Airways through Nairobi or Addis Ababa with Ethiopian Airlines. There are flights through Madagascar , Tanzania , and Reunion, but according to locals, those flights are known for being delayed.

The airport doesn’t have an ATM, so be sure to arrange your airport pickup in advance. There also isn’t public transportation between the airport and anywhere. You could walk outside the airport and get a shared taxi into town if you speak some French. A taxi to or from the airport to central Moroni will cost about 10 euros during the day and 15 euros during the night.

You also won’t find any ATMs or money exchange facilities at the Comoros airport either. So you’ll have to wait till you arrive in town before drawing and exchanging your cash. Also, it’ll be best to get rid of all your local money before leaving, as you won’t be able to exchange it once you arrive at the airport. 

When it comes to departure, Ethiopian Air opens flight check-in up to 5 hours before take-off. The only facilities at departure are a tiny shop selling soft drinks and a shop selling local souvenirs. It was the only place where I saw any souvenirs being sold on the Island. 

When leaving Comoros, it’s highly recommended that you spend your last night in Moroni. While there are boat services between the islands, they’re often delayed due to weather. 

The only other alternative way off the islands is via a boat service between Moroni and Dar Es Salaam in Tanzania. However, there is very little information available about this – tickets can be bought in the harbor near the Government Tourist office.

Money on Comoros Island

The local currency is the Comorian Franc (KMF), which comes in coins (25, 50, 100, 250) and notes (500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10 000). Generally, you’ll get 490 KMF for 1 Euro and 420 KMF for 1 USD. 

There is an ATM that accepts VISA bank cards at the port, in the lobby of the Retaj Hotel , as well as a few other ATMs in Moroni and one in Mitsamioul on the north of Grand Comore (as of November 2019). I didn’t see any ATMs on Moheli. Luckily, the Comoros island hotels and higher-end restaurants accept payment in Euro.

Comoros Hotels & Other Accommodation

Due to Comoros being such a poor country, you won’t find much variety here when it comes to accommodation. You either have to go cheap and local or high-end like the rest of the upper class in this country.

You won’t find any guesthouses or hostels in the country, but there are a few Airbnb’s around the capital. If you’re traveling with a partner, this will help you with budgeting as you can split the costs equally. 

In general, you can get a cheap, budget Airbnb for 35 – 44 Euros or spend 90+ euros on a high-end hotel room. There weren’t any mid-range accommodation options during my time in Comoros.  

Getting Around Comoros

There’s no bus system on the Island, so the only way to get around is by taking shared taxis or hiring a car with a driver for the day. I never found any car rental companies for self-exploring if you would prefer that. A shared taxi around Moroni will cost you around 250 KMF or 500 KMF to Hotel Itsandra. Hiring a car with a driver (talk to your hotel or Airbnb Host) will cost 30 – 40 euros for a full day, including fuel.

The road leading north from the airport is full of potholes, so don’t expect to travel between places at high speed. The road from the airport to Moroni is pretty good, and the road from Moroni down south to Chindini is also fairly good.

If you’re wanting to travel between the three islands, you can catch a ride on a small open boat (or “ferry”). To catch a ferry out to Moheli or Anjouan, you will have to head down to Chindini on the southern tip of Grande Comore; this is where all boats leave from (if the weather’s good). 

There are about four boat trips out to Moheli each day, and takes around 2 hours if the water is calm. Before departing, you’ll have to register your passport with the harbor police. You’ll also have to do this upon arrival at the next island, which is done the old-fashioned way with pen and paper, so it takes some time.

A one-way ferry will cost about 75 euros – a local flight will cost the same, but these are often canceled. 

Do be aware that, while these boat trips are relatively safe, accidents and drownings have occurred in the past. Two boats went down, and 24 died a few days before my arrival. So never do the crossing between islands if the weather is unstable.

Comoros Food

Seafood, seafood, more seafood, and perhaps a little bit of chicken. That’s more or less the menu on the Comoros Islands. Most of the Grande Comore is made of hard volcanic rocks, which means very few vegetables can be grown here. So, almost everything here is imported.

Restaurant New Select in central Morini has a good chicken curry on the menu but not much else.

While Comoros traditional food is very cheap, prices are slightly inflated due to import costs. While on the islands, you can expect to pay:

• Budget meal: 3 Euros for a chicken baguette, french style.
• Mid-range meal: 6-8 Euro for pasta, hamburger, etc.
• High-end meal: 14+ Euro for a meal at a hotel.

The downside of food in Comoros is the supermarkets. The supermarkets are very small and poorly stocked. So eating out will likely be the easiest option or going to the local markets for some fresh fruit.

Is Comoros Safe for Tourists?

I felt 100% safe during my whole visit; even when walking around the capital after dark, the locals were always extremely friendly and helpful. But locals did warn me against pickpockets in the local Vola Vola market in Moroni.

Do remember that 90% of the Comoros population is Sunni Muslim, so remember to dress respectfully. As a woman, you will not have to cover your hair (you will see that many of the local women don’t do it), but you should cover your shoulders.

The biggest danger here is, as always, the traffic. When traveling around the Island, you will see countless old, wrecked-up cars. So the only real Comoros safety travel tip is to be aware of reckless driving and the small local boats between the islands.

Comoros: Alcohol & Drinks

Since 90% of the population here is Sunni Muslim, it is easy to understand that alcohol is not widely sold in public here. I was actually never able to find a shop selling alcohol despite the thousands of old smashed beer cans laying on the streets.

If you do get thirsty for a beer, there are a few spots where you can find a cold one. All the beers sold here are imported – usually EFS beer from Turkey EFS beer, some German beer, or Madagascar’s Three Horses. The price for a small beer is typically 1500 KMF (3 Euro). 

Sim Sim at Itsandra beach and Le Coraya Restaurant (great for sunset) all offer a good selection of imported liquors as well. 

When it comes to Comoros nightlife, there are quite a few bars and nightclubs where you can let your hair down – especially in the city of Moroni. 

Comoros Language

Comoros has three official languages: Comorian, Arabic, and French. While I did find a surprisingly high amount of people who knew some basic English, it’s recommended that you brush up on your basic French before travelling here. 

Comoros Islands: Other Things to Note

As mentioned previously, Comoros is incredibly poor. So one can easily understand that the country and its infrastructure are extremeley underdeveloped. These side notes and tips on Comoros will ensure that you aren’t (unpleasantly) surprised during your trip. 

Things You Should Pack for Your Comoros Travels

There’s very little in terms of buying opportunities in Comoros. If you happen to forget something at home, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to buy it here. So, be sure to pack everything you will need during your stay here. 

During my trip, I only took my carry-on backpack . The only additional thing I brought along was my snorkeling gear so I could see the amazing underwater world of Comoros. 

Internet on Comoros

Don’t expect much in terms of the internet when you come to Comoros. Your best bet is to head to the hotels – you can use their wifi for free if you buy a few drinks. Otherwise, head to the “New Select” restaurant on the main square in Moroni.

Electricity in Comoros 

Powercuts are the norm here, so it’s recommended that you carry a power bank and flashlight with you. But the better hotels and AirBnb´s has generators. The power plugs on Comoros are the normal European-style ones – the standard voltage is 220 V, and the standard frequency is 50 Hz.

Final Thoughts on Comoros Islands

While this African country may not be as easy a destination to reach, there are so many reasons to visit Comoros . If you love friendly locals, stunning landscapes, breathtaking underwater scenes and don’t mind roughing it, Comoros is the place for you, especially if you want to go far off the beaten path; where else in the world can you swim with humpback whales without crowds?

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Monday 22nd of November 2021

Hi Christian,

Planning a trip to Moheli. Where should we stay and what is the best means of transport to get to the island?

Where do you recommend on Moroni for 1 night (waiting for flights etc.)

Thanks in advance,

Christian L.

Tuesday 23rd of November 2021

Hello Stephen. Taking a domestic flight is by far the most comfortable way to get to Moheli, but the local flights get very often canceled, so you might be waiting more than 1 day on Great Comore. By far the best hotel on the main island on Comoros is the Golden Tulip, however, it´s not cheap.

The most common way between the two islands is by a local boat, If you do contact Laka Lodge, the main and best accommodation option on Moheli, so can they arrange a boat transfer for you.

Top 10: Best Islands in Africa

Thursday 1st of August 2019

[…] Comoros Islands Nominated by Christina Lindgren from Unusual Traveler […]

Thursday 13th of June 2019

Myself Ashish, Indian by birth.

I just read ur detailed description about Comoros, as i am planning to travel to Moroni for my Business purpose and leisure both. I have been to Madagascar and many African countries, as i have Business there. I am a Bachelor and need to travel round the world.

So just have some questions about Moroni -

Alcohol , i understand being a Islamic influenced country is not available readily. But want to know what about night life in moroni.

Are there some pubs, Bars to enjoy with girls or have a drink together and dance and all.

And in general hows the country for a Vegetarian person, as i am Pure Veg.

Hope to see your comment soon.

Sunday 16th of June 2019

Hello Ashish.

There´s not really any "nightlife" in Moroni, but people go to one of the two bars along the beaches to drink and party, there´s some dancing but I wouldn't really call it nightlife. Comoros is not a nightlife place at all. For pure vegetarian, I'm not completely sure, but in general, was most dished without meat in Comoros

Friday 8th of February 2019

Thanks for all the great information. planning a trip in April 2019 to Comoros. Many travel blogs talk about snorkeling on Moheli, but nothing close to Moroni. There have got to be some awesome reefs close by, is it best to merely barter a trip with a local fisherman for a few hours a day or talk to the hotel operators? Any tips or a contact would be appreciated.

Wednesday 13th of February 2019

hello Ken. Sorry for the late reply, I've been travelling a bit remote last 2 weeks, without any reliable internet connection. There´s some good snorkelling just outside the Golden Tulip hotel, that´s also where the only dive centre on the island is located. I always bring my own snorkelling gear on every trip, and I did a bit of snorkelling around the Golden Tulip, you just walk off the beach here. So no need for a boat.

Im sorry I can´t help you with more information about snorkelling around Moroni, but I would try to contact the Golden Tulip and the Dive center located there for better and more reliable information than just the information I got from a 1hour snorkelling trip:)

Arne van der Zande

Tuesday 8th of January 2019

Hello Chris, i am now, januari 2019, on Comores. It is in this time of the year too hot here. Same for Mayotte and West Madagascar with places as Morondava. So European winter is not the right time to visit this area.

For you as beerlover i have good news. , Just outside Moroni, on the mainroad direction north, airport, next to shop Sawaprix ( is on Mapa.me) is Nicom 7/7. This is the local liquoir store with all sorts of beers and spirits from all over the world.

And with Ewa air is easy and cheap flying from Mayotte. I paid €188 for single trip from Mayotte to Moroni.

The Ultimate Guide to Visiting Comoros

Comoros is an off-the-beaten-path destination you have to visit. I’ve been wanting to travel to Comoros for years, and finally last month I spent some time backpacking there. Before I went there, I had never heard anyone traveling to Comoros. Most of the people haven’t even heard of this place, and it’s one of the least visited countries in the world. It definitely was the most remote place I’ve ever traveled to, and even in the capital city, my phone had no signal. As Lonely Planet says:

“Haphazardly scattered across the Indian Ocean, the mysterious, outrageous and enchanting Comoros islands are the kind of place you go to just drop off the planet for a while. Far removed from the clutter that comes with conventional paradises – sprawling hotels, neon discos – the Comoros are so remote even an international fugitive could hide out here.”

Comoros consists of three islands: Grande Comore, Mohéli , and Anjouan. There’s also a fourth island, Mayotte, but that’s part of France. Grande Comore is the main island with the smallest international airport I’ve ever been to, and the capital city, Moroni.

The official languages are French, Arabic, and Comorian. Because I don’t speak any of those languages, I sometimes had difficulties getting myself understood. I’ve been trying to learn French for years, but it’s hard, and the pronunciation feels impossible for me! But somehow I managed to get by, and I always found people who spoke English as well. I tried to learn Comorian but only managed to pick up three words: Thank you, water, and hello. What more do you need? I also found out that most people understand Swahili as well which is a good thing for me because after traveling several months in East Africa, my vocabulary is a bit wider than in Comorian.

If you are flying from the mainland Africa, Kenyan Airways and Ethiopian Airlines fly to Moroni. Ethiopian Airlines flies only three times a week, but Kenyan Airways has flights every day. AB Aviation is a Comorian airline company flying between the Comorian islands, and also from Dar es Salaam in Tanzania, and Mahajanga in Madagascar. Their booking system on their website didn’t really work when I was trying to find prices for flights, so it’s best to book your ticket through a travel agency if you are already in Comoros.

When flying in, you have to pay for a visa that costs either $50 or 30€. So definitely have Euros with you as it’s a way cheaper!

There’s also an option for a ship. I was initially planning to take the ship from Comoros to Madagascar, but everyone was telling me that it’s not worth it. It takes three to four days, and it’s only a little bit cheaper than flying. You can also take boats between the islands, and apparently, there’s even a ship going to Zanzibar.

Getting Around

If you want to travel between the islands, the only option is the boat. Yes, AB Aviation flies between the islands, but they cancel the flights all the time. If you want to fly, let’s say from Grande Comore to Mohéli, but there are more people who want to fly from Grande Comore to Anjouan, they only have one flight that day, and it’s from Grande Comore to Anjouan. It doesn’t matter if you have booked your flights, and are already at the airport. I didn’t even bother trying, so I opted for the boat which is described as a death trap in Lonely Planet (more about that later).

Traveling on land, you have options for a taxi, hitchhiking and minibuses. If you want to go to the international airport, you can find shared taxis near Volo Volo market in Moroni. A private taxi to the airport is more expensive and costs 15-20€. Minibuses going to Chindini or other places in the south can be found in front of Hotel Karthala. As always in Africa, you should start traveling early because all of the minibuses and boats leave in the morning.

Because of the remote location, Comoros is a bit more expensive than other East African countries. I wasn’t prepared for that because you can’t really find any information online.

Where to Stay

If you read this post , you know that I spent my first night sleeping at a house of a local girl I had never met before. My arrival to Comoros was kind of disaster as I missed my connecting flight there and had to take the next one arriving late at night when everything was closed. Also, my luggage didn’t arrive, and I didn’t have any cash either. You can read the full story here , it was definitely an adventure and worth a read. However, I was lucky to experience the hospitality of Comorian people already on the first day of arrival. Here is a picture of the local girl’s place I got to stay on the first night :

You can’t book anything in advance using booking sites like Booking.com, Agoda, etc. because none of the hotels in Comoros use those! That’s why I didn’t have a hotel for the first night. You could try emailing some of the places, but it’s best to arrive there and then find a place. I don’t recommend arriving in the middle of the night like I did, and it wasn’t my initial plan either.

After the first night, I ended up staying at Jardin de la Paix which was one of the nicest ones for the price I paid (30€ for a single room). I checked out other places as well and found something for 20-25€, but they were without a bathroom and were overall just crappy. Even the room in Jardin de la Paix is overpriced because anywhere else in East Africa you would pay around 10 € for a room like that. But as I said earlier, Comoros IS an expensive country.

If you want something more luxurious, stay at Itsandra Hotel which is probably the most expensive hotel on the island. You can also book a room on their website.

Update 2018:

Things have changed after a year, and you can now book several hotels online on Booking.com.

These are the best hotel options I found for Moroni:

Golden Tulip Grande Comore Moroni Resort & Spa

Luxury hotel featuring a private beach, an outdoor pool, and free wifi.

Le Kalyptus

Also quite an expensive option. This place is a 6-minute walk from the beach.

And for Mohéli:

Mohéli Laka Lodge

Moheli Laka Lodge is a beach resort in National Marine Park of Moheli in Nioumachoua. All of the rooms have a private terrace and ocean view, direct access to the beach and a private bathroom.

Honestly, I’ve never felt safer in Africa. Of course, I always try to be careful and avoid walking after dark, and I also take a good care of my belongings. But in Comoros, I never felt scared to take out my camera and take pictures, which is something I definitely didn’t do in Antananarivo for example. I also felt safe to hitchhike. The local people are so warm and friendly, and I haven’t heard anyone getting robbed there. But as always when traveling, a good travel insurance is necessary – especially when you’re traveling to remote places like Comoros. I highly recommend World Nomads travel insurance because it’s great for long-term travelers and you can also buy it when you’re already on the road.

Talk to the Locals

First of all, I want to start by saying that Comorian people were one of the warmest and welcoming people I’ve met! They did everything to help me in every situation. Starting from the first night when I didn’t have money for the visa, didn’t have a place to stay or food to eat and my luggage didn’t arrive either. Or when I was going to Mohéli, my new friend Ridjal did EVERYTHING to help me (you can read the story here ). So talk to the locals! They are not going to rip you off or ask for money, like in so many African countries. They are just genuinely trying to help you and hang out with you.

Comoros is a Muslim country, but a rather liberal one I would say. Not all women covered up their hair, but no one wasn’t wearing a mini skirt either. I made sure to dress conservatively, and most of the time I was wearing a long maxi skirt with a T-shirt covering up my shoulders. I had a normal bikini when I went swimming, and it was fine because usually there was no one around. You can have a beach all to yourself in Comoros! Just in case I also had a swimming T-shirt and shorts with me, but I never felt uncomfortable swimming in my bikinis. Even though it’s a Muslim country, they sell alcohol in some restaurants and nightclubs, but it’s very expensive.

Things to Do in Comoros

I spent half of my time in Grande Comore and half of the time in Mohéli. Check out my Mohéli post  here.

Moroni is the capital city of Comoros, but it’s just like a small village if you compare it to other capitals in East Africa. Go to the Volo Volo market (if you don’t mind the smell, there was a lot of garbage), walk along the coastline, see the Friday Mosque or go to the beach. You may have to take a taxi to the beach, but it’s quite cheap. There are two nice beaches: Itsandra Beach and a bigger public beach before that when coming from Moroni. I was trying to find you a name on Google maps, but there’s no name for the public beach. However, if you can find restaurant Le Sim Sim on Google maps, that’s where the beach is located! Also, if you are looking for a nice place to have a dinner, I really recommend Le Sim Sim! Otherwise, you can find a plenty of restaurant options in the center of Moroni.

The Beaches

When it comes to beaches, there are so many unspoiled, secluded beaches in Comoros. Head to the north of Grande Comore for one of the best ones! From the north, you can also find Lac Sale.

Itsandra Beach is a private beach belonging to the hotel but it’s not actually a private beach because I went there many times. The owners of Jardin de la Paix go there almost every afternoon and recommended it to me. There aren’t that many locals, though, so if you want a private beach that’s pretty much it. There was usually no one else there. The other beach in Moroni is a bigger public beach, and you can also find more locals there.

Just a short ride away from Moroni is a town called Iconi. Here you can see the famous Ikoni Mosque and sea cliffs where women jumped to their deaths in the early 19th century rather than being kidnapped by Malagasy pirates. You can also hike up to a hill to see a volcanic crater. It’s a nice and easy hike. I did this hike with my new friend Ridjal, and we “hired” some local kids to show us the way.

Hike Mount Karthala to See an Active Volcano

This volcano is one of the largest active volcanoes in the world. I really wanted to do this hike, but it was rather expensive (100€). What finally made me not to do it, was the fact that it was a rainy season, and hiking would have been much more challenging (and maybe even unsafe). Also, because of the rainy season, the humidity was pretty much 100%, and I was sweating by just doing nothing, so hiking a mountain wasn’t something I wanted to do. But if you are traveling to Comoros during the dry season, do this! The hike takes pretty much a whole day, you start early in the morning (like 4-5 am early), and you’ll be back when it’s dark. You could also opt for an overnight hike, but that’s even more expensive. If you’re interested in hiking to see other active volcanoes in Africa, check out also my experience  climbing Mount Nyiragongo in DR Congo.


See the Beautiful Nature in Mohéli

Getting to Mohéli was so complicated, and the adventure really deserves its own post, so check out my other post  here if you want to know how was the trip taking boats Lonely Planet describes as death traps.

There’s more information about Mohéli in that post, but I just want to add this island for the list of things to do in Comoros. The nature in Mohéli is very beautiful and unique. You can see giant turtles laying their eggs, Livingstone bats (the biggest bat in the world!), baobab trees, whales, dolphins, and the island is full of beautiful beaches.

Enjoyed the post? Pin it or share it! And check out my other Comoros post here!

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Gabriela you have captured what travel is about for me. I am also a solo female traveler and to get off the beaten track and away from the comercial areas really is something truly unique and brave. I have only been to North Africa. I think I am pretty well travelled and even I said where is this when I saw the title. I love the photos and I cant wait to read through more of your wonderful content.

I love exploring off the beaten path destinations! Haha, I didn’t know about Comoros either a few years ago! 😀

What a hidden gem! I had never heard of Comoros before but now it’s on my travel radar. I can’t believe how difficult it is to book accommodation there though – will avoid arriving late in the evening as you suggested!

Yes, Internet is extremely slow there and they don’t really have any tourists there. So no booking sites in use 😀

I’ve never heard this before. But just read it and say “wow, it’s such a strange place” . Accommodation not good but the landscape is so beautiful here. I hope I can go there soon.

It’s a beautiful place, and I really hope more people would visit!

Thanks for this insight on a off-beaten path! I’ve been wqnting to go for years to Madagascar, I guess that this was great information to plan a trip around those Eastern African island!

I also traveled to Madagascar but that experience wasn’t so nice… Comoros was lovely!

Talking about an off the beaten track destination! You traveled there by yourself and met your new friend Ridjal over there or did he travel with you? It must have been pretty amazing being practically the only tourist out there! How did you find this country?! 😀

I met Ridjal in Comoros. He was a friend with my hotel’s receptionist who organized someone to take me to Iconi. Ridjal and his friend were taking me to Iconi when their car broke down, and I then ended up taking a taxi with just Ridjal to Iconi and he came hiking with me 😀

Cool story! 🙂

What an enchanting place! This looks like such a wonderful and off the beaten path place to go to. Did you learn more about Comoros while you were travelling in Africa?? I have to admit travelling to Africa has loooong been something I want to do. Reading your post has given me even more determination to finally get there. Thank you so much for sharing your experience!

I hope you can travel to Africa! There’s so much to see. Also, check out my other African posts if you need more ideas 🙂

This is so cool! I’ve never read anything about Comoros, but I totally want to go now! Iconi looks super cool and it just looks awesome! This is definitely a good resource.

Yes, many people have never heard of it but it’s definitely worth a visit!

Looks so colorful and unspoiled! Love your photos. Different from Mayote, it seems, had a friend who visited. Still, great place to spend few days relaxing. Thanks. 🙂

Yes, it’s an unspoiled place with beautiful nature 🙂 Haven’t been in Mayotte so I can’t comment but Comoros is less visited than it.

You’re right, I’d never heard of this place! But I love that you were brave and intrepid enough to visit. You often find the kindest locals in the places that remain ‘undiscovered’ by tourism, and it was so nice of your driver’s sister to put you up for the night 🙂

Yes, it was so nice of her, and definitely an interesting experience for me to see how the locals live there!

Wow! Comoros looks absolutely stunning! I must admit to never having heard of it before but I would definitely love to visit some day after reading this. I think travel is so much more exciting when you travel off the beaten path and experience places like this! Thanks for sharing!

I love traveling to off the beaten path destinations like this! I hope you can visit Comoros as well 🙂

What an interesting place! I haven’t heard of Comoros before, to be honest. I am surprised how costly the rooms are and 20 eur without a bathroom? Oh my… It would be really cool to hike to an active volcano but if it’s considered one of the most dangerous volcanoes, I’m not quite sure I’d want to do it 😛

This is really an informative and comprehensive guide to the country! You definitely went off the beaten path. 🙂

Yeah, the rooms were just shitty there 😀 Anywhere else in Africa you would get a much better room for that price. If you read my other Comoros post, you can see that in another island you have to pay 25€ for a room without electricity or running water…

Comoros is definitely a new one for me! Now it is definitely on my radar and I would love to go here! I love off-beat places and this place sounds like the most off-beat of them all! Not being able to book a hotel ahead of time? Sleeping at your driver’s sister’s house? Incredible! Comorians seem like genuinely kind and friendly people. I’ll be saving this post for future reference.

I hope you can visit! It’s a wonderful place even though traveling can be a bit challenging.

Comoros seems like a really nice place and not touristy at all. I love off beaten places like this. I would love to do this hike and see the Karthala volcano. Moroni and Iconi sound like really nice town to see too 🙂

I hope you can make it there! 🙂

Im going there next month! Thanks for the great article on Comoros…a country which I have struggled to find helpful information on. Keep up your great travels and thanks for sharing your adventures with us!

Wow, that’s great! I still haven’t met anyone else who has been there 😀 Enjoy Comoros!

Wonderful write-up, thank you. Know anything about the Moroni -> Dar es Salaam ferry or think Ridjal might? Not sure if it still exists or not but have seen it referenced in a few places. Trying to find info on it is pretty tough. Seems like a cool way to depart Comoros after flying in.

Hi! Sorry, I don’t have any current information about the ferry :/

i am from comoros, and Gabriella said it right, less known small country but we are very kind people. we are a mixture of different origins from the past, because of our geographic location, many boats from every where in the past passed by , found that beautiful islands and decide to stay, that why there is no unique color for comoran people, you can find people look like indians, others look like arabs, europeans, athers a mixture of all of those races, i even have a grand ma of 90 years old who looks like a portugese, an i was like what the heck? how come she looks like portugease? what the link? well, now you see, even portugal passed by, after all why not them? then let’s mention onother special thing in Comoros, this is the islands where you can see the moon so near you as if it is in front of you and following you, soemtime i just stop and talk to it, why you’re following me? so big , so bright , gorgeous at night when no electricity sometimes , but who care if there is no electricity, because you can even sew your clothes at night with the light of the moon, have you seen that Gabriella? be carfeul though at full moon in comoros you can walk at 2 am in the morning and think it’s day, so keep your watch in hand please otherewise you will be lost. The meaning of comoros is the moon islands, now you know why. we’re muslim and comoran people are very gentle and very proud people, sondon’t expect to see someone in remote villages come and begg you money, we will come to help you out and we will open our house for you freely so to discover our culture.try also to learn 2 to 3 local words, people will love you more: yedje (how are you), marahaba (thank you) lala wunono ( good bye) massihu memam ( good night). we cook different cultural menus, you can feel indian spices sometimes, but we have also the french baguette (don’t forget france is with us!).

Thank you for your comment 🙂

Very useful informations. Wrote well! I just consider spontaneous trip to Comoros,so it was fine to found your website! Thank you!

Thank you so much! Nice to hear that it was useful.

Hi Gabriela, great to read your blog, so little information on the web about Comoros. I cannot remember how I came across these islands this year, but after a bit of research on Google, I decided I wanted to visit. I am now all booked up and ready to go in September 2019. I do have a question for you though if you can advise, is it possible to travel around Comoros with just Euro’s or do should I get local cash in Moroni ?

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Comoros travel guide

Not your typical tropical island getaway, Comoros may lay claim to sandy shores, limpid oceans and colourful coral reefs, but the archipelago’s greatest asset is its fascinating culture, which fuses together the most colourful elements of Africa and Arabia.

Floating between Mozambique and Madagascar, the archipelago has long been a crossroads between civilisations and most Comorians are of mixed Afro-Arab descent. A blend of Swahili and traditional Islamic influences pervade the islands giving them a calm and phlegmatic atmosphere that guarantees a hospitable welcome.

The four main islands that comprise sleepy Comoros do not share the tourist infrastructure of the Seychelles or Mauritius (with the exception of Mayotte), but they do share the warm seas, deserted beaches and stunning hiking that these destinations are renowned for.

Most travellers enter the country via the capital, Moroni, which nestles on the island of Grande Comore and hums with the atmosphere and traditional customs of a long-forgotten outpost. Men drink tea beneath whitewashed buildings in the Arab Quarter, as they have done for decades, while women in brightly coloured East African fabrics smile shyly from ornate doorways.

Also known as the Perfume Islands, the smell of vanilla, cloves and other spices is ever-present in Comoros, and locals are proud to produce more Ylang-Ylang essence for the perfume industry than anywhere else.

Leave fragrant Moroni behind and trek to the summit of Mount Karthala, also on Grande Comore. The archipelago’s highest peak, at just under 2,400m (7,800ft), this lofty vantage point happens to be one of the region’s most active volcanoes. The views are exquisite.

For a taste of France pay a visit to Mayotte, which, due to a quirk in colonial history is now governed from Paris. Arguably the most developed of the islands, it has a distinctly Gallic air, adding more depth to these already characterful islands.

2,235 sq km (863 sq miles).

807,118 (UN estimate 2016).

349.4 per sq km.

Federal Islamic Republic.

President Azali Assoumani since 2019.

Travel Advice

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) provides advice about risks of travel to help British nationals make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice .

Before you travel

No travel can be guaranteed safe. Read all the advice in this guide and any specific travel advice that applies to you:

• women travellers
• disabled travellers

LGBT+ travellers

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also sign up to get email notifications when this advice is updated.

Travel insurance

If you choose to travel, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance . Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency.

This advice reflects the UK government’s understanding of current rules for people travelling on a full ‘British citizen’ passport from the UK, for the most common types of travel.

The authorities in Comoros set and enforce entry rules. If you’re not sure how these requirements apply to you, contact the Comoros Embassy in Paris (in French).     

COVID-19 rules

There are no COVID-19 testing or vaccination requirements for travellers entering Comoros.

Passport validity requirements

To enter Comoros, your passport must have an ‘expiry date’ at least 6 months after the date you arrive.

Check with your travel provider that your passport and other travel documents meet requirements. Renew your passport if you need to.

You will be denied entry if you do not have a valid travel document or try to use a passport that has been reported lost or stolen.

Visa requirements

You must have a visa to enter or travel through Comoros. You can buy a visa for 30 euros when you arrive at Hahaya airport or other points of entry.

Vaccination requirements

At least 8 weeks before your trip, check the vaccinations and certificates you need in TravelHealthPro’s Comoros guide .

Customs rules

There are strict rules about goods you can take into or out of Comoros . You must declare anything that may be prohibited or subject to tax or duty.

There is a high threat of terrorist attack globally affecting UK interests and British nationals, including from groups and individuals who view the UK and British nationals as targets. Stay aware of your surroundings at all times.    

UK Counter Terrorism Policing has information and advice on staying safe abroad and what to do in the event of a terrorist attack. Find out how to reduce your risk from terrorism while abroad .

Terrorism in Comoros

Although there’s no recent history of terrorism in Comoros, attacks cannot be ruled out. 

Political situation

Presidential and governor elections took place on 14 January 2024 and provisional results were announced on 16 January.

There were post-election protests in Moroni and other parts of Grande Comore, Anjouan and Mohéli. Some roads were blocked and travel in Moroni and between the international airport and the city was difficult. At least one protestor was killed and several injured in clashes with security forces. Since 20 January protests have ended. An overnight nationwide curfew has been lifted and flights between the islands have resumed.

There is still a risk of further election-related unrest. Avoid crowds and demonstrations, and follow the advice and instructions of local authorities.

Due to a longstanding dispute between Comoros and France about the island of Mayotte, there is some anti-French sentiment in Comoros and occasional demonstrations on the issue. Monitor local media to keep up to date with developments.

Crime levels are low, but take precautions against pickpocketing. Street crime such as robbery is rare, but avoid walking alone at night, including on beaches or in town centres.

Protecting your belongings

Keep your valuables, cash and important documents in hotel safes where possible.

Laws and cultural differences

Personal id.

Always travel with your ID. Keep printed copies of your passport’s photo page and visa stamp.

Comoros is an Islamic country. The official religion is Sunni Islam. People are not allowed to practise Shia Islam in Comoros.

Respect local traditions, customs, laws and religious practices. Make sure you do not offend cultural or religious beliefs.

Dress and behaviour codes

Clothing for men and women needs to cover the body loosely, from the shoulders to the knees.

Islanders mostly consider outward displays of intimacy to be contrary to public decency. 

All matters of religious practice and custom are given particular importance by the people and authorities throughout the year. This importance is especially heightened during the month of Ramadan.

Ramadan is a holy month for Muslims. The dates vary by year and country. Check the year’s Ramadan dates before you travel. During this time of Ramadan do not:

• eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in public in the daytime, including in your car or in public view
• play loud music or dance
• swear in public

Get more advice when you arrive from your tour guide, hotel or business contacts.

You should also: 

• check opening hours of shops and restaurants
• be aware that if hotels and restaurants are providing food or drink in fasting hours, they may separate you from Islamic guests, for example with screens
• follow local dress codes – clothing that does not meet local dress codes may cause more offence at this time
• be aware that fasting can cause tiredness, particularly during the later afternoon and early evening
• be patient and show tolerance

Alcohol laws and bans

It is possible to buy alcohol in Comoros, for example at hotels, but drinking alcohol or being drunk on public highways is illegal. Offences are punishable by fines or even imprisonment.

Pay particular attention to these rules during the Ramadan period.

Illegal drugs and prison sentences

Drug trafficking and possession are serious offences. If you are found guilty, you could get a long prison sentence and a fine.

Using cameras in secure areas     

It is advisable to ask people for permission before photographing them. Avoid taking photos of public buildings, particularly military and police buildings.

Same-sex sexual activity is illegal in Comoros. If convicted you could get a prison sentence of up to 5 years and heavy fines.

Read more advice for LGBT+ travellers .

There are very few banks or ATMs in Grande Comore or on the other islands. People in Comoros mainly use cash. Credit cards are not always accepted – check in advance if your hotel accepts your card.

Technical or connection issues with equipment may also make it difficult to pay by card so always have cash available. Some hotels and restaurants accept foreign currencies such as euros. However, they will give you change in Comorian francs.

Transport risks

Road travel.

If you are planning to drive in Comoros, see information on driving abroad .

You can use a UK photocard driving licence to drive in Comoros for up to 3 months. If you still have a paper driving licence, you may need to update it to a photocard licence  or get the correct version of the international driving permit (IDP) as well.

If you need an extension after 3 months, go to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs at Rue du place de l’indépendance des Comores à Moroni or visit their Facebook page: Ministère des Affaires Etrangères de l’Union des Comores .

On Grande Comore, the main ring-road is of a reasonable standard, but many other roads are in poor condition.

The UK Air Safety List (ASL) lists all known airlines in Comoros that do not meet international safety standards and are banned from operating commercial air services to, from, and within the UK. Check the UK Air Safety List when considering which airlines to fly with. The list is maintained by the Department for Transport, based on advice from the UK Civil Aviation Authority .

Boats and ferries take passengers between the 3 islands. They can be overloaded, in poor condition and without life jackets. Overloaded vessels have capsized in Comorian waters with significant loss of life.  

Recent attacks off the coast of Somalia and the Gulf of Aden highlight the significant risk of piracy and armed robbery. International naval counter-piracy forces strongly advise all sailing yachts to remain outside the designated high-risk area to avoid hijacking. See piracy and armed robbery .

Extreme weather and natural disasters

Find out what you can do to prepare for and respond to extreme weather and natural hazards . 

Tropical cyclones

Tropical cyclones can affect Comoros between January and May. Monitor local news and check World Meteorological Organization weather reports for Comoros .  

Volcanic eruptions

Karthala, near Moroni on Grande Comore, is an active volcano which last erupted in 2007. Check Karthala’s most recent reports and monitoring before you make plans to visit.

Before you travel check that:

• your destination can provide the healthcare you may need
• you have appropriate travel insurance for local treatment or unexpected medical evacuation

This is particularly important if you have a health condition or are pregnant.

Emergency medical number

Call hospitals and ask for an ambulance.

• Grande Comore, hopital El Maarouf: +269 773 26 04
• Mohéli, hopital de Fomboni: +269 772 03 73
• Anjouan, hopital de Hombo: +269 771 00 34

Contact your insurance company promptly if you’re referred to a medical facility for treatment.

Vaccinations and health risks

At least 8 weeks before your trip check:

• the latest information on vaccination recommendations and health risks in TravelHealthPro’s Comoros guide
• where to get vaccines and whether you have to pay on the NHS travel vaccinations page

The legal status and regulation of some medicines prescribed or bought in the UK can be different in other countries.

Read best practice when travelling with medicines on TravelHealthPro .

The NHS has information on whether you can take your medicine abroad .

Healthcare facilities in Comoros

Medical facilities on all 3 islands of Comoros are basic and most are private. Disruptions to electricity and water supplies can affect hospitals and other public services.

Makes sure you have adequate travel insurance and accessible funds to cover the cost of any medical treatment and repatriation.

FCDO has a list of English-speaking doctors in Comoros .

There is also guidance on healthcare if you’re living in Comoros .

Travel and mental health

Read FCDO guidance on travel and mental health . There is also mental health guidance on TravelHealthPro .

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) cannot provide tailored advice for individual trips. Read this travel advice and carry out your own research before deciding whether to travel.

Emergency services in Comoros 

Fire: 113 or 114

Police: 117

Contact your travel provider and insurer

Contact your travel provider and your insurer if you are involved in a serious incident or emergency abroad. They will tell you if they can help and what you need to do.

Refunds and changes to travel

For refunds or changes to travel, contact your travel provider. You may also be able to make a claim through insurance. However, insurers usually require you to talk to your travel provider first.

Find out more about changing or cancelling travel plans , including:

• where to get advice if you are in a dispute with a provider
• how to access previous versions of travel advice to support a claim

Support from FCDO

FCDO has guidance on staying safe and what to do if you need help or support abroad, including:

• dealing with a  death abroad
• being  arrested or imprisoned abroad
• getting help if you’re a  victim of crime
• what to do if you’re  in hospital
• if you’re affected by a crisis , such as a terrorist attack

Contacting FCDO

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also sign up to get email notifications when this travel advice is updated.

You can also contact FCDO online .

Help abroad in an emergency

If you are in Comoros and you need emergency help from the UK government, contact the British Embassy in Antananarivo, Madagascar who provide consular assistance for Comoros. 

FCDO in London

You can call FCDO in London if you need urgent help because something has happened to a friend or relative abroad.

Telephone: 020 7008 5000 (24 hours)

Find out about call charges

Book a Hotel

© Columbus Travel Media Ltd. All rights reserved 2024

• 3 Other destinations
• 4.1 Climate
• 4.2 Landscape
• 4.3 History
• 4.4 Religion
• 5.1 Grand Comore
• 6.1 By plane
• 6.2 By boat
• 7.1 By plane
• 7.3 By public transport
• 7.4 By boat
• 10.2 Shopping
• 16 Stay safe
• 17 Stay healthy

The Comoros (Arabic: جزر القمر Juzur al-Qumur ) is an island nation off the coast of East Africa , in the Indian Ocean between northern Mozambique and northern Madagascar .

Mayotte is claimed by Comoros, but administered by France .

• -11.703611 43.253611 1 Moroni — the country's capital, on Grande Comore
• -12.36666 43.716667 4 Nioumachoua — second largest town of Moheli, on the southern coast
• -12.16672 44.39944 5 Moutsamoudou — the capital of Anjouan

Other destinations

• -11.76028 43.35306 1 Mount Karthala — an active volcano and the highest peak in Comoros, famous for its crater.

All of the islands have many beautiful beach destinations, being Moheli the one that offers the best nature and water sports opportunities.

One of the world's poorest countries, Comoros is made up of three islands that have inadequate transportation links, a young and rapidly increasing population, and few natural resources.

Comoros is also the smallest nation in the Arab World by population.

The name Comoros originates from qamar , Arabic for moon.

The economy of the Comoros is agrarian and based on subsistence agriculture and fishing. Due to the low level of education of the workforce, unemployment is high. The country's main exports are vanilla, cloves and ylang-ylang. An important sector of the Comorian economy is remittances from emigrants; More Comorians live outside the country than inside, mainly in Mayotte , Réunion and in Metropolitan France , especially Marseille . Representing 25% of GDP, remittances from Comorian emigrants constitute an important source of flows for the country's economy.

Located just south of the equator, the Comoros Islands have a tropical maritime climate, characterized by two seasons according to rainfall. The best season to visit the Comoros is between May and November, during the dry season when the climate is cool and relatively dry, while from December to April is hot and humid. The maximum temperature may vary between 31ºC in December and 27ºC in August, while the average minimum vary between 23ºC in February and 19ºC in July.

Volcanic islands whose interiors vary from steep mountains to low hills, with the highest point, Le Karthala (on Grand Comore), at 2,361 m.

The islands of Comoros have been settled by a succession of diverse groups from the coast of Africa, Persian Gulf, Malay Archipelago and Madagascar. Swahili settlers first reached the islands as part of the great Bantu expansion that took place throughout the first millennium.

In 933 CE, Al-Masudi refers to Omani sailors, who call the Comoros "The Perfume Islands" and sing of waves that break rhythmically along broad, pearl-sand beaches, the light breezes scented with ylang-ylang, a component to many perfumes.

From the 11th to 15th centuries, trade with the island of Madagascar and merchants from the Middle East flourished, smaller villages emerged, and existing towns expanded. After the 15th century up to the 18th century the Comoros, specifically Anjouan, were a common stopping point for European merchants and voyagers traveling towards the Indian Ocean.

Portuguese explorers visited the islands of the archipelago in 1505 on the Cape Route . By 1506, the Portuguese landed on the islands and began to challenge the Bajas (Bantu Muslim chiefs) and Fanis (lesser chiefs).

The French started to colonize the islands in 1841, ultimately gaining full control of all the islands in 1908.

In 1973, France agreed to give the islands independence, depending on the results of referenda on each island. Grand Comore, Moheli and Anjouan all voted overwhelmingly in favor, but Mayotte voted to remain part of France and has therefore remained under French control.

Comoros has endured 20 coups or attempted coups since gaining independence from France in 1975. In 1997, the islands of Anjouan and Moheli declared independence from Comoros. In 1999, military chief Col. Azali seized power. He pledged to resolve the secessionist crisis through a confederal arrangement named the 2000 Fomboni Accord. In December 2001, voters approved a new constitution and presidential elections took place in the spring of 2002. Each island in the archipelago elected its own president and a new union president took office in May 2002.

97% of Comoros is roughly Muslim, making it rank one of the 20 most religious countries, however, there is a smaller minority of Catholics.

The official languages are French and Arabic . Most Comorians speak their own language known as Shikomori (Comorian), which is a group of Swahili dialects, as a first language and French as a second. Some can also speak Arabic.

Finding a fluent English speaker is a very rare occurrence. However, an educated person will know a few words in English. Your best bet would be to learn French, which has a strong influence on media, education and business.

Each island has its own dialect. The greetings below are not necessarily direct translations.

Greetings nearly always follow this pattern:

Grand Comore

• Yedje? ( How are you? ), response: Ndjema ( good )
• Bariza? ( News? ), response: Ndjema
• Mahabari ( News? ), response: Salimina ( peaceful )
• Hufanyiha dje? ( How are you? ), response: Ndjema
• Na kozazidi? ( And problems? ), response: Raha ( Not yet )
• E ngawe mnono? ( Your health? ), response: Alhamdulilah ( Thanks to Allah )
• Jeje? ( how are you? )
• Ndjema ( good )
• Gushindu? ( your health is good? )
• Ewa ( yes )
• Kumnono? ( you feel good? )
• Habari ( you are well? )
• Salaama ( at peace )

Any series of words with habari in it requires a response of salaama . Shikomor has various extensions of the habari greeting to indicate time of day, such as habarizaho or habarizasobwuhi .

Other necessary words:

• Marahaba ( thank you )
• Marahaba menji ( thank you very much )
• Swamahani ( Sorry/pardon me )
• Pvapvo ( there; used to tell a taxi driver where you want them to stop )
• Pvano ( here; same as above, but the driver will likely slam on the brakes )

Everyone requires a visa to visit to the Comoros, which is issued on arrival. A normal visa costs 15 000 CF (around €30). Children under 10 are free. It can be paid in Comorian francs (CF, or KMF), US dollars, British pounds or euros. A visa lasts 45 days, and can be extended, but only with a compelling reason (i.e. the authorities won't accept "I want to stay longer" as a reason).

As of April 2022, Comoros visa is issued on arrival at Moroni airport. Have the exact amount in cash, because change might not be given. There is a ATM just outside the airport terminal. Although it did not work in April 2022, so bring euros or US dollars when entering the country. The immigration paperwork asks that you list a place of residence for your stay in the Comoros, but it is not checked. After immigration, Customs officials may search your luggage.

• Kenya Airways flies direct from Nairobi , thrice a week, connecting with London , Dubai , Mumbai and Paris flights
• Ethiopian Airlines flies direct daily from Addis Ababa via Dar es Salaam , connecting with over 100 international destinations
• Air Austral flies from Paris and Marseilles with change of planes in Saint Denis, Reunion
• Inter Iles Air flies from Mayotte to Anjouan and Moroni several times a week
• Air Madagascar and Madagasikara Airways both fly from Antananarivo and Majunga in Madagascar
• Air Tanzania flies from Dar es Salaam
• Ewa air flies from Mayotte
• Turkish airlines has a seasonal route from Istanbul

There are freighters that leave from Zanzibar or Dar es Salaam (in Tanzania) and Madagascar. These are cheaper than flying, usually, but take longer and departure dates are less reliable. To catch these you must find the boat captain at the harbour and discuss prices. If you bargain very hard, you may get passage for €100.

Int'Air Îles flies between Moroni, Anjouan, and Moheli daily. In Moroni their office is near the Volo Volo Market.

It's possible to rent cars on Grand Comore for approximately CF15,000 to CF25,000 a day, depending on the type of car. In Moheli there are no rental agencies, but still you might try to rent a car or motorbike directly to a local with the help of your hotel. Petrol price varies from island to island. While you may pay CF600 per litre in Grand Comore, the price in Moheli (where petrol is scarce) can rise up to CF1000 per litre.

Each island has a mainroad around the island. Road conditions can be really bad on certain sections, but still doable by regular vehicles without 4WD.

Hitch-hiking is a very common practice among locals, specially in Moheli were there are fewer transportation options. If you look like a tourist, some fee may be requested. As the locals have no access to public transport and children have to walk to and from school, tourists with a car may wish to consider aiding hitch-hikers.

By public transport

Each capital is connected by bus with the villages on their respective island main road. Buses are usually packed, have no fixed schedule and stop running well before sunset.

Shared taxis are the most common mode of public transport within cities.

Speedboats operate from Chindini on the southern coast of Grand Comore, to Hoani on the northern coast of Moheli. These boats are small fibreglass fishing boats with boat and engines in variable condition. They should be taken only on days when the sea is calm, as passengers have been forced to off-load baggage into the sea and there are rumours boats being lost. However, these boats are generally safe to take on calm days. It is anyway always wise to ask for a life vest. Boats depart from Chindini every morning and the trip takes about one hour. The price is CF10,000 as of 2008, plus an additional CF500 council departure tax. Some tourists have been requested a special permit from the police.

Cargo vessels covering the route between the three island's capitals also accept passengers. You'll have to ask at the port or find an agency, and expect longer travel times (up to 12 hours from Moroni to Moheli). The price from Moroni to Fomboni in Moheli is CF10,000 per person.

The company Maria Galanta operates the route Moroni—Moutsamoudou (Anjouan)—Dzaoudzi (Mayotte) twice per week. As of October 2018, the boat leaves from Moroni Thursdays and Sundays, and return trip is Wednesdays and Saturdays. Duration of each leg is 5 hours. The price to Anjouan is €36 one way, and €140-158 all the way to Mayotte. Maximum baggage allowance is 20 kg plus 10 kg of hand baggage.

• Dolphins off the coast beyond Hahaya
• Livingstone Bats at Moheli
• Giant Sea Turtles laying eggs at Itsamiya on Moheli
• Swahili-inspired architecture with arcades
• White sand beaches - Maloudja beach in Mitsamiouli is probably the most beautiful and most popular. Other popular beach destinations, some with bungalows nearby, include Ndroude and Bouni in the northeast of Grande Comore, Chomoni in the southeast, and Chindini in the south.
• Moroni old mosque and medina next to it famous for its narrow streets and maze-like architecture.
• Dragon's Tail - This impressive mountain peninsula jutting off of Grande Comore is located just outside the northeastern village of Ivoini and is a beautiful spectacle and an exciting hike.
• Turtle Island - also called Choua cha Ndroude in Shingazidja or Île des Tortues in French, this island is the only peripheral island surrounding Grande Comore located in the northeastern village of Ndroude . Depending on the time of the month, at low tide you can walk from the beach right to the island and spend a couple hours enjoying the sea breeze, taking in the sunshine, and watching local fishermen catch fish nearby. Bring footwear as the volcanic rocks get very hot in the sun.
• Palace of Kaviridjeo - built in the 16th century, these ruins in the village of Iconi just south of Moroni used to be the home of the Sultan of Bambao until the 19th century, when the final sultan, Said Ali bin Said Omar, united all the different sultanates on Grande Comore to form Ngazidja , then signed an agreement allowing the French to colonize the island. A large, modern mosque also sits across the street, featuring a large pool that fills at high tide and drains at low tide. Between the two is a small plaque memorializing the victims of a massacre led by former president Ali Soilih's youth brigade in the 1970s.
• The Moheli Marine Reserve off the coast of Nioumachoua , amongst the beautiful peripheral islands to the south.

• Treks such as the Karthala volcano crater (8 hours one way). Guides available for €100. This is possible to do as a one long day hike for €60 or overnight at a basecamp (a group of tin sheds)
• Deep sea diving, snorkelling
• Sailing on a dhow
• Swimming with dolphins - there are multiple places on Grande Comore that offer this, with Itsandra just north of Moroni being the most popular and costing CF10,000.
• Swimming with manta rays - an activity exclusive to Nioumachoua on Moheli, seeing the manta rays is often hit or miss, but the staff at Laka Lodge hotel can organize this trip and the guides are experts at seeking them out.
• Hiking - there are numerous places for this, including in the northeast of Grande Comore, where dozens of small mountains, most including small trails for farmers to reach their fields, dot the landscape; Chezani and other neighboring villages are good jumping-off points for this. You can also hike from Fomboni , the capital of Moheli, to Nioumachoua . It is a challenging and lengthy but beautiful and rewarding trek. Anjouan is also full of swooping peaks and gorgeous waterfalls ready to be climbed. A large, intimidating mountain also sits in the village of Iconi on Grande Comore and has a very simple path to the top with some impressive views of the village and surrounding area, though the beginning of the trail is hidden next to a small corner store and you'll probably have to ask a local to show you.

The country's currency is the Comorian franc , on Moheli denoted by the symbol " CF " (ISO code: KMF ). Often, tourists will be given the price also in euros, even if just for reference. In those cases, an invariable exchange rate of €1 = CF500 is used.

Coins of the Comorian franc are issued in denominations of CF25, CF50, CF100 and CF250. Banknotes of the Comorian franc are issued in denominations of CF500, CF1,000, CF2,000, CF5,000 and CF10,000.

It is best to bring euro notes to the island. They can be exchanged at most shops for slightly better than the official rate (€1 = 500 francs). Note that barely noticeable torn banknotes won't be exchanged. There are four ATMs in Moroni in roughly the same area, however travellers report they are often broken and cannot be relied on. Banks may charge about 10% of withdrawal amount as transaction fees. Therefore it's more cost efficient to bring Euros cash. Other hard currency might be exchanged at a bureau de change.

Handicrafts are not usually of good quality, though women of Mayotte as well as a few women in Grand Comore make quality baskets. One can buy CDs, colourful cloths that women wear (CF500 for a numbawani and CF750 for a finer shawl), beautiful scarves (CF2,000) and other imports.

Most handicrafts and tourist curios for sale at Volo Volo market in Moroni are made in Madagascar, and sold by Malagasy expatriates in the market. Local crafts are hard to find, but some are available at CNAC in Itsandra. Unique Comorian gifts can be found in other parts of Volo Volo market. Consider locally grown spices and essential oils, home made lamps and vegetable peelers, or products made from coconuts.

Do not buy shells from vendors on the beach.

Because the Comoros are isolated islands, prices tend to be more expensive than the rest of East Africa. The cheapest hotels or bungalows in Moroni (the most expensive lodging region of the Comoros) may cost €20 or as little as €10 if you bargain hard. On the other hand, Hotel Moroni may cost hundreds. Imported goods are cheaper on Grand Comore than Moheli, but fruits and vegetables are cheaper, if less available, on Moheli. Meals in a brochetterie (cheap restaurant that serves fried meat and bananas, manioc, taro, or breadfruit) may cost up to CF1500 (€3) on Grand Comore and as little as CF250 (€0.50) on Moheli. Cakes (sweet bread) sold by women on the street generally cost around CF50-100 each. One could get by on around CF6,000-10,000 (€12-20) per day for food and lodging.

Visitors are advised not to eat any of the local food unless it has been cooked through. One speciality available on the island is the jackfruit, a large, green fruit (about 50 cm in length) with a taste resembling lychee.

As for a small island country surrounded by the Ocean, fish and seafood is the main quality food source for Comorians. Men sail away from the island early morning in boats to come back before dusk with a fish to sell.

Interesting food itinerary would be to observe men coming back from the sea with their catches. This is next to a harbour. Many locals are already hanging around there to buy fish, meet friends and just pass time. Sometimes fisherman returns with a bigger fishes for example swordfish. Later go to Volo Volo market to see the same fish being sold and butchered. As a conclusion to the trip, visit local restaurants throughout the city to taste sea goods. Daily menu will vary depending on the catch of the day.

Delicious and popular Comorian foods include:

• mabawa - chicken wings, usually coated in a marinade of dijon mustard, mayonnaise, peppers, garlic, salt, and onion, perhaps with other variations, and grilled. You'll find plenty of mabawa vendors at night in Moroni and many of the villages and especially around the Volovolo area. Often served with grilled breadfruit , cassava , or green bananas , as well as putu , a spicy pepper-based sauce that varies in heat, flavor, and color depending on who makes it and what other ingredients they include.
• trama - grilled corn, most available from January to April.
• madaba - cassava leaves, mashed with a huge mallet into a sort of paste with peppers, garlic, and other ingredients before being boiled and served with rice and sometimes with fish chopped up inside.
• mkatre foutra - a small, round, savory bread eaten for breakfast, usually sold for CF100 each.
• sambusa - the Comorian version of a samosa. Contains shredded fish and spices, though each person's sambusa will taste different. Depending on size and where you buy them, they can cost anywhere from CF25 to 100.

Nice, European-style restaurants exist in the capital and larger villages on all of the islands.

• -11.671408 43.265869 1 Le Coraya , Bandamadji, Itsandra, Grande Comore , ☏ +269 358 88 88 . M-Th 08:00-23:30, F Sa 08:00-01:00, Su 09:00-23:45 . It is in the village of Itsandra just north of Moroni, Le Coraya offers everything from burgers to pizza to pasta to seafood, as well as alcohol and hookah. Enjoy a relaxing meal as well as some of the best restaurant views in Comoros, as it sits right on the Indian Ocean next to the beach. €6-20 for a main . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.716047 43.246022 2 Le Coraya Express , Boulevard de la République Populaire de China, Moroni ( across the street from the Sawa Prix supermarket and the École Française Henri Matisse, a few blocks down from the French Embassy ), ☏ +269 326 87 87 . 10:30-22:00 . A smaller version of Le Coraya with limited hours, a smaller menu, and a much less spectacular view. Especially known for its pizza and sandwiches. Another Le Coraya Express location is also inside the Hahaya airport. €4-9 . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.68902 43.253015 3 New Mumbai , Rue de la Corniche, Hankounou, Moroni ( across from the Alliance Française sits a gas station and a travel agency, with the entrance to the restaurant sandwiched in-between ), ☏ +269 339 59 34 . A quaint little restaurant serving Indian and Chinese food right by the ocean. Sitting by the ocean gives you the best sea breeze, but you also run the risk of seeing local men bathing naked in the water nearby. To get here from Moroni, tell a taxi driver you're going to Alliance Française, otherwise they likely won't know where to go. Mains €6-10 . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.69101 43.252678 4 L'Escale , Rue de la Corniche, Moroni ( across the street from the medical lab ), ☏ +269 343 96 57 . Su-Th 11:00-22:30, closed Friday . Classy restaurant featuring more traditional Comorian food and a lot of seafood, as well as sporadic live entertainment. As of spring 2020, bungalows are being constructed on the grounds. €6-12 . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.709701 43.249436 5 Wasta , Caltex, Moroni ( on Rue Itsambuni, turn onto the side street that intersects directly across from the former airport ), ☏ +269 358 77 75 . 07:00-23:00 . The closest thing to fast food you'll find in Comoros, Wasta has cheeseburgers, pizza, burritos, fries, and even birthday cakes. €3-10 . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.688847 43.255646 6 MoCafe , Matelec Oasis, Moroni ( up the street from the Alliance Française or down the street from the end of Volovolo ), ☏ +269 773 22 06 . M-Sa 07:00-23:00, Su 07:00-12:00 . A stylish little cafe featuring lots of Comorian and French baked goods, as well as sandwiches, tea, sodas, and fresh juice. €2-6 for bread or a sandwich . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.693094 43.256204 7 Nassib , Volovolo Market, Moroni ( walking down the street through Volovolo it's about halfway through ). 06:00-22:00 . A combination cafe and restaurant in the middle of Volovolo, the porch outside is the best place to sit for a tea and traditional bread in the morning or a delicious burger and fries in the afternoon. Other Nassib franchises are located in a few other locations in Moroni. €2-8 for a bread or a full meal . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.689669 43.254034 8 Tennis Club , Rue de la Corniche, Moroni , ☏ +269 436 11 03 . Combination restaurant, bar, and actual tennis club. Serves some of the best Western cuisine in Comoros, as well as some of the best wine. Sit down for a nice meal or go to play a game of tennis on their courts. ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.382249 43.300149 9 Chez Nini , Sima-Maloudja, Mitsamiouli, Grande Comore ( From the RN 1 in Mitsamiouli, follow the dirt path near the beach toward the wedding hall until you reach the restaurant. ), ☏ +269 430 05 15 . Tu-Th 17:00-22:00, F Su 11:00-22:00, Sa 11:00-00:00, closed Monday . A bit hidden from the main road in Mitsamiouli but on the way to the best beach in town, Chez Nini offers seafood, chicken, traditional local vegetable dishes, desserts, and alcohol. They also hold different events and parties for special occasions like the New Year, so keep an eye on their Facebook page around days like that to see if anything exciting is going on. From Tuesday to Thursday only the bar is open and food will not be served. €6-12 . ( updated May 2020 )

Alcohol is readily available in Moroni from Indian and Chinese merchants near Volo Volo. Castle beer from South Africa and cheap boxed wine from France are common. Most higher-end restaurants will sell alcohol and there are a couple of liquor stores in Moroni; you can find places to buy alcohol because they usually have a green Heineken sign outside.

Tap water is not safe to drink, and bottled water is cheap (1.5 liters for CF400) and readily available everywhere. Despite the risks associated with the water, locally made juices are very delicious, especially tamarind , ntsongoma (strawberry guava) , pineapple , and guava .

In a pinch, you can probably find a friendly local who will welcome you into their home for the night. Ask if they prefer you to pay them for food and/or lodging. Sometimes people are welcoming you as an honoured guest and consequently it would be odd to pay.

• -11.732143 43.275926 1 Karthala International Hotel , Mvouni, Grande Comore ( on the street connecting the suburban villages of Mkazi and Mvouni, right next to the University of the Comoros ), ☏ +269 763 5212 . Check-in: 14:00 , check-out: 11:00 . USD60 . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.655921 43.264969 2 Golden Tulip Resort ( formerly Hotel Itsandra ), RN 1, Voidjou, Moroni , ☏ +269 773 3333 . On the borders between Moroni and the neighbouring villages of Itsandra and Ntsoudjini, Golden Tulip offers luxurious rooms and bungalows, air conditioning, Wifi, a kitchen and bar, and a private beach with a €4 Eentrance fee. US$104 for a double room . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.718792 43.241136 3 Retaj , Avenue Soilihi, Moroni ( at the roundabout down the street from the Sawa Prix supermarket, turn right and Retaj is located at the end of the street ), ☏ +269 773 52 78 . Probably one of the nicest hotels in Comoros, Retaj is often host to Comorian expats, foreign tourists and international businessman. Features a gym, access to the ocean, some of the best pizza in Comoros, a free breakfast buffet for guests (6 EUR for non-guests) and ylang ylang-scented shampoo in the rooms. US$60 for a double room . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.717039 43.250831 4 Moifaka Hotel , Zilimadjou, Moroni , ☏ +269 773 15 56 , [email protected] . One of the few "budget" hotels in Comoros located not too far from the Retaj. You definitely won't be staying here for the amenities: simple rooms, air conditioning, Wifi, limited TV, small free breakfast and a kitchen for guests, nice airy enclosed balconies on two floors and a large rooftop with nice views of Karthala. US$26 for a double room . ( updated May 2020 )
• -11.695991 43.251995 5 Hôtel Les Arcades , Rue de la Corniche, Moroni ( down the street from the end of Volovolo and not far from restaurants on Rue de la Corniche. ), ☏ +269 331 50 51 , [email protected] . More conveniently located than its fancier counterparts Retaj and Golden Tulip, Les Arcades offers simple rooms with air conditioning, Wifi, free breakfast, a gym, meeting rooms and a beautiful garden. US$40-50 for a double room . ( updated May 2020 )
• -12.366411 43.714325 6 Laka Lodge , Nioumachoua, Moheli , ☏ +269 342 29 60 , [email protected] . Probably the nicest hotel on Moheli, Laka Lodge offers gorgeous rooms and bungalows, Wifi, a restaurant and lots of activities, including snorkelling, swimming with dolphins and manta rays, scuba diving and the chance to spot some lemurs in the grounds. ( updated May 2020 )

Learning facilities on the islands, like most facilities, are underdeveloped. There are several schools on the island of Grand Comore, and one college. These are all severely lacking in resources and funding.

By some reckoning, this is the third poorest country in the world and workers can expect to earn only about US$1-1.5 a day for basic employment.

Comoros is a really safe country. You will feel safe walking on your own on an empty street late at night, even if you are a woman, and it is very unlikely that you will suffer any kind of theft. However, as pavements and city lights are scarce, take caution if you are walking on the road side, especially on weekend nights.

The political situation can be tense, especially in Anjouan island, where there are clashes between rebel and African Union forces. Some state that a civil war is possible. In October 2018, not long after the celebration of a referendum that reinforced the power of the president, Moutsamoudou suffered a week-long period of strike and revolts that ended with several dead.

Cyclones possible during rainy season (December to April).

Le Kartala on Grand Comore is an active volcano.

Most countries' diplomatic presence in Comoros is carried out through embassies located in nearby Madagascar, Kenya, Tanzania, Mauritius, or South Africa, though a few countries do operate full embassies or other diplomatic offices in the Comoros.

For foreign visitors who do not hold one of the above nationalities, the following select embassies will provide assistance while you're in Comoros.

Stay healthy

Malaria , including cerebral malaria, is prevalent in the Comoros. Sleep under a permethrin-treated mosquito net and take an anti-malarial. Grand Comore and Anjouan have the best medical infrastructure and you can be tested for malaria in most major towns. If you get a fever, it is wise to get tested, especially if the fever does not respond to paracetamol or does not go away. Moheli has a hospital in Fomboni. The one in Nioumachoua may occasionally be accessible.

Healthy food is not difficult to find. Eat many fruits and vegetables as well as rice. During some time of the year vegetables might be only available in small quantities in Moheli. A healthy and delicious local dish is madaba; pounded and boiled manioc leaves. But madaba takes hours to prepare, so you may not find it in restaurants. If you are fortunate enough to stay or eat with a local family, you might get to try madaba. Vegetarians should be aware that on Grand Comore locals put fish in the madaba, while on Moheli they do not. Women may experience cessation or alteration of their menstrual cycle due to poor nutrition if they stay in the Comoros for several months or longer.

Tap water is drinkable according to the National Tourism Office, however the CDC states that it is not drinkable.

Although the Comoros is a rather liberal Muslim country, it is disrespectful for women to expose their shoulders, much of their chest, knees, and especially stomach and lower back. Wear shirts or shawls that cover these areas. Locals will not expect foreign, non-Muslim women to cover their heads. When swimming, local women are fully dressed. Foreigners are not expected to do this, but shorts and a swimming shirt is more respectful than a bikini or topless swimming. Men should wear shorts below the knee, though a man wearing shorter shorts is less offensive than a woman doing so. Public affection between men and women is not acceptable, though one may rarely see a Comorian man and woman holding hands briefly (in the nightclubs some locals seem to ignore Muslim convention).

Non-Muslim religious proselytizing is illegal, as is giving Bibles to locals. Locals are very tolerant and friendly towards non-Muslims, but do not attempt to convert them.

Drinking alcohol in public is disrespectful, though it occurs in nightclubs. Restaurants generally do not serve alcohol unless they cater to foreigners.

To greet an elder, you say "kwesi". The elder says something like "mbona, mkana baraka" to which you respond "salaama".

It is a big mistake to hand out sweets to children on the street. Since locals are unused to tourists, this rarely occurs and they are usually just happy to talk with you, children included. Once tourists begin handing out gifts and money, locals will see Westerners as rich and free with money, destroying many opportunities for a human connection with them. Children will harass tourists for sweets and money. Tourists who do this are showing themselves to be disrespectful of locals, such as by assuming that money/sweets is what they want from tourists and by putting that in between them rather than making an effort to get to know locals, and ignorant of the consequences of their actions.

Since, allegedly, it was discovered that a Western man, resident of Grand Comore for 14 years, had been making pornographic videos and photographs, as well as violating children on the islands, the residents are quite averse to being filmed or photographed. Individual reactions may vary upon being photographed, but taking unauthorised photographs of the locals will, at best, offend an individual and can potentially lead to violent reactions by the subject.

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Comoros: Your Ultimate Travel Guide to the Archipelago

Tucked away in the cobalt embrace of the Indian Ocean lies a hidden paradise few have had the privilege to explore: Comoros. This enchanting archipelago, with its tapestry of cultures, majestic landscapes, and untouched beaches, promises an adventure that’s distinct from any other tropical destination.

Table of Contents

Quick Facts About Comoros

The Comoros archipelago, often overlooked in mainstream travel circuits, boasts a plethora of intriguing tidbits that make it a noteworthy destination. Here’s a condensed guide to its key attributes:

• Capital: Moroni, located on Grande Comore, serves not only as the political heart of Comoros but also as its cultural and economic epicenter.
• Official Languages: Comorian (Shikomor), French, and Arabic. Interestingly, Shikomor is a blend of Swahili and Arabic, spoken in various dialects across the islands.
• Currency: The Comorian franc (KMF) is the official currency. It’s wise to have cash on hand as not all places accept credit cards. ATMs are available mainly in Moroni.

Comorian franc current exchange rates

• 100 KMF = $0.22 or $1 = 452.45 Comorian franc
• 100 KMF = €0.20 or €1 = 488.98 Comorian franc

Other currencies:

• 100 KMF = 0.17 British Pounds
• 100 KMF = 0.34 Australian Dollar
• 100 KMF = 0.30 Canadian Dollar
• 100 KMF = 2.33 Swedish Krona
• 100 KMF = 0.88 Polish Zloty
• 100 KMF = 5.04 Czech Koruna
• 100 KMF = 305.01 South Korean Won
• 100 KMF = 1.60 Chinese Yuan
• 100 KMF = 34.64 Japanese Yen
• Religion: Predominantly Islam, with almost the entire population identifying as Sunni Muslims.
• Climate: Tropical maritime, characterized by moderate temperatures and two main seasons – the hot, humid and rainy season (November to April) and the cool, dry season (May to October).
• Geography: An archipelago located between Madagascar and the coast of Mozambique, consisting of four main islands: Ngazidja (Grande Comore), Mwali (Mohéli), Nzwani (Anjouan), and Maore (Mayotte).
• Economy: Largely driven by agriculture, with vanilla, cloves, and ylang-ylang as some of its primary exports. The country also depends on remittances and foreign aid.
• Wildlife: Comoros houses a range of unique species, owing to its isolation. From the Livingstone’s fruit bat to Coelacanths found in its waters, it’s a biodiversity hotspot.
• UNESCO World Heritage Sites: The Coelacanth’s Habitat in Comoros, recognized for its scientific importance in studying living fossils.

Top Attractions in Comoros

The Comoros, with its pristine beauty and untouched landscapes, offers travelers a unique mix of natural wonders, historical sites, and cultural hotspots. Let’s dive into some of the top attractions that should be on every visitor’s itinerary:

Best Time to Visit Comoros in 2024 for Beaches, Diving, and Cultural Tours. Comoros Weather Guide

The capital city is not just a political center but also a vibrant cultural hub. The old medina, with its labyrinthine streets and ancient architecture, whispers tales from the past. Don’t forget to visit the iconic Badjanani Mosque, which stands as a testament to the country’s rich Islamic heritage.

Mount Karthala

Towering over Grande Comore, this active volcano is a magnet for trekkers and nature enthusiasts. The journey to the top is challenging but rewarding, offering panoramic views of the island’s varied landscapes.

Mohéli Marine Park

A paradise for marine lovers, this park is a biodiverse haven. It is home to a myriad of marine life, from colorful coral reefs to dolphins and the rare sea turtles. Snorkeling and diving here is an experience of a lifetime.

Located near Moroni, this salt lake has an intriguing legend. Locals believe that the spirits of the dead inhabit its waters, adding a mysterious allure to its natural beauty.

Anjouan’s ancient city is a repository of history. With its old mosques, bustling markets, and traditional houses, Domoni provides a peek into the Comorian way of life that has been preserved over centuries.

Ntingui Mountain

The highest peak on Anjouan, Ntingui offers trekkers a chance to traverse through lush forests inhabited by rare bird species, culminating in breathtaking views from the summit.

Chomoni Beach

This serene beach, with its powdery white sands and turquoise waters, is an ideal spot for relaxation and sunbathing. It’s a slice of tropical paradise that perfectly embodies Comoros’ coastal charm.

Nioumachoua

Mohéli’s second-largest town, it is the gateway to some of the island’s best beaches and serves as a starting point for boat tours observing marine life.

Iconi’s Dragon Rocks

According to legend, these peculiarly shaped rocks are petrified soldiers, adding a layer of myth and mystery to their natural beauty.

Exploring these attractions provides travelers a wholesome experience of Comoros, capturing its essence from the bustling streets of Moroni to the tranquil shores of Chomoni. Whether you’re a history buff, an adventure seeker, or someone seeking solace in nature, Comoros has something to offer.

Comorian Culture & Traditions

The Comoros islands, positioned strategically at the crossroads of Africa, the Middle East, and Madagascar, have been a melting pot of various cultures and civilizations. This rich tapestry of influences is evident in the country’s traditions, customs, music, and more. Here’s an overview of the diverse culture and traditions that define this enchanting archipelago:

• Linguistic Diversity: While Shikomor, a blend of Swahili and Arabic, is the native language spoken across the islands in different dialects, French and Arabic also have official status due to historical ties.
• Religion: Islam plays a pivotal role in the daily lives of Comorians. The majority of the population adheres to Sunni Islam. The minarets, calls to prayer, and numerous mosques dotted around the islands are testaments to the religion’s influence.
• Music and Dance: Comorian music, like its culture, is a fusion. Taarab music, influenced by Arabic tones and Swahili beats, is popular. Traditional dances such as ‘Shigoma’ and the ‘Mdele’ have strong African rhythms and are integral to celebrations and ceremonies.
• Marriage and Festivities: Grand marriage ceremonies, or ‘Anda,’ are significant cultural events in Comoros. These lavish events not only serve as a rite of passage but also elevate the social status of participants. The festivities can last for weeks, involving intricate rituals, dances, and feasts.
• Dress: Traditional attire for women includes the ‘shiromani,’ a colorful long dress, and the ‘saluva,’ a scarf wrapped around the head. Men often wear ‘kandu,’ a long white robe, with a small embroidered hat known as ‘kofia.’
• Cuisine: Comorian cuisine is a delightful blend of African, French, and Arabic influences. Rice and meat are staples. Given the coastal location, seafood is prominent, often flavored with native spices like vanilla, ylang-ylang, and cardamom. Dishes such as ‘Langouste a la Vanille’ (lobster with vanilla) showcase this unique fusion.
• Art and Craft: The Comorians excel in the art of wood carving, especially doors and furniture. They also produce vibrant textiles, with ‘kanga’ (colorful wraps) being popular among women.
• Customs and Etiquette: Respect for elders is deeply ingrained in the Comorian way of life. Greetings are crucial, and it’s customary to inquire about one’s health and family. When invited to a Comorian home, it’s polite to bring a small gift as a token of appreciation.
• Conservation Traditions: The locals have deep-rooted respect for their environment. This is evident in their sustainable fishing practices and community-led initiatives to conserve forests and marine ecosystems.

In essence, the Comorian culture and traditions are a beautiful amalgamation of its layered history and the various civilizations that have touched its shores. For travelers, it offers an authentic experience, far from the clichéd tourist trails, allowing for a deeper understanding of the island’s soul and its resilient, vibrant people.

Getting Around Comoros

Navigating the Comoros might present challenges distinct from mainstream tourist destinations, but that’s all part of the archipelago’s untouched charm. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you traverse these scenic islands:

• Domestic Flights: The quickest way to hop between the islands is via small domestic flights. Airlines like AB Aviation and Comores Aviation offer inter-island services, primarily connecting Grande Comore, Anjouan, and Mohéli.
• Boats and Ferries: Traditional wooden boats, locally known as ’boutres’, and ferries connect the islands. While boat rides provide a closer look at the archipelago’s marine beauty, it’s essential to check the boat’s safety and weather conditions beforehand.
• Car Rentals: Renting a car, especially in Grande Comore, is an excellent way to explore at your own pace. Most rental agencies are based in Moroni, and an international driving permit is typically required.
• Taxis: Taxis are prevalent, especially in urban areas. They’re relatively inexpensive but ensure to agree on a fare before setting off, as meters are generally not used.
• Public Buses: Mini-buses or shared taxis, locally known as ‘taxi-brousse’, operate on set routes within and between towns. They’re an affordable mode of transportation but might be less comfortable than private taxis.
• Walking: Many of Comoros’ attractions, especially in Moroni and smaller towns, are best explored on foot. This allows for a more intimate experience of local life and culture.
• Bicycles: In places like Mohéli, cycling can be an efficient way to get around, especially for shorter distances. Some guesthouses and hotels offer bicycle rentals to tourists.
• Motorbike Rentals: For the more adventurous, renting a motorbike can be an option. However, ensure you’re familiar with local traffic rules and always wear a helmet.
• Road Conditions: Roads in Comoros vary in quality. While main roads in cities like Moroni are paved, many rural areas have dirt tracks. During the rainy season, some roads might be challenging to navigate.
• Travel Safety: Although Comoros is relatively safe, always stay updated about local conditions. Avoid traveling at night, especially in isolated areas. If using local boats, ensure they have life jackets and necessary safety equipment.

Accommodation in Comoros

Finding a place to stay in Comoros ranges from charming local guesthouses to more upscale lodging options. The archipelago’s growing tourism industry ensures that every traveler, irrespective of their budget, can find a comfortable place to rest. Here’s a broad overview of accommodation choices in Comoros:

• Hotels: Moroni, the capital, houses several hotels catering to different budgets. Some offer modern amenities like Wi-Fi, swimming pools, and in-house restaurants. These establishments are the go-to for travelers seeking familiar comforts.
• Guesthouses: Spread across the islands, guesthouses provide a more local experience. Run by families or local entrepreneurs, they offer a unique chance to immerse oneself in Comorian daily life. These are often the best places to savor traditional Comorian meals.
• Beach Resorts: Given Comoros’ pristine coastline, a few beach resorts, particularly on Grande Comore and Mohéli, offer a perfect blend of relaxation and luxury. These establishments might have facilities for water sports and ocean excursions.
• Bungalows: Especially in more remote areas or close to the beaches, bungalow accommodations provide a rustic experience. Made from local materials and often powered by renewable energy, they’re an eco-friendly choice for the environmentally conscious traveler.
• Eco-Lodges: For those deeply interested in nature and sustainability, Comoros has a few eco-lodges. These establishments emphasize a harmonious relationship with the environment, often providing guided nature treks and insights into local conservation efforts.
• Homestays: If you’re looking to truly immerse yourself in the Comorian way of life, consider a homestay. Living with a local family, you’ll get a firsthand experience of Comorian customs, traditions, and daily routines.
• Budget Options: For backpackers and those on a tight budget, some hostels and cheaper guesthouses offer dormitory-style accommodations or basic private rooms.
• Booking: While international booking platforms might list some of the prominent hotels and resorts in Comoros, many smaller establishments might not have an online presence. It’s a good idea to make inquiries through local tourism offices or by directly reaching out to properties.
• Location: Given the diverse landscapes in Comoros, choose your accommodation based on your activities. Whether you’re hiking Mount Karthala, diving in Mohéli, or exploring the streets of Moroni, your choice of stay can enhance your overall experience.

Useful Websites

• Comoros Tourism Official Website – The government’s official tourism page offers insights on attractions, accommodations, and other travel essentials for the Comoros Islands.
• Lonely Planet: Comoros – A trusted travel guide detailing attractions, accommodations, and background information on Comoros from a renowned global travel platform.
• TripAdvisor: Comoros – Here, travelers share their experiences, reviews, and recommendations on Comoros’ attractions, hotels, and restaurants.
• Comoros National Office of Tourism (ONTC) – The national tourism agency provides up-to-date information on attractions, events, and travel logistics for Comoros.
• Comoros Island’s Guide – A dedicated site offering travel guides, history, and cultural insights about the Comoros.
• World Travel Guide: Comoros – Comprehensive travel information, including visa requirements, local customs, and more.
• AB Aviation – A local airline that offers flights between the islands of the Comoros archipelago and other destinations.
• Comores Infos – A local news site to keep up with current events and happenings within Comoros.
• Culture Trip: Comoros – Articles and insights highlighting the culture, attractions, and unique experiences available in Comoros.

Comoros is a captivating blend of natural beauty, rich culture, and warm hospitality. Planning a trip to this enchanting archipelago requires a bit of research, but with the right resources, travelers can ensure a memorable and enriching experience. From pristine beaches to the welcoming spirit of its people, Comoros promises a journey unlike any other. Whether you’re an adventurer, a culture enthusiast, or someone seeking serenity, Comoros beckons with open arms.

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Quick Facts

Best Time To Go

Cost & Spending

Travel Tips

Regions & Highlights

What To See & Do

What To Eat

Where To Stay

Trip Planning

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COMOROS TRAVEL GUIDE

The Comoros is a volcanic archipelago off Africa’s east coast, in the warm Indian Ocean waters of the Mozambique Channel. The nation state’s largest island, Grande Comore (Ngazidja) is ringed by beaches and old lava from active Mt. Karthala volcano. Around the port and medina in the capital, Moroni, are carved doors and a white collonaded mosque, the Ancienne Mosquée du Vendredi, recalling the islands’ Arab heritage. One of the world's poorest countries, Comoros is made up of three islands that have inadequate transportation links, a young and rapidly increasing population, and few natural resources.

• Capital: Moroni
• Currency: Comoran franc (KMF)
• Area: 2,170 sq km
• Population: 832 322 (2018)
• Language: Arabic (official), French (official), Shikomoro (official; also known as Shimasiwa).
• Religion: Sunni Muslim 98%, Roman Catholic 2%

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POSTS ON COMOROS

SEASONS AT A GLANCE

Most destinations have different times of the year when they’re more or less popular with tourists. 

Peak Season

Shoulder Season

Off Peak Season

BEST TIME TO VISIT COMOROS

Comoros has a tropical climate with two main seasons: a rainy season and a dry season.

• The rainy season typically runs from November to April and is characterized by high temperatures, high humidity, and frequent rainfall. This season can make outdoor activities challenging and some roads may become impassable.
• The dry season typically runs from May to September and is characterized by mild temperatures, low humidity, and little rainfall. This is the best time to visit Comoros for outdoor activities and visiting national parks.

The best time to visit Comoros is from May to September when the weather is dry and mild. This is also the best time for outdoor activities and visiting the national parks. The rainy season is from November to April and it can be quite hot and humid during this time.

BEST TIME FOR:

Comoros has plenty of stunning and secluded beaches which you can enjoy at almost any time of the year. The dry season is from May to October when the temperatures are also more moderate. From November, the humidity increases and there are often tropical cyclones between January and May.

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COMOROS TRAVEL COSTS

he cost of traveling to Comoros can vary depending on a number of factors such as the time of year, your travel style, and how long you plan to stay.

Some expenses to consider when planning a trip to Comoros include:

Airfare : Round trip flights from major cities in Europe or Africa can cost between $600 to $1000 depending on the season, carrier, and point of origin.

Accommodation : Prices for hotels and guesthouses in Comoros can range from as little as $20 per night for a budget option to $100 or more per night for a luxury option.

Food : Eating out at a local restaurant can cost anywhere from $5 to $15 per meal.

Transportation : Prices for local transportation, such as buses and taxis, are relatively low in Comoros.

Activities and excursions : Prices for activities and excursions, such as island-hopping and snorkeling, can vary depending on the tour operator and the activity.

Overall, a budget-friendly trip to Comoros can cost around $40- $50 per day, while a more comfortable or luxury trip can cost $100 to $200 per day or more.

Here is a sample list of costs for a trip to Comoros:

Round-trip airfare from Paris to Moroni: $800- $1000

Accommodation: $50 per night for a mid-range hotel or guesthouse

Food: $10-15 per meal at a local restaurant

Transportation: $5-10 for a local bus or taxi ride, and $25-40 for a full-day car rental

Activities and excursions: $30-50 for a half-day island-hopping tour, $20-30 for a snorkeling excursion.

Please keep in mind that prices can vary depending on the time of year and your point of origin, and this is just a rough estimate. It is always best to check current prices and availability when planning your trip.

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Here are some travel tips for visiting Comoros:

Visa : Visitors from most countries do not need a visa to enter Comoros for stays of up to 90 days. However, it's always best to check with the Embassy of Comoros before traveling to confirm the current requirements.

Currency : The local currency is the Comorian Franc. It can be difficult to find ATMs or places to exchange currency outside of the major cities, so it's recommended to bring enough cash or a credit card with a good international withdrawal limit.

Language : The official languages of Comoros are Comorian, French, and Arabic, so it's helpful to know a few basic phrases in one of those languages. Many people in the tourist industry speak some English, but it's not widely spoken.

Health : It's important to check with your doctor before traveling to Comoros and make sure you're up-to-date on all necessary vaccinations. Malaria prophylaxis is recommended, and you should also be aware of the risk of dengue fever and chikungunya.

Safety : Comoros is generally safe to travel, but it's always best to be aware of your surroundings and be cautious with your valuables, especially in larger cities.

Transportation : While the main island Grande Comore has a good network of roads, some of them can be in poor condition. it's recommended to hire a car with a driver or take a taxi if you're not familiar with the area. Also, note that public transportation can be limited and irregular.

Respect : Comoros is a Muslim country and it's important to be respectful of local customs and traditions, especially when it comes to dress and behavior. Women should dress conservatively and avoid revealing clothing, and it's important to remove shoes before entering a mosque.

Be flexible : Comoros is a unique and off-the-beaten-path destination, so it's important to be flexible and open-minded when traveling there. Things may not always go as planned, but that's all part of the adventure!

REGIONS & HIGHLIGHTS OF COMOROS

Sights & highlights of comoros.

Comoros is made up of four main islands: Grande Comore, Moheli, Anjouan, and Mayotte. Each island has its own unique culture and attractions.

Grande Comore : also known as Ngazidja, is the largest and most populous of the Comoros islands. It's home to the capital city Moroni, and the island's natural beauty, including the volcano Karthala and the beautiful beaches. Visitors can also explore traditional villages and markets, and visit the Presidential Palace and the National Museum.

Moheli : also known as Mwali, is the smallest of the Comoros islands. Moheli is known for its natural beauty, including white-sand beaches and lush vegetation. Visitors can also explore traditional villages, snorkel and dive in the coral reefs, and visit the Moheli Marine Park.

Anjouan : also known as Ndzuwani, is known for its rich culture, history and natural beauty. Visitors can explore traditional villages, visit the historic capital Mutsamudu, and take in the stunning landscapes. The island is also home to many spices, including vanilla, cloves and ylang-ylang.

Mayotte : is a French overseas territory and the only island of the Comoros that is not an independent state. Mayotte is known for its beautiful beaches, lagoons, and coral reefs. Visitors can also explore traditional villages, visit the capital city Mamoudzou, and take in the stunning landscapes.

Please note that while Mayotte is administratively part of Comoros, it is not a part of the Union of the Comoros, and the travel tips and information may be different.

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WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN COMOROS

Comoros offers a variety of things to see and do for visitors, here are some of the best:

Visit the capital city Moroni : Moroni is the capital and largest city of Comoros. It's home to many historical and cultural sites, including the Presidential Palace and the National Museum. Visitors can also explore the city's markets, traditional villages, and beautiful beaches.

Climb the Karthala volcano : The Karthala volcano is the largest volcano in the Comoros and one of the most active in the world. Visitors can hike to the summit and take in the stunning views of the island and the Indian Ocean.

Explore the Moheli Marine Park : The Moheli Marine Park is a protected area that is home to a diverse range of marine life, including coral reefs, fish, and sea turtles. Visitors can snorkel and dive in the park to see the marine life up close.

Visit the traditional villages : Comoros is home to many traditional villages that offer a glimpse into the island's rich culture and history. Visitors can explore the villages and meet the local people, learn about their customs and traditions, and see traditional architecture.

Island-hopping : Comoros is made up of four main islands, each with its unique culture and attractions. Visitors can take a ferry or charter a boat to explore the islands and see the different landscapes and cultures.

Snorkeling and diving : Comoros is home to some of the most beautiful coral reefs in the world. Visitors can snorkel or dive in the crystal clear waters to see the marine life up close.

Spice tour : Comoros is known for its spices, particularly vanilla, cloves, and ylang-ylang. Visitors can take a tour of the spice plantations and learn about the history and cultivation of these spices.

Relax on the beautiful beaches : Comoros is home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Visitors can relax on the white-sand beaches and take in the stunning views of the Indian Ocean.

A ONE- AND TWO-WEEK ITINERARY FOR THE COMOROS

Here's a concise guide to help you make the most of your visit, whether you have one or two weeks to explore.

Day 1-3: Grande Comore (Ngazidja)

- Arrive in Moroni, the capital city.

- Explore the Volo Volo Market and the Grande Mosquée du Moroni.

- Relax at Itsandra Beach and visit the Iconi ruins.

Day 4: Travel to Mohéli

- Take a boat trip to Mohéli, enjoying the ocean views.

Day 5-6: Mohéli

- Discover the Mohéli Marine Park.

- Enjoy snorkeling and witness the rich marine life.

Day 7: Return to Grande Comore

- Spend your last day shopping for souvenirs and enjoying local cuisine.

Follow the one-week itinerary for the first seven days, then continue with the following:

Day 8-10: Anjouan (Nzwani)

- Visit the local villages and immerse yourself in the culture.

- Hike to the Moya Beach and explore the Sultan's Palace in Mutsamudu.

Day 11-13: Mohéli (Mwali)

- Participate in optional excursions like whale-watching or rainforest hiking.

- Relax at the Laka Lodge and soak in the tranquil environment.

Day 14: Grande Comore

- Return to Grande Comore and prepare for your departure.

Traveling between islands can be an adventure in itself, with boats being the primary mode of transportation. It's essential to stay flexible and patient, as services may not always adhere to a strict schedule.

WHAT TO EAT IN COMOROS

When visiting Comoros, you will have the opportunity to try some delicious local dishes. Here are some of the most popular foods to try:

• Mataba : Mataba is a popular dish made with a type of bread that is filled with meat, vegetables, or fish. Mataba is a popular street food and can be found in many local restaurants.
• Langouste : Langouste is a type of lobster that is caught off the coast of Comoros. It is often grilled and served with rice or vegetables.
• Yassa : Yassa is a traditional dish made with chicken or fish that is marinated in a spicy sauce made with onions and lemons. It is often served with rice or couscous.
• Mshikaki : Mshikaki is a popular dish made with skewers of marinated beef or chicken that is grilled over hot coals.
• Cari : Cari is a traditional dish made with meat or fish that is cooked in a spicy sauce made with coconut milk and spices.
• Zebu : Zebu is a type of beef that is often grilled and served with rice or vegetables.
• Fresh seafood : Comoros is an island nation, seafood is a staple and it's a must-try! Visitors can enjoy a variety of fresh seafood, including fish, octopus, and squid.
• Rasko : Rasko is a traditional porridge-like dish made with rice, sugar, and coconut milk. It is often served as a dessert.
• Fruit : Comoros is known for its delicious tropical fruits, such as papaya, mango, and banana. Visitors can enjoy fresh fruits as snacks or try them in traditional dishes.

It's important to note that some of the food and drinks in Comoros may be quite spicy, so be sure to let the chef know if you don't want it too spicy. Visitors should also be aware of the risk of food-borne illness and take precautions to ensure that food is properly prepared and cooked.

LGBTQ IN COMOROS

WHERE TO STAY IN COMOROS

When visiting the Comoros for the first time, choosing the right area or region to stay in is crucial for a memorable experience, considering factors like accessibility to attractions, cultural experiences, and available amenities. Here are some recommendations along with accommodation suggestions for each category: budget, mid-range, and luxury.

Where to stay in Moroni (Grand Comore):

Moroni, the capital city of the Comoros, offers a mix of historical sites, lively markets, and beautiful beaches, making it a great base for exploring the island of Grand Comore.

Budget:   Hotel Jardin de la Paix  - Affordable hotel located near the city center, offering basic rooms, essential amenities, and a convenient location within walking distance of markets and restaurants.

Mid-range:   Retaj Moroni Hotel  - A mid-range hotel featuring comfortable rooms, a swimming pool, and a restaurant serving local and international cuisine, situated near the waterfront and major attractions.

Luxury:   Golden Tulip Grande Comore Moroni Resort & Spa  - A luxurious resort offering upscale rooms, gourmet dining options, a spa, and stunning views of the Indian Ocean, set amidst lush tropical gardens.

Tips:  To find the best value accommodation in Moroni, consider booking directly with hotels or guesthouses and negotiating room rates, especially for extended stays. Additionally, visiting during the offseason (November to March) when tourism is lower may result in lower accommodation prices.

Where to stay in Mutsamudu (Anjouan):

Mutsamudu is the capital city of the Comoros island of Anjouan. While it may not have as many hotel options as larger cities, there are still some well-reviewed budget and mid-range accommodations available. Here are a few options:

Hotel Filaos :  Located in Mutsamudu, Hotel Filaos offers budget-friendly accommodation with basic amenities. Guests appreciate its convenient location and friendly staff.

Hotel Le Jardin :  Another budget option in Mutsamudu, Hotel Le Jardin provides simple rooms at affordable rates. It's a good choice for travelers looking for budget accommodations in the area.

Hotel Le Papillon :  Situated in Mutsamudu, Hotel Le Papillon offers comfortable mid-range accommodations with amenities such as air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, and an on-site restaurant. Guests appreciate its cleanliness and helpful staff.

Hotel Al Amal :  Hotel Al Amal provides mid-range accommodations with clean and comfortable rooms. It's located in Mutsamudu and offers basic amenities for a comfortable stay.

Tips:  To find the best value accommodation in Mutsamudu, consider staying in locally owned guesthouses or lodges, which may offer unique and authentic experiences at reasonable prices. Additionally, booking accommodation well in advance, especially during peak tourist seasons or events, can help secure better rates.

Where to stay in Fomboni (Mohéli):

Fomboni is the capital city of Mohéli, known for its pristine beaches, lush forests, and marine biodiversity, offering visitors a peaceful and unspoiled island retreat.While it's a smaller city, there are still some options for budget and mid-range accommodations. Here are a few suggestions:

Hotel Bellevue Moheli :  Located in Fomboni, Hotel Bellevue Moheli offers budget-friendly accommodation with basic amenities. Guests appreciate its scenic location and friendly staff.

Hotel Karembo :  Another budget option in Fomboni, Hotel Karembo provides simple rooms at affordable rates. It's known for its hospitality and convenient location.

Moheli Laka Lodge :  Situated in a beautiful natural setting near Fomboni, Moheli Laka Lodge offers mid-range accommodations in bungalows overlooking the ocean. Guests appreciate its tranquil atmosphere and eco-friendly practices.

Moya Plage Hotel :  Moya Plage Hotel provides mid-range accommodations with comfortable rooms and amenities such as a swimming pool and on-site restaurant. It's located a short distance from Fomboni and offers a relaxing beachfront setting.

For hassle-free bookings, use platforms like   Booking.com  for competitive rates or   Holiday Swap  for unique homes worldwide. Ensure to book in advance, especially during peak seasons, and align your preferences with nearby activities such as surfing, snorkeling, or cultural exploration.

CHOOSE ANOTHER DESTINATION

Recent blog posts, plan your trip, visa services, let ivisa take the pain out of travel planning and assist you with electronic visas, travel authorizations, visas on arrival, and even paper visas. they can also help with health declarations and embassy registrations. if you're from the us, they also provide a one-stop shop to renew your passport securely and error-free..

FLIGHTS Find a cheap flight by using  Sky scanner  or  Momondo . These are our favorite  flight search engines. They index other travel websites and airlines across the globe to easily find you the best deal.

ACCOMMODATION

Booking.com is our number one resource for researching and booking accommodation. In addition to Booking.com , we have found  Agoda.com to consistently returns the cheapest rates in Southeast Asia. For longer stays, find unique homes worldwide on Holiday Swap , the most affordable travel platform that allows you to book homes anytime, anywhere in only a few clicks.

TRANSPORT ​

DiscoverCars.com is a leader in online car rental bookings; we compare car rental deals from many companies so that you can choose which is best for your trip.  12Go   connects the world door-to-door, from transfers to flights, under the same user-friendly ticket.

INSURANCE Travel insurance can protect you against unexpecte d illness, injury, theft, and cancellations.

Heymondo (International Travel Insurance)

World Nomads   (Travel / medical insurance for long-term travelers and nomads)

SafetyWing Nomad Insurance (Travel / medical insurance for long-term travelers and nomads)

SafetyWing Remote Health  (Global Health Insurance for Nomads)

Need more help to book your trip? Check our complete resource page  for all the best companies to use when you travel. You will only find the companies we use ourselves.

Please note that some of the links above may be affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you,

we may earn a commission if you end up making a purchase and the income goes to keeping the site ad free.

The Comoros archipelago - 4 Islands

The islands.

The Comoros archipelago, consisting of 4 islands, is more than just a tourist destination – it is 4 destinations at once, with their rich natural and cultural heritage and a varied tourist offer that has something for everyone: The beautiful turquoise blue sea and the white sandy beaches invite you to swim and do water sports, the lush green rainforest seduces you to discover the rich nature, the culture lets the visitor immerse into the traditions of the islands and, not to forget, the varied and delicious local cuisine is incomparable.

Grande Comore , the main island, has no less than 20 beaches with clear water, which invite you to relax between two shopping trips in the streets of Moroni, the capital of the Comoros with 60,200 inhabitants. Its many bars, cafés, restaurants, accommodation, casinos and activities, combined with dream beaches, make Grande Comore the most popular island for holidaymakers. Grande Comore has an international airport with inter-island planes and ships that can transport tourists to reach the other islands.

After an 85 km boat ride, you can reach the smallest island Moheli with its extraordinary forest, nature reserves, turtle beach: here you can discover the huge palm trees, sea coconut trees that produce fruits with female buttocks. This place is the home of the black parrots and of various other birds of the Comoros, the rarest birds in the world. At sunset, let yourself be seduced by the Comorian cuisine with your feet in the water on the magnificent beach of Moya! 75 km by ferry from Moheli to Anjouan.

The island of Anjouan will seduce those who dream of authenticity and want to discover the traditions of the archipelago. The native island of the lemurs, the perfume scents of the different plants ylang-ylang, jasmine, carnations and others, the ancient architecture, the colonial houses of the "Union" estate offer you a journey through time.

Finally, 100 km by ferry from Anjouan to Mayotte , the last island of the Comoros, which remained French with the independence of the Comoros in 1975, is located. There is nothing like a trip by ferry to discover still untouched beaches and lagoons. On board of inland ships you will discover spectacular underwater landscapes, rare coral islands and places that are still incredibly well preserved.

The 4 islands offer you dive sites and the most beautiful fishes: tuna, gilthead, barracuda, marlin and you will be able to see the luck of the coelacanths live, sensations guaranteed!

The Comoros are also known as the islands of perfume. An exotic and intoxicating fragrance that combines the delicacy of fruit with the sunny essences of ylang-ylang. It is like diving in the volcanic archipelago of the Comoros. A fragrance inspired by the beauty of the tropical flora and landscape.

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Everything I Wish I Had Known Before Traveling to the Comoros Islands

April 24, 2022 by Silvia 28 Comments

Updated April 2022

Now, I don’t usually do loads of research before visiting a new place, but even I came up disappointed with the little amount of information for travel to the Comoros Islands on the Internet. I tried all my usual searches but I failed to find answers to most of my questions about travel in the country.

Luckily (most) everything with my trip worked out well, so guys, don’t worry about the lack of info out there about the Comoros and enjoy your trip!

Oh wait, I forgot for a second that this is a travel blog. Of  course I’m going to share everything I now know about the Comoros in hopes of making your trip there even better. And I really do hope you plan a trip there, because this island country between Madagascar and Mozambique is simply magical. 

And if you’re interested in getting off the beaten path in Africa yourself but are wary about going alone, my dear friend Helen runs guided small group Africa trips . I went on her  two week trip to Uganda, Mozambique, and the Congo  and it was seriously one of the best trips of my life. 

How to get to the Comoros Islands

Island country off the coast of where? That sounds like getting to the Comoros will be two things: difficult and expensive.

But since so many people from the Comoros have family and work in France, there are actually some really good flight connections from Paris to Moroni.

My friend found a Kenya Airways flight for 500 euros from Paris, while my flight with Ethiopian Airlines was 650 euros. My total flight time including a layover in Ethiopia was 12.5 hours and both of my airplanes were brand new Dreamliners, so the journey was quite comfortable.

Transport: getting between + around the Comoros islands

How to get from grande comore to mohéli and anjouan.

While getting to the Comoros Islands was quite easy, getting between the different islands is a bit more tricky.

Apparently the domestic flights there are incredibly unreliable, often being canceled or delayed (or even leaving early!) without warning. So while the manager at my guest house on Mohéli said that he could book a flight for me from Grande Comore, he recommended getting the boat instead.

There is a local boat you can book independently – just be aware that as a foreigner you’ll need to submit a copy of your passport for police permission to take the boat – but I opted to pay more to take the boat arranged by my guest house Laka Lodge, simply because it seemed less of a hassle.

The boats are speedboats with room for about nine people, and there’s a good chance you’ll get pretty wet during the journey. They put all the luggage at the front of the boat covered in a tarp though, so your clothes and any electronics should be fine.

I paid 150 euros round trip, which included the transfer from my guest house in Moroni (the ferry port is an hour south of Moroni in Chindini) and a car to my guest house on Mohéli. I believe flights cost just about the same.

Laka Lodge also said they could help me book a boat to Anjouan, but I ended up not having enough time to see the third island.

I would also give yourself at least a day or two to get back to Grande Comore before your international flight out, as the boats don’t run when the sea is too rough and there could be unexpected delays.

A French couple traveled back to Grande Comore on my boat, and while the staff at Laka Lodge had assured them they’d arrive in time for their flight home they still ended up missing it, so I really wouldn’t risk traveling the same day as your flight!

Transport around the islands

There are tons of shared taxis driving around Grande Comore, especially near Moroni. Just flag one down and tell them where you’re going, and if they’re not headed that way you’ll only have to wait a minute or two for the next taxi. Shared taxi rides around Moroni cost the equivalent of about 50 cents.

I arranged my taxis to and from the airport in advance through my guest houses for 10 euros. And I also arranged for a car to take me around the north of the island for a day, costing 40 euros for about 8 hours.

There seemed to be fewer taxis on Mohéli, so I would try to arrange a transfer to your guest house there in advance if you can.

Accommodation on the Comoros

Probably the trickiest part of planning my trip to the Comoros was finding accommodation.

So much of the information I found was out of date, the hotels listed on Booking.com seemed to have become really run-down, and I wasn’t sure which areas would be the best to stay in.

Grande Comore

First, I stayed three nights in this Airbnb outside of Moroni, which cost 35 euros a night. It’s run by a very nice woman who speaks good English, and she also helped me arrange things to do around the island during my stay there.

I had planned on recommending this Airbnb, but then on way back from Mohéli I spent 3 nights at a guest house in the Moroni center that was much nicer!

Villa Saifoudine is run by the sweetest couple, and the woman was born in Kenya and speaks perfect English (which was super helpful when I unexpectedly had to see a doctor in Moroni). A double or twin room for two people costs 44 euros, and for one person is 32 euros.

The house is beautiful, with a really nice terrace and very clean rooms, and it’s just a five-minute walk from the city center. The breakfast was delicious, and you can also arrange in advance to have a 3-course dinner there for 20 euros, which I would recommend doing at least once!

You can see Villa Saifoudine (and hear why I had to go to the doctor) in my third Comoros vlog:

There are a few different hotels on Mohéli, but the only one that seems to be catering to foreign tourists is Laka Lodge .

I spent four nights at Laka Lodge, and staying there definitely felt like the beach holiday portion of my time on the Comoros.

They have a private beach and organize lots of activities during the day, so you can do things like go diving, snorkeling, swim with humpback whales (in season), go on a hike, see the Livingstone’s fruit bats, and wake up early to see sea turtles laying their eggs.

My friend and I each paid 80 euros for a double bungalow, which also included 3 meals a day. Annoyingly I didn’t realize until the last day that we could have each had our own single bungalow for 15 euros more – so if you don’t want to share a bed with someone book single bungalows instead! And then most of the boat excursions cost around 40 euros.  Now you can book Laka Lodge on Booking.com , which is way easier than when I visited and had to email the property. 

Right now Laka Lodge is managed by an American guy who’s clearly very passionate about bringing tourism to the country. He was also incredibly helpful via email while I was planning this trip, so I’d say it’s worth staying at Laka Lodge just to get his advice and recommendations for your visit to the Comoros.

I mean, not that you really need more reasons to stay at Laka Lodge. Seriously, it’s in one of the prettiest beach settings ever!

Things to Do in the Comoros

I was in the Comoros for 10 nights, spending three nights on Grande Comoroe, four nights on Mohéli, and another three nights on Grande Comore. I would have loved to also have visited the third island of Anjouan, but since the flights and boats aren’t 100% guaranteed to always run between the islands I didn’t want to risk missing my flight home.

This post is already getting really long, so I’m sharing all my favorite things to do on the Comoros in a separate post here .

Everyone on the Comoros speaks Comorian and French (and some Arabic), and a lot of young people seem to speak some English as well. I imagine it would be a bit more difficult visiting the Comoros without any French knowledge, though I visited with a Norwegian friend who doesn’t speak French and he seemed to do just fine when I wasn’t around. I think the main difference was just that he wasn’t really able to chat with people, but he could get around just fine.

So if you want to be able to talk to locals I would definitely try to brush up on your French, or at least learn a few key phrases in French, but you should also be able to get by okay with English.

Nothing I ate on the Comoros was particularly exciting or new, but I also never had a meal I didn’t enjoy.

The best meal I had was the 3-course Indian dinner at Villa Saifoudine.

I also went to Le New Select Restaurant several times, partly for the yummy food (especially the chicken curry) and partly because they have WiFi (none of my guest houses in Moroni had Internet). The staff here doesn’t speak English, but Christian went without me once and managed to order something delicious, if unexpected.

My favorite restaurant in Moroni was probably Le Sim Sim on Itsandra Beach, Moroni’s public beach. They have a big menu and even serve alcohol and the staff speak English, but mostly I just loved how lively the beach always got at night. It’s the perfect place to people watch.

I also stopped for a sunset drink at a restaurant nearby Sim Sim called Le Coraya , which has a nice view right on the water.

There are a lot of restaurants in downtown Moroni, so if you just wander around you should easily find a place to eat.

On Mohéli all my meals were included with my stay at Laka Lodge. Breakfast consisted of fruit, eggs, toast, and coffee grown on the island, lunch was a salad and main meal, and dinner was a starter, main and dessert. I know some people didn’t love the food there (Christian wasn’t a fan) but I thought all the meals were delicious.

What to wear in the Comoros as a woman

Comoros is a Muslim country, so I always covered my knees, shoulders, and chest in public. I did see some female tourists in Moroni wearing shorts and tank tops, so you can probably wear what you want here, but personally I felt more comfortable being a bit more covered up considering the local women were all totally covered.

And while local women will swim fully clothed, I was told to at least wear shorts and a t-shirt when swimming at a public beach (though a lot of the beaches I visited were deserted anyway).

Other things you should know about the Comoros

Finally I’ll just say that while the Comoros have so much to offer tourists, the country isn’t really set up as a tourist destination (at least not yet!).

In many ways this is a good thing, but it also means that you’ll need to have a little more patience when getting places or trying to get things done. And while the beaches and water here are beautiful, you’ll also see lots of trash by the side of roads and smoke from people burning trash.

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October 12, 2017 at 10:40 pm

Sounds like a whole bunch of good tips! Maybe one day I’ll use them…

Please do keep vlogging! Movement and sound do help to show what places are like, and it’s really nice to get a bit of an extra story or extra details on what you did on your trip. And on that note: so glad your injury healed all right (did you ever find out what caused it?) and your luggage quota was not used for nefarious purposes! And thanks for filming the fruit bats – pretty special!

October 13, 2017 at 7:49 pm

Oh, and by the way, I think that language in the guest book was probably Ethiopian!

Silvia says

October 15, 2017 at 10:11 pm

Yes, I think so too! I realized that while waiting in Ethiopia during my layover.

October 15, 2017 at 10:18 pm

I never found out what it was that bit me! I guess it will always be a mystery. I’m just very happy that it all cleared up.

Dominique | dominiquetravels.com says

October 13, 2017 at 3:00 pm

That guy with the mask dragging the boat looks super scary! 🙂

October 14, 2017 at 10:44 am

It looks so beautiful, that sunset photo is seriously incredible. I don’t think I’d ever heard of these islands until I read your first blog post about it. It’s nice that it’s not properly set up for tourists yet.

October 15, 2017 at 10:10 pm

Yeah, there is something really nice about visiting a place that isn’t quite set up for tourism.

January 18, 2020 at 11:40 am

Headed to Mohéli in 10 minutes, thanks for your posts!

Victoria @TheBritishBerliner says

October 18, 2017 at 7:41 am

‘Loved reading your tips. Very thorough and detailed.

p.s. Would you have any idea why that fellow was wearing some sort of mask?

Stuart says

November 4, 2018 at 1:53 pm

Looks amazing Silvia. Can you recommend the person that you did the driving tour with? Mount Karthaza – Can you recommend hiking? Thanks, Stuart

Enrique says

January 24, 2019 at 5:07 pm

I had the opportunity to travel there in three business trips in 2012-2014. Beautiful country. Very friendly people. The native language that locals speak is Swahili. I stayed at the Retaj hotel. It’s not bad, they have free internet. However at that time the internet was intermittent. Not to mention the blackouts, almost 3 or 4 a day. With better infrastructure, the country could be a great tourist destination. Beautiful country.

April 18, 2019 at 10:59 am

hello, the 65 euros was it for your entire stay or per night

Aparna says

May 8, 2019 at 7:39 pm

Very nice and informative article

Müller says

December 3, 2019 at 8:51 pm

the comoros Archipelago is very beautiful. I have been there last year and i was very positiv surprised to see this beautiful Island. People are very friendly and you are invited everywhere in the Island to take part in Weddings to eat, to dance and sing with local people. It is amazing

Edward Siu says

December 22, 2019 at 10:26 am

It sounds a great place to visit. I work with a bunch of Comorian guys and they are super friendly.

Luis Carlos Tabares says

June 29, 2020 at 8:57 am

nice post, thanks for the information.

Zaheed Joosub says

October 20, 2020 at 9:44 am

I would like to visit that country ii wish you had pictures of the accommodation and the restaurants, what type of food they serve as well.

hope i can communicate with you directly.

frank clayton says

October 22, 2021 at 8:15 am

Hi Sylvia, Just enjoyed your Comoros Islands article, me dreaming about seeing the endemic birds there some day. Reading about you and seeing your pic made me think that my masters-student-in-Arctic-Biology-student Danish-American daughter and you ought to meet. She’s in University at NMBU in Aas, Norway, but is in and out of Tromsoe, especially summers, doing some of her reseach. She is also a wild woman, doing wnter ski trips across Svalbard with polar bear camp visits. I’m telling her she should drop by next time she’s in Tromsoe, and you two might wish to adopt each other as sisters. You can see her Facebook page: Line Klausen. You look like you should be her twin sister. I visited her in Tromso, when she spent a school year there. Going to visit her in Aas in November, before the snow gets too deep. I’m a dancer, too, but more of a contra dancer, which you know of, being from Worcester.

Sambi Fils says

April 25, 2022 at 11:15 pm

Wow I like what I am reading here about my country. I am from Comoros islands but living in chicago USA. I am from the small island Moheli that have the nice beaches. So if you need more information, you can contact me.

May 6, 2022 at 10:49 pm

Hi Sambi. I’m traveling to the Comoros at the end of June. I would be grateful if you would contact me, as I am also having great difficulty finding information online. My address is rpec86 at yahoo dot com.

June 3, 2022 at 6:57 am

Great vlog.Thank you.I was thinking of visiting the Comoros but based on the info here I decided not to.Too much effort to get around and I wouldn’t have the time or patience.

September 5, 2022 at 6:00 pm

Dear reader,

Traveling to the Comoros indeed needs to bring a good mood, a good reserve of flexibility and adaptive skills and patience with you to our not yet discovered destination.

I am the manager at the Laka Lodge in Mohéli, the smallest island of the Comoros archipelago. Not many people publish about the Comoros and how to travel. I would certainly like to thank Silvia for the effort she made to assist travelers to the Comoros. Since then many things a have changed and for example flights are not that unreliable anymore as they were. Also in 2017 it must have been a moment or a particular week when the flights were disrupted and you were advised to take the boat. We do indeed always keep the boat option in reserve or organise boat crossings with our own boat directly to or from our beach. But that comes with a cost and to have break-even towards flying your should preferably be with at least 3 or 4 paying passengers.

When you will write us an email to info ((…@…)) lakalodge.com we will send you a full information package and assist you with organising your entire trip from the moment you step off to plane in Moroni until you leave with a smile being happy to have lived a special experience.

Indeed the Comoros is not yet a destination prepared for tourism and still a lot needs to be done to better present all the beauty the islands can offer.

The 400km² marine park of Moheli is a jewel, now UNESCO certified and is also a HOPE SPOT.

Preparing your travel to Moheli and your stay with us. You can find more information about Laka Lodge on our website Laka Lodge and on Facebook and Instagram where we also published lots of pictures.

Immigration requires arriving passengers to present a printed copy of hotel reservations, tickets of international arrival and departure flight, PCR Certificate for those passengers who are not vaccinated and who will also have to obtain a PCR Covid-19 negative certificate on departure. Fully vaccinated passengers do NOT need to present a PCR but need to present proof of vaccination.

International flights You may book your tickets online at Air Austral (UU), Kenya Airways (KQ), Ethiopian Airlines (ET), EWA Air (ZD), Air Madagascar (MD).

Domestic flights We can assist you with booking and purchasing the tickets for your domestic flights. Full advance payment is required. We apply a service fee of 10€ per ticket. We cannot take any responsibility for flight cancellations or delays. Booking and paying the tickets well in advance is necessary to benefit from the lowest fares and because the flights are often fully booked. Return tickets cost about 200EUR in Economy. There is currently only one local airline operating: RKomor. Currently there are flights, every day to and from Moheli apart from Fridays. Usually flights are scheduled in the morning before noon. Luggage limitations 20kg. Extra luggage is charged at 3 euros per kg. Hand luggage maximum 5kg. We can also assist you with booking a hotel room and airport transfers if you require an overnight stay or transit through one of the other islands of the archipelago.

Dining Options – our dietary preferences As we are located in a small and remote village, there are few dependable outside restaurant options. Therefore, we generally offer accommodation on a full-board basis. We offer a daily menu consisting of fresh and local ingredients. Our meals include local and international dishes based primarily on the wide variety of fresh fish and seafood available in the sea around us. If you have any special dietary needs (vegetarian, vegan, food allergies, etc.) please inform us in advance so that we can prepare an individualized menu to exceed your dining expectations and ensure that you enjoy your island adventure to the maximum!

Scuba Diving Mohéli Laka Lodge Diving is the only diving operation on the island and the first to explore and document the undiscovered waters of Mohéli. Since its creation in 2013, we have identified numerous attractive dive sites, while many others are still waiting to be discovered on the vast unexplored reefs of the Parc National de Mohéli which comprises a vast area of 400km² – 100,000 acres. We offer guided dives for certified divers and introductory dives (PADI Discover Scuba Diving) all year round. PADI certification courses up to Divemaster level are offered during the high season between July and November. We organize up to three dives per day of which possibly one evening/night dive. Night dives are of an exceptional beauty.

To guarantee availability, dives and the rental of equipment need to be booked in advance (15€/day). All divers need to be able to comply with the medical questionnaire prior to diving. Please read it carefully and if directed by the questionnaire (if any of the questions in the questionnaire are answered ‘’yes’’), make sure to bring a valid medical statement from your doctor. The medical statement has to be no older than 12 months. The failure to comply with the above conditions will disqualify you from diving. If your last logged dive is older than 2 years you will need to make a refresh dive to refine and check your skills before engaging in fun dives.

A valid scuba diving insurance is mandatory. You can eventually subscribe a DAN (Divers Alert Network) insurance online before your arrival. We will not accept divers who are not ensured. Certified divers will need to present their certification cards.

Excursions and hikes On our website http://www.lakalodge.com you will find a description of the excursions and other eco-tourism activities we can organize for you. During your stay, we can prepare a picnic or sandwiches to take with you on your adventures. Let us know a day in advance. The hiking trails in the primary forest are very primitive, therefore we recommend you come with appropriate footwear and long trousers for these excursions.

Local Culture Mohéli is home to a colorful, vibrant, and conservative traditional culture. In order to show respect to our local hosts, and to earn their respect in return, when travelling in the Comoros please avoid public displays of affection and dress in conservative manner. Laka Lodge is home to one of the only private beaches in the Comoros, therefore on our private beach and in the boat for marine excursions, wearing bikinis and western-style swimwear is possible. When walking in the village or on the public beach, please wear at least a shirt with sleeves and trousers, a skirt, or a wrap. Local women usually wear a shawl or scarf to cover their head or wrap around their shoulders. Demonstrating respect for their traditions is a fun component of your ecotourism experience and will earn you a deeper level of trust and connection during your interactions with the wonderful Comorian people.

Visa Visas are valid for 45 days and cost 30€ per adult (everyone over 16 years old). The visa can be obtained directly at the airport. Passports must be valid for six (6) months after your date of arrival.

Vaccination To enter the Comoros there are no vaccinations required. Arriving and departing passengers who are not vaccinates are required to present a Covid-negative certificate that is not older than 72 hours. Fully vaccinated passengers do not need to present a PCR.

COVID-19 prevention measures Our clients should comply with measures we have taken to avoid COVID-19 further spreading. We require to apply social distancing and wearing a face mask when this is necessary and at all instances when it is not possible to keep at least a 1.5m distance.

At the lodge we have a lot of space on the beach and the restaurant areas and we have also taken measures to guarantee hygiene while our personnel that is in direct contact with the clients should wear face protection masks. We advise our guests to travel the same or next day of arrival by plane or boat to Moheli and on the way back eventually leave Moheli the same day as the departing international flight so to spend as little time as possible in more populated areas. It is not authorized to invite other people to enter the lodge or to organise meetings of any kind inside our premises.

Malaria Currently the prevalence of malaria is relatively low in Moheli but prophylaxis is advisable when travelling to the Comoros. It is wise to bring a good mosquito repellent spray or liquid with you. Always use your mosquito net in the night and cover your legs and arms with light cotton clothing in the evening. Laka Lodge on Google Earth – Facebook – TripAdvisor

Plenty of photos can be found on Facebook, Laka Lodge Diving and on Instagram. Introduce our GPS coordinates 12 21.954S, 043 42.857E in Google Earth to see where we are located and see the incredible nature all around us! You can also read the reviews of our visitors on TripAdvisor. Flight

There are normally flights every day. A return ticket costs about €200/p. One way €100/p. There are also flights between Anjouan and Moheli.

Flight schedules are often changing and flights are often scheduled only one month in advance. – Check-in : two hours before departure – Luggage : 20kg ; 5kg hand luggage – Flight duration : 25 minutes – Extra luggage : 3€/kg – In most cases flights are scheduled in the morning

Boat The “kwassa-kwassa” – when people first saw them they said « c’est quoi ça ? » 😊 – What is this? -, are open fishing boats (without a roof) of about 7.50m with wooden benches . The crossings are now well supervised by the Coast Guard. Below is a picture taken recently by customers when they made the crossing, departing from Shindini.

Any crossing by sea also depends on the weather. Often you have to leave early in the morning, when the sea is still calm with departure from Moroni at 05:00 to arrive around 07:00 at the boat departure. The crossing times also depend on the tide and the currents.

For the boat crossing you have the choice between a public or private boat.

Departure from the South of Grande Comore at Uroveni (about 2 hours by car from Moroni) and then 2 hours crossing by boat; can be longer depending on weather, tides and currents. Boats depart between 9:00 a.m. and 11:00 a.m. depending on the tide; it is preferable to be there at 08:00AM, 09:00AM at the latest. Early in the morning the sea is often calmer and the crossing more pleasant. On the way back we leave Laka Lodge at 08:00AM latest. • Option 1: Transport by public kwassa to or from Huani/Moheli. Cost: around €45 per person, one-way. To be paid directly by the passenger on site. Add transfer by car to/from the boat departure point and on Moheli to/from the lodge • Option 2: Transport by boat to or from Laka Lodge beach: 390€ in total for two people, one-way ; includes municipality tax, baggage tax, police permit, coastguard permit and travel expenses of the coastguard and the police on arrival or departure from our beach. This route may not always be possible when the weather is not too good and in this case it will be a crossing to/from Huani. Price for 3 passengers : 420€ or 140€ per person Price for 4 passengers : 460€ or 115€ per person From 5 passagers to maximum 11 passagers : 100€ per person All prices subject to changes according to fuel prices.

The Moroni-Uroveni or Uroveni-Moroni taxi is not included and costs 85€ each way or 2 euros/person in a bush taxi (be careful, the bush taxis are a great adventure experience but they are always full, slower and sometimes a lot of noise on board …). The boat crossing is really magnificent; when departing Grande Comoros, remember to look back to see the Karthala disappearing into the horizon and then the beauty of the island as you approach Moheli and drive along the untouched coastline. If you arrive from Moroni at 6 a.m. you can easily find a kwassa. Check weather conditions for example on WINDY ; pack all your luggage in plastic bags (e.g. large garbage bags), wear a waterproof “kawé” or other light coat protecting against wind and water, use sun protection +50, wear a well-fastened cap, cover your arms, legs and feet (wear long trousers and socks. If you are prone to seasickness, only one solution: always fix your eyes on the land or on the horizon when you are on the high seas and never lose sight of it; try to detect dolphins which are often present at about halfway through the crossing between the islands.

Communication It is advisable to purchase a local SIM card and a data bundle (about 1EUR per 1Gb) and to ensure that you can be reached by WhatsApp.

Dorothy says

November 7, 2022 at 3:49 pm

Thank you for all of this helpful information!

Linn Krogh Hansen says

December 5, 2022 at 10:56 pm

Interessant! Æ vurdere å reise til Komorene i januar. Takk for gode tips!

March 24, 2023 at 11:45 am

The Comoros are beautiful, I visited them in 2016 for two weeks and I absolutely enjoyed my stay, even though it’s sometimes hard to get around. I wouldn’t recommend going if you don’t speak french because to be honest I didn’t meet any local that was able to speak english. And I always like to talk with locals to learn about their culture :-).

You forgot to mention the Karthala vulcano, definitely worth a climb if you like nature and (endemic) wildlife! (Not easy though)

Gerald says

March 26, 2023 at 4:08 pm

I have been to Comoros a few times. The Big Island and Anjouan. I absolutely want to get back there. I have a good friend that is from there. I love that it’s not like being in a tourist trap. The people are amazing and I always felt welcome. I recommend hiking up to the top of the volcano. You get to go through the rainforest belt and the grassland like higher ground. Fresh fruit growing wild is best you’ll ever have. Anjouan, was absolutely amazing!! I think it may be an older Island. Very high cliffs and thick vegetation. I liked the food. I ate restaurant food and local home cooked. All was good!!! The traditional ginger cakes sold along the streets are very good!! Go! If you are at all able. Find a local that you can communicate with and let the good times flow!!! Oh, travel between Islands can be a challenge. So be patient.

David Low says

October 4, 2023 at 8:57 am

I am living in Malawi just now, so a visit to Comoros is tempting. However, would it be more difficult with a baby (currently 6 months)?

October 4, 2023 at 2:56 pm

I don’t know – I’ve never traveled with a baby

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Once a full-time nomad, I'm now trying to find a balance between continuing to explore off the beaten path places around the world while also building a home in Norway. Want to know more? Head to my About page !

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Ecotourism with passion

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Come fall in love with

Enchanting islands of Sultans, Spices, and Surprises 

The Paradise You’ve Never Heard Of

Featuring high on CNN’s list of “Least visited countries,” Comoros (spelled Comores in French) is a tropical island paradise, were visitors can escape the crowds and familiari ty of the well-known tourist circuits. Instead, one steps back in time, into a world of Persian Sultans and audacious pirates; of volcanic craters and deserted beaches; majestic whales and inquisitive lemurs; thriving reefs and cinnamon forests; elaborate weddings and tranquil sunsets; smiling faces and throbbing drums; fresh tuna on the grill and jasmine on the breeze. 

These “Islands of the Moon”  ( juzur al-qamar in Arabic) are the epitome of ecotourism: an exotic blend of rich history, vital culture, magnificent landscapes, and exceptional biodiversity. If you long to experience and explore a forgotten world, we look forward to introducing you to our island paradise and the best of Comoros tourism. You are going to Adore Comores!

DISCOVER COMOROS

Adore Comores: Passionate for Ecotourism in Comoros

Adore Comores is a full service inbound tour operator which exists to present the natural and cultural wonders of Comoros to the world, while safeguarding this majestic heritage for future generations. “Ecotourism with Passion” means that our team is committing our heart and soul to helping you discover the best of Comoros. And it means that once you walk these historic alleys and deserted beaches, you will experience the heart and soul of Comoros and will share our passion for this lost paradise.

In the past, Comoros’ seclusion has made it a difficult destination for visitors to find and experience meaningfully. With few local English speakers, limited information, and challenging infrastructure, only the most adventurous travelers were willing to take a chance and figure it out as they went. Adore Comores is making this special place more accessible and enjoyable, harnessing the experience of our international team members with the commitment and local knowledge of our guides and community partners to build Comoros tourism in a sustainable way. We are here to answer your questions, plan your island adventure, and help you to fall passionately in love with Comoros, as we have. 

ABOUT ADORE COMORES

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An Ultimate Guide to Visiting Comoros – Africa’s Hidden Gem

 minute read

Comoros may be one of the world's poorest nations, but it's also one of the least visited. It can be hard to understand why this is the case, given some of the incredible experiences that await travellers.

In this ultimate guide to visiting Comoros I'll delve into what makes the archipelago in the Indian Ocean so special, despite the challenges it faces.

To start with, there’s a rich heritage: Portuguese traders, Swahili immigrants and Arab merchants have all spent time here, leaving behind various insignia as testimony. There’s also a swathe of natural wonders to pique curiosity, including Indigenous vanilla and ylang ylang plantations, the world’s largest active volcano and stunning rainforests (particularly on Moheli). There are also European legacies that endure, including use of French as one of the main languages (alongside Comorian, a Swahili derivative, and Arabic). Few people speak English.

But after having spent 16 days between the three islands, some less-than-ideal realities transpired: litter and waste disposal is problematic, leaving some areas of black lava rock (near the water) covered in trash; healthcare is basic, forcing those with slight affluence to get advanced care in neighbouring Madagascar or Reunion (although a large new hospital is currently under construction [2023]); infrastructure is limited, the country outside of Moroni (the capital and main city of Grande Comore) replete with pothole-littered roads and basic public services; and communication can be problematic if you don’t speak French or Comorian (no fault of Comorians).

As a result, tourism has never boomed which (selfishly for me) is ideal … but it hasn’t been so good for the economic development of Comoros.

Despite the trash, much of the nation (comprised of three main islands: Grande Comore; Moheli; and Anjouan) is environmentally pure, and rich in diversity. Comorians are kind, genuinely curious about visitors and obliging - personal safety is rarely compromised and ‘tourist-traps’ are uncommon. And getting around can be an adventure (albeit not always safe): flights are sometimes delayed or cancelled; and boats that link the islands can be overfilled and occasionally sink (but not the ferries - they are safe).

Although at times fuelled by frustration, the 16-day journey - in hindsight - was an adventure, a world away from the cookie-cutter tourist experiences one can have in some nearby African nations.

Would I return? Perhaps not. Am I glad I went? Yes, most certainly!

The rest of this ultimate guide to visiting Comoros outlines what I did during my stay as a solo traveller in the country, with titbits of practical advice peppered throughout and at the end, for your benefit.

Happy reading and travels!  

Solo Travel Note Relevant to this  Ultimate Guide to Visiting Comoros

Aside from typical frustrations of getting around, dealing with developing world realities, and circumnavigating the unofficial dual currency system, the only significant issue I experienced (fault of my own) was an inability to effectively communicate. My French is basic, and it limited the interactions I could have with Comorians.

I thrive on cultural exchange - talking to locals while sitting on a bus, walking in the street or shopping at a market, are some of my favourite interactions.

Given that I visited during wet season (known officially as the humid season, between December and April), I also halved my chances of meeting other travellers. So, I ended up with a touch of island fever; I felt isolated.

Conversing with others was a challenge. Google translate was minimally helpful.

The key? Knowing French.

Language aside, I never felt unsafe (even walking alone at night).  It’s a great destination for solo travellers, perhaps even an ideal place (if you seek authenticity and untouched natural beauty with options for complete solitude) … particularly if you speak French!

Save this article for future reference!

GRANDE COMORE (Ngazidja)

Grande Comore, the largest of the three islands that make up Comoros, is also the first destination on which visitors step foot in Comoros (unless coming from Mayotte).  It’s home to the capital city of Moroni.

But what sets Grande Comore apart from other destinations is its authenticity. Unlike the tourist hotspots of nearby Kenya and Tanzania, Grande Comore has not been overrun by mass tourism. This means that visitors can experience the island in a more genuine way, with fewer crowds and a more authentic cultural experience.

The island's natural beauty is also largely unspoiled (aside from some of the black lava by the water), with lush rainforests that offer a glimpse into the untouched wilderness of the region.

While the island may have its challenges, including limited infrastructure and waste disposal issues, these should not deter you from exploring it. For those seeking a true adventure and a chance to connect with the local culture and environment, Grande Comore is the perfect destination.

With an open mind (and a very keen sense of adventure), you can have a truly unforgettable experience here.

Let’s take a look at some of the island’s key features. 

It’s the vibrant and bustling heart of the island that offers a fusion of cultures and traditions. With influences from African, Arab, and French cultures, the city has a rich history that is reflected in its architecture, cuisine, and people.

Explore colourful markets, stroll through its neighbourhoods, and relax on its beautiful beaches (such as Itsandra).

I grew fond of its authenticity – it’s entirely unpretentious. 

The following sights are some of the highlights. 

Itsandra Beach 

It’s a hidden gem that shouldn’t be missed. The stretch of white sand is the place to go for a chance to soak up the sun and enjoy crystal-clear Indian Ocean waters. 

As the sun begins to set, the beach comes to life with vibrancy.  Men play football, their bodies silhouetted against the warm, orange glow of the sunset.  Children swim with their families, while other beachgoers gather at the beachside bar (as did I) for a drink. 

If you’re looking for a place to relax and unwind or take part in games, go to Itsandra Beach. 

Volo Volo Market 

It’s a bustling hub of activity at the core of the city.  For a full immersion in the sights, sounds, and smells of daily life in Moroni, then the market is a must-visit itinerary stop. 

It teems with vendors (on most days) who sell everything from fresh produce and spices to handmade crafts and textiles.  The air is often filled with the sounds of lively bargaining (and horns honking, given it’s on a main street, not far from the hospital). 

It’s the perfect place to spend an hour or two experiencing the energy of the Comorian people. 

Grande Mosquée du Moroni (aka Old Friday Mosque or  Ancienne Mosquee du Vendredi)

The mosque is one of the most important religious landmarks in Comoros.  Located in the heart of Moroni, access is easy. It’s also highly photogenic (and popularly photographed), so be sure to capture some shots while in the vicinity. 

Spend time admiring carvings, and details of the mosque’s façade.  Observe the peace of the interior.  It’s an important religious landmark for many of the island’s inhabitants.

As call to prayer echoes, feel the tranquillity that ensues (wherever you are in the city), then listen for the rustling of prayer mats.  Note the modest dress.   

If you visit the mosque and plan to enter the interior, remember to dress modestly (with shoulders, arms, navel, knees, and ankles covered), and remove shoes which are to be left outside. 

The bustling port is the gateway to Comoros and a hub of trade and commerce. 

I passed my time observing the comings and goings of ships (particularly brilliant at dusk), watching as goods were unloaded, and being entertained by the hive of activity nearby.  The salty sea air is filled with the sounds of clanging chains and the smell of fish.  It’s an entertaining and atmospheric way to pass some time. 

A highlight is watching fishermen move away from shore (often in dugout canoes) then return later with their daily catches.  Get your hands on some fresh fish by visiting a restaurant for lunch or dinner (recommended below). 

Medina and the Market

The Medina is a bustling hub of activity.  Become immersed in daily life by wandering through the maze of narrow walkways between shops and homes.   You’ll find vendors selling all kinds of goods, including produce, crafts, clothing, and food. 

Observe the men sitting in groups, playing dominoes and cards.  Sit and ask to play (if you have time).

Getting lost is not unusual (as it’s a maze), and don’t be embarrassed if you accidentally enter someone’s house, having mistaken it for a shop (as did I).  Apologise (while wielding a hearty smile) and continue weaving your way through the streets. 

Iconi (South of Moroni)

Located also on the west coast of Grande Comore, five kilometres south of Moroni, is Iconi. It has many characteristics you’d want of a picturesque, historic village on an island: turquoise waters ideal for swimming and snorkelling; narrow streets with an old-world charm; historic buildings (including a mosque); friendly unabashed locals; and crumbling palace ruins dating to the 16 th century. 

Taking the journey south of Moroni to Iconi is a worthy endeavour.  Spending time in Iconi – even if it’s only for a few hours – will provide a brief history lesson and give you a morning or afternoon of rest, relaxation and then adventure (in rustic surrounds). 

Here’s what you can expect to see.

Palace Ruins

Imagine wandering under archways, through courtyards and up the limestone steps of a centuries-old palace.  Kids splash in a nearby pond (to the backdrop of a mosque) in synchrony to waves splashing against the shore that you can see through a hole in the crumbling wall. 

As you explore the ruins, you’ll feel whispers of the past.  Ancient cries may echo against the coral-limestone walls, of women who once jumped from the cliffs adjacent the palace (to avoid capture by Malagasy pirates). 

The Palace ruins of Iconi date back to the 16 th century.  Built under the leadership of Sultan Said Ali bin Said Omar (a notable member of the Ya’aruba dynasty), they were once a majestic residence of the noblesse, and a centre of political and cultural life. 

Take your time wandering around.  Snap a cheeky shot of you posing through a window. 

Iconi Mosque and the Pond 

Located behind the Palace ruins is Iconi Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in Comoros.  Its white walls and elegant minaret are distinctive and pay architectural homage to the country’s Islamic heritage.

I didn’t venture inside but the same rules as visiting any mosque apply (and they’re listed above). 

Spend some time sitting by the pool between the mosque and the ruins – they’re an afternoon favourite of local children who’ll likely want to entertain you and have you play with them.

Trou Du Prophète and beaches around Mitsamiouli (north of Moroni)

37 kilometres north of Moroni (on the northern tip of the island), is Trou du Prophete (along with many other beaches and towns, including Mitsamiouli).  According to local lore, it’s where Prophet Mohamed landed.  Under French rule, the bay was a favourite anchoring spot for sailors.

After wandering down the long road (if you’re travelling by taxi bousse), you’ll be greeted by historical remnants and a scintillating blue, calm inlet.  Wander along the shoreline, follow your nose to ylang ylang plantations, be hypnotised by the dugout canoes gently rocking in the water, and unwind. 

This is the place to relax under a baobab tree and let the magic of the surrounding environment envelop you.   

There’s accommodation with a small – and very humble – restaurant, so it might be the perfect place to stay for a few days.  I had only a day to spare but I could have easily stayed longer.

Other Attractions on Grande Comore (that I didn’t visit)

As I wanted to cover all three islands in the Archipelago (including Moheli and Anjouan), I didn’t have sufficient time to visit the following sites.  But they’re worthy of being included (or so I’ve been told). 

Mount Karthala  

On the southern end of the island is an active volcano called Mouth Karthala, its last eruption occurring in 2005. It takes up over 60% of the island’s surface area. 

It’s not a place you go for a stroll; visiting Mount Karthala means hiking and trekking (but it could be achieved starting at 4am, before sunrise, and finishing a while later).  Some visitors opt to do a two-day hike, which requires the use of a guide (and it’ll set you back around 100 Euro a day). 

The hike-cum-trek begins at 300 metres and ends at the summit of 2,361 metres.  From what I’m told, you’ll pass thick jungle, walk across a tundra and see fields of black ash.  It’s one of the biggest craters in the world.

A visit to Lac Sale, a small crater in the northern part of Grande Comore, is another unique experience.  The lake’s name, translated “salty lake”, refers to the high concentration of salt in the water.

Surrounded by lush greenery and enclosed by a crater, the green water of the lake is beautiful (or so I’m told).  Beyond the crater are beaches and the ocean.

Take a leisurely stroll around the lake’s perimeter and climb the hill behind the lake for a panoramic view. 

Staying on Grande Comore - RECOMMENDED LENGTH OF STAY

Two to four days (depending on how many sites outside of Moroni you wish to see).

Staying on Grande Comore - ACCOMMODATION

There are a surprising variety of accommodation options on the island, but most are located in Moroni (the capital city).  I stayed between an AirBNB (with an amazing host, Daniel) and Jardin de las Pais. 

Do the usual searches (using the links below) and perform a general one using Google – it’ll yield most of the available options. 

AirBNB will likely be the most valuable resource in finding accommodation on the island.

For alternative options, browse the following websites:

• Last Minute

Staying in Moroni - ACCOMMODATION 

There are options to suit most budgets (although there are few on the very cheap side i.e., there are no hostels).

Affordable options:

• Les Arcades
• Farida Lodge
• Club VIP (an apartment building above a restaurant and club, booked via AirBNB)

Mid-range options:

• Jardin de la Paix

•  Bungalows Chez Badji
• Hotel Les Alizes

Upscale options (with amenities such as pools, spas and on-site restaurants):

• Le Retaj Hotel
• Golden Tulip Grande Comore Moroni Resort & Spa (a few kilometres north of the capital)

Browse the following websites for alternative options:

Eating on Grande Comore - RESTAURANTS

When it comes to dining in Moroni, there’s no shortage of options. 

• Nassib: located in the Volo Volo market, it offers traditional Comorian dishes and fresh seafood.
• The Tennis Club de Moroni: here you’ll find a variety of French and international cuisine, with views of the Indian Ocean.

• MoCafe: akin to The Tennis Club du Moroni (above), French and International offerings are common menu items.
• Mumbai Palace: For a taste of Indian food (on rue de la Corniche), try this popular spot.
• Grill Le Coraya: Located near Itsandra Beach, it offers a mouthwatering selection of grilled meats and seafood.
• Jardin de la Paix: Located on the road adjacent the hospital, it’s a tranquil spot with a garden oasis in which to chill and appreciate the delicious fare.
• Le Coelecanthe Restaurant et piscine: Located on rue de la Corniche, it offers a unique dining experience and as the name suggests, there’s a pool on site.
• La Select: Not far from Banque Federale des Commerce, this is a local favourite for its traditional Comorian dishes.
• Kader: Behind BDC Bank, Kader offers an authentic taste of local cuisine.

Getting Around Grande Comore - TRANSPORTATION

There are several options available to travellers for getting around Grande Comore and Moroni.  Prices vary. 

Here's a breakdown of the options:

Buses are the most affordable option for getting around Grande Comore. The main bus station in Moroni is located near Volo Volo market.  Buses depart regularly to most major towns on the island. Fares typically range from €0.10 to €1, depending on the distance.

Taxi Brousse

Taxi brousses are shared taxis that operate on specific routes around the island (the one I took being between Moroni and the town near Trou du Prophete). They are more expensive than buses but can be more convenient for getting to more remote areas. Fares vary depending on the distance, but typically start at around €2.

Taxis are available in Moroni and other major towns on the island. They are more expensive than buses or taxi brousses but can be a more comfortable and convenient option. A ride in Moroni will set you back €3 to €5.

Motorcycle Taxis

Motorcycle taxis, or "motos," are a popular option for short trips around Moroni. They are cheap and convenient, but safety can be a concern. Fares typically start at around €1.

Getting to Grande Comore - TRANSPORTATION

The easiest way to reach Grande Comore (and Comoros) is by air.  Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport (HAH) is located near Moroni and receives flights from several international and regional airlines, including:

• Ethiopian Airlines;
• Kenya Airways; and
• Air Austral.

Direct flights to Grande Comore are available from destinations such as:

• Addis Ababa;
• Reunion Island.

Visitors can also take connecting flights (in smaller planes) from other major cities in Comoros, such as Mitsamudu on Anjouan and Fomboni on Moheli.

Ferry 

Grande Comore can also be reached by boat, with several options available depending on your starting point.

The main port on the island is located in Moroni and receives ferries from other islands in the Comoros archipelago, such as Anjouan and Mohéli (but booking can be a challenge).

There are also occasional passenger ferries that arrive from destinations such as Dar es Salaam in Tanzania and Mombasa in Kenya.

Private Boat Charter

Private boat charters are also available, but they can be quite expensive.

Kwassa-Kwassa (Speedboat)

There are overfilled speed boats that travel between the islands in the Comoros archipelago (the ones coming to Grande Comore from the other two islands arriving in the south).  Officially, they’re not recommended.  Personally, I chose not to use them (as there were reports of two having sunk in the months preceding my visit). 

They’re often overloaded with passengers and goods, and have a history of capsizing, leading to fatalities.  Although I usually have a keen sense of adventure, I chose to spend a little more on this occasion and fly between the islands (as the ferry timetable and my travel schedule didn’t agree). 

In recent years, the Comorian government has made efforts to regulate these boats and improve safety standards, but incidents still occur.

MOHÉLI (Mwali)

Moheli, the smallest of the Comorian islands, is a hidden gem nestled in the Indian Ocean, a paradise for the adventurous traveller seeking an off-the-beaten-path experience.

This low-impact destination is a world away from the hustle and bustle of modern life, offering a tranquil, unspoiled natural beauty that is a balm to the soul. From the rugged, untamed coastline to the dense, lush forests teeming with exotic wildlife, Moheli is a living, breathing testament to the wonders of the natural world.

But make no mistake: this is not easy travel – journeys on Moheli can be long and challenging, as the infrastructure is basic and the roads are often in poor condition.

You’ll be rewarded by being mostly alone as tourism is light – few people make the journey.  For those with the heart of an adventurer, the rewards are immeasurable – a chance to discover a place that few have seen, to connect with nature in its purest form, and to experience a way of life that has remained largely unchanged. 

I fell in love with Moheli. 

Here’s what I saw and experienced. 

Nioumachoua (South) 

Nioumanchoua is a small village located on the southern side of Moheli (the opposite side to Fomboni which is where you’ll find the airport).  

There’s little to the village, aside from food shops, a post office, and peoples’ humble homes (which are often basic concrete structures or huts beside the beach).  Roads are often made of dirt and animals roam freely, the occasional goat emerging from beneath an upturned fishing boat on the beach.  Wandering through town gives visitors an opportunity to experience authentic village life as it’s been lived through the decades.

Despite the simplicity of village life, Nioumanchoua is not lacking in natural beauty. The lush rainforest that surrounds the village provides a stunning backdrop to the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.  Expect to find a tranquil and unspoiled natural environment with breath-taking scenery.

Mohéli Marine Park (South) 

Going on a speedboat adventure with just a guide through the Moheli Marine Park is another thrilling experience.

I felt the wind rushing through my hair as I zipped across the turquoise waters, making way towards the peaks that make up the park. My guide pointed out the various wildlife that can be seen along the way, from pods of dolphins (none of which I saw leaping out of the water) to sea turtles lazily swimming near the surface.

Once you arrive at the islands, there are opportunities to snorkel, hike through rainforest (to catch a glimpse of rare bird species) or simply wander around the white sandy shores in contemplation.

As you head back to Nioumanchoua, you'll be filled with awe, I promise!

Livingstone's Fruit Bat Trek and Sightings (South) 

For thrill and some adventure, hop on the back of a motorbike (behind a local guide) in the pursuit of seeing Livingstone’s Fruit Bat – one of the largest in the world with a wingspan of 1.5 metres.

The guide took me on a bumpy ride to the forest after which we trekked - in near 100% humidity … then rain - in search of the elusive bat (which I later saw while driving around Anjouan).

The hike goes through lush vegetation, so dense at times it’s difficult to see a way forward.  Keen an eye peeled for wildlife such as monkeys and colourful birds.

At the end of the trek, the lovely French- and Swahili-speaking guide escorted me back to Vanilla Lodge and offered me some of his homemade ylang ylang – a popular scent native to Comoros.

Although the trip was arduous (mostly due to the humidity), it was lots of fun.  I may not do it again, given the chance, but I’ve included it here for those who wish to engage their sense of adventure. 

Itsamia Beach, Baobab Trees and Turtle Spawning Observation (East) 

Nestled on the far eastern tip of Moheli lies the village of Itsamia. Despite its small size, this hidden gem is a must-see destination for any traveller seeking to further experience the island’s natural beauty.

The journey from Nioumanchoua to Itsamia was not without its challenges, as the road had been partially washed away by cyclones, leaving large holes that had to be navigated. However, the stunning scenery that surrounded us (the driver being my companion), made it worth the effort.

Upon arrival in Itsamia, take a leisurely stroll along the beach, go for a dip and explore the baobab trees standing nearby. I was lucky enough to meet a Comorian ex-boxer who guided me for the afternoon (even though we didn’t speak a common language). 

One of the highlights of visiting Itsamia is the opportunity to witness sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs. I was alone, waiting until after dusk for them to appear.  Sadly, none came ashore.  So, I’d recommend staying a night or two to increase your chances of seeing them.  It would be a magical experience. 

As you explore the village, you'll encounter friendly locals who are eager to chat. I had the opportunity to lend a helping hand, providing first aid to a young man with a severe wound on his leg. He was grateful for the care and attention, and I was thankful I could provide help (particularly in a low-resource area).

At the end of the day, I returned to Vanilla Lodge with memories that will last a lifetime.

Staying on Mohéli - RECOMMENDED LENGTH OF STAY

Given the difficulty getting around, a lack of infrastructure and having sights spread across the island, a minimum of three days are needed (but more if you want a truly authentic and fully immersive experience). 

Staying on Mohéli - ACCOMMODATION

There are few accommodation options on Moheli, and none that I researched are in the low-to-mid budget range.  I stayed at Vanilla Lodge and although it was more than I could afford, I have no regrets.  The views are spectacular, the staff are kind and supportive, and the location is ideal. 

Here are a few places you could consider staying (but it’s not a comprehensive list):

• Laka Lodge : Located on the southern coast of Moheli, Laka Lodge is a cozy, eco-friendly hotel that offers a unique experience for travellers seeking a peaceful and secluded retreat. Accommodation options include bungalows and villas with sea views. 
• Vanilla Lodge : Located on the southern coast of Moheli, Vanilla Lodge is a cozy eco-lodge that offers bungalows with sea views and a restaurant serving local and international cuisine.

• Le Relais de Singani : On the northern coast, in Fomboni (the town attached to the island’s airport), is Le Relais de Singani.  Rooms are functional, food is available and the service is friendly.  There are water views from the property.  

You can try researching using the websites listed here, but it's likely few will yield results:

Eating on Mohéli - RESTAURANTS

Outside of Fomboni, you’ll need to visit hotel restaurants (such as those at Vanilla Lodge and Laka Lodge in the south) for quality food. 

Walking through villages (such as Itsamia) may lead you to local establishments, but you may also need to ask for advice in locating them.  Locals are helpful so don’t be afraid of asking for directions.

There is plenty of water around and there are lots of fishermen, so getting your hands on some fresh fish shouldn’t be too hard. 

Getting Around Mohéli  - TRANSPORTATION

Moheli is a small island, and transportation options for visitors are limited.

I contacted the owner and manager of Vanilla Lodge in advance, and he kindly arranged for a car to be sent to collect me (the journey for which I paid … and I was collected by one of his family members).

Here are a few other options:

They run from Fomboni to many destinations on the island.  But they stop running by midday (which is problematic if your flight arrives after lunch).  They depart from the market.  Locals refer to them as ‘taxis’ which can be very confusing. If you’re travelling to Fomboni from anywhere else on the island, then I wish you good luck.  Reserve a seat the day before and be at the stop very early.

They are few and far between.  I’d recommend asking for assistance from pre-booked accommodation for transportation options.

Rent a boat or join a tour to explore the coastline and nearby islands. This can be a great way to see Moheli's stunning beaches and marine life.

Getting to Mohéli  - TRANSPORTATION

The airport in Fomboni is called Mohéli Bandar Es Eslam Airport. There are daily flights to Moheli from the other islands (but there are frequent issue with cancellations and over-booking). 

Tickets can be purchased in tourist agencies, most of which are in Moroni (on Grande Comore). 

As indicated under this section for Grande Comore, there are overfilled speedboats that travel between the three main islands of Grande Comore, Moheli and Anjouan. 

Officially, they’re not recommended.  I chose not to use them (as there were reports of two having sunk in the months preceding my visit).

They’re often overloaded with passengers and goods and have a history of capsizing. 

ANJOUAN (Nzwani)

Looking for another adventure that's also off the tourist radar? Anjouan beckons, the third Comorian island in the trio that’s bursting with untold natural beauty and cultural wonders that will take your breath away.

Feel the thrill of exploring the untouched rainforests, with their diverse flora and fauna that seem straight out of a fairytale. Swim in the turquoise waters, alive with vibrant sea life. And when it comes to immersing yourself in the island's heritage, Anjouan's rich and authentic traditions are humbling.

From the winding streets of Mutsamudu's bustling markets to the charming hilltop villages that offer stunning panoramic views, Anjouan promises a trip like no other, a feast for all senses.

It’s yet another gem in Comoros waiting to be uncovered.

Here are the sights I saw and the experiences I had while in Anjouan. 

Mutsamudu (North-West)

Welcome to Mutsamudu, the main city on the island of Anjouan. It’s a bustling port city with a rich cultural heritage and a vibrant market scene.

The winding alleys, whitewashed buildings, and traditional mosques are a testament to the island's long and storied history, while its lively markets offer a glimpse into the everyday life of the local population.

Whether you're exploring the town's historic landmarks, wandering through the markets, or simply soaking up the sun on one of the nearby beaches, Mutsamudu is sure to enchant you – it did me.

Here are a few of the things you can consider doing with a day or two in Mutsamudu.

Waterfall 

Are you ready for an adventure off the beaten path in Mutsamudu? Follow a hand-drawn map provided by a friendly hotel manager to discover a hidden waterfall (albeit a small one). The road leading off the Marche Municipale (outdoor market) will take you into the forest, where you'll be surrounded by lush greenery and the sound of rushing water.

You'll feel like a true explorer as you navigate the twisting path, and when you finally arrive at the waterfall, you'll be rewarded.  Take a refreshing dip in the waterhole at its base (if you feel it’s sufficiently clean … I didn’t) and join in the fun as local children (mostly boys) splash around and play.  Observe as people from the nearby village bathe in parts of the stream, prepare food (such as washing and cutting mangoes) or attend to other chores of daily living.

It's an adventure!

I wouldn’t have found it had it not been for the manager of Karama Hotel!   Don’t be afraid to ask for directions.

Marche Municipale (Outdoor Market)

A visit to the Marche Municipale in Mutsamudu is a must-do experience for anyone looking to immerse themselves in local culture. This bustling outdoor market is in the heart of the city and is a vibrant hub of activity.

You'll find vendors selling everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to clothing. Be sure to keep an eye out for the colourful spices, fragrant herbs, and local delicacies like mabawa, a popular fried dough snack.

As you wander through the market, you'll be greeted by friendly vendors and the sounds of bargaining and haggling.

It was an authentic and lively experience for me!

The citadel is a historic landmark that's not to be missed.

Built in the 15th century, it played a crucial role in the island's defence against foreign invaders. Today, visitors can explore the winding passageways leading to its entrance and experience breathtaking views (the best in Mutsamudu) of the city. Imagine what life was like for the soldiers who once called it home.

To get there, head to the Old Town and look for the signs leading up the hill (if you can find them).  Otherwise, use MapsMe or simply ask a local for directions.  People are only too happy to help.

It's a bit of a climb, but as I said before, the views are well worth it. Once you arrive, take your time exploring the citadel's nooks and crannies, and be sure to snap a few photos of the stunning views from the top.

Fish Market

If you're a seafood lover (or you aren’t but you can tolerate the fishy smell), a visit to the fish market in Mutsamudu is a must-do on your Anjouan itinerary.

Located just a short distance from Karama Hotel, the market is a hub of activity (particularly in the early evening), with fishmongers slicing and dicing all manner of fresh seafood, including tuna, the local staple.

The fish is sourced from the surrounding waters and is often caught and sold on the same day, ensuring maximum freshness and flavour.

So head down to the market, take in the sights and sounds, and maybe even pick up some fresh seafood to cook for dinner (if your hotel or residence has cooking facilities … mine did not).

Al Amal Beach

Al Amal Beach and Hotel is a sight in the top end of Mutsamudu (a long walk from my lodgings at Karama Hotel).

The secluded beach boasts crystal-clear waters and soft white sand, offering the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of town.

The hotel on the beach is a peaceful retreat, where you can relax and enjoy the stunning scenery (although the pool was empty during my day-visit).  The restaurant serves decent fare at reasonable prices.

Whether you want to swim, sunbathe, or take a stroll along the shore, Al Amal Beach is the place to unwind.

En route to Al Amal, it started raining and I was invited into the home of a beautiful Comorian family to shelter in place until the storm passed.  They offered me food and I watched a film with the children.  It was one of the nicest moments of my time on Anjouan. 

Unexpected things happen all the time when we are open to new experiences.

Day Trip Around Island

If you're short on time and want to get a glimpse of the stunning landscapes and attractions of Anjouan, a day trip with a local driver (like Laidine) is a great option. The day will be filled with scenic drives along the island's winding roads, passing through lush forests and between towering mountains.

While some of the roads along the western coast may be in poor condition (which will slow the journey down), taking this route will showcase the island's beauty.

Despite being a long day, the experience is well worth it to get a taste of what Anjouan has to offer.

It was during the drive through the interior that I saw Livingstone's Fruit Bats (which were elusive during my rainforest trek on Moheli).  

Here’s what I saw and did during the day trip. 

Tsembehou (Centre of Island)

Nestled in an interior valley of Anjouan (in the centre of the island) and ringed with cliffs, is Tsembehou (the third-largest city in Anjouan). 

Of highlight is the bridge overlooking a ravine which provides stunning views of the island’s nature. 

As Laidine (the guide) and I didn’t speak a common language, there was no discussion about visiting other sites in the city.  We simply stopped for this photo opportunity then drove to the next destination on the itinerary.    So, I can’t tell you much more about it!  But I believe it’s on the way to the others sites (listed below). 

Dzia Landze Lake (Centre of Island)

Dzia Landze Lake is a natural freshwater lake in the island’s interior that’s surrounded by lush greenery and towering mountains - a stunning setting for a visit.

However, visitors should be aware that the path leading from the road to the lake is fairly steep and muddy, so proper shoes are recommended. I had flip flops (stupidly) which made the journey a little treacherous (considering it had recently rained).

To get the best shots of the lake, you could climb up to the rocky outcropping on the opposite side of the lake, which offers a stunning panoramic view (which I didn't do, as you can see from the picture above and the one below).

Including a visit to Dzia Landze Lake as part of your day trip around Anjouan is a great way to experience some of Anjouan’s natural beauty.

Moya Beach and Bungalows (South of Island) 

Moya is another stop that I’d recommend including on your day trip itinerary.

What makes Moya special is its beach, which boasts crystal-clear waters and soft white sand. Take a dip in the water then relax under the shade of the palm trees.   Afterwards, try some fresh seafood at a local restaurant.

Even if the weather isn't great (like during my visit when it was pouring rain), there are still some great options for shelter and dining. 

Laidine (my guide) and I visited Hotel Le Sultan , a picturesque series of bungalows by the beach.  We enjoyed fresh grilled fish accompanied by fried banana while in the company of a French couple enjoying a more long-term retreat in Moya.

Moya is a great addition to an itinerary exploring Anjouan (particularly if the weather is sunny).

Staying on Anjouan - RECOMMENDED LENGTH OF STAY

Two to four days (depending on how much time you want to spend outside of Mutsamudu). 

Staying on Anjouan - ACCOMMODATION

There are more accommodation options on Anjouan than on Moheli.  I stayed at Karama Hotel in Mutsamudu and thoroughly enjoyed myself.  The staff were very helpful and hospitable, the room was clean (with a sea view and air-conditioning), and the food at the restaurant was fresh and tasty.  

• Karama Hotel (Mutsamudu) 
• Al Amal Hotel (Mutsamudu)
• Oceanis Hotel (Mutsamudu) 
• Le Sultan Hotel (Moya)
• Auberge Maouwa Valley (Moya)

You can try researching accommodation using the websites listed here:

Eating on Anjouan - RESTAURANTS

There are a few restaurants in Mutsamudu yet I ate a few of them.  Most of my evenings were spent at Karama Hotel in their restaurant, mixing with the Comorian guests and the pet lemur. 

Here are the options (in Mutsamudu, not in Anjouan at large) few of which I can personally recommend:

• Karama Hotel : The hotel has a restaurant that offers a limited range of international and Comorian dishes.  There’s seating inside and outside (on a deck overlooking the Indian Ocean) and it’s home to a lovely pet lemur … it often sat on my shoulder while I was dining.  The location is very central. 

• Hotel Al Amal : Located on the outskirts of Mutsamudu, the restaurant offers a variety of dishes. They have indoor and outdoor seating options.  I saw on the deck overlooking the Ocean … and it was sublime.

• Al Quittor : The restaurant offers a variety of Comorian dishes, including seafood, and is popular with locals and visitors alike. It is located in the heart of Mutsamudu.

Getting Around Anjouan - TRANSPORTATION

They're a common mode of transportation on the island. Find them at the airport, and in town. Taxis in Anjouan are usually shared, and fares are negotiated with the driver

Known as "dolés," minibuses are another common mode of transportation on the island. They are shared and follow a set route. 

Private car with driver/4x4

Speak to the hotel staff and they can arrange a car with a driver to take you around the island or to specific destinations on Anjouan.  The manager of Karama Hotel did this for me. 

Getting to Anjouan - TRANSPORTATION

The airport in Mutsamudu is called Aéroport de Ouani Anjouan. There are daily flights to Anjouan from the other islands (but there are frequent issue with cancellations and over-booking). 

As indicated under this section for Grande Comore and Moheli, there are overfilled speedboats that travel between the three main islands of Grande Comore, Moheli and Anjouan. 

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO VISITING COMOROS - CONCLUSION 

There you have the journey I undertook in Comoros, a unique trip unlike most others.  It offered a chance to experience a world that is mostly untouched by tourism with streaks of authenticity running through the core of each island.  

Comoros is a destination that is sure to leave a lasting impression.  It's authentic.  It's (mostly) untouched.  It's engrossing.  It got under my skin and it will hopefully do the same for you.  But plan carefully to ensure you get the most out of it.  

ULTIMATE GUIDE TO VISITING COMOROS -  NOTE

There are inclusions and exclusions that can be completed to personalise the itinerary, depending on personal preferences.  It can be done within the timeframes suggested, slowed down or even accelerated a little.  

It really does depend on you, your budget, preferences and time constraints.  It also depends a bit on availability of services in Comoros (as infrastructure isn't great and things like flights can be cancelled without warning).  Some flexibility is needed. 

Please feel free to contact me regarding anything you’ve read in this guide. 

Further Information 

Getting to comoros - transportation.

The main airport in Comoros is Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport, which is served by a number of airlines including:

• Air France;
• Air Austral; 
• East African Air Express; 
• Air Madagascar; 
• Air Tanzania; 
• Turkish Airlines; 
• Ethiopian Airlines; and
• Kenya Airways.

These airlines provide regular flights from some major international airports in Europe, Africa, and the Middle East.

There are some freighters travel to Moroni from Zanzibar and Madagascar.  This option is cheaper than flying but it takes much more time.  Use www.sgtm.com to research passenger boat movements.   Note that the website is in French. 

Getting into Comoros - VISAS

Ensure you have a printed hotel, guesthouse or AIRBNB reservation with you to present to immigration for acquiring a visa on arrival at Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport along with a printed return or onward travel plane ticket.

I knew it was required but was unable to find a working printer during the 48-hour period prior my departure from Mauritius. I was unnerved but arrived with screenshots and PDFs on my iPhone.

It wasn’t satisfactory for immigration. Had it not been for a kind-hearted taxi driver by the name of El Arif standing near the immigration desk (yes the arrivals hall is just one big open room with no divisions between immigration, baggage claim and the exit) who noted my predicament and knew Daniel, the AirBNB host with whom I was going to be staying, I’d likely have been detained and perhaps sent away on a flight the next day. He offered to vouch for me, bringing a printed copy of the reservation back to the airport after dropping me off. I felt the fool (even though I couldn’t print despite trying).

I tried reasoning with the immigration staff, asking, “What happens to the piece of paper once you’ve finished with it?” It gets given back to the passenger - French-African bureaucracy at its best! 

Staying in Comoros - ACCOMMODATION

Consult the following websites for up to date information regarding prices and availability of accommodation throughout Comoros:

If you're having difficulty finding anything, then try searching in French (as many guesthouse owners advertise in French only, such as on Moheli).  

AirBNB and Booking.com are likely going to be your best options for finding accommodation. 

For specific recommendations, refer to the various sections throughout this guide named in like manner i.e., Staying on Moheli - ACCOMMODATION.  

Staying in Comoros - SAFETY

Comoros is generally a safe country for travellers, but like any destination, it is important to take precautions to ensure your safety.

Petty crime such as pickpocketing can occur in tourist areas and crowded places (including Volo Volo market), so it is important to keep a close eye on your belongings and avoid carrying large amounts of cash or valuable items.

It's generally best (in many countries) to avoid walking alone at night - take a taxi instead.  I had no issues walking around at night anywhere in Comoros but I can't say with certainty that nothing would ever have happened.  

Health facilities are developing world standard so do your best to avoid serious accident and injury (which means not taking any unnecessary risks) by using common sense.  If a serious accident does occur, then you may need to be airlifted to Kenya or Tanzania (so ensure this would be covered by your travel and medical insurance).  

By taking these precautions, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable trip to Comoros.

Communicating in Comoros - LANGUAGE

Comoros is a multilingual country with three official languages: Shikomoro (aka Comorian, a blend of Swahili and Arabic), French , and Arabic . 

Comorian is the most widely spoken language.   It’s a Bantu language with influences from Arabic and French.

French is commonly used in government, business (including hotels and restaurants and many other tourism services), and education, while Arabic is used mainly in religious contexts.

Many people in Comoros also speak Swahili, which is used as a lingua franca throughout East Africa.

Visitors to Comoros who do not speak Comorian, French, or Arabic (such as me) may find it helpful to use translation apps including Google Translate or iTranslate (if they work), which can be used offline (but they didn't work reliably for me).

Overall, the linguistic diversity of Comoros reflects the country's rich cultural heritage and adds to its appeal as an interesting destination.

Communicating in Comoros - PHONES AND SIM CARDS

There are two main telecom providers in Comoros.  You can get a SIM card from either of them.

Here's an overview of them, their package options, and where to find their stores:

• Comores Telecom (Telma) : Comores Telecom, also known as Telma, is the largest telecom provider in the country. They offer a range of prepaid SIM cards for visitors, including the "Tourist SIM" which is designed specifically for tourists. It costs around 10,000 KMF (approximately $23 USD) and includes 2 GB of data, 30 minutes of talk time, and 30 SMS messages. Telma stores can be found in Moroni and other major cities.
• Comores Telecom (Huri) : Comores Telecom also operates under the brand name "Huri" and offers a range of prepaid SIM cards. Their "Tourist SIM" costs around 5,000 KMF (approximately $11 USD) and includes 2 GB of data, 30 minutes of talk time, and 30 SMS messages. Huri stores can be found in Moroni and other major cities.  This is the one I bought and I was very happy with the service. 

Note that you can also purchase SIM cards from small mobile phone shops and kiosks in some areas, but it's recommended to purchase from a Telma or Huri store to ensure that the SIM card is legitimate and activated properly.

Spending in Comoros - CURRENCY AND MONEY MATTERS  

The official currency in Comoros is the Comorian Franc (KMF), which is used for many transactions.

While Euros may be accepted in some places, it's generally recommended to have local currency on hand for day-to-day expenses.

ATMs can be scarce in Comoros, especially outside of major cities, and may not always work or have cash available. Therefore, ensure you have enough cash on hand to cover expenses. 

Be aware of the existence of unofficial money in the form of the "zariba," a system of informal exchange that’s common in some parts of the country. Be cautious when using this system and only exchange money with trusted individuals (as did I, based on recommendations from the AirBNB host who’d been living in the country for many years).

Plan ahead and be prepared with local currency when travelling in Comoros.

Soloing in Comoros - TIPS

Solo travel in Comoros can be a rewarding experience, but it's important to take certain precautions and plan ahead.  Here is some general advice I always share to anyone planning to travel alone:

• be open to engagement with the local population - it'll help reduce feelings of loneliness that may arise;
• transport reading material or some form of entertainment with you for the long journeys;
• maintain an open-minded disposition particularly to new experiences wherever they present which will also serve to heighten intrigue and reduce the possibility of lonely thoughts creeping into your mind and heart;
• take a mobile phone (that's unlocked) with you and buy a local SIM card so that you can access the rest of the world if - and more realistically when - the need arises (such as times during which you are feeling isolated, frightened or lonely); and
• remember that no experience lasts forever. If you do start feeling isolated, lonely or anxious, remind yourself that you won't be there forever. Focus on the good you've experienced, remind yourself of your aptitude for overcoming barriers by thinking of past experiences of success and stoicism and treat yourself to something nice and familiar (whether it be a Netflix movie, down time with a glass of red wine and a book or an ice cream savoured while sitting before beautiful scenery).

Here are some tips for solo travellers specific to visiting Comoros:

• Respect local customs and dress modestly : Comoros is a predominantly Muslim country, so it’s important to be respectful of local customs and dress codes so as not to cause offence or draw unwanted attention to yourself.
• Learn some basic French or Comorian : French is widely spoken in Comoros and knowing some basic phrases can help with communication. Comorian is also spoken widely and knowing a few words or phrases can be helpful in connecting with locals.
• Choose your accommodation carefully : Look for accommodation that has good reviews and is located in a safe area. It's also a good idea to inform your accommodation of your solo travel plans and itinerary.

By following these tips, you’ll increase your chances of having a safe and enjoyable experience in Comoros.

Africa, Anjouan, Comoros, developing country, developing nation, Grande Comore, island country, island destinations, Moheli, natural wonderland, untouched by tourism

TRAVELLER, WRITER, PHOTOGRAPHER, Nurse

Ben, a seasoned solo traveller, writer, photographer, nurse, and health advocate, embarked on his global journey in 2003 at 18, transforming travel into his life's work and passion. His website reflects his extensive experience and insights, offering guidance on exploring the world uniquely and maintaining health while on the road.

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Returned from Comoros a week ago (9 nights trip). Picked wrong season (it was raining too much) and wrong time (presidential elections and following protests and curfew). The place is depressing, black lava rocks and ash mixed with trash, bad roads, smog in the city, empty shops, overpriced restaurants. Even Haiti was better.

Thank you for sharing your candid feedback. It sounds like your experience was indeed challenging, compounded by the unfortunate timing of weather and political events. Travel, as we know, has its array of uncontrollable elements, and it seems you’ve had a run with quite a few of them all in one trip.

Comoros does have its share of issues (some of which are mentioned in this article), and it’s clear that these significantly impacted your trip. Your perspective is valuable, and can hopefully serve as an important note for future travellers planning to visit the country, particularly regarding the timing of their visits.

Despite the conditions you faced, I hope there were moments within your journey that offered a glimpse into the unique beauty that Comoros holds (such as the nature on Moheli). For me, it’s often in these challenging destinations that I find the most profound stories and learnings.

Thank you again for your honesty, and I hope your next adventure brings more favourable conditions.

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Comoros — Attractions

The grandeur of the Comoros’ natural attractions is enough to make you want to stay for a few days. Its shores are laden with fine sand and fringed by palm trees, typical of an untouched beach paradise with unrivaled opportunities to see diverse sea life. Inland are quaint towns and cultural discoveries, plus beautiful mountains, lakes and vegetation that unfold each step of the way. From stunning rock formations shaped and reshaped by the volcanic Mount Karthala to the diving bays, laid back villages, and the distinct Arabian glamor of Moroni, the Comoros will never run out of pleasant surprises.

Mount Karthala

Mount Karthala is the most notable feature of Grande Comore not only for its “largest in the world” title, but because of its undeniable beauty. Its latest eruption may have flattened villages into a sea of ashes, but it also created spectacular landscapes on the mountain. During calmer days, the volcano giant is a popular hiking, walking and trekking spot. While the ascent can be challenging, the views from the top are unmatched with flora and fauna unique to Comoros. Address: Grand Comore, Comoros Phone: n/a Website: n/a

Grande Comore

The largest of the islands, Grande Comore is also home to the nation’s capital, Moroni, which exudes an intoxicating Arabian charm. Best known for the Vendredi Mosque and excellent beaches , the island is also home to Mount Karthala and Comoros’ second reserve, Coelacanth Marine Park. Divers will find Trou du Prophéte in the Misamiouli area particularly spellbinding. Address: Grande Comore, Comoros Phone: n/a Website: n/a

Dziani Boundouni

Another must-see attraction, Dziani Boundouni is a beautiful sulfur crater lake situated right in the heart of the island of Mohéli. It is a pleasurable walk from the capital town of Fomboni, which is also known for its beautiful beaches. Address: Mohéli Island, Comoros Phone: n/a Website: n/a

Mohéli Island

Mohéli is the smallest of the four main islands in the Comoros archipelago. It offers an interesting array of attractions, including the crater lake and the quaint fishing village of Fomboni. The locals have preserved a tradition of hand-built sailboats, and outsiders can freely observe Arab ships being constructed right on the shore. Mohéli Marine Park is located just off the island’s southern coast, and is best known for its population of green turtles and spectacular coral reefs. Niumashuwa Bay is a fine diving spot and a good starting point for visiting the marine park. Address: Mohéli Island, Comoros Phone: n/a Website: n/a

Anjouan Island

If Grande Comore has its Arabian Moroni village, Anjouan has a Swahili-Shirazi Mutsamudu town. The island’s capital is known for it’s unique-17th century feel, with old houses lining the twisting alleyways. In the center is the old citadel and some mosques. A short drive away are stunning beaches and breathtaking waterfalls, enhanced by abundant vegetation. Anjouan is also home to multiple perfume distilleries found in the town of Bambao. Address: Anjouan Island, Comoros Phone: n/a Website: n/a

If you have time to spare, the stunning French Mayotte Island is also worth a visit for more beaches and good diving facilities. Mayotte is also home to what is supposedly the largest lagoon in the world, which may be explored via a dugout canoe. The gem of the island is the Sulu waterfall, which drops straight into the sea. Address: Mayotte Island, Comoros archipelago Phone: n/a Website: n/a

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Japan Likes Tourists, Just Not This Many

The country has politely handled travelers for years, but as international visitors spill into previously untouristed spots, some residents are frustrated.

By Yan Zhuang

The writer spent several days elbowing through crowds in Kyoto and Fuji City, Japan.

On two recent occasions, a foreign tourist walked into Shoji Matsumoto’s barbershop, through a front door that grates loudly when opened more than halfway, wanting a haircut.

One was Italian, the other British. Mr. Matsumoto, who is 75 and speaks neither of their languages, didn’t know what to tell them. He picked up his scissors and began to cut, hoping that his decades of experience would carry him through the stilted encounters.

Tourists, propelled in part by a weak yen that makes their money go further in Japan, have been pouring into the country ever since it eased its coronavirus-related entry restrictions in 2022. Some officials, including Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, have raised concerns about overtourism. In March, there were more than three million international arrivals, a monthly record, and a more than 10 percent jump compared with March 2019.

Nearly two thirds of international visitors tend to be from South Korea, Taiwan and China. Last year, spending from foreign tourists made up about 9 percent of Japan’s gross domestic product.

Popular sites in cities like Kyoto, Japan’s ancient royal capital, feel increasingly unmanageable. Visitors are spilling into previously untouristed places, like small towns near Mount Fuji or the commercial district of Kyoto where Mr. Matsumoto cuts hair.

“Before, it was normal to see tourists in certain spots,” Mr. Matsumoto said from a low chair in his barbershop on a recent Saturday. “But now, they’re spreading out to random and unexpected places.”

That influx is testing the patience of a generally polite society.

In Kyoto and other heavily visited cities, some residents grumble about being priced out of hotel rooms or crowded out of buses and restaurants. Others say that tourists sometimes disrespect local customs by, say, chasing after geishas to photograph them or eating while walking, a behavior that is considered rude in Japan.

One day last month, it took Hiroshi Ban six hours — twice as long as usual — to visit Kyoto’s Heian Jingu shrine. Mr. Ban, 65, attributed the delay partly to tourists who hold up buses by counting out coins for the fare.

“Every day feels like a carnival here,” said Mr. Ban, an event organizer. “We can’t enjoy our daily lives in peace.”

Even those who directly benefit from tourism revenue worry that it might be unsustainable.

Hisashi Kobayashi, a taxi driver in Kyoto, said business was so good that taking a day off felt like passing up easy money. But many tourism-related industries were struggling to keep up with demand as they recovered from pandemic-era labor shortages, he said.

“When Japanese people come here, they feel they’re in a foreign land because there are so many tourists,” Mr. Kobayashi, 56, added as his taxi approached a bottleneck near a popular temple. “It’s not Kyoto anymore.”

Some rural locations are feeling the strain for the first time. One is Fuji City, about 200 miles by road east of Kyoto in Shizuoka Prefecture.

After a bridge with a direct view of Mount Fuji started to become popular on social media late last year, Shizuoka’s tourism department said on Instagram that it was a good spot for “beautiful, dreamlike pictures.” Left unsaid was that the bridge sat in a residential area with no visitor parking spaces, public toilets or garbage cans.

Many visitors littered, parked in driveways and in some cases dodged traffic to take photos from the bridge’s median strip, residents said in interviews.

Over a public holiday last month, about 300 tourists arrived daily for four days, standing in a line for photos that coiled down the street, said Mitsuo Kato, 86, who lives by the bridge.

“They just park here,” Mr. Kato said outside his home on a recent Sunday, as groups of tourists from South Korea diligently took photos of clouds that were obscuring Mount Fuji. “So we had to put up signs.”

Officials across Japan have been responding to the tourism surge with varying degrees of efficacy.

In Fuji City, the authorities erected a makeshift six-car parking lot and started to build a larger one that would fit 15 cars and include a bathroom, said Motohiro Sano, a local tourism official.

In a neighboring prefecture, Yamanashi, officials in the town of Fujikawaguchiko put up a billboard-size screen last month to deter tourists from photographing a Lawson’s convenience store whose blue awning sits beneath the mountain and became a staple of social media posts. The screen is now dotted with holes large enough to fit a phone camera lens, the local news media reported .

In Shibuya, a heavily visited area of Tokyo, officials announced plans to ban drinking alcohol outdoors at night in an attempt to curb bad behavior by young people and tourists.

And in Kyoto, where signs in train stations ask visitors to “mind your manners,” the government began running special buses for tourists this month.

At the city’s Nishiki market, where some residents have complained of finding grease stains on their clothing after squeezing through throngs of snacking tourists, Yoshino Yamaoka gestured to two signs hanging outside her barbecue eel restaurant.

Both said in English, “No eating while walking.” One had a larger font, and its text was underlined in red.

“People weren’t following it, so I put up this one with a stricter tone,” Ms. Yamaoka, 63, said of the bolder sign. But she wondered whether her new approach was too strict.

“Business depends on the tourists,” she said.

To beat the crowds on a recent weekend, some tourists visited popular Kyoto sites at sunrise or waited 40 minutes to eat at a popular ramen joint at 11 p.m. A few complained about the congestion they had helped to create.

“It’s a disaster,” said Paul Oostveen, 70, a tourist from the Netherlands, after leaving the Kiyomizu-dera Temple, a popular attraction.

From his empty barbershop, Mr. Matsumoto said that he had successfully cut the hair of his two foreign clients and that he wouldn’t turn away others who stumbled through his door.

But he worried about providing good quality service to customers he couldn’t understand, he said, and would prefer that non-Japanese speakers go elsewhere.

Even though tourism is good for the nation, he added over the drone of a radio, “There’s a part of me that’s not fully content.”

Yan Zhuang is a Times reporter in Seoul who covers breaking news. More about Yan Zhuang

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Rescuers continued searching for British TV presenter Michael Mosley on the mountainous Greek island of Symi on Saturday, the third day of a wide operation launched after he was reported missing by his wife.