olympus trip 35 35mm point and shoot film camera

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Point and Shoot

Olympus Trip 35 – Camera Review

Josh solomon.

October 3, 2016

olympus trip 35 35mm point and shoot film camera

As enthralling as photography can be, long days, months, and years spent shooting can wear you out. In the worst case, it can lead to a photographic malaise that can dismantle even the most well-built minds from the inside out. It can render the best shooters incapable of even the simple task of pressing a shutter button. It’s shooter’s block, our equivalent to writer’s block, and it hit me hard over the summer.

I jumped out of bed one morning full of energy, ready to take on the world with my trusty Nikon F and Leica M2. But instead of plunging into a world filled with beauty, intrigue, and possibility, I found my surroundings cold, ugly, and indifferent. The images I tried to form seemed trite and overplayed, and I soon lost confidence in my ability to make a decent picture. Even the storied reputations of my F and M2 failed to inspire me. Every time I peered through their viewfinders I saw nothing but dust in the pentaprism and emptiness between the framelines.

Sufficiently depressed, I decided to stay home and put my cameras on the shelf. And it was while I was lying face down on a pillow listening to the opening lines of Chicago’s “Hard To Say I’m Sorry” that I realized I did, in fact, need a little time away. But I didn’t need a full-on vacation from the hobby itself – no, that would be too drastic. I just needed a change from the manual cameras that sat on my shelf. I needed an easier camera, and I had a feeling one camera in particular could fit the bill – the Olympus Trip 35.

The Olympus Trip 35 is a camera I’d heard a lot about but had never tried myself. Its reputation for ease of use and high quality seemed the perfect cure for my shooter’s block. And if the Trip 35 was the prescription, the Pasadena Camera Show was the pharmacy. There I found a beautiful Trip 35 for an absurdly low price, bought it, and quickly threw it in my bag.

One would think the Olympus Trip 35 would seem out of place next to legendary cameras like the aforementioned Nikon and Leica, but it actually fits right in. This camera, although not as capable as the other two, holds an equally lofty place in photographic history. Just as the F and the M defined the SLR and rangefinder genres respectively, the Trip 35 defined the point-and-shoot game. More impressive still, the Trip 35 actually outsold the Nikon F and the Leica M2 by millions. Take that, fanboys.

Olympus achieved these massive numbers by appealing to the casual shooter rather than pro photographers, specifically focusing on the new generation of moneyed vacationers. Racing from landmark to landmark and airport to airport, these sightseers simply lacked the time and interest needed to learn the boring particulars of photography required to operate a camera. Instead, they required a camera that was simple to use, but sophisticated enough to beautifully capture their memories.

Good design marries aesthetics to functionality, and the the camera gods couldn’t have picked a better company to bring the Trip 35 to life. Olympus’ design house, fresh off the ingenious half-frame Pen F, struck gold again with the Trip. The design is classic Olympus; clean-cut lines and an impossibly small form factor, the Trip wastes no time and gets straight to the point. It’s as well designed as any machine of its day, more impactful when we recall that the Trip came of age in an era where cameras were still fully mechanical, save for the occasional battery powered light meter. Automation seemed a distant (and expensive) fantasy, so when Olympus created a genuine auto-exposure camera out of primitive nuts and bolts, the world took notice. This was in no uncertain terms an engineering miracle.

The Trip 35 accomplishes this sorcery by determining the amount of light that enters a Selenium photo cell surrounding the lens, and choosing a correct aperture based on this reading. The camera then chooses a shutter speed of either a 1/200th or 1/40th of a second and we get a perfect exposure. When the camera’s incapable of making an acceptable exposure, a little red flag shows up in the viewfinder and the shutter locks out. The magic of this system is that it takes all exposure-related worry out of our minds. We don’t have to agonize about aperture, shutter speed, or even battery life, a godsend for vacationers and anxious photo geeks.

But before we experience it, it’s quite easy to question the Trip 35’s simplicity. After all, how accurate could a camera this old and primitive be? And could the lens be good enough for our 21st century eyes? As I drove home from the camera show, my new Trip in the passenger seat next to me, these questions rolled through my mind. I really needed this camera to be decent, if I was to pull out of my photographic death spiral.

Just then, I received a text message from my sister. Can you pick up some pork buns in chinatown? thx. With this, I had my mission; buy some pork buns, shoot the Trip, and see if this ancient camera could walk the walk.

The first thing I noticed was its build quality. Comprised of metal and plastic, the Trip 35 is solid, but never heavy; lightweight, but never flimsy. The only disappointing aspect of the camera’s feel is its film advance wheel. A dinky plastic affair reminiscent of disposable cameras, this lackluster cog is forgivable when we remember that the Trip was built to be a consumer-level camera.

Peering through the viewfinder showed bright frame-lines with tick marks both for up-close shots and for landscape shots. These are helpful in view of the Trip’s lack of automatic parallax correction. Having used fancy Leica , Nikon , and Contax rangefinders renowned for brightness and clarity, the Trip’s viewfinder beats most of them. Its relative simplicity is a nice change from the cluttered and overly complex viewfinders of other machines. The Trip 35 also features a small window in the bottom right of the VF (affectionately dubbed the “Judas Window” by Trip 35 disciples) which shows both the chosen aperture and exposure setting on the camera.

So far, so good. But how was I to determine focus? I quickly realized that the Trip’s a scale-focus camera, which is not ideal for accuracy. But before I started feeling like Olympus left me all alone and helpless, I realized that they were kind enough to provide some handy distance-measuring tools. Settings along the lens barrel show a picture of one person for portraits, two people for pictures of two people, three people for group pictures, and a mountain symbol for everything in the distance, including mountains. I stopped hyperventilating, and realized that, for a point-and-shoot camera, this is more than enough. And for all you nitpickers, Olympus also included precise distance measurements in both meters and feet on the underside of the lens. Phew.

Once shooting the Trip started to shine, and I was easily able to focus on exactly what matters most in photography – composition. From the first frame I found myself joyfully snapping away at whatever tickled my fancy, even though I didn’t know what aperture values and shutter speeds the Trip 35 was choosing. Frankly, I didn’t give a damn. All that mattered to me was finding different angles, new ways to play with light, and how to capture Chinatown’s unique charm. It felt like with each and every frame, the Trip was dissolving my shooter’s block more and more, and I wanted to just keep shooting.

So the little Olympus and I danced through Chinatown’s colorful landscape, happily snapping away. In no uncertain terms, it was the most fun I’d ever had with a camera. Even though the heat of the afternoon beat on my shoulders and the sweat sizzled on my brow, the Trip 35 and I ran through the city without a care in the world. The streets led us to the door of a steamy Chinese restaurant, then a pile of steaming pork buns, then back to the equally steamy interior of my car. I didn’t care how long the journey took or how much fluid I lost in that heatwave. It seemed like I sweated out my shooter’s block, and I eagerly raced home to deliver the buns, and develop the film.

But something was nagging me about the camera the entire way home; the focus issue. Had I gotten the focus correct for every shot? How was I to trust those markings? How could I possibly live without a focusing aid? Anxiety began to rear its head again and I had to stop myself from speeding over to a one-hour photo lab to assuage my fears. I gripped the steering wheel tight and told myself to trust the Trip. Besides, I still had a job to do. These pork buns weren’t going to deliver themselves.

After delivering and munching on said pork buns with my contented sibling, I decided to get the roll developed and scanned. My fears were partially founded. Some of the shots, especially photos of close subjects or darker scenes, came back fuzzy due to a combination of my poor distance estimation and the nature of the Trip’s exposure and focus systems. While the Trip automatically helps achieve sharp focus by selecting a smaller aperture for greater depth-of-field, this is only possible in bright light. As things get dark, the ability to shoot at a smaller aperture quickly disappears. In these situations it can be really difficult to nail correct focus. One minor consequence of this is that shooters with an affinity for portraiture and those sweet bokeh balls will probably be disappointed by this camera.

But expecting creamy bokeh and close range performance from the Trip 35 (or most point-and-shoots for that matter) is like expecting a ‘93 Honda Civic to outpace a Tesla Model S. It just won’t happen, and trying will lead to frustration. But just like that Honda, if you regard the Trip 35 as a reliable machine good for an occasional joyride, it will never disappoint. The Trip 35 is capable of a great many things , but we must be careful to recognize and respect its own limits.

When we get the focus right, the Trip’s fantastic 40mm F/2.8 Zuiko lens delivers in spades. The lens is a front-focusing Tessar type lens, which means that it’s very simple and very sharp, and it retains this sharpness edge to edge without chromatic aberration, spherical aberration, or any kind of distortion due to its simple optical formula and Olympus’s masterful execution. The lens’ quality even overcame the limitations of expired film, and ended up giving me some great results.

For whom is this camera best suited? First and foremost, the Trip 35 might just be the perfect camera for the casual photophile. Olympus built this camera to document the daily adventures of the everyman, and the Trip does this beautifully. And for experienced shooters, the Trip 35 can be a great way to break free of shooter’s block, or inject our shooting with something fun and carefree. It emphasizes the art of composition rather than the cold calculations of exposure, but even more importantly, it reminds us to relax, have a pork bun, and not take ourselves too seriously.

Want to try the Trip 35 for yourself?

Buy it on ebay, buy it on amazon, shop b&h photo’s vintage gear, follow casual photophile on facebook and instagram.

[ Some of the links in this article will direct users to our affiliates at B&H Photo , Amazon , and eBay . By purchasing anything using these links, Casual Photophile may receive a small commission at no additional charge to you. This helps Casual Photophile produce the content we produce. Many thanks for your support. ]

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Camera Review
film camera
olympus Trip

Josh Solomon is a freelance writer and touring bassist living in Los Angeles. He has an affinity for all things analog. When not onstage, you can find him roaming around Southern California shooting film and humming a tune.

29 comments

Very nicely done.

Great review of the Trip! This is the camera that lured me away from Lomography and the whole low-fi aesthetic. While the metering system is somewhat primitive and the zone focusing can be imprecise, especially in low light, it’s obvious that all the money and work went into the lens. In the right circumstances it’s absolutely tack sharp. Once I started getting sharp images from my Trip, the Lomo LC-A+ and the Holga started looking a lot less appealing.

The Trip definitely has some big limitations but on its own terms it’s a great camera.

Here’s my Trip album on Flickr to get an idea.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/21156896@N07/sets/72157645739914959

Thanks for adding your Flickr album. It’s great for people to be able to see what these cameras can do in varied situations.

Thanks so much! Those images are fantastic; they really showcase what that lens can do. Funny you mention the LC-A+… ?

Thanks! The LC-A+ was the camera that got me back into using film after an extended dalliance with digital photography. I used it really heavily for about 2 years before becoming curious about other cameras. The fact that the Lomo is also a zone focuser made it very easy for me to switch to the Trip and the XA2.

Great write up Josh, and really nice album Neilson! I had to do a double take on some of those shots, especially the close up portraits, realizing that you had used a Trip.

I agree, what a great review and some fine shots on that flickr gallery. I’ve just bought my 50th Olympus Trip 35 and am steadily rebuilding them from head to toe. I’ve posted some reviews and other helpful reviews on my site https://trip35.co/

Great pictures from the Trip. You got to love these little cameras!

The Trip 35 was *made* for landscapes and group photos in good light outside. It’s really dang good for those things. For everything else, not so much! But like you, on a day when I’m just out and about shooting stuff, I find the Trip 35 to be big fun.

My last outing with my Trip 35: https://blog.jimgrey.net/2015/04/20/olympus-trip-35-revisited/

If I ever get on an airplane again I think I’ll be bringing this camera… We’ll see. Josh and your post have helped convince me. Thanks for sharing.

Great review of one of my favourite cameras and one of the best free cameras I’ve ever been given. The quality you can get from this little package has always astounded me, this is an example taken with just bog standard Poundland special film (Agfa Vista 200) https://the6millionpman.wordpress.com/2016/09/30/cardiff-bay-sunset-3/

And yet again I confess to being an Olympus fanboy.

Beautiful colors and range on that.

Great article Josh, and thanks for publishing it James. There wasn’t a link, but I started the Olympus Trip 35 users group on Facebook, here is the link. P.S. A few famous photogrpaphers in the group.

http://www.facebook.com/groups/OlympusTrip35

Hey my friend! Thanks for commenting. We did include a link there, it’s in the third to last paragraph where it says the Trip is “capable…” etc.

And for anyone down here in the comments, do check out the FB group. Amazing talent there shooting with all kinds of Trips.

The Trip Flickr group is worth checking out too. Lots of good stuff there.

https://flic.kr/g/5jsssh

Great write-up! I have three of these and, while I’m by no means a great photographer, I do love the pick-up-and-go nature of the Trip 35. For those who are interested, I spent an entire day refocusing the lens on one of mine;

https://teeritz.blogspot.com.au/2014/04/re-focusing-lens-on-olympus-trip.html

Almost drove me nuts!

That post is scary. You’re a brave man.

Bought a Trip after reading a recommendation by Ken Rockwell. At the time I thought I only ever needed one camera – an FE – and I had one. However, the Trip is great for other things. As you say, the pictures are so sharp. And its so easy to use.

I love my Trip 35. Fantastically sharp lens and incredibly easy to use! The zone focusing took a bit getting used to and I do still occasionally misfocus, but when that happens I embrace my inner William Klein. Also, my copy came with a lens cap and zipped up in a bag so the selenium is not at all worn out and the AE is spot-on. I actually trust shooting slide film in this camera more than any of my all-manual cameras!

Hi! Thank you so much. I am seriously considering to buy a Trip. I want to go traveling and bring a good camera. Do you think this one will do? And some people say it’s not really for taking photo’s in the dark/on parties. Are they right?

Thanks again 🙂

Hey Nikki! The Trip is the perfect camera for travel and casual outdoor shooting IMO, but it does suffer in low light without a flash. A little compact flash will help, and it does have a manual aperture override for accurate flash exposures.

If you’re going to be spending lots of time indoors I would suggest either picking up a cheap P&S with a built in flash, or upgrading entirely to a compact SLR/fixed-lens rangefinder with a fast (f/2 and under) lens for low-light shooting without a flash. Hope this helps!

Hello Nikki, I am the Admin of the Olympus Trips 35 Users Group, I recommend you join to get advice, and there are trustworthy sellers in the group.

See the website link below my comment

I’ve recently picked up aTrip 35 and have been very pleasantly surprised by the ease of use and picture quality. I even tried some low light close shots and had better results than I expected. Tip #1: use 400 speed film to increase versatility. You get more depth of field in any situation and therefore more focussing accuracy. You will also hold off the “red flag” for a stop or two. Tip #2: learn how to guesstimate the zone distances as accurately as possible. If you’re shooting close-up in lower light try to nail the actual distance e.g. set the lens on 1 meter and try to be 1 meter away. Use a tape measure at first so you can see what the distances look like. As the light falls or distances get closer then more accuracy is required from the photographer. Tip #3: remember that you can press the shutter button half way down to lock the exposure. Meter off a mid-tone then recompose and shoot. This will help with back lighting and other tricky light. Tip #4: try to shoot within the limits of the design and you will get good results. The Trip 35 was meant for family holidays and a whimsical approach to photography. If you require critical focussing or metering the Trip was never really designed for that. Enjoy!

Hi, Josh. Great writing. I enjoyed reading your review and laughed so much at the pork bun adventure! Thanks!

Thirty-seven years of shooting film and the Trip 35 was a camera I’d always ignored for being ‘too simple’. I spotted one in a local charity shop last week that was cased, boxed and in lovely condition and I got it for next to nothing. I ran half a roll of FT-12 ASA50 cinema film through and the results were far better than I expected. I started out on Olympus all those years ago (still use them) but I’m a bit ashamed of myself for ignoring this little gem. My 8 year old is just starting to take an interest in photography and this is going to be ideal for her.

Thanks for a great review and for pointing out a couple of little features I hadn’t spotted.

Quick pedantic note: In virtually everything I’ve seen online about the Trip 35, there’s one thing that nobody ever seems to say:

The Trip 35 is essentially the full-frame version of the earlier half-frame Pen EES and EES-2.

I had an EES-2 and it was a great shooter for an inexpensive camera. It worked exactly the same way as the Trip: the selenium meter around the lens chose one of two shutter speeds or raised a red flag if there wasn’t sufficient light; it had a four-icon zone focus lens; there was one manual speed for flash along with adjustable f-stops when not in Auto. Of course, the Trip had a different focal length lens to produce a full-frame image, but I suspect it’s of a very similar design to the EES-2’s. And note that the Trip 35’s top plate includes the EES-2’s hot shoe, along with the back cover/rewind knob from the Pen series (and frame counter from the Pen F series), and the viewfinder is essentially the same as the EES-2’s.

My point is: the Trip 35’s super-successful design wasn’t actually new, the camera was scaled up from the already successful Pen EES series.

Thank you… Now I’m on my way for fun an Mindfulness 🙂 A very brilliant text who give me interests and energy. Thank you 🙂

Just bought one, trying it out tomorrow. I would suggest to buy a tripod and a self-release cord, set it to A and just set for the distance. I used to carry a 110 film camera back in 1977 and was taught photography back in 1981 from a WW2 vet. Warhol used a Pentax 35afm because he could set a high iso without flash.

Olympus Trip 35 Review – A cult classic point & shoot

8 May, 2013

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I’m certainly not the first and I suspect I won’t be the last to write a little something about the Olympus Trip 35. I have read this camera had sales figures of around 10,000,000. Olympus used the ‘trip’ moniker on a lot of cameras subsequent to the one in question here, so who knows how many trip 35’s were sold? What is clear is that the number is vast! You only need to go on eBay and see how many are for sale at any one time. Just search for ‘Olympus trip’ on google and you will find entire websites dedicated to the things. This camera is a popular little snapper and has been since it hit the market in the late 60’s.

It’s production ran from 1967 through to 1984! It’s popularity was helped along by David Bailey and by the fact that the very simple 40mm lens is exceptionally high quality. It was touted as a camera that could take professional quality images yet is small and very easy to use … No wonder they sold so many!

The name “Trip” comes from the the idea that it was intended as a camera for taking on holiday. I guess this translates to a camera for everyone. And that it really is! This camera is a true point and shoot that even the most inexperienced photographer could use with little chance of failure. This is due to the slightly limited but very simple design and operation. The camera is almost entirely automated for all situations apart from shooting with a flash. Load the camera with a film between 25 and 400iso, set it as such on the dial around the front of the lens and you can let the camera do pretty much the rest.

The selenium cell based light meter effectively powers the cameras operation. With the camera set to ‘A’, based on the light hitting the meter it will choose the most appropriate aperture between f2.8 and f22. It will also choose either 1/40th or 1/200th for the shutter speed. If the amount of light isn’t adequate for at very least 1/40th and f2.8 it will simply prevent the photo from being taken. It tells you this is happening by popping up a little red flag in the viewfinder. If this happens it is intended that the user attach a flash.

If taken off ‘A’ and an aperture selected manually the meter and the flag are disabled and the camera set to shoot at 1/40th. The assumption is that a flash would be attached and that an appropriate aperture for the subjects distance would be selected. Of course it also means that as long as you are happy shooting a 1/40th you can just choose your own aperture and shoot without the little flag stopping you. This does lead to the camera being used more creatively and outside of the way it was intended but more on that later!

Focusing is achieved by selection of one of four possible preset distances which are denoted by four familiar pictures. A head and shoulders for the closest focusing and a picture of mountains for infinity. The second furthest focusing distance (denoted by three little people) is highlighted in red. The same red as the ‘A’. This is no accident, in daylight set the camera to ‘A’ the the three little red people and you can shoot away with little worry of out of focus images.

This simplicity does make for a very enjoyable shooting experience, but with a little imagination the camera can be used (as previously mentioned) outside of the intended way.

The first little trick is quite an obvious one really. The camera can be tricked into over or under exposing by changing the film speed. Eg 200 ISO film in camera and up to 1ev of under exposure can be achieved by setting it to 400iso. You could of course also dial in up to 3ev of over exposure. An example of where this might be useful would be shooting a backlit subject eg a person stood in front of a window.

Another trick is for low light shooting. When set to ‘A’ low light shooting is somewhat limited. That pesky red flag rears its little head and a 400iso limit is a little low. As mentioned before though, the little red flag can be disabled, and if not using the lightmeter there is no need to worry about what ISO the camera is set to. So as long as you are happy at 1/40th you can put whatever ISO film in you like and manually select exposure with the aperture control. There are in fact many people who do this some of whom post in the Flickr group. It’s not something I have tried since resurrecting the camera… But I’m going to … And will post some shots when I get around to it!

So what’s all the fuss about? Surly there are more highly specified cameras that allow shooting in more circumstances without such limitations. Well yes, but it’s the simplicity that is the charm, combined with a superb lens and the fact that they so rarely go wrong it’s hard not to love this camera!

So that’s the Trip 35, a cult classic, incredibly simple to use, hardy, cheap as chips and packed with charm … Basically, buy one! Use it, love it!

Additional – I have done a ‘Through the viewfinder’ article on this camera which can be found here Through the Viewfinder – Olympus Trip 35

Some useful links: Help with dating your trip Instructions for repairing your trip 35 A possibly useful modification

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Trip 35 and some very cheap film and Connie. on Olympus Trip 35 Review – A cult classic point & shoot

Comment posted: 23/05/2013

The Olympus Trip 35 doesn’t need a battery to operate, which is pretty darn cool if you ask me. It uses a solar-powered selenium photocell light metre to automatically set the aperture and select a shutter speed.

First up, the Olympus Trip 35 has an ISO range of 25 to 400, which makes it perfect for a film stock like Kodak Gold 200. You can use (the crème de la crème) Kodak Portra 400, but because that film stock is so expensive, I’d use the cheaper Kodak Gold 200 or Kodak Ultramax 400 in this point-and-shoot camera. You could even try a nice black and white film stock, although I haven’t done that yet myself.

The Olympus Trip 35 just has two shutter speeds – 1/40s or 1/200s, which the camera chooses automatically based on the available light. The camera’s aperture ranges from f/2.8 to f/22, which it also chooses automatically when in “A” mode. You can take the camera into Aperture-priority mode by twisting the aperture ring on the lens, but there’s really no need to.

The camera has a hot shoe where you could sync with a flash, although I’ve not tried that yet.

Lastly, the only thing you really need to think about when using the Olympus Trip 35 is the focus setting. The camera has four focus zones marked by four symbols: portrait, two people, a group of people and landscape. It’s relatively easy to figure out what focus range you need, but if you need more specifications, the focus zones are 1 metre, 1.5 metres, 3 metres and infinity. For most travel photos, you’re going to stick to the landscape focus zone.

Is the Olympus Trip 35 easy to use?

Once you get the hang of it, yes, the Olympus Trip 35 is so easy to use! The first step is to choose your film stock. The ISO ranges from 25 to 400 so you’ll want to choose a film stock in that speed. (Kodak Gold 200 and Ultramax 400 are some of my favourites).

Next, you need to load the film. There’s a small release button on the left-hand side to pop open the back cover. The 35mm film loads in like most other 35mm film cameras. You need to pop the rewinder knob up, fit in the film and push the rewinder knob back in. Then thread the leader part of the film into the take-up spool making sure that the teeth are grabbing onto the perforated part of the film. Tighten the film by using the film advance wheel, making sure the rewinder knob is turning as you crank the film advance. Close the back of the camera and advance the film three times until the counter is at 0.

Make sure you’ve set your ISO to match your film stock. You can do so by twisting the outer ring of the lens.

Make sure the aperture is set on “A” so that the camera can decide what aperture to use. Once you do that, the camera will decide on either 1/40s or 1/200s for the shutter speed based on the available light.

close up of Olympus Trip 35 lens and controls

Next, choose your focus zone. If you’re taking a portrait, use the portrait focus zone, if you’re taking a landscape, use the landscape focus zone. It’s pretty simple.

Then you look through the viewfinder you’ll notice that you can see the lens in the viewfinder. That’s because it’s a parallax viewfinder, rather than a mirror system like you see in most DSLR cameras. The viewfinder in the Olympus Trip 35 has parallax markings, which help you frame up an image when your subject is close to correct for this viewing error.

The second, very small window you see under this (which is called the Judas window – don’t ask me why) shows the aperture session and distance symbol that you’re using.

Once you look through the viewfinder, click the small shutter button on the top right to take the picture.

If a small red flag appears in the viewfinder, it just means that the camera has decided there’s not enough light and won’t take the photo.

Finding an Olympus Trip 35

I think what sold me on the Olympus Trip 35 was how easy it was to use. I had just started my journey back into film photography and I already had the 100% manual Canon AE-1. I wanted something light, enjoyable and fun to use, while still being vintage.

I think I stumbled across the camera while perusing YouTube and thought I’d look it up. I was surprised at the range of cost. Some were selling for over $300 CAD, while others were listed for only $60 CAD.

I learned that people were buying these cameras cheap, replacing the exterior with new leather and reselling them for a lot more, which is why you see Olympus Trip 35s in fun colours. I ended up looking at three Olympus Trip 35s that were for sale but weren’t functional before buying the one I found. There are two major things you need to look out for when searching for an Olympus Trip 35.

First, make sure the aperture blades aren’t stuck. Sticky aperture blades is pretty common in these vintage cameras. You can test to make sure the aperture works correctly by looking through the front of the lens as you change the apertures and pressing the shutter. The aperture blades should change accordingly, opening and closing with ease. If it doesn’t it’s not the end of the world. There are a couple of tutorials on how to fix this online.

close up of Olympus Trip 35 viewfinder and Judas window

Second, make sure the selenium photocell functions. This is key because if doesn’t work properly, the camera won’t metre light properly and your images won’t come out. To test this, you can place your hand in front of the photocell, covering it completely. Try to take a photo, if the red flag appears, it means that it works. If it takes a photo, then it means the selenium photocell isn’t working.

I looked at three different Olympus Trip 35s where the sellers didn’t know if it worked properly or not. I ended up passing on all three before finding one at a camera store in Collingwood that actually worked.

Then I put just one roll of (relatively) cheap film through it and found it worked perfectly.

The tip is to keep a lens cap on it or in a case while not using the camera. Use this handy guide for more tips when buying an Olympus Trip 35.

Why the Olympus Trip 35 is a great travel film camera?

The Trip name is a reference to its intended market—people who wanted a compact, functional camera for holidays.

For me, I think the joy of it is wrapped up in one image I took while on a camping trip in the summer. I was headed out on a kayak on Stormy Lake near Restoule Provincial Park. I wanted to bring my camera, but because I use my camera for my wedding photography business, there was no way in hell I was putting it in a kayak, even if it was protected by a dry bag. I just didn’t want to take that chance. So I put my phone and my Olympus Trip 35 in a dry bag and set off.

I had just brought my film camera out to take a photo when suddenly, a loon popped out of the lake in front of my kayak. I love the sounds of a loon and had heard them often, but I had never seen one so close. I snapped a quick photo of it with my Olympus Trip 35. I didn’t have to worry about aperture, shutter speed and I knew I already had it on landscape focus, so I just pointed the camera at the loon and snapped the photo.

By the time I put down my film camera and picked up my phone to take another photo, the loon had dove back into the depths and when it resurfaced again a few minutes later, it was too far away.

I had to wait another 3 weeks before I saw that photo, and it was even more magical once I saw the image developed.

So why is the Olympus Trip 35 such a great travel film camera?

Hopefully, by now I’ve convinced you that it is easy to use. The camera is lightweight and compact, plus it won’t accidentally take a photo if you’ve got it stashed in your bag. Plus, since it doesn’t need batteries, all you really need to worry about is making sure you have enough film!

Olympus Trip 35 sample photos

So far, I’ve put four rolls of film through this camera and I’ve loved how it turns out every single time. The camera is so light, it fits in my waist bag, and makes shooting a breeze. I can’t wait to take this on my next photography adventure! Here are some sample photos from the Olympus Trip 35.

Love film photography? Join Grainery.

I’m pretty new to film, but I’ve absolutely LOVED this new app called Grainery . It’s Instagram-inspired but focuses solely on analog photography. It’s really new, the actual app for iPhone and Android is still in development, but the website works perfectly. And it’s free! Plus, the guy who is developing it is super grassroots and is planning to keep it ad- and algorithm-free.

If you are looking to upgrade to Grainery+, it’s only $3/month, which helps support the developer. (Not sponsored, just something I genuinely LOVE.)

If you love film photography, then what are you waiting for! Join Grainery and follow me @mywanderingvoyage . It’ll be fun!

Love beautiful photos?

I’ve launched a print shop!! After a couple of years of imposter syndrome, I finally launched my own print shop and I am stoked to share it with you!

You can hang up your favourite prints in your home, get a canvas print or even print on metal! Check out the Print Shop now!

Want to know when a new print collection drops and get exclusive discount codes? Sign up for the Print Shop list and you’ll be the first to know!

Olivia Rutt

Olivia Rutt is the travel writer and photographer behind My Wandering Voyage, a travel website helping working millennials find time to travel. She shares insight in trip planning, travel inspiration and photography tips. Olivia hails from southern Ontario, Canada where she works in the media industry between travels. Follow Olivia on Instagram where she shares her travel photos, or catch up with her on Facebook or Twitter.

Against the Grain: A Journey Back to Film Photography

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Best way to organize your travel photos

Mywanderingvoyage.

Greek Easter on Antiparos 🇬🇷⁠⁠Antiparos is so easy to get to from Paros, it's just a short ferry ride from Pounta. Once you're there you can discover so much on foot, from the medieval castle to the delicious seaside restaurants. ⁠⁠We decided to come back for Greek Easter, which was happening during our time on the island. ⁠⁠The square filled up quickly and I couldn't stop laughing as we tried to keep up with the dances. I only brought my film camera, so I can't wait to get my film back from that night!⁠⁠@sillylittlemermaid and @brrjit I'm so glad I could spend Greekster with you 🩵⁠⁠#destinationgreece #travelgreece #greece #paros #parosisland #parosgreece #greeceislands #greekislands #greecetravel #antiparos #greekeaster #visitgreece

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Olympus Trip 35 | 35mm Point and Shoot Film Camera

Olympus trip 35 | 35mm point and shoot film camera .

Step back in time and join the legacy of film photography with the Olympus Trip 35, a true icon born in 1967. This vintage gem is not just a camera; it's a portal to the golden era of point-and-shoot photography and an invitation to embark on a timeless journey.

Imagine holding a piece of history in your hands. The Olympus Trip 35, designed to effortlessly slip into purses and bags, remains an unrivaled classic. In 1969, it graced the world, and today, it stands as one of the most compact and versatile cameras ever crafted.

But this isn't just a trip down memory lane; it's a chance to own a piece of photographic heritage. Our expert team restores, tests, and cleans each Trip 35, ensuring that despite its age, your camera performs as flawlessly as it did during the summer of '69. It's not just a camera; it's a time machine that transports you to moments captured with soulmates, puppy dog eyes, and the sunsets marking the end of college days—straight out of the box.

Elevate your photography skills and make a statement with a timeless piece that transcends generations. The Olympus Trip 35 isn't just a camera; it's a timepiece, a collector's dream, and the perfect entry into the enchanting world of film photography. So, why settle for ordinary when you can make every shot extraordinary with the Olympus Trip Film Camera? Start your film photography journey or enhance your collection—either way, you're in for a fun-filled, vintage adventure!

When it comes to the Olympus Trip 35 film camera, you can’t go wrong. Don't forget to put on a camera strap before you walk out the door! ( PS we sell straps too! )

By the way, protect your camera for 1-2 years with our protection plan . We cover all boo boos at no cost to you.

Features + Benefits:

One of the best selling film cameras of all time
Ability to choose your own ISO (it’s all manual, remember)
Offers Shutter Priority mode
A great starter camera for learning how to shoot film
Unique metal body
40mm F2.8 lens
35mm film ( check out our film selection )
No batteries needed!
Extremely portable and compact

Professionally restored, tested, and cleaned.

Functions 100%, including the light meter.

We restore, test, and clean all of our cameras to ensure that despite its age, your Cute Camera works as well as it would have if purchased it in 1976. This means that you’ll be able to capture your soulmate’s smile, your puppy dog’s eyes, or the sunset of your last day at college – straight out of the box.

A "very good" body will have minimal signs of wear and tear. Examples include slight impurities like worn leather or metal, signs of age on the bottom plate, and dull marks.

A “good” body will also look nice but have some additional potential cosmetic wear such as spots with discoloration, worn down metal or small scratches somewhere on the body.

An “average” body will be a more severe case of cosmetic wear like more extreme discoloration or worn down metal, exterior or interior black specs, deeper scratches, or lines in the eye prism.

We want you to love everything about your new camera. From its vintage design to its perfect imperfections. But if you don't, we make returns as easy as possible.

If you are not feeling your Cute Camera, just send it back within 30 days and we will take care of the rest.

All of our Cute Cameras come ready to use as soon as you take it out of the box. We include the lens and battery ** so you can start making nostalgic memories. Just add the film of your choosing and you are good to go.

Don't forget to pick up some film before you checkout! :)

**Non-USA Customers: Due to shipping restrictions we are unable to include the batteries for your Cute Camera. However, they can be easily picked up at most drug/grocery stores.

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Just send it back to us and we will take care of the rest!

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Olympus trip 35 photo examples, customer reviews.

Camera is beautiful and in excellent condition as if it was never used almost brand new for being a vintage 1970s camera ! So excited to use it for my Disney trip!

Perfectly matched description. Great camera, works perfectly!

5 stars review from Ally

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Olympus TRIP 35

The Olympus TRIP 35 is a full-sized compact EE camera based on the Pen EES. It first went on sale in 1968. The name reflects its suitability as a convenient camera to take on trips. The TRIP 35 became very popular as a camera that combined ease of use, reliability and a low price with superb photographic performance. It remained a best-seller for over the next 20 years since its launch.

The Olympus Trip 35 Review: Everything You Need To Know

I’ve worked with many Olympus Trip 35s over the years and I’ve discovered the pros and cons of this brilliant little rangefinder camera!

The Olympus Trip 35 is so popular because it’s very easy to use, it has a great lens and it’s ideal for the novice photographer. Also, the Olympus Trip 35 is one of the only 35mm cameras powered by the sun, making it really handy to take on holiday with you. Since 1967 10 million units have been sold, which is a tremendous amount even today.

If you want to know how this camera compares to others, how much you should be paying, some of its common issues and much, much more then read on!

I’ve worked with a hell of a lot of Trip 35s over the last few years and I like them because they’re really simple. If there’s something wrong with a Trip 35 I usually know it pretty much instantly because they aren’t especially complicated.

I’ve sussed out all the common issues, what can be fixed easily and what spells the end for an individual Trip 35. Usually, it’s lens fungus or an unreactive aperture that means doom for this little camera.

After years of working with them, I took one to the south coast of England to do a full review and I was actually pleasantly surprised by it. As you’ll see throughout the article, there are actually some good pictures that came from this ancient camera.

Some shots were let down by the very real limitations of this camera but on the flipside, due to the brilliant 40mm Zuiko lens, when the exposure is correct, its shots are great.

There are a lot of pros and cons to this camera so it’s well worth reading up on it to figure out if it’s the right fit for you. I enjoyed shooting it more than I expected but it wouldn’t be a camera that I’d rely on regularly.

Olympus Trip 35 Specs

Format – 35mm

ISO – 25 – 400

Battery – Solar Powered Selenium Battery

Exposure – Automatic

Shutter Speeds – 40 – 200

Flash – Hot Shoe

A Brief History Of The Olympus Trip 35

Introduced in 1967 and rolling on until 1984, the Olympus Trip 35 was completely ahead of its time. Sporting a solar-powered light meter in the late 60’s was pretty special.

Of course, Olympus’ market audience was pretty obvious, being named ‘Trip’, it’s kind of spelt out for you. Strong, reliable, doesn’t need any batteries, anyone could use it, that pretty much ticks all the boxes when it comes to a holiday camera.

Incredibly, over 10 million Trips were sold (Up for debate) and of course, they’re still being bought and sold to this day.

How Does The Olympus Trip 35 Battery Work?

The Olympus Trip 35 is powered by the sun using a selenium light meter which is the ring around the lens. This powers the light meter and allows the camera to choose the shutter speed and aperture (depending on which settings you have on). This would have been very unusual in its time but the fact that it’s still reliable today is brilliant.

Is The Trip 35 Lens Good?

Yeah, the Olympus Trip 35 has a pretty good lens but I’ve got to say, there are quite a few drawbacks. The lens itself is a beautiful 40mm 2.8 Zuiko lens, it’s pretty high quality for a camera that feels like a point-and-shoot.

I’d say the main drawback is that the focus is zonal and you only have 4 options. You should be able to see above, there’s a picture of one person, then two, then a group and then a landscape symbol. These are your focus options and it’s basically, 1.5m, 2m 3m and 6m and beyond.

This does limit the camera quite a lot but you’ve got to forgive a 50-odd-year-old camera sometimes.

The focal length is interesting, 40mm is pretty unusual but it’s still just wide enough to take the kind of pictures you’d usually take when you go on your holidays. It’d probably be preferable to have a 35mm lens but beggars can’t be choosers.

The Olympus Trip 35 Compared To The Olympus OM10

It’s worth comparing the Olympus Trip 35 with the Olympus OM10 as they’re currently at similar prices.

The Olympus Trip 35 isn’t that similar to the Olympus OM10, the Olympus Trip 35 is a small point-and-shoot rangefinder and the OM10 is an SLR however, it’s good to see what the Olympus Trip 35 is like in comparison to another well-known camera.

The Olympus OM10 would provide much better shots as it has better quality lenses and more control however, the Olympus Trip is more convenient, more compact and easier to use.

How Much Is The Olympus Trip 35 Worth?

Currently, the Olympus Trip 35 is worth around $100-125 or £70-100. You can of course get the Trip 35 for less if you try bidding for it on eBay or search thrift stores and flea markets but it’s worth trying to make sure that your Trip 35 is all working correctly.

What Kind Of Photography Is The Olympus Trip 35 Best For?

The Olympus Trip 35 is unsurprisingly best for travel-type photography. This camera was made with travel in mind as it’s small, compact, strong, easy to use and doesn’t require any batteries. Otherwise, this is also a good camera for day-to-day use. Photographers like David Bailey championed the Olympus Trip 35 believing that it was an incredibly high-quality camera.

Although the Olympus trip 35 has a great lens it’s not necessarily overly accurate and it’s not easy to focus correctly so despite the fact that it has a 2.8 lens it doesn’t mean it’s very likely that you’ll be able to focus correctly close range and get the most out of that lens.

This is not necessarily ideal for more professional types of photography and is definitely better to be used in day-to-day life and travel photography.

Is The Olympus Trip 35 Fully Manual?

The Olympus Trip 35 has two settings, one is an automatic setting that chooses your aperture and shutter speed for you, it decides between a shutter speed of 40 and 200 and between apertures of 2.8 and 22.

Alternatively, you can decide the aperture and the shutter speed will be decided by the camera. All focusing is manual and all ISO needs to be changed manually.

How To Use The Olympus Trip 35

Olympus Trip 35 is a very simple camera to use once you get the hang of it, until then understanding its limitations can be slightly hard.

If your camera seems not to be working properly try to leave it in the sun for some time to effectively charge its battery.

To open the back of the camera there is a small lever on the bottom of the side of the camera which just needs to be pulled down until the back pops open.

To change the aperture just rotate the ring at the base of the lens, this ring will show numbers from 2.8 two 22. If you want to shoot in automatically then turn it all the way around until the red ‘A’.

To change the ISO you just need to rotate the ring on the outer edge of the lens until you are to the correct ISO.

In order to focus you need to rotate the black ring on the lens. The closest focus mode is portrait mode, then there is middle-range portrait row mode, next, there are people standing further away from you and finally, there is a full landscape mode.

To attach a flash you simply have to slide it into the hot shoe located on the top middle of the prism.

To shoot and wind on you just have to press the shooting button on the top of the camera and then wind the black winder on the back of the camera until you can’t wind it any further.

To rewind the film you must first press the black button on the bottom of the camera to release the film and then wind the silver winder on the top left of the camera all the way back until it feels loose.

Common Faults Of The Olympus Trip 35

As the Olympus Trip 35 is a very old camera it has a number of common faults, hopefully, I can shed some light on these and help you avoid them or potentially fix them.

Commonly the red flag of the Olympus trip 35 will stop working, the red flag usually shows you when the scene would be too under-exposed. The red flag would appear at the bottom of the viewfinder when you are looking through it and would usually stop you from taking a picture if it’s too dark.

Sometimes the lens won’t react correctly to light, this is a great thing to check because if this is happening then it’s not really something that you can stop and it will ruin your photos. If this is happening the only advice I can give is to put it in the sun for a bit to see if this charges your selenium battery.

It’s likely that the light seals have worn away unless you bought your camera from a reputable dealer. You will probably have to replace a small number of light seals just to ensure that you do not get light leaks, this is fairly easy and if you want to find out how to do it then go to this link .

Lastly, the lens may have fungus and if the fungus is internal and it’s not something that would be easy to fix it would be much simpler just to get another one.

Final Word On The Olympus Trip 35

This is a great camera for travel and is certainly a camera to consider using. Personally, it’s not my kind of camera, I prefer more control and this just doesn’t cut it for me!

For a camera of its age, it truly is fantastic, a solar-powered vintage wonder that can still produce some beautiful shots!

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Olympus trip 35 35mm zone-focus film camera.

T alk about the essence of 'iconic' 35mm compact cameras of yesteryears, cameras that help bring photography to the masses, cameras that are as equally functional as it is easy to use, cameras that are automatic but do not require a battery to operate, cameras with super sharp f/2.8 lenses, and the Olympus Trip 35 is always the one camera that will come to mind.

The Olympus Trip 35 , a fully automatic viewfinder camera, is a point-and-shoot 35mm compact model manufactured by Olympus. It was introduced to the market in 1967 as a compact, functional camera for holidays, went on to become very popular among the masses, and sales ended in 1984 after a prolonged production run, with over ten million units sold.

The camera is fitted with a coated non-interchangeable 40mm f/2.8 D. Zuiko lens, acknowledged as being very sharp and capable of capturing high-quality images, and operates as a programmed automatic with only two shutter speeds, at 1/40th sec or 1/200th sec. at apertures of between f/2.8 to f/22.

SCL Photography Guide: The Olympus Trip 35 Film Camera A fresh look at an old classic, to get you shooting your old Trip 35 or perhaps to interest you in investing in this great little film camera. Includes guide to buying, checking, loading and shooting with the camera. Bonus flash guide at the end. Thanks, Rob.

A low-light lock, with a red flag indicator, prevents you from taking under-exposed shots or trying it with the lens cap on.

Production Models

The design of the camera is simplicity itself. Early production units of the Trip 35 are manufactured with a silver shutter release button, with a film ISO speed rating from 25 to 200. Later production units, manufactured after 1978, come with a black plastic shutter release and a higher film ISO speed rating of 25 to 400. The Trip 35 is also available in black, which is much sought after by collectors.

The lens and lens mount are located centrally on the front of the camera, with a viewfinder window on the right front of the top plate, and a flash sync socket on the lower left of the lens mount.

On the top plate are the rewind crank, housed in a nice recessed on the left of the top plate, the accessory shoe (located slightly off-center), the shutter release button, and on the right, the frame counter.

The Trip 35 comes with a plain film back, with only the viewfinder eyepiece and film forward wind at the back of the top plate. The hinge-type film back is opened by pulling down on a latch lever lock located on the film chamber side of the film box.

The bottom plate carries the tripod socket and the rewind release button.

The film box is Olympus easy-load type, with the film chamber, shutter frame window, film guide sprocket, and a multi-slot takeup spool laid sequentially from left to right. Film loading is the normal 2-blank shot to forward the film to frame 1.

Year of Production

If you are interested in knowing when your camera was produced, you need to open the film compartment, remove the pressure plate on the back of the door by sliding it free from its locating pins, and look for the 3-character manufacturer's code on the back of the pressure plate.

The 1st character or letter (in later models) signifies the assembly plant.
The 2nd number represents the last digit of the year of assembly, e.g. 6 = 1976, 0 = 1980
The 3rd number or letter represents the month of assembly, 1-9 for Jan-Sep, X, Y, and Z for Oct-Dec.

For example: If the code reads N2Y, then the production was in November 1972

Viewfinder Readout

The viewfinder is an albada-type bright frame, with frame lines and parallax markings for closer focusing.

There is a second, very small window under this, nicknamed the "Judas window", which shows the current aperture setting and distance symbol which are on the lens barrel.

A small red flag will appear in the viewfinder if the auto-exposure mechanism decides there is not enough light and refuses to fire.

Film ISO Speed

The camera will accept films with an ISO speed, for later models, of 25–400. Earlier models, from the first few years of production, had a maximum ISO speed of 200. A hot shoe and a Prontor-Compur sync connector provide for flash photography.

Zone Focusing

The Olympus Trip 35 focuses manually with a simple four-position zone-focus system, with distance settings displayed on the top scale in graphic form, and a bottom scale calibrated in both meters and feet. Focusing distances are 1 meter, 1.5 meters, 3 meters, and infinity.

Shutter Speeds

In Auto Mode, the shutter speed is set to 1/200th sec, and exposure is automatically controlled by aperture opening, whilst in manual or flash sync mode, the shutter is set to 1/40th sec, and a range of aperture openings from f2.8 to f22 can be selected for the shot.

Battery Not Included

The Olympus Trip 35 is built with a solar-powered selenium light meter, and it does not need any battery for it to run and operate. It is ideal for both the new user just getting into photography or the seasoned operator who wants slightly better control over the aperture setting and zone focusing mode. An accessory shoe and flash sync connector provide for flash photography.

Using The Camera

As with a fully automatic point-and-shoot camera, be it a film or digital, the Olympus Trip 35 is easy and fun to use.

Olympus Trip 35, Film ASA and AUto Exposure setting

Aside from the need for a roll of film to be loaded into the camera, be sure to set the correct film speed (ASA) setting, by turning the ASA ring in front of the lens barrel so that the ASA speed is displayed in the small opening.

Set the aperture or F-stop ring to 'A' for Auto, and off you go.

For the zone-focusing part of the equation, give it a go at estimating the distance of your subject, or turn the focal ring graphic icons to match the subject of your composition, be a portrait or head-shoulder shot, a three-quarter height shot, a group shop or just a view of the land, sea or urbanscape.

Early Images

A friendly shop assistant showed off his antics.

Olympus Trip 35, Battery Not Required 01

Do remember to check the zone focus setting as you go on with your shooting assignment. On bright and clear days the 40mm f/2.8 lens can be very forgiving and will stay sharp most of the time, but when things get a little dark and the automatic aperture falls to below f/5.6 you will tend to get blurred images if the zone focusing distance is not just right.

Olympus Trip 35 Instructions: Click here to download from www.buktus.org

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4 comments:

She is nice in black, too, but I like the silver/black better ;-)

Others may not agree with you, but I do believe that the current film camera enthusiasts are more inclined toward the silver/blacks... thanks

Hey thanks for the article. You state that in Auto mode the shutter speed is set at 1/200 and with flash it's 1/40. In fact both shutter speeds are available in auto and it switches at a point around EV 12.5 from f11 1/40 to f5.6 1/200, depending on the available light. It'll shoot down to EV 8.5: 1/40 2.8 and almost up to EV 17: 1/200 f22 in auto mode. The available combinations are 1/40 f2.8-f11 and 1/200 f5.6-f22 and it looks to actually select third-stops across this range, or thereabouts. This can be seen by the needle trap mechanism - there is an armature to determine the shutter speed by how far the armature raises when the shutter is depressed; this engages at one of two different cutout heights with the meter needle (along with a corresponding stepped scale for aperture), depending how far the needle is deflected by the coil/selenium cell circuit. It's an ingeniously simple mechanism - and worth noting that even in the daylight, on a dull overcast day, your shutter speeds can easily be low enough to blur if you don't make an effort to steady the camera.

Thanks for the followup, great!

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Olympus Trip 35: The Light Fantastic!

I can’t remember why I actually gave up analogue photography for a few years. I think I got disillusioned with the declining quality of my prints after getting them developed cheaply at a poor quality high street developers. Digital came along and initially seemed impressive so I converted to the dark side, but after a while, I realised 2 things seemed to be missing from my photos – warmth and soul.

Then I chanced upon the joys of toy photography after buying my first Holga cameras and rediscovering the delight and excitement of those few days waiting for your photos back from the developer. Medium format photography was a lot of fun but only 12 shots on each 120 film can be prohibitive and expensive, so I decided to go to 35mm again with the Olympus Trip 35.

While I was deciding on which camera to get, I came across a Flickr site devoted to pictures taken on the Olympus Trip. I was amazed at how sharp and beautiful the photos were, so when I found a UK company selling reconditioned Trips at a very reasonable price, I knew I‘d found my new camera.

I’ll spare you the usual facts you always hear about the Trip… “selenium lens blah blah no batteries blah blah David Bailey TV adverts blah, blah, blah ". All I can say is when I received this baby and took it out of the box, it just felt SO good – wonderfully light to hold in the hand, great classic looks – and the soft sensual click of the shutter button was sexy beyond belief. I couldn’t wait to get snapping, and was so lucky not only to be living in London (one of the most photo-friendly cities in the world) but also to have plenty of the Lomographer’s best friend available to me – brilliant sunshine. So over one of the sunniest summers in years, I spent my days walking around town with my Trip.

The lightness of the camera makes you want to carry it everywhere and get as close to your subject as possible. Various colour and black and white films all gave me great results, but the real eye-opener for me was using cross-processed slide film for the first time. The sun made the colours gorgeously rich and saturated which along with the wonderfully sharp Zuiko lens helped capture that summer perfectly.

The simplicity of this camera is a joy. Its automatic exposure means you only have to worry about choosing the correct distance setting, which frees you to concentrate more on composition and subject (But you can also trick the camera into taking wonderful existing light night time shots by turning the aperture ring onto 2.8).

This simple approach helped me to take some of my best pictures ever. I entered my photo shown here of 2 lovers in Trafalgar Square in an online photography competition, and it won first prize! I am now getting paid work as an analogue photographer again, and it’s all thanks to wonderful cameras like The Olympus Trip 35. You owe it to yourself to get one.

This review was written by Lomographer droogieboy . For more analogue gear reviews from Lomographers, follow fellow analogue spirits by creating your own LomoHome .

written by droogieboy on 2011-05-24 #gear #review #olympus-trip-35 #lomography #film-photography #user-review

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19 Comments

won-der-ful gallery!

nice review, with great fotos...<:)

I juz bought my olympus trip 35 from ebay~ now I juz load first film for it , thanks for you reviews and your photos are nice~!!

eh) great street shots

I love pic no 2!

such a great gallery!

thank you for your kind words, people x

i love mine! that picture of the lady with the wine is my favorite. they're all wonderful :)

why thank you, clogged :)

very nice..i love my TRIP 35

oh for pete's sake...I know you from the trip 35 group on that "other" site....

haha. I guess it's a small world if you're a Tripster :)

I just started with my Trip 35 and I love your gallery ! wondering what slide film you usually use ? mine always turned out so dark after cross-processed....thank you :]

Hey jazzy0o0 ! Thanks for the kind comments. I'm trying to remember which slide film I used -I think it was possibly Fuji Velvia 400? Getting slide film cross-processed can be a bit of a lottery, but i guess the unpredictability adds to the fun. Happy snapping!

Hey, Nice photos :) I've just bought an Olympus Trip 35. I was wondering if I take photos with it at gigs/concerts and use 200 ASA film do you think 2.8 aperture will make decent photos? Or should I use a different aperture etc?

P.S Tips would be great! As i'm new to film cameras

Sorry to get to this late LYDS95 - but I would use a good quality 400 ASA b+w film like Fuji Neopan for gig shots rather than a 200 ASA film. That way you should be fine with the 2.8 aperture. :)

Lomography Community Recap: May 2024

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How to Shoot Night Photography with the Olympus Trip 35 by Tom Box

Learn to Shoot Film: Tips & Tutorials
January 25, 2019

Written by Tom Box

Night Photography on the Olympus Trip 35 by Tom Box on Shoot It With Film

I would imagine most, if not all, of the people reading this have heard of the Olympus Trip 35

Over 10,000,000 units of the camera were sold during it’s lifetime, and the solid build, simple operation, and wide availability have made the Trip a hugely popular option for the modern film crowd.

I’m not going to review the camera, as this has been done dozens of times across the internet, but instead explain how to use the Trip outside of its limits, specifically with low light and night photography.

Find the Olympus Trip 35 at KEH Camera or on eBay .

Hacking the Olympus Trip 35 to Work in Low Light

The Olympus Trip 35 uses a selenium light meter to adjust aperture and shutter speed automatically, locking the shutter release if there is insufficient light which would result in underexposure.

However, the Trip also has a flash sync mode, whereby the aperture is manually selected and the shutter is set to it’s slower speed of 1/40th of a second.

This is, of course, designed to be used with a flash, but the manual aperture settings coupled with modern high speed films means you can also use the flash setting to successfully shoot the Trip at night. Don’t let that little red flag stop you…

Load a roll of 400 or 800 speed film, set the ASA to 400 and the aperture to it’s widest setting of 2.8, and you’re ready to go. That’s all there is to it.

If the scene is too bright for the set aperture of 2.8, don’t worry, the Trip’s meter is still active in flash mode and will stop down the aperture to prevent overexposure.

Related: Five Tips for Shooting Film at Night

Working With the Shutter Speed and Aperture Limitations

Now, 1/40th at f/2.8 really doesn’t seem slow or wide enough to shoot at night, even with 800 speed film. But I’ve found that I get excellent results if there are enough bright lights in the scene.

I used to shoot SLRs at night on aperture priority, lens wide open to f/1.4, and, even pointing at a shop window, I’d be struggling to hand hold the camera’s chosen 1/15th or 1/8th shutter speed.

The thing is, most auto-exposure cameras will be metering for the whole scene, taking into account the vast expanse of black just as much as any light sources.

More often than not, auto-exposure for a scene like a shop window at night would result in a blown out light source and mucky shadows, and not look at all how you remember seeing the scene with your own eyes.

Have you ever tried to take a photo of a sunset with your phone camera and it’s blown out the colors and tried to expose for the foreground? Every time.

What to Expect While Shooting the Olympus Trip 35 at Night

I won’t lie and tell you that using the Olympus Trip ( find on eBay ) at night will always produce perfect results. (It works best in an urban area with lots of artificial light.) But I do believe that shooting film at night can be as simple as setting the exposure once and getting on with taking photos.

An underexposed photo is better than a 2 second long exposure of motion blur!

Any grainy shadows can be clipped in using Photoshop or another image editing program to bring true black back into the shot and increase contrast.

That and slightly boosting the mid tones is pretty much the only editing I need to do to my Night Trip photos.

Related: Olympus Stylus Epic Point & Shoot Film Camera Review

The Olympus Trip 35 is a quintessential point-and-shoot camera, and that doesn’t have to stop when the sun goes down.

Try it yourself with some 400 or 800 speed film and see if you agree that night photography doesn’t always require tripods and fast lenses…

All of the photos in this post were taken on a trip to Japan, using Fuji Superia Premium 400 speed film and my Trip 35 set up as I’ve described. Developed and scanned at home.

I also double exposed a roll of CineStill 800T in the Trip. Photos below.

On a tangent…

It’s always worth checking over a ‘dead’ Olympus Trip 35 because it’s quite likely the meter is fine, and the problem is with gummed up aperture blades or other internal gubbins.

On two occasions, I’ve acquired a Trip which refuses to raise the red flag, suggesting the meter is dead, only to remove the top plate (held on by 3 easily accessible screws) and see that the meter needle is moving fine.

The problem both times lay in the sliding plates that determine aperture and shutter speed. A quick clean with naptha and it was working perfectly.

I’ve had a similar experience with an Olympus Pen EES-2 (basically the half frame Trip 35) which merely had sticky aperture blades. Half an hour of disassembly and cleaning and it’s working beautifully.

Thank you so much, Tom! Tom is a regular contributor here at Shoot It With Film, and you can check out his other articles here , like an intro to pinhole film photography and how to use prisms for creative effect . You can also check out Tom’s work on his website and Instagram .

Leave your questions about shooting the Olympus Trip 35 at night below in the comments, and you can pick one up for yourself at KEH Camera or on eBay !

Shoot It With Film Magazine Issue 01 Promo Image

Night photography on film - Tips for Shooting Film at Night by Sara Johansen on Shoot It With Film

Blog Comments

Noor Hashem

January 1, 2020 at 7:38 pm

Can i use a 200 speed film or does it have to be 400 or 800?

July 27, 2020 at 5:54 am

Hi Tom, Can you use the Fuji Superia Premium 400 speed film also during the day or you would recommend it only for night shots?

Many thanks! Px

shootitwithfilm

July 27, 2020 at 2:48 pm

Thanks for your comment, Pilar! Fuji Superia 400 is a great film to use during the day. You can check out this post for examples of what it looks like during the day: https://shootitwithfilm.com/how-to-shoot-fujifilm-superia-400/

January 22, 2021 at 8:21 am

How did you do the double exposure on the Cinestill 800T’s pics ?

January 25, 2021 at 2:22 pm

The double exposures were totally random, done by shooting a full roll, rewinding it almost to the end and then shooting over it again. – Tom

April 12, 2022 at 7:59 pm

Hi, I´m planning to use a Fuji 500T for night concert shots in my Olympus trip. Do I have to detail this to the photography laboratory? Any recomendation?

April 12, 2022 at 11:14 pm

Hi Morena! If you want it developed and scanned normally, you don’t need to let the lab know any special information. You’ll only want to let the lab know if you want the film pushed in development or if you want the film scanned a specific way (such as having it scanned for highlights to bring out the nighttime atmosphere of the images). And while you don’t have to let the lab know any special info, if you feel like it was a tricky shooting situation, you can always reach out to the lab and ask their advice for developing and scanning.

September 10, 2022 at 4:07 pm

I just purchased this camera and the red shutter flag appears over my view finder whenever it is set to automatic. I have not yet tested with film yet but my run through seems to work okay when the apture is set to any other setting (2.8-end). What does this mean? That my internal light source is dead? And if so what does this mean when shooting? Shall I just set it to sunny 16 (as a rule of thumb) but how will this look in low light?

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Tested and reconditioned / 3-month warranty. Olympus Trip 35 35mm Film Cameras. We have a collection of 35mm point and shoot and custom cameras available, a perfect option for beginners

Olympus Trip 35 Vintage 35mmFilm Camera with Zuiko 40mm f2.8 Lens Reconditioned with New Leather Skin

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Olympus Trip 35 Navy Point and Shoot 35mm Film Camera

About this item.

Lens: 40mm f/2.8 Olympus D. Zuiko (4 elements, three groups).
Focus: Manual by scale, visible through the viewfinder. Top scale, visible through the finder, shows icons or headshot (1m/3'), two-shot (1.5m/5'), group shot (3m/10') and infinity. The bottom scale is calibrated in meters and feet.
Exposure: Program automatic (A) and fixed-aperture for flash. Note: if you chose a large aperture for flash and work in bright light, it stops down accordingly but keeps the shutter speed at 1/40.
Low light warning: If exposure would go below 1/40 at f/2.8, the shutter locks and a red transparent flag rises from the bottom of the finder in A setting. (If this happens, use flash).
Battery: None needed

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This item is vintage and used. May show signs of previous use. No Box or Instructions Included

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Product description.

This vintage film camera is in excellent condition, fully serviced with brand new light seals and is ready to produce another lifetime of fantastic photos. Olympus introduced the Trip 35 in 1967 and discontinued, after a lengthy production run, in 1984. The Trip name is a reference to its intended market people who wanted a compact, functional camera for holidays.

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11 Best Point and Shoot Film Cameras, According to Pro Photographers

From the most popular and sought after to the true underrated (and cheap) workhorses, we present the best 35mm film cameras still available today

James Barkman

Photo by Field Mag

Field Mag may receive a minor commission from purchases made via affiliate links.

Over the last decade or so there’s been an ever growing interest in film photography. It’s incredible—even Polaroid is back ! If you don’t or haven’t shot film, chances are you know someone who does (and they probably won’t shut up about it). Tired of hearing your nerdy photographer friend blab about the wonders of point and shoot film cameras ? Say no more, the answers are here! (Well, some of them anyway.)

As a professional photographer myself, I know a thing or two about what scenarios and conditions call for what type of camera. Previously, I laid out the best film cameras of all time . Then we did the best medium format film cameras . In this article I dig into the most portable, accessible film camera type: point and shoot film cameras.

Read on below for a full breakdown of the 10 best 35mm point and shoot cameras for photographers of all abilities, with technical details and practical insights earned the hard way through first hand experience.

( Editor's Note: Learn the differences between Kodak Portra, Fujifilm Superia, Cinestill 400D & more in our 35mm film guide . )

Field Mag's Top Picks for the Best Point & Shoot Film Cameras

Long weekend 35mm camera, minolta tc-1, leica mini ii, konica big mini f, olympus stylus mju ii, nikon l35af, canon sure shot wp-1.

It’s no secret that we here at Field Mag are film photography enthusiasts, for better or worse. I’ve been known to haul clunky and impractical camera gear to the top of a mountain just to take an often blurry and/or light leaked photo. Why? Film photography is expensive, risky, and time consuming—not to mention literally going extinct. In short, because it’s fun!

In long, it’s complicated. And the appeal is different for everyone. Nostalgia plays a part. But it’s the timeless, authentic aesthetic of film that draws most in. The imperfections in an analog image are strangely appealing—the way different film stocks capture light and shadow, creating uniquely rich and deep colors that a digital camera’s sensor or VSCO preset can only try to replicate.

For me, it’s also the inherent risk that makes film photography more rewarding. This goes for climbing mountains as well as it does for shooting film. And it's not cheap—perhaps there’s something special about an image that’s literally worth something. Film encourages a little more thought and time put into each frame.

Film photography isn’t for everyone and certainly not the most practical medium in which to do so, but for many it helps them be more intentional about seeking and capturing life’s fleeting moments, and that’s priceless.

As for how to do said documenting, I personally love point and shoot cameras— always accessible and ready for action. And I’m not the only one. I’ve owned a wide variety of 35mm point and shoot film cameras throughout my life and career as an adventure photographer. The following are 10 of my favorites— dubbed the 10 best point and shoot film cameras.

Admittedly, this article barely scratches the surface of the world of 35mm point and shoot cameras. Every film camera deserves a several-page article to truly break down its form and function. But hopefully the following gives a good enough glimpse into a few of the beloved models that have and stood the test of time.

11 Best Point & Shoot Film Cameras for Beginner, Intermediate, and Professional Photographers

Read on for our top picks for the best point & shoot cameras for 35mm film photography.

Skill Level: Beginner Year of Release: 2023 Pros: Cheap, reliable, no experience required Cons: Cheap, not very durable, plastic lens

We’re starting our list with a bit of a curveball—this new 35mm film camera from Long Weekend (founded by film photog Willem Verbeeck) lands atop our list because it’s cheap, fully automatic, and brand-new, so you don’t have worry about it unexpectedly breaking down after one roll like you may with some of the older vintage cameras on this list. The lightweight 35mm rangefinder camera features a 31mm fixed focus lens, manual wind and rewind features, and a built-in flash with ~10 second recharge time—all powered by just a single AAA battery (again, unlike the rest of the cameras featured below which largely require a more hard-to-find CR123 battery). It's like a disposable camera, except reusable :)

Lens: 31mm F9 optical grade acrylic lens Aperture: f/9 Shutter: 1/120 seconds Price: $49 Shop Now at Moment

Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate Year of Release: 1990 Pros: Durable, dependable, beautiful, Zeiss lens Cons: Very expensive, trendy, people will ask you about it

If you are at all interested in 35mm film photography, you’re surely aware of the Contax T2. Many consider it the best 35mm point and shoot camera ever made. Others a beautiful fashion accessory—yes Kendall Jenner has a Contax T2. And yes Tom Holland & Zendaya use a Contax T2. But what makes this camera so popular is of course, the glass. The retracting 38mm f/2.8 Carl Zeiss lens holds up to the hype and the sturdy body seemingly forged from a solid block of titanium makes it durable enough for everyday carry in a range of environments.

One of the reasons for its enormous popularity is its automated functions (Autofocus and Program AE) while still offering the ability to manually adjust settings such as the focus and aperture if you so desire. Essentially the Contax T2 is ideal for those who want the functionality of a bigger camera, but in point and shoot form. (Step to the Contax G2 if you’re looking for even more functionality in an equally beautiful camera.)

Whether you love the Contax T2 or think it’s overrated, there’s no doubt that it performs phenomenally, looks beautiful, and is fairly reliable and durable. Making this a tasty, but hard pill to swallow for those not flush with disposable income.

Example Photos

Lens: Carl Zeiss T* Sonnar 38mm Aperture: f/2.8 to f/16 Shutter: 8 seconds to 1/500th Average Price on eBay (2024): $1100 Shop Now on eBay

Skill Level: Intermediate to advanced Year of Release: 2001 Pros: Very small, lightweight, many manual options, sharp lens Cons: LCD screen often dies, aperture dial slips

Ricoh is no stranger to the camera game, and they make one hell of a point and shoot film camera. The Ricoh GR1v offers a few options that cater to the more advanced photographer such as manual ISO setting (in addition to DX coding 25-5000), Aperture Priority Auto Exposure mode, and different focus options to choose from: single or multi-point autofocus, manual preset distances (1m, 2m, 3m, and 5m), and infinity. Also, the GR1v retains your settings when turning on and off, which is a nice bonus.

The 28mm lens is multicoated with aspherical elements, and is incredibly and unbelievably sharp, and the magnesium-alloy body is sleek and aesthetically flawless.

One thing I found unique to the GR1v is how the camera preloads a roll immediately upon loading a film cassette and counts down the number of images you have left to shoot. In the event of the camera back door accidentally opening (we’re all guilty of it), the exposed images will be preserved as they’re already wound into the film roll.

Earlier iterations of this camera are the Ricoh GR1 and Ricoh GR1s, with the GR1v being the last and final model of Ricoh’s 35mm point and shoot models. Although a bit pricey, the Ricoh GR1v is a classic and an extremely capable camera.

Lens: Ricoh GR 28mm Aperture: f/3.5 Shutter: 2 seconds to 1/500th Average Price on eBay (2024): $800 Shop Now on eBay

Skill Level: Beginner Year of Release: 1990 Pros: Zeiss lens, very simple design, some are "weatherproof" Cons: Expensive, trendy, motor might randomly die

The cult-favorite Yashica T4 has grown to enormous popularity as of recent years, and for obvious reasons. Possessing nearly everything you could ask or need in a P&S, the Yashica T4 (also known as the Kyocera Slim T and Super T4 at times) has just three different buttons for flash, timer, and shutter which will leave you worrying less about your settings and more about the moments you want to capture. Perfect for outdoor action and adventure photography. The highly coveted Yashica T4 Super D even boasts a “weatherproof” design.

Introduced in 1990 as a “premium compact” camera, the Yashica T4 is often seen as a more simple, less luxurious alternative to the Contax T2. It features a similar Zeiss lens capable of focusing up to 30cm and is housed in a rather dull plastic body (instead of titanium), making it less conspicuous and much lighter, yet still highly effective. Though also like the T2, the T4 has become a mainstream “accessory” and is no longer the easy Goodwill bargain bin find it once was. It’s also worth noting many T4s are beginning to reach the end of their lifespan—it’s not uncommon for a T4 to work well one day and simply die the next. So be warned!

Despite being closely related to the Yashica T3 and Yashica T5, the T4 has risen in popularity alone. The no-nonsense features of the T4 make it a great camera for both the beginner and expert alike who want to simply point and shoot and not be bogged down by finicky buttons and knobs.

Lens: 35mm Carl Zeiss Tessar T* (multicoated) Aperture: f/3.5 Shutter: 1 second to 1/700th Average Price on eBay (2024): $750 Shop Now at KEH Camera

Analogue-Amsterdam-Minolta-TC-1-Fieldmag

Skill Level: Advanced Year of Release: 1996 Pros: Durable titanium body, manual modes, small, cool design Cons: Increasingly expensive, best for advanced photogs

Another titanium, sturdy feeling camera, many would liken the TC-1 as a close cousin of the Contax T2. The viewfinder is crispy and full of useful information that makes this rig feel closer to a “real camera” than a point and shoot at times. Notorious for its crisp and contrasty images, once again this lens is a product of brilliant Japanese technology (bless them).

The size of the TC-1 is remarkably small and there is little to hate about it, although the manual aperture settings make this a little more hands-on and less “point and shooty”. However, the combo of manual aperture and options to set a fixed manual focus make this rig quite popular with street photogs who tend to “point and shoot” in the truest sense.

Auto DX coding with a manual override option allows you to shoot film speeds higher than 3200 and exposure compensation up to +4 stops.

One thing to note is that there is no mode for auto exposure, but rather an aperture priority mode in which the exposure is manually set by the aperture, making this less of a point and shoot and more of a “real” camera in compact form.

Lens: Minolta G-Rokkor 28mm Aperture: f/3.5 Shutter: 4 seconds to 1/750th Average Price on eBay (2024): $925 Shop Now on ebay

Leica-Mini-2-point-and-shoot-camera-35mm

Skill Level: Intermediate Year of Release: 1991 Pros: Zeis lens, fast autofocus, affordable for a Leica Cons: No lens cover means easy scratches, cheap plastic body

Much like the Yashica T4, the Leica Mini II’s plastic body helps it to appear as more of a budget option and therefore slide under the radar (an almost impossible feat for anything bearing the iconic Leica red dot). Not gonna lie, the Mini II feels cheap and if it wasn’t made by Leica few might ever know the power this camera holds. I really love how responsive the autofocus is when you push the shutter button halfway, and unlike other point-and-shoot models, you aren’t in danger of shooting a premature photo when you’re simply trying to grab focus. Although the Leica II has a built-in UV filter, it doesn’t have a retractable lens cover so don’t scratch it!

What the Mini II brings to the table is its Leica lens, of course. Not as sharp as some of the Zeiss glass you find in other point and shoots, but sharp enough to take satisfying snapshots. You can even take a 5 second long exposure!

The Leica Mini II is a successor to the Leica Mini, a predecessor to the Leica Mini III, and the fixed lens cousin to the Leica Minilux. Unlike the Mini I, the Mini II has the ability to prefocus, while the Mini III has a wider lens and lower aperture, but seems to be challenging to find. And the Minilux features an F/2.8 lens and titanium body.

Lens: 35mm Aperture: f/3.5 Average Price on eBay (2024): $400 Shop Now on Ebay

Skill Level: Intermediate to Advanced Year of Release: 1993 Pros: Titanium body, many manual functions, analog display Cons: Increasing price, limited shutter speed (details below)

When released in 1993, the 35Ti was marketed as having the power of SLR cameras in point and shoot form. And they weren't kidding. Nikon knocked it out of the park with this one. The lens is unbelievably sharp and the coating helps with flares when shooting into the sun. This well-designed titanium camera offers data imprinting (time/date stamp), exposure compensation, and the ability to manual focus. And there is a panorama option, which you don’t see in a P&S too often.

A nice touch is the shutter speed, exposure comp, and flash indicator that are displayed inside the viewfinder. Autofocus is notoriously fast, and the three shooting modes—A for Aperture Priority, P for Program mode, and T for long exposures aka “bulb” mode, are simple and straightforward.

A complaint that some people have is how the shutter tops out at 1/250th when in A (aperture priority) mode, which is admittedly pretty annoying.

Unique to the 35Ti is the analog display on the top of the camera body that reads aperture, exposure compensation, and exposure number. Most of the leading compact cameras come with LCD displays, but Nikon intentionally designed the 35Ti to have more of an analog feel (this also means less one less LCD screen to fail, as is common with cameras of this age). The sibling of the 35Ti is the Nikon 28Ti, which is essentially the same camera but with a 28mm lens. The 28Ti has evolved into more of a collector item, so expect higher prices.

Lens: Nikkor 35mm Aperture: f/2.8 Shutter: 1 minute to 1/500th Average Price on eBay (2024): $650 Shop Now

Skill Level: Beginner Year of Release: 1990 Pros: Minimalist, f/2.8 lens, great low light focusing Cons: Minimalist, partially plastic body, unprotected lens

Konica made an effort to design the Big Mini for one hand (right hand) shooting. On the spectrum of point and shoot to compact camera, the big mini definitely falls on the point and shoot side of things, which is not necessarily a bad thing. It’s no bells and whistles construction and minimal design is a little less intimidating than other point and shoots.

The lens opens up to an impressive f/2.8, and is known to produce contrasty and sharp images. Thanks to the infrared autofocus, the low light focusing capabilities are known to have a leg up on other point and shoots. The front shell is made out of aluminum, and the rest of the body is plastic. The viewfinder is simple with no displays outside of the frame lines, and the lens can focus to an impressive 35cm.

Hopefully you don’t chew your nails as many complain about the shallow buttons that might require a fingernail to operate. And the lens is not protected when closed, so smudging and scratching pose a threat. Also, it doesn’t come equipped with a lens coating so flaring can be a bit of a bummer (or a perk if you ask Instagram).

There are a few other Big Mini predecessors, with the initial design originally released in 1990, but the Big Mini F is last (and undoubtedly best) in the lineup of its relatives. Perfect for beginner photographers and loved by pros, the Konica Big Mini is a slightly more simple P&S with a powerful lens that tends to avoid the spotlight.

Lens: 35mm Aperture: f/2.8 Shutter: 4 seconds to 1/4500th Average Price on eBay (2024): $200 Shop Now

Film-Supply-Olympus-Stylus-MJU-ii-Fieldmag

Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate Year of Release: 1997 Pros: Cheap, 90s aesthetic, can be operated one handed Cons: Plastic body, prone to dying without warning

The Olympus Stylus MJU II puts the “compact” in compact film camera. Slip it in your pocket and go anywhere. Undoubtedly one of the most minimal point and shoots out there and arguably the best point and shoot camera for beginners, the MJU II (aka the Olympus Stylus Epic) is small, easy-to-use, and makes great images. It’s easy to see why it has such a dedicated following. Desirable features include but are not limited to: DX coding up to 3200 ISO, an impressively sharp lens that is protected by a slider door, a very capable built-in flash (with red eye reduction), and the camera is weatherproof. (But not waterproof!)

The camera is powered on and off by opening or closing the slider door, which is an oddly satisfying experience. Three buttons make operations simple; a shutter button, a button for flash modes, and a self timer button. It’s definitely capable of being taken out of a pocket, opened, operated, and returned to said pocket with one hand. I.e. it’s well approved for run-and-gun adventure shooting.

The Olympus MJU II model is a successor to earlier models such as the XA and the Stylus / MJU, also fantastic point and shoot cameras, but the MJU II easily takes the cake as the superior camera.

Cons? The viewfinder is about as small as they come, and the flash is set to auto every time the camera is switched on and off (it’s known to be a little trigger happy in auto mode). So if you don’t want flash, you have to dig your little finger nail into the button like 3x to switch to no-flash mode every single time you turn it on. (Can you tell this writer has experience with this annoying feature?)

As with all point and shoots, they aren’t getting any younger and the MJU II electronics are known to fail unpredictably. The same goes for the rest of the expansive Olympus Stylus family. (Speaking of, a few Olympus honorable mentions include the MJU I, Olympus XA2, & Olympus Pen half frame camera.)

Lens: Olympus 35mm Aperture: f/2.8 Average Price on eBay (2024): $150 Shop on Ebay

Skill Level: Beginner Year of Release: 1983 Pros: Easy to use, inexpensive, takes AA batteries Cons: On the bigger side, limited functionality

Overwhelmed at the prices for 35mm point and shoot cameras? Let’s talk about the Nikon L35AF. If you’ve never shot film before and want to test the waters, this is a fantastic option. The L35AF seems to have been released as a direct response to the Canon AF35M, during the era in which every camera company was competing against the other. Now 40 years later the consensus is the L35F is still an affordable camera that makes surprisingly impressive photos. There’s a lot to love and very little to hate.

Functionally, the L35AF covers the essentials. It has reliable Auto Focus, a pop up flash, a 10 second self timer, and a +2 Exposure Compensation lever (use this when your subject is backlit). It runs on two AA batteries, meaning you won’t have to hunt down semi-obscure speciality batteries like CR123.

Its size does render the Nikon L35AF more of a jacket pocket P&S size and less of a pants pocket camera. But in true “point and shoot” fashion, the user really only needs to compose the image and camera does the rest.

An unexpected but nice feature is the ability to add filters. The metering system sees through the filters and will adjust accordingly. So despite being an incredibly simple camera, the L35AF offers the option for more experienced film photogs to dabble with screw on colored filters for B&W film.

Lens: 35mm Aperture: f/2.8 Average Price Online on eBay (2024): $200 Shop Now on Ebay

Vintage-Camera-Lab-Canon-Sure-Shot-WP-1-Fieldmag

Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate Year of Release: 1994 Pros: Waterproof, super simple, panorama mode, inexpensive Cons: Limited functionality, automatic flash

First of all, to clear up any confusion with the name. The Sure Shot WP-1 is also known as the A-1, Prima AS-1, or my personal favorite: the Autoboy D5. Confusing, I know.

When it comes to waterproof 35mm cameras, beyond the legendary Nikonos V there isn’t much in the lineup to choose from, especially in point and shoot form. At the time of its release, the WP-1 was designed to compete with other underwater 35mm cameras like the Minolta Weathermatic.

The WP-1 is simple—really simple, and doesn’t have features such as exposure compensation, ISO settings, etc. There are essentially four different shooting modes on the dial; auto, macro, forced flash, and flash off modes.

The flash is automatic but can be turned off, there’s a date and time LCD display, and there’s a loophole to attach a lanyard or strap to. There is an option to shoot panoramas as well!

Although it is waterproof (up to 5m) it works as any point and shoot would above the water line! And it's a fun one at that. Just don’t expect this to produce the same visual results as some of the other point and shoots.

Lens: 32mm Aperture: f/3.5 Shutter: 1/60th to 1/250th Average Price on eBay (2024): $150 Shop Now on Ebay

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a point and shoot film camera.

A point-and-shoot film camera is a compact and simple-to-use camera designed for casual photographers. Some point and shoots do feature expert level functionality, premium materials, and even legendary glass, but in general, a typical point and shoot film camera has automatic settings for exposure and focus, designed to allow users to point the camera at a subject and take photos in an instant without needing to adjust many settings manually.

What is the difference between a point and shoot camera and an SLR camera?

The main differences between point and shoot cameras and SLRs are size and portability and lens and viewfinder system. SLR cameras (Single-Lens Reflex) feature an internal mirror that reflects the image the lens “sees” into the viewfinder for the user. Meaning, when you look into the viewfinder of an SLR (or DSLR) camera, you’re actually seeing through the lens.

On the other hand, point and shoot cameras are rangefinders, meaning they do not have an internal mirror but instead a mechanical series of compact lenses and mirrors that approximates what the lens is seeing. Because of this, rangefinders are smaller, quieter, and more compact, but the user doesn't see the same depth of field perception as with an SLR, and accurate framing can be more difficult too.

What is the most expensive point and shoot camera?

The Contax T2 is widely considered the most expensive point and shoot camera. Once found on thrift shop shelves, it’s not uncommon to see a decent condition Contax T2 sell for well north of $1,000. Limited edition T2s can sell for double that. See the T2 above in our list for the full rundown on this iconic camera.

For more things film, check out our guide to the best film cameras for photographers of all skill levels .

Published 12-22-2021

Updated 01-10-2024

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Olympus Trip 35
The Olympus Trip 35 is a camera I'd heard a lot about but had never tried myself. Its reputation for ease of use and high quality seemed the perfect cure for my shooter's block. And if the Trip 35 was the prescription, the Pasadena Camera Show was the pharmacy. There I found a beautiful Trip 35 for an absurdly low price, bought it, and ...
A cult classic point and shoot
With the camera set to 'A', based on the light hitting the meter it will choose the most appropriate aperture between f2.8 and f22. It will also choose either 1/40th or 1/200th for the shutter speed. If the amount of light isn't adequate for at very least 1/40th and f2.8 it will simply prevent the photo from being taken.
The Olympus Trip 35
August 28, 2022. The Olympus Trip 35 is a compact, battery-free point-and-shoot 35mm film camera known for its ease of use and quality. When it was released in 1968, it was marketed as the perfect film camera to take on your travels. NOTE: Travel is not recommended at this time.
Olympus Trip 35
Film format: 35mm: Film size: 36 mm x 24 mm: General; Dimensions: 124×72×57 mm (4.9×2.8×2.2 in) Weight: 390 g (390 g) Made in: Japan: The Olympus Trip 35 is a 35mm compact camera, manufactured by Olympus. It was introduced in 1967 and discontinued, after a lengthy production run, in 1984. ... The Trip 35 was a point and shoot model with a ...
Olympus Trip 35
Step back in time and join the legacy of film photography with the Olympus Trip 35, a true icon born in 1967. This vintage gem is not just a camera; it's a portal to the golden era of point-and-shoot photography and an invitation to embark on a timeless journey. Imagine holding a piece of history in your hands. The Olympus Trip 35, designed to effortlessly slip into purses and bags, remains an ...
Olympus Trip 35
In today's episode, Jules, Paul and I review the Olympus Trip 35 - a beautiful, compact 35mm viewfinder camera with built-in selenium light meter, an excelle...
Olympus TRIP 35
Olympus TRIP 35 Type Compact 35mm film camera Released May 1968. The Olympus TRIP 35 is a full-sized compact EE camera based on the Pen EES. It first went on sale in 1968. The name reflects its suitability as a convenient camera to take on trips. The TRIP 35 became very popular as a camera that combined ease of use, reliability and a low price ...
The Olympus Trip 35 Review: Everything You Need To Know
The Olympus Trip 35 is so popular because it's very easy to use, it has a great lens and it's ideal for the novice photographer. Also, the Olympus Trip 35 is one of the only 35mm cameras powered by the sun, making it really handy to take on holiday with you. Since 1967 10 million units have been sold, which is a tremendous amount even today.
Olympus Trip 35 35mm Zone-Focus Film Camera
The Olympus Trip 35, a fully automatic viewfinder camera, is a point-and-shoot 35mm compact model manufactured by Olympus. It was introduced to the market in 1967 as a compact, functional camera for holidays, went on to become very popular among the masses, and sales ended in 1984 after a prolonged production run, with over ten million units sold.
Olympus Trip 35: The Light Fantastic! · Lomography
The sun made the colours gorgeously rich and saturated which along with the wonderfully sharp Zuiko lens helped capture that summer perfectly. The simplicity of this camera is a joy. Its automatic exposure means you only have to worry about choosing the correct distance setting, which frees you to concentrate more on composition and subject ...
The Olympus Trip 35: Your first step into film photography
Today, I'll be reviewing the Olympus Trip 35. Its sharp lens, automatic settings, and small portable design makes this camera ideal for anyone looking to get...
Olympus Trip 35 Red Leather Point and Shoot 35mm Film Camera
Product Description. This vintage film camera is in excellent condition, fully serviced with brand new light seals and is ready to produce another lifetime of fantastic photos. Olympus introduced the Trip 35 in 1967 and discontinued, it after a lengthy production run, in 1984.
How to Shoot Night Photography with the Olympus Trip 35
Load a roll of 400 or 800 speed film, set the ASA to 400 and the aperture to it's widest setting of 2.8, and you're ready to go. That's all there is to it. If the scene is too bright for the set aperture of 2.8, don't worry, the Trip's meter is still active in flash mode and will stop down the aperture to prevent overexposure.
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Olympus Trip 35 Brown Point and Shoot 35mm Film Camera
1 Shot Point and Shoot 35mm Film Camera Reusable One Shot Half Frame Camera, Built in Flash, Bundled with One Roll ASA/ISO 400 Black & White Film 18 Exp, Battery is Not Included (Brown Color) Kodak M35 35mm Film Camera, Reusable, Focus Free, Easy to Use, Build in Flash and Compatible with 35mm Color Negative or B/W Film (Film and AAA Battery ...
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11 Best Point and Shoot Film Cameras
An in-depth breakdown of the 10 best point-and-shoot film cameras on the market for any beginner, intermediate, or advanced photographer. ... a few Olympus honorable mentions include the MJU I, Olympus XA2, & Olympus Pen half frame camera.) Example Photos. Lens: Olympus 35mm Aperture: f/2.8 Average Price on eBay (2024): $150 Shop on Ebay. Nikon ...
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Olympus Trip AF 50 35mm Point & Shoot Vintage Film Camera
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Elektrostal Geography. Geographic Information regarding City of Elektrostal. Elektrostal Geographical coordinates. Latitude: 55.8, Longitude: 38.45. 55° 48′ 0″ North, 38° 27′ 0″ East. Elektrostal Area. 4,951 hectares. 49.51 km² (19.12 sq mi) Elektrostal Altitude.
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