gdmbr vs tour divide

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Touring the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route vs. Racing the Tour Divide

Riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) or racing the Tour Divide is a rite of passage for many bikepackers; it’s seen as the “Big One” in North America. Stretching 2,745 miles from Banff, Alberta to Antelope Wells, New Mexico, it loosely follows the Continental Divide through the Rocky Mountains on a series of dirt and paved roads. The fastest men can complete the route in under 14 days, while most people who tour it take six to ten weeks. 

In 2018, I had the opportunity to tour the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) with my husband Andrew Strempke. While we initially were attracted to racing, the rules of the event require solo, self-supported travel, and we wanted to ride together. And so we did, completing the route in 25 days. Four years later, in 2022, we both lined up to race the Tour Divide with the intention of completing the route within the constraints provided by the event. While we weren’t going to go out of our way to avoid seeing each other out on the route, the reality was that unless something went very wrong for Andrew, the chances of us riding near each other was fairly minimal. 

Touring versus racing the route yielded two vastly different experiences. Racing tends to be more glorified by other people, but touring was just as satisfying, and in 2018, I believe it was the better choice for me at the time. There are benefits and drawbacks to each style of trip, and I feel lucky to have been able to experience both.

Rules, What Rules?

While the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route is open for anyone to ride under any style, signing up for Tour Divide means that you’re agreeing to pedal your bike from Banff to Antelope Wells in a self-supported solo fashion following the route mile for mile. On the other hand, touring provides the freedom to accept assistance from anyone, to share gear with as many people as you want, ride as fast or slow as you desire, and to detour around impassable roads or sections of the route that you’d rather not ride. 

Touring: There are no rules! Choose your own adventure! The biggest determining factor that caused Andrew and I to choose touring over racing in 2018 was the Tour Divide’s rules about riding solo and self supported. Completing the route together was more important to use than officially completing Tour Divide. Andrew and I rode side by side the whole time, supported each other during low points, and kept each other entertained. We split gear to lighten our loads and deviated from the route a couple of times when following the route would have meant pushing through hours of mud, something we preferred to avoid whenever possible. We did want to complete our tour under our own power, so we didn’t ever get into a vehicle with the exception of a short road section that was under construction. The workers required us to take the pilot car until the end of the one-lane section of road. There was no one to question whether taking that ride in the pilot car invalidated our ride. 

Racing: When I signed up for the Tour Divide, I agreed to abide by the rules of the race. There aren’t many, but the gist is that you agree to follow the entirety of the route in a solo self-supported fashion. With so much rain this year, making a turn onto a road I knew would be a sloppy mess when there was a perfectly good paved road that parallels the route was a bummer at times. That being said, knowing I was following the same route as all the racers, facing and overcoming similar challenges, and finding ways to make it through challenging conditions was rewarding in the end.

Riding self-supported also means carrying your own gear. When my dynamo light broke and I knew I’d have to spend more time charging electronics in towns, another racer offered me his extra battery pack and a light. While racer-to-racer support is typically tolerated, this definitely felt like a gray area and seemed a lot like sharing gear, so I chose to decline the offer, even though it would have saved me time.

Following the rules challenged me to solve my own problems and be mentally flexible when unexpected issues arose, which helped me to grow in my confidence as a bikepacker and solo woman traveler.

Counting Grams, Optimizing for Safety

The main difference in my gear between racing and touring was due to the fact that I couldn’t split the load with anyone during the race. Since I was going solo, it was important to maintain all of my own gear. I also had to be confident in using everything I carried. I wouldn’t have Andrew’s light or utensil or jacket if something happened to mine.   

Touring: As we prepared for our tour, we decided we wanted to go light. We went with a minimal setup with no stove, no extra camp clothes, and one set of riding clothes. We split tools, a first-aid kit, and a two-person tent. Since we were on a 30-day timeline for our trip, including travel to and from the start, we had to cover ground quickly, and minimizing the weight on our bikes made a significant difference in the speed we could travel. The fact that we were able to share gear meant my load was actually lighter on the tour than it was racing. 

Racing: When choosing gear for a race effort, it’s always a balance of being as light as possible while still being as safe as possible. I made some gear changes based on what I learned from the tour and my additional bikepacking experience. On the 2018 tour, I brought a 30-degree quilt and a foam pad and found myself too cold a few nights. For the race, I upgraded to a 25-degree sleeping bag and an insulated air pad. This setup actually ended up being too warm for most of the race and I woke up several nights in a puddle of sweat and drool, but it gave me confidence that I would be warm despite the wet and cold weather. I also brought more substantial rain gear after getting rained on during our tour in 2018 and finding that ultralight rain gear just doesn’t keep me warm or dry enough. I also chose to use a synthetic puffy rather than a down puffy. Synthetic insulation stays warm when it’s wet and down does not, but it also doesn’t compress nearly as effectively. I anticipated being soggy from rain or sweat for at least part of the ride, so the trade-off was worth it. I made sure all my tools worked and that I knew how to use them to fix common mechanicals. 

Optimized for Speed…or Enjoyment

When people hear “touring,” they tend to automatically think you’re going slow and bringing the kitchen sink. That wasn’t the style of tour we were interested in, though plenty of people do that too. During our tour, we rode fast, but took it slow in towns to eat lots of food and get plenty of rest. In the end, my race pace was several days faster, not necessarily because I actually rode faster, but mostly because I just rode longer and stopped for as little time as possible, rushing through resupplies and meals. 

Touring: Andrew and I completed our tour in 25 days, which is a pretty quick pace for a non-race effort. It felt good to challenge my body to go hard and cover ground quickly. I loved riding my bike all day and anyhow, we were on a timeline. Despite having a deadline to be back, not having the pressure of racing allowed us to slow down without guilt. One of our favorite stops during the trip was the Llama Ranch in Montana. We arrived in the afternoon and spent the rest of the day visiting with the owners Barbara and John rather than pushing on until dark. Later in the route, we stopped at Brush Mountain Lodge for several hours in the middle of the day where we ate pizza and drank beer, sitting and chatting for a few hours before continuing along the route. Being able to stop and spend time with Kirsten, who runs Brush Mountain Lodge was special, and she has become one of our best friends since then. Even though our tour took longer than the race for me, it was certainly not easy. No matter the pace, the Divide route will kick your ass some days. 

Racing: My finish time during the race was 19 days and 16 hours. I probably didn’t actually ride much faster, but I rode longer each day and minimized stop time to complete the route in less time. Optimizing stop time and systems is one of my favorite parts of racing. It feels like free speed when you can get in and out of town or set up and tear down camp efficiently. I’ve tried to figure out exactly why I like bikepack racing and I honestly don’t have a great answer. I love challenging my body and the camaraderie of the other racers. I like making decisions under pressure and being forced to rely on myself to solve problems. Crossing a finish line knowing that I used my body and brain to the best of my ability to traverse an established route as fast as I could is a rewarding feeling. 

Following The Route…Or Not

The Tour Divide route and the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route have some minor differences. When we were touring, we followed whichever one made sense at the time and deviated a few times when it made sense. When I chose to race, following the Tour Divide route mile for mile was required. 

Touring: Making route choices was something extra we had to think about on our tour. We had the freedom to choose where we’d ride, but we also had to take responsibility for those choices if things didn’t work out. Our first detour from the Tour Divide route was around the hours-long hike-a-bike up Koko Claims in British Columbia, Canada. We had done zero hike-a-bike training and figured the risk of injury using untrained muscles wasn’t worth it. We talked to a local mechanic in Banff and he confirmed that going through Sparwood was a better choice for us and even gave us recommendations to take some new singletrack that paralleled the Great Divide Route. We had a blast on that section of trail and when we rejoined the route in Fernie, we saw racers with mud-covered bikes and bodies. Andrew and I looked at each other and agreed that we made the right call.

We didn’t escape every opportunity to hike through mud, though. Our longest mud stretch was on the legendary Bannack Road. We hiked for miles with our bikes on our shoulders or backs when rolling our bikes meant the tires collected mud and became bogged down in seconds. After encountering another rider at an intersection who told us the next section “was like something out of a nightmare” with more mud, it was an easy decision to take a paved short-cut into Lima. We agreed that detouring around long hike-a-bike sections with mud would help us maintain our sanity and have more fun on our trip. Detouring around spots that promised only suffering and misery didn’t make me feel any less like a route finisher at the end, but it definitely made for a more fun experience. I felt successful just getting from Banff to Antelope Wells under my own power. 

Racing: To be a Tour Divide finisher, I was required to follow the published race route exactly. The times I went off route for supplies, I had to re-enter the route at the same point I left it. A wrong turn meant I would need to go back from where I deviated from the route to correct the mistake. When it was raining going over Togwotee Pass, I had to make the turn onto the notoriously muddy Brooks Lake Road to hike and ride through slop and snow instead of detouring on the paved road that paralleled it. When I’d toured the route, I’d taken the detour, so I knew exactly how nice the pavement was while I was trudging along at a mile an hour. 

Participating in the race made route decisions easy. I just followed the line on my GPS and hiked when I needed to. If I wanted to finish, I had to stay on route. Since detouring around slow or potentially dangerous situations wasn’t an option, I also had to consider weather forecasts and my timing carefully. 

During the tour, we didn’t really care how long resupply stops took. We typically sat down for a meal in a restaurant at least once a day and drank local beers. While I was racing, efficient resupplies were important. Limiting stop time is free speed and since I was demanding so much of my body, I didn’t drink beer along the way. 

Touring: On our tour, we ate well and neither of us lost weight. Missing restaurant or grocery store hours didn’t mean we needed to keep moving to the next stop or eat a gas station burrito for dinner, we could just… wait. The pace of our resupplies was relaxed. We often took two-hour lunch breaks at restaurants and leisurely walked down the aisles of a grocery store or gas station until we had everything we needed. Salida became one of my favorite towns on the route after eating a huge barbecue Hawaiian pizza and salad at Moonlight Pizza and Brewpub. We slept in a hostel there and stayed up late talking with Continental Divide Trail hikers and other travelers. Our huge meals at cafes and conversations with both locals and other bike tourers added to our experience and gave us a flavor of the communities we were passing through. 

Racing: Logistics and efficiency can be an interesting puzzle to figure out during a bikepacking race. Riding later into the night meant that hitting towns during business hours was more challenging. Before the race, I studied the towns and added business hours to a spreadsheet. I was aware of the times I might need to stock up on more food if I was going to potentially miss the next resupply.

When I was a few miles from a town, I would pull up my spreadsheet where I had calculated the distance, estimated time, and estimated calories needed to get to the next stop. I would start making a list in my head of the foods I wanted to get. “Potato chips, candy bars, some kind of gummy candy, pastries, burritos.” You know, all kinds of healthy stuff. I would run over that list in my head, picturing where I might find those things in the gas station or grocery store I was headed to. When I arrived at the stop, I would immediately start looking for an outlet if I needed to charge my electronics, then I would go into the store with my phone calculator in hand. I would walk down the aisles putting food into my basket, adding up the calories until I had enough. Then I would focus on the meal I wanted to eat right then. Normally a vegetarian, I made some exceptions to my normal diet, eating chicken at times when I couldn’t find another good protein source in a gas station.

I ate while I packed up my bike instead of sitting down at a restaurant with one exception. I arrived in Sargents, Colorado, feeling nostalgic. It’s where the Western Express ACA Route crosses the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Having been there with Andrew both on our cross-country tour in 2012 and our 2018 tour got me all sappy and I felt like I needed to sit down, reset, and get some real food in me. 

Companionship or Solitude

I feel lucky to have shared the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route with Andrew. We made countless memories that we still reflect on today. During the race, I found companionship, but my time with other racers was brief and I spent most of the ride by myself. This might sound lonely, but I also really value alone time and moments spent by myself in beautiful places can be equally as moving for me as moments in those places with another person. 

Touring: Andrew and I rode the entire route side by side. It was really special to have shared the experience with the most important person in my life. We were in tune with each other’s needs, moods, and when to provide a gentle reminder that maybe the other needs a snack. When conditions were tough, we kept each other’s minds busy by playing 20 questions. We made decisions as a team about where to stop for food and where to camp for the night. We had both of our brains to deal with mechanicals and make decisions about any reroutes.

In general, riding together tends to be slower. You’re going whatever pace the slowest person at the time is going and end up taking more breaks since you’re dealing with two people’s needs. We typically rode about the same pace and if one of us needed a break, the other was patient. We both wanted the other to feel good and enjoy the ride.

Andrew and I are fortunate that we get along really well, but we did have our moments. I know that Andrew was pretty upset with me when I lost my rain jacket on a rough descent one day just before sunset. (I have since learned that everything that I want to keep goes in a zipper pocket). He sprinted back up the road to go find it while I rode much more slowly behind him. Fortunately a kind racer picked it up so he didn’t have to ride too far up the climb. Then there was the time when Andrew insisted on taking photos of the Montana/Idaho border sign in a thunderstorm. As someone who hates thunderstorms, all I wanted to do was ride down the pass and became increasingly frustrated as Andrew insisted on taking several selfies. 

Racing:  

While the Tour Divide is set up to be ridden solo, many racers end up forming small groups to ride with. While I rode mostly alone, I did have some time riding alongside other racers, typically for a short time. I would see other racers in towns and when we took breaks. Spending time with people briefly once a day was enough social interaction to keep me sane. I’m a pretty introverted and independent person. Extensive alone time doesn’t bother me and is something I look forward to. Still, every time I would run into my good friend and fellow racer Zack, who was also on a singlespeed, we would chat and share a few miles. The emotional boost provided by those interactions was undeniable.

Andrew was also racing the Tour Divide this year. We anticipated not seeing each other unless something went wrong for him. We agreed not to communicate about the race at all while we were out there. We sent a few voice memos with funny stories. I told him about the time I ate jalapeño chips and they went down the wrong pipe and I gave myself a bloody nose coughing them back up. We promised to not say, “I miss you,” because it just makes us both sad. But I did miss him, and being alone definitely reminded me how much I love Andrew, my friends, and my family.  

One of the hardest moments during my race was leaving Brush Mountain Lodge. Kirsten wasn’t planning to be there during the race, but she was. I had already stopped in Savery just 15 miles down the hill for an hour, so I didn’t have more time to spare to spend time with her and my good friend, Jolly, who was helping at the lodge. I left in tears, wishing I could have stayed. I was comforted by the thought that I could come back to the lodge after I was finished. 

Traveling solo meant that I generally had to deal with my fears alone, but after a particularly scary lightning experience outside of Pie Town, I was glad to be able to decompress with other bikepackers and hikers at the Toaster House in Pie Town. Just a few miles out of town, I’d felt electricity running through both of my hands through my handlebars and jumped off my bike and got under a small clump of juniper trees. I set up my tarp to stay dry and sat in the lightning position until the storm passed. I was pretty hysterical. After that, I decided to stay at the Toaster House in Pie Town. I felt like I needed indoor accommodations and to talk to other humans to feel okay to go back out into the elements the next day. Jefferson, the host, made a hot meal for me, the other bike tourers, and the CDT hiker staying there. I spent a lot more time talking with them than I normally would have during a race. Talking about our experiences on the route and what life is like outside of bike touring and racing helped me to reset and calm down. 

Outside of the emotional support of companionship, I had to be confident in my ability to fix my bike, make good choices in a fatigued state, and be safe on my own. I haven’t always felt confident bikepacking solo, but as I’ve gained more experience I’ve become more comfortable. One of the only times I felt weird being alone is when I saw a man on the side of the trail who was loading a gun. He asked, “Are you alone?” I went ahead and told him that there are other riders right behind me, which is my typical answer for any man who asks me that question. 

Sharing the Experience

I wanted to document both our tour and my race. It’s so easy to forget little details if you don’t record or write them down. Documentation takes extra effort, but I’m happy that I did it during both trips.

Touring: On our tour, I laid in my sleeping bag and typed out a blog post with pictures from my phone every night so that our friends and family could follow along, and now I can look back and remember something from each day of the tour. Andrew also took an action camera and made a video about our trip. I found that we were less likely to record our low moments riding together since it’s a bit rude to put a camera in your partner’s face when they’re having a bad time. 

Racing: Documenting my race was important to me. I carried a GoPro and posted occasional Instagram stories. Race documentation by outside media crews during the Tour Divide has been met with controversy in recent years, so aside from wanting the footage for myself, I wanted to show that there is a self-supported way to tell my story. My Instagram stories and GoPro footage is certainly not as beautiful as a professionally documented film, but it’s raw and I like it that way. Most of my documentation was done while I was pedaling, and I put together the GoPro footage when I was recovering after the race. 

It’s interesting to think about the ethics of posting on social media in the context of self-supported racing. I inevitably got encouraging messages whenever I posted. Knowing that my friends were watching definitely made me want to continue to ride my best. Ultimately I decided that since people generally have access to a smart phone with social media, I wasn’t giving myself an unfair advantage by posting on Instagram. Some may disagree, but I feel good about what I chose to do during the race. I was intentional about my posts as to not solicit advice or support from other people and maintain the self-supported nature of the ride.

Romance, or Lack Thereof, of Camping

For a lot of bikepacking trips, finding a beautiful camping spot can be a highlight of the trip. When racing, I went to bed after dark and any spot was as good as the next. We put a little more intention into camp spots while touring, and I slept better during our tour knowing there was another set of ears next to me. 

Touring: Andrew and I slept most nights in our two-person tent. We’d start looking for a spot to camp as sunset approached. We didn’t care so much about whether we slept somewhere scenic, but we had higher standards than when I raced. We got a couple hotel rooms when the weather was wet. I admittedly stole Andrew’s puffy jacket on nights when I was cold! We typically woke up with the sun and quit pedaling at sunset, giving us plenty of rest. We rode past dark one night in New Mexico to beat the heat which turned out to be the only time we saw a bear during the entire trip. Aside from those few miles, we saw the whole route in the daylight. 

Racing: My standards for camping while racing were pretty low and I almost always rode past sunset. I didn’t mind riding in the dark since I had seen the route in the daylight before. Riding at night is a new way to experience the same place differently. I love looking up at the stars on a clear night and seeing animals who are normally sleeping during the daytime. Since I was riding more in the morning and evening, I had way more wildlife sightings during the race than during the tour. I saw several bears, one little fuzzball of a bear cub, a mountain lion, three moose during the day and three at night, countless deer and pronghorn, and a handful of other smaller animals.  

When it was time to choose a spot to sleep, I made sure the location I chose was dry and not too high in elevation. If there was snow, that was a hard no. In New Mexico, the monsoons were so intense that it was difficult to find a spot that didn’t look like water was running there at some point. The worst camp spot I chose was on the side of the highway under a tree next to a bunch of garbage. It was one of the only dry-ish spots I could find. 

I enjoyed indoor accommodations twice during the race, at the Llama Ranch in Montana and at the Toaster House in New Mexico. Those nights felt very luxurious. If you count pit toilets, I had a few additional nights inside in bear country. I camped with other riders for two of the nights. Aside from that, I slept under my tarp, in my bivy, by myself. 

Getting to Antelope Wells

During both trips, a big goal was finishing the route. I made different decisions during both trips to meet my goals. While I was racing I had to make these decisions under pressure. 

Touring: The top goal for our tour was finishing the route. While we were on a timeline, we took a couple of shorter days in the beginning while our bodies got used to pedaling long miles. It wasn’t a big deal to stop early because there was no pressure of racing. When Andrew’s Achilles tendons started to flare up a few days in and we saw a sign for a brewery in the middle of nowhere, we stopped and drank beer even though we had just taken a lunch break. This gave his ankles a much needed rest, allowed us to reflect on all the riding we’d done so far, and gave us a Montana cultural experience. Being able to make choices without the pressure of racing undoubtedly helped us make decisions that got us to Antelope Wells. 

Racing: Finishing the route was also a goal for the race, but more than that, I wanted to go faster than I did during our tour. If for some reason I wasn’t able to go that pace due to body or bike issues, I probably would have considered scratching. It just wouldn’t be worth putting my body through the stress if I couldn’t meet my goal. This was definitely a change in attitude for someone who used to value finishing at all costs. 

During the race, I let the speed of others dictate some of my decision making. The day I got into Colorado, I was the third woman. I was six hours behind Ana, the second woman, and 14 hours behind Zoe, the first woman. It was clear to me that I had no chance of winning without making a huge move. I thought to myself, “All I have to lose is my sleep and sanity.” That night I rode much later than I had on previous nights, slept for two hours, and got really close to Ana. But the decision to sleep so little meant I was worthless the next day. All the people riding the same pace as me before caught back up to me by the end of the day. The pressure of racing guided me toward sacrificing sleep when I should have taken better care of my body. When I found out Zoe quit that day I felt pretty dumb for letting her distance ahead of me dictate how much I slept. I re-learned the lesson that I need to take care of myself to ride strong and making decisions based on how another person is riding is usually a mistake. Had I kept riding and sleeping the way I should have, maybe I could have stayed closer to Ana in the end. 

Feeling Part of Something

Humans, even the introverted ones, are all social creatures, and our brains are wired to want to be part of a community. During both trips, I felt part of a group of bikepackers riding their bikes from Banff to Antelope Wells. When we were touring, we definitely felt different than the racing group. 

Touring: While we started our tour on the same day as the Grand Depart of the Tour Divide and were around racers much of the time, it felt like we were doing something different than they were. It wasn’t a positive or negative thing, just different. After finishing, I definitely felt part of a group of people who have completed the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, and when we meet people who have accomplished this feat, we have an instant connection. 

Andrew and I were fortunate to be able to help out at Brush Mountain Lodge in 2021. During that time, we talked with racers and hundreds of people touring the route. Often the tourers would say, “I’m just touring.” When I heard that, I tried to tell them that you don’t have to say “just.” I totally get it though. Andrew and I said the same thing when we were touring and people in towns asked us if we were racing. Sometimes they would treat us differently than racers. There were places with banners for only racers to sign or some people would become uninterested after they found out we were “just” touring. That wasn’t the case everywhere. Kathy from Ovando greets every bikepacker who comes through town with the same enthusiasm regardless of racing or touring status. 

Racing: When I sign up for a Grand Depart event, I feel a connection to the racers around me. It helps when I’m walking through snow, riding through rain, or staying up late into the night knowing there are other people out there doing the same. I have always experienced this as a positive thing until this year. There were 15 rescues in the Canadian Flathead in the first few days of the race. There were reports of racers using hotel towels to clean their drivetrains. Later in Montana I ran into a local man trying to get home but couldn’t because photographers following the race blocked the road. When I heard about the rescues, poor manners at the hotel, and saw the behavior of the photographers, I was embarrassed to be part of the race. It made me angry that people participating in the Tour Divide were having a negative impact on the communities the route traverses. I’m hopeful that future Tour Dividers can look at this year as a learning experience and that future racers give more respect to the route, the power of Mother Nature, and the people along the route. That being said, for the majority of racers who completed the route, the challenging weather conditions this year provided an unforgettable experience and swapping stories with other racers will be something we can do for years to come. 

As a woman racer, I also feel a strong connection to other women on the route. All of the racers I saw were men, though I saw several northbound touring women and always stopped to say hi and have a brief conversation, usually about the route ahead. While I didn’t see other women racers after the first day, when I got to Colorado, I did my best to chase down Ana. Ana managed to stay ahead and went on to win the women’s race, 15 hours ahead of me. Even though we never met, somehow I felt like I knew her since I traced her tracks on the trail. When I got to meet her later in the summer after she crushed the Colorado Trail Race with a second-place finish, I considered her a friend instantly.

Racing or Touring 

I’m so grateful Andrew and I had the opportunity to tour the route together in 2018. We did have limited time, so it was a fast tour, but we never felt rushed and didn’t have to follow the rules of the race. We shared gear and deviated from the route when it made sense. Our resupply stops were relaxed and we ate lots of huge meals at cafes along the route. We stayed well rested and well fueled. When I thought I only had one opportunity to experience the wonder of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, I chose to ride it as a tour and I would 100% make that same choice again. 

Racing offered a new experience of an incredible route. At the finish, I was totally depleted. I left it all out there mentally and physically. I was proud of my effort and the fact that I was able to race the route faster than I rode it before. Thinking about all of the tough times I had out there and how I was able to overcome the challenges of the weather, terrain, and my own fears made me feel confident and accomplished. 

Sometimes there is more external motivation to participate in an event or race. People tend to glorify racing over touring or other creative endeavors even though each of these experiences has value. I definitely got more attention for finishing the Tour Divide as a race rather than a tour. Bikepacking.com published an article about how I was the second woman to finish the race and how I raced on a singlespeed. But, my close friends and family were just as excited when I finished my tour as when I finished the race, and those are the people who matter most.

At times touring an established route or making your own route can be more intrinsically rewarding than participating in a race. Before I choose whether to race or tour a route, I’ll consider what my body can handle, my personal goals, and my motivation. I plan to continue pursuing both racing and touring, collecting as many lessons and taking in as much beauty as I can along the way.

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Katie Strempke

12 responses to “Touring the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route vs. Racing the Tour Divide”

Based on my dreams and ambitions, this is some of the best bike-related content I have ever had the pleasure of consuming. I would never dream of racing, but it was very interesting and useful to read about the different perspectives. If I ever had the chance to meet you, I would ask questions about mechanicals, laundry and hygiene.

Thanks for putting this together!

This is a really cool perspective. Thanks for sharing, Katie!

Thanks for taking the time to detail your thoughts of racing versus touring. I just finished my first bike packing race and connect to your words. Normally “just” touring, I gained a new understanding of the lure of Bikepack racing and how you don’t get back those extra hours stopping early or sitting down for a prepared meal. I did value so much meeting the other racers on route. I was especially excited to briefly chat with you as you filtered water and later on a paved climb about your gearing choices before you went on to crush it!!

Katie…Outstanding content, insights and inspiration! I did WY and CO sections of the GDBMR last summer (time of my life!) and I am ready for more…notably Canada and MT hopefully this summer. I want to do this ride with 1 to a few other riders. I’m a 61 year old slow and steady rider that enjoyed the company of a few Adventure Cycling companions during last summers ride. This year, my personal schedule does not allow me to sign up for one of their trips but that will NOT stop me from tackling the next 2 sections. Do you have any recommendations for finding a source to cast the net to see if there’s any interested riders I might connect with to explore joining my small band of slow and steady riders? I am planning loosely for about 50 +/ – miles a days mostly camping with definite stops at motels, hostels etc. to recharge and shower! While I love the camping aspect of bikepacking, I am ready to spend money as needed to be somewhat comfortable and recharge when necessary. My windows for travel this summer is 29 July to 19 August. I will cycle as much and as far as I can in that time.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

thanks for the inspiration!!

All the best, Tony Sirianni

The “Great Divide Mountain Bike Route – Trail Conditions, Q&A, Gear & Stories” Facebook group could be a good place to start!

Hi, do you have your gps track published? I’d love to know your route around koko claims!

Hi Mike! Here’s a post including the Strava ride for the route we took around Koko Claims.

https://dispersed.bike/blog/great-divide-day-2/

It’s been a few years, so might be worth checking with someone local. The GDMBR does not go over Koko Claims, so that’s an option too. We took a combination of the GDMBR route and followed recommendations from Dave, the bike mechanic in Banff to get off of the highway a bit more than the GDMBR route.

Katie, thanks for sharing your experiences on this route. What did Andrew ride (bike, drivetrain, gearing, storage accessories)? Thank you.

Hi Patrick! Here’s a link to Andrew’s gear lists for each of the Triple Crown races last year, including the Tour Divide. https://dispersed.bike/blog/triple-crown-gear-list/

Thank you for such an amazing write up. I’m an old duffer (55) thinking about attempting the route (race or tour) and this helped immensely

hi Katie! what’s the difference between riding the TD in singlespeed or with gear?what do you prefer?love to see the bike “clean” in a singlespeed but have to consider much more time to push the bike….. thanks Matteo ps: congratulations on your bike adventure!!

I didn’t spin much time pushing my bike, but I did spend a lot of time spun out! I’d say only ride singlespeed on the Divide if you already do most of your rides singlespeed and are passionate about riding that way.

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Halfway Anywhere

The Tour Divide: What, Where, Why, and How?

The Tour Divide is an annual 2,700-mile (4,300 km) self-supported bikepacking race following the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR). Most of the route follows dirt and gravel roads with a few sections of pavement or singletrack sprinkled in for good measure (along with the occasional hike-a-bike section).

Cursory internet sleuthing tells me that the current iteration of the Tour Divide began in 2008. However, the first individual time trial of the route was in 2005, and people have been riding the GDMBR since as early as 1997 when the Adventure Cycling Association first mapped it.

Speaking of websites, the current Tour Divide website hasn’t been updated since 2014 and leaves much to be desired. Or perhaps the state of the website is instead part of the Tour Divide’s charm? Mystique? Neato-ness?

You may already have more questions than answers if you’ve encountered this with zero knowledge of the Tour Divide or the GDMBR. Fear not; they will be addressed. Also, know that I will likely have many of the same questions. I intend to answer said questions by participating in (and hopefully completing) this year’s Tour Divide.

That said, I’ve been doing my research (and investing heavily in bikepacking gear).

What Is the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route?

The northern terminus of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) is in Jasper (it was in Banff – the start of the Tour Divide – until 2018), a resort town in Alberta, Canada. It then heads south for over 3,000 mi / 4,800 km to its southern terminus at the US-Mexico Border at Antelope Wells, New Mexico. It can be ridden in either direction, but it’s traditionally ridden southbound.

Along with the Arizona Trail and the Colorado Trail, it comprises the most significant leg of bikepacking’s Triple Crown; similar to the thru-hiking Triple Crown comprised of the Pacific Crest Trail , Continental Divide Trail , and Appalachian Trail .

The route is almost entirely along dirt and gravel roads and is, for the most part, not a technical ride (i.e., you don’t need to be an expert-level mountain biker to navigate the GDMBR). Yes, there are a few short sections of singletrack, but overall, this route is suited for gravel or mountain bikes (but certainly not road bikes).

The GDMBR is approximately 3,000 mi / 4,800 km long and has over 133,000 ft / 40,500 m of climbing and an equal amount of descent. It passes through seven states/provinces: Alberta, British Columbia, Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Colorado, and New Mexico. Despite beginning in Canada (as in riders must pass immigration at a border crossing), the route does not enter Mexico; it ends (or begins) at the US-Mexico Border.

The Difference Between the Tour Divide and the GDMBR

You may be asking yourself, as I have, what’s the difference between the Tour Divide and the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route? The answer? Nothing. Kind of.

The Tour Divide is the name of the annual self-supported race of the GDMBR . Put another way, the Tour Divide follows the GDMBR. However, it begins in Banff instead of Jasper; Banff was the northern terminus of the GDMBR until 2018, when it was moved to Jasper. At least, that’s all you need to know if you’re not racing and/or riding the Tour Divide. What’s self-supported? It means that racers are only afforded resources available to everyone else participating.

For example, staying at a hotel? Perfectly fine. Staying at a friend’s house? Not okay.

When you drill down to the details, there are a few sections where the Tour Divide diverges from the GDMBR. But for all intents and purposes, they’re the same; again, unless you’re concerned about racing the Tour Dviide, then there are a few spots you need to take note of.

Every year, people bikepack all or part of the GDMBR on their own (in both directions). These people can take as much or as little time as they like – many presumably even enjoy their experience. Meanwhile, others decide to race the Tour Divide beginning on the second Friday of June at the northern terminus in Banff, Alberta (in Canada). The latter group’s enjoyment often falls more heavily into the Type II (or even Type III) fun category.

The GDMBR Versus the Continental Divide Trail

When I first hiked the Continental Divide Trail (CDT), I met one person in Island Park, Idaho, who was riding the Divide; I had no idea what they were doing, what the Tour Divide was, or what the GDMBR was. The cyclist was stoked to see me and my CDT hiking buddy, but we thought ourselves cooler than him because what could be cooler than hiking the CDT?

How things have changed. I apologize for not greeting you with the enthusiasm you deserved, anonymous 2017 Tour Divide racer.

Despite the CDT following a lot of dirt and gravel roads – that would be suitable for bikepacking – there’s actually very little overlap between the two routes. Yes, there will be opportunities for northbound CDT thru-hikers to see Tour Divide riders, but many will pass like ships in the night.

The Tour Divide starts too early for southbound CDT hikers to catch any riders, but they could still encounter northbound GDMBR riders during their thru-hikes. Remember, play nice if/when you see each other out there. We’re all out there doing awesome things in nature. There’s no need to perpetuate a bikepacker-backpacker divide (on the Divide).

How to Participate in the Tour Divide

The community that has made the Tour Divide what it is today doesn’t exist as an official organization or entity. Instead, it’s willed into being by the yearly riding crop’s cohesion, carrying on traditions from and iterating upon actions of previous years’ cyclists.

There’s no sign-up form, no entry fee, no website (at least not a website updated in the last decade), and no organized event at the starting line in Banff (or at the finish line at Antelope Wells, New Mexico).

Most of the organization appears to come from Facebook groups (typically some of the most toxic online cesspools, but in rare cases, useful information corners). Every year, participants who provide tracking information (using a device such as a Garmin inReach Mini 2 ) to trackleaders can be watched online as they move down the course.

You show up in Banff, start riding south on the second Friday in June, tell anyone who asks that you’re riding the Tour Divide, and BOOM! you’re officially racing the Tour Divide. I’ve heard that in recent years that the community attempts to organize waves of riders (based on estimated finishing time) to ease impacts and congestion on/along the start of the race. Don’t want the local government to come in and try to shut down the unofficial race, after all.

Maybe one day, the magic of this unofficial, unorganized, organized, official bikepacking race will wane as permits, regulations, and rules are imposed with increasing popularity and awareness of the event. Maybe someone will write a best-selling book about the Tour Divide and blow it up like a certain unnamed book did to a certain unnamed trail in the Western United States.

Apparently, you’re supposed to send in a letter of intent to a random email address that I suspect is maintained by the crew at Bikepacking.com , but the letters of intent used to be posted to the Tour Divide website (which seems like it was a fun tradition that’s now sadly gone as of 2010).

For now, you only need to get on your bike and ride.

The Tour Divide is the unofficial orrifical self-supported race of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, with a few changes to the route. Simple enough, right?

It’s an incredible test of physical and mental endurance, with many riders forgoing sleep to put in more hours on the bike (how many hours I sleep every night is something I’m interested in seeing).

According to DotWatcher , since the Tour Divide’s conception in 2008, only 716 riders have completed the race (this number is likely not 100% accurate, but it’s about as good as we can do). Hopefully, after this year’s race, I will be able to count myself among the fewer than 1,000 total finishers.

For now, it’s time to go and ride my bike .

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7 STEP PLANNING GUIDE TO BIKEPACKING THE TOUR DIVIDE (GDMBR)

EASY TO FOLLOW STEPS TO GET YOU ON THE TOUR DIVIDE.

For more information on the Tour Divide visit our TD Resource page . »

After completing the bikepacking triple crown,  I decided to make this Tour Divide Planning Guide (GDMBR).  The triple crown taught me a lot and I want to share that knowledge with others.  The process of planning a trip of this kind can be time consuming and stressful.

I can’t empathize how important planning is and how greatly it can effect the outcome of your race/tour. The more work you do before hand and information you have available to you during the race, the better off you’ll be. Bottom line, DO YOUR HOMEWORK!

I’ve taken everything I learned on and off the Tour Divide ( CTR and AZT ), and put it into this 7 Step Planning Guide to racing/touring the Tour Divide (GDMBR).  Hopefully anyone planning a race/tour of the route can get almost all the information they need from this post,  accompanying posts , and external links provided below.

I might have done most of the leg work for you, but that shouldn’t stop you from doing your own deeper research to better your chances and improve the outcome of your trip even further.  I am human and might have missed something. If I did let me know and I’ll add it or make a correction. Thanks!

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STEP 1: RACE OR TOUR

RACING PROS:

• Racing in the company of others (There’s no guarantee others will be racing near you).
• Chance to test yourself in one of the worlds longest MTB races.
• Bond with fellow racers in a shared experience.

TOURING PROS:

• No limitation of start time, route, or direction.
• Ability to stop without fear of the clock.
• Physically and mentally less demanding (depending on pace).

RACING CONS:

• No choice of start time or direction.
• No flexibility of your route.
• Very demanding, both mentally and physical.

TOURING CONS:

• Smaller chance of meeting fellow cyclists.
• Slightly higher risk (Less people and support if you get injured or have a bike issues).

Race or Tour?  GDMBR, Tour Divide, or Tour Divide Max?  You have many options.  Make sure which ever you choose, it’s your choice.  For most of us this is a once in a lifetime event.

STEP 2: PICK A DATE

The race always starts on the second Friday in June.

• 2nd Friday of June (Banff, AB – YMCA)

If racing is not your thing and you want more flexibility, then touring is for you.  The weather window for the Tour Divide (GDMBR) is from June to Mid-October.  Snow can be found or occur at anytime on the route.  Consequently be prepared for anything, no matter when you choose to go.

STEP 3: WHICH DIRECTION TO GO?

NORTH TO SOUTH (Canada to Mexico):

• Starting with others (safety, chance to share knowledge)
• Flatter finish = easier
• ACA maps are written in north/south direction
• Harder start.
• Weather can be unpredictable.

SOUTH TO NORTH (Mexico to Canada)

• Physically easier start.
• More convenient finish (getting to airport).
• Harder to get to start.
• Less riders.
• Harsher environment (heat)

Some times Mother Nature has a say in which diction you’ll go.  Checkout the snowpack levels at the Snotel website to find out.

Tour Divide Rider Survey

The Project conducts an ongoing rider survey to help new riders try to figure out what gear to use on the Tour Divide. Undertaking a ride/adventure like can be very intimidating and the planning can be overwhelming. It’s our hope this survey will help new riders with their planning and execution of their Tour Divide ride, as well as help ensure riders are more properly prepared for their adventure.

If you haven’t taken the Tour Divide Rider Survey yet and would like to you can at the links below.

***Please pay attention to the examples for the questions where you have to type in your answer. If answers are not entered EXACTLY like the example I have to go in and correct them and it also throws off the results. Thanks in advance!

Covers: bikes, suspension, tires & wheels, drivetrain, and Components.

Covers: navigation planning, camping, logistic/travel, clothes, and more.

STEP 4: SETTING UP A RESUPPLY / ITINERARY SCHEDULE

The first 3 steps are fairly easy to check off your list.  Steps 4-7 take more thought and work. Put some time into them and don’t simply pass over them.  As mentioned earlier, this is where you do your homework.

A well put together resupply and itinerary are key items, that can effect both the success and ease of your race/tour of the Divide.  Chances are you won’t follow your itinerary once on the route but it still serves as a reminder of what your goal was/is. On the other hand you’ll reference your resupply list multiple times a day.  This is where you want to put the most detail into.

Checkout my post, Tour Divide Resupply Planner , where I give you everything you need to plan your own resupply/itinerary.

STEP 5: GEAR

Gear is another key item you need to really research before you hit the trail.  Depending on your pace you’ll be spending anywhere from two weeks or more on the Divide.  During that time you’ll run into every type of weather you can image.  Combine the weather with countless hours in the saddle and you’re going to want to have the right gear, gear that is reliable, tested and offers comfort.

I put a  whole page together that covers the gear I used during my Tour Divide, (and on the Colorado Trail and Arizona Trail).  Most recently I made another post with what gear I would use if I did the TD again. I show pros/cons, tips, things that didn’t work and did, and what  I would do differently next time.

STEP 6: TRAINING

Everyone does some sort of training when doing a race/tour of this length.  You have to consider both physical and mental training, when you considering doing the TD.  Like the old adage says, “It’s 90% mental and 10% physical”.

We all train differently, so I won’t pretend to tell you how you should.  Rather, I’ll give you some tips and tell you some of the things that made the TD hard for me.

• Practice riding back to back long days.
• Having a strong core will help keep your back happy with the long hours in the saddle.
• Ride at night, you will do plenty of it on the Divide.
• I found it mentally hard to ride into the night after already being on the bike for 16+ hours.  Train your brain.
• Consider your diet and try to learn how much you need to eat for day after day of riding.

STEP 7: Do a Shakedown Ride

Testing your set up is key.  Don’t think you can just slap your gear in your bags, check their tightness and go.  Get out there and ride your bike loaded.  Learn how it handles, listen for what rattles, see what rubs, and most of all, what doesn’t work.

An untested set up will result in unneeded stress during your race/tour.  Take the time to eliminate this by doing a Shakedown Ride .  It will also get you used to a loaded bike.

Consider the following when testing your set up:

• No one is perfect, as a result no one nails their set up the first time.  Try different ways and see which is the best.
• Is your load balanced?
• If you have a question whether something is going to work or not, address it before you go.
• Test your GPS and electronics thoroughly.
• Bottles mounted on forks and down tubes fall off and rub.  Make sure you ensure they won’t so you don’t lose water carrying capacity.

Tour Divide Planning Aids

Being that I’m also a Triple Crown thru-hiker I’m used to quality planning tools. After finishing the Bikepacking Triple Crown I realized bikepacking didn’t have quality planning tools available. The Project’s Planning Aids and Resources are our answer to this.

After 100’s of hours of research, 1000’s of keystrokes, more emails and phone calls than I can recall the One of Seven Project’s Tour Divide Planning Aids are done. They’re the ultimate planning resources for the Tour Divide. They contain everything you need to plan and execute your ride/ride of the Tour Divide and most of the GDMBR. If you can’t find what you’re looking for in these then it’s probably in our Tour Divide Resources .

Craig, I wanted to let you know that your bikepacking guides are incredibly well done and useful.

Small Bundles:

Big bundles:.

One package including our two most popular planning aids:

One package with all our planning aids:

• Mileage Chart
• Elevation Gain Chart

Available in both SOBO and NOBO versions and US Standard and Metric units.

Small Bundle – $40.00 + tax (CO only) *You save $10 when you bundle!

Big Bundle – $60.00 + tax (CO only) *You save $20 when you bundle!

Data Sheets and Town Lists

Data sheets:, town lists:.

The NOBO Data Sheets are ONLY available as part of the Small or Big Bundles.

All versions of the Town Lists are ONLY available as part of the Small or Big Bundles.

• Elevation / Pop of POI.
• Mileage numbers.
• Distance to next.
• Elevation +/-.
• Max & Min. elevation between POI.
• Pavement sections.
• Key water sources.
• Shows bike shops.
• Resupply options.
• Important notes.
• Elevation profile.
• Finish Target Times.
• Distance on/off trail.
• Important notes about POI.
• Cumulative distances to up coming POI.
• Elevation Gain to reach up coming POI.
• Finish Target Times added.

The SOBO Data Sheets are available in BOTH US Standard and Metric units.

Data Sheet – $25 + Tax (CO only)

Example of Data Sheet

Example of Town List

DATA SHEET and TOWN LIST DIFFERENCES

The Data Sheet has the most info. It gives the distance, elevation +/-, average grade, maximum and minimum elevations, pavement sections, references ACA maps, bike shops, resupply options, and has key notes between two POI. Example: A and B, then B to C, and so on.

The Town List gives cumulative distances between POI. Example: A to B, A to C, A to D. The next section would be B to C, B to D, B to E, and so on. The Town List has distance, elevation +/-, resupply options, bike shops and key notes.

The Town List helps with not having to do the math to figure out how far away things are if they’re not the next POI.

Mileage Charts and Elevation Gain Charts

Mileage charts:, elevation gain charts:.

Quickly find the total mileage between any two POI along the route.

• Works for both directions.

Quickly find the total elevation gain between any two POI along the route.

• Easy to read format.

The Mileage and Elevation Gain Charts are ONLY available as part of the Big Bundle.

GDMBR / ACA ROUTE

GDMBR Data Sheets have all the same data categories as the Tour Divide planning aids, as seen in the examples above but are for the GDMBR from the ACA.

GDMBR Bundles have all the same data categories as the Tour Divide planning aids, as seen in the examples above but are for the GDMBR from the ACA.

Available in both SOBO and NOBO versions and in US Standard and Metric units.

Data Sheet – $25 + tax (CO only)

More Helpful TD Resources

Everything you need to plan a bikepacking trip on the Tour Divide.

MY PROVEN GEAR LISTS FROM THE TRIPLE CROWN

Tour divide.

A detailed look at what I used on the Tour Divide, what worked and what didn’t.

“ IF I RODE… ” SERIES

In depth look at what I would bring for gear and why, if I rode the Tour Divide again.

Gear Review - If I Rode The Tour Divide Again

Tour Divide Planning Guide

Tour Divide Transportation Guide

Tour Divide Resupply Guide

Tour Divide Rider Survey Results

Checkout our bikepacking resource page for more planning help., checkout all our guides.

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Simply clicking on the links below with our affiliates supports the Project.

Or checkout our Deals page to save big!

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• Events Calendar
• Get Involved

Great Divide Mountain Bike Route

• Riding Conditions
• Updates & Corrections

Ride the longest off-pavement route in the world.

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) is Adventure Cycling’s premier off-pavement cycling route, crisscrossing the Continental Divide in southern Canada and the U.S. This route is defined by the word “remote.” Its remoteness equates with spectacular terrain and scenery. The entire route is basically dirt-road and mountain-pass riding every day. In total, it has over 200,000 feet of elevation gain. Nearly 2,100 miles of the route is composed of county, Forest Service, Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and Canadian provincial unpaved roads. The remainder is 60 miles of singletrack trails and 950 miles of paved roads including close to 50 miles of paved bike paths.

Highlights from the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route

The route is geographically divided into five regions. The diverse nature of the regions makes for an incredible visual, sometimes spiritual experience. The route offers something different every day — whether it be riding conditions, scenery, points of interest, or folks along the way. It is a route to be enjoyed for its diversity.

A wide variety of road conditions exists along this route. Surfaces range from pavement, good gravel roads, four-wheel-drive roads, singletrack, or old railroad beds. There is an excellent opportunity to view wildlife such as bear, deer, wild horses, pronghorn antelope, eagles, osprey, sandhill cranes, and other birds and animals. The route is rich in history, with ghost towns, deserted mines, wagon routes, and old Spanish land grants. The route is near or goes through several national parks such as Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton. Temperatures tend to be chilly at night and cool to warm in the days as you are in mountainous regions most of the way. Wind really isn’t a factor along the route because you spend a lot of time in the cover of trees, with the exception of the Great Basin area. Snow, hail, and afternoon thundershowers can be a factor. Getting up and riding early to avoid the afternoon thundershowers is advisable. Medical help is often a long distance off of the route, so riding within your abilities and being aware of dangers is a must. Mosquitoes are a fact of life — take repellent.

Great Divide Canada, which connects to and extends the U.S. Great Divide Mountain Bike Route northward, showcases some of the most magnificent scenery in the entire Rocky Mountain chain. Paradoxically, the route feels somewhat more settled, or civilized, than many sections to the south in the United States. One reason for this is that Great Divide Canada passes through a string of national and provincial parks, which, not surprisingly, attract a great number of visitors.

Beginning in Jasper, the route counterintuitively runs north to Hinton before heading southward toward Canmore. The paved Legacy Trail brings riders into Banff and through spectacular scenery to Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. From there, a tough climb up and over the Great Divide via a powerline route through the Elk Pass delivers you to Elk Lakes Provincial Park. It’s a six-mile ride from one trailhead to the other that would require more than 200 miles of driving if you had to do it in a car on roads!

The main route rolls onto the Elk Valley Trail beginning in the tiny community of  Round Prairie and follows portions of it on-and-off to the town of Elko. The 80-mile EVT consists of back country roads, singletrack and community trails. Before you reach its end, the booming ski-resort town of Fernie makes a great place for a layover, with its copious motels, sporting goods stores, restaurants, and hiking/mountain-biking trails.

South of Fernie, you can continue on the main route or choose to ride through miles of unbridled wilderness on the Flathead Alternate. Make your choice wisely because the alternate route is extremely remote. It runs through a scenic drainage called the “Serengeti of North America” by biologists for its unrivaled wildlife populations, and it’s the last major valley in British Columbia to be completely undeveloped. The rolling road following the Flathead River is known to locals as “Grizzly Bear Highway” so be very “bear aware.” Along the main route, a dizzying and delightful series of paved and gravel byways, one of which proffers a brief glimpse down on the immense Lake Koocanusa, then wend their way to Grasmere. From there, it’s a seven-mile ride on the highway to the international border and the northern terminus the U.S. route.

Beginning at the Canadian border and heading south to Helena, Montana, you are in the deep woods and steep mountains near Glacier National Park and the Bob Marshall Wilderness. This area is native to grizzly bear, elk, moose, mountain lion, thick woods, and has some difficult climbing. Montana is characterized by mountainous riding in tall forests with occasional dips into small towns. It is also noted for its friendly people. The capital city in Montana, Helena, has less than 40,000 people and a nice small-town feel to it. The other big town along the route is Butte, which has a definite blue-collar, mining flavor. Montana also has the toughest downhill on the route — nicknamed “thermarest hill” for all the thermarests it has eaten. Even the hardiest riders have to walk this one.

From Butte to Pinedale, Wyoming, you’ll be riding through wide-open mountain valleys. The vegetation thins out into valleys with many different varieties of sage and high-elevation alpine woods. The route crosses the Continental Divide many times, and the climbing is longer with very steep sections on some of the roads. You’ll see many cows. You leave Montana crossing the divide into Idaho. You are only in Idaho for 76 miles and ride along some blue-ribbon fishing streams and an old railroad bed on the west side of Yellowstone National Park. You’ll cross into Wyoming between Yellowstone and Grand Teton National parks on a very scenic road with some great backcountry campsites and a genuine undeveloped hot springs. The route cuts through a corner of the Tetons before heading east up over the divide again and then down the west side of the Wind River Range. The prettiest alpine region on the whole route can be found here. Just south of Pinedale, is a stretch with the worst mosquitos on the entire route but makes for a great character builder. Farther on there’s the unforgettable sensation of riding on the crest of the divide for several miles. You then hit an extremely picturesque section of high desert following the Lander cutoff — part of one of the westward wagon routes. Water is very scarce through here, so carry plenty. After dropping into the twin ghost towns of South Pass and Atlantic City, you will cross the Great Basin — a place of almost no drinkable water and no trees. Big northwest winds blow across vast open territory marked with wild horses and antelope. Rawlins, Wyoming, marks the end of the desert.

From southern Wyoming to northern New Mexico, you’ll be in the Colorado Rockies. The ascents on the route stretch out to long mountainous climbs at elevations starting at 8,000 feet or above. Incredible aspen stands, huge mountains, beautiful alpine meadow flora, historical tourist towns, and a less remote wilderness setting are the characteristics of this state. Expect early evening thunderstorms and cold nighttime temperatures. The highest pass of the route is Indiana Pass, elevation 11,910 feet, in southern Colorado. Soon after crossing it, you get to see firsthand what kind of scars mining can leave on the land as you pass right through a federal Superfund site. Heading into New Mexico, the road surface deteriorates, with much more rocky riding. Here the countryside turns much drier, and water sources can be few and far between. Climbs get shorter and steeper. Geographically this region is as remote as any place in the continental United States. Mesas, cliff lines, volcanic formations, and mountain ranges that seem to pop right out of the desert floor are major visual features of this area. Many different cactus and grass varieties somehow provide habitat for small rodents, snakes, and lizards. Townspeople are right out of Old Mexico, with Spanish spoken more than English. Late-summer monsoon rains turn roads into sloppy, red clay and can fill many of the dry creek beds on the route in seconds. Roads are impassable until they dry out. This area is both historically and anthropologically dominated by the rich Native American and southwestern Spanish culture. Coming down the east side of the Gila Wilderness is a welcome relief, with water once again available as you head into Silver City, New Mexico, a place noted for learning about Anasazi culture with the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument north of town and a good museum at the local university. From there it is a sprint south (mostly on pavement) to the border crossing, which consists of one building on the border and nothing else for miles and miles.

Photo by Aaron Teasdale

The elevations encountered on Great Divide Canada are relatively low when compared to those along the Great Divide route in the central Rockies of the United States, where riders must tackle mountain passes of nearly 12,000 feet above sea level. The high point on Great Divide Canada, Elk Pass, is a mere 6,443 feet. Generally, road quality is quite good, although you’ll find that surfaces range from smooth pavement to rutted dirt, where you’ll be thankful that you’re riding a mountain bike and not a road bike. As a rule, if you’re not riding uphill, then you’re headed downhill.

With the exception of the Great Basin in Wyoming, you will be either gaining elevation, or descending, for the entire route. The elevations are lower in Montana — building up to the highest passes in Colorado and then tapering back off in New Mexico. However, some of the toughest climbs are in Montana and New Mexico because of the steepness and the poor road quality. And in New Mexico you’ll be carrying extra food and water for the serviceless stretches.

This route can be ridden anytime from early summer to mid-fall (typically June to October). Be aware that snow can occur at any time along the route. If it is a heavy snow year, high-elevation roads in the north may not be open until late June or early July.

We discourage you from attempting to ride this route solo; in fact, a minimum group size of three is strongly recommended. If a rider is debilitated in the backcountry, you will want to have at least one person to stay with the injured/sick rider, and another to go for help. Cellphone reception is still very spotty along much of the route.

Because June is typically a wet month in the northern Rockies, and often a cold one at the higher elevations, we recommend that you do not attempt to ride prior to late June or early July. High-country snowpack may prevent certain portions from being passable until then, anyway. Concerning the other end of the cycling season, plan on being off the route by mid-October at the latest. Regardless of when you strike out or how long you intend to be there, pack along raingear and cold-weather clothing. Snow or cold rain is possible any day of the year at some of the elevations encountered, and hypothermia is an ever-present possibility.

Remote Terrain Equals Limited Services

The remoteness of this route translates to long stretches of country without basic services, particularly emergency services. All services are minimal at best, except near larger towns, and cell phone coverage is only about 5 percent of the route. About one third of the overnights are characterized as undeveloped wilderness sites, and most others are Forest Service sites with pit toilets and a water source. Food sources are usually small-town establishments, convenience stores, and campground groceries with limited supplies. Towns are spaced every two to three days along most of the route. They tend to be extremely small and often have limited services. It is necessary to be flexible in what you eat. Showers, flush toilets, drinking water, and laundromats are sometimes widely spaced. It is good to have some back-country camping experience before riding the Great Divide to know how to minimally impact the land. The Great Basin in Wyoming and New Mexico both call for long-mileage days and carrying food and water for several days at a time.

Great Divide Canada features some of the most magnificent and forbidding mountain country you’ll ever see — anywhere. You’ll need to deal with a couple of long stretches without basic services. Careful planning will be required to ensure that you have enough food to get you through (though surface water and primitive campgrounds are plentiful). With the exception of large grocery stores in Jasper, Banff, Sparwood, and Fernie, you’ll find food sources to be small-town establishments, often more akin to convenience stores than to supermarkets; consequently, you may find it necessary to exercise flexibility when it comes to menu planning. Also be aware that showers, flush toilets, potable water, and laundromats can be few and far between. It’s wise to have some back-country camping experience before riding Great Divide Canada, and you’ll also want to know the recommended precautions to take when camping and traveling in bear country.

You should also carry bear repellent, available at sporting goods stores in the larger towns of Canada and Montana, and become familiar with its safe and proper use. Always be bear-aware, and follow these rules when camping:

• Store all food, garbage, and other attractants in a bear-resistant manner, well away from your tent. This can include hanging them in a stuff sack from rope slung over a high, isolated tree branch, or storing them in a bear-proof container provided at some campgrounds.
• Attractants such as food leftovers, fish entrails, and bacon grease should not be buried or burned in campfires. Leftover food and waste should be placed in a sealed bag or container and packed out with garbage. If leftover food or other attractants must be burned, do so in a contained fire stove or in an appropriate container over a campfire, then pack out the ash.

Some campgrounds will charge a cyclist traveling alone less if they have hiker/biker sites, but often they will charge the price of a regular tent site, and that can easily be $10-$20/night. If you’re friendly and ask around, you can often get yourself invited to camp in a yard. In national forests you are allowed to camp anywhere on national forest land as long as you “pack it in, pack it out.” Many city parks are free to camp in.

You may also wish to sign up with Warmshowers, a reciprocal hospitality site for bicycle travelers, for other overnight options.

Tough on Equipment

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route is extremely hard on equipment. The weight of your gear exponentially multiplies the stress of riding steep, fast, rough downhills. Wheels, tires, and drivetrains (chains, cassettes, bottom brackets, chainrings) take a lot of abuse and might need replacing along the course of the entire route. Suspension equipment on the bicycle helps to mitigate the abusive nature of the terrain. That said, nylon pivots of some full-suspension bikes wear out extremely fast and are not recommended. Suspension seatposts, good handlebar grips, and front-suspension forks help smooth out the many miles of washboarded and chuckholed roads. Weighting a suspension fork with panniers works well, evens the weighting of the bike, and adds little extra stress to the fork. Trailers also work well and lighten the rear triangle of the bike.

Well-made camping gear is essential for the many nights of high-elevation cold, dew, and rain. A well-ventilated, free-standing, three-season tent covered by a rainfly with ample vestibule space and a “footprint” ground tarp is a must. Sleeping bags should be rated to below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and inflatable mattresses add comfort and warmth. A lot of effort must be taken to keep your possessions dry. Pannier covers, dry bags, and plastic freezer bags all work well to keep the rain and dew off clothing and gear. Good rain gear is also essential.

A high-quality water filter is mandatory; advisably, carry one filter per person in your party. Surface water should be ingested only after running it through a good water filter.

From Salida, Colorado south to the Mexico border, puncturevine or goat’s-head  (Tribulus terrestris L.)  is an invasive plant species that produces thumbtack-like burs capable of puncturing bicycle tires. We highly recommend protecting tires against “goathead thorns” in one of three ways:

1. Sealant-filled or thorn-resistant tubes;

2. Tubeless tires with at least 3oz of sealant per tire;

3. Tire liners, such as Mr. Tuffy tire liner strips.

As for a tire recommendation, we recommend a 2.25” width with a low-profile tread pattern and thick sidewalls.

If you’re in need of a shuttle to complete your Great Divide trip, download our Great Divide Shuttle Options  (pdf) for suggestions.

Route Highlights

Great divide shuttle options.

Great Divide Shuttle Options PDF

Great Divide Highlights

• Glacier National Park, Section 1
• Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway, Section 1
• Red Rock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge, Section 2
• John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway, Section 2
• Yellowstone National Park, Section 2
• Grand Teton National Park, Section 2
• Aspen Alley, Section 3
• Steamboat Springs, Colorado, Section 3
• Summit County, Colorado, Section 4
• Boreas Pass, Colorado, Section 4
• Rio Grande National Forest, Colorado, Section 4
• Tusas Mountains, New Mexico, Section 5
• El Malpais National Monument, El Malpais Alternate, Section 5
• Pie Town, New Mexico, Sections 5 & 6
• Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, Section 6
• Chihuahuan Desert, Section 6
• Pancho Villa State Park, Columbus Alternate, Section 6

More Route Resources

• Practical Advice for Riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route
• Biking with Bears
• How to Be Bear Aware When Bike Camping
• How to Travel with Your Bike on Amtrak
• International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) Rules of the Trail
• Roosville/Grasmere border crossing
• U.S./Canada Visa requirements
• British Columbia Ministry of Forests, Recreation Sites and Trails  (British Columbia)
• Alberta Parks and Recreation  (Alberta)
• Kananaski Country Maps  (Alberta)
• USDA Forest Service Maps 
• Dispersed Camping Guidelines
• National Interagency Fire Center
• Kootenai National Forest (Montana)
• Flathead National Forest (Montana)
• Lolo National Forest (Montana)
• Helena-Lewis & Clark National Forest (Montana)
• Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest (Montana)
• The Nature Conservancy (Montana)
• Caribou-Targhee National Forest (Idaho)
• Bridger-Teton National Forest (Wyoming)
• Shoshone National Forest (Wyoming)
• Rawlins Bureau of Land Management (BLM)  (Wyoming)
• Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest (Wyoming and Colorado)
• Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests (Colorado)
• Pike and San Isabel National Forests (Colorado)
• Grand Mesa Uncompaghre and Gunnison National Forests  (Colorado)
• Rio Grande National Forest (Colorado)
• Carson National Forest (New Mexico)
• Santa Fe National Forest (New Mexico)
• Cibola National Forest (New Mexico)
• Chaco Culture National Historic Park (New Mexico)
• Gila National Forest (New Mexico)
• New Mexico Bureau of Land Management (BLM)
• Antelope Wells and Columbus, New Mexico border crossings
• Connect and share photos with other riders on Instagram: #acaGDMBR

TRAIL GUIDE

Great Divide Canada showcases some of the most magnificent scenery in the entire Rocky Mountain chain. Paradoxically, certain portions seem more settled, or civilized, than many sections of the route to the south in the United States. One reason for this is that Great Divide Canada passes through a string of national and provincial parks, which, not surprisingly, attract a great deal of visitors.

The route begins in spectacular Jasper National Park, first heading not south but in a north-northeasterly direction for more than 30 miles (48 km) – your first on-the-ground evidence that the Great Divide truly is a circuitous route and by no means the quickest way to get there from here. Once out on the rolling plains, the route veers southeast, traversing prairies and foothills at the eastern foot of the Rocky Mountains to a point about 30 miles (48 km) northwest of Calgary, where it turns west to take aim at the mountains.

Starting in Jasper, the quieter of the two main Alberta National Parks towns, you are immediately cast into the wilds on the historical Overlander Trail. This singletrack trail does include two short challenging sections of hike-a-bike that would require you to remove and portage a BOB trailer. Alternatively, a cyclist could ride TransCanada Highway 16, which has wide, bike-friendly shoulders, all the way to Hinton. Just south of Hinton you are presented with an optional route with the Cadomin Alternate. This option avoids Hinton and its services, but you will be rewarded with a route that puts you right into the Rocky Mountains and passes by the historical coal mining town of Cadomin. Whether you choose to stay on the main route through Hinton or follow the Cadomin Alternate you will soon begin heading generally southward, the route from this point to Canmore will look like a saw blade on the elevation profile as you climb and descend over many small passes and drop down through many watershed valleys. Resupply options between Hinton and Canmore are very limited and hours are sporadic for what few options you do have.

Camping options along this section are plentiful with numerous official campgrounds and many great areas for random camping. Be aware that certain official campgrounds along this section do have “no random camping” buffer zones around them that you are not permitted to camp in.

Riding conditions between TransCanada Hwy. 16 and PR 1A can vary significantly with time of year and weather conditions, as the majority is gravel forest service roads. Expect a mix of freshly graded, packed solid and washboarded sections. While this section is a major forest service road, the volume of traffic is generally low, but be aware of possible log hauling activities or oil and gas traffic.

Once you reach PR 1A you will ride a paved secondary highway into Canmore, be aware that there is a short section of this highway that has no shoulder and can be busy with traffic.

As you enter Canmore you are presented with another route option. Option 1 is to climb the spectacular but difficult (and often dusty and washboarded) Smith-Dorrien/Spray Lakes Rd. from Canmore to the Goat Creek trailhead. Option 2 has you following the paved Legacy Trail that connects Canmore to Banff.

From the bustling national park town of Banff, the Spray River West Trail – an old fire road, actually – whisks you into country possessing a very wild and remote feel. A climb up the Goat Creek Trail then takes you to the Smith-Dorrien/Spray Lakes Road, a primary and potentially dusty backcountry tourist route. From here riders have the option of using the main route that follows the unpaved road or the High Rockies Alternate. The singletrack High Rockies Trail (HRT) parallels the main route for 31.2 miles and ends at Lower Kananaskis Lake. There are numerous connection points from the main route to the HRT allowing riders to use a hybrid of the two routes if they choose. Note that travel along the HRT will be more slow-going than the main route. The terrain has more overall elevation change, and the trail is narrower (BOB trailers not recommended). There is also a scenic suspension bridge that provides a unique experience for those up for it, or trails can be used to bypass.The jaw-dropping scenery continues through Kananaskis Country and its Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. From there, a sustained climb up and over the Great Divide via a powerline route over Elk Pass delivers you to Elk Lakes Provincial Park. It’s a six-mile (9.6 km) ride from one trailhead to the other that would require more than 200 miles (322 km) of driving if you had to do it in a car, on roads!

Subsequently, you’ll continue on a dirt road to Round Prairie, where the route rolls onto the Elk Valley Trail (EVT), which it follows on-and-off through the ski-resort town of Fernie, continuing all the way to Elko. From Elko, a series of paved and gravel roads, one of which proffers a brief glimpse down on the immense Lake Koocanusa, wend their way to Grasmere. Then it’s a 7.5-mile (12 km) ride on the highway to the international border.

The recommended supplemental maps for this section include the Backroad Mapbooks volumes entitled “Canadian Rockies” and “Kootenay Rockies BC.” They can be ordered at www.backroadmapbooks.com or by calling (604) 521-6277.

In the Canadian Rockies, the best time to plan for a mountain bike tour is that sweet spot after the snow has melted up high, but before wildfire season begins in earnest. This typically means sometime between late June and late July. If you’re planning your trip six months in advance, shoot for this window. Concerning the other end of the cycling season in Alberta and British Columbia, plan to be off the route by late October.

Regardless of when you strike out or how long you intend to be out, pack along raingear and cold-weather clothing. Snow or cold rain is possible any day of the year at some of the elevations encountered, and hypothermia is an ever-present possibility. Also remain vigilant of the fact that this is bear country, so carefully review the information detailed under “Remote Riding Conditions.”

If you plan to enter Montana on the route from British Columbia (or vice versa), know that all U.S. citizens crossing the U.S.-Canadian border in either direction need one of the following: a passport, a U.S. Passport Card, an Enhanced Driver’s License (EDL), or a NEXUS card. Visitors who are not U.S. or Canadian citizens will also need a visa. Visa requirements vary from country to country, so check for specifics at advcy.link/visaUSCanada .

Those younger than 18: For entering Canada or the U.S., if you are not traveling with your parents, it is advisable to carry a letter stating that they have granted you permission to visit.

Take along sufficient funds and plan to exchange currency at a bank, since stores or restaurants often don’t give the full exchange rate. Canadian Customs will allow you to carry a two-day supply of food into Canada duty-free. You may find U.S. Customs less relaxed about the transportation of food across the border. Also, if you are carrying prescription drugs, keep them in the original container from your pharmacist.

For other questions pertaining to crossing the international border, call 406-889-3865 (Port of Roosville, MT); or 604-535-5450 (British Columbia).

Cadomin Alternate

Avoids the unpaved, remote Robb Rd. and provides access to services in the small town of Cadomin along Forestry Trunk Rd./PR 40.

High Rockies Alternate

Singletrack trail alternative to the potentially dusty and washboarded Smith-Dorrien/Spray Lakes Rd.

Flathead Alternate

A wilder option through the “Serengeti of North America”. Includes the notorious ascent (southbound) of “The Wall” out of the Wigwam River drainage. Services are extremely limited.

Canmore Cutoff

A shortcut from Canmore to Goat Creek, skipping the town of Banff.

Updated: May 31, 2023

Alert: Active Logging Notice

This section of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route traverses the heavily timbered mountains and historic mining regions lying between the Montana-British Columbia border and the Montana state capital city of Helena. For purposes of acquiring the recommended supplemental maps, note that the section traverses four national forests. They are the Kootenai National Forest (406-293-6211), the Flathead National Forest (406-758-5208), the Lolo National Forest (406-677-2233), and the Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest (406-449-5201). You may obtain the forest visitor maps for these at the individual forest offices or by visiting advcy.link/NFmaps or calling 971-263-3149.

In the Northern Rockies, the best time to plan for a mountain bike tour is that sweet spot after the snow has melted up high, but before wildfire season begins in earnest. This typically means sometime between late June and late July. If you’re planning your trip six months in advance, shoot for this window. Concerning the other end of the cycling season in Montana, plan to be off the route by late October. Snow can start flying as early as late September.

If you plan to enter Montana on the route from British Columbia (or vice versa), know that all U.S. citizens crossing the U.S.-Canadian border in either direction need one of the following: a passport, a U.S. Passport Card, an Enhanced Driver’s License (EDL), or a NEXUS card. Visitors who are not U.S. or Canadian citizens will also need a visa. Visa requirements vary from country to country, so begin your search for specifics at www.cbp.gov .

Those younger than 18: For entering Canada, if you are not traveling with your parents, it is advisable to carry a letter stating that they have granted you permission to visit.

In 2018, a spur route was added from Seeley Lake to Adventure Cycling’s hometown of Missoula. At just a hair over 65 miles, this is a very challenging route through a maze of steep terrain on a mix of surfaces including overgrown old logging roads and singletrack trail. The route is devoid of signage much of the way. While riding, proper attention should be paid to the maps. In addition, we heartily recommend using the Missoula Spur digital route data or our mobile app to zoom in and get the finer route details that aren’t immediately apparent at our map scale.

Public Lands and Camping

The route often travels on public land administered by a variety of federal agencies such as USFS, BLM, and COE as well as state lands managers. There are an abundance of established public campgrounds along the route. The amenities of these campgrounds range from reservable sites with RV hookups and showers, to first-come-first-serve sites with fire rings and pit toilets. Campgrounds are open seasonally and open/close dates will vary. Contact Ranger Districts to confirm status, especially in the shoulder season. To make reservations or get more information on individual US Federal campgrounds, call 877-444-6777 or visit www.recreation.gov .

In addition to established campgrounds, it is legal to camp on USFS or BLM land following the guidelines found here: advcy.link/dispersecamp .

The USFS and BLM also maintain and rent a number of cabins. Some of these are winter only rentals. Reservations are required. Many of these cabins are in high demand and booked many months, up to a year, in advance. To get more information and to reserve a cabin, guard station, or lookout tower, visit www.recreation.gov .

Remote Riding Conditions

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route is a circuitous, madly meandering path, neither the shortest way from point A to point B, nor designed for those in a hurry to “get there.”

Many wild, remote stretches exist along the route that are not elaborated on here. High temperatures, lofty elevations, wild animals, inclement weather (including lightning storms, snowstorms, and extremely strong winds), wildfires, and other potential hazards are plentiful. Understand in advance how to prepare for and cope with them.

Piped water sources tend to be limited, so replenish your supplies whenever the opportunity presents itself. A high-quality water treatment setup should be on your equipment list. Plenty of surface water can be found along the route, but it should be ingested only after running it through a good water filter or using a chemical treatment.

Pack along bug repellent, sunscreen, and a first-aid kit. Carry bicycle tools, a tire pump, and spare tubes. Be prepared for any possibility.

Most of the route is in bear country; both grizzly and black bear north of Pinedale, Wyoming, and black bear only south of there. You should carry bear deterrent spray, available at outdoor gear shops in the larger towns along the route, and become familiar with its safe and proper use. Always be bear-aware, and follow these rules when camping (these will help ward of other unwanted visitors, such as raccoons and, at the very southern reaches of the route, javelina): • Store all food, garbage, and other attractants in a bear-resistant manner, well away from your tent. This can include hanging them in a stuff sack from rope slung over a high, isolated tree branch, or storing them in a bear-proof container provided at campgrounds. • Attractants such as food leftovers, fish entrails, and bacon grease should not be buried or burned in campfires. Leftover food and waste should be placed in a sealed bag or container and packed out with garbage. If leftover food or other attractants must be burned, do so in a contained cookstove or in an appropriate container over a campfire, then pack out the ash.

We discourage you from attempting to ride this route solo; in fact, a minimum group size of three is strongly recommended. If a rider is debilitated in the backcountry, you will want to have at least one person to stay with the injured/sick rider, and another to go for help. Most backcountry travelers now carry cell phones in hopes that they will be of use in an emergency situation – but be aware that reception is very spotty along much of the route.

While signs are sometimes referred to in the narratives, don’t count on them actually being present when you arrive at the designated spot. Signage disappears or changes more frequently than we might like. (And please alert us when you encounter missing signs so we can make the appropriate updates to aid future riders.)

Particularly in dry summers, portions of the route can become quite washboarded, making for uncomfortable riding conditions. In other places, the route is very rocky. How to prepare for such rugged conditions is each rider’s choice. Some go with fully suspended bicycles; others with a bike featuring a front shock only. Still others ride unsuspended bikes, counting on specialized frame features (such as the vibration reduction system built into the Salsa Cutthroat bicycle), shock-absorbing seatposts (like the Cane Creek Thudbuster,) and/or soft-riding tires pushing five inches in width (as in fat bikes) to soak up the shock. Some particularly hardy riders simply grin and bear it, with no shock-absorption features or add-ons on their unsuspended mountain or cyclocross bikes. (There are also riders who’ve done the route aboard fixed gear single-speeds; so, yes, there are masochists among us.)

Fifteen or twenty years ago, the outfit of choice for hauling gear on the Great Divide was most commonly a trailer, such as a B.O.B. (Beast of Burden). In the meantime, more and more riders have moved over to panniers or bikepacking setups, which include a creatively designed array of frame bags, handlebar packs, seat bags, and more. (To review a few of the solutions, go to the Cycling Equipment page in the Cyclosource section of adventurecycling.org , then filter by “Bikepacking.”)

Where designated campgrounds exist along the route, they are depicted on the map with a symbol, as are recommended campgrounds lying off the route. Sites in developed Forest Service campgrounds typically cost from $8 to $15. In general on Forest Service and BLM lands it is permissible to camp anywhere unless it is signed to the contrary. So, much of the time you will find yourself camping at informal, “dispersed” sites, which are free.

For many years, we advised riders to tackle the route only in a north-to-south direction, believing that this would provide a better window of opportunity in terms of weather and snow conditions. However, numerous individuals have since successfully ridden the route going from south to north, which is why we have taken the step of providing narratives for both directions of travel. Just be aware of these generalities: high country snow can be a barrier to travel too early in the season, even as far south as northern New Mexico; monsoonal rains (roughly July through September) can make portions of the route, especially in New Mexico, temporarily impassable; and anyone who successfully predicts the weather long-term along the Continental Divide is either lucky or a soothsayer.

And then there’s wildfire, which might be considered the polar opposite of a rainstorm (although they’re often ignited by lightning associated with thunderstorms). Wildfire can and has closed the route, at one time or another, in every state and province visited by the Great Divide. Each year is unique, obviously, so we advise that you regularly check current wildfire status by visiting the website of the National Interagency Fire Center, advcy.link/fireinfo , or by phoning them at 208-387-5050.

Due to the remote nature of this route we have developed a list of shuttle options for cyclists to get to and leave from the route. Some of these options are commercial operations, some are individuals that saw a need over the years and offer their services. The list: advcy.link/GDshuttle .

Keep in mind and follow these simple rules for trail etiquette. See the International Mountain Bike Association (IMBA) Rules of the Trail, advcy.link/IMBArules .

Here it is in a nutshell: In addition to having stout lungs and strong legs, to ride the entire Great Divide within a planned timeframe you’ll need to have on your side a little luck with the weather and other environmental conditions.

Good luck, and have fun; go easy on the land and be good to other backcountry travelers, whether they’re in a four-wheel-drive vehicle or on foot, trailbike, or horseback. Give us a call with your feedback, and don’t get too lost!

Missoula Spur

Rigorous ride through lands recently opened to public recreation after years of logging. Remote and steep, with some technical singletrack riding.

Rimini Alternate

16 miles shorter and avoids Helena. This alternate requires careful planning as services are very limited and road surfaces are rough.

Updated: Jan 31, 2023

This section of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route leads from Helena, Montana, to Colter Bay, Wyoming, by way of historic mining regions, the sprawling ranchlands of southwest Montana, and one of the crown jewels of our National Park System. The route also passes through the Redrock Lakes National Wildlife Refuge and incorporates the short, 72-mile section of the route claimed by Idaho.

The recommended supplemental maps for this section include the visitor maps for these national forests: Helena-Lewis and Clark National Forest (406-449-5201), Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest (406-683-3900), and Caribou-Targhee National Forest (208-524-7500). You can purchase them at the individual forest offices or by visiting advcy.link/NFmaps or calling 971-263-3149.

13.2 of Idaho’s 75.9 miles are on a rail-trail conversion following the route of the old Oregon Short Line, which was responsible for delivering turn-of-the century tourists to Yellowstone National Park. The northern portion of this rail-trail is very bumpy and runs through soft volcanic soils that can make riding a challenge, so you might want to consider taking the Fish Creek Alternate route shown on the map. The riding on the southern portion is smoother. Also, note that Mack’s Inn (slightly off route) has the only well-stocked grocery between Butte and Colter Bay Village. The route then enters Wyoming, cutting between Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks on the relatively little-traveled Reclamation Road, also known as the Ashton-Flagg Road and/or Grassy Lake Road.

In the Northern Rockies, the best time to plan for a mountain bike tour is that sweet spot after the snow has melted up high, but before wildfire season begins in earnest. This typically means sometime between late June and late July. If you’re planning your trip six months in advance, shoot for this window. Concerning the other end of the cycling season, plan to be off the route by late October. Snow can start flying as early as late September.

We ask that all riders follow the International Mountain Biking Association’s Rules of the Trail: advcy.link/IMBArules .

Finally, you are advised to purchase and pack along the book Cycling the Great Divide (available through Adventure Cycling Association). The guidebook contains a wealth of information on history, geology, and natural history that will enrich your experience as you go.

Piped water sources tend to be limited, so replenish your supplies whenever the opportunity presents itself. A high-quality water treatment setup should be on your equipment list. Plenty of surface water can be found along much of the route, but it should be ingested only after running it through a good water filter or using a chemical treatment.

Most of the route is in bear country; both grizzly and black bear north of Pinedale, Wyoming, and black bear only south of there. You should carry bear repellent spray, available at outdoor gear shops in the larger towns along the route, and become familiar with its safe and proper use. Always be bear-aware, and follow these rules when camping (these will also help ward of other unwanted visitors, such as raccoons and, at the very southern reaches of the route, javelina):

• Store all food, garbage, and other attractants in a bear-resistant manner, well away from your tent. This can include hanging them in a stuff sack from rope slung over a high, isolated tree branch, or storing them in a bear-proof container provided at campgrounds.
• Attractants such as food leftovers, fish entrails, and bacon grease should not be buried or burned in campfires. Leftover food and waste should be placed in a sealed bag or container and packed out with garbage. If leftover food or other attractants must be burned, do so in a contained cookstove or in an appropriate container over a campfire, then pack out the ash.

Due to the remote nature of this route we have developed a list of shuttle options for cyclists to get to and leave from the route. Some of these options are commercial operations, some are individuals that saw a need over the years and offer their services. The list may be found here: advcy.link/GDshuttle .

Boulder Alternate

7.1 miles longer and follows I-15. This alternate avoids some of the most challenging terrain along the route. There is a climb/descent between Boulder and Jefferson City.

Divide Alternate

2.2 miles shorter and entirely on pavement. This alternate avoids the legendary Fleecer Ridge.

Fish Creek Alternate

6 miles longer, slightly more scenic and, though sandy in areas, it avoids the EXTREMELY soft volcanic soils of the Yellowstone Branch Line Trail. There is no water along the alternate.

Updated: Sep 10, 2021

This section of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route begins in the magnificent Teton country and winds its way up and over a couple of high Continental Divide crossings before skirting the west slope of the Wind River Mountains en route to historic South Pass City. From there, the route drops into the Great Divide Basin on its way to Rawlins.

The recommended supplemental maps for this section include the visitor maps for these national forests and ranger districts: Bridger-Teton National Forest, Buffalo and Jackson Ranger Districts (307-739-5500); Shoshone National Forest, North Half and South Half (307-527-6241); and Bridger-Teton National Forest, Pinedale Ranger District (307-367-4326). You can purchase them at the individual forest offices or by visiting advcy.link/NFmaps . The route also crosses the lands of several BLM districts, so you may want to obtain the BLM 1:100,000 metric topographic maps for Pinedale, Farson, South Pass, Baroil, and Rawlins (307-328-4200).

More so than on any other portion of the route north of New Mexico, finding drinking water can be problematic between Pinedale and Rawlins. Great Divide veterans recommend stocking up in Pinedale (or Rawlins for northbound riders) and carrying at least three to four gallons per person – at a weight of 25 to 33 pounds – for the long, typically two-day ride. (See the narrative for more information on the distances between permanent water sources.)

The terrain changes dramatically over the course of these 365.5 miles between Colter Bay and Rawlins: from lofty mountain meadows, to sagebrush-covered cattle and pronghorn country, to high, dry desert that’s spectacular in its own right. While in some years it would be feasible to ride parts of this route in May, late spring storms over the high desert can be fierce, so it’s not recommended that you do so. Summer can bring exceptionally hot temperatures and strong winds. Regardless of when you strike out or how long you intend to be out, pack along raingear and cold-weather clothing.

Most of the route is in bear country; both grizzly and black bear north of Pinedale, Wyoming, and black bear only south of there. You should carry bear deterrent spray, available at outdoor gear shops in the larger towns along the route, and become familiar with its safe and proper use. Always be bear-aware, and follow these rules when camping (these will help ward of other unwanted visitors, such as raccoons and, at the very southern reaches of the route, javelina):

• Store all food, garbage, and other attractants in a bear-resistant manner, well away from your tent. This can include hanging them in a stuff sack from rope slung over a high, isolated tree branch, or storing them in a bear-proof container provided at campgrounds.

• Attractants such as food leftovers, fish entrails, and bacon grease should not be buried or burned in campfires. Leftover food and waste should be placed in a sealed bag or container and packed out with garbage. If leftover food or other attractants must be burned, do so in a contained cookstove or in an appropriate container over a campfire, then pack out the ash.

Fifteen or twenty years ago, the outfit of choice for hauling gear on the Great Divide was most commonly a trailer, such as a B.O.B. (Beast of Burden). In the meantime, more and more riders have moved over to panniers or bikepacking setups, which include a creatively designed array of frame bags, handlebar packs, seat bags, and more. (To review a few of the solutions, go to the Cycling Equipment page in the Cyclosource section of adventurecycling.org, then filter by “Bikepacking.”)

Where designated campgrounds exist along the route, they are depicted on the map with a symbol, as are recommended campgrounds lying off the route. Sites in developed Forest Service campgrounds typically cost from $8 to $15. In general on Forest Service and BLM lands it is permissible to camp anywhere unless it is signed to the contrary. So, much of the time you will be camping at informal, “dispersed” sites, which are free.

Jackson Spur

A scenic spur along the base of the Tetons to the town of Jackson.

Wind River Alternate

4.1 miles shorter and includes 7.9 miles of pavement. If you need services in Dubois, use this alternate.

Updated: Apr 4, 2023

This section of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route begins in Rawlins, Wyoming. South of that windy, rough-hewn Wyoming community the high desert rises to meet the even higher Sierra Madre Range, leading the way into Colorado and Steamboat Springs, the first in a string of ski towns visited. After following the paved Blue River trail system through bustling Summit County and the town of Breckenridge, the route crosses the Continental Divide at Boreas Pass and descends into the broad, windswept basin known as South Park. South of the small town of Hartsel it climbs back into the mountains, then drops into the high-valley town of Salida.

The recommended supplemental maps for this section include the visitor maps for these national forests: Medicine Bow-Routt National Forest (970-870-2299), Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests (970-295-6600), and the Pike and San Isabel National Forests (719-553-1400). You can purchase them at the individual forest offices or by visiting advcy.link/NFmaps or calling 971-263-3149.

June can be a cold month at the higher elevations of Colorado, so we recommend not attempting to ride this section prior to early July. Due to high-country snowpack, some portions are not even passable in a typical year until that time. Regarding the other end of the cycling season, plan to be off the trail by mid-October at the latest. Regardless of when you strike out or how long you intend to be out, pack along raingear and cold-weather clothing. Snow or cold rain is possible any day of the year at some of the elevations encountered, and hypothermia is an ever-present possibility. Also be aware that after October 1, many private and USFS campgrounds close or have no water available. Call ahead to verify the situation if you are cycling after this date.

Fifteen or twenty years ago, the outfit of choice for hauling gear on the Great Divide was most commonly a trailer, such as a B.O.B. (Beast of Burden). In the meantime, more and more riders have moved over to panniers or bikepacking setups, which include a creatively designed array of frame bags, handlebar packs, seat bags, and more. (To review a few of the solutions, go to the Cycling Equipment page in the Cyclosource section of adventurecycling.org, then filter by “Bikepacking.”) Where designated campgrounds exist along the route, they are depicted on the map with a symbol, as are recommended campgrounds lying off the route. Sites in developed Forest Service campgrounds typically cost from $8 to $15. In general on Forest Service and BLM lands it is permissible to camp anywhere unless it is signed to the contrary. So, much of the time you will find yourself camping at informal, “dispersed” sites, which are free.

And then there’s wildfire, which might be considered the polar opposite of a rainstorm (although they’re often ignited by lightning associated with thunderstorms). Wildfire can and has closed the route, at one time or another, in every state and province visited by the Great Divide. Each year is unique, obviously, so we advise that you regularly check current wildfire status by visiting the website of the National Interagency Fire Center,  advcy.link/fireinfo , or by phoning them at 208-387-5050.

Columbine Alternate

4.1 miles shorter, similar traffic volume on wider, potentially dustier road. Still very beautiful.

Updated: Jan 11, 2023

This section of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route leads from Salida, Colorado, to the Conejos River outpost of Platoro, then onward into New Mexico, the aptly nicknamed “Land of Enchantment.” Here it traverses the remote, high-elevation Tusas Mountains before passing through three New Mexico villages straight out of Old Mexico: Cañon Plaza, Vallecitos, and El Rito. South of Abiquiu, a tough, 25-mile climb up Polvadera Mesa leads into the heavily forested Jemez Mountains, where elk and black bear are common residents. South of the town of Cuba the route winds through the carved maze of eroded terrain that separates Mesa Chivato and Chaco Mesa. From there it traverses the northwest flank of the San Mateo Mountains before dropping into the sprawling community of Grants.

The recommended supplemental maps for this section include the visitor maps for these national forests: Gunnison National Forest (970-874-6600), Rio Grande National Forest (719-852-5941), Carson National Forest (575-758-6200), Santa Fe National Forest (505-438-5300), and Cibola National Forest – Mt. Taylor Ranger District (505-287-8833). You can purchase them at the individual forest offices or by visiting advcy.link/NFmaps . Also recommended is the BLM 1:100,000-scale topographic map of Chaco Mesa (505-438-7542).

June can be a cold month at the high elevations of southern Colorado and northern New Mexico, so we recommend that you not attempt to ride this section prior to early July. The highest portions may not be entirely free of snow until that time, anyway. Regarding the other end of the cycling season, plan to be off the trail by mid-October at the latest. Regardless of when you leave or how long you intend to be out, pack along raingear and cold-weather clothing, because strong winds, cold rain, and even snow are possible throughout the riding season. After October 1, many private and USFS campgrounds close or have no water available. Call ahead to verify the situation if you’ll be cycling after this date.

Between Abiquiu and Cuba, the road surface is very rocky and sandy. Full suspension is recommended. Otherwise, you may want to detour onto SR 96.

Unsurfaced roads – particularly in the Tusas Mountains of New Mexico and those between Cuba and Grants – may be impassable when wet, due to the nature of the soils. In the case of summer thundershowers the roads will typically dry out within a few hours after the rain stops. However, if you arrive during a late-summer period of monsoonal rains, which can keep things muddy for days at a time, you may be forced to follow the Chaco Alternate.

This paved alternate provides access to Chaco Culture National Historical Park via mostly dirt roads that may be impassable in inclement weather. The park has camping, but no other services; water is available at the visitor center (505-786-7014 ext. 221). The campground is situated approximately 33 miles from Pueblo Pintado or 29 miles from White Horse, both of which lie along the alternate route. See the park website for directions and current conditions: www.nps.gov/chcu .

Drinking water is also a concern on the stretch between Cuba and Grants: From Cuba to Ojo Frio Spring the distance is 47 miles, and from Ojo Frio to San Mateo Spring it is another 50 miles. So stock up whenever you can!

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route is a circuitous, madly meandering path, neither the shortest way from point A to point B, nor designed for those in a hurry to “get there.”

Fifteen or twenty years ago, the outfit of choice for hauling gear on the Great Divide was most commonly a trailer, such as a B.O.B. (Beast of Burden). In the meantime, more and more riders have moved over to panniers or bikepacking setups, which include a creatively designed array of frame bags, handlebar packs, seat bags, and more. (To review a few of the solutions, go to the Cycling Equipment page in the Cyclosource section of adventurecycling.org/store , then filter by “Bikepacking.”)

Chaco Alternate

5.8 miles shorter, and paved the entire way. Use this if you’re traveling during the late-summer monsoonal rain season or going to Chaco Culture National Historical Park.

Updated: Jun 6, 2023

Once the southbound rider arrives in Grants, most of the route’s high mountain country is in his rear-view mirror (while it’s just barely started for the northbound!). South of the impressive badlands terrain of El Malpais National Monument the route visits Pie Town, famous for its… you guessed it. After skirting the barren Plains of San Agustin, then climbing across the exceptionally rugged mountains of the Gila National Forest – where each steep descent is followed by an equally steep climb – the route pulls into Silver City. Here the mountains end and the desert begins, surrounding you all the way to the door to Old Mexico.

The recommended supplemental map for this section includes that of the Gila National Forest (575-388-8201). You may obtain it by calling that number or by visiting nationalforestmapstore.com or calling 406-329-3024.

Unsurfaced roads – particularly those situated between El Malpais National Monument and the Gila National Forest’s Beaverhead Work Center – may be impassable when wet, due to the nature of the soils. In the case of summer thundershowers the roads will typically dry out within a few hours after the rain stops, so it will simply be a matter of sitting out the storm and its aftermath. However, if you arrive during a late-summer period of monsoonal rains, which can keep things soaking wet for days at a time, you may be forced to follow an alternative paved route.

Drinking water is also a concern on this stretch: South of Grants, the distance from the Bandera Ice Caves, where water is available, to Pie Town is 67 miles. However, the route does occasionally pass windmills which, when operating, feed water into stock tanks. The water is generally potable, but as a precaution it should be filtered. (Be careful not to keep cattle away from the tanks.) Also be aware that streams mentioned on the map may be dry. Your policy should be to pack along the minimum amount of water you think you’ll need for the 47- to 67-mile stretches, and refill if and when you encounter bonus water sources.

The northern parts of this section are generally passable from March through November. The final stretch from Silver City to Antelope Wells is open throughout the year, although late spring and early summer bring extremely high temperatures. Regardless of when you strike out or how long you intend to be out, pack along raingear and cold-weather clothing, because strong winds and cold rain are possible throughout the riding season.

An optional end to your ride may be made via the 47-mile Columbus Alternate from Hachita to the international border just south of Columbus. Regardless of which endpoint you choose, it’s advisable to check in advance with the U.S. Department of State for travel advisories regarding the border at travel.state.gov/ .

Most of the route is in bear country; both grizzly and black bear north of Pinedale, Wyoming, and black bear only south of there. You should carry bear repellent spray, available at outdoor gear shops in the larger towns along the route, and become familiar with its safe and proper use. Always be bear-aware, and follow these rules when camping (these will help ward of other unwanted visitors, such as raccoons and, at the very southern reaches of the route, javelina):

CDT Alternate

6.7 miles shorter than the main route; this alternate use 6 miles of the narrow and challenging Continental Divide Trail. Good technical riding skills are necessary here.

Columbus Alternate

An optional route to the border that includes the all-service town of Columbus and Pancho Villa State Park.

Updates to Recently Released Maps

If you are planning a bike tour, be sure to get the most recent map updates and corrections for your route by selecting the route, and the appropriate section(s), from the drop-down menu below.

Over time maps become less useful because things change. Every year Adventure Cycling’s Routes and Mapping Department create map updates and corrections for every map in the Adventure Cycling Route Network, which now totals 52,047 miles. With the help of touring cyclists like you, we receive updates on routing, services, camping, and contact information. Until we can reprint the map with the new information, we verify the suggested changes and publish corrections and updates here on our website.

PLEASE NOTE: Covid has been particularly hard on the small businesses along our routes. While we do our best to keep the maps and these online updates current, you may encounter more closed businesses and longer stretches with limited or no services.

Refer to these updates for the most current information we have and submit reports of changes to the Route Feedback Form for the cyclists coming after you.

NOTE: Map updates and corrections only pertain to long term changes and updates. For short term road closures, please see the Adventure Cycling’s Routes Temporary Road Closures discussion in our Forums.

How to Ride the GDMBR (Great Divide Mountain Bike Route) or Race the Tour Divide on the Course

If you like bikes and watch cycling stuff on YouTube, you’re bound to stumble across content from Ryan Van Duzer.

It was late one night and I saw a video about riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR) “Solo” in 2020. It was a long video at just over an hour. But I watched it all.

On a work night.

That was dumb. But it was so worth it. 

The scenery was epic. The course was well planned, supported and populated where it was needed. And it seemed really quiet. 

That was appealing. I’ve added this ride, and maybe the race, to my bucket list.

Let’s learn more.

How Do You Race the GDMBR & Who Can Race It?

The GDMBR does have a race associated with it, called the Tour Divide. The Tour Divide is an event that takes place annually and follows a route roughly the same as the GDMBR itself, beginning in Banff, Alberta, Canada, and finishing in Antelope Wells, New Mexico, where the US/Mexico border is.

If you’re interested in racing or riding this route, there are few logistics to familiarize yourself with first!

Do You Have to Qualify?

There are no qualification requirements for the Tour Divide, as it is a standalone race. Anyone can participate in the race, so long as they do so within the two weeks that the race takes place.

Who Controls the Race?

Regarding who controls the race, the answer is yourself because it is not an organized race. This means that aside from the event’s two-week duration, all the management is in your hands, which gives you a lot more freedom than some other races.

You can go at your own pace to reach the finish line, so long as you arrive within the allotted period.

Can Anyone Ride the Route?

Anyone can ride the GDMBR at any time or participate in the Tour Divide when it happens. As mentioned previously, there are no qualification requirements. As long as you have a bike and some way of reaching the route, you can ride it.

Of course, you’re advised to do so only if you think you can handle it, as the route is no pushover even for experienced riders due to its extreme length.

Do You Have to Pay (Entry Fees)?

There are no entry fees for the GDMBR or the Tour Divide race. Both are free. However, this does not mean that you won’t have to spend a decent amount of money.

Keep in mind that the route begins in the north and ends in the south of the country. The travel expenses to reach the route will vary depending on where you live.

There’s also the cost of gear and supplies (which I will get into later) that you will need to consider ahead of time. As such, you might want to map out some kind of budget for the ride.

Before You Race

Now that you know how you race the GDMBR and who can race it, let’s explore some additional preparation steps.

Do Your Homework!

Whether you race in the Tour Divide or ride the GDMBR at your own pace, 70% of the journey comes before starting the actual ride.

Preparation is a part of any ride, but its importance is far more significant when riding the GDMBR because of the sheer distance you will be traveling. The route is 3,087 miles from start to finish, 90% unpaved, and has large amounts of changing elevations along the way.

Most maps show it has over 200,000 feet of elevation!

Those aspects already make for a challenging route, to say the least, and when you add all types of different weather conditions on top of them, you’ve got yourself one wildly unpredictable ride ahead.

Still, being as prepared as possible will pay off in the long run, so I’ll cover the most important things you’ll want to do before you set out on the ride.

Consider Taking More or Less

The distance of the GDMBR is naturally going to leave you exposed to a whole host of conditions that you will need to contend with. 

For example, prepare for extreme heat since the race typically takes place in early June. You won’t just experience one type of heat either. Since the route travels from north to south, you’ll likely ride through areas of dry heat and humid heat.

In contrast, going during a colder month of the year means that freezing temperatures may be one of your primary concerns.

Regardless of what weather winds up being a factor in your ride, you’re going to have to seriously consider what to bring.

A happy medium is essential to avoid overpacking and making the course more difficult for yourself.

So, How Do You Decide What’s Necessary and What’s Not?

Start with the essentials: toiletries, electronics, food/utensils, drinks, water supply, sleeping gear, rations, etc.

Even if you don’t wind up using them all, having them is a brilliant idea as it is better to be over-prepared than under-prepared.

Next, consider what weather you’ll be dealing with and your level of tolerance for it.

Some riders can handle being chilly for long periods while riding. If you’re the same way and plan on riding the GDMBR when it’s cold, then opt for multiple layers instead of one heavy coat.

In general, you should pick all your clothing based on comfort and effectiveness. Also, be sure to bring at least a few extra shirts, pants, and underwear since you never know if or when you’ll need a spare change of clothes.

Plus, your bike is your only mode of transportation, so you want to have the tools on hand to fix any problem that might occur.

Additionally, knowing where you will be able to resupply on the route will play a significant role in how difficult things will be as the ride progresses. You can find what kinds of resources you’ll have access to along the way in the numerous maps provided by the Adventure Cycling Association .

Taking the time to map out where you can acquire supplies during the route in advance is a time-consuming yet fantastic idea. It will allow you to adjust how many items you pack initially. It’ll also let you know how long you will be riding before you get a chance to resupply your inventory.

Ensure Everything Works

Be it gear or the bike itself, make sure everything you plan to pack is in good working condition.

For instance, consider getting a new pump if your current one is old or unreliable. It can be the same type of pump or a different model. The main concern is simply having equipment you can depend on for the 14 or so days you’ll be riding.

Again, there are multiple points along the GMBDR where you can resupply. However, if something vital breaks before reaching your planned pitstop location, you will be out of luck.

About The Author

You Might Also Like:

How to race the raam – is riding the race across america route on your list, 15 cool facts about the race across america (raam).

Bikepacking

My Great Divide Bikepacking Gear List: What Worked & What Didn’t

So you’re about to get into the nitty gritty details of planning your dream trip on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Congratulations!

When it comes to big adventures, deciding to take the plunge is often half the battle. The GDMBR is an epic journey, and I think you’ll be really glad you decided to take it on.

Now, what on earth should you pack??

There are many different approaches to choosing gear for the GDMBR, and no one can give you the one perfect list. This post will give you my gear list, including what worked well and what I would change in hindsight.

This wasn’t my first rodeo, and I was pretty satisfied with my gear choices overall. My style tends toward moderately lightweight (I ran a bikepacking bag setup, no rack) but not too minimalist (I like hot meals, warm layers, and reading at camp). I appreciate good quality gear but don’t have money to burn, so most of my gear is carefully chosen and well-used.

It’s important to note that my Great Divide gear list is based on a touring pace ride that took over two months. If you’re not yet aware, the famous Tour Divide bikepacking race covers almost the same route as the GDMBR, but most racers aim to finish in under a month (or for the fastest folks, half that time!). Racers usually prioritize speed and a lightweight kit at the expense of some comfort, so keep this in mind if you’re looking at other gear lists.

Finally, I’ll underscore again how many ways there are to pack for a route like the GDMBR. I would never claim my way is best for everyone, but I do think it’s a solid setup that won’t steer anyone too far wrong. If you have questions, feel free to ask in the comments below.

More GDMBR Resources

GDMBR Planning, Logistics, and FAQs

• Alternate Routes on the GDMBR
• Summaries by section: New Mexico | Colorado | Wyoming & Idaho | Montana | Canada

Shop Bikepacking Resources

Bikepacker’s Companion eBook

Bikepacker’s Fix It Kit

Trip Planner Workbook and Templates

When you buy through affiliate links in this post, I may earn a small commission. Thanks for your support! I always offer unbiased opinions based on real experience from the road and trail. Learn more .

Ride Overview

To give context to the Great Divide gear list that follows, here are the basics of my experience on the GDMBR.

Dates : June 22 – August 26, 2021 (65 days, including 9 non-riding days for rest, visiting, and exploration)

Direction : Northbound! (the weird way)

Mood : Leisurely but efficient. Definitely touring, not racing. I’ve pushed myself hard on enough prior trips and wanted time for more relaxation and “type 1” fun this time around.

Load : Fairly typical long-distance bikepacking setup. No rack, but bikepacking bags stuffed to the gills. I estimate my fully loaded Fargo weighed around 55 lbs without much food or water.

Companions : Solo until Jackson, WY (about 1600 miles), then joined by my husband for the final 1100 miles. The best of both worlds! I love riding solo but a month is enough, and I’ve been wanting to share a long ride with him for years.

Bike and Parts

Let’s start with the most important part of a Great Divide bike route gear list: the bike, obviously!

Bike : Salsa Fargo with steel fork. I think the Fargo is a perfect bike for the GDMBR, at least unless you can afford a Cutthroat. It’s burly enough to handle occasional rough stuff, efficient enough for pavement, and perfect for the large chunk of gravel and dirt road in between. Read more: Review of my Salsa Fargo After 4500 Bikepacking Miles and Cutthroat vs. Fargo

Minor complaints: I could have used an even lower low gear for all those climbs (running the stock Fargo gearing of 38/24t in front and 10 speed 11-36t in back). The Avid BB7 brakes took a lot of fiddling to keep adjusted. I wouldn’t have minded magically reducing my bike weight by about 5 pounds.

Tires : Continental CrossKing ProTection 29×2.3″ tubeless. These worked great! I used one set for the entire 2700 miles and they still had life left to spare at the end. No issues and no punctures that didn’t immediately seal. The 2.3″ width was a good balance for me, but you could certainly go narrower or wider depending on your priorities. I absolutely recommend tubeless , especially in New Mexico.

Saddle : Brooks B17 Short Carved. This saddle has worked well for me in the past, but it caused issues on this trip and I’ve since retired it. Saddle choice is highly personal, so for help making your own decision see Brooks B17 Short vs Carved vs Standard and Comfortable Bike Seats for Women .

Pedals : Funn Mamba Single-Sided SPD. I highly recommend these for the Great Divide and bikepacking in general. On a long ride like the GDMBR there will be times you cannot clip in due to mud, snow, shoe issues, and all kinds of other fun surprises. The platforms on these pedals are big and stable, and there were times where I rode them unclipped for days.

• Guide to Choosing Bikepacking Pedals
• Funn Mamba Pedals: 7000 Mile Review
• Pedals and Shoes for Bikepacking – Is clipless worth it?

Here’s the stuff that carried all the other stuff.

Handlebars :

• Salsa EXP Anything Cradle + dry bag: held sleeping bag
• RockBros front pouch: held snacks and other small items. Bigger than the Salsa pouch and similar in size to a Revelate pouch.
• Tent strapped to front of dry bag using Voile straps

Seat bag : Revelate Viscacha 14L. Held electronics, toiletries, first aid, other miscellaneous items. Sandals and sometimes stove strapped to the outside.

Frame bag : Salsa EXP . Held 3 liter water bladder, some tools, spare tube.

Top tube bag : Moosetreks Gas Tank . Held sunscreen, lights, snacks, other small items.

Feed bags : Climbing chalk bags (these work great and are cheap!). Held snacks, sunscreen, bear spray when carried.

Front fork : Assortment of RockBros dry bags (2L and 5L) and Voile straps. Held clothes, food, and sleeping pad.

Down tube : Water bottle cage and tool pouch. My DIY tool pouch – a pencil case – did NOT work well once the zipper became covered in mud. I recommend this one from Blackburn which I discovered later.

Stuffable backpack : Not technically a bike bag, but this little backpack is a must-have for long bike trips. Fill it with food on your way from the grocery store to the motel, or fill it with water bottles to get you through a rare long dry stretch.

Other gizmos:

• Handlebar extender : I use this nifty thing to make more space for my bike computer and phone mount.
• Smartphone holder : This one has been quite stable and reliable, but I still put the phone in my pocket on rough sections just in case.

How did this all work? Pretty well. I have limited tire-to-bag clearance on my small 29er frame but this system is pretty dialed. I rarely have problems with tire rub if I pack properly.

I especially liked the flexibility of the big 5L dry bags on the front fork, which could expand or contract a lot to hold varying amounts of food or even, in one long dry stretch, water.

The biggest issue: with the dry bags on the front fork, the load is very front-heavy . I wouldn’t use this setup for prolonged technical riding, but it worked fine for gravel. The alternative would be to use a sturdy rear rack and small panniers or dry sacks, which I saw pretty often on the Divide.

Bike Tools and Spares

There are many bike shops along the GDMBR, and they’re generally great at getting thru-riders rolling again as quickly as possible. But you might be a few hundred miles from one when something goes wrong! Thus it’s important to carry a fairly comprehensive repair kit.

I discuss my repair kit in more detail here: Tools and Spares List for Bikepacking . Here’s a quick list of what I carried on the GDMBR, which I would categorize as a “standard” type of trip in that post.

• Multitool (bike): Park Tool IB-3
• Multitool (general): Leatherman PS . Mostly used for the pliers, screwdriver, and bottle opener.
• Presta-Schrader valve adapter – not used, but potentially essential in case of a broken pump
• Chain lube and rag – used often and replenished along the way
• Tire levers – not used
• Tire boots – not used
• Spare tube (1 per rider) and patch kit – not used
• Tubeless plug kit, tiny tube of superglue – not used
• Spare tubeless valve stem – not used
• Extra sealant, between 2-4 oz per rider – used and replenished along the way
• Small section of chain and several quick links – not used, but I did buy and install an entire new chain in Jackson
• Quick link pliers by Wolf Tooth – used when replacing chain, and so handy when dealing with stuck master links.
• Blue threadlocker for loose bolts – not used
• Spare cleat and bolts (at least one set per rider) – I used one of the bolts to replace a lost one, and replaced my cleats when I replaced my shoes halfway through
• Spare brake and shift cable (one of each for two riders) – not used
• Spare brake pads – used and replaced several times!
• Spare derailleur hanger – not used (but has been needed in the past)
• A few zip ties and extra electrical tape – used the electrical tape to patch my handlebar tape

What kind of bike maintenance is needed on the GDMBR? If you’re lucky, simply change your chain and brake pads halfway through, replenish your chain lube supply a few times, top up your sealant once or twice, and you’ll be all set.

Depending on your setup, some people will need multiple sets of new brake pads and maybe new tires. You can likely buy these from bike shops along the way, though you might not get your first pick of brand or type.

And of course, if you’re unlucky, anything can happen… My husband somehow snapped his inner chainring in Montana and finished the ride on a haphazard 1×10 conversion!

Related : Essential Bike Repair Skills You Can Learn at Home

Sleep and Shelter

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route is a long journey through varied terrain and you WILL be camping at least some of the time, so a solid 3-season shelter and sleep system is a must.

What kind of temperatures are we talking about? In New Mexico in summer, nights can be hot. In Canada, or anywhere in the mountains really, nights can dip below freezing even in the summer. Rain is a certainty, and snow and hail can’t be ruled out. You’ll want a system that keeps you cozy enough in a bad mountain storm.

Sleeping bag : Enlightened Equipment 10 degree Convert : I am a cold sleeper, and this quilt (combined with a Hoodlum hood ) kept me plenty warm most nights on the Divide. In the far north as temperatures dropped I also slept in my down jacket.

Sleeping pad : Therm-a-Rest NeoAir X-Lite. I’ve been using this pad for 7 years and love its combination of light weight and relative comfort for side sleeping. But on this trip it finally developed a slow leak I couldn’t find. I replaced it halfway through with the women’s version which is slightly warmer and shorter – perfect for me. I expect this one to last at least another 7 years. (Update: Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite Women’s Review )

Pillow : Sea to Summit 8 Liter Dry Sack stuffed with odds and ends and wrapped with a Buff.

Tent(s): Because I rode solo for the first five weeks and then was joined by my husband for the last four weeks, we used two different tents. He brought our joint tent out with him to Jackson, and I mailed my solo tent home.

My solo tent : Big Sky Soul 1P . I’ve written about this little sanctuary many times before; it goes with me everywhere. It worked great for the GDMBR: super quick to set up, good in the rain, and freestanding so it can be pitched on pavement, rock, or anywhere else.

Our joint tent : Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL3 . One of the best pieces of advice I’ve heard from couples who take long adventures together: use a 3 person tent! When backpacking we don’t find it worth the weight, but on this bikepacking trip we absolutely did. The Copper Spur is functional, roomy, pretty lightweight, and mostly freestanding (except the vestibules). My husband carried the body and I carried the fly. See my review of the Copper Spur for more detail.

On the GDMBR and for long bikepacking trips in general, I always recommend a freestanding tent . I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve needed to pitch my tent on a hard surface: in the parking lot, on someone’s patio, inside an abandoned building, the list goes on… Stakes are fine for short predictable trips in the backcountry, but sooner or later you’ll be stuck with unstake-able ground.

I prefer a tent over a tarp or bivy on long trips, because I like to close myself off from the world if I’m camped in a public place like a campground or town park. Mosquitos are also a consideration on the Divide; you’ll want fully zippable bug netting.

Here we get to the meat of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route packing list: clothing! You’ll be spending a lot of hours in this stuff, so choose carefully.

In general, the GDMBR is perfect for a standard 3-season backcountry layering setup. I used mostly the same clothing system that I use for backpacking, with a few cycling-specific modifications.

Afternoon thunderstorms are common throughout the Rockies and temperatures can drop quite low, so a good rain setup and warm layers are critical.

Base (Usually Worn)

T-shirt : Icebreaker Merino Tech-Lite Tee . I love these shirts for their lightweight comfort and natural stink-resistance (so important for this kind of adventure). Only downsides: they wear out quickly and are not especially sun-protective. Mine was threadbare by the time I finished, and I sometimes got sunburnt through it.

Chamois shorts (2 pair) : very personal choice, but Louis Garneau Carbon 2 shorts work well for me. I tried to rinse and dry one pair while wearing the other, switching each day.

Baggy bike shorts : I wear these over my padded shorts, just personal preference. Club Ride Savvy shorts are my absolute favorite. Comfy and as stylish as baggy bike shorts can be.

Sports bra :  Patagonia Barely , very comfy (A cup) and stink-resistant.

Socks : 2 pair of Smartwool PhD hiking socks, plus 1 pair of thicker Darn Tough socks for sleeping

Sun Sleeves:  Outdoor Research  hiking sleeves stay up on my small arms better than most. These are made for hiking, not biking, but I use them for both. I roll up the hand portion around my wrist when wearing bike gloves.

Headband and neck gaiter : Buff and/or bandana. So useful for so many things: sun coverage, hair band, neck gaiter, towel, face covering, pillow case, etc.

Sunglasses : I’m currently liking these affordable  CastKing Hiwassee  polarized sunglasses. They’re unisex but somehow fit my small face (and my husband’s large face) just fine. I usually kill a pair (scratched or lost) on every long trip and these are cheap enough that it doesn’t matter.

Extras (Camp and Town)

Spare t-shirt , another Merino Tech-Lite Tee for backup and town days.

Running shorts : small and lightweight, for sleeping on warm nights or wearing on rest days

Panties: 2 pair for sleeping and town days. I like  these from REI and  these from Woolly Clothing.

Sports sandals : Not strictly essential since my bike shoes work for walking, but I like to bring these for camp shoes, town days, public showers, and a backup in case something happens to my bike shoes.

Warm and Dry

Tights : Columbia OmniHeat . I’ve used these for years and think they have an excellent warmth-to-weight ratio. Mostly worn for sleeping.

Long sleeve midlayer:  Icebreaker Merino 260 Half Zip . I layer this on for sleeping or riding in cold weather. It has a wide temperature range without feeling clammy, and critically the half zip fits over a bike helmet for quicker layer changes on the go.

Down jacket :  Arc’teryx Cerium LT. It was never cold enough on the Divide that I needed to ride in this (though I sometimes do in other places), but it was essential for camp and occasionally sleeping on cold nights. I’ve gone through a few and find the Cerium to be a good balance of packability and warmth.

Rain jacket : Arc’teryx  Beta AR . This is the burliest of my rain jacket options and I chose it for the GDMBR – a long trip in big mountains – because it’s impenetrable and relatively breathable. I love it ( see my review here ) but it’s pricey. I recommend the REI Stormbolt GTX as a more affordable 3 layer GORE-TEX jacket, or even the affordable Marmot PreCip for smaller budgets. Don’t forget to check for a helmet-compatible hood.

Rain pants : Mine (White Sierra Trabagon) have been discontinued, but they’re a relatively lightweight 2-layer pant. I wear them for warmth and wind protection in addition to rain.

Gloves: Pearl Izumi lobster gloves . I used these less than expected on the GDMBR, but it was a relatively warm summer and my leisurely pace meant I rarely rode in the chilliest hours of the day. My hands get cold easily and when I need to ride in cold temps these are essential.

Waterproof glove covers:   MLD eVENT rain mittens, to cover gloves in case of both cold and wet weather. Rarely used, but again, I had the luxury of mostly hunkering down in bad weather.

High-viz windbreaker vest : extra warmth and/or peace of mind in traffic. When not worn it was usually bungeed to my seat bag for extra visibility.

Cycling Accessories

Bike shoes: Pearl Izumi X-Alp Canyon are my favorite bikepacking shoes, and very comfy for walking and hike-a-bike. My only complaint: the bottoms aren’t very durable. I had to replace mine halfway through the GDMBR. More info: Pedals and Shoes for Bikepacking: Is clipless worth it?

Shoe covers : Not used, even though my feet did sometimes get cold in the rain. I just find these more trouble than they’re worth. Try a plastic bag between two pairs of socks as a lightweight alternative.

Bike gloves : Pearl Izumi Elite Gel

Helmet : Troy Lee Designs A1

Helmet mirror : Bike Peddler Take a Look visor mirror . I love this thing and always clip it on when riding in traffic. For anyone curious, it does actually work with the Da Brim.

Helmet brim : Da Brim Classic . I had mixed feelings about this. In hot and sunny New Mexico I loved it, but as I rode north I often found that the sunniest places were also the windiest. I eventually grew annoyed by the feeling of wind pulling on my helmet and mailed the brim home from Jackson.

That said, it works well and stays attached nicely, and really does help with sun exposure (which you’ll get a lot of on the Great Divide). I would suggest trying the smaller Sporty version if you’re on the fence.

Water availability varies along the Great Divide. In much of Canada, Montana, and Colorado it’s easy to find surface water multiple times per day. A few areas, in particular parts of New Mexico and Wyoming’s Great Basin, are much drier.

Water is often (not always) relatively clear, but should always be filtered. Cattle are everywhere on the GDMBR, even where you might not expect them.

I recommend around 3 liters of capacity for most of the route. In some areas you might rarely fill it all, carrying only 1-2 liters at a time.

You’ll also want the ability to add another 3 – 4 liters occasionally , probably only a handful of times. This doesn’t have to be fancy. Ways to expand your water capacity: buy disposable bottles; carry collapsible bottles or bladders, fill up the dirty bag from your water filter, and carry a small stuffable backpack to hold it all.

Here’s my GDMBR gear list related to water:

Water Treatment

Water filter : Sawyer Squeeze. This is a very popular filter and it works well. Make sure to backflush it regularly to keep flow rate high, and sleep with it in cold weather to protect it from freezing. For more options, see Water filters for Bikepacking and Touring .

Backflush syringe for Sawyer filter. You can also use certain water compatible water bottles, but the syringe is light and works well.

Gravity filter bag : CNOC Vecto 3L (28mm thread) , used as dirty bag in a gravity filter system and for extra water capacity as needed. Much better than the squeeze pouch that comes with the Sawyer filter!

Sawyer Fast Fill adapter kit , allows you to gravity filter directly from the Sawyer into a hydration bladder.

Chlorine dioxide : I carried a small number of Potable Aqua tablets as a temporary backup in case my filter failed. Never needed, but good to have.

Note on sharing a filter: When my husband joined in Jackson we considered each carrying our own filter. We ended up sharing one and it worked fine. We usually rode together and often filled up with potable water from campgrounds or stores, so we weren’t stopping to filter as often as we do on backpacking trips.

Water Containers

Hydration bladder with hose: Platypus 3 Liter Hoser , carried in my frame bag as my primary water container. I love the bladder but recommend replacing the bite valve with this one from Hydrapak that includes a shutoff valve and cover.

1 liter bottle : I carried this bottle in a cage under my down tube as extra capacity and to have a container for electrolyte drink separate from my pure water. The flip-up cover was essential for protecting the spout from mud, and it was one of few 1 liter bottles I found that’s skinny enough to fit in a standard water bottle cage (with extra strap for support).

Extra bottles : I carried two 1L Platypus SoftBottles for extra capacity.

Related : 9 Ways to Carry Water on a Bike

Food and Cooking

On the GDMBR food is available multiple times per day in some places, and once every 3-4 days in others, depending on the section and your pace. Carrying about two days of food is pretty common. Outside of larger towns it’s often convenience store and diner food, in other words, not the healthiest.

I / we carried a stove for the entire trip and enjoyed hot meals at camp, but it’s not mandatory. If you spend more nights in town (we camped as often as possible) and aren’t too fussy about eating cold food, you can get by without a stove.

For more help with your Great Divide food strategy, see my bikepacking food guide .

Here’s a list of my GDMBR gear related to food and cooking:

Ursack Major bear-resistant food bag : You will be camping in bear territory on the GDMBR, and properly hanging food is a lot harder than it sounds . In many places I failed to find any trees that would work for a proper bear hang. For the safety of your food and the bears, I recommend this bear-resistant bag that will help protect your food when a proper bear hang isn’t possible.

I carried my meals inside an Ursack inside a 5L dry sack on my front fork. At night I would remove it from the dry sack (allowing it to expand, making room for all the snacks I’d been carrying in my other bags) and tie it to a tree far from camp.

The capacity of a regular Ursack was fine for my southern solo section and the more populated areas of the north. But when two of us together needed food for more than a day or two, it was too small. In hindsight I wish we had each carried our own Ursack .

Odor-Proof Bags from Opsack (12″ x 20″) : Not sure how odor-proof these are in practice since they’re hard to zip, but they’ll prevent spilled food from making your food bag into a rodent buffet.

Paracord and carabiner  for hanging or otherwise securing the Ursack.

Stove : Jetboil MicroMo . Incredibly fuel-efficient and decently lightweight as a stove/pot combo, especially shared between two people (though I carried it solo too). Fuel canisters were easy enough to find at gear stores, hardware stores, hiker boxes, etc. The JetBoil is so efficient that I / we only needed three canisters total for the whole GDMBR.

Bowl : Sea to Summit collapsible mug . Very compact and handy. Paired with a DIY lid made from metallic bubble wrap to keep food warmer while rehydrating.

Spoon : Toaks Long titanium : Simple, lightweight, long enough to eat out of any container.

Cup : Snow Peak titanium mug . Light and very sturdy.

Bandana  for wiping out dishes and other miscellaneous needs.

Small knife : Kershaw Scallion , useful for cooking on trail and in town.

Flexible flask : Vapur 10oz , used to carry olive oil, or sometimes a bit of whiskey as a special treat.

Electronics

No matter how much we like to escape the “real world” when we bikepack, electronics are essential parts of our navigation and safety systems these days.

Here are all the electronics I carried on the GDMBR:

Smartphone : Primary navigation device using the RideWithGPS app, with maps cached offline. (Offline caching requires a small monthly fee, totally worth it in my opinion.). Gaia GPS is a popular alternative to RideWithGPS.

Note about reception: Don’t expect to have connectivity on all (or even most) of the GDMBR. T-Mobile, AT&T, and Verizon all cover slightly different areas, and all have large dead zones in rural parts of the US. You’ll probably have service in towns, but don’t count on it out in the national forests.

Garmin eTrex22x : My backup navigation device while riding solo. Never used, sent it home when my husband arrived (his phone would serve as our backup). My smartphone is easier to use and I wasn’t usually short on battery during this trip, which is the primary reason I sometimes use the eTrex. That said, I do use the eTrex for racing and more rugged routes; see my eTrex review for more detail.

Bike computer : CatEye Velo 7 , simple and cheap, handy for checking distance covered without using smartphone battery.

Satellite Messenger : Garmin InReach Mini , for communication and emergencies in areas without phone service. The GDMBR route is not that remote and I don’t think this is necessarily mandatory, especially for those riding in groups. But it’s always a good idea and offers an extra layer of safety if things ever go sideways. Solo riders especially (and their loved ones) will likely appreciate the peace of mind. For more detail, see  How to Use Your Garmin InReach Mini .

Headlamp ,  Petzl Actik Core : I like that this headlamp is USB-rechargeable but can also take AAAs in a pinch. Has a good low-light mode and red night-vision setting for camp.

Tail light : Red blinky tail light for visibility on high-traffic roads. I use the Blackburn Central 50 which is sadly discontinued, but Planet Bike Superflash is good too.

Headlight : NiteRider Lumina 900 Boost with helmet mount: Rarely (never?) used because summer days were so long and pace was leisurely, so never needed to ride in the dark. But it’s always a good idea to have a headlight in case you’re stuck riding in dusk or dark for some unforeseen reason. If you have a bright headlamp and a way to mount it, you could consider using that as an emergency-only night riding option.

Power bank : 10,000 mAh Ainope , lightweight and quick-charging. The only time I stretched its capacity was a 4 day section in New Mexico, otherwise there was plenty of opportunity to recharge on the GDMBR.

Wall charger : Anker PowerPort , fast charging with two USB ports, and 3 USB cables of various lengths and types.

Wireless earbuds : Not everyone will agree, but when I spend months riding my bike I like to use some of that time for learning and exploring in other dimensions too. I use Jabra Elite wireless earbuds (technically only one earbud; I always leave one ear open) to enjoy audiobooks, podcasts, and music on all my long adventures.

Obligatory disclaimer: I don’t use my earbud in areas with high risk of encountering bears, or on roads where traffic demands attention.

Bluetooth mini-keyboard : As you can probably tell, I like to write! This little guy makes it so much more pleasant. I mostly used it on rest days for taking notes and answering messages, and found it totally worth the weight.

Kindle E-Reader . Yup, I carried a Kindle! Totally worth the weight. I love reading at camp or on rest days.

Related : How to Keep Electronics Charged While Bikepacking

Toiletries and Consumables

Toiletries are pretty easy to find throughout the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Every few days at most – basically as often as you’ll find food – you’ll find a convenience store with the basics like toothpaste or soap.

That said, selection is limited until you reach a larger town with a full grocery or drug store. If you’re particular about brands or types you’ll definitely want to bring them with you and/or mail them in resupply boxes.

We resupplied a few specific or hard-to-find items – our favorite sunscreen, Dr. Bronner’s soap, chamois cream – via several mail drops throughout the route. The rest we replaced as needed along the way.

Basic Toiletries

Here’s what I carried:

• Toothbrush (I love this travel toothbrush ), small toothpaste, floss
• Deodorant : I often skip this on backpacking trips, but bikepacking involves more time in town around other people…
• Hairbrush : small folding travel brush
• Razor : travel size
• Soap : small amount of Dr. Bronner’s in a tiny bottle, useful as soap, shampoo, or laundry detergent
• Shampoo : small bottle for use at RV park showers and cheap motels that don’t provide toiletries
• Carmex lip balm for nighttime
• Menstrual cup : ladies, the Diva Cup (or similar) is a game changer for long adventures. Here’s why and how .

Note about toiletries: In the US it’s common for hotels, and even most budget motels, to provide small amounts of basic soap and shampoo. But on the GDMBR we often showered at RV parks and campgrounds that didn’t offer this. Carry at least a small amount of soap and shampoo so you can properly enjoy these showers.

Other Consumables

• Sunscreen (in 3 oz bottles) and SPF lip balm
• Chamois cream : I like the small packets of Chamois Butt’r (either regular or “Her”). You’ll find these and maybe another brand or two at bike shops along the way, but if you’re particular about type, mail it to yourself.
• Laundry detergent : I did not bring this but wish I had. Laundromats and hotel laundry rooms rarely had detergent (sometimes they had vending machines but they were often sold out). Once we had to buy a full-size jug just to do one load of wash. A couple small packets would have been worth the weight to carry, or better yet, include strategically in mail drops.

I suggest packing the same toilet kit you would for a wilderness backpacking trip. When you consider all the towns, campgrounds, pit toilets, etc. there are a lot of toilets along the route, but that doesn’t guarantee you’ll find one when you need it. Plus, pit toilets are often out of toilet paper so you’ll need that no matter what.

Here’s what I suggest carrying in order to “leave no trace”:

• Toilet paper : a few squares per day on average, rolled into small packets and carried in a ziplock bag. You can easily resupply this by grabbing a few extra squares when you use a real bathroom. You might need it for pit toilets as well as “natural” bathroom sites.
• Wet wipes : optional but one per day can be a nice treat
• Ziplock bag for used TP : in case you’re not familiar, the standard “leave no trace” etiquette in the US is to pack out all used toilet paper. Burying it, even the “biodegradable” kind, is not very effective; it tends to get resurfaced by rain or animals. So please pack it out, pretty please? Thanks.
• Hand sanitizer : Helps avoid illnesses spread by bathroom breaks and pit toilets.
• Trowel? I personally don’t carry a toilet trowel for bikepacking or backpacking, except in very rocky areas ( Arizona Trail for example). Instead I dig my cathole with a stick, rock, or my shoe. Whatever you choose, do make sure to bury your poo in a hole at least 8 inches deep.

FREE Bikepacking Resupply Checklist

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Town Day Checklist!

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You’ll also receive occasional emails with other bikepacking and touring resources. I think you’ll like them, but you can unsubscribe at any time.

Some miscellaneous items that don’t fit in other categories:

First aid kit , lightweight and customized. I don’t bother with meds like Advil, Tylenol, etc, as they’re probably not going to make a difference in a serious situation, and they’re easy to buy along the way.

Some first aid items I do find useful for urgent situations: Tums, Imodium, New Skin Liquid Bandage (great for keeping small cuts and scrapes from getting infected when you’re out in the dirt all day), a few gauze pads, Celox clotting powder (never needed, but seems useful in case of crash).

Fire starter : Cotton balls rubbed in Vaseline, and waterproof matches or lighter. Rarely used given the high fire danger lately, but occasionally useful for campgrounds and in case of emergency.

Gear Aid Tenacious gear repair tape , handy for patching tent, sleeping pad, bike bags, water bladder, etc. I suspect this can even be used to patch bike tubes in a pinch, but I’ve never tried it.

Mylar space blanket  for emergencies and extra warmth on cold nights.

Spare batteries as needed for your devices. Standard AA and AAA batteries are easy to find at convenience stores, so you only need to carry one spare set at a time.

RumbleRoller Beastie massage ball : I struggle with tight IT bands and this little guy was 100% worth the weight and space.

Disposable ear plugs  for noisy campgrounds or motels.

Wallet  (I use a small ziplock bag) with ID, credit cards, health insurance, etc, plus cash in $1, $5, and $10 (useful for campground fees, laundromats, and donations to trail angels).

Passport : My husband brought mine with him when we met in Jackson, and we both carried ours (carefully) for the rest of the trip. If riding southbound and crossing the international border at the beginning, I would probably mail it home after crossing. Riding northbound you could have someone at home mail it out to you (with proper insurance and certifications).

Cloth face mask  for town, this being 2021 and all.

Bear spray : picked up at Brush Mountain Lodge for the northern section (there’s a box where southbounders leave their bear spray and northbounders pick it up)

Pepper spray : I always carry pepper spray as a sleep aid when I travel solo. If I ever get nervous, having it nearby helps me sleep. Never had to use it for anything else. Once I picked up the bear spray this was redundant.

GDMBR Packing Tips

I said this at the beginning but it bears repeating: there’s no single right way to pack for the Great Divide. This post describes the GDMBR gear list that worked for me, but if you know your preferences are different, you do you!

Let me leave you with two final tips that I believe will be helpful to almost everyone:

Pack light-ish . This will mean different things to different people. I saw everything out there, from “How on earth are you surviving with so little?” to “How on earth are you hefting all that gear up these climbs?”

Run panniers if you want, or run a lightweight racing kit, but whatever you choose, do it intentionally. There is a LOT of climbing on the GDMBR and you’ll feel every extra pound. But it’s also a long time to be out there without whatever makes you feel comfortable and happy. Find the balance.

Use the postal service . There are hundreds of post offices along the GDMBR. If you’ve packed something you’re not using, mail it home. If you’re on the fence about bringing something, leave it with a friend and ask them to mail it to you on the road if requested.

To receive USPS packages at any post office, use General Delivery. Note that ordering items from Amazon or other online retailers can be harder since they often use UPS. For these cases it’s best to call a business along the route (hotel, RV Park, store, bike shop) that you plan on patronizing and ask if they’ll hold a package for you.

More Great Divide Resources

I hope this post has helped you fine-tune your GDMBR gear list. For help with other aspects of your Great Divide prep, see these other posts:

• GDMBR Logistics and Planning Guide

These general bikepacking posts might also be helpful:

• Bikepacking Bikes and Bags for Small and Short People
• How to Pack for Bikepacking
• 5 Ways to Carry a Tent on Your Bike
• Bikepacking Pace Guide: How many miles per day?

Or, visit the bikepacking resources center for many more bikepacking guides and stories.

About the Author

Hi there, I’m Alissa, founder of Exploring Wild. I’ve traveled over 19,000 miles by bike and still can’t stop planning my next ride (and helping you plan yours). Pavement and panniers or singletrack and seat bag, I love it all. On my bike I feel free. Learn more about me here .

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8 thoughts on “My Great Divide Bikepacking Gear List: What Worked & What Didn’t”

Great resource – thanks! And I’m glad I’m not the only one who brings whatever I want to bring regardless of what others think!

For sure, we’re out there to enjoy ourselves and we all have our favorite ways of doing that.

Superb, extremely comprehensive, very useful. Thanks for taking the time. Still think lightweight racks ie Tailfin beat Saddle Packs by themselves by a street mile.

Thanks! One of these days I’ll have to try that kind of setup. I can definitely see advantages especially for those of us with low tire clearance.

So much great information, I keep going back to your links. We are in the pre planning phase of our Great Divide trip, your writing is very motivating. We are also thinking about going NOBO. Any thoughts on what would be the earliest you could start?

I’m glad you’re finding it helpful! You must be so excited for your trip. NOBO start date depends on snowpack in the San Juans and how long it takes you to get there. I would suggest joining the “Great Divide Mountain Bike Route Information Exchange” Facebook group and following what people say there. I think mid-May is typical but it varies year to year, especially these days.

This is an awesome resource! Thanks for the detail. It is exciting but slightly frightening to look through it and realize I have just about everything needed to embark on an adventure like this, apart from time (for now)!

Haha yes, in many ways time (and motivation) are the most important things on the list! I hope you’re able to get out there eventually.

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Great Divide Mountain Bike Route

Riding Canada to Mexico

Great Divide Route Trip Summary & Epilogue

Riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route was an amazing experience, and we hope that sharing our journey here will inspire, inform and prepare others to embark on a similar adventure!

Feel free to reach out to us with any questions about the route. We plan to add more info to this website about our bikes & gear, general planning advice, FAQs, and online resources about the route in the near future.

Dates : August 9 to September 19, 2017

Trip Length : 37 riding days, 5 rest days

Total Distance : 2,725 miles (4,385 km)

Average Daily Distance : 73.6 miles/day (118.4 km/day)

Climbing : 161,347′ (49,178m)

Average Daily Climbing : 4,360′ (1,329m)

Route Geography : Banff, Alberta to Antelope Wells, New Mexico ( Alberta , British Columbia , Montana , Idaho , Wyoming , Colorado , New Mexico )

Trip Updates:

• Made it to the Mountains – 8/6/2017
• And We’re Off! Day 1:  Banff to Elkwood Campground (64 miles) – 8/9/2017

British Columbia

• We Cross the Divide! Day 2: Elkwood Campground to Sparwood (77 miles) – 8/10/2017
• To the Grizzly Highway Day 3: Sparwood to Butts Cabin (57 miles) – 8/11/2017
• A Slog, but We Made It Day 4: : Butts Cabin to Eureka (73 miles) – 8/12/2017
• Fire Detour #1 Day 5: Eureka to Kalispell (60 miles) – 8/13/2017
• Detour to Glacier National Park Kalispel to Glacier NP (33 miles) – 8/14/2017
• On the Road Again Day 6: Glacier NP’s Apgar to Cedar Creek CG (83 miles) – 8/17/2017
• Fire Detour #2 Day 7: Cedar Creek  CG to Seeley Lake (56 miles) – 8/18/2017
• Fire Detour #3 Day 8: Seeley Lake to Lincoln (62 miles) – 8/19/2017
• Three Pass Day! Day 9: Lincoln to Helena (64 miles) – 8/20/2017
• To the Single Track Day 10: Helena to Lowland  CG (62 miles) – 8/21/2017
• A White-Knuckled Descent Day 11: Lowland CG to Wise River (71 miles) – 8/22/2017
• A Scenic Break Day 12: Wise River to Bannack State Park (56 miles) – 8/23/2017
• Wide Open Spaces Day 13: Bannack State Park to Lima (80 miles) – 8/23/2017
• Running from a Thunderstorm Day 14: Lima to Red Rock Lakes (56 miles) – 8/24/2017
• Into Idaho! Day 15: Red Rock Lakes to Big Springs (34 miles) – 8/25/2017)
• Into Wyoming! Day 16: Big Springs to Grassy Lake Reservoir (70 miles) – 8/28/2017
• Our First 9000ft Pass Day 17: Grassy Lake Reservoir to Falls CG (78 miles) – 8/29/2017
• To Pinedale and Beyond Day 18: Falls CG to Boulder (101 miles) – 8/30/2017
• We Go Sailing Day 19: Boulder to Atlantic City (76 miles) – 8/31/2017
• A Dry, Dusty Day through the Great Basin Day 20: Atlantic City to A&M Reservoir (83 miles) – 9/1/2017
• Out of the Basin Day 21: A&M Reservoir to Teton Reservoir (72 miles) – 9/2/2017
• Back to Mountains and Aspen Forests Day 22: Teton Reservoir to USFS Sandstone Work Center (42 miles) – 9/3/2017
• Big Mountains and a Broken Rim Day 23: USFS Work Camp to Steamboat Springs (79 miles) – 9/4/2017
• Happy for a Half Day Day 24: Steamboat Springs to Blacktail Creek CG (47 miles) – 9/5/2017
• On to the Colorado River Day 25: Blacktail Creek CG to Blue River CG (74 miles) – 9/6/2017
• From Ski Town to Small Town Day 26: Blue River CG to Hartsel (75 miles) – 9/7/2017
• Over Marshall Pass Day 27: Hartsel to Sargents (88 miles) – 9/8/2017
• Back to the Desert Day 28: Sargents to Del Norte (111 miles) – 9/9/2017
• Our Highest Pass Day 29: Del Norte to Elk River CG (72 miles) – 9/10/2017
• A Muddy, Mucky Day Day 30: Elk Creek CG to Hopewell Lake CG (64 miles) – 9/11/2017
• Matt’s Last Day Day 31: Hopewell Lake CG to Abiquiu (55 miles) – 9/12/2017
• Climbing Sand, Rock and Lava Day 32: Abiquiu to Cuba (79 miles) – 9/14/2017
• The Long, Windy Way Around Day 33: Cuba to Grants (118 miles) – 9/15/2017
• Taking it Easier Day 34: Grants to Pie Town (72 miles) – 9/16/2017
• New Mexico’s Diversity Day 35: Pie Town to Beavertown Work Camp (97 miles) – 9/17/2017
• 430am Start and Rugged Climbing Day 36: Beaverhead to Silver City (84 miles) – 9/18/2017
• A Big Push to Antelope Wells Day 37: Silver City to Antelope Wells (123 miles) – 9/19/2017

A Big Push to Antelope Wells

FINAL Day 37: Silver City to Antelope Wells, 123.7 miles, 2,842 feet

I started riding from Silver City at 4:40am, with 4L of water and all 4 lights going. The first 18 miles on the paved road went fast, with a wide shoulder and little traffic. Morning’s first light started to emerge after I turned onto a dirt/sand road through a yucca desert, watching the sun bending around the horizon to peek through the mountains in the distance to the north.

The road was a little sandy at the beginning, but transitioned into hard packed dirt which allowed me to move quickly on a long gradual descent to I10 following a divide crossing. I texted Anna on my progress, hoping to calculate a time to connect at the border crossing without too much waiting for her and the kids.

I was relieved to reach the highway around 8am, with much distance behind me and smooth surfaces only ahead. The route continued along the frontage road before turning south toward Hachita and the end of the route (65 miles left – couldn’t tell whether that felt like a lot or a little!).

I soon passed the final Continental Divide crossing, only known by the sign along the road. On the way south to Hachita, the wind started to pick up from the west. I took a break a nice little shop in Hachita, 45 miles now to go.

From this point, the sidewinds became very strong and the riding monotonous and mentally draining. The Big Hatchet State Game Refugee loomed ahead on the left, something to look at and show some sort of reference to progress. Occasionally border control trucks would fly past me, but not much else.

I set goals for each 10 mile segment and pushed on as the winds became stronger and stronger.   With 15 miles to go, Anna passed with the car and offered a cold gatorade, and I decided to lighten my bike and ditch my frame bag, helping a bit with the sidewinds for the final push. Thankfully the road took a slight bend to the east for the last few miles, giving me a boost until I could see the border two miles away! Finally, arrival!

At 123 miles, it was the longest day of the trip and the earliest start and arrival time for a ride fo that length. Thankfully the first half went fast, and I managed to average around 14mph for the day. I think the wind kept me around 10-11mph for the last 45 miles.

Antelope Wells isn’t really more than a border crossing, and a very relaxed one in that. Some of the border staff came out and offered me and Silas an ice cream cone and a bottle of water, and we posed for photos near the US/Mexico sign, hard to believe the route was done and it was time to go home. We were all excited to have arrived, sad to think of the trip coming to an end, but looking forward to getting back to Virginia.

We packed up the car, changed and headed east to El Paso (via Columbus, an alternate ending due east of Hachita). At one point in the day I considered switching to end there with a huge tailwind, but was happy to head farther south to the traditional route end. For people without a vehicle to pick them up, it’s basically the option of paying for an expensive shuttle from the border. Not an ideal place to end in that regard, but Antelope Wells sure does feel like the end of the road. It did cross my mind that there’s the option of only another 55 miles to Janos, Mexico…

430am Start and Rugged Climbing

Day 36: Beaverhead to Silver City, 84.1 miles, 7,691 feet

It ended up dropping down to freezing temperatures overnight, and with restless sleep in my 2.5 season Rab quilt, I decided to get up at 3am to make coffee and oatmeal, and get on with it. I hit the road in the dark at 4:30am with lights, 6L of water, and plenty of time to hopefully arrive early and gear up for tomorrow’s final day.

It was a very challenging day, a combination of little sleep, a loaded bike with heavy water, rough surfaces, and lots of climbing. I was glad to have started early. I hadn’t ridden much in the dark before, and was a surreal experience to watch the landscape emerge from night to day. I used a bike headlight mounted on my handlebars and headlamp to sea farther ahead on descents and into the turns. I loved the quiet of the night, the shining moon, and the lack of awareness from limited visibility ahead which dulled the challenge of grinding up rough, steep grades and making slow progress.

I managed to get 20 miles in before sunrise on a high ridge, much of it climbing. My front light lasted 1 hour, 45 minutes on the highest setting (I should have turned it down) and the headlamp carried me through with dawn’s light assisting. In daylight, I could see the mountains rolling before me, and I paused for a moment before setting out to complete the rest of the dirt road section of the route up and over a few steep canyons.

The dirt road climbing behind me, I pedaled the last few miles riding directly along the divide to join highway 35, and I was glad to see the pavement which would take me all the way into Silver City around 50 miles into the day. I decided against the shorter alternate route along the CDT, assuming it would take longer and I was hoping to get in earlier and maybe grab a sandwich at a shop along the road.

Following the highway presented its own dramatic landscapes, a beautiful lake, cliff dwellings, with some ups and downs as well as headwinds at some places. Unfortunately the shop I was looking for was closed (maybe for good), and I ate a hearty lunch headed up the final (steep and long!) climb to Pinos Altos. My body was glad to be on pavement, and my mind rallied by one car that I kept passing me (it stopped at all the lookouts) with a passenger who sticking his torso out the window and shouting encouragements to me each time.   I reached the top with most of my energy spent, coasting down to Silver City.

I arrived in Silver City around 2:30pm where Anna and the kids had a comfortable hotel (Copper Manor Hotel) and were enjoying the city. Exhausted, I tried to wrap my head around one final day on the Great Divide Route, and the distance and energy it would take to finish it all tomorrow.

We cooked a huge dinner (and a breakfast to pack) in the town park and I spent the evening getting the bike ready and charging lights, the car packed and ready to pick me up at Antelope Wells, and transition into the journey home. I tried to get to bed early to start again at a similar time, with high winds and warm temperatures in the forecast starting early afternoon.

New Mexico’s Diversity

Day 35: Pie Town to Beaverhead Work Camp, 97.7 miles, 3,746 feet

Riding fully loaded with overnight gear, two days of food and 8L of water, I left earlier at 7am with the family still asleep at the Toaster House, hoping to use more daylight to cover the nearly 100 miles in store for today’s route.

I eased out onto rolling dirt roads through ranch land and pine forests, finishing most of the climbing before the temperatures and wind picked up mid-morning. I barely noticed two minor Continental Divide crossings, followed by a more sustained climb up to the day’s high point and divide crossing (#24) in the Glia National Forest.

After descending the moderate pass and crossing New Mexico State Highway 12, I emerged onto flat grazing land, and the wind started to pick up while the environment changed dramatically to big sky landscapes with hundreds of large grasshoppers, yellow flowers and cattle and windmills in the distance. I managed to find a suitable lunch spot to take a break from the wind at a cattle guard with a cement ledge to sit on, watching a variety of hunting pickup trucks and campers passing by.

Leaving the flats again, I climbed back up into the forests via the La Jolla Canyon (slight wind break!) for another divide crossing through pine forests, and then back down into the O-Bar-O Canyon where I met a herd of antelope running across the grasslands.

Thankfully, the day’s long distance passed through environments that were constantly changing, with pleasant riding and cool temperatures which helped the miles fly by.

I arrived feeling good at the USFS Beaverhead Work Center late in the afternoon, glad to fill up on water (I had drank 6L of my 8L), find a pit toilet, and options for informal camping nearby. As it was late in the season and a weekend, the place was mostly abandoned except for two staff from California, who were incredibly laid back and told me I was welcome to camp out anywhere.

I cooked all the food I had brought for dinner at I nearby bench, and laid out my groundsheet, pad and sleeping bag under the info board. I figured it wouldn’t be that cold and didn’t feel like rigging the fly tarp I had brought along in case of rain. I feel asleep to the sounds of elk bugles and a sky full of bright stars.

Taking it easier

Day 34: Grants to Pie Town (Malpais Detour), 72.8 miles, 2,942 feet

Once again prompted with two options, I decided once again to play it safe at stick with the shorter road “Malpais” option for the first half (saving 17 miles overall), mostly to give my body a break and because it looked quite scenic and interesting. The last push from Pie Town to Antelope Wells would be difficult, and I needed a little rest to stay on schedule to finish by the 19th.

It seemed that most other cyclists had the same idea, as I encountered six people riding the divide who had made the same choice, including John from York, PA (near where I grew up) as well as persons from the UK, Germany and the US, one riding recumbent the full route. It was nice to see other riders after seeing none for almost 200 miles, passing the time a little faster and sharing stories. John mentioned that we should stay in the “Toaster House” in Pie Town. I wasn’t sure what that meant at the time, but texted Anna with the info before I lost phone coverage.

I pushed on for most of the day solo, on rolling hills over dirt roads that were pretty ridable with sand in some places. The wind was still there at 10-15mph, but the route was more sheltered overall and easier in comparison to the long haul yesterday.

The “Toaster House” is a residence that has been donated for use of CDT hikers and Great Divide riders, managed by volunteers locally. It’s donation based with maybe a dozen beds and mattresses, a kitchen, washing machine and shower! Great place, reminding us of many donativo albergues on Spain’s Camino de Santiago . John showed up later after the famous “Pie” cafes had all closed, so we all cooked and ate dinner together. Two other families of “rock climbers” (or so they said) came into the house late into the evening, commandeering much of the space. Eventually we got the kids to sleep.

I decided to pack in for the next two days (180 miles) in order to save Anna about four hours driving to try and meet me at the Beaverhead USFS work station 100 miles in, where there was a reliable water source. I spent most of the evening repacking gear and food and making sure i had everything to complete the long segment loaded and solo. We planned to meet in Silver City and get a hotel after two days, the last larger town before the 124 miles to the Mexican Border (which I was hoping to do in one day).

The Long, Windy Way Around

Day 33: Cuba to Grants, 118 miles, 4,229 feet

Continuing my ambitious itinerary to make it to Grants today, I had two options:

• Take the main, unpaved route for 107 miles to the USFS Coal Mine Campground where I could meet Anna and the kids in the car. This route was completely unpaved and had the potential to be impassable in the mud from last night’s heavy rainstorm, making it difficult to complete in one day.
• Take the “Chaco Detour” entirely on the paved road, a distance of 119 miles to Grant (ACA maps were incorrect saying 112), and getting a little farther towards Antelope Wells.

After much internal deliberation, I decided with the road option to reduce the risk of not making it out in time with the mud, and hopefully being a little easier on my body. With memories of the bike-arresting mud in the mountains north in New Mexico, I felt the road option would present fewer variables.

Unfortunately, the variable I hadn’t considered was the wind , which presented itself strongly soon into the ride, with 15-20 hour head and side winds for around 100 miles of the 118 mile day. Privileged to have spent so much time on dirt roads on the GDMBR, I had also forgot how boring road riding is in comparison, making the wind/monotony challenge of the day something that took all of mental energy.

I headed west from Cuba, following pleasant but fairly nondescript landscape most of the way. The day presented one option for purchasing food at a Navajo convenience store/laundromat at ACA mile 46 near Pueblo Pintado (this is not really a town). I microwaved some prepackaged hamburgers to supplement my packed PB&J sandwiches, ate some junk food for variety and pressed on, still with significant distance before sunset.

The rest of the day was mentally and physically draining, and a constant conversation with myself as to whether I would make it in before dark. Around mile 85 the landscape became more interesting and hilly with rock formations, mountains and cliffs nearby. I welcomed the hills as a break from the monotony and windy. Around 100 miles in, there was a section that heading slightly SSE, also a minor but welcome break from the wind. When I hit Milan on Rt. 66, it was smooth sailing east to just before Grants, where we met at the KOA, just south of Interstate 40.

The Grants KOA is a wonderful place, offering cookies at check-in, fast wifi, and the best shower of the trip. Exhausted, I sat down in the shower at full heat, letting it relax me to the point where I lost track of time and think I almost passed out. Then on to dinner and rehydrating, thankful to be done the longest distance of the trip (so far), and still wondering if that mud would have been worse than the wind (or if I would have been fighting both of them together). I was sad to have missed the unpaved section, but mostly just thankful that I was in Grants.

Over dinner, our son Silas threw the InReach device onto the picnic table, prompting a message at boot up, “Your device has been damaged. You will not be able to send messages.” The InReach’s tracking and messaging functions became inoperable at this point, prompting friends and family to wonder if we were alright as we were also out of mobile phone coverage over the remainder of the trip. InReach users (which there are many on the GDMBR), be sure to protect your device well, either in a case or with extra care. I had expected this critical piece of safety equipment to be more robust honestly. Upon returning home, I found out Garmin will replace it with a refurbished device for $150 over a two week process. Thankfully I didn’t have any emergencies requiring it for the remainder of the trip.

*Note that the ACA distance from Cuba to Grants is incorrect. It should be 122 miles to the center of Grants, not 112. We stopped a few miles early at the KOA.

Climbing Sand, Rock and Lava

Day 32: Abiquiu to Cuba, 79.1 miles, 7,871 feet

It’s always an adjustment to get going again after a day off the bike, but this segment ended up being one of the most challenging of the trip. Starting the day solo was also a new reality, trying to process any other planning and contingency considerations and wondering if I’d see any other cyclists along the way.

After the hour drive from Santa Fe to Abiquiu, I got going a little later than I had hoped around 9am, and started the climb up from the paved road. The first section was a gradual climb, nothing to different from what we had already encountered, but as it got going, the surface deteriorated into a combination of sand, rock slabs, large loose rocks, and chunks of rough lava. Soon into the climb, I met the face of Ross from Australia, who we had seen few days back in Colorado and who had a tire issue that required a bike shop off route to fix. We rode and talked together for a little while before I pushed ahead, worried that I wouldn’t make it to Cuba by sunset unless I went a bit faster.

After pushing hard and trying to maintain focus on my track on the ground to get to the top, I realized that after 28 miles I had climbed about 4800’, probably the longest sustained climb fo the trip and with one of the worst combinations of trail surface. Thankfully after this, the route flattened up a bit more and I was able to make better time, adding another 3,000′ over the next 50 miles. The latter half of the route flowed better as a dirt road rollercoaster on a better surface, which kept my tired mind and body more distractedly engaged.

I met two more cyclists Bill & Chris towards the end, who both seemed exhausted from the route, and very ready to be in Cuba, even it if was at midnight. Thunderstorms were in the forecast, and I could see the sky darkening as the afternoon progressed. With relief, I finally reached the paved road and downhill to Cuba and watched the lightning and thunder roll out in the distance, striking left and right across the desert valley floor. One mile from reaching the hotel in Cuba and almost at sunset, it caught me in a torrential downpour with high winds. I was soaked and shot from a really challenging day.

Matt’s Last Day

Day 31: Hopewell Lake Campground to Abiquiu (55.5 miles, 2,566ft)

Worried that we might encounter awful muddy surfaces again due to the night’s rain, we got up extra early, rudimentarily serviced our bikes, and got on the road by 7:30am. We climbed a few hundred feet to start the day, but from there we traveled mostly downhill for the first 20 miles to a paved road at Cañon Plaza—a small collection of houses in various states of repair. Another five miles of paved descent brought us to Vallecito—another tiny town—and from there we began a relatively mild 800ft climb on dirt forest roads to our only pass of the day.

Thankful for the mild terrain (and the excellent, improved gravel road surface) we made it to the top in no time. We had a small lunch and enjoyed the ensuing descent down to El Rito, where we joined another paved road. From El Rito, we followed the paved road the next 16 miles to Abiquiu, our day’s end point.

We had planned for our friend Mark—a Santa Fe resident—to come help us shuttle our bikes and ourselves to his family’s place in Santa Fe, where we’d have a rest day. As we were waiting at a gas station, however, we met a young couple and their daughter, fresh off a backpacking trip in Colorado, who offered to help us drive our things to Santa Fe. Thankful for this generous offer—apparently you don’t look dangerous when traveling with 2.5 year and 7-month olds—we packed up some bags and took off for Santa Fe.

This was a bittersweet drive for me (Matt)—I’d be ending my trip in Santa Fe and traveling for Chicago, while David would be continuing for the final 550 miles with Anna, Silas, and Eleanor. Happy for the rest, but sad to see the trip end, I had a fun day with everyone in Santa Fe (boxing up and shipping my bike in the process), before catching a Chicago-bound train (via Lamy, New Mexico) the following day.  

A Muddy, Mucky Day

Day 30: Elk Creek Campground to Hopewell Lake Campground (64 miles)

We woke up a bit later than usual—on account of the shade trees and rushing stream at the campground (and, perhaps, the previous day’s climbing)—but still got off to a reasonable 9:00am start. While we weren’t going to have any single climbs as long as the climb to Indiana Pass, we knew we had a relatively hard day with considerable up and down ahead of us. The ACA maps and GDMBR guidebook also made it sound like the road quality would be less than stellar.

The day began under sun and a bright, clear sky with a 1,500ft climb on a paved road to La Manga Pass, an excellent warm up to start the day.

On the other side of the pass, we soon turned of the paved road onto a dirt road, crossed the Cumbres and Toltec light gauge railroad—a 64-mile high-altitude light gauge tourist rail that runs, largely, along the Colorado/New Mexico border—and entered New Mexico (and the Carson National Forest).

The road was rockier than many of the dirt roads we’d ridden in Colorado, and as we slowly climbed thunderheads built ominously around us.

Soon the road quality deteriorated further, and we passed a sign warning against vehicle travel in wet conditions. We hurried along as we heard thunder in the distance, trying to make miles before the rain hit. Not far ahead, the rain caught us; we found shelter in a spruce grove and pulled on our rain gear—for the the first time in the trip, I felt the weather was wet enough to pull out my waterproof booties.

As the rain slowed, we decided to continue on. Soon we reached an uphill section filled with large, loose rocks that we found impossible to ride; so we pushed our bikes up the hill a half a mile to the Cruces Basin Lookout. From there we pedaled slowly along the wet, muddy road, passing along sections of the trail that had been caked in hail—the hail, incidentally, provided much more traction than the thick, sticky mud we were encountering.

Ahead on a steep downhill we ran into deep mud, and Dave quickly wiped out. (Thankfully, we were riding slowly, and thankfully I was riding behind him and was able to avoid the same fate.) He quickly popped back up, we picked our way along slowly, half walking half biking. Soon we were riding in the grass alongside the trail to avoid the mud; but when trees encroached, we were back on the road in the mud; further along the road, Dave sunk deep into a particularly treacherous (but nearly invisible) pit of muck and went down again; I tried to plow through, but soon my back wheel stopped rotating entirely. I tried putting a foot down and pushing forward, but I just slipped. What a mess. It was now 2:30pm and we’d yet to cover 30 miles; easily the slowest we’d traveled yet on the trip.

We stopped to collect ourselves and consider our options. There seemed to be a rough trail on our maps that led to a paved road a number of miles away, but we’d couldn’t be sure of the road quality; we decided to push ahead (literally pushing our bikes). Not far along, on a higher section of road, the surface improved, so we tried to ride. I could not longer shift out of my middle front ring, so I ground my way up hills; Dave periodically lost his chain. We figured we were carrying 10 extra pounds in mud each.

Occasionally, we encountered a bad muddy section, which we’d plow through; but lucky for us we eventually came to an improved gravel surface, and we began to make better time. The terrain opened and we descended, before climbing again through pastureland—by this point our drivetrains were making all kinds of odd noises. After climbing another mini pass, we saw a sign for the paved highway four miles away. We thought we were in luck but ended up slipping and sliding most of the rest of the way through a muddy, mucky mess. A truck towing an RV along the way didn’t seem to be having much better luck than us.

Finally, we reached the highway. A five mile climb and we reached the Hopewell Lake Campground around 6:00pm, exhausted but happy to have arrived.

Our Highest Pass

Day 29: Del Norte to Elk River Campground (72.5 miles, 6,344ft)

While our previous day had been our longest to date (111.4 miles), the ride from Del Norte to Elk River Campground looked to be one of our hardest. We’d be crossing Indiana Pass—at 11,910 feet the highest pass we’d cross on the trip and, with over 4,000 feet of elevation gain, the longest single climb we’d face on the trip. Because of the day’s shorter distance, we left Del Norte at a regular time (for us after making breakfast and packing the car up): 9:00am.

Over the first 12 miles of the ride, we ascended an easy 1,000 feet along pavement. From there the pavement ended and the climb’s grade became much steeper. We shifted down into our granny gears, and began the long, slow, but still manageable portion of the ascent.

Again the changes in scenery as we gained elevation were stunning, and we soon found ourselves in pine and aspen forests—we were lucky to catch the aspen leaves changing color.

Along the climb, we passed a surprising number of trucks—riding on a Sunday, we seemed to be catching recreational traffic—and a number of beautiful dispersed campsites, which would have been ideal for self-supported riders.

Eventually, we did make it to the top of the climb, but our work wasn’t yet done. For the next 13 miles, we rode above 11,000 feet, descending from and ascending to a number of minor passes. The incredible views along the way easily kept our minds off our tired legs, however.

After those 13 miles through the high country, we descended roughly 1,500 feet along a creek, passing a couple of stunning lakes along the way.

Before the bottom, we made a sharp right past a national forest campground, and began our final significant climb of the day, climbing 700-800 feet over a minor pass, before descending to the mountain village of Platoro—the name is a combination of the Spanish words for silver and gold, “plata” and “oro,” a nod to the mining that once took place here.

In Platoro, we took a break in the local cafe and waited out a rainstorm that rolled through. Once the rain passed, we rode the final 23 miles down the Conejos River on a washboarded dirt road to Horca and the Elk River Campground—another wonderful campground nestled along a gurgling brook.

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The First Ever Great Divide MTB Ride

The GDMBR's roots lie in both the mid 1970s rise in US bicycle touring and the creation of the Continental Divide Scenic Trail (CDNST), established (undertaken) 1978. The CDNST and notions of traveling the Divide corridor are what inspired Mike and Dan Moe of Laramie Wyoming to ride (and push) their mountain bikes along the full US stretch of the Divide in 1984. The two part story of their adventure, published in Spring and Summer 1985 editions of Bicycle Rider , "The Grand Touring Magazine" is what inspired ACA to establish a MTB-specific route 10 years later.

Below, Part 1 ( East is East , Spring 1985) is extremely poor resolution (virtually unreadable) and no 'known' alternative source for it exists, as BR (and it's publisher) went belly up in 1987. Library of Congress has been no help. On the positive side, Harold Miller of PA has graciously provided us with a scanned copy of Pt. 2 from his personal collection of BR, which begins with Summer 1985 and runs through the final publication in 1987.

(pdf) East is East , Mike and Dan Moe . Bicycle Rider , Spring 1985.

(pdf) West is West , Mike and Dan Moe . Bicycle Rider , Summer 1985.

Back to Articles About the Route

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Essential. Use a dedicated GPS device or an offline map app such as MAPS.ME.  From the ridewithgps.com route profile, click on MORE and then EXPORT FILE.

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The special edition 10th issue of The Bikepacking Journal is one you won’t want to miss! It features 25% more pages with extra stories, bonus art and maps, and much more...

Issue 09 takes readers on trips through time—one to the early days of bicycles—and offers several reminders to be grateful for supportive friends and family, and strangers we meet along the way...

For Issue 08, we invited several contributors to return and pick up where earlier trips and ideas left off and also feature a handful of first-timers whose perspectives we’ve long been eager to share...

Rigs of the 2023 Tour Divide (Part 1): Drop-Bar Bikes

With the Tour Divide grand depart coming up on Friday, we’re pleased to present the Rigs of the 2023 Tour Divide. Like last year, we’ve split them into two categories and are kicking things off with more than 50 drop-bar rigs that will be taking on the 2,700-mile route from Canada to Mexico, including bag and gear highlights for each. Dive in here…

The Tour Divide is arguably the most popular bikepacking event ever, and each year, hundreds of riders from across the globe gather in Banff, Alberta, with plans to ride the roughly 2,700-mile route along the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route south toward Mexico. There’s a vast range of riders in the 2023 edition, from ultralight endurance racers looking to best the impossibly fast sub-15-day pace to folks slowly rolling along the route for a month or longer. There’s no wrong (or right) way to enjoy the Tour Divide.

Last year’s Tour Divide was especially exciting, returning from a canceled 2020 event and an adjusted version in 2021. Sofiane Sehili took first place with a time of 14 days, 16 hours, and 36 minutes. Ana Jager was the first woman to finish with a time of 19 days and 54 minutes. And our friends Katie and Andrew Strempke took the first singlespeed spots in 19 days, 16 hours, and 11 minutes and 16 days, 19 hours, and 12 minutes, respectively. On Friday at 8 a.m., riders will start their journeys south to the US/Mexico border, a challenging feat we commend everyone participating for lining up to take on.

Like last year, we decided to break the rigs into two days to better showcase the overwhelming number of submissions. You can scroll down for a look at all of the drop-bar bikes submitted to our annual rig roundup, and keep an eye on the site tomorrow for our gallery of 50+ flat-bar rigs. When the event launches on Friday morning, you can also follow along live over on our 2023 Tour Divide Tracker, where we’ll be sharing a lot of great coverage in the weeks ahead.

Gainesville, Florida (USA)

BIKE : Salsa Cutthroat 2018 set up rigid, SRAM force group set 34T 1x front chainring 11-42T rear cassette. BAGS : Revelate Design all around the bike. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Favero Assioma power meter and Look Road pedals baby! My preference pedal and clear platform for long hours on the bike and as a veteran Tour Divide rider, I am prepared to put on minimalist hiking shoes for the hike a bike sections.

Ulrich “Uba” Bartholmoes

Age 36 / munich (germany).

BIKE : 2023 BMC Twostroke 01 One – the bike is totally custom built with Beast Components XS30 Carbon rims wheels with a SON Dynamo hub up front, a SRAM Eagle XS Red Drivetrain (34T x 10-52T), a RockShox SID SL Select + suspension fork and Beast Component drop bars. Pulley wheels and all bearings are low friction ceramic parts by Kogel to ensure smooth pedaling. Tires will be Hutchinson Skeleton & Taipan with 2.15”. My favorite highlight on the bike is my Supernova M99 DY Pro front light – its the brightest I have ever seen and will be my laser sword to conquer the nights! BAGS : I will use the Apidura Backcountry series with the 6L saddle pack, the 4L full frame pack, the 1L rear top tube pack and the 1L top tube pack, for a total of solid 12L to carry clothes, spares and food. If I need more room on the way I will find it in my Apidura Backcountry Hydration Backpack which also features an 2.5L water bladder. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : The bike and the setup for the race are a great work of art and the highlight. My focus is on the lowest possible weight, good durability and, above all, reliability. All components have been tested for many thousands of kilometers and will serve me well.

Everett Bedard

Age 50 / saskatoon, saskatchewan (canada).

BIKE : I will be doing a record amount of hike-a-bike next to Pepper, my 2018 Salsa Cutthroat Apex 1. I upgraded the derailleur to Force 1 and replaced the chainring to 30T. In the rear is a 11x42T cassette. Pepper will be rolling with a set of 2.35” Vitorria Mezcals on Bontrager comp line 30s. When actually riding, I will enjoy a Brooks B17 saddle on a Redshift seat post, as well as profile design aerobars with a 70mm riser on a Redshift stem for comfort. BAGS : At the heart of Pepper is a Rockbros half frame bag. On the bars, Pepper has a Revelate Harness with a Sea to Summit drybag. A couple Revelate Designs feed bags. One for food and one for bear-spray. Hanging up front will be an Axiom bar bag. Strapped to the fork by a couple of Salsa anything cages are a Salsa and Sea to Summit drybags. Top tube Revelate Magtank to finish things off up front. In the rear with be a Sea to Summit Drybag attached to an Aeroe Spider rack. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Sleep system includes a Stormbreak 1, McKinley Trekker sleep, bag, and Klymit pillow. Garmin 830, SPOT tracker, Magicshine RN 3000 headlight, with a Biolite 20,000mAh powerbank. On my back will be an Osprey 2.5L hydration pack. A Befree Katadyn to filter water, with some tablets for possible cow water and such. And to top it all off, my Bike Doctor Detours jersey.

Cameron Bennett

Age 25 / portland, oregon (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be Touring on a Timeline™ on a 2021 Salsa Cutthroat, rolling on a pair of 2.25” Vittoria Mezcals and running a mostly-stock GRX 810 drivetrain with some extra teeth provided by an 11-42 cassette and a goatlink. An SP dynamo hub will power a Sinewave Beacon attached to some Profile Designs T3+ aerobars. A PNW coast suspension dropper will be saving my butt from anything the Specialized Power MIMIC saddle can’t handle. Race Face Atlas flat pedals make for comfier hike-a-biking and city days. Not pictured are a Lauf TR Boost fork and Salsa stem meticulously hand-painted in a white-on-black topo of Portland’s west hills by my fiancée and a lovely little top cap from ATR in Stockholm. BAGS : I’ll be running a set of custom Rogue Panda frame and top tube bags with a topo print of Oregon’s Mount Hood. A Tailfin alloy rack with two Salsa EXP anything cages will keep the weight down and back and allow for a dropped post! Up front, I’ll have a bed roll on a Salsa EXP Anything Cradle and three Revelate feed bags mounted in front of the bars so I can stand to climb without them rubbing my knees. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : We’ll be raising money for p:ear, a Portland nonprofit with a bike shop whose mission is to develop professional skills for youth experiencing homelessness. Navigation will come courtesy of a Garmin Edge 810 and the ACA paper maps, tracking from an InReach Mini, and bonus lighting from a Fenix PD36R rigged as a helmet light. I’ll be sleeping well with a Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL1, old REI air pad, Nemo foam pad, and Katabatic Alsek quilt. A JBL Clip speaker, chess board, Kindle, journal, and Therm-a-Rest Trekker chair will keep me entertained on-route. Severely overweight first aid and repair kits will give us the best chances possible to keep rolling!

Marcel Besemer

Age 63 / veenendaal (the netherlands).

BIKE : Salsa Cutthroat Apex 1 2018 (quite standard, no suspension), Maxxis Ekon EXO 2.35″ front, 2.20″ rear, standard aero bars. BAGS : Salsa Framebag, Revelate Designs seatpack, Sea to Summit eVent bag in front with Revelate pooch, Revelate Top Tube and Decathlon top tube. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : All raingear, down jacket and 3-season sleeping bag from RAB, Therm-a-Rest Neo Air X-lite, little stove, lots of coffe powder, Etrex 30x, Son Dynamo hub 28-15, Terra Nova Laser Comp 1 tent, 12l backpack from RAB. Total load 10kg (22lbs).

Jorne Bluekens

Age 36 / oudenburg, west-flanders (belgium).

BIKE : I’ll be riding the Tour Divide on a steel 2022 Salsa Fargo with Ritchey Venturemax road drop-bar with Wolf Tooth bar tape to compensate vibration. The bike features a pair of Hunt Race XC wheels with tubeless Continental Protection 2.35” Cross King front and 2.25” Race King back 29” tires, SRAM GX Eagle 1×11 11-50 drivetrain with a 32T chainring. A Pedalcell dynamo up front will charge battery pack, Garmin Edge 1030, iPhone 13 Pro and Lezyne lights. Giving the wrists some rest using Profile Design aero bars on the handlebars. The Brooks cambium carved saddle is the one component that always shifts to the bike I go bikepacking with. BAGS : I have mixed Salsa frame bag, Restrap top tube and Apidura front and seat pack. They have proven themselves worthy many times before. Two water bottles are mounted to the fork and extra water will be in my small Salomon trail running backpack CamelBak as needed. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My 600g Sea To Summit bivy tent and Therm-A-Rest light mattress will be my basic sleepover option. Base layer and socks typically merino, Rapha core bib shorts and lastly Castelli Perfetto RoS windjack. Never change a winning combination, I’ll be riding my 3rd pair of Shimano XC5 shoes.

Mike Buckley

Age 63 / hereford, arizona (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be on a Sage Barlow Ti. I’ve been experimenting and trying different options for a while now but think I might have finally got it right, maybe. Wheels are DT Swiss GR1600s with Pirelli Cinturato 650B x 45mm tires. Saddle is a Brooks C-17. I’m sold on the SRAM AXS 40T x 11-52T drivetrain after bikepacking across the U.S. last summer. I’m also a big fan of Big Agnes so both my tent and sleeping setup are from them. BAGS : Other than a beautiful Rogue Panda framebag, my bags are a from a variety of brands. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Handlebar is a Salsa Cowchipper Deluxe 520mm. Pedals Hope F-20 flats. Water filter is a Sawyer Squeeze. Tracking is via my iPhone on a SP-Connect stem mount and a Garmin 1040 Solar. A special shout out to M&M Bikes in Sierra Vista AZ who helped me get here, very much appreciated.

Paul Burdick

Age 44 / boulder, colorado (usa).

BIKE : Lauf Seigla with 1×12 mullet drivetrain using a 38T chainring, 10-52T cassette, XO1 Eagle derailleur, and Force AXS shifters. Profile Design Sonic Ergo 4525A aerobars mounted on a Fred Bar with SRAM wireless blips on the ends. RedShift ShockStop PRO Suspension Seatpost. SON Dynamo Hub with kLite Ultra gravel front light and Qube rear light. Whiskey No.9 36w rims with 2.25” Vittoria Mezcal tires. BAGS : Apidura Aerobar Pack, 2x Revelate Designs Feedbag, Tailfin Top Tube Pack, Rogue Panda frame bag, Apidura Frame Pack Hydration Bladder 3L, Tailfin AeroPack Alloy without pannier mounts and extended seatpost connector, ZéfalZ Box L. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Park Tool GSC-1 Gear Cleaning Brush for both brushing my teeth and clearing mud.

Benjamin Clark

Age 58 / enumclaw, washington (usa).

BIKE : Salsa Cutthroat. Shimano GRX, 2x, 11x42T. Son Dynamo in front, Chris King in back on HED Belgium G’s with Fleecer Ridge 2.2″. kLite front and back. Brooks C15 Carved on Ritchey seat post. Ebay carbon bars atop Ritchey Beacon bars with a Redshift Shocktop stem. Water: 3L Hydrapack in framebag, 24 oz bottle for mixing, Befree water filter with 2L bag. BAGS : Assorted bags from Revelate, Salsa, Porcelain Rocket, Dispersed and BroadFork. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Digging the Dispersed Top Tube bag for its capacity and my BroadFork Basho bag Jacquelyn made to spec that allows access to the bag while running aero bars. This is the way.

Age 28 / Denver, Colorado (USA)

BIKE : I’ll be riding the Tour Divide on a steel Pipedream A.L.I.C.E. frame and rigid fork. Drivetrain is a SRAM 1×12 using the Ratio kit with road shifters. Front wheel built by Totem Cyclery in Denver using a SP hub paired with a Sinewave Beacon 2 and tail light. BAGS : A.L.I.C.E. is fitted with a custom frame bag from Rogue Panda with room for an Apidura 3L bladder. Seat bag is from Restrap and in the front I’m using a Revelate MagTank and Feedbag, Bedrock Bags Entrada handlebar bag, and Blackburn fork mounted bags. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My delicate wrists will appreciate the RedShift ShockStop suspension stem and Profile Design aerobars, and my pale skin and fashion sense will appreciate Da Brim. My shelter will be a Big Sky Soul 2P, a little extra weight for some peace of mind.

Ben Crannell

Age 36 / nashville, tennessee (usa).

BIKE : I will be riding my Rodeo Labs Flaanimal 5.0. I am running 2.0″ Maxxis Ikons mounted to Boyd CCC Wheels. For the drivetrain I am running GRX 2×11 with a 46/30T chainring and a 11-46T in the rear. BAGS : I am running a combination of a bunch of bags but I am most excited about my South City Stitchworks custom frame bag. Revelate Designs Spinelock seat bag and feed bag. Ortlieb front roll. Rockgeist Cache top tube bag and feedbag. Oveja Negra snack pack. I have 2 water bottles mounted to my fork. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : I will be bringing a Durston X-Mid 1P tent with an Enlightened Equipment down quilt on a Nemo Tensor sleeping pad. Navigating with a Garmin Edge 830. I am also really liking running the Fenix BCR-30 with replaceable rechargeable batteries for my lighting system.

Shane Cunico

Age 59 / lac cruces, new mexico (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be racing the Tour Divide for a second time, having finished in 2021, on a 2020 Salsa Cutthroat GRX 810 1x. The bike is very close to stock. I have only changed out the original drivetrain parts with identical replacements due to wear on the originals. The only things not stock: I will be riding a Selle Anatomica H1 saddle. The front wheel is a SON dynamo hub laced to a Velocity BLUNT 32-hole rim. This will power my kLite Ultra Gravel light and my kLite Qube rear safety blinker kit as well as other things that need charging. Rear wheel is identical to the front but using a DT 350 hub. I am using Bontrager aero bar pads and clamps, mated to a pair of profile design bars, with a custom-made aero bridge holding all my electronics. I’ll be using Rene Hearse 2.2″ Fleecer Ridge Endurance Plus Tires. BAGS : My frame bag is the custom Rogue Panda Designs matched bolt-on frame bag made for my Cutthroat model. Up front sees me running an EXP Series Anything Cradle and a simple 15L dry bag. Also on the bars are two Revelate Designs Mountain Feed Bags. I am Tailfin 1.5L Top Tube Pack. Also from Tailfin, I am using their Carbon Areopack and 5-liter panniers. Finally, I have a Wolf Tooth B-RAD Mini Roll Top Bag mounted under the down tube. On the front forks I will be using twin Tailfin Large Cargo Cages with two 1.4L Nalgene bottles. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : An REI 1 person Quarterdome will serve as my shelter mated with a Western Mountaineering 30 degree Megalite sleeping bag and a Klymit Static V, insulated pad to round out my sleep system. I’ll also be carrying a Garmin Edge 1040 Solar for navigation. I’ll be using a Garmin inReach Mini for satellite tracking and emergency communication.

Kyle Daigle

Age 53 / baton rouge, louisiana (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be racing the Tour Divide on my 2020 Salsa Fargo with Vittoria Mezcal 2.25” tires mounted on DT Swiss wheels with a SON 28 dynamo front hub powering my Sinewave Beacon dynamo light and keeping my electronics charged and an E*Thirteen TRS+ 9-46T cassette mounted on a DT Swiss 350 rear hub with a 28T oval chainring. BAGS : I decided to spread the love here so I’ll be running a Rouge Panda custom frame bag, Ortlieb seat pack, Tailfin top tube bag, Oveja Negra jerry can and Revelate Designs feed bags. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : I’ll be spending my nights in a Zpacks Duplex tent and a Feathered Friends sleeping bag on a NeoAir Xlite air mattress.

Michael Dean

Age 66 / north bend, oregon (usa).

BIKE : 2020 Salsa Fargo Apex, modified with a Sunrace 11-46t cassette and a 28t chainring (giving a 17.6 – 73.7 gear inches versus OEM 22.0-84.2); Salsa Alternator Plus rack; Brooks B-17 seat; Redshift suspension stem & both upper & drop grip set; Cane Creek Thudbuster v3 seat post; PedalCell generator; Profile Design T1+ aerobars; and Raceface Arc30HD rims, DT Swiss 350 hubs & Maxxis Ikon 2.25-2.35 tires running tubeless. BAGS : Rogue Panda custom framebag; Louise seat bag frame w/ Event bag; 2x Topeak VersaCage & 2x DOM Gorilla Bags; Salsa Anything Cradle, pouch & top loader bag; Revelate Jerrycan, gastank & feedbag; Ortlieb 70L pannier set; 2x 1L bottles. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : I’m touring the Great Divide at a leisurely, 3month pace, so I’m traveling heavy: approx. 65#. Big Agnes Cooper Spur UL-2 Bikepacking tent; 40deg bag w/ bivy cover & fleece liner; ultralight Klymit pad; Wahoo Elemnt Roam v1 and an old phone for navigation; full cookset including a fry pan.

Katie Dolan

Age 22 / seattle, washington (usa).

BIKE : I’m racing this years Tour Divide on a Titanium Tumbleweed Stargazer with a Corvus Cycles fork running big tires, low gears and high stack. Built up with SRAM Eagle drivetrain and 2.2″ Maxxis Icon tires. Shutter precision front hub and sinewave beacon light/charger. BAGS : Revelate Spinelock seat bag, Rockgeist framebag, Apidura aero pack, Apidura top tube bag for all the snacks and some Revelate feed bags. A mix of my favorites and what fit. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Rolling with three sets of metallic brake pads, head to toe Gore-Tex rain kit, six spare spokes and a curved needle thread. I may or may not have learned some lessons last year.

Sacha Dowell

Age 41 / perth (australia).

BIKE : My trusty Giant ToughRoad SLR GX1 with a 1×11 drivetrain, 32T chainring and 11-49T cassette. Tyres are 45/50mm (back/front). Add-ons include a SON Dynamo hub, and aerobars. BAGS : Most of my bags are from Bike Bag Dude: custom frame bag, handlebar roll, chaff bag and top tube bag. Plus an Ortleib Seat Pack. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : I’ll be using a Mountain Laurel Designs eVent Soul Bivy, Sea to Summit Spark 2 sleeping bag and Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite mat. I use a Ground Effect Rivulet jacket and Monsoon rain pants as my waterproofs. My navigation device is a Garmin Edge 530.

April Drage

Age 42 / melbourne, victoria (australia).

BIKE : I’ll be riding the Tour Divide on a 2022 Curve Cycling Big Kev called “Miles”. What’s special about this bike is that it’s an XS titanium 29er “gravel plus” bike, with a Curve Cycling Ride 415 carbon fork. Vittoria Mezcal 29 x 2.25 up front & 29 x 2.1 in the back. Big Kev is kitted out with a SRAM AXS (Rival/ GX) Mullet drivetrain (34T oval up front & 10/52 in the back). The wheels are Curve Cycling carbon Dirt Hoops, complete with DT Swiss rear hub & Shutter Precision Dynamo up front. I have my favourite Klite dynamo light mounted to VAP Cycling Butterfly 3 aero bars. My aero bars have some sneaky 3D printed mods, thanks to Curve Cycling technical lead Jimmy “JTS” Rostund. JTS also designed the 3D printed Klite Qube rear light mount that fits my Big Kev’s seat stay perfectly. BAGS : Revelate Designs feed bags and 10 litre Revelate Designs Spinelock seatpost bag. Aussie made Bike Bag Dude top tube bag (this dude makes such DURABLE stuff). My sleep kit is all wrapped up in an Exped waterproof compression bag that fits neatly in the sling that comes with the VAP Cycling aerobars. An Exped Flex Mat (trimmed to April Size) is so tough it doesn’t need a bag & rounds out the camping portion of the cockpit. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Curve Cycling Walmer Bars. Always a highlight, the sweep, the flare and the width are all game changing for bikepacking & day to day fun. They’re what you’d get if MTB bars & drop bars had a bikepacking baby. There’s plenty of storage space for bags & the extended 31.8 section either side of the clamping area means that my aero bars & endless gadgets are super easy to mount. I love that there are loads of options when it comes to hand positions, great for leverage when the terrain is tricky & they’ve given me a confidence boost when I’m descending. Most importantly, they’re very comfortable, especially with all the cushy gel I’m running under that crazy long bar tape!

Paul Ferucci

Age 54 / anchorage, alaska (usa).

Matteo Gagliardi Alberti

Age 50 / bergamo (italy).

BIKE : I’ll be riding the Tour Divide on a 2017 Niner RLT steel (called Ninina)! The bike features a new pair of Teravail Rutland durable 650bx47mm tires and Hunt Carbon custom rims whit a Son dynamo hub. The drivetrain is a modified 1×11 SRAM Force with a 36T Absolute Black oval chainring and e-thirteen 10-46T cassette. I’m running Paul Component Klamper brakes, Selle Italia SLR gravel saddle, Deda Element seatpost, Deda aereobar, Redshift shockpost stem and XTR pedals. BAGS : My bag setup includes a Miss Grape saddle bag and handlebar bag, Revelate Designs frame bag, and a few other small bags from Revelate. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : A MSR Hubba NX1 tent, Marmot Helium sleeping bag, Therm-a-Rest sleeping pad. For navigation I will use Garmin Edge 1040 solar. kLite ultra v2 for my lighting.

Mark Gibson

Age 62 / perkasie, pennsylvania (usa).

BIKE : My home away from home will be a Rodeo Labs Flaanimal 5.0. The local Philly guys at Redshift Sports will be keeping my bum and wrists pampered with their Shockstop stem and seatpost. My saddle is a 32-year old Brooks B-17. Having not gone with a Cutthroat frame I will attempt to appease the trail gods by wrapping my Hunt wheels with Vittoria Mezcals. The bits that make it move and stop are mostly Shimano GRX with a smaller Wolf Tooth chainring. A Son dynamo will power my Klite lights and Sinewave Revolution. The Profile Design aerobars are perched atop 50mm risers. BAGS : Mostly Revelate bags with a Tailfin AeroPack in the rear. Handlebar dry bag is held aloft by an Aeroe Spider cradle. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Too much roughing it is for the kids younger than my saddle. So, Nemo Hornet tent, Big Agnes SL pad, inflatable Sea to Summit pillow and snuggly Nemo Riff sleeping bag for me. Techy stuff includes Garmin Edge 840 and Inreach Mini. A squeaky dinosaur on the Ritchey Venturemax handlebars will scare off bears and a sticker of the Monty Python Black Knight in the cockpit will remind me to never quit. (“Tis but a scratch”).

Graham Goff

Age 54 / bozeman, montana (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be riding the Tour Divide on a 2018 Salsa Cutthroat with 2.1″ Vittoria Mezcal tires and a Son28 dynamo hub. The drivetrain will be Wolf Tooth 30T chainring ring (not pictured) paired with a 9-46T cassette. Oh, and some Cinelli Turquoise bar tape as a reminder that this is FUN! BAGS : A full assortment of bags from Revelate, Apidura, Oveja Negra all centered around a custom full frame bag from Ghost Cat Bags. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : The same set up as last time, a Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo tent, Patagonia hybrid sleeping bag, full NeoAir pad and a pillow for warm, dry and bug free sleeping.

Miron Golfman

Age 30 / anchorage, alaska (usa).

BIKE : 9ZERO7 Passage, GRX 810, 48-31T, Nexte carbon rims, Son Dynamo front hub, RaceFace Vault rear, Teravail Rutland 700x47mm. BAGS : TDF custom frame bag, Tailfin rear rack and bag, Revelate feed bags and Mag Tank 2000. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Ibex clothing kit, Sea to Summit Spark 18 with ground cloth, K-light MTB front and rear dynamo lights & Fenix HM61R V2.0 helmet light, GPS Wahoo Roam.

Bahadır Gungor

Age 34 / goteborg (sweden).

BIKE : Brother Cycles Big bro 29er, Curve Walmer bars 55cm, SRAM AXS X01/Force mullet setup, Absolute black 36T chainring, Hope rotors and RX4+ calipers, wheels are WTB CZR i30’s laced with Sapim CX rays onto a DT 350 in the back and SP Dynamo in the front. Tires are 2.35″ Mezcals. Profile Design A35 aerobars with 30mm spacers. Full Klite kit for lightning and charging duties. BAGS : Custom frame bag by THLP BAGS, custom roll top and ditty bags by Nimbus Packs. The rest is Revelate gear. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Very excited to run a dynamo setup for the first time and not having to stress about power banks or my lights lasting through the night. Many friends helped me get this bike together, so a shout out to them!

Age 46 / Gibsons, British Columbia (Canada)

BIKE : I’ll be riding (not racing) the Tour Divide on a 2014 Salsa Fargo. Rolling on Vittoria Mezcal 2.1” tires, 1×11 drivetrain with a 36x51T low, and SP dynamo in front. BAGS : Rockgeist partial frame bag, Tailfin rear thinger, Revelate harness, top tube bag and feedbags, Apidura bags on the forks, with bottle cages added with King Cage USBs. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Big Agnes Copper Spur, Nemo pad, down quilt, eTrex 20. Custom mini fender on the front from my LBS, thanks Elphi Cycles!

BIKE : Cannondale Topstone with RockShox Rudy fork. Zipp 101 wheels & 45mm Pirelli Cinturato Gravel M tires. Eagle 10x52T with a 36T Quark up front for measuring the 64w I’ll be pushing most of the time. BAGS : Restrap bags over, under and throughout. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Helium bivy & 28 degree bag. 2 Velocio chamois because life is too short for crusty bunz. Everything and the kitchen sink. Only thing I’m missing is an electric bear fence.

Age 28 / Canberra (Australia)

BIKE : Custom Built Hunt Bikes Landcruiser v2. Sram AXS drivetrain with White Industries MR30 Cranks. Running a 34T on the front with 10-50T on the rear. Klite lighting setup and navigation powered by Dynamo hub. I’ll be running the ol’ faithful 2.2” Maxxis Ikon’s. BAGS : Custom Hungry frame and feed bags, Porcelain Rocket seat bag, Diy front roll setup. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My favourite bits of kit would have to be my tent and filming setup. I use a Zpacks Solo tent which makes for a roomy sleep and super light carry weight. As an adventure filmmaker I also love to bring along my cameras and drone. (watch this space for a 2023 TD film!)

Erik Larson

Age 53 / tucson, arizona (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be racing the Tour Divide on a 2020 Cutthroat. Very little changed from my 2021 border to border run except that I have added a Lauf fork so I yell a little less at the washboards. I run a SON Dynamo hub to keep the lights on and I’m riding on a pair of Fleecer Ridge tires (endurance). GRX 1x with a 36T Wolf Tooth ring up front and a 42T on the back to keep spinning over the passes. BAGS : Revalate for the most part with a custom shelter bag to protect my house GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : ZPack Hexamid Pocket Tarp to keep the rain/snow off.

Age 41 / Lutsen, Minnesota (USA)

BIKE : Salsa Cutthroat. BAGS : Cedaero, JPaks, Salsa, Revelate. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Sheltering with my trusty Ray-Way Tarp which has been my go-to shelter for over ten years. Navigating via Hammerhead Karoo 2.

Justinas Leveika

Age 34 / tolga (norway).

BIKE : Trek Procaliber SL. Monstercross, dropbars and 100mm suspension at the front. Hunt XC beyond wheels with dynamo powering Supernova M99 DY pro light. BAGS : Tailfin R&D bags, top tube, frame bag, rear rack. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : I have never used a dynamo before, but this race might change my opinion.

Jared Linzmeier

Age 38 / amherst junction, wisconsin (usa).

BIKE : I am so excited to experience this route! I’m riding a Mason InSearchOf. I have been very happy with the Vittoria Mezcals so I’ve got a new pair of 2.35” mounted both front and rear with Tubolight foam inserts. SRAM Rival / GX Eagle AXS wireless 12-speed hybrid groupset, 32T chainring, Hunt H Impact All Mtn carbon rims with a SON Dynamo hub up front. Lighting and charging by Sinewave Beacon. Ritchey Venturemax bars and Fizik Terra Argo saddle. Fox 34 stepcast fork. Profile Designs aero bars. Shimano XT PD-T8000 pedals with one side flats. BAGS : I’ve got a custom frame bag from Buckhorn in Fayetteville. I got to meet Sam and check out his workshop while I was riding in Arkansas earlier this year. For my seat bag I am planning to go with an Oveja Negra Gearjammer L bag (Wack Pack colors for fun), top tube Revelate Mag Tank 2000, Randi Jo Fab custom Ruby Coffee pocket tender stem/feed bags, Rockgeist dry bag and armadillo protector and Horton pouch mounted to the Goodday Curiosity spacer cradle. Tailfin small bag on the downtube on a Tailfin mount. I’ve been pretty happy with the Osprey Seral 7 hip pack so I’ll probably bring that too for some added snack storage and additional hydration. UL Apidura 13L backpack for extra capacity from resupply spots. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : MLD bivy, Enlightened Equipment quilt and puffy, Montbell down pants, rain and some riding gear from Albion, sun sleeves, Pearl Izumi X Alp Summit shoes, NRS socks, showers pass gloves, merino wool layers from Black Diamond and Smartwool. Merino cap from Randi Jo. Wahoo Roam for nav. As much instant coffee from my company, Ruby, as I can pack into the crevices!

John O’Malley

Age 64 / christchurch (new zealand).

BIKE : Salsa Cutthroat with 1×11 30/11-46T drivetrain, Brooks Cambium C17 saddle, Profile T3 aerobars with 70mm risers, Maxis Ikon 2.2” tires, Son Dynamo hub and KLite front and taillights. BAGS : Mixture of Revelate, Apidura and BBD bags plus a Paper Roads dry bag up front. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Macpac Bivy, Therm-a-Rest Z-Lite foam pad and Sea to Summit Spark II sleeping bag.

Sue O’Malley

BIKE : I will be riding a Salsa Cutthroat with a 30-11/51T drivetrain, Profile T3 aerobars, SON dynamo, Supernova front and rear lights (plus a KLite rear light), Cambium C17 seat, Maxis Ikon 2.2″ tires. BAGS : I will be using a mixture of bags from Revelate framebag and feedbags, Revelate Pronghorn handle bar roll, Apidura seat bag, BBD Top Tube Garage. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Macpac Bivy, Therm-a-Rest Z-Lite foam pad and Sea to Summit Spark II sleeping bag.

Zach McCandless

Age 28 / canon city, colorado (usa).

BIKE : I will be piloting a 2023 Otso Fenrir. The bike consists of a stainless steel frame with a Enve Carbon Mountain Fork. The Fenrir is equipped with a mixed 1×11 drivetrain and a 34T chainring. The Fenrir is rolling on Vittoria Mezcal 2.35″ tires mounted on a 29″ Industry Nine Trail S wheelset. BAGS : My bike is saddled up with Revelate Designs and Bedrock Bags. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Chamoisless and afraid.

Hank McCullough

Age 61 / greenville, south carolina (usa).

BIKE : I will be racing the 2023 Tour Divide on a 2019 Salsa Cutthroat set up with a Sram AXS drivetrain (34/10-50T). NOX Teocalli carbon hoops laced to a Son 28 dyno hub and DT Swiss 350 rear hub. Backside protected by a 3-D printed Specialized Power saddle (155), to the extent that is possible! Klite Gravel system for lighting. BAGS : Bags are mostly stock. Salsa frame bag. 14L Terrapin, harness, feedbags and legacy zip front pocket from Revelate and a huge top tube bag made by the Strempkes at Dispersed Bike. MLD dry bag in the harness. Three large bottles on the fork and feed bag, and an extra 2L bladder when needed. Top compartment of the frame bag is almost entirely dedicated to food and extra water; bottom all the sundries I hope not to use. Rain gear in front pocket for easy access. Bear spray goes in a small hip pack from Hyperlite Mountain Gear that I can stash at some point. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Old man decided a good sleep (my goal is to hotel it as much as possible) is worth an extra 12 oz., so my shelter will be a Six Moons Design Lunar Solo Tent versus a bivy. Western Mountaineering 30 deg bag and Big Agnes Zoom UL pad complete the sleep system. Using a Garmin 1040 Solar for navigation with a Wahoo Elemnt Bolt V1 and Ride with GPS as back-up. Definitely not the lightest set up but intended to get me to the end unscathed.

Matt Miller

Age 48 / frytown, iowa (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be riding a 2021 Salsa Cutthroat GRX 600. The wheels are DT SWISS XM 421 with a Son dynamo hub up front and a DT Swiss 350 in the back. The tires are Vittoria Mezcals and the saddle is a Brooks B17. BAGS : In the back I have a Tailfin Aeropack with 10L panniers. The frame bag is by Rogue Panda and the front forks have Salsa Anything cages with Revelate Polecat bags. In the cockpit, I’m using Profile Designs Sonic Ergo aerobars, Revelate Designs feedbags and a Salsa EXP top tube bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My tent is the bikepacking version of the Big Agnes Tiger Wall UL2. My sleeping bag is a 30 degree Nemo Moonwalk paired with a Klymit Static V pad. For lighting, I have an Exposure Revo powered by the dynamo hub.

Arya Tenzin Namdol

Age 38 / hadlyme, connecticut (usa).

BIKE : Crust/Rons Bikes Alumalith with Ultradynamico Mars 27.5 x 2.2″ and Cava 2.2″ Robusto tires around Crust rims and Paul touring cantilever brakes. Late 90s era Shimano XTR and and Campoagnolo Record shifted with Shimano and Suntour bar end shifters with a Sugino PX crankset. BAGS : Ron’s bikes small X11 Fabio’s chest and Rivendell Sackville Banana sack in the rear. Rani Jo bartender stem bags and a custom X11 frame bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : This bike has so much polished aluminum that I think it is technically all highlights!

Ezra Ward-Packard

Age 29 / vanlife, wisconsin (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be racing the 2023 Tour Divide on a Fezzari Shafer frameset with an MRP Baxter 60mm fork. The wheelset is a Schmidt SON dynamo front and DT Swiss 350 rear laced into Velocity Blunt SS rims. Vittoria Mezcal 700 x 42mm front and rear with Cushcore XC plus Stan’s Race sealant. Drivetrain is a mix of Shimano Ultegra and GRX. Gearing is 46/30T x 11-42T with a 4iiii power meter. Cockpit is a Zipp Service Course handlebars and Ebay stem plus a hodgepodge TT bar set-up. BAGS : Porcelain Rocket Mr. Fusion seat pack. Restrap half frame bag and long top tube bag. Heavily modified Revelate Designs Sweet Roll handlebar roll connected to a Salsa EXP Series bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Sleep system is a Magma 30 sleeping bag, Therm-a-Rest Uberlight pad, and an ultralight tarp. Cycling kit is all Pearl Izumi plus an Outdoor Research Superstrand LT hoodie. Key electronics are a Sinewave Cycles Beacon, Garmin 530, Spot Gen 3, and Dexcom G6 Continuous Blood Glucose Monitor (Type 1 Diabetic).

Danielle Quinn

Age 26 / no man’s land (usa).

BIKE : After riding (not racing) the Tour Divide in 2022, I have decided to do it again this year, northbound. Tried and true, I am using the same set up as my first ride: my trusty All City Cycles Gorilla Monsoon (aka Sofi) with a fresh pair of Vittoria Mezcal 2.1” tires. Sofi also is rocking a new 1×11 drivetrain with a 36T chainring, and a totally hot KMC X11SL gold chain. Sonic Ergo Aero Bars for an illusion of speed. Everything else is exactly what I used last year. BAGS : It was difficult finding bags that accommodate an XS frame, but the Revelate Tangle frame bag and Revelate Terrapin 14L seatpost bag still leave me with some tire clearance and space for a 4L Cranktank. I also am using the Revelate Mountain Feedbags, Jerrycan, and Magtank 2000. Revelate Polecats reside on the fork, and Sea to Summit stuffsacks fit everything else. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : TRP HY/RD mechanical/hydraulic brakes allow me to stop and smell the flowers with my partner Oz, and my Wahoo Element will be joining me once more to prevent wrong turns Oz may take in smelling said flowers. Unlike last year, I’m making the experience more comfortable and have opted to bring a tent and stove, my Hubba Hubba NX2 and a Jetboil.

Stuart Rose

Age 57 / calgary, alberta (canada).

BIKE : I will be riding the TD on 2016 Kona Raijin titanium hardtail 29er. Modified to drop bars with Force 22 shifters, Ratio conversion, eThirteen 9x50T, 12-speed cassette and Absolute Black oval 32 chainring. Force brakes upgraded to Hope Rx4+ callipers. Salsa Cutthroat carbon fork. Continental Race Kings 29×2.2″ set up tubeless with Stans. Profile Design Airstryke 5 aero bars. Brooks C17 saddle. BAGS : A mixture of Rockgiest, Revelate Mountain Equipment Coop bags. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2 tent, Katadyn BeFree water filter and Pedalcel dynamo for charging the electronics. Nimble Champ 10000mAh to back up the Pedalcel. Garmin Edge 810 for navigation.

Nathan Salle

Age 27 / richmond, virginia (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be riding a 2020 Salsa Cutthroat with an AXS mullet set up and a 100mm front fork, makes for a comfy and rowdy ride! BAGS : Running a mix of brands but all centered around the massive Salsa frame bag to stuff full of food and other goodies. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Got myself a classic SON dynamo hub to a Sinewave Beacon light. Will be riding on my trusty 2.4″ Mezcals and trying to keep things simple and clean!

Andrew Salmons

Swansea, wales (united kingdom).

BIKE : Brother Mehteh with mainly GRX gearing and brakes and 650b wheels plus goodyear connector tyres. SP hub out front with an Igaru D2 to keep the lights on. BAGS : Restrap holster behind the saddle and a medium frame bag, Ortlieb supply the barbag (QR) and a 4L fork pack. I’ll also wear a Osprey hipack for bits and pieces plus a reservoir for the dryer sections of the ride. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Six Moon Designs Deschutes tarp for some shelter plus an Alpkit Kloke bivi bag and Cloud Cover duvet for a comfy nights sleep. Sea to Summet UL insulated mat and pillow. Showing me the way is a Garmin Edge Explore 2 with my phone as a backup.

Christopher Schmidt

Age 48 / lake geneva, wisconsin (usa).

BIKE : aka “Mulletsa” is back again this year. Classic Salsa Cutty with SRAM AXS Eagle drivetrain, 34T chainring, 10-52T cassette, and SRAM RED AXS Road shifters. 3T flip aero bars mounted on a Fred bar with an Enve Carbon Gravel 48cm handlebar complete the cockpit. Wheelset: Bontrager Carbon/SON Dynamo Hub up front with a HED Belgium/Industry Nine Hub in the rear on a fresh set of Vittoria Mezcal 2.1” tires. Fork by Fox is the 32 Float SC 29 Factory Boost. Shimano XTR pedals. BAGS : Apidura aerobar pack, Tailfin on the top tube, Revelate feedbags, custom Rockgeist framebag, Brooks drybag and Salsa EXP front pouch strapped to Tailfin carbon arch/Aeropack frame. 3L Hydrapak bag in hiding.

GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : A Montbell Breeze Dry-Tec Sleeping Bag cover as my Bivvy resting on a small Therm-a-Rest Neo-Air sleeping pad. Sleep kit completed by a custom Nunatak down-filled half bag (aka the “JayP skirt”) down below, a Montbell ultralight puffy up top, and a Zpacks tarp overhead in a pinch. Lighting is a K-lite MTB kit.

David Schultz

Age 55 / duluth, minnesota (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be riding a 2020 Salsa Cutthroat, with Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge tires and Fox 32 fork. Wheels are Velocity Blunts with an Onyx hub in back and Son Dynamo up front. BAGS : Cedaero Frame, Top Tube, Wedge and Devil’s Draw bags. Up front is a Salsa Anything Cradle with Top Load Bag. In back, a Tailfin rack with trunk top bag and 64oz Kleen Kanteen bottles mounted to the rack. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : A Big Agnes Copper Spur HV UL2 tent, Sea to Summit pad and Enlightened Equipment quilt. I’ll be using a Garmin 1030 Plus for navigation.

Tom Schwemberger

Age 27 / eugene, oregon (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be racing aboard a Lauf Seigla with an AXS Eagle drivetrain and 40T Garbaruk chainring. Wheels are from Elite and tires will be 2.0″ Pirelli gravel-M. BAGS : All of my bags are from 7Roads in Ukraine. Custom frame and top tube bags are waterproof PVC fabric. The saddlebag is supported by a mini-rack which stops any swaying. I’m also running feed bags and a small handlebar bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My hammock. I’m racing and planning to go fast, but sleeping comfortably.

Indiana Schulz

Age 39 / coal valley, illinois (usa).

BIKE : I’ll enjoy the Tour Divide on Medúlla, my 2022 Lauf Seigla with 520mm PNW Coast drop bars, Profile Design T1+ 70mm risers, and Redshift Cruise Control grips. Traction comes from a 2.1″ Mezcal in the rear with a 2.2″ Race King in the front. Wheels are DERBY carbon with White Industries rear and Son front hubs. A SRAM 10-52T cassette with a 34T Wolf Tooth Oval chainring provides an excellent range for climbing and the flats. BAGS : Custom Rockgeist half-frame pack and top tube bag. Revelate Designs Egress Pocket up front. An extra Lezyne top tube bag near the seatpost for tools and an Amazon top tube bag between the aero bars for toiletries. I’m excited to try the Tailfin rack paired with the Revelate Designs Terrapin 14L dry bag. On my back, I will have an Oveja Negra Royale hip pack. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : I’m dealing with a lower back injury, so I have a custom cam buckle system to help carry the bike up Koko Claims and any peanut butter mud we may encounter. I hope the Gossamer Gear Thinlight pad provides some comfort for my bivy and extra insulation. I also have a Sinewave Cycles Beacon V2 with rasta colors that arrived a week before the race. Jah!

Scott Shannon

Age 64 / cazenovia, new york (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be riding (not racing) the Tour Divide on a 2022 BXT carbon gravel rig- it has been christened as the Chen Fang (the ‘Fang!) celebrating our shared Chinese heritage. The bike features a new pair of Vittoria Mezcal 2.25” tires, a SRAM Rival 1×11 mullet drivetrain with a 34T chainring on Rotor 3D+ crankset, RYET 9-46T cassette, and Hunt 650b Adventure Sport wheels. Brakes are Juin Tech-GT cable actuated hydraulic discs. Finally, the cockpit includes a Redshift Shockstop stem with a 52cm PNW Coast bar, and I’ll be sitting on a trusty Sella Italia SLR saddle on a Ritchey classic aluminum post. BAGS : My bag setup includes a Revelate Tangle Frame bag, a pair of Revelate Polecat drybags mounted TO Blackburn Outpost cargo cages on the fork, A Blackburn Outpost seat bag, and a Topeak Frontroller handlebar roll. A Restrap top tube bag and Revelate Egress front pocket round out the cargo options, with various bungies and shock-cord options to lash on whatever needs to be handy. Four 24oz bottles will be mounted to the fork and frame cages, with room to add another pair of 1 liter bottles on the seatpack. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : A Nemo Hornet Elite tent will serve as my shelter, along with a OMVMO 20F down bag and Big Agnes AXL Air Mat. For camp comfort after a long day in the saddle, I’m dragging along my Helios Zero chair, come hell or high water! I’ll be navigating with a Garmin 1040 Solar.

Brook Smith

Age 40 / toronto, ontario (canada).

BIKE : Salsa Cutthroat 600 x1 with 34T on a Quarq PM, waxed chain and 11/46T cassette. I built up a set of Light Bike/Hope hub wheels that have been solid for years. I have some fresh 2.35″ Mazcels, and a double wrap of rim tape. BAGS : I made all my bags excluding the tail bag, which is by Ortlieb. They have #10 Vislon zippers with a liteskin & XV-21 X-Pac fabric. The top tube bag is a monster with 2L+ of storage. The front bag (6L) is an “aero” shape that is accessible from the top while riding. The frame bag houses 2L of water and anything else that is heavy, like food, batteries, tools, tubes etc. I’m wearing a modified CamelBak Chase Backpack. It contains another 2L of water and passport/Food/Money/tp/butt kit/etc, anything I need if my bike rides off without me. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : I’m rocking an OR Interstellar Rain Jacket and Helium Rain Pants. Sleep system is OR Helium Bivy, Therm-a-Rest Hyperion 0°C, Therm-a-Rest NeoAir XLite, eye shades, ear plug and a Polycryo ground sheet. I made an Apha Direct hoodie, pant & scarf as a mid layer. I intend to pick up bottles for any stretch where I need more than 4L of water. I’m not using a dynamo but instead carrying a Nitecore NB20000 which takes only ~2h to charge to 75%. Huge thanks to Bateman’s Bike Co. for getting me set up for this ride.

Justin Smith

Age 40 / santa cruz, california (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be smiling on my 2020 Cutthroat with a modified GRX 800 1×11 drivetrain/ RaceFace Next SL cranks with 32T OVAL paired with a 10-46T will keep my Mezcals rolling through the hillsides. I’ll be resting my toosh on a Koda and my hands on some lizard skin bar tape. Nothing else too fancy to speak of. BAGS : Three Revelate bags including my well-used Terrapin with my sleep kit, Jerry Can and a stem bag. My frame bag and top tube bag are both Salsa and a borrowed Apidura handlebar bag that finished TD once with a friend. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : No dynamo here so I’m trusting my battery bank to keep my Fenix 30 BCR, Inreach, and iPhone topped up. My trusty Etrex 20 and Fenix helmet light run on AA. An REI flash tent and magma quilt will rest on Big Agnes sleeping mat. I love my Big Agnes puffy jacket, waterproof socks, and OR Helium for the wet weather. I’ll be enjoying some tunes and a family photo with my 4 year-old and incredible wife who are the real ones that are making this possible.

Age 37 / San Francisco, California (USA)

BIKE : I’ll be riding the 2023 Tour Divide on a custom built Cutthroat. Build highlights include Hunt wheels with a SON dynamo featuring Vittoria Mezcals, SRAM 1x AXS drivetrain with 32T in the front and 52T in the back, and Cowchipper drop bars with Profile Designs aero bars. BAGS : I’m using a standard Revelate bag setup using the Revelate Ripio, Jerrycan, Mag-tank 2000, Spinelock, and Harness with a Pocket bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My shelter consists of a Zpacks Plex Solo tent, Zpacks 20 degree mummy bag, and a Neoair XLite NXT. I’m also carrying a Rab Xenon and merino wool baselayers in addition to full rain gear to ensure I can weather cold storms.

Age 64 / Brisbane, Queensland (Australia)

BIKE : I’ll be riding (not racing) the Tour Divide on a 2021 Salsa Cutthroat. The ‘beast’ is shod with Vittoria Mezcal 2.25” tyres on Curve Dirt Hoops. Drivetrain is a Ratio Tech conversion to 12-speed, 34T and 10-52T cassette. Pedalcell to recharge all the gizmos. Design Profile aerobars. Specialised Power Pro mirror saddle. BAGS : Tumbleweed T-Rack a carries a 20L Sea to Summit River bag and two Salsa fork bags. Revelate Harness holds a 13L River bag. Revelate accessory bag for food. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Z-pack tent, Nemo Tensor Alpine Ultralight Mountaineering Pad and Sea to Summit Spark ultralight Sleeping bag. Garmin 1040 Solar and backup Android RidewithGPS. Family insisted on a GoPro. MSR cooker and coffee bags for caffeine crises.

Age 42 / Rocklin, California (USA)

BIKE : I will be riding a Poseidon Redwood with 1×11 SRAM DoubleTap with 30T chainring, and 29” 2.1 Vittoria Mezcal Tires. Saddle is a Brooks Cambium All Weather C17. Lights are 2x Light & Motion Vis 1000 and I will be using a Wahoo Elemnt Roam to navigate. BAGS : Revelate Sweetroll with Egress Pocket, Reveleate 16L Spinelock Seat Bag, Revelate Mag-Tank 2000, Salsa Frame bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Almost all the components on the bike were pulled from other bikes to make this rig. I love the Spinelock seat bag! Sleep system is a Helium bivy, UL sleeping bag and inflatable pad. I have 4L of water in the frame bag and will be filtering with Katadyn BeFree 1L bags.

Francis Sutherland

Age 66 / calgary, alberta (canada).

BIKE : 2019 Salsa Cutthroat. BAGS : Tailfin and Revelate frame bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Improved carrying capacity with Tailfin and less weight with Big Agnes Scout 1 Platinum tent. Planning to tent more and perhaps do an ITT and start a little early than last attempt in 2019. Using an InReach for communication, Mezcal 2.1″ tires and lower gearing 46/32T.

Sarah Swallow

Age 35 / durango, colorado (usa).

BIKE : I am riding an Otso Fenrir Titanium Drop Bar with a RockShox SID SL Ultimate 100mm fork, SRAM XX1 Eagle AXS drivetrain, RED eTap shift-brake levers, and a Wolf Tooth 32T oval chainring. I am running prototype Tumbleweed 52cm handlebars and Specialized aero bars and am using a Zipp 3ZERO MOTO rear wheel and a Roval Traverse Carbon front wheel laced to a SON Dynamo hub, both are equipped with Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge tires. BAGS : Rogue Panda custom frame bag, Oveja Negra Gearjammer seat bag and snack pack, Fjallraven Top Tube Bag, an old Porcelain Rocket front harness, a Wolf Tooth B-RAD bag, Rockgeist Horton Front Pouch, Ultra PE Dry Bag, Spacelink, and two Honeypot bags. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My favorite piece of gear are my Ombraz Armless Sunglasses. My sleep system consists of a Mountain Laurel Designs Event Soul Bivy and Monk Flat Tarp (I’m excited for the extra security of the tarp after being rained on for 1,000 miles during the 2021 Great Divide Classic), a Klymt Ozone sleep pad paired with a quarter of a Therm-a-Rest Zlite (which doubles as my sit pad as well) and a Western Mountaineering Summerlite Sleeping Bag. For navigation, I use a Garmin Edge 1040 Solar and my phone with Ride with GPS app (for POIs and cue sheet). I am using a Sinwave headlight and a Ricoh GR II camera.

John Thomas

Age 68 / hamden, connecticut (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be riding a top of the line 2022 salsa cutthroat with SRAM X01 Eagle AXS, fancy-pants bicycle. Given last year’s supply chain challenges for all things bicycle, it was the only Cutthroat I could find in my size (54). That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it, largely because I love the bike. I changed the chainring to 32T. Cassette is 10-52T. Did I mention that I’m old? I have added a SON 28 dynamo front hub that connects (in the top tube bag) to a Sinewave Revolution USB charger. I have an Apidura 3.5-liter bladder in the frame bag and I’ll add bottle cages and 1-liter bottles to the front fork for the arid sections. I’ll be rolling Reynolds TR 249 wheels shod with Vittoria Mezcal 2.35” tires, perched on a WTB Gravel saddle, and (occasionally) leaning on carbon, Profile Design aero bars affixed to 70mm risers. BAGS : Frame bag is a Salsa direct mount. Top tube bag, mini panniers, and rear rack and bag are Tailfin products. The aero bars bag is a custom, Class 4 Designs, creation. Bag slung from the handlebars houses my Big Agnes Fly Creek tent. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My favorite bits of gear have nothing to do with my bicycle and everything to do with my metastatic cancer. I’ll be dragging along a GoPro and drone to document the journey for the Prostate Cancer Foundation. My story is here .

George Uehling

Age 30 / charlottesville, virginia (usa).

BIKE : I’ll be riding a 2020 Salsa Cutthroat GRX810. The drivetrain is updated with a 30T chainring and 10-42T cassette. There is a power meter in the spindle and Profile Designs aero bars in the cockpit. The Son Dynamo powers the Sinewave Beacon for lights and all the electronics, and the tires are Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge. The derailleur and rear wheel are new after the last ones were wrecked on the TransVirginia 550. BAGS : The frame bag is the OEM Salsa bag with a lot of custom seam-sealing. Under the downtube is a Wolftooth bag for spare parts, and everything else is Revelate (seat bag, feed bags, top tube, and jerry can). GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : My shelter is a Gossamer Gear tarp and an Enlightened Equipment quilt that I’ve been using for a few years. The tarp is as light as a bivy, but gives me more space at the cost of bug protection. Navigation is a Garmin Edge 530 and communication is a Garmin InReach and an iPhone for backup navigation.

Maarten Vanhaverbeke

Age 38 / brakel, flemish ardennes (belgium).

BIKE : I’m a professional bike mechanic, so the gear nerding goes deep. This is my best effort keep it short but detailed. Steel Mason InSearchOf frame with carbon fork, SRAM 1×12 electronic shifting (Force/X01 mullet), Shimano XT crankset, XT 10-51T cassette (yes, it works with the SRAM shifting), XT chain, Wolf Tooth 34T chainring, René Herse Fleecer Ridge tires, hand-built SON dynamo and DT Swiss 240 wheelset (shout-out to SWS Wheels), KLite lights and charger, 46cm Ritchey Beacon drop bars, double layer of Wolf Tooth bar tape (5+2.5mm = comfort). What else? Redshift suspension stem, Ritchey aerobars with SRAM shifting blips, XT pedals, Specialized Power saddle, Reverse Fillmore valves, Orange Seal sealant, SRAM HS2 rotors, SwissStop brake pads. BAGS : On the rather unique load bearing Mason ISO front fender I’ve strapped a 5L Alpkit drybag (sleeping bag and liner). Two Revelate Designs feedbags on the handlebar (snacks). All other bags are Apidura: 6L full frame pack (hydration and food), long top tube pack (electronics), 7L racing saddle pack (clothing), downtube pack (repair stuff), 2x 3L fork pack (tent/layers). King Cage Manything cages to support those last three bags. No backpack. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Drinking from a Apidura 3L hydration bladder and a 1.5L Hydrapak bladder and filter. Sleep kit: Nordisk Lofoten tent, Cumulus X-Lite 400 down sleeping bag and a Therm-a-Rest UberLite mattress. Petzl Tikka headlamp for extra light. Garmin Edge 1040 Solar for navigation and an Edge 530 as backup. Inreach tracker. And last but not least: Assos bib shorts.

Romain Wartel

Age 42 / french alps.

BIKE : Orange French touch! I will ride a modified Lapierre Pro Race SAT CF 9.9 mountain bike. Cockpit is a Redshift Kitchen Sink handlebar with Profile Design aerobars, with SRAM Force AXS shifters + wireless blips. The 10-52T cassette paired with a Wolf Tooth 36T chaining will hopefully allow for enough range throughout the route. Race King 2.2″ ProTection tires should be a good balance between speed, comfort and puncture protection. They let me down badly during the Atlas Mountain Race, but the Tour Divide should be less demanding and I apparently don’t learn from my mistakes. A SON Dynamo Hub + Exposure Revo, and an Exposure Diablo will make the nights brighter and charge electronics. BAGS : ByMarion&Quentin created the frame bags and food pouch, complemented by an Apidura saddle bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : As an emergency + sleeping kit, I will be relying on a Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer 1000FP down jacket and Lifesystems Ultralight Survival Shelter. A Salomon trail running bag will provide an extra water capacity and carry extra food, which should hopefully nicely fit under the Salomon Bonatti Trail waterproof jacket. I elected to take removable SKS mud guards to help protect the transmission and rider against the rain and dust, but clearly they will come off when peanut butter mud is coming.

Kellie Wilson

Age 42 / fort worth, texas (usa).

BIKE : Monē LaRoca, Shimano XT drivetrain w/ custom mounted shifter, Enve M60 rims, DT Swiss 240 hubs, jumped on the Mezcal train (27.5 x 2.35″), Monē drop bars, Chester pedals, Brooks B17 saddle. BAGS : Custom Rockgeist frame bag, Rockgeist XL Cache top tube bag, Rockgeist Honeypot feedbag, Swift Industries Zeitgeist bag and Revelate Egress pocket on the bars, and a Bags by Bird Piccolo bag under the saddle. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Big Agnes one-person tent, Big Agnes sleeping bag, Sea to Summit pad, mostly wool for the clothing, my trusty Lockjaw knife, and Vortex binoculars for the cool birds along the way.

Wes Whittle

Age 43 / sydney, nsw (australia).

BIKE : Curve GMX+, Curve Carbon Dirt Hoops 29, SP Dynamo Hub, Klite USB & lighting system, Curve Walmer Bars, Curve Seek 430 fork, E Thirteen 9-46t cassette, Wolf Tooth SS 32t chainring, Crankbrothers large Stamp 7 pedals, Profile Designs aero bars, Race Face carbon cranks, Hope seat post, Hope RX4 brakes, Ergon SR Men Pro saddle, Vittoria Mezcal 2.25″ (front), Herse Fleecer Ridge 2.2″ (rear). BAGS : Custom full frame bag by Terra Nova, Apidura Racing Long Top tube bag, 2 x Nuclear Sunrise Stitchworks Giant Silo feed bags, Bike Bad Dude Handlebar Sling, Sea to Summit Big River drybag 13L, Apidura Hip bag. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : The GMX+ is littered with mounting points which allows me to carry 2.7L of water on the downtube and still have space for a full frame bag. Also, quite keen on the Tailfin micro cages I’ve got for the front forks. I don’t like wearing a backpack, so if I need an expandable storage solution, can strap stuff onto these. Finally, after a cold, wet and windy Monaro Cloudride (in Australia), I’ve ditched the bivy and picked up a Big Agnes Fly Creek tent, for some serious luxury!

Lael Wilcox

Age 36 / tucson, arizona (usa).

BIKE : Specialized Epic Hardtail with dropbars. Rockhox SID 100mm suspension fork. SRAM AXS 1x shifting (36T chainring, 10-52T cassette) Zipp 3ZeroMoto wheels– SON dynamo hub paired with a Sinewave Beacon headlight. Ergon saddle & bar tape. Rene Herse Fleecer Ridge tires with Endurance casing. BAGS : Revelate Designs Ranger frame bag, Pronghorn harness, Mag Tank 2000, 2x mountain feedbags, Spinelock seatpack. GEAR HIGHLIGHTS : Navigating with the Wahoo Roam. Thrilled with my Quad Lock for on the bike logistics. I’m bringing a full sleep kit this year. Excited for the race!

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Election Updates: Omar draws criticism for suggesting some Jewish students are ‘pro-genocide.’

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Maggie Astor

Omar draws criticism for suggesting some Jewish students are ‘pro-genocide.’

Representative Ilhan Omar of Minnesota, whose daughter was among the students arrested at a Columbia University protest encampment against Israel’s actions in Gaza, suggested while visiting the protesters on campus last week that some Jewish students supported genocide.

Ms. Omar, a Democrat, was rejecting the argument that the protests were antisemitic, noting that many of the participants were Jewish.

“I think it is really unfortunate that people don’t care about the fact that all Jewish kids should be kept safe, and that we should not have to tolerate antisemitism or bigotry for all Jewish students, whether they’re pro-genocide or anti-genocide,” she said.

Earlier in the week, the Republican House speaker, Mike Johnson, used his own visit to Columbia to suggest that President Biden should summon the National Guard to college campuses, a prospect that brought to mind the National Guard’s killing of four unarmed student protesters at Kent State University in Ohio during the Vietnam War. He was accompanied by his Republican colleague Anthony D’Esposito, who accused the pro-Palestinian protesters of being “proud that you’ve been endorsed by Hamas.”

Representative Jared Moskowitz of Florida, who came to Columbia with other Democrats who support Israel, likened some protesters to the white nationalists who marched in Charlottesville, Va., in 2017.

And at Washington University in St. Louis, the Green Party presidential candidate Jill Stein joined a demonstration and was arrested along with dozens of other protesters.

As pro-Palestinian student protests have spread and intensified in the wake of a police crackdown at Columbia , a procession of politicians have visited campuses with words of support or condemnation. The visits underscore how profoundly the protests have become intertwined with American politics — and the extent to which many elected officials are taking sides on what, if not for the police response and the statements from national figures, might have been a small subplot in the much larger story of what is happening in Gaza.

Ms. Omar’s suggestion that some Jewish students were pro-genocide drew backlash, with the Anti-Defamation League’s leader calling it “blood libel” and CNN asking Senator Bernie Sanders of Vermont on Sunday whether he was “comfortable” with it. (Mr. Sanders, who is Jewish and supports the protests, said that opposition to antisemitism was Ms. Omar’s “essential point,” and that “the word ‘genocide’ is something that is being determined by the International Court of Justice.”)

Ms. Omar responded to the A.D.L. criticism by citing comments reported by Palestinian and other Arab students at the University of Massachusetts Amherst, including “kill all Arabs” and “level Gaza.” She wrote on social media , “This is the pro-genocide I was talking about, can you condemn this like I have condemned antisemitism and bigotry of all kind?”

The campus visits began last Monday with the group of pro-Israel Democrats: Mr. Moskowitz, Daniel Goldman of New York, Josh Gottheimer of New Jersey and Kathy Manning of North Carolina. In an interview with CNN afterward, Mr. Moskowitz referred to comments like “Go back to Poland” and said, “I know the people saying this aren’t, you know, white Aryan males with tiki torches, but they have the same message.”

At many points, there has been a divide between student encampments — which have been peaceful and have included many Jewish participants — and demonstrations just off campus, where some people have made overtly antisemitic comments.

Mr. Johnson, the House speaker, visited Columbia on Wednesday with several other House Republicans: Mr. D’Esposito, Mike Lawler and Nicole Malliotakis of New York, and Virginia Foxx of North Carolina.

Mr. Johnson met privately with Jewish students, then called on Mr. Biden to bring in the National Guard and on Congress to “revoke federal funding to these universities if they can’t keep control.” He said, referring to antisemitism, “Powerful people have refused to condemn it, and some have even peddled it themselves.”

Some of the protesters jeered him, and one pro-Israel counterprotester dismissed his visit as “a political stunt.”

That visit, in turn, came a week after the event that precipitated the escalation of the protests: The president of Columbia, Nemat Shafik, who goes by Minouche, testified before a congressional committee under questioning led by Representative Elise Stefanik, Republican of New York, who has grilled a series of college presidents over allegations that they were failing to combat antisemitism on campus.

Ms. Shafik called the New York Police Department to break up a pro-Palestinian encampment the next day. More than 100 students were arrested, but the protesters rebuilt the encampment, and the protests quickly spread to other campuses nationwide.

Mr. Johnson and his group were followed by Ms. Omar, who was followed by two other Democrats from the progressive “Squad” — Representatives Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez and Jamaal Bowman of New York, who met with the protesters at Columbia to express support.

And hundreds of miles away, at Washington University in St. Louis, Ms. Stein was arrested on Saturday along with dozens of students.

Jazmine Ulloa

Reporting from Washington

Koch group attacks Biden on the economy, hoping to engage Latino voters.

The Libre Initiative, part of the political network created by the billionaire industrialist Koch brothers, on Monday will unveil a seven-figure voter engagement effort and ad campaign targeting members of Congress who have supported what it calls President Biden’s “punitive economic policies.”

The campaign, one of the most expansive undertaken by the group, will include digital ads, public events at Hispanic grocery stores and restaurants and a new Spanish language website criticizing “Bidenomics,” a term that conservatives have adopted to attack Mr. Biden’s economic policies.

Despite a run of positive economic data, including strong job growth and record unemployment , the economy has been a stubborn weakness for President Biden and Democrats, particularly among Black and Latino voters . Leaders at Libre, which gave The New York Times an early look at the plans, said they were focused on attracting Latinos on what they think is a winning issue for Republicans at a time when their party is seeking to increase its appeal to Hispanic voters.

“Bidenomics is devastating Latino families’ savings, quality of life and their ability to plan for the future,” Jose Mallea, Libre’s chief executive, said in a statement. “To reverse this trend, it’s critical that Latino families learn what overspending and overregulating are doing to our country’s economy — and prosperity.”

Libre, which describes itself as a center-right organization, is a sister branch of the Koch network’s super PAC Americans for Prosperity Action, which spent tens of millions of dollars trying to elevate Nikki Haley, the former governor of South Carolina, over former President Donald J. Trump in the Republican primary. But Libre, which has its own endorsement process, did not weigh in on the contest and has so far no plans to mobilize voters in support of Mr. Trump. Americans for Prosperity Action has not waded into the 2024 presidential election since Ms. Haley left the race.

Libre leaders said the aim of their latest campaign was to hold lawmakers accountable for supporting Biden policies that the group believes have contributed to high inflation and rising costs for food, utilities and other living expenses. It is targeting more than 20 congressional Democrats in more than a dozen states, including key presidential battlegrounds like Michigan, Nevada and Pennsylvania. The group rolled out a similar effort with an anti-“Bidenomics” message last year, but organizers said this campaign would be much larger in scope.

Latinos are projected to number about 36.2 million eligible voters, or nearly 15 percent of the American electorate, according to the latest analysis by the Pew Research Center. The demographic will be crucial in states like Nevada and Arizona, where they make up roughly one in four eligible voters, and Hispanic voters are also expected to play a decisive role in the battle for control of the House .

Although Latino voters still overall lean Democratic, Mr. Trump improved his performance with the slice of voters in 2020, and in some areas like South Florida and South Texas made sizable gains. But some Republicans have told The Associated Press that they have yet to see Mr. Trump follow through on his ambitious plans to court the electoral bloc this cycle. Mr. Biden, on the other hand, has stepped his up — and has been looking to sharpen his own economic message after an earlier push to reclaim the term “Bidenomics” largely fell flat.

In a recent tour through Nevada and Arizona , the president has championed historic investments in Latino small businesses and Hispanic-serving institutions, along with Biden administration policies that he said had cut Hispanic child poverty to record lows, lowered drug prescription and health care costs and tackled gun violence.

Two Latino voter groups, Somos Votantes and Somos PAC, have also come to Mr. Biden’s aid with historic investments comparable to those from Libre. The liberal organizations have earmarked $33 million to mobilize Hispanic voters for Mr. Biden and other key Democratic races in several battleground states. Somos Votantes plans to put $24 million toward expanding nonpartisan voter education programs.

The Libre campaign, titled “BideNOmics,” is targeting Senate Democrats in Montana, Nevada, Ohio and Wisconsin. It will focus on House members in heated contests across the country. In California, where Democrats and Republicans are locked in a fight for control of seats across the central and southern parts of the state, the group is taking aim at Representatives Josh Harder and Mike Levin. In New Mexico, their list includes Representative Gabriel Vasquez, and in Colorado, Representative Yadira Caraveo, both of whom clinched their seats last cycle after defeating their Republican opponents by less than a percentage point.

A preview of one of the four digital ads expected to run on social media and television and audio streaming services features a Latina who blames the president’s policies for the demise of the American dream.

“Coming to America meant an opportunity to chart your own future,” she said. “But now, Latino families across the country are being forced to make hard choices because of skyrocketing prices, and Bidenomics is robbing us of our chance at the American dream.”

The Spanish language website — NoBidenomics.com — criticizes the Biden administration policies it says have contributed to inflation, a high national debt and an expensive cost of living. The campaign’s community events, which began last week, will largely be held at super mercados, or Hispanic grocery stores, where participants will pass out gift cards for food.

The Biden-Trump face-off settles into an odd rhythm, with Trump largely off the campaign trail.

As former President Donald J. Trump’s criminal trial in Manhattan enters its third week , the presidential campaign is settling into an odd rhythm, with one of the two major candidates barnstorming the country and the other almost entirely absent from the trail.

For as many as four days a week for the foreseeable future, Mr. Trump will again be in a courtroom, visible mostly through the prism of journalists’ dispatches and his enraged social media posts. Today, however, is an off day before the trial resumes on Tuesday.

Since the trial began two-plus weeks ago, Mr. Trump has campaigned only in solidly Democratic New York; his one attempt at a weekend rally in a swing state, North Carolina, was canceled because of weather. And he has not yet chosen a running mate who could campaign on his behalf.

That makes this Wednesday, another off day, significant for him: He has two rallies scheduled, one in Waukesha, Wis., and one in Freeland, Mich., before he has to hurry back to New York.

President Biden will hold at least one campaign event per day on Tuesday and Wednesday. Over the weekend, he made an appearance at the White House Correspondents’ Association dinner, where he mocked Mr. Trump and the public dissection of his own age: “The 2024 election’s in full swing and, yes, age is an issue. I’m a grown man running against a 6-year-old.”

Vice President Kamala Harris is also scheduled to speak about the economy on Monday in Georgia, and about abortion rights on Wednesday in Florida.

Robert F. Kennedy Jr., whose independent campaign could hurt Mr. Biden or Mr. Trump, depending on which polls you look at, will be on the campaign trail as well. After a rally on Long Island on Sunday, he has an event scheduled in Boston on Monday and is teasing a “major announcement” in Brooklyn on Wednesday.

Robert F. Kennedy Jr. says Americans are ‘voting out of fear.’

Robert F. Kennedy Jr. sought to make the case on Sunday that he can do something no third-party or independent candidate has come close to doing in modern U.S. history: win a presidential election. Although polls show him far behind, both major-party campaigns, those of President Biden and former President Donald J. Trump, view Mr. Kennedy as a potential spoiler.

Speaking at a rally on Long Island outside New York City, Mr. Kennedy cited polls that he said his campaign had conducted, showing him winning in two scenarios: one in which he faced only Mr. Biden without Mr. Trump in the race, and one in which he faced Mr. Trump without Mr. Biden.

The reason he is behind in a three-way race, he maintained, is that “so many Americans are voting out of fear.”

“Their only strategy is to try to keep me off the ballot and then to make everybody terrified of Donald Trump,” he said of Democrats, “and on the other side, they do the same thing,” he added of Republicans. “When somebody is telling you to vote out of fear, they are trying to manipulate you into abandoning your values,” he said.

Mr. Kennedy acknowledged to the crowd in Holbrook, N.Y., that Mr. Biden and Mr. Trump differed in numerous ways.

“If you look at their personalities, their dispositions, their presentation, their ideology, their approach to life, their interactions with other people, there’s a huge, huge difference,” he said.

But he argued that issues on which Mr. Biden and Mr. Trump held starkly different positions — like abortion, border security, guns and transgender rights — were “culture war issues” that “are used to divide us all.” He said that on the national debt and chronic disease — issues he called “existential for our country” — their positions weren’t materially different.

In discussing the prevalence of chronic disease, Mr. Kennedy lamented the United States’ disproportionately high death rate from the coronavirus compared with the death rate experienced by other developed countries, a disparity attributable in part to the comparatively low uptake of vaccines that Mr. Kennedy has campaigned against.

He suggested — in contradiction of scientific evidence of the safety and efficacy of Covid vaccines, and data showing higher death rates in states with lower vaccination rates — that the nation’s poor Covid performance was a mark against vaccines.

“Whatever we’re doing, whatever we did, it was wrong,” Mr. Kennedy said, referring to vaccine mandates, lockdowns and other pandemic responses.

Maggie Haberman and Nicholas Nehamas

Trump and DeSantis meet for the first time since their bruising primary clashes.

Donald J. Trump and Gov. Ron DeSantis of Florida met on Sunday morning, according to three people briefed on the meeting, the first time they’ve done so since the end of a bruising Republican presidential primary that Mr. Trump won while relentlessly attacking Mr. DeSantis.

The meeting — which took place in Hollywood, Fla., according to one of the people briefed on the meeting — was the result of a weekslong effort by a longtime friend of Mr. Trump, the real-estate investor Steve Witkoff, who also has a relationship with Mr. DeSantis. The three men met alone in a private room at Shell Bay, Mr. Witkoff’s development and golf club, according to the person briefed on the meeting.

Mr. Trump is looking to bolster his fund-raising, an ability Mr. DeSantis demonstrated during the primary by tapping into a network of well-funded donors. And Mr. DeSantis — who has made clear he is interested in running for president again in 2028 — is seeking to shed the negative weight of his disappointing campaign. The meeting was reported earlier by The Washington Post.

A spokesman for Mr. Trump didn’t respond to an email seeking comment. A spokesman for Mr. DeSantis declined to comment.

Mr. DeSantis is not seen as a contender to join a Republican ticket with Mr. Trump, who is both the presumptive Republican nominee and on trial in Manhattan on charges he falsified business records to conceal hush-money payments to a porn star in the 2016 election. Both Mr. Trump and Mr. DeSantis have made clear that such a pairing doesn’t interest either of them, and they also live in the same state, which would make it an unconstitutional pairing unless one of them were to move out of Florida, which is unlikely to happen, especially since Mr. DeSantis is currently the governor.

Mr. DeSantis had been seen as Mr. Trump’s chief intraparty competition, and he was the target the Trump team focused on for months. The tensions between the two men — and their aides — often boiled over during the primary race. Mr. Trump excoriated Mr. DeSantis during the campaign, nicknaming him “Ron DeSanctimonious,” and criticizing him as being disloyal. Mr. DeSantis also claimed that Mr. Trump was unelectable at various points during his primary campaign, which was plagued by missteps and accusations of mismanagement.

Recently, Mr. DeSantis held a donor event the same weekend that Mr. Trump held a large fund-raiser for his campaign. During the fund-raiser, Mr. Trump revived the “DeSanctimonious” nickname, according to an attendee.

Still, allies of both men say it is politically beneficial for them to come together for the 2024 campaign and beyond.

Neil Vigdor

Brady: United Against Gun Violence, a nonprofit that backs gun control, also cited in its criticism of Robert F. Kennedy Jr. the independent presidential candidate’s closeness with N.F.L. star Aaron Rodgers. CNN reported Rodgers has shared conspiracy theories about the 2012 Newtown school shooting. Rodgers has denied claims that he said the shooting didn’t happen.

Brady: United Against Gun Violence, a nonprofit that backs gun control, criticized the presidential bid of Robert F. Kennedy Jr. The group cited, among other factors, his skepticism about the issue and his endorsement of false claims that antidepressants are linked to school shootings. Kennedy’s campaign said decreased gun ownership has not curbed violence, calling it a symptom of a “profound illness.”

Former President Donald J. Trump denounced Robert F. Kennedy Jr. in social media posts over the weekend, suggesting concern that Kennedy might hurt him more than President Biden — something that isn't certain but that polls have shown is a possibility. “He’s a Radical Left Lunatic,” he wrote on Sunday, adding, “No Republican can vote for this guy.” Earlier, he said a vote for Kennedy would be “a WASTED PROTEST VOTE.”

Gov. Kristi Noem of South Dakota, a possible vice-presidential pick for Donald Trump, continued on Sunday to defend killing her “untrainable” dog in a gravel pit, a story that has drawn public shock and outrage since she revealed it in a memoir . In a lengthy social media post , she said she had “followed the law and was being a responsible parent, dog owner, and neighbor.”

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