room escape journey 3 stage 8

rigging a flying scot sailboat

Settings and techniques to maximize boat speed – by david ames february, 2021.

• Improving your Flying Scot
• Wind 0-3 Kts
• Wind 3-6 Kts
• Wind 10-15 Kts
• Wind 15-20 Kts

Hello, my name is David Ames , and I have been an avid Flying Scot sailor for about the past 6 years. I love the versatility of the Flying Scot, and I use my FS for racing and teaching learn-to-sail and advanced racing techniques. For fun, I use the Flying Scot to go to the sand bar on days off with my family and our two dogs. Part of belonging to the Flying Scot community is sharing my knowledge with other Flying Scot sailors to enable them to better understand the Flying Scot and to help others get the most enjoyment out of their boat.

The Flying Scot is a one-design boat which means that all the boats are the same and only minor modifications are allowed under the rules. In my following blog series, I will go over everything that we have done to our boat to make it sail faster as well as reduce common breakdowns and simplify control systems making the boat easier to sail. Even though it is important to have a fast boat, do not make the mistake of spending more than 10% of your sailing energy on the boat and leave yourself enough time to perfect your racing skillsets on the water.

So, we all would like a faster Flying Scot, but what does that mean?

Standing Rigging – Your boat’s standing rigging is an extremely important aspect of making the Flying Scot fast because the rake, stay tensions, and sail setup adjustments are all based on the symmetry of the rig. If the tip of the mast is not dead center, then the sails will be slightly different on each tack, and it will be difficult to find reproducible settings on each tack. The way I check the mast for centering is that I will measure a point on the rail from the stern of boat up near the chain plate and make a mark. Then I will replicate the measurement on the other rail in the exact same place and double check each side. To measure the mast’s position, I will take a long tape measure and raise it to the top of the mast attaching it to the main halyard and then measure the length to the marks on each rail of the boat. If the measurement is not exact, look to replace one or both sidestays compensating for the difference. Another cheaper way to correct the difference is to modify the holes on the sidestay connector plates.

Rake – The mast rake should be somewhere in the range of 28’ 5”- 28’ 6”. There are 2 ways to check if the mast is positioned at the correct angle.

1.) Connect the main halyard with a long tape measure and raise the halyard until it is snug at the top of the mast. Measure the length from the top of the mast to the back of the center of the deck and it should be in the range of 28’ 5”- 28’ 6”.

2.) Take the jib halyard and lower the shackle so that it is barely touching the deck right in front of the mast. Swing the jib halyard forward to the forestay and mark the forestay right at the bottom of the shackle. Measure the distance from the forestay mark to the hole on the bow plate. The distance should be 16” 1⁄4” to correspond with a rake of 28’ 5”- 28’ 6”.

Maintenance – Standing rigging maintenance should be done every time that you have the mast down or about once every 6 months at a minimum.

Blocks – At the top of the mast, there is a main halyard block that should be inspected for wear and lubricated during each maintenance. The jib halyard block, the topping lift block, the spinnaker halyard block.

Halyards – All the halyards should be checked for any burring; The spinnaker halyard should be checked for wearing and make sure that the stopper knot is set in the correct position.

Stay End Fittings and Connectors – Check the end fittings of the shrouds for cracking, burring, or excess corrosion. I use my boat in a high salt environment, so I normally change out my shrouds about every 3-4 years. Every time that my mast is down, I end up inspecting all stay fittings and I use Boeshield spray to keep the water off of the fittings and then I retape the shrouds to protect the sails from the clevis pins and to prevent the ring dings from backing out.

Stay Thickness – The forestay should be 1⁄8 inch. If you are still using the 3/32 inch halyard, change it because the 1⁄8 inch headstay relates to all the sail manufactures tuning guides.

Chain Plates – The side stay chain plates run through the deck and are attached to the boat behind the flotation foam under the seats. The chain plates are very durable but if you start to see corrosion at the deck then check the screws that anchor the chainplate for corrosion as well.

Stay Tension – For Snug Rig jibs, the forestay tension should be around 90 lbs. for light winds and should be tensioned up to 130 lbs. in heavy winds. I check the tension every day that I go sailing. If the rig is not holding tension, then it is a good indicator that there may be a problem with the turnbuckle at the forward toggle or that an end fitting is damaged.

Forestay Extender & Turnbuckle – The forestay extender and turnbuckle run from the toggle up through the bow plate and is attached to the forestay. I set the turnbuckle to get the forestay to the low end of my tension range and I have two holes in the chainplate to change tension from light wind to heavy wind. Since the forestay extender is mainly hidden, it can become neglected and will eventually fail leading to the mast falling causing damage to the boat and rig. The best way to prevent a forestay failure is to remember to inspect it for wear every time that the mast is down and tape the ring dings so they do not pull out of the shackles. Older turnbuckles should be wired so they cannot unwind themselves.

Toggle – The Toggle is located under the bow plate and is attached to the forestay chainplate. Check the screws that hold the chainplate for corrosion and change them out before the screw heads sheer off.

Control Systems

Vang – I use a 12:1 vang which is the standard for a racing Flying Scot. I have a 6:1 purchase between the tabernacle and the boom and a 2:1 puller line that is run back to the cassette. The reason why I like to use this system configuration is that it cleans up any purchase that may interfere with the spinnaker halyard. Additionally, by having just a 2:1 from the puller makes the system responsive when I ease off the vang. When I ease the vang, I am usually in a situation where I am sailing into a lull and want the leach of the main to open back up to prevent stalling the sail. Most boats that I have looked at have the 6:1 as the control line which gives you excellent purchase for adding vang but creates resistance when you ease off the vang.

Cunningham – I use Cunningham as a draft compensation control when I depower the main in 15-20 Kts. All other conditions, I do not use any Cunningham.

Outhaul – The outhaul should be adjusted based on the sailing conditions and by how much power that you want in the mainsail. A loose outhaul will make the mainsail fuller and will generate more power. A tight outhaul will flatten the sail and depower the main. The proper amount of power to carry in the mainsail depends on combined crew weight, wind, and wave conditions. All skipper/crew combined weights are looking to power up in light winds. The key to decide when to depower and begin to flatten the main depends on when you can no longer hike the boat to about 7%. Heavier sailing teams will be able to carry a loose outhaul longer than lighter teams. In light winds, there should be no wrinkles in the foot of the main. I tension the outhaul until there are no vertical wrinkles in the foot of the sail when I am in powering up conditions (0-12 kts). Once I get into depowering conditions, I start to create a horizontal wrinkle in the foot of the main. If the conditions are choppy, I will leave a little more power in the main to re-accelerate after hitting a wave.

Winches/Halyards – The winches and halyards need to be in good working order because the halyards are critical in properly setting up the sail shapes for the wind conditions. On race day, I fully unwind the wire halyard from the winch and then tightly rewind the halyard so that there is no bunching in the wire. The best way to judge halyard tension when setting up the sails is to sail downwind and tighten the halyards until there are no wrinkles in the luff of the sails. Ease off the jib halyard until you can barely see some crows’ feet form near the jib hanks and cleat the halyard off. The main is setup in the same way. Sail downwind and raise the main halyard until there are no wrinkles. Then ease off the halyard until there are horizontal wrinkles halfway up the luff of the mainsail. When sailing upwind there should be some horizontal wrinkles in both the main and jib luffs.

Mainsheet – The Flying Scot mainsheet can be rigged at 3:1 or 2:1 to accommodate the strength of the skipper. The 3:1 system makes it easier for the skipper to trim but the downside of the 3:1 system is that it makes weather and leeward difficult because you must pull in or ease out so much extra sheet. A couple of keys to having a good mainsheet system is you are now allowed to put a second ratchet block on the boom to give the skipper more leverage which means that a 3:1 configuration is no longer necessary. Second, I see that most Flying Scot booms have chafe marks where the boom hits the shroud after a jibe. The best way to prevent damage to the boom is to put a stopper knot in the mainsheet so that the boom stays 1⁄2 of an inch off the shroud during a jibe. I use a 2:1 sheet system because of the sheeting at the marks.

Centerboard – I mark where my centerboard is 100% down by looking at the gap between the leading edge of centerboard and the front of the centerboard trunk. If the centerboard is not down 100%, your Flying Scot will lose both pointing ability and boat speed. If your centerboard is down too far, then there will be additional drag created at the junction between the bottom of the boat and the leading edge of the centerboard trunk which is slow. The procedure for figuring out the perfect position is first I let the centerboard roll back so that there is a 1-inch gap between the leading edge of centerboard and the front of the centerboard trunk. Next, I slowly roll the centerboard forward until there is zero gap between the leading edge of centerboard and the front of the centerboard trunk. Then, I take a sharpie and mark right where the roller should be so that the crew can tell by not having to look down into the centerboard trunk. The final setting that I make is to put a stopper knot in the centerboard retractor line to prevent the centerboard from being dropped too far down.

Rudder – There is some debate about the ideal angle of the rudder. The Flying Scot rudder factory setting is about a 7% rake angle, but many Flying Scot sailors reduce the rudder rake down to about 2% to reduce the amount of weather helm when sailing upwind. Both the mast rake and the rudder angle have a big impact on the amount of helm in the Flying Scot, so it is important to understand the interaction between the two. If your mast rake is too far forward (more than 28’ 7”) then there will be little to no helm and a rudder raked at 2% will start to produce leeward helm making the boat difficult to point upwind. On the other extreme, if your mast rake is too far back (less than 28’ 4”) and your rudder has a 7% angle then there will be an excessive amount of weather helm slowing down your boat speed because the rudder produces more drag with increased helm. I have my mast rake at 28’ 5 1/2” and my rudder is 3% from vertical. When I am sailing the boat upwind with the proper heel, I can let go of the tiller and the boat will sail perfectly straight and I strive to have little to no helm. When I let the boat heel a little bit, I get a small amount of weather helm.

The Gasket – The gasket seems like a small part of the boat, but it could potentially become a major reason why your boat is slow. The gasket gets pinched open from not having the centerboard up 100% when the boat is brought out of the water onto the trailer. Once the gasket is pinched open, it allows water to come into the centerboard trunk increasing drag on the bottom of the boat and at the junction with the centerboard. Once the gasket has been damaged it must be replaced, so be extra careful to make sure that the centerboard is all the way up and that the gasket is sitting centered on the trailer roller. The gasket should be inspected every time you go sailing.

Boat Bottom – The condition of the bottom of the Flying Scot should be inspected about twice a year for excessive scratching and fairness. Most of the scratches come from the rollers on the trailer so extra caution is needed when you unload and load the trailer. We installed some extra padding and a bow protector to prevent the hull from hitting the metal on the trailer. If the bottom has excessive scratches, then the boat will have to be rolled over, patched, and sanded which is a major project.

Boat Weight – All owners should weigh their boats with just the hull only. Weighing the hull only will allow you to gage how close your boat is to the class minimum weight (675 lbs). I weigh my boat about once a year and keep track of my measurements to see if the hull is gaining weight. If the hull is gaining weight, then it is probably absorbing water into the core or the tabernacle. If your boat is gaining weight, then I would closely inspect the core to try and identify the intrusion points or damage to the fiberglass encasing the boat core. Catching damage to the core and fixing it early will extend the life of the boat significantly. Try keeping anything like the anchor or other objects that could damage the core in a plastic container.

Jib Cars and Blocks – Most boats that I have looked at have the springs installed on the jib car blocks which moves the jib trim point outboard. Moving the jib trim point outboard reduces pointing ability in all conditions. A second problem with having the jib trim point outboard is that to compensate, the crew must add 3-4 inches of weather sheeting. The jib blocks should be attached to the jib cars so that they sit 2 inches inboard of the tracts which is the maximum limit under the rules. I removed my springs from my jib cars because they were preventing the blocks from moving inboard in light wind. Also, I hardly ever use any weather sheeting. When I do use weather sheeting, it is at most 1 inch.

Jib Sheets – On my boat, I use three different jib sheets. I have a 1-1 light wind jib sheet that I use from 0- 10 kts. I use a 1-1 sheet in light wind to improve boat handling and reduce the weight of the system which closes the leach. In 10-15 Kts, I use a heavier 1-1 jib sheet to improve boat handling. In 15-20+ Kts, I use the traditional 2-1 jib sheet allowing the crew to deal with heavier sheet tensions.

Markings for Trim/Tension – I am a big proponent of using measuring stickers to allow the crew to understand the exact positioning of a control line or sheet tension. The jib sheets should have a mark and a measuring sticker on the back side of the bench.

At the end of the day, a fast boat is all about paying attention to the details. I am always looking at other sailors’ Flying Scot to see if they have done something different with the rigging or systems on the boat. Everything that we do to our Flying Scot is a reflection of our knowledge of sailing and our understanding of the physics of the Flying Scot design.

In super light conditions it is tough to get the sails working so wind flow over the upper 1/3rd of the main and jib become the most important factors in trimming the sail and producing the correct sails shape.

Halyard Tension – In order to open up the leaches in the top of the sails, the jib and main halyard must be looser than normal. The best way to judge halyard tension is to sail down wind and tighten the halyards until there are no wrinkles in the luff of the sails. When sailing upwind there should be some horizontal wrinkles in both the main and jib luffs.

Boat Heel – Heeling 5-10 degrees to leeward can help open up the main and jib leaches. The more you heel the boat, the more gravity assists pulling the leech of the main and jib outward. An added bonus to heeling the boat to leeward in 0-3 kts is that you are reducing the wetted surfaces of the bottom of the boat which reduces drag. When sailing downwind heeling to leeward helps to get the spinnaker/Main slot opened as well.

Sail Trim – The jib should be trimmed outward from normal closed hauled medium wind conditions. The telltale at the top of the jib should be flowing and the leech should be 2-3 inches outside of the leeward shroud. The main should be trimmed out to the corner of the boat and the upper telltale on the top batten should be flowing. The telltales on both the main and jib should be checked by the skipper and crew to identify any stalling and make subtle adjustments in the trim to keep the upper 1/3rd of both sails flowing.

Steering Technique – The wind flow through the jib/main slot is dynamic which means that your steering angle will affect the amount of flow through the slot. In order to accelerate from slow speed, the sails must be trimmed out about 1 inch from where they would be at top speed . The skipper needs to steer so that both telltales on the jib are flowing perfectly straight back which will maximize the flow. Remember, if you pinch or foot the boat it will take longer to build pressure. Once pressure has been built with the sails trimmed 1 inch out you can start to allow the boat to point a little. The best way to point in light wind is to allow the weather helm and the leeward heel to slowly point the boat up . When you allow the helm to point the boat you will not create any unnecessary drag. Once pressure has built up you can shift your weight out and trim in both the main and the jib 1 inch to point a little bit better. Your overall strategy is to have a smooth change from building pressure to pointing and if you happen to stall or hit a lull then you need to go back to promoting flow in the upper part of the sails .

Jib Track Position – Moving the jib leads aft on the tracks can also help flow in the upper part of the jib leech because it helps open up the slot and simultaneously allows the sail to twist more. Be careful. Once the wind picks up over 3 kts, you will want to move the jib tracks forward again.

In light conditions it is tough to get the sails working so wind flow over the upper 1/3rd of the main and jib become the most important factors in trimming the sail and producing the correct sails shape.

Mast Rake: 28’ 5 1/2” Headstay Tension: 110 lbs. for snug jib shape.

Halyard Tension – The best way to judge halyard tension is to sail down wind and tighten the halyards until there are no wrinkles in the luff of the sails. When sailing upwind there should be some horizontal wrinkles in both the main and jib luffs. The outhaul should be tightened until you get a slight horizontal wrinkle in the foot of the sail.

Boat Heel – The optimal boat heel is slightly less than in the 0-3 wind knot range when the ideal heel is somewhere between 5-10 degrees of leeward heel. Heeling 5-10 degrees to leeward can help open up the main and jib leaches. The more you heel the boat, the more gravity assists pulling the leech of the main and jib outward. Wetted surfaces become less of an issue up wind in 3-6 kts and the sails should produce enough power to heel the boat to the optimum angle. Weight positioning becomes more of the critical focus point. If you are trying to produce more pressure, move the crew weight in and forward in the boat and when the boat powers up, be patient in moving the crew weight to weather (the crew should only move up to weather after the skipper is almost hiking) to get the boat to the desired heel. When sailing downwind heeling to leeward helps to get the spinnaker/Main slot opened as well.

Sail Trim – The jib should be trimmed outward from normal closed hauled in light to medium wind conditions. The telltale at the top of the jib should be flowing and the leech should be 1-2 inches outside of the leeward shroud . The foot of the jib becomes the critical indicator for how tight the crew should trim in and the foot of the jib should be trimmed until a slight horizontal crease forms between the tack and foot of the jib. Trimming based on pressure is the main goal so if you are trying to build pressure make sure both sails are eased 1 inch and if you have good pressure be patient and only sheet in the last inch after the pressure has fully built and you are attempting to point. The main should be trimmed much further in than in 0-3 kts and should trim in until the top batten telltale almost stalls. The telltales on both the main and jib should be checked by the skipper and crew to identify any stalling and make subtle adjustments in the trim to keep the upper 1/3rd of both sails flowing.

Sailing in 3-6 kts has a very similar technique as sailing in 0-3 kts, remember to lock in on the telltales and pump the sail 1-2 times when trying to build pressure and if the pump does not have an impact on pressure then look at the telltale on the upper main batten to see if you are over trimmed and stalled.

Steering Mechanics – Proper steering and trimming mechanics should use the minimum amount of energy and waste of motion. Remember to hold the tiller and main sheet close to your belly and keep your lower body further in than your shoulders.

In medium sailing conditions you no longer have to focus on promoting flow in the upper part of the main and jib. In 10-15 kts, the focus of your upwind technique should shift to trimming the jib and main to achieve the best VMG. Staying in phase with the wind shifts should become your highest priority in your tactical game even though sailing to find more pressure is important. Downwind you should focus on being on the headed jibe at the weather mark and then make the determination to sail high or low based on where you see the most pressure. The winning formula in these conditions is to sail the least amount of distance with the fewest boat handling maneuvers. Halyard Tension – Similar to light wind conditions, the best way to judge halyard tension is to sail down wind and tighten the halyards until there are no wrinkles in the luff of the sails. When sailing upwind there should be some horizontal wrinkles in the main. In 10-15 kts, the jib halyard is tuned slightly tighter and the luff of the jib should have the slightest hint of a horizontal wrinkle. The outhaul should be tightened until you get a slight horizontal wrinkle in the foot of the sail. No main Cunningham yet. Boat Heel – In 10-15 kts, I am going to divide the boat heel notes in upwind and downwind heel. Up wind the bottom of the hull shape has the best aspect ratio when you are on a 7-10-degree leeward heel. The center board performs best when the boat is flat but that is at odds with the best wetted surface shape. Determining the best heel (between flat and 7-10-degrees) depends on the amount of pressure you have in the sails. If you are sailing in a 7-10 kt. Lull, you should be trying to building pressure in the rig by steering exactly to the tell tales, and you want the boat to heel up due to excess pressure being built. By allowing the boat to load up and heel, you will be able to generate helm and the boat will want to point which gives the best VMG and you will be able to hike out more and go faster. In situations where the wind is 10-13 kts, the pressure will build quickly and you will be hiking out and easing the main to prevent the boat from over heeling past 10 degrees. The problem with heeling too much is that the centerboard will begin to slip sideways and you will lose pointing upwind. The best technique is to steer to the telltales and make sure to not get into a habit of pinching and then manage the optimal heel of the boat with your mainsheet trim. Pinching will destabilize the flow in the sails and make the pressure unstable. Pinching to flatten the boat is biggest mistake I see in most sailors’ techniques. What is fast, once you have excess pressure, is to steer at the upper range of the tell tales to where you are almost pinching, hike hard, and use the main sheet to keep the boat right in the 7-10-degree heel range. Down wind the bottom of the hull shape has the best aspect ratio when you are on a 7-degree leeward or weather heel and sailing the boat flat is slow in all wind ranges. Your decision to choose what heel is appropriate comes from the pressure in your sails. If your pressure is soft in your sails and you want to heat up your sailing angle, you should be on a leeward heel. If you have good pressure in your sails and you want to sail a lower angle to the mark, then you should be on a weather heel. I will discuss all the different downwind techniques in a different section. Sail Trim – When sailing upwind in 10-15 kts, the jib should be trimmed in until the upper tell tale on the leech is just about stalled. The foot of the jib is still the critical indicator for how tight the crew should trim in and the foot of the jib should be trimmed until a slight horizontal crease forms between the tack and foot of the jib. Trimming based on pressure is the main goal so if you are trying to build pressure make sure both sails are eased 1-2 inches and if you have good pressure be patient and only sheet in the last inch after the pressure has fully built and you are attempting to point. If you begin to become overpowered, the crew can over trim the jib to help depower the rig and you will be able to point slightly higher which will help reduce over heeling. The main should be trimmed to manage the heel of the boat. Remember, in 7-10 kts, you are still trying to create pressure and heel to point, and you will need to trim the main all the way in until the upper batten of the main is almost stalled. You can check the tell tale at the batten once in a while to see if you are over trimming and stalling. Once you are fully powered up in 12-15 kts and hiking out, you will need to begin easing the main to keep the ideal heel and you will start to add vang tension so that the upper part of the main does not twist too much. Vang sheeting will take power out of the main and help keep the boat from over heeling. Additionally, tightening the outhaul and dropping the main a click or two can help depower the main to help keep the boat at its optimum heel. Do Not Pinch. Steering Technique – In 10- 15 kts, the wind flow and pressure built through the jib/main slot is dynamic which means that your steering angle will affect the amount of flow through the slot. The only difference from light winds is that stalling mainly occurs from over trimming. In order to accelerate from tacks and lulls, the sails must be trimmed out about 1 inch from where they would be at top speed . The skipper needs to steer so that both telltales on the jib are flowing perfectly straight back which will maximize the flow. Pressure will build very fast so you can trim in the main and jib in the final inch and begin pointing right away. If you feel that you have too much pressure just ease the main and vang sheet to keep the boat on the optimal heel. Mark Roundings – At the weather mark, you will pick your downwind strategy based on the lifted tack at the weather mark and you will decide on how to position compared to the other boats based on the incoming pressure. At the weather or offset mark, there is an opportunity to increaser your boat speed as you sail from closed hauled through a tight reach and then to a downwind course. Most sailors just bear away and set and miss the best opportunity to set up a winning strategy for the down wind leg. Using the tight reach angle to increase your boat speed allows you to gain 2-3 boat lengths and then translate that boat speed into a position that can pass the boats that are immediately in front of you. To increase your boat speed, you need to remember that as you bear away from closed hauled to a tight reach that your sails will increase pressure and you need to hike out with the crew as you bear away. I like to move back a couple of inches and even pump the main as I bear away to get additional speed and then attack the boats in front of me and set the spinnaker. Steering mechanics – Proper steering and trimming mechanics should use the minimum amount of energy and waste of motion. Remember to hold the tiller and main sheet close to your belly and keep your lower body further in than your shoulders. At the mark rounding’s remember the sheeting and steering mechanics that we practiced to maximize speed through the rounding

In medium to heavy sailing conditions your ability to properly de-power the Flying Scot and your boat handling are as important as having a good start and playing the wind shifts. In 15-20 kts, the focus of your upwind technique should be on steering to the jib tell tales and managing the heel of the boat with the vang and the main sheet. Ideally, you want to minimize the amount of feathering that you have to do and keep the boat on a slight leeward heel (5-7 degrees) to sail at the best VMG. Staying in phase with the wind shifts is still important because it helps reduce the amount of distance sailed in the race and can help a lighter crew compete with heavier boats. Downwind you should focus on being on the headed jibe at the weather mark and then make the determination to sail high or low based on where you see the most pressure. Mast Rake: 28’ 5” Headstay Tension: 120-150 lbs. for snug jib shape. Halyard Tensions – The best way to judge halyard tension is to sail down wind and tighten the halyards until there are no wrinkles in the luff of the sails and then sail upwind and make small adjustments to the halyard tensions based on the luff wrinkles. 15 kt Range . Sailing upwind there should be some horizontal wrinkles in the main and the jib halyard should be tuned slightly tighter so that the luff of the jib should have the slightest hint of a horizontal wrinkle. You are still trying to power up the sails and hike hard to achieve the fastest boat speed. No cunning ham yet. Strap the outhaul. 20 kt range. In 20 kts, I actually drop my main halyard until the boom is just above level with the vang on. This means dropping the halyard 5-6 positions on the winch. The reason I drop the main halyard is to de-power the main and prevent inversion in the luff of the main which is super slow. By dropping the main halyard, you are twisting the upper part of the leech which keeps you from having to ease the main beyond the corner of the boat. Easing the main beyond the corner of the boat will kill your pointing and is one of the causes of inversion in the luff of the main. Then, I put vang on to keep the main leech from twisting too much. The cunning ham is tightened to compensate for the lower main halyard. Strap the outhaul. I tighten the jib halyard until there is no wrinkles in the luff. Tightening the jib halyard is like having a jib Cunningham and moves the draft forward helping to depower the jib. Boat Heel – In 15-20 kts, I am going to divide my boat heel notes into upwind and downwind heel. Up wind the bottom of the hull shape has the best aspect ratio when you are on a 7-10-degree leeward heel. The center board performs best when the boat is flat but that is at odds with the best wetted surface shape. Determining the best heel (between flat and 7-10-degrees) depends on the amount of pressure you have in the sails. If you are sailing in a lull, you should be trying to building pressure in the sails by steering exactly to the tell tales and then let the boat heel up due to excess pressure being built in the main. By allowing the boat to load up and heel you will be able to generate helm and the boat will want to point which gives the best pointing angle and you will be able to hike out more and go faster. In situations where the wind is above 15 kts, the pressure will build quickly and you will be hiking out and easing the main to prevent the boat from over heeling past 10 degrees. The problem with heeling too much is that the centerboard will begin to slip sideways and you will lose pointing. The best technique is to steer to the telltales and make sure to not get into a habit of pinching and then manage the optimal heel of the boat with your mainsheet trim. Pinching to flatten the boat will destabilize the flow in the sails and make the pressure unstable. Pinching to flatten the boat is the biggest mistake I see in most sailors’ techniques in 15-20 kts. What is fast, once you have excess pressure, is to steer at the upper range of the tell tales to where you are almost pinching, hike hard, and use the main sheet and vang to keep the boat right in the 7-10-degree heel range. Down wind the bottom of the hull shape has the best aspect ratio when you are on a 7-degree leeward or weather heel and sailing the boat flat is slow in all wind ranges. Your decision to choose what heel is appropriate comes from the pressure in your sails. If your pressure is soft in your sails and you want to heat up your sailing angle then you should be on a leeward heel. If you have good pressure in your sails and you want to sail a lower angle to the mark then you should be on a weather heel. I will discuss all the different downwind techniques in a different section. Sail Trim The Jib : When sailing upwind in 15 kts the jib should be trimmed in until the upper tell tale on the leech is just about stalled. The foot of the jib is still the critical indicator for how tight the crew should trim and the foot of the jib should be trimmed until a slight horizontal crease forms between the tack and foot of the jib. Trimming based on pressure is the main goal so if you are trying to build pressure make sure both sails are eased 1 inch and if you have good pressure be patient and only sheet in the last inch after the pressure has fully built and you are attempting to point. If you rig is overpowered the crew can over trim the jib to help de-power the rig and you will be able to point slightly higher which will help reduce over heeling. The Main: Ease, Hike, Trim, and then Point/Feather. The main should be trimmed to manage the heel of the boat. The main and vang are your two main controls that you use in 15-20 kts to make the boat go fast. When a puff hits your boat, you should ease aggressively to prevent the boat from heeling too much. Once you have eased you should hike out as hard as possible to maximize forward boat speed and then you should re- trim the main and load up the boat. I like to feather the boat slightly if the crew is fully hiking out and my boat is in the ideal heel but I will only feather for a couple of boat lengths at a time to prevent pinching. If your main is consistently outside of the corner of the boat you should consider lowering the main to depower. The vang should be tightened as you ease the main sheet and will depower and prevent the leech from twisting too much. Do Not Pinch. Steering Technique – In 15-20 kts, the wind flow and pressure built through the jib/main slot is dynamic which means that your steering angle will affect the amount of flow through the slot. The only difference from light winds is that stalling mainly occurs from over trimming. In order to accelerate from tacks and lulls, the sails must be trimmed out about 1 inch from where they would be at top speed . The skipper needs to steer so that both telltales on the jib are flowing perfectly straight back which will maximize the flow. Pressure will build very fast and then you can trim in the main and jib in the final inch and begin pointing right away. If you feel that you have too much pressure just ease the main and increase the vang sheet to keep the boat on the optimal heel. Mark Rounding At the weather mark , you will pick your downwind strategy based on the lifted tack at the weather mark and you will decide on how to position compared to the other boats based on the incoming pressure. At the weather or offset mark there is an opportunity to increaser your boat speed as you sail from closed hauled through a tight reach and then to a downwind course. Most sailors just bear away and set and miss the best opportunity to set up a winning strategy for the down wind leg. Using the tight reach angle to increase your boat speed allows you to gain 2-3 boat lengths and then translate that boat speed into a position that can pass the boats that are immediately in front of you. To increase your boat speed, you need to remember that as you bear away from closed hauled to a tight reach that your sails will increase pressure and you need to hike out with the crew as you bear away. I like to move back a couple of inches and even pump the main as I bear away to get additional speed and then attack the boats in front of me and set the spinnaker. At the leeward mark , it is important to be one boat length below the lay line when you begin taking down the spinnaker. While the crew is taking down the spinnaker, the skipper should get their weight out and back to compensate for the crew moving forward for the take down. Right when you get to the mark have the crew move into the bench so that the boat can heel to leeward and the skipper should stand up to gain leverage to trim the main in with maximum pull length on the main sheet. As the skipper begins the round up from a broad reach to a close reach the sails will produce excess pressure. Right when the excess pressure builds move both crew and skipper to the rail to flatten and accelerate as the boat comes up to closed hauled. Using the close reaching angle to build speed allows you to sail above closed hauled for a couple of boat lengths allowing you to get into a higher lane than the boats that have rounded ahead. If you are leading then the boats that round behind you will immediately fall into your bad air limiting their tactical options.

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• Sailboat Guide

Flying Scot

Flying Scot is a 18 ′ 11 ″ / 5.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Gordon K. (Sandy) Douglass and built by Tanzer Industries Ltd., Douglass & McLeod, Customflex, Flying Scot, Inc., and Loftland Sail-craft Inc. starting in 1958.

• 1 / 1 Dallas, TX, US 1978 Flying Scot USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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FLYING SCOT TUNING GUIDE

Boat preparation, mast and shroud tension, the loose rig.

To measure the aft rake of your mast, hoist a tape measure on the main halyard and hold it tight at the intersection of the transom and the rear deck. This measurement (without your jib up), should be 28’ 4” to 28’ 5 1/2”. On our boat we have placed a channel adjuster above the deck at the joint of the forestay and the wire attached to the toggle. This allows us to quickly adjust the rake and lengthen the forestay if necessary.

To measure the “slop” of the rig, you need to measure the forward rake of the mast. With the tape still hoisted, push the mast forward until the shrouds restrict it. The difference between this forward measurement and the aft measurement should be approximately 2-3”.

The Tight Rig

The tight rig tuning is only functional with the jib cut for this tuning. A Loose Rig, or even a Snug jib put on a tight rig will be too flat, especially in medium winds.

First, drop your shrouds as low as possible in your channel adjusters. This should put the very bottom of the swage fork on your shrouds just barely above the actual chain plate that exits the hull. Raise the mast; hook your jib halyard to your bow plate (and perhaps tie your spinnaker halyard on the bow plate as well as a safety). Tighten the jib halyard until tensioned close to the suggested tension of 240lbs. We use a 3/8” socket wrench in the halyard box to crank the rig up tight enough. The standard aluminum cranks will break if used. It may be a trial and error process until you’ve reached the proper rig and tension. However, once achieved, you will not have to readjust the rig again! We suggest setting your rig up with the rig tension between 220 and 250 pounds. If less than 220, too much headstay sag will develop in medium winds, if more than 250; the mast may be pushed out of column in heavier winds.

The rake measurement, measured with a tape hooked on the main halyard to the joint of the transom on the back deck, should be very close to 28’4”- 28’5”. Farther forward than 28’5 1/2” will result in too “light” of a helm and the need to heel the boat more to keep in balanced. More rake than 28’3” will create too much weather helm.

Snug Rig Jib

The Snug Rig jib will tune very similar to the Tight Rig, using the same methods and tools above.

The rake measurement should still set very close to the 28’ 4”-28’ 5”. The rig tension will be considerably less then the tight rig, however. Set the rig to 80-110 lbs measured on the forestay.

NO MORE TOGGLE

It is no longer necessary to use the toggle to set your rake, jib luff tension or slop in the rig. In fact, you will never ever need to look at it again; your forestay will take the entire rig load while your jib halyard will simply adjust cloth tension.

RUDDER BLADE

In the past we have indicated in our Tuning Guides that the angle of the rudder blade to the rudder head should be set so the blade is much closer to parallel to the rudder head than comes stock from the factory. This has meant moving the blade and redrilling the rudder blade hole.

We have found that this change is not necessary and in some cases has perhaps contributed to rudder blade bending due to increased leverage on the blade.

Instead we feel confidant that setting the rudder blade angle similar to what come stock from the factory (the forward lower tip is approximately 5” aft of a straight line tangent to the forward edge of the rudder blade and parallel to the forward edge of the rudder head) increases the strength of the rudder blade without compromising speed or pointing ability.

MAIN SHEET TRIM

The main should be trimmed so that the upper batten is parallel to the boom (sighted from under the boom looking up the sail). In lighter winds, or when sailing in a great deal of chop, it is helpful to ease the mainsheet slightly so the upper batten is angled out approximately 5º. In drifting conditions, when the boom is hanging on the leech and hooking the upper batten, set the upper batten parallel to centerline of the boat. Only in drifting conditions should the main be trimmed this way, as this will place the boom approximately 2’ (61 cm) off from centerline.

In very heavy winds, with the help of the boom vang, set the mainsheet tension so the upper batten is again angled outboard approximately 5º from parallel to the boom. It is important, in winds above 15 mph, to apply heavy boom vang tension so the mast and boom will bend correctly to sufficiently flatten the sail. When proper vang tension is applied it is not unusual that the boom be deflected from the straight line nearly 3 to 4” (7.6 to 10.2 cm) in heavy breezes. This heavy boom vang tension will help make playing the main much easier, as the sheet will not have quite as much strain as it does in even moderate winds.

Note: Make sure when rounding the windward mark that the boom vang is eased off so more strain is not applied to the mast and boom!

MAINSAIL STEERS THE FLYING SCOT

The mainsail is very important in steering the Scot. The skipper should always hold his mainsheet and be ready to ease it quickly when he feels an increase in his weather helm (i.e. load on the helm acts as a brake). When the boat is tracking well again, and the helm is balanced, he should slowly trim the mainsail back in.

Note: Double check that your mainsheet swivel cleat is angled properly for easy release in a puff. It is dangerous, and slow, to have to use your foot to kick the sheet free from the cleat to release it!

CUNNINGHAM/MAIN HALYARD TENSION

Pull the Cunningham just tight enough to leave a hint of horizontal wrinkles off the lower one-third luff of the sail. With the North Flying Scot main, it is better to err towards being too loose than being too tight. Of course, in a breeze it will require much more Cunningham tension to smooth the sail, but there should still be a hint of horizontal wrinkles.

It is important to start with the proper main halyard tension at the dock. There is a definite tendency to over-tension the halyard and pull all the wrinkles from the luff before any Cunningham is applied. This is especially important to avoid in lighter winds.

Downwind, trim the vang just hard enough to keep the boom down and the leech supported on the main. Still use the guide of setting the upper batten being set slightly out from parallel to the boom. When the boom vang is trimmed correctly on a beam to broad reach, the telltale should fly straight off the leech at the upper batten. There is a tendency for the boom vang to be pulled on too hard when sailing downwind, especially in light winds. This will over- tighten the upper leech and, due to the side bend of the mast, over flatten the mainsail. However, it is also easy to “under-vang” in heavier winds downwind and loose valuable power from the top of the main. Be conscious of your top telltale.

As previously mentioned, upwind in heavy air, the vang is set hard enough to restrict the upward movement of the boom to just allow the upper batten to ease no more than 5° to 10° past parallel to the boom. In these conditions, as mentioned, the mainsheet simply acts as a traveler and allows the boom to move mostly sideways and outboard. With each wind velocity the vang tension applied depends primarily on crew weight. Lighter weight crews will tension the vang earlier due to becoming overpowered earlier, while heavier crews might not need boom vang tension until much heavier winds.

Your North mainsail is constructed with a shelf foot so it is possible to make the lower half of the main deeper when sailing downwind. Usually the outhaul is tight enough upwind so that there will be only a 1 1/2” to 2” (3.8 cm to 5.1 cm) gap between the side of the boom and the shelf-foot seam in the middle of the foot. In heavy winds, pull the outhaul tighter to close the shelf and flatten the main. In extremely heavy winds, above 18 mph, the outhaul should be tight enough so there is a hard crease from the tack to the clew. In lighter winds or choppy seas, ease the outhaul until the gap between the side of the boom and the shelf seam is 2”. When going downwind, ease the outhaul (if there is time and opportunity) until the gap is a full 3-4”.

JIB LUFF TENSION

As wind velocity changes, it is necessary to change the luff tension on your jib (such as the Cunningham on the main). Simply crank your jib up tight enough to barely leave a hint of wrinkles along the luff. These will appear as “crow’s feet” off each snap. Never leave the halyard tension loose enough so that there is “sag” between each snap, but only crank the halyard so tight that the crow’s feet are removed in heavy winds when overpowered. There is no need to adjust the lashing at the head of your jib if you use the above suggestions.

JIB LEAD POSITION

In most conditions, keep the leads maximum forward on the tracks. In heavy winds and when overpowered, move the leads all the way aft on the tracks.

JIB SHEET TRIM :   WINDWARD SHEET TRIM

Proper leeward and windward jib sheet tensions are important for top upwind performance in the Flying Scot. In light and moderate winds, the windward sheet is tensioned upwind in order to pull the clew of the jib to windward of the jib lead track. This will help narrow the slot (since the Scot’s jib slot is normally too wide) and make the lower sections of the jib more powerful.

To set up the trim for upwind sailing pull the leeward sheet until the foot of the jib is just smooth and not curled. The foot should be relatively flat and not baggy, but not so flat that the very bottom of the sail begins to curl up. Next pull in the windward sheet until the clew of the jib falls directly over the middle of the seat. On our boat we actually place a tape mark in the middle of the seat to make it easier to eyeball the position of the clew.

With the weather sheet trimmed the jib foot will become much fuller which will increase the boat’s power and ability to accelerate. Once the boat is up to top speed pull the leeward sheet again until the foot is flatter and the upper batten is angled straight back nearly parallel to the center line of the boat.

When hitting chop or sailing into a lull, ease only the leeward sheet so that the top batten angles outboard 15 to 20 degrees. When back up to speed, pull the leeward sheet back in until the top batten is nearly straight back. Throughout this acceleration process the weather sheet is never eased unless the boat is sailing in very light, nearly drifting conditions or very heavy winds (see below). In this condition the boat will be nearly “close reached” around the course and the weather sheet, therefore will not be applied.

We have found that in heavy winds and when the boat is overpowered the windward sheet will be well eased and at times all the way off. This is necessary because as the mainsheet is eased, you will need to help maintain an open slot between the jib and the main. Also this allows the leech of the jib to open up and be more forgiving, both in terms of heel and steering.

ATTACHING JIB SHEETS

It is best to tie the jib sheet onto the jib with an overhand know so that the knot is 6” away from the clew of the jib. This is important so that when windward sheeting pull from the windward sheet is primarily across instead of directly down. With the knot 6” away from the clew the windward sheet attaches to the jib lower and therefore pulls more sideways.

If you are sailing with 2:1 sheets, the blocks should be tied about 6” from the clew of the jib.

CREW WEIGHT

While the Flying Scot will perform with an extremely wide range of crew weights, we suggest trying to sail with as close to 360 to 450 lb. as possible.

CENTERBOARD

Keep the board all the way down when sailing upwind in all conditions. In heavier winds you may find that the helm balances even better when the board is rolled back from the bottom of the hump 1” to 2”. In very heavy, near survival, winds lower your board only to where the rollers are just touching the flat at the bottom of the hump.

Downwind remember to pull the board up to match the helm balance. On a reach it is not unusual for the board to be as high as 3/4 of the way up when it is breezy.

Remember that the only goal is to balance the helm when sailing off the wind and pulling the board up until the boat will almost sail itself when nearly flat will greatly help to improve the boat’s speed.

SPINNAKER TRIM

Always sail your North spinnaker with a 6” to 12” curl in the luff. Careful concentration is necessary. Use short, smooth, in and out motions on the sheet to keep the spinnaker trimmed correctly. Try to keep from jerking the sheet when the spinnaker begins to collapse! Keep the clews even at all times through adjustments to your topping lift (pole).

In some conditions it is difficult to see the leeward clew behind the mainsail, so you can use another guide, which is to adjust the pole height so that the center vertical seam in the spinnaker is parallel to the mast. We suggest easing the halyard so that the head of the spinnaker is 6” off the mast.

When running, in nearly all conditions, we suggest sitting fairly far aft in the Flying Scot. It is not unusual for the skipper to be up against the aft side of the cockpit with his crew just in front of him, especially when windy.

SHIM YOUR BOARD

On Scot’s older than 5 years it may be helpful to shim the centerboard and trunk for top upwind speed. When sailing through chop an unshimmed board can slop around and become quite inefficient. By gluing fiberglass battens or applying thickened epoxy to the inside of the trunk where the bottom meets the inside of the trunk, the board can be shimmed tightly so that sideways slop will be minimized when the board is fully lowered.

STEERING THE SNUG AND TIGHT RIG JIBS

In light to medium winds, these jibs will steer just similar to the loose rig style jib. When pointing high, allow the weather telltale to stall, but never sail lower than the leeward telltale on the luff of the jib-streaming straight aft. When accelerating, both telltales should be straight aft.

However, in breeze, when the boat is overpowered, it will be unusual, unless sailing through very large waves, that the weather telltale will not show a stall. In fact, in very breezy conditions, the luff of the jib will actually be breaking as far back as 12 inches. With the tight rig jib the groove is quite wide and when trying to accelerate, both telltales will nearly be straight aft, and when sailing in point mode and when trying to depower, again, the luff of the jib will be actually breaking.

When steering in the upper ranges of the “groove” don’t be afraid to allow the windward telltale, and at times even the luff of the jib, break.

Your North Sails are constructed out of the best materials on the market today. We make sure of this by testing every roll of cloth we use. Through proper care and maintenance your sails will give you the performance you have come to expect from a North sail.

The most important factor for a long life for your sails is to watch them for signs of wear and tear in high load and chafe areas. Be sure to wash the sails off with fresh water and dry the sails thoroughly before storing. A dry, mild climate is best. Excessive heat can cause problems with the sails due to the possibility of shrinkage. It is best to roll the mainsail and jib.

When hoisting and lowering the sail try to minimize the amount of creasing or wrinkling of the sail. Every time the sail gains a crease the cloth breaks down that much faster. Always have someone contain the leech and luff during these procedures.

The battens can be left in the sail without any problems. Be sure to roll the sail down the leech so that the battens will not twist. This could cause damage to the battens.

When rolling the jib keep the battens perpendicular to the leech. Pay special attention to the battens and batten pockets for wear and tear.

The spinnaker is fairly straightforward. Be sure to repair all tears and pulled stitches. Folding the sail when storing is best.

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People power: cleaning up air in the med's ports, north 3di: frequently asked questions, the reason north 3di is a must-have.

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Support / One-design deck layouts

Flying Scot Deck Layout

57 mm Carbo Mainsheet System

This efficient 4:1 system features a Carbo® ratchet mounted to a swivel base that rotates to face the trimmer. Sailors can hand-hold loaded lines and trim and ease under complete control.

Racing Vang

Built of lightweight 29 and 40 mm Carbo blocks, this free-running system provides a powerful 12:1 mechanical advantage for fast sail adjustments. The vang terminates on the centerboard trunk and cleats to a Harken Cam-Matic® cleat with X-Treme Angle Fairlead for easy cleating/uncleating on either tack.

This 6:1 cascading system cleats on the centerboard trunk and provides plenty of power to play the cunningham from either side of the boat.

If you would like to link to or reprint this article please contact  [email protected]

Class History

This 1957 one-design by racing champion Gordon Douglass celebrates 60 years of continuous production this year and remains one of North America’s most successful planing one-designs. Hard bilges and weighted centerboard make the Flying Scot practically untippable and perfect for family daysailing, while its deliberately simple rig shifts focus from tuning and boat speed toward exciting tactical racing by a crew of two or three. In 1998, the Flying Scot was inducted into the American Sailing Hall of Fame and has been used for many U.S. sailing events, including the Mallory, Adams, and Sears Cups.

Links McLube™ Flying Scot Class

Boat Specifications

Length Overall: 19 ft (5.8 m) Beam: 6'9" ft (2.05 m) Draft-Board Up: 8 in (.2 m) Draft-Board Down: 48 in (1.2 m) Mast Height: 28 ft (8.6 m) Sail Area, Main & Jib: 191 sq. ft (17.65 sq. m) Sail Area, Spinnaker: 200 sq. ft ( 18.6 sq m) All Up Weight: 850 lb (386 kg)

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Rigging Specs

I have a "new to me" boat (FS3928), I realize there are different configurations, but is there a listing of suggested lines? I need to replace everything and don't know where to start. Boat came from a sailing school and it's fairly miscellaneous.

Honeybadger

Wed, 07/12/2017 - 22:45

All the lines, parts etc you

All the lines, parts etc you will need are sold by flyingscot.com.  If you have questions, they are most helpful.

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Thu, 07/13/2017 - 11:49

Lines, etc.

Thank you - I'm next door to New England Ropes so I was hoping to just to be able to customer color code my own. I did contact FS but they were unable to tell me recommended lengths, etc. Just referred to their online shop.

Fri, 07/14/2017 - 17:50

Running Rigging Specs

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--flying-scot-custom-rigging-- ...

The Boat That Stays With You

Our aim, as always, is to build the best. The Flying Scot is a  welcoming and affordable class, that aims to grow the sport of sailing and its diversity. She is easy to sail, store, rig and transport.

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"Our aim, as always, is to build the best."

-Sandy Douglass

Sandy made our motto in 1957 and we build the same quality boat that we did back then. We've never cut corners here at Flying Scot Inc, and we never will. Our boats are sound and hold up against the toughest conditions. Our customers have always written us the best sailboat reviews because of our quality and customer service. The Flying Scot family does not refer to just us here at the factory. It's a Flying Scot Nation, our roots are deep, and our customers are like family. There is simply no better class, but don't take our word for it, see what our other customers say below.

After 32 years of hard service in a 15 knot wind my lower gudgeon failed on a Sunday. I called the folks at Flying Scot first thing Monday morning. By noon they had my boat in the shop and by noon on Wednesday, less than 48 hours after the call, the boat had been professionally repaired and was back in the water.They saved my vacation! Well done!

From first contact to delivery, our relationship with Tyler and the family and dedicated team at Flying Scot Inc. has been outstanding. Tyler was patient, knowledgeable, gracious and extremely helpful in guiding us in our decision making process. Upon delivery to Glen Lake, MI, Tyler was awesome in rigging the boat and taking us on an orientation sail. His experience and insight were shared in a humble and encouraging manner. Our boat is sensational, drawing rave reviews from family and friends who have sailed with us and the friends who have enjoyed the beautiful new boat on the water. We have the highest regard for all those involved in building our family’s sailing future. Bill Witler and family.

I can not express how thrilled I am with Flying Scot! Their customer service throughout the entire process of buying a new boat was beyond extraordinary. Tyler went above and beyond to work with us to insure our every need was met. The boat is absolutely stunning and sails like a dream. We could not be happier!

The over half century legacy of a Flying Scot sailboat speaks for itself; that is probably why you are reading this review. This is not by accident. The real legacy is the experienced team/family making them in the western Maryland town of Deer Park. They not only have a passion for sailing, but also emphasize with the customer point of view. Our experience could not have been better! Although standard offers are Racing and Recreational models, they are knowable, flexible, and sensitive to customer desires. We wanted our FS to be family oriented, but not preclude performance and future racing. “Fun” was the word we used to describe many of our choices. Tyler Andrews was able to take his considerable experience and design a boat to match our general description: detune racing model rather than building up a recreational model. Even spent extra effort to find custom color we wanted for the hull. Only one word describes our experience working with the whole professional Flying Scot team to launch our new sailboat (Free Spirit): FUN!

Please feel free to call us, 8-4 Eastern, Mon-Fri.

Flying Scot Inc.| 800-864-7208 | 301-334-4848 | [email protected]

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University of Georgia Sailing Chalk Talk 16: How to Rig a Flying ScotWelcome to our video series! Our growth has been exponential and in efforts to reach as ...

Thank you! General Instructions: We do have some of our general instructions online below. However, many of our kit instructions only come with the kits, but are available by calling the factory. Official Plans. Balsa Instructions Complete. Flying Scot under-seat Storage Hammocks-v2 (2) Masthead Install. Boarding Ladder.

Flying Scot Sailboats [email protected] FLYING SCOT ® , INC. 157 CEMETERY STREET DEER PARK, MARYLAND 21550 GPS N 39 25.608 W 79 19.622 Rig a Flying Scot - Introduction This rigging guide has 9 illustrated steps. Rigging a Flying Scot should take no more than 20 minutes once you have experience. Please read the introduction- the steps

Rigging the Flying Scot (a bit dated) - stepping the mast along with some other assembly

Rigging and Tuning the Flying Scot. Course. 21 Lessons. Learn to rig the standard and running rigging and learn how to tune the the Flying Scot for maximum performance. Buy now Learn more.

The Flying Scot is a one design boat which means that all the boats are the same and only minor modifications are allowed under the rules. In my following blog series, I will go over everything that we ... Standing Rigging - Your boat's standing rigging is an extremely important aspect of making the Flying Scot fast because the rake, stay ...

Standing Rigging - Your boat's standing rigging is an extremely important aspect of making the Flying Scot fast because the rake, stay tensions, and sail setup adjustments are all based on the symmetry of the rig. If the tip of the mast is not dead center, then the sails will be slightly different on each tack, and it will be difficult to ...

Rigging the Flying Scot (a bit dated) - installing the rudder and launching the boat along with some other assembly

This page offers great video on learning how to rig and sail a Flying Scot. It includes great advice from champion sailor Harry Carpenter and others. ... The Boat That Stays With You $ 0.00 0 items Navigation. Search for: Search. Home; About FS. ... Flying Scot Inc.| 800-864-7208 | 301-334-4848 | [email protected] . Main pages. Home; About FS ...

Learn to rig the standard and running rigging and learn how to tune the the Flying Scot for maximum performance. Learn to rig the standard and running rigging and learn how to tune the the Flying Scot for maximum performance. ... Rigging and Launching a Boat in Less Than 10 Minutes. Checks and Doublechecks . Rigging Checklist Download and Print.

Flying Scot is a 18′ 11″ / 5.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Gordon K. (Sandy) Douglass and built by Tanzer Industries Ltd., Douglass & McLeod, Customflex, Flying Scot, Inc., and Loftland Sail-craft Inc. starting in 1958. ... Rig and Sails.

Good checklist. Looks like a good list. It leaves out the steps of putting the main in the boom sail track, threading the outhaul and snapping the jib onto the forestay, attaching the jib halyard. You would also thread the jib sheets. I normally do these steps before launching. That way you raise the main, raise the jib, drop the board, and ...

FLYING SCOT TUNING GUIDE. BOAT PREPARATION. MAST AND SHROUD TENSION. The Loose Rig. To measure the aft rake of your mast, hoist a tape measure on the main halyard and hold it tight at the intersection of the transom and the rear deck. This measurement (without your jib up), should be 28' 4" to 28' 5 1/2".

Class History This 1957 one-design by racing champion Gordon Douglass celebrates 60 years of continuous production this year and remains one of North America's most successful planing one-designs. Hard bilges and weighted centerboard make the Flying Scot practically untippable and perfect for family daysailing, while its deliberately simple rig shifts focus from tuning and boat speed toward ...

Rigging Specs. Submitted by dfountain on Wed, 07/12/2017 - 12:12. Forums: Owning, Rigging, and Sailing the Flying Scot. I have a "new to me" boat (FS3928), I realize there are different configurations, but is there a listing of suggested lines? I need to replace everything and don't know where to start. Boat came from a sailing school and it's ...

Rigging the Flying Scot (a bit dated) - putting the main and jib sails on a getting under way

In this video we demonstrate how to prepare and launch the Flying Scot at a ramp.

Check out this informational video on the Flying Scot Sailboat. FS The Boat That Stays With You $ 0.00 0 ... Running Rigging; Racing Items; Trailer; Used Boats; Clearance; How-To Guide. How-To-Video; Contact Us. Come See Us; Search for: Search. Video. Please feel free to call us, 8-4 Eastern, Mon-Fri. Flying Scot Inc.| 800-864-7208 | 301-334 ...

A boat with a BN of 1.6 or greater is a boat that will be reefed often in offshore cruising. Derek Harvey, "Multihulls for Cruising and Racing", International Marine, Camden, Maine, 1991, states that a BN of 1 is generally accepted as the dividing line between so-called slow and fast multihulls.

Posted by Rod Favela on Nov 28th 2015. There are five critical dimensions that are needed to spec out and build a shroud or stay on any sailboat: - Pin to pin or bearing point to pin length. - Diameter of the cable. - Diameter of upper and lower pins. - Type of upper and lower terminals. - Type of cable (1x19, Compact strand, Dyform, or 7 strand).

Flying Scot. $30; Boat Handling. Course; ... You'll learn safe sailing basics, boat handling, tactics, rigging, tuning, plus race committee basics and powerboat safety to help volunteers run better and safer races. We'll even share proven fleet building best practices so you can help grow the sport of sailing.

Upon delivery to Glen Lake, MI, Tyler was awesome in rigging the boat and taking us on an orientation sail. His experience and insight were shared in a humble and encouraging manner. ... Only one word describes our experience working with the whole professional Flying Scot team to launch our new sailboat (Free Spirit): FUN! Please feel free to ...

Bundle: Introduction to Sailboat Racing. Purchase this bundle of courses and save big. These courses are what you need to get started in sailboat racing and become a Rock Star Certified racer. You'll learn safe sailing basics, boat handling, tactics, rigging, tuning, plus race committee basics and powerboat safety to help volunteers run better ...

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Room Escape Journey - Season 3 Activities

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Escape Rooms for 8 People: Pros & Cons

Escape rooms have become a popular form of entertainment for groups of friends, family, or coworkers. These interactive games require participants to solve puzzles, find clues, and work together to escape a themed room within a set time limit. With a group of 8 people, the experience can be even more exciting and challenging. However, there are pros and cons to consider when booking an escape room for a large group. This article will explore both sides to help you make an informed decision.

Pros & Cons of 8 People Escape Rooms

Pay Less Per Person As the group size increases, the cost per person decreases. This means that you can save a considerable amount of money when you book an escape room for a larger group, especially in expensive cities like Los Angeles. You can save over $10 per person by booking for eight people compared to a two-player booking. With the money you save, you could even explore the city and enjoy other activities together, creating more memories and experiences that will last a lifetime.

Play with the Whole Family or Invite All Your Best Friends With a group of 8 people, you can invite all your best friends or the whole family to join in on the fun. This will create a memorable experience that you can all share together. It's also a great way to challenge each other and work together to solve puzzles and clues. When you finally escape the room, you will have a sense of accomplishment that you can all celebrate together.

Ideal for Events and Parties Questroom is ideal for events and parties. Whether it's a birthday celebration, a bachelor or bachelorette party, or a team-building event for your coworkers, an escape room provides a fun and challenging activity for everyone to enjoy. With a group of 8 people, you can split into teams and compete against each other to see who can escape the fastest.

Greater Chance to Escape from Even in The Most Difficult Room With a group of 8 people, you have a greater chance of escaping even the most difficult room. This is because you have more people to work together and solve puzzles. Each person can bring their own unique perspective and skills to the table, which can be incredibly helpful in solving complex puzzles.

Less Space for Action One potential drawback of booking an escape room for 8 people is that there may be less physical space to move around and work together. With more people in the room, maneuvering can be difficult, and everyone may not have a chance to participate in every activity. But this can be easily solved by distributing the group into smaller teams that can work in different areas of the room. This allows for more space and encourages teamwork and collaboration among the different subgroups.

Difficulties with Communication One potential challenge with a larger group is that it can be difficult to communicate effectively, especially when it comes to making decisions. With more people involved, there may be more opinions and ideas to consider, which can lead to confusion and indecision. This can be solved by choosing a leader to coordinate decisions and ensure everyone's input is heard. The leader can help facilitate the discussion and keep everyone on track, making reaching a consensus and moving forward with the game easier.

The Best Escape Rooms For Big Teams

Malediction.

The story behind this escape room is about a malevolent Witch and a brave Warrior whose battle ended with the Warrior being transformed into stone under the Witch's curse. To survive and find your way home, you and your team must break into the Witch's cabin and create a magical elixir to transform the Warrior back. If you fail, you may become the next stone statue. Book Malediction for your next group event or party, and enjoy an unforgettable and exciting adventure together!

As the sun set on a typical summer day, you and your friends rode home on your bikes. But as the sun disappeared, a new light caught your attention. It was blinking and beautiful, drawing you deeper into the forest. Eventually, you came across a house you had never seen before. The lights were gone, but you felt compelled to investigate. With a small push on the door, you were ready to embark on an adventure.

Da Vinci's Challenge

The setting is 15th-century Florence, where young minds crave the opportunity to work with the famous academic Leonardo Da Vinci. As a student, you enter his workshop, only to discover that the entire room is a test to determine if you are worthy of his effort. This game can even hold 10 players now to really give you an edge. Will you be able to prove your worth and avoid being forgotten by history?

Project Minotaur

While on vacation, you and your friends participate in a Temple Tour that turns out to be boring. Across from the last site, there is a large military base. When you ask your guide about it, they deny it, which only makes you more curious. You sneak away from the tour and find an opening in the fence. As soon as you realize what's going on, you realize it wasn't the best idea. You and your friends have become the newest test subjects for PROJECT: MINOTAUR. Before encountering the experiment's namesake, can you leave the base?

Spell Breakers

You find yourselves lost in a magical forest and stumble upon a mystical cabin. As you approach, you hear whispers and echoes of a cursed tale about an evil witch and a brave warrior. The Warrior fought hard to defeat the Witch, but ultimately, the Witch was too powerful and turned the Warrior to stone with a curse. To find your way home, you must break into the Witch's cabin and create a magical potion to transform the Warrior back, or you may suffer the same fate as stone statues.

Gather a Team and Go On an Adventure with Us!

Whether you're celebrating a special occasion or just looking for a fun activity with friends, Questroom's large group escape rooms are a perfect choice. With a team of up to 8 people, you can explore exciting themed rooms and work together to solve puzzles and clues.

Book your next event or party with us and make unforgettable memories that will last a lifetime. Online booking is available, or you can contact us directly at 310-707-1240 or [email protected] .

Don't wait – start planning your adventure today with Questroom!

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What happens if you don't escape an escape room.

Your eyes scan the room frantically for clues, feeling a rush of anxiety. Your sweaty hands grasp at puzzle pieces while fear tightens its grip around your throat. With no rescue in sight, there's still a lot to figure out. The game concludes with a lethal gas filling the room. Just like you, The Ca

Exploring Accessibility: Physical Considerations in Escape Rooms

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Escape rooms of questroom: what is more puzzles or adventures.

Escape rooms have become a global phenomenon, captivating adventure seekers and puzzle enthusiasts alike. With an ever-growing number of locations and themes to choose from, the popularity of escape rooms continues to soar. But what makes a truly remarkable escape room experience? In this blog post,

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Escape rooms horror levels: how scary can an escape room be.

Escape rooms are immersive and interactive experiences where participants are locked in a room and must solve puzzles and find clues to escape within a set time limit. These rooms vary in difficulty level, genre, and horror level, offering a wide range of experiences for players. When it comes to ho

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New year's eve party ideas for an unforgettable family celebration.

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Room Escape Journey: Season 7 Answers for iPhone - iPad

• Developer: Betty Vela
• Publisher: Betty Vela
• Genre: Puzzle
• Release: Apr 8, 2020
• Platform: iPhone - iPad
• ESRB: Not Set

Question & Answers

Level 8, the four books.

Level 8 What do you do with the four books?

Answer from: Kelly Figure out which order to pull the books so all stay out

• Aug 30, 2023

The Evolution of Escape Rooms: From 1st to 3rd Generation

Introduction: a journey through time.

Escape rooms have come a long way, transforming from simple physical puzzles to cutting-edge, immersive experiences. Let's take a journey through the evolution, from the charming 1st generation rooms to the state-of-the-art 3rd generation escapes.

1st Generation: The Origins

The first generation of escape rooms focused on the basics:

Physical Locks and Keys: Tangible puzzles and hands-on clues created a tactile and engaging experience.

Straightforward Storytelling: Narrative was often secondary, providing context rather than driving the game.

Low Tech: Simplicity was the key, with puzzles relying on observation and logic.

2nd Generation: The Leap Forward

Building on the foundations of the 1st generation, 2nd generation escape rooms introduced:

Integration of Technology: Electronic locks, light effects, and audio-visual elements enhanced immersion.

Complex Narratives: The storytelling became a vital part of the experience, adding depth and intrigue.

Diverse Puzzles: A broader variety of challenges catered to different problem-solving approaches.

3rd Generation: The Apex of Innovation

3rd generation escape rooms represent the future of the genre, offering:

Fully Immersive Experience: Augmented reality, special effects, and interactive displays create a living adventure.

Customized Gameplay: These rooms adapt to player progress and decisions, making each experience unique.

World-Class Puzzles: With an emphasis on creativity and execution, puzzles have reached a new level of sophistication.

Conclusion: A Tapestry of Adventure

From the humble beginnings of 1st generation rooms to the breathtaking innovations of 3rd generation escapes, the world of escape rooms has never been more vibrant and diverse. Whether you're nostalgic for the hands-on charm of early escape games or eager to explore the forefront of technology and design, the evolution of escape rooms ensures a thrilling adventure for every enthusiast.

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• WALKTHROUGHS
• Cheats & Tips
• Game Guides

Level 8: The Movie Walkthrough

Continuing on in Act 1 of 50 Tiny Room Escape after completing Level 07 , the next room we find ourselves in is a home Movie Theatre. But Where is the door?

Level 08 - The Movie

Collectible : on the left speaker.

Begin by viewing the back of the left chair. Tap the popcorn until it empties and you can collect money . Then move the trash under the chair and collect an Idol (Gold).

Then view the back of the other Chair

Collectible : in the container under the chair.

Turn the view to face the other direction, you will see some numbers on the back wall, 2 are visible from one side and 2 from the other.

Collect another Idol (green) from behind the speaker now on the left.

View the chair on the left now and collect another Idol (grey) from the floor.

Next view the chair on the right and tap the button on the left arm to recline it. Collect a Receipt from under the back cushion.

Next view the cabinet doors on the back wall, there is a QR code the same as on the Receipt.

Use the code from the receipt to unlock the doors.

You then need to place the Money into the slot at the bottom to open them.

Collect the Lens that appears.

Now view the projector and add the Lens to it. Then tap the button on the right to tun it on. You will see a pattern of green lights on the left.

Turn to the front again and view the left side of the white cabinet. Collect another Idol (grey) from the speaker on the left.

Then open the door on the cabinet and examine the box inside. Open it to collect another Idol (Green).

View the white cabinet on the right to see a lock with 3 sliders. Set these to the correct positions to open it.

You need to match the layout of the green lights on the projector. Moving each of the sliders will also move the others.

Collect 1 more Idol (gold) from inside.

Now you have 6 idols you can place them on the 6 spots on top of the quite cabinet.

Examine the idols to see that each type have a different symbol underneath. Match these to the symbols on the cabinet.

Green, Grey, Gold, Grey, Gold, Green

The screen will come done.

Now view the laptop on the table and open it. You need a code.

The code is the numbers on the back wall.

Once it unlocks tap the Projector icon and then to the Work button.

You now see a maze on the screen. This is a puzzle.

• Notice that the maze has arrow symbols.
• The Idol heads also have arrows on top of them.
• Solve the maze and find the 6 arrow symbols that you need to pass over to get to the exit.
• Turn the idols so that the arrows on top match those from the maze solution.

Down, Left, Down, Right, Up, Up

A hidden door will open on the right. Use this to Escape

Move on to Level 09

We have questions and answers related to this topic which may also help you: Show all

Comments & Replies

• Level 1: Perception
• Level 2: Youth
• Level 3: The Call
• Level 4: Gambling
• Level 5: Heat it Up
• Level 6: Reflection
• Level 7: Catch
• Level 8: The Movie
• Level 9: Remote
• Level 10: Luck
• Level 11: Insight
• Level 12: Scheme
• Level 13: Authority
• Level 14: Care
• Level 15: Entertainment
• Level 16: Tableware
• Level 17: Convenience
• Level 18: Melody
• Level 19: Flow
• Level 20: Unlock
• Level 21: Midnight
• Level 22: Anvil
• Level 23: Antiquity
• Level 24: Outlaw
• Level 25: Fright
• Level 26: Wild West
• Level 27: Antiquity
• Level 28: Bushido
• Level 29: Succession
• Level 30: Disarming
• When will more Tiny Room Escape levels be released

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Room Escape 3D

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Room Escape 3D is an interesting stealth puzzle game to play. Here is our little prisoner who want to escape from the prisons. Help him to find the key and exit the door. Help him to escape with out getting caught by the police. This fun game has much more interesting puzzles, hide from the police and reach the destination. Play more games only on y8.com

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