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Become a Temporary Londoner: 10 Tips for Experiencing Untouristy London

London is the most entertaining city in Europe —  and the fun extends well beyond its famous sights. London is extraordinarily crowded these days , and escaping from the tourist hordes is more important than ever. Don’t forget to take a break from the sightseeing grind to actually enjoy London . Do a deep dive into the city, and become a temporary Londoner. Explore parks, markets, and neighborhoods where you’re the only out-of-towner.

I just returned from a two-week visit to London, updating our Rick Steves London guidebook . At my typical breakneck pace, two weeks sounds like an eternity. In London, it’s a sprint. Racing from sight to sight, I kept getting hit with waves of nostalgia for my all-time-favorite visit, when my wife and I rented an apartment here for an entire week. We had one goal: Live like a Londoner. Do nothing touristy. And never pass through a museum turnstile. We got tips from friends who lived or had lived in the city, and we read up on blogs designed for locals — not for tourists. ( Thank goodness .) And it turned out to be one of the best weeks of travel we’ve ever enjoyed.

Based on that trip — and years of other London visits — I’ve assembled this collection of my 10 favorite ways to bust out of the tourist rut and settle into the real London. One caveat: London has so much to offer that another traveler might have an entirely different list, which would likely be just as good as this one. (I’d love to hear your suggestions in the Comments.)

1. Escape “The City” in the Inns of Court

The one-square-mile historic core of London — called simply The City — is a busy and intense commercial district, where third-wave coffee shops and glitzy skyscrapers with clever nicknames mingle with Wren churches and Cockney accents. The former stomping grounds of Shakespeare and Dickens, The City exerts a strong magnetism on travelers. Its narrow streets are an exhausting traffic jam of distracted, slowpoke tourists blocking the sidewalk and impatient office drones sprinting through their lunch break.

Thank goodness for the Inns of Court. While following The City Walk in our Rick Steves London guidebook , I was ready for an escape from congested urban streets. The tour told me to step through an easy-to-miss doorway at No. 17 Fleet Street…and instantly, I was swallowed up by tranquil gardens with chirping birds and mellow Londoners speaking in hushed tones — as if double-decker buses weren’t rumbling by just a few steps away.

The Inns of Court — a gaggle of professional associations for lawyers — occupies a sprawling chunk of The City, stretching from Fleet Street all the way down to the Thames. It’s the open-to-the-public stomping grounds of barristers and law interns who work at the Royal Courts of Justice across the street. This sprawling series of interconnected, higgledy-piggledy courtyards, parks, and lanes is a delight to get lost in. You’ll find gurgling fountains, inviting benches, pristine gardens, stately red-brick buildings, and virtually no tourists.

If that’s not enough to slow your pulse, several nearby historic churches offer free lunchtime concerts around 1:15 p.m., designed to provide office workers with a cultured break from a busy workday. Options include Temple Church in the Inns of Court (Wednesdays), St. Bride’s (usually Tuesdays and Fridays), and St. Dunstan-in-the-West (Fridays).

2. Browse Hipster Street Markets

On a sunny Saturday, the park called London Fields is filled with thousands of people — out enjoying the green space after gorging themselves at their choice of trendy food trucks. It looks like a hipster Woodstock. Strolling a world of tattooed new dads with coiffed beards and vintage eyeglasses pushing prams, I realized that Hackney is where London’s hipsters go to breed.

At the southern edge of London Fields begins Broadway Market — which is the name both of this area’s main drag, and of the lively open-air festival of foods and crafts that fills it each Saturday. This otherwise nondescript Victorian strip becomes ground zero for all that’s hip and trendy, with an edge of pretense: seasonal organic produce, designer creams and lotions, farm-fresh meat and eggs, creative jewelry,  handmade fashions, twee craft projects, “bespoke” anything and everything, and a staggering variety of food trucks and other pop-up culinary offerings. (Don’t miss the Schoolyard Market — filling a leafy primary school playground, tucked just off the main drag, near the park — with the highest concentration of food stalls.)

Broadway Market is just one of many such London markets that are a delight to explore. In a previous post , I wrote about one of my favorite weekend street food hotspots, Maltby Street Rope Walk Market.

On Sundays, Brick Lane — in London’s achingly hip East End — becomes one big parade of food vendors, live music, and happy young Londoners, all jammed into a street-art-slathered, post-industrial cityscape. Walking the length of Brick Lane, you can dip into the UK’s largest assortment of vintage vendors , a food hall devoted entirely to vegan and vegetarian street food, and hole-in-the-wall shops selling gourmet chocolates and traditional bagels. If you keep going north, you’ll wind up at the more sedate but equally appealing Columbia Road Flower Market — ideal for buying a bouquet to brighten up your dumpy London hotel room.

And those are just a few examples of the many street markets that enliven London. The list goes on: Portobello Road Market on Fridays and Saturdays in Notting Hill; the everyday, funky Camden Lock Market along the Regent’s Canal (see the next item); Brixton Market , which runs Mondays through Saturdays in the rapidly gentrifying multicultural neighborhood south of central London; and many others. On that one-week visit to London, my wife and I set a goal of visiting a different street market every day…and we never tired of them.

3. Cycle the Regent’s Canal

Slicing through the middle of North London is Regent’s Canal, a long-forgotten  industrial waterway built in the early 19th century. Today, some parts of the canal remain industrial and blighty, while others are being tidied up.

The most charming area along the Regent’s Canal is Little Venice, in the northwest corner of central London. This neighborhood feels more Amsterdam than London: mossy, murky, tree-lined canals lined with houseboats.

When my wife and I asked our expat friends in London for suggestions on where to go for a bike ride, they said that Little Venice would be a fine spot to begin a low-impact pedal through town. And we were glad we took their advice. We rode the Tube to the Warwick Avenue station, grabbed bikes from London’s bike-share system, and followed the narrow towpath about two and a half miles along the canal.

While this route requires an occasional detour into city streets, for the most part it stays along the tranquil canal, offering glimpses of little-seen-by-tourists facets of London: sleepy and cozy residential zones, heavy willow boughs dipping into the murky waters, forgotten industrial canals slathered with street art,  old barges used as garbage scows or floating homes, blocky modern residential developments, dreamy lily-padded eddies out of a Vermeer painting,  and the back edge of Regent’s Park and the London Zoo.

The occasional tour boat would trundle past, plying the still and brown waters — a reminder of the time when the Regent’s Canal was a virtual highway for transporting goods throughout the city.

Soon we pedaled our way into the sprawling, funky Camden Lock Market. Dropping off our bikes at one of the ubiquitous return stations, we explored the thriving food circus, enjoyed a great street-food lunch, then hopped the Tube back to the center.

If we’d had more time (and if it weren’t so hot), we could have pedaled around Regent’s Park a bit more, or even followed the canal farther east. The options are endless. Just be careful to stay on the towpath — inexperienced or distracted cyclists might find it all too easy to go for an inadvertent dip in the mucky water.

4. Get a Cheap “Day Ticket” for West End Theatre

I love the London theater (ahem, “theatre”) scene. But it can be expensive, and the big-name plays sell out well ahead. Fortunately, same-day tickets (called “day seats”) are a screamin’ deal for frugal procrastinators who enjoy being spontaneous. It’s a smart way for savvy Londoners to enjoy budget theater — and it works for visitors, too.

“Day seats” are sold only in person when the box office first opens  (typically at 10:00; for popular shows, people start lining up much earlier). These same-day-only tickets cost around £20 (about $25); sometimes they’re front-row seats, while other times they can be in the nosebleed section or have a restricted view.

Over the years, I’ve taken advantage of day seats to see several London plays — from big, bombastic musicals ( Wicked, Miss Saigon, The Lion King ) to lower-key plays starring well-known actors (Stephen Merchant in The Mentalists ). I might not splurge on full-price tickets for some of those shows, but when you can get a great seat for little more than the price of a movie ticket, it’s hard to resist. In most cases, I was in the front row — where the only discernible downside is that you can’t see the actors’ shoes, and sometimes the singers spit on you a little bit when belting out a tune. For this, you pay a fraction of what the suckers sitting immediately behind you paid.

The best roundup of day seats is on the very low-tech Theatre Monkey website . Ignore the 2004- vintage graphics and skim the priceless list of which shows offer these cheap tickets — with recent reports from theater lovers of how early they got to the box office, and which seats they snagged. Each show’s website also has information about their own day seats policy.

This strategy works best for shows that have been around for a while and are no longer “hot tickets.” In fact, the most popular shows don’t bother   with day seats at all. However, a few big-name shows distribute discounted, last-minute tickets in a fun way. For example, when I was in London a few weeks ago, The Book of Mormon had a lottery system for anyone who showed up between 17:00 and 17:30 for that evening’s performance. At 17:30,  they began a drawing, in which 20 fortunate theater-lovers won the opportunity to buy heavily discounted tickets. They turned the event into an entertaining little spectacle in itself, with a wisecracking emcee pulling each name to the cheers and jeers of the gathered crowd. It’s the most fun I’ve ever had not getting a ticket for a show.

Hamilton — currently the hottest ticket in town, with affordable seats that sell out months in advance — has a “lucky seat” lottery : Submit your information on their website for the chance to buy last-minute £10 tickets. (I entered this about 10 times during my London visit — and I was 0-for-10. Oh, well…worth a try.)

If you happen to be near a theater when the box office opens, try dropping by to see what’s available tonight. Assuming you go into it with that “worth a try” attitude, you may be pleasantly surprised.

5. Hike across Hampstead Heath (with or without Roger Ebert)

While I’ve had many fine strolls around London, my favorite was the time I had Roger Ebert as my guide through the sprawling North London parklands of Hampstead Heath. It’s the kind of place where bobbies ride horses as if they were Mister Darcy.

As a cinephile who loves movies as much as I love travel, I’ve admired Roger Ebert’s work since I was a teenager in small-town Ohio. When I discovered that he wrote a book called The Perfect London Walk , it was a marriage of two of my favorite things. I found a used copy online (for about $20) and devoted half a day to following its 30-year-old instructions through Hampstead Heath. By today’s standards, the book is endearingly low-tech; each step of the walk is illustrated with grainy black-and-white photographs that were clearly shot on the run. But it delivered on its promise: an unusually intimate and satisfying look at a corner of London most tourists miss.

With or without Roger Ebert, Hampstead Heath is well worth a visit. Ride the Tube to the Hampstead stop, wander through the village on Flask Walk — which becomes Well Walk — then enter Hampstead Heath near the mixed bathing pond. Winding your way through the park, you’ll pop out at Parliament Hill, offering grand (if distant) views of the London skyline.

Then walk up through the park all the way to Kenwood House — a stately manor overlooking the rolling hills (and familiar to eagle-eyed Notting Hill fans for an unfortunate “live mic” incident). Exiting the park behind the mansion, it’s a short walk to the Spaniards Inn , a classic London pub with a generous outdoor terrace.

Tucked along the east side of Hampstead Heath is the charming bedroom community of Highgate, home to Highgate Cemetery — London’s answer to Père Lachaise, with grand old tombs of VIPs silently aging in a tranquil wood. It’s a fine place wrap up your outing before heading back to town.

The striking thing about Hampstead Heath is the feeling that you’re fully out in nature, even though you’re just a short Tube ride from the center. I can’t think a better place to escape London’s urban intensity. Returning to civilization, you feel that you’ve had a rugged adventure.

6. Grab a Pint after Work and Drink It Outside

Britain is famous for its many pubs, each one a fine opportunity to tip a glass of a local ale while making new friends. And in London, pubs are an après-work mainstay. It seems that everyone who leaves their office heads straight to their favorite pub to catch up with friends. And when the weather’s fine, they do it out on the curb.

While “public consumption” is taboo stateside, in London it’s a social institution. Popular pubs have more people outside than inside — spilling out onto the sidewalk, unapologetically blocking the street, creating one big, gregarious scrum of happy drinkers. Walking anywhere in the city between the hours of about 5 and 7 p.m., I love coming across these convivial, civilized keg parties.

If you want to take part, navigate your way to the bar to order, then bring your pint out to the street. Strike up a conversation with a Londoner. Or introverts can just eavesdrop on the office gossip about people you’ll never work with, Karen’s latest dating drama, and football chatter.

7. Head to Shoreditch for Dinner and Street Art

Shoreditch, in the East End, is one of London’s culinary hotspots. It’s where talented young chefs transition from food trucks to brick-and-mortar, with lower rents and lower stakes than more central neighborhoods. (Many chefs test their mettle in Shoreditch before opening their second restaurant in central, high-rent Soho.)  On my latest trip, one highlight was scouting new Shoreditch restaurants for our Rick Steves London guidebook .

Right at the Shoreditch High Street train station is the Boxpark — a gigantic Lego-like stack of shipping containers filled with dozens of pop-up food and craft vendors. The lineup is constantly changing; this time around, I was especially tempted by the Korean BBQ burritos, vegan burgers, and bubble waffles.

A short walk away is a staggering array of tempting eateries: Brat , which earned a Michelin star in 2018, is this area’s upscale splurge, with a rustic-chic ambience. The cuisine is uncomplicated, ingredient-focused modern English with Basque accents — top-quality fish, meats, and seasonal vegetables cooked on an open fire. Just downstairs is Smoking Goat , a Thai barbecue bar promising elevated dishes inspired by Bangkok canteens: chili-and-fish-sauce chicken wings, whole fish cooked in Thai herbs, and smoked brisket and bone marrow curry. And around the corner is the sprawling, cacophonous, industrial-mod PizzaEast — a Shoreditch favorite for wood-fired pizzas.

Additional places are near Brick Lane, a short walk away. Smokestak feels like the classic East End eatery: a heavy-duty industrial interior of battered beams and steel (both rusted and stainless), all bathed in the rich smoke of the open fire. The barbecue menu includes dry-aged beef, brisket, whole grilled fish, and a few charred veggie options. And Gunpowder is an upmarket, modern alternative to the traditional curry houses on Brick Lane.

Shoreditch also has some of the best street art in London, and in Europe. Acclaimed artists (including Banksy and Shepard Fairey) have left their mark on remnants of the East End’s industrial heritage. If you’ve never really understood the difference between “graffiti” and “street art,” an open-minded walk through Shoreditch can be instructive and inspiring. (Rivington Street has some famous examples; closer to Brick Lane, I found myself doing laps on Hanbury Street and Fashion Street.)

8. Lounge on a Sling-Back Deck Chair (or Hit the “Beach”)

When the weather’s splendid, there are few cities with more enjoyable parks to relax in than London. On a sunny summer day, the city comes to life, and every public space is teeming with people enjoying life.

On recent visits, I’ve noticed that Londoners have a particular affinity for sling-back deck chairs — the kind that let you lean back and really lounge. In many major parks (including Regent’s Park, Hyde Park/Kensington Gardens, and St. James’s Park) you’ll see green-and-white-striped chairs strategically situated under shady trees and next to idyllic duck ponds.

The truly “Londoner” thing to do is to bring your own blanket to spread out on the lawn. But if you’re packing light and taking a break from sightseeing — and haven’t had the foresight to B.Y.O. blanket — these chairs can be the perfect spot to take a load off. Be ready for an attendant to come by and ask for a small payment for using the chairs (less than £2 per hour).

I’ve started spotting these same types of chairs elsewhere in the city. On this trip, Paternoster Square — the urban people zone hiding a few steps behind St. Paul’s — had several of these (free) chairs set up for a little urban break.

Not that Londoners need a sling-back chair to enjoy a nice day. If you’re in London when it’s balmy, you’ll even see locals taking advantage of the very narrow sandy “beaches” that line the Thames. When it’s low tide in downtown London, you’ll see people splayed out on beach towels, toddlers splashing in the river, and kids skipping stones.

9. Seek Out Yellow Brick

After years of visits, it finally dawned on me: Most of my favorite, least touristy London memories come against a backdrop of yellow bricks. That’s because yellow brick was once used for industrial works, many of which have more recently been transformed into trendy hangouts. In today’s London, yellow bricks often accompany a vibrant, youthful, artist-stalls-and-food-trucks scene.

Several of the places I’ve already mentioned are surrounded by yellow bricks, including much of the Regent’s Canal and Camden Lock Market, and the Brick Lane Market at the old Truman Brewery in the East End.

On my latest trip, I discovered another yellow-brick fun zone: A five-minute walk behind St. Pancras and King’s Cross train stations, the Regent’s Canal has been developed into the glittering new Coal Drops Yard development of shopping malls, high-end restaurants, and office blocks. This was the place where coal would arrive on train cars, then be dropped onto barges along the Regent’s Canal for distribution around London. Long forgotten, this up-and-coming area is now being transformed into a lively people zone.

Arriving at day’s end at King’s Cross Station (after side-tripping to Cambridge), I followed my curiosity to the newly built complex. It turned out to be a relaxing place to unwind after a busy day of sightseeing. A nchored by a branch of Dishoom , London’s ultimate elevated Indian restaurant, Coal Drops Yard has a wide lineup of shops, eateries, bars, clubs, kid-friendly dancing fountains, relaxing places to stretch out, and much more.

The next time you do some homework and seek out a hot new London area, don’t be surprised if you see yellow brick when you arrive.

10. Have an English Breakfast or a Spot of Tea…with a Twist

The classic “English fry-up” — a massive breakfast plate stacked with eggs, bacon, “bangers” (sausages), grilled tomato, baked beans, and toast or fry bread — is a memorable part to any visit to Britain. (And underemployed cardiologists love it.) Of course, most Londoners don’t begin their day with such a huge meal. But the city has a burgeoning weekend brunch culture that offers a more modern (and healthier) spin on English breakfast.

This scene changes so fast, it’s hard to keep track of which brunch places are currently hot. But one good bet is to try restaurants that are already well-regarded for dinner. On this trip, I checked out Nopi — owned by acclaimed celebrity chef Yotam Ottolenghi — and the previously mentioned Smoking Goat and Dishoom , all of which also offer weekend brunch. There are also, increasingly, brunch-only hole-in-the-walls serving exquisitely composed eggs benedict, syrup-soaked waffles, and bespoke omelets. For the latest, check around online; good roundups include this one from TimeOut , this one from The Guardian , and this one from CN Traveler .

The other English custom adored by tourists is afternoon tea. And there are plenty of high-end tea rooms that will happily extract £50 (about $65) per person for the privilege of serving you a little tower of delicate finger sandwiches in opulent surroundings. They’ll even cut the crusts off for you.

Londoners also appreciate a spot of tea, but they steer clear of the touristy (and very expensive) places — except, perhaps, for special occasions. Instead, they enjoy a budget cuppa at a department store cafeteria or a humbler café. For example, one of my favorite longtime tips in our Rick Steves London guidebook is to assemble an affordable tea at the fifth-floor café at Europe’s biggest bookstore, the great Waterstone’s on Piccadilly…just a few steps from the famous Fortnum & Mason tea room.

Also, keep in mind that “Afternoon tea” (or the similar “high tea”) — which is essentially a small meal of sandwiches and cakes — is overkill for many out-of-towners. It’s easier on both your budget and your waistline to settle for the simpler “cream tea”: a small pot of tea and a scone with clotted cream and jam.

Or try something different. For a twist on the classic high tea, consider the “Trader’s High Tea” at Cinnamon Bazaar — where the tea is India Masala Chai, and the sweets and sandwiches all come with an Indian spin.

Any Other Suggestions?

Samuel Johnson nailed it when he uttered his often-repeated quote: “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.” If you’re visiting London, challenge yourself to go beyond the big sights, break out of the tourist rut, and truly experience the city…as a temporary Londoner.

What’s your favorite “temporary Londoner” experience?

Stay tuned for more reports from my recent London visit. I’ve already posted about my favorite undiscovered street food market ; viewing Brexit through the long lens of history ; and tips for beating the long lines at major sights. And there’s more to come. (To be sure you don’t miss any, you can “like” me on Facebook.)

I was in town updating our Rick Steves London guidebook . Many of the tips in this post came directly from that book — and others will be added to the upcoming 2020 edition.

Our one-week London city tour is a great choice for those who really want to settle in to one of Europe’s greatest cities. The itinerary is designed to combine both the major sights and “temporary Londoner” activities like the ones described here — with ample free time to make your own discoveries.

40 Replies to “Become a Temporary Londoner: 10 Tips for Experiencing Untouristy London”

Go to Mass….I’m a Catholic (not a very good one) but my traveling partner, my sister Anna, is faithful so on Sunday we asked the hotel desk clerk to direct us to a Roman Catholic Church….it was amazing to hear all the same prayers but with an English accent….we did the same thing in France….just so touching to give the peace in French (“que la paix soit avec toi”….thank you Google translator) ….an inexpensive morning put we gained so much… BUT as always there WAS a 2nd collection…CATHOLICS…lol

I’ve always gone to matins at Westminster Abbey each Sunday when visiting London. I always try to arrive @ 9:15 as the 8:00 communion service is winding down. You can look around the nave and possible other area in and around the quire. If possible you may be able to get someone to make a reservation for you to set in the quire and be near the choir.

Warning: dress appropriately and act appropriately as you are in church on the high day of the week – Sunday.

I went to mass in a small town in Italy on All Saints Day – November 1. They did a rousing rendition of When The Saints Go Marching In – in English.

Laughed at the dumpy hotel room comment…. Stayed at The Grovsenor London….. An elaborate lobby and as you said dumpy room …. Hope to visit next year with a change of venue…. Thank you …..

I have stayed in many fine hotels and B&Bs in London, and many of them–even ones that are very nice otherwise!–have rooms that might qualify as “dumpy” in other places. I’ve just come to accept that if you want to stay in a characteristic old townhouse in London (rather than a cookie-cutter chain hotel), you can’t expect right angles, silent plumbing, and perfectly tidy conditions. I guess that in London, peeling wallpaper and cracked plaster just add to the charm.

Mmmmm. Our first time in London last June was during the third week of hot dry weather. We enjoyed staying at Rick’s recommended Lime Tree Inn in Belgravia…tall ceilings, winding stairs and comfy beds…small but charming garden and patio. Staff was accommodating and friendly,adjusting breakfast to our early morning departure. Ten min, walk from the Palace, Victoria Station and St James Park. Only downside was that in the 90 degree days our huge windows faced west and our room was a bit toasty! But fans and open windows at night helped. Would definitely recommend this lovely B&B!

I love London and am planning a two week solo vacation next spring. I am starting with a 2night stay in Windsor,spending time see all the Tourist things, since I haven’t been to Hampton Court, Kew Gardens or the Tower. .my plan it to do tourist treks every week their day. I want to see a play at The Globe and have Tea at. The Houses of Parliament. In all my trips to London I have truly lived like a Local. But now I must see these places. If I can arrange a third week, I am spending the time in Oxford and Stratford to do some family genealogy. Your list is terrific. I would also recommend the flower mart on Columbia Road and tea from a tea truck.

Our first trip to London was in July, 1999. One of the things I knew I had to do on that trip was see Julius Caesar at the Globe — since 1999 was the 400th anniversary of the Globe’s opening and scholars believe that this play was the first produced at the Globe. Mark Rylance was the director of the theater (and also played Caesar’s wife).

I was in the top tier of seats on the extreme right side of the stage (as you face it). The realization that I was hearing words first spoken 400 years ago not far from where I was actually sitting produced an almost mystical feeling that Shakespeare’s spirit was hovering over the theater as the play progressed. (I think he was pleased.)

I try to get to a play at the Globe every time we are in London, though none have quite been as powerful as that first experience. If you can go to Stratford, that would be worthwhile (though very touristy), especially after seeing one of Shakespeare’s plays at the Globe.

From which small Ohio town do you hail? I live in Dayton, and I was in London the week before Memorial Day. I spent my whole trip in Ealing.

I grew up in Delaware, Ohio, about a half-hour north of Columbus. I’ve heard Ealing is a great non-touristy spot that’s still relatively handy to the center of town. Sounds like a fun trip!

Home of Ohio Wesleyan! My mother went to college there, and took the whole family to a reunion when I was in high school. I remember going with my siblings to Bun’s for breakfast and dinner while the parents were busy.

Similar to the comment ‘go to mass’, do a bit of searching and find any church that has an evensong or other choral service. You don’t have to pretend to be a parishioner. Just go, be respectful, and be blown away by exquisite choral singing from the land that made this high art ordinary.

I followed the RS guidebook and lined up for evensong at Windsor’s St. George Chapel in May 2017. Hoped to get a glimpse of the Queen (she was in residence) – didn’t – but the voices were incredible, and only about 15 of us there. When Harry and Meghan were married – the Queen sat in the same pew, just about a foot away from where I had sat!

Westminster Abbey and St. Paul’s both have choral evensong 6 times a week. You have to line up for the entry time (usually 1/2 hr prior to the service) and get to see the cathedral without the lines of tourists. We have often been able to sit in the choir, It is a short service and the choristers are magnificent.

I agree: An evensong can be a very powerful (and non-touristy) experience. I have enjoyed them in Wells, Durham, and Salisbury. One caveat is that an evensong really is a worship service–not intended as a “concert.” But everyone is welcome to attend.

We traditionally attend Evensong at Westminster Abbey – have been many times over the years. Confirm but usually it is 3:00 on Sunday and 5:00 other days. Entrance is via the Great West Door – you will see the short line up outside the gate – you are escorted in and out but you get to see it all and enjoy the quiet atmosphere and a good sit down. Visiting choirs from all over the world usually there in the summer months – boys and men in the winter.

Visit St Mary’s Putney. Great hidden history in the story of the Putney Debates during the English Civil War. Walk along the Thames to see the boathouses in the place where rowing was born.

Attend a football match; try for a Champions League game instead of the Posh Premier League. The games tend to be a bit more scrappy and entertaining, and the fans are generally friendlier and always open to recruiting new supporters. Avoid the post-game pubs with lots of folks with same colored jerseys, unless you are a supporter and know your stuff. Never try to bluff it.

Spend the day at Clapham Common or visit the pool at Tooting Bec – basically south of the River it is easier to live as a local. Brixton Street Market has been gentrifying since 2008- slowly-perfect pace in my opinion. Love that place!

Perfect timing. Our RS Best of England starts tomorrow at Bath, then ends in London and we’ve added stay days. This will be our third visit to London. Thanks for the tips and confirming some options already considered.

Have a great tour!

Allen Gardens off Brick Lane is a great place to watch street art in progress on the weekends. There’s also a Bohemian-Style hangout called nomadic gardens beyond the train tracks.

I missed Allen Gardens this trip, but it sounds great. I’ll have to check it out!

I recommend a trip to Fulham Palace, on the Thames, just across from Putney Bridge. Escape into nature, walking along magnificent old London plane trees & pop into the palace itself, the old summer retreat of the bishops of London until 1973. Visit the rose garden in the adjoining Bishop’s Park, where there is a memorial stone to the men from Hammersmith & Fulham who went to fight fascism in Spain with the International Brigade.

I went to London twice last year. In January, we stayed for five days in an Air BnB (with an actual host) in West Lambeth. Residential neighborhood, local pub where they began to know our names, not touristy, no lines anywhere. Walked through Vauxhall Gardens over the Thames to visit Tate Britain, Westminster, National Gallery, etc. Good tube connections to other museums. The weather in January was fine — 40-50 degrees. In October, I went for a work event including a tour of Craven Cottage which is a very old football (soccer) club in West London on the Thames. I’d venture to say that by going to a match there, you would not feel like a tourist!

Sounds like a great trip! I don’t know West Lambeth as well as I should…I’ll check it out next time.

I, too love London; it’s like no other place. Recently discovered a new-ish area between Covent Garden and Soho – Seven Dials. Just about the perfect central location in terms of access. Lots of food choices at varying price points. Interesting lineup of shops; surprisingly quiet. One of my favorite strategies for enjoying London is to book extra days and not plan anything. I just head out in a different direction each day, usually on foot, and just see what I find there. I might take the tube if I’m heading to a specific neighborhood, like Shoreditch. But even then, I’ll usually walk all the way back to where I’m staying. I’ve really enjoyed, particularly the eastern flanks of town, finding cool street art, artisan vendors, unexpected open spaces – and lots and lots of different types of people. But I think my favorite experience from my most recent visit (March 2019) was finding Stephen Hawking’s grave in Westminster Abbey – not two paces from Sir Isaac Newton’s. “Here lies what was mortal of Stephen Hawking,” says the marker.

I enjoy Seven Dials, too–that area, once a bit of a no-man’s land, has emerged nicely in recent years. They’ve spiffed up some little lanes and courtyards in that area–such as Floral Court, an offshoot of Floral street. And yes, I also really enjoy walking in London–even when I don’t have to. There’s so much to see at street level.

On one of my visits to London, I took the tube down to Wimbledon, and took a guided tour. The tour itself takes you onto centre court, which was amazing to see, and you get to see places off-limits to most visitors. The grounds are manicured and beautiful. While there, it’s totally worth going thru their Museum. A great history of tennis, and every Wimbledon video ever made is viewable there. Some interactive, fun stuff for kids, too. Awesome way to spend a half day away from tourist crowds.

Traditional Irish music sit in at the Faultering Fullback in Finsbury Park.

Cameron, What “small town” in Ohio are you from. I was born and have always lived in Columbus. Lydia PS thanks for the article making our first trip to London in just over a year.

We discovered that October is “London Restaurant Month.” Discount prices at some top restaurants in various parts of the city; we did a “restaurant crawl” and met a number of Londoners; and a great wine-tasting evening. Going back to London in 2020, in October of course. Will save your list!

I stumbled across a fascinating museum I have never seen written up in a guidebook: The Foundling Museum at 40 Brunswick Square near Coram’s Fields. It was an orphanage, founded in 1739 as a “Hospital for the Maintenance and Education of Exposed and Deserted Young Children.” (The museum guidebook states that “hospital meant a charitable institution, not medical facility.”) It is small, but well worth a trip. One particularly touching exhibit showed how destitute mothers would leave behind some token behind with their child whereby they could prove their relationship to the child if their circumstances improved and they were able to take the child back. The painter Williqam Hogarth and the composer George Frideric Handel donated works to help raise funds to support the institution.

Just returned from London for the first time. Stayed near the train stations, across from the British Library. Came for a taste of London while headed to Birmingham to watch tennis warm-ups for Wimbledon. I like the diversity of that area and the convenience for a first time visitor. Longingly looking forward to return visits, next year Wimbledon! Thank you for the suggestions.

See a show. London has great professional theatre! You don’t have to go to the “big” shows; the smaller theatres are more intimate and it feels like the actors are including you in the show. We saw a show at the Almeida in Islington and loved it! It was also outside the usual touristy areas, which gave you a nice feeling of seeing normal Londeners doing their thing. Also, on tea, I think high tea is a nice experience to have, at least once. We went to Claridge’s and yes, it was a production, but it was fun to watch people who really know how to do this well, and to people watch while you were experiencing your tea, scones and perfectly prepared sandwiches. When my son spilled something, the attentive staff was over in a flash and quickly fixed the problem in a couple minutes with no fuss. I was super impressed. One comment, if you go to a nice place, dress nicely – not too formal, but at least one level up from “American tourist.”

Decent place for food/tea is The Place to Eat, a cafeteria on the 5th floor of John Lewis on Oxford Street. Same for Peter Jones store in Sloane Square.

St Martins in the Field has a cafe in the basement–quite a place. Decent food for not horrible prices and right on Trafalgar Square. They also have regular concerts held up in the church. You can find the selection on their website.

The cafe in V&A is a visual delight. Another good stop for tea and a scone.

Some classical music locations include Wigmore Hall on Wigmore Street (a couple of roads over from Debenhams Oxford Street) and Cadogan Hall off Sloane Square. I’ve attended wonderful concerts at both locations.

We were in London for 2 weeks in late April. First day out we encountered the “Extinction Rebellion”. They were occupying about 4 sq. blocks near the Houses of Parliament the first day we were there. Very pleasant, entirely peaceful, but holding their ground. One day we saw a picture in the newspaper – they were having a die-in at the Natural History Museum and the whole first floor was covered with “dead” people. On the last day we were in London, They were just down at parliament square garden. I was very impressed with how polite both the police and the protesters were.

We were in London during Easter week. We went to the Holy Thursday service at St. Paul’s in London. Acoustics were terrible, sightlines were terrible, difficult to participate except for the lines we knew by heart. Couldn’t understand the sermon at all. On the plus side, they have a female bishop. On Easter Sunday we went to the Southwark Cathedral. Although we were in a side nave, we could see very well and the sound system was very good.

While in London on the RS family tour last month, I could not get into the CHURCHILL War Rooms with my grandson because of the long lines. Instead, we walked across Horse Guard Parade and spent an hour at The Household Cavalry Museum with about six other visitors. It was a great experience with a 14 year old boy. The excellent audio guides brought the history of these regiments, and of England in general, to life. The highlight, however, was the replica horse stall within the museum where my grandson and I donned horse guard uniforms (helmets, breastplates, the works) and photographed ourselves together holding the reins of a black stallion statue. It’s the best souvenir and memory of our trip to London.

Oh, I loved my Regent’s Canal experience. The last time I was in London I went to the Camden market on a Sunday afternoon, but it was so packed you could hardly move. I had to get out of there, so I started walking from the Camden Locks and went all the way to Maida Vale. I loved seeing the backs of houses, checking out the houseboats, stopping to watch little kids play soccer in Regent’s Park. Its one of my most favorite memories of London.

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Rick Steves: A cheap day out in London

It was the final day of a two-month trip to Europe. I was in London, and with all of my work behind me, I had the freedom to do whatever I wanted. So I decided to test my five free London audio tours in a citywide blitz spanning two neighborhoods, one church, and two museums. It ended up being a very entertaining and cheap day, proving that you don't have to spend a lot of money to have a fulfilling experience in this pricey city.

In the morning, I bought a one-day off-peak subway and bus pass (a great deal at about $10) and caught the Tube from my hotel in South Kensington to Westminster. Time management was key: My last stop, the British Library, closed at 6 p.m., but my off-peak transit pass wouldn't let me start until 9:30 a.m.

My walk commenced on Westminster Bridge, featuring fantastic views of the London Eye ferris wheel and Big Ben. As I strolled with earbuds in, the constant churn of London--tourists, professionals, big tour buses, taxis, and so on--was strangely more apparent. I noticed what a great percentage of people on the streets were also lost in their 'buds.

Whitehall--London's Pennsylvania Avenue--was as grand as ever. Stretching from Parliament Square to Trafalgar Square, Whitehall is lined with illustrious buildings and evocative monuments. Security was almost military, as guards with machine guns at the ready paced in front of the gate at #10 Downing Street, home of Britain's prime minister. Wandering past war memorials like the Cenotaph, honoring those who died in World Wars I and II, I noticed that the monuments of London have never looked so good, having been spiffed up for the Olympics.

I ended my walk at Trafalgar Square, London's central meeting point, highlighted by the world's tallest Corinthian column, topped with a statue of Admiral Horatio Nelson. From here, I strolled along the Strand. Once a high-class riverside promenade, back before the Thames River was tamed with retaining walls, this busy boulevard is now home to theaters and shops.

About 15 minutes later, I reached St. Clement Danes Church, the starting point for my City of London walk. The one-square-mile area known as The City once comprised the original walled town. These days, it's consumed by the financial district and Christopher Wren churches.

After the Great Fire of 1666 devastated this area, King Charles II turned to Wren to rebuild 51 churches in The City (not all survive). Of these, Wren's greatest creation was St. Paul's Cathedral. Even today, you can see the view that Wren intended--the majestic 365-foot-high dome of St. Paul's hovering above the hazy rooftops, surrounded by the thin spires of his lesser churches.

After touring St. Paul's, I ate lunch at the Counting House, an elegant bank building converted into a fancy pub and popular with neighborhood professionals. Though not the most penny-pinching place for a midday meal ($20 with beer), I confirmed my feeling that, while there are plenty of cheap-and-cheery modern eateries in London, this is a great spot for a memorable lunch.

From The City, I hopped into a cab to the British Museum, thinking this would save me time. I was wrong. Traffic was slow, and the meter reached 12 pounds (about $19 with one pound worth $1.60). Lesson learned: I could have gotten there faster with my transit pass.

The British Museum is hands-down my favorite museum in London. This chronicle of Western civilization houses Egyptian mummies, Assyrian lions, and a large hall featuring the best parts of the frieze that once ran around the exterior of Athens' Parthenon.

From the museum, I caught a bus to the British Library. Here, in just two rooms, are the literary treasures of Western civilization, including the Magna Carta, da Vinci's notebook, Shakespeare's First Folio, and Lewis Carroll's Alice's Adventures in Wonderland. Perhaps the best thing about the British Museum and the British Library--they're free (though donations are appreciated).

Sights closed, brain drained, I hopped the Tube and zipped back to South Kensington for dinner at the Anglesea Arms. This place is everything a British pub should be: musty paintings, old-timers, beautiful people backlit, dogs wearing Union Jack vests, a long line of tempting beer-tap handles, and flower boxes spilling color around picnic tables--perfect for warm summer evenings. For under $25, I got a delightful meal with beer--a great value when you consider the high cost of dining in London and the joy of immersing yourself in a neighborhood pub with quality food.

It was an exhilarating day--and not unreasonable for a first-timer to tackle. And it was affordable: The audio tours and museums were free, St. Paul's cost $20, transportation $25, and my meals $45. The total: about $90 for a very full day in London.

Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog on Facebook.

Make Doing Laundry During Your Hotel Stay Easier With These Tips From Rick Steves

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Imagine living in Europe for four months every year and only bringing a carry-on bag of your clothes. That sounds impossible, right? Not so, according to Rick Steves, the popular guidebook author, television host, and European travel expert. The self-proclaimed semi-minimalist is a fan of avoiding all the hassle of checking a bag at the airport, instead preferring to pack light with a carry-on and do his laundry in the hotel sink, he said in an interview with  Business Insider .

One of his top travel tips is to pack clothing made of fabrics that are durable yet lightweight and won't wrinkle easily. Bonus points if the item dries quickly, as in five minutes from wringing it over the sink to walking out the door. Steves has name-dropped Dash Hemp shorts , Patagonia pants , Meriwool base layers , and REI shirts as some of his favorites. Before he heads to Europe, he always tests the clothes in his sink at home to make sure they will hold up on the road. Don't forget to pack a travel laundry bag so you can keep your clothes separated.

Read more: 22 Gorgeous Islands For Vacationing That Won't Break The Bank, According To Booking Sites

How To Wash Your Clothes In A Hotel Room

Hoteliers aren't the biggest fans of guests washing their clothes in the hotel room, says Steves via his blog Rick Steves Europe . You can only imagine how many guests have left soaking wet towels and clothes hanging over the side of furniture or dripping onto the carpet. You might even see a sign that says "no washing your clothes in the sink" or a lack of drain stoppers to discourage you from banging out a sneaky little laundry session. In that case, says Steve, wash your clothes carefully and dry them discreetly.

Fill the sink with warm water and make some suds by emptying out the contents from the hotel shampoo bottle. Either pack  a drain stopper or line the sink with an empty plastic bag before you fill it with water. If you're in a pinch, you can always use a sock or the cap of a pill bottle to stop the water, Steves notes. Toss in your clothes, shuffle them around a bit, and let them soak. Like a pot of pasta, you'll want to stop by every so often and give them a little swirl. A good rule of thumb is to let your clothes soak for 10 minutes then drain the soapy water. Refill the sink with clean water to make sure you got all of your makeshift "detergent" out of the clothes.

How To Low-Key Dry Your Clothes While Traveling

In hot climates, you might enjoy wearing a shirt that's still a little wet, as it'll stave off the heat for a good 15 minutes or so, says Steves. But if you'd rather wait it out, you have a couple of options. Before you hang up any of your clothes to dry, wring them out as much as possible with your hands or by rolling them up inside one of the hotel towels, sushi-style. The last thing you want is little pools of water around your hotel room. Then, you can either drape them over the side of the bathtub or hang them in the closet next to your dry clothes. To hasten the process, invest in a couple of inflatable hangers , which will separate your newly washed clothes from your dry-and-ready ones, explains Steves.

Another option is packing a portable clothesline. You can find compact kits that take up less room than a water bottle, like the Sea to Summit Lite Line Camping and Travel Clothesline . However you decide to dry your clothes, avoid draping them outside over the balcony. Remember, you're trying to be discreet. If your clothes end up a bit pruney and you haven't already read Tan France's packing tips to avoid wrinkled clothes , see if your hotel has an iron to lend you or take a hot shower so the steam relaxes stubborn fabric. With Steves' clever tips, you can officially skip the laundromat and spend more time sightseeing — as it should be.

Read the original article on Islands .

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When To Travel To London Rick Steves

London, the capital of the United Kingdom, has been an irresistible travel destination for individuals, couples, and families since early civilization. It is home to timeless landmarks like the Tower of London, standing for centuries of royalty, culture, and history. The city continues to draw in millions of visitors today, offering an abundance of attractions, activities, and high-end restaurants. For those wanting to maximize their time and resources, traveling to London with Rick Steves is an excellent option .

rick steves is an accomplished travel writer, tour guide, and television host, whose tours to London have been praised by travelers around the world. With thousands of sites to see, and numerous activities to partake in, planning a trip to the city can be a daunting task. This is where Rick Steves comes in: his thoughtful, in-depth tour packages provide travelers an efficient way to experience all the city has to offer, without wasting time or money.

One of the best strategies for a successful London visit is to be judicious in your choices. Rick Steves’ tours begin with the city’s essential attractions—think Buckingham Palace and British Museum—to ensure you don’t miss out on important sites. By using his efficient, local expertise, travelers can see the city’s highlights without wasting time.

There are some key things to keep in mind when planning your visit. The best time to travel with Rick Steves to London is during the city’s low-season , typically between November and March. Tour prices are generally lower, and travelers benefit from fewer crowds and easier access to attractions. Spring and summer travel to London will provide bright, sunny days, but may come with higher prices and more visitors.

For couples and families visiting the city, accommodation options tend to be more affordable during the low-season . Despite being in the off-peak period, London offers a cornucopia of activities all year-round—many of which do not require park entry fees. Consider taking your leisurely stroll by the Thames River, or touring the local markets around Camden Town. As long as you carry a reliable map, and take care to follow safety guidelines, it is possible to explore London’s hidden gems.

Often, travelers are most concerned with their budget. Fortunately, London can be an incredibly affordable city, with a vast selection of activities suitable for any pocketbook . Although the cost of park access can add up, there are plenty of free sites to explore. From the Tate Modern to the National Gallery, visitors will never run out of free things to do in the city.

Finally, it is important to no that much of London’s charm lies beyond classic attractions. Immersing yourself in local culture is essential to fully experience London . The city is home to countless music concerts and theatre shows, enchanting parks, and charming pubs. There is something for everyone in London, and when traveling with Rick Steves, you can be sure to experience a vast selection of the city’s sights.

Unique Geography and Landmarks

London, known as the city of seven hills, offers a unique geography for travelers to explore. Visitors can explore the famous Thames River, as well as the rich green parks scattered throughout the city, including Hyde Park, Primrose Hill, and Greenwich. For a bird’s-eye view of London, visitors can take a ride on the iconic London Eye, or the cable car over the River Thames. Rick Steves’ itineraries also typically include big attractions like Tower of London, Westminster Abbey, and St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Other interesting sites to check out in the city include the British Museum, which houses artifacts from civilizations around the world, and the National Gallery, an impressive art collection from 13th to 19th century. Live performances should not be missed while in London; head over to the National Theatre, Royal Albert Hall, or the Globe Theatre for productions and concerts.

High-End Shopping and the City’s Outdoor Markets

Shopping is one of the biggest highlights for tourists visiting London, as tourists can find a variety of luxurious stores. Well-known boutiques like Harrods, Liberty London, and Selfridges boast some of the world’s highest-end fashion brands and homeware. Markets like Borough Market offer more affordable, but delicious and fresh foods from around the world. Other popular tourist markets include Greenwich market, Camden Market, and Spitalfields Market.

For those looking to shop for souvenirs, head over to Liberty London to find must-have items for your London trip. Although there are a number of shops located in Liberty, the truly unique experience is the store’s mezzanine level, which features a fine selection of designer goods, antiques, and homeware.

The Best of British Street Food

Food options in London abound, with many choosing to explore and taste flavors from diverse cultures. Rick Steves’ tours typically offer travelers a taste of the city’s signature dishes: fish and chips, bangers and mash, and a traditional roast dinner. Street food in London is an adventurous affair; some must-try dishes include jerk chicken, a variety of samosas, and curries. From hip gastro pubs to Michelin-starred eateries, visitors will find plenty of excellent restaurants to savor local flavors.

Those looking for something sweet can try popular treats such as jellied eels, traditional Cornish cream teas, and trifles. London’s pubs also offer a large selection of alcoholic beverages, ranging from ciders to lagers to the national favorite: ale.

Exploring London’s Neighbourhoods

London’s famous boroughs offer visitors the opportunity to experience a variety of culture and vibrancy. Rick Steves’ tour packages will provide an insight into the city’s bustling neighborhoods, like Camden, Marylebone, and Notting Hill. Here, visitors can discover a mix of shops, local cafes, and street artists—it is the perfect way to mingle with locals and experience London like a native. Additionally, travelers should consider walking tours, as a unique and interesting way to discover hidden nooks and alleys in the big city.

London’s proximity to other great cities in the United Kingdom, such as Bath, Oxford, and Canterbury, make it a great starting point for a larger itinerary. Visitors can also hop over to Paris, one of Europe’s most exotic and romantic cities, located just a few hours away by train.

Night Owl or Early Bird, London Has Something for Everyone

At night, London comes alive—this is the city’s time to shine. For those looking to sample the city’s ever-changing nightlife, head to Mayfair to explore chic bars, hip clubs, and independent galleries. Must-see sights include indoor attractions such as the Tate Modern and London Zoo, in addition to outdoor adventures like the Vauxhall Pleasure Gardens. Rick Steves’ tour packages also typically include recommendations for the best pubs for a ‘proper pint,’ and additional cultural experiences like theater performances.

For those looking to experience London before the sun rises, early bird activities include a ride on the London Eye, sampling some of the city’s most beloved brekkies, or sunrise strolls to King’s Cross.

Culture, Pubs and Parks of London

London is home to a unique culture that has been shaped by the royals, the city’s many migrants, and its embrace of the arts. From the world-famous Tate Modern to the recently opened Tate Lates, London has an abundant number of cultural sites to explore, many of which are free of charge. Locals love to explore the city’s many pubs for a classic British pint, as well as its vibrant parks for a game of cricket or a picnic.

To the delight of many, the city also offers a variety of festivals throughout the year. From music festivals like Wireless and Field Day to traditional celebrations such as Notting Hill Carnival, there are numerous ways to experience London’s lively spirit.

Getting Around Safely and Affordably

Getting around London can be an efficient and inexpensive affair. Most visitors will make use of the city’s public transportation system, such as the London Underground or the famous ‘red double-decker’ buses. Moreover, many attractions are within walking distance, so a good idea is to plan ahead and look up the must-sees near the attractions you plan to visit. While walking in large cities can be intimidating, visitors should also be aware of their surroundings: only carry what you need, and be on the lookout for pickpockets.

Finally, for those looking to explore further afield, rental bicycles are an easy option to get around the city. Since the famous ‘Boris Bikes’ (or Santander Cycles) initiative began in 2010, cyclists have taken to the streets of London, joining the ranks of iconic Londoners. Although London is a sprawling megalopolis, careful planning and executing the right strategies can help travelers make the most of their time—and vacation budget—when traveling with Rick Steves.

Margaret Hanson

Margaret R. Hanson is a journalist and writer from the United Kingdom. She has been writing about the UK for over a decade, covering topics such as politics, current affairs, and culture. Margaret is committed to producing work that is engaging, informative, and thought-provoking.

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753 German Views; Mudlarking the Thames Travel with Rick Steves

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A German journalist shares some timely thoughts on what his fellow citizens find appealing about America, as well as his insights into the intriguing differences between our two societies. Then a London "mudlarker" who searches the River Thames at low tide for buried objects describes how discarded items can connect us with life in the Victorian era, and even as far back as Roman times.

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