trek emonda bottom bracket replacement

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I won’t miss BB90, the worst bottom bracket standard

Is Trek all-in on T47?

Matthew Loveridge

Trek’s revamped Domane is a sleek and modern endurance bike and I’m confident it will be an excellent ride. Indeed, our own Rob Spedding was certainly very impressed by it at the launch.

Its clever bump-absorbing tech naturally grabs the headlines, but it’s also notable for its bottom bracket: where high-end Treks have used a proprietary standard called BB90 for more than a decade, the third-generation Domane makes use of the much more recent T47 threaded design , first introduced by Chris King in 2015.

T47 resembles a traditional BSA bottom bracket but goes a good deal bigger, offering better compatibility with the latest large-spindle cranks. BB90, on the other hand, is an awkward sorta-press-fit which relies on ultra-fine tolerances and is highly susceptible to the kind of creaks that can ruin a perfectly good ride.

I happen to think BB90 is one of the worst bottom bracket standards in existence and I’m delighted that Trek appears to be phasing it out. Here's why.

• The 2020 Trek Domane gets more aero, more adjustable and goes disc-only
• Trek Domane SLR 9.9 Project One first ride review

Is Trek actually abandoning BB90?

The reality is that we don’t know, but it seems highly likely. Trek’s UK representative couldn’t give a definitive answer either way.

The Domane isn’t the first Trek to get T47 — that honour was bestowed on the 2020 Crockett cyclocross bike .

The Domane is one of Trek’s most important bikes, however, so the decision to ditch BB90 on this model feels far more significant.

For the time being, the upper tiers of the Emonda and Madone ranges still have BB90, so we’ll be watching keenly when they next receive an update.

What is BB90 anyway?

Often confused with the ‘Shimano standard’ BB86/92 (which a number of Trek’s bikes do use), BB90 (and its MTB counterpart BB95) is a proprietary Trek standard wherein cartridge bearings sit directly in moulded carbon seats in the bottom bracket shell. You can read our complete guide to bottom brackets here .

BB90 bearing placement is the same as that of BB86/92 (and it accepts the same cranks), but the bearing cups effectively form part of the frame rather than the bottom bracket.

With BB86/92 (and the larger but conceptually similar PF30 design), the bottom bracket cups are disposable, but if the bearing seats of a BB90 frame suffer damage or wear, that’s a much bigger problem.

Park Tool describes BB90 bearings as “a mild press fit” — they typically don’t require as much force to insert as a conventional press-fit and, in some frames, the bearings will actually slip in by hand.

If they get too loose, creaking is all but inevitable, and that’s why some maintenance guides endorse the use of Loctite-style compounds to prevent bearing movement.

A few years ago, Trek released a ‘V2’ bottom bracket bearing as a solution for frames where the bearing fit had gone a bit baggy.

These are oversized cartridge bearings that measure 0.1mm more in diameter than the standard part; it’s a simple solution, but one that, in my opinion, is a product of an inherently flawed design.

Is T47 genuinely better?

BB90 is a system that looks elegant on paper, but one that relies on very tight tolerances and liable to problems if the bearing seats suffer from wear.

T47 should, at least in principle, be easier to live with. It’s essentially a super-sized version of the familiar BSA threaded bottom bracket and with that comes easy user-serviceability and a frame-cup interface that isn’t inherently liable to creaking.

The larger bore diameter means broader crank compatibility (standard BSA is best suited to thinner 24mm spindles as space is limited).

Having threads does, of course, mean that T47 necessitates a metal bottom bracket shell. For carbon frames, bike makers need to use a bonded-in metal insert, which inevitably adds weight.

Bikes have been made this way for years, but it is a potential weak point if designers try to shave off too much weight, or if production quality control isn’t up to scratch. De-bonded bottom bracket shells aren’t exactly common, but it can happen.

Nevertheless, I’m all for the switch to T47. I have personal experience with BB90, having spent a summer working in a now-defunct Trek dealer, and I honestly despised the design.

If it were up to me we’d all stick with a Hollowtech II-style design and 24mm spindles for the sake of simplicity, but I understand why bike makers would want the versatility offered by T47.

Will you be buying a Trek with T47? Do you care about your bottom bracket standard? Let us know your thoughts in the comments.

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Trek Emonda SL BB?

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I've posted in the Trek forum with no response. Since Trek is having a sale, with some very attractive pricing, I am considering an Emonda SL and would like to hear about BB problems in the Emonda SL frame, if any? Thanks in advance for your help.  

BB90 is a press fit system that uses the bearings you'd normally see in Shimano or SRAM, or Campy bottom bracket cups. It works w/ 24mm axles, so no BB/PF30 cranks. I've been working on them and have owned them for years. No problems if they're installed correctly. If they're not, and the shell is slightly loose there is always the 'V2' bearing available that is .1mm oversize. I'd love it if manufacturers went back to threaded shells, but the Trek BB90 works fine in my opinion.  

I just wish I could get more people to respond.  

A guy I work with had his BB90 shell un-bond from the frame. He also ate bearings for lunch. I'd forget Trek.  

I owned a Scott with the same system and echo everything CX said. If you want Shimano or Sram cranks it's fine and lighter than BSA. The only downside is you can't use most 30mm axle cranks and the ones you can use (Lightning on my bike) have tiny bearings that wear out quickly. This isn't too much of a concern though since if your priority is performance the Sram Red GXP crank is pretty light and stiff.  

ANY crank you get from ANY 'major' manufacturer will more than stiff enough for your needs. Weight...? You can make that decision.  

Anyone else?  

I have a Madone and my friend has an emonda. No troubles with ours. He hasn't changed his out since he has had it, that i know of. Mine i changed twice. Easy to do and no troubles with all three sets  

Why did you change it?  

I have the Madone with BB90 and using Shimano crank. No problem, no creaking. I also have another bike with BB90 and Shimano crank, and no issues here too. Of all the various pressfit bottom bracket systems out there, BB90 is probably one of the better ones, better then the BB30, PF30, Specialized pressfit. Having said that, I have 4 other bikes with threaded bb, and I'd say threaded BSA bb is still king when it comes to minimizing creaking noise. Recently I did have one of these bikes develop a creaking noise bb after 4 years of hard use in the mountains (it's my climbing bike), so I put in some new Shimano Ultegra bottom bracket, cheap and easy to replace, creaking noise gone. It don't get much easier  

My current Domane frame has 12,000 miles on it and the BB90 has never been serviced - still smooth with no creaking. Previous Domane frame had the BB DS bearing replaced around 4000 miles due to it getting a bit rough, not creaking.  

So, I know this is an old thread but just to ensure the feedback goes in the right place on this huge WW web....Just for the record: My 2016 Emonda SL6 with approx. 4500 miles (i'm 6' x 180lbs) has developed a problem and I think Trek has agreed to warranty it, although I don't have a new frame in hand yet. The problem is a small crack growing around the drive side of the BB. Also the bearings were already in need of replacement, which is what led me to look close enough to find the crack. Non drive bearing was indexing and the drive side bearing is loose fitting now. Replacement bearings were $50.  

Attachments

GeojeRider said: My 2016 Emonda SL6 with approx. 4500 miles (i'm 6' x 180lbs) has developed a problem and I think Trek has agreed to warranty it, although I don't have a new frame in hand yet. The problem is a small crack growing around the drive side of the BB. Click to expand...

Since we're updating I'll update my two year old post where I said very few BBs exist that fit a 30mm crank (BB386 size) in a Trek BB90 shell and my experience with Lightning's was not great. Since then Raceface and others have come out with BBs that do this and while still having small bearings the durability of my Raceface has been good. I've been running a Next SL G4 crankset in a Scott MTB with BB86 for a year now and it still feels like new.  

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T47 Bottom Brackets Guide – 24mm, 30mm (& Unique T47 EBB)

• by Johnson Li

I take a close look at the T47 standard including a variety of models brands can choose from.

2021 is the year the cycling world got serious about the T47 bottom bracket standard.

Specialized released their  S-Works Tarmac SL7 2021  ; Trek, their  Emonda SLR  and  SL . Trek will also use T47 more widely across their road range in the future.

Introduced as ‘yet another standard’ in 2015, T47 looks like becoming an increasingly important bottom bracket type in the years ahead.

What is a T47 Bottom Bracket? Can You Cut T47 from PF30? T47 BB Survey—what are the types? T47 Bottom Bracket Installation Techniques & Issues T47 24mm Spindle T47 Eccentric Bottom Bracket (Unique Design)

WHAT IS A T47 BOTTOM BRACKET?

A T47 BB is a PF30 BB shell into which threads have been cut.

A PF30 bottom bracket shell’s internal diameter is 46mm. Cutting threads into it gives you an official specification of M47 x 1.0mm.

The drive-side cup is a left-hand thread; the non-drive side is a right-hand thread—an English-threaded setup in other words.

Threaded Bottom Brackets are Rock-Solid

I have argued elsewhere that threaded bottom brackets (mainly BSA/English at 34.8mm diameter BB shell ) are the best bottom brackets.

The extended helical ridge that defines the thread of a screw or bolt is one of the most important advances in the history of mechanics.

A threaded screw or bolt stays where it is put until you remove it or where extreme stress strips away the ridges.

Stripping thread is extremely unlikely when you are installing a nut onto a bolt, but more likely when installing a bottom bracket’s broader surfaces (shell and BB unit) into the BB shell, where due care is not taken.

As long as simple steps are taken to avoid cross threading,T47’s turning the largest press fit bottom bracket available to date into a threaded model may turn out to be a defining moment in bottom bracket design.

Nightmare of Proliferating Standards

Press fit bottom bracket design copies integrated headset design where bearings are inserted directly into the frame.

The original BB30 was a direct translation of this concept from the head tube into the bottom bracket shell.

When problems with BB30 emerged, a solution was to place the bearings in cups and press these into the shell, just as cups were pressed into head tubes prior to the integrated headset revolution.

Thus we’ve ended up with 41, 42, and 46mm bottom bracket shells, an evolution which has taken us from the original BSA 34.8mm ID BB shell to a 46mm shell.

If anyone had set out to design a new standard prior to this evolution taking place, it’s doubtful that 46mm would have been the size selected. The ideal diameter would have had to be larger—but probably not this large.

Boutique frame builders, notably those using titanium and steel (see the extended section on installation below into a steel frame) were early adopters of T47 BBs although the bigger brands are slowly releasing models using T47.

And despite the limited adoption of T47 aluminum shells into carbon frames to date, bonding alloy shells into carbon frames is a mature process, so expect to see an uptick in offerings from carbon frame makers in the near future.

CAN YOU CUT THREADS into a 46mm SHELL to CREATE a T47 BB?

A lot of T47 commentary claims you can “simply” or “easily” cut threads into a PF30 shell into which you can then install a T47 BB.

The problem here is that carrying out the procedure will cancel out your warranty in most cases.

Altering the BB shell in this way is a significant alteration of the frame. Few if any manufacturers would continue to honor warranty under those conditions.

The idea of cutting threads usually comes about in the context of fixing ill-fitting press fit bottom brackets and the oft-reported creaking problem.

Commentators lay the blame on sloppy manufacturing tolerances. If manufacturers would produce bottom brackets with the standardized precision the bring to headset manufacturing, there would be no problem.

However, you can’t equate headsets in head tubes to bottom brackets in bottom bracket shells. An integrated headset’s sealed bearing drops into place on top and snugs into position at the fork crown—hardly precise.

In contrast, a press fit bottom bracket by definition must be pressed into the shell. Tolerances are tight, although not tight enough for the critics.

The force exerted on the bottom bracket/frame interface during pedaling is extreme, and it must endure stresses that exceed the strain exerted on headsets many times over.

Threaded bottom brackets were a non-problem solved with the introduction of press fit. T47 arguably improves on press fit …. by eliminating press fit.

And this return of threaded BBs via T47 improves on the BSA standard by giving us larger bearings and a beefier connection amongst the shell and the chain stays, seat tube, and down tube.

The larger surface area at this junction also cancels out a possible weight gain as it allows tubing with thinner walls, opening up a new frontier of frame design possibilities.

T47 BOTTOM BRACKET SURVEY

In this section I cover several T47 Bottom Bracket types.

FIRST Components makes designs for both traditional 24mm spindles and 30mm spindle cranks, for either internal or external installation.

Each model comes with variously sized spacers in order to accommodate a wider range of cranks.

The 24mm crank range pictured is divided into the BBs with aluminum sleeves at the top, and plastic sleeves below.

Plastic sleeves can be drilled which enables internal cables to be more easily routed through the BB shell.

Internal vs External (Outboard) Installation

T47 bottom bracket bearings are either installed into the the bottom bracket shell or located externally as “outboard” bearings (the unit on the right).

Which is better comes down to personal preference.

The advent of integrated cranks, 24mm spindles, and bearings mounted in externally located cups allowed the use of larger bearings in the BB and thus greater bearing longevity. The spindle was also stiffer due to the hollow design’s larger diameter.

The only upgrade to make for a 34.8 (“BSA”) BB shell was originally from a solid-spindle cartridge to an integrated spindle with external bearings which provided a noticeable performance boost.

But the 46mm T47 internal diameter gives you an extra 11.2mm of diameter as well as the larger externally mounted bearing.

A cartridge BB sealed bearing’s outer diameter is 30mm; an outboard bearing’s OD is 40mm; a T47 internal BB sealed bearing’s OD is 42mm giving a 2mm advantage over the traditional outboard bearing.

Thus, although there’s no clear advantage to installing the external unit compared with the internal unit, you have the option nonetheless.

The aluminum sleeve on these internal cups screws into the drive side.

If weight is an issue, you could do away with the sleeve, although losing the protection against the entry of water and grit is not a good trade off for the minimal weight saving.

T47 BOTTOM BRACKET INSTALLATION

The great news is you no longer need one of the often complicated press-fit toolkits to seat the bearing cups in the BB shell.

Beware Cross Threading

Provided your frame maker’s bottom bracket shell is precisely machined to spec, you screw the T47 BB cups into the shell, then tighten with the correctly fitting wrench.

The danger with threaded bottom brackets is cross-threading the cup into the shell. You need to seat the bearing cup exactly into the shell’s threads before screwing the cup very far into the shell.

Even if a threaded bottom bracket cup appears to be perfectly aligned with the BB shell and turns with just a little resistance, it could still be cross-threaded.

T47 bottom brackets, much larger than their threaded cartridge cousins and noticeably shift onto an angle, out of square to the BB shell.

One technique that works well to seat the BB cup in the BB shell making sure the threads are aligned on the drive side is to turn the cup to the left, first of all, then to the right, against the thread.

You will feel, as well as hear, a ‘click’ or a ‘clunk’ as the cup threads align with the BB shell threads.

It often takes several turns to the left and right before you feel the alignment; then you proceed to turn the cup smoothly to the left all the way into the shell.

With the non-drive side turn the cup to the right first, then the left.

Once you feel that the alignment is right, complete the installation.

These are the wrenches FIRST Components supplies with T47 bottom brackets, and any of the non-standard designs in our range for that matter.

What About Torque?

For the internal T47 BB we use the tool on the far right; the tool (Y30) to the left fits the external BB cups which I’ll look at below.

The flange offers 2mm of surface which means you must hold the tool square to it to gain maximum leverage.

The recommended torque is standard for threaded bottom brackets: a minimum of 35 Nm, maximum of 45 Nm.

How do you know you’ve reached tolerance? A person of average strength exerting full force will reach a torque of 35+ Nm.

You will never over-tighten with this tool. Using a glove or soft cloth on the handle in conjunction with a good pull, the cup will be tight enough.

An example of the plastic sleeve available in place of the aluminum sleeve. Plastic is lighter if weight really is a concern.

24mm External T47 BB

The external or outboard bearing version has two cups and an alloy sleeve.

The sleeve screws into the drive side. Or you could opt to just install the the cups.

Unlike the internal T47 BB’s 1mm for the tool to slot into, a 5mm surface is available on the external T47 cup.

Fully assembled with the 30mm crank fitted.

T47 24mm ADAPTER

The option exists to add 24mm adapters to a 30mm spindle unit. Each adapter has a 30mm outer diameter, and 24mm inner diameter.

Applying even pressure on alternate sides of an adapter maneuvers the adapting piece into the 30mm ID cup.

The fit is tight, but not too tight. To remove you need a vice to hold the cup, then lightly tap the inside face from the opposite side evenly the way round.

An alloy sleeve either screws into, or is permanently attached to the drive-side cup.

An important part of the sleeve-to-cup connection on the non-drive side is the rubber seal which fits into the end-groove. Without the seal, the connection is too loose and would rattle in use.

The seals are durable, but can be easily stretched into position should one perish.

T47 ECCENTRIC BOTTOM BRACKET

An eccentric bottom bracket enables you to raise and lower the spindle height, and thus the crank and pedal height.

Raising and lowering in this way also changes the chain tension.

So an EBB can be used for either purpose.

T47’s large size makes it perfect for a wide range of niche bikes such as tandems.

This design mimics FIRST Components’ popular BSA EBB .

An off-center core housing the sealed bearings rotates within the main, hexagonally shaped, shell.

Here it’s rotated almost to the top.

The technique is to rotate both sides together as one so both ends of the spindle remain parallel. If not, one side gets ahead of the other the result being neither will turn.

Rotated almost to the bottom.

Tightening the 2mm Allen bolts equidistant on three of the hexagon’s six vertices, prevents the inner housing from rotating.

The large holes on the hexagon’s alternate vertices are for the tool used to tighten the cups into the BB shell—the curved end of the tool hooks into them providing leverage against the flattened edges.

PARTING THOUGHTS

In 2015 when T47 Bottom Brackets were first launched as ‘yet another standard’, plenty of people dismissed the return of threaded bottom brackets in this form.

Five years later with a cycling public fed up with the shortcomings of press fit BBs, the new standard is set to take off, simplifying and rationalizing bottom bracket design, making life easier for cyclists, brands, and manufacturers.

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BB90 installation on a new Emonda SLR frame

Moderator: robbosmans

Post by Ride2500 » Tue Jul 23, 2019 8:29 am --> by Ride2500 on Tue Jul 23, 2019 8:29 am

by » Tue Jul 23, 2019 8:29 am --> by Weenie on Tue Jul 23, 2019 8:29 am

Post by nickf » Tue Jul 23, 2019 9:14 am --> by nickf on Tue Jul 23, 2019 9:14 am

Post by alcatraz » Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:34 am --> by alcatraz on Tue Jul 23, 2019 10:34 am

Post by Calnago » Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:46 pm --> by Calnago on Tue Jul 23, 2019 1:46 pm

Post by Ride2500 » Wed Jul 24, 2019 4:02 am --> by Ride2500 on Wed Jul 24, 2019 4:02 am

Post by wheelbuilder » Wed Jul 24, 2019 4:49 am --> by wheelbuilder on Wed Jul 24, 2019 4:49 am

Post by Methodical » Fri Aug 09, 2019 5:23 pm --> by Methodical on Fri Aug 09, 2019 5:23 pm

Post by TobinHatesYou » Fri Aug 09, 2019 6:28 pm --> by TobinHatesYou on Fri Aug 09, 2019 6:28 pm

Methodical wrote: ↑ Fri Aug 09, 2019 5:23 pm I went with the Ninja BB90 bottom bracket kit. I like it because you screw the 2 housing together with the installed bearings. Smooth and quiet. If you go with the traditional install, just grease the frame where the bearings sit and press them in straight and flush until they can go no further and don't try to over install them or you could damage the frame. That's it, nothing special with the install.

Post by SilentDrone » Fri Aug 09, 2019 7:31 pm --> by SilentDrone on Fri Aug 09, 2019 7:31 pm

TobinHatesYou wrote: Methodical wrote: ↑ Fri Aug 09, 2019 5:23 pm I went with the Ninja BB90 bottom bracket kit. I like it because you screw the 2 housing together with the installed bearings. Smooth and quiet. If you go with the traditional install, just grease the frame where the bearings sit and press them in straight and flush until they can go no further and don't try to over install them or you could damage the frame. That's it, nothing special with the install.

Calnago wrote: That’s a pretty good video overall. I’ve described that exact process before but your trek will be new so just use a good amount of grease in the shell. Trek’s BB90 is a slip fit, not a “press”, or “interference” fit. The bearings can often be pushed in by hand, but use a proper press, unless Campy, to ensure the bearings get fully seated in their bores. I think the vast majority of BB90 issues that occur are because of installation issues and the fact that, if the bearings aren’t fully seated, AND the right amount of preload isn’t used, then the whole thing is loose and the bearings can just fret away at the shell, eventually causing it to go out of round and creak. This is particularly true for Shimano installs where with BB90 you end up with essentially two slipfit surfaces, the inner bearing race on the spindle and the outer bearing race in the BB90 shell. Using Loctite, either 609 if the fit is still pretty good, or loctite 638 (much thicker) if the fit is really loose should be a last resort and certainly not needed when new. Also, you won’t hear any of that “creaking” when pressing in new greased bearings. That lack of noise by itself does not mean it’s too loose on its own, which is something you might take away from that video. You’re only going to hear that “cracking” sound when pressing bearings in if you’re using the retaining compound on a squeaky clean bearing bore. And definitely use the primer as it won’t set up properly on carbon (inactive) without it. Install it right, with grease, and you should be just fine. After you ride it, check to make sure the crank is spinning freely but that there is zero lateral play. It’s quite easy to not get the preload right with a Shimano setup on BB90. Just because the little clip drops into its slot on the crank doesn’t mean it’s as far as it needs to go. I always tighten it enough so that I can feel the crank start to bind a bit when you turn it, then I know I’m there, and back it off a teensy bit. But that kit that BB Infinite is selling looks to be a good product for those that have a problematic worn BB90 install. I didn’t know they made one. I guess it comes with a couple bearings and a small amount of retaining compound, which would be good for a home user since even a small container of the retaining compound can be quite expensive and way more than you’ll ever need.

Post by TobinHatesYou » Fri Aug 09, 2019 7:43 pm --> by TobinHatesYou on Fri Aug 09, 2019 7:43 pm

Post by Methodical » Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:38 pm --> by Methodical on Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:38 pm

TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑ Fri Aug 09, 2019 6:28 pm Methodical wrote: ↑ Fri Aug 09, 2019 5:23 pm I went with the Ninja BB90 bottom bracket kit. I like it because you screw the 2 housing together with the installed bearings. Smooth and quiet. If you go with the traditional install, just grease the frame where the bearings sit and press them in straight and flush until they can go no further and don't try to over install them or you could damage the frame. That's it, nothing special with the install.

Post by TobinHatesYou » Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:22 pm --> by TobinHatesYou on Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:22 pm

Methodical wrote: ↑ Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:38 pm I totally disagree with you. Please explain to me why I am stuck with buying their bearings. Also, I disagree with the durability concern. Has their been any reported failures or are you just making this up? I'm using the bearings and have no issues what so ever, from experience and not hearsay.

Post by hambini » Sat Aug 10, 2019 11:51 am --> by hambini on Sat Aug 10, 2019 11:51 am

TobinHatesYou wrote: ↑ Fri Aug 09, 2019 9:22 pm Methodical wrote: ↑ Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:38 pm I totally disagree with you. Please explain to me why I am stuck with buying their bearings. Also, I disagree with the durability concern. Has their been any reported failures or are you just making this up? I'm using the bearings and have no issues what so ever, from experience and not hearsay.

Post by Methodical » Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:40 pm --> by Methodical on Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:40 pm

by » Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:40 pm --> by Weenie on Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:40 pm

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The 7 Best Bottom Brackets for All Kinds of Riders

Creaky bottom bracket? Swap it out with one of these user and critic favorites.

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. How we test gear.

The Best Bottom Brackets

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Shimano sm-bbr60 bottom bracket.

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Chris king chris king threadfit 24mm bottom bracket.

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Wheels manufacturing press fit 30 with angular contact bearings.

For Mountain Bike Durability

Hope threaded bottom bracket.

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Acer racing bottom bracket with ceramic bearings.

For Your Italian-Threaded Shell

Shimano dura-ace bb-r9100 bottom bracket.

Best Lightweight Bottom Bracket

Sram dub english bottom bracket, what to consider.

Plenty of factors can make finding a bottom bracket a confusing endeavor. Here’s what you need to know when shopping for bottom brackets.

Know Your Crankset and Frame Type

Your bottom bracket (BB) is an unseen component that connects your crank to your bicycle frame, providing the ability to power the drivetrain. It’s inserted into your bicycle frame’s bottom bracket shell, and typically includes bearings that help your crank’s spindle rotate. Because every frame and crankset is different, replacing a BB requires some research to determine if a particular bottom bracket is right for your bicycle.

It’s important to know your bottom bracket shell and spindle widths when purchasing a new BB. If you’re unsure if a bottom bracket will fit, refer to your manufacturer's website as a resource—most list which BBs are compatible with your frame. Bottom brackets will also sometimes come packaged with spacers to help get an exact fit, while adapters can also help.

You should also be mindful that some manufacturers require brand-specific tools in order to install a bottom bracket yourself, so if you plan on doing your own maintenance, ensure you have all of the necessary components. You may have to order a special tool from a manufacturer’s website for installation.

Threaded bottom brackets are the most common for modern bikes. These are bottom brackets where threads are cut into the frame’s bottom bracket shell, and bearing cups are then threaded into the shell. BSA/English bottom brackets, which have counterclockwise threading, are most often seen today. The less-common Italian threading, which is threaded clockwise, can also be purchased, however. Threaded BBs have the widest range of compatibility with cranksets.

Press-fit bottom brackets are directly placed into a frame’s bottom bracket shell and are often made with more affordable parts. These usually require special tools to be installed. Press-fit BBs have a reputation for making creaky noises over a shorter amount of time than threaded models, but that may not always be the case. It should also be noted that modern threaded bottom brackets , while advertised as such, are often bearings that have been press-fit into cups.

How We Evaluated

We researched and consulted several lists from professional critics, in addition to various Reddit and message board threads, for the most recommended and top-rated bottom brackets that money can buy. We then took a look through hundreds of user reviews from retailers like Amazon and Backcountry and compared ratings, read through complaints, and studied what makes a solid bottom bracket. The results of this list are a combination of the most raving user and professional reviews, and the top user ratings across retailers.

For more great ways to upgrade your bike, check out our picks for the best bike fenders , handlebars , and bike stems .

• For Shell Widths: 68mm and 70mm
• Weight: 100 grams

The BBR60 is a solid bottom bracket replacement known to be as reliable as any other Shimano item money can buy.

It’s a lightweight component that features smooth, small bearings, is backed by a 3-year warranty, and claims to reduce rotational friction by 50 percent. The steel bearings are also equipped with Shimano’s reliable sealing technologies, which prevent the elements from damaging the component.

Keep in mind that installing this bottom bracket will require a new Shimano Hollowtech II tool due to its smaller threaded cups. The BBR60, however, includes a plastic tool adapter that makes for compatible installation with older Hollowtech II tools. Reviewers on Amazon say this TL-FC25 adapter works just fine.

• For Shell Widths: 68mm, 73mm, 83mm, and 100mm (with conversion kit)

While it’s not the most affordable, the ThreadFit 24 Bottom Bracket is definitely one of the flashiest and best on the market.

American manufacturer Chris King is known for producing long-lasting bicycle components, and its BB is simple to service and likely to outlast cheaper options that wear out over time. This is all due to its anodized components, which provide some corrosion resistance, as well as an eye-catching shiny finish.

Oh, and just in case you’re worried about that price: The Threadfit also comes with a lifetime warranty. Keep in mind, however, that this bottom bracket will require a fit kit to fit your specific swindle and crank.

• For Shell Widths: 61mm to 73mm, with spacers
• Weight: 153 grams

This press-fit BB from Wheels Manufacturing is built for heavy-duty riding and is compatible with most 24mm cranksets. It features angular contact bearings, which have a higher speed rating than radial bearings. This press-fit BB also has two aluminum cups that stabilize and increase bearing life.

It also solves annoying creaking, according to reviewers. It's sealed with silicone, which protects the BB from any grime and dirt you’ll experience on the road, resulting in less maintenance.

• For Shell Widths: 68mm, 73mm, 83mm, 100mm and 120mm
• Weight: 102 grams

British manufacturer Hope is known for producing reliable BBs that can withstand harsh weather, which makes this model a perfect option for those who need something durable to pair with their mountain bike. This threaded BB has stainless steel bearings that are double sealed via O-rings to ward away the elements, while a free-running labyrinth seal will protect bearings externally.

This piece also has direct contact with the crankset’s axle, which means the need for spacers is out the window. Just note that Hope requires a specific tool for installation, depending on your spindle width.

• For Shell Widths: 68mm or 73mm
• Weight: 82 grams

Bottom brackets with ceramic bearings are tougher and require less energy to use than their steel counterparts. This BB from ACER Racing is one of the more affordable options out there for buying ceramic. It provides a more efficient transfer of power, reducing drag dramatically, and also comes in a striking anodized red. This is great for those who have Shimano and Sram cranksets and are looking to try ceramic at a lower cost than what Chris King offers.

• For Shell Widths: 70mm
• Weight: 108 grams

If you’ve got an old Italian bicycle, you’re going to need to replace its BB with one that’s Italian-threaded. This option from Shimano will do the job. This bottom bracket is durable and serviceable, with updated seals that will give you a quieter ride and reduce drag. Reviewers say that this bottom bracket is a very easy installation and provides a creak-free ride, while others love it for its affordable price.

• For Shell Widths: 68mm and 73mm
• Weight: 22 grams

This BB from Sram features the brand’s proprietary Gutter Seal Technology, which is guaranteed to improve sealing against the elements while dramatically reducing seal drag and friction. It comes packaged with extra spacers just in case you need some, plus it’s super lightweight compared to other bottom brackets on this list. An Amazon favorite, plenty of reviewers say it’s very easy to install on their frame, the quality is excellent, and it’s surprisingly durable.

Kevin Cortez is an editor for Runner's World, Bicycling, and Popular Mechanics covering reviews. A culture and product journalist for over ten years, he’s an expert in men’s style, technology, gaming, coffee, e-bikes, hiking, gear, and all things outdoors. He most recently worked as the Style Editor for Reviewed, a top product recommendation site owned by USA TODAY. He also helped with the launch of WSJ's Buy Side commerce vertical, and has covered the music and podcast industries for Mass Appeal, Genius, Vulture, Leafly, Input, and The A.V. Club. Equally passionate about leisure as he is his penmanship, Kevin dedicates his spare time to graphic novels, birding, making cold brew, and taking long, meandering walks.

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You have a Shimano crankset. What bottom bracket standard is your bike?

Determine which of our Shimano road bottom brackets is the most compatible with your bike by using this selection guide. BBInfinite’s modules are compatible with all Shimano HollowTech cranksets on the market. Engineered with a one-piece design, these BBs fix bicycle creaking while providing cyclists with consistent shifting and drivetrain performance. Additionally, these road bike bottom brackets feature dual polymer bearing shields to prevent dirt and debris from getting into the precision bearings. Our Shimano bottom brackets are fully compatible with crank-based power meters.

Now that you have selected a Shimano road crank set for your bike, or you intend to install on your bike, you may select the appropriate road bottom bracket standard of your bike to jump directly to the Shimano bottom bracket you desire:

For ALL Shimano HollowTech II road crank sets, double or triple, standard or compact, select the compatible frame bottom bracket standard button above.

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All-new Trek Emonda ALR takes lightweight frame tech to alloy models

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When Trek announced their Emonda carbon road bike line , they backed up their “world’s lightest” claims with an impressive frame and fork and an even more impressive 10.25lb (4.6kg) complete bike. Now, they’re adding an alloy Emonda ALR option that’s also lightweight yet far more affordable.

To earn the Emonda badge, the frame uses their top-level 300-series Alpha Aluminum that’s been hydroformed into size specific tubes, then welded together using a no-see technique that produces smooth joints that use less material to save weight.

The process is called Invisible Weld Technology, which they say produces stronger, stiffer welds despite using less material. Video, pics and more details below…

Trek told us the unpainted frame is 1050g (56), and a painted fork is 358g w/240mm steerer.

Like the ultralight Emonda carbon models, the ALR uses their H2 race geometry, E2 tapered headtube (standard 1-1/8″ to 1-1/2″) and wide Pressfit BB 86.5, meaning this bike is made to go fast. Other frame details include a braze-on front derailleur mount (no need to add a clamp if you’re getting the frameset) and external cable routing.

We’ve requested a more technical description of the welding process (update as we get it), but the frame is only part of the story. The complete bikes come equipped with built-in extras like the a Blendr stem with integrated light/computer mount, and it has Duotrap S compatibility (their ANT+/Bluetooth 4.0 speed/cadence sensor, sold separately for about $60).

You also get a complete group, so the Emonda ALR 6 with Ultregra gets a full Ultegra group from chain to brakes to cassette and everything else. There are no mis-matched parts or down spec’d bits to cut costs. A full carbon fiber tapered fork completes the package.

The Emonda ALR will initially come in two builds, the “6” with full Ultegra, Bontrager Race tubeless ready wheels with R2 tires, and a Bontrager cockpit with alloy short reach/drop bar and carbon seatpost for $2,249.99. Our local Trek Bike Store says complete bike weight is claimed at 17.25lb (7.82kg).

The Emonda ALR 5 drops down to a full Shimano 105 group with non-series Bontrager tubeless ready alloy wheels, R1 tires and a full alloy Bontrager cockpit for $1,759.99. Claimed weight is 18.77lb (8.51kg), colors will be the gloss black/hi-viz yellow and blue shown here, plus a racing red coming soon.

The frameset shares the same paint scheme as the “6” and comes with an FSA sealed cartridge bearing headset for $989.99. The frames have a lifetime warranty carrying a 275lb rider weight limit.

Just for fun, here’s the companion lifestyle video.

All three models shown here are available now and should hit stores soon. Our sources tell us there’ll also be an Emonda ALR 5 with Tiagra, an ALR 8 with Dura-Ace mechanical and ALR 9 with Dura-Ace Di2 coming soon. That last model suggests they’ll have an electronic-only frame, too, since these first models only have external cable routing. At the very top, in terms of light weight anyway, will be the ALR 10 with a full SRAM Red group.

TrekBikes.com

Tyler Benedict is the Founder of Bikerumor.com , where he’s been writing about the latest bikes, components, and cycling technology for almost two decades. Prior to that, Tyler launched and built multiple sports nutrition brands and consumer goods companies, mostly as an excuse to travel and ride in new places.

Based in North Carolina, Tyler also loves the Vanlife & family adventure travel and is always on the lookout for the next shiny new part and off-grid adventure.

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looks like a rebadged Allez

The invisible welding looks a lot like what pretty much every other company calls smooth welding. And has been using for years. You weld the tube normally then go back over it without filler material and “reweld” it. The process smooths out the weld and helps it wet out. REVOLUTIONARY TREK!!!

Interesting that they are using hydroformed tubes but didn’t choose the aero tube shapes of the Madone design.

@Robert W – my sources say the Madone is on the way out. & if the story is about weight vs. areo it would make sense to mimick the emonda shapes. Also, the 2 series aluminum frames are already Madone-esqe.

I always find it funny that companies state how they’ve extensively optimized tube shapes for their flagship carbon fiber bikes, but then seemingly can successfully apply those shapes to materials with very different properties. There is a little marketing lie in their somewhere.

Anyway. Glad to see these Al bikes. CF has been getting too pricey fort me.

I like how they quote an unpainted frame weight, then only offer it in a painted variety. But lets also make sure we pair that unpainted weight with a painted fork weight.

Looks legit. Seeing they are coming out of the Giant factory why not put on the overdrive 2 fork and stem and really take it next level?

Aluminum, how quaint.

Why not sell them unpainted if they weight them unpainted? JBikes if I read you right what your saying is the shapes have far mo9re to do with design than engineering.all thes tube shapes are probaly coming from kitchen appliance design firm and they bs riders who rarely go over 20mph that aero is worth buying a new bike for

That Bontrager cycling kit is pretty damn nice. “Understated” as the hipsters like to say.

How about US made aluminum, with giant tubes, some internal routing, and some really funky paint jobs. Oh wait…

Hasn”t specialized already been doing this for like 3 years now? And better welded joints? Revolutionary-nothing is more like it, just another slightly modified copy frame.

Roy – no I was just commenting on the fact it’s stated how non aero tube shapes are optimized for carbon fiber for whatever properties (stiffness, weight, ride) but then a vastly different material can achieve the same with the same tube shapes? I’m sure they vary material thickness and such, but given the vast difference in CF and Al, I’d think tube shapes would vary more between the two materials, unless the CF and Al frames ride completely different.

Jesus, tough crowd. Lightweight aluminum, full component groups and small price tags… Sounds good to me.

Full Ultegra! Well… except the wheels. Of which, the Bontrager Race spec is a few notches below Ultegra…

y’all are haters. you can pick on the marketing and on random bits and pieces but in the end this is the bike you’re going to start seeing at all the local crits and races. So they have weird marketing, worry about the bike and what it can do for you.

Aluminum is the new carbon.

Yeah a bunch of haters here, Go buy a Specialized because they are not owned by the big man, Oh wait, Specialized is own by a conglomerate, and Trek is family owned. Seems like most people don’t understand the definition of “the man” Don’t hate on them just because you don’t like it that more people ride Trek than any other brand in the US.

@Durianrider, you’re killing me! Lol

When you think about it, it’s a bike people actually look for: Workhorse, and the no-nonsense but clean aesthetic.

Considering the Propel SLR might not come stateside, as well as the update TCR SLR before it, it’s nice to have another potential alloy option on the market that isn’t an Allez or CAAD.

I really like where Trek is going with their new paint schemes. Very minimal branding and no stupid racing stripes and decals. Keep it premium!

Jbikes: I understand why you’re asking about why two frames with different materials have the same tube shapes, but in fact they probably should have the same shapes.

In the bike industry (and many others), it’s common practice to design using isotropic material properties (e.g., with aluminum) for a first pass. The resulting stiffness (quantified through FEA) ensures you’re getting the most sectional modulus you can out of a given tube shape. Only then do you go back and design a laminate schedule with anisotropic materials (e.g., carbon fiber).

This allows the designer to clearly separate the modulus (stiffness) due to tube shape and the modulus due to the laminate schedule. That way, each can be optimized as a discrete step.

Except for a few corner cases, optimal frame tube shape is material-independent. Surprising but true!

Looks like a great bike at a good price. I love nice aluminum race bikes. But why no H1 geometry option? It irks me that companies (not just Trek) spec the really race oriented stuff at the high-end of the price scale. I know a short head tube doesn’t work for everyone but why not give us the option? What does the size of your wallet have to do with your flexibility?

I’m wondering if some of the frames are anodized, so unpainted weight would be pretty relevant.

JasonK – thanks! Great info. Never really thought of it that way but it makes sense.

I like the emonda and the CrossRip frame for my commuter. I would seriously consider if I was in the market and carbon was not an option.

Man that’s a light frame. Nice to see they are using full groupset specs.

I wonder if the welding is a form of aluminium brazing using a lower melting temperature brazing rod. I think this is what Shimano do with the external reinforcing tabs on the aluminium rims. This is supposed to be lower strength than welding but coming up with some newer technology is not beyond Trek’s resources. Or maybe they have come up with a way to modify the pulse action of a TIG welder with a certain filler wire application. Either way, the old double pass method for aluminium is old hat now.

Most companies claim unpainted frame weights. Use this general guide: If a company says “…painted frame weight is…” then it’s including paint. If they don’t specifically say painted then you can guarantee it’s an unpainted frame weight.

The only reason I wouldn’t buy one of these is the head tube is too tall…

I applaud Trek for coming out with a ‘light’ and ‘inexpensive’ aluminum frameset but I’m still not sold on the H2 geometry.

Sincerely, Worlds longest head tube.

I like the option of a high end aluminum frame as well….but this one misses the mark for me because trek refuses to make any bike with its “racer” H1 geometry that doesn’t cost at least 4,500 for a frameset. If they only would make H1 options of their emonda sl frame or this new all I’d buy one in a second. Trek already makes a million bike models….why not better fit options? Ever since they did away with the 6 series madone the options for the budget conscious racer have gone to zero. Bleh. And more seatmast length options trek!

Nearly the same weight as a Cannondale frame that was first manufactured out of the same material about 6 years ago

I think this will make a GREAT race frame.

Certainly beats trying to replace a carbon frame someone broke for you in that ‘last corner of the criterium’ crash.

If I see one more I’m-so-flexible-I-can-stick-my-head-up-my-ass comment about the lack of H1 geometry, I might give up trolling comments on bike rumor all together. Seriously, 5 years at a Trek dealer and we sold maybe 3 H1 bikes (all as special order). We ordered dozens more project 1 bikes in the ‘normal’ H2. Working now at a Cervelo dealer I have very few people balk at the head tube height, and MOST are running a positive angle on the stem anyways. At 6’3″ I run 14cm of bar drop. I have had zero issue getting a proper fit on stock bikes, including Trek. Currently on the newly updated (i.e. market norm) stack of the 2015 Cervelo S5 I still have 15mm of spacers under my stem. If H2 geo just doesn’t do it for you, grab a Cannonade with a low profile headset cap and go ride. They are making a bike for the largest market, obviously the budget racers this bike is designed for are too busy riding their bikes to complain on Bike Rumor…..

Looks like a great bike for the money and your avg rider. Nothing wrong with that. Kudos too for specing a complete group build, awesome!

Waiting for my ALR 5 to arrive!! Last bike I bought was in 1986, a Myata One Ten. Hopefully this one will last another 29 years.

uhhh… the allez actually looks good

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/road/allez/allez-comp-race

the only thing actually missing from these frames are some colorway options like the tarmacs

i had a domane and the headtube was too tall.

i might get one of these. its pretty affordable all things considered.

There doesn’t seem too much, if anything at all, to complain about here. The Emonda ALR frame MSRP is right in line with a CAAD10 frame MSRP ($10 cheaper actually). It looks good, and it’s certainly not a heavyweight bike. If it rides as good as it looks, it will be a great deal.

@MikeC – Are you kidding? I haven’t seen anyone refer to a full groupset as including the wheel since like 1999. Some people are just desperate to find something to bitch about. The Bontrager Race wheels are great. They only weigh 200g more than the Ultegras, and unlike every Shimano wheel, they are specced completely with off-the-shelf parts that are easily purchasable in any bike shop.

@Adam – Yes, because Cannondale were the first company with an aluminum racing bike. You forget the Trek, via Klein, were making awesome lightweight aluminum race bikes when Cannondale was still welding together soda cans.

@H1 Lovers – You’re all on crack. A quarter of the Trek pros don’t even ride the H1, and I promise you that you are not that fast. I can also tick off a list of local heroes, Cat 1 and PRO dudes, who get by just fine on the H2, usually preferring it to the H1.

@Psi – And the Trek is clearly much better specced than the Cannondale, with an Ultegra crank and Bontrager Race wheels, not to mention a cockpit that won’t require immediate replacement.

Wait to you see the next gen cannondale frame before you jump on this..

I am happy this exists. Buyers beware if you crash this thing it’s probably going to dent up like tinfoil.

@badbikemechanic – What makes you say that? There is a generation of high end aluminum out there that holds up just fine to the rigors of daily life. I personally have an aluminum Allez that I regularly leave locked up outside of bars, the grocery store, as well as race, and it hasn’t even scratched the anodized finish yet.

As always, opinions abound….and everyone is “right.” The H1 vs. H2 debate is clearly a hotter topic than I thought. What it boils down to though is “choice.”

Trek offers the option, meaning there are people that prefer it. I rode a 60 cm H1 Madone 6 series last year, and absolutely loved it. Sadly it was a team bike and I had to give it back at the end of the year. In looking for a replacement I want a bike with similar geometry, but don’t want to spend 4,500 to have the OPTION to get the geometry I like. The head tube on the H1 is 18 cm…compared with 21 cm on the H2. That is a LARGE difference. I don’t think anyone is right or wrong to ride whatever geometry they like. All I’m saying is that for me…the H1 geometry is perfect, and I don’t need to run a -17 stem to get my preferred position of the bike. Being a pro, being fast or slow, is irrelevant. I would just like to see the option available at a reasonable price point.

These bikes are epic. And yes, they blow the competition out of the water.

About time Trek offers something for the Joe-Racers out there. Yes, carbon is super nice but you guess what: so is aluminum. I have a locally-made Aluminum bike and it rides *amazing*. So did my old Caad7 and I bet Specialized’s aluminum bike is also fantastic. We need more people in the sport, and to do that we need a much lower entry-level bar. if for $2,200 you get a nice Al Trek with good geometry, good wheels (i own the bontis tlr and they’re indestructible and readily serviceable), good parts and cockpit that are either race-ready or hammer-ready, then god bless Trek. For the record i own a cannondale six and it’s a phenomenal bike. but my aluminum rig is my favorite. way to go, Trek – kudos indeed.

Arguing that “some pros ride H2, therefore nobody needs H1” is well, just a poor excuse for an argument. An H1 aluminum Emonda would be a hit, and I would purchase one as soon as it were available. I’ve owned and ridden both H1/H2 models, and greatly prefer the H1. As an aside, direct mount breaks on this beast would be the icing on the cake. Think about it Trek.

This bike compared with the new caad 12 is nothing …

I’ve got a current model year Allez smartweld frame built up with full 105 and tubeless Shimano wheels. I certainly didn’t do it for $1760 retail, but then some parts on my bike (bars, saddle, tires) are from a very much higher trim level. I’ve also got all the accessories (cages, tools, &c) in my price, and I was unable to use the economy of scale a manufacturer can.

ANYWAY. The ride quality of my Allez is nothing short of amazing considering. It is *as smooth* as my steel 3-speed with 38mm tires over brick roads. I have no problems riding the Allez a hundred miles, though I run out of water. The Allez smartweld is making me completely re-think aluminum as a frame material, especially for amateur racer types.

These Treks seem to DIRECTLY compete with the Allez smartweld introduced last year, which is great, since it engenders competitive designs. When you get an Allez Comp (with 105), you pay less, but you miss out on the excellent 5800 brakes and crankset, and get bog standard training wheels. Moving up to an Allez Expert (with Ultegra), gets you a full groupset with carbon SL-K crank and ‘Fulcrum’ wheels at a competitive price.

I’d love to ride these Treks back to back with my Allez.

I am happy to see Trek jump into the “high end” aluminum market. I have owned & loved several iterations of CAAD’s. I have also read good things about Specialized redesigned Allez frames. I am now hearing of a redesigned CAAD12(?) to be released later this Summer…(anyone else hearing any details?) I would have liked to have seen a disc version from Trek… (Spec as well.) I believe that road disc offerings from every manufacturer will increase exponentially once the pro’s are riding them. I wanted my next road bike purchase to have discs so that I can look for second set of wheels that will be future proof…(thru-axles coming next?) I had my eye this year’s CAAD10 Rival disc, hoping the boys at Cannondale offer an Ultegra disc spec on the CAAD12 later this year. 🙂

Just ordered my alr 6 today! I work at a trek dealer, and I have to say H2 is usually great for 99% of our customers, and they usually have the stem flipped up. For the 1% of people that actually want that huge bar drop, you can always size down and make it look super pro with a longer stem! Nothing wrong with that!

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NCM Moscow Bottom Bracket Bearing Failure

• Thread starter RJC
• Start date Jun 14, 2020

Active Member

• Jun 14, 2020

Hi, done 40 miles total on new bike and the crank bearings have failed.Removed bracket and found a third of the bearings where missing, must have been done during manufacture as there is nowhere the bearings can escape externally.Have let Leon Cycles know but not holding out much hope for a reply. Although the bike uses shimano gearing the bottom Bracket is made by NECO. Have ordered a Shimano replacement.  

• Jun 15, 2020

Fitted Shimano replacement,works perfectly,nice smooth gear changes ,no chain rub. Now waitng for a reply from Leon Cycles..........!  

Well-Known Member

• Jul 13, 2020

It's been about a month. Have you heard anything from Leon?  

yes. I had to get a quote from a local bike shop, which NCM have agreed to pay. Just waiting for payment to clear in account.  

RJC said: yes. I had to get a quote from a local bike shop, which NCM have agreed to pay. Just waiting for payment to clear in account. Click to expand...

• Jul 25, 2020

Do you have the part number for the bottom bracket please as I need one  

BBUN26B22 - item model no' on Amazon. B0036WZITM - ASIN no' on Amazon. Shimano part no' is BB-UN26.  

Thanks for that RJC, what is the cable that looks like it goes into the bottom bracket? I'm assuming changing the bottom bracket is nothing to do with the electrics? Sorry for all the questions  

Hi, there is a Cadence sensor on the lefthand crank, this is used to sense when you start to pedal. Once you have removed the crank arm you can carefully use a couple of screwdrivers and gently lever from behind to remove it. . You dont need to remove the electrical conector, just leave the sensor hanging. When fitting back onto the Shimano BB it was a bit tighter to fit back on. I used a socket and gently tapped on with a hammer. Make sure you clean the threads on the frame once you have removed the old BB, then put new grease on them. What was wrong with the Bottom Bracket ?  

When I first rode the bike the pedal came off the bottom bracket, the square arm must of got a little chewed, Leon sent me a new crank set, the pedal won't go all the way on though  

Did they not send a new Bottom Bracket also ? The Bottom Bracket is a square tapered design. When you put the crank pedal arm on, it may not push on all the way to start with. As you do the bolt up it will push the arm onto it tightly. Torque setting for bolt in owners manual, try not to over tighten.  

No they didn't, I'm slowly losing patience with them  

If the bearings feel ok and the bracket spindle doesn't look worn I suspect the crank bolts werent fully tightened from new. Hopefully the crank arms were worn only, unless the threads in the spindle ends are damaged as well. I got a quote from a local bike shop to fit the new BB and also supplied Leon Cycles with the cost of the new part They agreed to pay for it under warranty. They refunded my Paypal Account. Put it all in an E-mail to them and they should sort it for you. I also re-checked everything else was tight on the bike.  

• Aug 3, 2020

RJC said: BBUN26B22 - item model no' on Amazon. B0036WZITM - ASIN no' on Amazon. Shimano part no' is BB-UN26. Click to expand...

• Aug 4, 2020

Shimano BB-UN26 Bottom Bracket - Black, 68-122 mm Hope this helps  

• Aug 14, 2020

RJC said: If the bearings feel ok and the bracket spindle doesn't look worn I suspect the crank bolts werent fully tightened from new. Hopefully the crank arms were worn only, unless the threads in the spindle ends are damaged as well. I got a quote from a local bike shop to fit the new BB and also supplied Leon Cycles with the cost of the new part They agreed to pay for it under warranty. They refunded my Paypal Account. Put it all in an E-mail to them and they should sort it for you. I also re-checked everything else was tight on the bike. Click to expand...

Tony54 said: Hi, Hi, I've got a creaky/cranky noise coming from the cranks. The bike had only done a few hundred miles. I am going to swap the pedals to make sure it's not a pedal bearing and then contact ncm. Im in UK so will contact ncm germany, did you email Germany and if so do you have any he email or telephone number. ThanksTony Click to expand...

Hi, I've found the email for Germany and informed them of the problem. I'm very pleased with the bike so hope it can be resolved quickly as I'm sure it will.Tony  

Tony54 said: Hi, I've found the email for Germany and informed them of the problem. I'm very pleased with the bike so hope it can be resolved quickly as I'm sure it will.Tony Click to expand...

RJC said: If you have to change the Bottom Bracket this is the one I used. Shimano BB-UN26 Bottom Bracket - Black, 68-122 mm from Amazon. Fitted ok and a better make than original part. I sent them an invoice for parts and labor which a local bike shop quoted and they refunded me thru Paypal. You could also fit the part yourself If you have the tools to save time. You should get a reply between 5-7 days hopefully........... Click to expand...

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