hinterland travel afghanistan

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International Edition

Heartbreak as 'legendary' Brighouse tour guide dies on 'last ever trip'

'Thrill-seeker' Geoff Hann specialised in high-risk holidays to the world's most unforgiving places including Syria, Iraq and Afghanistan but had no fear

• 05:00, 25 APR 2022
• Updated 06:14, 25 APR 2022

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Geoff Hann, one of the world's best-known tour guides to the most extreme places on earth - Afghanistan, Iraq and Syria - has died in a Baghdad hospital.

The 85-year-old from Brighouse was on a tour with his company Hinterland Travel that included Baghdad, Mosul and the ancient cities of Mesopotamia when he suffered a massive stroke. His partner, Tina Townsend-Greaves, set up a gofundme page to get him home and more than £10,000 was raised but sadly he died before it could be activated.

She wrote: "Geoff Hann has been a traveller all his life. He has taken travellers with him all over the lesser explored places in the world for 50 years, Afghanistan, Iraq, Iran, Syria... the list goes on. He has been blown up by the Taliban, shot at by the Syrians and was caught up in the Iranian Revolution.

READ MORE: Britain's oldest landlord reopens his tiny pub after more than two years

"But he always brought everyone home safely. At the age of 85 he was probably the world's oldest tour leader, one last hurrah to his beloved Iraq before retirement. At the end of a wonderful trip he suffered a stroke and is now lying in hospital in Baghdad, unable to speak, miles from home and alone. We need to bring him home safely.

"Please give whatever you can, a great explorer, a great traveller and a great man deserves to end his journey at home."

Sadly it was not to be and she wrote later: "I am very sorry to tell you all that I have just been told that Geoff has died. I don't have any further details until I can speak to the Foreign Office tomorrow."

And today she told ExaminerLive: "Geoff died on Thursday, a death as bizarre as the life he lived. But sad for those of us who loved him." He lived an extraordinary life and was utterly unafraid of all the things that would make most holidaymakers run a mile - possible roadside bombs, Kalashnikov-toting bandits and Taliban attacks.

Since he set it up in the 1970s he's taken tourists to danger zones including Syria, Pakistan and Iraq. And he rarely ran into serious trouble – until 2016 when driving through the province of Herat in August, his group were ambushed by Taliban armed with rocket-propelled grenades and machine guns.

Five of the 12 holidaymakers were severely wounded. Only good luck meant none of the group – eight Brits, three Americans and one German – were killed.

They were able to dive behind a roadside wall as their vehicle went up in flames, before a nearby army and police vehicle came to their rescue.

But Geoff had short shrift for anyone who complained, telling the Mirror : "It annoys me. How many people go on holiday and get shot by the Taliban ? They can dine out on that story for years!"

He told an ExaminerLive reporter in 2012: "Geoff, who has organised adventure holidays for 35 years, said he operated in a niche market, but there was no shortage of holidaymakers wanting something different.

"We take s mall groups of 10-15 people and we take people of all ages, from their late 20s to their 70s," he said.

"We stay away from the likes of Kandahar and Helmand and go into the North and central regions and sample the real Afghanistan that you don’t see on the TV."

Calder Valley MP Craig Whittaker told ExaminerLive he was sorry to hear about the death of one of his constituents.

He said: "Sadly he has died. He was an adventurer who loved it and enjoyed it and wanted others to experience the same."

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Foreign tourists attacked in western Afghanistan

Governor of Herat province says eight Britons, three Americans and one German among group ambushed by Taliban

A group of western tourists on a sightseeing adventure tour of Afghanistan have been ambushed by Taliban gunmen, Afghan officials said on Thursday, with at least six people wounded.

The foreigners were travelling in the Chesht-e-Sharif district in the western province of Herat with an Afghan army escort when militants opened fire on the convoy. The group were heading for Herat city, the country’s ancient cultural centre, close to the Iranian border.

A spokesman for Herat’s governor said the tourists included eight Britons, three US citizens and one German. Two of the British citizens were believed to be from Scotland.

A military spokesman said the attack left at least five foreign tourists and their Afghan driver wounded. Sources with knowledge of the local insurgency said the Taliban’s shadow governor in Chesht-e Sharif, Haji Abdurrahman, was assumed to be behind it.

The attack reportedly ended at around 1.30pm local time. About two hours later, the group arrived at a medical clinic in Obeh district, west of the ambush site, according to a source at the clinic. Reportedly, none of the injuries was serious.

According to sources in Kabul, the party had gone to Afghanistan with Hinterland Travel, a small British tour operator based in Brighouse, West Yorkshire, run by veteran tour guide Geoff Hann.

The company specialises in adventure tours to war-torn countries such as Iraq and Afghanistan. It has defended travelling to Afghanistan despite UK Foreign Office advice to avoid it. Promotional material describes the country as at the “cutting edge of adventure tourism, which in itself can offer benefits and progress”.

The firm’s latest 21-day tour, advertised on its website, began on 26 July. It says tourists arrive in the capital Kabul and then travel by road to the Bamiyan valley, home of giant Buddha statues blown up by the Taliban in 2001.

From Bamiyan, the route continues through the centre of the country and its scenic lakes to Herat, with the journey described as “tough but beautiful”.

The website says: “The country is desperately poor. Frankly it needs any help that we or anyone can provide … The main roads had become diabolical but are now being totally reconstructed. The Afghan people are friendly and cheerfully welcoming, although wary until we can prove that we are travellers and not something else. Ancient and recent history are scattered everywhere, from Buddhist remains to burnt-out tanks.”

No one from the firm was available for comment. A Foreign Office spokeswoman said: “We are providing assistance to British nationals involved in the attack in Herat and are coordinating closely with local authorities.”

At least two UK-based companies, in addition to Hinterland Travel, offer tours to Afghanistan.

James Willcox, founder of Untamed Borders, said his agency rarely travels by road in Afghanistan, and only in low-profile cars and dressed in local clothes. They have not travelled the road between Bamiyan and Herat since 2009 “due to security concerns in the section between Chaghcharan and Herat,” Willcox said. That is the stretch of road where Thursday’s ambush occurred.

Wild Frontiers, another tour company, said they, too, only fly through the central provinces. They haven’t arranged any tours to Afghanistan this year, partly due to deteriorating security and partly due to a lack of client interest. Usually, the company takes 30-40 tourists a year to Afghanistan, said its head of tour groups, Marc Leaderman.

“This year will be the first in many years where we don’t take a single client to Afghanistan,” Leaderman said. “We do feel the security situation is going in the wrong direction.” Even if there had been customer interest, “I probably wouldn’t have been happy to run a trip,” he said.

He added: “I’m devastated to hear this news. If it is true, I’m sure it’s something that will have far-reaching consequences.”

The Taliban officially claimed responsibility for the attack on Thursday afternoon. It comes as militants intensify their annual summer offensive after a brief lull during the holy fasting month of Ramadan, which ended in early July.

A handful of tourists visited Taliban-run Afghanistan in the years leading up to the 2001 US-led invasion. They were the first to do so after two decades of war and Soviet occupation. Hinterland Travel has said that it checked out possible routes in 2002, and has been running tours successfully ever since.

Understandably, given continuing violence, there has been no revival of the 1970s hippy trail, which saw thousands of students and Peace Corps volunteers descend on Kabul’s Chicken Street en route to India. Moderate Taliban figures suggested bringing back the trail in 2000 . A year later, hardline elements destroyed the fourth-century Buddhas, the country’s most celebrated attraction.

A handful of tourists still go to Bamiyan and its mountains, which host an annual Afghan ski challenge. Tour agencies also take groups to the far-flung Wakhan Corridor, the Panjshir Valley and Herat.

However, tourism has been in decline. According to Bamiyan’s information and culture department, the number of tourists visiting the Band-e Amir national park halved between 2014 and 2015 , to 144 foreign and roughly 2,000 Afghan visitors. Most of the foreigners visiting the park are assumed to be expats living in Kabul.

Highways in Afghanistan passing through insurgency-prone areas have become exceedingly dangerous, with the Taliban and other armed groups frequently kidnapping or killing travellers.

• Afghanistan
• South and central Asia

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• How to travel to Afghanistan during Taliban rule (2024)

By Joan Torres 75 Comments Last updated on May 23, 2024

Wanna travel to Taliban Afghanistan with Against the Compass?

We have one tour scheduled next September, an overland adventure through the Central Highlands with Minaret of Jam

September 5th to 14th, 2024

The first time I traveled in Afghanistan was in June 2021, just when the US Army had begun to withdraw from the country, and shortly before the Taliban took it over.

With the new change of government, I decided to go back to see what it was like to travel in Afghanistan under new Taliban rule.

From a traveling perspective, a lot has changed in this country.

After visiting Afghanistan 5 times, traveling all across the country, during the 4 seasons, from Kandahar to the Wakhan Corridor, here’s the most updated and complete travel guide to Afghanistan, containing everything you need to know relating to safety, visas, permits, budget, top experiences, cultural facts, and more.

Check: 50 Photos that will show you the beauty of Afghanistan

In this Afghanistan travel blog you will find:

Table of Contents

• Can you travel there?
• Introduction
• Travel insurance
• Travel permits
• Dealing with Taliban
• Female Travel
• Independent Travel
• Best time to visit
• Top 5 Experiences
• Money and budget
• Getting around
• More Information

our recommended travel insurance for Afghanistan

IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in Afghanistan.

Can you travel to Afghanistan now?

Yes, today, anyone can go to Afghanistan.

In fact, Afghanistan has always been open for tourism, and visas have always been issued at the respective embassies.

When the Taliban came into power, only 2 or 3 embassies could issue you a tourist visa but today, the number of embassies increased significantly – more on that on the visa section .

Moreover, either because they want to whitewash their image, or because they need foreign currency, the new Taliban Government is welcoming foreign tourists, the only barrier being the ethical issues that such a trip may trigger on certain travelers.

Introduction: What’s going on in Afghanistan?

More than 40 years of conflict have turned Afghanistan into an actual war-torn country, starting in 1979, when tribal people rebelled against the Communist party, starting a war between the Soviet Union and the Mujahideen , which lasted until 1989.

The Soviets were defeated but then, Mujahideen warlords began to fight each other over power, impoverishing the country even more.

Fed up with all that warlordism and disappointed that Islamic law had not been enforced after the communists were kicked out, a former Mujahid founded a movement named Taliban in the city of Kandahar .

That man was Mullah Omar, the historical leader of the Taliban.

The Taliban quickly took over the whole Kandahar province and, by 1996, they controlled 90% of Afghanistan’s territory, including Kabul, ruling until 2001.

Then, the American Invasion came, initiating a war that ended with their withdrawal in 2021, an event that Taliban used to take over the country.

Afghanistan under Taliban rule is the situation you will witness if you travel today in Afghanistan.

🪪 How to get a visa for Taliban Afghanistan

Before the Taliban took over in 2021, you could get an Afghanistan visa at pretty much any embassy around the world but things have changed now, since there’s only a handful of embassies and consulates that can issue you with a valid visa:

The easiest embassies where to get an Afghan visa are:

• Dubai (United Arab Emirates)
• Islamabad ( Pakistan )
• Peshawar (Pakistan)
• Doha (Qatar)

Furthermore, travel reports suggest that the following embassies are also issuing tourist visas for Afghanistan but I don’t have any personal experience with it – reports are welcome in the comments section :

• Istanbul (Turkey)
• Tehran ( Iran )
• Abu Dhabi ( United Arab Emirates )
• Bishkek ( Kyrgyzstan )

And last, some embassies in Europe have also started issuing them in:

The easiest is to get your visa in your home country but if there is no active embassy in the country you reside, Dubai and Islamabad are the most convenient places, for the simple reason that you find there are daily flight connections with Kabul.

Visa on arrival (VOA) for Afghanistan

There is a way to get a VOA for Afghanistan and that is by crossing from Tajikistan at the Shir Khan border – this is the border that is closer to the Afghan city of Kunduz.

The visa on arrival has a cost of 150 USD and the whole paperwork takes a few hours.

From Kunduz, you can easily get to Mazar. This border however, is the most convenient one for those traveling to the Wakhan Corridor. In fact, this is the route we’ll take on our upcoming Wakhan Corridor Expedition .

Travel requirements for the Afghanistan visa

I’ve personally got my Afghan visa in Islamabad, Dubai and Madrid and generally speaking, these are always their requirements:

• 1-2 passport photos
• 1 passport copy
• 1 Pakistan visa copy (if you apply in Islamabad)
• 80-130 US dollars, depending on the urgency. Americans can pay up to 210 USD
• Letter of Invitation (LOI) + Company license of your sponsor – Optional

Read: How to travel to Pakistan

My personal experience applying for the Afghanistan visa

Islamabad: Showed up without an appointment. A visa costs 80 USD, but you can also pay an additional 50 USD to get your visa in less than 24 hours. In my case, I went to the embassy at 3:30pm and got it the next day around 2pm. If I had applied early in the morning, I could have got it on the same day in the afternoon. No LOI was needed.

Madrid: Showed up without an appointment. Paid €200 and got my visa in 1 hour. The non-urgent service takes 1 week and costs €120. You may mail them your docs as well. No LOI was needed.

Dubai: Showed up without an appointment. Paid 130 USD and got my visa in 3 hours. Travel reports suggest that sometimes, they do ask for the LOI.

The other embassies and consulates have similar rules, but visa fees may vary. Your reports on this matter are welcome in the comments section.

How long is the visa valid for?

The visa is single entry and it’s valid for 30 days within a 90-day period.

Which nationalities can go to Afghanistan?

All nationalities are eligible to apply for an Afghan visa at any of the previously shared embassies.

Can Americans travel to Afghanistan?

Yes, US citizens can also travel to Afghanistan without any sort of restriction.

Do you need a Letter of Invitation for your Afghan visa application?

Upon applying for your Afghan visa, they might ask who will be your sponsor in Afghanistan, but you can say that you don’t need one, that you are traveling alone, and it should be fine.

This rule applies in Islamabad and sometimes in Dubai as well, but in Dubai, some travel reports suggest that this hasn’t always been the case.

At the end of the day, in Afghanistan, rules aren’t written and more often than not, they depend on the respective authority’s mood.

🚑 Travel Insurance for Afghanistan

Most travel insurance companies don’t cover for travel in Afghanistan.

The one which does, however, is IATI Insurance .

• They have loads of different plans for all types of travelers
• Covers senior citizens too
• Readers of this blog can get an exclusive 5% discount .

⚠️ Is it safe to travel in Afghanistan with the Taliban?

From a safety perspective, there hasn’t been a better time to visit Afghanistan.

Let me explain why.

Visiting Afghanistan before the Taliban took over in 2021

Up to summer 2021, any trip to Afghanistan was potentially dangerous.

The country was ruled by a “democratic’” Government, but they were in an ongoing war with the Taliban, who controlled a significant part of Afghanistan.

Traveling in the Government-controlled areas was relatively OK but suicide bombings occurred every other day and violent crime in cities like Kabul were kind of a big deal.

On the other hand, Taliban-controlled areas were physically possible to visit but the chance of getting kidnapped was extremely high.

In summary, visiting Afghanistan was possible but you had to travel with an extra degree of caution and accept a certain amount of risk.

Read: Is Pakistan safe?

Traveling in Afghanistan after the Taliban took over in 2021

Despite the humanitarian and economic crisis, the war is finally over in Afghanistan and the new rulers are trying to build a peaceful and legitimate Government – or pretending to at least – aiming at being recognized by the entire international community.

Taliban are not carrying out terrorist attacks any longer, kidnappings are a thing from the past, and violent crime seems to have disappeared from Kabul.

Is this thanks to the Taliban?

Well, that’s what they want you to believe but not really, it’s just that they are the ones in charge now, they aren’t fighting anymore and just wish to be a normal country, while attracting foreign investment.

Afghanistan is very safe today, one can really feel it because all the provinces are fully open and also because the Afghans you will meet along the way will keep repeating all the time, that Afghanistan is finally safe .

Warning: What about IS Khorasan?

You might find it hard to believe that the Islamic State is still alive and that they have become the number 1 enemy of the Taliban, claiming that Taliban are too soft and mere puppets of the West.

This branch of IS in Central Asia is called IS Khorasan and the Taliban are currently in a violent counterinsurgency struggle against them.

IS Khorasan has carried out several terrorist attacks under Taliban rule but it’s all been at a small scale and, as I mentioned several times, the likelihood of being caught in the middle of a suicide bombing is extremely low.

Nonetheless, remember that this isn’t Thailand, and that traveling in Afghanistan never comes without risk.

Permits for traveling in Afghanistan

For traveling around Afghanistan, you will need special permission from the Taliban.

If you are traveling on an organized tour, you don’t need to worry about anything because your local fixer will take care of that but independent travelers will have to get it for themselves which, in our experience, isn’t an easy thing to do.

By the way, remember that Against the Compass has several Afghanistan expeditions scheduled all year long.

Need to know about your permit for traveling around Afghanistan

Your travel permit must mention all the provinces you will visit in Afghanistan.

However, it should only mention those provinces you are planning to stay in, not those you are just passing through.

For example, if you want to visit Bamyan from Kabul, you will inevitably pass through Wardak province, but you don’t necessarily need a permit for that, because you’ll just be driving through.

You will have to pay 1000 AFN for each province you visit, which is around 12 USD.

This permit is absolutely needed, and many Taliban will ask for it at checkpoints.

Note: They will usually make you pay 1000 AFN per province you visit but sometimes, depending on the traveler, they don’t charge it. From what I heard, they usually don’t charge anything to female travelers.

How to get your travel permit for Afghanistan, a step-by-step guide

Warning: The following steps look pretty straightforward but, in our experience, rules keep changing and everyone seemed to give us different information. Getting inside the different offices and ministries was also pretty challenging, since the Taliban guarding the gates don’t speak a single word of English, and they never seemed to understand the purpose of our visit.

Step 1 – Go to the Ministry of Culture & Information

Location is here .

Here, you’ll need to get 2 signatures from 2 different authorities, which will take around 2 hours.

Once you get your 2 signatures, they will give you an address and a phone number.

In our case, each of the 2 authorities gave us completely different addresses, phone numbers and contact persons but only one of them picked up the phone.

Step 2 – Go to the Tourism Directory, aka Afghan Tour

This building was difficult to find, since there wasn’t any sign but only concrete walls around it.

Once you get in the building, you’ll be interviewed by a person, who will probably ask why you aren’t traveling with a guide or a translator.

For this conversation, it’s important to wear local clothes, be extremely polite and pretend that you know your way around the country.

We said we had good friends in Bamyan and Herat, that they would be our translators, which seemed to satisfy him.

He’ll also ask for the provinces you plan to visit and after the interview, you’ll speak to the highest authority from this department, the person responsible for signing your travel permit and giving the final OK.

Afghanistan travel tip: Remember that on Friday, the offices are closed.

How to register at the regional office

Once you get your general travel permit, you will also have to register at the regional Information & Culture Department of every province you visit.

For example, if you visit Kandahar, the first thing you should do before sightseeing is just showing up at the respective office to get the local permit, which you will get only if you show them the general travel permit you got in Kabul.

This local permit will allow you to visit freely all the sites within the province.

Where are these offices located?

• Herat is here
• Kandahar is here
• Bamyan is here
• Mazar is here

How to deal with the Taliban when you’re in Afghanistan

Taliban are everywhere and, as an independent traveler, you will have to interact with them at checkpoints or when trying to get your permits.

Here’s what you need to know about it.

Taliban are generally kind with foreigners

Believe it or not, most Taliban I spoke with were particularly nice and helpful.

They are mostly Pashtun, a group of people living across Pakistan and Afghanistan, known for being the most hospitable people on Earth, ruled by a code of conduct that dictates that guests should be protected with their own life if needed.

I personally believe that, on most occasions, their kindness is genuine but you also need to remember that Taliban wish to be recognized as a legit Government and that their extreme kindness could be part of that strategy.

Taking photos with Talib boys

Taliban are usually very keen to be photographed or to be in selfies, and they seem to enjoy it a lot, so don’t be shy and just ask.

Remember that you don’t need to like them, but at least pretend that you do

Look, I have no particular sympathy for the Taliban.

At the end of the day, we all know that their aim is imposing and forcing all Afghans to follow their fundamentalist Orthodox ideas of Islam.

However, if you want to travel around the country independently, you will need to play along with their game and if you are not willing to do that, perhaps you should travel in Afghanistan with a local guide, so your interactions with them will be minimum.

I am at a stage where I don’t really care to be judged by other travelers – or people reading this blog – so know that in Kabul, I did buy a Taliban flag, which I showed and waved at checkpoints when I found it convenient, just to make our journey a smooth one.

What’s the general opinion on Taliban?

It’s important to remember that Afghanistan is the most conservative country in the world (along with Yemen and way more than Saudi Arabia ) and whether we like it or not, many Afghans – and that includes many women too – haven’t seen their lives changed with the new Taliban rule and that reason is that they were already following those rules.

This is the reason why Taliban are supported by a massive part of the total population.

Moreover, there’s another significant segment of Afghans who, while they don’t necessarily agree with the Taliban agenda, accept them because they have brought stability and safety across the country.

Nonetheless, remember that not everyone supports them, especially Hazara people – a Shia minority – and that there are many Afghans who, while still conservative, are not happy with their extremist ideas, like banning women from higher education, for example.

💃 How to travel to Afghanistan as a women

What is the situation like for female travelers in Afghanistan?

If you are traveling with a man, it should be fine but solo female travelers will certainly have a different experience.

My friend and fellow traveler Emma Witters has traveled solo extensively across Afghanistan, including in provinces such as Helmand.

You can reach her at @emmawitters_

🛫 How to get to Afghanistan

How to travel to afghanistan by air.

Many international airlines that used to fly to Kabul like Turkish Airlines or Fly Emirates, have stopped operating in Afghanistan.

Today, you may fly to Kabul only with the Afghan-run airline of Kam Air and Fly Dubai .

Fly Dubai departs from Terminal 2 in DXB and Kam Air flights from both Islamabad and Dubai, but also occasional flights from Istanbul, Dushanbe, Taskent or Doha.

Just check flight schedules on their website.

How to travel to Afghanistan by land

Afghanistan shares a border with:

Pakistan : The Khyber Pass at Torkham is finally open but this is the most chaotic border I have ever crossed.

Iran : It’s fully operational. From the Iranian city of Mashhad, you can get into Herat. Many travelers have used this border in the past.

Turkmenistan : The border is open as long as you have valid visas but this is truly unexplored territory. I contacted a Turkmen fixer who told me that Turkmen visas are often denied if your idea is to enter or exit Afghanistan from Turkmenistan, but there’s a chance to get in.

Uzbekistan : You can get into Afghanistan from the city of Termez. Mazar-i-Sharif is the closest big city. Here you have the border crossing report .

China : Very deep into the Wakhan Corridor, at 4,923m above sea level, the Wakhir pass connects Afghanistan with China. The border is closed for foreigners and in any case, it’s just too remote to go.

Tajikistan : There are a few border crossings. Ishkashim used to be the most popular one but that one is closed now. Shir Khan, near Kunduz, is the one that is now open to foreign adventures.

👨 Independent travel in Afghanistan

Is independent travel allowed in Afghanistan?

Yes, it is, as long as you have a valid travel permit. Check the permit section of this post.

Is backpacking in Afghanistan difficult?

Well, it depends on your previous backpacking experience and where you want to go within Afghanistan but, to be honest, I didn’t find it more difficult than backpacking in Pakistan .

If you are planning to visit Mazar, Herat, Kabul or Bamyan, it shouldn’t be very difficult. There is plenty of local transportation or you can easily take a domestic flight.

My recommendation would be however, to save the name and location of your hotel because for security purposes, some hotels in Afghanistan have no signs, so they can be difficult to find.

Visiting rural areas, Kandahar province or traveling beyond Bamyan in Ghor province is a different story. Nobody speaks English, hotels are scarce (if any) and there’s little public transportation.

We did travel from Kabul to Herat through the Hindu Kush by public transportation. It was difficult but worth the adventure. Check the travel report.

🗺️ Tours for Afghanistan

Do you wish to join a tour in Afghanistan?

No problem.

In Against the Compass, we have several tours scheduled per year:

• May 15th to 24th, 2024. SOLD OUT
• Aug 18th to Sep 2nd, 2024. ( 1 spot left) APPLY NOW
• Sep 5th to 14th, 2024. APPLY NOW
• Oct 3rd to 12th, 2024 (Spanish). APPLY NOW
• Oct 15th to 24th, 2024. APPLY NOW

Our Afghanistan tours sell out extremely quickly, so do book them in advance.

⛅ Best time to visit Afghanistan

With different geographical areas, Afghanistan can be a year-round destination.

Traveling in Afghanistan season by season:

Traveling to Afghanistan in winter

In winter, many parts of Afghanistan are covered in snow, with temperatures reaching -20ºC in places like Bamyan or the Wakhan.

In my opinion, this is the prettiest season to visit Afghanistan.

Nevertheless, remember that winter doesn’t come with its own issues, and that roads and certain things may be blocked.

We did run one expedition during the heart of winter in Afghanistan, and it was great. Check our upcoming Afghan expeditions here .

Traveling to Afghanistan in spring & autumn

From a tourism perspective, spring and autumn are the best seasons for visiting Afghanistan, when the weather is pleasant across the whole country.

Nevertheless, it can be too early/late for trekking in the Wakhan Corridor.

In late spring or early autumn, it might already be too hot for Mazar or Kandahar. In fact, I visited them in May and the temperature was already at nearly 40ºC.

Traveling to Afghanistan in summer

In summer, cities like Herat, Mazar and Kandahar are hell ovens, with temperatures averaging over 40ºC.

Kabul is hot too but, because of the high altitude, it can be bearable for some.

Summer, nonetheless, is the best season for trekking along the Wakhan Corridor.

🛖 Top 5 experiences in Afghanistan

Some of the best things to do in Afghanistan are:

1. Strolling the streets of Old Kabul

The old city of Kabul is one of those places where there is always something to look at.

It’s chaotic, lively, bustling and its different bazaars are composed of labyrinthic lanes which are perfect for random rambling.

The bird market is perhaps the most acclaimed spot among travelers.

2. Trekking in Bamyan

Few places in Afghanistan feel as peaceful as Bamyan, a mountainous, remote region in central Afghanistan, home to a large ancient Buddhist heritage and some of the most epic, unspoiled mountains in the country.

If you like nature, it doesn’t get better than Bamyan.

3. Learning about the Taliban legacy in Kandahar

Kandahar is the former Taliban capital, where the Taliban movement started and also Mullah Omar’s home city.

It’s also the heartland of the Pashtun, a world apart from the rest of Afghanistan.

4. Visiting the Blue Mosque of Mazar-i-Sharif

This is one of the most imposingly beautiful mosques I have ever seen, dating from the 15th century, a reason by itself to travel all the way to Mazar.

5. Getting off the beaten track in rural Afghanistan

Afghanistan’s countryside offers some of the most unspoiled and authentic areas in the world, regions that have received very little exposure from the outside world, and are home to mesmerizing, lush valleys dotted with adobe-made villages and curious locals.

💰 Budget, money, and costs in Afghanistan

In Afghanistan, their currency is called the Afghani (AFN) and approximately:

$1 = 72 AFN

Afghani or Afghan? Some people commit the funny mistake (including myself in the past) of referring to the people of Afghanistan as Afghani. It’s wrong. Afghani is their currency and the people are Afghans.

Exchanging money in Afghanistan

I always change money at one of the many stalls in Shahr-e Naw, in Kabul.

They accept both Euros and USD. They even accept Pakistani rupees, in case you have any left from your trip to Pakistan .

ATMs in Afghanistan

Surprisingly, ATMs in Afghanistan do accept international credit and debit cards.

Just look for Afghan International Bank. There are quite a few of them in Kabul, especially in Shahr-e Naw area.

Paying by card in Afghanistan

You might be able to withdraw money from an ATM but you can’t pay by card anywhere in Afghanistan, so do have cash for your trip.

How much does it cost to travel to Afghanistan?

Everyday life in Afghanistan is cheap but domestic flights and accommodation add up.

Here’s an overview of the most typical costs.

How much do food and drinks cost in Afghanistan?

• Breakfast in a local restaurant (usually consisting of eggs, bread and tea) – 100 AFS
• Local meal in a restaurant (usually palaw rice, kebab, etc) – 200-300 AFS
• Meal in a mid-range restaurant – 400-600 AFS

How much does transportation cost in Afghanistan?

• One-way domestic flight – 60-120 USD
• Taxi within cities – 50 AFN for short taxi rides. Up to 200-250 AFN for longer ones.
• Half-day taxi in Kabul – Once, I hired a driver in Kabul for the morning to take me to a bunch of different places I had in mind. He charged me 20 USD for that.
• Taxi from the airport to city center – 500 AFN in Kabul, 300-400 AFN in Herat or Mazar.
• One-way taxi to Bamyan – 75 USD
• Round-trip taxi ride to Panjshir – 50 USD
• Local bus within the city – 5 AFN

How much does accommodation cost in Afghanistan?

Here’s the thing.

Good, decent accommodation can get pricey.

Expect to pay anything between 30 USD and 50 USD for a room, a relatively basic one but clean and with security.

You can definitely find cheaper hotels but there won’t be any kind of security.

🛺 Getting around in Afghanistan: transportation

How to travel around afghanistan by public transportation.

Afghanistan has a good network of buses, minibuses and local shared taxis connecting towns and cities.

Experienced budget backpackers won’t find it difficult to move around the country.

Read: Overlanding from Kabul to Herat via Minaret of Jam by local transportation

How to travel around Afghanistan by plane

Taking a domestic flight is also a good option for traveling around Afghanistan.

You can book your tickets online on Kam Air .

There’s another local airline named Ariana . That’s the one I use for flying from Kandahar to Kabul.

Note that airlines in Afghanistan aren’t very reliable. They get delayed all the time, especially Ariana.

Note that all domestic flights go through Kabul, and that there’s no direct flight from Herat to Mazar, for example, or from Herat to Kandahar, but you need to go through Kabul.

Typically, all flights cost $60-$120 and, if you are already in Afghanistan, I strongly recommend booking it through a physical Kam Air office.

It happened to me once that after booking a flight with Kam Air online, the booking never went through, even though they did charge it from my card. Eventually, I had to go to an actual office to sort it out.

Airport security The level of security in all Afghanistan airports is absolutely insane, consisting of several security layers with body searches and bag scans. That’s why it’s recommended to be at the airport at least two hours before your departure time.

Facts about the country, the Afghans and their culture

The islamic emirate of afghanistan.

Something interesting to mention is that when the Taliban took over, the country officially changed its name from the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan to the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan .

They also removed any sign of the official flag – the one with black, green, and red stripes and replaced it with the Talib-friendly white flag, today visible everywhere.

Afghanistan is multi-ethnic

Afghanistan is composed of several ethnicities, including Pashtuns (42%), Tajik (27%) and Hazara (9%).

Hazara are the Shia minority who have Mongolian features, Bamyan being their heartland.

There’s also a significant population of Uzbeks in Mazer-i-Sharif and around, who mostly came from Uzbekistan escaping the terror from former dictator Islam Karimov.

Dari is the main language, but Pashto is official too

Dari is a variation from Farsi, the language spoken in Iran.

Afghans and Iranians can understand each other without a problem.

Dari is the language used by the administration and it’s spoken by nearly 80% of the population.

Pashto is an official language too but it’s usually spoken only by the Pashtuns, who are the dominant ethnicity.

Language barrier can be a problem sometimes

When traveling in rural Afghanistan across the Hindu Kush, I found communicating with people to be extremely difficult, not only because of the language barrier but even sign language didn’t work, probably because they have had so little Western exposure, that their way of communication is just completely different.

Women in Afghanistan

Afghanistan is the most patriarchal country in the world, with or without the Taliban but, since the latter returned to power, women have lost even more freedom.

It’s not mandatory for women to wear the burqa, they can wear a hijab and they can walk alone in the streets but the Taliban have banned them from accessing higher education.

I actually discussed this particular topic with a Taliban sympathizer and he said that according to Prophet Mohammed, schools must be segregated by gender so there’s no actual room for women now but the new Government is doing their best to figure it out.

What I found truly unreal is that he was actually believing all that shit.

🍲 Afghan cuisine

Located at the heart of Central Asia , Afghan food is a mixture of flavors from Iran , Afghanistan, Uzbekistan , and Tajikistan .

It’s heavily meat-based to the extent that it can be a struggle for vegetarians venturing into more rural areas.

Their national dish is Kabuli palaw, consisting of rice fried in meat fat typically topped with carrots and raisins and essentially, the same as plov in Uzbekistan.

Afghanistan also has their own dumplings named mantu , typically filled with mutton and covered with yogurt and yellow lentils.

Ashak is the only vegetarian dish in Afghan cuisine, consisting of dumplings filled with leeks and other vegetables.

Is there any alcohol in Afghanistan?

Afghanistan is a dry country, as it was before the Taliban.

📚 Best books for traveling in Afghanistan

Kite runner – khaled hosseini.

An American bestseller in 2003, Kite runner narrates the story of two Afghan kids in Kabul, a rich boy and the son of his parent’s servants.

The book also gives endless insights of what life in Kabul and Afghanistan is like.

My Life with the Taliban – Abdul Salam Zaeef

This is the mind-blowing biography of a senior former member of the Taliban.

From growing up in conservative, rural Afghanistan to the years he spent in Guantanamo, this amazing book gives priceless insights into the Taliban movement from the inside.

Afghanistan Essential Guide to Customs & Culture – Culture Smart!

Cultural Smart! is a series of guidebooks that focus on the country’s culture, giving loads of information about local customs, cultural etiquette and stuff like that. The one on Afghanistan is great, with deep explanations of why Afghans are so hospitable.

Afghanistan travel guide – Lonely Planet

The travel guide to Afghanistan from Lonely Planet is outdated (2007) but still, is a great source of information on the country. It can be difficult to find a copy.

💻 Internet in Afghanistan

Is there wi-fi in afghanistan.

There’s kind of unreliable Wi-Fi in big cities but if you need it for work, it won’t be good enough.

Getting a SIM card in Afghanistan

To buy a SIM, you’ll have to go to one of the official branches, which tend to open from 8am to 4pm.

There are many mobile companies in Afghanistan, including: Afghan Telecom, Afghan Wirless, Etisalat, MTN, Roshan, and Salaam.

Apparently, each company is only good for certain provinces but everyone was telling us different things.

In the end, I bought MTN because they said it was the best one for all Afghanistan but it only worked in the big cities.

Note that there’s no 4G but only 3G or not even that.

Get a VPN for traveling in Afghanistan

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Afghanistan.

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

❗ More Information

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Afghanistan

• Visiting Kandahar
• Is Afghanistan safe?
• 50 Photos that will show you the beauty of Afghanistan
• Overlanding from Kabul to Herat via Minaret of Jam by local transportation

Travel guides to other countries in Central Asia

• Tajikistan Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Uzbekistan
• Travel Guide to Kazakhstan
• Pakistan Travel Guide
• Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide

You might also like our Haiti travel guide .

75 comments

Excelente tu guía como lo es usualmente. Hay otro blog de un argentino que dice que se puede sacar la visa también en Ankara por 30 dólares. Habrá que confirmarlo.

Thank you Joan for the clear information about Afghanistan. We also have visited Afghanistan before covid independantly. Ever since my partner wants to visit the minaret of Jam without any guide, just our two as you did.

Thanks so much, Joan, for this brilliant and comprehensive guide with so much up-to-date information.

Thanks for the great article, now I am planning to go there in march next year and now have a question because I want to well plan before go. If I get my visa in Islamabad and go to Afghanistan through Pakistan land border how could I get through taliban checkpoints to Kabul with no permit? Considering that I can only get the permits for the places I want to visit in Kabul? And is there reliable transportation if I just pop up in one of the land borders?

Hi Pedro, the Taliban permit is only needed for those provinces you’re actually stayihg, jot if you’re just going through.

There’s plenty of transportation from the border to Kabul.

Hi Pedro, the Taliban permit is only needed for those provinces you’re actually staying, jot if you’re just going through.

Hi, I have a question regarding visa. You are listing here the embassies in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, but in the other places of the internet I see that in these both countries there are actually only embassies of the previous Afghan government. Do you have more informations or experiences on that matter? Greetings

Hi there, travelers I know say they got it there recently with no hassle, that’s all I know

Thank you, Joan! This is the most useful guide on the web right now. I’ve shared it widely. Great work. I say the following, not to judge you Joan, but so that future readers can avoid misunderstanding: The article does have one major drawback. The claim that “TLB are supported by a massive part of the total population” is not true. TLB is an oppressive, dictatorial, awful government that is systematically harassing minorities; further crippling the economy of a desperately poor country; and simply destroying the futures of the 50% of citizens unlucky enough to be women. Afghans recognize this; while there is some support among ethnic Pashtuns, people are not happy being oppressed, like this article makes it sound. As a traveler community, it is important for us to avoid contributing to propaganda and legitimacy of oppressive regimes. Since Joan is running trips here, he likely can’t publish negativity about the TLB, and that is fine. As travelers let’s avoid getting believing the story TLB are trying to tell.

Thanks so much for your feedback and note, truly appreciated, and agree with your points!

Thanks for replying, I hope I will be able to check it out in September and give an update

I’m so glad to have stumbled upon this article! Reliable and updated information about traveling is really difficult to find. I’m originally from Afghanistan but I have a German passport- both my dad and I would like to come to Afghanistan with one of your tours. We both have Afghan names and my dad’s passport mentions he is born in Kabul. Would that be a problem? I’m a bit nervous they will treat us like locals, and not really with the privileges of being a ‘foreigner”. Have you ever had travelers in the same situation? Thanks a lot for your answer!

Hi there! It won’t be an issue, there are Afghan-Americans traveling to Afghanistan nowadays, and we’d be thrilled to have you guys. Our next expedition with available spots is in February 2024.

Wow that is so interesting! I am really interested in Central Asia. Kind regards from a german travel blogger, Meike

If I just flew to Kabul from Islamabad for 3 days would I need to apply for any permits.

If you only stay in Kabul, you don’t need any permit

Dear, Joan, really great website! Thanks! You mentioned, that you can get to Afghanistan from Iran, but can you get the visa in Iran? Take care! Jan

Hi Jan, I am not sure TBH, since I haven’t heard from travelers trying there

I would like to visit Afghanistan, but… is it morally fair? Does tourism legitimate the Taliban government?

Does tourism legitimate Cuba’s government or any other dictatorship?

This article is really informative. I’m a bit unclear about your trip to afghanistan in current times, as I heard it’s not open for tourists. Could you share more details about holidays, the visa process, etc.? It would greatly help me.

I don’t know. Sincerely I don’t. I ask myself the same question, and many other questions, every time I travel. But the situation in Afghanistan is unique in the world.

You can add Doha(Qatar) to the list of embassies that give a tourist visa

Thanks a lot for the update and yes, I had heard about it too

Hi Joan, this is a great article and I’m so happy to have found it. I last visited Afghanistan in 2012 but as you mentioned travel by land was barely possible then. I will be going back next year to travel solo. Do you know how the permit system works crossing from Uzbekistan? I will spend time in Mazar and Balkh but will not have been to Kabul to collect a permit, are permits available at all in Mazar?

Hi Shaun, this is a question for which there’s no possible answer… If you are within Mazar, there shouldn’t be an issue but after Mazar, I’d head back to Kabul to get my permit. If you say you’re on your way to Kabul, it should be fine.

Hiya thanks for the clear explanation really appreciate it. Anyway i am a revert Muslims for 10 years, i was wondering how i can go about in actually moving to Afghanistan for good? Would really really appreciate a reply thanks. Peace

Hi Luis, I can advise you on traveling to Afghanistan as a tourist but not on how to actually live there

Hello Joan Torres, what an awesomely informative post you wrote! I wonder, how frequent are intercity buses? Do they have buses from Kandahar to Herat? Thanks!

Hi Celementi, buses run pretty much the whole day but since Kandahar to Herat is a good 10 to 12-hour drive, I assume they leave in the morning

Hello. I went today for permits in kabul. They are free of charge. I got permits for 5 provinces. Cheers

Thanks for the feedback. However, we also this week got 22 permits for our 2 groups, and we had to pay… I believe depends on the boss’ mood?

Hello, this is all really helpful but I find a few things confusing about this guide.

– What is meant by “1 passport photo”? As in I bring one original photograph that has been used in my passport? I just don’t get this one, especially if I give my passport copy anyway(which has the photo in it).

– The guide says that the Pakistan border crossing is the most chaotic one while the Iran one is really good. But Iran doesn’t issue visas for Afghanistan, so how is this information relevant, unless you apply for both Pakistan and Iran visa, go to Pakistan, take the Afghanistan visa, then go to Iran to cross into Afghanistan?

– It means that they require you to bring one printed passport photo. The one from your visa copy doesn’t work. – You can get your visa in other countries, not only in Islamabad. Maybe some people get it in Dubai and then fly to Iran, who knows.

This is an amazing article! If I were to travel with a 14 year old son, would it be frowned on by the Taliban? Would it be just as safe? Do you often have kids/adolescents on your tours?

Hello, I’ve never had kids in my tours. Afghanistan is a great destination but I am not sure if it would be very suitable for a 14-year old kid.

Very intersting information,you share. Thank you.

I consider overlanding Afghanistan by own car from Iran either to Pakistan or Usbekistan in June 2024.

Can you recommend a trustworthy company to assist me?

What do you need assistance with? We are a trustworthy company who organized trips in Afghanistan: https://expeditions.againstthecompass.com/destinations/afghanistan/

Hey I’m very interested in going to Afghanistan. I’ve seen a number of YouTubers visiting Afghanistan recently. One thing I noticed, is that none of them are American. Are there U.S. citizens (non Afghan-American) who have successfully toured Afghanistan under the recent Taliban control?

Hi Brian, we’ve had many Americans in the group expeditions we organize: https://expeditions.againstthecompass.com/destinations/afghanistan/

Hey there! Great article! I’m doing a bicycle trip actually and thinking about going trough Afghanistan. With wild camping and so on… Is it possible to get a Visa for AFG in Theran? What about permits? Is it possible to get them in Herat or do I have to go to Kabul for them first?

Hi Sebastian, you should be able to get an Afghan visa in Tehran nowadays.

As per general permits, rules are not written in Afghanistan, so this is a tough question to answer. What I’d do is going to the respective office in Herat as first step, and try to get your permits from other provinces from there, while explaining that you can’t go to Kabul.

Keep us posted!

Hello, I’m sorry if this question has already been asked. Do you or anybody else know of any American women that have traveled to Afghanistan? I know many other “Western” women have but how about a woman traveling with a USA passport? Thank you very much.

Hi there, there’s been many women from all skins who’ve traveled in Afghanistan last year, both solo and in groups

Hi, thanks for your great work! But I’m a bit confused: Why are you saying Afghani Visa can only be taken from those 6 cities? What about the others?

Here one guy tells that he got his Visa at the Afghani Embassy in Teheran in October 2023: https://caravanistan.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=2187&start=20

And if I look at the Website of the Afghani Embassy in Berlin they also give instruction how to get the Afghanistan Visa by them. Are they wrong?

Hi Simon, in Afghanistan, things are changing very fast… You can probably get it in Tehran now, as well as in Doha, Istanbul and a bunch of EU cities

I can’t seem to reply to a comment! This is a question for Joan and Shaun Metcalfe:

Shaun – did you manage to cross over the Uzbek-Afghan border? If so – did you obtain your travel permit in Mazar, or were you able to stay and continue travelling to Kabul by saying you were on your way there?

Joan – do you know if the embassy in Bishkek is issuing visas to non-residents? Their website specifies residents only, but I wondered if you or anyone else had any luck there!

Hello Josh, I don’t really know if they allow non-residents to apply, you’ll have to give it a chance!

Hi Joan, have you had any experience of travelling to the US and China with an Afghan visa and stamp in your passport? Do you get sent to secondary inspection or denied entry?

China is not a problem. For Afghanistan, with a EU passport, you won’t get your ETSA approved if you’ve been to Afghanistan. If you already have a USA visa, then it’s not an issue.

Hi! Was wondering whether my student visa application to the US will be denied if I have an afghanistan visa in my passport. Or, if I will get denied when I land into the US or UK with the afghan visa. I am a Malaysian citizen.

Thank you for making this blog post, really! This is literally the only accurate updated information you can find all in one place on the internet for Afghanistan. Excellent job making this and us in the travel community really appreciate this. You cannot find information like this that is easily readable anywhere else.

Thank you!!

Dears, does anybody know, how is it with getting double entry visa to Pakistan for getting Afghan visa in Peshawar and go to Kabul and back to Peshawar via Torkham.

Hey Joan, do you know if drones are allowed in Afghanistan?

Hi Owen, technicaklly they aren’t, but I’ve flown a drone in Afghanistan recently. Worst case scenario they’ll take it from you

Good article, thank you for the information. The Taliban consists of 99.9% pashtuns because their tribal code pashtunwali is pretty much the same as extreme, hard-line Islam. Hazara people being slaughtered and murdered by pashtuns for 150years since the English armed their pashtun puppet king Adbur Rahman Khan who to return the favour killed 60% of the Hazara population. Genocide that continues into modern days. No coincidence that most bomb blasts happen in Hazara areas. A quick glimpse into traditional persian/afghan culture will show you it’s colourful, artistic, poetic and full of music. Quite the opposite what the murderous regime called Taliban is enforcing at the moment. Most people go on with their every day life because finding enough food and feeding your family is a more immediate issue than who is on government. Anyway, the article has some great information thank you.

thanks for sharing your opinion, Daniel, big hug from Afghanistan!

The way you express your anger is extremely unprofessional. You not agreeing with their culture/religion or how they run things around would definitely not justify the way you give such comments about them! I feel sorry for them for being too kind to you.

Are you OK, man?

Hi, thank you for all useful articles. Please, do you have valid information about getting visa in Dubai or Abu Dhabi? Or is anyone here with the process of obtaining visa in these embassies? And I one more question, visa fee in Islamabad is still 80 USD? I got information about price 170 USD. Now little bit confused. Thank you for a reply. David

Visa in Islamabad is now 130 USD for most passports but could be up to 200 USD for Americans for example.

In Dubai, we just got it last week. You show up at the embassy and waiting time is around 1-2 hours. Things you need are: – 2 passport photos – passport copies – LOI + ID of your sponor – 130 USD for most passports, 210 USD for Americans. Price keeps changing though…

Thank you very much for your reply. Any recomendation how to get LOI? is it possible normally for example via coachsurfing or official travel agency neede? Thank you and good luck David

Hi David, only travel agency, but what do you need an LOI for? It’s not mandatory.

For those of you, that are concerned about legitimizing the Taliban government by traveling to Afghanistan, I would offer this. I asked myself the same question, but if there is one thing I have learned being a travel 1%er, what we bring to the world cannot be accomplished by any government policy, or any boycott of the special brand of love and acceptance we bring. Whatever money we spend and “accreditation” we give to a government our governments shun, is far offset by the mission. I’m bringing understanding, kindness, and a pure human experience.

thanks, Mike!

Hi Did you take the land border to return to Pakistan? And did you need the permit to cross the border? Thank you

I didn’t cross the border on my way to Pakistan but one of our customers did, and we had to issue her a permit

Hi again. So LOI + ID of your sponsor is not mandatory? Because you mentioned (things you need) when getting visa in Dubai…So please, how is it? David

Hi David, in Afghanistan, things are not written by the book, including in their embassies abroad, where different travelers have different experiences, especially when it comes to $ and the need for the LOI. Usually, LOI is not required but there’s been cases where they did. I am sorry that I can’t be more accurate, but this is how it works there.

Joan, it is OK, no worries. In the end I decided to obtain visa in Dubai. As you described, it takes a few hrs, doesn’t it? It is not necessary to make appointment in advance? Just come in the morning with all needed documents and later for collecting visa and passport? Again thanks for your useful advice…

Yes, that’s how it works

Hi Joan I don’t think it’s correct that you are painting the Taliban as peaceful leaders and they are trying to be positive because that is just not true. Yes the kidnappings are virtually inexistent, but violence against their people is increasing daily. They have just announced public stoning for women (not men) and have already been carrying out public floggings and executions. Women whose husbands have died have no way of being able to earn an income and are having to resort to measures such as drugging their children so they are sleepy and don’t cry out for food. Most people who will say they support the new regime will do so publicly because they are fearful of the repercussions of speaking out. Everyone has to make their own choice about where they travel but I would strongly encourage you to reconsider your wording about putting the Taliban in such a positive light. Certainly posing for photos with the Taliban should be strongly discouraged as this directly feeds into their propaganda. While it is true that there are many nations where is ethically questionable to go there surely one line that should not be crossed in the name of a good travel story is a nation announcing the public stoning of women?

Good guide with detailed information, however your opinions on the way they want to rule their country is irrelevant. If the population wants women and men to go to separate schools and universities, then let them do it. Much better than western schools where young people intermix and lose virginity before marriage.

You’re very funny

https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2024/5/18/three-afghans-three-spanish-tourists-killed-in-bamyan-shooting

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Travel Company Boss Hurt In Afghanistan Attack

British tourists are among those injured in Herat province after rebel insurgents opened fire on their convoy.

Friday 5 August 2016 08:13, UK

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The 78-year-old founder of an adventure travel company based in West Yorkshire is among seven tourists injured after their convoy was attacked by Taliban militants.

Geoff Hann, who claims to have over 40 years of overland adventure travel experiences, is being treated for shrapnel wounds caused by a rocket propelled grenade, according to family friend Rebecca Greaves.

An Afghan government official said the insurgents opened fire on a minibus in the convoy as it made its way through Herat province in the west of the country and an improvised explosive device was also used. 

Seven other British tourists were among the group of 12, though military spokesman Najibullah Najibi said no-one was seriously hurt in the attack.

A text message from Mr Hann's business partner sent to Ms Greaves after the attack confirmed what happened.

"It said: 'Jeff attacked in Afghanistan' and I said 'Oh my God, what happened?' (and the reply was) 'He's alive, he was travelling in a police convoy; all passengers (are) alive but (with) shrapnel injuries and all belongings destroyed'," she said.

"Then I asked 'Was it a bomb or people with guns?' and she said it was an RPG."

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Mr Hann's company Hinterland Travel claims on its website to be "regularly re-visiting Afghanistan after the years of International and Internal conflict in this starkly beautiful country".

It continues: "Some people will think that this is a little premature given that there is still internal dissension. We prefer to state that Afghanistan is at the cutting edge of adventure tourism, which in its self can offer benefits and progress."

Afghanistan's interior ministry said the group were on their way from Bamyan province in the centre of the country to the city of Herat.

The Taliban has intensified nationwide attacks, with foreigners increasingly targeted as the conflict escalates.

Bamyan, home to a large national park, attracts some of the few tourists who do visit Afghanistan, but it is wedged between volatile provinces locked in a violent insurgency.

Highways in Afghanistan have become increasingly dangerous, with armed groups frequently kidnapping or killing travellers.

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• Iraq: 20 Years On

Geoff Hann: Extreme tour guide with a passion for Iraq whose final trip ended in tragedy

Champion of iraq's ancient culture died under police guard with members of his party under arrest.

Geoff Hann, second from right, leads one of his tours in Iraq. Photo: Raad Al Qassimi

For a man called the world’s most extreme tour guide, Geoff Hann had treated war, sanctions, terrorism and a global pandemic as minor hurdles in a mission to share his passion for the ancient history of modern Iraq.

He took a party to the country during the 1980-1988 Iran-Iraq war, and was one of the first to take tourists to survey the destruction wreaked by ISIS in Mosul.

The Briton was there after western governments imposed sanctions on the regime of Saddam Hussein and when the Covid-19 travel bans were finally lifted.

But at the age of 85, a final tour of the riches of the nation proved one trip too far for Mr Hann, who died last month in a Baghdad hospital after failing to recover from a stroke.

The champion of the country’s ancient culture died under police guard, and with two members of his party facing charges of smuggling historic artefacts . It was a desperate end to a life of remarkable adventure.

The two European tourists are due back in court next month after their arrests for collecting fragments of broken pottery from the historic site of Eridu, south-east Iraq, as mementoes.

Briton Jim Fitton, 66, and German Volker Waldmann were held after border officials found the shards in their luggage as they prepared to leave the country on March 20.

Other members of the group had already left but the pair offered to stay behind to look after the now-stricken Mr Hann, who was taken to hospital after being deemed too unfit to fly, Mr Fitton’s family said.

Colleagues and family of Mr Hann declined to comment on the circumstances of the case because of the continuing legal action, but said he would have been horrified to learn that a couple of his charges were under suspicion of smuggling.

They said his life was dedicated to preventing looting of historic sites.

Despite travelling to some of the world’s hottest trouble-spots, Mr Hann felt the responsibility to his customers keenly.

“He was very protective and caring of the people he took,” said Karen Dabrowska, his former collaborator on respected guidebooks on Iraq.

“He was taking people them to places like Iraq and Afghanistan contrary to [UK] Foreign Office advice. I don’t think the Foreign Office loved him but he never put people at risk.

“He had very good people on the ground who could tell him about the dangers and they never really had any mishaps in Iraq.”

Mr Hann's powers of protection were sorely tested during a trip he led to Afghanistan in 2016.

The group was fired on by the Taliban and their tour bus torched, injuring him and five holidaymakers.

Despite telling the Mirror that members of the tour party could “dine out on that story for years”, Mr Hann was badly affected by the incident, his family says.

“It really disturbed him”, said his daughter, Louise Woffenden. “He came back and he obviously had some physical wounds as well. It was very difficult.”

He had wanted to go to Afghanistan to see how it had changed after the war launched following the September 11, 2001, attacks on the US.

“He was devastated when some of the factions in Afghanistan broke up the Buddhas [of Bamiyan],” said his daughter. “He was in tears.”

Because of the nature of his trips, Mr Hann was always conscious of the personal dangers he faced.

“I always spoke to him before every trip," Ms Woffenden said. "We always said we loved each other. Our goodbyes have already been said."

His passion for Iraq and for travel was undeniable. He started his tour company in the 1970s, inspired by a trip he took in a camper van to India with his two daughters.

His company, Hann Overland, ran trips to Kathmandu but he later came to specialise in the Middle East and countries with rich histories buy hid hard by modern strife.

Mr Hann was a pioneer in organising travel to places that were difficult to reach independently, said James Willcox, the founder of Untamed Borders, a company organising similar trips to the region.

“If people wanted to get to Iraq and see things, he was the man to do it for a long time,” he said.

Mr Hann was a meticulous researcher and an acknowledged expert on Iraq.

Before the 2003 invasion, the US Pentagon ordered copies of his guide to Iraq to try to avoid destroying 6,000-year-old treasures from the cradle of civilisation, said Ms Dabrowska.

“I don’t think he got a thrill from danger,” she said. “He wanted to take people to places like Iraq and Afghanistan and gave two fingers to Saddam and two fingers to the Taliban.

"He’d say these stories are more than them. 'The Tigris and Euphrates were there before we came and will be there after we’ve gone', he’d say."

An Iraqi guide who worked with Mr Hann for 20 years said that he explained his subject with enthusiasm and verve.

“Geoff was my favourite teacher, you didn’t feel bored with him,” said Raad Al Qassimi.

“Geoff is an Iraq icon. Everywhere he had friends. He loved Iraq and Iraqi people loved him. Unfortunately, we’ve lost him.”

Dr Mehiyar Kathem, the author of a gloomy report about the state of Iraq’s conservation efforts, said Mr Hann was well-known in Iraq for bringing tour groups with his company Hinterland Travel, however difficult the circumstances.

“He was an amazing guy," Dr Kathem said. "He was 85 and he kept being active and arranging these tours."

He said the recent case involving the two Europeans highlighted the need for Iraq to better protect its rich cultural heritage and to educate the people who visited about what they could and could not touch.

“A lot of sites are unprotected and are not really open to tourists," Dr Kathem said. "If you go to places like Babylon you can find broken cuneiform fragments all over sites.

“It’s just really unfortunate it ended this way. Many things that could have gone wrong, went wrong.”

View from London

Your weekly update from the UK and Europe

World's most extreme tour guide is 79-year-old from Yorkshire who takes tourists to Taliban-occupied Afghanistan

Geoff Hann and his company Hinterland Travel takes tourists around what is officially the most dangerous country not at war

• 22:40, 20 Jan 2017
• Updated 07:39, 21 Jan 2017

It’s a package holiday that promises stunning landscapes and some of the world’s most astonishing history.

There’s just one small problem. At £3,500 for three weeks, it comes with some added extras which won’t be to everyone’s taste: possible roadside bombs, Kalashnikov-toting bandits and Taliban attacks.

This is the world’s only bus tour of Afghanistan . And it’s run by a 79-year-old great-grandfather from West Yorkshire.

Four times a year Geoff Hann, through his company Hinterland Travel, takes tourists around what is officially the most dangerous country not at war.

Since he set it up in the 1970s he’s taken tourists to danger zones including Syria, Pakistan and Iraq. And he’s rarely run into serious trouble – until last year.

While driving through the province of Herat in August, his group were ambushed by Taliban armed with rocket propelled grenades and machine guns.

Five of the 12 holidaymakers were severely wounded. Only sheer good luck meant none of the group – eight Brits, three Americans and one German – were killed.

They were able to dive behind a roadside wall as their vehicle went up in flames, before a nearby army and police vehicle came to their rescue.

“The clients have been very difficult about it,” says Geoff. “They blame me and want their money back but I didn’t bloody shoot them, did I?

“It annoys me. How many people go on holiday and get shot by the Taliban ? They can dine out on that story for years.”

For Geoff, who started visiting Afghanistan­ in 2002, this goes against the spirit of his trips because all his holiday-makers know the risks involved.

After all, they’re forewarned that highway robbery is routine, and they may have to sleep on tea house floors to avoid hotels – a favourite target of insurgents.

Both mob murder and terrorist attacks have been witnessed on Geoff’s holidays. Once in Mosul, Iraq, his group had to sit, semi-traumatised, on the bus, while outside, a crowd beat a thief to death.

On a couple of occasions, car bombs have gone off during walking tours of cities. “What do we do?” says Geoff. “We gather back at the bus and leave.”

Occasionally in smaller towns, the tourists are ordered to sleep in police barracks for fear of kidnap.

Quite often, a planned schedule will be abandoned because a Taliban uprising is taking place in the next destination.

Any risks, Geoff insists, are limited by his knowledge and experience of the regions they visit. Though he does have to rely entirely on his own wits.

He doesn’t hire personal security for the trips, because it’s too expensive, and any weaponry he could bring is pointless when you’re facing terrorists and the Taliban.

“I used to carry a pistol,” he says, “but what’s the point if someone’s shooting at you with a Kalashnikov?”

Planning, he says, is crucial. Journeys generally starts at about 5am. Before the Taliban is up. And in cities and towns, walking tours are guided by Geoff’s instincts.

“Sometimes,” he says, “you get a feeling a place isn’t right; it feels poisonous, untrustworthy. So you get everyone back in the bus and go.”

Geoff has a variety of methods of ensuring security. Although, when pressed, these seem rather rudimentary.

He doesn’t book rooms at a guest house too long in advance. “Because the fewer who know your movements, the safer you stay.”

At other times, he says, staying safe just depends on staying calm. Once, in 2007, his group came across a firefight­ between two bandit clans.

Amazingly, Geoff claims he spoke to the commanders and requested a ceasefire while the group drove through.

Astonishingly, it was agreed. In return for running the gauntlet, the tourists get to visit some of the world’s most beautiful attractions.

Among sites they tick off, assuming gun-toting­­ warlords wave the minibus through roadblocks – are UNESCO World Heritage sites like the 12th century Minaret of Djam and the six great mountain lakes of Band-e Amir.

Along the way is history that stretches from ancient Buddhist ruins to the skeletons of Soviet tanks from the invasion of the 1980s.

Although the Foreign Office warns against all travel to Afghanistan, Geoff has regularly had to turn customers away from his over-subscribed trips.

Most of those signing up are fascinated­ by a region that is often in the news but, in the main, inaccessible.

And they aren’t young adrenaline junkies seeking a thrill.

“It’s mainly middle aged people,” he says. “They’ve raised their children and they want to do something different.

"Maybe they collect countries. Maybe they’re fascinated by what they’ve seen on TV. Maybe they’re bored.”

For Geoff, who is originally from Surrey, this way of life began in 1971 when his first wife left him. “She went to India to find her soul or whatever,” he says. “And I drove there to try to bring her back.”

The 4,000 mile trip, in a VW camper, aroused a sense of adventure.

When he got home, betrothed in tow, he quit his father’s electroplating firm and started Hann Overland­, a company which specialised in taking young Brits along the Hippie Trail to Kathmandu.

Later, as the hippies thinned out, he set up Hinterland, offering tours to unusual places: Burma, Pakistan and Syria included. Afghanistan and Iraq came later.

Although Geoff often travelled through Afghanistan in the 1970s, it was blocked to foreigners under Taliban rule. Only when the US-led invasion toppled the regime in 2001 was it opened up again.

Geoff didn’t waste any time. “I went in 2002,” he recalls. Parts were still at war, “but I drove around, and it felt safe enough.” S

o, a few months later, as Western and Afghan soldiers continued to fight insurgents, he took out his first tourists.

Trips are first planned from his home-office in Brighouse, near Huddersfield.

Here, he plugs into security reports and news websites, works out routes and speaks to contacts, which appears to mean he asks the local drivers who he hires what they think of his routes.

“Who better?” he says. “They know more than government experts.

"And they’re motivated. If they take us into danger, it’s their heads on the block too.”

Geoff also believes he benefits local people by bringing money into impoverished communities.

He says: “I’ve put so much money into the Afghan economy – we always eat in local guest houses and use local drivers, and we tip.”

And he isn’t about to let anyone, not even the Taliban, destroy that. He’s determined to continue with Hinterland Travel.

“To have some idiot shooting me, that’s not on.” he says. “I need money too. And I know how to keep people safe.”

Geoff has four more trips planned to Afghanistan in 2017, as well three to Iraq. Though he had to cancel a recent one due to lack of interest, which may have been due to last August’s grenade attack.

He says the Foreign Office wants to block his tours.

“But they can’t,” he insists. “All I want is to give people freedom to move about in restricted areas. They’re not stopping me now.”

So it’s a case of Keep Calm and Carry on... up the Khyber.

MORE ON Taliban Afghanistan Holidays

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Afghanistan

Travel Advisory December 18, 2023

Afghanistan - level 4: do not travel.

Updated with information on risk of wrongful detention

Do not travel to Afghanistan due to terrorism, risk of wrongful detention, kidnapping and crime.

Country Summary: In 2021, the Taliban took over Afghanistan and announced an “interim government” based in the capital, Kabul. The U.S. Embassy in Kabul has suspended operations, and the U.S. government is not able to provide any emergency consular services to U.S. citizens in Afghanistan.

U.S. citizens should not travel to Afghanistan for any reason.

Multiple terrorist groups are active in country and U.S. citizens are targets of kidnapping and wrongful detentions. The Department has assessed that there is a risk of wrongful detention of U.S. citizens by the Taliban. The Taliban have harassed and detained aid and humanitarian workers. The activities of foreigners may be viewed with suspicion, and reasons for detention may be unclear. Even if you are registered with the appropriate authorities to conduct business, the risk of detention is high.  

The Taliban do not regularly permit the United States to conduct welfare checks on U.S. citizens in detention, including by phone. Detention can be lengthy and while in detention, U.S. citizens have limited or no access to medical attention and may be subject to physical abuse.

U.S. citizens in Afghanistan in need of routine consular services can contact any U.S. embassy or consulate outside of Afghanistan for assistance, although our ability to assist U.S. citizens in Afghanistan is extremely limited. To locate the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate outside of Afghanistan, click here .

U.S. citizens who are in Afghanistan are urged to depart immediately via commercial means if possible. U.S. citizens who are seeking U.S. government assistance to depart should email complete biographic details and contact information (email and phone number), as well as U.S. passport number, to [email protected] .

The Department of State will continue to provide information via the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) , Embassy Kabul’s web page , Travel.State.Gov , Facebook , and Twitter/X .

If you choose to disregard the Travel Advisory and travel to Afghanistan:

• Follow the Department of State on Facebook and Twitter/X .
• Visit our website for Travel to High-Risk Areas .
• Review your personal security plans.
• Be aware of your surroundings and local security developments at all times.
• Keep a low profile.
• Notify a trusted person of your travel and movement plans.
• Make contingency plans to leave when it is safe to do so that do not rely on U.S. government assistance.
• Draft a will and designate appropriate insurance beneficiaries and/or power of attorney.
• Discuss a plan with loved ones regarding care/custody of children, pets, property, belongings, non-liquid assets (collections, artwork, etc.), funeral wishes, etc.
• Leave DNA samples with your medical provider in case it is necessary for your family to access them.
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security updates and ensure you can be located in an emergency. Read the  Country Security Report  For Afghanistan.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel. 

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Polio vaccination up to 1 year before travel is recommended. See the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention Fact Sheet

Embassies and Consulates

U.S. Embassy Kabul U.S. Embassy Kabul suspended operations on August 31, 2021. Email: [email protected]

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Learn about the U.S. relationship to countries around the world.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

On August 31, the U.S. Embassy in Afghanistan suspended all operations and military-assisted flights. Please read the Travel Advisory for Afghanistan.

Passport and Visas: U.S. Citizens must have a valid passport and Afghan visa to enter and exit Afghanistan. Travelers arriving without a valid visa are subjected to deportation or confiscation of their passport and heavy fines.

Dual Nationals/Afghan Heritage: U.S. citizens born in Afghanistan of Afghan parents are considered to be Afghan nationals and are not required to have an entry visa. For U.S. citizens of Afghan parentage, but not born in Afghanistan, an entry permit is required.

Registration: Foreigners arriving in Afghanistan are fingerprinted during the immigration process. Foreign passengers arriving at the Kabul International Airport are expected to register with a representative of the Ministry of Interior’s Foreigners’ Registration Office. If the airport office is closed, registration may take place at the Ministry of Interior’s Kabul Statistics Office located at Kart-e-Parwan Square in front of Nadirya High School. The registration card must be surrendered upon the foreign national’s departure from Afghanistan.

Medical Requirements: The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrictions for visitors or foreign residents of Afghanistan.

Please visit the Consular Affairs website for information on dual nationality , prevention of international child abduction , and customs regulations .

Safety and Security

On August 31, the U.S. Embassy suspended services. Please read the  Afghanistan Travel Advisory which advises U.S. citizens not to travel to Afghanistan and those in Afghanistan should shelter in place. The security situation is extremely unstable and the threat to U.S. citizens remains critical. No province in Afghanistan should be considered immune from violence, and the potential exists throughout the country for hostile acts, either targeted or random, against U.S. and other foreign nationals at any time. U.S. citizens who do decide to come to Afghanistan should maintain a low profile and exercise extreme discretion in disclosing their movement plans and personal information. Security alerts for Afghanistan can be found here.

Terrorism: Terrorist groups and those inspired by such organizations are intent on attacking U.S. citizens abroad. Terrorists are increasingly using less sophisticated methods of attack – including knives, firearms, and vehicles – to more effectively target crowds. Frequently, their aim is unprotected or vulnerable targets, such as:

• High-profile public events (sporting contests, political rallies, demonstrations, holiday events, celebratory gatherings, etc.)
• Hotels, clubs, and restaurants frequented by tourists
• Places of worship
• Shopping malls and markets
• Public transportation systems (including subways, buses, trains, and scheduled commercial flights)

Terrorist Attacks: Decades of disorder and warfare have made Afghanistan fertile territory for international terrorism. U.S. citizens and other foreign nationals are primary targets of terrorist organizations. Extremist groups across Afghanistan continue to utilize a variety of tactics to expand their territorial influence, disrupt governance, and create a public perception of instability. Such tactics include the use of attackers laden with suicide vests, vehicle-borne explosive devices, magnetic explosive devices, indirect fire (rockets and mortars), and direct fire (shootings and rocket propelled grenades). Military and security personnel, Afghan government buildings, foreign embassies, non-government organization offices, and soft targets, such as hotels, markets, schools, hospitals, and public gatherings, are common attack targets. Kabul has been and remains a high-profile location for large-scale insurgent attacks, as successful operations in the capital tend to generate media coverage. U.S. citizens in Afghanistan should familiarize themselves with their residential compound or hotel’s emergency planning and rehearse the steps they would take if the venue were to come under attack.

For more information, see our Terrorism page.

Kidnapping/Hostage Taking: Extremist groups and kidnapping syndicates are actively targeting foreign nationals, specifically U.S. citizens, in Afghanistan, including journalists, aid workers, teachers, medical professionals, and individuals associated with international and non-governmental organizations. Criminal groups in Afghanistan will target any individual perceived to have money for kidnapping and/or extortion. Kidnap-for-ransom syndicates may also sell their captives to terrorist groups, with victims potentially spending years in captivity.

Demonstrations and Riots: U.S. citizens should avoid all rallies and demonstrations, as even events intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and escalate into violence with little warning. Public gatherings and demonstrations have also been the targets of terrorist attacks.

Property/Business Disputes: Afghan-Americans returning to Afghanistan to recover property often become involved in complicated real estate disputes involving threats of retaliatory action, including kidnapping and assassinations. Similarly, U.S. citizens involved in business or commercial disputes have been threatened with detention, arrest, and imprisonment, and had their property seized to use as collateral. U.S. citizens have reported being physically attacked and family members have also been harmed as the result of such disputes. U.S. citizens who find themselves in such situations should not assume that either local law enforcement or the U.S. Embassy will be able to assist them in resolving such disputes. Hiring a private attorney, early on the dispute, especially one who can act on behalf of the U.S. citizen when he/she is outside Afghanistan, is recommended.

Communications: Large parts of Afghanistan are extremely isolated and landline telephone communications remain limited. Cell phone service is unpredictable, and areas outside major urban centers suffer from irregular and weak signals. Insurgents have been known to attack telecommunications infrastructure and coerce operators into turning off cell phone towers. U.S. citizens in Afghanistan should always carry backup communications such as satellite phones or handheld radios, along with a vehicle/personal tracking device.

Crime: Afghanistan is considered a critical threat environment for crime. Criminal organizations, including weapons and narcotics traffickers, undermine peace and stability throughout the country. Common petty or street crime exists, primarily in cities. Transient populations and internally displaced peoples may contribute to crime and lawlessness.

Victims of Crime: There is no U.S. Embassy in Afghanistan. Local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting crime. The local equivalent to the U.S. “911” emergency line is “119” in Afghanistan. Please note that local operators do not speak English and that emergency services are restricted to the major cities. The emergency line may not be answered, and response times are usually longer than in the United States.

Local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting crime committed in Afghanistan, but travelers should not rely on significant assistance from such authorities in resolving legal disputes. This is especially true of U.S.-based companies and their employees seeking local protection from extralegal efforts to resolve contract disputes. Property may be seized, and personnel may be detained as collateral pending the resolution of such disputes.

See the Department of State’s webpage on help for U.S. victims of crime overseas for additional details.

Tourism: No formal tourism industry infrastructure is in place. Tourists are considered to be participating in activities at their own risk. Emergency response and subsequent appropriate medical treatment is not available in-country. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance. See our webpage for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage .

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties: U.S. citizens in Afghanistan are subject to Afghan laws. A U.S. passport will not help you avoid arrest or prosecution and may result in heightened attention by police and prosecutors, some of whom may seek to exploit your status as a U.S. citizen for financial or political gain. Persons violating Afghan laws, even unknowingly, may be fined, arrested, imprisoned, or possibly executed. Penalties in Afghanistan can be more severe than for similar offenses in the United States.

Photography of military installations, including equipment or troops, may lead to arrest or detention. Possession of alcohol is illegal as is driving under the influence. Penalties for possessing, using, or trafficking in illegal drugs are severe, with offenders often facing long jail sentences and heavy fines. Sexual relations between unmarried couples are generally forbidden in Afghanistan.

U.S. citizens should also note that they are still subject to U.S. federal laws while traveling or living abroad. Engaging in sexual conduct with children or using or disseminating child pornography in a foreign country is a crime prosecutable in the United States.

Religion and Islam: Islam provides the foundation for Afghan customs, laws, and practices. Foreign visitors -- men and women -- are expected to remain sensitive to the Islamic culture and not dress in a revealing or provocative manner, including the wearing of sleeveless shirts and blouses, halter-tops, and shorts.

Although the Constitution of Afghanistan allows for the free exercise of religion , proselytizing may be deemed contrary to Islam and harmful to society. Committing a blasphemous act or producing or distributing material deemed critical of Islam is punishable by long-term incarceration or the death sentence. Apostasy may carry a maximum penalty of death for Muslims who denounce Islam or convert to another religion. Allegations of conversion of Afghan citizens are taken particularly seriously. False accusations of blasphemy or insulting Islam have led to deadly mob violence.

Counterfeit and Pirated Goods: Although counterfeit and pirated goods are prevalent in many countries, they may still be illegal according to local laws. You may also pay fines or have to give them up if you bring them back to the United States. See the U.S. Department of Justice website for more information.

Faith-Based Travelers: See the following webpages for details:

• Faith-Based Travel Information
• International Religious Freedom Report – see country reports
• Human Rights Report – see country reports
• Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad

Financial Debts : U.S. citizens in Afghanistan have been detained and arrested in cases involving financial debts and contract disputes, as these disputes are generally considered as criminal matters in Afghanistan. Hiring an attorney in the early stages of such a dispute is recommended. 

Women Travelers: Afghanistan is a traditional country, particularly when it comes to gender roles and behavior. To help maintain a low profile, women should ensure their shirts cover their full arms, collarbone, and waistband, and their pants/skirts cover their ankles, especially when traveling outside Kabul. Almost all women in Afghanistan cover their hair in public; female travelers are advised to carry scarves for this purpose. Women visiting Afghanistan should be alert of the risk of sexual assault and are recommended to review the Department of State’s travel tips for women travelers .

LGBTI Rights: While homosexuality is not explicitly illegal under Afghan law, individuals may be prosecuted under laws forbidding sodomy, and sexual relations between unmarried individuals is generally forbidden. LGBTI individuals face discrimination, violence, and persecution in Afghan society. See our LGBTI Travel Information page and section 6 of our Human Rights report for further details.

Forced Marriage: The Embassy is aware of cases involving U.S. citizen women of Afghan heritage who have been convinced by their families to travel to Afghanistan, usually under the guise of visiting relatives, only to find themselves forced into marriage. The U.S. government considers forced marriage to be a violation of basic human rights and in the case of minors, a form of child abuse. Forced marriage is defined as one in which one or both parties have not consented to the marriage (or are incapable of providing meaningful consent) and differs from arranged marriage. Often, victims of forced marriage are subjected to non-consensual sex, physical and emotional abuse, and isolation. Individuals who refuse a forced marriage may be threatened with violence or with being disowned by their families, who also often confiscate their belongings (including passports).

Travelers Who Require Accessibility Assistance: Afghan law protects the rights of persons with disabilities, but the provisions are not implemented in practice. Persons with disabilities face limited access to transportation, public buildings, hotels, and communication accommodations. There are few sidewalks and no curb-cuts, and most buildings lack elevators.

Banking: Access to banking facilities in Afghanistan is limited and unreliable. The economy generally operates on a cash-only basis, though the use of credit cards is becoming more common in larger cities. ATMs are available in major cities, but U.S. banks often deny transactions from Afghanistan unless a traveler provides advanced notice of the transaction. International wire transfers options are limited.

Customs: Afghan customs authorities generally enforce strict regulations on the import/export of certain goods such as alcoholic beverages, religious materials, antiquities, medication, precious stones and metals, and printed materials. U.S. citizen travelers have faced fines and/or confiscation of items considered antiquities upon exiting Afghanistan. Weapons/Firearms: U.S. citizens, including security contractors and military personnel, should carefully review Afghan import/export restrictions on weapons, firearms, and ammunition, including antique or display models. It is also important to review the regulations of any country through which you may transit, as many countries have strict rules prohibiting these items, even in checked luggage. Consult the U.S. Customs and Border Protection for information on traveling with such items into or out of the United States.

Basic medical care is available in major Afghan cities but is limited in rural areas. Facilities vary in quality and range of services and are generally below U.S. standards. Doctors and hospitals often require cash prepayment for services. Ambulances are few, lack medical equipment, and are not necessarily staffed by medical personnel. Western-style private clinics can be found in Kabul offering a variety of basic emergency and routine preventative-type care, but their hours are limited, and such facilities may not be suitable for complex trauma cases or severe medical emergencies. Individuals without licenses or medical degrees operate private clinics, and there is no public agency that monitors their operations. 

Travelers are strongly urged to obtain sufficient supplies of prescription and commonly used over-the-counter medications prior to arrival. Many U.S.-brand medications are not available in Afghanistan. Travelers should be alert that many pharmaceuticals found in Afghanistan are counterfeits, and the quality of locally produced medications is uneven.

We do not pay medical bills. Be aware that U.S. Medicare/Medicaid does not apply overseas. Most hospitals and doctors overseas do not accept U.S. health insurance. 

Insurance:  Make sure your health insurance plan will cover you outside of the United States, and specifically covers care when you are in Afghanistan, as many insurance companies consider the country to be an active warzone and specifically exclude coverage for individuals residing or traveling here. Please also note that U.S. Medicare does not pay overseas. U.S. citizens are strongly recommended to obtain  supplemental medical evacuation insurance  as medical transport out of Afghanistan can be prohibitively expensive. When selecting medical evacuation provider, be sure to confirm that the company offers such services in Afghanistan and obtain a list of clinics and hospitals that may be used as a medical evacuation point.  Please note that the U.S. Embassy cannot pay your medical bills.

Vaccinations: Be up-to-date on all  vaccinations  recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Further health information:

• World Health Organization
• U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)

Travel and Transportation

Traffic Safety and Road Conditions:  Road conditions in Afghanistan are generally poor. Many urban streets in Afghanistan have large potholes and are not well lit, and rural roads are frequently not paved. There have also been reports of cave-ins and erosion on the Ring Road (the Kabul-Kandahar-Herat-Mazar highway). Vehicles are often poorly maintained and overloaded. Traffic laws are often not enforced, and roadside assistance is non-existent. Vehicular traffic is chaotic, and drivers must contend with numerous pedestrians, bicyclists, and animals. With congested roads, non-standard traffic patterns, and abundant pedestrian traffic, vehicle accidents are a serious concern and can escalate into violent confrontations when involving foreigners. All drivers are urged to drive defensively, drive only in the daylight, and pay close attention to their surroundings. Owners of vehicles with tinted windows can be arrested. Please see the Department of State’s additional information on  Road Safety .

U.S. citizens should also be aware that land mines and large quantities of unexploded ordnance exist throughout the countryside and along roads, posing a danger to travelers. Robberies and kidnappings are also prevalent on the roads outside Kabul.

Aviation Safety Oversight: As there is no direct commercial air service to the United States by carriers registered in Afghanistan, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed the government of Afghanistan’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization aviation safety standards. Due to risks to civil aviation operating within or in the vicinity of Afghanistan, the FAA has issued a Notice to Airmen ( NOTAM ) and a Special Federal Aviation Regulation (SFAR). For more information, U.S. citizens should consult the  Federal Aviation Administration’s Prohibitions, Restrictions and Notices .

For additional travel information

• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
• See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
• Follow us on  Twitter  and  Facebook .
• See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

For additional IPCA-related information, please see the International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act (ICAPRA) report.

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Attack on tourists rocks fledgling Afghanistan tourism sector

A n attack claimed by the Islamic State group which killed foreign tourists visiting a market in central Afghanistan has also dealt a blow to the country's nascent tourism sector. 

"If there is another attack in the next few weeks or months, Afghanistan's tourism industry will be over," said Joe Sheffer, founder of the Safarat tourism agency, which specialises in tours to the country.

He spoke to AFP after the attack by one or more gunmen on Friday that killed six people in central Bamiyan province, including three Spanish tourists. Another four foreigners in the tourist group were wounded. 

The Islamic State group on Sunday claimed the assault on the group of 13 travellers with a Spanish tour agency, believed to be the first against foreign tourists since the Taliban's return to power in 2021.

The Taliban authorities have touted improved security in Afghanistan ever since their takeover in 2021 ended their insurgency against foreign-backed government forces.

- Knowing the risks -

Bamiyan province, with its giant Buddhas dynamited in 2001 under the Taliban's first rule and turquoise lakes at Band-e Amir, is the country's leading tourist destination.

Sheffer said a couple of customers had already cancelled their trip and the company was reviewing its operations in Afghanistan. 

"We will reduce group sizes... We are cancelling itineraries in remote locations... We are reducing walking in public places," he told AFP.

Founder of the Untamed Border tour agency, James Willcox, said, "Of course, any violent attack on tourists will have a negative impact on future tourist interest."

However, he added: "We have been working in Afghanistan for over 15 years and there has never been a time when there has not been anti-government groups operating in the country. Sadly it is something that everyone that visits Afghanistan has to consider when they travel." 

In Bangkok, Phakhaporn Thantadakul, manager of the Away Vacation tour agency, wants to cancel a trip set for June/July. 

The group from majority Buddhist Thailand wanted to visit Bamiyan, once a major centre of Buddhist influence.

"I will check with my group first because the security is coming first. If anything happens, I cannot handle it," she said.

- 'Negative impact' -

The founder of travel agency Let's be Friends Afghanistan (LBFA) Noor Mohammad Ramazan said, "Questions flooded towards me from clients worried about safety" after the attack.

"Crowded areas and communicating with locals is the favourite part for the tourists in Afghanistan. But unfortunately for a while we will have to stay away from that," he said.

However, he said he believes the attack will not entirely end tourism. 

"We had lots of issues before in Afghanistan but still adventurous travellers want to visit," said Ramazan, who started LBFA in 2015.

French tourist Didier Goudant, who visited Bamiyan for the second year in a row on a ski trip two months ago, said he would hesitate to return now.  

"We knew the risk of terrorism existed in Afghanistan, but it seemed less in Bamiyan, a tranquil, welcoming region," the lawyer said. 

- Lack of infrastructure -

The Taliban government -- not recognised by any country in the world -- is keen to encourage tourism, though many Western governments have repeatedly warned against visiting Afghanistan. 

Though lacking in infrastructure, the beauty of its landscapes and legendary hospitality of its people have attracted a growing number of adventurers to the country recently. 

Tourists have started to trickle in since the Taliban ousted the Western-backed government, with official figures showing visits rose by 120 percent to almost 5,200 last year.

"The problems in Afghanistan is that we have gone from zero tourists to possibly 7,000, some people say 10,000 in the year," said Sheffer, the founder of Safarat tourism agency. 

"It's all been too much, too fast," he added.

"A lot of tour operators who started out in a very slow, extremely cautions way, using a lot of security techniques... a lot of those precautions have kind of been left behind because we are fighting fires in terms of organising infrastructure, organising transport." 

Sheffer predicts the Taliban government, which arrested seven suspects after the attack, will react by imposing more rules on tourists already required to register in every province they visit. 

"It will just make it more difficult for foreign tourists to enjoy the country," he said.

But, he added, it "will do nothing to prevent a repeat of the attack".

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