corsica travel review

Top 11 things to do in Corsica

Mar 22, 2023 • 16 min read

Corsica is the ultimate destination for lovers of the outdoors © Gary Yeowell / Getty Images

Close your right fist, with your thumb over your fingers. Now point your index finger and you have an almost perfect representation of the island of Corsica – essentially a mountain range jutting out of the Mediterranean, whose highest peaks remain snow-capped well into the spring.

Its people are proud of their island: many consider themselves to be Corsican first and (reluctantly) French second, even though the island’s most famous son, Napoleon Bonaparte, became emperor of France! You’ll see graffiti – usually in Corsican, which is closer to Italian than it is to French – calling for independence in the most unexpected places. The Corsican flag (known locally as A bandera testa mora ) is everywhere: a black profile facing left with a white bandana knotted at the back. Why? Nobody is really sure and there are many legends, but the latest academic hypothesis is that the head belonged to Black Egyptian Christian martyr Saint Maurice d’Aguane, whose Latin name Mauritius led to confusion that this was the head of a Moor.

This stunning island has few museums, art galleries, cinemas or theaters. Instead, Corsica is a destination for those who love outdoor activities: hiking, swimming, sailing, kayaking, diving and great food at the end of it all.

Traditional Corsican food is more mountain than maritime. As chestnut trees and wild pigs abound, you’ll find both these ingredients in many a hearty Corsican dish such as wild boar stew or the different varieties of cold meats such as figatellu . You’ll also find chestnuts in many forms in Corsican deserts and pastries. Cheese runs the gamut from mild ( brocciu which is the basis for a variety of both savory and sweet dishes) to extremely strong ( casgiu merzu or rotten cheese). And you can wash it all down with one of the local wines, which are closer in taste to Italian wines than continental French ones.

Around every corner is another jaw-dropping landscape: a stone chapel perched atop a small hill with sheep-studded fields at its feet and snow-capped mountains behind, or a steep ravine of pink granite with a fast-running river at the bottom. Don’t forget to bring your camera.

1. Hike the GR20 (aka Fra li Monti)

This is the mythical 200km-long (124 miles) hiking route, mostly along mountain ridges, from Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south, that most French people associate with Corsica (along with the beaches of course).

Reputed as one of the toughest hikes in Europe, it will take an experienced hiker 16 days to complete with every night spent in a refuge. Of course, you don’t need to hike the whole length of it. You can just do a small segment in a day and get a taxi to pick you up or end (or start) your hike at Vizzavona where you can get a train. The northern section is the hardest as the path can be steep and rocky – in the south, the path is smoother and a bit flatter.

It's unwise to do this hike unless you are well prepared and it should not be attempted by any child under 12. You should only undertake it between June and the end of August. Earlier in the year you may find sections of the path blocked by snow and the refuges, although open, have no guardians. Later the streams you can drink from might be dry. Detailed information and instructions can be found on this dedicated website .

​ 2. Drive from Francardo to Porto

The narrow D84 road from Francardo to Porto is only 78.6km (48.8 miles) long but driving it non-stop would take two hours – "twisty" doesn’t even begin to describe it. But this road is so spectacular that you’ll make multiple stops, not only to admire the landscape of giant granite fingers, deep gorges, Alpine meadows and lakes but also because you’ll be competing for road space with Corsica’s wild black pigs, cows and other vehicles, particularly in the summer months.

Detour: The road climbs up past the village of Calacuccia and its eponymous lake – a hydroelectric reservoir – to the col de Vergio (Vergio pass) at 1467m (4812ft), where you’ll see an abandoned ski-lift, the only remains of the island’s biggest ski resort before it was shut in 2007. As you head down towards the sea through the pine forest of Aïtone, and before you reach the village of Évisa, you can stop and walk about 600m (1968ft) to some small waterfalls and natural pools that are safe to swim in.

​ 3. Explore the island by train

If the thought of driving along Corsica’s vertiginous roads or hiking the GR20 doesn’t appeal, then the train is the answer. The line heads north from Ajaccio to the central Corsican town of Ponte Leccia (2hrs 40mins), where it branches west to Calvi (1hr 50mins) or east to Bastia (1hr 45mins).

The train winds its way through the mountains giving you wonderful views of Corsica’s highest peak, the Monte Cinto (2706m/8878ft,), stone villages seemingly grown out of granite rocks, fields dotted with sheep and goats whose milk is turned into pungent Corsican cheeses, and across rivers and gorges, sometimes winding back on itself so you can look down and see the railway line below you.

Amusingly some of the stops are optional, so if you want to get off the train at any of these, push the button next to the train door. If you’re at the optional station and want to get on the train, wave at the train driver.

Planning tip: You can buy a €50 Pass Libertà which allows you to travel wherever and whenever you want for 7 consecutive days. Timetables and fares can be found on the official website (in French and Corsican only).

​ 4. Find Bastia’s historic heart

Bastia , Corsica’s economic capital, tends to get overlooked by tourists. And that’s a shame because it's a town designed for its 52,000 inhabitants rather than tourists and has plenty to keep you entertained for at least a day.

Terra Vecchia , the historic heart of the city, brackets the old port. Its landmark building is the church of Saint John the Baptist , the biggest in Corsica and built in the 1600s, although the facade and identical bell towers on either side were added in the 1860s. This part of town is small, so don’t hesitate to turn into the narrow streets to explore and wonder how some of the grey-and-beige crumbling buildings that crowd in on each other are still standing. Look for the small niches in the facades that hold a painted statue of a saint and question the safety of a tangle of electrical wires as you make your way past the vast church and onto the southern side, then up the beautiful imperial staircase known as the Falata à a Gabella into the Terra Nova (there’s also a lift about 150m/492ft beyond the staircase if you prefer).

Planning tip: There’s a bustling market – the locals call it u mercà –  just north of the old port on the Place de l’hôtel de ville. Open from 8am to 1pm every day except Monday, it gets particularly animated at the weekend with many Bastiais (residents of Bastia) meeting at the cafes after their shopping for a chat and a drink.

​ 5. Discover seven centuries of island history

​The upper part of the city of Bastia, or Terra Nova, with its straight streets and well-kept colored facades, clusters around the Genoese citadel or bastiglia which is where the town got its name. The Governors’ Palace, built in 1530, hosts the lovely city museum covering seven centuries of the city and the island’s history. There’s enough here to keep you busy for about two hours. On a clear day in the terraced gardens, you can see the Italian island of Elba 57km (35 miles) away where Napoleon spent his first exile, and the old port and the city spread out below you like a map.

Planning tip: If you’re in Bastia on the second or third Saturday of July, don’t miss the A Notte di a Memoria (the Night of Memory) , a historical reconstruction of the Middle Ages ceremony signaling a change of Genoese governor. It involves a lot of drums and flag throwing and some 200 or so Bastiais in period costume parading from the citadel down to the old port, so you can stand anywhere along the route and watch.

6. Don’t miss Les Calanques de Piana

These red-and-pink calanques (narrow, steep-sided granite valleys or inlets) are part of a Unesco World Heritage site on the west coast between Calvi and Ajaccio and are unmissable. The best approach is from Piana. As you drive carefully north along the narrow road winding its way through rocks and scrub bushes, the rocks will start getting bigger, fashioned into fantastic shapes that every person interprets in their own way: where one will see a lion, another will see a human or yet another a strange gargoyle. You’ll get tantalizing glimpses of the sea far below. In the summer the road gets quite busy, so don’t stop on a bend to admire the view.

Detour: There are a few car parks along the route, notably at La tête du chien (dog’s head) from which there is a 1.2km (0.7 miles) easy path to a rocky platform that provides a prodigious view of the calanques and the Gulf of Porto. There are four other hiking paths through the Calanques – ask the Piana tourist office for a map.

​7. Explore the ancient churches of Cargèse

This village, south of Porto, is home to one of Corsica’s most beautiful churches, which also happens to be the only Greek Orthodox church on the island. Saint Spyridon was built by the Greek descendants of the 600 who fled the Ottomans in the 17th century and settled in this coastal village.

The community originally built a small church but by the mid-19th century, they'd outgrown their original place of worship and began the construction of Saint Spyridon in a neo-gothic style. In accordance with Byzantine rite, the altar is hidden from the nave by a wooden partition (an iconostasis). This one is beautifully decorated with icons (some of which were brought by the first Greek inhabitants and date back to the 13th century) of saints and angels on a gold background. The church walls are covered with frescoes and the ceiling is painted dark blue dotted with gold stars – all illuminated by several large, multi-layered brass chandeliers.

What makes Cargèse remarkable is that just across a small gully from Saint Spyridon is the pale yellow facade of the neo-Baroque Roman Catholic church, the Assumption, built in the 1800s. The richly-decorated, colorful interior, recently restored, is also neo-Baroque.

From the photogenic shaded little square in front of this church, there are lovely views of the sea. Take the path that leads down to the port and enjoy lunch at one of the lovely restaurants that are crowded with locals even during the off-season.

​​ 8. Get to know Napoleon in Ajaccio

You cannot escape Napoleon Bonaparte in his birthplace. Ajaccio is the capital of Corsica because he decided it should be, switching it from Bastia in 1811. He’s everywhere, in street names and museums and watching mournfully over the pétanques players from atop his pedestal in the Place d’Austerlitz.

The Palais Fesch , so named as it exhibits the art collection of Cardinal Joseph Fesch, Napoleon’s maternal uncle, is the island’s major art museum. Fesch began his collection whilst accompanying his nephew on the two-week Italian campaign in 1796. By the time he died in 1839, he had accumulated more than 16,000 works of art. They’re not all on show but the permanent exhibition has some exceptional works by Renaissance artists such as Bellini, Botticelli, Titian and Veronese, as well as 17th-century artists Poussin and Van Dyck. 

Napoleon’s parents, Charles and Letizia Bonaparte, are buried in the imperial chapel in the right wing of the palace.

Detour: A five-minute walk from the art museum will take you to  Maison Bonaparte , where Napoleon was born on 15 August 1769 but only resided in until he was nine years old. The house has undergone multiple changes since then and only became a museum in 1967. Written explanations are only in French – use the audio guide for English descriptions.

9. View the clifftop beauty of Bonifacio from the sea

Bonifacio is not only the oldest town in Corsica (founded in about 830 CE), it's also the most spectacular. Perched atop 100m-high, layered white limestone and sandstone cliffs, it boasts phenomenal views south across to Sardinia (only 13km/8 miles away).

For first-time visitors the element of surprise is huge – when you arrive by road, all you can see of Bonifacio are enormous, imposing ramparts and fortifications on a hill to the west of a 1.5km sea inlet. The only way to view the imposing cliffs, and the town's tall houses tethered at the very edge of the escarpments, is from the sea – boat tours depart regularly from the port at the end of the inlet.

When you return from your maritime expedition, wind your way past the restaurants, cafés and souvenir shops that line the port and go up the Rastello ramp ending at the foot of the citadel . There you'll find the much-photographed, white, roofless Saint Roch chapel with its single bell cut out against the blue of the Mediterranean Sea, with Sardinia glistening on the horizon.

You can then turn into the old town through the labyrinth of tight, paved streets lined with ancient, narrow six- or seven-story buildings nestled against each other. Note the aqueducts above the streets connecting the houses and look out for the stone plaque on n°7 rue des Deux Empereurs detailing that Napoleon Bonaparte (of course, who else?!) lived there from 22 January to 3 March 1793 and that it belonged to his ancestors until May 1721.

If you don’t feel like walking from the port to the old town, you can join the families (it's free for under-fives) on the little tourist train.

Planning tip: In summer, Bonifacio gets extremely crowded – you should plan to get here before 10am or you won’t be able to park. Leave your car in one of the two car parks at the port (about €20/ day) or in one of the two (Monte Leone and Valli) on the outskirts of the town (about €5/day). A free shuttle operates to the port from the Monte Leone car park.

If you have a campervan, you can only park at the Monte Leone or Valli car parks and note that the latter is only open in summer. Don’t be tempted to try your luck with the car parks at the top – in summer the town’s population rises from just over 3000 to 15,000, so walking will be quicker! In any case, the old town is mostly pedestrianized. There is also a little road train that goes from the port to the old town, departing every 30 minutes from 9:30am to 9:45pm July to August, 5:45pm in September. Tickets are €5 return, free for children under five.

​​ 10. Create rock art on the black sand beach of Nonza

About a third of the way up the eastern coast of the Cap Corse lies the village of Nonza, planted on the edge of a sheer cliff on the northern side. There are dramatic views of the 150m (492ft) drop to the black beach below, one of the few in Corsica that is never crowded in the summer – probably because there are more than 500 steps to reach it! A few hardy souls make the descent to create patterns with the light grey pebbles on the black sand, which you can admire from the top.

There’s a delightful little village square where you can sit under the shade of the plane trees and unwind to the tinkling sound of a fountain, a cool drink in hand as you nibble some delicious Corsican charcuterie .

Planning tip: If you visit Nonza in the summer, it'll be almost impossible to park in the village – leave your car on either side of the village and walk.

11. Follow in the footsteps of the customs officers

If you’d like to hike but find the GR20 intimidating, then try the 25km-long (15.5 miles) Sentiers des Douaniers (customs officers’ path) that runs around the very tip of Corsica’s index finger (Cap Corse) from Macinaggio on the east coast to Centuri on the west. During this eight-hour hike (or you can break it up and do it over two days) you’ll go from sandy beaches and dunes on the eastern coast to the wilder, rockier landscapes of the western coast. Along the way, you’ll see marks of human habitation: old limestone ovens, windmills, and the ruins of 16th - century Genoese towers.

The section between Macinaggio and Barcaggio (a three-hour walk) tends to be more crowded than the section between Barcaggio and Centuri (five hours). From Macinaggio you’ll go across Tamarone beach and have a view of the dust-speck islands of Finocchiarola topped by a ruined Genoese tower. A bit further along you’ll see the picturesque ruin of a tower right on the beach, sometimes surrounded by the sea. When you reach Barcaggio, climb up the dunes for a fabulous view. On a clear day, you can see the coastline of Italy from up there! Come back down for a swim off the lovely beach – you may share the sand with some wild cows. The fully automated lighthouse on the island of Giraglia lies just off the coast – it's one of the most powerful in the Mediterranean.

You can either return to Macinaggio by boat or stay overnight in Barcaggio and carry on the next day to Centuri. This next section is wilder and windier as it's along the very northernmost tip of Corsica and some parts of the path are quite steep and rocky. Look out for the wide variety of seabirds and you may very well spot some dolphins swimming nearby. This part of the hike goes through a lot of maquis and can be a bit scratchy on your legs. Best to wear trousers rather than shorts.

The hike from Macinaggio to Barcaggio is shorter and easier, and many casual hikers generally find it more pleasant than the second section to Centuri, which is more suited to serious hikers.

Planning tip: This is not a particularly difficult hike, and it’s mostly clearly signposted, but you do need a decent level of fitness and there isn't much shade. Don’t attempt it in the height of summer or on very windy days, as there's a greater risk of fires. Spring is the optimum time when the maquis is in full flower and its colors and very particular perfume are at their best. Bonaparte used to say that he could recognize Corsica just by the smell of its maquis !

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Into Corsica, From Rustic Villages to Stony Cliffs

By Emily Brennan

• July 26, 2016

One reason the French island of Corsica can feel so bracing to a visitor is that — and I mean this in the best way possible — Corsicans don’t much care about you.

Of course, they want to make sure that you’re comfortable and taken care of. But they’re not going to fuss over the details of your itinerary, recommending this sight over that one.

They are secure in the knowledge that their island is wildly beautiful — imagine alpine mountains rising from Mediterranean shores — so they assume that whichever pink granite inlet, mountaintop lake or boulder-strewn valley you do see, even if it’s not the best known, will be among the most wondrous sights of what, you’ve now realized, is your flat and boxed-in life. And they would be correct.

Mostly Corsicans go about their business and leave you to discover their island, which, with about 322,000 inhabitants, is about 105 miles off France’s southern coast. This can be exhilarating, but it also makes getting to know Corsicans themselves somewhat difficult — even for someone like me who was visiting with the Corsican side of my husband’s family.

I had never been to Corsica, and it had been 17 years since my husband, Fabrice, set foot on the island. Growing up on “the continent,” which is what Corsicans still call the French mainland, he’d spent weeks each childhood summer with his grandmother in her birthplace, Corrano, a small inland village.

To him, Corsica was not the Vallée de la Restonica , a trail of gorges and glacial lakes reaching 3,840 feet that is popular with hikers; nor was it the glittering coastal cities of Calvi or Porto-Vecchio , with yachts docked in turquoise waters. The Corsica he knew was not the kind that you sought out, but that happened to you: a wild boar crossing your path in the woods; the butcher truck pulling up to sell the day’s cuts; a fountain’s water breaking the night’s silence. The quotidian sights and sounds of a village that required only time.

We, though, had five days. I feared our short stay wouldn’t give me any real sense of Corsican culture. Fabrice worried we wouldn’t manage to have daily servings of the smoked pork liver sausage figatellu .

Electric street lamps had come to Corrano — that was the first change Fabrice noticed as we rounded a road’s bend, with our 1½-year-old-daughter in the back, to enter the village, clinging, at 1,820 feet, to a mountainside.

It was 6 in the evening, the time of day photographers love for its warm, soft light. But here, high and deep in Corsica’s forested interior, the golden hour is blue. The distant mountains, blanketed with pines and chestnuts, appeared a dark purplish gray.

The second change: The cafe where villagers would play cards each evening was shuttered. The center had no hotels, no restaurants, no markets among its centuries-old granite houses. As we drove on, Fabrice pointed out the field where he and his cousins would play soccer. But where were all the children now?

As with many of Corsica’s inland villages, the story of Corrano, whose population was 87 as of the last census in 2006, has been one of attrition. And it begins with its complicated, fraught relationship with the French state.

Ever since France bought Corsica from the Genoese and invaded it in 1768, quashing the island’s nearly 30-year struggle for independence that followed a line of foreign occupiers stretching back to the Greeks, an outsize number of Corsicans have found employment in the ranks of France’s vast military and imperial bureaucracy.

The most successful, of course, was Napoleon Bonaparte, who was born in the island’s capital, Ajaccio. Though egomania might have compelled him into service, by the 20th century most Corsicans did so as a way to escape the island’s poverty.

During World War I , historians estimate that 10,000 to 12,000 Corsicans, a disproportionately high number considering the island’s small population, died on European battlefields. In Corrano, as in nearly every village we visited, there was a small stone monument to the sons it lost in the war.

In the 1930s, when the island accounted for less than one percent of the French population, Corsicans made up 22 percent of its colonial administration, filling jobs from tribunal presidents to rubber planters throughout North Africa, Southeast Asia and the West Indies.

Fabrice’s great-grandfather was among them. A cobbler in Corrano, he moved his family of seven to Morocco in 1931 to be a government official in charge of prisons there. Fabrice’s grandmother, Marie-Antoinette Malgoyre, who was 3 at the time, said her father had been determined to send his children to secondary school, but in Corsica the closest was 30 miles away in Ajaccio, where rents were beyond his wages. He looked abroad for opportunity.

“It was the time when there were no welfare supplements for children, no reimbursements for health care costs,” Fabrice’s grandmother later told me. “He left for us children.”

The family’s comfortable apartment in Casablanca was a stark contrast to their home in Corrano, which was without electricity and indoor plumbing until the years after World War II.

The academic Robert Aldrich wrote that in the 1930s Corsican dissidents criticized Paris for failing to develop the island’s infrastructure and educational system, giving it “less favorable treatment than many a colony.” (The people of Algeria, Morocco or Cambodia might have disagreed.)

It was no matter to a young Marie-Antoinette, who, during her summer visits to Corsica, saw bathing in the nearby river as an adventure and the lack of electricity as a chance to admire the nighttime sky.

“I had the impression that the stars were going to fall into my hands,” she said.

The morning after our arrival, Fabrice and I set out in search of the Taravo River, where his grandmother used to bathe. Swearing it was this way, he led me down a mountainside, past a granite house and tombs in ruins, to a crumbling stone wall. We followed the path alongside it.

As we emerged from the thick woods onto a meadow of pale grass and cork oaks, I didn’t quite know where to look. My Long Island upbringing had trained my eyes to view nature by cropping out parking lots and people (gaze in the direction of the majestic Atlantic — not at the sunburned bodies on the beach). But this was beauty everywhere at once. My eyes nearly twitched.

After another hour of walking, Fabrice declared the river lost. But on our way back, a boar found us.

Corsica’s lack of development, which had one effect of preserving its nature, and the resettlement of some 15,000 to 17,000 people of French descent from Algeria, after the country gained its independence in 1962, helped stir a resentment that rekindled a nationalist movement on the island.

Since the late 1960s, the National Liberation Front, or F.L.N.C., Corsica’s most active separatist group, and other nationalists have regularly bombed and attacked government buildings and have been implicated in the assassinations of police officers, mayors and, most infamously in 1998, the French prefect , France’s highest-ranking official in Corsica.

In recent years, these violent attacks have become harder to distinguish from those of organized criminals, who have become less interested in drug trafficking than in property development on the island, where the likes of Nicolas Sarkozy reportedly rented a beachfront villa for 34,200 euros a week. Many believe that separatist and criminal networks now intersect.

In Santa-Maria-Siché, a few villages from Corrano, we sat drinking our espressos with a local resident on the terrace of U Cafe di Paleddu, whose sign displayed the enigmatic Moor’s head on Corsica’s flag.

When the conversation turned to tourism, he proposed a solution to keep Corsica from becoming like the built-up, overrun Côte d’Azur: Allow construction only in granite to match traditional architecture.

As for the new stucco houses? “Blow them all up,” he deadpanned, with a wave of his hand. I laughed because it was a joke, but did so a little uncomfortably because, well, it wasn’t a hyperbolic one.

On Dec. 7, 2012, for example, 31 villas owned by non-Corsicans along the coastline were bombed; the F.L.N.C. later claimed responsibility and denied any collusion with organized crime. No one died because all the homeowners were away on the mainland. Since the F.L.N.C. declared an end to its armed resistance against the French state in 2014, an uneasy peace has persisted.

These days, the rhetoric of violent resistance has sometimes been redirected toward the island’s French-Arab minority. On Christmas Day, after an attack that wounded two firefighters and a police officer in a largely North African quarter of Ajaccio, a few hundred people marched through that neighborhood, chanting in the Corsican language “Arabi fora” (Arabs out), reminiscent of the nationalist slogan “Francesi fora” (French out).

A democratic pursuit of nationalism is also taking shape in Corsica. In December’s local elections, nationalist leaders gained power in the Corsican Assembly, with its new president, Jean-Guy Talamoni, making a victory speech in Corsican. French translations were handed out to mainland journalists.

Corsica’s political and criminal troubles, though, have done little to dampen its tourism boom. Three million tourists visited the island in 2015, compared with 1.5 million in 1992, according Corsica’s tourism agency.

Perhaps this is because, aside from bilingual road signs whose French place names have been sprayed with bullets, clashes remain at the periphery. Fighting is targeted; I found no reports of harm to tourists.

Still, all of this history might make your imagination run wild.

For example, if you witness, from your car, the police arresting a man who looks frighteningly like the actor who played the Corsican mobster in the 2009 film “ A Prophet ,” you might find yourself ducking because your husband is yelling that, at any second, an ambush could happen. And you might discover, the next morning, while reading the Corse Matin newspaper that the man was arrested, in fact, for ignoring the police’s signal to stop at a village festival the night before.

That might happen.

To continue our exploration of villages, I had made plans for us to stay at a bed-and-breakfast not far from Corsica’s western coast. Then the owner wrote to me, saying she needed our room for her pregnant daughter who was on bed rest. Slightly disappointed, I reserved the first hotel I found on Booking.com.

But while sipping port over ice at dusk on the terrace of Hôtel Abbartello, built out over Olmeto’s rocky shore, I had to admit that Abbartello’s modern amenities — not to mention its small, stunning private beach on the Propriano Gulf — were a welcome change from hot-plate cooking in Corrano. And I counted the bocce ball tournament, held the next morning in the hotel’s cleared-out parking lot with locals in matching T-shirts, as a village experience.

Our goal was to see Bonifacio’s cliffs by sunset, so we set off from Olmeto on N196, which would take us inland and then to Corsica’s southern coast. This would leave us ample time to stop for swimming and, of course, consuming pork products.

The mountaintop town Sartène met that last objective. The touristy but irresistible Cave Sartenaise sold Corsican specialties like chestnut jams, fig cakes and figatellu. We bought some dried sausages, had them vacuum-sealed to take back to New York and promptly ate them on the road, along with a couple of tarts made with brocciu, a sheep’s- or goat’s-milk cheese.

Heading south along N196, we saw forests that gave way to roadside cemeteries and vineyards, which gave way to maquis, a tangled underbrush of rosemary, shrubs and succulents. Their scent rushed into our car as we climbed the southern coast, and the Mediterranean came into view.

Headlands reached into the sea like gnarled fingers. Pink granite boulders tapered off into delicate, wind-eroded formations. Other parts of Corsica had felt ancient to me, but this coastline was prehistoric.

A hundred feet below we passed Roccapina Beach, an inlet of turquoise water, and continued east until the windswept Tonnara Beach, where we went for a brisk swim. A crumbling stone tower sat next to a little shack serving drinks.

Before sunset we reached Bonifacio. From its windy citadel, we craned our necks to see the undulating white cliffs over the blue straits separating the island from Sardinia, to its south. Below were dark grottoes and yachts sailing into the port.

After a stop at a supermarket for more figatellu and, I insisted, some non-smoked-meat items like grapes, we climbed back into the car and, before dusk, started our three-hour drive back to Corrano.

For nearly 150 miles, I’d driven through Corsicans’ villages, eaten their food and marveled at their landscapes. Though travelogues told me about outdated traditions like vendetta killings, and Fabrice went on about Corsicans being “the last element of proletariat virility” — whatever that meant — I still hadn’t gotten much of a sense of Corsicans today.

My flash of understanding came on our trip’s last day at the least expected moment: while I was frantically picking fleas off my daughter.

We’d been eating an excellent lunch of charcuterie, zucchini beignets and wild boar at the beautifully rustic restaurant U Taravu in Zévaco, a village next to Corrano. My daughter had been fussy, so I’d taken her outside to pet the dog next door. This dog, it turned out, had been put in his cage, away from customers, because it had fleas.

Our waitress, a hearty woman with a booming voice, spotted me swatting away fleas and told us to come inside so she could help wash my child in the restroom.

Mortified, I apologized and kept searching through my daughter’s curls.

“Come,” the waitress ordered with a wave of the hand.

Now I hadn’t heard that tone of authority since I was a child visiting my grandmother, who, from her stoop in Brooklyn, would scold her grandchildren and other people’s alike. If she didn’t know you, she figured she knew someone who did and eventually she’d learn your face, so she may as well take responsibility for you now. Her command was a form of care.

The same principles appeared to be at work in this Corsican village. As the waitress carried my daughter inside, stripped off her clothes and splashed water over her little body in the restroom sink, I felt that same quick assumption of familiarity, that same no-nonsense warmth, that same expectation that you’d be back.

A great resource for bed-and-breakfasts (chambre d’hôtes) or vacation rentals (gîtes) in Corsica’s interior is Chambres-Hotes.fr. A fair number of bed-and-breakfasts also appear on Booking.com and TripAdvisor.com, as do boutique hotels like Hotel Abbartello in Olmeto (33-4-95-74-04-73; hotelabbartello.com).

In other parts of France, as well as in Corsica, I have had luck in calling the tourism bureau of a nearby city and asking for bed-and-breakfast recommendations in the countryside; these employees know the area extremely well and often speak good English.

While Corrano has no advertised lodging, there are a number of nearby, beautiful bed-and-breakfasts, including Châtelet de Campo in Campo (Quartier Canavaggio; 33-4-95-53-74-18;chatelet-de-campo.com); Maison d’Hôtes Zella in Guitera-les-Bains (33-6-80-92-84-46; zella-guitera.com); and Casa Sarrinca in Serra-di-Scopamène (33-6-59-88-12-25; casa-sarrinca.fr).

Excellent traditional Corsican cuisine can be had at U Taravu in Zévaco (Le Village, 33-6-30-93-82-80). La Source in Olmeto (Maggese; 33-4-95-74-61-18) serves delicious wood-fire pizza. For local charcuterie and cheeses, visit La Cave Sartenaise in Sartène (Place Porta;lacavesartenaise.com).

Bear in mind that even among restaurants in touristed cities, a midday rest (la sieste), generally from 2 to 5 p.m., is often respected.

Getting Around

To explore Corsica’s mountainous interior, a car rental is your best option. The Napoleon Bonaparte Airport in Ajaccio has many international companies to choose from, including Hertz, Avis and Europcar. If you need a car with an automatic transmission, be sure to book far in advance, as most companies have a limited supply.

National Geographic’s Corsica Adventure Map is a detailed road map that includes popular hiking trails — essential for exploring the interior, where cellular service can be unreliable.

An article on July 31 about the French island of Corsica misidentified the event that prompted a march through a largely North African quarter of Ajaccio, Corsica, on Christmas Day in 2015. The event was an attack in that neighborhood, not the terrorist attacks in Paris that November.

How we handle corrections

Emily Brennan is a staff editor for the Metro section of The New York Times.

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ZigZagonEarth

Plan unforgettable road trips!

Corsica Travel Guide (France)

Corsica, France is one of the most beautiful islands in Europe with breathtaking scenery from Mountain to Sea. Below is my Corsica Travel guide to help you plan your ideal itinerary including the best places in Corsica (especially beaches), a road trip guide and plenty of photos and video to make you dream of your next trip!

MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TIME IN CORSICA!

This article contains affiliate links ( Disclosure page ). If you purchase using my link, I get a commission at no extra cost to you.

Corsica Travel Guide written by Claire , the ultimate Travel Planning Geek

"With the Zigzag Travel Guides, Planning is half the fun of Traveling"

All the articles are now redirecting to my regional website dedicated to my home region: Normandie. You will find even more content to help you plan your amazing trip!

CorsicaLovers.fr

Best things to do in Corsica

Discover general articles about the best destinations and best things to do in Corsica. Get inspired to visit this magnificent French island with many landscapes from mountains to sea displaying unbelievable colors!  The whole island is magnificent with breathtaking scenery everywhere you look. You won't get bored! Here are the best places in Corsica:

Best Places to visit in Corsica - Tourism

Best beaches in Corsica

35 pictures of Corsica - Landscapes and Culture

16 best villages and towns in Corsica

Ajaccio or Bastia?

eBooks Travel Guides

Plan your dream road trip around Corsica!

• 7 easy-to-plan maps
• 130+ pre-selected locations
• Planning tips
• 220+ large photos 
• GPS coordinates direct to carparks

• 5 easy-to-plan maps
• 85+ pre-selected locations
• Planning tips 
• 150+ large photos 

Corsica Travel Guide - How to Plan your Trip

Below are my articles to help you define your ideal itinerary, get ready to drive in Corsica, plan your accommodations, pack and have a fantastic trip!

Here is a map to help you understand where Corsica island is located in the Mediterranean Sea, South West of France. You can also get a better understand of where the main towns and roads are (Detailed maps designed to help planning are available in the  eBooks .)

How to plan your Corsica Road Trip

How to rent a car in Corsica

Driving in Corsica

Where to stay in Corsica

Need to rent a car in Corsica? My tips:

• Compare prices on my favorite platform: Discovercars.com - one of the best rated comparison sites!
• Choose the car and company you prefer (not too big but with enough power for mountain roads)
• Consider their full coverage option - I always take it for peace of mind! 
• Book early to have a large choice of vehicles!

See my 36 tips about renting a car in Corsica

Best places in North Corsica

Below is your North Corsica Travel guide with some of the best places to see in the region - stunning wild beaches, a desert, a Citadel, the villages of La Balagne... and the Unesco Reserve around the red calanques of Piana and the Scandola peninsula. Unmissable when visiting Corsica!

Things to do in the Gulf of Porto Corsica

How to visit the Calanques de PIana Corsica

Scandola Nature Reserve Corsica

Things to do in Calvi Corsica & La Balagne region

Things to do in Ile Rousse Corsica

Saleccia Beach + Agriates Desert Corsica

Things to do in Saint-Florent Corsica

Magnificent Cap Corse Tour

At the North end of Corsica is the magnificent Cap Corse. It is a unique destination with charming villages, beaches with gold or black sand and mountains plunging into the sea. It offers some of the most breathtaking views on the island.

Drive around Cap Corse Corsica

Village of Erbalunga Corsica

Village of Nonza Corsica

Best places in South Corsica

And now we head to South Corsica famous for its paradise-like beaches such as Rondinara or Palombaggia. But you can also discover great mountain roads, gorges and villages for a more varied holiday in Corsica. Don't miss the famous town of Bonifacio built at the edge of white cliffs. Quite impressing!

Palombaggia Beach Corsica

Things to do in Bonifacio Corsica

Things to do in Porto-Vecchio & South Corsica

Lavezzi Islands Corsica

Bay of Rondinara Beach Corsica

Tamaricciu Beach Corsica

Aleria Corsica (Roman Ruins)

Corsican Mountains

The center of Corsica is mountainous all the way to 2,706 m (8,878 ft). It is a world of magnificent gorges and a hiker paradise. Its main town Corte has a long history and and one of the most breathtaking view in Corsica.

Restonica Valley Corsica

Corsica Mountains + best drives in Corsica

And keep track of your own trip!

GENERAL TRAVEL TIPS

And below are some of my tips to help you have a wonderful trip!

Travel Checklists and Must have travel items

Travel Safety Tips

Best Travel Binoculars

Practical websites to Book your trip

BOOK YOUR ACCOMMODATION

• I personally use Booking.com for their large choice of both hotels and apartments, their real reviews and reductions for repeat customers - Book your accommodations via Booking.com
• I know that some of my Readers from the US and Canada favor Hotels.com for their repeat customer deals - Book with Hotels.com
• And for those you like to compare prices, you can have a look and book through Hotelscombined.com

PLAN YOUR ACTIVITIES

• DAY TRIPS - The other travel option I like to just seat and relax while admiring the scenery it to Book day trips and organized tours. I also like to have my tickets beforehand to save time. I personally use GetYourGuide.com and Viator.com  

GET EQUIPMENT YOU NEED

• CLOTHES, SAFETY ITEMS, PACKING PRACTICAL ITEMS, LUGGAGE, ELECTRONICS... Get it on Amazon (US, UK and Canada only)

GET TRAVEL INSURANCE

• I wish you a very smooth trip, but my policy is: better be prepared. I personally use World Nomads.  Get a quote online here .

PROTECT YOUR ELECTRONIC DATA

• Don't use unsecured wifi without a VPN service to avoid risking electronic theft - NordVPN is one of the best rated VPN services

Par Claire Robinson Region Lovers SARL 76600 Le Havre FRANCE VAT FR21845103191

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France Travel Blog

Is Corsica Worth Visiting?

With its beautiful seaside views, towering mountains, and the vast swath of natural forests, Corsica indeed deserves the nickname, ‘Island of Beauty’. Along the stunning coast are charming port towns, and the hillsides are beautiful villages.

The island has no shortage of things to see and do. It is a haven for lovers of the beach, outdoor sports aficionados, and hikers. Corsica boasts of some of the continent’s most inspiring furrowed landscapes and a thousand-kilometer shoreline with clear waters ideal for scuba diving or snorkeling.

Even though Corsica has been part of France since 1769, its culture is unique. Donkeys still meander across the suburbs, the music is distinct, and the cuisine boasts of unique specialties like chestnut polenta, strong spicy cheeses, and chestnut cookies. 

>>Also Read:  Things To Do In Corsica

Below Are the Best Places to Visit on the Beautiful Island of Corsica to Make Your Trip Worth Visiting:

See the birthplace of napoleon.

General Napoleon Bonaparte is the island’s most famous native. He was born here in the capital city of Corsica, which is beautifully set on the Gulf of Ajaccio. Also, you can enjoy amazing views of the sea from different spots anywhere in the town. At Ajaccio’s center is the Place de Gaulle, which is a massive square with the general’s equestrian statue (made by Viollet le-Duc in 1865).

Another Napoleon spot is the Maison Bonaparte; there, you can see Napoleon’s crib. It displays memorabilia, portraits, and family documents and a gallery dedicated to the French general (comprising of a collection of coins and medallions) at the Musée des Beaux-Arts (Palais Fesch).

Ajaccio is an old town worth visiting to explore the historic appeal with its trails of winding, cobblestone streets. A highlight here is the 15th-century Cathédrale d’Ajaccio, where the general’s baptism took place in 1771. The cathedral’s most drastic piece of art is  La Vierge au Sacré Cour  painting by Eugène Delacroix.

>>Also Read:  Things To Do In Ajaccio

Explore the Scandola Nature Reserve

Made up of less than 8 miles of the island’s northwest coast, the Scandola Nature Reserve is a UNESCO recognized World Heritage Site for its furrowed beauty and biodiversity. Taking a boat from Port Calvi to the north is the perfect way to experience this region. A tour of the place can take in the volcanic forelands of the coastlines and the coves, caves, beaches, sea stacks, and red cliffs. Sea eagles and dolphins are set to join you if the universe smiles on you.

>>Also Read: What is Corsica Famous For

Marvel at the Bonifacio Citadel

Sitting atop the white limestone cliffs of a peninsula with an impressive 70 m drop down on the rocks under, the Bonifacio Citadel’s setting is definitely spectacular. In the 9th-century, the fortification was built as Tuscany’s first line of defense. Since then, the Genoese and Pisans have occupied and expanded it. In fact, the French Foreign Legion converted for their administrative center. In the walls, residents of Bonifacio conduct their businesses in the middle of the twisting medieval streets.

See the Désert des Agriates

The 15,000 hectares of rich wilderness used to be fertile farmlands. But erosion and wildfires devasted the crops and vegetation, and by the 1970s, it had assumed its present state. The region remains deserted but not without life, as it is encompassed in parts by fields, scrubland, and strikingly colorful beaches. Visitors can see a sign of the former inhabitants of the land in huts (made with stone) that might have been used as housing, warehouses, or barns.

Witness Beauty at Palais Fesch Musée des Beaux-Arts

The cardinal Joseph Fesch was Napoleon’s uncle and is responsible for founding this fine art museum. Today, the art repository contains the biggest collection of Italian paintings in France outside of the Parisian Louvre. Masterpieces by Titian, Bellini, and Botticelli are on display in the incredibly adorned gallery.

Corsican and Italian artworks from the 1600s-1900s are also showcased here. However, the highlight here is the collection of Napoleon-related sculptures. For those desiring to go deeper in that aspect, drawing lessons, guide tours, and art workshops are offered. It is located at 50-52 Rue Cardinal Fesh, Ajaccio.

Go for Some Exhilarating Canyoning 

In Corsica, there are lots of sublime canyons, mostly located in the island’s south. Canyoning is an outdoor activity that comprises of rock climbing, swimming, and walking while trailing the waterways and paths cuts through many canyons. Those on the island are in places of ravishing natural beauty, but it can be dangerous sliding there without caution. Many tour organizations offer a range of services to participants. And the cool is that they design participant’s adventure to their level of physical ability and experience.

>>Also Read: Best Canoeing Spots in France

Watch the Bees at Le Jardin des Abeilles

Also called ‘the Garden of Bees’, this unassumingly attractive spot is another place to visit on the island. The Casalta family manages 400 hives, taking about 6 different types of honey from their insect livestock and the beeswax. Health, beauty, and the beautiful blend of sugary treats can be bought at their stall, but ensure that you follow the wooded ‘learning path’ through the close by woods before leaving. And at an attractive location close to the Prunelli River is a glass beehive that perches for inspection. Le Jardin des Abeilles is located at Ocana, Corsica, France.

>>Also Read: Is Corsica Expensive?

Step into Chapelle de Notre-Dame de la Serra

Plodding up the trail to this hilltop sanctuary looks over Calvi is worth every bit of visit. Once you reach the peak, take in the outstanding picturesque views of the town, the bay’s blue waters, and La Revaellata lighthouse. Perching on a massive rock is Our Lady of the Serra’s statue, the unmoving watchman whose open arms beckons every pilgrim who completes the island’s journey. As an intriguing aside, local folklore has it that bringing one’s significant other to the chapel will guarantee a lifetime of happiness.

>>Also Read: Most Beautiful Churches in France

S ee the Filitosa

In the mid-20th-century, excavations began at this enigmatic and terrific archaeological site. The group of  menhirs  and   dolmens are the highlight here. Dating back millions of years, depictions of weapons, human faces, and armor have been carved into the granite tiles. Located in an old olive grove, the location is believed to have been inhabited from prehistory to the Bronze Age. It is located at Station Préhistorique de Filitosa, Corsica.

>>Also Read: Weekend Trip To Bastia, Corsica

Attend the Polyphonic Song Festival  

Held since 1989 every year in Calvi, the island’s Polyphonic Festival attracts soloists and choristers from Corsica and different parts of the world to perform. The highlight of the polyphonic singing was restored in the 1970s and has since become a significant feature of the island’s regional identity.

Concerts take place in massive venues across Calvi, including Calvi’s citadel, the Saint-Antoine oratory, and the Cathedral St-Jean-Baptiste. The singers that come in their drove for the festival are of varying backgrounds and may hail from Cuban, South African, Bulgarian, or Maldivian cultures.

The Adrenaline Rush from Hiking on the GR20 Trail  

Advanced hikers and lovers of extreme sports will revere this trail. Corsica’s GR20 trail cuts through the island from north to south, reaching remote and wild hillsides and deep mountainsides. The trail is famous for being Europe’s most challenging long-distance hike. The trail is not only long, but its terrain is also steep and rocky. Those who can face the difficulty will be rewarded with breathtaking views.

Enjoy a Road Drive to Col de Bavella

If you are exploring Corsica by car, the scenic drive through this area should be tried. The road courses through the beautiful scenery and along an old Roman road, going further up to the mountain pass at 1243 m. From that end, there are marvelous panoramas of fields and forests, the sea, and the mountains.

Is Corsica Worth Visiting? – Summary

Beaches with beautiful sand and majestic coasts are perfect for diving, snorkeling, sailing, etc. The gorgeous mountains are also perfect for both extreme and amateur hiking. Ajaccio’s historic lure is irresistible, and Calvi’s architecture will blow your mind. Corsica is a majestic vibe you should definitely visit.

Also Read:  >> Things To Do in Porto Vecchio >> Watersports in Porto Vecchio

Peter is the editor of France Travel Blog. He has traveled to France many times and is ready to share the knowledge in this travel guide for France.

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Travel Guide To Corsica

A little over a century ago, Henri Matisse arrived on Corsica and got the shock of his life. Amazed at the clarity of the Mediterranean light, he later declared this was where his passion for colour began. Corsica, the 'Isle of Beauty', is only 180km long and 80km wide, but the contrasts are mesmerising. To appreciate the lure of Corsica fully, allow enough time to explore the far corners of the island, from the isolated northern fishing villages of Cap Corse to the beautiful sandy beaches near Porto-Veccio. You'll discover superb hotels, Michelin-starred restaurants and exhilarating watersports.

Where to stay in Corsica

Read our Misíncu Corsica review , Corsica's chicest new hotel for 2018.

AJACCIO HOTEL DOLCE VITA

This relaxed hotel has 32 rooms, which overlook the sea or pretty gardens, and a superb seafood restaurant. Feast on honeyed lobster fricassee on the beachfront terrace with an awe-inspiring vista of the Gulf and the red-granite Iles Sanguinaires at sunset. ££ Route des Sanguinaires, Ajaccio (00 33 4 95 52 42 42; hotel-dolcevita.com ).

HOTEL GENOVESE

The boutique Hotel Genovese has 17 clean-lined, minimalist rooms, 14 of which are located in the main building, the Coté Citadelle, a pale-pink villa perched on the cliffs in the heart of the old city, and three suites in the Coté Port which is down a steep hill on the port. The hotel's facilities, a stunning pool, a stylish restaurant set in a glass box, a charming garden terrace, and the reception are located in the main building. £ Quartier de la Citadelle, Haute Ville, Bonifacio (00 33 4 95 73 12 34; hotel-genovese.com ).

CALVI HOTEL LA VILLA

Elegant and beautifully furnished, this dusty-rose, modern villa (with a wide range of standard rooms, apartments and suites) is set on a hillside overlooking the bay. The hotel's L'Alivu restaurant is one of the most reputed gourmet spots on the island and offers romantic views of the illuminated 13th-century Citadel. Don't miss the four-wheel-drive outings to mountain villages and boat excursions to Girolata, organised by the hotel. Four pools and the beaches are just down the hill. Closed early 1 Nov to 31 March. ££ Chemin de Notre Dame de la Serra, Calvi (00 33 4 95 65 10 10; hotel-lavilla.com ).

AUBERGE RELAIS LA SIGNORIA

A charming hilltop country inn overlooking the valley with antique wooden furnishings set in warm ochres, almond green and pale blues. The restaurant serves wildly inventive, delicious regional food with home-grown ingredients. Highlights include lobster on a bed of warm onions with shredded ginger and vanilla; for dessert, a tagine of honeyed aubergine, fennel and tomatoes, topped with a scoop of Pietra chestnut beer sorbet. Closed 1 November to 31 March. ££ Route de la Forêt de Bonifato (00 33 4 95 65 93 00; hotel-la-signoria.com ).

PIANA HOTEL CAPO ROSSO

If you find that you can't tear yourself away from the fuchsia-and-lavender-streaked sunsets, the Capo Rosso, perched high on the cliff, offers the best accommodation in the area, with an unbeatable vista of the Gulf of Porto. Closed 15 October to 31 March. £ Route des Calanches, Piana (00 33 4 95 27 82 40; caporosso.com ).

PORTICCIO LE MAQUIS

This four-star hotel is an unusual mix of true-grit Corsican pioneering spirit and beachside luxury. The atmosphere is informal: an elegant jumble of antiques, family heirlooms, beamed ceilings, terracotta floors and whitewashed walls. All the rooms are different, but Suite 10, right on the private sandy beach is the best. There's also an outdoor and indoor pool (a former greenhouse lined with subtropical plants) and an excellent restaurant. Open all year. ££ Porticcio (00 33 4 95 25 05 55; lemaquis.com ).

PORTO-VECCHIO CASADELMAR

This stiking designer hotel in red cedar, glass and grey stone, overlooks the bay of Porto-Vecchio. The 34 rooms and suites are furnished with bright fabrics and all have terraces with bay views. Michelin-starred chef Davide Bisetto serves innovative Mediterranean dishes and service is exemplary. There is also a 25-metre infinity-edged pool, a small private beach, spa with hammam and helipad. £££ Route de Palombaggia, Porto-Vecchio (00 33 4 95 72 34 34; casadelmar.fr ).

LE BELVEDERE

An unpretentious, pink, seaside-villa hotel. The 15 rooms and four suites are simple, but it has a great beachside location, a huge, fossil-studded stone bar and extraordinary cuisine. Owner César Filippi offers a variety of menus, which may include red mullet with olives and almonds, grilled baby lamb in rosemary vinegar and strawberry tart with heavenly brocciu ice cream. Closed early January to mid March. £ Route de Palombaggia (00 33 4 95 70 54 13; hbcorisca.com ).

GRAND HOTEL DE CALA ROSSA

This is an elegant, Mediterranean-style, 45-room hideaway. Friendly service and first-rate accommodation, with a wooden sundeck at the water's edge for outdoor dining. The seafood is superb: this is one of the most reputable gourmet spots on the island. Closed early January to early-April. ££££ Porto-Vecchio (00 33 4 95 71 61 51; www.hotel-calarossa.com ).

PROPRIANO GRAND HOTEL MIRAMAR

This newly renovated hotel may look unimpressive from its modern exterior, but it is an oasis of personalised hospitality, with comfortable, Mediterranean-style modern rooms and terraces and a sweeping view of the Gulf of Valinco. The Mediterranean cuisine is refined, and can be served at the poolside. The sprawling blue-and-white tiled, Moorish-style suites are well worth the splurge. Closed 1 October to 7 May. ££ Route de la Corniche (00 33 4 95 76 06 13; miramarboutiquehotel.com).

SARTENE DOMAINE DE CROCCANO

Claudine and Christian Perrier offer a rustic hilltop 'bed and breakfast' facing the sea in their ancient granite house and the best horseback-riding excursions on the island. The copious homemade food and convivial atmosphere compensate for the no-frills accommodation. The Perriers also provide a walking tour, 'In the Trail of the Romantics', for literary enthusiasts. Open all year. £ Route de Granace, Sartène (00 33 4 95 77 11 37; corsenature.com ).

What to See

Fesch museum.

An impressive collection of Italian paintings including Bellinis and Botticellis. 50-52 rue cardinal Fesch, Ajaccio (00 33 4 95 21 48 17; musee-fesch.com ).

MAISON BONAPARTE

Napoleon's birthplace, a large and simple residence, is now a museum devoted to the Bonaparte family in Corsica. Rue Saint-Charles, Ajaccio (00 33 4 95 21 43 89; musees-nationaux-napoleoniens.org ).

MUSEE DE LA CORSE

This is the island's arts and archaeological museum, and is perched on a cliff in the revamped 15th-century citadel. Citadelle, Corte (00 33 4 95 45 25 45; musee-corse.com ).

TOWNS AND VILLAGES

This charming port has sombre, narrow streets, medieval houses and churches perched in the haute ville which teeters on a limestone ledge 200 feet above the sea. ( bonifacio.fr ).

The light in Calvi seems even more dazzling, the colours sharper and both the dusty-rose mini-palace La Villa and the charming hilltop country inn, Auberge Relais La Signoria, offer panoramic views of the 13th-century citadel and the lush valley. Using these points as stopovers, you can plan leisurely daytrips (horseback riding, fishing, golf or boat excursions, often arranged by the hotels), or simply collapse on a magnificent beach.

Home of the freedom fighter Pascal Paoli, Corte is now the site of the island's university and the huge, new Corsica museum.

FILITOSA AND PALAGGIU

The mysterious stone menhir civilisations at Filitosa (00 33 4 95 74 00 91; www.filitosa.fr ) and Palaggiu date back to 2500BC. Today, Filitosa is a lucrative tourist attraction very much on the beaten track, but the site, run by the Cesari family, was uncovered by chance. The dusty red path that leads to Palaggiu, near Tizzano, is more difficult to find. It is to the right off the D48, towards Tizzano (look for the Mosconi wine stand), and consists of a site of 258 sculpted granite megaliths from the Bronze Age.

PORTO-VECCHIO

This Genoese port surrounded by some of the island's best (and busiest) stretches of sand attracts a glitzy crowd.

How To Get There

Corsica has three airports: Bastia-Poretta ( bastia.aeroport.fr ) is loceated on the north-east coast; Ajaccio Campo dell'Oro Airport is located 5km from Ajaccio town on the north-west side of the island; and Figari Sud-Corse lies about 3km from Figari on the south coast.

AIRLINES FROM THE UK

EasyJet ( easyjet.com ) flies to Ajaccio Napoleon Bonaparte from London Gatwick, and to Bastia from Gatwick, Bristol and Manchester; Ryanair ( ryanair.com ) flies to Figari from London Stansted; Air France ( airfrance.co.uk ) flies to Ajaccio and Figaro via Paris from Heathrow and London City.

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Corsica Lovers

To awaken your senses in Corsica - Claire et Manu’s Blog

Visiting Corsica: our 35 travel tips

by Claire ROBINSON , Region Lovers | 9 July 2023 | no intrusive ads, no sponsored content, just some affiliate links - if you use them, we get a small commission (read more)

Visiting Corsica: paradisiacal beaches , surprising citadels , majestic mountains … the beauty of the landscapes of the island of Corsica offers you unforgettable holidays! But to make sure your trip to Corsica is a success , it’s best to have some information in mind and be well prepared. On this page, we have gathered all our travel tips to help you make the right choices and to find the trip that suits you: when, how, where…

Visiting Corsica: top 10 travel tips

Don’t want to read the whole article, want to get to the point? Here are our top 10 tips for a successful trip to Corsica:

• Book your flights, ferries, cars and hotels well in advance, especially if you are going in summer. Many French people come to the island for the school vacations, the places fill up quickly and the prices go up.
• Consider the ferry if you want to bring your car and there are more than 2 of you traveling – see ferry availability
• Consider flying if you live far from the Mediterranean (to reduce travel time) – compare flight prices
• If you rent a car , choose a car that is not too big and avoid low power cars because the roads are mountainous – see car offers
• Make sure you have a valid ID, even for the ferry.

• Don’ t over-plan each day. At each location you will want to explore and enjoy.
• Don’t limit yourself to the seaside, explore the magnificent Corsican mountains.
• Put on your hiking boots, it’s the best way to appreciate these wonderful landscapes.
• Take the time to listen to a concert of Corsican polyphonies . It’s a really powerful experience.
• Respect the locals, their culture and nature!

Clarification before continuing

Corsica is an absolutely beautiful destination, from the sharp peaks to the turquoise waters and white sand. But make no mistake, it is not for everyone. It is for nature lovers, who accept the winding roads due to the mountains (and the crowds if you go in summer). Its charm is undeniable but very different from other French regions. If you are looking for museums, castles and cities full of architectural wonders, choose another destination (the Loire , for example).

Tips 1 to 4 – How to travel to Corsica

1. where is corsica in which country how to get there.

Corsica is a French island in the Mediterranean Sea, nestled between France and Italy. The island is located in the north of Sardinia and is geographically closer to Italy than to France. Here is a map of Europe to help you visualize its position. You can get there either by plane or by ferry. There is no bridge or tunnel to reach the island.

2. How to get to Corsica by plane? What flights?

The island has 4 international airports: Bastia, Ajaccio, Figari and Calvi. Bastia and Calvi serve the north of Corsica, Figari and Ajaccio rather the south. The most important airport is Ajaccio, followed by Bastia.

The local company is called Air Corsica, but the island is also served by Air France, Transavia, Easyjets and other companies. There are flights from many major European cities. But if you start your trip outside of Europe, you will necessarily have a stopover.

The duration of the flights are:

• from Paris = less than 2 hours
• from London = 2h30 (if direct)
• from Rome = 1h

Discover flight options on Skyscanner

And learn more in our article on how to get to Corsica .

3. Which ferry to Corsica

If you really want to come with your car, you can take a ferry from Italy or France (Nice or Marseille or Toulon).

• You can arrive in Ajaccio, Bastia, Propriano, Porto-Vecchio or Ile-Rousse
• Departures are from several ports in France and Italy
• The 3 departure ports in France are Nice (5 to 10 hours), Marseille (11 to 12 hours) or Toulon (5 to 10 hours)
• Le plus court trajet depuis la France est entre Nice et l’Ile Rousse (5h45)
• The shortest distance from Italy is between Piombino and Bastia (2h45)
• None of the 4 companies stood out as the “Best”. But the one with the most options is Corsica Ferries.

If you go during the high season, it is advisable to book your ferry ticket well in advance, to have availability and the best prices.

See ferry schedules and availability

And find out more in our article about the ferry crossing to Corsica .

4. Visa and identity papers for Corsica

Corsica is part of France, and is therefore in the Schengen area. If you are one of them, you don’t need a visa. Otherwise, you need a Schengen Visa.

For all of them, you must have a valid identity document to circulate on the territory, and also to take the plane or the ferry.

Note for the French: the validity of the identity card has been extended from 10 to 15 years. Therefore, cards that have been expired for less than 5 years are admissible.

OUR TIPS FOR RENTING A CAR IN Corsica

• Compare prices on our preferred platform: DiscoverCars – one of the best rated sites.
• Choose a car that is powerful enough (the roads are steep) but compact (some passages are narrow).
• Think of the complete insurance (some roads are tortuous and narrow).
• There is a lot of demand, book it early .

6. What is the size of Corsica?

Corsica is much larger than many people imagine. Maximum: 183km from North to South and 83km wide. It is the 4th most important island in the Mediterranean Sea.

But most importantly, it has high mountains. Its geography makes it much longer to get around the island. It takes 4 hours to drive from north to south on the main road (but much longer on the beautiful west coast) It takes at least 2 hours to cross from east to west.

Here is a map to help you visualize these movements:

7. How long to stay in Corsica

Of course, you can focus on one area and visit it in depth. Each region can deserve 3 weeks of vacation… But, if you want to see a bit of each region, here are our estimates for a road trip on the whole island. Please note that these times do not include full days spent on the beach:

• Bastia and the Cap Corse – 2 to 4 days
• Calvi and Balagne – 2 to 5 days
• Piana and the central west – 2 to 5 days
• Corte and Upper Corsica – 2 to 5 days
• Bonifacio and South Corsica – 3 to 5 days
• Ajaccio and the South-West – 3 to 5 days

8. How long to go around Corsica

Don’t try to do the whole tour of Corsica in a road trip if you have less than 2 weeks. Even with two weeks, diligence would be required to focus on only certain locations in each region to make it work. 3 weeks is much more comfortable.

9. Always allow more time than the GPS suggests

Your travel time will be extended for 2 main reasons:

With the mountains, the roads are limited (and not highways). Therefore, as soon as there are a few people, the traffic slows down. If you plan in February but leave in August, the travel times can be very different.

Then, the landscapes are magnificent, we want to stop everywhere, to make detours to see beaches, to walk a little further to see the view on the other side…

Don’t plan too much each day!

10. Dates to choose or to avoid

Depending on what you are looking for, there are some competitions and festivals to consider that may derail your plans. Either you want to include them in your trip or you want to avoid them so you don’t get stuck in the middle of your plans. For example:

• February: Italian film festival in Bastia
• Easter processions all over the island
• march/april: Ajaccio marathon
• June: Corsica-Raid in June – infos
• June: Jazz Festival in Ajaccio
• July: sometimes the Tour de France passes through Corsica! And it cuts the roads a lot!
• July: Calvi on the Rocks in July
• July 14 is the French national holiday
• August 15, public holiday in France and big party in Ajaccio for Napoleon Bonaparte’s birthday
• September: Polyphonic Song Meetings in the citadel of Calvi
• october: Tour de Corse historique, classic car rally – infos
• October: Porto-Vecchio marathon
• and also many days dedicated to Corsican specialties in different towns and villages

11. If you are going in the summer, adapt to the crowds

If you don’t have a choice of dates and you go in summer, understand that it is very crowded in Corsica at that time. The most famous beaches are taken by storm, the parking lots are full and the roads are clogged. You can still enjoy it but you have to know it and adapt your program: find less known places, get up earlier to enjoy the beaches before the crowds (and before the storms), schedule less places to see in your day.

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Tips 12 to 14 – Holiday budget in Corsica – how to reduce prices

12. price and budget.

Corsica has a certain cost.

• Many products are more expensive on the island than in mainland France
• As demand is higher in summer, prices for car rentals, flights and hotels are higher.

Your budget will vary greatly depending on how you want to travel: sleeping in a campsite, sleeping in a rental or doing a road trip by changing hotels regularly… eating in a restaurant or making your own food… It is therefore very difficult to give an average budget…

Here are a few numbers to consider:

• In August: 2500 euros for 2 people, for a week with a flight from Paris and accommodation in a 2/3 star hotel
• In low season: 1700 to 2000 euros for 2 people, for a week with a flight from Paris and accommodation in a 2/3 star hotel

13. Reduce the biggest expenses: compare and book in advance

The largest items in the budget are:

• Transportation to Corsica
• Travel once in Corsica (if you don’t have your own car)

In any case, the best ways to reduce costs are to compare prices on comparison sites and to book well in advance (6 to 9 months). Our favorite comparators are:

• Car rental: compare prices on Discovercars (they often have great deals!)
• Plane: compare prices on Skyscanner
• Compare Directferries prices
• Hotels: compare accommodations on Booking

14. Choose free activities

The advantage of Corsica is that you can get busy for free in :

• Choosing beaches (where parking is not charged)
• Visiting villages

The landscapes are so beautiful that there is no need to plan more if you don’t have the budget. If you have some, we suggest you choose from the following activities:

• Boat trip around Bonifacio
• Boat to the Lavezzi Islands
• Boat to the calanques of Piana and the Scandola reserve – see
• Boat to the Bloody Islands – see
• Desert of Agriates in 4×4 – see

Tips 15 to 17 – How to travel around Corsica

15. how to get around the island.

Corsica by car It remains the most practical option for exploring Corsica. If you want to discover small corners of paradise, you will need a vehicle, because public transport goes mostly in the cities and villages. You can come with your own car by ferry or rent one on the spot (see next tip).

Corsica by motorcycle Corsica is a paradise for bikers with roads that make them dream, winding and with great landscapes.

Corsica by motorhome The motorhome is not the most recommended option for Corsica, unless you arrive by ferry directly to your destination and land your vehicle. Many roads are winding and narrow. Some places are feasible but you need to know your vehicle well and do a lot of research before the trip.

Corsica by train and bus Some cities are connected by trains and buses. If you have time to adapt to their schedules, the network allows you to discover several cities of the island: Ajaccio, Corte, Bastia, Calvi, Ile-Rousse…

Excursions from a main city Another option is to land in one of the big cities and take organized tours to explore the area. Ajaccio is the city with the most options See the tours

16. How to rent a car in Corsica

You will find all international brands at the major airports and ferry terminals. Our main tips are:

• Choose a car that is not too big so that you are more comfortable in the narrower sections of the roads
• Choose a car with a good engine to drive more comfortably in the mountains
• Book early if you want an automatic car (there are few in France)
• You don’t really need a 4×4, especially since most companies won’t allow you to drive off-road even with a 4×4 for insurance reasons
• Compare prices on Discovercars.com – our preferred platform. It is one of the best rated sites by its customers!
• Book early to have a choice of your vehicle!

Learn more in our article with all our tips for renting a car in Corsica .

17. Don’t be afraid to drive

Many people are afraid to drive in Corsica, so let’s be clear:

Yes, the roads are winding and they are sometimes narrow. This is not the easiest region to drive in, when the mountains plunge into the sea! But Only people who have had problems write on the Internet. The millions of people who have not had any problems, do not take the time to go on the forums and say that everything went well in terms of driving… Most of the roads are not really difficult. There are just a few places where they are narrow. In this case, slow down well and take your time.

Learn more in our article with all our tips for driving in Corsica . And here is our video:

Tips 18 to 22 – Where to go in Corsica, best things to do

18. choose one of the best destinations.

All the corners of Corsica are beautiful. You can’t go wrong. Your trip to Corsica will be successful. But, if you want to know everything, our 3 favorite destinations are:

• Bonifacio for the citadel, the impressive cliffs and the beaches around
• Calvi, Ile-Rousse and Balagne for the charm of the towns and villages, as well as the beaches and rock formations
• Saint-Florent for the variety of landscapes between semi-desert, mountains, white sand beaches…

Learn more in our article with our 9 favorite destinations in Corsica .

19. Or plan a road trip

But if that’s your style, Corsica is an ideal destination for a road trip. You can go around to discover the most beautiful corners of the island. If you choose this option we think the must stops are

• The beaches of the South
• The calanques de Piana
• Calvi and the Balagne
• L’Île-Rousse
• The Agriates desert

USE OUR GUIDE TO PLAN A DREAM TRIP TO Corsica

All the information you need for your trip:

• 7 maps that make planning easier
• 130+ pre-selected locations
• Practical advice
• + 220 photos to help you choose

20. Explore the towns and villages

Looking for the most beautiful cities and villages? It is not the richest region of France in terms of architecture but with the surrounding landscapes, some villages and towns have a lot of charm. In cities, we particularly like:

• Bonifacio and its citadel at the edge of the cliffs
• City of Calvi and its citadel on a peninsula
• L’Île-Rousse for its relaxed atmosphere and its colored islands
• Saint-Florent surrounded by desert and mountains
• Sartene and its historical atmosphere

For the villages, our favorites are:

• Pigna with its charming alleys, in Balagne
• Speloncato , to have the impression to travel in time in Balagne
• Evisa, as if suspended among the pink peaks
• Nonza overlooking its black beach

Learn more in our articles with the most beautiful villages of Corsica and the most beautiful cities of Corsica .

21. Discover the most beautiful beaches of Corsica

And if you wish to discover the most beautiful beaches of Corsica, there is plenty to do. The most famous are in South Corsica between Bonifacio and Porto-Vecchio but there are some very beautiful ones all around Corsica. Our favorites include:

• the Beach of Ostriconi (North)
• the beach of Tamaricciu (South)
• the beach of Palombaggia (South)
• the beach of San Giovanni (South)
• the beach of Saleccia (North)
• Punta di Spanu , a cove rather than a beach (North)

Learn more in our article with the most beautiful beaches of Corsica .

22. Enjoy the most beautiful hikes

Corsica is a paradise for hiking. Whether you’re in the mountains or on the water, you have a wide range of choices for walks of varying difficulty. We particularly like it:

• Capo Rosso, above the calanques of Piana
• the famous GR20 which crosses Corsica
• the customs path at the level of the Cap Corse
• the Restonica valley surrounded by mountainous peaks, towards the Lake of Melo and the Lake of Capitello
• the walk in the forest towards the Cascade des Anglais
• the customs path in the Agriates desert

23. Don’t over-plan each day

Corsica is a beautiful island. It is famous for its beaches, its mountains, its villages… it has a lot to offer and a great variety of points of interest. You may want to stop at viewpoints, take back roads to explore hidden areas, or simply stay longer in a village or on a beach because it is spectacular. So be sure to be reasonable in your planning!

See our itinerary suggestions:

• 3 days in Corsica
• 4 or 5 days in Corsica
• coming soon: 1 week, 10 days and 15 days

24 to 28 – Where to stay in Corsica

24. one or more units.

Unlike other Mediterranean islands such as Mallorca, it is not possible to explore the entire island based on a single location.

Either you choose a single accommodation and explore a single region. Each region has a lot to offer. Either you go on a road trip. Or you can do a mix of both.

For example with 2 weeks you could:

• you 5 days in South Corsica
• go up the west coast with 2 nights in Ajaccio and 2 nights in Piana
• then 5 days in the North, in Saint-Florent for example

It all depends on what you are looking for during your vacation.

25. Is it necessary to stay in Ajaccio?

Ajaccio is the main city of Corsica. It has many assets:

• choice of restaurants
• access to islands
• beautiful beaches less than 30 minutes away
• waterfalls and mountains less than 1 hour away
• plenty of organized tours

But it’s not really a must-see city. The city does not have an architectural marvel that is a must-see. And not all of the most famous places in Corsica can be visited on an excursion from this city. If you prefer nature to cities, we advise you not to stay in Ajaccio.

But if you want to discover more about Napoleon, Corsican art or Corsican gastronomy, plan at least one stop in Ajaccio.

26. Where to stay in Corsica?

Our favorite places to stay were:

• The citadel of Bonifacio: the place is exceptional and the cliffs change color with the setting sun! – see the options
• L’Île-Rousse: the rocks of the islands turn red-orange at sunset – see options
• Saint-Florent (or Patrimonio, next door, in the heart of the vineyards): easy access to various landscapes and attractions – see options

In terms of hotels, see our dedicated articles with our reviews of many hotels:

• The most beautiful hotels in Corsica (charming)
• Luxury hotels in Corsica
• Where to sleep in Porto-Vecchio
• Where to sleep Bonifacio
• Where to sleep in Propriano / Sartène
• Where to stay in Ajaccio
• Where to sleep in Piana
• Where to stay in Calvi
• Where to stay in L’Île-Rousse
• Where to stay in Saint-Florent
• Where to sleep in Bastia

More tips in our article: where to stay in Corsica / South Corsica .

27. Choosing your home wisely: what to look out for

The accommodation offer on the island of Corsica is really impressive. You can find every type of accommodation imaginable. When making your choice, don’t forget to check the following aspects:

• Book early, especially for a trip to Corsica in summer. Do your research
• Parking – if you are staying in a city, the parking lots may be paid for. This should be taken into consideration in your budget or you should choose an accommodation with parking
• In France, air conditioning is not systematic, far from it. But it can be very hot in Corsica. If it is essential for you, check the conditions before booking
• Accommodations near the beach are rarely on the beach. There are only a few and they are not the best. The best accommodations are often within 5 minutes walk of the beach.
• The pools are not always heated, depending on the hotel.

28. Use a VPN

Do not make the same mistake we made.

On one of our last trips to Europe, a hacker stole our credit card details while we were using a hotel WiFi. So our trip began with a “card blocked” call … Not funny at all! Learn from our mistake, make a small VPN investment to surf without worry .

Tips 29 to 32 – What to bring: packing for Corsica

29. what to wear in corsica.

Classic clothes. There is nothing special to think about. It also depends on your activities And don’t forget:

• Clothing for rain and for colder nights in the evening and in the mountains
• Hiking shoes

30. Protect yourself from the sun

Beware, the sun can be brutal. Don’t take any chances, protect yourself with sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses.

31. Carrying cash

Most places accept credit cards on the island. However, there are a few instances where you will need cash:

• Some places to visit (both on and off the beaten track)
• To pay for certain parking areas

32. Power strip and adapter

We travel with more and more electronic devices. Being able to recharge them is essential. In France, and therefore in Corsica, the plugs are 2 round holes (Type E which also work with a type C). If it doesn’t match yours, consider bringing a plug adapter. And we advise you to travel with a power strip because there is not always enough for the whole family, or the plugs are not well placed.

Tips 33 to 37 – Corsica travel tips: good to know for an unforgettable experience

33. be respectful of people and the environment.

The Corsicans have a strong character. And we love them for it. Remember that you are guests on this island. Be respectful towards Corsicans and their culture. Take the time to talk. The Corsicans are very welcoming. Also be sure to preserve the beautiful nature of this island. “Take only memories, Leave only footprints” – Chief Seattle.

34. Learn some words in the Corsican language

Knowing a few words in the local language is always appreciated. The official language is French but Corsicans are very proud of their local language and many people still speak it.

French – Corsica :

• Hello = Salute
• Goodbye = Avvedeci
• Please = Per piace
• Thanks to you = To ringraziavvi
• Excuse me = Scusatemi

35. Food – what to eat in Corsica

Visiting Corsica also means tasting its culinary specialties. Here are some products and recipes of Corsica not to be missed:

• the delicatessen: salty and tasty, it is strong in taste and will not leave you indifferent. Coppa, lonzu, figatellu, prisuttu, wild boar sausage… the choice is endless!
• cheese: they also have a lot of taste. The local cheeses are mainly made from goat or sheep milk. Bruccio is one of the most famous.
• mussels and oysters from the Diana pond
• the wines of Corsica with a particular soil made of sun and mountains
• canistrellis, dry cookies for those who are looking for something sweet
• the Corsican chestnut, used in many recipes including the Pietra, a beer flavored with chestnut.

36. Listen to Corsican singers

Polyphonies: an experience not to be missed in Corsica. These are singing experiences where only the voices come together to produce music. In Corsica, the typical groups are only male voices. They sing in perfect harmony, mainly in Corsican language. They are very powerful and carry deep emotions. Even when you don’t understand the words, you feel the song. There are regular performances almost everywhere, often in churches. Just look for small signs attached along the roads. For example, we had the chance to listen to I Campagnoli in a small church in Bonifacio!

37. What are the best activities to do in Corsica

In addition to beaches and hiking, Corsica is a beautiful destination for:

• canyoning with more than 100 sites, but about ten are the most famous – see options
• the GR20, more than just hiking
• scuba diving – see options
• via ferrata – see options
• climbing and bouldering
• ATV – see options
• kayaking – see options
• coastering also arrives in Corsica

38. What to do in an emergency

The emergency number is 112 (and also the classic numbers for the French).

Travelling to Corsica: FAQs

Is the tap water drinkable in corsica.

Thanks to its beautiful mountains, Corsica’s water is good and even excellent in some places. Tap water is safe to drink unless otherwise indicated.

Is it necessary to give a tip in Corsica?

As everywhere in France, the service is always included in the restaurant. The bill is given to you at the end of the meal. Tipping is not mandatory. If you are very satisfied with the service, you can leave a tip of a few euros (but not 20% like our American friends).

Is Corsica safe?

On the whole, Corsica is quite safe. No particular scam to mention. Pay attention to :

• The heat, especially if you hike on paths without shade
• Pickpockets in the cities (as in all tourist cities…)
• Summer forest fires – follow the rules
• Do not swim alone – many beaches are not supervised
• Jellyfish that can sometimes get close to certain beaches
• Don’t leave valuable personal belongings in plain sight in the car (like everywhere)

Why travel to Corsica:

Corsica is a unique and colorful place. There are many reasons to visit Corsica:

• its mountains of more than 2500m high which plunge into the sea
• its beaches with white sand and turquoise waters
• rock formations of all colors
• its citadels and its eventful history
• its gastronomy with Mediterranean influences
• its cultural heritage so specific with its language and songs full of emotions

Why is Corsica known?

Corsica is a little less known than other islands of the Mediterranean, but, apart from its extraordinary nature, its most famous elements are:

• Ajaccio is the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte
• The GR20 hike crosses the island and is one of the most beautiful in the world.
• Its geography with the second highest peak in the Mediterranean (Mount Cinto)
• The Gulf of Porto with the calanques of Piana, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Is Corsica a volcanic island?

Yes, Corsica is an island of volcanic origin. We see it particularly with the volcanic rocks of the reserve of Scandola. But they date back 150 million years, the volcanoes are no longer active.

Which is the most beautiful corner: the north or the south of Corsica?

The 2 regions are beautiful. The north has beautiful beaches, but in terms of number of heavenly beaches, the south wins. On the other hand, the northern towns and villages have more charm, in our opinion. It’s really hard to choose. See a more detailed comparison in this article (coming soon).

Are there mosquitoes in Corsica.

There are no more mosquitoes in Corsica than in the south of France or the other Mediterranean islands. As everywhere, bring a repellent for the evening, especially if you stay near a lake.

Are there snakes in Corsica

There are no animals considered dangerous in Corsica. There are very few snakes and they are not poisonous.

Is Corsica better than Sardinia?

Neither more nor less beautiful. Just different. Corsica is 3 times smaller than Sardinia and much more mountainous.

What is the time zone of Corsica

Corsica is at the same time as Paris i.e. GMT+1.

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I would give this 6 stars if the ratings went that high! This really was one of the highlights of our vacation. Due to scheduling issues, we ended up with ...

More than three million people visit Corsica each year, drawn by the mild climate and some of the most diverse landscapes in all Europe. Nowhere in the Mediterranean has beaches finer than the island’s perfect half-moon bays of white sand and transparent water, or seascapes more dramatic than the red porphyry Calanches of the west coast. Even though the annual visitor influx now exceeds the island’s population nearly ten times over, tourism hasn’t spoilt the place: there are a few resorts, but overdevelopment is rare and high-rise blocks are confined to the main towns.

Ajaccio (Aiacciu)

The balagne (a balagna), bonifacio (bonifaziu) and around, things to do in bonifacio, central corsica, corte (corti), corsican food and drink, napoleon and corsica, the nebbio (u nebbiu), porto (portu) and around, porto-vecchio, sartène (sartè) and around, the réserve naturel de scandola.

Bastia , capital of the north, was the principal Genoese stronghold, and its fifteenth-century citadelle has survived almost intact. It’s first and foremost a Corsican city, and commerce rather than tourism is its main concern. Also relatively undisturbed, the northern Cap Corse harbours inviting sandy coves and fishing villages such as Macinaggio and Centuri-Port . Within a short distance of Bastia, the fertile region of the Nebbio contains a scattering of churches built by Pisan stoneworkers, the prime example being the Cathédral de Santa Maria Assunta at the appealingly chic little port of St-Florent .

To the west of here, L’Île-Rousse and Calvi , the latter graced with an impressive citadelle and fabulous sandy beach, are major targets for holiday-makers. The spectacular Scandola nature reserve to the southwest of Calvi is most easily visited by boat from the tiny resort of Porto , from where walkers can also strike out into the wild Gorges de Spelunca . Corte , at the heart of Corsica, is the best base for exploring the mountains and gorges of the interior which form part of the Parc Naturel Régional that runs almost the entire length of the island.

Sandy beaches and rocky headlands punctuate the west coast all the way down to Ajaccio , Napoleon’s birthplace and the island’s capital, where pavement cafés and palm-lined boulevards teem with tourists in summer. Slightly fewer make it to nearby Filitosa , greatest of the many prehistoric sites scattered across the south. Propriano , the area’s principal resort, lies close to stern Sartène , former seat of the wild feudal lords who once ruled this region and still the quintessential Corsican town.

More megalithic sites lie south of Sartène on the way to Bonifacio , a comb of ancient buildings perched atop furrowed white cliffs at the southern tip of the island. Equally popular, Porto-Vecchio provides a springboard for excursions to the amazing beaches of the south. The eastern plain has less to boast of, but the Roman site at Aléria is worth a visit for its excellent museum.

Rough Guides tip: Find out which season works best for you in our guide to the best time to travel in France .

Travel ideas for France, created by local experts

An active walking tour out of the way in France

Your trip starts with an in-depth introduction to France in Paris: several unique day excursions connect you with local Parisians to show you their city and way of life. Afterwards continue south to start a few days walking journey through Southern France before ending around Avignon.

Southern France – Walks in the Alpilles and Lavender fields

Start your tour in the coastal city of Marseille, exploring Cassis on the way. Around the Alpilles in Provence, you will be provided with detailed walking materials to explore the area on foot, from both Les Baux and St Remy. End your tour in famous Avignon.

Tasting Eastern France

A delicious yet active journey through Eastern France. Start your trip in Lyon with some unique food tours before setting off on a 4-day walk across the Beaujolais region. Almost every day ends with a wine tasting in your guesthouse, soothing for body and soul.

Taste of Three - Belgium, France and Switzerland

Start your journey in Belgium and explore Brussels, Ghent and Bruges. A high-speed train will then take you to Strasbourg, from where you'll discover the Alsace. Proceed to Basel as your base, from where you'll see plenty of Switzerland: Zermatt, Matterhorn, Mount Pilatus and much more.

Brief history

Set on the western Mediterranean trade routes, Corsica has always been of strategic and commercial appeal. Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans came in successive waves, driving native Corsicans into the interior. The Romans were ousted by Vandals, and for the following thirteen centuries the island was attacked, abandoned, settled and sold as a nation state, with generations of islanders fighting against foreign government. In 1768 France bought Corsica from Genoa, but nearly two-and-half centuries of French rule have had a limited effect and the island’s Baroque churches, Genoese fortresses, fervent Catholic rituals and a Tuscan-influenced indigenous language and cuisine show a more profound affinity with Italy.

Corsica’s uneasy relationship with the mainland has worsened in recent decades. Economic neglect and the French government’s reluctance to encourage Corsican language and culture spawned a nationalist movement in the early 1970s, whose clandestine armed wing – the FLNC (Fronte di Liberazione Nazionale di a Corsica) – and its various offshoots were until recently engaged in a bloody conflict with the state.

Relations between the island’s hardline nationalists and Paris may be perennially fraught, but there’s little support among ordinary islanders for total independence. Bankrolled by Paris and Brussels, Corsica is the most heavily subsidized region of France. Moreover, Corsicans are exempt from social security contributions and the island as a whole enjoys preferential tax status, with one-third of the permanent population employed in the public sector.

Opinion, however, remains divided on the best way forward for the island. While centre-right parties push for an all-out promotion of tourism as a socio-economic cure-all, local nationalist groups resist large-scale development, claiming it will irrevocably damage the pristine environment visitors come to enjoy. Meanwhile, bombings of second homes – a feature of island life since the 1980s – has given way to a marked increase in assassinations and counter killings, most of them linked to organized crime and corruption rather than feuds between nationalist factions, as in the past. Corsica now suffers the highest per capita murder rate of any European region – a statistic attributed by locals to the failure of the French government to address ingrained social and economic problems, but which has roots deep in the island’s cultural DNA.

The extent to which violence is nowadays a symptom of mob influence rather than part of the liberation struggle was dramatically underlined in June 2014, when the FLNC announced a definitive end to its armed conflict with the French state. The announcement came in the wake of a particularly bloody period for the island, during which several prominent figures, including politicians, lawyers and civil servants, were gunned down.

Corsica’s troubled underbelly, however, is largely invisible to visitors. Political graffiti and bullet-scarred signposts, which used to be ubiquitous, are fast becoming a thing of the past, while the drive-by shootings and mafia assassinations which dominate the local press tend to occur well away from the resorts.

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Edward Lear claimed that on a wet day it would be hard to find so dull a place as Ajaccio , a harsh judgement with an element of justice. The town has none of Bastia’s sense of purpose and can seem to lack a definitive identity of its own, but it is a relaxed and good-looking place, with an exceptionally mild climate, and a wealth of smart cafés, restaurants and shops.

Although it’s an attractive idea that Ajax, hero of the Trojan War, once stopped here, the name of Ajaccio actually derives from the Roman Adjaccium (place of rest), a winter stop-off point for shepherds descending from the mountains to stock up on goods and sell their produce. This first settlement was destroyed by the Saracens in the tenth century, and modern Ajaccio grew up around the citadelle founded in 1492. Napoleon gave the town international fame, but though the self-designated Cité Impériale is littered with statues and street names related to the Bonaparte family, you’ll find that the Napoleonic cult has a less dedicated following here than you might imagine: the emperor is still considered by many Ajacciens as a self-serving Frenchman rather than as a Corsican.

Since the early 1980s, Ajaccio has gained an unwelcome reputation for nationalist violence. The most infamous terrorist atrocity of recent decades was the murder, in February 1998, of the French government’s most senior official on the island, Claude Erignac, who was gunned down as he left the opera. However, separatist violence rarely (if ever) affects tourists here, and for visitors Ajaccio remains memorable for the things that have long made it attractive – its battered old town, relaxing cafés and the encompassing view of its glorious bay.

The core of the old town – a cluster of ancient streets spreading north and south of place Foch , which opens out to the seafront by the port and the marina – holds the most interest. Nearby, to the west, place de Gaulle forms the modern centre and is the source of the main thoroughfare, cours Napoléon , which extends parallel to the sea almost 2km to the northeast. West of place de Gaulle stretches the modern part of town fronted by the beach , overlooked at its eastern end by the citadelle.

Built on the estuary at the mouth of the River Tavignano on the island’s east coast, 40km southeast of Corte along the N200, Aléria was first settled in 564 BC by a colony of Greek Phocaeans as a trading port for copper and lead, as well as wheat, olives and grapes. After an interlude of Carthaginian rule, the Romans arrived in 259 BC, built a naval base and re-established its importance in the Mediterranean. Aléria remained the east coast’s principal port right up until the eighteenth century. Little is left of the historic town except Roman ruins and a thirteenth-century Genoese fortress, which stands high against a background of chequered fields and green vineyards. To the south, a strip of modern buildings straddling the main road makes up the modern town, known as Cateraggio , but it’s the village set on the hilltop just west of here that’s the principal focus for visitors.

The Balagne , the region stretching west from the Ostriconi valley as far as the red-cliffed wilderness of Scandola, has been renowned since Roman times as “Le Pays de l’Huile et Froment” (Land of Oil and Wheat). Backed by a wall of imposing, pale grey mountains, the characteristic outcrops of orange granite punctuating its spectacular coastline shelter a string of idyllic beaches, many of them sporting ritzy marinas and holiday complexes. These, along with the region’s two honeypot towns, L’Île Rousse and Calvi , get swamped in summer, but the scenery more than compensates. In any case, Calvi, with its cream-coloured citadelle, breathtaking white-sand bay and mountainous backdrop, should not be missed.

Seen from the water, Calvi is a beautiful spectacle, with its three immense bastions topped by a crest of ochre buildings, sharply defined against a hazy backdrop of mountains. Located twenty kilometres west along the coast from L’Île Rousse, the town began as a fishing port on the site of the present-day ville basse below the citadelle, and remained just a cluster of houses and fishing shacks until the Pisans conquered the island in the tenth century. Not until the arrival of the Genoese, however, did the town become a stronghold when, in 1268, Giovaninello de Loreto, a Corsican nobleman, built a huge citadelle on the windswept rock overlooking the port and named it Calvi. A fleet commanded by Nelson launched a brutal two-month attack on the town in 1794; he left saying he hoped never to see the place again, and very nearly didn’t see anywhere else again, having sustained the wound that cost him his sight in one eye.

The French concentrated on developing Ajaccio and Bastia during the nineteenth century, and Calvi became primarily a military base. A hangout for European glitterati in the 1950s, the town these days has the ambience of a slightly kitsch Côte d’Azur resort, whose glamorous marina, souvenir shops and fussy boutiques jar with the down-to-earth villages of its rural hinterland. It’s also an important base for the French Foreign Legion’s parachute regiment, the 2e REP, and immaculately uniformed legionnaires are a common sight around the bars lining avenue de la République.

Social life in Calvi focuses on the restaurants and cafés of the quai Landry , a spacious seafront walkway linking the marina and the port. This is the best place to get the feel of the town, but the majority of Calvi’s sights are found within the walls of the citadelle.

Calvi beach

Calvi’s beach sweeps round the bay from the end of quai Landry, but most of the first kilometre or so is owned by bars which rent out sunloungers for a hefty price. To avoid these, follow the track behind the sand, which will bring you to the start of a more secluded stretch. The sea might not be as sparklingly clear as at many other Corsican beaches, but it’s warm, shallow and free of rocks.

The citadelle

“Civitas Calvis Semper Fidelis” – always faithful – reads the inscription of the town’s motto, carved over the ancient gateway into the fortress. The best way of seeing the citadelle is to follow the ramparts connecting the three immense bastions, the views from which extend out to sea and inland to Monte Cinto. Within the walls the houses are tightly packed along tortuous stairways and narrow passages that converge on the place d’Armes. Dominating the square is the Cathédrale St-Jean-Baptiste , set at the highest point of the promontory. This chunky ochre edifice was founded in the thirteenth century, but was partly destroyed during the Turkish siege of 1553 and then suffered extensive damage twelve years later, when the powder magazine in the governor’s palace exploded. It was rebuilt in the form of a Greek cross. The church’s great treasure is the Christ des Miracles , which is housed in the chapel on the right of the choir; this crucifix was brandished at marauding Turks during the 1553 siege, an act which reputedly saved the day.

L’Île Rousse

Developed by Pascal Paoli in the 1760s as a “gallows to hang Calvi”, the port of L’Île Rousse (Isula Rossa) simply doesn’t convince as a Corsican town, its palm trees, smart shops, neat flower gardens and colossal pink seafront hotel creating an atmosphere that has more in common with the French Riviera. Pascal Paoli had great plans for his new town on the Haute-Balagne coast, which was laid out from scratch in 1758 as a port to export the olive oil produced in the region. A large part of it was built on a grid system, quite at odds with the higgledy-piggledy nature of most Corsican villages and towns. Thanks to the busy trading of wine and oil, it soon began to prosper and, two and a half centuries later, still thrives as a successful port. These days, however, the main traffic consists of holiday-makers, lured here by brochure shots of the nearby beaches. This is officially the hottest corner of the island, and the town is deluged by sun-worshippers in July and August. Given the proximity of Calvi, and so much unspoilt countryside, it’s hard to see why you should want to stop here for longer than it takes to have lunch or a coffee on the square.

The dominant tone of Corsica’s most successful commercial town, Bastia , is one of charismatic dereliction, as the city’s industrial zone is spread onto the lowlands to the south, leaving the centre of town with plenty of aged charm. The old quarter, known as the Terra Vecchia, comprises a tightly packed network of haphazard streets, flamboyant Baroque churches and lofty tenements, their crumbling golden-grey walls set against a backdrop of maquis-covered hills.

The city dates from Roman times, when a base was set up at Biguglia to the south, beside a freshwater lagoon. Little remains of the former colony, but the site merits a day-trip for the well-preserved pair of Pisan churches at Mariana, rising from the southern fringes of Poretta airport. Bastia began to thrive under the Genoese, when wine was exported to the Italian mainland from Porto Cardo, forerunner of Bastia’s Vieux Port, or Terra Vecchia. Despite the fact that in 1811 Napoleon appointed Ajaccio capital of the island, initiating a rivalry between the two towns which exists to this day, Bastia soon established a stronger trading position with mainland France. The Nouveau Port, created in 1862 to cope with the increasing traffic with France and Italy, became the mainstay of the local economy, exporting chiefly agricultural products from Cap Corse, Balagne and the eastern plain.

The centre of Bastia is not especially large, and all its sights can easily be seen in a day without the use of a car. The spacious place St-Nicolas is the obvious place to get your bearings: open to the sea and lined with shady trees and cafés, it’s the main focus of town life. Running parallel to it on the landward side are boulevard Paoli and rue César-Campinchi, the two main shopping streets, but all Bastia’s historic sights lie within Terra Vecchia , the old quarter immediately south of place St-Nicolas, and Terra Nova , the area surrounding the citadelle. Tucked away below the imposing, honey-coloured bastion is the much-photographed Vieux Port , with its boat-choked marina encircled by crumbling eighteenth-century tenement buildings.

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Bonifacio enjoys a superbly isolated location at Corsica’s southernmost point, a narrow peninsula of dazzling white limestone creating a townsite unlike any other. The much-photographed haute ville , a maze of narrow streets flanked by tall Genoese tenements, rises seamlessly out of sheer cliffs that have been hollowed and striated by the wind and waves, while on the landward side the deep cleft between the peninsula and the mainland forms a perfect natural harbour.

A haven for boats for centuries, this inlet is nowadays a chic marina that attracts yachts from around the Med. Its geography has long enabled Bonifacio to maintain a certain temperamental detachment from the rest of Corsica, and the town today remains distinctly more Italian than French in the atmosphere. It retains Renaissance features found only here, and its inhabitants have their own dialect based on Ligurian, a legacy of the days when this was practically an independent Genoese colony.

Bonifacio port and old town © Pawel Kazmierczak / Shutterstock

Bonifacio's charming marina and beautiful waters make it no surprise that the best things to do in the area involve boats and beaches. However, the old town forms one of the most arresting spectacles in the Mediterranean, and warrants at least a day-trip. If you plan to come in peak season, try to get here early in the day before the bus parties arrive at around 10 am.

Although Bonifacio has its inevitable drawbacks; exorbitant prices, overwhelming crowds in July and August and a commercial cynicism that’s atypical of Corsica as a whole, it has an unexpected charm that is well worth exploring.

There are impressive views of the citadel from the cliffs at the head of the Montée Rastello (reached via the pathway running left from the top of the steps), but they’re not a patch on the spectacular panorama from the sea. Throughout the day, a flotilla of excursion boats ferries visitors out to the best vantage points, taking in a string of caves and other landmarks only accessible by water en route, including the Îles Lavezzi , the scattering of small islets where the troopship Sémillante was shipwrecked in 1855, now designated as a nature reserve.

The whole experience of bobbing around to an amplified running commentary is about as touristy as Bonifacio gets, but it’s well worth enduring just to round the mouth of the harbour and see the vieille ville , perched atop the famous chalk cliffs. The Lavezzi islets themselves are surrounded by wonderfully clear sea water, offering Corsica’s best snorkelling. On your way back, you skirt the famous Île Cavallo , or “millionaire’s island”, where the likes of Princess Caroline of Monaco and other French and Italian glitterati have luxury hideaways.

The beaches within walking distance of Bonifacio are generally smaller and less appealing than most in southern Corsica. For a dazzling splash of turquoise, you’ll have to follow the narrow, twisting lane east of town in the direction of Pertusatu lighthouse, turning left when you see signs for Piantarella , Corsica’s kitesurfing hotspot. A twenty-minute walk south around the shore from there takes you past the remains of a superbly situated Roman villa to a pair of divine little coves, Grand Sperone and Petit Sperone – both shallow and perfect for kids.

Another superb beach in the area is Rondinara , a perfect shell-shaped cove of turquoise water enclosed by dunes and a pair of twin headlands. Located 10km north (east of N198), it’s sufficiently off the beaten track to remain relatively peaceful (outside school holidays). Facilities are minimal, limited to a smart wooden beach restaurant, paying car park and campsite. Shade is at a premium, so come armed with a parasol.

Aerial of Bonifacio © LuckyViks / iStock

Top Image: Bonifacio (Bonifaziu) © Andrea Sirri / Shutterstock

Boat trips from Bonifacio

From the moment you arrive in Bonifacio, you’ll be pestered by touts from the many boat companies running excursions out of the harbour. There are more than a dozen of these, but they all offer more or less the same routes, at the same prices.

Lasting between thirty and forty-five minutes, the shorter trips take you out along the cliffs to the grottes marines (sea caves) and calanches (inlets) below the old town.

Longer excursions head out to the Îles Lavezzi , part of the archipelago to the east of the straits of Bonifacio. Most companies offer a shuttle ( navette ) service, allowing you to spend as much time as you like on the islands before returning. Boats go out past the Grain de Sable and Phare du Pertusato and then moor at the main island of Lavezzi , beside the cimetière Achiarino . Buried in two walled cemeteries are the victims of the Sémillante shipwreck of 1855, in which 773 crew members and soldiers bound for the Crimean War were drowned after their vessel was blown onto the rocks.

Classified as a nature reserve since 1982, the islets are home to several rare species of wild flower , and offer fabulous snorkelling and some exquisite shell-sand beaches . A network of footpaths runs between them, well waymarked, as you’re not permitted to wander off into the fragile vegetation.

Until Napoléon III had a coach road built around Cap Corse in the nineteenth century, the promontory was effectively cut off from the rest of the island, and relied on Italian maritime traffic for its income – hence its distinctive Tuscan dialect. Many Capicursini later left to seek their fortunes in the colonies of the Caribbean, which explains the distinctly ostentatious mansions, or palazzi , built by the successful émigrés (nicknamed “les Américains”) on their return. For all the changes brought by the modern world, Cap Corse still feels like a separate country, with wild flowers in profusion, vineyards and quiet, traditional fishing villages.

Forty kilometres long and only fifteen across, the peninsula is divided by a spine of mountains called the Serra, which peaks at Cima di e Folicce , 1324m above sea level. The coast on the east side of this divide is characterized by tiny ports, or marines , tucked into gently sloping river-mouths, alongside coves which become sandier as you go further north. The villages of the western coast are sited on rugged cliffs, high above the rough sea and tiny rocky inlets that can be glimpsed from the corniche road.

Centuri-Port

When Dr Johnson’s biographer, James Boswell, arrived here from England in 1765, the former Roman settlement of Centuri-Port was a tiny fishing village, recommended to him for its peaceful detachment from the dangerous turmoil of the rest of Corsica. Not much has changed since Boswell’s time: Centuri-Port exudes tranquillity despite a serious influx of summer residents, many of them artists who come to paint the fishing boats in the slightly prettified harbour, where the grey-stone wall is highlighted by the green serpentine roofs of the encircling cottages, restaurants and bars. The only drawback is the beach, which is disappointingly muddy and not ideal for sunbathing.

A port since Roman times, well-sheltered Macinaggio , 20km north of Erbalunga, was developed by the Genoese in 1620 for the export of olive oil and wine to the Italian peninsula. The Corsican independence leader, Pascal Paoli, landed here in 1790 after his exile in England, whereupon he kissed the ground and uttered the words “ O ma patrie, je t’ai quitté esclave, je te retrouve libre ” (“Oh my country, I left you as a slave, I rediscover you a free man”). There’s not much of a historic patina to the place nowadays, but with its packed marina and line of colourful seafront awnings, Macinaggio has a certain appeal, made all the stronger by its proximity to some of the wildest landscape on the Corsican coast.

Another reason to linger is to sample the superb Clos Nicrosi wines, grown in the terraces above the village, which you can taste at the domaine’s little shop on the north side of the Rogliano road, opposite the U Ricordu hotel.

North of the town lie some beautiful stretches of sand and clear sea – an area demarcated as the Site Naturel de la Capandula . A marked footpath, known as Le Sentier des Douaniers because it used to be patrolled by customs officials, threads its way across the hills and coves of the reserve, giving access to an area that cannot by reached by road.

Central Corsica is a nonstop parade of stupendous scenery, and the best way to immerse yourself in it is to get onto the region’s ever-expanding network of trails and forest tracks. The ridge of granite mountains forming the spine of the island is closely followed by the epic GR20 footpath, which can be picked up from various villages and is scattered with refuge huts, most of them offering no facilities except shelter. For the less active there are also plenty of roads penetrating deep into the forests of Vizzavona, La Restonica and Rospa Sorba, crossing lofty passes that provide exceptional views across the island. The most popular attractions in the centre, though, are the magnificent gorges of La Restonica and Tavignano , both within easy reach of Corte.

Stacked up the side of a wedge-shaped crag against a spectacular backdrop of granite mountains, Corte epitomizes l’âme corse , or “Corsican soul” – a small town marooned amid a grandiose landscape, where a spirit of dogged patriotism is never far from the surface. Corte has been the home of Corsican nationalism since the first National Constitution was drawn up here in 1731, and was also where Pascal Paoli , “U Babbu di u Patria” (“Father of the Nation”), formed the island’s first democratic government later in the eighteenth century. Self-consciously insular and grimly proud, it can seem an inhospitable place at times, although the presence of the island’s only university lightens the atmosphere noticeably during termtime, when the bars and cafés lining its long main street fill with students. For the outsider, Corte’s charm is concentrated in the tranquil haute ville , where the forbidding citadelle – site of a modern museum – presides over a warren of narrow, cobbled streets.

It’s the herbs – thyme, marjoram, basil, fennel and rosemary – of the maquis (the dense, scented scrub covering lowland Corsica) that lend the island’s cuisine its distinctive aromas.

You’ll find the best charcuterie in the hills of the interior, where pork is smoked and cured in the cold cellars of village houses – it’s particularly delicious in Castagniccia, where wild pigs feed on the chestnuts which were once the staple diet of the locals. Here you can also taste chestnut fritters ( fritelli a gaju frescu ) and chestnut porridge ( pulenta ) sprinkled with sugar or eau de vie. Brocciu , a soft mozzarella-like cheese made with ewe’s milk, is found everywhere on the island, forming the basis for many dishes, including omelettes and cannelloni. Fromage corse is also very good – a hard cheese made in the sheep- and goat-rearing central regions, where cabrettu à l’istrettu (kid stew) is a speciality.

Game – mainly stews of hare and wild boar but also roast woodcock, partridge and wood pigeon – features throughout the island’s mountain and forested regions. Here blackbirds ( merles ) are made into a fragrant pâté, and eel and trout are fished from the unpolluted rivers. Sea fish like red mullet ( rouget ), bream ( loup de mer ) and a great variety of shellfish is eaten along the coast – the best crayfish ( langouste ) comes from around the Golfe de St-Florent, whereas oysters ( huîtres ) and mussels ( moules ) are a speciality of the eastern plain.

Corsica produces some excellent, and still little-known, wines , mostly from indigenous vine stocks that yield distinctive, herb-tinged aromas. Names to look out for include: Domaine Torraccia (Porto-Vecchio); Domaine Fiumicicoli (Sartène); Domaine Saparale (Sartène); Domaine Gentille (Patrimonio); Domaine Leccia (Patrimomio); and Venturi-Pieretti (Cap Corse). In addition to the usual whites, reds and rosés, the last of these makes the sweet muscat for which Cap Corse was renowned in previous centuries. Another popular aperitif is the drink known as Cap Corse, a fortified wine flavoured with quinine and herbs. Note that tap water is particularly good quality in Corsica, coming from the fresh mountain streams.

Winding some 170km from Calenzana (12km from Calvi) to Conca (22km from Porto-Vecchio), the GR20 is Corsica’s most demanding long-distance footpath. Only one-third of the 18,000 to 20,000 hikers who start it each season complete all sixteen stages, which can be covered in ten to twelve days if you’re in good physical shape – if you’re not, don’t even think about attempting this route. Marked with red-and-white splashes of paint, it comprises a series of harsh ascents and descents, sections of which exceed 2000m and become more of a scramble than a walk, with stanchions, cables and ladders driven into the rock as essential aids. The going is made tougher by the necessity of carrying a sleeping bag, all-weather kit and two or three days’ food with you. That said, the rewards more than compensate. The GR20 takes in the most spectacular mountain terrain in Corsica and along the way you can spot the elusive mouflon (mountain sheep), glimpse lammergeier (a rare vulture) wheeling around the crags, and swim in ice-cold torrents and waterfalls.

The first thing you need to do before setting off is get hold of the Parc Régional’s indispensable Topo-guide , published by the Fédération Française de la Randonnée Pédestre, which gives a detailed description of the route, along with relevant sections of IGN contour maps, lists of refuges and other essential information. Most good bookshops in Corsica stock them, or call at the park office in Ajaccio.

The route can be undertaken in either direction , but most hikers start in the north at Calenzana, tackling the most demanding étapes early on. The hardship is alleviated by extraordinary mountainscapes as you round the Cinto massif, skirt the Asco, Niolo, Tavignano and Restonica valleys, and scale the sides of Monte d’Oro and Rotondo. At Vizzavona on the main Bastia–Corte–Ajaccio road, roughly the halfway mark, you can call it a day and catch a bus or train back to the coast, or press on south across two more ranges to the needle peaks of Bavella.

Accommodation along the route is provided by refuges , where, for around €13–17, you can take a hot shower, use an equipped kitchen and bunk down on mattresses. Usually converted bergeries , these places are staffed by wardens during the peak period (June–Sept). Advance reservations can be made online via the national park (PNRC) website, parc-corse.org, for an advance payment of €5 per bed; any un-booked places are allocated on a first-come-first-served basis, so be prepared to bivouac if you arrive late. Another reason to be on the trail soon after dawn is that it allows you to break the back of the étape before 2pm, when clouds tend to bubble over the mountains and obscure the views.

The weather in the high mountains is notoriously fickle. A sunny morning doesn’t necessarily mean a sunny day, and during July and August violent storms can envelop the route without warning. It’s therefore essential to take good wet-weather gear with you, as well as a hat, sunblock and shades. In addition, make sure you set off on each stage with adequate food and water . At the height of the season, most refuges sell basic supplies ( alimentation or ravitaillement ), but you shouldn’t rely on this service; ask hikers coming from the opposite direction where their last supply stop was and plan accordingly (basic provisions are always available at the main passes of Col de Vergio, Col de Vizzavona, Col de Bavella and Col de Verde). The refuge wardens ( gardiens ) will be able to advise you on how much water to carry at each stage.

Finally, a word of warning : each year, injured hikers have to be air-lifted to safety off remote sections of the GR20, normally because they strayed from the marked route and got lost. Occasionally, fatal accidents also occur for the same reason, so always keep the paint splashes in sight, especially if the weather closes in – don’t rely purely on the many cairns that punctuate the route, as these sometimes mark more hazardous paths to high peaks.

In June 2015, a landslide caused by a violent storm in the notorious Cirque de la Solitude, between Asco Stagnu and the Tighjettu refuge, killed five trekkers and forced the closure of this part of the route. At the time of writing, minibuses were being used to shuttle walkers between the valleys instead, while the PNRC were equipping an alternative high-level “variant” route to bypass the cirque, which is expected to remain closed for the foreseeable future. Full details on the new variant are posted on the PNRC website.

Le Golfe de Valinco

From Ajaccio, the vista of whitewashed villas and sandy beaches lining the opposite side of the gulf may tempt you out of town when you first arrive. On closer inspection, however, Porticcio turns out to be a faceless string of leisure settlements for Ajaccio’s smart set, complete with tennis courts, malls and flotillas of jet-skis. Better to skip this stretch and press on south along the route nationale (RN194) which, after scaling the Col de Celaccia , winds down to the stunning Golfe de Valinco . A vast blue inlet bounded by rolling, scrub-covered hills, the gulf presents the first dramatic scenery along the coastal highway. It also marks the start of militant and Mafia-ridden south Corsica, more closely associated with vendetta, banditry and separatism than any other part of the island. Many of the mountain villages glimpsed from the roads hereabouts are riven with age-old divisions, exacerbated in recent years by the spread of organized crime and nationalist violence. But the island’s seamier side is rarely discernible to the hundreds of thousands of visitors who pass through each summer, most of whom stay around the small port of Propriano , at the eastern end of the gulf. In addition to offering most of the area’s tourist amenities, this busy resort town lies within easy reach of the menhirs at Filitosa , one of the western Mediterranean’s most important prehistoric sites.

Set deep in the countryside of the fertile Vallée du Taravo, the extraordinary Station Préhistorique de Filitosa , 17km north of Propriano, comprises a wonderful array of statue-menhirs and prehistoric structures encapsulating some eight thousand years of history. There’s no public transport to the site; vehicles should be parked in the small car park five-minutes’ walk from the entrance in the village.

Filitosa was settled by Neolithic farming people who lived here in rock shelters until the arrival of navigators from the east in about 3500 BC. These invaders were the creators of the menhirs, the earliest of which were possibly phallic symbols worshipped by an ancient fertility cult. When the seafaring people known as the Torréens (after the towers they built on Corsica) conquered Filitosa around 1300 BC, they destroyed most of the menhirs, incorporating the broken stones into the area of dry-stone walling surrounding the site’s two torri , or towers, examples of which can be found all over the south of Corsica. The site remained undiscovered until a farmer stumbled across the ruins on his land in the late 1940s.

Propriano (Pruprià)

Tucked into the narrowest part of the Golfe de Valinco, the small port of Propriano , 57km southeast of Ajaccio, centres on a fine natural harbour that was exploited by the ancient Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans, but became a prime target for Saracen pirate raids in the sixteenth century, when it was largely destroyed. Redeveloped in the 1900s, it now boasts a thriving marina, and handles ferries to Toulon, Marseille and Sardinia.

During the summer, tourists come here in droves for the area’s beaches . The nearest of these, plage de Lido , lies 1km west, just beyond the Port de Commerce, but it’s nowhere near as pretty as the coves strung along the northern shore of the gulf around Olmeto plage . You can reach Olmeto on the three daily buses from Propriano to Porto.

Napoleon Bonaparte was born in Ajaccio in 1769, a year after the French took over the island from the Genoese. They made a thorough job of it, crushing the Corsican leader Paoli’s troops at Ponte Nuovo and driving him into exile. Napoleon’s father Carlo, a close associate of Paoli, fled the scene of the battle with his pregnant wife in order to escape the victorious French army. But Carlo’s subsequent behaviour was quite different from that of his former leader – he came to terms with the French, becoming a representative of the newly styled Corsican nobility in the National Assembly, and using his contacts with the French governor to get a free education for his children.

At the age of 9, Napoleon was awarded a scholarship to the Brienne military academy , an institution specially founded to teach the sons of the French nobility the responsibilities of their status, and the young son of a Corsican Italian-speaking household used his time well, leaving Brienne to enter the exclusive École Militaire in Paris. At the age of 16 he was commissioned into the artillery. When he was 20 the Revolution broke out in Paris and the scene was set for a remarkable career.

Always an ambitious opportunist, Napolean obtained leave from his regiment, returned to Ajaccio, joined the local Jacobin club and – with his eye on a colonelship in the Corsican militia – promoted enthusiastically the interests of the Revolution. However, things did not quite work out as he had planned, for Pascal Paoli had also returned to Corsica.

Carlo Bonaparte had died some years before, and Napoleon was head of a family that had formerly given Paoli strong support. Having spent the last twenty years in London, Paoli was pro-English and had developed a profound distaste for revolutionary excesses. Napoleon’s French allegiance and his Jacobin views antagonized the older man, and his military conduct didn’t enhance his standing at all. Elected second-in-command of the volunteer militia, Napoleon was involved in an unsuccessful attempt to wrest control of the citadelle from royalist sympathizers. He thus took much of the blame when, in reprisal for the killing of one of the militiamen, several people were gunned down in Ajaccio, an incident which engendered eight days of civil war. In June 1793, Napoleon and his family were chased back to the mainland by the Paolists.

Napoleon promptly renounced any special allegiance he had ever felt for Corsica. He Gallicized the spelling of his name, preferring Napoléon to his baptismal Napoleone. And, although he was later to speak with nostalgia about the scents of the Corsican countryside, he put the city of his birth fourth on the list of places he would like to be buried.

Taking its name from the thick mists that sweep over the region in winter, the Nebbio has for centuries been one of the most fertile parts of the island, producing honey, chestnuts and some of the island’s finest wine. An amphitheatre of rippled chalk hills, vineyards and cultivated valleys surrounds the area’s main town, St-Florent , half an hour’s drive west over the mountain from Bastia at the base of Cap Corse. Aside from EU subsidies, the major money earner here is viticulture: the village of Patrimonio is the wine-growing hub, with caves offering dégustations lined up along its main street.

St-Florent is the obvious base for day-trips to the beautifully preserved Pisan church of Santa Maria Assunta, just outside the town, and the Désert des Agriates , a wilderness of parched maquis-covered hills across the bay whose rugged coastline harbours one of Corsica’s least accessible, but most picturesque, beaches.

Patrimonio (Patrimoniu)

Some 6km from St-Florent lies PATRIMONIO , centre of the first Corsican wine region to gain appellation contrôlée status. Apart from the renowned local muscat, which can be sampled in the village or at one of the caves along the route from St-Florent, Patrimonio’s chief asset is the sixteenth-century church of St-Martin , occupying its own little hillock and visible for kilometres around. The colour of burnt sienna, it stands out vividly against the rich green vineyards and chalk hills. In a garden 200m south of the church stands a limestone statue-menhir known as U Nativu, a late megalithic piece dating from 900–800 BC. A carved T-shape on its front represents a breastbone, and two eyebrows and a chin can also be made out.

The U Nativu menhir takes pride of place next to the stage at Patrimonio’s annual open-air guitar festival , held in the last week of July next to the church, when performers and music aficionados from all over Europe converge on the village.

Viewed from across the bay, St-Florent (San Fiurenzu) appears as a bright line against the black tidal wave of the Tenda hills, the pale stone houses seeming to rise straight out of the sea, overlooked by a squat circular citadelle. It’s a relaxing town, with a decent beach and a good number of restaurants, but the key to its success is the marina , which is jammed with expensive boats throughout the summer. Neither the tourists, however, nor indeed St-Florent’s proximity to Bastia, entirely eclipse the air of isolation conferred on the town by its brooding backdrop of mountains and scrubby desert.

In Roman times, a settlement called Cersunam – referred to as Nebbium by chroniclers from the ninth century onwards – existed a kilometre east of the present village. The ancient port was eclipsed by the harbour that developed around the new Genoese citadelle in the fifteenth century, which prospered as one of Genoa’s strongholds, and it was from here that Paoli set off for London in 1796, never to return.

The Désert des Agriates

Extending westwards from the Golfe de St-Florent to the mouth of the Ostriconi River, the Désert des Agriates is a vast area of uninhabited land, dotted with clumps of cacti and scrub-covered hills. It may appear inhospitable now, but during the time of the Genoese this rocky moonscape was, as its name implies, a veritable breadbasket ( agriates means “cultivated fields”). In fact, so much wheat was grown here that the Italian overlords levied a special tax on grain to prevent any build-up of funds that might have financed an insurrection. Fires and soil erosion eventually took their toll, however, and by the 1970s the area had become a total wilderness.

Numerous crackpot schemes to redevelop the Désert have been mooted over the years – from atomic weapon test zones to concrete Club-Med-style resorts – but during the past few decades the government has gradually bought up the land from its various owners (among them the Rothschild family) and designated it as a protected nature reserve.

A couple of rough pistes wind into the desert, but without some kind of 4WD vehicle the only feasible way to explore the area and its rugged coastline, which includes two of the island’s most beautiful beaches , is on foot. From St-Florent, a pathway winds northwest to plage de Perajola , just off the main Calvi highway (N1197), in three easy stages. The first takes around 5hr 30min, and leads past the famous Martello tower and much-photographed plage de Loto to plage de Saleccia , a huge sweep of soft white sand and turquoise sea that was used as a location for the invasion sequences in the film The Longest Day .

The overwhelming proximity of the mountains, combined with the pervasive eucalyptus and spicy scent of the maquis, give Porto , 30km south of Calvi, a uniquely intense atmosphere that makes it one of the most interesting places to stay on the west coast. Except for a watchtower erected here by the Genoese in the second half of the sixteenth century, the site was only built upon with the onset of tourism since the 1950s; today the village is still so small that it can become claustrophobic in July and August, when overcrowding is no joke. Off season, the place becomes eerily deserted, so you’d do well to choose your times carefully; the best months are May, June and September.

The crowds and traffic jams tend to be most oppressive passing the famous Calanches , a huge mass of weirdly eroded pink rock just southwest of Porto, but you can easily sidestep the tourist deluge in picturesque Piana , which overlooks the gulf from its southern shore, or by heading inland from Porto through the Gorges de Spelunca . Forming a ravine running from the sea to the watershed of the island, this spectacular gorge gives access to the equally grandiose Forêt d’Aïtone , site of Corsica’s most ancient Laricio pine trees and a deservedly popular hiking area. Throughout the forest, the river and its tributaries are punctuated by strings of piscines naturelles (natural swimming pools) – a refreshing alternative to the beaches hereabouts. If you’re travelling between Porto and Ajaccio, a worthwhile place to break the journey is the clifftop village of Cargèse where the two main attractions are the Greek church and spectacular beach.

Competition between hotels is more cut-throat in Porto than in any other resort on the island. During slack periods towards the beginning and end of the season, most places engage in a full-on price war, pasting up cheaper tariffs than their neighbours – all of which is great for punters. In late July and August, however, the normal high rates prevail.

The Calanches

The UNESCO-protected site of the Calanches , 5km southwest of Porto, takes its name from calanca , the Corsican word for creek or inlet, but the outstanding characteristics here are the vivid orange and pink rock masses and pinnacles which crumble into the dark blue sea. Liable to unusual patterns of erosion, these tormented rock formations and porphyry needles, some of which soar 300m above the waves, have long been associated with different animals and figures, of which the most famous is the Tête de Chien (Dog’s Head) at the north end of the stretch of cliffs. Other figures and creatures conjured up include a Moor’s head, a monocled bishop, a bear and a tortoise.

One way to see the fantastic cliffs of the Calanches is by boat from Porto. Alternatively, you could drive along the corniche road that weaves through the granite archways on its way to Piana. Eight kilometres along the road from Porto, the Roches Bleues café is a convenient landmark for walkers .

Picturesque Piana occupies a prime location overlooking the Calanches, but for some reason does not suffer the deluge of tourists that Porto endures. Retaining a sleepy feel, the village comprises a cluster of pink houses ranged around an eighteenth-century church and square, from the edge of which the panoramic views over the Golfe de Porto are sublime.

Calanches walks

The rock formations visible from the road are not a patch on what you can see from the waymarked trails winding through the Calanches, which vary from easy ambles to strenuous stepped ascents. An excellent leaflet highlighting the pick of the routes is available free from tourist offices. Whichever one you choose, leave early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the heat in summer, and take plenty of water.

Walk one: The most popular walk is to the Château Fort (1hr), which begins at a sharp hairpin in the D81, 700m north of the Café Roches Rouges (look for the car park and signboard at the roadside). Passing the famous Tête de Chien, it snakes along a ridge lined by dramatic porphyry forms to a huge square chunk of granite resembling a ruined castle. Just before reaching it there’s an open platform from where the views of the gulf and Paglia Orba, Corsica’s third-highest mountain, are superb – one of the best sunset spots on the island – but bring a torch to help find the path back.

Walk two: For a more challenging extension to Walk one, begin instead at the Roches Rouges Café . On the opposite side of the road, two paths strike up the hill: follow the one on your left (nearest the stream, as you face away from the café), which zigzags steeply up the rocks, over a pass and down the other side to rejoin the D81 in around 1hr 15min. About 150m west of the spot where you meet the road is the trailhead for the Château Fort walk, with more superb views.

Walk three: A small oratory niche in the cliff by the roadside, 500m south of Café Roches Rouges , contains a Madonna statue, Santa Maria, from where the wonderful sentier muletier (1hr) climbs into the rocks above. Before the road was blasted through the Calanches in 1850, this old paved path, an extraordinary feat of workmanship supported in places by dry-stone banks and walls, formed the main artery between the villages of Piana and Ota. After a very steep start, the route contours through the rocks and pine woods above the restored mill at Pont de Gavallaghiu, emerging after one hour back on the D81, roughly 1.5km south of the starting point. Return by the same path.

Cargèse (Carghjese)

Sitting high above a deep blue bay on a cliff scattered with olive trees, Cargèse , 20km southwest of Porto, exudes a lazy charm that attracts hundreds of well-heeled summer residents to its pretty white houses and hotels. The full-time locals, half of whom are descendants of Greek refugees who fled the Turkish occupation of the Peloponnese in the seventeenth century, seem to accept with nonchalance this inundation – and the proximity of a large Club Med complex – but the best times to visit are May and late September, when Cargèse is all but empty.

Eating and drinking

A fair number of restaurants are scattered about the village, as well as the standard crop of basic pizzerias, but the most tempting places to eat are down in the harbour.

The overall standard of restaurants in Porto is poor, with overpriced food and indifferent service the norm, particularly during high season. There are, however, three noteworthy exceptions:

The Gorges de Spelunca

Spanning the 2km between the villages of Ota and Évisa , a few kilometres inland from Porto, the Gorges de Spelunca are a formidable sight, with bare orange granite walls, 1km deep in places, plunging into the foaming green torrent created by the confluence of the rivers Porto, Tavulella, Onca, Campi and Aïtone. The sunlight, ricocheting across the rock walls, creates a sinister effect that’s heightened by the dark jagged needles of the encircling peaks. The most dramatic part of the gorge can be seen from the road, which hugs the edge for much of its length.

Set on a hillock overlooking a beautiful deep blue bay, Porto-Vecchio , 25km north of Bonifacio, was rated by James Boswell as one of “the most distinguished harbours in Europe”. It was founded in 1539 as a second Genoese stronghold on the east coast, Bastia being well established in the north. The site was perfect: close to the unexploited and fertile plain, it benefited from secure high land and a sheltered harbour, although the mosquito population spread malaria and wiped out the first Ligurian settlers within months. Things began to take off mainly thanks to the cork industry, which still thrived well into the twentieth century. Today most revenue comes from tourists, the vast majority of them well-heeled Italians who flock here for the fine outlying beaches . To the northwest, the little town of Zonza makes a good base for exploring the dramatic forest that surrounds one of Corsica’s most awesome road trips, the route de Bavella .

Around the centre of town there’s not much to see, apart from the well-preserved fortress and the small grid of ancient streets backing onto the main place de la République. East of the square you can’t miss the Porte Génoise , which frames a delightful expanse of sea and saltpans and through which you’ll find the quickest route down to the modern marina, which is lined with cafés and restaurants.

Prosper Mérimée famously dubbed Sartène “la plus corse des villes corses” (“the most Corsican of Corsican towns”), but the nineteenth-century German chronicler Gregorovius put a less complimentary spin on it when he described it as a “town peopled by demons”. Sartène hasn’t shaken off its hostile image, despite being a smart, better-groomed place than many small Corsican towns. The main square, place Porta, doesn’t offer many diversions once you’ve explored the enclosed vielle ville , and the only time of year Sartène teems with tourists is at Easter for U Catenacciu , a Good Friday procession that packs the main square with onlookers.

Close to Sartène are some of the island’s best-known prehistoric sites , most notably Filitosa , the megaliths of Cauria and the Alignement de Palaggiu – Corsica’s largest array of prehistoric standing stones – monuments from which are displayed in the town’s excellent museum.

The megalithic sites

Sparsely populated today, the rolling hills of the southwestern corner of Corsica are rich in prehistoric sites. The megaliths of Cauria , standing in ghostly isolation 10km southwest from Sartène, comprise the Dolmen de Fontanaccia, the best-preserved monument of its kind on Corsica, while the nearby alignments of Stantari and Renaggiu have an impressive congregation of statue-menhirs.

More than 250 menhirs can be seen northwest of Cauria at Palaggiu , another rewardingly remote site. Equally wild is the coast hereabouts, with deep clefts and coves providing some excellent spots for diving and secluded swimming.

As you snake your way through the maquis, the Dolmen de Fontanaccia eventually comes into view on the horizon, crowning the crest of a low hill amid a sea of vegetation. A blue sign at the parking space indicates the track to the dolmen, a fifteen-minute walk away. Known to the locals as the Stazzona del Diavolu (Devil’s Forge), a name that does justice to its enigmatic power, the Dolmen de Fontanaccia is in fact a burial chamber from around 2000 BC. This period was marked by a change in burial customs – whereas bodies had previously been buried in stone coffins in the ground, they were now placed above, in a mound of earth enclosed in a stone chamber. What you see today is a great stone table, comprising six huge granite blocks nearly 2m high, topped by a stone slab that remained after the earth eroded away.

The twenty “standing men” of the Alignement de Stantari , 200m to the east of the dolmen, date from the same period. All are featureless, except two which have roughly sculpted eyes and noses, with diagonal swords on their fronts and sockets in their heads where horns would probably have been attached.

Across a couple of fields to the south is the Alignement de Renaggiu , a gathering of forty menhirs standing in rows amid a small shadowy copse, set against the enormous granite outcrop of Punta di Cauria. Some of the menhirs have fallen, but all face north to south, a fact that seems to rule out any connection with a sun-related cult.

The extraordinary Réserve Naturel de Scandola takes up the promontory dividing the Balagne from the Golfe de Porto. Composed of striking red porphyry granite, its sheer cliffs and gnarled claw-like outcrops were formed by Monte Cinto’s volcanic eruptions 250 million years ago, and subsequent erosion has fashioned shadowy caves, grottoes and gashes in the rock. Scandola’s colours are as remarkable as the shapes, the hues varying from the charcoal grey of granite to incandescent rusty purple.

The headland and its surrounding water were declared a nature reserve in 1975 and now support significant colonies of seabirds, dolphins and seals, as well as 450 types of seaweed and some remarkable fish such as the grouper, a species more commonly found in the Caribbean. In addition, nests belonging to the rare Audouin’s gull are visible on the cliffs, and you might see the odd fish eagle ( Balbuzard pêcheur ) – there used to be only a handful of nesting pairs at one time, but careful conservation has increased their numbers considerably over the past two decades.

Connected by a mere mule track to the rest of the island (1hr 30min on foot from the nearest road), the tiny fishing haven of Girolata , immediately east of Scandola, has a dreamlike quality that’s highlighted by the vivid red of the surrounding rocks. A short stretch of stony beach and a few houses are dominated by a stately watchtower, built by the Genoese in the seventeenth century in the form of a small castle on a bluff overlooking the cove. For most of the year, this is one of the most idyllic spots on the island, with only the odd yacht and party of hikers to threaten the settlement’s tranquillity. From June to September, though, daily boat trips from Porto and Calvi ensure the village is swamped during the middle of the day, so if you want to make the most of the scenery and peace and quiet, walk here and stay a night in one of the gîtes .

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WHAT TO AVOID IN CORSICA – 11 COMMON MISTAKES

Corsica is a dream travel destination for anyone seeking beautiful nature, time-tested rich culture and delicious cuisine. It stands out as a fascinating place where each day is filled with thrilling adventures that leave visitors enchanted and longing to return.

However, holidaymakers often make common mistakes that may hinder their experience on this charming Mediterranean island, leading to missed opportunities and frustration.

In this post, I will explore the 11 most common errors tourists make when visiting Corsica. By learning what to avoid, you will be better equipped to navigate your trip smoothly ensuring unforgettable memories and peace of mind on your vacation.

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1. AVOID FAILING TO MAKE EARLY RESERVATIONS

The advantages of making early reservations for a holiday in Corsica cannot be understated. The key benefits include savings on travel expenses, greater access to a wide range of transport and accommodation options, and an extended time to plan the ideal itinerary.

As a rule of thumb, plane and ferry ticket prices are the lowest early in the season with fares gradually increasing as summer approaches. Pricing is also based on demand which tends to surge in the peak travel period- July and August. The same principle of seasonality applies to renting a car in Corsica. The earlier you secure your vehicle the less it will cost.

As to lodging options, whether you prefer an affordable self-catering studio or a luxury hotel room, booking in advance increases your chances of finding the right place that meets all your expectations. Accommodation base in Corsica is limited, void of overdeveloped apartment block residences. Start searching well in advance to avoid disappointment.

This strategy, in turn, will grant you ample time to focus on planning other aspects of your trip such as sightseeing, cultural experiences, or activities. With more time to prepare you will be able to thoroughly research Corsica’s inexhaustible attraction offering to create a truly unforgettable Mediterranean adventure.

Rent your car in Corsica – check out  Renatlcars.com   to find the best deals

Is Corsica an expensive travel destination – money guide for visitors

Visiting Corsica – how to get there

Corsica – where to go and what to do

2. AVOID OVERPLANNING YOUR VISIT

Due to an unparalleled variety of fabulous natural and cultural attractions available on the island, overplanning a holiday in Corsica tends to be an incredibly common mistake. Visitors often try to cram too many experiences into their schedule which may leave them feeling exhausted rather than joyful. But it is simply not possible to see all of the island’s main attractions during just one visit unless you are planning a months-long stay.

Follow these recommendations to limit stress, create a well-rounded vacation, and maintain a healthy balance between active recreation and relaxation.

• Consider what type of holiday you most look forward to. Based on your preferences, pick your key experiences narrowing your bucket list to a few highlights.
• If you plan a week-long stay or a shorter visit, choose only one part of Corsica to explore rather than attempting to cover the whole territory. If you are confident this will be your only opportunity to see the island, you may choose to explore more broadly.
• Avoid creating a rigid itinerary allowing yourself more flexibility. Corsica is full of surprises and unexpected adventures.
• On the other hand, if you set out on a road trip, plan ahead and research your destinations in depth.
• Incorporate downtime into your stay adapting each day to your mood and energy levels.

Where to stay in Corsica – best areas and places for your visit

Top 3 destinations for a car-free holiday in Corsica

3. AVOID FORGETTING TO PACK FOR CHANGEABLE WEATHER

In its coastal areas, Corsica enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate with dry, hot summers but in high altitudes, the island features alpine weather conditions. In the mountains, even in May, you may still encounter snow, strong, cold winds and heavy rain. Summer, on the other hand, brings sudden, intense thunderstorms with flash floods.

If active recreation is your thing, anticipate potential hazards and prepare accordingly.

• Comfortable hiking shoes are the most important accessory when exploring the Island of Beauty. Corsica is heaven for outdoor enthusiasts with a maze of sublime long-distance trails as well as easy, family-friendly treks . Hiking footwear will also be useful in river canyons where good support and traction are essential.
• Corsica is a land of winds that can either enhance your summer afternoon with their cooling breezes or render outdoor exploration unbearable due to chilling gusts. A GORE-TEX headband and a breathable windproof outer layer will ensure optimal comfort on walks, hikes, and bicycle rides.
• A light rainproof jacket and trousers are your best friend if you choose to spend a significant amount of time in the Corsican mountains. Also, consider waterproof footwear to ensure that you stay dry and warm in wet weather.

Is Corsica a safe place to visit – travel advice and tips

Best time to visit Corsica

Corsica – 30 essential facts

4. AVOID UNDERESTIMATING DRIVING TIME

In Corsica, distances may take much longer to cover than you may expect. Most roads are narrow and winding, sometimes flanked by dizzying drops or vertical rock faces.

The average driving time will oscillate around 35km/h unless you use the east coast’s principle T11-RT10 route running in a straight line from Bastia in the north to Bonifacio on the island’s southern tip.

In peak season, with the increase of car and tour bus traffic, you will encounter further delays, especially on the access routes to the most popular tourist destinations.

When creating your Corsican itinerary, take into account these challenging driving conditions and their impact on the travelling speed. Try to plan as little time as possible in the car, or treat the journey as a scenic road trip. Seek out attractions and picturesque spots along the way where you can stop and enjoy an entertaining break. Luckily, Corsica brims with unforgettable scenic drives .

Driving in Corsica – tips and scenic routes ideas

Getting around Corsica – do you need a car?

5. AVOID NOT CARRYING CASH

Always keep cash on hand when travelling in Corsica. Euro (€) is France’s official currency and it is widely accepted in shops, restaurants, administrative institutions, and services.

In Corsica, you will find that smaller merchants in remote or less touristy areas might accept cash as the only means of payment. Coins or notes also come in handy when settling smaller transactions such as snacks or souvenirs where vendors may impose minimum limits for card transactions.

A backup payment option is particularly useful in the case of technical issues or card malfunctions, but also global-scale IT outages, such as the incident in the summer of 2024. Travellers equipped with cash reserves avoided unnecessary stress and problems arising from technological disruptions.

6. AVOID PASSING UP ON VISITING THE MOUNTAINS

Corsica is a celebrated sea and sand mecca and a true paradise for sun-worshipers, but heavenly beaches are not its only attraction. In fact, many holidaymakers visit the island to enjoy a widely different natural treasure- its breathtaking mountains.

Rising over 2000 meters in a range that runs from northwest to southeast, they divide Corsica into two distinct regions. Monte Cinto (2706m), the highest peak, is a famous hiking destination suited for experienced walkers, but other, more easily accessible summits are just as beautiful.

The island’s seven stunning massifs are home to 40 lakes, over 20 rivers, and majestic ancient forests of pines, oak, and chestnut trees. Crystal-clear emerald-hued natural pools dot this fragrant green tapestry providing a cooling respite from the coast’s sun-drenched air.

The Corsican mountains are also a great place to experience a multitude of fun outdoor activities such as climbing, canyoning, biking, or trekking. Lovers of nature are unmissably drawn by GR20, Europe’s emblematic long-distance trail running across the island for 180 km. Divided into stages, this famous hike opens up to some of the most arresting scenery in the Mediterranean.

In Corsica’s central territory also lies its heart and soul with authentic stone villages, old churches, and cultural landmarks testifying to the complicated insular history and the traditional way of life.

Route de Bavella – the most beautiful mountain drive in Corsica

Corte – the beating heart of Corsica’s identity

Natural swimming pools of Restonica

7. AVOID SKIPPING ON SUN PROTECTION

In the Mediterranean, effective sun protection is simply non-negotiable and Corsica is not an exception. High levels of UV radiation throughout the year carry various risks (severe sunburns, eye damage, fatigue, sunstroke) that can be mitigated if you follow these simple rules.

• Use a high-factor sun cream and reapply it regularly.
• Wear protective clothing including a hat and sunglasses.
• Seek shade during peak hours.
• Consider your skin type when planning sun exposure, light skin will burn easily at high altitudes in the Corsican mountains.
• Stay well-hydrated.

15 best beaches in Corsica for lovers of sea, sun, and sand – the ultimate guide

8. AVOID ENTERING WATER WITHOUT INSPECTING IT FOR JELLYFISH

Depending on wind and tides, the Corsican beaches may sometimes experience a jellyfish infestation. Their painful stings take time to heal spoiling for days dream holidays on the Island of Beauty.

To avoid an unpleasant surprise, before entering the sea, always scan the water as well as the shoreline for the presence of méduses . If you find that many people are already swimming, it’s most likely a sign that the beach is jellyfish-free. However, for long-distance swimming or extended snorkelling sessions, a wetsuit will provide a protective barrier minimizing skin exposure.

Luckily, the Corsican sea water in its coastal areas is translucent making it easy to spot the marine creatures.

Top beaches of south-east Corsica

Roccapina – beach lovers’ dream

9. AVOID SKIPPING ON A BOAT TOUR

With an abundance of breathtaking landscapes that create this beautiful Mediterranean island, Corsica boasts an unparalleled variety of easily accessible free attractions able to satisfy the most demanding travellers.

But even for those who seek vacation on a budget, one adventure is worth splashing out on, a scenic boat trip to see one of Corsica’s iconic natural landmarks – Scandola Nature Reserve , Calanches de Piana , or Lavezzi Islands . If you are staying in the Ajaccio area, a tour to visit Sanguinaires Islands at sunset is an equally unforgettable experience.

With over 120 summits exceeding 2000 meters, Corsica is, in reality, an impetuous mountain rising out of the sea, and viewed from the boat, its rugged silhouette is just spectacular. You will have a chance to admire dramatic rocky cliffs, hidden beaches, rare birds, or playful dolphins.

Corsican boat excursions cater to a wide range of tastes and preferences and will suit families, couples and groups of friends. You may choose a relaxing Iles Lavezzi sunbathing and snorkelling trip, an exciting, wild adventure in Scandola or Calanches , or a romantic, music and wine-accompanied Sanguinaires experience.

GetYourGuide and Viator , reputable tour and activity platforms, propose the most comprehensive offer of sea trips in Corsica, but in each of my posts on the mentioned destinations, you will find a narrowed-down selection of the most attractive options.

When choosing your ideal boat trip, please remember that small speedboats are not recommended for pregnant women, people with back problems, heart problems, or other serious medical conditions. In case of any of the above, choose a larger craft when booking your sea excursion.

Scandola Nature Reserve – explore Corsica’s natural treasure

Iles Lavezzi – escape to paradise in Corsica

Calanches de Piana – explore Corsica’s coastal paradise

Visit the magical Iles Sanguinaires Archipelago near Ajaccio

10. AVOID MISSING OUT ON LOCAL CUISINE

The Corsican gastronomy is unique and might not be what you could expect from a Mediterranean destination.

Although rich in local fish and seafood, it abounds with hearty, mountain dishes that used to sustain pastoral communities inhabiting higher altitudes in the past. Wild boar served as a fragrant stew is the island’s staple, but you will also find other meat-based specialities such as veal with olives, lamb casserole, or traditional charcuterie .

Indispensable ingredients of Corsican cuisine also include chestnut, delicious olive oil , figs, and herbs from the maquis. Strong-tasting cheeses , jams and preserves, as well as distinct local honey , are also a must-try for lovers of gourmet experiences.

To complement the traditional Corsican specialties match them with mouth-watering insular wines originating from one of the island’s nine wine regions. The most reputable Patrimonio Appellation offers fruity Niellucciu reds and aromatic Vermentinu whites. To accompany your dessert choose a sweet-tasting delicate Muscat du Cap Corse.

Beer enthusiasts will appreciate a glass of refreshing Pietra brewed with chestnut flour for the most authentic Corsican flavour.

What to eat and drink in Corsica – traditional Corsican cuisine

Celebrated wines of Patrimonio

7 best Corsican wine and food pairings

Wine lover’s companion for a trip to Corsica – Grab your ebook!

Corsica Wine Guide – from vine to glass

✓ 9 wine regions

✓ 74 producers

✓ 125 wines

11. AVOID APPROACHING FREE ROAMING ANIMALS

Having played a crucial role in Corsica’s economic, cultural, and ecological sectors, animals are not just vital to the island’s identity but also cherished. Livestock such as goats, sheep, pigs, or cows thrive mainly on the local pastures, however, you will sometimes encounter them grazing by the road, in forests, and even on beaches .

However tempting it may be to approach them, keep your distance, respecting animals’ space and their natural habitats. Sadly, there have been instances in Corsica of fatal accidents resulting from an encounter with free-roaming cows, while rambling pigs are well-known lunch box thieves.

Stay particularly vigilant if you notice adults with their offspring. Protective behaviours focused on safeguarding the young may even turn aggressive.

Best things to do in Corsica with children

A Cupulatta – a family adventure for turtle lovers

HELPFUL TRAVEL RESOURCES

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Dear Friends, my name is Karolina (Karola for short) and I live on the beautiful northern coast of Corsica, the best place on earth! I hope that my travels around this incredible Mediterranean island can inspire your journeys and help create long-lasting holiday memories. Wishing you joy on your adventures - K.

IS CORSICA A SAFE PLACE TO VISIT – TRAVEL ADVICE AND TIPS

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Corsica Tours & Trips

• Choose from 22 Corsica tours
• 48 verified reviews from TourRadar travelers
• 24/7 customer support

10 best Corsica tour packages

Compiled by

Melissa Corsica travel expert at TourRadar

Corsica Voyage: 8-Day Escorted Adventure

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• In-depth Cultural
• Taste AOC wines and visit San-Antonino
• See UNESCO sites: Calanques of Piana and Gulf of Porto
• Explore Bonifacio's cliffs on a scenic boat ride

“Excellent hotel with great food. Atmospheric village in a remote spot. Great scenery.” John Rhodes, traveled in January 2013

• Mountain Hikes
• Hiking & Trekking
• Visit the citadel and museums in Corte
• Explore the quaint village of Bocognano
• Walk the historic Tavignano Gorge trail

• Island Hopping
• Sightseeing
• Tour the cliffs and caves of Bonifacio
• Taste wines in the village of Calvi
• Enjoy a Sardinian feast in Bosa

“Amazing journey with Europe Active, the tracks are starting from beginners to advanced, nice countryside, good food, lots of souvenirs!” John Edo, traveled in April 2024

• Relax on the pristine sands of Saleccia Beach
• Start your journey with a scenic off-road ride
• Explore the rugged beauty of Nebbiu by bike

“Excellent crew, great food, interesting tours, superb entertainment and first rate service and hospitality.” Ross Edlund, traveled in June 2023

• River Cruise
• Visit Napoleon's birthplace in Ajaccio
• Relax on the stunning beaches of Palombaggia
• Enjoy a welcome cocktail and onboard activities

• Sail around the cliffs and caves of Fazio
• Discover the UNESCO-listed Gulf of Porto
• Tour Ajaccio and visit Napoleon's baptism site

• Stroll through Calvi's Genoese citadel
• Visit Monticello and its lively village square
• Explore Bastia's old port and citadel

• Wine tasting in Calvi and villages of Balagne
• Tour Alghero and Capo Caccia Natural Reserve
• Explore Cagliari's historic neighborhoods

• Swim under I Spiazzi footbridge
• Enjoy views from refuge of Prati
• Start your hike in the scenic Vizzavona

• Ocean Cruise
• Taste Corsican liquors in Bonifacio
• Attend a Corsican music dinner in the inland
• Hike through the dramatic Calanques de Piana

Other Regions in Corsica

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