north korea travel to switzerland

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THE NATIONAL COMMITTEE

On north korea.

The Impartial Intermediary: An Overview of Switzerland-North Korea Relations

National committee on north korea & east-west center in washington, september 22, 2023, 11:00 am edt to 12:00 pm edt.

Friday, September 22 11:00-12:00 PM EDT Virtual Webinar via Zoom

Katherina zellweger founder, koraid limited former dprk country director, swiss agency for development and cooperation ross tokola (moderator) programs manager, east-west center in washington.

While formal diplomatic relations between Switzerland and North Korea were established in 1974, the neutral nation has served as an intermediary for Western engagement since the end of the Korean War. Switzerland's role as a facilitator of political dialogue and humanitarian efforts between North Korea and the western world remained crucial to peacekeeping efforts on the Peninsula up to the onset of the pandemic. How has Switzerland been able to maintain its neutrality in the nuclear era? What can other global actors learn from Switzerland's engagement efforts?   Join the National Committee on North Korea and the East-West Center in Washington for a special edition of North Korea in the World featuring Katharina Zellweger, the former North Korea country director for the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation, and a veteran of extensive humanitarian engagement in the country. She will discuss her tenure in Pyongyang, strategies for effective engagement with North Korea, and her perspective on the past, present and future of DPRK-Swiss relations.  This webinar is a special edition episode of North Korea in the World, which examined North Korea's historical and contemporary relations with countries in Europe and how those countries navigate relations between the United States, South Korea, and North Korea. It follows a prior North Korea in the World webinar series on North Korea’s relations with countries across the Global South. The North Korea in the World project is a joint initiative of the National Committee on North Korea and the East-West Center in Washington; the NorthKoreaInTheWorld.org website collects and curates information and data on North Korea’s external economic and diplomatic relations. This on-the-record webinar will take place entirely on Zoom and will be available for viewing afterwards on NCNK's YouTube channel. 

About the Speakers

Katharina Zellweger  manages KorAid Limited, an NGO which she established in 2015, based in Hong Kong, to focus on serving children in institutions and people with disabilities in North Korea and in China. KorAid has further potential for engagement in additional projects in these countries. Zellweger brings over 30 years of field experience as a senior aid manager in Hong Kong, China and North Korea to this undertaking.  She was based in Pyongyang for five years (2006-2011) as the North Korea country director for the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation (SDC), an office of the Swiss Ministry of Foreign Affairs.  At SDC her work focused on sustainable agricultural production to address food security issues, income generation to improve people’s livelihoods, and capacity development to contribute to individual and institutional learning. Before joining SDC, from 1978 to 2006, Zellweger worked in a senior capacity at Caritas-Hong Kong, a Catholic agency, playing a key role in pioneering the Caritas involvement in China and in North Korea.

After her time in Pyongyang, Zellweger was for two academic years a visiting fellow at the Asia Pacific Research Center and for a number of years a North Korea Program Affiliate at the Center for International Security and Cooperation, both at Stanford University in California. Today she is still a network affiliate there.  She is an expert and frequent presenter on the current situation of the North Korean people, giving talks to audiences in the U.S., Europe, and elsewhere. She has also made significant contributions to the field through her participation in workshops, seminars, and conferences concerning both humanitarian and security issues on the Korean peninsula, most specifically regarding North Korea.  Katharina Zellweger has a master’s degree in International Administration from the School for International Training in Brattleboro, Vermont.  In 2006, she received the honor of a Dame of St. Gregory the Great from the Vatican for her work in North Korea.

Ross Tokola  is a Programs Manager at the East-West Center in Washington, responsible for EWC congressional staff programs on the Indo-Pacific region, for visiting fellowships, for publications as well as for projects pertaining to the Korean Peninsula. Previously, Mr. Tokola was a Program Officer at the Asan Institute for Policy Studies during his five years in Seoul, and worked for the US embassies both in the Republic of Korea and in the United Kingdom. In Washington, DC, he interned for the US House of Representatives Committee on Ways and Means, carried out research projects on behalf of US-based Korea policy experts, and was Assistant Editor for The Asan Forum: An Online Journal. In addition to studying the Korean language at Sogang University in Seoul, he holds a first class honors B.A. and M.A. in Philosophy from Heythrop College, University of London, and a M.Phil. in International Relations from the Department of Politics and International Studies at the University of Cambridge.

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Can North Koreans Travel to Switzerland? – An Overview of the Requirements, Opportunities and Challenges

By Happy Sharer

Introduction

In recent years, the relationship between North Korea and other countries has become increasingly strained due to North Korea’s nuclear weapons program. As a result, many countries have imposed strict travel restrictions on North Korean citizens wishing to visit their country. Switzerland is one such country that has imposed travel restrictions on North Korean citizens.

The purpose of this article is to explore the restrictions placed on North Korean citizens wishing to visit Switzerland, the process for obtaining a visa, and the tourist opportunities available to North Korean visitors in Switzerland. Additionally, this article will discuss the potential economic and political implications of North Korean citizens visiting Switzerland.

Obtaining a Visa for North Koreans to Visit Switzerland

In order to visit Switzerland, North Korean citizens must apply for a visa from the Swiss embassy in Pyongyang. The application process requires a valid passport and a completed application form. In addition, applicants must provide evidence of financial resources, proof of health insurance, and a letter of invitation from a host in Switzerland.

Once the application is complete, it must be submitted to the Swiss embassy. Depending on the type of visa requested, the processing time may vary. It is important to note that approval of the visa is not guaranteed and is subject to review by the Swiss authorities. Furthermore, the Swiss government reserves the right to deny any visa application without providing an explanation.

It is worth noting that obtaining a visa for North Korean citizens to visit Switzerland could have potential economic and political implications. On the one hand, allowing North Korean citizens to visit Switzerland could open up new business opportunities between the two countries. On the other hand, there is a risk that North Korea could use the opportunity to gain access to sensitive information or technology.

Tourist Opportunities Available to North Korean Visitors in Switzerland

If approved, North Korean citizens will have the opportunity to explore the many attractions that Switzerland has to offer. Popular destinations include the cities of Zurich, Geneva and Basel, as well as the mountain resorts of Interlaken and Lucerne. There are also numerous museums, galleries and national parks to explore.

When compared to other popular tourist destinations, North Korean travelers’ experience in Switzerland can be quite unique. Unlike some other countries, Switzerland is known for its low crime rate and peaceful atmosphere. Additionally, the country’s public transportation system is highly efficient and reliable, making it easy to get around.

Finally, North Korean visitors should be aware of the cultural differences between their home country and Switzerland. For example, Switzerland has a much more relaxed attitude towards alcohol consumption than North Korea, and public displays of affection are more common in Switzerland.

In conclusion, this article has explored the restrictions placed on North Korean citizens wishing to visit Switzerland, the process for obtaining a visa, and the tourist opportunities available to North Korean visitors in Switzerland. Additionally, this article has discussed the potential economic and political implications of North Korean citizens visiting Switzerland.

It is clear that North Korean citizens wishing to visit Switzerland must adhere to the strict visa requirements set forth by the Swiss government. However, if approved, North Korean travelers will have the opportunity to explore the many attractions that Switzerland has to offer. Finally, North Korean visitors should be aware of the cultural differences between their home country and Switzerland.

Overall, visiting Switzerland can be a rewarding experience for North Korean citizens, but they should be aware of the potential risks and implications associated with travelling to the country.

(Note: Is this article not meeting your expectations? Do you have knowledge or insights to share? Unlock new opportunities and expand your reach by joining our authors team. Click Registration to join us and share your expertise with our readers.)

Hi, I'm Happy Sharer and I love sharing interesting and useful knowledge with others. I have a passion for learning and enjoy explaining complex concepts in a simple way.

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Can North Koreans Travel Abroad? (2021)

By Gergo Vaczi

Can North Koreans Travel Abroad?

Simply put yes North Koreans can travel abroad. However, only a selected few.

So how do North Koreans Travel Abroad?

We often say that the North Korean experience starts at Beijing Airport at the Air Koryo check-in counter.

The check-in process from the passenger’s point of view for Air Koryo is like for any other airlines at Beijing Capital Airport, only that it’s much slower.

The reason for that is twofold;

1. Air Koryo is cut off from the international ticketing systems as a result of the sanctions and hence each passenger’s name has to be identified on a printout passenger list and put into the Air China Ground Handling system manually.

2. Koreans travelling home tend to have a lot of check-in luggage which slows down the whole process.

(NB: Air Koryo allows plus 10kg on Business Class for the Beijing-Pyongyang route than the other way round).

This is amplified by the fact that Beijing security screening takes place at the check-in desks.

A typical scene at the Air Koryo check-in counter is long queues of trolleys packed with suitcases and carton boxes and people chatting and negotiating with Air Koryo ground staff.

(Not to mention the duty-free shops where Korean who return from overseas stock up on 7 Star and Mevious cigarettes, and whiskey.) 

One of the most typical realization of travellers who check-in into an Air Koryo flight is “oh, I didn’t know North Koreans can travel abroad” which leads to the question;

“Who are these Koreans”?

A Brief History of North Koreans Abroad

During the Korean War (1950-1953) North Korea sent orphans of war and students to study in allied socialist countries. 

In November 1951, 200 orphans of war arrived at the Hungarian capital, followed by 21 students in January 1952 to study at universities, colleges, and polytechnics. Throughout the 1950s, around 1,000 Koreans lived in Hungary. Among them, 379 studied at different universities.

According to Hungarian archives, in 1953, North Korea planned to send around 1,500 students to study abroad while Lankov claims that ca. 1,800 Koreans lived in the Soviet Union during the 1940s and 1950s.

Some of these students married to women in their host countries and returned with them throughout the 1950s.

In 1962, there were Soviet (around 70-80) and East European wives living in North Korea, among them 2 Hungarians. 

Throughout the 1960s the number of Koreans living and studying abroad decreased dramatically as the country started to shift away from the Soviet Union and systematically closed down. This was also the time when foreign wives were urged to divorce and return to their homelands.

Korean students in Hungary reappeared again in the 1970s until the late 1980s when Hungary set up economic and diplomatic relations with South Korea.

From the 1980s till the 2010s some North Koreans even visited the US on international school trips, as well as experts in agriculture and computer science. 

Who are the North Koreans that Travel Abroad? 

Travel for leisure is unknown for North Koreans. At least internationally.

Domestic tourism In North Korea has been on the rise since 2018.

Also, it doesn’t mean that an official trip overseas can’t have leisurely elements like sightseeing, excursions, shopping, and the culinary experience. They certainly do.

Leisure tourism apart, North Koreans travel for the same reason as nationals of other countries do; business, exchanges, conferences, international sports events, medical treatment, study and work.

I personally know or met North Koreans who have been to African countries, Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, Cuba, Hungary, Lebanon, Mongolia, Poland, Russia (USSR), South Korea, Switzerland, the UK, and Vietnam.

China and Russia estimated to have up to 20,000 Korean guest works and students, and there used to be a considerable number of Korean guest workers in countries of the Persian Gulf.

Obtaining a passport is not easy though, and they have to be submitted to the authorities upon return from overseas.

Since the 2000s the DPRK started to issue certificates to travel to China and Koreans holding these documents – mostly merchants – can stay for up to 4 days without a visa.

Koryo Tours North Korea Tours

Gergo Vaczi

Greg is the Koryo Tours DPRK Tour Manager.

He grew up in post-socialist Hungary and first travelled to North Korea as a tourist in 2016 following in the footsteps of his grandparents, who visited in 1988. He has since lived in the Netherlands, Israel, China, Korea and Iceland and holds a degree in Sociology and Anthropology. He has taken 26 groups to North Korea and lived in Seoul studying the Korean language full-time for two years. He also completed a long study course in Korean at a university in Pyongyang.

Read more about Greg's journey to become a North Korean Tour Leader  here.

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Are North Koreans Allowed to Travel Abroad?

North Koreans are technically allowed to travel abroad, but they’re subject to multiple restrictions, including needing to have government approval to travel internationally.

In practice, the North Korean government rarely permits citizens to travel abroad.

At most, government officials, high-ranking military personnel, athletes, and artists, are allowed to travel internationally only for work.

The North Korean passport gives access to 8 countries for visa-free travel, and citizens can visit another 42 countries on an e-visa or visa on arrival.

Table of Contents

• 1 North Koreans Need Government Approval to Travel
• 2 Some North Korean Citizens Can Travel Abroad
• 3 North Koreans Can Travel to Almost Anywhere in the World
• 4 Countries North Koreans Can Travel to
• 5 The Process for North Koreans Who Want to Travel
• 6 Why North Koreans Aren’t Allowed to Travel
• 7 You Can Visit North Korea as a Tourist

North Koreans Need Government Approval to Travel

North Koreans are permitted to travel abroad with their government’s permission.

Technically, North Korean citizens have no official restrictions from traveling to other countries. But it’s still difficult for them to leave. 

The North Korean government rarely permits citizens to leave the country for any reason. They also tightly regulate travel between North Korea and the rest of the world.

So while North Koreans are allowed to travel abroad on paper, they’re rarely given the opportunity or approval to do so. 

Some North Korean Citizens Can Travel Abroad

The North Korean government permits only a small number of citizens to travel abroad, mostly for work purposes.

North Korean athletes, artists, and officials are permitted to travel abroad for work purposes only, but even they are subject to tight regulation and rarely get to leave. 

It’s even rarer, but not impossible, for North Korean citizens to travel abroad as long as it is for medical or educational purposes, although a few are able to do so.

Overall, a very small percentage of the North Korean population is permitted to travel abroad. 

North Koreans Can Travel to Almost Anywhere in the World

North Korean citizens can travel anywhere in the world where they have a valid visa, and their government permits them to go.

North Koreans cannot go to Sri Lanka or Japan as they are completely banned from these two countries.

Countries North Koreans Can Travel to

North Korean passport holders are given visa-free travel to the following eight countries: 

• Dominica 
• The Gambia 
• Guyana 
• Haiti 
• Kyrgyzstan 
• Micronesia 
• Palestine 
• St. Vincent and the Grenadines 

North Koreans also have eVisa and visa on arrival in another 42 countries.

The Process for North Koreans Who Want to Travel

There is no official or public information on the process for North Korean citizens who want to travel abroad.

But there is some information out there.

North Korean citizens who are issued passports are normally expected to have clean backgrounds. Most high-ranking members of the country’s armed forces and government receive these. 

Ordinary North Koreans are less likely to receive passports in most instances.

Some North Koreans get a visa for a labor program with Russia . They’ve also recently begun issuing certificates to travel to China for merchants. These certificates permit a stay in China for up to 4 days without a visa. 

Why North Koreans Aren’t Allowed to Travel

North Koreans aren’t allowed to travel for geopolitical and historical reasons.

North Korea is a traditional ally of China and an enemy of western countries, plus Japan and South Korea.

Most other countries don’t have diplomatic relations with North Korea. And the country is one of the world’s most isolationist. 

The North Korean government also prevents citizens from traveling abroad to avoid defections and loss of power.

Many North Korean citizens attempt to flee the country every year, which worries the government.

So they prevent citizens from leaving to hold onto power. 

You Can Visit North Korea as a Tourist

Tourists are allowed in North Korea, subject to multiple restrictions by the government.

All tourism is state-controlled in North Korea.

So all tourism businesses in the country are also state-owned bureaus.

This includes the Korea International Travel Company (KITC), the Korean International Sports Travel Company (KISTC), and the Korea International Youth and Children’s Travel Company ( KIYTC ). 

All tourists in North Korea are required to be part of guided tours, so tourists cannot freely wander the country.

Most of these tours are also restricted to the capital city of Pyongyang

In conclusion:

• North Koreans are allowed to travel internationally if their government approves it, but this approval is rarely given to most citizens.
• The North Korean government rarely lets citizens travel abroad due to political reasons.
• The country’s government fears defections and a loss of control if citizens are allowed to travel freely.
• Tourism is still permitted in North Korea, but it’s highly regulated.
• All tourists are required to participate in state-approved guided tours. They cannot freely move in the country or travel wherever they want.
• Most of these tours have also historically been restricted to the country’s capital, Pyongyang. 

Ella Dunham

Ella Dunham, a Freelance Travel Journalist and Marketing Manager, boasts an impressive career spanning eight years in the travel and tourism sectors.

Honored as one of "30 Under 30" by TTG Media (the world’s very first weekly travel trade newspaper), a "Tour Operator Travel Guru" and "Legend Award" winner, Ella is also a Fellow of the Institute of Travel, a Member of the Association of Women Travel Executives, has completed over 250 travel modules, and hosts travel-focused segments on national radio shows where she provides insights on travel regulations and destinations.

Ella has visited over 40 countries (with 10 more planned this year).

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North Korea (Democratic People's Republic of Korea) Travel Advisory

Travel advisory july 24, 2023, north korea - level 4: do not travel.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Do not travel to North Korea due to  the continuing serious risk of arrest and long-term detention of U.S. nationals.  Exercise increased caution to North Korea due to  the critical threat of wrongful detention.

• All U.S. passports are invalid for travel to, in, or through the DPRK unless specially validated for such travel under the authority of the Secretary of State. 
• Special validations are granted only in very limited circumstances. More information on how to apply for the special validation is available  here .

The U.S. government is unable to provide emergency services to U.S. citizens in North Korea as it does not have diplomatic or consular relations with North Korea. Sweden serves as the protecting power for the United States in North Korea, providing limited emergency services. The North Korean government routinely delays or denies Swedish officials access to detained U.S. citizens.

Due to risks to civil aviation operating within or in the vicinity of North Korea, the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has issued a Notice to Air Missions (NOTAM) and/or a Special Federal Aviation Regulation (SFAR). For more information U.S. citizens should consult the  Federal Aviation Administration’s Prohibitions, Restrictions and Notices .

Read the  country information page  for additional information on travel to North Korea.

If you receive a special validation to travel to North Korea:

• Draft a will and designate appropriate insurance beneficiaries and/or power of attorney.
• Discuss a plan with loved ones regarding care/custody of children, pets, property, belongings, non-liquid assets (collections, artwork, etc.), funeral wishes, etc.
• Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel.
• Prepare a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

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North Korea

Explore the Mysterious Land of North Korea

What countries can visit north korea?

Since North Korea opened its borders to tourism in 1987, visitors have been able to explore the country and get a glimpse into the daily lives of its citizens. While tourism is still tightly controlled by the government, travelers can now visit a number of different cities and towns, including the capital Pyongyang.

If you’re thinking of taking a trip to North Korea, there are a few things you need to know. First, all visitors must obtain a visa in advance, and must be part of an organized tour group. Second, you’ll be closely monitored throughout your stay by government-appointed guides. And third, don’t expect to be able to use your cell phone or access the internet—both are strictly forbidden.

Despite these restrictions, many people are drawn to North Korea’s unique history and culture. So if you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path travel destination, North Korea may be the perfect place for you.

There are very few countries that are able to visit North Korea. Some of the countries that are able to visit North Korea are China, Russia, and a few others.

Which countries citizens can go to North Korea?

If you wish to visit North Korea, you can do so by entering through China or Russia. You can travel by air or by train, and holders of diplomatic or service passports from certain countries are able to visit without a visa.

As of February 2023, North Korean passport holders can travel visa free to 10 countries and territories:

Belarus Cook Islands Dominica Guyana Haiti Kyrgyzstan Micronesia Niue

This is great news for North Korean citizens, as it will allow them to travel more easily to a number of different countries. We hope that this will lead to increased understanding and cooperation between North Korea and the rest of the world.

How many countries can North Korea visit

The North Korean passport is considered one of the lowest ranking passports in the world. North Korean passport holders have visa-free access to only 38 destinations including Dominica, Madagascar and Seychelles. There are 191 destinations for which a North Korean passport holder requires to obtain a visa prior to traveling.

The only country that North Korea restricts visitors from is South Korea (the Republic of Korea). Citizens of South Korea need special permission from both governments in order to visit North Korea.

Can Americans visit North Korea?

The State Department has now imposed additional restrictions that will further limit Americans’ ability to travel to North Korea. Americans will now be required to obtain a special validation from the State Department in order to travel to North Korea. This restriction is in addition to the existing travel ban that prohibits American citizens from traveling to North Korea.

Due to the current situation with North Korea, tourists are not able to use their US passport to travel there. Special validations from the Department of State are required in order to do so, and these are only given out if it is in the US national interest. Tourists are considered to be participating in activities at their own risk.

Does North Korea allow tourists?

If you are traveling to North Korea, you will need a visa in order to enter the country. If you arrive without a valid visa, you may be subject to detention or arrest.

Foreigners can enter North Korea by air or by train. All visitors must have a valid passport and a visa. Tourist visas are only available through licensed tour operators.

Can I travel to North Korea as a tourist

North Korea is a country that is tightly controlled by the government. Tourism is no exception to this rule. Tourists can only visit the country on pre-booked guided tours. There are a handful of long-established companies that specialize in arranging tours of North Korea.

Can a North Korean go to Switzerland?

Yes, North Koreans can travel abroad. They are allowed to leave the country for humanitarian reasons, to participate in international events, or for work purposes. However, they must obtain permission from the government in order to do so.

The citizens of South Korea require special permission from both governments to enter North Korea. They are typically not granted such permission for regular tourism except in special tourist areas designated for South Koreans.

Can a Mexican go to North Korea

There is a common misconception that only westerners are restricted from travel to North Korea. However, the only nationalities restricted from travel to the DPRK are tourists travelling on South Korean (Republic of Korea) and United States of America (USA) passports. All other nationalities are legally allowed to visit North Korea.

North Korea is a country that strictly controls emigration and immigration. North Korean citizens usually cannot freely travel around the country, let alone travel abroad. This is because the North Korean government wants to keep its citizens from knowing too much about the outside world and from leaving the country.

What things are illegal in North Korea?

The government of North Korea strictly controls all media within the country. Accessing phones, computers, televisions, radios or media content that are not sanctioned by the government is illegal, and considered “anti-socialist behavior” to be severely punished. The government regularly cracks down on unsanctioned media consumption.

North Korea is a country located in East Asia. It is bordered by China to the north, and by South Korea to the south. It has a population of about 25 million people, and its capital city is Pyongyang.

The government of North Korea is a dictatorship, and the country is not very friendly to foreigners. In fact, it is illegal for US citizens to travel to North Korea. This is because the government of North Korea does not want foreigners to see the conditions that its citizens live in.

If you are a US citizen, and you want to visit North Korea, you will need to get a special visa from the government of North Korea. This can be very difficult to do, and it is not recommended that you try to visit North Korea without the proper documentation.

There are very few countries in the world that are able to visit North Korea. The reasons for this are political and North Korea’s lack of relations with most of the world. The only countries that are able to visit North Korea are Russia, China, and a few select countries in Europe.

Although North Korea is technically open to visitors from any country, in reality, only a handful of nationalities are able to obtain a tourist visa. Visitors from China, Malaysia, Singapore, and the Philippines are among the few that North Korea permits to enter the country. All other visitors must obtain a special permit, which is typically only granted to those with family ties or business interests in North Korea.

Neil Lawrence

Neil Lawrence is an expert on North Korea, having studied the country and its people for years. He has written extensively about the nation's politics, culture, and history. He has traveled to North Korea multiple times, gathering firsthand information and insights from people who live there. Neil is passionate about helping others understand North Korea.

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I've been to North Korea more than 180 times. Here's how tourists can stay out of trouble.

• Simon Cockerell, a tour operator, has visited North Korea more than 180 times.
• North Korea is opening partially to tourism for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic.
• He said visiting can be full of pitfalls, like mentioning religion or South Korea.

This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Simon Cockerell, a manager at the travel agency Koryo Tours. It has been edited for length and clarity.

The first time I went to North Korea, I thought I knew what to expect.

I was living in Beijing at the time, which was near North Korea. I figured it would be a bit like China or a bit like Russia.

There are definitely those elements, especially if you look for them; but the reality is that it is its own place.

In the two decades since then, I've visited North Korea more than 180 times on various tours and trips — perhaps the most of any Westerner.

North Korea has been closed to visitors for almost five years, but is partially opening up to tourists at the end of 2024.

I've shown hundreds of visitors around the country over the years, and if you've ever thought of visiting, this is how to get the most out of a trip to North Korea.

Careful what you talk about

Interacting with the local people and tour guides in the country is not like meeting aliens — it's actually one of my favorite things to do. The fact remains though, that when you're allowed to interact with them, you need to watch what you talk about.

You don't have to go around praising North Korea's leaders, but openly criticizing Kim Jong Un is a definite no-no.

I'm technically allowed to talk about what I want because I'm not a North Korean, but I am also aware that people there don't have that freedom.

Related stories

So if I go over there and say, "Oh, hey guys, I want to tell you the truth about your leaders, they're actually quite terrible," I'm putting them in a very, very dangerous position.

Tourism is important to some people there, but nothing is more important than the perception of national security.

You can find some common ground to talk about, but you have to work at it because your cultural references are all completely different. So you can't say, "Oh my gosh, did you see 'Deadpool & Wolverine?'" because they will have no idea what you're talking about.

Absolutely no religious talk

This is the most common reason foreigners get detained in North Korea.

Most of the ways tourists get into trouble in North Korea is for acts that have been pre-meditated, like leaving a Bible behind, handing out religious material, or bringing in other contraband.

Don't take in or leave behind contraband

South Korean cultural products like Korean dramas or K-pop songs should definitely be left behind before coming into North Korea.

Other things on the list include religious material and any material about North Korea published abroad, whether it's literature, guidebooks, or videos.

Then you have the usual — no weaponry, no narcotics. North Korea is actually very permissive about alcohol consumption, so that's OK.

Steer clear of comparisons to South Korea

A lot of tourists who come to North Korea have experience in South Korea as well (it's not true that visiting South Korea makes it difficult to enter North Korea).

These people tend to think "Okay, this is where we will connect. Let me tell you about my life in South Korea!"

The problem is that comparisons between North and South Korea tend to favor the South, and you can imagine people don't like to hear it.

When we lead trips, we tell people "If this is your only conversation, maybe learn to have another conversation."

About 90% of the country is off-limits — so don't wander off

Part of my role as a tour operator has been to be a sort of guinea pig, visiting areas of the country the government is thinking of opening to tourism.

I've seen beautiful seasides with basalt columns and other places tourists still haven't been allowed to visit.

Something like 90% of the country is off-limits for tourists both legally and logistically. Horrific poverty means that there's not much infrastructure conducive to tourism outside approved areas.

There are also military bases and operations throughout the country that are off-limits for obvious reasons.

I would definitely advise that tourists stay with their guides at all times, and not wander off for some personal adventure.

Ask permission to take pictures

Everybody likes to take photos, it's quite understandable. As tour operators, we've seen everything you can imagine. Sometimes someone will take a picture when they're not supposed to.

People seem to think it's off to the gulag as soon as you do something wrong. The worst that I've seen is that they get asked to delete it and not do it again — but it's always best not to try to sneak pictures when you think nobody is looking.

At the end of the day, it's very simple — all you have to do is not break the law. In general, if you don't think you can go into any country without breaking their laws, you probably shouldn't be anywhere near that country — especially if the country is North Korea.

It's the most difficult, complicated, thankless, and endlessly fascinating country I've been to.

Watch: North Korea flies warplanes near South Korea border, triggering drills

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Bilateral Relations Switzerland–Democratic People's Republic of Korea

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Switzerland is involved in North Korea within the framework of peace promotion and humanitarian assistance efforts. Within the framework of its good offices, Switzerland has on several occasions assumed the role of facilitator by hosting mediation meetings.

Key Aspects of Diplomatic Relations

Switzerland is present in the Democratic People's Republic of Korea through a humanitarian aid programme. In addition, it maintains regular political dialogue with North Korea.

Switzerland is also a member of the Neutral Nations Supervisory Commission (NNSC), which is the legal instrument aimed at preventing hostilities on the Korean peninsula.

Diplomatic responsibility for North Korea lies with the embassy in Beijing, while the SDC cooperation office in North Korea is responsible for humanitarian aid. Since the start of the 2020 pandemic, the cooperation office's humanitarian activities have been suspended, owing to the country's lockdown. 

North Korea maintains both an embassy in Bern and a permanent mission to the UN in Geneva.

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Economic relations and trade between the two countries are on a modest scale. Switzerland rigorously applies UN sanctions against North Korea through the State Secretariat for Economic Affairs (SECO).

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North Korean researchers are eligible to apply for Swiss Government Excellence Scholarships.

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Humanitarian Aid

In 1995, the SDC implemented a humanitarian aid programme in North Korea to alleviate the suffering of the population severely affected by famine. Switzerland subsequently opened a cooperation office in Pyongyang in 1997 and for a time focused its activities on development cooperation. 

Since 2012, Switzerland has been operating a strictly humanitarian programme in North Korea. 

Since the start of the COVID-19 pandemic, North Korea has been in full lockdown and inaccessible to foreign personnel. SDC programmes on the ground have therefore been suspended since March 2020.

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Les Suissesses et les Suisses en Corée du Nord

At the end of 2021, there was one Swiss national living in North Korea.

History of Bilateral Relations

In 1953, at the end of the Korean War, the NNSC appointed Switzerland to monitor the demarcation line between North and South Korea. This was the Swiss Armed Forces' first mission abroad. In 1974, Switzerland established diplomatic relations with North Korea.

Between 1997 and 1999, Switzerland hosted quadripartite talks between the two Koreas, China and the United States in Geneva. It also hosted three other important meetings between the United States and North Korea on the normalisation of their bilateral relations and the conditions for a resumption of the six-party talks on the denuclearisation of North Korea.

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North Korea fascinates many people. For South Koreans, its threat is just part of life

By Tobi Loftus

Topic: World Politics

It is a somewhat standard Thursday lunch at Oh Young Seok's restaurant near the border of South Korea and North Korea.

Tourists file in to try the restaurant's speciality — beans and tofu — while South Korean soldiers patrolling the nearby demilitarised zone (DMZ) stop by for a bite.

Oh Young Seok says running a restaurant near the DMZ is no different to running one elsewhere in South Korea. ( ABC News: Tobi Loftus )

Recent events have brought heightened tensions to the region.

The area was on high alert as balloons filled with rubbish and human waste flew across the border, on their way to Seoul, the sprawling South Korean capital just over 50 kilometres away.

One of the speciality bean dishes at Oh Young Seok's restaurant. ( ABC News: Tobi Loftus )

While such incidents might seem extraordinary to outsiders, for Mr Oh, they have become a routine part of life.

"There are some dangerous incidents that occur … but because I've gone through similar situations like this, I've become very used to this," he said.

He said that included times when some residents may have gotten too close to the border, or defectors crossing from North to South — though he said that was "very rare".

"I don't feel afraid or concerned about the situation between the two Koreas," he said.

"It's not very much different from running a restaurant elsewhere in Korea."

Mr Oh's outlook mirrors the broader sentiment in South Korea, where people live under the long-standing shadow of a war that has essentially been on pause since 1953.

 North Korea launched hundreds of trash-carrying balloons in June toward the South. ( Im Sun-suk/Yonhap via AP )

Tensions rising

In 1950, North Korea, with the support of the Soviet Union, invaded South Korea, which was supported by the United States of America.

At least 2.5 million people died in the three-year conflict, and tensions still simmer more than 70 years later.

North Korea is known as a hermit kingdom, led by a dynastical dictatorship passed between the Kim family — now headed up by Kim Jong Un.

The country is cut off from much of the world and was hit by sanctions as it advanced its nuclear program. 

The North is now predicted to have up to 80 nuclear warheads, according to the Asan Institute for Policy Studies, destabilising the region.

Kim Jong Un and Vladimir Putin in North Korea in 2024. ( Reuters: Korean Central News Agency )

In June, Russian president Vladimir Putin travelled to North Korea to meet Mr Kim . The two countries signed a mutual defence pact that meant each would aid the other in the face of "aggression".

Professor Kang Seonjou, from the South Korean government-owned Institute of Foreign Affairs and National Security think tank, said despite an escalation in recent months many South Koreans were not concerned by the developments.

"We feel the threat from North Korea has increased over the past several months and especially after the summit with president Putin," Professor Kang said.

"I think the threat from North Korea has become more substantial and more probabilistic. We can expect more provocative action from North Korea."

Kang Seonjou says Koreans day-to-day aren't interested in their northern neighbour.  ( ABC News: Tobi Loftus )

Despite the developments, the evolving geopolitical landscape is far from the minds of many South Koreans.

Professor Kang said day-to-day South Koreans were "generally uninterested" in their northern neighbour.

"The Korean public is very desensitised to the threat of North Korea. That's why they are not interested," she said.

South Korea is Australia's fourth-largest trading partner, with the partnership valued at almost $70 billion.  ( ABC News: Tobi Loftus )

Views about the North are changing

It's a Friday night in the centre of Seoul, and young people are out commemorating the end of the working week.

"We live our daily lives without thinking about North Korea," one young man told the ABC.

"It has always been present here, it doesn't really create issues in our everyday lives," a woman said.

But one young woman said she could not "ignore the fact tensions were rising" after a North Korean balloon landed near her house.

Her friend said she was sent government text message alerts about the balloons and she believed "it somehow may have affected the South Korean sentiment towards North Korea in a negative way".

South Korea's capital Seoul is only about 50km from the North Korean border.  ( ABC News: Tobi Loftus )

That sentiment is changing. According to the 2024 Asan Institute for Policy Studies' South Koreans and Their Neighbours poll, South Koreans expect the relationship between the two countries to get worse.

When asked about the future of inter-Korean relations, more than 66 per cent of respondents "expressed pessimism" due to increased tensions.

The results found younger generations tended to have a "relatively negative" attitude towards the Democratic People's Republic of Korea (DPRK).

For many in Seoul, despite how close the North is, the tensions have just become an everyday part of life.  ( ABC News: Tobi Loftus )

Sung Yoon Ri is a journalist with South Korean news network YTN. He has visited the North on multiple occasions.

"[South Koreans] are very nervous and worried about the development of the relationship between North Korea and Russia," he said.

"As Russia has the potential to help North Korea develop their cutting-edge weapons, like submarine-launched missiles or hypersonic missiles, nuclear powered submarines and miniaturised nuclear weapons.

"But Korean people are too accustomed to the [missile test] kind of situations. No one cares about North Korean missile launches."

Sung Yoon Ri is a journalist with YTN.  ( ABC News: Tobi Loftus )

Sung Yoon said while older generations in the country might be hopeful of one day seeing reunification of the two Koreas, younger generations weren't as keen.

"The youngest don't have the willingness to save assets for reunification, they don't care about reunification," he said.

"They feel very comfortable with today's situation."

He said Koreans would be watching the outcome of the United State's election closely, as that could also influence the future of their country's relationship with the North.

Former US president Donald Trump met Mr Kim on multiple occasions during his presidency.

But while South Koreans may be disinterested in their northern neighbour, many international visitors were fascinated by the situation.

Tourism potential

Seoul Tourism Organisation chief executive Ki Yon Kil said there were tens of thousands of tourists wanting to visit the DMZ every day.

Ki Yon Kil has visited North Korea.  ( ABC News: Tobi Loftus )

"It does impact the tourism industry greatly," he said.

"A lot of tourists in particular from the United States and European countries want to visit the DMZ area.

"Of course, the south-east Asian countries want to visit as well, but mostly the Western countries are particularly interested."

Back in Mr Oh's restaurant, life goes on despite the regional tensions.

More visitors stop by for their meal, and serving staff bring out sizzling pots of bean and tofu stew.

"A lot of tourists do ask me what it's like running a restaurant here [near the DMZ]," he said.

"But mostly, people come to visit and enjoy the tofu."

Tobi Loftus travelled to South Korea as a guest of the Walkley Foundation, the Korea Press Foundation and the Australia Korea Foundation.

North Korea Will Open Its Borders For International Tourists In December

• North Korea plans to reopen its borders to tourists in December 2024, with the first destination being Samjiyon city near the Chinese border.
• Tour operators like Koryo Tours and KTG Tours have received confirmation that international tourism will resume in North Korea at the end of 2024.
• Under Kim Jong Un's leadership, North Korea has been developing Samjiyon as a "socialist utopia," despite some officials being demoted for mishandling the project.

North Korea has one of the most heavily fortified borders on Earth, and it is indeed possible to visit , although it's always been tough to do so, particularly after the pandemic first swept the world. A highly reclusive nation, the country closed its doors to tourists in 2020 after the government put in place strict COVID-19 border controls.

However, according to tour operators, North Korea is all set to open its borders again and resume international tourism in December 2024. The secretive dictatorship will no longer be among the countries that tourists (especially Americans) can't travel to (that said, caution is advised for those who do; the US Department of State issued a Level 4: Do Not Travel advisory for North Korea on July 24, 2023).

Near the Chinese border, the northeastern city of Samjiyon will be the first to receive tourists, with the rest of the country possibly following soon.

According to the Beijing-based Koryo Tours website , the company has received confirmation from its local partner that tourism to Samjiyon and likely the rest of the country will officially resume in December 2024.

KTG Tours, another tour operator, also announced that international tourists would be able to visit Samjiyon in the winter of 2024.

The Other "North Koreas" Nobody Talks About

North Korea has a reputation for being a harsh and politically-driven country, but other countries share many similarities with North Korea.

International Flights

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In February 2023, a small group of Russian tourists flew into the country for a private tour, but North Korea has not been fully open to international tourists since 2020.

Since international flights resumed last year, a few diplomats, including Russian President Vladimir Putin in June, have also visited the reclusive Asian country.

Under Kim Jong Un's leadership, North Korea has been building a "socialist utopia" in Samjiyon, "a model of a highly civilized mountain city" with new apartments, hotels, a ski resort, and commercial, cultural, and medical facilities.

In July, some senior officials were demoted or removed for their "irresponsible" handling of his flagship Samjiyon project.