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Villa Baracoa

This city hotel, comprising a total of 34 rooms on 2 floors, is set in a converted colonial fort. Set at the top of an elevation, it offers guests panoramic views of the mountains, the city and one of the three bays situated close by. The famous Yunque de Baracoa can be clearly seen from the hotel. Alternative accommodation is additionally available at the Porto Santo complex, which is located next to Baracoa Bay and close to the airport. It is on a small private beach where, legend has it, Christopher Columbus planted the famous Cruz de Parra, considered the oldest religious object conserved from the Spanish presence in America. Facilities available to all guests include an entrance hall with 24-hour reception and a hotel safe. Guests may also take advantage of the on-site café, bar, restaurant, and parking.

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48 hours in Baracoa – discovering one of Cuba’s most unique places

A 48-hour stopover in Baracoa can be an incredible opportunity to discover one of Cuba’s most peculiar places and the island’s oldest settlement. There is a mystical air about this corner of the island and its remoteness alone has kept it hidden from the world for decades. From cocoa routes to trekking, beach-basking, and discovering the most colourful snail in the world, we tell you how to explore Baracoa in 48 hours. Read on!

Sleepy Baracoa is shrouded in mystical allure with legends galore. You might wonder what exactly it is that makes it so special, but just glancing around is sure to make you fall in love with its natural beauty and its blissful silence might lull you into a rather pleasant trance. Welcome to the slow lane, to an easy-going, naturally exuberant, and geographically privileged life. With an idyllic location at the mouth of a horseshoe-shaped bay, everywhere you look beauty will greet you .

Surrounded by lush mountains and sitting at the heart of a UNESCO-declared World Heritage Site and Natural Park, this provincial town is full of little discoveries to be made . Cut off from the world by high mountains and the sea, it was not until the construction of a road over and through the mountains that Baracoa was finally connected to the rest of Cuba in 1965. The road will be one of the highlights of your visit but since its construction not much has changed in this time warped zone. Cuba’s oldest, easternmost city is sure to captivate you .

One more thing, despite its beachside location, this part of Cuba is completely devoid of resorts of any kind (so far) and remains fairly undeveloped, so it still feels remote and off the beaten track despite its increasing popularity with tourists (both national and international) over the last few years.

But where to go and what to see in Baracoa if you have got roughly 48 hours? Read on to find out.

★ Day 1 in Baracoa – getting acquainted

To get a first taste of the city we recommend walking around town , exploring its streets, taking in the spectacular vistas over the horseshoe bay, checking out museums or hitting the, often, secluded beach; especially if you come in low season months, there’ll hardly be anyone there.

Viaducto La Farola

There is only one way to arrive in Baracoa by land and that is through the only road linking it to the rest of Cuba, in this case the city of Guantanamo . Said road was built on the sinuous mountain of “La Farola” and it’s an incredible feat of engineering, celebrated by how perfectly it blends in with the surrounding natural environment and how impressively it showcases the spectacular views along its entire length. It is one of “Cuba’s Seven Engineering Wonders” so make sure you take a good look at it as you traverse it by car or by bike.

The vistas from this mountain are amazing and the 30-kilometre-route is a head-turner whichever way you go . On the Guantanamo-Baracoa journey, the landscape changes from coastal desert to tropical rainforest and on the way, you can marvel at the dense vegetation, crystalline streams, and tall palm trees. From a distance the road looks like a thin line cutting through the most wondrously lush and dense vegetation. Just imagine that for over 400 centuries no such road existed, and Baracoa was only reachable by boat . Utter seclusion indeed.

Photographing (or climbing) a natural anvil of epic proportions

From almost any point in Baracoa you can look over the bay and marvel at Baracoa’s famous flat-topped mountain, El Yunque , a symbol of the city named thus because of its resemblance to an anvil. It not only makes for a photogenic shot, but it also has its fair bit of history. Poised some 500 metres above sea level it was the only witness of the clash of cultures that occurred when the Spaniards first arrived here in 1492 and met its native inhabitants, the Taino Amerindians. Legend has it that the mountain later served as refuge to Taino and African slaves escaping from their barracks and seeking freedom . In its surroundings, you will find the decadent ruins of once luxurious mansions built by the French who arrived in Cuba from Haiti fleeing revolution.

El Yunque is both a National Monument and a symbol of the “Primada City” , as Baracoa is also called, with “primada” meaning first. As we told you earlier Baracoa became Cuba’s first ever colonial settlement upon its foundation by the Spanish Conquistadores in 1511. Virtually wherever you stand in Baracoa, El Yunque is visible , so take as many photos of it as you can from different angles and viewpoints, then compare to see which one comes out as a clear winner (in your eyes at least!).

For a more immersive experience, you can also climb El Yunque, where first you will have to wade along Río Duaba , a scenic experience all of its own. For a hiking route you will not forget, on your way up you will be able to spot numerous birds, insects, and plant species along the way. The journey up and back down will take approximately four hours to complete. On your way down dive into Río Duaba’s waterfalls to cool down.

A city with many titles

Beyond being often referred to as Cuba’s first city, Baracoa also boasts several titles: “Landscape City” , “Water City” (because of the convergence of three rivers, Río Miel, Río Toa and Río Yumurí) and “City of Mountains” in reference to the city being wrapped around a chain of mountains bursting with exotic vegetation and virgin forests teeming with endemic flora and fauna. Crystalline rivers, virgin beaches fringed by sea grape shrubs, almond trees and coconut trees all unite to create a rather unique paradise. So, do watch out for its many natural wonders, whether you book a trekking adventure, indulge in some beach-basking or you venture out to explore on your own.

Meandering Baracoa’s old-world streets

There are a lot of picturesque sights to enjoy as you walk or cycle your way along downtown Baracoa and explore the city centre and beyond. You will soon notice how the majority of houses lined along the city’s main street are a mix of wooden plankboards and concrete one and two-story edifications painted in bright colours.

Pizzas and refreshments are sold from many of these houses’ windows. Absorbing provincial life in the quiet streets of Baracoa will quickly show you how different everything in this part of Cuba is compared to the rest of the country. Not only does the city and its residents have a more relaxed attitude, even by countryside standards, but everything here seems to be permeated in some kind of dreamlike status.

There is hardly any traffic aside from a few cyclists, pedestrians, the odd horse-drawn cart, or classic car. Yes, there is evident Cubanness (or “Cubania” as we prefer to call it) and a decidedly Cuban flavour in Baracoa, but of a different kind, which takes us to our next section: savouring Baracoa’s autochthonous cuisine.

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Discovering Baracoa’s peculiarly “coconutty” culinary culture

There are many dishes in Baracoa that you will only be able to taste here and nowhere else in Cuba . Its most typical and common dishes also include scrumptious deserts to sweeten the deal. For mains you can’t go wrong with “fricasé de carnero” (lamb fricassee, a nod to the town’s French heritage), “hallaca” (a kind of tamale cooked in corn leaves with pork inside), “bacán” (slow-cooked ground plaintain with pork inside, similar to hallaca but only in looks and not in taste) or any freshly caught produce from the sea with star catches including shrimps, lobster, octopus or the autochthonous “cojinua” . Some local restaurants also specialise in meats cooked with wine, especially chicken and mutton.

Here is another peculiarity, coconut milk is a key ingredient in Baracoan cuisine and one that you will hardly find used elsewhere in the country! It adds a depth of taste to many of the local dishes here. Bacán for example is served on a bowl of coconut milk as is the local “calalú” (the Cuban version of callaloo). You will find that many of the fresh seafood served here come bathed in coconut milk.

Vegetarians need not fear as delicious veggie options abound, and they include vegetables (yes, you have guessed it) dipped in coconut milk, grilled, and cooked with local wine or with bitter orange. Some veggies also come cooked in chocolate sauce (from locally grown cocoa) and there is selection of tasty pasta dishes.

Sweetening the deal

And for dessert? Probably Baracoa’s most famous dish is actually an artisanal sweet made in small local mini factories . Baracoa’s “cucurucho” can be enriched with multiple ingredients, typically: guava, papaya or pineapple but its main ingredient (surprise, surprise!) is the coconut, which is grated and cooked until shaped into a soft dough, which is when additional ingredients and spices are added. A real treat for those with a sweet tooth!

Another famous Baracoan dessert that you can also find in other parts of Cuba is the “coquito” , yet another recipe with coconut as its main and only ingredient. It consists of grated coconut slow cooked with sugar, then moulded into (typically) little balls or ovals and left to cool and harden. It is typically sold by street vendors or from private’s homes windows and a must-try!

Where to eat in Baracoa

To sink your teeth into some delicious local fare in Baracoa head to restaurant La Roca , a beautiful paladar housed on the upper floor of a residential two-story building. Like many other paladars, its owners live here and the service you get is as though you are eating at a friend’s home. Specialising in Caribbean fare with a Cuban twist, there are veggie options galore and attentive service by the dedicated chef who comes and checks on diners. Prepare for a family-style feast with finger-licking bites. On most nights, a local band livens up the atmosphere

Alternatively, you cannot go wrong at El Buen Sabor, winner of TripAdvidsor’s Traveller Choice Awards 2020 and famous for serving equally good local cuisine in hearty portions. With an open-roof terrace you can dine while looking over the city.

Another fabulous restaurant, especially for vegetarians, is La Colina, where you will simply fall in love with the veggie-friendly “calalú” cooked with locally grown “quimbombó” (okra). There are plenty of meat and seafood options too and the lobster coconut in coconut sauce is a winner. But this paladar steals the most hearts because of the sweeping city views and sea views it offers from its rooftop terrace.

Museum-exploring or beach-bumming?

After lunch on your first day in Baracoa you have a few options, you can continue exploring the town and checking out museums like checking the museum to admire “Cruz de la Parra” , or head to the beach. It all depends on your mood and whether you want to get to know the city better from a cultural and historical perspective or whether you prefer basking in its natural riches.

For delving into Baracoan history head to Museo Fuerte Matachín , housed inside an old and small fortress, the second of its kind to be built in Baracoa by Spanish Royal decree to further protect the city. The museum exhibits archaeological collections from the indigenous period in this part of Cuba as well as objects encompassing the colonial period, the French presence in the city, the independence wars, the Cuban Republic, and the Revolution.

Head to the Iglesia Cruz de Parra to witness the city’s most valuable historical piece and relic, the “Santa Cruz de la Parra” (The Holy Cross of the Vine), first erected on this land by Christopher Columbus himself upon his arrival on 3rd December 1492. He placed 29 of these all-over Latin America and this is the only one in the world which is still intact .

During your sightseeing journey stop by centric Plaza de la Independencia for a spot of people-watching under the shade of leafy trees.

Unwinding by the beach

If beach-basking is on your to-do list during your visit to Baracoa you will have to hire a taxi to take you to Maguana Beach , about 12 miles from the city centre. Spending an afternoon here, letting it all sink in while surrounded by the brightest shades of turquoise and emerald in the sparkling waters will make the trip here worth it. You can lay back on the powdery soft white sands or hire a lounger from locals and have the perfect ending to a perfect day. If you stay for sunset, all the better.

★ Day 2 – Trekking adventures

If there is one thing that Baracoa is most famous for, beyond its infectious laidback attitude, provincial life, and peculiar cuisine; that is its natural riches, which include some of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful wild sights. This is why a Baracoa holiday comes highly recommended for nature lovers, birdwatchers and adventure seekers .

Exploring the heart of a World Heritage Site

Alejandro de humboldt national park.

A world biosphere reserve which served as refuge for many species during the glacial and Miocene-Pleistocene eras, its rich diversity and conservation is one of its many draws. Named after the German geographer, geologist, naturist, and historian credited with having discovered this part of Cuba (also nicknamed Cuba’s second discoverer), this national park is of outstanding natural beauty in multiple ways.

Here you have a handful of options, hire rowboats to sail along the Yumurí River and then stop at a deserted beach for a swim and lunch or even better, book a full-day or half-day safari or trekking tour along “Cuchillas de Toa” . There are three main excursions to choose from, one spanning 3.5 kilometres, another 7 kilometres and a third one on a boat traversing the river that cuts through the park. Watch out for numerous bird species, among them the severely endangered ivory-billed woodpecker, the Cuban parrot, the Cuban parakeet, and a variety of hawk species.

One thing is for sure, there is no better place for discovering Cuba’s diverse ecosystem , indeed the best-preserved ones are all here.

The dense rainforest feels like a sanctuary of Mother Nature and there is so much to enjoy. You will come across coffee and cocoa plantations. Taking the cocoa route comes highly recommend as you learn where all of Cuba’s cocoa is grown and later processed into chocolate. From private and state-run cocoa farms to chocolate factories.

There are many species that you will only find here and nowhere else in the world, a clear example is the one we are about to introduce you to: the polymita .

The world’s most colourful snail

A visit to Alejandro Humboldt’s National Park must include an obligatory stop by “Cueva del Paraiso” , a cave system made up by three underground caverns where you can admire the world’s most endangered and most brightly coloured snails with shells that seem painted by hand into spiralling patterns. No matter how many of these you spot, none will be like the other, they have the peculiarity of each being unique.

Where to stay in Baracoa

Like most other places in Cuba, Baracoa has an ample selection of casas particulares , with varying levels of sophistication, but all with the essentials and the most attentive hosts, which is why we always recommend staying in a casa particular in Baracoa or anywhere else in Cuba . Not only do you give back to the locals and put money directly into their pockets, but you get the full local experience with a family host.

We recommend a stay at Casa Terraza Brisa del Mar , a three-story house offering two bedrooms fully equipped with air-conditioning, in-room bathroom, and personal fridge. Delicious home-cooked breakfasts are served on the rooftop terrace overlooking the bay. Likewise, Casa Bella Vista is directly poised overlooking the bay and offers even more spectacular vistas over the sea and El Yunque mountain with equally charming hosts. To be fair, you simply cannot go wrong with virtually any casa particular in Baracoa, we are simply highlighting two because choosing a casa particular in Baracoa is not this blog’s central theme.

★ Baracoa in a nutshell

It was upon landing near Baracoa that Christopher Columbus claimed this was:

“The most beautiful land that human eyes had ever seen.”

And this phrase has been taken to represent all of Cuba but it actually referred to this part of Cuba only, the first to be discovered. With a unique layout, a privileged setting secluded from the rest of the world, crisscrossed by several rivers, overlooking the sea, and surrounded by heavily forested tall mountains, Baracoa feels like an island within another island . Discovering it fully might be the highlight of any Cuba holiday and here we have shown you how to do just that in 48 hours.

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Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

by Doreen Pendgracs ·

Some people think I spend too much time on social media. But if I hadn’t participated in the #FoodTravelChat on Twitter earlier this year, I never would have connected with Roberto Jovel, an El Salvadorian now living with his Cuban partner Manuel Riquenes in Baracoa, a small town in the heart of Cuba’s Cocoa Country. Roberto and Manuel are the owners and hosts of a Casa Particular  called Villa Paradiso Baracoa , a guesthouse located in the heart of Eastern Cuba.

The views at Villa Paradiso Baracoa are lovely, offering both views of the town and of Miel bay.

villa paradiso baracoa is a beautiful casa particular in eastern cuba

I’d never stayed at a Casa Particular before, though I have stayed at B&B’s and guesthouses in various places including Maui and Costa Rica . A Cuban Casa Particular can be either. It can be a simple room in someone’s house as in a B&B or the AirBnB concept. Or it can be quite elaborate accommodations with incredible dinners at an additional cost, as in the case of Villa Paradiso Baracoa. The basic room charge is about $20/night. What a deal!

Manuel (pictured above) is always up early, cutting up fresh fruit and preparing a beautifully fresh breakfast for guests. The second floor outdoor space at Villa Paradiso Baracoa offers great views while you enjoy your breakfast or dinner.

I was very pleased with my accommodations at Villa Paradiso Baracoa and stayed in two different guestrooms during my five-night stay. Both were terrific, with views of the town and Miel Bay. It was spotlessly clean and quiet, with an international clientele to share stories with. During my stay, I met other travellers from France, Switzerland, and Italy. (Roberto speaks fluent English, Spanish, and French.) There are three guest rooms in total that can accommodate up to eight people.

There are many gorgeous pieces of art hanging throughout the Casa Particular, giving the main part of the house a gallery-like feeling. But Villa Paradiso didn’t start out that way. Roberto and Manuel personally guided the renovation process from an ordinary and fairly modest house in the area, to the masterpiece it is today.

This photo was sent to me by Roberto, and shows the construction of the main floor balcony at Villa Paradiso Baracoa.

Roberto and Manuel adapted the concrete staircases to the limestone rocks at Villa Paradiso. That was no easy task! This one leads up to the Gazebo up the hill that is available for shared use. If you have trouble navigating stairs, this is not the place for you.

Roberto and Manuel adapted concrete staircases to the limestone rocks at Villa Paradiso. That was no easy task, as the villa is situated on very uneven terrain. And they hand painted all the locally made rattan and wood furniture. It is truly a labour of love. But word is getting out! Villa Paradiso Baracoa was even full during the hot humid summer (I visited in July.) So be sure to reserve your room as far in advance as possible.

Roberto (left) and Manuel are super nice guys and the superb hosts of Villa Paradiso.

I truly want to thank Roberto and Manuel for inviting me to come stay at Villa Paradiso. It was one of the highlights of my visit to Eastern Cuba . And thanks again to the Cuban Tourist Board for orchestrating my itinerary, financing my travel costs, and providing me with a driver and translator/guide for the entirety of my trip.

Baracoa is in the heart of Cuba’s cocoa growing country.

Have you been to Baracoa? Have you investigated Cuba’s Ruta del Cacao ? Have you been lucky enough to stay at Villa Paradiso Baracoa? Please join the conversation. And stay tuned for more about my journey through Eastern Cuba.

Tags: Baracoa Caribbean Casa Particular chocolate travel cocoa growing regions Cuba Eastern Cuba great accommodations guesthouses Ruta Del Cacao Villa Paradiso Baracoa

Doreen Pendgracs

Known throughout the Web as the " Wizard of Words ", I've been a freelance writer since 1993. I researched and wrote Volume I of Chocolatour that won a Readers' favourite Award in 2014. Always enjoy experiencing new destinations and flavours.

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Lovely post, Doreen. Casas particulares are, in my mind, the only way to go when travelling around Cuba. We’ve stayed in resorts a few times, but after a day or two we can’t wait to get back to the casas.

I agree with you, Cynthia. I’ve stayed at some incredible beachfront resorts in Cuba and admit that I DO love being right on the beach. But their food is pretty crappy as it is generic and lacks local flavour. And their entertainment is so watered down compared to what you find in the cities. I feel really blessed to have stayed with Manuel and Roberto at their lovely casa particular in Baracoa.

What a great post and terrific pictures. We have stayed at Villa Paradiso and we loved it. Roberto and Manuel are wonderful hosts and they really love Baracoa, so we have learned so much from them about the best beaches, the farms, the music, great places to hike… we cannot wait to go back. Katheryne Schulz recently posted… Cuba Travel Photography – Spotlight On Baracoa

Hello Katheryne and welcome to Chocolatour! Yes, I, too, felt truly blessed to have stayed with Manuel and Roberto. They are both incredible hosts, and Villa Paradiso was the perfect place for me to stay while researching cacao in the area.

Cuba is on my travel list. Thanks so much for sharing!

I had never known what a Casa Particular meant, so this is some learning for me. The Villa Paradiso Baracoa looks enchanting. I particularly like the place where breakfast and dinner are served. Must be such a lovely experience to have a leisurely meal while feasting on those amazing views. Your posts about Cuba have really unveiled the lesser known facets of the country.

Thanks for your comment, Sandy. That’s precisely what I was attempting to do, with this trip and in my writing. Happy to share my experiences and help people learn more about Cuba. Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Love the rustic feel of the place. And the fact that it is clean and organized makes it all amazing. You are quite lucky to experienced it for yourself. I kinda envy you – not just for this place but for the visit to Cuba

That’s when social media really shows its benefits — when you can meet someone that leads to a great experience like you had in Cuba. Villa Paradiso looks like a place I could spend some time especially on that terrace with a view.

That view from the balcony is so mesmerizing Doreen. I don’t know when I will get to visit this part of the world, but when the time comes, I will definitely like to check this place. The hospitality was also very warm it seems.

I’m so bookmarking this for our future trip, Doreen. It looks like a great place! Everything I would be looking for in a first trip. Thanks so much for sharing!

Oh, Man! Now I REALLY want to get back to Cuba, pronto, to enjoy the Baracoa route and this villa. What a find, and such a nice story you’ve presented. Will pin, too.

Thx so much, Kristin. Glad you enjoyed the post. 🙂 Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Cuba is on my travel list. I remember the first time i come to know about the country was via this movie called “Soy Cuba” Hopefully, some day i shall visit.

I don’t believe I’ve seen that film. Does “Soy Cuba” focus on the culture of Cuba, or is it a travel film? Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Hi Doreen, “Soy Cuba” (“I Am Cuba”) is a 1964 Soviet-Cuban black & white film about the Cuban Revolution. It used a range of special techniques that made it visually quite striking. Martin Scorsese seems to have taken quite an interest in it. You may recall a poster we have in the larger bedroom where you stayed – it’s the Cuban movie poster designed for the film. You can see that poster on our website photo gallery, on the 16th picture in the gallery: https://villaparadisobaracoa.com/en/gallery/

Thanks for the info, Roberto! I must say that you are an amazing source of info about all things Cuban. I have really appreciated how you’ve increased my knowledge about the flora, fauna, culture and treasures of Cuba as a whole, but especially of your delightful Baracoan region (which I will salute in the upcoming post on this blog, so stay tuned!) 🙂 Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

I’ve been wanting to go to Cuba for years – I really need to get there while it’s still such good value and relatively uncrowded. Villa Paradiso looks like a wonderful place to stay.

Karen, Cuba is one of my favourite island nations. I love the vibrancy of the music and the passion and pride of the people. Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Looks like an excellent place to stay in! It always helps to have a friendly and approachable host to make a trip even more memorable! Cheers!

That is SO true, Claire. I think the host is a key component to any homestay, or stay in a very small inn. Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Looks like you landed in a winning place. I was in Cuba in February, and stayed in three separate apartments. I’m much less social than you, so that was perfect for me. In all cases, the whole unit was mine, and I had a breathtaking view and deck in Matanzas. My Havana place was cute and cool, and right smack in the heart of Habana Veijo. I felt like the only tourist on the street. I had my own little cafeteria on the corner. They let me take the plate to my apartment and return it the next morning. My final spot was in Santa Marta, a quick bike ride from Varadero. Tiny little cottage with a huge yard, table, swing, etc. to expand the living area.

I will go back, and will do exactly what I did this time. It was gritty, close-to-the-ground travel, definitely behind the well-crafted tourist view of Cuba. The people were amazing for the most part, and really love Canadians. I had one guy on the street ask me where I was from. When I said Canada, he grinned widely and gave me an enthusiastic thumbs up. Great time.

Thanks so much for sharing those details of your trip to Cuba, Wendy. It’s so encouraging to see that adventurous travellers are getting off the resorts and staying in accommodations that introduce them to an authentic Cuban experience. Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

If you weren’t a writer on social media, we wouldn’t have met! Isn’t it wonderful to discover a place built and managed with loving care? I felt that way at La Torretta in Manarola, Italy. They become magical memories.

Thanks, Rose. So glad that we’ve connected online. I truly look forward when we transfer that friendship into the real world. And I would love to stay at La Torretta. With a recommendation from you I know I’d like it. 🙂 Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

I’ve not been to Cuba. Should I visit (and there’s a good chance I will, now that I’m back in Canada), Villa Paradiso Baracoa will be on my radar. Thanks for the tip about booking early.

You’re welcome,. Nancie. I think you’d enjoy a stay at Villa Paradiso as you are an adventurous traveler, and there is plenty of adventure in the Baracoa area. Stay tuned! 🙂 Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

We would like to thank Doreen and #FoodTravelChat for the wonderful experience! Meeting and hosting Doreen has been a highlight for us this year. She’s a lovely individual whose presence in our house was simply delightful – and of course she loves sharing her knowledge of chocolate, which included tastings (right here on our terrace with the sea view!) of some great chocolates by different artisan chocolatiers from various countries. We learned lots and truly appreciated Doreen’s conviviality, sense of humour and charm (you can tell she must be a great hostess herself!). For those of you who commented on Doreen’s post expressing an interest in visiting us here in Baracoa – thank you so much and we’ll be certainly pleased to welcome you at Villa Paradiso!

Thanks for the very kind words, Roberto, and for being so kind and welcoming me with Manuel and Gladys (your dedicated friend and assistant) for making me feel like a friend the moment I walked in the door. Villa Paradiso is a true travel gem for anyone visiting Eastern Cuba. Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Having been the lucky recipient of Doreen’s hosting skill many time, I can confirm that your suspicion is correct. There is nobody who can bring a crowd of people together, and make it all work, better than Doreen.

Wendy, thank you for those very kind words. It thrills me to have people gather and share happy moments. Memories of those moments keep me going. 🙂 Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Sue Reddel tried to post this comment and it wouldn’t take, so she’s asked me to post it here for her: “Doreen, here’s the comment I tried to enter: #FoodTravelChat is on Twitter every Wednesday at 8 pm ET. We are happy to send folks reminders and have two easy ways to make that happen. Interested food travelers can check out the link below. http://www.foodtravelist.com/spotlight/join-us-foodtravelchat/ Join Us For #foodtravelchat Every Wednesday night Food Travel Chat at 8pm ET/7pm CT/5pm PT on Twitter for an hour under the hashtag #FoodTravelChat to chat about Food Travel. foodtravelist.com

You cannot please everyone Doreen and I am sure you will not even attempt to. You are focused and can see the bigger picture.

The accomodation you stayed in (Villa Paradiso) looks as if it embraces the culture; from the art on the wall to the exotic fruits served for breakfast. I would take this over a standard uniform hotel any day of the week.

Hi Phoenicia. Yes, it’s really great to experience this kind of hospitality. That raises the stature of a property way above the formality and sometimes unauthentic quality of the bigger chain hotels. Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

This looks wonderful – I would love to visit and stay in this area some day. Your hosts look very friendly and wonderful art enthusiasts, which I love hanging out with.

I definitely think you’d enjoy the company of Roberto and Manuel, Noel. They are warm and colourful and very knowledgeable of the area. And Villa Paradiso Baracoa is a very photogenic place!

Villa Paradiso Baracoa looks like a great place to stay. I’ve never stayed at a Casa Particular, but think I would look for that type of accommodation should I make another visit to Cuba.

I think you’d enjoy it, Donna. A friend of mine in ON is using part of her home as an Air BnB and she loves the experience of having guests from all over the world come to stay with her. Her experience with Air BnB guests has been nothing but positive. And I have enjoyed B&B’s at various places from time to time. So I’m glad I finally had the opportunity to give the Casa Particular option a try. It was very positive for me. Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Looks like the Villa Paradiso Baracoa is truly a labor of love between Roberto and Manuel. And that love is more than enough to create a masterpiece and a continuing delightful service. You are lucky to have been able to stay there! And the price is so right!

Absolutely, Carol. Villa Paradiso Baracoa is a place that almost everyone would enjoy. Not good for people with mobility issues (as there are stairs) or allergies to pets (they have a cat, dog, and bird.) Or those who only travel 5-star. But for the most of us, it is a super place where you will make good friends of the hosts, and possibly your fellow travellers. 🙂 Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Such an amazing adventure you must have had in Cuba’s cocoa country. Staying at Villa Pardiso Baracoa looks like a gem, especially with the gorgeous views it affords. Thanks for sharing.

For sure, Jeff. Villa Paradiso is truly a gem. and you can’t beat the price! Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

Villa Paradiso Baracoa seems like a fantastic place. I fully understand that you loved staying there. Such houses are much more interesting to stay in than yet another five star hotel.

Absolutely, Catarina. I really learned so much more about Cuban culture by staying with people who are living it. And by eating at small, independent restaurants where we were delighted with the cuisine. It is 10x fresher and better tasting than the buffets at those 4-5-star beach resorts. Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

This looks like a paradise, for sure! Love the photos.

Social media can be both blessing and blasphemy. I think a lot of the outcome has to do with how we engage and how far down the rabbit hole we allow ourselves to go. With moderation, social media extends our reach and broadens our world in miraculous ways, as you so richly discovered!

Thanks for the thoughtful comment, Linda. Yes, social media is a mixed blessing indeed. I spend far too much time on it. But it has made me invaluable contacts and good friends like you. And provided me with incredible opportunities I would not otherwise have found. So I will continue to engage in it, but always do so with a certain amount of caution. 🙂 Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

I’ve never been to Cuba; but Villa Paradiso Baracoa looks like a wonderful, relaxing place to stay.Your comments on the cleanliness, good food and a multi-lingual host are most appealing! Your return trip needs to be in winter, yes?

Hi, Linda. I think you would love Cuba because of the amazing music. I will have something on that in a future post. Yes, perhaps another trip to Cuba during winter would be amazing. But I have so many other places I really need to visit. Which is why volume II of Chocolatour is taking much longer than anticipated.

Wow, this looks amazing Doreen, and how great to find such a great place run by two gay men in Cuba. Between the food and the views, I’m putting it on my list.

Great to hear from you, Kathy. Yes, I think you would truly enjoy the artistic flair & sensitivity at Villa Paradiso. I hope you get to enjoy it soon.

This looks like an incredible place to have as your base for exploring this part of Cuba. I’m sure the hospitality shown by your hosts to the international guests they attract (wow, to be fluent in several languages!) contributed to your positive review of Villa Paradiso Baracoa.

For sure, Debbie. Manuel is working on his English and is fluent in Spanish. And with Roberto also knowing French, they are well prepared to accept and cater to international travellers.

Cuba has long been on my bucket list, and now Villa Paradiso Baracoa is, too! Thanks for sharing your experience, Doreen–it helps a lot since so few people I know have visited Cuba. Having visited El Salvador, I would love to learn about Roberto’s experiences in the two countries. Looks like I will need to plan a visit!

Thanks for your comment, Lori. And welcome to Chocolatour! Yes, Cuba is an amazing country. I would love to return yet again and continue my adventures as I’ve not yet been to Trinidad (a city in Cuba) that comes highly recommended by my guide. I’ve not been to El Salvador. Will have to ask Roberto what he likes best and least about his homeland. 🙂 Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

So glad you participated in #foodtravelchat and met the guys from Villa Paradiso Baracoa. Our goal on the chat is two connect people with destinations that highlight culinary adventures. Looks like you had just that with our friends in Cuba.

You are SO right, Sue. Can you remind me and others when the FoodTravelChats run on Twitter? I don’t think you send out the auto-reminder that some of the other groups do, and so I often miss them. Thx for stopping by the site, and for being the catalyst that fuelled my trip to Eastern Cuba. 🙂

Very beautiful views from the second floor. It looks like a wonderful place to eat dinner after a long day exploring.

Indeed, Giselle, and welcome to Chocolatou r! As an avid traveller yourself, I’m sure you will enjoy the chocolate journeys we share here. 🙂 Villa Paradiso is indeed a fabulous place to relax or regenerate one’s self after a day of touring. I loved the option of having dinner there if I chose to. And the food was delicious! Doreen Pendgracs recently posted… Villa Paradiso Baracoa — The Gem of Cuba’s Cocoa Country

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• Food & Travel in Cuba: 5 Amazing Tables in Baracoa

Published on 11 January, 2020.

In Cuba, Baracoa is known to travellers as the region with the best cuisine. A wider range of ingredients and flavours graces the local culinary tradition – and innovation. No wonder the travel experts at Rough Guides have branded Baracoa “ Cuba’s uncontested culinary capital “!

If you’re wondering where to eat in Baracoa, in this post we take you to five amazing tables in our region – at the beach, on a river’s shore, at a farm, by the road, in town… Bon appétit!

Table of Contents

Tato’s cool vibes and memorable dishes at El Manglito Beach

The Caribbean vibes at Tato’s colourful restaurant are simply unbeatable. Your chairs and table are set under coconut trees right on the beach, you hang out there in your swimsuit, your bare feet playing in the sand…

An unpretentious, laid-back fishing community, El Manglito beach entices you to take in the atmosphere and forget there’s a thing called time… Start by ordering a fresh fruit juice, a good Cuban rum-based cocktail or a chilled beer!

Drinks arrive, dishes are served and you feel the breeze caressing your skin. You take a first bite at the super fresh fish, the delightfully grilled octopus, or the perfectly done al ajillo  lobster, with the quintessentially Baracoan coconut milk sauce on the side and you think you’re in heaven as you watch the sleepy fishing boats float by…

You can also eat inside, if you prefer to, and still enjoy the seaside atmosphere. Tato’s is simply the best fresh fish and seafood served in the region! The owner (smiling on the picture below) and waiters are kind and cool, making you feel at home. Most of the year the vibe here is serene.

In the summer time (July and August), Cuban families do enjoy a day at the beach and El Manglito becomes party central with music, dance and drinks!

5 cool things about Tato’s

• Best seafood in the region – we go there for our birthday, ’nuff said! (Seriously: Tato’s octopus is to die for!)
• They can stew, grill, deep-fry, wood-fire cook… and shake great cocktails too.
• One of the very few restaurants in Cuba to be located right on the sand: the beach is thoroughly cleaned every single day – just look at the pictures!
• A meal at Tato’s is the best reward after a good hike into the Yumuri Canyon – or after cycling here 21 km up and down green hills from Baracoa!
• There’s some pretty nice snorkelling at El Manglito too!

Permaculture never tasted better – El Eden farm in Quibijan

Yet another amazing natural and human setting, perfect for agritourism (or agrotourism) and off-the-beaten-path experience lovers. Take a ride on a 4×4 up the mountains along river Toa and into the heart of the Cuchillas del ToaBiosphere Reserve . Get off the vehicle to a captivating view below: a lush, green valley; a winding, crystal-clear river and, in the middle of it all, a dream-like agroecological family farm!

A bamboo raft takes you across river Quibiján to the other shore where Oni and Pincho will welcome you for a tour of their idyllic permaculture farm. They’re such welcoming people and they love sharing their knowledge and sense of what makes a good life in harmony with nature.

El Eden farm is not a restaurant, but you’ll certainly want to taste the hearty, honest food they cook with the family’s fresh, organic produce – and their pickled or preserved delights. At the top of a rustic lookout tower in the middle of the valley you’ll be able to enjoy a meal, which can be anything from vegan, to vegetarian to mains with river prawns, lamb or rabbit.

Freshly cropped root veggies, green leaves and other vegetables are always front and centre at El Eden’s table. Check out this meal – seven out of nine dishes in the picture are organic, season’s veggies.

Feel like enjoying a bath in the cool river waters in the afternoon? Why not – a great relief from the Cuban heat! You’ll be wishing you could stay at this idyllic place for just one more day…

5 cool things about El Edén

• Off-the-beaten-path, where deep nature and pure farming meet – a magnificently scenic setting!
• A charming and welcoming family of proud, down-to-earth eco farming practitioners – no university degrees here, just big love for the land and the planet.
• A true farm-to-table experience: the food is as organic and fresh as it gets, veggies are cropped (you can help doing this if you want to!) minutes before they’re prepared and served.
• A healthy day and a tasty meal combined – just breathe that air, bathe in the river waters and savour those excellent products.
• Some visitors have been seen taking a delightful nap in one of the hammocks in the afternoon placidity…

Ancient, Indigenous-Tinged Dishes at Rancho Kiriba & Nengon

This is not a restaurant either. Instead, the experience here is about Nengon and Kiriba – two old traditional rhythms and dances cultivated by local folk – and which are at the roots of today’s son oriental  and salsa . Having said that – upon advance request, the cultural event organizers can throw in a tasting of a variety of local, home-made Taino-influenced dishes!

On such pre-arranged occasions, a buffet table is presented to visitors. You eat using a traditional calabash dish and spoon. A variety of plant-based dishes is included – okra, green beans, chard, beans, deep fried root veggies such as cassava or bread fruit…

Fish and seafood are also part of the buffet – rice with crab meat, fish in coconut milk sauce.

Visitors are invited to join the party and hit the dance floor with the hamlet’s dancers, while the dishes are progressively set on a long table. One you’ve perfected your Nengon & Kiriba steps, you’ll be invited to sample the food!

Home-made and lovingly passed from one generation to the next, this is some of the best cooking in the Baracoa region – you’ll leave convinced there’s no restaurant in town that can match this family cuisine! To finalize the experience, your hosts will offer you a taste of chorote – the typically Baracoan chocolate drink made with coconut milk, locally grown organic cocoa and dried banana flour: simply amazing!

5 cool things about Rancho Kiriba & Nengon

• Meet & greet the members of this group of unique and authentically Cuban folk music and dance cultivators! N.B.: Nengon and Kiriba are on their way to being recognized as World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.
• Learn the steps – Kiriba and Nengón have a sweet cadence to them and are easy to join in.
• Nowhere else in the Baracoa region is the Taino culinary influence as present as it is here, passed on from the elders to the youth.
• Eat and drink out of calabash dishes, spoons and cups!
• After the dance and the meal, hit nearby Cajuajo beach!

Veggies, veggies & more lovely veggies – Baracoando

Who says you won’t eat good veggies in Cuba! Chef Aristides Smith will show you what Cuba can do with plants only: every evening, a buffet table with 10, 12 sometimes 15 different dishes! Super colourful. Super delicious. No salads – everything cooked using different techniques. To get there, take an evening stroll along La Marina , the bayside street with a view to El Yunque .

Baracoando is a different experience at many levels. Take the ‘restaurant’ space itself: chef Smith serves out of his home, which was devastated by hurricane Matthew in 2016. He has lovingly rebuilt it using recovered hurricane debris (e.g. tree trunks), natural (limestone rocks) and traditional (terracotta roof tiles) materials. A charming, earthy look has slowly emerged, with climbing tropical plants all over.

Every morning, Smith scouts Baracoa’s surroundings for only the best organic, fresh veggies and herbs. They don’t look perfect nor almost plastic as those on supermarkets in Northern countries. It’s all simple goodness from the soil – like in the good, old times.

At Baracoando, you’ll quickly notice that Smith, a former photojournalist and documentary maker, is quite your people’s person. He loves getting to know you and always has crunchy yet meaningful stories to share. He’ll invite you into his kitchen and show you what he’s cooking – and he’ll give you some ingredients, such as local herbs, to taste.

Aristides used to serve plated food, which was a fantastically colourful experience. Nowadays though, by way of a buffet he lets you choose what you want on your plate – it’s never the same from one evening to the next! You’ll appreciate the variety, the flavours, discovering new veggies, herbs and edible flowers with which you were not familiar!

People come back from Baracoando saying they ate incredibly well and quite enjoyed the exchanges with Aristides, a pretty unique, colourful and engaging character! The food is so healthy and the cooking so masterful you’ll sleep like a baby and be ready early next morning for your hike of the day!

5 cool things about Baracoando

• Walk into a super creative Baracoan’s self-built patio and enjoy the jovial atmosphere.
• Enlarge the list of root veggies you know and appreciate.
• Discover new herbs, leaves, grains – and learn about their healthy properties.
• A buffet like a trip of flavours – a kaleidoscope for your palate!
• Some guests have persuaded talkative chef Smith to give them a cooking class too!

A master chef’s place – La Cocina de Ortiz

This young chef knows how to blend “classy” and “down-to-earth” in the same menu. Ineldis Trutié Ortiz was born at El Yunque’s foothills and grew up closely watching his grandma cook honest, healthy countryside meals. Years later he would work at some of the best kitchens in Havana, only to decide later that he’d much rather come back to his roots in Baracoa to open his own restaurant here.

As we write this, chef Ortiz is about to finalize the construction of his all-new restaurant in downtown Baracoa, just a few steps from the main plaza: La Cocina de Ortiz. It should be ready to welcome you in late February 2020 – we’ll post pictures once its doors open!

We show you here (below) a sample menu of what Ortiz is able to place on your table. For starters, this fresh octopus salad with citric juices, herbs and Cuban spinach flowers. Ortiz’ zeal for high quality ingredients shows – look at those tangerines and thinly sliced coconut, not to mention the sea creature’s tentacles!

The Wall Street Journal featured Ortiz a couple of years ago as a rising star in Cuba’s new cuisine. In his article, the author talked about a Cuban cucina povera  and celebrated the Baracoan chef’s love, and creative use, of his terroir ‘s products. As a main dish, here’s a mahi-mahi fillet in coconut milk. Note the roasted coconut half and shavings. We’ll have you know that, although coconut milk sauce is typical fare in Baracoa, this version is entirely his.

Baracoa is Cuba’s cacao capital and chef Ortiz’ desserts often include the heavenly ingredient. Today’s offering was a chilled chocolate cream, very fruity with ripe banana, grated handcrafted chocolate and roasted cacao beans from a local family farm.

La Cocina de Ortiz will showcase the chef’s creativity with constantly evolving dishes and creations. Ortiz wants to keep it cozy and intimate – there’ll be only a few tables, which will allow him to put his best skills to play every evening!

5 cool things about La Cocina de Ortiz

• Unique, skillful, creative cooking centred on quality local ingredients. The mastery shows not only in the plating but in the subtle flavours and textures too.
• Ortiz purposely favours a cozy ambiance – only a few tables will be set at his restaurant.
• A range of different dishes on the menu – including well thought-out and cared-for vegetables dishes or components.
• A chef’s signature is evident in every dish Ortiz creates.
• An honest blend of high caliber cooking and countryside sensibility – the Baracoan landscape and roots do show on your plate!

Other super good spots – you’ll have great things to say about these options too!

Made’s la favorita, at yara-majayara.

Yara-Majayara has been progressively emerging among our visitors as a protected area of choice for hikers, nature lovers and birdwatchers who come to Baracoa. Its river delta, mangroves and dry evergreen flora on karst geological terraces are unique – and its two miradors offer some really beautiful views!

Right by the entrance to the protected area sits the pretty, flowery and shaded La Favorita, where Made will welcome you with flavourful dishes she once cooked for none other than Buena Vista Social Club’s Eliades Ochoa. Indeed, Made was Ochoa’s resident cook for a few years!

When you arrive at the protected area’s access point in the morning and before you engage your excursion, you can ask for Made and place your order for later in the day, after the hike. It’s worth noting that she can also offer a nice buffet table for groups, upon request.

Authentic dining in Cuba’s far, far east – El Pinito

If you are a road trip lover and enjoy unpretentious yet really good local favourite restaurants, you’ll certainly appreciate El Pinito.

Located at a modest corner in the little town of Sabana, their stewed lamb, enchilado shrimp or saucy shredded crab meat are super tasty. A great stop on your way back from Pozo Azul , or if you are driven around Cuba’s easternmost tip, discovering amazing landscapes and nature !

Hearty countryside food by the river: Rancho Toa

A quaint set of thatched structures right by river Toa at its largest, deepest, most voluminous stretch – the very place where it reaches the sea.

Their house cocktail – orange and passion fruit juice with rum, served on a grapefruit skin with a plant straw – is delicious!

When large groups of people come, a buffet is offered with pit roasted pork, rice, cooked veggies and fresh salads.

If that’s not on offer the day you come, order à la carte – don’t miss the traditionally Baracoan (shareable) sides of calalu  (vegetable greens in coconut milk sauce) and bacan perdido  (little plantain dumplings in coconut milk sauce).

A lovely 40-minute boat ride on river Toa is also on offer, either as you wait for your meal or after having enjoyed it!

Other flavours and tastings not to be missed

Food travellers will also love tasting Baracoa’s delightful honey and organic, export-quality cacao !

P.S.: breakfast & dinner at Villa Paradiso are also delicious!

Activities , Baracoa , Sustainable Tourism

Tags: Agritourism , Culture , Food

Looking for the best things to do in Baracoa? Check out our blog, A Taste of Baracoa!

Book your stay at villa paradiso and explore the wonders of the baracoa region., check out our bedrooms, terraces, balconies and gardens, don’t hesitate to be in touch, recent comments.

Wow! As much as I love all your posts about Baracoa, this has got to be one of my faves. It’s the perfect tease for food lovers and food travelers, who are very likely to be inspired to book a trip pronto! There’s a fantastic variety of meals here, from home-cooked on a farm to lovingly prepared by a world-class chef. And all distinctive to the region. What a delight!

Glad you enjoyed the post, Cynthia and thanks for your comment! Indeed, the food here in Baracoa is like the cherry on the sundae for all the great nature & adventure to be enjoyed in the region! This is the place in Cuba where landscapes and flavours comme together in the most surprising and pleasant manners!

WOW! Everything looks so delicious! What an incredible edible journey!

Thank you, Heidi! It is quite the culinary trip, indeed! We hope you can come sample this delicious food some time in the near future! All the best from Baracoa, Manuel & Roberto

I’m like literally the biggest fan of Cuban food, love this post! When I was meeting a friend in NYC three years ago I faced a bit of an uphill struggle to convince him to eat out Cuban twice but neither of us had any regrets in the end.

Hey Stefan! Having Cuban food twice over a visit is real proof you’re a diehard fan! Glad you enjoyed our post! All the best from Baracoa! 🙂

Great post! Having been to Ortiz’ restaurant, and El Eden, and Rancho Toa, I have to say your writing is spot on. I am hearing that things are busy in Baracoa with the tourists, and no doubt it’s thanks in large part to your lovely photos and descriptions. Great work.

Thanks so much for your kind comment, Katheryne! It’s truly encouraging to hear that our content could elicit travellers’ desire to explore Baracoa. We love showcasing the best experiences in our region – there’s so much talent here, and we’re happy to read that you concur with some of our choices! All the best, Manuel & Roberto

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