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Exploring Brazil #1: The city of Recife and surroundings

Is it already? Finally! I was waiting for my trip to that biggest country in South America for months to write my Brazil travel blog! I'm not regretting any day and penny spend there, as my adventure was amazing!

Let's start my Brazil travel guide by visiting the city of Recife with a great Old Town, Marco Zero Square, Sculptures at the waterfront, and Boa Viagem Beach. We will also visit great tourist attractions and interesting places like Francisco Brennand's Ceramic Workshop, Ricardo Brennand Institute, and New Jerusalem Theater. So let's get to it!

Recife Old Town

Recife Old Town (called also Recife Antigo) is the oldest part of the city, founded in 1537. The place was chosen because of its great place near the South Atlantic bay, so the huge port was created here. In 1837, the Recife became a strategic trading place and a capital of Pernambuco state.

If you want to visit the biggest tourist attractions in the city, you should start right here. It combines an excellent mix of history, culture, and entertainment like restaurants, bars, and cafes. Oh, and don't forget about the Carnival, that takes place in Recife every year. The city during Carnival changes a lot, with many themed ornamentations.

Marco Zero Square

Marco Zero Square is the main part of the Recife Old Town. You can find here a lot of old, colorful buildings from the colonial times. It's the best place to start visiting Old Town and to have a long wander. The whole square is full of colors and a great place for a photography.

The Marco Zero Square was founded by Portuguese settlers in the 16th century. You can also find here a small monument called Marco Zero (called also "Km 0") - it marks the place where the Portuguese founded Recife.

Sculpture Park at the Waterfront

The Sculpture Park can be found near the Recife Shopping Mall and it's the place where we can find 35 different sculptures in the green area of almost 19000 m2. It was opened in 1998.

There are many famous Brazilian artists that were working on the Sculpture Park in Recife: Augusto Ferrer, Francisco Brennand, Abelardo da Hora, and Marianne Peretti. All of them was chosen by Rogélia Peres, the architect who created this exhibition. The Sculpture Park in Recife is one of the biggest tourist attractions in the city and for sure a very interesting place full of art and culture.

Boa Viagem Beach

I cannot imagine visiting Brazil without swimming! If you going on a trip to the city, the best place you can do this is a Boa Viagem Beach in Recife. Well, not only I think this way, as this beach is one of the most visited beaches in Northeastern Brazil.

The Boa Viagem is the longest stretch of urbanized seafront in Brazil and it's more than 8 kilometers long. The water has the temperature about 25 °C.

Beware that the Boa Viagem Beach in Recife is plagued by tiger shark attacks that happens here sometimes. Well, not too many tourists or locals care.

Francisco Brennand's Ceramic Workshop

Francisco Brennand was born in northern Brazil in 1927 in a rich family. His interesting to pottery and other kinds of art began very early. His father opened a pottery in Recife in 1917 and he started to work there when he was just a boy. He even traveled to Europe, Italy and Spain to search for the inspiration, based on such famous people as Gaudi or Picasso.

After he came back in 1971, his family pottery was on the verge of bankruptcy. To preserve that, he combined his love and talent to ceramics with an architect Roberto Brule Marx, which resulted in the creation of Francisco Brennand's Ceramic Workshop with beautiful gardens, reflecting pools, fountains, and temples.

Nowadays the Francisco Brennand's Ceramic Workshop is filled with hundreds of statues that he created, numerous amount of paintings and ceramics. Many of the gardens have Brennand’s work with ceramics and statues. The whole complex looks amazing, like nothing else in the world. The gardens and museums are open to the public whole week.

Ricardo Brennand Institute

The Ricardo Brennand Institute looks like a Tudor-style European castle and it's nothing strange because it was built by the Dutch people.It is a museum that holds South America's biggest collection of different kind of armor and weapons, like swords, maces, crossbows or daggers or a 27 full-plate armor. It takes us back to a time of medieval knights, and it was a world in which I immersed myself with great pleasure.

Not only weapons can be found here. Ricardo Brennand Institute is also a library that holds over 60 000 items, it's also the world's largest collection of paintings and drawings by the renowned New World landscape artist Frans Post.

Ricardo Brennand Institute was opened in 2002 and offered cultural education programs to the local community. It's opened from Tuesday to Sunday from 13:00 to 17:00.

New Jerusalem Theatre

The New Jerusalem Theater, located in a dusty region of Brejo da Madre de Deus is an open-air theater covering more than 24 acres of space and it looks like some kind of a medieval castle. The place is really huge, just imagine that the walls are 2.2 miles long and they have about 70 towers. All of this makes it the biggest open-air theater in the world.

The first play in the New Jerusalem Theater is dated in 1951 and the show was made only for friends and family that was playing different roles. This changed in 1963 when people from nearest town decided to build here a Jerusalem replica.

Nowadays 8 big plays (550 actors each) takes place in in the New Jerusalem Theater during the year, being watched by more than 8000 people per single show, mostly the Passion of Christ. Tourists that came here to see the play can stay in the inn inside the walls.

This is the end of my Recife travel guide about the city's interesting places and tourist attractions. Soon I will write on my travel blog other articles about my trips to other parts of Brazil.

Recife is a great city with so many great spots, like the Old Town, Francisco Brennand's Ceramic Workshop, New Jerusalem Theater, and Ricardo Brennand Institute. If you know other places, write me about them and I will try to describe them here. I hope you enjoyed this guide, if you have any questions about Recife or Brazil, feel free to leave me a comment.

Hey there! My name is Wojtek and I am very happy that you came to my travel blog. I've been traveling the world for a few good years now and I still want more. On my website I describe the adventures that have happened to me, you will also find here a collection of valuable tips for tourists and travelers. If you liked this article, be sure to leave a comment and read some more!

Read the next article in this series:

Brazil, unfortunately, has never seen me before, but we will try to catch up :) This text was translated automatically. Original text is below: Brazylia niestety jeszcze nigdy mnie nie widziała, ale postaramy się to nadrobić :)

This text was translated automatically. Original text is below: Warto, piekny, wielki i trochę dziki kraj. Planowaliśmy tę podróż latami, tanio i łatwo nie było, ale wspomnienia bezcenne! :-)

I was traveling to Brazil but unfortunately missed the city of Recife... Maybe next time, as I can see that you travel guide shows that there are a lot of interesting places in Recife!

Crap, I've been to Brazil several times, I even wrote some articles on my travel blog, but I was not in Recife, which is a pity. It looks like a fantastic city, especially the old town. This text was translated automatically. Original text is below: Kurcze, byłem w Brazylii kilka razy, nawet napisałem parę artykułów na moim blogu podrózniczym, ale w Recife nie byłem, a szkoda. Wygląda na fantastyczne miasto, szczególnie starówka.

We are going with my husband to Brazil in August, and after reading this travel article the city of Recife will undoubtedly be on our list! Interesting places, tourist attractions, nothing but to go and visit :-) This text was translated automatically. Original text is below: Wybieramy się z mężem do Brazylii w sierpniu, i po przeczytaniu tego artykułu podróżniczego miasto Recife bez wątpienia znajdzie się na naszej liście! Ciekawe miejsca, atrakcje turystyczne, nic tylko jechać i zwiedzać :-)

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The 14 BEST things to do in Recife, Brazil

• January 4, 2023
• 14 Best Things

Introduction

Welcome to The Journey Seeker! Find out all about best things to do in Recife, Brazil!

Atmosphere / Vibes

Weather throughout the year

Why Recife, Brazil is the best place to be

• Beautiful beaches: Recife has some of the most stunning beaches in Brazil, with crystal clear waters and soft, white sands. Whether you want to relax on the beach or try your hand at water sports, you’ll find something to suit your interests.
• Rich history and culture: Recife has a rich and fascinating history, with a mix of Portuguese, African, and indigenous influences. You can learn more about this history by visiting the city’s many museums and historical sites.
• Delicious food: Recife has a diverse and vibrant food scene, with something for every taste. From fresh seafood to traditional Brazilian dishes, you’ll find plenty of delicious options to choose from.

Cost of Travel

Top 14 best things to do in recife, brazil.

• Visit Boa Viagem Beach: Boa Viagem is Recife’s most popular beach, with its wide stretches of soft, white sands and crystal clear waters. You can relax on the beach, take a swim, or try your hand at some water sports.
• Explore the Recife Antigo district: The Recife Antigo district is the city’s historic center, with charming cobblestone streets and colonial-style buildings. You can visit the city’s museums, churches, and squares, or just take a leisurely stroll and soak up the atmosphere.
• Go on a boat tour: Recife is a city of waterways, and one of the best ways to see it is by boat. You can take a tour of the city’s rivers and canals, and see the city from a different perspective.
• Try some local cuisine: Recife has a diverse and vibrant food scene, with something for every taste. You can try traditional Brazilian dishes like feijoada (a hearty stew made with beans and meat) or moqueca (a seafood stew).
• Visit the Mercado de São José: The Mercado de São José is a bustling market in the heart of Recife, selling everything from fresh produce and seafood to handmade crafts and souvenirs. You can spend hours exploring the stalls and trying new foods.
• Take a stroll through the Jardim Japones: The Jardim Japones (Japanese Garden) is a tranquil oasis in the middle of the city, with beautiful gardens, koi ponds, and a teahouse. It’s the perfect place to relax and unwind.
• Go shopping at Boa Vista Mall: If you’re looking for some retail therapy, Boa Vista Mall is the place to be. It’s the largest mall in Recife, with hundreds of stores and restaurants. You can spend the whole day here, trying on clothes, eating delicious food, and catching a movie.
• Visit the Recife Art Museum: The Recife Art Museum is home to a collection of Brazilian art from the 19th and 20th centuries. You can see works by famous artists like Candido Portinari and Carybé, as well as contemporary pieces.
• Check out the Donana National Park: The Donana National Park is a protected area just outside Recife, with a rich array of flora and fauna. You can take a guided tour and see animals like jaguars, monkeys, and exotic birds.
• Take a surfing lesson: Recife has some great waves, making it a popular spot for surfing. If you’ve never tried it before, you can take a lesson and learn from the pros.
• Visit the Recife Shark Aquarium: The Recife Shark Aquarium is home to a variety of marine animals, including sharks, rays, and turtles. You can see these creatures up close and learn about their habitats and behavior.
• Enjoy a night out in Boa Viagem: Boa Viagem is the city’s nightlife hub, with a variety of bars, clubs, and restaurants to choose from. You can dance the night away or just relax with a drink and enjoy the atmosphere.
• Go on a street art tour: Recife is known for its vibrant street art scene, with murals and graffiti covering the city’s walls. You can take a tour and see some of the best pieces, or just wander the streets and see what you can find.

Have you thought about staying in Recife for a little longer and working remotely? Here is another blog post about becoming a Digital Nomad in Recife

Did you like this post? Have a look at our other blog posts about living in Brazil , such as Belo Horizonte , Porto Alegre or Porto Alegre .

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The Top 10 Things to See and Do in Recife, Brazil

Dubbed the “Venice of Brazil” for the abundance of picturesque waterways that sliver throughout the city, Recife is a touristic and commercial powerhouse in northern Brazil and a must for travelers traversing the region. From a crazy carnival parade to pristine beaches and thumping nightlife, here are the top 10 things to see and do in this vibrant tropical city.

Hang out on the beach, check out neighboring olinda, shop till you drop.

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Wander around the old city

Marvel at some incredible pottery at oficina ceramica francisco brennand, learn to dance frevo, go crazy at carnival.

Give the tourist throngs of Rio a miss and go a little loco Brazilian-style at Recife’s world-class carnival. Try to arrive on Saturday to witness the Galo da Madrugada, an epic parade that follows a giant route across a bridge and attracts some two million revelers. It’s the biggest street party in the world, according to the Guinness Book of Records.

Head out for an unforgettable evening

The thriving city of Recife has no shortage of excellent dining and entertainment options, with many of the most happening spots lining the upmarket Boa Viagem.

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Exploring Recife — The “Venice” of Brazil

Established in 1537, the city of Recife, the capital of the state of Pernambuco, Northeastern Brazil is one of the most unforgettable destinations for visitors when traveling to this South American country.

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Recife is located on two main islands and several small islands connected by 49 bridges, most of which were built during the Dutch colonial times. The two winding rivers, Capiraribe and Jaguaribe, bend and dividing neighborhoods in the city center, bringing the “Venice Brazil” nickname for Recife.

Like Venice, the annual carnival in Recife is very exciting and attractive. In addition, the old town with many buildings bearing traces of history, the waterways system leading to the sights, landmarks, and attractions… has created the attraction for Recife. Similarly, the popular type of tourism in Recife is also the cruise ships that bring visitors chill out between the canals interwoven between the streets and the wild mangrove forests.

Located in the center of the Recife Antigo old town, opposite the church of Sao Pedro dos Clerigos is the square that has always resounded ’frevo’ rhythm, traditional art with fast tempo and strong rhythm that combines different genres of music and dances of Brazil. This is where Recife residents and many artists come in every evening or weekend to chill out and find inspiration.

Visiting Recife, you do not forget to explore Bom Jesus, one of the oldest streets in the old town of Recife, characterized by house blocks that the front halls have been painted by colorfull brightly and often held the bustling markets. Also, try to look the Aurora street with the lovely house blocks reflected on the Capibaribe canal, discover Forte das Cinco Pontas fortress or visit the craft art workshops set in an old prison.

Porto de Galinhas is one of the most beautiful beaches of Brazil. In addition to swimming, sunbathing …, you can participate in surfing courses to try feeling adventurous on surfing the waves. In particular, coral reefs protect the shorelines creating turquoise-colored natural swimming pools at low tide and is completely covered when tide up.

If you want to experience the daily life of local people, avenue Boa Viagem opposite the beach, where gathered a large number of restaurants, bars, hotels … along the white sand beach is the road you need to go to when night falls.

The nonprofit private cultural complex Francisco Brennand Institute, 11 km to the west of the city center, is the place where visitors not to be missed. It was once a brick factory in the primeval forest of the Brennand family, a wealthy landowner who brings the soul of an artist in Varzeas street outside the city.

The building has the overall architecture like a medieval castle surrounded by vegetation, including a museum, an art gallery, a library and a large park. The outdoor gallery area exhibits nearly 2,000 human and things sculptures, inside for paintings and other items.

However, the beautiful beaches or the unique architectures only contribute a small part to the charm of Recife, only the street festival makes the most impressive highlight for this city. On the occasion of the festival, all the across roads of the city become extremely lively and colorful with more than 1.5 million participants. If you miss the annual spring Carnival festival, you can visit Recife in September to attend the world famous Refeno boat race.

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The 8 Best Things to Do in Recife, Brazil

Frazao Media/Getty Images

Although it is ​ Brazil's fourth largest city, Recife hasn't lost its traditional and cultural attractions to commercial development. The capital of Pernambuco state in northeast Brazil, Recife is a fluid mix of new and old.

Protected by the reef that gives the city its name, Recife is built around a number of inlets, canals, and bridges, living up to its name as the "Venice of Brazil." It offers walkable tours,  great beaches , and lively arts and entertainment.

Recife is beautiful anytime thanks to its  average year-round temperature  in the 80s F. However, the city puts on a great carnival so you might want to schedule a visit to the Recife and Olinda carnivals in February/March, or to the off-season carnival, called  Recifolia,  in October. Either occasion means thousands of visitors, so make your reservations early.

Lounge on Boa Viagem Beach

Michael Runkel / robertharding / Getty Images

Brazil is known for its beaches and Recife is no different. One of the best places to catch some sun is  Boa Viagem , an upscale area, which also offers most of the restaurants and nightclubs—some of which are oceanfront. Just keep in mind that this beach is known to have bull sharks, so you may want to stay on the sand instead of going for a swim.

Take a Cultural Walking Tour

Marco Simoni / robertharding / Getty Images 

Take a walking tour of the old city from the Praca da Republica to the impressive, 19th-century Teatro Santa Isabel. From there head to the Catedral de Sao Pedro dos Clerigos (also called Recife Co-Cathedral). Next, browse through the colorful Mercado do Sao Jose (Saint John's Market) for local arts and crafts and handiwork, including a special section for lace, and finish your walk at the Basilica de NS da Penha.

Shop Until You Drop

 Courtesy of Shopping Recife

Shopping Recife is Brazil's second-largest shopping center. It's been open for more than 30 years and now features around over 450 stores, 90 food options, and 14 cinemas. The mall is just five minutes from the Recife International Airport and a few blocks from the Boa Viagem beach, so it's a prime spot for tourists and locals alike.

Buy Souvenirs in a Former Prison

 chivunck / Wikimedia Commons /  CC BY-SA 3.0

The cross-shaped Casa da Cultura is one of the most interesting buildings in Recife. Dating back to 1850, it was originally a prison and is now a crafts and arts center that sells souvenirs. There are around 150 shops selling local pottery, dolls, board games, leather accessories, embroidery, paintings, and more. There's also a food court where you can try some of Pernambuco's local cuisine and on the third floor is Frevo Museum, which showcases traditional music.

Tour a Ceramics Factory and Museum

Set in the building of his family's old brick factory, the Oficina Ceramica de Francisco Brennand is a ceramics factory, art studio, gallery, and museum all wrapped in one. Brennand comes from a long line of ceramicists and he started work on this factory in 1971 after studying in Europe. While there, admire the fountains, sculptures, and wander the extensive gardens

Visit the City's Best Museum

Museu do Homem do Nordeste / Wikimedia Commons /  CC BY-SA 4.0

Museu do Homem do Nordeste is considered one of Recife's best museums. It displays art and objects that depict the anthropology, history, and culture of the people in this region. The museum's modern galleries were built in 1979 to showcase local artifacts and works.

Wander the Colorful Streets of Olinda

Olinda is the reason many visitors travel to Recife. Olinda is a living museum, a UNESCO heritage city, and considered to be the origin of the entire Brazilian culture of the 16th century. It's also very charming, with old stone churches, bright and colorful buildings, a stunning beach with coral reef pools, and more.

Celebrate Carnival

Two months before the actual date, the Carnival rehearsals start and the  blocos , or carnival section or group, draw in hundreds of watchers. The main dance is the  frevo , an energetic, exhilarating experience. In Olinda, everybody participates. Don't forget to bring your costume—you'll need it to fit in with the festivities.

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The Northeast’s second-largest city, Recife appears shabby and dull on first impressions, but it’s lent a colonial grace and elegance by Olinda, just 6km north. Recife itself has long since burst its original colonial boundaries, and much of the centre is now given over to uninspired office blocks. But there are still a few quiet squares where an inordinate number of impressive churches lie cheek by jowl with the uglier urban sprawl of the past thirty years. North of the centre are some pleasant leafy suburbs, dotted with museums and parks, and to the south is the modern beachside district of Boa Viagem. Other beaches lie within easy reach, and there’s also all the nightlife you’d expect from a city of nearly two million Brazilians.

Arts and crafts in Recife

Recife is probably the best big Brazilian city in which to find artesanato, and the area around Igreja São Pedro is the best place to look for it. Here, stalls coagulate into a bustling complex of winding streets, lined with beautiful but dilapidated early nineteenth-century tenements. The streets are choked with people and goods, all of which converge on the market proper, the Mercado de São José, an excellent place for artesanato (craft goods). If you can’t face the crowds, there’s a very good craft shop, Penha, on the corner of the Pátio de São Pedro, which is the main city outlet for some of Recife’s excellent woodcut artists. In the same shop, you’ll also find extremely inexpensive prints on both cloth and paper, known as cordel. Outside the shop, you can dig out cordel around the mercado or in Praça de Sebo, where the secondhand booksellers have stalls.

Carnaval in Recife is overshadowed by the one in Olinda, but the city affair is still worth sampling. The best place for Carnaval information is the tourist office, which publishes a free broadsheet with timetables and route details of all the Carnaval groups. You can also get a timetable in a free supplement to the Diário de Pernambuco newspaper on the Saturday of Carnaval, but it’s only a very approximate guide.

The blocos, or Carnaval groups, come in all shapes and sizes: the most famous is the Galo da Madrugada; the most common are the frevo groups (trucks called freviocas, with an electric frevo band aboard, circulate around the centre, whipping up already frantic crowds); but most visually arresting are caboclinhos, who wear modern Brazilian interpetations of a traditional Amazon Indian costume – feathers, animal-tooth necklaces – and carry bows and arrows, which they use to beat out the rhythm as they dance. It’s also worth trying to see a maracatu group, unique to Pernambuco: they’re mainly black, and wear bright costumes, the music an interesting (and danceable) hybrid of African percussion and Latin brass.

In Recife, the main events are concentrated in Santo Antônio and Boa Vista. There are also things going on in Boa Viagem, in the area around the Recife Palace Lucsim Hotel on Avenida Boa Viagem, but it’s too middle-class for its own good and is far inferior to what’s on offer elsewhere. Carnaval officially begins with a trumpet fanfare welcoming Rei Momo, the Carnaval king and queen, on Avenida Guararapes at midnight on Friday, the cue for wild celebrations. At night, activities centre on the grandstands on Avenida Dantas Barreto, where the blocos parade under the critical eyes of the judges; the other central area to head for is the Pátio de São Pedro. During the day, the blocos follow a route of sorts: beginning in Praça Manuel Pinheiro, and then via Rua do Hospício, Avenida Conde de Boa Vista, Avenida Guararapes, Praça da República and Avenida Dantas Barreto, to Pátio de São Pedro. Good places to hang around are near churches, especially Rosário dos Pretos, on Largo do Rosário, a special target for maracatu groups. The balconies of the Hotel do Parque are a good perch, too, if you can manage to get up there. Daylight hours is the best time to see the blocos – when the crowds are smaller and there are far more children around. At night, it’s far more intense and the usual safety warnings apply.

South from Recife

The coast south of Recife has the best beaches in the state and is all too quickly realizing its tourist potential – the sleepy fishing villages are unlikely to remain so for much longer. Almost all buses take the BR-101 highway, which runs inland through fairly dull scenery, made worse by heavy traffic. The trick is to get a bus that goes along the much more scenic coastal road, the PE-60, or via litoral; they leave from either Avenida Dantas Barreto or the Recife Rodoviária for the string of towns down the coast from Cabo, through Ipojuca, Sirinhaém, Rio Formoso to São José da Coroa Grande. Before São José, where the road starts to run alongside the beach, you may need to catch another local bus to get to the beachside villages themselves. In theory, you could hop from village to village down the coast on local buses, but only with time to spare. Services are infrequent – early morning is the usual departure time – and you might have to sleep on a beach or find somewhere to sling a hammock, as not all the villages have places to stay. As you move south, bays and promontories disappear, and walking along the beaches to the next village is often quicker than waiting for a bus.

Travel ideas for Brazil, created by local experts

Brazilian Beaches: Copacabana, Botafogo and more

Begin at Foz do Iguaçu, where you will stand in awe of the huge Iguaçu Falls. Next up, we'll head to the lively city of Rio de Janeiro, home of the legendary Copacabana, Botafogo and Flamengo beaches, and of course, Sugar Loaf Mountain and the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue.

Blissful Brazil

Welcome to a lavish journey that marries adventure with style, featuring stays in carefully chosen four-star hotels. This reinvigorating trip will have you sightseeing in São Paulo, gazing at the spectacular Foz do Iguaçu falls and relaxing on Rio's finest beaches before you know it.

Breathtaking Brazil: Rio, Beaches and Waterfalls

Explore the lively city of Rio de Janeiro, home to Ipanema and Copacabana beaches; experience the stunning Foz do Iguaçu National Park and see the world’s largest waterfalls system; immerse yourself in cultural Salvador, the magnificent former capital of Portugal’s New World colony.

Extraordinary Brazil - Paraty & Iguaçu

Combine adventure and nature in Paraty with the stunning Iguaçu waterfalls. Your trip starts in the colonial town Paraty, Costa Verde's main attraction. Jeep rides, beaches, and a lot of culture are part of the program. Afterwards, fly to Foz do Iguaçu and see the falls from both Argentina & Brazil.

Jaguars in North Pantanal

Spend a week in a lodge in North Pantanal with boat tours, walking trails, horseback riding and an unforgettable Jaguar expedition. Experienced wildlife guides are available in the lodge to explain more of the fascinating fauna and flora around you.

Pure Wildlife - North Pantanal & Amazonia

Discover the world's largest continental flood area - the Pantanal, one of the richest places in biodiversity. Continue your wildlife trip to the Amazon River. Your lodges throughout the trip are located right in nature, with easy access to lodge trails around.

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updated 26.04.2021

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Recife, Brazil – City Guide for Nomads and Expats

March 8, 2017

Recife, Pernambuco, Brazil

Best to get this out of the way first: Recife is one of the more dangerous large cities in Brazil. Back in 2017 Recife was considered more dangerous than other cities in the Nordeste region. In 2022, things have calmed down a bit. Now Recife is just about the same as the other Nordeste cities. If you’ve been to Rio, you’ll be fine. You need to have street smarts here, but more on that in the safety section.

Recife is the largest city in the northeast region of Brazil, and is the most important commercial centre in the region. Many bridges, rivers and small islands are responsible for it being dubbed “The Venice of Brazil”. There are good museums, historical parts, nice parties, cool cafes (and good wifi and hubs to work).

Recife is also known as the launchpad for trips to Fernando de Noronha. Most flights, even those leaving through Sao Paulo, stop in Recife. This is because Recife and Fernando de Noronha are both part of the Brazilian state of Pernambuco. 

POPULATION:  1,600,000 

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RENT AN APARTMENT IN RECIFE

You can get an oceanfront apartment here for a really good price. $600 is the minimum price to rent a place in a decent neighbourhood. Recife is a very economical destination an you should be able to find something decent at a good price.

BEST BARS & NIGHTLIFE IN RECIFE

7.5/10 

The best bars and clubs are in the Boa Viagem and Soledade neighbourhoods. It depends what types of bars and clubs you like. There are nice bars around Casa Forte, Espinheiro and Poço da Panela neighborhoods as well. 

Tons of bars. Have you noticed that this seems to be a theme in Brazil? The people love to party! I will focus on Boa Viagem because it is where most tourists will stay.

Bars that My Latin Life recommends:

Iguana Cafe: I’m sure you didn’t come all the way to Brazil to hang out at a Mexican-themed bar, but this one is worth a look. And the people who come here are beautiful and not stuck up.

THINGS TO DO IN RECIFE

If you want to hike, see a different landscape and check out some cave paintings you can go to Parque Nacional do Vale do Catimbau . 

Fly to Fernando de Noronha . The flights can be expensive, but it’s worth it.

LEARNING PORTUGUESE

If you want to make the most of your time in Brazil, you will need to speak some Spanish. You may find that English levels are quite low in Recifce. Rocket Portuguese is the best resource for learning Portuguese quickly and easily .

BEST BEACHES IN RECIFE

The beaches in the city are okay, but the best ones are outside the city. The best beaches in Recife are:

• Praia dos Carneiros
• Praia de Maracaípe
• Pontal de Maracaípe (more local, good for surfing too)
• Porto de Galinhas (kinda overrated, but close to Maracaípe)
• Praia de Calhetas
• Praia do Paiva
• Praia de Gravatá
• Praia de Japaratinga
• São José da Coroa Grande

IS RECIFE SAFE?

Recife is dangerous. Gang violence and petty crime are too common here. On streets, busses and taxis, robberies occur. Don’t wear jewellery. Don’t show off your cellphone. Don’t walk long distances for leisure. These are rules that apply for any big city in Brazil.

COST OF LIVING IN RECIFE 

The following data is from Expatistan, a crowdsourced database of prices and cost of living around the world. In our experience, the data tends to underestimate cost of living, so take the following as the minimum you might need to live here.

*Figures are listed in USD

You’ll need a minimum of $754 USD/month to live in Recife, Brazil

FINAL THOUGHTS

It doesn’t quite cut it. The city is too dangerous and, unlike the equally dangerous city of Salvador, doesn’t offer enough to counteract that unfortunate fact. Rental properties here are also inexplicably expensive. If you are headed from Salvador to Fortaleza or Natal, you might as well pop in for a visit, but I wouldn’t suggest going too far out of your way to experience Recife.

OVERALL RATING: 7/10

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Top 10 Things To Do In Recife

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Recife is the capital city of Pernambuco in Northern Brazil . It’s a fast-growing commercial city in the country. Although urban lifestyle is gaining popularity in this city, it still holds onto its cultural roots. Olinda, a historic UNESCO world heritage site, is just 6.3 miles (10.2km) away from Recife. Like its neighbor, Recife is also home to many historical landmarks. Some of the notable places include a 16th-century town center, Golden Chapel, 18th-century Churches, lighthouses, and more. Check out our list of top things to do in Recife.

Recife is a city of carnivals, busy shopping areas, and a colorful old town. This city gets its name after a reef that protects it. It also has many rivers, peninsulas, islets, and more than 50 bridges. Hence, it is popularly known as the “Brazillian Venice .” Another striking scenic beauty in Recife is it’s long-stretched Boa Viagem beach. It has the picturesque blue ocean on one side and the upbeat restaurants, resorts, and nightlife on the other. Recife is a lively city that celebrates art culture and nature.

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Boa Viagem, Recife, Pernambuco, Brazil

Relaxing by the beach is an ultimate pastime activity in Brazil. Boa Viegam in Recife is one such destination where you can unwind yourself. This long stretch of beach in Recife has many restaurants, bars, and shopping spaces that create an upmarket vibe. The calm and clear turquoise waters at Boa Viagem are the exact opposite of the busy life inshore. The rocky reefs protecting Boa Viegam, along with the shallow waters create pool-like structures that attract many families. Furthermore, the beachfront bars and nightclubs illuminate the whole beach and create a party vibe. Boa Viagem is the best place to experience nightlife in Recife.

Marco Zero Square

When speaking of the top things to do in Recife, the prominent spot that comes to everyone’s mind is the Marco Zero Square. Marco Zero Square is known as the real heart of Recife. This colorful shopping area is in the Recife Antigo quarter of the city. It is the ground zero from where all the distances of the Pernambuco region are calculated. Enjoy the breathtaking views of the reef and the sculpture park from the Marco Zero Square. You can also walk to the Handicraft Center of Pernambuco to shop for unique souvenirs to carry home. It is a perfect spot to enjoy an evening drink or click a picture with historic Recife buildings in the background.

Recife’s Old Town

After hitting the Marco Zero Square, explore Recife’s historic buildings on a walking tour. Check out the beautiful sculptures at the  Parque das Esculturas Francisco Brennand that is on the other side of the pier. Be amazed by the modern musical museum honoring the famous Brazillian singer-composer Luiz Gonzaga. Another exciting place to visit is the Caixa Cultural Recife and its many exhibits about north-eastern Brazillian culture. Don’t forget to check out the Statue of Barão do Rio Branco, and the famous wind rose at the center of the ground-zero area.

The Portuguese colonizers founded Recife’s old town in the year 1537. It is home to many government buildings, the Recife port, and the oldest synagogue of the Americas. The best way to explore the pastel-shaded architectural wonders in this city is to go on a guided cultural and walking tour of Old Recife . You can also check out the several colorful old buildings that have taken the shape of modern bars and restaurants.

Instituto Ricardo Brennand

Instituto Ricardo Brennand is a cultural institution in Recife created by Brazillian collector Ricardo Brennand in 2002. This institution comprises of a large park, library, museum, and an art gallery. The institution is inside almost 20 acres (77,500 sq.m) of the Atlantic reserve forest. This museum holds a permanent collection of unique artifacts from the middle-ages till the 20th century. These artifacts are of considerable significance to the Dutch and Colonial periods in Brazil.

The art gallery holds the most extensive collection of the artworks of the Dutch-Golden-Era painter Frans Post. The museum also holds the world’s biggest collection of ordinances. It consists of more than 3,000 pieces passed during the period 14th to 19th century. The library, on the other hand, is home to more than 62,000 volumes of books from the middle ages. Instituto Ricardo Brennand is a very modern museum with a robust exterior that makes you feel like you’re entering a fort. Explore the rare works of Brasiliana with the help of a  Ricardo Brennand Institute ticket.

Oficina Ceramica Francisco Brennand

Oficina Ceramica Fransico Brennand is a representation of timeless art and hard work by famous ceramic plaster artist, Francisco Brennand. This art gallery holds the old ruins of São João da Várzea ceramic works by Francisco Brennand’s father (1917). Honoring his father’s legacy, Fransico Brennand worked for 34 long years to create the sculpture complex designed from an old brick and tile factory. This workshop is a monumental architectural ensemble, built on the remains of the Atlantic Forests and the waters Capibaribe River. You will also be lucky to meet the man behind the spectacular creations in this place

To experience the whole vibe of this place, you can go on a half-day tour to Oficina Ceramica Francisco Brennand grounds, and explore its many art galleries, sculptures, and breathtaking tropical gardens.

Casa de Cultura

Pernambuco’s famous culture house situated in the 19th-century detention center buildings is a must-go spot in Recife. This culture house has more than 150 hand-craft stores in former cells that housed famous personalities like Paulo Cavalcanti, Antonio Silvino, Graciliano Ramos, Gregory Bezerra, and so on. There are also many book stores and eateries that will amaze you at Casa De Cultura. This culture house is a one-stop spot to experience the vibrant art, delicious local foods, history, and warm hospitality of the people of Recife.

This center attracts about 500 to 700 visitors every day. To experience this place like a local, you can explore this prison converted to artists’ market on a private city tour to Recife . Shop for souvenirs made of clay or ceramic, exclusive leather goods, terracotta, and wooden figures, curtains, blankets, key chains, fridge magnets, and more in this center. Notably, Casa De Cultura is the largest culture and art center in the Pernambuco region. It is popularly known as the “Fortress of Culture.”

The carnivals are one of the most important things to do in Recife that no traveler should miss. The annual Carnival celebrations happen during February. The carnival season is the best time to visit Recife. Although Brazillian carnivals are, in general, world-famous, this fiesta of Recife and Olinda is a rare sight to witness as the two cities excel by competing against one another. The Carnival of Recife attracts more than a million visitors every year. Also, the practice sessions start as early as two months in advance. Experience the best of native Indian and African maracatu in your veins as you enjoy the passionate frevo performances.

Party till the Sun goes down as you have another amazing spectate to experience at night. The drum beats get so intense until the stroke of midnight, that it makes you feel like you are in Africa. But, the minute clock hits twelve, the drum beats fall silent as a gesture of remembrance to the ancestors of the land. The stroke of midnight during the carnival is a magnificent moment of culture at Praca Terco, Recife. Following the silencing of drums is the prayer session where you will witness the entire crowd expressing their gratitude to God by lifting their hands.

Porto De Galinhas

Porto De Galinhas is a spectacular beach on the southern shores of the Pernambuco region. Porto De Galinhas is one of the top ten beaches in Brazil. It is also the best beach in the Pernambuco region. This beach offers a wide range of water activities and breath-taking turquoise ocean views. Porto De Galinhas is just 37 miles (60 km) away from Recife. You can plan a day tour to Porto De Galinhas from Recife and explore the many natural pools of this place. You can also take a quick boat ride to reach the pools and enjoy 40 minutes of snorkeling in the Atlantic waters. Furthermore, enjoy hours of shopping, eating, and hanging out at the port. Enjoy the delicious freshly caught seafood and other local specialties at Porto De Galinhas.

Tamandaré is an amazing coastal city that is just 66 miles (107km) away from the Pernambuco capital. This city is home to many beaches such as Tamandaré Beach, Pontal do Lira, Barra, dos Carneiros, and Campas. These beaches are known for their calm and clear waters that are suitable for various water sport activities. It is also notable that the Carneiros Beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world . You can also explore the 17th century Fort of Saint Ignatius near Tamandare Beach. Although there are many cabs and ride facilities available from Recife to Tamandare, none can match the comforts of a private transfer from Recife airport to Tamandare .

Olinda, the neighboring city of Recife, is the main attraction that brings a lot of tourism to Recife. This city itself is a museum of timeless history that is recorded as a UNESCO World Heritage city. This open-air living museum comprises of many colonial houses, pastel-colored historic buildings, and churches that you can explore from Recife. Learn about the origin of the lively Brazillian culture and explore the old stone buildings of Olinda. Some of the notable spots in this city are Olinda historic center, Alto Da Se, the monastery of St. Benedict, the convent of St. Fransisco, Carmo Church, and more. Although there are several things to do in Recife, your trip will not be complete without a visit to Olinda.

Just So You Know:

• Baobob Garden is a part of The Capibaribe Park that was developed by the city of Recife and INCITI for people to reconnect with nature. An African Baobob is called the “Tree of Life.”
• Recife Port is the first slave port in the Americas and was founded in 1537 by Dutch Colonizers.
• Recife hosted the 1950 FIFA world cup and 2013 FIFA Confederations Cup.
• This city is Brazil’s second-biggest medical hub (next to Sao Paulo) with state-of-the-art facilities. It offers treatment for several patients in Northern and North-Eastern Brazil.
• The city flag consists of a lion holding a cross, with the slogan “Virtus Et Fides,” meaning “Power of Faith.”

Where to Stay:

• ⭐⭐⭐ Hotel Enseada Boa Viagem is located at a walking distance (650m) from Boa Viagem beach. The rooms carry elegant decor featuring free Wi-Fi, air-conditioning, a flat-screen TV, and an ensuite bathroom. The hotel also has a free parking facility.
• ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Internacional Palace Hotel is a beachfront property offering spectacular sea views. You can also enjoy a relaxing dip in their outdoor swimming pool. You can enjoy delicious food and drinks at the on-site restaurant and bar. The rooms are spacious and amenity-rich.
• ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Hotel Atlante Plaza is a luxury hotel with a rooftop oceanfront pool and a sun terrace. This hotel also features a state-of-the-art fitness center. The restaurant on-site serves the best breakfast in town.

Get Some Culture:

• Rua do Bom Jesus Island is a significant cultural attraction located just a few minutes from the Marco Zero Square. This island is home to the famous Kahal Zur Synagogue, Praca Artur Oscar, and Malakoff Tower. You can witness free outdoor concerts happening on this Island during the weekends.
• Paço do Frevo museum aims at the preservation and transfer of knowledge about Recife’s dance and music form called Frevo to the future generations. You can learn the Frevo art form in this museum.
• Museu Cais do Sertao is a museum on the Port of Recife that was opened to honor the life, culture, and stories of the Sertanejo people. The former warehouses at Recife Port have taken the shape of a beautiful museum to celebrate the land’s culture.

Grab A Bite:

• Camarada Camaro is the best restaurant to enjoy delectable seafood in Recife. This restaurant carries a rustic and casual ocean-themed decor and serves the authentic tastes of Brazil.
• Recife and Olinda are famous for their delicious traditional foods. Go on a food tour to Olinda to enjoy the rich history of the city and its lip-smacking traditional Brazillian meal.

Author:  Peter S

A travel blogger and the founder of WOW Travel, Peter is a crazy dreamer with an insatiable desire for adventure who could never settle for an ordinary life or conform with the norm. After visiting more than 50 countries, he aims to travel with a purpose and inspire people to do the same.

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36 Hours in Recife (and Environs)

A different kind of Brazil is waiting in the country’s lively northeast corner, where musical, culinary and architectural marvels await.

By Shannon Sims

Many people visiting Brazil make a beeline for the beaches of Rio de Janeiro. In doing so, they fly over Brazil’s fourth largest city, and one of the most culturally fascinating regions in the country. Recife and the northeastern corner of Brazil are a world apart from Rio, São Paulo and the rest of southern Brazil. The climate is hotter, and much of the food and music can only be authentically consumed in the region itself. It is also a hub of Brazilian political agitation (the northeast, of which Recife is a de facto capital, was the only region to vote against the right-wing president, Jair Bolsonaro, in the last election). Visitors today will find a city that seems at first glance unlovable: One of the most famous songs about the city — and an example of a Recife music genre called manguebeat, or mangrove beat — is called “Rivers, Bridges and Overpasses” (“Rios, Pontes e Overdrives”), and that’s what Recife’s center looks like, to a large extent. But farther south are the teal waters of Boa Viagem beach, and north is the charmingly colorful pocket community of Olinda. Just a few days in the area will have visitors appreciating a different kind of Brazil.

(Note: Although the fires from the Amazon region have led to smoky skies in São Paulo in southeastern Brazil, no smoke or fires have been reported in Recife, which is 2,000 miles from the fires in the Amazon Basin.)

36 Hours in Recife

1) 12 p.m. downtown lunch.

This is a city that loves to lunch — a good excuse to get out of the intense midday sun. In a cobblestone alleyway running alongside the São Pedro square of central Recife, the tiny, mint-green São Pedro Restaurant offers a Parisian sidewalk setting amid the hustle and bustle of weekday Recife. The menu consists of four or five rotating items, among them: delicious caldo do mar, or seafood soup, which is tomato-based and packed with rock clams, shrimp and fish; and arroz de carangueijo, or crab rice, a paella-like skillet dramatically adorned with crab claws. A bottle of Portuguese vinho verde suits the setting perfectly. Lunch for two without wine, 70 reais, or about $17.

2) 2 p.m. Artisanal browsing

Head over to Marco Zero — the central axis from which the rest of Recife sprawls out, and the center of cultural preservation for the city. There is plenty to do there, so split it up between today and tomorrow by starting with the Centro de Artesanato de Pernambuco , an introduction to local artisan offerings, from clay kitchenware to Carnaval iconography, some of which is available for purchase. Then, if you need a jolt, grab an espresso at the local northeastern grinder Cafe São Braz across the plaza.

3) 4 p.m. Sunset on the Capivara

Skip Friday rush hour and taxi over to the dock for a one-and-a-half-hour sunset cruise of historic downtown Recife and its many bridges from the vantage point of the Capibaribe (Capivara) River. From the open-air catamaran, look for the ceramic statues of the Sculpture Park of Francisco Brennand, with works by one of the most famous artists from Recife lining the jetty across from Marco Zero. Catamaran Tours operates a 4 p.m. departure that catches the sunset on the way back. Check the schedule ahead of time. Cost: 60 reais per adult.

4) 7:30 p.m. Northeast feast

The best way to embrace the scope of northeastern cuisine is at Parraxaxá, in the Boa Viagem neighborhood, where a traditional Brazilian per-kilo buffet turns into a cornucopia of otherwise difficult to find local foods worth trying, such as stewed goat with dried coconut and pumpkin, carne-de-sol steak (a kind of brisket) covered in queijo coalho (a local cheese), and fruit juices made from gritty cajá and milky cashew fruit. It’s also the perfect place to load up on the leafy greens you might crave post-travel. Dinner for two, 80 reais.

5) 9 a.m. Zero marks the spot

Head back to Marco Zero for a deeper dive into the city’s culture. For a glimpse of the region’s drought-stricken hinterlands, walk over to the Museum Cais do Sertão (entry, 10 reais), where typical hinterland home life is depicted in a family-friendly exhibition, and where listening booths allow you to hear the sounds of Pernambuco state’s rich musical history. Sample chewy cashew brittle from the vendor carts around the square outside.

6) Noon. Made in the shade

Featuring a shady courtyard of fruit trees and an artisan beer list, Cá-Já is a new hot spot, run by a young chef whose food emphasizes fresh vegetables. A house-grown roasted vegetable bowl, frog-meat won tons in umami broth, and a small plant pot full of chocolate are some of the dishes to be had, often beneath a blanket of fresh herbs. Reservations suggested. Lunch for two, 100 reais.

7) 3 p.m. Olinda, the beautiful

What Recife lacks in aesthetic character is more than made up for by its suburb Olinda, whose historic center, a UNESCO site and one of the best preserved colonial centers in Brazil, is 20 minutes north of Recife. Colorful, winding stone streets, terra-cotta rooftops and swaying palms make Olinda a photographer’s dream; feel free to get lost. A good starting point is the first church of Brazil, the Sé Cathedral , at the top of a hill called Alto da Sé; besides being the center of Olinda, it offers a glorious view across the expanse of the Olinda-Recife area. Around February, Olinda transforms into a feverishly packed Carnaval party town; it is one of the top destinations for Carnaval celebrations in the world. To get an off-season taste, pop into the Casa dos Bonecos Gigantes (House of the Giant Puppets), where some of the traditional papier-mâché puppets that stiffly swing through the crowds during Carnaval are stored (entry 15 reais). Shoppers will devour tropical sundresses and other handmade finds at the female-owned atelier Período Fértil , and canvases by local artists at Sobrado 7 . Keep a pep in your step with a coffee at Estaçao Cafe , a fresh coconut water from one of the vendors at Alto da Sé, or something a bit stronger (like local cachaça) at the funky Bodega de Véio .

8) 7 p.m. Sunset and seafood

Once your calves are burning from the up and down of Olinda’s cobblestone hills, duck through the leafy entrance and take a glass elevator down to the treehouse-like Beijupirá , where local ingredients take a sophisticated turn. Try unusual cocktails made from hard-to-find fruit, like an acerola — or tart Brazilian cherry — caipirinha, before tucking into grilled fish and mango coated in sesame seeds. In mild weather, call several days ahead to reserve one of the few tables on the veranda overlooking Recife. Dinner for two, 160 reais.

9) 10 p.m. People-watching

Back in Recife, head to Bar Central in Recife’s historic district, where rickety sidewalk tables are set out in front of a compact block of bars. There you’ll find cold beer and casually divine people-watching, especially on weekend nights.

10) 10:30 a.m. Beach and bike

Join the crowds enjoying their Sunday morning in the sunshine of Boa Viagem beach. Between the waves and the occasional sharks (really), many locals just enjoy the turquoise horizon from their beach chairs. Pick-up basketball, bike rentals, beach volleyball and tennis are all options for those wanting to burn off the weekend.

11) 1:30 p.m. Oysters and beer

At Entre Amigos Praia , you can enjoy chic, oceanfront Miami vibes and fresh oysters from the region, scooped from a tank and served raw along with ice-cold beer. You might also want to convince your group to go in on a whole fish stuffed with plantains and shrimp-dotted farofa — Brazilian bread crumbs made from yucca. Lunch for two, 160 reais.

12) 4:30 p.m. Drum practice

That rhythm you’ve been hearing all across Recife is called maracatu, a traditional Afro-Brazilian musical form from northeastern Brazil, developed by slaves working the region’s sugar cane fields as a way of retaining their connection to Africa. The sound is intense and disarming, and during Carnaval it is one of the key rhythms heard across Recife. The best way to feel its thunder is to catch an open rehearsal of one of the many maracatu groups, such as the Sunday afternoon rehearsal of Maracatu Ògún Onilê in old Recife. It’s a good idea to read up on the origins and meaning of maracatu before visiting to better appreciate the distinct costumes and instruments, such as the alfaia drum, the agbê beaded gourd, and the gonguê cowbell. The rhythms can be considered sacred, so be discreet and mindful. It is a good idea to ask permission before taking photos or video of any maracatu group.

Theoretically, it would be nice to stay in a quaint inn near the center of Old Recife, but unfortunately, hotels in the center of town are generally either beautiful, but too dilapidated to be functional, or functional, but in a dodgy area. The Pina and Boa Viagem neighborhoods, an eight-minute drive south of town, offer the easiest solution. There, high-rise hotels aimed at the corporate set are chock-a-block, and what they lack in character they make up for in abundant breakfast buffets, beachfront views and strong air-conditioning.

For instance, Transamerica Prestige Beach Class International , which sounds like a Mad Libs of synonyms for “luxury,” is one of the most comfortable lodgings in Recife. It is just across the bridge from central Recife in the Pina neighborhood. At 35 floors, it is one of the tallest hotels along the coast; while imposing, it provides unencumbered views and is closer to Old Recife than the Boa Viagem neighborhood. A lap pool, gym and private balconies help compensate for the otherwise sterile setting. A complimentary breakfast buffet offers fresh juices, Brazilian cheese bread called pão de queijo, and an omelet and tapioca station. (Avenida Boa Viagem 420; transamerica.com.br/nossos-hoteis/transamerica-prestige-beachclass ; from about 300 reais).

Boa Viagem, right next to Pina, is the best neighborhood to find safe independent lodging options similar to high-rise hotels, but without breakfast. Apartments with a beach view range from $25 to $70 on Airbnb.

If you are committed to the Brazilian pousada, or bed-and-breakfast, concept, your best bet is to stay not in Recife but in Olinda, about 20 minutes by car to the north, where colonial homes have been fixed up and splashed with bright colors, making for uniquely memorable ambiences. The Pousada dos Quatro Cantos , with its lush gardens, canopy beds and distinctive decorations, is a fail-safe choice in the heart of Olinda. (Rua Prudente de Moraes 441; pousada4cantos.com.br/en-gb ; from about 250 reais).

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An earlier version of this article misstated the local results of the last presidential election in Recife. Jair Bolsonaro did not win in the city.

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The Many Faces Of Recife

Brazil must surely be one of the best countries in the world for using the Uber taxi service, certainly the best we’ve encountered anywhere so far. Easy, reliable and cheap. We originally intended to hire a car to explore the Olinda/Recife area, but once you realise that a half hour Uber ride can cost as little as £2.60 there’s just no point taking on the driving yourself.

But you know, once you get the hang of Brazil, it’s not altogether odd that Uber works well: this is a surprisingly well developed country in a technological sense. For a start, this is virtually a cashless society, everywhere expects payment by card, and even if you offer cash for a bottle of water costing 48p, you may well be asked for to present a card instead. Only the street vendors deal in cash, nobody else. In addition to that, every single bar, cafe and restaurant, no matter how ramshackle, will have free wifi, usually of a decent standard.

You could be forgiven for getting an incorrect impression of Recife just by entering at a certain point, such is the diversity of its various districts. Head straight to the beach end and you’re in something which resembles Rio de Janeiro, dozens of soaring high rise blocks lining the long, long seafront strip. Arrive in the old town and you’re cast into a world of colonial architecture so grand that you could be exploring a European city. Start at the renovated dockyards and you’ll be surrounded by revitalised wharf buildings bursting with cafe culture. 

Yet take a stroll away from the old town and cross the bridge towards Santo Antonio and you’re forced to walk in the road to circumnavigate the hundreds – literally, hundreds – of homeless people living on the streets. Individuals, groups of males and entire families with children sleeping on cardboard. This is possibly the densest concentration of homelessness we have seen anywhere outside of India.

Our first exploration begins at Marco Zero close to the seafront, an attractive modern plaza from where distances to and from Recife are calculated, close to the classical old town where many impressive colonial buildings are located. The grand street of Rua do Bom Jesus, nowadays mostly pedestrianised, leads away from Plaça Arsenal to trace a route between those bold, imposing buildings which once reflected the wealth of a thriving port city.

Recife was in fact the site of South America’s first ever river bridge, built at the behest of Mauricio de Nassau, Governor of Dutch Brazil, in 1643. Standing at the confluence and joint mouths of two mighty rivers, the Beberibe and Capibaribe, the oldest part of town proudly sits on an island linked to the rest of the city by a series of bridges. Brazil’s fourth largest city with its 1.6 million+ inhabitants is the capital of the state of Pernambuco, and has a long and proud history.

Established by the Portuguese in the early days of colonisation, in 1537, taken briefly by the Dutch before recapture by Portugal, Recife’s considerable wealth grew from the milling of sugar cane from the numerous surrounding plantations, plus the characteristics of its shoreline providing a protected area for development of the port. That protection is provided by a number of offshore natural, but non-coral, reefs which run parallel to the shore: the very name “Recife” is derived from the Portuguese word for reef.

On one such reef, now enhanced and expanded by human input, is the Parque das Esculturas, the Sculpture Park, home to some of the work of one of Recife’s favourite sons, Francisco Brennand – the guy featured in our last post – which we reach via chugging motor boat from the harbour wall. It’s an intriguing first glimpse of his unusual work.

Tucked in amongst those grand colonial buildings along Bom Jesus is America’s oldest synagogue, former embassy buildings and once great mansions. The views of these are remarkable for the differing fortunes of the buildings: some retain an air of grand maturity, others stand in decay: roofless, crumbling and strewn with graffiti, while some, like the wharf buildings at the port, bear the hallmarks of modernisation and adaptation to 21st century life.

And those clashes of cultures, those diverse areas, continue to confound. To reach the gleaming gold interior of the church of Capella Dourada, we have to manoeuvre through hordes of homeless, some begging, most sporting forlorn expressions, and shady looking characters who make us closely guard the contents of our pockets. A burly security guard stands at the church door, a watchful eye on our progress towards the interior.

Capella Dourada

A short distance from the church, hiding behind fences laced with ivy, convolvulus and other climbers, is an arts and crafts market in a most unusual setting. The Casa da Cultura is housed in a former prison where surprisingly little has been done to hide its former incarnation: as we wander through inspecting everything from wood carvings to clothing to bottles of flavoured cachaça, we are left in no doubt as to the building’s original raison d’etre.

Elsewhere in the city there must be current day gaols of much greater proportions, for Recife has a reputation as one of Brazil’s most violent cities with over one thousand shootings per year. However, this misleading statistic should be set against the fact that education here is of a high standard, average earnings are significantly above the national average, and medical and technological studies and services are considerably advanced. 

Our final port of call in Recife is to walk along the beachfront at Boa Viagem – on a Sunday, the favourite day locally for beach time. Once again, the scenes are comical, the concentration of parasols so dense that the entire beach may as well have a roof. Another form of shade comes to the beach early, too – the density and daunting height of the huge high rise blocks means that it’s only half way through the afternoon when the sun’s rays become blocked by the concrete jungle and giant shadows creep across the sand.

Our single day exploring some of this sprawling city has been remarkably varied, such is its rambling diversity and disparate characteristics. Modern, ancient, gleaming, scruffy, clean, filthy, pristine and defaced, one can only hold opinions of districts rather than of Recife as a whole. Turning one small corner can take you from one aura to another. 

And so we move on again, now even closer to the equator, towards the waters of the mighty Amazon and the intensity of the rainforest and jungle…

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27 comments.

Lynette d'Arty-Cross

Wow – you did a lot of exploring for a single day! Recife sounds very eclectic. Thanks for the great piece about it.

Phil & Michaela

A city of many parts

Travels Through My Lens

It’s interesting that Brazil is mostly cashless; we’re in Croatia at the moment and have found that many places do not accept credit cards, only cash. Good to know beforehand. Recife looks very colorful and inviting, particularly the sculpture park. I could easily linger there, but not the crowded beach!

There’s definitely lots of interest, but yes the beach is a no go!

Your observations reflect much of what I’ve read about Recife, Phil, but good to experience it at first hand. When will we get a grip on the homeless situation? And that beach is a nightmare!

We were quite shocked at the level of homelessness, Jo. It was bad in Rio too but Recife really seems to suffer. And it’s a relatively wealthy city, too.

What a city of contrasts! I like the look and sound of the Casa da Cultura, the grand colonial buildings are lovely, and that church looks pretty stunning too. But navigating so many homeless people must be daunting and distressing, and that beach isn’t for me!

Yes, definitely. The beach was amusing to see but we definitely wouldn’t “beach it” there. What makes it even worse is that you are only allowed to go knee deep in the water, no further, as these are shark-infested waters!

Andrew Petcher

Looks fabulous. Great gallery.

Fabulous in parts….

Monkey's Tale

Recife’s contrasts continue for many of the cities along that stretch of coast, so you saw a good representation.

I guess we did

WanderingCanadians

You covered a lot of ground on your day trip. It’s unfortunate to hear how many homeless people are living on the streets though.

It really is a shock when you first encounter it in such quantity. Interesting and varied city though.

grandmisadventures

What a wonderful whirlwind tour of this city! It is one of those cities that I have heard the name a lot but knew very little about so I really enjoyed the tour of it with you 🙂

Thank you Meg. We’re just now at the departure airport for leaving Brazil. Next stop New Orleans!

wahoo! New Orleans here you come. I think you’ll love it there- it is a place of its own. I’ll send you an email so we can connect when you come to Tennessee 🙂

That would be great! At the minute (subject to tweaks) Nashville is looking like 3-6 May, something like that

Sounds like a very dodgy place, your’re both very brave to venture there. You managed to cram in so much in one day though.

Only in certain places really Ali. Much of it was fine.

wetanddustyroads

Recife is definitely a diverse city. One can hardly believe there are so many homeless people when looking at your photos of Rua Bom Jesus and the beautiful colonial buildings. The beach is a bit too crowded to my liking, but I suppose for the residents of Recife, this is what a weekend looks like when the sun is shining.

That beach was not at all appealing but was amusing to see. Interesting and varied city though.

Annie Berger

Thanks for the interesting tour of Recife – as I suspect you both did, I found the pastel-colored colonial buildings and Brennand’s sculpture park of particular interest. We love beaches but definitely not ones shaded by high rises for a good chunk of the day, nor completely covered by beach umbrellas. How sad that such a relatively well-to-do city has such a large homeless problem. I still remember being unnerved by the same issue in Sao Paulo years ago. welcome to the US – I hope you have fun in The Big Easy!

Hi Annie. We arrived last night and started with a stroll down Bourbon Street. The Amazon jungle to Bourbon Street in one move. Talk about culture shock!! 😂

I laughed as I read that as I can only imagine the contrast must have been a shock to all your systems!

Mmm… not a place I would enjoy despite the interesting colonial buildings.

A curate’s egg kinda place, Jude…

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Get to Know Recife: Rich Cultural Heritage and Stunning Beaches

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Arts & Culture

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Curator’s statement

Recife, often referred to as the "Venice of Brazil," is a city where history, culture and natural beauty coalesce into a vibrant urban tapestry. This comprehensive guide delves deeper into what makes Recife a must-visit destination in the northeast region of Brazil, offering travelers a well-rounded experience of its offerings

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Where to stay in Recife, Brazil

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Things to do in Recife, Brazil

Welcome to Recife, a gem of Brazil's Northeast and a city rich with culture, history and breathtaking natural beauty.

Known as the "Venice of Brazil" for its intricate system of rivers, islands and bridges, Recife offers a unique blend of old-world charm and modern vibrancy.

This guide will take you through the heart of Recife, from the historical streets of Recife Antigo to the lively beats of its famous Carnival, and the serene waters of Boa Viagem Beach. Whether you're here to explore the depth of Brazilian history at the Instituto Ricardo Brennand, or simply enjoy the sun and sea, Recife provides an array of experiences. Prepare to immerse yourself in the local culture, cuisine and spectacular coastal scenery that make Recife a must-visit destination.

Recife Antigo (Old Recife)

Location: Center of Recife

Recife Antigo, the historical heart of Recife, is where the city’s vibrant past and present converge. This district is the original site where Recife was founded in the 16th century, and today it stands as a living museum, adorned with the architectural legacy of its colonial history. The streets here are a picturesque tableau, lined with colorful buildings whose facades are painted in bright hues, and the ground underfoot is a mosaic of ancient cobblestones, each telling a story of the era they were laid down.

A focal point of Recife Antigo is the Marco Zero Square, the very spot from which the city grew. It is more than just a historical landmark— it is a dynamic center of cultural life in Recife. The square is often filled with the vibrant energy of cultural festivities that draw locals and tourists alike. These include live musical performances, art installations and exhibitions that showcase the works of local artists, reflecting the rich artistic spirit of the region.

Surrounding Marco Zero are numerous other attractions that contribute to the area’s cultural richness. The Cais do Sertão Museum, located nearby, offers an immersive experience into the life and culture of the northeastern hinterland through interactive exhibits. Just a stone’s throw away, the Embaixada dos Bonecos Gigantes provides a unique glimpse into the traditional giant doll parades, a staple of Brazilian carnival culture.

Moreover, Recife Antigo’s revitalized dock area, once a busy port, now hosts a variety of bars, restaurants and artisan shops. This transformation from a commercial hub to a leisure district provides a perfect example of how the city honors its past while embracing modernity. The area’s nightlife is particularly notable, with venues offering live music ranging from traditional Maracatu and Frevo to modern Brazilian Pop, making it a perfect spot for evening outings.

Instituto Ricardo Brennand

Location: In the suburb of Várzea

The Instituto Ricardo Brennand, located in the tranquil suburbs of Recife, stands as a majestic cultural beacon. This unique institution is thoughtfully divided into three main sections: a museum, an art gallery and a library, each offering a distinct yet interconnected experience centered around art and history.

As a museum, the Instituto Ricardo Brennand houses an extensive collection of historical artifacts, which span several centuries and continents. Among its most celebrated collections are antique armory and weaponry. Visitors can explore displays of medieval armor, Renaissance-era swords, and firearms from various historical periods, each meticulously preserved and presented. This collection not only provides a window into the martial history of the world but also the technological advancements and artistic craftsmanship of armory through the ages.

The art gallery section of the institute emphasizes works from the colonial period in Brazil, particularly during the time of the Dutch invasion of Recife. This focus allows visitors to delve into a pivotal era in Brazilian history, seen through the lens of both Brazilian and Dutch artists of the time. The artworks, ranging from classical paintings to sculptures and tapestries, narrate stories of conquest, colonization and the cultural exchanges that these historical episodes entailed.

In addition to these, the institute also boasts a library filled with rare books and manuscripts, many of which are related to the history of Brazil and its colonization. Scholars and enthusiasts alike can access a wealth of primary sources that document the rich tapestry of Brazil’s past, offering insights not only into the country's colonial times but also into its indigenous cultures and the subsequent development of its national identity.

The architectural design of the Instituto Ricardo Brennand itself is a masterpiece. Gothic-style elements dominate the structural aesthetics, creating an ambiance that feels both ancient and timeless. The building is complemented by beautifully manicured gardens that surround it, featuring native Brazilian flora and designed with serene water features and quaint pathways. These gardens serve as a verdant oasis, inviting visitors to stroll and reflect amid the tranquility, away from the bustling urban environment of Recife.

Museu Cais do Sertão

Location: Near the Port of Recife

This museum is an ode to the northeastern Brazilian hinterland, the Sertão, and its people. It uses state-of-the-art technology and interactive displays to convey the harsh life and rich culture of the Sertão. Exhibits are dedicated to the music, crafts, and daily life of the region, with special emphasis on the legendary musician Luiz Gonzaga, who is revered for popularizing the Baião music genre.

Boa Viagem Beach

Location: Along the southern coast of Recife

Boa Viagem is not only the most famous beach in Recife but also one of the most beloved urban beaches in Brazil. Stretching over seven kilometers along the picturesque Atlantic coast, it is a magnet for both locals and tourists seeking sun, sea and sand. The expansive shoreline is lined with soft, golden sand, making it the perfect destination for beachgoers looking to relax, sunbathe or indulge in beach sports like volleyball and soccer.

The waters off Boa Viagem are uniquely protected by a long, natural reef barrier, which runs parallel to the coast. This barrier creates a calm, shallow lagoon between the reef and the beach, particularly during low tide when it is most visible. During these times, natural pools form within the lagoon, providing safe and serene spots for swimming and snorkeling. These pools are warm and clear, offering a tranquil retreat from the often rougher open ocean waters.

Good to know: Swimmers should be cautious of sharp coral and heed local warnings about shark safety.

Parque Dona Lindu

Location: In the Boa Viagem neighborhood

Designed by the acclaimed Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, this park is a cultural hotspot in Recife. It features a modernist landscape design and houses an art gallery, a theater and an open-air amphitheater where frequent cultural events and concerts are held. The park is named after the mother of former Brazilian President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva.

Catamaran Tours

Exploring Recife’s waterways offers a distinctive perspective on the city’s architecture and bustling river life. These tours navigate through the Capibaribe River and around the city’s islands, offering insights into Recife’s history and development from an aquatic viewpoint. Evening tours are particularly magical, offering views of the city's lights twinkling on the water.

Central to this celebration is the frevo, a high-energy dance and music genre that originated in Pernambuco in the late 19th century. Characterized by fast-paced beats and accompanied by brass bands, frevo involves dancers, known as "passistas," performing acrobatic moves while holding small, colorful umbrellas. This dance is not only a thrilling spectacle but also a cultural symbol, expressing the joyful and resilient spirit of the local people.

The highlight of Recife's Carnival is undoubtedly the Galo da Madrugada, or "Dawn Rooster" parade. It occurs on the first Saturday of Carnival and is renowned for its monumental scale, having been officially recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest carnival parade globally. The streets overflow with millions of revelers who come together from all walks of life to participate in this grand event. The parade is led by a giant rooster effigy, which has become an emblem of the parade and symbolizes the wake-up call for the city to begin its festivities.

Participants in the Galo da Madrugada are adorned in vibrant costumes and face paints, dancing to the rhythm of frevo and other local music styles like maracatu and caboclinhos, each style bringing its own rhythm, history, and dance moves to the streets. The parade weaves through central Recife, starting from Forte das Cinco Pontas, a historic fort, and making its way through key city landmarks, creating a spectacle of sound and color that encapsulates the essence of Pernambuco's carnival tradition.

Practical Tips

When to Visit: The best time to visit Recife is between September and March, when the weather is drier and warmer, ideal for enjoying the beaches and outdoor activities.

Getting Around: The city has a comprehensive public transport system, including buses and the metro, which are both economical ways to travel.

Taxis and ride-sharing services like Uber are widely available and recommended for safety and convenience.

Safety Tips: Tourists should exercise caution after dark and in less populated areas. It's wise to stay alert and keep valuables secure.

Recife offers a profound cultural immersion combined with natural beauty, making it a compelling destination for those looking to explore the depth of Brazil's heritage and contemporary vibrancy. Whether you're dancing to frevo during Carnival, relaxing on the beach or exploring the rich tapestry of its cultural sites, Recife offers a myriad of experiences that cater to all tastes and interests.

Olinda is often regarded as the perfect day trip destination from Recife, due to its close proximity and rich cultural and historical offerings.

Just a few kilometers north of Recife, Olinda is a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its well-preserved colonial architecture, vibrant arts scene and scenic beauty.

One of the main draws of Olinda is its historical significance. The city's streets are lined with colorful, centuries-old buildings, baroque churches and convents that tell the story of Brazil's colonial past. Visitors can explore these architectural marvels and gain insights into the rich history that shapes this region.

Art and culture thrive in Olinda. The city is famous for its lively Carnival, which is considered one of the most authentic and artistic in Brazil. Outside of Carnival season, Olinda continues to buzz with cultural activities, including handicraft markets, music performances and capoeira demonstrations. Art galleries and workshops provide a glimpse into local creative practices.

The city's elevated location offers panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean, making it not only a feast for the eyes but also a peaceful retreat from the bustling urban atmosphere of Recife. The small hilltop city allows for leisurely exploration, with charming cafés and artisan shops around every corner.

Places to eat & drink in Recife, Brazil

Location: Santo Amaro, Recife

Cuisine: Traditional Portuguese

Highlight: As the oldest restaurant in Recife, established in 1882, Leite offers a classic ambiance and specializes in refined Portuguese cuisine. The menu features delicacies such as bacalhau (salted cod) and other seafood dishes, prepared with a timeless touch.

Location: Casa Forte, Recife

Cuisine: Northeastern Brazilian

Highlight: Parraxaxá provides a colorful and vibrant atmosphere where guests can enjoy traditional northeastern Brazilian dishes. The buffet-style service allows diners to sample a variety of local flavors, including sun-dried beef, cassava and an array of regional desserts.

Location: Boa Viagem, Recife

Cuisine: Seafood

Highlight: Known for its fresh and expansive selection of seafood, Bargaço is a favorite among locals and tourists. The restaurant's casual setting is perfect for enjoying specialties like lobster, shrimp and a famous fish stew known as moqueca.

Location: Cabanga, Recife

Cuisine: Peruvian

Highlight: Chicama offers a unique culinary experience with its menu of exquisite Peruvian dishes, particularly ceviche. The restaurant's décor is inspired by coastal Peruvian culture, providing a delightful backdrop for dining.

Cuisine: Contemporary

Highlight: Mingus is a fine-dining establishment with a sophisticated menu that blends Brazilian ingredients with international cooking techniques. The ambiance is elegant and ideal for a special night out, featuring live jazz music on select evenings.

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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Brazil . For more travel tips, check out my guide, A Flavorful Journey Through Brazil’s Beloved Drinks: From Coffee to Caipirinhas.

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Recife City Info

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Recife is the beautiful capital city of Pernambuco State. Thousands of tourists travel to this fantastic city every year for its remarkable ancient buildings, rivers, and bridges, and of course, its marvellous beaches. It is also called a ‘Brazilian Venice’ for its long rivers and bridges built on it.

Recife is a perfect destination to spend a long beach vacation. Beaches are spread on both sides of the city, i.e. on the north and south sides. Experience the warm and wide sand strips on the famous beaches of this picturesque city. Carnival also attracts a lot of tourists in the month of January.

Tipping is not expected as it is not the Brazilian style. However, if someone is seriously giving good services and food, it is expected in appreciation, especially from foreigners. Usually, service charges are included at the bottom of the bill, but it is not mandatory to pay it but just expected in the form of tipping.

For taxi drivers, tipping is not compulsory, but it is usual to round up the fare as a form of tip for their service. Special or radio taxis do not use typical taximeters and always charge more than the original amount, so tipping is not expected.

The crime rate in Recife is relatively high, so it is better to follow a few security tips whilst travelling. Major crime incidents like assault, robbery, theft and burglary are significant threats for tourists in this city. It is advisable to be alert from pickpockets and bag snatchers. It is advisable to be alert, keep an eye on the surroundings, and take the following precautions.

• It is not safe to travel in public transportation, especially at night. Taxis with a permit license will be a safer and more efficient option to explore the city at any time.
• Stay away from streets where crime targets can be easily trapped and avoid eye contact with the street gangs. If you come across a suspicious environment, it is better to cross the street as soon as possible and enter any public areas like banks, malls, or stores.
• It is advisable to be more careful in popular tourist areas or while shopping in open markets.
• It is always good to travel in a group instead of roaming alone.
• It is always wise to use the peep-hole to confirm the visitor at the door in hotel rooms.
• Avoid exposing valuable items and expensive jewellery while visiting famous places that may seek the attention of thieves.
• After dark, it is not safe to visit beaches or parks.
• It is better to either carry a cell phone or rent one; it will always be easy to dial telephone numbers for emergency services.

Brazil comes under a centralised law of smoke-free, and now even Recife city is entirely smoke-free. According to law, smoking is forbidden in all public places, including clubs, bars, and restaurants. Smoking at specific smoking zones or ventilated smoking rooms is permitted.

In Brazil, different activities are carried out to reduce smoking in Bars and clubs and abolish smoking zones or rooms altogether. Many hotels or resorts provide mainly non-smoking rooms, so it is tricky for smokers to find a smoking area in Recife.

City Transport

Recife city offers different means of transportation - bus, train, shuttle, and taxi. Bus transportation is spread all over the city, and the long-distance bus terminal is known as the ‘Terminal Integrado de Passageiros’ (TIP). It is one of the leading and largest national nodes of transportation available in the city that runs interstate buses to many different destinations.

A line of urban transportation is also available in the city in AC minibuses that runs along Conselheiro Aguiar Avenue. Shuttles and the metro train covers the central and south areas of the city. Metro line is connected with bus lines, and with a single ticket, you can ride on both. Car rental services are available throughout the city.

Recife falls under a tropical climate zone, which experiences warm and hot temperatures all year round. Even during the winter season, bright and clear sunlight never allows temperatures to drop below 22°C (71.6°F). Though, to avoid heat strokes and intense sunlight, winter is the best time to visit. This city is situated near the equator, and therefore, it experiences very high temperatures and humidity during the summer season.

Best time to visit : June to February.

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What to do in Recife and how to live the concept “My Country Pernambuco!”

Hostelworld Blog | Posted on January 2, 2020 |

You can prepare your plate of couscous, order a warm caldinho to accompany your cold beer on the beach and try to learn the passinho. To experience Recife beyond the obvious, you’ll need to be very careful: it’s impossible not to fall in love with everything the capital of Pernambuco has to offer.

Everyone knows that Recife has an incredible Carnival, which takes place both in the capital and on the slopes of Olinda, as well as the beautiful Boa Viagem beach and a lot – a lot – of culture. But it’s in the details that the city finds new ways to win over travellers. It’s no wonder that the inhabitants of Recife will often say that their city is the best in the world. Recife is truly inviting and unique. The locals are even more enchanting. It’s possible to live unique experiences and get to know Recife beyond the tourist attractions, while spending very little.

Want to know more? Check out the tips below and get ready to live the “my country Pernambuco!” concept

Museums: Immerse yourself in Pernambuco’s identity

One of Recife’s strong points is the large number of museums, for all tastes. The good news for backpackers and low-cost travellers is that most of the museums have free admission on Tuesdays. To really get to know the identity of Recife and the entire state of Pernambuco, we suggest you visit the following museums:

Cais do Sertão

This interactive museum holds great emotions for those who want to learn more about the figure of the sertanejo and the career of accordion player Luiz Gonzaga, who was born in Exu, on the border between Pernambuco and Ceará. Filled with sensations, this tour is sure to stir your imagination. From the music of Luiz Gonzaga, who sang about the sertão in a unique way, all this scenery is brought to Recife Antigo, on the banks of the Capibaribe River. Many reflections emerge from the reality of the sertão, still so unknown to those who grew up outside the Northeast.

The museum has costumes and various interactive works, including installations with real testimonies from Pernambucans and lots of music. As well as being a space for events, at Cais do Sertão you can learn more about the geographical aspects of the Pernambuco hinterland, its characters and figures, among other contrasting characteristics of these scenarios that are so alive in Brazilian identity.

🏠 Address: Av. Alfredo Lisboa, s/n – Recife neighbourhood Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday, from 9am to 5pm. Saturday and Sunday from 1pm to 5pm admission: R$10 (full price) and R$5 (half price). Free on Tuesdays.

Paço do Frevo

Paço do Frevo is very close to the first museum on the list and complements this journey to learn more about Pernambuco’s culture. The main attraction at this museum is Frevo, the artistic expression that is the protagonist of Carnival. The place keeps the memory of its origin alive and is an invitation to all who wish to experience the rhythm, which is now recognised as a World Cultural Heritage Site by Unesco.

The museum has many photographs and a very detailed timeline so that everyone can learn about the origins and trajectory of Frevo. Every detail of the space is a reference to the unique energy present at Carnival and how thousands of people are taken by it. The walls and windows covered in excerpts about Frevo are one of the museum’s highlights, as well as, of course, the experiences on offer there, including Frevo classes and a mask-making workshop.

🏠 Address: Praça do Arsenal, s/n – Bairro do Recife opening hours: Tuesday to Friday, from 9am to 5pm. Saturday and Sunday from 2pm to 6pm. admission: R$10 (full price) and R$5 (half price). Free on Tuesdays and the first Sunday of the month.

Other museums worth visiting include MAMAM – Museu de Arte Moderna Aloísio Magalhães, Museu do Homem do Nordeste and Museu da Abolição.

Recife: Resistance and living cultural identity

To explore Recife is to allow yourself to get to know the resistance that exists in various places. If you’re looking for good options to get to know Recife’s music scene, for example, you can also learn more about local social movements and collectives. Closely related to the city’s cultural identity, spaces that offer activities outside the tourist circuit also bring great lessons. All the event suggestions below are free.

Armazém do Campo

Inaugurated in May 2019, Armazém do Campo, run by the Landless Rural Workers’ Movement (MST), sells organic products produced in the Movement’s settlements and also from family farmers. This is the first Armazém do Campo in the North and Northeast and more than 70 per cent of the produce is produced in the state of Pernambuco itself. As well as being a place to raise awareness of the importance of the MST in organic production and the revolutions that can arise through agroecology, the Armazém also organises weekly cultural events.

During the day, you can do your market in the shop or have lunch, check out book launches and dialogue circles. Later on, you can enjoy free intimate concerts with local musicians or even evenings of forró and samba. A cold beer or a shot of cachaça to go with it. Certainly a must-see for anyone visiting Recife.

🏠 Address: Rua do Imperador Pedro II and Av. Martins de Barros, 387 – Santo Antônio opening hours: Tuesdays and Wednesdays from 9am to 8pm. Thursdays and Fridays, 9am to midnight. Saturdays from 7am to 6pm and Sundays from 11am to 7pm.

Coco de Umbigada Cultural Centre

Coco de Beth, as many locals call it, actually takes place in Olinda. However, as many itineraries to Recife end up including the neighbouring city due to its proximity, it’s worth visiting the Coco de Umbigada Cultural Centre, run by Mãe Beth de Oxum, Ialorixá and master of coconut samba. This regional rhythm from the Northeast plays an important role in Pernambuco’s identity. Beth’s Coco is an event full of ancestry, with a lot of respect and homage to Afro religiosity and culture.

The event deserves attention because of all the social work that has been done at the Cultural Centre for over 10 years. In addition to the Sambada de Coco, which takes place every first Saturday of the month, the Centre is known for providing initiatives in the fields of education, technology, communication and art, with a focus on young people from the outskirts of Greater Recife. During the dance of sticking one navel to the other, it’s impossible not to be infected by the unique rhythm of the coconut and all the strength that the trajectory of Mother Beth de Oxum carries.

🏠 Address: Rua João de Lima, 42 – Beco da Macaíba – Guadalupe, Olinda when? Every first Saturday of the month, from 7pm.

Black Tuesday

The event, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2019, is organised by the Unified Black Movement (MNU) with the support of Recife City Hall. Every Tuesday, a rich programme focused on the culture and identity of the black population takes over the Pátio de São Pedro, in the central region of Recife.

Maracatu groups, samba, hip hop, reggae, coconut and afoxé artists occupy this public space, promoting a plural event full of popular expression. In addition, celebrations of African culture and themed events often complement the weekly programme, during the month of Black Consciousness and on Latin American and Caribbean Black Women’s Day, for example. Terça Negra is just one of the many symbols of the struggle of the black and anti-racist movement in the capital of Pernambuco.

🏠 Address: Pátio de São Pedro – Santo Antônio when? Every Tuesday from 7pm.

Speaking of music and culture, here’s another great option for you to discover during your stay in Recife:

Vinyl Tuesday

Another street event, Terça do Vinil gives people access to vinyl record culture with free parties full of Brazilian music, especially regional rhythms from Pernambuco and the Northeast. Although DJ 440, responsible for Terça do Vinil, is often present at other parties, such as Balbúrdia, running the event that occupies Recife’s public spaces on Tuesdays is by law.

The event currently takes place in the centre, but its first editions were held in Olinda and it has also been to the Boa Vista and Pina neighbourhoods. Terça do Vinil is the perfect option for those looking for a place to dance a lot and listen to good music with all the quality of vinyl.

🏠 Address: Torre Malakoff – Praça do Arsenal, s/n – Bairro do Recife when? Every Tuesday, from 18.30.

Explore Recife’s neighbourhoods like a local

Each neighbourhood in Recife has its own characteristics. Before arriving in the city, it’s common to hear the same tips about the same places, but there are attractions that are off the beaten track and can really appeal to backpackers.

Recife Antigo, also known as the Recife neighbourhood, is home to the museums listed in the post, the Malakoff Tower, the Francisco Brennand Sculpture Park and the famous Marco Zero. You can visit all these attractions in the same day. There, you can take a closer look at some of the historic buildings that are so characteristic of the city.

A must-see is Marco Zero, where you can watch a spectacular sunset. If you like, you can also take a boat across to the Francisco Brennand Sculpture Park, with 90 sculptures by Pernambuco artist Francisco Brennand. Access to the park is free and the crossing costs less than R$10.

At the Malakoff Tower, as well as enjoying Vinyl Tuesday, you can watch open maracatu rehearsals on Sundays from 5pm. On the same day, Recife Antigo is closed to cars and open to the public. Street markets with food and handicrafts, artistic interventions and people walking, cycling or rollerblading take over the streets of the neighbourhood, bringing a unique energy.

In the same neighbourhood, there is Espaço R.U.A, a corridor with lots of themed street art, perfect for taking photos.

Extra tip: Take advantage of the cycle lanes available on Sunday to explore the city by bike. The routes link Parque da Jaqueira, in the North Zone, and Parque Dona Lindu, in the South Zone, to Marco Zero. Cycling around Recife is a great way to save money and explore the city from a different perspective.

In the Recife neighbourhood, Rua da Moeda and its surroundings are the place to be at night, especially for those looking for affordable bars. In this area, the highlight is Som na Rural, an itinerant musical project by cultural producer Roger de Renor, in collaboration with various local artists.

Called by some “the best corner of the city”, this university neighbourhood, which is home to the Federal University of Pernambuco (UFPE), has a number of peculiarities. If you’re looking for more authentic experiences, Várzea is a great neighbourhood to explore. At times, not just there, but in various neighbourhoods in Recife, it’s easy to forget that you’re in a capital city.

One of the highlights of the neighbourhood are the events that take place in Rua da Feira, next to Várzea’s main square. In Recife, it’s also possible to take part in coconut samba and even try out a few steps. There, in addition to coconut, many other regional rhythms, affordable artisanal drinks and attractions organised by collectives and social movements take over the evenings. All this can be seen at República Independente da Várzea.

In addition, there are agroecological fairs, round tables, collective classes and joint efforts, among other initiatives by the Espaço Agroecológico da Várzea to integrate the local community.

Enjoy the Carnival rehearsals

If you’re planning to visit Recife from October onwards, you should take advantage of the Carnival rehearsals. You can find a lot of joy in the streets of the centre and play a little before the official days of revelry. This is a great opportunity to learn more about the street parades, with all the identity and traditional and cultural expressions present in the Carnival of Recife and Olinda. Boi Marinho, for example, has open rehearsals every Tuesday in Rua da Moeda. Each week, different artists contribute to the rehearsal, making the tour a unique experience. Don’t know what Boi Marinho is? It’s a street play that mixes elements of the boi play with those of the Cavalo Marinho, a folkloric expression typical of the Zona da Mata region of Pernambuco.

Other great places to visit in Recife: Jaqueira Park, the São Luiz street cinema, the Joaquim Nabuco Foundation cinemas, the Hermilo Borba Filho Theatre, among others.

Did you like these tips? Now, find out where to stay in Recife

Piratas da Praia Hostel

Once you’ve discovered how to experience Recife beyond the tourist attractions and get to know the city in depth like a true traveller, find out which hostels are the best to stay in:

Recife Antigo Hostel

Strategically located for those who want to explore the attractions of Recife Antigo, this hostel has a bar, restaurant and breakfast for an additional fee. The cleanliness, structure and ambience make this hostel stand out from the rest.

address: Rua da Guia, 117 – Recife Antigo

This renowned hostel is close to Boa Viagem beach and the airport. The atmosphere is incredible and the staff are constantly praised. It’s the best option for those who want to stay close to the beach and still save on accommodation.

🏠Address: Avenida Conselheiro Aguiar, 2034. Entrance from Rua Professor Osias Ribeiro – Ed. Barão de Camaçari, 3rd floor – Boa Viagem

A Ponte Hostel

In the Santo Amaro neighbourhood, this hostel is a good choice for those looking for savings and easy access to various regions. Shared rooms are available for R$55 in high season. Breakfast is included in the price and the hostel has pleasant living spaces and exceptional staff.

🏠Address: Rua Capitão Lima, 410 – Santo Amaro

📚 About the Author 📚

My name is Júlia Saraiva and I believe that much of life is about exchange and knowing how to see the subtleties. As a backpacker, I’m sure it was the road that taught me about awareness and showed me who I really am. I still want to write a lot about everything I experienced in the Northeast, but I’ll tell you a bit about it on Instagram (https://instagram.com/juliamsaraiva)

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Recife (‘heh-see-fee’), capital of Pernambuco, is one of the Northeast’s most exciting cities. It has a vibrant cultural, entertainment and restaurant scene, an intriguing historic center (Recife Antigo), an impressive coastal setting and a fabulous Carnaval. It's a sprawling, urban place of glassy high-rises, crowded commercial areas, thundering traffic and extensive suburbs; if you like your cities gutsy, gritty and proud, Recife is for you. It takes its name from the offshore recifes (reefs) that calm the waters of its ports and shoreline.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand

Francisco Brennand, born in 1927 into an Irish immigrant family and now considered Brazil’s greatest ceramicist, revitalized his family’s abandoned tile…

Paço do Frevo

This strikingly red museum is a small and modern house of worship for frevo, the quintessential dance of the Recife Carnaval that is easily identified by…

Museu Cais do Sertão

Inaugurated in 2014, this bold museum highlights the culture of the sertão (the interior of Pernambuco state), especially as it relates to the godfather…

Capela Dourada

Built between 1696 and 1724, this gem of Brazilian baroque, part of the Convento de Santo Antônio, owes its name to the huge quantities of gold (said to…

Concatedral de São Pedro dos Clérigos

The 18th-century baroque Concatedral de São Pedro dos Clérigos has been totally renovated and contains incredibly fine stonework and wood carvings…

Instituto Ricardo Brennand

This scenic museum in Várzea, 11km west of central Recife, contains a huge collection of European and Brazilian art, swords, armor and historical…

Pátio de São Pedro

This traffic-free square, lined with bars, restaurants and colorful 19th-century houses, is one of Santo Antônio's more peaceful spots and a good place to…

Praça do Arsenal

Surrounded by many elegant colonial buildings, this square is at the heart of Recife Antigo. Colorful Rua do Bom Jesus, to the south of the square, was…

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Recife travel guide

Recife tourism | recife guide, you're going to love recife.

Recife is the capital of the northeastern state of Pernambuco and a vibrant, bustling coastal city. Settled by the Dutch, it has a fascinating Old Town and a modern skyline of gleaming towers along the beach. It is a city surrounded by water, with many canals and rivers as well as the reef-calmed ocean.

Top 5 Reasons to Visit Recife

1. so many beaches.

Recife is famous for its beaches and, in Boa Viagem Beach, has one of the best urban beaches in the world.

2. The Churches

The city is renowned for its beautiful churches, including the Golden Chapel, with its extravagant decoration.

3. Explore the Museums

Recife has many interesting museums, including the Abolition Museum, which focuses on slavery, and the Military Museum.

4. Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue

The oldest synagogue in South America makes for a fascinating visit.

5. Scuba Diving

Recife is known for its shipwrecks and reefs, making for some great diving experiences.

What to do in Recife

1. instituto ricardo brennand: a plethora of 15th-21st century dutch antiquities.

The Instituto Ricardo Brennand is a non-profit cultural institution owned and operated by art enthusiast Ricardo Brennand. The institution consists of an art gallery, library, a museum and a park dedicated to 17th-century Dutch collections from the Dutch rule in Brazil. As you stroll the building, you'll be amazed by the Tudor-style castle design. Marvel at the beauty of the Melee and medieval weapons displayed in the Armory Museum. Peruse the extensive collection of paintings by Frans Post, the New World's first landscapist. As you venture the institute's library, you'll be left breathless as you scan the collection of rare books from the 16th-20th century, photographs, sheet music, and more.

2. Boa Viagem Beach: Recife's Most Popular Beach

Stretching a little over four miles is the must-see Boa Viagem beach. Take a stroll alongside the natural reefs that the beach was named after. Marvel at the natural pools that form around the shoreline when the low tides come in. While soaking in the sun, stop by a barraca (vendor stand) and grab a cold drink. As you approach Praca de Boa Viagem, you'll find stunning homes, hotels, restaurants, and businesses within walking distance of the sand strip. Or simply lay down on the sand and enjoy the sun's warmth.

3. Oficina Ceramica Francisco Brennand: Meet the Sculptor Behind the Art

Located in Várzea, this castle-like structure is enclosed by the Atlantic Forest. Take a stroll inside the building and marvel at the ceramic shops of sculptor Francisco Brennand. Inside, you'll find a plethora of European and Brazilian art, armor, swords, and artifacts. Among Brennand's own creative masterpieces are tiles and anatomical female sculptures on display. Brennand himself is even known to pose with tourists for photos.

4. Capela Dourada: The Golden Chapel

Visit the Capela Dourada (The Golden Chapel) and admire the architecture dedicated to the Franciscan Order. Built in 1697, the chapel's arches represent Luis Mercado's majestic creations. Marvel at Antonio Martins Santiago's lateral niches dedicated to Saint Cosme and San Damiano. As you walk alongside the altars, you'll be mesmerized by the collection of tiles grouped together on the walls. The presentation of the virtues Hope, Charity, and Faith are spectacular, and the statues of Santa Isabel and Senhor dos Passos will leave you breathless. As you stroll the aisles, peruse the painted panels dedicated to the saints.

5. Mirabilandia Park: Brazil's Third-Largest Park

Take a family adventure in this thematic amusement park. Stroll over to the Tio Pas Pedras and discover the small waterfall and spring display surrounded by gardens. This addition to the park is meant to bring ecological awareness to the public. Slide down a snowy mountain when you ride the Matterhorn. If you love haunted houses, then the Mansion of Terror is for you. You'll set out on a mystery quest and meet the frightening creatures that live in the scary, dark mansion.

Activities & attractions in Recife

Where to Eat in Recife

Chica Pitanga on Rua Petrolina serves good regional food priced by weight, while Assucar on Rua da Alfândega serves classic northeastern Brazil dishes. Expect to pay around R$20 in a budget restaurant and R$80 for a main in Assucar.

When to visit Recife

Recife has a tropical climate, with an average temperature of 78 degrees, which changes little throughout the year. The dry season is September-March, which may be most comfortable for a visit.

How to Get to Recife

Guararapes-Gilberto Freyre International Airport serves the city with flights to Europe, North America, South America, and many Brazilian cities. You can get to the city by subway or bus, and a taxi will cost R$10.

Recife is well connected to the national road network, with the BR-101 running north to south and the BR-232 running east to west.

Long distance buses arrive at Terminal Integrado de Passageiros Antônio Farias. Fares from Fortaleza are from R$120 and R$42 from Natal.

Airports near Recife

Airlines serving recife, where to stay in recife.

Albergue Maracatus do Recife offers budget dorm rooms right beside the beach. The Internacional Palace Hotel offers luxury rooms with a beach view.

Popular Neighborhoods in Recife

Recife Antigo - this is the old town and has some beautiful buildings and is home to the port area.

Boa Viagem - this is the spectacular beachfront area and is known as the Copacabana of northeast Brazil.

Olinda - Olinda is a beautiful beach town just four miles from the city center and has been made a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its 16th and 17th-century buildings.

Where to stay in popular areas of Recife

Most booked hotels in recife, how to get around recife, public transportation.

Recife has an extensive bus network and a subway system. Single tickets cost from R$1.60.

Recife has plenty of taxis, with starting fares set at R$4.75 and then R$3.50 per mile.

The roads in Recife are well made but with lots of bridges and islands, the network can be a little confusing to navigate. Car rental is from R$60, and you'll find Avis and Hertz in town.

The Cost of Living in Recife

Shopping streets.

Casa da Cultura on Rue Floriano Peixoto is a mall in a converted prison selling local arts and crafts. Paço Alfândega on Rua da Alfândega is a modern mall selling fashion and electronics.

Groceries and Other

A quart of milk in Recife will cost R$3.83 and a dozen eggs are R$7.40.

TRAVEL BLOG

Beach and Brennand: Farewell Recife!

The Editor may be safely back in Europe, but his summer adventures in Brazil continue right here on UTB. After partying hard for eight days during Carnaval, is it finally time for him to experience some culture? After lying in bed for 24 hours after Carnaval there was only one…

Waking Up To Brazil’s Best Carnaval

After weeks of pre-parties and anticipation, the Editor finally gets to experience the real Carnival in Brazil. However it seems his beloved sleep is not on the agenda… “A-CORDA, A-CORDA, A-CORDA!!!!” I am fast asleep in my hammock, in the imagined safety of a family home in Olinda’s old town,…

Recife: City of Skyscrapers and Sorcery

Having mastered Portuguese and explored Rio in full, The Editor gets on a jet plane and heads North East to the region of Pernambuco for one of Brazil’s best carnivals… I touched down in Recife on a hugely expensive internal flight from Rio de Janeiro, three days before Carnaval proper…

Bring On Brazil!

Enjoy the rest of the winter suckers readers, I’m off to Brazil! And I’m unrepentently smug about it. It’s been a long time coming after all… It was back in 2001 that I and two fellow swashbuckling musketeers, after grinding away in the office for a couple of depressing post-Uni…

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