sanaa yemen tourist attractions

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Yemen: Things to See and Do in Sana’a (Tourist Attractions)

Let’s travel to the western part of the country and to the capital city of Yemen, known as Sana’a. In 1962 it became the capital of North Yemen and was followed by North and South Yemen in 1990. The population is 1,740,000 and being the religious center of the Yemen Highlands, it has also been the chief economic political center for many centuries.

Connected to the Red Sea port of Hodeida by road, the city lies inland on a high plain. Sana is an Islamic cultural center with a Muslim university along with other institutions of learning with lots of mosques. It has been settled from pre-Islamic times the ancient city wall remains.

Here are some of the highlights of this trip that I wanted to share with you so you could decide on what you would want to do.

1. Beaches:

Go to some of the best beaches in Yemen such as Lover’s Beach in Aden City, Bir Ali in Mukalla City, Archer beach in Socotra Island, Shouab Beach in Socotra Island, Aomak beach in Socotra island, and Qalansiya beach in Socotra island.

2. Old City:

Walk Around the old city of Sana’a in the early morning – Start your day by hearing plenty of blessings as the locals start their day by heading to the market and opening their shops early in the morning.

Enjoy some traditional Yemeni Chai – Don’t leave the city without trying some of the Yemeni tea. If you try Chai Haleb (Tea with milk) or Chai Ahmar (Tea) and ask for Haleb Mofawer but if you like your tea plain without milk then you should try Chai na’naa which is tea with mint.

4. Old Sana’a from the Top:

You can go to the roof of one of the old buildings to really get a good view of Sana. To go inside one of them you need to go to the roof of Burj Alsalam hotel that has a beautiful view of the city with a café.

5. Hamm Sana’ani (Sauna):

One of the best options to relax is going to the Hamams (sauna) in Sana. You know you like to relax when you are on vacation. The Hamams are booked for the women in the morning and the men in the evening. Usually it is meant for men only.

6. Traditional Food:

You will have to have a strong stomach to eat the local food in Sana. If you don’t like spices you should tell them, otherwise they will use lots of them. The meaning for without spices is “Bedun Beshas”.

7. Attend a Wedding:

Doesn’t matter whether you know the bride and groom or not. Thursday in Yemen is believed to be a blessed day so the weddings are usually on Thursday. You don’t have to have an invitation you are welcome to go just because you are you. The locals love guests.

Categories Guides Middle East

I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list. I am Bert Megert. I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list. I am Bert Megert. I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list. I am Bert Megert.

Sana'a

• 1.1 Climate
• 2.1 By plane
• 3 Get around
• 9.2 Mid-range
• 9.3 Splurge
• 11.1 Budget
• 11.2 Mid-range
• 11.3 Splurge
• 13 Stay safe
• 14.1 Embassies

Sana'a is the capital of Yemen , located in the Yemeni Mountains and generally the first destination for travellers to that country. See the Stay Safe section of this article and the Yemen country page for important safety advice.

Understand [ edit ]

One of the oldest continuously-inhabited cities in the world (others being Jericho , Damascus and Aleppo ), Sana'a is traditionally said to have been founded by Shem, the son of Noah. As a result, the city has the unlikely nickname of "Sam City".

Sana'a will start surprising you the moment you arrive at the airport. All the policemen and the civilians wear jambiya , the unique Yemeni dagger. Even small children wear little daggers. Many people have swollen cheeks because of chewing qat leaves. Outside the airport, all buildings look the same because of uniformly painted windows and walls.

Climate [ edit ]

The city experiences a mild desert climate, with much more moderate temperatures than other Arabian Peninsula cities due to its high elevation.

Get in [ edit ]

By plane [ edit ].

Sana'a International Airport is the city's international airport. As of November 2023, there are daily commercial flights between Amman and Sana’a operated by Yemenia, the country’s national carrier.

By bus [ edit ]

Yemen has a few bus companies. Sana'a is connected by all major cities ( Aden , Ta'izz , Marib , Sayun , etc.) via bus. Perhaps the best bus company in Yemen is the new-ish Raha (established in 2008). Raha buses are in good condition and fares are reasonable. The buses are still new. Note a travel permit (tasirih in Arabic) needs to be obtained from the Ministry of Tourism before embarking on over-land adventures. Each town has a military checkpoint that will ask for a travel permit and will likely refuse people entry if they have forgotten to get one. Travel permits are issued free of charge. When applying, visitors should bring their passport, a list of places they are going to visit, and the time period for travel. Visitors should have photocopies of their travel permit as each checkpoint may ask for a copy, and they should also have copies of the biographical information page (that contains their photo) of their passport handy. Often foreign passengers give a pile of travel permit copies to the bus driver so that he can provide them to officials at checkpoints. Visitors should let the bus driver or military personnel know of their nationality as they need to know. Note that there are also many traffic police checkpoints. They are not interested in your permit; only those with green uniforms and big guns are.

Get around [ edit ]

Sana'a is a big city which, in common with many other developing-world capitals, is spreading in all directions at once. Visitors will almost certainly have to use taxis or hired cars to get around, as the street maps often leave much to be desired.

There are many "Dabaabs" or mini vans that go on different routes around the city. They serve as public buses and are quite cheap. They have fixed routes and cost 15-30 riyals/ride.

Taxis to the airport from the centre should cost 1000 rials (August 2008). Be prepared to bargain with your taxi driver for a reasonable fare. Usually fares can be reduced by a third of the price after a bit of haggling.

Cars are used a lot but they are mostly 4x4s or pick up trucks. Drivers tend to use the horn excessively which is normal in this beautiful congested city.

See [ edit ]

The Old City of Sana'a is World Heritage Listed and makes a great place to see the uniquely Yemeni style of architecture - multiple-storey tower houses with the distinctive qamariya windows. Within the Old City is the Souk al-Milh, arguably the best souk (marketplace) in the Arabian Peninsula.

Do [ edit ]

Sana'a is a great place for people-watching and culture observing. The unhurried pace of Yemeni life, coupled with the almost total lack of industrialisation seen in nearby countries, means that it's quite possible to sit in a coffee shop and watch the world go by for hours on end.

If you want an experience you can only get in Yemen (and are prepared to risk your health): participate in a qat session. Qat (khat) is a mild narcotic chewed by most males in Yemen. They spend their afternoons hanging out, chewing the leaf, and conversing. A bag will cost no more than 5 US dollars, and you can get "inferior" product for less. Side effects are lack of appetite and insomnia. Qat is considered by many as the prime cause of Yemen ranking as the poorest country in the Middle East. Note that Qat is a controlled substance in many other countries, and those trying to bring it into such countries risk arrest.

Learn [ edit ]

Yemen is an excellent place to study Arabic for several reasons: 1. Languages other than Arabic are much less commonly spoken than they are in nearby countries; 2. The low cost of living; and 3. There are several excellent Arabic language institutes that offer both group and private courses with flexible schedules and reasonable prices.

The 15.33566 44.18957 1 Yemen College of Middle Eastern Studies (YCMES) offers courses in Arabic language as well as academic seminars in English language about the contemporary Middle East. With over 20 years of experience, YCMES is the first and only accredited programme n Yemen (i.e. students can transfer credit to their home universities). Regular tuition packages include accommodation, meals, excursions, cultural activities, wireless internet, library, etc. The YCMES can also help with international and domestic travel arrangements.

Other options are Sana'a Institute of the Arabic Language (SIAL) , Center for Arabic Language Studies (CALES) , and 15.34373 44.16852 2 Saba Institute for the Arabic Language , all of which are located in the Old City.

Additionally, Yemen Institute for Arabic Language (YIAL) a teacher owned institute that offers similar courses outside the Old City, although it also has very good accommodations in the Old City and in the institute itself. YIAL primarily offers private courses. YIAL also organises activities and trips.

Work [ edit ]

Unless you have work lined up as an expat, work in Sana'a (and elsewhere in Yemen) will be very hard to come by. The majority of the locals sitting by the road will be waiting to be hired as manual labourers or domestic staff, in the latter role competing with guest workers from across the Red Sea. Those with good abilities in Arabic may be able to find work teaching English, however this will be informal and exceptionally temporary work. Schools such as AMIDEAST, MALI, and YALI hire English teachers, but you will likely need a bachelor's degree and some sort of teaching certification.

Buy [ edit ]

Almost everywhere you look, you will have the chance to buy the curved dagger (jambiya) worn by local men. This purchase can be simply of the dagger and its accompanying sheath, however handmade belts and silver pouches are also for sale, with many tourists opting to purchase each item separately. When purchasing a jambiya, remember first and foremost that it counts as a weapon for customs purposes, even though it is not used as one anymore. Secondly, the sheath is predominantly leather with either a base metal or (in more expensive models) silver decoration. Traditionally, handles were made of animal horn or ivory. It is doubtful that the handles sold today as being made from either of these products are genuine, and so a wooden or amber handle may be a better option. If a real jambiya costs too much, there are also pendants and brooches commonly available in the shape of the knife and its sheath.

Necklaces and jewellery are also common souvenirs, and many of these will be made of the semi-precious stones the souvenir sellers claim. Nevertheless, a healthy grain of salt should be added to any belief that one is actually purchasing a necklace of lapis lazuli or anything like that.

Bargaining is expected and worthwhile. If you are with local guides, a common approach is to have them ask for the "Yemeni price", however any bargaining on the part of the tourist will result in discounts. Bear in mind that what may seem an absurdly cheap price for an item in Western terms will still be a great return for many locals.

Yemen's currency, the rial (riyal), is subject to high inflation. As a result, many prices (particularly those quoted to white-skinned visitors) will be given in US dollars or euros. Any of these three currencies will be accepted by the seller, so ask for the price in whichever currency is preferred.

Eat [ edit ]

Visitors should be careful when eating from street stands as the same warning which applies to tap water applies to poorly-prepared food. Salta is a popular Yemeni lunch dish that is served very hot.

Budget [ edit ]

Nearly all Yemeni food is budget. An average meal at a Sana'a restaurant will cost less than US$2. Chicken is ubiquitous. A tuna steak served with rice costs 150-200 riyals.

• 15.34996 44.20673 1 Al Shamiri Plaza hotel ( next to Central Bank of Yemen on Ali Abdull Mugni St. ). Has a rooftop restaurant on 8th floor which offers great views over old and new part of Sanaa. Menu is also in English and prices are reasonable. ( updated May 2023 )

Mid-range [ edit ]

Hadda Street is where the more "upscale" restaurants are located. Clean restaurants with a large range of food include:

• 45.5411 -122.6618 2 Merkato Ethiopian Food ( Across from Al-Hudda grocery ). ( updated May 2023 )
• 14.965833 43.946111 3 Al-Hamra . Popular fast food place. ( updated May 2023 )
• 15.29648 44.18428 4 Pizza Hut , Sabeen Street . ( updated May 2023 )
• 15.32727 44.20091 5 KFC , Hadda Road . ( updated May 2023 )

Splurge [ edit ]

The five star 15.36199 44.23213 6 Mövenpick hotel have decent, but pricey western food (and beer).

Drink [ edit ]

As in the rest of the country, the tap water should be avoided at all costs . Bottled water, both chilled and at room temperature, is readily available and very cheap - as is the normal range of fruit juices and soft drinks.

Near the Shumaila Hari Supermarket you will find the 15.3275 44.19849 1 Coffee Trader , a place where you can get an excellent latte or cappuccino at Starbuck's prices and eat a piece of carrot cake while checking your e-mail on their Wi-Fi hotspot.

Sleep [ edit ]

Good option to stay is new part of Sana'a. It's walking distance to Old part of town but hotels offer better value to money. Around Tahrir area there are about 10 hotels to choose, ranging from five star Taj Sheba hotel to no-star hotels. recommended are 2 Wadi Hadramout hotels. More expensive Wadi Hadramout hotel is cross the main road from Tahrir Square, other more economical is near Taj Sheba hotel at Ali Abdulmogny Street. There double room with bathroom and TV costs about 2000 rials. Staff are very helpful and friendly and some speak English.

• 15.355713 44.209821 1 Arabia Felix Hotel . The in Old Sana'a is a cheap way to get a feel for the old city. Rooms are basic but the charm is in staying in an authentic old Yemeni town house. Breakfast and the courtyard garden are excellent. US$25 for a double room. Other hotels in the old town include the Daoud (David) and the Talha. All three hotels offer excellent views over the old town. ( updated May 2020 )
• 15.356553 44.213565 2 Burj Al Salam Hotel , ☏ +967 1 483333 . In the old part of the city. Traditionally styled building with reasonable facilities. Excellent view of the city from the roof top restaurant. Wi-Fi. It can be noisy because it is next to two mosques. ( updated May 2020 )
• 15.29942 44.23757 3 Sam City Hotel ( In the old city ), [email protected] . Staff make an effort to look after you and a great deal. USD25-35 .  
• 15.34921 44.2059 4 Sheba Hotel , Ali Abdolmoghni St , ☏ +967 1 272 372 . Pool and restaurant.  
• 15.3625 44.23237 5 Mövenpick Hotel Sanaa , Berlin St , ☏ +967 154 66 66 , [email protected] . Large hotel with pool outside the city centre. Great view and probably one of the safest hotels in Sanaa. ( updated May 2020 )

Connect [ edit ]

Stay safe [ edit ].

See the warning on the Yemen article for information on the security situation.

Visitors should take care particularly in the Old City as the streets are poorly signposted and the unwary may find themselves in someone's courtyard.

Maps of Yemen tend to have details of the city, but (as with road maps in the country) they are unreliable. If at all possible, visitors should use a local guide.

Gun carrying is normal as many men hold or have a gun for traditional reasons. One should not be alarmed at the sight of a gun, even a Kalashnikov.

Cope [ edit ]

Embassies [ edit ].

The United States embassy has suspended consular services; contact the embassy in Cairo instead. The United Kingdom [dead link] embassy has also suspended its services.

Go next [ edit ]

• The awe-inspiring Dar Al-Hajr (often known as the Rock Palace) is located in Wadi Dahr roughly 30 minutes from the city centre and makes a very easy afternoon's excursion. You will be able to take one of the local taxis.
• A full day excursion can take you to Thulla, Kawkaban and Shibam (not the Hadramout version but the Amran version) which is approximately 55 km from the outskirts of Sana'a. It is possible to stay overnight in Kawkaban, although there are only two hotels (more like full-board guest-houses as there are no restaurants). Accommodation and meals cost about €7.

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• Description

Situated in a mountain valley at an altitude of 2,200 m, Sana’a has been inhabited for more than 2,500 years. In the 7th and 8th centuries the city became a major centre for the propagation of Islam. This religious and political heritage can be seen in the 103 mosques, 14 hammams and over 6,000 houses, all built before the 11th century. Sana’a’s many-storeyed tower-houses built of rammed earth ( pisé ) add to the beauty of the site.

Description is available under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0

Vieille ville de Sana'a

Édifiée dans une vallée de montagne à 2 200 m d’altitude, Sana’a a été habitée depuis plus de 2 500 ans. Aux VIIe et VIIIe siècles, la ville est devenue un important centre de propagation de l’islam. On retrouve ce patrimoine religieux et politique dans ses 106 mosquées, ses 12 hammams et ses 6 500 maisons qui datent tous d’avant le XIe siècle. Les maisons-tours aux nombreux étages et les maisons de pisé anciennes ajoutent encore à la beauté du site.

مدينة صنعاء القديمة

بنيت صنعاء في واد جبلي يرتفع الى 2200 متر وأصبحت مأهولة بالسكان منذ أكثر من 2500 سنة. وتحولت المدينة في القرنين السابع والثامن الى مركز هام لنشر الإسلام، فحافظت على تراث ديني وسياسي يتجلى في 106 مساجد و21 حماماً و6500 منزل تعود الى ما قبل القرن الحادي عشر. أما المساكن البرجية المتعددة الطبقات ومنازل الآجر القديمة فتزيد الموقع جمالاً.

source: UNESCO/CPE Description is available under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0

萨那坐落于海拔2200米的山谷里，人类在那里的居住历史已超过2500年。在公元7世纪和8世纪期间，此城成为伊斯兰教的主要传播中心。其中的政治和文化遗产包括103座清真寺、14座哈玛姆寺和6000间会所，全部建于11世纪前。萨那城的多层塔楼为景点增添了美丽。

Ciudad vieja de Sana’a

Edificada en un valle situado a 2.200 metros de altura sobre el nivel del mar, la ciudad de Sana’a tiene más de 2.500 años de historia. En los siglos VII y VIII fue un importante centro de propagación de la religión islámica. El legado de su esplendoroso pasado político y religioso lo atestiguan sus 103 mezquitas, 14 casas de baños públicos (hammam) y 6.000 viviendas construidas con anterioridad al siglo XI. Las casas-torre de múltiples pisos, edificadas con tierra apisonada, contribuyen a realzar la belleza del sitio.

source: NFUAJ

Oude stad van Sana’a

Sana’a wordt al meer dan 2.500 jaar bewoond. De oude stad ligt in een bergdal op een hoogte van 2.200 meter. In de 7e en 8e eeuw werd de stad een belangrijk centrum voor de verspreiding van de islam. Dit religieuze en politieke erfgoed komt tot uiting in de 103 moskeeën, 14 hammams en meer dan 6.000 huizen, die allemaal zijn gebouwd vóór de 11e eeuw. De gebouwen tonen een uitzonderlijk vakmanschap met betrekking tot het gebruik van lokale materialen en technieken. De huizen en openbare gebouwen van Sana’a zijn een goed voorbeeld van traditionele islamitische bewoning.

Source: unesco.nl

Outstanding Universal Value

Brief synthesis

Situated in a mountain valley at an altitude of 2,200 m, the Old City of Sana'a is defined by an extraordinary density of rammed earth and burnt brick towers rising several stories above stone-built ground floors, strikingly decorated with geometric patterns of fired bricks and white gypsum. The ochre of the buildings blends into the bistre-colored earth of the nearby mountains. Within the city, minarets pierce the skyline and spacious green bustans (gardens) are scattered between the densely packed houses, mosques, bath buildings and caravanserais.

Inhabited for more than 2,500 years, the city was given official status in the second century BC when it was an outpost of the Yemenite kingdoms. By the first century AD it emerged as a centre of the inland trade route. The site of the cathedral and the martyrium constructed during the period of Abyssinian domination (525-75) bear witness to Christian influence whose apogee coincided with the reign of Justinian. The remains of the pre-Islamic period were largely destroyed as a result of profound changes in the city from the 7th century onwards when Sana'a became a major centre for the spread of the Islamic faith as demonstrated by the archaeological remains within the Great Mosque, said to have been constructed while the Prophet was still living. Successive reconstructions of Sana'a under Ottoman domination beginning in the 16th century respected the organization of space characteristic of the early centuries of Islam while changing the appearance of the city and expanding it with a second city to the west. The houses in the old city are of relatively recent construction and have a traditional structure.

As an outstanding example of a homogeneous architectural ensemble reflecting the spatial characteristics of the early years of Islam, the city in its landscape has an extraordinary artistic and pictorial quality. Its many-storied buildings represent an outstanding response to defensive needs in providing spacious living quarters for the maximum number of residents within defensible city walls. The buildings demonstrate exceptional craftsmanship in the use of local materials and techniques. The houses and public buildings of Sana'a, which have become vulnerable as a result of contemporary social changes, are an outstanding example of a traditional, Islamic human settlement.

Described by historians, geographers and scholars of the early Islamic and medieval eras, Sana'a is associated with the civilizations of the Bible and the Koran.

Criterion (iv): Within its partially preserved wall, it offers an outstanding example of a homogeneous architectural ensemble, which design and detail translate an organization of space characteristic of the early centuries of Islam which has been respected over time.

Criterion (v): The houses of Sana'a, which have become vulnerable as a result of contemporary social changes, are an outstanding example of an extraordinary masterpiece, traditional human settlement.

Criterion (vi): Sana'a is directly and tangibly associated with the history of the spread of Islam in the early years of the Hegira. The Great mosque of Sana'a, built in year 6 of Hegira, is known as the first mosque built outside Mecca and Medina.The Old City of Sana'a has contributed to and played a major role in Yemeni, Arab and Islamic World history through the contributions of historical Yemeni figures including Al Hassan B. Ahmed Al Hamdany, Ahamed Al Razy and Al Shawkany.

Integrity (2011)

A significant proportion of all the attributes that express the Outstanding Universal Value are within the property. However, in certain quarters of the city, acceleration of new development is eroding its character. The visual integrity of the property is threatened by an increase in new modern hotels and telecommunication towers in the surrounding landscape.

The disappearance of the traditional juridical system or the application of new and supplementary ones, the accelerated social and economical changes, the rapid urban development within and around the city and the disappearance of open space as the bustans are gradually built over, are creating various unbearable pressures on the city and its inhabitants.

Authenticity (2011)

The attributes that carry Outstanding Universal Value are the overall design of the city and its buildings with their decorated façades, traditional building materials, and the open spaces (bustans, maqashe and sarah'at ) considered as part of the city's urban environment, together with the visual appearance of the city surrounded by mountains. The authenticity of these attributes is vulnerable to incorrect conservation practices and development. Associated intangible values relating to traditional socio-economic activities, including the very high percentage of home ownership, continue to be demonstrated. 

Protection and management requirements (2011)

The protection of the Old City of Sana'a is ensured by the Antiquities Law of 1997 as well as the Building Law of 2002. Protection will be improved when the Historical Cities Preservation Law comes into force. The preparation of a Conservation Plan, and of an exhaustive inventory of buildings of the city and its surroundings have been completed. The General Organization for the Preservation of the Historic Cities of Yemen (GOPHCY) aims to develop the Conservation Plan in the next few years. It is also proposed to establish a Conservation Unit to involve all stakeholders, who will be encouraged to participate in the preparation of the city Management Plan process. GOPHCY, established in 1990, is an independent body set up to create an appropriate strategy for sustainable development. After the new Law enters into force, it will become the overall authority for management of the World Heritage property.

In its decision concerning inscription, the World Heritage Committee "recommended that an adequate buffer zone should be established around the old city." This recommendation should be implemented in order to improve the protection of the property which also needs clearly defined boundaries.

In the long term, it is intended to adopt a clear strategy for sustainable preservation and development of the Old City and to reach a better control of the setting as well as ensuring the balance between commercial and residential activities.

List of World Heritage in Danger

Inscription Year on the List of World Heritage in Danger

State of Conservation (SOC)

Protections by other conservation instruments.

1 protection / 2 elements

• Arts, skills and practices associated with engraving on metals (gold, silver and copper)
• Song of Sana’a

Read more about synergies

Best things to do in Sanaa

Find out more about those top places in Sanaa

The beautiful but chaotic Sanaa is the capital and largest city in Yemen; with over 4 million people it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the World.

You would be forgiven if Sanaa is not part of your itinerary, seeing as the city and country has been experiencing civil unrest for some years. But looking beyond that, the city of Sanaa presents some attractions that would catch the eye of most visitors - such attractions include the stunning Dajar al –Hajar, and the Bab Al –Yaman.

Bab Al - Yaman

One of Sanaa main attractions is the Bab Al - Yaman, it is the only surviving gate of seven ancient gates used to access the Sanaa Old City. Bab Al – Yaman which when translated means “Gate of Yemen” was built in the 19 th century by the Turks as part of the old fortified wall of the city – the gates are held by two pairs of columns which supports the bridge that connects the old wall. Passing through the gates and into the city will welcome you to life in ancient Sanaa with its architectural structures made of Baked bricks and decorated windows. The Bab Al - Yaman is on UNESCO World heritage list.

Located in the western part of Sanaa is a Jewish settlement atop a hill – the settlement founded during the Sabacan Kingdom by the Bawsites. The historical settlement is somewhat surprising but shows and represents the diverse cultural origins of Sanaa, its main attractions include an old castle, a fort, a synagogue and several Jewish houses. Visitors are always welcomed and it requires no fee.

Dar al - Hajar

Popularly referred to as the “Stone Palace” the Dar al – Hajar is easily Yemen’s most famous building. Situated in Wadi Dhar, the palace was built in the 1920s as a summer retreat of Yemeni leader Muhammad Hamid ed-Din who rule the nation from 1904 to 1948. The entire palace sits on a former building built by al-Imam Mansour in 1786. Presently a museum, visitors can be allowed to tour the building for a fee – the tour involves seeing the kitchen, appointment room and living rooms.

Al Saleh Mosque

Recognized as Yemen’s biggest mosque, the Al Saleh Mosque is one the most visited mosques in the country. Situated within Al-Sabeen square, the mosque has a design that can be described as a mix of both Islamic and Yemeni architectural styles matched up with a Himyarite layout. The 44,000 capacity mosque has five domes and 6 minarets with the highest at a height of 330 ft (100.58 m). Its name was recently changed to “The People’s mosque” after the death of former president Ali Abdullah Saleh.

National Museum of Yemen

Situated in Dar Al - Sada (Palace of Happiness), the national Museum contains over 30 thousand antiquity pieces of Yemeni history. It was established by the nation’s government to preserve Yemen’s heritage and educate both locals and foreigner who seek to learn about Yemen. Its main attractions include artifacts of a Yemini Imam and several items from ancient kingdoms of Yemen.

Best places to stay in Sanaa

Yemen tours featuring Sanaa

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THE 5 BEST Sanaa Sights & Landmarks

Sanaa landmarks.

• Sacred & Religious Sites
• Points of Interest & Landmarks
• Historic Sites
• Ancient Ruins
• Neighbourhoods
• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Big Groups
• Good for Kids
• Adventurous
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Hidden Gems
• Good for Couples
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Old City of Sanaa

2. Dar al-Hajar

3. Bab al-Yemen

4. Al Saleh Mosque

5. Great Mosque of Sana'a

6. Al-Khair Mosque

7. queen arwa mosque, what travellers are saying.

• Old City of Sanaa
• Bab al-Yemen
• Dar al-Hajar
• Al Saleh Mosque
• Great Mosque of Sana'a

Watch The Wanderer

Essential sanaa.

Top Things to Do in Sanaa - Sanaa Must-See Attractions

Things to do in sanaa.

• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Big Groups
• Good for Kids
• Adventurous
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Hidden Gems
• Good for Couples
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Old City of Sanaa

2. Dar al-Hajar

3. Bab al-Yemen

4. Al Saleh Mosque

5. Great Mosque of Sana'a

6. Al-Khair Mosque

7. queen arwa mosque.

8. Souk Al-Milh

9. Weider Gym

10. Radfan Tours Agency

11. Opatrip.com Yemen

What travelers are saying.

• Old City of Sanaa
• Bab al-Yemen
• Dar al-Hajar
• Al Saleh Mosque
• Great Mosque of Sana'a

World Heritage Site

For world heritage travellers.

The Old City of Sana'a is renowned for the unique skyline of a densely packed ensemble of multi-storey traditional houses and minarets.

Surrounded by ancient clay walls, the old city boasts over 100 mosques, 12 hammams, and 6,500 houses. Many of the houses reach several stories high and are decorated with geometric patterns, elaborate friezes, intricately carved frames and stained glass windows. Sana’a is also connected to the spread of Islam in its early years - the majestic seventh-century Jami' al-Kabir (Great Mosque) is known as the first mosque built outside Mecca and Medina.

Community Perspective : As a site that has been off-limits for a decade, the only review so far stems from Solivagant who characterizes it as “a city to wander round without a map”.

Map of Sana'a

Community reviews.

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4.00 UK - 01-May-05 -

San’a is a city to wander round without a map and without any particular objectives other than soaking up the atmosphere. “Dive in” at the Bab Al-Yaman and just see where serendipity takes you. Oh, and have plenty of digital cards or film! Because of the narrowness of the alleyways and the height of the buildings it is worth going at different times of day in order to benefit from different positions of the sun. Some buildings will let you in and the views from the top over the city are worthwhile if you can find them/ obtain invitations. You will also get a feel for the enclosed gardens which dot the city but are largely invisible from the outside other than a few palm branches peeping over the walls!

Community Rating

16 Votes 4.380 Average 4.2 Score

• 5.0 : Szucs Tamas Stanislaw Warwas Truls Brekke Krijn SaoDies Riomussafer Harry Mitsidis Hanming Roland
• 4.5 : Thomas Buechler Adrian Turtschi
• 4.0 : Solivagant
• 3.5 : Roger Ourset MaxHeAnouBen Ammon Watkins
• 1.5 : Bergecn

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Yemen Tourism

In the News

Houthis plan to demolish Old Sanaa’s bazaars for religious site (2023.03.21)

Historic buildings collapse in Sanaa after heavy rains (2022.08.13)

Historic houses in Sanaa's Old City on brink of collapse after heavy rains (2020.08.17)

Saudi raids destroy Yemen World Heritage sites (2020.05.06)

UNESCO expresses concern while monitoring flash floods in the Old City of Sana’a (2020.04.22)

Ninth-century mosque destroyed by airstrike in Yemen (2016.09.08)

'Air strike' kills five in historic district of Sana'a (2015.06.12)

UNESCO condemns 'severe' bombing damage to Sanaa old town (2015.05.13)

Sana'a's Old City: Prospects grim for cultural preservation (2015.01.09)

Historic homes in Old Sana'a crumble (2008.04.01)

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Essential Sanaa

A Traveler in Sana’a, Yemen – Sana’a Guide

Sana’a, Yemen

Nowhere has ever captured old Arabia like Sana’a. The smell of spices and meat cooking over charcoal in the old city souq, the enchanting melody of the call to prayer encompasses you as it rings out in every direction, locals prefer to wear turbans and the abiyah compared to western fashion. Sana’a will with no doubt take you to that Lawrence of Arabia dream you fantasize about. A city with such deep historical significance retains all its character despite the current circumstances. Now it’s not uncommon to hear airstrikes alongside the call to prayer, locals swapping their traditional outfits for military gear, and the entire city cut off from electricity and water; but politics and war aside, Sana’a still retains its charming self, a true authentic traveler’s paradise.

Should I Travel to Yemen?

This is a question I get asked often. Is Yemen Safe? Can I travel to Sana’a right now? The answer is probably not one you want to hear, but to put a positive spin on Yemen’s current safety I will answer this with, Yemen is not ready for tourism, at the moment but in time Yemen will be ready. I encourage you to just wait for the right time. Kidnappings, airstrikes, and full-blown war is the reality of Yemen, but all of the historical sights and the hearts of the people are preserved. Yemen is just on hold, and when the time comes Yemen will take hold of its fabulous travel potential.

Sana’a Travel Guide

As I delve deeper into Sana’a Old City, time begins to escape me. This city is magic, all the modernization of Arabia temporarily vanishes as you lose yourselves in the labyrinth alleyways. These are the memories this city has left me with.  Nowhere on earth can reminisce with Sana’a, I believed such places could not exist in this present day, but they do!

Sana’a, Yemen’s largest city sprawls over a mountain valley. The majority of the sights are located within the confines of the Old City Walls. However new Sana’a as it is referred to hosts many worthy sights as well. Unfortunately, because of the current situation many of these sights are either closed or extremely difficult to get into. But with some patience, you can still gain access to the quintessential Sana’a.

Sana’a Sights

Since the 1960s Sana’a only resided within the confines of the Old City walls. Now, New Sana’a completely encircles the Old City with glitzy high rises, modern shopping malls, and enough international restaurants to keep any expat happy.

The New City is also home to some of Yemen’s best examples of traditional design intertwined with modern architecture. This mix of old and new makes for a fascinating place to explore. Nothing beats going to KFC or Second Cup and seeing a line up of men dressed in complete traditional Yemeni attire.

Al Saleh Mosque

Newly finished this stunning example of Yemeni classical design mixed with Arabia’s detail to perfection makes an impressive sight amidst the behemoth mosques in the Gulf.

Inside the mosque, you will see different types of stone, including black basalt stones and limestone in red, white and black all which are from Yemen. The massive interior hall comes equipped with wooden roofs in Yemeni Design, five intensely decorated domes, and plenty of hidden nooks to explore.

Unfortunately, the area around the Al- Saleh Mosque plays host to the majority of the ongoing conflict between The Coalition and Houthi forces. Try to visit during the early hours when the soft light shines through all the colored glass.

Shopping in Sana’a Souqs

Sana’a souqs are famous throughout the Middle East, you can find just about anything here apart from the way out after you get lost in them!

The Old City and New City both have souqs, but the Old Cities souq retains a much more authentic atmosphere. Some good buys are Yemeni Scarfs which often have plenty of hand embroidery in multiple colors, Antique silver jewelry in Jewish design, and plenty of other Yemeni handicrafts.  The Yemeni Jambiya is seen worn by almost every man, it also makes a great souvenir, but depending on what it is made of and its age can sometimes run into the thousands of dollars.

Yemeni Coffee –  Yes! Yemen coffee is quite famous and for good reason. Sipping coffee at a Yemen Cafe is a favorite pastime of expats and locals alike. If you make it to Sana’a don’t miss out on visiting a Yemen Cafe or pick up some coffee from the Old City.

Sana’a Old City  

For me, this is quite possibly the best sight in the whole of Yemen . Nowhere captures such a picturesque envision of the Arabia that used to be like Sana’a Old City. Whether it’s getting lost in the smoky souqs, Chewing Khat in an ancient house, or watching the sunset on a rooftop as the call to prayer rings out from the hundreds of minarets in every direction, Sana’a Old City captivating.

Not much has changed in the old city for hundreds of years because the alleyways are designed for camels you won’t see much for cars here, and most shopkeepers have been selling their wares for generations!

Honestly, I spent days wandering around the Old City. When I believed I had seen it all I would find a new area by accident. Walking around you will constantly be invited in for tea which is great as you get to see the inside of these amazing towering structures.

Bab Al-Yaman

Translated to “The Gate of Yemen’, Bab Al-Yaman is the main entryway to Sana’a Old City. A busy market sprawls of the gate on either side making it one of the busiest places in the city. It’s a chaotic experience, but if you find a rooftop with some tea its fun to spend the afternoon watching the madness unfold below.

Great Mosque of Sana’a

Located deep inside the old city this mosque Is one of Sana’a oldest and largest. Now restricting entrance to foreigners it is best seen from high above. Nearby are plenty of hotels and restaurants where you can climb high above the city to see the Mosque in all its glory.

Sana’a Day Trips

After spending a week in the city it was great to get out and see some of Sana’a outlying sights. Leaving Sana’a things instantly change. The land becomes barren and mountainous with small towns dotting the hillside. Its also very quite giving a good break from the congestion and noise of Sana’a.

Here are a few places we visited that are easily done by day tripping from Sana’a.

Dar Al-Hajar (Stone Castle)

Just North of Sana’a on the city limits is the Sone Castle. Arguably one of Yemen’s most famous sights, the Stone Castle will not let you down. This tall caste in Yemeni design seems to defy gravity perched upon a rock that looks as if it will tumble any day.

The Imam Yahya who the Stone Castle was constructed for was assassinated in 1948 leaving the structure to be a museum that even today is open for all to see.

It was fun visiting here as many Yemeni wedding processions come here for photo ops. Seeing all the sparkly wedding outfits and men wielding five-foot rifles added to the happy atmosphere of this place. There is also an amazing view from the top!

Mountain Top Kaukaban and Shibam

Kaukaban and Shibam are about a one hour drive from Sana’a. Heading up into the mountains you pass by many small and quaint villages before you arrive into Shibam. Shibam does not have a lot to offer apart from great restaurants to stop at for lunch on your way to Kaukaban.

Kaukaban is located right above Shibam on the mountaintop. There is a skinny road that snakes its way up to the mountaintop. Kaukaban has unfortunately suffered much from the war. With over half of the community being destroyed by airstrikes. The structures standing are well worth coming here to visit, not to mention the view from here! You can see all the way to Sana’a.

There is a small gift shop in the town. The owner had a five-foot rifle from 1905 which he let me fire. Talk about a rifle with insane power!

Historic Amran

Picture perfect Amran is well worth a stop. The whole city seems to have suffered no damage from the war, and almost all of the structures are built in traditional Yemeni design. The community also seems very peaceful and locals were ecstatic to see us there.

I enjoyed just exploring the many historic streets and watching a very remote community in Yemen. If you like photography you will find it extremely hard to leave this place!

Chewing Khat in Sana’a, Yemen

Almost every single Yemeni you meet, including the women, will chew Khat. Khat is a leaf that contains a small amount of amphetamine in it providing the chewer with a slightly euphoric feeling. Most people, including me, will tell you it’s similar to having a strong cup of coffee, but the feeling lasts as long as you are chewing!

I am going to be very bias when it comes to Khat. If you choose not to chew Khat with the locals, in a Yemeni Khat room you will be missing out on a huge part of the Yemeni travel experience. I was invited to about twenty different homes to chew Khat. This is where I learned almost everything I know about Yemeni culture, and it people.

Yemeni people are also incredibly fun people. When you chew Khat with them you will get to experience how happy and funny they really are. My opinion, chew Khat, it leads to great conversation, knowledge of the country, and you will gain lifelong friends from doing so! As the saying goes, when in Rome!

Visa for Yemen

This is probably the biggest and most important topic for all you readers. I get messaged hundreds of times a day about this. I will be very frank with you how I obtained my visa, and what you can do to get yours.

I got my visa from my fixer. When I entered Yemen he told me he did it officially on the border with my official government permission forms. Yes, it seemed odd, but I went with it. The truth is my fixer bribed the border to get my visa. Being unaware of this got me in a lot of trouble later on in the trip.

The ONLY way to get a visa is through your local embassy. Unfortunately, all tourist visas are currently suspended. SO if you want to come to Yemen as a tourist you will not be issued a visa.

Your other option is to apply for a journalist visa. Some people will get these, but they require a lot of documents. If you are dead set on coming to Yemen please contact Camaleer Tours. They are the only official tour company at the moment.

I have heard that Socotra Island is exempt from the Yemeni Visa which you need on the mainland. I did not go to Socotra so I cannot vouch for this, and I have no information on this region of Yemen.

Staying Safe in Sana’a

There is no way around it, currently, Yemen is not safe. The largest city in Yemen Sanaa does happen to be safer than other regions although. This is because of the heavy presence of Houthi security.

During my stay in Sana’a, I walked the streets without security, and in western clothing. People were very happy to see me, and no one at any time threatened me.

Sana’a main dangers come from the war itself. Almost every day I was in the city there were Coalition lead airstrikes, often within blocks of me. During my stay, Ali Abdul Saleh also joined the Coalition, and an all-out war between his forces, and the Houthi broke out. For almost three full days I was trapped inside my hotel as fighting was happening on the streets in front of us.

Staying safe in Sana’a at times felt like a gamble, but there are a few things I’ve learned while I was there. First, try to avoid hanging around any obvious military checkpoints or buildings. When there are airstrikes these are obvious checkpoints. Secondly, try to avoid being easy to track. There are bad people here, and kidnappings can happen. If your footsteps are easy to predict, then these kinds of things become much more likely. Lastly, avoid the newer areas of town near the Saleh Mosque.  When fighting breaks out, this is the area where a lot of it happens.

Where to Stay in Sana’a

Even with the current situation, Sana’a hotels are still operating. These vary from 5-star hotels with security to 5-dollar-a-night cheap digs. Honestly, in my opinion, the safest places to stay are at a local’s house, you also get an amazing cultural aspect to your stay with this option. But if you have no one to stay with then do not hinder.

When it comes to hotels the ones in the old city are almost completely closed down. So staying in a traditional house is now no longer an option, unless you have a friend. Sana’a 5 star Sheraton Hotel is open, but it’s very expensive.

My two favorite places I stayed are the Royal Sana’a Apartments, and the Royal Sana’a International Hotel. The Apartment was located near Baghdad Street in the new city and the Royal Sana’a International Hotel was on Taiz Street just south of Bab Al-Yaman. Both Hotels were about 30 US dollar per night and were very comfortable.

Yemen Travel Information

Location: Sana’a, Yemen

Tour Company: Cameleers Tours

Guide Book: Bradt Guide Book Yemen

Stephen Gollan

Uncharted Backpacker is a glimpse at the past eleven years of globetrotting I have done. Now at over ninety countries I share my travel knowledge for you so you too can travel the world and see what wonders it has to offer.

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Good day ! Your blog is very useful. I just have some inquiries. What do you mean by “Socotra Island is exempt from the Yemeni Visa? Then what country should i get my visa from if I depart from South Korea? It is my greatest wish to visit Socotra I hope you can enlighten me.

Halo, is it safe for women to travel there?

Wow. So amazing that you have traveled here. I hope to go in the future.

Very good info. Lucky me I came across your blog by chance (stumbleupon).

I’ve book marked it for later!

Top Things to Do in Sanaa, Yemen

Places to visit in sanaa.

• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Big Groups
• Good for Kids
• Adventurous
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Hidden Gems
• Good for Couples
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Old City of Sanaa

2. Dar al-Hajar

3. Bab al-Yemen

4. Al Saleh Mosque

5. Great Mosque of Sana'a

6. Al-Khair Mosque

7. queen arwa mosque.

8. Souk Al-Milh

9. Weider Gym

10. Radfan Tours Agency

11. Opatrip.com Yemen

What travellers are saying.

• Old City of Sanaa
• Bab al-Yemen
• Dar al-Hajar
• Al Saleh Mosque
• Great Mosque of Sana'a

• Sanaa Tourism
• Sanaa Itineraries
• Sanaa Hotels

Top Tourist Attractions in Sanaa

• Amanat Al Asimah
• Things To Do In Sanaa

Best Things To Do in Sanaa, Yemen

Have you ever visited a new place and felt ‘wow’ about it? For many visitors, it happens at Sanaa.

Sanaa may not be as popular as other cities in Yemen, but don’t let that fool you. Sanaa is a smaller but beautiful upcoming tourist destination that is worth a visit. You will be surprised by some of the unique things to do and places you can explore at this hidden destination.

You might wish to revisit it someday again, to take a break and relax at Sanaa.

If you have plans to visit Yemen and are not sure if Sanaa should be included in your itinerary, keep reading. In this list, we have put together some of the things to do in Sanaa and around. We have a hunch that if you include this city in your travel plans, you will be thrilled you did so.

Tourist Attractions in Sanaa

Here is the list of things to do in Sanaa and tourist attractions in city.

Sana'a International Airport (El Rahaba Airport)

Address: El Rahaba Airport, Sanaa, Yemen PO Box 886, Sanaa, Yemen

Bab Al Yemen

Address: Sanaa

Great Mosque

Address: Sana'a, Yemen

National Museum And Military Museum

Khaleej Restaurant

Address: Sana'a

Al Shamiri Plaza Hotel

Address: Al Shamiri Plaza Hotel P.O. Box 4278. Sana'a. Telephone: ( 00 967 - 1 ) 279 100 or 279 592 / 279 798 / 279 346

• What to do in Sanaa in 1 day
• What to do in Sanaa in 2 days

Visiting Sana’a Yemen, A Travel Diary

Updated April 2024 ,  Visiting Sana’a, Yemen, A Travel Diary was originally written in September 2015

It was early in the morning, January 31st, 2014. I sat at my gate at the Dubai Airport in my long black dress and hijab, with my hands slightly shaking, clammy, and clutching my boarding pass to Sana’a and a paper copy of my Yemeni visa .

Would I be kidnapped by a tribe and held for ransom to build a school or road? Would I be kidnapped by Al-Qaeda and most likely beheaded*? Or would I come home unscathed? I mean really, who in the right mind decides to travel to Yemen?

*After all, the US government doesn’t barter with terrorists, unless of course, it involves trading 5 known terrorists for the release of the precious Bowe Berghdal.

I was already playing it out in my head: The ridiculous comments people would write on the article explaining my disappearance while vacationing in Sana’a. Like how I deserved to die for going there, and how stupid I am to travel to Yemen , or how much of an asshole I am for expecting the American government to bail me outta there.

Believe it or not, I don’t think the ‘US government’ has an obligation to bring me home, and I do think that if they were to evacuate me, I should probably be billed for it considering I made the conscious decision to go there even with an understanding of the volatility, instability of acting government, the warring tribal factions, and a long-standing Al-Qaeda presence. Anymore, people feel highly inclined to voice their slighted and unfounded opinions online from the safety of their own couch where laziness and poor health decisions are a far likelier risk of death than a potential terrorist attack.

The announcement came across the PA system. They were boarding my row.

But, but… I had been eyeballing Yemen for years at this point, close to a decade actually. I was so close to Yemen and its alien island of Socotra. I wanted this. I had wanted to travel to Yemen for a long time. Two days ago I left home, 3 days ago I was at my Grandmother’s funeral, 4 weeks ago she was insisting I book my ticket to Sana’a.

I still had mere seconds to back out. The line got closer to the counter.

I could book another ticket out elsewhere, somewhere that didn’t have any advisories saying to stay away for non-essential travel. You’ve never been to the Middle East before Nicole, and you decide to travel to Yemen of all places? 

I noticed a group of three backpackers (who I’d find out later when I ran into them in Socotra had come from Hong Kong) that looked to be about my age. I felt a little more at ease knowing I wasn’t the only foreigner headed to Yemen.  Beep . She scanned my ticket and checked my visa, “Thanks Ms. Smoot, enjoy your flight to Sana’a.”

This was the trip that almost didn’t happen. I had been scouring the internet, looking at photos of Yemen and  Socotra for a few years after reading some articles with an obscure list of destinations to visit, and Socotra was what caught my attention more than anywhere else on it. I dug further down the rabbit hole.

I figured out Socotra was technically part of Yemen. I looked at photos of Yemen, I became fascinated by the sand block buildings with gypsum icing adorning them. I knew I had to see it for myself eventually.

I booked my ticket near the end of December 2013. My grandmother had become ill near the end of November and was to have surgery the following spring in Portland. She insisted I go on a trip, after all, I had been home since my backpacking trip to Southeast Asia that ended in June.

She fell very ill very near my departure date. I had decided I wouldn’t go, I would reschedule my airline tickets a few days before my original departure for another time. But one week before my flight it was all over. Long story short, I attended the funeral of the human who was probably the closest person to me, the day before I left.  I’ll save you all the whole sob story.

There I was, sat in seat 23K looking down over Dubai not too long after the sun rose over it. A couple of hours later I was looking out over the tidal waves of sand dunes in Saudi Arabia’s Empty Quarter and all of its desolate nothingness.

We landed safely in Sana’a. I followed everyone off the plane, across the runway, and inside the Sana’a Airport. I stepped in line at what I assumed was the passport control counter and was soon hearing my name being shouted.

It was Gamal, the guide* for Sana’a that Socotra Eco-Tours arranged for me while I was in mainland Yemen. Gamal was dressed in the traditional garb of Yemeni men:  A long beige fouta**, paired with a Jambiya**.

I was completely in the wrong line, Gamal took me over to a window where he said something to the man behind the window, handed him my printed visa copy with my passport, and before I knew it I was officially in Yemen. We picked up my backpack and we walked right out the front door.

*At the time of my visit (January & February of 2014), it was mandatory to have a guide arranged before you departed to visit Yemen in order to get a visa.

**A fouta is the traditional dress-like outfit Yemeni men wear. A Jamibiya is a dagger worn by most men in the country.

***Most every country under the sun is advising against all travel to Yemen right now due to the ongoing war, Saudi-led and US-backed coalition airstrikes, Al Qaeda presence, and general lawlessness. You can read the US government’s warning,  here .

Start planning here:  The Yemen travel guide

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‘Don’t Leave Sana’a’

By this point all that apprehension I felt about coming to Yemen, all the crazy ideas flittering around my head earlier that morning, were gone. People were friendly, they were out and about, living their lives. Women and kids and men all yelled Salam Aleykum! into my rolled-down car window.

Gamal asked what I had wanted to see during my all-too-short visit to the Yemeni mainland (trust me, I am just kicking myself for not arranging to do a tour throughout all of the regions open to travelers at the time). I blurted out the usual: Old Sana’a, The Bab al-Yemen, Saleh Mosque.

I’m sure these are the same destinations he hears every time he guides an intrepid tourist. Yemen isn’t touristy, but it does have a tourist trail and I was on it. Gamal said, first I will take you out of the city, I will take you to Wadi Dhahr to see Dar al-Hajar, the rock palace. In the time between booking my ticket and getting to Sana’a, everything I had heard of recently about Yemen emphatically warned of you not to leave the city.

What was I doing first thing?  Leaving the city .

Wadi Dhahr, A Side Trip From Sana’a

We had to show my documents to the men guarding the military checkpoint at the entrance to the airport in order for us to drive away. We meandered to the outskirts of Sana’a where we began climbing uphill, crossing several more checkpoints.

As we got to the top of the mountain, Gamal screeched the car off into a dirt lot off the side of the road. From up here, you could see down into the deep wadi where the unusual Dar al-Hajar stood. On the other side, you had a birds-eye view of Sana’a.

People were milling about the lot. People selling Yemeni snacks, people relaxing, drinking shai (tea), others staring down into the canyon below, and watching the scenery, and some were shooting AK-47’s at a target- don’t worry, just for fun.

I bought a hard-boiled egg for a snack and rolled it into the communal bag of spices as we walked around.  Naturally, I was dragged over by some locals to come shoot at the target.

We carried on down into Wadi Dhahr after the snacks and the target practice. A man selling qat even stopped us on our way down. Qat is a leaf popular in Yemen and Somalia, it gives users a mild-euphoric effect.

Dar al Hajar

Dar al Hajar seems to rise up out of the bottom of the wadi like the mirage of a skyscraper. As I got closer I could see that the base was carved out of a giant rock and the palace had been placed atop and adorned in the gingerbread patterns I would see in the near future when I arrived in Old Sana’a. As I made my way in I passed by teenage boys performing traditional tribal war dances outside with swords and jambiyas.

It was a Friday. Friday in Islamic countries is similar to that of Sundays in many Christian-majority countries. It’s a day off and people tend to spend it doing family activities and sharing the day with friends.

It was crowded that day and I ended up the center of attention, I’m probably in hundreds of random people’s photos that day, nearly every kid and family wanted a photo with me after they met me. At one point I was dressed up by a couple of people working at the palace. I was adorned in the robes and silver jewelry alleged to have belonged to one of Imam Yayha’s wives.

Everyone was curious where I was from, most thought I was visiting from Lebanon, Iran, Jordan, Morocco, or Turkey. They were a bit shocked when I’d say the US and even more so when they asked which state and I said Alaska. Most assumed my bloodline was descended from somewhere in the Middle East.

Dar al Hajar, or often referred to as the ‘Rock Palace’ was built in the 1930s as a summer home for the Imam Yahya of Yemen. Inside, near the entrance of the palace was the well they used to collect water from and the kitchen.

The next floors were the wives’ rooms and lounge rooms. I got a lesson in the interesting way Yemenis keep meat cooled during storage in the hot summer months- think of it as ancient refrigeration using shade and gypsum block walls. And then I was introduced to the pinnacle, one of the beautiful architectural designs of Yemen: The Qamaria.

The Qamaria is a window, but not just any regular old window. They consist of intricate designs made of gypsum and then the design is accented with colorful stained glass.

Qamarias are a popular feature of Yemeni architecture and part of what makes the country’s building styles and designs so unique. Not buying and bringing home a Qamaria is one more thing we can add to the I wish-I-would-have List.

Dar al Hajar was a great introduction to Yemen. Not only was it a historical experience, but I was also able to meet local people and see what a day off in the country was really like.

Saleh Mosque

Controversial and stunning. A gross misuse of money, but an almost monument to the city. The Saleh Mosque was constructed on the southern outskirts of Sana’a in 2008 and named after the president at the time- Ali Abdullah Salah.

The hope of the administration was that the mosque would help promote moderate Islam in a country that is so deeply divided, tribe to tribe, and sect to sect. Saleh was the recipient of many a criticism and understandably so. The construction of the mosque didn’t come without tragedy, numerous times minarets collapsed during the building of the mosque resulting in several deaths.

Of course, Saleh was heavily scrutinized for spending $60-million US dollars on a mosque in his name in a country with waning socio-economic issues and spiraling toward unavoidable chaos.

It is irresponsible to spend that sort of money on something so cosmetic when many of your people are malnourished and living vastly below the poverty line. But hey, look all around the world- Politicians do it all over the world to no avail and with no shame, even here in the west. I’m not condoning it, I’m just well aware that every place seems to have their ‘Saleh Mosque’ if you will.

Controversy aside- we can all agree on one thing. The inside of the mosque is one of the most beautiful pieces of artwork I’ve ever seen in my life. It’s massive and once inside reeks of architectural perfection. I’ve since been in numerous mosques spanning Central Asia , Africa , the Middle East, and Southeast Asia and none have rivaled the impression this one left.

Meandering Through Old Sana’a

Beguiling and bemusing is the best way to describe it, Old Sana’a is like nowhere else. I’ve been to several places since that have elements reminiscent of certain aspects of Old Sana’a but nothing quite as enchanting and mysterious. It’s architectural porn really.

Narrow mazes of impossible-to-navigate stone streets, high-rise sun-baked brick homes iced like gingerbread houses with white gypsum and Qamaria windows, hunger inciting smells around every corner, exotic spices and smells emanating from the souks, and bustling with people. And to top it all off, the impressive city has been continuously inhabited for over 2,500 years. Of course, the city’s rich history and long-standing inhabitation have lead it to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Approaching the Old City I noticed something unusual. It was built up higher above the streets outside around it. Gamal, being the expert guide had an answer. Sana’a can receive heavy rains in the monsoon season.

The city was built in a way to keep the streets from flooding. Instead, the streets below that circle the outer edge of the city will act as a wash and Old Sana’a will be encircled in a temporary moat of rainwater.

Everything I had read leading up to me arriving in Sana’a had me thinking that I’d be walking the streets of Sana’a with Gamal and not see hardly another soul. The media, in their norm- only reporting the most negative aspects of society, made me picture Sana’a as being empty.

I always have envisioned war zones, or as Yemen’s case at my time of visit, ‘teetering on brink of war zone’ as being devoid of people, empty streets, no sign of life. People staying inside homes and peeking out windows, only darting out when they absolutely needed something. This wasn’t the case at all. Sana’a was happening.

People were at every turn. People grabbing my hands and dropping pistachios, almonds, and raisins into them, grabbing scoops of spices and running them under my nose, women taking me by the arm and throwing Yemeni wedding gowns on me, men glazed eyed with bulging cheeks full of Qat, Gamal welcoming me into teahouse after teahouse for a cup of shai, kids waving hello and women grabbing me by the arm and whirling me into their homes only to whip off their abayas and niqabs to sit and chat with her friends and their new star foreign friend she found in the souk. This was the reality of Sana’a.

Of course, at any moment everyone knows a missile could strike, a grenade could blow off or a bomb could explode. But should people be in constant fear and forced not to live because of it? Sana’a was everything and more than what I envisioned it.

I never even could sense fear or wind of caution. Even though I know that Sana’a is pretty dangerous as of now, I hope that the spirit and life in the Sana’anis are still present.

One of my favorite things about the city was heading to the rooftop of one of Sana’a’s highest buildings to sip some shai as the sun set and the Call to Prayer sang from minarets near and far all over the city. As the Call to Prayer came to a close the city’s night came right back to life. The bustle carried on. Sana’a is Arabian Nights come to life.

Bab al Yemen

This is the gate to Yemen, giving access to Old Sana’a passing through its over one-thousand-year-old fortified walls. The gate is busy, with people constantly walking and driving in and out.

A woman driving a Landcruiser full of kids laid on her horn to get my attention while the whole car waved at me. She wanted to make sure that I knew they were welcoming me into their city. Gamal even added, “See, Yemen is much more progressive than Saudi Arabia. Women drive here, did you know that?”.

Obviously, Gamal is used to most tourists assuming that some of the restrictions of its neighbors happen here.

The most magical of the Bab al Yemen was still yet to come. Gamal ushered me toward a dark hallway corridor. I could see white gypsum steps going up inside. This was the passage that led atop the Bab al Yemen. There we stood with several other onlookers watching the lively city under that golden light as the sun started to make its escape below the horizon.

The Great Mosque of Sana’a

The Great Mosque of Sana’a is the oldest in Yemen and one of the oldest in the world. It was built sometime estimated between 630 AD and 715 AD.

According to local legend, it is believed that the Prophet Muhammad was involved in the planning and construction of the mosque, although no evidence has been uncovered proving this legend true. One important discovery made was during a 1972 renovation in which the Sana’a Manuscript was discovered, along with several copies of an ancient version of the Quran, and thousands of rare Arabic Manuscripts that are tied to the start of Islam, Sheba’s Palace of Ghamdan, and the Umayyad Period.

The ancient Sana’a Manuscript is the oldest known, intact copy of the Quran. It contains Quran verses that differ from the present-day version.

The mosque is only open to members of the Muslim faith, so I was unable to enter but was able to appreciate it from the outside. Gamal even pushed me up near the entrance and had me stick my head in just to see. The Great Mosque was a pride to Gamal and all Yemenis, after all- it is the location of the oldest copy of the Quran.

Mountains of colorful spices, nuts, coffee beans, and dried fruits neatly arranged in rows lined the narrow alleyways of the busy market. Every exotic small you could imagine swirled around in the air. Even though I’d traveled extensively through Europe and Asia by this point, I’d never experienced a market quite this interesting or ancient.

Sana’a’s Souk is one of the oldest souks in the world.

What I Ate In Sana’a

With a little influence from neighbors and mountains that sectioned the country off from much of the Arabian Peninsula over the years, Yemen has developed a cuisine distinctly their own.

Lunch is the main meal in Yemen, which made it my favorite. Going into a restaurant at lunchtime was a fun experience. When Gamal and I walked into the first restaurant we ate at, we were brought to a table in the middle of the room, quickly after we were seated we were brought tea and traditional qawa- Yemen’s coffee drink, and one they’re famous for.

Other guests started pouring in, many of the groups with women came in and asked for a private area where the staff brought out portable frames with fabric to block them in. Other families and groups ate out in the open as we did. It was quite interesting watching how the women managed to skirt the food around their niqab and into their mouths without seeing any skin.

Pretty soon our table was inundated with dish after dish after dish. Basically, the way it worked was plates of dips, sauces vegetables, rice and meats came out covered with plastic wrap. Gamal showed me that in Yemen you take a spoon full of the dishes and put them on your own plate and then the dishes are taken to other tables. It’s very communal.

Then the cornerstone of any Yemeni meal came out: The largest flatbread I’d ever seen in my life called malawah. Flatbread is your utensil for eating. You use it to pick up your dips, sauces, veggies, meat, and rice and bring it to your mouth. Flatbread is the mode of transportation in the Yemeni food scene.

There was Salta, Ful Medames, Yogurt, Chili Sauce, Harees, Kabsa, Mandi, Kebab, and Thareed just to name a few. Everything tasted new to me and I loved every bit. Most dishes are spiced with a mixture called Hawaij that includes anise, ginger, cardamom, and fennel. Other important spices in Yemeni cuisine include fenugreek, cumin, coriander, salt, pepper, cilantro, mint, turmeric, and chilis.

Of course, dessert is involved with any lunch. I was served a sweet Bint al-Sahm with the famed Yemeni honey drizzled over it.

Breakfasts and dinners are generally lighter meals and will be centered around a flatbread and tea or kawa. Fatoush, Fattut, and Full are common dishes at both meals. Yogurt with honey is also a popular side. The one difference between the two meals is that breakfast sometimes includes pastries.

Where I Slept In Sana’a

I stayed at a small family ran hotel called the Arabia Felix* that stood right in the heart of Old Sana’a. I had a room on the fifth floor where I had views out over the city. It’s a popular place for traveling Yemenis and backpacker types (the few that make it here, that is).

Sure, there are bigger hotels outside the Old City with armed guards, but I rather stay in something a little more Yemeni and in the middle of it all.

Of course, come sun up, there was no more sleeping as the Call to Prayer echoed throughout the city and into the room. But at the same time, there is something magical and enchanting about the Call to Prayer ringing out over the city and having the sun glimmering through the colorful glass of the Qamarias above my windows. I remember getting up, cracking my window open, and just sitting in the frame watching the city wake up.

*The name Arabia Felix is a nickname that was given to the country by the Romans in ancient times meaning ‘Happy Arabia’.

The Land Of Milk & Honey

The Land of Milk and Honey is one of Yemen’s nicknames, given by Noah. Yemen is widely known to produce the finest honey in the world. The Hadhramaut region in particular produces the best of the best.

The people of Yemen have been keeping bees for hundreds of years. Of course, before I departed the country I stocked up on some Hadhramaut honey before I left the country. I also packed a large jar of Socotri honey from the island back home as well.

Ever Wonder Where Mocha Comes From?

Along Yemen’s short Red Sea coast sits the port of Mocha. Most people in the west know Mocha as a chocolatey coffee drink slung in most coffee shops. This isn’t the real Mocha in the traditional sense of the name.

Mocha is actually a particular bean native to the fertile region surrounding the port. Mocha beans became famous throughout the ancient world for their naturally warm, chocolatey tones. At one point Yemen was a massive exporter of coffee beans along the spice trade route.

Of course I had to try some real Mocha and Yemeni coffee, or kawa as they call it.

What I Thought of The Life of Yemen’s Backbone: Women

Yemen is an interesting country for women, particularly the cities. Women really are walking this tight rope balancing act of old and new ways. More and more there is a push for them to be educated, there is a push for them to work, but also there are societal expectations nudging them to marry young (typically to be arranged by parents) and have several children (four children is average).

In some ways, the expectation to go to school, succeed, have a career, get married, become a mother, and take care of the home, made the lives of women not feel that different from home, while at the same time Yemeni women are subject to arranged marriages, far fewer rights than women in western countries, social pressure to wear a concealing cloak of black, among many other injustices that aren’t the norm in western countries that we take for granted, made Yemen feel light-years away.

The general treatment is not perfect by any means. In many parts of Yemen, women are not treated well. They are married off as child brides, abused, tortured, and more.

As far as women’s dress in Yemen it was very conservative in 2014. When I was visiting there was no law requiring what women had to wear, but the societal norm was the black abaya, paired with the niqab (the face covering veil), leaving eyes as the one visible human flesh.

As Al Qaeda made its presence known throughout the country the colorful abayas traditionally worn by women were soon replaced with the cloak of solid black and the use of the niqab began. Women didn’t necessarily want to give up their traditional dress, but in avoidance of potential attacks on them, many chose to conform. You still see women nipping out for quick errands near to their homes in the traditional Sana’ani Curtains.

Even with the sea of solid black, you see around the city, women have still managed to accessorize their plain black uniforms. You see abayas worn around and being sold in shops adorned with intricate gold and rhinestone designs.

Traveling as a female in Yemen opened me up to a unique opportunity that visiting men never get to see: what the women of Yemen look like underneath the abaya. Once inside homes and into the female quarters of the house, all the layers come off. What they wear underneath is surprisingly western- leggings, t-shirts, jeans, cute dresses, jewelry, and perfectly done makeup are not unusual.

You can even read this article  here , where a Yemeni woman is interviewed on her feelings toward the niqab. Another interview to check out is this one by  Vice , where women are asked about the Niqab among other things. Many women will tell you that they find the full covering including the niqab to give them a sense of reassuring anonymity.

I personally chose to wear a long sleeved flowing black dress paired with a black scarf worn like a hijab. When I was planning my trip with the help of the lovely crew at Socotra Eco Tours, I was told to dress conservatively, that covering hair was a good idea but not required, and that a key element was to look enough different that your disguise didn’t backfire on you.

As a tourist you’ll probably be out doing things, activities, and visiting areas where Muslim women may not be allowed or will be chastised for partaking in. Being a foreign female in Yemen and much of the Islamic world allows you a unique chance to see many things local women aren’t allowed to, and others men would never be able to, it’s as if the foreign female is its own gender.

*Note: Dress on the island of Socotra is more liberal than in the mainland of Yemen, although local women tend to dress conservatively. Colorful abayas are more common, although all black is still seen. Islanders are more accustomed to seeing foreigners and western-style dress.

I actually didn’t mind wearing the abaya and hijab. I found that I stayed cool with the breeze whirling the layers of fabric. It was easy enough to just whip my hair back in a bun in the morning and ignore it all day with it covered by my headscarf.

I didn’t feel self-conscious about how I looked in my loose-fitting dress and abaya, it hides everything. While I wouldn’t want to be forced to dress a certain way whether by law or by society if women want and choose to wear this conservative design, more power to them.

Plus let’s face it even in the west due to school regulations, the fashion industry, and societal pressure, women and girls are expected to dress in certain ways. It’s all part of the greater plot to keep women down. In the US when female rape victims come forward the first thing they’re asked of course is, “what were you wearing?” Because these nimrods still haven’t figured out that it isn’t about what you were wearing, it’s about control and power. I’ve been catcalled, hassled, yelled at, and inappropriately grabbed and touched while out back home all the while some of these events happened while being solidly covered from my toes to my collarbones.

*I know you’ve probably noticed that I have no photos of Yemeni women. Many are not comfortable with having a photo taken by a stranger and I didn’t feel comfortable just snapping photos of them.

What Was It Like To Travel To Sana’a As A Solo Female

I decided to visit Sana’a on my own, but the reason for this was that no one would join me. This wasn’t my first trip or even my first travels to a difficult destination.

I didn’t have any issues as a solo female traveling in Sana’a, Socotra, or anywhere else in Yemen. But it’s worth noting that at the time (and still now in 2020) that you can only get a visa with the help of a fixer or guide, so I was typically accompanied by Gamal while in mainland Yemen.

My Overall Impression of Sana’a, Yemen

I loved my entirely-too-short time on Yemen’s mainland visiting Sana’a, Wadi Dhahr, and Dar al Hajar. I am so happy that I did get to travel to Yemen and have the opportunity to see it. One of the only regrets I’ve ever had has been not spending more time here (we could also throw in there that I regret not knowing how to properly use my DSLR camera when I was in Yemen as well, but that’s a whole different story in its own).

It’s a unique country, steeped in ancient history, contains some of the most welcoming and friendly people, and is an all too often forgotten corner of the world. The poverty, the struggle, the difficult lives people lead in Yemen are apparent, especially when you compare it to its Arabian Peninsula neighbors. Yemen is more on par economically with some of its East African cousins just across the narrow Red Sea.

Yemen is home to so many important locations in all of human history. Just pick up a book on Yemen’s history and start reading, it really is one of the most fascinating countries. I think if people knew what was in Yemen and were openly exposed to what is being done to the country and how regardless of religion many of the sites being destroyed in missile strikes and blown up by fundamentalist organizations are actually important in all of human history.

The oldest known copy of the Quran is here, Muslim or not which is an important document in human history. Sana’a is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, up there with Jericho, Argos, and Damascus in antiquity. Why no one in the west cares and even in some cases are completely unaware of what’s being done to Yemen is baffling yet quite apparent: Yemen is poor and Yemen doesn’t have known oil reserves.

I can’t wait for the day that the war is over or at least stifled to the point that help can get in. This is one of the most fascinating countries I’ve visited and I only was able to see a small sliver of it. I would love to one day go back.

You probably have noticed I didn’t include any information on my trip to Socotra in this post. The two areas of the country I visited were Sana’a and Socotra. I ultimately decided to split them into two different posts because they are so vastly different.

Unfortunately, as of 2020, traveling to Sana’a isn’t exactly possible, however, the eastern part of the country including the Hadhramaut and al Mahrah region is, though it comes with risks and is realistically only possible with the help of local fixers.

Donate to Those Affected by the Crisis in Yemen

If you want to donate any money to Yemen’s people to help with the dark humanitarian crisis currently engulfing the country you can give money to:

• Zakat Foundation : Provides emergency relief and food distribution in several countries including Yemen.
• International Rescue Committee : Helps to bring safety, education, power, and health services to some of the world’s most devastating humanitarian disasters including Yemen.
• Baitulmaal AHED : Organization that works in Yemen as well as all over the world to help bring poverty and disaster relief.
• Islamic Relief : Working to alleviate hunger, illiteracy, and disease in Yemen and globally.
• Solidarios sin Fronteras : Spanish organization helping bring relief, food, water, and reconstruction projects to Yemen as well as Socotra.

More Posts from Yemen:

How To Get A Visa For Socotra (Yemen)

Socotra Travel Guide: The Jewel Of Arabia

Socotra Expedition April 9-16, 2024

8 Day South Yemen Expedition April 13-20, 2024

13 Day Socotra & South Yemen Expedition April 8-20, 2024

The Yemen-Oman Border Crossing

Visiting Sana’a, Yemen, A Travel Diary

Exploring The Sufi Crossroads In Tarim, Yemen

Yemen Travel: Everything You Need To Know

10 Days In Socotra: The Most Alien looking Place on Earth

How To Get To Socotra In 2024

Camping Under The Stars In The Yemeni Empty Quarter

A Journey Through Yemen’s Al Mahrah Region

Where The Wild Things Grow: Socotra’s Firhmin Forest

Socotra Packing List & Prep Guide

Wadi Hadhramaut Travel Guide, Yemen

A Guide To Traveling In South Yemen

A Journey Through Wadi Daw’an, Yemen

Visiting the Outer Islands of the Socotra Archipelago

Wanna Go To Socotra?

Socotra In Photos

Haid al Jazil: Central Yemen’s Most Beautiful Village

The Mud Skyscrapers Of Shibam: The Manhattan Of The Desert

Ancient Rock Art in Dahaisi Cave, Socotra

Visiting The Teetering Husn Fort In Qarn Majid, Yemen

Why I Traveled to Yemen in 2014

Socotra Tour: Camel Trekking & Rugged Coastlines

Socotra Archipelago Tour: Outlying Islands & Remote Peaks

18 thoughts on “visiting sana’a, yemen, a travel diary”.

Hi. Nicole Thanks for amazing story. I wish you were able to visit Hudaydah it is great city to the what of Yemen on the coast of Red Sea

Hello Nicole,

I plan to go to Yemen this year. Can you please contact me, Have some questions. I really want to go but am very hesitant

Hi Karima, I’ve sent you an email

Hi, I’am represent the Villas&Golfe magazine. We want make a editorial work about Sana. For that, we need photos, in hight Resolution. Can you send us?

maria cruz jornalist

Hi Maria, I just sent you an email in regards to Sana’a photos.

Just stumbled upon your article and loved it. It was beautifully written and I loved reading about my fatherland ❤️ My father’s side of the family live in Aden and Sana’a and I have not been to visit since 2003. I miss Yemen so much and hopefully will be able to visit in the near future ❤️

Hey Nadia, Thank you for reading! I hope you get back one day. I have not gotten to Aden yet, but one day I hope to.

Hi! This is breathtaking. I’ve been thinking about Yemen for a while and I’m impressed (motivated even more I guess) about your solo trip. Thanks for sharing your experiences and thoughts about this enygmatic country!

Hey Juan, thanks! Yemen was amazing, I really would love to travel the mainland again eventually and see more. Hope you make it there one of these days

Thank you for your kind words about my home country of Yemen. I miss very much my family and Sana’a. Insha’allah peace returns to my brothers and sisters and the country I miss so much

Hi Haidar, I hope for the same and I hope your family is okay there

Hello Nicole! I’m so pleased I found this post and so happy you were able to visit Yemen and have an amazing time. I have unfortunately never been, but my father and his family are from Aden in the south of Yemen and I have taken an interest in learning more about Yemen through my Master’s programme. As someone who constantly sees media and reads about the horrific atrocities taking place in Yemen today, it is refreshing to see a positive account from a fellow American traveller to remind us all that there is still hope and Yemen will always be a beautiful country full of culture and history. I hope you can return one day and visit Aden!

Hi Yasmin, I hope you can get there one day soon and see where your family came from. Yemen is fascinating and it’s so sad what is happening there. I wish I’d have taken the chance to explore more when I went in 2014 since things were a lot better than they are currently (though they weren’t too great when I was there and things seemed to deteriorate quickly). It’s definitely a special place

I would love to do this one day! I have massive respect for you! You’re a true adventure traveller! 😀

I hope you make it there one day, it’s a beautiful place!

I hope you came back to Yemen . because there are a lot of places you have not visited yet … & I think you are so brave , also you have the courage ….. we are so proud of you .

I do as well, Yemen is an amazing place and I miss it a lot.

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Top Things to Do in Sanaa, Yemen - Sanaa Must-See Attractions

Things to do in sanaa.

• 5.0 of 5 bubbles
• Budget-friendly
• Good for Big Groups
• Good for Kids
• Adventurous
• Good for a Rainy Day
• Hidden Gems
• Good for Couples
• Honeymoon spot
• Good for Adrenaline Seekers
• Things to do ranked using Tripadvisor data including reviews, ratings, photos, and popularity.

1. Old City of Sanaa

2. Dar al-Hajar

3. Bab al-Yemen

4. Al Saleh Mosque

5. Great Mosque of Sana'a

6. Al-Khair Mosque

7. queen arwa mosque.

8. Souk Al-Milh

9. Weider Gym

10. Radfan Tours Agency

11. Opatrip.com Yemen

What travellers are saying.

• Old City of Sanaa
• Bab al-Yemen
• Dar al-Hajar
• Al Saleh Mosque
• Great Mosque of Sana'a