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Black Passengers Are in the Minority on River Cruises—This New France Sailing Aims to Change That

Amawaterways’ new soulful epicurean experience is the first black heritage-focused itinerary in the river cruise industry..

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Guests on AmaWaterways’ inaugural Soulful Epicurean Experience sailing visit Domain de Fond-Vieille in France’s Beaujolais wine region for an afternoon winetasting experience.

Courtesy of Nicole Edenedo

Dinner was just wrapping up when several waiters emerged from the kitchen, one behind the other. Two carried birthday cakes lit with sparkling candles as they hurried toward two guests in the packed dining room onboard the 152-passenger AmaKristina .

The American version of the Happy Birthday song naturally followed. Its chorus was led by the waiters who no doubt have sung this same tune in the same way for scores of other guests on previous river cruises with AmaWaterways.

But before the waiters, many of whom hailed from Eastern Europe, could finish the final note of the song, the guests in the dining room—all of whom were Black travelers—broke out into Stevie Wonder’s “Happy Birthday” song, a 1980s classic, revered and sung without fail in many African American communities, often during birthday celebrations.

It was the first night of AmaWaterways’ inaugural sailing of the Soulful Epicurean Experience , an 11-day river cruise itinerary designed to explore Black history and culture in southern France along the Rhône River and in Paris during a three-night extension.

Whether it was the gospel-like energy electrifying the room or the puzzled looks of amusement twisting smiles out of the waiters’ faces, everyone had suddenly come to a collective realization: This was going to be a different kind of river cruise and it was going to be fun.

A performance by local flamenco group was among the musical events on the new Soulful Epicurean Experience itinerary.

The lack of Black travelers on river cruises

River cruising has traditionally catered to, and been marketed toward, white travelers. The travel style has been priced and promoted as a more luxurious experience than ocean cruising. And Black travel advisors say that historically ocean cruising has done a better job of attracting a more diverse passenger base, including Black travelers, largely because the marketing materials for ocean cruising are more inclusive.

“One of my frustrations whenever I look for Black travelers in travel marketing materials is that there’s never an international background; they never look like they’re in a destination,” said Jackie Williams, owner of NuVibe Travel Experiences and one of the travel advisors who was instrumental in helping to create the Soulful itinerary. Williams was onboard the AmaKristina for the inaugural sailing.

In 2021, Williams and about 10 other Black travel advisors met with AmaWaterways executives to discuss the fact that they wanted to introduce their higher-income ocean cruise clients to river cruising. But they didn’t have brochures that reflected what the experience would be like for Black travelers.

Jackie Williams, owner of NuVibe Travel Experiences, spoke with the author in Gordes, Provence, about how AmaWaterways’ new Soulful Epicurean Experience itinerary came together

The advisors posed tough questions that AmaWaterways, and frankly, the river cruise industry as a whole, needed to answer about the lack of representation of Black travelers in its marketing portfolio, and who exactly river cruising is supposed to be for if the industry hopes to capture the dollars of a more diverse, affluent audience actively seeking luxury travel experiences beyond ocean cruising.

Those conversations led to AmaWaterways organizing photo shoots with Williams and her advisor colleagues, along with their friends and families, and incorporating them into its travel brochures. They also led to the creation of the Soulful Epicurean Experience sailings.

Standing in that dining room, singing along to Wonder’s “Happy Birthday” and knowing the backstory of how the Soulful Epicurean Experience came to be, made that first night onboard the AmaKristina that much sweeter, that much more victorious—not just because I knew that this was the first Black heritage river cruise experience in the industry but also because I knew it wasn’t going to be the last.

We belong here, I remember thinking to myself. We belong everywhere.

AmaWaterways’ inaugural Soulful Epicurean Experience river cruise

In many ways the Soulful Epicurean Experience itinerary operated just like any other AmaWaterways river cruise itinerary in Europe. The sailing followed the line’s traditional Colors of Provence itinerary , a seven-night journey on France’s Rhône River between Lyon and Arles.

The itinerary

All of the Soulful Experience itineraries, which will also operate in Egypt and Portugal in 2024, include pre- or post-cruise extensions for a more immersive Black history experience on land. Ours included three extra nights in Paris after the cruise, where we would explore the legacy and the impact that figures like novelist Alexander Dumas and American entertainer Josephine Baker have had on French society and culture.

Most European river cruise itineraries center around wine and culinary experiences, tours of cobblestone towns by bus and on foot, live nightly entertainment of some sort, and a variety of onboard programming, from demonstrations to guest lectures and fitness classes, that are all meant to complement the relaxing sailing experience.

The writer in Place Josephine Baker, a square dedicated to the American expat and entertainer in Montparnasse, Paris, one of the stops during the inaugural Soulful Epicurean Experience.

Those elements were also present on this trip, except the itinerary was punctuated with experiences that highlighted the Black history and culture present in Provence and Paris.

An afternoon of winetasting in Beaujolais followed a morning visit to a contemporary art gallery dedicated to exhibiting African artists. An onboard guest lecture about France’s relationship with its own Black and African communities was preceded by a scenic drive through Provence’s countryside. A lively jazz concert on the ship that turned into a full-blown dance party capped off an all-day Black history tour in Marseille.

Jazzmine Douse, director of national accounts at AmaWaterways, said she worked closely with Williams and the other Black travel advisors to design a thought-provoking, culturally rich itinerary that centered around the Black experience, while also delivering the kind of luxury and relaxing river cruise experience that AmaWaterways is known for.

“We always had to go back to what the theme of the cruise was,” said Douse. “It’s a celebration of the African and Black diaspora through food, wine, and music, particularly jazz. So within our Colors of Provence itinerary, we had to identify which tours we could replace and where we could add in additional experiences.”

Activities and excursions

In Vienne, France, for instance, home to the annual festival Jazz à Vienne , the original itinerary called for a morning walking tour of Roman ruins. Instead, we watched a local jazz trio at winery and event space Le Caveau du Château , followed by a winetasting. And later that afternoon back onboard the ship, Jean-Paul Boutellie, the founder of Jazz à Vienne, gave a talk about the history of the festival and how his passion for jazz and supporting artists led to the creation of the event.

In Avignon, in lieu of an afternoon bike tour, we visited Fondation Blachère , France’s first contemporary art foundation dedicated to the exhibition and promotion of contemporary African art. The multicultural hub was tucked into the middle of a small French village, Bonnieux, where most of the visitors were locals and mostly white. They appeared engrossed in the existential African artworks, and I thought of the conversations they might be having, the worlds they were peering into through these artworks, and the changes they may have been going through the longer they stood in front of each piece, trying to understand a life, an experience, different from their own.

Tata Sénégalais de Chasselay, a cemetery and World War II memorial in Chasselay dedicated to the 188 Senegalese soldiers who were murdered in 1940 by German soldiers in the open field surrounding the site

Our time in Lyon was our most dynamic, and probably my favorite stop on the trip. We spent two nights in France’s gastronomic capital and its third largest city. On our first full day, we took a 30-minute ride outside the city to Tata Sénégalais de Chasselay , a cemetery and World War II memorial for the nearly 200 Senegalese servicemen who were massacred by German forces in 1940 in the open field surrounding the memorial site. Our guide was passionate about the backstory regarding how France and French veterans made the effort to recover the soldiers’ bodies and build a memorial that was a symbol and testament to their Senegalese heritage and culture.

After our visit to Tata Sénégalais de Chasselay, we made our way to Beaujolais to unwind with a culinary afternoon tasting various wines and cheeses from the region at Domand de Fond-Vieille and eventually headed back to the ship.

Free time to explore

There were plenty of moments for free time throughout our itinerary, even with all of the excursions and onboard activities on our agenda. And many of the guests took advantage of that free time.

Some took morning walks with friends from their groups that led to afternoon lunches in Arles or Avignon. Others still had energy in the evening for a night on the town in Lyon. I tore myself away from the program lineup at times to explore the cities we were passing through, including in Avignon, where I befriended a couple of bartenders, and in Lyon, where I managed to recruit a partner-in-crime for what felt like an endless, magical night in the city.

Who it’s for

Ultimately, the Soulful Experience river cruise itineraries are not exclusively for Black travelers—these itineraries are for everyone. They simply put a focus on Black and African cultures, providing a vibrant lens through which to view the history and heritage of the destinations passengers are sailing through.

Guests sailing on AmaWaterways’ Soulful journeys will experiences the same level of luxury and relaxation as on any AmaWaterways river cruise.

Courtesy of Miroslav Petrasko/AmaWaterways

The details

The next two departures of the Colors of Provence Soulful Experience , which is what the itineraries are named in 2024, will take place on June 13 and June 17, 2024, with fares starting at $4,999 per person.

There will also be the first departure in Egypt, the Secrets of Egypt & the Nile Soulful Experience , on May 17, 2024, with fares starting at $5,299 per person.

And the newest itinerary in Portugal, the Enticing Douro Soulful Experience , will depart on November 13, 2024, with fares starting at $3,799 per person.

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Highlights of the Seine River in France

Our Impressions of the Seine & Paris river cruise is sure to surprise and delight our guests who enjoy experiencing new destinations through the local culture and cuisine, those who appreciate art, especially the work of the great Impressionists, and so many more. As AmaWaterways’ Director of European Operations, Wade Korzan has had the pleasure of a sneak peek into all of the enriching experiences we are offering on this itinerary along France’s Seine River.

First Impressions

Having sailed the Seine River many times, I was surprised by the distinctive experience this new itinerary offers in the picturesque Normandy countryside and among stunning gardens memorialized by the Impressionists. I can never get enough of Paris, but we also enjoyed sampling French cheese and wine, our small-group biking tour through Le Havre and lovely châteaux such as the palatial Champ de Bataille with its unique fountain.

Glorious Gardens

This sailing is a must-do for those with a deep appreciation for all things that bloom and grow. From Monet’s famously painted gardens at Giverny to the well-manicured Gardens d’Acquigny to the 200-year-old Harcourt Arboretum, I found many lovely moments to “stop and smell the roses.”

Camembert, Cider and Calvados

I also celebrated French culinary delights with “ beaucoup d’enthousiasme” . The sweet aroma of Norman apple orchards, the rich taste of local specialty cheeses paired with Calvados (apple brandy) at a local farm in La Roche-Guyon and Rouen’s finest chocolates made for a truly mouthwatering journey.

Not to be missed was our unforgettable post-river cruise land package in Brittany – I was fascinated by the swash-buckling history of St. Malo. But what awed me the most was Mont St. Michel . Much like Egypt’s pyramids or the Great Wall of China, Mont St. Michel is a highlight of life. I’ve traveled all over the world and come face to face with many iconic monuments, but this site truly took my breath away.

Optional Land Packages

Our Impressions of the Seine & Paris river cruise is best reserved with our optional pre- and post-river cruise land packages in Paris and St. Malo, France. These packages can be added to your reservation by your travel advisor and allow you to indulge your wanderlust alongside an intimate group of fellow cruisers. Best of all, they include stays at 4- and 5-star hotels, daily breakfast, guided excursions, convenient transfers to and from the ship, and the services of one of our extraordinary Cruise Managers throughout your journey – unique in the industry.

Two Nights in Paris

Rest and allow yourself to recharge in your luxurious hotel after your flight into Paris. The following day, take in all the “hidden sights” of the romantic “City of Lights” on your guided tour, including Montmartre , long known as the city’s premier artists’ enclave and home to the Basilica du Sacré-Coeur. Prior to embarkation, you will also explore the Atelier-Lumieres, Paris’s “Workshop of Lights,” a uniquely immersive digital art experience.

Three Nights in St. Malo

After disembarking the ship, visit Fourgères in Brittany, known for its medieval fortress, en route to your hotel. The following day, explore the walled city of St. Malo , which boasts a unique history steeped in piracy. Later, venture to Dinard, with its Belle Epoque villas, and Dinan, one of Brittany’s best preserved towns. Enjoy the rest of the evening at your leisure, then wake up for what many may consider the highlight of this package, Mont St. Michel, one of the most scenic places for amateur photographers to hone their craft in all of Brittany .

Extend Your Journey Further

A majority of our France sailings offer departures on the same day of the week, making it easy and convenient to reserve combination sailings on up to three different rivers. Your travel advisor can help you customize your ideal longer river cruise vacation. Best of all, with our crew taking care of you throughout your journey, you will experience a seamless train or plane transfer between sailings.

Recommended Combination River Cruise

Discover timeless vineyards and iconic châteaux with idyllic scenery at every turn when you combine our 7-night Taste of Bordeaux with your 7-night Impressions of the Seine & Paris sailing. These itineraries are a must for anyone interested in the best of French lifestyle, and will conjure beautiful memories for years to come.

Explore all of our French itineraries and contact your travel advisor to customize your ideal French immersion journey today! And check out our Impressions of the Seine & Paris Wine Cruise.

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AmaWaterways operates award-winning river cruises aboard elegant vessels. Founded in 2002, the company boasts a relaxing onboard atmosphere and top-notch cuisine.

AmaWaterways' fleet features onboard spas and salons, bicycles for exploring ashore, complimentary Wi-Fi, panoramic views from restaurants and lounges and a choice of dining venues. Many staterooms are outfitted with the line’s twin balcony concept -- a combination of a full-size, walk-out balcony and a French balcony with glass doors that open to a railing.

Excursions in port provide an unparalleled experience. Guests can customize activities and explore at their own pace with gentle, regular, active and in some cases, late-riser options.

Trip ratings on this site are based on the quality of accommodations, the number of included meals and activities and the level of service delivered. AmaWaterways’ vacations are categorized as deluxe on the industry rating scale (budget, first class or deluxe).

• Save up to $2,000 per couple on river cruises. Prices shown reflect discount. Click here .

• Save up to 20% off the cruise price of 2026 departures. Prices shown reflect discount. Click here .
• Save $2,000 per couple off summer sailings. Plus, receive a FREE one-category stateroom upgrade in certain cabin categories and a $50 per stateroom onboard credit. Click here .

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Holiday triple savings.

ON SELECT 2020 CRUISES

INTRODUCING AMAMAGNA

DREAMS DO COME TRUE

Countries: Austria, Hungary, Slovakia

Rivers: Danube

Ships: AmaBella, AmaMagna, AmaReina, AmaViola

Join us for an enhanced musical experience with music-themed excursions and live performances on board and on shore - all included!

Countries: Bulgaria, Croatia, Hungary, Romania, Serbia, Austria

Ships: AmaBella, AmaVerde

Touch history in Austria, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania, as you sail along the exotic lower Danube.

Countries: France

Rivers: Garonne, Dordogne

Ships: AmaDolce

Follow wine's journey from countryside to cask as you tour centuries-old vineyards and taste Bordeaux's finest vintages throughout your river cruise experience.

Enjoy the excitement of reserving your river journey with more flexibility! Plan your river cruise now and protect your purchased services by adding our enhanced Travel Waiver Plus .

From our heritage to our innovations, included amenities and unparalleled service, discover why the best way to travel through Europe, Asia, Africa and South America is with AmaWaterways, the Heart of the River™.

Special savings and promotions are available on select sailings! See how you can save and contact your travel advisor to receive the greatest value on your river cruise vacation.

Reserve a Combination River Cruise and save an additional 10% on subsequent sailings.

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15 Reasons River Cruises Are Perfect For Retirees

Y our elegantly appointed stateroom with full sliding doors opening to a French balcony with an ever-changing scenic slideshow is your home for the next 7, 10, 14, or more days. First, you are compelled to open the slider and enjoy your view — even if it is the dock side — imagining all the panoramic landscapes you will encounter along your journey.

You unpack the suitcase that has magically appeared in your stateroom, organizing clothes into drawers and closets tucked into every nook and cranny. As you read the daily shipboard newspaper filled with activities, you already know why river cruises are perfect for retirees.

1. Unpack Once

No one loves living out of a suitcase; it gets tiresome quickly. Additionally, space is at a premium in a stateroom — no room for a bulky suitcase. Take a few minutes to unpack and tuck away your luggage. Your cabin will stay tidy and comfortable, your clothes will be neatly folded or hung, and you can turn your attention to more important tasks like having the time of your life.

2. Eliminate Transportation Woes

When you book your airfare and airport transfers as part of the cruise package, the cruise line becomes responsible for any hiccups. Traveling always comes with a bit of the unknown, and it is comforting to know you have a team to work out any kinks that arise.

Once on the ship, your ship-booked excursions include transportation. If you book with an outside vendor, you will need to make certain you are back in plenty of time for the all-aboard call.

3. Excursions For All Abilities

Most cruise lines offer excursions with a variety of exertion levels. They still offer the guided bus tour where you only get off for photos and maybe a short walk. However, many now include bike tours, hiking, and outings geared to a more athletic traveler.

For example, on Viking’s Grand European Tour , the excursions in Cologne include a Cologne Walking Tour (moderate), Cologne by Bicycle (active), and Cologne’s Beer Culture & Dinner (easy). This variety of activity levels allows you to go at your own pace and offers appropriate options for all guests. Most ports of call offer at least one excursion for the gentle traveler.

4. Locally Guided Tours

Cruise lines love repeat customers, and word of mouth is their best marketing tool, so they hire the best local tour guides to lead their excursions. Local guides bring a personal perspective to the local culture, history, and traditions.

When you only have a brief time in a location, touring with a local guide is the best way to absorb area highlights. Local guides are also terrific referral resources when you have time to explore on your own.

5. Enjoy Regional Cuisine

Cruising and delicious food go hand-in-hand. The main dining room typically offers one or two dishes inspired by the local cuisine. As you travel through Regensburg , Germany, perhaps you will find traditional German sausage and sauerkraut on the menu. This allows you to sample regional dishes without having to scout out the perfect restaurant.

If you are a foodie, be sure to check on the onboard cooking lessons and food-focused excursions offered on your voyage.

6. Fun Onboard Activities

When river cruising, you usually don’t have too many “at sea” days; there is typically a port of call each day. However, while sailing, you will find plenty of activities to keep you busy. Of course, there is the pool, gym, and the ubiquitous bar. But also there are intellectual talks, demonstrations, wine tastings, card games, and on some ships, a casino.

You can always find a comfy chair with a view and simply watch the world float by.

7. Sample A Variety Of Cruises

There is a river cruise for everyone. The variety in the type of cruise may be just as important as the location of the cruise. Themed cruises like history, art, wine , knitting, cycling, and Christmas markets are just a few. Learn more about your favorite retiree pastime or immerse yourself in a new adventure.

Retirees are flocking to river cruises to enjoy the amenities, port stops, cultural immersion, and meeting new friends with similar interests. It is the perfect getaway for seniors who want to explore the world one port at a time.

8. Score Last-Minute Deals

As retirees, we have plenty of free time. Last-minute cruise deals are appealingly budget-friendly. If you have a trusted travel agent, and you should use one to book your cruise, they are a good source of last-minute deals. Also, when you sign up for the cruise lines newsletter they will inundate you with cruise information — including any last-minute deals.

Hopping on an all-inclusive cruise at the last minute requires little or no planning. Simply book it and show up — it’s the best way to travel.

9. Bookended Adventures

You can book a getaway extension on the front and/or back end of your cruise in cities offered by the cruise line. They will take care of your transportation, hotel, and often a “get-acquainted city tour.” Additionally, a cruise director is onsite at the hotel for guidance and assistance. It’s like having your own concierge.

Many cruise lines offer different cities for pre and post-embarkation stops for cruises along the same route. For example, Prague is a pre/post stay for the Danube River Cruise, and requires a good bus ride to reach the embarkation city. The pre/post stays are a nice way to explore destinations more in-depth.

10. Smooth Sailing

Guests on river cruises are less likely to suffer from seasickness. The rivers are calmer than the open seas, so the ship rocks less. Most of the sailing is overnight and the gentle rocking has more of a soothing effect than the rocking of rough waters.

11. Small Ships Equals Personalized Service

The guest-to-staff ratios on river cruises tend to be almost one guest to one staff or two guests to one staff, though it varies by cruise line. The ratio is conducive to smaller crowds and is more favorable than the larger cruise ships. With more staff tending to guests along with the low guest capacity (around 250 passengers), river cruises offer more personalized service.

You become very familiar with your cabin steward, server, and cruise director. They get to know you quickly and can attend to any special needs or requests.

12. Ports Are Close To The City

Cruise ships are small and can dock close to the city center. They fit into port slips much easier than larger cruise ships that may have to dock out of port. This allows guests gangway access to the port city or the excursion transportation. Very seldom does a river cruise require tenders for disembarkation.

13. Easy Mobility Access

The smaller ships, fewer people, and personalized service make access easier for guests with mobility issues. The ships are smaller to navigate, typically dock in the port or old port area, and guest services are more attuned to a particular guest’s needs.

You will encounter many guests requiring varying levels of access.

14. Solo Travel Friendly

Solo travel is becoming extremely popular. Long gone are the days when singles had to find a travel buddy before they embarked on an adventurous journey.

Many cruise companies offer decreased single supplements — some charging no additional fee. You will find singles meet-ups and many guests going solo on excursions even if they are traveling with a companion. As a solo traveler, you can have as much or as little alone time as you desire.

15. Language Immersion

If you are looking for a unique language experience, book a trip on one of the cruise lines offered in a language other than English. French Waterways offers luxurious cruises where the staff speaks French and English. Immerse yourself in the country you are visiting — the scenery, gastronomy, and language — for a cultural experience you won’t soon forget.

Top River Cruise Lines

Below is the list of Travel Awaits Best Of Travel 2022 Favorite River Cruise Lines . Recommendations by fellow river cruisers are always a great place to start.

• AmaWaterways
• American Cruise Lines
• American Queen Voyages
• Aqua Expeditions
• Avalon Waterways
• Grand Circle Cruise Line
• Scenic Cruises
• Tauck River Cruises
• Uniworld Boutique River Cruises
• Vantage Cruise Line

River Cruises Are A Wonderful Travel Option

River cruises are one of my favorite ways to travel. Waking up to beautiful fjords, ancient port cities, and bustling harbor views starts the day off full of promise with a peek at what lies ahead. As retirees, we have the luxury of time; river cruising is one of the best ways to enjoy relaxed travel. Bon Voyage!

For more on river cruises , explore these articles:

• 11 Reasons Why We Love River Cruises In Europe
• Everything You Need To Know Before Embarking On A Nile River Cruise
• AmaWaterways Vs. Avalon Waterways River Cruises: 8 Key Differences