excursion ford 6.0 motor

FORD 6.0L ENGINE FOR SALE

Fits ford 6.0l diesel (excursion, f-250, f-350, f-450, f-550, superduty) vehicles (2003 - 2006).

Warranty: 1 Year / Unlimited Miles, Parts & Labor Part No. FEF60D-HD

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Shipping the engine to you and us picking your core up

• TOTAL $5575.00 + Core + Shipping

Why Choose Fraser Advantage Over Standard Rebuilds?

When it comes to revitalizing your engine, the choice between a standard rebuild and the Fraser Advantage is the choice between ordinary and extraordinary. Here’s why you should elevate your driving experience with Fraser Advantage:

Precision Redefined:

• Fraser Advantage goes beyond industry standards, providing precision machining with tolerances as fine as .0001 of an inch. Your engine isn’t just rebuilt; it’s meticulously crafted to perfection, ensuring optimal performance.

Enhanced Durability:

• The Fraser Advantage includes decking of cylinder head(s) and block for optimal straightness, coupled with line boring and honing of crankshaft/camshaft tunnels. These enhancements reinforce critical components, providing durability that outlasts the ordinary.

Exclusive Valve Optimization:

• Cutting valve seats and valves to the proper degree is a Fraser Advantage exclusive. This precision work ensures superior valve functionality, setting your engine apart from the limitations of standard rebuilds.

Premium Component Selection:

• Fraser Advantage doesn’t compromise on quality. Enjoy the benefits of a ground and polished crankshaft, new or remanufactured camshaft(s), and a comprehensive replacement of main bearings, rod bearings, pistons, piston rings, lifters, pushrods, timing components, oil pump, and head bolts.

Comprehensive Gasket Overhaul:

• While standard rebuilds may offer basic gasket replacements, Fraser Advantage provides a complete internal gasket and seal overhaul. Every detail is considered, ensuring a comprehensive solution to keep your engine running seamlessly.

Tailored Finishing:

• Fraser Advantage ensures a hassle-free installation with finishing gaskets tailored to your specific application. This attention to detail completes the rebuild, providing a level of craftsmanship that transcends the ordinary.

In essence, Fraser Advantage is not just a rebuild; it’s a transformation. It’s a commitment to excellence, precision, and durability that goes beyond the standard. Choose Fraser Advantage for an engine that doesn’t just run – it roars with power, reliability, and an unrivaled level of craftsmanship. Elevate your driving experience – choose Fraser Advantage.

This remanufactured FORD 6.0L Diesel engine  includes the following enhancements from Fraser Engines:

• Bore and hone all cylinders to OEM clearances (We check all clearances within .0001 of inch),
• Decking cylinder head(s) and block for straightness,
• Cutting valve seats and valves to proper degree,
• Line boring/honing crankshaft/camshaft tunnels,
• Ground & polish crankshaft, new or remanufactured camshaft(s),
• New main bearings, rod bearings, pistons, piston rings, lifters, pushrods (if equipped), timing components, oil pump, head bolts,
• All new internal gaskets and seals.
• All finishing gaskets are included (MAY VARY PER APPLICATION).

FORD 6.0L Diesel Engines

The FORD 6.0L Diesel engine 2003-2006 is a V8 engine designed specifically for Ford Motor Company’s Super Duty trucks.

The base engine consists of:

An iron engine block and aluminum cylinder heads Single Overhead Camshaft (SOHC) Direct injection Turbocharged

The engine specifications include:

• A displacement of 365 cubic inches (6,006 cubic centimeters)
• 3.74 in x 4.13 in (95 mm x 105 mm) cylinder bore and piston stroke
• 18.0:1 compression ratio
• 325 horsepower (242 kW) at 3,300 rpm
• 570 lb-ft (773 Nm) of torque at 2,000 rpm

Ford’s 6.0L Diesel engine was introduced in 2003 and was available in their Super Duty line of trucks. The engine was designed to be more fuel-efficient and more powerful than its predecessor, the 7.3L Powerstroke. The 6.0L Diesel engine features a host of advanced technologies, including a high-pressure oil system, variable-geometry turbocharger, and an exhaust gas recirculation system.

The 6.0L Diesel engine was used in various Ford applications, including the F-250, F-350, F-450, and F-550 Super Duty trucks. It was also used in the Excursion SUV and the E-Series vans. Despite its advanced technologies, the 6.0L Diesel engine was not without its issues, and many owners experienced problems with the engine’s reliability and durability. Ford made several revisions to the engine over its production run in an attempt to address these issues.

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IF YOU DON’T SEE YOUR VEHICLE – CALL FRASER SALES

1 Year / Unlimited Miles, Parts & Labor

Use conventional or break-in oil (non-synthetic) for the first 600 miles of operation. Do not drive for long periods at any single speed, always vary your speed. Do not tow a trailer or put other heavy loads on the vehicle. Check the engine oil and coolant levels daily. 

At 600 Miles change the engine oil and filter using conventional (non-synthetic) oil. Check fuel and ignition settings; adjust valves (where applicable).

After the first 5,000 of service synthetic engine oil may be used. Follow your vehicle owner’s manual for service intervals.

By submitting this form, you allow Fraser Engine Rebuilders, Inc to continue this request via text, email, or phone.

2000 - 2005 Excursion 6.0L

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2005 Ford Excursion Specifications

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The Ultimate Guide to The 6.0-Liter Power Stroke Diesel in 2003-08 Super Duty Ford Trucks

The most generous way to describe Ford’s 6.0-liter “Power Stroke” V8 in its Super Duty trucks is as a necessary misstep in the evolution of Ford’s diesel engines. This engine incorporated multiple technologies that Ford simply couldn’t build reliably at the price point of a heavy-duty truck back in 2003. Tuning a 6.0-liter Power Stroke for a higher output can cause even more problems. But if you already have a 6.0, don’t fear: diesel truck enthusiasts are a resourceful bunch, and there are a few ways you can modify this Ford F-250 with a Power Stroke engine to improve reliability.

Is the 6.0 Power Stroke a good engine?

No. This diesel V8 objectively has more issues than similar engines from Chevy or Dodge. Before and after the 6.0-liter Power Stroke, Ford built other diesel engines that are probably a better choice for you. Consider the 7.3-liter Power Stroke (2003 and earlier) for better mpg or the 6.7-liter (2010 and later) for a reliable engine that will pollute less smog gas.

You can divide the problems with the 6.0-liter Power Stroke diesel V8 into two categories. Most problems affect stock engines. But some issues haunt Power Stroke owners who attempt to modify their 6.0 to increase its power. We’ll go into detail on both sets of problems and the best way to prevent them.

What year did Ford go to the 6.0 Power Stroke?

Ford swapped from a 7.3-liter diesel V8 built by International Harvester to the 6.0-liter Power Stroke halfway through the 2003 model year to meet new emissions regulations.

One little-known fact about the 6.0-liter V8 was that it was built by International Harvester. Ford first introduced an International-built diesel V8 in its 1983 Super Duty pickup trucks. But by 2003, it had shifted from branding these engines as “Internationals” to using the Ford Power Stroke name. You could also buy an industrial version of the 6.0 from International called the VT365.

International tuned its VT365 for reliability at the cost of power. But to compete with Dodge and Chevy’s diesels, Ford turned up the engine’s output to 325 horsepower and 570 lb-ft. Some claim this is the root of the 6.0’s problems. But the VT365 had plenty of issues of its own.

The VT365 (and the 6.0-liter Ford Power Stroke) struggled with oil-delivery problems. Debris or deteriorating sub-par O-rings can destroy either of its oil pumps (both a low and high-pressure unit). And when the finicky high-pressure pump malfunctions, it in turn can destroy expensive fuel injectors.

What are the worst 6.0-liter Ford Power Stroke problems?

Problems that plague stock 6.0-liter Power Stroke engines include oil delivery issues, EGR cooler and valve failure, turbocharger wear, and fuel injector controller module (FICM) malfunctions. Coolant and oil can also contaminate one another due to one of several possible issues.

As a result, diesel Super Duty trucks from 2003.5 through 2008 have a low resale value. Here’s an example, the 2004 with just 35k miles (pictured above) sold for $23.5k on Cars & Bids . Another 2004 with 50k miles couldn’t even sell for $17k.

6.0-liter Power Stroke EGR issues

The International and Ford versions of this 6.0-liter diesel V8 suffered oil delivery issues. But Ford also had to add an improved Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system for emissions reasons. Upgrading this emissions-regulation-driven technology was one of the main reasons Ford swapped from the 7.3 to the 6.0. But the new system was simply not reliable.

The EGR system takes exhaust gas and recirculates it through the engine to burn off any carbon. This theoretically improves both emissions and fuel efficiency, which should be a win-win. But exhaust gas is very hot, so the system needs to cool it using the engine’s coolant system. Then it needs to release a precisely measured amount into the intake manifold, mixing it with fresh air.

The 6.0-liter had problems with every step of this process. Exhaust gas is sooty, and carbon buildups can clog both the EGR cooler and the EGR valves. A failed EGR cooler can be one of several issues that causes coolant contamination. Some 6.0 owners install a better EGR system. Others throw up their hands and delete the system, which is an illegal modification. Modern Ford diesels have a much more reliable EGR system.

Ford 6.0-liter Power Stroke turbocharger issues

With its 6.0-liter Power Stroke V8, Ford pioneered an adaptive turbocharger. This technology uses a series of moving blades to control the amount of exhaust gas flowing into the turbocharger. This varies the speed of the turbocharger and how much it compresses the air flowing into the engine.

This is another technology that is now common, but Ford was unable to build both cheaply and reliably in 2003. Sooty diesel exhaust can gunk up the moving blades in the 6.0-liter Power Stroke’s turbocharger intake. When these blades get stuck open or closed it can make a 6.0 nearly undrivable.

The 6.0-liter Power Stroke’s fuel injector controller (FICM) can fail

Many 6.0-liter Power Stroke issues are due to necessary tradeoffs: Ford attempted to build an efficient engine with cutting-edge technology at a low price point. But the common failure of the 6.0’s fuel injector control module (FICM) was, sadly, preventable.

The engine’s fuel injector system is controlled by a FICM, which Ford mounted to the top of the engine, right next to the turbocharger. The turbocharger, predictably, throws a lot of heat. This can cause the FICM to fail early. When the module fails, it can sometimes destroy expensive injectors. But usually, the truck just stops running until everything cools down–according to Vehicle Service Pros .

This specific control module can also fail or break permanently when the battery gets too low. This is another preventable issue that Ford corrected on later engines.

What is the gas mileage on a 6.0 Power Stroke?

One of the most tragic aspects of the completely redesigned 6.0-liter Power Stroke is that it didn’t improve on the outgoing 7.3-liter V8’s fuel mileage. In fact, the 7.3 can get up to 20 mpg while cruising on the highway. But the 6.0 will likely never do better than 17 or 18 mpg.

Why is that? Many of the modifications Ford made to its diesel engines for 2003 were not designed for power or efficiency but to reduce the emissions of a smog-causing gas named nitrogen oxides (NOx), which the EPA cracked down on in 2003.

When did they stop making 6.0 Power Stroke?

So many Ford truck buyers complained about the 6.0-liter Power Stroke that the automaker pivoted away from the engine in just 4.5 years. By the 2008 model year, Ford began to offer its Super Duty trucks with an all-new 6.4-liter Power Stroke diesel V8 instead.

While Ford did correct some of the 6.0’s issues with its 6.4-liter engine, many Ford diesel fans prefer the 6.7-liter version of the legendary Power Stroke diesel engine introduced in 2010. The 6.7-liter received a fraction of the complaints that both the 6.0 and the 6.4 were subject to. The 6.4 and 6.7 improved on the 6.0’s power output numbers while continuing to meet modern emissions regulations.

Because of the way diesel fuel combusts, diesel engine designers need to make some tradeoffs between power, mpg, and NOx emissions. This is why pre-2003 diesel trucks get better mpg than later trucks. By the early 2010s, most manufacturers could build reliable diesel engines with better mpg while meeting the stricter NOx regulations. But the 6.0-liter Power Stroke came during the darkest age of diesel.

Can you tune a 6.0-liter Power Stroke?

This is probably a bad idea. Not only will you exacerbate every other reliability issue the 6.0-liter Power Stroke is known for, but you will create new issues. Namely, the reduced number of head bolts holding the 6.0-liter engine together is insufficient to keep the head gasket from leaking if you increase the power. To be blunt, Ford already tuned an International Harvester engine to create the 6.0 and pushed the diesel V8 to its limits.

Though you probably don’t want to increase a 6.0-liter Power Stroke’s output, you may be able to modify it for reliability. But first, you’ll want to keep up with the engine’s maintenance. Driving Line recommends swapping both fuel filters every 15,000 miles. It also suggests oil changes every 5,000 miles and using the highest quality replacement oil available. High mileage 6.0-liter Power Strokes should also have their antifreeze coolant flushed every 45,000 miles. Because a worn battery can destroy the FICM, you’ll also need to keep the truck’s two batteries fairly new. Finally, you’ll want to have the EGR system’s valve cleaned and inspected every 20,000 miles.

Note that all the problems caused by exhaust soot (namely EGR cooler failure, EGR valve failure, and turbocharger blade fouling) are worse on trucks that idle a lot. If you must leave your 6.0 idling for hours, you’ll want to inspect these components more often.

One reliability modification is Ford’s “blue spring kit” (PN 3C3Z-9T517-AG) which increases the fuel’s pressure at the injectors by 10-15 PSI and may help the injectors last longer. Many 6.0-liter Power Stroke owners also install an aftermarket coolant filter. Others swap out the engine’s entire EGR system for a beefier aftermarket one. Many 6.0-liter fans swear by an aftermarket coolant additive to prevent the liquid from doing what’s called “cavitating.” And 6.0-tuners who do increase the power often upgrade the head bolts to head studs first.

Next, read about the best truck engines ever made or learn more about the 6.0-liter Powerstroke’s problems in the video below:

Will You Actually Get Caught for Filling Your Truck With Off Road Diesel?

Who Killed The Half-Ton Diesel Pickup Truck?

Yes, Cummins Makes a 1,000 Horsepower Engine for the Army—and It’s a 4 Cylinder

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Henry Cesari

Henry Cesari joined MotorBiscuit in 2021 and brings his deep interest in vintage cars, trucks, and motorcycles to the site. Having restored his first classic car at just 16 years old, Henry has wrenched on everything from overland campers to Japanese motorcycles and even pre-war Bugattis. Henry is also an avid attendee at local car shows and genuinely enjoys connecting with fellow auto enthusiasts.

Henry earned a Bachelor’s in Anthropology and English from the University of Vermont. He has since incorporated his love of the written word with his admiration of classic cars. While Henry is interested in vintage cars, he believes the golden age of cars is yet to come. He is confident journalists will play an important role in this revolution by exposing the industry as it is now and envisioning its possible future.

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2005 Ford Excursion trims (22)

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Just One More Thing…

Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Engine Specs, Problems & Reliability

Ford introduced a newer, more powerful 6.0-liter V8 turbo diesel engine in the second quarter of the 2003 model year. One year later, the 6.0L version completely replaced the time-tested 7.3L Power Stroke, considered one of the best Power Stroke engine. The 6.0L engine was the best way to meet lower NOx (Nitrogen Oxide) emissions standards and even stricter demands in future, thanks to EGR, a variable geometry turbocharger, and more efficient fuel injection system.

The 6.0 Power Stroke has a cast-iron cylinder block with a crankcase bed plate (no main caps) for superb bottom-end strength. Its oil cooler and the high-pressure oil pump are integrated into the engine block. Like the 7.3 diesel, the 6.0 has powdered-metal connecting rods and cast-aluminum pistons. Connecting rods are very strong and durable, known to handle 700rwhp and 1,200-1,300 lb-ft of torque. At the rear of the engine, there is the gear train for the crankshaft, camshaft and high-pressure oil pump.

The engine got cast-iron, high-flow cylinder heads with four valves per cylinder (16 intake valves and 16 exhaust valves; 32 valves total). Cylinder heads are attached to the block using just four TTY head bolts per cylinder. Bolts are 14 mm in diameter. The diameter of the intake valves is 33.8 mm (1.33 in), of exhaust valves - 28.0 mm (1.10 in). The cylinder head has two separate intake runners per cylinder. The valves were placed in a "twisted" position helping introduce swirl into the combustion chamber. Each head has an aluminum rocker box mounted to the top.

The 6.0 Power stroke engine features an HEUI (Hydraulically Actuated Electronically Controlled Unit Injection). The fuel injection timing and fuel pressure are controlled by high-pressure oil and electronics. The HEUI system consists of the PCM (Powertrain Control Module), IDM (Injector Driver Module), the swash-plate style high-pressure oil pump (HPOP), IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator), and Siemens injectors. The HPOP is located under the HPOP cover and turbocharger at the rear of the engine. The Split-shot HEUI fuel injection system allows the 6.0 PowerStroke to produce higher injection pressures throughout the entire operating range (in-cylinder fuel injection pressure can reach 26,000 psi).

The 6.0L engine was the first in Power Stroke family equipped with single variable geometry turbocharger (VGT). It utilizes the Garrett GT3782VA turbocharger with electronically controlled and hydraulically actuated vanes and 58mm compressor wheel. A charged air goes through an air-to-air intercooler. This quick-spooling turbocharger provides quick throttle response.

The 6.0L Power Stroke proved to be less reliable than its 7.3L predecessor and was replaced in 2008 by a more powerful, durable, and emissions friendly 6.4L Power Stroke .

Engine Specs

6.0 power stroke engine problems and reliability.

The 6.0L Power Stroke has a poor reputation in terms of reliability and durability. In the first place in the list of problems are EGR-related issues: cracked EGR coolers and failed EGR valves. The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system is sources of the main issues with the 6.0L Power Stroke. Aluminum tubes that go to the oil cooler have the tendency to crack from temperature changes. These cracks usually result in oil pushing its way into the cooling system and forming high-viscosity coolant due to the mixture with oil. That leads to cracking of the EGR cooler's coolant passages and leaking coolant into the intake system. This usually appears as white smoke from the exhaust pipe. Also, the EGR valve is often coated with soot and stuck in the open/closed position. A gummed up EGR valve is usually caused by long engine runs at idle or low speeds.

The coolant in the intake increases cylinder pressure due to a steam build-up, leading to stretching of the Torque to Yield (TTY) head bolts. That is the reason for the second common problem with the 6.0L - head gasket failures. 4 torque to yield head bolts per cylinder is simply not enough to prevent the engine from blown head gaskets. There are some aftermarket solutions for replacing the factory bolts with head studs, but studs increase the risk of cracks or deformation of the cylinder head.

There are a few more well-known problems on the list: injection system issues related to bad injectors, air leaks, O-rings on stand pipes, ICP and IPR sensor failures, and FICM failures; HPOP's problems; VGT turbocharger is prone to sticking open or closed; cylinder heads are known to crack.

7.3L's reliability is not what should be expected from the 6.0 Power Stroke engine, but horsepower, drivability, and meeting modern-day emissions standards.

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Used 2005 Ford Excursion Diesel - Specs & Features

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2003 EXCURSION 6.0 Good or Bad?

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Please help! We just bought an 03 Ford X with a 6.0. This is our first Ford and first diesel. Now we are hearing that we possibly made a mistake. It has 80,000 miles and the history shows the main problem with this rig has been the egt valves. No other major problems. Should we return it? We have a 10 day trial exchange. Do any of you have one? Tell me the good and the bad, Please!  

I don’t have any personal experience with the 6.0 but my buddy had head gasket issues with his. Ford ended up replacing the head bolts with studs. However, it was my understanding that everything was covered under the warranty. If it were me I would at least research the extended 7 year 200,000 mile warranty that is being offered right now. This link will help you in your research about the warranty. http://forums.thedieselstop.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1436211&fpart=1  

Rob- Although I have not owned a 2003 or later Excursion with the 6.0, I have several friends that have. All have gone back to the 7.3 equipped Excursions (2 of the 3 found early '03's with the 7.3). There were a lot of problems with the '03's with 6.0 especially, and some wound up being returned under lemon laws. I have a good friend that owns a succesful large late-model used truck-only dealership just a few miles from my home, and he always has an Ex or 2 on his lot, but never a 6.0. He looks for the best low mileage 7.3's only, and if a 6.0 is traded in, he sends it to auction rather than retailing it. I know there are a lot of folks including those on this forum that swear by them, but I am on my 2nd Excursion with the 7.3, and it has been as trouble-free as the first. If I were in your shoes, I would be VERY patient in a search for a low mileage 7.3 Limited Ultimate from either late '02 or '03 (southern states/Texas) and return the one you have. The 7.3 is well proven and reliable and I would have a hard time going to something that has had a questionable reputation at best. If you must have a newer one, at least get into a late '04 or '05 since most of the 6.0 bugs had been worked out by that time. Just my 2 cents, of course. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif Jim  

Yes, I have one and I love it. I have just under 118K miles on mine now and I have had no real significant problems. I was concerned based on some of what I had read here, but I had a friend at Ford pull an OASIS report that showed no problems in the first 65k miles (which is when I bought it). My wife and I use it for our 2500 mile round trips to Florida and back several times a year and I use if for pulling my enclosed car trailer (10,000+lbs loaded). When not pulling and if I am easy on the throttle, I can get 20+ MPG but normal is between 16 and 18. Pulling the big trailer I get 12 to 14. I have made no modifications to my engine, nor do I plan to, it works great for me the way it is. It seems alot of people like the 7.3 because of the number of ways it can be modified.  

I had an 03 6.0L and traded it in with 73,000 trouble free miles for my current 05 6.0L. There were a lot of injector issues with the early 03 engines due to the injectors being installed improperly. That issue is behind your X. If they were put in bad they would have acted up long ago. The EGR valve gets dirty on all engines with one. With ULSD it will be less of an issue. However, a repeated replacement of the EGR valve most likely is telling you the EGR cooler maybe leaking. All of this is covered by 100K warranty. If you are going to keep it a long time look at the 200K warranty. There is a thread on the main 6.0L power train page. RoyC  

I also have a 2003 6.0L Excursion, however with only about 60,000 miles on it. It has been a great truck with only the EGR and harness being replaced under warranty. Everyone has stories, but there are a lot of 6.0Ls out there without problems also. Truck is great for hauling family, baseball team, boat, etc. It has been a great truck. My only issue with it, is it sometimes too big as I use it as a daily driver also.  

I sold my 2003 6.0 Excursion a month ago and it was perfect the four years or so I had it. I also had a 2000 7.3 Excursion before it but the 6.0 would blow the doors off of it. The 7.3 with 4-speed AT was a slug compared to the 6.0 with 5-speed Torqshift.  

Thank you very much for your replies!! We are still taking everyone's opinions and will make our decision in a couple of days. So far we love the rig and it will be hard to give it back!! We welome any other comments you may have. Thanks! Rob  

Don't listen to the few with problems that fill up these forums with there complaining. Most of them put chips and over fuel these with flash devices. Very few have problems not related to modifications this late. These engines like to work so load it from time to time and you will be fine. Buy a used one that has not been modified. Stay away from the ads that say a tuner or chip is included or has been used. Good luck!  

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Ford Excursion 4x4 6.0L V8 Diesel specs

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• General 6.0L Discussion

Just Bought a 6.0 Excursion... now what?

• Add to quote
• SCT upgrades (any way tossed if this was done already without pulling it apart?)
• Stand pipe and dummy plugs (assuming not done)
• Regulated fuel return (no bowl delete for now)
• Upgraded FICUM
• Bullet proof water pump
• Upgraded electric fan clutch
• Fuel/egr probes and real monitor (unless you have good probe recommendations that work with torque)
• If miles and budget allows switch to a full 2008-16 interior swap
• Thennnnnnnn oil cooler and Upgraded egr
• 6.4 starter
• Bigger coolant and trans radiator
• Studs and gaskets

Not sure what you mean about an interior swap since the Excursion was discontinued during the 6.0 run. There is no such thing as an 08 Excursion to swap to. Are you just talking a dash swap? Otherwise you look like you have researched it well and have a good list to start with. As far as #11 goes I believe the radiator and trans cooler on the 6.0 is pretty good. Most people don't go away from OEM on that aspect especially if all you are doing is driving it on the highway. Are these going to be towing miles or just family hauling?  

bismic said: No mention of what kind of coolant is in it ....... What SCT upgrades are you referring to? What are fuel/egr probes? 6.4L banjo bolts don't really help anything. Click to expand...

No mention of what kind of coolant is in it ....... What SCT upgrades are you referring to? What are fuel/egr probes? 6.4L banjo bolts don't really help anything.  

Gotcha on STC fitting and on EGT probe, and fuel pressure sensor/gauge. Ford Gold coolant is bad. It does not hold up to the excessive heat. Some make it work, but it has to be flushed and changed out every 45k miles (max). You will almost certainly keep plugging oil coolers with the Ford Gold (or any GO5 coolant). The coolant that the earlier diesels ran (usually green in color) have to be tested regularly to ensure proper cavitation protection. They do not hold up very well to the higher heat either, but at least the only issue is that they deplete the add-pack more quickly. EC-1 rated ELC coolant is what you want. This is what the Navistar engines run and they do not have the issues with oil coolers like the Ford engines do. I run a heavy tune and have no issue with fuel to the injectors - stock fuel pump and stock fuel lines/fittings. Now if you want to go with bigger injectors, then maybe the 6.4L banjo bolts will offer some help....otherwise, not even 1%.  

Welcome to the org! Please don't take this the wrong way as I only want to help. You're kind of going about this all wrong... and Jumping the gun in many ways. The 6.0l can be made to be a reliable vehicle but if you or the previous owner didn't do things right the first time the second owner always pays the price. 1-get a monitor to see what the trucks situation is. Your oil/coolant temps could be very bad negating the "new oil cooler" right off the get go OR they could be fine... 2- You have a lot to learn not being rude but just the facts of 6.0l ownership. You need to research and fully understand what each sensor tells you and what things to watch out for with the IPR, FICM, coolant/oil temps, and more. That way when things go south not IF but WHEN you are not stressed out of your mind and you can formulate a plan to save time, stress and MONEY. 3-Coolant is a double edged sword. If you have ford gold or godforbid regular green you can open a can of worms trying to clean it out, Many myself inlcuded did not flush the system thoroughly enough the first time and even back-flushing the oil cooler wasnt enough. So changing the coolant right away could cost you another oil and egr cooler right off the bat without being prepared. 4-skip the interior swap. its not near as simple as just splicing a few wire connectors. The excursion can't have a true swap anyways because of everything BEHIND the front seats. You would do well to learn, learn, learn and be prepared as you can. 4-skip the regulated return you need to check your fuel pressure first to see if you even have an issue many run larger injectors and tunes with stock fuel system and the stock intake successfully and not hurt performance at all. You don't know if the truck was studded right from the previous owner NO MATTER WHAT THEY SAY... Its poped up on her a thousand time over people buy a studded truck only to have issues 6 months later. I don't mean to sucker punch your dreams but its a fact the 6.0l CAN BE A RELIABLE set up but you have to do your research and many thins have to be done right the first time or you're paying for someone else's cheap budget.  

I wonder if the oil cooler that the PO installed was even an OEM oil cooler. If they went cheap on it, it could be a big issue. +1 on the above concern over the current state of the oil cooler and the need to do the flush properly if you are going to change coolant types.  

Welcome to the Excursion realm...not a single regret for me yet! It can be disheartening reading some of these "hard truth" posts, but you can look at both @JustinOOO9 and @bismic post count and know you are getting THOROUGHLY researched responses. And lucky you for drawing in these 6.0 gurus on your first post! Keep the excitement and just immerse yourself here, that's what I did, and you'll get your rig proper reliable. Just be prepared for a long journey...once you get bit, it just keeps going... My 2 cents would be to check/upgrade the electrical system. I had recycled batteries from previous owner that cost me a FICM and 4 injectors. Upgrading the wiring system is fairly cheap, easy, and gives you great piece of mind ( @TooManyToys has great youtube videos on this). I upgraded the battery cables, ground/frame contacts, and my alternator. Cheers  

Thanks all for the feedback so far. First and foremost @JustinOOO9 thank you for being frank. I dont find any of this offensive, I know what I don't know and that's a lot when it comes to 6.0 and the Diesel world in general. im "book smart" on it but know that that can be a far breath from the real world so thank you for your input. @bismic , I didnt realize the coolant world was so vast and will take a look at your recommendations as well as the proper way to flush it if needed. I am out of town so cant check what it has now, but i know the previous owner had it flushed when the EGR, oil cooler was done (line item on the bill). However if its gold and should be changed at 45k miles ill just plan do switch to something recommended and more robust at say 25k . I am a big fan of preventative maintenance and is a cheap way to get some wrenching joy and spot issues. I have a basic monitor in the form of Torque pro on a dedicated tablet on the windshield, it appears to be doing just fine for now as i have no desire to run any tunes until i have lived with the truck for a little. is this acceptable as a monitoring tool? right now i have oil temps, coolant temps, deltas (with alarms), FICUM voltage (with alarms), FICUM sync, fan speed, HPOP, oil pressure, and IPR. i have gotten a basic idea off youtube from people like diesel tech rob. is there another parameter i should add? it sounds like i should look not into preventive upgrades, but to fix as they start to fail is that correct? i have a "slush fund" set aside to cover most surprise issues that may pop up while on the road, i am just aiming to using that money while im in town and not when im trying to get somewhere. i understand that a chain will always have a weakest link im just trying to make that link still really strong. the truck has not been studded and i dont think ill do that until i actually need too or until i have nothing else to do. i have no plans to beat the snot out of this think, although i understand the TTY bolts can lift a head even under stock conditions. the only tune im interested in is a fuel economy one, but again that will wait till ive lived with the truck for awhile. my reason for the fuel return was i read it keeps the rear injectors healthier longer, is that not the case? i know i need to keep fuel pressure high, i was planning to leave most of the system stock and just do the blue spring if its not been done already. also should a start using that stictsion additive? and if so how often? thanks for the help and time to educate me!  

You're off to a great start I only have two more suggestions. Firstly if I were in your situation...Skip the ECM tune. Mostly because a "fuel economy" tune will not do squatt just the way the trucks tuning works.You're driving style will have a bigger affect and thats free lol. But the 6.0ls have a SECOND way in the form of tuning that actually will help fuel economy but its 1mpg max in most cases. I have a road trip thats about 980 miles one way that I take 3 times a year and I logged it meticulously to the point i stop at the same gas stations and hotel and near same time of year so its very accurate. I got about .75 to 1mpg boost using the stock ecm tune and the atlas 40 FICM tune. The FICM has the ability to be reprogrammed and is stand alone from the ECM. You do have to watch egts is you plan to tow heavy but thats like 8k/lbs or running a high performance tune. The ficm tune will help A TINY with performance but ironically helps fuel economy and only the 6.0ls have a FICM lol. Look into a ficm tuner as its a built in monitor and ficm tuner all in one. secondly the coolant is simple but i'll break it down even more. 1- the 6.0l came with ford gold premium and can't handle the heat and pressure long term. It forms gell that combined with left over casting sand cloggs the coolant pasages of the oil cooler causing high oil temps and since the egr cooler is down stream the coolant doesn't reach it at full flow and caused ruptures. Some can make the ford gold work with drain and refills at 30-40k average but why waste the money and risk gell? 2- some people thought i'll run the regular green like the 7.3ls just dont do it lol... The green can't handle th heat and pressure but because it also doesn't have the SCA addittive like ford gold it causes cavitation damage. 3- and what 90% of most true 6.0l owners switch to is a red ELC. NOT ALL ELCs are the same though. The three most popular, widely available and correctly is Zerex, Caterpillar, and Rotella. All available at Napa, tractor supply and other auto stores. Autozone and O'riley are a mix and most likley have to order. Stick with those three brands for simplistic ownership. As many Long life (LL and ELC)s are not true ELCs but its stupid lol.  

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