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‘An unforgettable rail journey’: my night on the Istanbul-Sofia Express

The overnight service from Turkey to Bulgaria started running again this year and was voted one of the world’s best journeys for 2023 by Lonely Planet

Last week Lonely Planet’s annual Best in Travel list included the Istanbul-Sofia Express as an essential journey for 2023.

The overnight service restarted in April this year, after being suspended in early 2020. When introduced in 2017, it was a successor of older night-train services, including several incarnations using variants of the name Orient Express. I boarded one of the speedy suburban trains at Sirkeciin Istanbul’s Eminönü quarter, heading out of the city to Halkalı, an unassuming commuter station that’s now the starting point of this night train.

Leaving Istanbul from here is akin to first travelling from Euston to Watford Junction to board the Caledonian Sleeper: it’s a modern, functional station, though not much to look at. Once at Halkalı, the night’s pre-departure ceremony was getting under way. Shouts of “Sofia!” from station staff summoned passengers from an uncomfortably warm waiting room through a luggage X-ray machine and then on to the platform. I was directed to my 1990s-era sleeper compartment by the train manager. Home for the night came air-conditioned, with a power socket but no wifi and, unusually, a fridge stocked with water and a few snacks.

Leaving on time at 8.45pm, we rattled along the single-track line through the darkness. Somewhere along the way, I dozed off. Close to 1am we approached Edirne, with the Selimiye mosque lighting up the cityscape. Leaving Edirne, the train manager suddenly became unpopular, knocking on doors with a brisk “Control!”. It was the cue to get up and get in a slowly shuffling passport queue at Kapıkule on the Turkish-Bulgarian border. There were a few hundred passengers on the platform, most still half asleep. Waiting for that passport stamp was the perfect chance to meet fellow passengers. We were crossing the EU’s busiest land frontier, and it was becoming apparent to all that taking this sleeper does not guarantee a restful night. Snacks and smokes were offered around, and stories were shared.

It took about an hour to get everyone through the queue and back on board. Leaving Turkey, the train crawled through openings in barbed-wire fences and into Bulgaria, where another set of border guards took away everyone’s passport for an hour or so. I didn’t sleep until mine was returned. The barbed wire and guards in observation towers weren’t for those of us on this train, but they were for someone.

The rest of the journey felt dream-like, partly because of the interrupted night inducing a slightly dozy sense of where we were. At breakfast, we arrived in Plovdiv , famed for its Roman theatre and well-preserved 19th-century wooden buildings. It is an excellent place to stop over. The final haul over the mountains to Sofia was done in daylight, offering views of rocky hills and forested streams.

There was no on-board food service – passengers should buy a packed breakfast on their way out of Istanbul – but our enterprising train manager did pass through selling coffee and tea for small change, endearing himself to those he had had to coax out of bed in the night.

At about 9.30am, the train arrived at Sofia’s communist-era railway station and I hopped on the metro into the city centre for brunch. Though signature banitsa pastries are sold everywhere, the city’s food scene has evolved into a varied cafe culture with fine, strong coffee at its heart. A cup of that was very welcome after an unforgettable rail journey between two different cities that offered pause for thought and adventure on parallel tracks, stretching across south-east Europe and beyond. Tom Hall is vice president at Lonely Planet

The Istanbul-Sofia Express runs daily in each direction. It leaves Istanbul’s Halkalı station, a 45-minute journey from the centre, at 8.45pm , scheduled arrival in Sofia is 9.35am but border procedures can cause delays. In the opposite direction it leaves Sofia at 6.30pm and arrives at Halkali at 05.34am. Tickets cannot be bought online. Purchase in advance from Discoverbyrail.com – Tom Hall paid £105 (including Discover By Rail fee) for single occupancy of a sleeper compartment including ticket delivery to his hotel in Istanbul. For two-person occupancy the cost is £57.50pp via Discover By Rail. Tickets can be bought at the international sales desk at Sirkeci where second-class tickets (no couchette or sleeper) cost £16 plus £9 for a couchette, or a sleeper cabin to yourself £55. While it’s cheaper to buy in Istanbul, this runs the risk of the train being sold out, especially in summer.

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Bulgaria Travel Restrictions

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Can I travel to Bulgaria from the United States?

Most visitors from the United States, regardless of vaccination status, can enter Bulgaria.

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Fully vaccinated visitors from the United States can enter Bulgaria without restrictions.

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Unvaccinated visitors from the United States can enter Bulgaria without restrictions.

Do I need a COVID test to enter Bulgaria?

Visitors from the United States are not required to present a negative COVID-19 PCR test or antigen result upon entering Bulgaria.

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Travelers from the United States are not required to quarantine.

Do I need to wear a mask in Bulgaria?

Mask usage in Bulgaria is not required in enclosed environments and public transportation.

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Restaurants in Bulgaria are open. Bars in Bulgaria are .

Update April 12, 2024

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Bulgaria Travel Advisory

Travel advisory july 26, 2023, bulgaria - level 1: exercise normal precautions.

Reissued with obsolete COVID-19 page links removed.

Exercise normal precautions in Bulgaria.

Read the country information page for additional information on travel to Bulgaria.  

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Bulgaria is one of the most attractive holiday destinations of the Balkan Peninsula by its prosperous history and multicultural fabric. Satisfying the expectations of especially the culture fanciers by its historic Ottoman mosques, Orthodox churches and Roman ruins, Bulgaria is also highly assertive in nature tourism with its verdant spaces for trekking, as well as its splendid beaches and winter sport opportunities.

Having been a cradle of Thracians, Slavs, Greeks, Byzantines and Ottoman Empire respectively throughout the history by its location between the east and the west, Bulgaria truly is an outstanding cultural destination in Europe. You may visit the public libraries and museums in the capital Sofia; see the Thracian Tomb at Sveshtari or Kazanlak Temple in Kazanlak Village; as well as the Rila Monastery, declared World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Take a look at the flight to Bulgaria offered by Turkish Airlines now to enjoy a privileged journey to this lovely country enthralling by its marvelous nature, turquoise sea, deep-rooted history and culture.

Bulgaria flight details

Turkish Airlines flies to two different destinations in Bulgaria: Sofia and Varna . Flights from Istanbul Airport (IST) to Sofia Airport (SOF) in Bulgaria’s capital Sofia take nearly an hour and a half. Direct flights to Varna Airport (VAR), on the other hand, take an hour in average.

The air traffic between Türkiye and Bulgaria is quite busy all year round thanks to their proximity to each other and Bulgaria’s being cheaper compared to other European destinations. In addition, various international festivals and events taking place in the country also make Bulgaria a favorite place for having a tranquil and enjoyable vacation. Sofia International Film Festival in March, which is regarded as one of the most prestigious movie festivals in Europe opens its doors to many globally known movies and welcomes the attendants from various countries worldwide. Sofia Jazz Fest in April, Varna Summer Festival in June and Varna International Music Festival in July are among the top crowd-pulling events held countrywide.

Bulgaria also hosts events to witness its unique local culture. Celebrated at the last week of January, International Masquerade Games Festival stands out as an extremely colorful event, sustaining the traditions dating back to the Pagan beliefs, offering truly a visual feast by interesting masks and traditional costumes. Kukerlandia Festival which is held in February is another impressive cultural feast organized in the country. During this vigorous festival, attendants with traditional costumes and masks representing the Thracian warriors dance by the pounding of bells attached to their belts to chase away evil spirits.

In addition to its brilliant historical artifacts and attractive events, Bulgaria addresses both the summer tourism by its spectacular beaches and the winter tourism by its remarkable skiing centers. As the country is in high demand all year round irrespective of the season, it would be recommendable to plan in advance your visit to this riveting holiday destination.

Bulgaria sightseeing and attractions

Having hosted the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Slavs and Bulgarians for long years, Bulgaria owns a highly prosperous cultural heritage. The capital Sofia is probably the most ideal place to witness such blended culture of the country. As one of the oldest European towns, Sofia is home to countless historical artifacts. Alexander Nevski Cathedral, as one of the icons of Bulgaria, together with Sofia Archeological Museum exhibiting the ruins of all civilizations the country had been home to from B.C. to the 18th century, the historic Sofia Mosque and Sofia Museum of History as the oldest museum of Bulgaria are only a few of the many must-see spots in the capital. If you are planning to explore this cultural capital of Balkans, book your flight to Sofia now and get ready to embark on a magical adventure.

As the second largest city countrywide, Plovdiv is another must-see destination with various historical artifacts remaining from the Roman period. The Old Ottoman houses outside of the Roman ancient theater and Roman Forum district are also worth-seeing. Plovdiv is one hour drive away from the capital Sofia. If you are interested in reaching any attraction comfortably and expanding your travel plan, you may consider the option of car rental to be at ease during your stay.

Those planning to entertain themselves rather than witnessing the deep-rooted history of the country may take a look at the flights to Varna , the third largest city in the country promising a total amusing vacation. Serving to the summer tourism as the country’s sea capital, Varna is under the spotlight by its museums, churches, parks and famous zoos, as well as its beautiful beaches.

Apart from history, sea, sand and sun, Bulgaria has many skiing centers to offer for those fond of winter tourism. As a country hosting the Balkan’s highest mountain, Musala Mountain, Bulgaria owns various ski tracks; Bonsko and Pamporovo are one of the top popular skiing centers in the country.

Popular destinations in Bulgaria

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Overland Crossing from Bulgaria to Turkey – What to Expect

One main highway runs from Bulgaria to Turkey, connecting Sofia to Plovdiv to Istanbul. Travelers cross this border in troves every day, from Bulgaria to Turkey, or the opposite, from Turkey to Bulgaria, overland. 

The landscape along this highway changes drastically, from Bulgarian villages in green foothills, to dry, desert-like landscapes of Turkey. Signs along the road written in Cyrillic and Roman alphabets turn to ones adorned by Arabic script. The small churches, overgrown cemeteries, and crosses you see in Bulgaria are replaced with towering mosques and minarets across the Turkish skyline.

This journey overland from Bulgaria to Turkey can be made by bus or train. Sofia or Plovidv in Bulgaria to Turkey’s Istanbul takes about 10 hours regardless of transportation type. It requires passing two immigration checkpoints. 

I took a bus from Plovdiv to Istanbul in September, 2018. This is my experience with the bus, immigration, and getting to Istanbul city center.   Here’s how to get from Bulgaria to Turkey overland! 

Before We Begin... Check Visa Requirements for Turkey (or Bulgaria):

Bus vs train from bulgaria to turkey.

Several busses and a train will take you overland from Bulgaria to Istanbul, Turkey.

Most busses and the one train are overnight journeys with a 4am wake-up call to go through immigration.  There are also a few day busses that depart from Bulgaria to drop you to Istanbul in the evening. 

Overnight Train Schedule - Sofia to Istanbul

Bus Options - Metro Bus Company

According to the Turkish Metro company website , these are the departure and arrival times from Sofia to Istanbul:

9:00 – 18:30

12:00 – 22:15

17:00 – 2:30

20:30 – 6:00

23:00 – 9:15

Take the arrival times with a grain of salt, because you never know with border control and traffic delays, what time you will actually arrive in Istanbul. 

The picture below shows the times that the same busses depart from Plovdiv. 

My Experience Bussing Overland from Bulgaria to Turkey

I had been taking overnight busses across Europe and it would have made sense to do it again to cross overland from Bulgaria to Turkey. But overnight busses with a border crossing in the middle of the night are the worst ones to get sleep on. I didn’t want to spend two days in Istanbul recovering from no sleep, so I opted for the earliest day bus that would get me into Istanbul in the evening. 

This bus runs from Sofia to Plovidiv to Istanbul overland, as must busses do. It leaves  Sofia at 9am, then Plovdiv at 11am (ended up leaving closer to 12). The bus was packed with people, who all seemed to have three or four massive bags with them. The luggage storage at the bottom of the bus was packed to the brim. 

After the bus left Plovdiv an hour late, it took about three hours of driving through Bulgaria, to reach the border to Turkey. The ride included a short lunch-and-restroom break at a road-side Bulgarian restaurant.

Bulgarian Immigration

There was no line leaving the border in Bulgaria, with two open lanes for immigration. Basically a miracle! The bus pulled up to the checkpoint and we all filed off with our passports. Turkish passport holders passed inspection quickly, but the border control took their time with other passport holders. 

After filing back on the bus, we drove a hundred meters down into the free-zone between Bulgaria and Turkey. The bus stopped next to a multi-story duty-free store so passengers have a chance to do some shopping and use the restroom. 

We had JUST stopped for a restroom break so I thought no one would get off, but of course three or four people did, then came back 15 minutes later with some duty-free bags.

Turkish Immigration

The entry point to Turkey had much more security. There were large metal gates opening and closing behind every bus that went through. Armed guards on plastic chairs were holding big guns on their laps. We waited about 20 minutes for two other busses in front of us to re-load their passengers and drive off, before the metal gates rattled open for our bus.

Things You Need: Passport and Visa for Turkey

We took all of our belongings off our bus to bring to the immigration building. We lined up in front of one immigration officer, and I gave him  my passport and printed Turkish E-visa . 

Get your Turkish E-Visa from here .

The immigration agent examined my passport, looked up at me and asked, “Erika?” When I replied, “Yes, sir,” he nodded approvingly. He stamped it without asking any more questions and I was free to enter Turkey.

In the next room both my bags were scanned. One woman was looking at her phone behind the X-ray screens, and didn’t say anything as I took my bags off the belt. When I left this room there was a small seating area, but right outside was our bus, waiting for the passengers to get back on.

Purchasing an Emergency Visa at the Turkish Border

One American woman who was in front of me in the immigration line had entered the wrong dates on her  Turkish E-Visa . She was told by the officer that she could only enter Turkey at midnight using her visa, so wait at the border to get stamped at midnight, or buy a new visa. 

Luckily you can purchase an E-Visa on the spot at the Turkish border (not sure if the option is available at all times of the day though!) She was able to purchase a new visa then and there, and continue on the bus with us without any delays.

En Route to Istanbul!

The first structure your eyes will be drawn to across the border is a huge mosque, taller than any of the border patrol buildings. As the bus drives through the barren landscape, there are only distant minarets in sight to mark where small villages lie. 

As dusk was approaching around 7pm, the bus took us into the suburbs of Istanbul. San Francisco-esque hills upon hills are lined with towering concrete apartment complexes and more mosques. 

After navigating through traffic, we finally pulled in to our final destination, Otogar Coach Station. I have never seen a place so packed with busses, as far as the eye could see. There was a massive building filled with tour company offices with little side shops and restaurants. Tourists with suitcases were rushing around just like the locals pushing goods around on trollies. 

Crossing Bulgaria to Turkey Overland: Getting to Istanbul City Center

Istanbul has an incredibly modern, clean, and organized metro and tram system . Passengers can all use the IstanbulKart , a pre-loaded transit card, to scan their way around the city.

When I got off the bus and took my luggage, I was engulfed in locals asking if I wanted a taxi ride to town. I rushed passed them with my head down and went straight to the large building opposite. I was looking for an ATM, a Metro ticketing point, and the Metro itself. 

The first large building was just tour offices and restaurants. When I walked through this one to the other side, there was a second identical massive building, where a local told me to go to catch the Metro. This building had more local shops on the inside selling clothes, shoes, watches, and local fast food. 

There are a row of ATMs here to withdraw Turkish Lira from, then other ATM-like ticket machines where you can purchase an IstanbukKart. 

About the IstanbulKart

There are ATM-like machines where people can purchase IstanbulKarts at all Metro stations. They cost 6 Lira ($1.15) for the physical, plastic card, each ride is 2.6 Lira (50 cents) , and transferring adds another 25 cents. For any amount of time you spend in Istanbul, I think it’s worth purchasing a card to make getting around easier. 

Otogar Station to Aksaray Station

I took the red M1 line from Otogar Coach Station Metro to Aksaray, which is the beginning of the tourist neighborhood of Istanbul. From here, I took the blue T1 like to Sultanahmet , which is where the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sofia are located. Here there are endless restaurants, hotels, and souvenir shops. The Big Bazaar and Spice Bazaar are also a 15-20 minute walk from here. 

As a solo female on the public transit in Istanbul, I never ran into any issues or felt unsafe . There were about as many women as there were men on all the rides I took, and the closer I got to Sultanahmet, the more tourists came on board as well.

Other Helpful Links for Crossing Overland from Bulgaria to Turkey

• Train Schedule, Sofia to Istanbul
• Metro Bus Schedule, Sofia to Istanbul
• Rome2Rio Sofia to Istanbul options (missing overnight train option)
• Istanbul Metro Map
• IstanbulKart Info

Find a Place to Stay in Sultanahmet, Istanbul

Istanbul tours under $20 usd.

• 30-minute Basilica Cistern Guided Tour – $9.79
• 90-minute Bosphorus River Cruise – $11.52
• Hagia Sophia Guided Tour & Skip the Line – $17.28 
• Istanbul Whirling Dervish Dancers Experience – $17.28
• Istanbul Topkapi Palace Guided Tour & Skip the Line – $17.28

Are You Prepared For Your Next Travelventures? 

• Book Your Flights – To find the cheapest flights, flexibility is key. I use both  Google Flights  and their low fare calendar, and  Skiplagged , which uses airfare loopholes to get the lowest prices. 
• Book Your Accommodation – Check out  Booking.com  for the largest selection of accommodation around the world. For backpackers,  Hostelworld.com  is also a favorite. 
• Buy Travel Insurance – It’s better to protect yourself from mishaps when traveling. Get a quote from  World Nomads  to see how much it’ll cost to get you covered! 
• Check Visa Requirements – From E-Visas to Visas-on-Arrival,  iVisa  has all the info on country visa requirements. If one is required, you can order one hassle-free through their site.  
• Book Local Excursions – Don’t miss out on world-class experiences by booking tours and tickets online, ahead of your arrival.  GetYourGuide  has fun experiences from all around the world.
• Pack Your Essentials – Check out my posts about Long Term Travel Gear , and Carry-On Luggage Packing Essentials ! 

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One thought on “ overland crossing from bulgaria to turkey – what to expect ”.

Great post and tips also! Enjoy your travel more! 🙂 Have safe trips!

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The Best Ways To Travel From Bulgaria to Turkey, Greece, Macedonia, Serbia, and Romania

In this short and hopefully useful guide we'll share the best ways to travel between Bulgaria and its neighbor countries. It covers mostly public transportation options but of course you could travel by car, by bike, or even by foot. See some ideas about that at the end of the page.

What's The Idea?

And now compare the same with flying three times from Canada to each of these countries. The advantage is obvious. And not just for these countries.

So, let's see how you can do it here:

From Bulgaria to Turkey

Regardless of the not that small distance between Sofia and Istanbul there are no affordable flights between both cities. Unless you think $250 is a good price of course. A company called Pegasus used to fly on the route for about 40% of this price but it no longer does it.

So, here are the options you have:

By train: There is a night train leaving Sofia around 19:30 and arriving Istanbul around 8-9 in the morning. The return journey starts at about 22:30 from Istanbul and arrives Sofia at lunch time. The cost is about €75 for return-trip, 1st class sleeper. It's cheaper if you go second class or travel with regular seat. The journey is long and exhausting so taking sleeper tickets is a good idea.

You'll be bothered twice for passport control, just in the middle of the night. On the Turkish border you'll have to go out, cross a subway and visit the desk. Make sure you have warm clothes as it can be quite cold in the night.

At this time you can't book train tickets online unless you use travel agency.

Important update: According to this info the train travel in the upcoming two years might be even less comfortable than it was.

By bus: There are many buses going to Istanbul starting at Sofia, Plovdiv, Burgas, and Varna. The price from Sofia is ~€50 for return trip. It's approximately 10 hours journey. You can reserve tickets online from this site but I can't find English version.

The price from Burgas and Varna will be nearly the same but the journey from Burgas will be a couple of hours shorter.

Again, it's a challenge to book tickets online, but you are unlikely to meet any troubles booking in place just a day before the trip.

If you are traveling to Ankara or other big city in Turkey purchasing a plane ticket makes more sense. Traveling that far by land will be too exhausting, and the price of the plane ($300 for return trip Sofia-Ankara) becomes a bit more acceptable.

Turkey is huge, but if you want to continue your trip even further you could go to Georgia, Iran or Syria. Istanbul is also a huge airplane hub for most of the Eastern world.

From Bulgaria to Greece

Now this is easier trip especially if you go from/to Sofia. A short and popular trip is to go from Sofia to Thessaloniki. Then you can reach Athens or Greek cities on the sea with local buses or trains. So here are the options in more details:

By plane: If you have to visit Athens and do it quick, plane tickets are about $200 which is acceptable. There are no good flights to other Greek cities or connection to Bulgarian cities other than Sofia.

Unfortunately I'm not that sure these trains run at all at this time .

By bus: If trains are suspended buses remain the only reasonable public travel option. There are many of them heading from Sofia or from the towns near the border. See here for detailed info on bus schedules and prices. Again there is no option to purchase tickets online at this time (year 2012).

From Greece you can relatively easy reach Macedonia, Albania and Turkey by land.

From Bulgaria to Macedonia

The distance between the capitals of both countries - Sofia and Skopje - is just about 170km. Obviously this is the easiest to reach neighbor country. But it's very similar, even the language is almost the same, so don't expect the same level of difference that is there between Bulgaria and Greece or Bulgaria and Turkey.

By plane: Are you keen on paying $220 and staying 20 hours in Istanbul to reach Skopje? I'm not :) Plane connections suck here, so just forget them. It's just 170km after all.

By train: Funny (and sad), but true - there is still no railway connection between Sofia and Skopje. You could travel by train to somewhere, cross the border, and then continue. But it does not make much sense.

By bus As you can see, the only reasonable way to reach Macedonia by public transportation means to get the bus. Fortunately there are 3-4 buses every day and the journey takes less than five hours including the border control. The price for return trip is about € 30.

From Skopje you can easily reach Ochrid or continue by land to Albania or Serbia. Unlike with Bulgaria, Macedonia has train connection with Serbia.

From Bulgaria to Serbia

Serbia is a good destination to visit - both similar and different to Bulgaria. The capital - Belgrade - is around 500km away of Sofia and reachable within a day (or night). If you look for a shorter trip you can go to Nish which is a city very close to the border.

By plane: As I told you, forget about flying to Bulgarian neighbors. Unless you travel on business it doesn't make sense. The plane price starts from $280 for return trip. Compare this to train or bus prices which are €50 - €60 for the same.

By train: There are two trains every day - one night train and a daily one. The journey takes between 8 and 10 hours and there are sleeping compartments available in the night train (I recommend this option). The trains are relatively comfortable. Expect your baggage to be checked at the border.

By bus: Buses are slightly faster and several of them are available daily. The price is about the same. I have not traveled this route by bus so can't share personal experience.

From Serbia you can continue overland to Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo, Croatia, Hungary, or Romania. Most of these destinations are reachable by train.

From Bulgaria to Romania

We made the journey to Bucharest last year on our way to Ireland and Ulster. Bucharest looks quite similar to Sofia, but Romania itself is an interesting country with lots of historical places and things to see.

By plane: Sofia-Bucharest is maybe the only route that worths considering taking the plane. Currently I can find tickets for $180 with Tarom so if your time is limited, maybe you can fly.

By train: There is both night and day train. The journey from Sofia takes 8-9 hours, sleepers are available. Most of the route is inside Bulgaria so you can as well take a train to Ruse and from then bus, taxi or anything like it. That makes Bucharest easy to reach from Varna as well. The trains cost €40 - €60 for return trip.

By bus: There are many buses from Varna and Sofia going to Bucharest. The return trip costs just about €40. Buses go also from Dobrich to Constanta, from Ruse, from Vidin to Calafat, and there are maybe more that I don't know about.

From Romania you can continue to Serbia, Hungary, Ukraine, and Moldova.

Biking, Walking, or Using Boats or Taxis

Bulgaria is a small country so if you have plenty of time reaching its neighbors is possible by a bicycle. There are not many beaten routes but you can probably cycle from Petrich or Gotse Delchev to the Greek border. At Svilengrad there is BCP so you can legally cycle or walk to Edrine in Turkey. Blagoevgrad is just 30km away of the Macedonian border so it's reachable by bike, taxi or even by foot. If you stay Dragoman you can easily cycle to Dimitrovgrad in Serbia. Vidin and Ruse are at walking distance from the Romanian cities on the other side of the border.

Ferry connections are available between Svishtov in Bulgaria and Zimnicea in Romania taking just 15 minutes. The fee for a passenger or bicycle is just €2. Another ferry connects Nikopol with the Romanian Turnu Magurele.

As you see there are options to spend at least six months traveling just around Bulgaria :) And from then on you can continue to Europe or Asia all by land.

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