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Lebanon Travel Advisory

Travel advisory july 31, 2024, lebanon - level 4: do not travel.

Updated to raise the Travel Advisory to Level 4: Do Not Travel, due to rising tensions between Hizballah and Israel.

Do Not Travel to Lebanon due to rising tensions between Hizballah and Israel . If you are in Lebanon, be prepared to shelter in place should the situation deteriorate. The U.S. Embassy strongly encourages U.S. citizens who are already in Southern Lebanon, near the borders with Syria, and/or in refugee settlements to depart.

Do Not Travel to Lebanon due to crime, terrorism, civil unrest, kidnapping, unexploded landmines, and the risk of armed conflict . Some areas, especially near the borders, have increased risk. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

Country Summary : Country Summary: U.S. citizens already in Lebanon should be aware of the risks of remaining in the country and review their personal security plans.

U.S. citizens in Lebanon should be aware that consular officers from the U.S. Embassy are not always able to travel to assist them. The Department of State considers the threat to U.S. government personnel in Beirut serious enough to require them to live and work under strict security. The internal security policies of the U.S. Embassy may be adjusted at any time and without advance notice.

Since October 8, Hizballah has conducted attacks against Israel that have escalated in recent weeks, culminating in a July 27 rocket attack on Majdal Shams, a town in the Golan Heights, which killed 12 children. This strike has increased the risk of further escalation between Hizballah and Israel.

The Lebanese government cannot guarantee the safety of U.S. citizens against sudden outbreaks of violence and armed conflict. Family, neighborhood, or sectarian disputes can escalate quickly and can lead to gunfire or other violence with no warning.

Terrorist groups continue plotting possible attacks in Lebanon. Terrorists may conduct attacks with little or no warning targeting tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, and local government facilities.

Local security authorities have noted a rise in violent crimes, including political violence. Multiple unsolved killings in Lebanon may have been politically motivated.

Kidnapping, whether for ransom, political motives, or family disputes, has occurred in Lebanon. Suspects in kidnappings may have ties to terrorist or criminal organizations.

Unexploded landmines and explosive remnants of war are a hazard along the border with Syria. Heed land mine warning signs. Do not venture off the road into areas marked off with red and white plastic tape. Avoid roadside ditches, shoulders, and unmarked trails. Never touch anything resembling unexploded munitions.

U.S. citizens should avoid demonstrations and exercise caution if in the vicinity of any large gatherings or protests as these have the potential to turn violent quickly and with little notice. Protesters have blocked major roads, including thoroughfares between downtown Beirut and the area where the U.S. Embassy is located, and between Beirut and Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport.

Read the  country information page  for additional information on travel to Lebanon.

If you decide to travel to Lebanon:

• Visit our website for information on   Travel to High-Risk Areas .
• Appoint one family member to serve as the point of contact with kidnappers/hostage-takers, media, U.S. and host country government agencies, and members of Congress if you are kidnapped, or taken hostage.
• Keep travel documents up to date and easily accessible.
• Do not touch unknown metal objects and avoid traveling off well-used roads, tracks, and paths due to risk of unexploded ordnance.
• Avoid demonstrations and crowds.
• Stay alert in locations frequented by Westerners.
• Monitor local media for breaking events and adjust your plans based on new information.
• Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
• Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
• Review the  Country Security Report  for Lebanon.
• Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel.
• U.S. citizens who travel abroad should always have a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Southern Lebanon – Level 4: Do Not Travel, Depart If You Are There  (See map below)

The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S. citizens to avoid southern Lebanon and to depart if you are there; that is, all parts south of the city of Saida, to include inland areas, as illustrated in the map below. Cross-border rocket, missile, and artillery fire continues to impact southern Lebanon on a daily basis and has caused a significant number of fatalities and injuries.

Border with Syria – Level 4: Do Not Travel, Depart If You Are There

The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S. citizens to avoid the Lebanon-Syria border and to depart if you are there. This area has seen clashes between Lebanese security forces and Syrian-based violent extremist groups. The U.S. Department of State also warns U.S. citizens of the risk of traveling on flights that fly over Syria, which include some flights to and from Beirut.

Refugee Settlements – Level 4: Do Not Travel, Depart If You Are There

The U.S. Embassy urges U.S. citizens to avoid travel to refugee settlements in Lebanon and depart if you are there. These settlements are prone to outbreaks of violence including shootings and explosions.

Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .

Travel Advisory Levels

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Ultimate Lebanon Travel Guide

The ultimate travel guide to lebanon.

Last Updated: 22 Feb 2023.

This guide will tell you everything you need to know for visiting Lebanon during the current crisis, updated regularly with the latest pandemic travel restrictions and for changes caused by Lebanon’s current crises.  I have lived in Lebanon for the past three years ( narrowly surviving the 2020 port explosion ) and have visited almost every inch of this beautiful and crazy country.

Lebanon was a beautiful country with vibrant cities and beautiful ancient historic sites before the multiple crises that began in 2019.  And actually, it still is.  With a bit of planning, it’s still possible to have an amazing trip here, despite the political crisis, economic crisis, electricity shortages, frequent protests and the after effects of the port explosion.

The 2,200 year old Roman temple of Bacchus, the wine god, in Baalbek.

Places to Visit

One of the best things about Lebanon is that almost any area can be visited as a day trip from Beirut.  You can choose to do the below as a series of day trips or stay overnight in different cities as you travel.  Staying overnight reduces the time spent travelling, but also means you have to take everything with you as you travel.

In my opinion, the real must see place in Beirut are the Raouche (Pigeon) rocks, which are a beautiful place to watch the sunset.  If you’re feeling adventurous, take the path down the cliff from the viewing point next to the Bay Rock Cafe (opposite Starbucks) and sit on the rocks opposite Raouche.  From there, not only do you get a beautiful view of the rocks themselves, but also of the sun setting over the Mediterranean Sea.  It’s a great place to enjoy a couple of beers or a bottle of wine.  

The best place to view Pigeon Rocks (left, with people gathered). Also a great location to take a bottle of wine for a romantic sunset date.

One of the joys of Beirut is just strolling through its vibrant neighbourhoods.  I particularly recommend Hamra, which is an interesting mix of old and new, with boutique shops, bars and restaurants.  Gemayze and Mar Mikhael, the main bar district, are also gradually coming back to life after the port explosion destroyed them in 2020.  Zaytuna Bay is a chance to see the more upmarket side of Beirut.

The centre of the Beirut Souks area, including the iconic clock tower in Place de L’Etoile and the Roman baths, has reopened after being cordoned off by the military due to protests for the past two and a half years.  Until recently, it was still possible to enter the ‘egg,’ an abandoned cinema building purportedly left to remind people of the atrocities of the civil war (it’s full of bullet holes), but unfortunately the authorities have now built a fence around it to keep people out.  

The National Museum of Beirut reopened to tourists in summer 2021 and is currently open daily.  Be sure not to miss the ‘mummy room’ on the basement level, which houses three mummies from the Qadisha Valley.  It’s a little temperature-controlled room in a corner and easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there.

The Beirut ‘egg’ (abandoned cinema) and the main mosque.

The Jeita Grottoes & Byblos

The Jeita Grottoes, located slightly to the north of Beirut, are spectacular and conveniently located not far from the coastal highway up to Byblos, making the two a convenient day trip.  You can also choose to stay overnight in Byblos before heading further up north.

At the Jeita Grottoes, you have to leave your phone in a little locker near the entrance, as they don’t allow photographs.  It doesn’t look very secure, but I’ve never heard of anyone having problems.  

The main attraction of Byblos is wandering the beautiful historic centre, with its ancient Mediterranean architecture, beautiful flowers growing up the walls and in some cases across nets over the streets and cute boutiques, bars and restaurants.  There’s also an ancient citadel that’s worth checking out and the picturesque little harbour.  

If you’re looking for something a little adventurous, walk along the right hand wall of the harbour (as you’re facing out to sea) until you reach the ancient tower at the harbour entrance.  From here, with a bit of care, you can climb up to the top of the tower for amazing sunset views, often without any other people.  

If the beach is more your thing, slightly north of the harbour you’ll find a pebble beach that’s great for swimming in the summer (approximately May to October).  Finally, Byblos is home to Fenicia restaurant, in my opinion one of the best restaurants in the whole of Lebanon.  

Byblos harbour is beautiful day and night.

A pretty seaside town in the north of Lebanon, Batroun is nice for an afternoon to wander it’s old town, which is basically a less touristy version of Byblos.  In the Batroun area there are several off-the-beaten-track places that are worth checking out if you have time:

• The Msailha fort, just up the main highway from the city, is small but impressive, standing alone on a huge rock (it’s also free to enter).  The location is here on Google Maps .
• The Rock of Hamat, a giant rock painted in the colours of the Lebanese flag, on the edge of the old cliffside road from Batroun to Chekka.  The location is here on Google Maps .
• The cliffside walk though the old road tunnel to the north of the cliffside road from Batroun to Chekka.  Go to coordinates 34.311459, 35.681865 ( here on Google Maps ) and then take the footpath on the left hand side of the road before the current tunnel entrance.
• For the more adventurous travellers, the disused railway tunnel.  To reach the entrance, after the current road tunnel walk about 100m then go down the footpath on the left hand side of the road.  Two thirds of the way down, there’s a little bank on the left that you can scramble up (about 2-3m).  The entrance to the tunnel is at the top of this bank.

The spectacular Mseilha Fort, just outside of Batroun.

Much of the time, Lebanon doesn’t feel like the Middle East.  There are no deserts, no camels (apart from a couple in Chouf that were imported from Saudi just to entertain tourists) and many of the main cities, including Beirut, Byblos and Batroun, have more of a Mediterranean feel than a Middle Eastern feel.  And then you reach Tripoli.  Check out the old souk (market) and the citadel.  The souk seems to close around sunset at the moment, possibly due to a lack of power after dark.  

Tripoli’s Corniche is, in my opinion, not as nice as Beirut’s, but Al Mina, the old town, is quaint and has several nice restaurants, including The Sailor Woman, my favourite seafood restaurant in Lebanon.  If you have plenty of time, you can also catch a boat from the Corniche to Palm Island, which has the biggest sandy beach in the north of Lebanon.  It’s a nice place to chill out and swim in the sea.  

Beach Day on Rabbit Island with a group of crazy Couchsurfers.

Anjar & Baalbek

The Roman ruins at Baalbek are some of the most spectacular in the world, especially the enormous temple of Bacchus, the wine God (gotta love Roman priorities).  That’s why you should visit Anjar first!  Anjar is beautiful and spectacular, but after Baalbek, it will seem small and insignificant in comparison.  Don’t forget to try sfeeha, the local delicacy, while you’re in Baalbek.  Baalbek is also home to the Sayyida Khawla shrine, one of the most beautiful and historic Shia shrines in Lebanon.

Local believe that Khawla, daughter of Imam al-Husayn, is buried in this tomb, although historians aren’t sure that Imam al-Husayn even had a daughter.

Baalbek has a bad reputation for safety, but this generally refers to other parts of Baalbek governorate, not Baalbek city.  If you’re concerned about safety, just don’t go north of the city (and definitely keep away from Arsel, which has a justifiably rough reputation).

Saida & Mleeta

Saida has probably the most beautiful souk (market) in the whole of Lebanon, full of ancient stone archways and local people hawking traditional wares (and delicious Arab sweets).  There’s also the small but worth-a-visit Dabane Palace Museum, a soap museum and the Hammam el-Sheikh traditional bathhouse.  The seafort on the waterfront is also worth a visit (although more spectacular from the outside than inside).  If you want a beer, go to Resthouse, a restaurant next to the seafort that is the only place in Saida allowed to sell alcohol.  Its garden is also a great place to take photos of the seafort.

Mleeta is a tiny village in the mountains that is home to probably the most well-maintained museum in Lebanon – The Hezbollah Museum.  Here, a free English-speaking guide will take you around and tell you about the various wars against Israel and Hezbollah’s role in protecting and driving out the enemy.  Whatever your political views, the museum is very well done and worth a visit.  It’s located about a 40-minute drive up into the mountains above Saida.

The Saida seafort – a castle in the sea.

One of the oldest cities in the world, Tyre is home to an ancient Roman Hippodrome.  The site itself is a bit rundown now, but the ruins are still impressive.  There’s also a pretty little old town with less tourists than other cities in Lebanon and a colourful harbour full of fishing boats.  The restaurants next to it are worth checking out for some fresh seafood too.  To the south of the city is Lebanon’s longest sandy beach.  This was affected by the oil spill off Israel in 2021, but is now clean again and safe for swimming.  

Tyre’s colourful harbour – a great place to eat fresh seafood.

The Northern Mountains

There are many beautiful places to visit in the northern mountains of Lebanon, aside from just the pleasure of driving through the local villages and the often breathtaking scenery.  The three I would recommend for visitors are:

• The 2,000 year old olive trees in Bchaleeh, which are supposedly the oldest in the world.  Local legends say that the olive branch from the story of Noah’s Ark came from one of these trees, but you can make up your own mind.   The location is clearly marked on Google Maps .
• The viewpoint at Aqoura.  Climb the rocky hill opposite the church for spectacular 360 degree views).   The start point is at Saydat Al Qarn church ( here on Google Maps ).
• The Batarra Waterfall.  This 255m (837 ft) waterfall, which passes through several layers of Jurassic limestone rock, is definitely the most beautiful in Lebanon.  It’s best visited in the spring when there is plenty of meltwater.  I went in early August once and there was no water at all.
• The Cedars of God.  At possibly 2,500 years old, the Cedars of God are some of the oldest cedar trees in the world and a UNESCO world heritage site to boot.

You will need a car to reach these locations, or you could try hitchhiking.  

The 255m Batarra waterfall. Try throwing a stone down into the chasm below and see how long it takes before you near it hit the bottom.

The Chouf Region

Home to the majority of the Druze population of Lebanon, the Chouf region also contains the country’s largest remaining cedar forests at the Chouf Biosphere Reserve.  This is a great place to do some hiking with trails from 5 minutes to a full day.  

The region also contains the Bettadine palace, which was built by the Ottomans, and the Moussa Palace, which was built over several decades by a crazy Lebanese man who wanted his own palace.  The latter contains a vast collection of ancient weapons and some very well done scenes from traditional Lebanese life, created with models animated in various ways.  I love the concept that the guy just suddenly decided to build himself a palace!

A traditional Lebanese scene in the Moussa Palace museum.

The Christian city of Jounieh used to be where Arabs from stricter countries in the Middle East went to party and unwind, as evidenced by the strip of hotels on the coast that look like they’ve seen better days.  Even now, the city is still home to Lebanon’s only casino, Casino du Liban, and a bunch of ‘super night clubs’ – basically stripclubs.

For tourists not looking for such things, the main attraction is Harissa, the hill behind the city with a statue of Our Lady of Lebanon on the top.  There is also a very nice (but steep) hike up from the city below through the dense forest with occasional views across the bay.  The start of the path is at coordinates 33.997710, 35.650976 ( here on Google Maps ).  Recommended for sunset.  

Hermel and Akkar

The far north of Lebanon is known as one of its most dangerous areas, but most reports are highly exaggerated.  The main attraction here is the 2,500 year-old Pyramid of Hermel, which I visited in 2021 .  Even now, no one’s quite sure who built it!  Worth a visit if you have the time, but its location in one of the most remote parts of the country means that it won’t fit many peoples’ itineraries.  

Nobody is sure why the Pyramid of Hermel was built.

The Far South (UNIFIL-Controlled Area)

The far south of Lebanon is interesting, because you can drive along beside the border wall with Israel, which is covered in security cameras and, in some places, graffiti similar to that seen in the Palestinian territories.  The coast at Naqoura also have the cleanest waters in Lebanon for swimming, thanks to the low population density and proximity to Israel, which has better sewage treatment facilities than Lebanon.  

The downside is that this area is under control of the UN peacekeeping force (UNIFIL) and foreigners need a permit to enter it.  See below the section on Entering the UNIFIL-Controlled Area for details of how to obtain the permit.  

This picturesque little village in the mountains near Saida is often overlooked by travellers, which is a pity, as it boasts one of Lebanon’s most spectacular waterfalls.  For hikers, the village is surrounded by Lebanon’s largest pine forest.  For those who want something darker, there’re also some interesting abandoned buildings leftover from Lebanon’s war of resistance against Israel to explore.  Read more in my dedicated Jezzine guide here.

The sea wall south of Naqoura

Suggested Itineraries

Pick and choose where to visit from the places above.  However, my suggestions are as follows:

Two-day Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos .  This is way too short, but spend one day wandering Beirut, watch the sunset at Raouche in the evening and then head to the Jeita Grottoes and Byblos on day 2.

Four-day Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos – Saida & Mleeta – Anjar & Baalbek.   Best to base yourself in Beirut for this itinerary, which covers the major highlights of the country.  

One-week (7 day) Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos – Tripoli – The Northern Mountains – Saida & Mleeta – The Southern Mountains – Anjar & Baalbek. This itinerary includes most of the highlights of the country with a variety of cities, ancient ruins and nature.

Two-week (14 day) Trip or Longe r : Beirut – Jeita Grottoes – Jounieh – Byblos – Batroun – Tripoli – The Northern Mountains – Anjar & Baalbek – Saida & Mleeta – Jezzine – The Southern Mountains – Tyre .  You could easily spend more than a day in many of the places listed here, making the trip more relaxing and enjoyable.  Alternatively, add in some hiking or visit some random villages in the mountains, many of which are beautiful.  

If you have the time, check out the Rock of Hamat near Batroun for a very Instagrammable pic.

I had no idea until I moved to Lebanon, but the country has some amazing hikes.  My personal favourites are the following:

• Qornet As Sawda (Black Peak) – The highest mountain in not only Lebanon, but the entire Levant region, and 5th highest in the Middle East, at 3,088m.  The landscape is like nothing else in the country, as barren as the moon.  It gets very cold near the top and is covered in snow from around November to May, so it’s best to avoid these times.  The hike starts from the Cedars ski resort near the Cedars of God and the first two hours follow the ski lifts.  The total hiking time is about 8 hours and it’s long, but not difficult.  
• The Chouf Biosphere Reserve – The largest cedar forests in Lebanon make for some beautiful hiking.  The reserve is clearly marked on Google Maps and is suitable for short or long hikes.
• The Qadisha Valley – Possibly the most beautiful place in the whole of Lebanon, a Colombian monk lives in a tiny monastery perched high on a cliff above the valley.  The path to the monastery is narrow with beautiful views and not particularly difficult, although the monk himself has stopped meeting visitors recently, due to the risk of Covid, as he is very old.
• Jabel Moussa Biosphere Reserve – There are many hikes here, from short 3-5km jaunts to 20km marathons and over steep mountain paths.  The highlight is Chouwen lake, which is a beautiful turquoise blue.  It’s also possible to swim in it during the summer.  
• Bkassine Pine Forest – The largest pine forest in Lebanon is riddled with beautiful hiking trails.  Check out my Jezzine guide for details .

The moonscape of Qornet As Sawda is like nothing else in the whole of Lebanon.

A rare near eastern fire salamander, spotted by yours truly while hiking in the Chouf region.

Anyone who thinks the Middle East is only desert and camels has never been to Lebanon – the lush green of the Qadisha Valley is like something out of a Disney film.

Impact of the Crisis – Electricity

Lebanon’s national grid currently only supplies about 1-2 hours of electricity per day to most parts of the country, due to a shortage of fuel, insufficient capacity and various other factors.  This is terrible if you’re local and don’t have a backup power supply.  However, for tourists it’s actually not that big a problem, as major hotels have good generators that provide 24/7 power and most restaurants and other businesses also have generators, if not all the time.

The best advice here is check with your hotel before visiting.  Some generators are not designed to run 24/7 and so buildings can have gaps without power.  My apartment currently has seven hours in 24 with no power, split between the night and morning, when they let the generator ‘rest.’

The electricity crisis has made the roads more dangerous – many street lights and traffic lights are not operating.  If you do drive in Lebanon, when you come to a junction without working traffic lights, just slow down and drive slowly through.  Most Lebanese drivers are very cautious at these junctions, as the economic crisis has made imported car parts astronomically expensive and no one wants to damage their car.  

Protests occasionally turn violent, but luckily protest areas are easily avoided by visitors.

Impact of the Crisis – Hyperinflation

The most important thing to remember is to bring enough cash for the duration of your stay.  The best currency to bring is USD, but other common currencies, such as EUR and GBP, can also be exchanged at black market rates.  Licensed currency exchange shops are now permitted to exchange currency at black market rates, so you no need to be hooked up with a black market dealer.  

Pro tip : before coming to Lebanon, download the Lira Rate or Lira Exchange app for your smartphone.  These apps show the current black market rates and, although the rate on the street is usually slightly lower, give you a good guide as to the approximate rate you should expect when changing money.

If you do run out of money in Lebanon, don’t withdraw money from an ATM if you can possibly avoid it.  ATMs currently operate at the official rate of 15,000 LBP to the USD, so you’re losing most of your money to the banks.  The same applies to paying for things priced in LBP with credit/debit cards.  ATMs no longer offer USD currency withdrawal for foreign bank cards.  The best approach for travellers is to use a currency transfer service like MoneyGram or Western Union, which allow you to transfer in foreign currency and collect it in USD.

One knock on effect of the economic crisis is that Lebanon is now significantly cheaper than it used to be.  Hotels have started charging foreigners in dollars again, but everything else, and especially food, is much cheaper than it was before.  A good Lebanese meal for two in a normal restaurant will usually cost about $15, including drinks.  In a slightly more upmarket restaurant, expect to pay around $30.  

The economic crisis is so bad that Batman had to trade in the Batmobile.

Impact of the Crisis – Safety

Crime rates in Lebanon are very low and, although they have risen recently as people become increasingly desperate, rates of petty theft are still lower than in most of Europe and criminals in general do not specifically target foreigners.  That said, the atmosphere can feel tense and the fortifications erected in some areas (lots of barbed wire, concrete barriers and patrolling soldiers) can give the impression that the safety situation is worse than it is.  

Most violent incidents that have been in the news recently have occurred during protests, often of a political nature.  If you do see the beginnings of a protest, such as groups of people marching together or tyres burning in the road, simply turn around and leave the area.  Protests usually start peacefully, but build to a point where the demonstrations spill over into violence.  Again, protests do not target foreigners, but there is a risk of being caught in the violence if you stick around.

An unfortunate legacy of the Lebanese civil war is that a lot of the populations still own guns.  At a recent protest in Beirut, not only were there shootings with machine guns, but the violence escalated with the use of RPGs.  This is an extreme case.  Again, I stayed away from the area.  

Guns are also often used at funerals or celebrations, where they are shot into the air in waves of celebratory gunfire.  Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, and people are occasionally killed by falling bullets or by bullets entering buildings through windows.  If you do hear shooting while you’re in a building, move to the interior, away from the windows and wait for it to subside.  If you’re outside, leave the area.  Funerals rarely happen in the city centre, which is the most interesting area for foreign travellers, so you probably won’t come across them anyway.  Furn El Chebek, Chiyah, Tariq El Jdideh and Jnah are common areas for funerals.

Lebanon is generally very safe. Even walking through the slummier neighbourhoods of Tripoli, Lebanon’s poorest city, I never felt unsafe.

Certain areas of Beirut experience violence far more than others.  In general, the southern suburbs of Beirurt, south of main road where the National Museum of Beirut is located, are less safe than the city centre.  In particular, Chiyah, Cola and Tayouneh and Tariq El Jdideh have all seen violent protests.  Martyr’s Square and the Beirut souks area also see frequent protests, but these tend to be less violent than those in the south.

As a tourist, the only areas you’re likely to visit to the south are Badaro (an upmarket bar street) and the Cola Intersection, as it’s the main hub for public transport to the south and the Bekaa Valley.  I visit these locations regularly and have never had problems, but keep an eye out just in case.

This may all sound very scary, but actually Lebanon is very safe for tourists.  Even now, by far the most dangerous thing is the roads, where accidents are frequent.  Just use a bit of common sense and you’ll be fine.

Impact of the Crisis – Fuel

One of the best ways to see Lebanon, and especially the more remote parts, is to rent a car and drive yourself.  During the summer of 2021, fuel became extremely difficult to obtain, often requiring queuing for hours (if you can even find a fuel station that’s open).  The only other option was to purchase it on the blackmarket at vastly inflated prices.

The good news is that, since the end of September 2021, fuel has been readily available again.  The government has let the price of fuel rise to close to market value, which has reduced incentives for fuel hoarding and smuggling to Syria.  

Bikers queuing for fuel at the peak of the fuel crisis in 2021

Ethics – Should I Visit Lebanon During the Crisis?

With frequent power cuts and shortages of some products, many people question whether they should visit a country while it’s in crisis, as they feel they may be using limited resources that are needed by the local population.  In the case of Lebanon, the answer is definitely yes, you should visit.  Lebanon produces very little domestically – even 80%+ of food is imported.  Shortages are not caused by a lack of supply on global markets, they’re caused by a lack of financial means to purchase supply (compounded by corruption and a range of other factors).  

By visiting Lebanon, you are bringing much needed foreign currency into the country and, by buying products and services from local businesses, ensuring that it reaches local people who need it.  One of the biggest problems for Lebanese people is that the value of the LBP to the dollar is so low, which makes imports expensive.  Everytime there is a large influx of visitors, for example with the Lebanese diaspora returning home over Christmas, the LBP gains value, helping local people.  This shows the positive effect that an influx of foreign currency has and, as an individual your contribution will be small, but will certainly be positive.  In other words, don’t feel bad about visiting!

Lebanese people are very good at enjoying life, even in the middle of a crisis.

One of the best ways to see Lebanon is to rent a car.  Car rentals are cheap now (about $20/day for a small car, including insurance) and Lebanon is a very car-based society.  A deposit of around $100 is often requested in cash for your first rental.  So far, I’ve not heard of any problems having this refunded.  In theory, an International Driver’s Permit is required, but in reality no one cares, at least not if your local driver’s licence is in English, French or Arabic.

I usually rent from Mike Rent-a-Car, which is a good option if you want to support local businesses.  The price is generally $20-30/day depending on the season for a small car and their Website is at www.mikerentacar.com .  Their office in Beirut is located here .  Alternatively, the big international car rental companies, such as Avis and Europcar , also operate in Lebanon.  They also have the advantage of having a presence at the airport, so you don’t need to bother with other transport to get to your accommodation. 

Cars and Drivers

If you don’t feel confident driving in Lebanon, it is possible to hire a car and driver from a hotel or hostel. This can cost upwards from around $70 a day plus fuel, but hotels may charge significantly more.

Ride Hailing Apps

Uber and Bolt both work well in Beirut.  Bolt is usually slightly cheaper, but Uber cars are generally in better condition and the drivers are more professional.  These apps are also by far the cheapest way to get to or from the airport in Beirut.  Just be sure to change the payment method to cash, as credit cards are billed at the official exchange rate so you’ll end up paying $50 for a 5-minute trip across town.

Public Transport

Lebanon has an informal public transport network made up for service (shared) taxis and minibuses.  These are operated privately with pricing regulated by the government.  There are also public buses from Beirut to Tripoli.  Vehicles licensed for public transport, including taxis, all have red number plates (or red lettering on the number plate).

To catch a service (shared) taxi, stand on the edge of a road (main roads are usually better) and hold out your arm when a taxi comes past (look for the red number plates).  Ask the driver “Service?”  If he agrees, it means the taxi is shared, so you will not be charged for a private journey.  Then tell him your destination.  If he’s going in the right direction and willing to take you there, he’ll agree.  Finally, ask him the price.  Most drivers are very honest, but a few do try to overcharge foreigners.  

Inside Beirut

Service taxis operate throughout Beirut, although explaining the destination can be tricky.  Often, the easiest approach is just to say the name of the area, such as “Hamra,” “Gemayze,” “Daora,” or “Cola.”  Minibuses on set routes also operate, but finding the routes is extremely difficult, so use the same approach as when taking a service and ask the driver whether he goes to your destination.  Prices for service taxis are just over $1 and for minibuses around $0.50.

Northern Lebanon

Shared taxis and minibuses run from the Daora roundabout in Beirut up the coastal highway to Jounieh, Byblos, Batroun and Tripoli.  Prices vary, but are cheap, starting at about $1 to Jounieh.  Just ask the drivers whether they go to the city you want to reach.

For Tripoli, there’s also a bus that runs on an actual schedule from Martyr’s Square in Beirut.  

Their current schedule can be found on their Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/connexion.transportation . 

Southern Lebanon and the Bekaa Valle y

Minibuses run from the Cola Intersection in southern Beirut down the coastal highway to Saida and Tyre, as well as to Baalbek in the Bekaa Valley and to the Chouf region.  To visit the Chouf Biosphere Reserve, catch the bus to Barouk, the name of the nearest village.  From there, you need to walk several kilometres to enter the reserve and there is no public transport.  Hitchhiking could be an option. 

To reach Anjar, take the minibus to Baalbek and get off at Chtoura.  From here, there are other minibuses running to Anjar.  

The Jeita Grottoes

The Jeita Grottoes are located about halfway between Beirut and Byblos, approximately 5km from the highway.  Take public transport from the Daora roundabout and get off at the Ajaltoun exit of the main highway (coordinates 33.960616, 35.604071, here on Google Maps ).  From here you can either walk (5km uphill) or take a taxi.  There are usually several drivers hanging around this area, although prices can be high and will depend on your negotiation skills.  To get back to the highway afterwards, you can usually find a driver in the Jeita Grottoes carpark.  Another good option to reach the Jeita Grottoes is to take an Uber all the way from Beirut.  Uber is cheap in Lebanon, so this works out around the same price.

I’m not aware of any public transport option to reach this area of the country (including Aqoura, the Batara waterfall and the Cedars of God), so your options are really driving or hitchhiking.  

The view from Aqoura – there is still snow on the mountains in early May.  The northern mountains are a pain to get to without a car, but worth the effort.

Transport to and from Beirut Airport

Uber is a cheap and convenient way to get to or from the airport in Beirut.  This should cost around $6.  However, this can be tricky when first arriving, due to needing to obtain Lebanese pounds to pay the driver.  If the exchange counter at the airport is not open or the rate is bad, you can try negotiating with the Uber driver to pay in USD at the black market rate.

There are always plenty of local taxis waiting at the airport to take you to the city centre.  These often try to charge ridiculous rates to foreigners – up to $50 for the 10-15 minute journey.  With a bit of bargaining, you should be able to agree on around $10.

Checkpoints

There are military checkpoints on the roads throughout Lebanon and even within some parts of Beirut.  Generally, they wave foreigners through without saying anything.  If driving yourself, slowdown at the checkpoint, wind down the window and greet the soldier.  Most times, he’ll wave you though before you even come to a stop.  

In my two years here during which I’ve travelled the country extensively, I’ve been asked twice for my nationality and had my passport checked once (so carry it with you, just in case), and that was on the road between Hermel and Qobayat, one of the most remote parts of the country.

Entering the UNIFIL-Controlled Area

The only exception to the above is the checkpoints for entering the UNIFIL-controlled area south of the Litani river near the border with Israel.  Foreigners can only enter with a permit obtained in advance (with the exception of UN employees).  To obtain the permit, visit the police headquarters in Saida with your passport.  The police station is at coordinates 33.550327, 35.381710 ( here on Google Maps ).  You need to bring your passport and colour photocopies of the identity page and your entry stamp to Lebanon (and visa, if you come from a country that needs a visa to enter Lebanon).  It generally takes less than one hour and permits can be issued for entry on the same day.  Permits can be obtained for one or multiple days.

Northern Israel, as viewed over the imposing border wall in south Lebanon.

Recently (as of early 2023), the black market exchange rate has been hovering around the 80,000 LBP to the USD rate, whereas the official rate is 15,000 LBP.  Previously, currency exchange shops were prohibited from giving the black market rate, but the government has relaxed this rule, so any currency exchange shop can exchange money for you.  Just make sure you bring plenty of cash.

Whatever you do, don’t use a foreign bank card in an ATM or to pay in shops.  The banks still apply the official rate, so you’ll be paying several times the real price.  

Pre-crisis, these notes were worth about $66 each. Now they’re worth around $3.

Mobile Phone Service and SIM Cards

Lebanon has good mobile Internet even in most rural areas.  SIM cards are widely available from mobile phone shops.  I use Alpha, which has good 4G coverage across most of the country.  Passports are not required to obtain a SIM.  Prices fluctuate, but a SIM card with 6GB of data valid for one month can be obtained for around $20.  I have been warned to check that the seller gives you the packaging to ensure that it’s not a reused, although I’m not sure what the problem would be with this..  

Restaurants and Coffee Shops

One of the greatest pleasures of visiting Lebanon is the food.  This list is by no means exhaustive, but here are my favourite restaurants.  I happen to like coffee a lot, so I’ve also slung in a few coffee shop recommendations for good measure.

• Resto Ghazar: My favourite Lebanese-Armenian restaurant.  Try the soubeureg (cheese pastries), mouhamara (pomegranate with nuts) and manti.  Although not Armenian, their batata harra (spicy potatoes with coriander) is also out of this world.  Prices are very reasonable, at about $10-15 a person, including drinks.  
• Ohannes Restaurant: Another great Armenian restaurant, with beautiful tiled decor.  The food is also great, especially the Ohannes salad and fried liver.  This place is a bit more upmarket at about $15-25 per person, including drinks.
• T-Marbouta: A variety of great Lebanese food in the heart of Hamra with a nice outdoor seating area.  About $8-15 a person, including drinks.
• Sawani Falfoul: A great place for breakfast in Badaro, an upmarket bar street.  In particular, try the foul (a kind of chickpea soup, pronounced like the word “fool” in English), shakshuka (scrambled egg with tomato) and hummus (the “Malaysian” hummus is particularly good, if not very Lebanese sounding).
• Barbar Restaurant: Basic but tasty Lebanese barbeque restaurant in Hamra.  Not sure of the current price, but cheap!
• Le Chef: A traditional Lebanese restaurant that claims to be the oldest in Lebanon, although my Lebanese friends tell me that this is bullshit.  The place has a lot of character and was saved from bankruptcy by a donation from Russel Crow, who once ate there, after being destroyed in the port explosion in August 2020.
• Notes Speciality Coffee: My local coffee place.  Great brews and the chance to meet me if you’re there in the morning (I often work from there).  

Quail eggs with basterma (seasoned meat) – an Armenian-Lebanese delicacy.

• Fenicia: This restaurant is so good that I have hardly eaten anywhere else in Byblos.  Up there with Resto Ghazar as one of my two favourite restaurants in Lebanon.  The environment is elegant and the food is absolutely out-of-this-world.  The cheese/shrimp rolls and the mixed grill plata are my recommendations.  Prices are about $15-25 per person, including drinks.  The only problem is that they don’t take reservations and getting a seat can be difficult.  

Byblos has many local restaurants, like this Italian one, where you can sit outside and enjoy the old town vibe.

• The Colonel Brewery: Lebanon’s most famous craft beer brewery, the Colonel recently opened a restaurant with a view of the Mediterranean and a great selection of fresh seafood.  Try the delicious raw fish if you’re feeling adventurous.  A meal for two including drinks is around $30.
• Barrio 67: Not Lebanese cuisine, but delicious international food and nice decoration in the heart of the old town.  Prices are about $15-25 per person, including drinks. 
• The Sailor Woman: this cute little restaurant serves only six dishes – fish with tahini, calamari, octopus, french fries, fattouch (traditional Lebanese green salad) and Tabbouleh (traditional Lebanese salad with Parsley).  What makes it so special is that all the cooking is done by a little old lady in her apartment, which is just next to the restaurant.  The fish is also very fresh, as Tripoli is the centre of the Lebanese fishing industry.  
• Newtown Coffee: Great place to take a break from sightseeing and chill.  Nice environment and good coffee.  

My favourite fish in Tahini at The Sailor Woman restaurant.

Be sure to try some Lebanese sweets, which can be found across the country.

• Foul Abou El Ezz: Another breakfast place, simple, very local and delicious.  Try the foul (a kind of chickpea soup, pronounced like the word “fool” in English) and hummus.  
• Green’s Coffee: One of my favourite coffee shops in Lebanon with a great selection of coffees and even a deli counter.  The environment is top-notch with a nice retro feel.  
• Resthouse: Overpriced (although still cheap by international standards), but with a great view of the Seafort and the only place allowed to sell alcohol in Saida.  Perfect for a beer with a view on a hot summer’s day.

A man making local sweets at a little bakery in the winding streets of Saida’s old bazaar.

• Local sfeeha place: On the main street of Baalbek, on the left as you’re walking away from the Roman ruins, you’ll come across what is basically a traditional oven in a room on the edge of the street with a few tables outside (approx. coordinates: 34.005245, 36.208302, here on Google Maps ).   They make one dish – delicious sfeeha, the traditional meat pastry originally from Baalbek – and they make it really well.  It’s a while since I’ve been there, so not sure of the exact price, but twenty sfeeha cost a few dollars.

Local sfiha meat pastries being prepared for the brick oven.

• Fresh seafood: Tyre has a wonderful selection of reasonably-priced fresh seafood restaurants overlooking the harbour.  The location is at 33.274307, 35.194684 ( here on Google Maps ) and there are several small restaurants with harbour views nearby.  Prices start from about $10 a person, including drinks.

Accommodation

Hotels recently switched to charging foreign tourists in USD and so the prices are roughly the same as before the crisis.  You may be able to negotiate a deal with some of the smaller places when you’re here, but that’s tricky to do in advance.  AirBNB can be a very good option and relatively cheap.  With any accommodation, check the hours that they have electricty before booking.

Couchsurfing

Lebanon has an active Couchsurfing community.  Many people here host travellers and there are often events organised.  If you’re looking to meet local people, this is a great way to do it.  

Covid-19, PCR Tests and Entry Requirements

As of 28 September 2022, the Lebanese government cancelled all Covid-related requirements for entering Lebanon.  Once in the country there are also no longer restrictions and masks are not required.  

PCR tests are not required for departure from Beirut airport.  However, if you need one for your next destination, they can be obtained at many hospitals in Lebanon.  I have used Hotel Dieu de France hospital in the past. There’s also a lab that will send someone to your accommodation to do the test for you.  It’s very convenient and the results are available same day, sent via WhatsApp.  They can be contacted on WhatsApp at +961 3 444 925.  Wherever you do the test, it will have a QR code.  Prices vary depending on the exchange rate, but are generally around $10-12.

More about Lebanon

After two years living in Lebanon, I’ve visited almost every inch of the country.  You can read about my adventures here:

Jezzine Travel Guide

Why Visit Jezzine?  The picturesque village of Jezzine is perched high on a cliff top overlooking the incredible Jezzine waterfall - at 90m (295ft), one of the highest waterfalls in Lebanon.  It’s also practically surrounded by Bkassine forest, the largest pine forest...

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon As a Scot, I’m used to living in countries far bigger than my own.  Lebanon is the exception - the entire country is only about 200km long and 80km wide at its widest point.  So how, you might ask, can there be ‘remote...

Looking for even more great ideas?  Here’s another in-depth travel guide to Lebanon by Romana and Jakub at Broken Naviation, including hotel recommendations for all budgets (living here I don’t stay in hotels much).  They have some really beautiful photographs too.  Check it out here:

• How to Travel to Lebanon in 2022 & 11 Days Itinerary

Don’t forget to leave a comment below if you enjoyed the article or have questions!

Beirut is one crazy beautiful city in one crazy beautiful country. I can’t not love it.

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30 Comments

Wow, this is a great post. Thank you so much. We’re travelling to Lebanon for a week in May (9th – 15th) and were a bit unsure of what to see/do because of the crisis. This has helped a lot. I’m coming with a friend. Hit me up if you’d like to hang out.

Hey mate, great to hear the guide was helpful. I’m actually outside the country travelling Sudan at the moment (another amazing place), so won’t be around on those dates. Enjoy Lebanon!

I absolutely love this guide. I am a 50plus woman who travels around the world and I am in Egypt now. I want to go and spend a month there in June/July and would love to contact people who want to meet and Argentina my age or around my age. I am not rich, my country goes through the same struggles than Lebanon with the second highest inflation in the world. I do have a website on the works and I can recommend your site, I believe the only waay we can make a change is to share

Hi Monica, that’s great. I’m sure you’ll enjoy Lebanon a lot. For meeting people, you might want to try Couch Surfing. The community in Lebanon is quite active.

Thank you so much for the useful information. I’m travelling to Lebanon for a week in 30th May – 6th June and was uncertain of what to expect. You information has helped me feel more confident. I’m coming by myself as my partner can’t make it because of work commitments. Feel free to contact me if you’d like have a chat over drinks. PS I’m keen to go to Sudan and see the Pyramids there. Hope you enjoyed it.

Hi Morris. Great to hear that the information was helpful. I would definitely be up for meeting for a drink, as long as I’m in Lebanon at that time. Could you drop me a message on the quitandgotravel Instagram page? I don’t want to put my WhatsApp number on this page as it’ll inevitably get flooded with spam.

Sudan was amazing! Working on a guide for that now, but will take some time.

This is amazing, thank you so much for publishing this! I’ve had a hard time getting a real read on the situation. We are planning a trip in July, probably just Beirut for 4 or 5 days. Do you have any hotel recommendations?

Hi Katie, glad to hear it was useful. July is a great time to visit, the weather will be beautiful. Beirut is a great place to base yourself, but I would suggest to do at least a day trip to Byblos and the Jeita Grottoes. Regarding hotels, as I live here, I don’t stay in them and so don’t have specific recommendations. However, wherever you stay, the main thing to check is whether they have a generator and how many hours of power they have per day. Generally, the higher-end hotels have 24/7 power, whereas the lower-end ones could be just a few hours a day.

Hi Rowan, this was SO helpful, thank you! Hoping to visit May 27-June 4 but was nervous about the US government “level 3” travel advisory. I saw your disclaimer about the elections last week – how is the sentiment now?

Hi Lily, glad this was helpful. The elections have gone relatively peacefully, so hoping things will be back to normal by then. Time will tell, so feel free to reach out to me nearer the time to confirm.

Think your guide is really helpful mate. I’m looking to visit with my girlfriend for at least a week in Oct before flying on to India, but we will not hire a car to keep the costs down, so hopefully we can visit places like Byblos and Kadisha Valley by bus/shared taxi etc as we’d love to do some hiking. Thanks again.

Awesome mate, glad the guide was helpful. Lebanon is very doable with public transport (and maybe a bit of hitchhiking to Kadisha). Enjoy India!

Is the situation pretty unstable atm mate? Been looking at uk gov website and it seems to say avoid all but essential travel to Lebanon. Not going until Oct, so I hope thing may improve then, but would you say wait to see if it calms down a bit before booking flights, or just take the gov advice with a pinch of salt? As your blog seems to indicate its not too bad 🙂 sorry for the bombardment of questions!

Hey mate, already replied to your email, but for anyone else reading, government travel warnings tend to exaggerate. It’s actually very peaceful here at the moment. Lebanese people are very friendly and crime rates are low. In Lebanon, the situation can change quickly, but I wouldn’t let that put you off visiting.

Hi Rowan, thanks for sharing those helpful Informations. Do you know if there is a possibility to get from Bcharré to Baalbek by public transportation in September

Hi Miriam. Glad the blog has been useful. Unfortunately, there is no public transport from Bcharré to Baalbek. By public transport, you’d need to go back to Beirut and then over the main highway to Baalbek, which is a huge detour. However, I’m sure you could hitchhike it without much difficultly. Lebanese people are very friendly and a female friend of mine who was volunteering in Anjar the past few weeks hitchhiked all over the country without problems.

Wowwwww I was just looking around, totally unsure about Lebanon and feeling no way I could Really do it but your post has totally changed my mind.

I hope to meet you for a coffee hello.

~A Solo woman traveller

Ps, Pls let me know your thoughts on overland travel from jordan through syria.

Hey, glad the blog helped inspire you! Overland travel from Jordan is possible with an organised tour, as that’s generally the only way to get the visa. It’s expensive but doable and I’ve spoken with people who’ve done it. A coffee sounds good, drop me a message on Insta @quitandgotravel when you know the dates.

This post re Lebanon is fantastic. I’m traveling alone; do you have any tour guide recommendations? Also, if you’re up for a cup of coffee and a chat, I’ll be there the first week of July.

Hi Stacy, great to hear the post is useful. I never use tour guides (except in North Korea, where it’s mandatory), so can’t recommend one. However, Lebanon is very doable solo. I’d definitely be up for a coffee and should be here that week. Can you drop me a message on Insta? @quitandgotravel

This blog was really helpful – I’m a solo female traveler and have been looking to go to Beirut to visit my friend’s dog and bring him doggie treats (and I guess say hi to my friend too and bring human treats) but with everything that has happened in the past two years it has been a bit difficult to get it organised. Due to my nationality it also appears the visa process will take longer than normal in my current country of residence. I would rather not have to get my (human) friend send some sort of invitation letter in order for me to get a visa, but I guess I’ll just have to see and try and Lebanese Embassy. I look forward to reading more of your blog.

Your poor friend, I can see that he or she is definitely second to the dog! Good luck with the visa though, I hope you get it sorted out okay, and thanks for your kind comments.

Thanks so much for this guide. I’m Lebanese background and even I found it very very useful. My Aussie partner and I are going to Lebanon in September and I’m wondering which neighbourhood to book our Airbnb. We want to be able to walk all of Beirut, prefer to flush toilet paper down the toilet haha and want to be walking distance to cafes, bars and be able to walk home safely afterwards (or is it safer to get a service/taxi?). Also did you have any issues with being overcharged for things? Memories of taxi drivers taking me around the block a couple of times in Syria and charging me double haha

Hi Lili. Great to hear that my blog is even useful to Lebanese! For AirBNBs, Gemayze is probably the best Neighborhood. It’s walking distance to most things and has power more often than Hamra, so is less dark. Beirut is still very safe and walkable, even now. I think it’s a cultural thing, but despite the ever increasing poverty levels, crime rates are still low here. Most people are pretty honest, so rip offs are not common. The worst are taxis, especially from the airport, so use Uber or Bolt and set the app to pay cash (don’t pay more than 200,000 LBP from the airport).

Rowan, as others have said this is a great blog. Many thanks for all this info. I am a keen cyclist but cannot find any of the major adventure tour companies who offer cycling holidays in Lebanon. Do you know of any cycling organisations in Lebanon who might be able to help me put together an itinerary.

Hi David. I’m happy you liked the blog. I focus on independent travel, so not sure about tour companies to be honest. I don’t think cycling is a big thing here though (drivers are not so considerate), but that said, it could be a good way to see the country.

I had planned a trip to Lebanon in May 2020 (tickets paid for and everything) but Covid happened. Since then, Lebanon had gone through some significant changes like the economic crisis, etc, and I was really unsure if this year was the right time to be visiting Lebanon; was thinking of doing so in December.

Your blog had really helped, it is positive yet realistic. I am leaning heavily on traveling to Lebanon this year.

I heard it is easy to do a day trip to Damascus from Beirut? Have you done this trip? If so, was it a good experience?

Hi Ivy. Great to hear that you’re planning to visit Lebanon. Keep your eye on the news, but if it stays like it is now, you’ll have a great time. Day trips to Damascus are easily arranged. I don’t like organised tours, so I haven’t done one. I’m still working on the visa now, but hope to visit Syria independently for a couple of weeks in the near future.

Thank you so much for all this great information. My husband & am planning to move to Jadra, Lebanon with in the next year and I am doing research now and came across your blog. Any information you can send me in a email would be much appreciated. I have never traveled outside the U.S. . We plan on visiting for 2 weeks before we actually move there.

Hey that’s awesome that you’re moving here to Lebanon. It’s a wonderful country. Jadra is an interesting choice of location though! Most of the relevant information is in the blog, but feel free to let me know if you have specific questions.

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What’s it Really Like to Travel Lebanon?

Adventurous Kate contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I will earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks!

When I decided to travel Lebanon, I had little idea what to expect. There’s not a ton of information on the web, and very few travel bloggers have traveled there or written about it.

It was a bit of a question mark. But that was exactly what I wanted.

My mission has always been to show women how to travel the world safely. At the same time, though, I’ve always felt the urge to be a bit different — to write about places that don’t get the same coverage. In 2010, that meant doing an extended trip exclusively in Southeast Asia (believe it or not, that was very unusual back then!). In 2018, that meant exploring places like Lebanon when every other blogger seems to focus on massively overtouristed destinations like Iceland, Bali, and Barcelona.

And so I went to Lebanon in May 2018. I treated the trip like a fact-finding mission and spent a week exploring the small country as much as possible, experiencing what it’s like to travel Lebanon as a woman on her own so I could share the results with all of you.

So, what’s Lebanon actually like? I’m glad you asked.

Is Lebanon Safe?

Lebanon is much safer than people think it is, not unlike many destinations in the Middle East.  The media paints the image of war, suicide bombers, and riots, but this is nothing like what you would see in Lebanon (or the vast majority of the Middle East) today.

Lebanon has had wars in the past…like from 1975 to 1990. As in it ended when George H. W. Bush was president. More recently, a 34-day war took place in 2006 between Hezbollah and Israeli Defense Forces. That was 12 years ago, when George W. Bush was president. There hasn’t been a war in the 12 years since.

The violence that happens in Lebanon today is random and somewhat rare — not unlike mass shootings in the United States. I would argue that Lebanon is far safer than the US in this regard, as there are far fewer guns in Lebanon and there are checkpoints and military personnel everywhere.

So what does Lebanon actually feel like? It feels peaceful. It feels normal. It feels quite a bit like traveling in the southern Balkans, actually — between the Mediterranean setting, war scars in the distant past, and hovering the line between developing and developed. Not once did I ever feel remotely in danger.

I took safely seriously. I didn’t travel to refugee camps or the unsafe far northeast of the country just for the hell of it, and after hearing mixed reviews from locals, I decided to nix Tripoli, which in retrospect was probably excessively cautious.

This post by Against the Compass is an excellent resource for travel safety in Lebanon. It’s updated periodically with the latest safety information. I encourage you to save it and take a closer look before your trip.

I also recommend checking out the  US State Department travel advisory and UK travel safety advice  for Lebanon. I find that the US warnings tend to be more alarmist, while the UK warnings tend to be more realistic.

Most importantly, travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — and to anywhere else in the world, frankly. If you need to be hospitalized with a broken bone or appendicitis, or if you have an emergency and miss your trip, or if you get robbed on a bus, travel insurance will help you recoup your financial losses. I use and recommend World Nomads .

Lebanon is a small country.

Almost everywhere in Lebanon can be reached within 2.5 hours of driving from Beirut. For that reason, I found it most efficient to base myself in Beirut and take day trips from there.

But beyond the convenience, Beirut is such a cool city. Most Middle Easterners consider it to be the most sophisticated city in the region, not least because it’s far more liberal than other parts of the Middle East. I was there during Ramadan and people were still drinking and partying in the streets. (In Dubai, you can’t even eat in public during Ramadan.)

Beirut is home to epic clubs, like B-108, a former bunker where the roof retracts and you dance beneath the stars. You can spend the days sunning yourself at beach clubs with pools or shopping in luxury at the souks. And yes, hipster neighborhoods exist in Beirut — check out Mar Mikhael, or specifically, Gourad/Armenia Street, which is full of tons of cool restaurants and bars.

I stayed at the Radisson Blu Martinez , which is a nice, if somewhat dated, hotel and is in a central location in the Hamra neighborhood. I paid around $75 per night.

Find deals on hotels in Beirut here .

Lebanon has little travel infrascture.

One thing that sets Lebanon apart from more popular Middle Eastern destinations like Israel, Jordan, Egypt, and the UAE is that there’s much less travel infrastructure. What does that mean?

There are hotels, but they’re more oriented toward business and domestic travelers. Transportation around the country is limited. There is essentially one company with that does day tours around the country and has a web presence. ONE COMPANY. And if you think you’re going to find a tourism office in each town you visit, you’re crazy.

Hell, Lonely Planet doesn’t even have a Lebanon guidebook — just a Lebanon chapter in the Middle East guidebook (which I downloaded to keep on my phone, and I recommend you get it for your trip, too).

That means that travel planning is more of a challenge, and most of your traveling will be amongst locals. That’s one reason why I don’t think Lebanon is a good country for newbie travelers, only more experienced ones.

Most of the other tourists I met in Lebanon were from Europe or other parts of the Middle East. I also met several expats from other countries who were based in Dubai.

Lebanon has outstanding Roman ruins.

If you love Ancient Rome in the least, you must check out two outstanding sets of ruins: Baalbek and Anjer. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Beqaa Valley. The Jupiter Temple at Baalbek is one of the largest Roman temples on the planet. You don’t appreciate the true scale of it until you’re standing in the middle of it!

Also notable are the ruins of Tyre and Byblos, both of which are perched beautifully on the Mediterranean. Both of those are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, too. Basically, if you’re into ruins, you’ll have a great time in Lebanon.

The driving in Lebanon is INSANE.

A lot of countries have crazy driving, which shouldn’t come as a surprise to a seasoned traveler. Lebanon is yet another one of them.

I always describe crazy driving in other countries as either Vietnamese-style or Maltese-style. In Vietnam, the driving is crazy, but the drivers all follow an established set of (somewhat ludicrous) rules. In Malta, the driving is reckless with no regard for any drivers or pedestrians. In my opinion, Lebanon falls into the Vietnamese category — it’s chaotic, but everyone is on the same page.

For this reason, I don’t recommend driving in Lebanon unless you are an expert driver who relishes driving in crazy environments. We all have a friend who is into challenging driving — this is their place to shine. If that’s not you, I urge you not to drive in Lebanon. You’ll leave with far fewer gray hairs as a result.

Red roses bloom everywhere in Lebanon.

That’s just a lovely perk of traveling in Lebanon. I doubt this happens year-round, but my trip in late May and early June was resplendent with roses. (Related: the rose emoji is very popular in the Arabic-speaking world. Think of it as the Middle East’s “100.”)

Lebanon is both very Middle Eastern and very European.

Lebanon wears many identities at once.  You’ll find mosques and churches practically next door to each other in Beirut. Some Lebanese people speak French and dress western-style, while others speak only Arabic and dress as their ancestors have for centuries. There is also a huge Armenian community in Beirut.

Byblos (Jbeil), for example, felt very European. With the fancy boats, high-end restaurants, and women in sundresses, their long hair flowing, it felt almost literally like Trogir, Croatia, or Budva, Montenegro. Only the souk would tip you off that you were in the Middle East.

But on the bus to Tyre (Sour), women were totally covered up and none spoke any English. That felt much more like Amman or central Turkey. It’s amazing that you can have both of these kinds of experiences within a short drive of Beirut — or even without leaving Beirut!

The Cedars of Lebanon still exist — but they’re a fraction of what they once were.

The Cedars of God are some of the most famous trees in the world. In ancient times, endless forests grew over the mountains in Lebanon. The trees were lauded for their strength and used for shipbuilding and later railroad-building.

But over time, deforestation took the trees away from us, and there are very few left today. I went to see the Cedars of God park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I almost wish I hadn’t gone — it just left me feeling so sad to see so few cedars left.

Hezbollah controls some territory in Lebanon.

Hezbollah is classified as a terrorist organization by several governments, including the US and EU, and they control some of the land in the eastern part of the country, including the Beqaa Valley. This includes the ruins of Baalbek and Anjer.

This might sound scary on the surface, and there has been violence in this region in the past, but for the most part, it’s a peaceful place to visit today. I visited on a tour (though you can also visit with a hired driver) and we went through several checkpoints, as is customary in Lebanon, but beyond that you wouldn’t notice any difference.

There was one strange thing, though — the yellow Hezbollah flag was for sale everywhere. It was like a souvenir. I did not partake.

To keep an eye on current developments in the Beqaa Valley and other regions in Lebanon, I recommend following this map .

Lebanon has lots of day trips from Beirut.

There are three primary ways to travel around Lebanon:

• Hire a driver.
• Take a group tour.
• Take public transportation.

I decided to try all three of these over the course of my trip.

Hiring a private driver is the best-case scenario because it allows you to time your visits for photography and you’re not on anyone else’s schedule. However, it’s also the most expensive. Most private driver rates start at $185 per day; I was once offered $150 per day; you may be able to bring it down to $100 per day if you have a Lebanese friend who “knows a guy” (and most Lebanese do). That was more than I wanted to spend as a solo traveler.

Because of that, I decided to just use Uber to get myself to Jeita Grotto and Byblos and back to Beirut. There was no wifi at Jeita Grotto (and I had no SIM card), so I bargained a ride with a local to get from the grotto to Byblos. Later, took awhile to find an Uber driver willing to pick me up in Byblos, but I eventually got one!

Here are some of the most popular tours:

• Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara — I did this tour and recommend it. See two sets of ruins (Anjar and Baalbek) that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, then go wine tasting in Ksara.
• Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya — I did this tour and recommend it if you want to see the Cedars and/or a lot of mountain scenery; otherwise, I don’t think it’s essential. Know that the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Cedars park is tiny, but a nice walk. Bcharré is home to an unremarkable Gibran museum but a GORGEOUS view; Kozhaya is home to a very cool monastery carved into the rocks.
• Byblos, Jeita Grotto and Harissa — I visited Byblos and Jeita Grotto via Uber/taxi but skipped Harissa. I don’t think it’s necessary to do this as a group tour; it’s close to Beirut. I preferred doing my own thing and having time to explore. Byblos is a gorgeous village home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Harissa has outstanding views down to the coast, and Jeita Grotto is home to glorious cave systems underground (and no photography is allowed).
• Tyre, Sidon and Maghdouche — I visited Tyre via public transportation and could have easily added Sidon as well; I don’t think this one is necessary to do as a group tour. Tyre is a great little city home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Sidon is famous for its souks and Sea Castle, and Maghdouche has some great views.
• There’s also an Anjar, Baalbek and Kozhaya tour that combines the ruins of the Beqaa Valley with the Cedars in a slightly longer trip. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have done it to give myself an extra day.

As for public transportation, I would have done much more of it if I had known how easy it would be! I simply got an Uber to the minibus station (Cola Intersection), asked for “Sour?” (the Arabic name for Tyre), and got pointed to a bus.

There are some unwritten rules for taking minibuses in Lebanon: ask for the bus you need; the first two rows are unofficially reserved for women; men do not sit next to women unless there’s nowhere else to sit; tell the driver when to stop and pay him on the way out. Women should dress more conservatively (long sleeves and pants) and wear headphones if you don’t want to talk to anyone.

Solo female travel in Lebanon is safe and wonderful.

This was the most pleasant surprise in Lebanon — that I received so much respect.  I didn’t know what to expect and was on my guard.

I took the bus from Beirut to Tyre, and I was told by my friend beforehand that the front two rows are unofficially reserved for women, and men don’t sit next to women unless there’s no other room. Well, there wasn’t any room on the way back from Tyre, which made me nervous. But the man who sat next to me left a good six inches between us on the seats.

Can you believe that? Men in New York won’t even close their legs on the subway, aggressively spreading out as much as they can. Lebanon almost made me cry with happiness.

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: A Guide

I also didn’t get stared at, which blew my mind. As a white woman traveling solo, I’m used to being stared at in the Middle East and many other places in the world.

It helped that I dressed more conservatively for the most part, including covering to my elbows, neck, and ankles in more conservative areas, though you could get away with wearing more revealing clothing in Beirut and Byblos.

I must include that Lebanon wasn’t perfect — just as I was marveling about what a good time I was having in Tyre, a man rode by on a bicycle and made kissing noises at me. Well. That happens pretty much everywhere in the world except Japan, so it shouldn’t be surprising. I get harassed three times on the walk home from the subway. It’s part of life as a woman.

Altogether: harassment was minimal, and I was grateful for that.

Lebanese food is DELICIOUS.

Middle Eastern food is outstanding — and Lebanon is often said to have the best food in the region.   As soon as I arrived, the first dish I had to have was some moutabal (roasted eggplant and tahini dip) with some mint lemonade.

Lebanon’s cuisine is based on mezze — small plates. You’ll definitely have pita with hummus, falafel, baba ghanouj, tabbouleh, grape leaves, pickled vegetables — and I won’t lie, often French fries. Next up is often a variety of roasted meats, especially lamb or goat or chicken, or seafood if you’re on the coast, with rice or vegetable dishes, or delicious stews. And the coffee is potent, served in tiny cups.

Almost everything that I had in Lebanon was delicious, whether it was a streetside shwarma in Tyre or a plate of square-cut, oil-drenched grilled calamari in Byblos.

Lebanon is also a fantastic destination for vegetarians and vegans.  You can always plenty of delicious plant-based options.

Lebanon has good wine, too.

Lebanon is one of very few Middle Eastern countries where you’ll find a decent wine scene. If you visit the ruins at Baalbek or Anjer, whether on a tour or with a private driver, it’s common to stop at a winery on the way back. We visited Chateau Ksara as part of our Baalbek/Anjer tour, and I would recommend it to others. Enjoy it!

You can go skiing and hit the beach in the same day in Lebanon.

I don’t even ski, but this is something I want to do sometime — go skiing and hit the beach in the same day just because I can . Lots of destinations brag that you can do this — Southern California, Slovenia, Andalusia — and Lebanon is yet another.

Don’t expect the slopes to be on par with Colorado, but there are a number of ski resorts around the country. Then come down to lie on the beach in Byblos or Tyre or at a beach club in Beirut. Just because you can!

Lebanese people are amazing.

People are amazing everywhere, though. I believe that everywhere in the world is made up of 98% wonderful people and 2% assholes. Most people are good people, and if they’re not, they’re probably having a rough day. Lebanon was no exception: I was warmly welcomed everywhere I went.

Arabic hospitality is legendary, though, and I was spoiled again and again by new Lebanese friends I met on my trip. Nobody would let me pay for a thing! It blew my mind.

I bought an orange juice from this mother and son pictured above, and even though they spoke no English and I spoke about five words of Arabic, we tried to communicate with each other as best we could, laughing like crazy. I’m pretty sure they tried to set me up with her older son, showing me Instagram photos of him perched in front of scenic overlooks, a dramatic pout on his face. (This happens a lot when you travel solo!)

To my great surprise, I was constantly asked if I was here visiting family. When I said no, people were often shocked. “But your parents are Lebanese?” they would ask me. (Come to think of it, when I was in Jordan in 2011, my guide Ibrahim told me I couldn’t pass for Jordanian, but I looked like I had one Lebanese parent.) And I feel like I met a ton of people who looked like me in Lebanon. Far more than usual.

Being ethnically ambiguous is hugely beneficial on my travels — I’m able to blend in far more easily than an Irish redhead could. But that has also led to wonderful experiences, where locals have claimed me as one of their own, declaring that their blood must run through my veins — “Look at your eyes! Look at your nose! You’re obviously one of us!”

Lebanon is best for experienced travelers.

I’ll be completely honest here: I would not recommend Lebanon to novice travelers unless you have contacts here, family here, or people willing to host you. It’s a beautiful country, a friendly country, and an interesting country, but it’s not an easy or obvious country in which to travel.

Let me give you an example: when on the minibus back from Tyre, the driver got to Beirut, got sick of the traffic, and decided he just wanted to drop me off in the middle of a major intersection. Lovely. I had to figure out how to cross a multi-lane street, how to flag down a totally-not-official taxi, meaning some random guy in a random car (I had no SIM card, therefore no Uber), and get back to my place from there. Not that hard for a seasoned traveler, but I wouldn’t want to send a newbie traveler into a situation like that!

At the same time, Lebanon is awesome, but it’s not a showstopper.  In my opinion, the true showstopper of the Middle East is Jordan. Lebanon whispers rather than sings at the top of its lungs, and sometimes that’s exactly what I want in a destination.

If you’re going to the Middle East for the first time, I still recommend Jordan above all. Jordan has the best mix of safety, outstanding cultural sites, natural beauty, a wide variety of things to do, and infrastructure for travelers. I think it outdoes Lebanon on almost every level, though I think Beirut is a much cooler city than Amman.

Jordan: The Perfect Introduction to the Middle East

But if you’ve already done some travel in the Middle East and you’re looking for an interesting new destination, and especially if you’re looking for a cool major city, Lebanon is a fabulous choice for you.

And at this point in time, it’s still a relatively offbeat destination. In an age where everyone is going to Iceland and Bali and Barcelona, Lebanon makes a nice change from everyone else in your Instagram feed.

Lebanon pairs well with some destinations — and poorly with others.

One reason why I visited Lebanon was because I was planning to visit Cyprus, pictured above, and the two countries are only a 45-minute flight apart. It was natural to pair them together! The two countries have so much in common in some ways, but are completely different in others.

I flew to Beirut from Amsterdam via Istanbul on Pegasus Airlines, which makes Turkey a great destination to combine with Lebanon. Thanks to direct flights, you can easily combine Lebanon with a trip to Jordan, Egypt, or the UAE.

However, Lebanon does not pair well with Israel. You can’t visit Lebanon if you have evidence of Israel or the Palestinian Territories in your passport (and even though Israeli officials often don’t stamp your passport, Lebanese officials look for exit stamps from Jordan or Egypt). Israel will let you in with a Lebanon stamp, but expect to be grilled about your visit.

How to get around this? Fly into Israel and don’t let them stamp you. Or renew your passport before going to Lebanon. Or get a second passport, if your country allows you to do so (the US does). Or just visit Israel after Lebanon.

More on Lebanon:

13 Stunning Places to Visit in Lebanon

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: Is it Safe?

Essential Info: For my trip I bought the Lebanon chapter in Lonely Planet’s Middle East guidebook , which I downloaded on my phone and found very useful.

In Lebanon I stayed at the  Radisson Blu Martinez  in Beirut, which was a quality, if dated, hotel and was centrally located in the Hamra neighborhood. Rates from $75. Find deals on more Beirut hotels here and see all Beirut Airbnbs here .

In Beirut and sometimes beyond (as far as Byblos), I used Uber to get around. It was cheap and easy. I recommend getting a SIM card if you can; I didn’t and it made it impossible to summon Ubers when I didn’t have wifi.

During my trip I took three tours: the Free Walking Tour of Beirut (remember to tip your guide), a paid day trip to  Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya , and a paid day trip to  Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara . I traveled independently via public minibus to Tyre via Sidon (Saïda) and via Uber and taxi to Jeita Grotto and Byblos.

Bring good shoes to Lebanon. I have bad arches and live in comfy but cute shoes from The Walking Company . I strongly recommend black ABEO flats , which have fantastic arch support. I wore them every day in Lebanon. You might also like a pair of black boots  if you’re visiting in the chillier months.

Bring a crossbody purse that zips to keep your belongings close and safe. Amazon has lots of affordable options . If you want to spend more, Rebecca Minkoff makes some of the best . You can also check out my guide to the best travel purses .

Travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — whether you trip on the steps at Baalbek’s temples and break your ankle, or get robbed on a bus in Beirut, or if you have to cancel your trip due to an emergency, travel insurance will sort you out. I use and recommend World Nomads .

Have you traveled to Lebanon? Does it seem like your kind of destination?

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Is it safe to travel to Lebanon right now? Latest travel advice

Now that fighting has escalated, people have been warned against travelling to the country

Amid growing fears of the Middle East conflict escalating, countries such as the US, UK, Australia, France, Canada, South Korea, Saudi Arabia, Italy, Japan, Türkiye and Jordan have urged their citizens to leave Lebanon as soon as possible. Flights to and from the country’s only commercial airport in Beirut have already been suspended or cancelled. 

Here is everything you need to know about the official travel advice about travelling to Lebanon right now. 

Is it safe to travel to Lebanon at the moment? 

No, due to the escalating likelihood of conflict, all advice warns firmly against travelling to Lebanon right now, and leaving as soon as possible if you’re already there. 

What has the Foreign Office said? 

As of yesterday, Sunday August 4, the UK Foreign Office updated its travel advice to warn against all travel to Lebanon. The information reads as follows: ‘The security situation in Lebanon is volatile and can deteriorate quickly. Violence may occur: as a result of the conflict affecting Lebanon , between security forces and protestors, between supporters of political groups, over scarce or subsidised resources.

‘Confrontations often happen without warning, and can result in large numbers of casualties. Security forces may use tear gas and rubber bullets during clashes. 

‘Weapons are common in Lebanon and groups such as Hezbollah have arms that are beyond state control. Arguments can quickly escalate into violence, including the use of weapons, typically firearms and bladed weapons.

‘Celebratory gunfire is illegal in Lebanon but remains widespread. Every year there are reported casualties. Regional and international developments such as in Syria, Iraq and Israel, can have an impact on the local security situation. Monitor the regional situation whilst in Lebanon. FCDO continues to advise against all travel to Lebanon. If you are currently in Lebanon, we encourage you to leave, while commercial options remain available.’

Evacuation plan

According to the Evening Standard , the Foreign Office has also said: ‘Do not rely on [the Foreign Office] being able to evacuate you in an emergency. You should have a personal emergency plan that does not rely on the UK Government. This may include the ability to leave quickly or to shelter in place if you judge it necessary and safe to do so.’

Airlines such as Lufthansa, Swiss, Eurowings and Air France have already suspended some of their Beirut-bound flights, but people in Lebanon are being encouraged to use commercial options to leave while they’re still available. 

According to the Guardian , the UK has stepped up possible evacuation preparations, and consular experts, border force officials and military personnel have been deployed in the region to help. What’s more, landing ships RFA Cardigan Bay and HMS Duncan are already located in the eastern Mediterranean, and the air force has put transport helicopters on standby, too.

Stay in the loop: sign up to our free Time Out Travel newsletter for all the latest travel news. 

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Ultimate 10-Day Lebanon Itinerary for Your Perfect Road Trip

Lebanon is not a big country, but it is packed with fun things to do and amazing things to see. But how can you experience all that in only 10 days? I put together the ultimate 10-day Lebanon itinerary that makes a perfect road trip.

From central buzzing Beirut to Northern Tripoli and Southern Tyre. From Cedars to snow and the amazing Bekaa Valley. I’ll show you the things to do in Lebanon in 10 days and how you can arrange everything yourself.

I paid for everything in full myself. I was not paid or sponsored. All my opinions and experiences are my own.

Probe around the Globe does use affiliate links. If you decide to follow one of my links and make a purchase, I’ll earn a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you.

Ultimate 10-Day Lebanon Itinerary

10 Days in Lebanon

When I first started looking into going to Lebanon, I didn’t know how many days in Lebanon would be enough. I figured 1 week in Lebanon would feel a bit rushed and hectic.

I decide to fly in on a Thursday evening and I found a flight out on a Sunday evening.

This would give me 1 solid day of travel, arriving late in Beirut and 10 whole days to explore the country.

I absolutely loved it!

Actually, it has been 2 months since I’m back and I’m already putting Lebanon back on my list of places I want to visit.

About my 10-day Lebanon itinerary

I’m from the Netherlands and I traveled to Lebanon as a solo female traveler in my mid 30’s. I choose to rent a car but also used local transport for one of my day trips.

In the past, I’ve traveled solo to Turkey , Iran , Morocco, and Jordan , as well as Peru and Bolivia and most part of Europe. 

I knew Lebanon would be expensive, so I tried to find the cheapest places but still with a lot of comforts, like the perfect location, private rooms, breakfast included, free parking and decent reviews.

If I wanted to, I could have saved a bit more money if I would have picked shared accommodation like hostels or stayed in Beirut for 10 days.

As you can read below, I didn’t do that but I did make conscious decisions about the tours I did or didn’t take, mainly based on my budget and value for money.

I traveled to Lebanon in April. My last few days in Lebanon were around Easter. The first few days were lovely and sunny, after this, storms came in and I saw a lot of rain. It was also very cold and the weather was unpredictable. This influenced my trip quite a bit.

Top Things to do in Lebanon

This post is intended to help you decide what you can do in Lebanon in 10 days.

And how to arrange it yourself.

Below I walk you through the logistics of each travel day, what you can see and do in Lebanon, how to get there and where to stay.

If you’re interested in a particular location, jump straight ahead, otherwise, I’ll take you on my 10 days in Lebanon in chronological order.

• Day 0: Arrive in Beirut, Lebanon
• Day 1: Explore Beirut
• Day 2: Sidon & Tyre
• Day 3: Jeita Grotto, cable car to Our Lady of Lebanon and Jbeil/Byblos
• Day 4: Batroun and 2 Roman Ruins, Tripoli
• Day 5: Qadisha Valley, Cedars of God or Horsh Ehden National Park
• Day 6: Hiking in Qadisha Valley
• Day 7: Tannourine Cedars National Park and Baalbek
• Day 8: Anjar and Zahlé
• Day 9: Shouf National Park
• Day 10: Beiteddine, Moussa Castle, Deir el-Qamar village

My Ultimate Lebanon travel itinerary

I always try to pack as much into these shorter and smaller country trips.

My days were quite full and I didn’t allocate any time to lazy on the beach or go for days of skiing or snowboarding.

If that is what you’d like to do, make sure to add an extra day or two to your itinerary. Here is what I did with my 10 days in Lebanon.

Arrive at Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport

I arrived in Beirut at around 8 pm and I call this day 0. I went through customs and I had a taxi driver waiting for me with my name on a sign.

We went to the downstairs car park and from there, made our way to Beirut.

I learned all the prices for a pre-arranged taxi from the airport to Beirut (Hamra) are all the same. I arranged one with my hotel, but you can also use Allo Taxi app or book your Taxi transfer here.

3 nights in Beirut

I checked into the J Hotel and Spa , in downtown Hamra neighborhood. I stayed here for 3 nights, allowing for 2 full days in Beirut.

The place was lovely with its own fridge, AC that was working, and generous comfortable beds. The people at the reception were also very helpful and their breakfast was exuberant. 

I choose the Hamra neighborhood because it is the advised area to stay in. It is central, there are 100 places to stay and it has loads of restaurant options and evening activities. 

On my first evening, I went to a local mobile phone shop and bought a SIM card for Lebanon. As a blogger/ modern traveler, I cannot live without the internet.

During my recent trips to Iran and Jordan , I experienced it was so effortless to rely on my mobile phone working without WiFi, it was a no-brainer for me. For 50$ I got a sim card with 5GB of data and some minutes to make calls, which I didn’t use. 

If you want to hit the town running and not miss a thing, consider a Beirut Night Tour to explore the city by night. Starts at 6 pm so only possible when you’ll arrive earlier than I did. Check for more details here .

1-day walking tour around Beirut

To be honest with you. I’m not a big city person.

Looking at the map of Beirut, I felt immediately intimidated by the maze of streets and the lack of overview.

That is why I only allowed myself 2 days in Beirut, of which one I would get out of the city.

If fine dining, vibrant nightlife and shopping are your things, you must add at least 2 full days to your itinerary to spend in Beirut.

I decided to go on a self-guided walking tour of Beirut on my first day in the country. I wanted to see some sites and experience some of the Beirut’s life. It was wonderful!

I left the hotel around 11 am and I started walking until I couldn’t walk anymore. It was roughly 5 pm when I arrived back at my hotel. I just marked interesting things on my google maps and walked around the city.

If you feel like you need a bit more guidance, you can join a Beirut walking tour here:

• Beirut Bites Food Tour (food and walking!)
• Historical Walking Tour (focusses on history)
• 4h Beirut City Tour (incl. transport)
• 7h Beirut Tour (incl. transport so not that much walking)

I took my time, wandering around the streets, taking pictures and making video snippets. I had a long lunch and walked the whole Corniche as it was a lovely day (and got a sunburn!)

If you don’t like walking, Beirut now also offers a Hop on Hop off tour. Make sure to check it out here .

Day Trip to Sidon and Tyre

For my second day in Beirut, I choose to leave the city and go south. I took a day trip to Sidon (Saida) and Tyre (Sour). These two smaller cities are easily combined and make for a nice full day trip. I set out early, around 8 am and got back at my hotel in Beirut around 6 pm. 

I chose for local transport, mainly because I wanted to have my own experiences with local transport as many people use Beirut as a base, and explore the rest of the country from Beirut. And I must say: it is perfectly safe and doable. 

I found the minibusses not so comfortable though, and it took some time to fill them up. If you’re traveling in a larger group things might speed up a bit but overall, I was exhausted from a day of sightseeing by local transport.

I first went to Tyre and explored the Tyre Necropolis and the Roman Hippodrome. It was marvelous and I absolutely loved it. It was one of the (many) highlights of my 10-day trip to Lebanon and can highly recommend it. 

I continued to downtown Tyre where I visited another set of Roman ruins and had the best and cheapest lunch during my time in Lebanon. I’m actually contemplation going back to Tyre to eat once again at this small kebab shop.

After Tyre, I visited Sidon and the Crusader castle in town. I found it a bit disappointing and wandered around the Souk. You can also visit the soap museum but I choose to find the remote ruins of Eshmoun.

Road Trip Itinerary for Lebanon

The next morning was a Sunday and I made my way back to the airport early morning. I didn’t go to the airport to fly home, but to pick up my rental car!

On Sunday, all the rental car offices are closed so I had to go to the airport.

But this allowed me to drive through Beirut on the least busy day of the week. I compared prices for rental cars at Beirut airport here , and found the best rate for my road trip. 

Driving or Day Trips from Beirut?

Now, I hear you think: driving in Lebanon?

I think everyone and their mother will discourage you from driving in Lebanon.

But I did it and I actually found it quite easy. Y

es, Beirut was crazy hectic and I definitely recommend to avoid driving in Beirut. But otherwise, I found the freedom to explore more remote places invaluable.

It actually made my trip. 

Yes, I might have pissed some drivers off with my more than polite driving skills, but other than that, I don’t think it is that bad.

Day 3: Drive to Jbeil/Byblos

This day can also be done very well as a day trip from Beirut, I’ll give some suggestions at the bottom. But let’s assume you did like me and you rented a car, so I can continue my story.

I whizzed through Beirut, sweaty palms and cars overtaking me left, right and center. Yes, the first few miles were a bit intimidating but I soon got the hang of it and once I left Beirut behind, traffic numbers dwindled and I basically had the road to myself.

Jeita Grotto

One of the most see things in Lebanon and a mandatory stop on your Lebanon travel itinerary is Jeita Grotto. I contemplated skipping Jeita Grotto, as the entrance price is quite steep, but decided to do it regardless. And I’m glad I did because I absolutely loved it.

I parked the car for a small fee, got my ticket and hopped on the first cable car up the mountains. There, I had to store my phone, camera, and GoPro in a locker as filming or photography is not allowed.

I entered the Grotto which is basically a cave with a well-lit pathway through it, guiding you to one amazing formation of stalactites and stalagmites after another.

Some were free-standing, others formed sheets hanging from the walls, and yet another arose in the middle of the path. I was definitely wowed. You can walk all the way to the back of the Grotto to climb via a staircase to a viewing platform before you have to return the same way you came.

After this, we all got in a touristic train and were brought to the lower cave. Here we would make a small boat ride on the Grotto’s inner lake. It was only 10 minutes but absolutely spectacular.

Being out on the water, inside a grotto, surrounded by dripping stalactites was impressive.

The whole visit took maybe an hour or 1,5 hour but it was a quiet day. If the Jeita Grotto is busier, you might need to allocate more time for waiting in line to go inside or on the boat trip. I visited early morning before the crowds and the buses.

Cable Car to Our Lady of Lebanon

Another popular thing to do in Lebanon and usually combined with a day trip to Jeita Grotto is a ride on the cable car to Our Lady of Lebanon.

As I drove by in my rental car, the line up to the mountains looked impressive and I’m sure you have a spectacular view. However, when I was there, a big storm was rolling in from the Mediterranean and visibility was poor so the cable car wasn’t operating.

If you don’t like to rent a car and drive yourself, you can always hire a driver from Beirut who brings you to Jeita Grotto and the Cable Car. Make it a full day to include Byblos too.

The common rate seemed to be 100$ per day for a private driver. You can also do this as a day trip from Beirut, but you have to take the local buses and take a taxi to Jeita Grotto from the main road. 

Go on a guided day trip to Jeita Grotto, the cable car and Byblos with a licensed guide. Check for options here .

Explore Byblos

From Jeita Grotto, I drove straight to Byblos. I arrived around 2 pm and could already check into the Aleph Boutique Hotel . I picked it because it has free parking in front of the hotel and is situated right at the turn off of the main road.

And it looked absolutely ‘boutique’ and lovely. At their exorbitant breakfast, I discovered it has a 180-degree view of the coastline and the ruins of Byblos. I highly recommend this hotel for your Lebanon itinerary.

For the rest of the afternoon, I explored the old Souk of Jbeil and visited the castle and ruins of Byblos. I loved the relaxed vibe in the small city. On this Sunday afternoon, the small streets were packed with families having lunch, I heard music everywhere and the village was bustling with sounds and smells. 

I spend nearly 1.5 hours exploring Byblos Castle and its ruins which contain several layers of history, from the Phoenicians to the Romans, Greeks, and Crusaders.

After my visit, I walked to the old harbor, stopping at the St. John-Marc Cathedral and admiring the fierce waves crashing on the beach. I absolutely adored Jbeil and I wish I could have stayed longer.

If 1 day is all you’ll have, visit Jbeil and Byblos on a day trip from Beirut .

Day 4: Drive to Tripoli

Today, I intend to make good use of my rental car. I first went to Batroun and then visited 2 very remote Roman ruins in the mountains before I went to Tripoli.

If you’re not that much into Roman Ruins, I understand, but driving through the mountains was still spectacular. Below, I explain more about Tripoli and if you should go or not.

Batroun Lebanon

Batroun is known for its live and vibrant Souk and ancient Phoenician wall. I decided to stop there and check things out. As I walked from the car park to the sea, I encountered an abandoned maze of closed shops and restaurants.

Old wooden doors were shot and building works were ongoing literally everywhere I looked. I roamed around the empty streets, found the wall, looked at it and disappointingly returned.

Somewhere, I took a wrong turn and this landed me at the surprisingly lovely St. Stephan’s Cathedral which looked adorable with all the school children posing in front of it.

I spotted a sign that said: Roman Theatre so I had to check it out!

All in all, Batroun wasn’t that bad and I think when you visit on any other day than Monday morning, it will probably be much nicer.

It did allow me a peek into non-touristy Lebanese life, which I liked very much. I wouldn’t stay in Batroun though and maybe stop here only if you have time.

Roman Ruins of Bziza & Qasr Naous Temples

I set out in my rental car and headed for the mountains. The road was now empty and I could slowly meander up the mountain until I found the tiny hamlet of Bziza. There I stopped for 5 minutes to admire the Roman Temple. 

A bit disappointed by its size, I was hoping Qasr Naous would be more worth the detour and it sure was. Qasr Naous is a ruined temple complex situated high up in the mountains.

If the weather wasn’t so bad, the views must have been stellar. I loved how those two temples just sat there, abandoned and forgotten. I imagine it makes for a great picnic place in the summer.

1 night in Tripoli

I wanted to see Tripoli for myself. Some people might advise against visiting Tripoli because it might not be safe. I did not experience any safety issues in Tripoli. It felt like any other big city.

I stayed at an apartment in the Al-Mina neighborhood. The owner of Azur Apartments helped me park my car and I admired the lovely little apartment. If you feel like cooking yourself, this is the place to do it. Tripoli doesn’t have many accommodation options, so it is either Azur or the Via Mina Hotel .

I left my car in Al Mina and took a shared taxi to downtown Tripoli. I wanted to visit the Crusader castle and experience the Souk.

The Castle was absolutely impressive. Such a strong defense structure with all its courtyards and walls you can walk on. The views of the city are unrivaled and at the same time intimidating.

After the Castle, I tried to find my way around the Souk. There are several Mosques that are really beautiful but the one I found, I was not able to visit.

The others remained hidden behind a maze of small alleys and doors. It didn’t really help that it was pouring with rain and I had a long day. I found the soup Souk and bought some soap souvenirs for home.

Should you add Tripoli to your 10 days in Lebanon?

Good question! Out of all the places I visited in Lebanon, Tripoli was disappointing. Not that it wasn’t safe, I just felt out of place.

Downtown Tripoli is enormous.

The Souk area is a puzzle of small streets, closed doors, and grey buildings. I didn’t find any beauty in it. I’m sure, if you have a local guide and take your time to explore, Tripoli might unravel her hidden beauty. I just didn’t see it.

You can also visit Batroun and Tripoli on a day trip from Beirut. Find your driver or tour here .

Day 5: To the Qadisha Valley

It is time to hit the road again and head for the mountains. I left Tripoli behind and set out to Bcharre, a small village overlooking the Qadisha Valley.

I booked a 2-night stay at the Bauhaus Chalets in town, to explore the surrounding National Parks and explore the Qadisha Valley. 

As soon as I got closer, the road started to twist back and forth and slowly I sneaked up to a spectacular view of the Qadisha Valley. It was especially beautiful with the first apple blossoms on the trees.

Explore the Cedars of God

After check-in, I headed out again with my rental car and I make my way to the Cedars of God natural park.

This is one of the smallest parks where you can find Cedars, but it is high up in the mountains.

Although it was only 8 km (5 miles) from town, it took me well over 45 minutes to get there.

I soon realized I might have been too early in the season. Or the snow was still late in the season. The road was abominable! 

Potholes everywhere, small patches of sand and loads of snow at the side of the road. Finally, I arrived at a small ranger’s station and I asked if I could visit.

The ranger showed me how far I could visit and I soon realized it was a mission impossible.

The snow was waist-deep and only a small path for say 200 meters was cleared. I did get a tiny peak in the beauty of these majestic trees, especially with the snow on them. 

Explore Horsh Ehden National Park

After the Cedars of God, I returned to Bcharre and I continued to Horsh Ehden National Reserve. A much larger national park with a wide variety of flora and fauna. As I was creeping up the mountain, the sunny weather flipped. Clouds started to drift in.

The higher I got, the thicker the clouds got.

I parked my car at the ranger’s station, but it wasn’t manned, so I couldn’t ask for directions or walking paths.

Online, I had read there were numerous walking trails and the area around the parking lot seemed free of snow, so I decided to give it a go.

I first walked up a cobblestone path that was indicated as a fun walk for kids. A few steps in, I found several great learning opportunities, but the path quickly headed over rocks up the steep mountain.

The ground was slippery and more fog was rolling in. I decided it was a bad idea and I turned back.

I decided to head in the other direction and walked through a gate. The path in front of me was broad and flat. Not as interesting but luckily also not as challenging.

I knew I had to turn into the forest at some point if I wanted to walk a loop, but after 30 minutes or so, I could hardly see 100 meters in front of me.

A thick soup drifted in front of me. I couldn’t enjoy the view and could not even make out the top of the trees. I decided to turn around and leave the mountain.

Driving in the mountains of Lebanon

I arrived safely at my car and quickly got in. I was freezing by now and wanted to get off the mountain. The weather really took a turn for the worst and I slowly made my way down the mountain.

Heavy rain tormented my windshield and I could not see the road in front of me. It was one of the scariest things I’ve ever done.

In this area, the road twists and turns, the potholes are everywhere and markings on the road are nowhere to be found. I put the car to the side of the road and tried to calm down.

After 5 minutes, the weather got even worse and I decided to continue. I figured, as soon as I would make it below a certain altitude, I would be fine. And I was. 5 minutes later, the road dropped and the skies cleared.

Lesson learned: the weather can be very unpredictable and when it looks bad, you need to turn around before it is too late as it might get even worse.

Day 6: Hike in the Qadisha Valley

I spent most of the night before, contemplating if I should hike the Qadisha Valley solo. Until now, I had never hiked solo before and I did not know what the terrain would look like.

I was a bit scared of getting too tired and then still having to hike out of the valley. The night before, I went to check out Mar Lichaa monastery that would be my starting point.

I went to the look-out point and saw a car slowly drive down. I spent the rest of the evening googling and I found that there is a car park at the bottom of the valley.

It would mean I would have to hike out and return the same route, but I figured that would be a safe way to try my first solo hike. And so I went out!

Hiking Qadisha Valley

I did exactly so. I drove my rental car to the bottom of the valley, parked my car and followed the trail into the valley.

And it was lovely, I enjoyed the silence, the scenery, and the surroundings.

The water rushed with an extreme force down the stream, the trees stood tall above me, holding on to the valley’s walls. It was gorgeous.

I set out early in the morning, the sun came out and I had a lovely walk. I didn’t take any side tours or climbed any rocks or ledges.

When I arrived at Qannoubine Monastery, I took a break, taking in the silence of the monastery. I checked out the little shrine of Santa Maria a little bit further and then decided to head back. 

It took me nearly 3 hours to walk there and back again. I still had some energy left, so I also checked out the Saint George’s Church with the amazing views of the valley and the cliffs surrounding it. If you like nature and history, then I can definitely recommend hiking the Qadisha Valley.

Although the Qadisha Valley is quite a drive from Beirut, you can visit on a day trip too. I’d recommend a full day trip to make the journey out there worth your time.

Find the best Qadisha Valley Day Trips from Beirut here .

Day 7: Drive to Bekaa Valley & Explore Baalbek

After spending two days in the Qadisha Valley, it was time to move away again. I set out to the Bekaa Valley as I wanted to visit the ruins of Baalbek.

When I planned my trip, I just looked at the map and figured it was an easy 1 to 2-hour drive and I could easily manage it all on 1 day. 

I was wrong. I didn’t factor in that the road I saw on the map was actually a road over the mountains.

Snow-covered mountains, only open from June till September.

There was no way I could pass them. I decided on the alternative route over a smaller mountain range and not drive back to Beirut.

Tannourine Cedars National Park

This would allow me to stop at the Tannourine Cedars National Park. Maybe I was overconfident from the solo hike the day before, but I figured I could visit the national park and take a short hike and then continue my Lebanon road trip to the Bekaa Valley.

The trip from Bcharre to Tannourine was breathtaking. I had the road to myself and the air was bright and crisp. I set out early in the morning and slowly crept up the steep, windy mountain pass.

At a certain altitude, patches of snow lined the dirt road and I even took on a hitchhiking old man. 

Hiking in Tannourine Cedars National Park

Finally, I arrived at Tannourine Cedars National Park. I was the only one but the park ranger gave me a map and I happily stepped on the crisp snow.

I followed a path around one of the easiest and shortest walks in the park. It took me nearly 1.5 hours to complete it as the ground was very unstable as the snow started to melt, making the ground slushy and slippery. I even trotted through knee-deep patches of snow, hoping I wouldn’t lose the trail.

For me, it was quite the adventure. 2nd solo ‘hiking’ adventure in such conditions, while I was actually on a tight timeline.

But girl was it worth it.

I got to several viewpoints where I could overlook the rugged mountains, covered with tall standing cedars and other snow-covered trees. 

The sky was a gorgeous delicate blue, birds were chirping and I felt so blessed to be able to see such beauty. Conditions were not ideal but all the more beautiful.

Qalaat Faqra Roman Ruins

From Tannourine, I continued my journey inland. I figured I could follow the main road at Mzaar Ski Resort and then enter the Bekaa Valley there.

One winding road after another, passing through small villages and tiny cities, I finally arrived at the Qalaat Faqra Roman Ruins.

I figured this would be another great stop on my Lebanon travel itinerary.

But the weather flipped. I was quite high up in the mountains but it was getting a bit chilly. Clouds filled with rain drifted in and out.

The Roman Ruins of Qalaat Faqra are quite impressive as they are hewn from the rock. There are several ruins you can look at, but during my visit, I kept looking at the big mountain range in front of me.

That was where I was supposed to pass but I couldn’t see the top of the mountains.

I could see snow and fog. There was no way I could pass there.

Bekaa Valley

That morning, I left Bcharre at 8 am. I stopped a few times but it took me till 3 pm to arrive in Zahlé. I was so happy and relieved to finally be able to cross a mountain range and see the broad and green Bekaa Valley in front of me.

During this day of intense driving, I saw so much of the interior of Lebanon but it came at a toll. I felt a migraine throbbing underneath my templates and I felt like my face was burning up. I could feel my body protesting.

Baalbek Lebanon

I checked into my guesthouse in Zahlé, the Beit el Kroum Boutique Hotel, and contemplated what to do. Outside, the blue sky beckoned me to come outside.

Inside, my phone’s weather app would tell me bad weather was on the horizon for tonight and tomorrow. I would have 2 hours to get to Baalbek and explore one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world.

Quickly, I decided to head out and give it a try. I could always go back tomorrow if I felt I missed out on some things.

And that is how I ended up rushing through the Baalbek ruins. I arrived roughly at 4.30 pm and figured I had until 6 pm to explore. It turned out they kicked me out at 5.30 pm.

Exploring Baalbek Ruins

The plus side of this story was that I had the Baalbek ruins almost completely to myself.

I could roam around and take quick pictures without anyone in my view.

Which was perfect.

I tried my best to take in the site and the views but I did feel a bit rushed.

However, I did take my time to set up my camera for a few selfies at some of the greatest ruins I have ever seen.

By 5.30 pm, the guards kicked me out.

I couldn’t see the museum and the Temple of Venus but the things I did see, made me fall in love with Baalbek. It was perfect that I had the site to myself which allowed me to move quickly around and take in the history.

And I was glad I did it because the weather was perfect. The next day, it even snowed in Baalbek!

Day 8: Explore the Bekaa Valley 

But that evening and night, I felt my body revolt to the stress of that day. Or it allowed for a bug to settle in my stomach and disrupt my whole system.

I was cold and I couldn’t get warm anymore. And I couldn’t keep in any food. I rushed to the toilet every hour of the night, leaving me cold, weak and ill the next morning.

For me, I was glad to stay in such a homestay type of accommodation I stayed in bed nearly all day. Mostly because I felt too ill to go out but also because rain and hail were covering the Bekaa Valley.

Ruins of Anjar

At the end of the afternoon, I did decide to go out for a bit.

I drove to Anjar, only 40 minutes away and visited the ruins of the Umayyad court of the 8th century.

There Unesco World Heritage Ruins are remarkable because they only cover one period in time. They were not reused or repurposed by future generations.

It was convenient to park in front of the ruins and I could follow the grid and layout of the old city.

Sadly, my umbrella could barely hold up the constant stream of rain and hailstones, so I did a quick tour of the site. 

If you’re not ill and the weather is better, I recommend spending 1 to 1.5 hours here to explore the ruins, take in the old Grand Palace and walk the streets of Anjar. It reminded me a little bit of Pompeii even.

Zahle wine tasting

Because of the heavy rain, I cut my visit to Anjar short and returned to Zahle. Only 15 minutes out, the sky cleared up and the sun came out.

Just my luck. Instead of turning around and revisiting again, I decide to continue and stop at one of the famous wineries in Zahlé.

Chateau Ksara

The Chateau Ksara was on my route to my guesthouse, so I decided to check in and see if they were open . They were and I joined an English tour of the wineries caves.

This was really short but impressive.

The guide took us to the underground labyrinth of caves and niches, with barrels of wine lining the walls and bottles of wines stacked behind closed gates.

She explained that the monks used to produce so much delicious wine, that the higher power in the church ordered them to stop their commercial activities with the delicious wines.

They sold the winery and Chateau Ksara was born.

Tour Ksara Wine House

After the tour, we watched a video of the harvest and it was really an interesting twist on the other things I’ve seen so far in Lebanon.

All the while, I was contemplating to do the wine tasting or not. I was driving after all and it seemed like a bad idea. But I really wanted to taste the wine. In the end, I decided to choose safety over sampling the wine. 

My big tip for you would be to get a driver or take a taxi and drink and taste and sample as much wine as you can! I heard raving reviews about the wine at Chateau Ksara.

As the Bekaa Valley and Baalbek are one of those epic must-see things in Lebanon, there are numerous tours and day trips to Baalbek. Some combine a day trip with Anjar and a wine tasting in Zahlé. Check out the best tours here .

Day 9: Drive to the Shouf National Reserve

Although I wasn’t feeling much better, I had to leave Zahlé and the Bekaa Valley. My next stop would be the Shouf.

This mountain range is dominated by tiny villages and several national parks to see the Cedars.

I rested a bit and went to the pharmacy for some antibiotics and some ORS rehydration salts to prevent me from dehydrating.

With so many liquids coming out, I felt my bodies need to stock up on electrolytes and keep in some of the fluids.

My recommendation for you would be to leave early and explore as much of the Shouf National Park as possible. The Shouf consists of several different smaller parks, each with entrances at different roads. I tried to visit all of them but the weather and wintery conditions made it difficult.

Palais des Cedres Hotel

From Zahlé, I took the main road to Beirut for a while and was a bit overwhelmed by how busy it was.

After driving for nearly a week on small mountain roads, passing empty villages, the main highway was a bit of a shock.

This was also the first time I drove on the main road during mid-day so I was glad when I reached the turn-off to the Shouf and continue on the tiny mountain roads again.

I arrived at the Palais des Cedres Hotel and I nearly cried when I entered my room.

It was so beautiful, so warm and the intense smell of thick cedar wood was everywhere.

It sure helped they upgraded me to a royal room and I could see the mountains from my bed and balcony. Although I wanted to stay in and veg out, I decided to head out again and try to explore some of the Shouf Cedars National Park.

Shouf Biosphere Reserve Barouk Cedars Forest

The hotel is really close to one of the main entrances to the park. It was 5 minutes to the Ranger Station at Barouk National Reserve.

I needed to buy my ticket and I could continue by car.

Unfortunately, again, hiking was not possible. The ranger told me I could drive till the end of the road and look around, but then I would have to come back.

I didn’t quite get what he meant, as my google maps showed the road going up the mountains to Maasser Cedar Forest Shouf Biosphere Reserve and over the mountains to Kefraya but I soon found it.

But, I got in my car and followed the road.

I quickly climbed and soon the snow was lining the road again. The road twisted and turned up the mountains and fog was drifting in again. I passed a small patch of cleared snow where I could see a trail but I continued. Until I couldn’t go any further. 

The last few meters I drove on snow and the road wasn’t cleared. And then I hit a wall of snow. Well, I didn’t actually hit it but it was clear I couldn’t continue anymore.

The road was blocked by a mountain of snow. As it was half of April, I was surprised but it clearly shows that I am not used to the mountains.

After looking around, I returned the same way I came from.

Maasser Cedar Forest Shouf Biosphere Reserve

I still was slightly disappointed. I drove back to Barouk and took the valley road to Maaser El Chouf village.

Unfortunately, the main visitor center was closed or had vanished, so I drove up another mountain to reach the Maasser Cedar Forest Shouf Biosphere Reserve.

It was a bit busier here and there were several rangers in the hut. I could access this part of the park with the same ticket as in Barouk, so this saved a few Lebanese pounds.

One of the rangers walked with me and explained which path I could follow and where I had to go to see the oldest Cedar tree in Lebanon.

Oldest Cedar Trees in the world

The path was horrible. Patches of snow, mixed with slush and frozen puddles. I slipped and slithered up the path and tried to enjoy the scenery. The fog crept up on me and obstructed any views of the National Park and Forest.

I reminisced on the glorious sunny morning I had in Tannourine National Park and decided this wasn’t working. I’m still not sure if I saw the oldest Cedar tree. I did see several old and big cedars but I didn’t see a sign, so I think I haven’t seen it.

I retreated to the luxurious warmth of my hotel room and watched movies for the rest of the night.

If the weather is better or you visit during a different season, I highly recommend the several Shouf Cedar parks.

Although I didn’t see much of it, I could see they have good infrastructure, spacious parking lots and there were rangers at the post to guide you around the park.

Several trails were clearly set out and what I did see of the parks was well maintained.

I can’t wait to go back during the summertime!

Day 10: Beiteddine and Beirut Airport

I realize my Lebanon itinerary starts to sound a bit like: I was sick, the weather was bad, I didn’t do that much. I’m sorry for that but it hugely impacted the last days of my 10-day trip to Lebanon.

I’m sharing the things I did do or could have done to show you what you can do when you make your own itinerary but the truth is, not everything worked out for me.

After I left the Palais des Cedres with pain in my heart, I slowly made my way to Beirut airport. I wanted to visit the Beiteddine palace and then move to the coast and wait for my flight home from Beirut airport.

I wanted to visit the grotto of Beit Nazein, but I learned it was closed for the public until further notice.

Beiteddine Palace

In the morning, I drove to Beiteddine and was excited to visit this palace complex of Emir Bashir II of the Shihab dynasty (1788-1818). I wanted to see the courtyard, the stairway and the palace wings with my own eyes, but unfortunately: it was closed. 

So, I parked in the parking lot and contemplated what to do next as it was still raining and it seemed like the perfect indoor activity for my last day in Lebanon.

I wasn’t the only one who was disappointed, as several tour groups and family came to the gate to return disappointed.

Deir al-Qamar Village

I decided to drive around the valley, which offered lovely views and settle for a coffee at Deir al-Qamar. I stopped at Moussa Castle, a fairy tale whimsical make-belief palace by a guy with too much money but decided to continue.

Once in Deir al-Qamar, I was charmed by the buzzing lively feel of this small village. 

Flowers lining the streets, cute houses and shops and a romantic feel. I drove two circles around the village to find a spot to park my car, but I had no luck.

By now, I was quite fed up with the weather and the inability to do something fun and entertaining and the rain that I decided to give up and head to the airport.

If the palaces are open, allocate 1 to 2 hours to explore Beiteddine Palace and another hour for Deir Al-Qamar. Make that 2 or 3 hours if you include a nice lunch stop there. 

Beiteddine and the Shouf Valley is an easy and popular day trip from Beirut. Find the best tours and prices here .

Back to Beirut Airport

I went back to the airport. I found a Starbucks and gave in to my need to be near a bathroom and use high-speed internet. There , I am only human.

As we glided in the air, looking down on the bright lights of Beirut, I had a content smile on my face. Despite the illness, despite the rain and the last few days, Lebanon charmed me in a way I did not expect. 

I found the mixture of religions, opinions and natural and cultural sites to visit intriguing and surprising.

It left me already craving for more and I don’t rule out that I will return to Lebanon in the near future.

10-day Lebanon Road Trip Itinerary

I think I could have spent another week in Lebanon and not gotten bored at all.

For a first acquaintance, 10 days in Lebanon is a good amount of time to get a first taste. If you have less time, for example only 1 week in Lebanon, you can leave some of the activities out and still see a good portion of the country.

I hope I was able to show you how to arrange your own road trip in Lebanon and gave you plenty of practical suggestions on things to see and do.

Practical tips for your Lebanon Trip planning

As always, I like to leave you with some practical tips and advice to make planning your own Lebanon itinerary easier.

• I do recommend renting a car in Lebanon. Get the best rates and conditions and compare the best car rentals here .
• Lebanon’s tourism industry is up and coming but it is also a perfect independent backpacker country. If you do want to go sightseeing but want more guidance and let someone else take care of the logistics, book your day trip tour here .
• Bring US Dollars and pay with them and get the locale Lebanese Pound in return. No need to take out money from the ATM or exchange at an exchange office. The rate is fair and it is super easy.
• Many airlines fly to Beirut, like the nation’s MEA airline. I flew from Amsterdam directly with Transavia to Beirut but you can search for your flight here .
• Book your hotels in advance. Hotels outside of Beirut are not that common or well-advertised. I’m sure you sometimes can show up and get a room but booking ahead can help you a lot. I always use Booking but Hostelworld also offers nice budget accommodations too. Some unique stays can be found on Airbnb as well.

• Bradt Lebanon Guidebook is a good guide for information and practical travel tips. Purchase your copy here .
• Book your hotels in Lebanon via Booking.com or Hotels.com
• Book your direct flights to Beirut, Lebanon here
• Travel in style with your Lebanon Passport cover! Absolutely love these !
• Unfortunately, things can and do go wrong when you travel in Lebanon. World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Lebanon hotels for your trip

To make things easier for you, here is a list with the hotels I stayed at during my Lebanon trip. I recommend all of them wholeheartedly, so feel free to book your stay there too:

• 3 nights in Beirut at the J Hotel and Spa
• 1 night in Jbeil/Byblos at the Aleph Boutique Hotel
• 1 night in Tripoli at Azur Apartments
• 2 nights in Bcharre in the Qadisha Valley at Bauhaus Chalets
• 2 nights in Zahlé at the Beit el Kroum Boutique Hotel
• 1 night in Barouk at the Palais des Cedres Hotel
• Practical things to know before traveling to Lebanon
• Renting a car in Lebanon
• Tyre and Sidon day trip from Beirut
• Roman Ruins in Lebanon
• Epic Outdoor Adventures in Lebanon for Nature Lovers
• My Lebanon Travel Budget Breakdown
• 17 Amazing Things To Do in Beirut – Lebanon

Are you thinking of going to Lebanon? What is at the top of your must-do list? Or do you have a favorite place in Lebanon that you recommend? I’d love to read it, feel free to share your thoughts in the comment section below.

Author: Naomi

Hi Naomi I loved your blog about Lebanon! Thank you. It’s inspired me. I have been hesitating for some time to book a group tour due to cost and restrictive itinerary but didn’t imagine it could be a trip I could take independently. It is now. How much would you recommend budgeting for a 10 day trip (excluding flights?) Thank you. Samantha

Thank you, Samantha. I still haven’t added up all my expenses and I plan to write about the costs later on but Lebanon is not cheap. Accommodation outside Beirut can be a bit pricer but the food was affordable and sights too. In the end, it was worth every penny and with planning your own trip you have the freedom to choose a bit of luxury on one day and go cheap the next, whereas a group tour is always at the same level which adds to the higher budget. Either way, I hope you get to enjoy Lebanon too!

Thank you Naomi! I am starting to plan my trip now 🙂

Comments are closed.

Lebanon travel guide: a 2-week itinerary

By Joan Torres 58 Comments Last updated on July 25, 2024

This is a compelling travel guide to Lebanon that shows how to visit the Levantine country during the crisis, including where to exchange in the black market. It also includes things to do, how to move around, where to stay and more.

Despite its tiny size, Lebanon is the most diverse country in the Middle East, a nation that chaotically combines both Arab and European Mediterranean culture, with their love for good wine and the most exquisite food in the region, without never losing their Arab essence.

Lebanon, however, is not in their brightest moment.

A deep economical crisis fuelled by the port explosion and also COVID-19 has left an impoverished country with terrible inflation, and an absolutely desperate population.

As a traveler, Lebanon has changed a lot, the crisis is particularly palpable but that should not stop you from visiting such an alluring country, which is also desperate for foreign currency .

This guide contains travel tips for Lebanon, as well as a complete itinerary.

In this Lebanon travel guide:

Table of Contents

• Traveling during the crisis
• Power shortages
• Useful books
• Travel insurance
• Moving around
• Day 1,2,3 – Beirut
• Day 4 – Byblos
• Day 5 – Zahlé
• Day 6 – Baalbek  
• Day 7, 8 – Tripoli
• Day 9, 10 – Kadisha Valley
• Day 11 – Sayda & Mleeta
• Day 12 – Tyr
• Day 13 – Go off-beat – Lebanese-Israeli separation wall
• More Information

our recommended travel insurance for Lebanon

IATI Insurance is the most versatile insurance for any destination, including Lebanon.

🪪 Visa for traveling to Lebanon

Most nationalities can get a free 30-day visa on arrival at the airport in Beiru t , which is extendable for 2 additional months.

You just get an easy, friendly stamp, that’s it, and it’s valid for multiple entries.

💻 Internet and connectivity in Lebanon

Wi-Fi connection has improved over the last few years, but it’s still not the best, it tends to fail in most budget hotels, and that’s why I recommend buying a SIM Card.

One company I used was Alfa , their internet packages costing the equivalent of around 20USD.

Get a VPN for traveling in Lebanon

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Lebanon. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

Read: A travel guide to Palestine

💰 How to travel in Lebanon during the crisis

As mentioned, Lebanon is immersed in a hugely deep financial crisis, and below are the things that might affect you as a traveler.

1 – Need to know about money in Lebanon during the crisis

In Lebanon, the official currency is the Lebanese Pound (LBP) .

The official exchange rate versus US $ is 1 USD equals 1500LBP .

That’s the official (and old) bank rate. However, because of the crisis, the official rate in the black market is today:

1 USD = 27,000 LPB

The Lebanese pound has devalued more than 15 times its original value in just a few years, it’s absolutely crazy.

Lebanon travel tip – I recommend you download Lira Exchange on your smartphone, an app that gives you the current black market exchange rate.

However, for some reason, Lebanese banks like to keep the old rate.

This means that you should never ever use your credit card in Lebanon, never pay by card, and never withdraw from an ATM, never ever because you’ll get the old rate.

Lebanon is today a cash economy, bring all your money in cash, don’t use your credit card. In the hypothetical case you run out of money, ask someone to send you cash via Western Union or similar, but never without your debit card.

How to exchange money in the black market of Lebanon

They call it black market but basically, the black market for exchanging money in Lebanon is anywhere, including the official money exchange offices which can be found everywhere, especially along Hamra Street in Beirut.

Which currencies do they accept?

You can exchange Euros (€), US dollars, or British Pounds, among others.

If the Lebanese Pound has devalued more than 15 times, does that mean that everything is 15 times cheaper?

No. The currency devaluation has brought massive inflation too.

For example, before the crisis, a bottle of beer in a supermarket used to cost 1,500LBP. Today, you can buy it for 15,000LBP.

2 – Need to know about power shortages in Lebanon

One of the biggest consequences of this unfortunate crisis for the Lebanese people is their shortage of electricity. When you travel in Lebanon, you’ll see that power cuts occur very often, every day.

As a traveler, if you only stay in fancy hotels and eat in top-end restaurants, the power cuts won’t really bother you, since pretty much all use powerful generators.

However, in cheaper hotels, as well as outside of Beirut, power cuts occur pretty often.

By the way, one top travel tip for Lebanon is not to order meat from certain cheap restaurants, since their fridge might not be always on due to the power cuts.

3 – Is it safe to travel to Lebanon during the economical crisis?

Lebanon has never come without its own issues but this has always been one of the safest countries in the Middle East , a country home to a huge cultural and religious diversity, where there’s never been a place for extremists.

In the last couple of years, however, since the unfortunate crisis started, many travelers are questioning the country’s safety, claiming that traveling to Lebanon isn’t safe anymore, but I strongly disagree.

Crime has always been pretty insignificant in Lebanon and, despite that many Lebanese are in urgent need of cash, it still remains low, and there are no travel reports telling otherwise.

Public demonstrations

Since the crisis started, the only place or moment of potential violence has been during the street protests. If you bump into a public demonstration, it’s recommended to stay away from it.

Moreover, one of the most tangible legacies of the Lebanese Civil War , is that many people in Lebanon have guns at their homes, and many still like to carry them outside of their respective houses.

Once, I took a shared taxi in Beirut , from Hamra to Burj Hamood, and one of the passengers was carrying a gun, yet, nobody seemed to care about it.

This is the reason why in most public demonstrations, some demonstrators have guns, and they tend to like shooting into the sky. Being around those people is, obviously, dangerous.

🛫 How to get to Lebanon

How to travel to lebanon by air.

The national airline in Lebanon is Middle East Airlines (MEA) , which has several connections across Europe and the Middle East.

Moreover, you can also fly to Beirut International Airport from Paris (Air France), Frankfurt (Lufthansa), Barcelona (Vueling), Istanbul (Turkish and Pegasus) and pretty much any country in the Middle East .

How to travel to Lebanon by land

Lebanon shares a border with Israel and Syria.

• Traveling to Lebanon from Israel: The border with Israel has always been closed, not possible to cross it.
• Traveling to Lebanon from Syria: It’s fully open and very easy to cross. We use it all the time for our group expeditions .

For more information, read my Syria travel guide .

How to travel to Lebanon by sea

Apparently, the ferry from Cyprus to the northern city of Tripoli isn’t running anymore but you can take a ferry from Tasucu, Port of Mersin (Turkey). However, there isn’t any reliable information online regarding departure timings so overlanders should just show up in Tasucu.

Travel reports are more than welcome 🙂

📚 Useful books for traveling in Lebanon

Lebanon travel guide by bradt.

This is the most up-to-date travel guide to Lebanon. I am a Bradt Guides fan because all their guides are extremely insightful, both from a local perspective and also, because they give plenty of tips for independent travelers which help you easily plan your itinerary for Lebanon.

Middle East Travel Guide by Lonely Planet

It has only one chapter about Lebanon but, at least, the information here is updated.

🚑 Travel insurance for visiting Lebanon

Lebanon is one of those countries where you must travel with insurance, as it is a wild place where people drive crazily.

I recommend IATI Insurance  because:

• Plans for all budgets.
• Covers all countries in the Middle East, including Syria and Iraq
• Full COVID coverage
• It covers senior citizens too
• Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount

🕌 The country: people & culture

For me, the highlight of traveling to Lebanon is by far, the Lebanese people.

However, I am not talking about their kindness and hospitality – since that would be falling into the classical cliché one can say about any country in the Middle East – but I am talking about the cultural diversity.

There’s no other country – at least that I am aware of – where there can be so many groups of people living in such a tiny space.

Shia, Sunni, Catholics, Orthodox and Druze, but also Armenians, Palestinians, and Syrians.

From Hezbollah areas to Christian districts inhabited by European-like people and Sunni women wearing the niqab , the cultural mix in Lebanon is so chaotically mixed that it can’t be defined as a whole, and that’s what Lebanon is about.

Which language do they speak in Lebanon?

The official language in Lebanon is Arabic.

English is widely spoken in Beirut among well-educated Lebanese, especially in the districts of Hamra and Gemmazyeh.

Outside of Beirut, English is less spoken.

French is also spoken among a tiny part of the Lebanese population.

🍲 Food in Lebanon

Lebanese food is a Mediterranean cuisine with influences from both the Middle East and the French colonial era and, as in Spain, Italy or Greece, olive oil is the base of any dish.

Typically, most restaurants serve mezza , an array of small dishes similar to the Spanish tapas, which includes both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.

From the classic  hummus,   kibbeh (a local steak tartar), kebabs and   syadye  (rice, fish, and almonds in a gravy sauce) to a tasty olive oil of the standard of any southern European country and a strong wine culture, Beirut is home to the best food in the entire region.

Read: Iraqi Kurdistan travel guide

🛺 How to move around Lebanon

Everything in Lebanon can be reached in less than 2 or 3 hours.

Except for the northern mountains, where you might need to stay overnight, if you wanted, you can visit the entire country on different day trips from Beirut .

However, in order to enjoy all the places to their fullest, I really recommend spending some nights outside of the capital.

Traveling around Lebanon by public transportation

Lebanon is a very easy country to move around.

There are public buses and mini-vans going to almost every corner in the country from Beirut, where there are 2 main stations named Charles Helou and Cola Station . Charles Helou is ideal for traveling to the north, whereas Cola is to the South.

For more information about these 2 stations, check my Beirut Travel Guide and for more details about how to reach each city in Lebanon, check the Itinerary Section on this post .

Travel around Lebanon by taxi

If you can share the costs with other travelers, traveling by taxi around Lebanon is relatively cheap and pretty convenient, since most places can be reached from Beirut on a day trip.

One easy option would be calling an Uber, but I recommend getting in touch with a local taxi company. One I tried is located in Hamra street . They have fixed rates for going anywhere in Beirut.

Self-driving in Lebanon

You can also rent a car, no problem.

Just be aware, however, that the driving in Lebanon is pretty insane, but definitely not more than in Saudi Arabia , Iraq and any other country in the Middle East .

As per rental car companies, some travelers recommend a local company named Mike Rent a Car , but Hertz or Europcar are also available.

📍 Lebanon travel guide: a 2-week itinerary

Here you will find the best itinerary for Lebanon.

It might be a bit challenging to include all of these places in just 2 weeks but, if you plan ahead, it is totally feasible.

Day 1, 2 – Beirut – The most liberal city in the Middle East

What can I say about Beirut that I haven’t said already?

The Lebanese capital is the most westernized and liberal city in the Middle East (outside of Israel), only comparable to Tehran and a city full of contrasts and owner of deep and interesting history.

Beirut is composed of several neighborhoods, each one with its own subculture, so different from each other that, when you are wandering around them, it looks like you are in a different city, from the hipster neighborhood of Gemmazyeh to Hezbollah areas, Armenian, Christian, refugee camps and fancy districts with the most glamorous stores and the best restaurants in the region.

For more information about Beirut, read my article: A travel guide to Beirut

Where to stay in Beirut

Budget Hotel –   Embassy Hotel  – This is the cheapest hotel in town. The rooms are getting quite old but, at this price, you won’t find anywhere better. The location is great, however, in Hamra, a very cool area to hang out.

Backpacker Hostel –   Hamra Urban Gardens – Located in the main Hamra Street. It offers both suite and dorm rooms with a seasonal outdoor pool and bar.

Mid-range Hotel –  O Monot Boutique – Strategically located at the heart of Beirut, this property was highly recommended by many because of their amazing facilities especially their rooftop bar with a panoramic view of Beirut.

Top-end Hotel –  Radisson Blu Hotel – If you are looking for a comfortable place which has a delightful design, a good restaurant and other various facilities, this 5-star hotel is a perfect choice. Located in Dunes shopping center and 5-minute walk away from the beach.

Day 3 – Byblos – The native home of the modern alphabet

With 8,000 years of history, Byblos is considered one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and the place where the first inscriptions containing the modern western alphabet were found.

Byblos derives from the Greek word bublos , meaning papyrus , as the town was the stopping place for the Phoenicians who shipped papyrus from Egypt .

Besides a super interesting museum that explains the history of the creation of the alphabet, in Byblos you can also visit a crusader castle from the XII century, built by the Franks, a restored souq, a beautiful Mediterranean harbor full of restaurants, where you can eat seafood feasts, and some archeological sites containing mainly Roman ruins but also from many other civilizations, from the Neolithic settlements 8,000 years ago to Phoenician, Egyptian, Greek and Ottoman.

Book a tour to Byblos from Beirut It also includes Jeita & Harissa CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Byblos from Beirut

Byblos is around 50km from Beirut. Buses depart from Charles Helou station.

Where to stay in Byblos

Byblos can be reached on a day trip from Beirut but, in case you wanna stay here, here’s a few options:

Budget Hotel – Sea Valley – The cheapest hotel in Byblos is a very decent aparthotel. 

Mid-range hotel – L’Hotel de mon pere – With stunning panoramic sea views and really awesome breakfast, this super pretty modern hotel serves the best quality in Byblos, at the lowest price. It is really close to the beach and even closer to the Old City of Byblos, so you can’t ask for more!

Top-end hotel – Byblos Sur Mer – This boutique hotel is at the most privileged location in the whole of Byblos, next to the ruins, on the seaside and at the heart of where the exquisite social life in Byblos is, which consists of eating at the seafood fancy restaurants that compose the harbor.

Day 4 – Zahlé – The face of Lebanon you didn’t know about

What I loved about Zahlé was that, even though it is a Lebanese city located in the heart of the Bekaa Valley, it is more similar to the villages of Mediterranean Europe than to Lebanon itself, as this city, with a Christian majority, is famous for its wineries and for its restaurants, serving the best mezza in the whole country.

In Zahlé, you can’t miss Berdawini , located just outside of the city, a green area with a river flowing, plenty of high-quality restaurants, slightly pricey for my taste but delicious.

When I went there, it was not only full of Lebanese people from the middle-upper class but also, there were plenty of Western diplomats escaping from Beirut for the weekend.

I also recommend you go to Ksara Winery , the oldest and most famous winery in the whole country.

I always prefer visiting small, traditional wineries, rather than big corporations (check my Kakheti travel guide ) but I have to admit that the wine I tasted here was excellent. Their tour was OK but there wasn’t any need to book it in advance.

Book a wine tour from Beirut which includes 3 different wineries in the Beqaa Valley CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Zahlé from Beirut

Zahlé is on the way to Baalbek, so you should first take a bus to a town named Chtoura. From there, you can get on a second bus to Zahlé.

I got it at Cola Station but there may be a direct bus from Charles Helou station.

Where to stay in Zahlé

There is no cheap accommodation in Zahlé: the most budget accommodation starts at 70USD, so if you are on a budget, you should spend the night in Baalbek or go back to Beirut.

Mid-range Apartment Hotel – Berdawni Apartments – This apartment-hotel is nothing outstanding but it really fulfills its function, with very comfy beds and the best location, right next to Berdwani river, the highlight in town. It is a good value money for money option and, in any case, you won’t find anything cheaper!

Top-end Hotel – La Place Hotel – Located in the old part of town, people love this hotel because it manages to combine the old and traditional with very modern facilities and exquisite decoration. The breakfast is great and they have the purest and kindest Middle Eastern service.

Day 5 – Baalbek – The most impressive and off-the-beaten-track Roman ruins

Lebanon travel tip – Pay the entrance ticket in Lebanese Pounds (LBP), not in USD, since they will give you the official bank rate, meaning that you’ll pay no more than 1 dollar to enter the site. Before the crisis, the entrance fee was $15

Visiting Baalbek is one of the best things to do in Lebanon, a city that has some impressive Roman ruins, built on a giant scale and often considered the most important in the Middle East and, controversially, one of the least visited off-the-beaten track Roman ruins in the world, even lesser visited than Palmyra in Syria , which used to receive hundreds of thousands of visitors before the war.

The temple of Jupiter and the temple of Bacchus are the buildings that dominate this stunning architectural masterpiece.

Seriously, these Roman ruins are just outstanding and, when I went there, I had the ruins completely to myself.

Book a tour to Baalbek from Beirut the easiest way to visit the site with no hassle CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Baalbek from Beirut 

Baalbek is 90km from Beirut.

From Cola Station, there are buses going to Chtoura, situated half-way, a town from where you should take a second bus to Baalbek.

Where to stay in Baalbek

Even though you can visit Baalbek on a day trip, I strongly recommend spending one night there to see the ruins at sunset time.

Budget Hotel  – Jammal Hotel – This is the most budget hotel in Baalbek but you can’t book it online. It is OK for 1 night. 

Mid-Range Hotel  –  Palmyra Hotel  – This is, perhaps, the most famous hotel in the country and the reason is that it has never been closed since it was opened in 1874. it has hosted famous people such as Nina Simeone and the President of France It is also located next to the Roman ruins. I personally think the hotel is absolutely overpriced, since there hasn’t been any renovation for decades.

Day 6 – Tripoli – The most traditional Lebanese city

Tripoli is the second biggest Lebanese city, a city that would probably fit in what you think are the Lebanese standards, with its beautiful old souq of spices, ancient medieval architecture, and a citadel from where you get fantastic views of the city.

In Tripoli, a city famous for its sweets, live the Lebanese people who have the famous Arabic hospitality, as it’s impossible to be wandering the streets, kind of lost, without several locals offering you their help.

This is a city to get lost in around its narrow alleys and an old city belonging to the XIV century.

Furthermore, you can’t miss the fortress of Raymond de Saint Gilles, built in the XI century and the lovely neighborhood around the harbor.

By the way, you probably heard that the U.S. Embassy describes Tripoli as a dangerous city to travel to. Why is that so? Since the Civil War, there have been one-off clashes between Sunni and Alawi Muslims who reside in the neighborhoods of Bab al-Tabbaneh and Jebel Mohsen, respectively. Throughout the years, these clashes have killed several people.

This is a one-off conflict happening in a specific area, far away from the city center. It’s a fight between two small districts and doesn’t go beyond.

The rest of the city is totally cool and safe. However, since I’m an extremely curious human being, I also went to Jebel Mohsen . And what can I say? Life there was merely normal. Again, clashes and bombings happen once a year, not more.

How to get to Tripoli from Beirut

Located 80km, there are buses leaving from Cola Station continuously, as well from Charles Helou.

Where to stay in Tripoli

There are very few options in Tripoli but these would be the most popular:

Budget Guest House –  Haddad Hotel– The facilities and rooms are very old but the staff is a lovely family that will give you a very charming welcome and a great, traditional breakfast. With an awesome location, close to the old city, this is the best place for budget travelers and backpackers. Online booking not available. 

Mid-range Hotel – Via Mina Hotel – Being the top rated hotel in Tripoli, Via Mina has a kind of rustic style but with very modern facilities at the same time. It is located right in front of the sea, has a great pool and the staff will bless you with great hospitality.

Day 9, 10 – Kadisha Valley – Lovely Christian mountain villages

If you either want just to relax, eat good food, visit beautiful Christian monasteries or to go hiking, the Kadisha Valley in Lebanon will always be the perfect place for you.

Kadisha means ”holy” and owes this name to the fact that this valley is home to some of the most ancient communities of monastic Christians  in the Middle East.

In case you don’t know, monasticism is a way of life for which the person (in this case Christian monks) renounces everything to devote himself completely to spiritual work.

The valley is full of natural caves, difficult to access, that once served as places of isolation for the monks living lives devoted to Christ.

How to get to Kadisha from Tripoli (or Beirut)

If you come from Beirut, you will have to go to Tripoli first.

Once in Tripoli, there are buses leaving from 9am to a small village named Bsharri, which is a great base to explore the rest of the valley. For coming back, the last one is at 4:30pm.

Where to stay in Kadisha Valley (Bsharri)

Kadisha is one of those places where you really should spend one night at least, especially if you come by public transportation. Otherwise, you will just have 1 hour to explore it entirely.

Budget Guest House – Tiger Guest House – This is an ideal place for budget backpackers and, basically, the only cheap accommodation in town. Everything is very simple but the family is lovely and very helpful.

Mid-range Hotel – Bauhaus Chalets Apartment – Breathtaking views, a very accommodating owner, and pretty modern facilities, this hotel is pretty good, given the low range offer in Bsharri.

Day 11 – Sayda and Mleeta – Hezbollah territory

Sayda is a small city located 40km from Beirut. Slightly conservative, Sayda is a nice place to visit on a day trip, wandering around its labyrinthine, covered souq, full of cafés where the Lebanese are sitting outside, looking with expectation at the few foreigners that pass by.

Perhaps, the most iconic building in the city is the castle, built in the XII century, located on a tiny island just 80m from the shore, whose walls turn into a beautiful orange during the sunset.

Mleeta, the Museum of Hezbollah

A fantastic day trip from either Beirut or Sayda is visiting the Mleeta Museum, aka the Hezbollah Resistance Museum .

Hezbollah is a Shia militia and armed group created in Lebanon during the war against Israel.

They don’t like to be called militia, however, but they consider themselves a resistance organization against a common enemy named Israel.

The area around Mleeta was their headquarters and stronghold during the war and today, they have built an amazing museum where you can visit the underground tunnels they used to hide in, as well as some captured Israeli tanks and artillery.

The museum only costs a few $ and it includes a guided tour with a member of the militia.

While it’s true that his explanations are pure propaganda, the guides are open to absolutely any question, and they are actually very pleasant people. A must-see.

How to get to Sayda from Beirut 

To get to the south of Lebanon, Cola Station is the best and only option.

Where to stay in Sayda

Sayda isn’t famous for its accommodation. To be honest, I didn’t stay here but came on a day trip from Beirut. In any case, if you plan to stay here, these are the most feasible options:

Budget / Mid-range Hotel – Yacoub Hotel – A very old hotel from 1920, Yacoub is located very close to the old city and the beach, the main city’s tourist attractions. However, many people have complained about cleanliness, especially because it is not a cheap hotel for what you get.

Mid-range Hotel – Al Qualaa Boutique Hotel – This boutique hotel isn’t bad but, for what you pay, the experience should be way better. The location is unbeatable, next to Sayda Old Fort and, overall, it is in a very cute building and the breakfast is just great. However, people complain about small details, like power cuts, the shower was not working and a large etcetera.

Day 12 – Tyre – Your beach destination in Lebanon

The most southern city in Lebanon, Tyre brags about being the place where you find the best beaches in the country.

In summer, every day, tons of Lebanese come from Beirut to spend the day and chill at its beaches and eat awesome seafood at the many restaurants that are found around the harbor.

In Tyre, you also find a castle, Roman ruins, a corniche, and a beautiful and colorful harbor, full of seafood restaurants.

How to get to Tyre from Beirut

Tyre is 90 kilometers from Beirut and buses leave from Cola Station.

However, you should first take a bus to Sayda and, from there, take the second one to Tyre.

Where to stay in Tyre

In Tyre, accommodation is super expensive. I didn’t stay there but, if you are a beach lover and you can afford it, this is the most popular hotel:

Mid-range Hotel – Asamina Boutique Hotel – Tastefully furnished and with really cozy rooms and comfortable beds and located in the old city, very close to the sea, this is one of the best boutique hotels in the country. They serve an amazing traditional breakfast, with really fresh products and the staff are just extremely accommodating. I think this is the best option in Tyre, better than any of the other resorts, which kind of lack of personality and authenticity.

Day 13 – Go off-beat – The wall that separates Lebanon from Israel

Both Lebanon and Israel have been in continuous war for several decades and, today, diplomatic relations between both countries don’t exist, since they still consider each other to be enemies. This is one of the most sensitive borders in the world.

These two Middle Eastern countries share a 79-kilometer border. For the most part, it is unreachable, as it’s located too far from the road. But I was told that there’s one area where you can actually get close to it. I liked the idea pretty much, so I decided to go there.

Visiting it is an adventure, as the whole area is full of military facilities and soldiers from the United Nations, who are guarding the border.

You need to be very cautious when visiting it. I was there by myself, with a camera, and I got arrested.

Please note that this is a Hezbollah area, which means that a permit is required . It’s very easy to obtain and you can get it at the police station in the city of Sayda.

They give it to you instantly but remember that a permit makes you eligible to enter the area and it doesn’t mean that you can take pictures or walk freely along the wall.

How to get to the Wall from Beirut

Be aware that it is not recommended to get there by public transportation, as you will trigger the suspicion of the Hezbollah Army.

It is not about walking around the wall but just that tourists never go there, so seeing a dude wandering there by himself is kind of weird, according to their eyes.

As I said, I got arrested when I was there but, in part, it was because I had a camera hanging from my shoulder.

Going there on your is your own responsibility but, if you decide to go, here’s how to get there by public transportation.

From Beirut, go to Cola Station and take a bus to Sayda. From Sayda, take a bus to Nabatiyeh. In Nabatiyeh, you need to take a shared taxi towards Kfarkela. You have to drop off as soon as you see the wall. Please note that you may have to wait for over an hour for the taxi to be completely full.

❗ More information to complement your Lebanon itinerary

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Lebanon destination

• Beirut Travel Guide
• Solo Female Travel Guide in Lebanon
• Is Lebanon Safe

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

• Iran Travel Guide
• Iraq Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Oman
• Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
• Syria Travel Guide
• Palestine Travel Guide
• Yemen Travel Guide

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East .

58 comments

Wow, Lebanon looks beautiful! I like the mix of elements it seems to have based on your photos. I’ve always been a fan of the food too 😉

Hey Shannon, thanks for your comment. It’s a very underrated country and, the mix of elements you say, is what makes the country great ;9 ª

I am Lebanese!!! And i’m so happy you enjoyed your trip to Lebanon

Really? That’s awesome! It’s one of my favorite countries 🙂 !

I’m so glad I just stumbled on your blog. I am a Syrian/Lebanese American traveling to Lebanon for the first time in a few days. I have family in a village east of Tripoli named Aalma, I have yet to locate them but I do know that is where my family came from before migrating to the US. I will be spending a week traveling across Lebanon, a journey I have dreamt of for a long time coming.

Not to keep you for too long but I wanted to thank you for shedding light on Lebanon. A country which is mistakenly given a bad reputation due to strict travel warnings from my government.

Hey man! That’s amazing that you are going on a trip to Lebanon to know more about where your family comes from. Are you going to stay with some relatives? Please, do let me know if I can help you with anything. Cheers,

Hey, do you think I can show up at the cheap hotels in Tripoli and Baalbek and there will be a room available? By the way when you speak about Zahlé you say it’s called Berdawini but it’s Berdawni.

Hard to say, man. I went during low season and one of the hotels in Baalbek was fully booked… If there’s the option, I would book in advance!

Wanting to travel to Lebanon do many people speak English? Do I need a guide? If so what’s the charge. And where is the airport? Close to what country

Hi Linda. Most educated people speak English. You don’t necessarily need a guide, it’s up to you. The airport is in Beirut.

Amazing Joan. What a special place.

Is it possible to arrive by boat from Cyprus? And how much is a visa?

Yes, it’s possible and visa is free

Hey i am planning a one week Lebanon. Is it possible to cover all the famous destinations within one week?

Hi, maybe you could cover Beirut, Baalbek, Byblos and Tripoli, yes, why not.

Can all these be done as day trips? The hotel in Tripoli is expensive.

hi, do you think having my wedding in LEBANON (BERUIT) is a good idea/

Sure, why not 🙂 ?

Hello there,

Your blog about Lebanon is really great ! My parents are lebanese and Im going there for the 1st time this summer. I really liked your itinerary. I was wondering if we needed a private driver to go from one place to another when we leave Beirut, since there isn’t really public transportations outside of Beirut. For example, I want to visit the cedars, and I would also like to go from byblos to Baalbek. Cheers!

Hello! There is public transportation all over the country, you don’t need to worry about anything. Only to the cedars, you may need to hire a taxi, including the taxi. In the article itself I give plenty of transportation tips, like how to get from each city to the other

Hey Joan Thanks for your blog! I enjoyed reading it. I’m going to Lebanon for eight days, so far I plan to stay in Beirut for three nights, nearby Chouwen lake for two nights and then to Byblos and/or Tripoli. Do you think I’m trying to cram too much in? I’d love to hear any thoughts you might have on that plan. Thanks

Hi Madeline, 8 days is good enough for what you want to visit and I think you can even visit both Byblos and Tripoli, spending 1 night in each.

we are looking for a great in -Lebanon travel organiser to essentially fix all elements of our trip for us. Maybe not the flight from the UK but everything else. 8-10 days. Can you recommend either the best local company for that or even one based here in the UK looking to come in either May or October.

Many thanks for this blog.

Hi Keith, I don’t know about any specific travel agency for Lebanon, sorry. I did everything independently

Fab information! Do you know if having a Lebanese stamp in your passport will stop you from entering any countries – and if so, which?

Thanks! Emily

Hey Emily, no, it won’t stop you from going anywhere. Please, refer to this for more information: https://againstthecompass.com/en/avoid-israeli-passport-stamp/

Hi there, I enjoyed reading your blog. We’re going to Lebanon from the UK for two weeks in October. We’re planning on spending a week in Beirut, and maybe three nights in Byblos and Batroun. Does this seem a good way to divide our time? Thanks!

Hi Ellbin, it’s all right, but try to save one day for going to Baalbek at least!

Hi Joan, Just a few questions as you seem pretty familiar with the middle east. Will it be an issue entering Israel with visas from Sudan, Kurdistan and Syria? Am planning a trip to cover Lebanon, Israel and Jordan early next year and am considering adding on Kurdistan or Syria. Any ideas on itineraries. Will have to do at least one flight from Kurdistan and also from Lebanon to Jordan if not crossing through Syria.

Hi Melody! I suggest you check out this post 🙂 https://againstthecompass.com/en/avoid-israeli-passport-stamp/

Hi! I just booked my tickets to go to Lebanon in September. I’ll stay there for 2 weeks! I’ll spend about one week in Beirut (visiting some places from there), and then I’ll explore the Q. Valley and do lots of hiking. Thanks SO much for this information, it’s been very helpful! I also love the Middle East. I’m getting ready to go to Israel (second time) with my kids :). We’ll spend more time in the North this time. Blessings!!!

Thank you, Laura, have a great time in Lebanon!

Hi Joan, I read your blog and a couple of others and booked a trip to Lebanon a couple of months ago and was really exited. However, I have just read that if you have the exit stamp into Jordan on your passport you won’t get passed border control (even when flying from the UK) in Beirut. We went to Israel and Jordan in 2018 so I have the entry, exist and “residence for one month” stamps in my passport. Do I need to cancel my trip? We are due to leave on Sunday so I’m not really concerned we won’t be able to go. Thanks, Alex

P.S. I have already read your blog “avoid Israeli stamp” but there was only one stamp on the passport photo in this blog. We have two which I assume is entry and exit as we left and then returned to Israel. Surely these would be the stamps you would get if you entered and exited the country from anywhere?

Where did you enter and exit from, via airport or by land?

Hi Alex, a Jordanian stamp is fine but you won’t get into Lebanon with an Israeli stamp. Just change your passport, report it lost or something, probably cheaper than cancelling your trip.

Hi, please advise if it is still safe to go to Tripoli, I supposed to meet my engaged and get married there next month…I will wait for him at Beirut airport and then go to tripoli….

Yes, Tripoli is very safe

I’ve been to Lebanon a year ago and agree with most of what is said, except for food and accommodation because I was hidted by locals.

Naqoura and the very South are a gem undisturbed by big hotel complexes. A permit us indeed needed but not because it’s un Hezbollah territory but because it’s UNIFIL zone. You do have to get it in Salida but it takes a while and the process is quite opaque. Plan in advance if you can

Sorry about the typos, I should have read before posting.But I guess the text can be understood. And it’s Saida, not Salida, of course

Dear Joan, Thank you for your excellent information on Lebanon. A remark and a question: – The text of LEBANON TRAVEL GUIDE: A 2-WEEK ITINERARY appears only in Spanish (English flag not working) – Is it OK to get visum at Beirut Airport if passport contains stamp from Iran? Thanks.

Thanks for telling me, I really appreciate it. It’s been fixed now 🙂

Yes, no problem to enter Lebanon if you have an Iranian visa or stamp.

Hello Joan, This is a request that I take the liberty to put on your blog. As part of a master class in photojournalism with the National Geographic magazine I am looking for a ‘story’ in Beirut. For this I need to find a local guide to ‘develop’ this story. To show me around Beirut, make the contacts etc. Not so much the tourist sites but the life itself, after the explosion. I would be very grateful for your suggestions.

Thanks for the info. As of Oct. 29, a Covid test is no longer required.

Many thanks for an excellent blog post! Great to know about bringing currency to exchange before visiting Lebanon. I am visiting Lebanon for the first time in May for two weeks. I intend on booking a hostel online in Beirut to base myself for day trips for the first week and then go hiking around Kadisha Valley and spending time around Baalbek before flying onwards.

My question is – approximately how much $US/day would you recommend bringing over with you? I plan on staying in hostels/budget hotel, using public transport where possible and doing a bit of solo hiking. Just wanted to know a ballpark figure so that I don’t find myself short and have to use my debit or credit card and deal with the terrible exchange rate offered by the banks.

Hi Sam! I think you need around $50 a day, so I’d bring the equivalent of 70 a day, just in case! But it’s always hard to say. There are so many restaurants and night bars in Beirut, so you also need to think about that!

I was thinking about this itinerary, private tour, two people, hotel 3/4 only breakfast, if is possible italian speaking guide: 1 arrival beirut 2 beirut 3 Jeita Grottoes – Harissa – Byblos 4 Tripoli-Ehden 5 Valley of the Cedars – Baalbek -Zahle 6 Anjar – Beittedine – Deir al Qamar 7 Tire – Sidon 8 Beirut – Italy Greetings. Ilario giacometti

Thank you so much for this fantastic post! I was wondering how late are the last buses from places like Byblos and Baalbek since most of the hotels are expensive/booked out? Thanks again for making such a great page!!!

Hi Dhruv, I am not entirely sure, maybe around 7pm?

Hola Joan. Gracias por tu gran e interesante y profesional información de tu blog. De todos los países que visitas En cuanto a Líbano.. no es conveniente llevar euros? Se usa más dolares? Gracias

Hola Poli, en general, puedes cambiar de euros a libras libanesas sin problema alguno.

Sin embargo, hay hoteles que solo aceptan pago en efectivo y en dólares.

Lo que resulta mejor es llevarlo todo en euros y para el hotel, cambiarlos allí mismo a dólares. La tasa que ofrecen es mucho mejor que si compras dólares en Europa.

Lo que yo hago es llevar todo en euros, y lo cambio todo a libras o a dólares.

Hi, I´ve seen some comments and foregin governments advising not to go to Baleek. Is there any threat of doing this? Seems like a very touristic place. Going to Lebanon in october.

Hi Simon, it’s fine, it’s just that in that region there’s been local issues related to drug trafficking

Hi this is an awesome resource thanks so much for putting it together. Just wondering what the weather is like in October ( first couple of weeks). Want to go when it’s hot. Thanks

October is autumn, not super hot but pleasant

Hi, Do you still recommend going to Lebanon in March?

Beirut and more north than that should be fine to travel

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Is It Safe to Travel to Lebanon in 2024? Know Before You Go

• On Sep 9, 2022

Is Lebanon a safe country to visit? What is the current safety situation, and is it a good idea to travel to Lebanon when most western governments advise against all but essential travel? After a couple of weeks of travelling around Lebanon in April 2022, we created this post to help you understand the safety situation in the country. What is it like to travel to places that suffered almost 30 years of Civil war, went through the economic and political crisis and the massive port explosion in 2020 that left the central part of Beirut damaged. One would say it is more than enough. 

Lebanon is a small country that shares its borders with its big enemy, Israel, in the south. And the north and east with Syria, which is currently in war. With its own city of Baalbek, which is the centre of Hezbollah. Yes, that’s pure chaos, and there is no surprise that Lebanon is considered dangerous to travel to. And by any means, we can’t underestimate this fact. However, after spending a few weeks in the country, we have a different opinion. 

Even though Lebanon is small, you will be surprised how many natural wonders you can see in the country and cities that change the character and make you feel you have travelled to a different country and not just a few km from each other. 

We visited many interesting places such as traditional Tyre, Saida, the home to the oldest hotel in Lebanon, Baalbek, authentic Tripoli, Christian Byblos or Qadisha Valley and its monasteries. Learn more about these places and get inspired by our 11 days itinerary.

Essential reading:   How to travel to Lebanon & 11 days itinerary

QUICK OVERVIEW

• Economic crisis and inflation led to a drop of 90% in the Lebanese Pound value – it is necessary to bring cash to the country.
• The massive port explosion in Beirut port is under control; many buildings are destroyed, but reconstructions taking place. 
• Occasional demonstrations are taking place around the country – avoid that places.
• There is no war in Lebanon! It is an economic and political crisis, and the biggest threat comes from the problems with neighbouring countries (Israel, Syria)

As of April 2022, the situation is very under control, which means that if you avoid some dangerous areas (read below), you will have a great time as a traveller. We found Lebanon a very safe country to travel around. In fact, Beirut and Lebanon, in general, are one of the safest places to visit I’m the Middle East! However, it is necessary to check before travelling, as the situation in sensitive areas might change quickly. 

IS LEBANON SAFE FOR TOURISTS? 

It’s hard to summarize the problems in Lebanon in one short sentence. Almost 30 years old civil war ended in 1990, followed by a political and economic crisis that, until today, is a big issue without any end in plain sight. Ongoing conflicts with Israel make the south of the country an absolute no-go zone, and the north and east are under the thread of overspill of the current war in Syria. Which, to be honest, isn’t very likely to happen. Not talking about the surge of Syrian and Palestinian refugees in the country. The Beeqa Valley is entirely controlled by Hezbollah. Lebanon is a sensitive area that requires a lot of research before you travel there.

Basically, you should be very careful and avoid all areas close to the borders. Yes, all borders. In the south occasional missiles attack from Israel have been recorded, and the border with Syria is a susceptible area since the ongoing war on the Syrian side.

There are occasional clashes and incidents in cities, but it usually affects just specific neighbourhoods, where you have no business being around, and it doesn’t affect tourists in the country. 

As much as all mentioned above is true, it is usually pretty safe to travel to Lebanon for travellers. 

We went there in April 2022, felt absolutely safe, had an awesome trip to the country and met just the friendliest people. In our opinion, the only danger waiting for you is meeting the most hospitable people, eating the delicious falafel until you explode, fascinating cultural diversity and breathtaking natural wonders. 

TRAVEL INSURANCE FOR LEBANON 

Finding the right insurance provider when going to countries labelled as high risk of danger might be an issue. Make sure your travel insurance covers you when going to Lebanon and Syria if you decide to visit. One of the few travel insurance providers who cover Lebanon, including Covid 19 expenses, is IATI Insurance. As a reader of Broken Navigation, you also get an exclusive discount of 5% when purchasing through our link. 

Get your 5% discount for travel insurance with IATI here.

THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT THE SAFETY IN LEBANON 

As mentioned, Lebanon is a very safe country for travellers if you stick to the tourist path. In our eyes, there is no real danger; if you don’t act stupid, you will be surprised that Lebanon is as normal as any other country you would travel to in Europe/Middle East.

The information below isn’t meant to scare you from going to Lebanon! It is just a list of things you should know and be prepared for. In our case, the biggest issue was the lack of electricity, but this can be easily avoided if you stay in middle-range accommodations, as we mostly stayed in budget places ($20-35 per night). And the next important thing to be ready for was to bring enough cash.

Check prices of good hotels in Lebanon here.

Refugees in Palestine and Syria  

The population in Lebanon is increasing due to a load of refugees from Syria and Palestina. It means a big tension between people as the unemployment rate rises, and it also brings cultural differences, creating an unstable environment. Many Palestinians are stateless, with only the possibility of staying in refugee camps. It might be tempting to visit these places, but we wouldn’t recommend it to you. 

Hezbollah in Lebanon 

Hezbollah controls the area of Beeka Valley near Baalbek. Baalbek being a safe city to travel to, we spend two days exploring its ancient ruins. You should absolutely forget about getting off the beaten track and going to other parts of Beeka Valley. Anyway, there is nothing wild going on most of the time, but you, as a tourist with the camera, will be highly suspicious. 

Economic crisis 

The biggest problem is currently the economic crisis caused by corrupt and unstable government. The Lebanese Pound lost 90% of its value since 2019, which suddenly changed the destiny of millions of people into poverty. Today’s result is massive inflation that causes many people can’t afford basic things such as food, medicine and fuel. 

Money 

For us travellers, it means you have to bring cash to the country; otherwise when paying by card or withdrawing money from ATM, you lose 90% of the money. Imagine paying for dinner in a restaurant for $10; if you pay by card, you end up paying $100!!! 

Bring $ dollar or € euro and change it on a black market on Hamra street. The current exchange rate in April 2022 was $1 = LBP 23500. 

Fuel was widely available during our visit; therefore, we didn’t experience any issues with transportation. We also met many travellers who actually rented a car and drove around the country alone. 

Electricity 

The only issue you will face is the electricity shortcuts. Especially if you stay in budget places, chances are the hotel won’t have electricity for a big part of the day. In the hotels where we stay, it usually worked the following way. During check-in, they informed us what times the electricity works and when it is turned off. It usually was as they said. Sometimes there were longer shortcuts, so it is good to have a power bank. The street light in cities doesn’t work at all. If you drive a car, not even the tunnel lights work.

Simply put, if people have their own generators, they have electricity in stores. If they can’t afford it, they sit in darkness. The same applies to people’s homes. 

Checkpoints 

There are occasional army checkpoints when you travel in Lebanon. In our experience, they stopped the bus only once, on the way to Baalbek. They just checked the passports/IDs and let us go quickly. For these reasons, ensure you always have your passport with you, even when going for a short trip. 

Crime is basically non-existing

In the cities, you might experience pickpocketing, even though very rarely. Other than that, the crime rate in Lebanon is extremely low. Lebanon is a safe country for solo female travellers, couples as well as families. People are generally very honest, and except for a few taxi drivers, we didn’t even experience any rip-offs. 

It’s a mixture of religions

Lebanon is one of the most fascinating countries in the world, where several religions coexist peacefully – Christians, Sunnis and Shias Muslims. Beer is widely available, and Beirut has the liveliest nightlife scene in the whole Middle East. 

Essential reading:  Ultimate travel guide to Beirut: Top places to visit in 2022

True is that governments try to shy you away from going to Lebanon. However, the truth is the country is pretty safe for tourists when visiting the main attractions and cities. 

TIPS FOR YOUR SAFETY 

• Don’t get off the beaten track – seriously. It is more dangerous in the south as there might be unexploded missiles from Israel. 
• Get a local guide if you don’t feel like being alone – it might get overwhelming to come to Lebanon alone (even though we believe it is very safe and doable). If you feel like  finding a local guide, here . He will accompany you and show you the best places around Lebanon. 
• No photos of military places – the army is very sensitive if they catch you taking photos on your expensive camera. Don’t do it. 
• Don’t get closer to demonstrations – demonstrations might happen occasionally, and avoiding these areas is best!
• Avoid discussions about politics and religion – since Lebanon has huge religious diversity, you are never sure who you are talking with and who might be listening and be offended by your opinion. Lebanon is not a great country to be aloud about your political and religious opinions, no matter how true they might be.
• Get a local data Simcard and power bank – the electricity cuts are common, and actually, some hotels won’t have electricity during the day. It means no wifi. To stay updated and connected, ensure you have a local Simcard with data and power bank to keep your electronics charged. 

AREAS TO AVOID IN LEBANON 

Even though we believe most of the country is safe. There is still a small percentage of places you should definitely avoid. As a regular traveller, you have no reasons to come to those places, as there is nothing to see anyway. Check the places below.

• Avoid all travels  to the northeast (Hermel Area) of Lebanon, which is an absolute no go zone. Border with Syria; however,  crossing between Beirut and Damascus  is relatively safe. 
• Don’t risk it in those places :

Beirut:  Southern suburbs of Beirut, South of sports stadium.

Tripoli:  suburbs of Bab al Tabbaneh, Jabal Mohsen. Tripoli also often mentioned as a city that is not very safe. However, during our visit, we felt very safe. There is a bigger army presence than in any other city, making us feel safer and more comfortable. 

Baalbek & Beeka Valley:  common area for drug smuggling and the main headquarter of Hezbollah. The city itself is safe.

South Lebanon:  South of Litani river except for Sour (Tyre) because of the unexploded missiles send between Lebanon and Israel. 

The safety level in places is constantly changing; make sure you check the latest info on the web of the government and make your own decisions.

CAN YOU CROSS BORDERS TO SYRIA? 

Absolutely! But again, check the situation right before going. We crossed the overland border between Beirut (Lebanon) and Damascus (Syria) in April 2022, and everything went smoothly. We had an excellent trip around Syria, and if it’s something that interests you, read more details in our detailed Syria article. 

Essential reading:  How to visit Syria in 2022 & Is it safe?

Lebanon has a pretty good flight connection to many countries. You can take a 30-minute flight to Cyprus to explore the ghost town of Varosha in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Or, to explore the Middle East a bit further and eat tons of freshly made falafel and tea, fly to Erbil in Iraqi Kurdistan, like us. Check all the cheap flights to and from Beirut here .

Did you find everything you need to know to plan your safe trip to Lebanon? Don’t hesitate to drop us a comment below in the comment section if you miss some information. 

The situation in Lebanon is changing very quickly. Therefore we would appreciate any feedback or updates from you, adventurous travellers, as we would love to keep this post as updated as possible. 

More from Middle east

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It’s time to plan your trip!

Find our travel resources below that help you plan your next trip. Good luck and safe travels.

Book your flight

Skyscanner is our favourite tool for searching for the cheapest flights and flight combinations. Multi-city or Explore Everywhere helps us to find real bargains.

The best platform to rent a car and compare the prices for your next road trip anywhere in the world is Discovercars.com . The booking process is hassle-free.

Find your acommodation

On Booking.com we always find the best deals for accommodation. Another great option for cheap accommodation is Hostelworld .

Travel insurance

We always recommend IATI Travel Insurance which offers excellent plans. As a reader of Broken Navigation, get an exclusive 5% discount. For Europeans Truetraveller offers perfect travel insurance for the best price.

Explore more with Tours

Some places are better off explored with a knowledgeable guide. Or, if you simply want to save time and hassle, we recommend GetYourGuide . Another great option that also has an amazing range of activities is Viator .

protect yourself online by VPN

We always use  NordVPN  everywhere we travel for safe internet browsing and access to specific sites that might be blocked.

Disclosure: We recommend only companies we personally use. If you book services through any of the affiliate links in our posts, it earns us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Travelling for years now, she found the passion in unique and off the beaten path places. Romana is a food lover, but it doesn’t stop her from hiking the mountains for several days. By sharing her experiences, she wants to help you experience the same.

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Lebanon Traveler View

Travel health notices, vaccines and medicines, non-vaccine-preventable diseases, stay healthy and safe.

• Packing List

After Your Trip

Be aware of current health issues in Lebanon. Learn how to protect yourself.

Level 1 Practice Usual Precautions

• Global Measles July 24, 2024 Many international destinations are reporting increased numbers of cases of measles. Destination List: Afghanistan, Angola, Armenia, Austria, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Benin, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Côte d'Ivoire (Ivory Coast), Democratic Republic of the Congo, Djibouti, Equatorial Guinea, Ethiopia, Gabon, Georgia, Ghana, India, Indonesia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Lebanon, Liberia, Malaysia, Mali, Mauritania, Niger, Nigeria, Pakistan, Philippines, Qatar, Republic of South Sudan, Republic of the Congo, Romania, Russia, San Marino, Senegal, Somalia, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Syria, Togo, Turkey, United Arab Emirates, Uzbekistan, Yemen, Zambia

⇧ Top

Check the vaccines and medicines list and visit your doctor at least a month before your trip to get vaccines or medicines you may need. If you or your doctor need help finding a location that provides certain vaccines or medicines, visit the Find a Clinic page.

Routine vaccines

Recommendations.

Make sure you are up-to-date on all routine vaccines before every trip. Some of these vaccines include

• Chickenpox (Varicella)
• Diphtheria-Tetanus-Pertussis
• Flu (influenza)
• Measles-Mumps-Rubella (MMR)

Immunization schedules

All eligible travelers should be up to date with their COVID-19 vaccines. Please see  Your COVID-19 Vaccination  for more information. 

COVID-19 vaccine

Hepatitis A

Recommended for unvaccinated travelers one year old or older going to Lebanon.

Infants 6 to 11 months old should also be vaccinated against Hepatitis A. The dose does not count toward the routine 2-dose series.

Travelers allergic to a vaccine component should receive a single dose of immune globulin, which provides effective protection for up to 2 months depending on dosage given.

Unvaccinated travelers who are over 40 years old, immunocompromised, or have chronic medical conditions planning to depart to a risk area in less than 2 weeks should get the initial dose of vaccine and at the same appointment receive immune globulin.

Hepatitis A - CDC Yellow Book

Dosing info - Hep A

Hepatitis B

Recommended for unvaccinated travelers younger than 60 years old traveling to Lebanon. Unvaccinated travelers 60 years and older may get vaccinated before traveling to Lebanon.

Hepatitis B - CDC Yellow Book

Dosing info - Hep B

Cases of measles are on the rise worldwide. Travelers are at risk of measles if they have not been fully vaccinated at least two weeks prior to departure, or have not had measles in the past, and travel internationally to areas where measles is spreading.

All international travelers should be fully vaccinated against measles with the measles-mumps-rubella (MMR) vaccine, including an early dose for infants 6–11 months, according to  CDC’s measles vaccination recommendations for international travel .

Measles (Rubeola) - CDC Yellow Book

Dogs infected with rabies are commonly found in Lebanon.

Rabies is also present in some terrestrial wildlife species.

If rabies exposures occur while in Lebanon, rabies vaccines may only be available in larger suburban/urban medical facilities.

Rabies pre-exposure vaccination considerations include whether travelers 1) will be performing occupational or recreational activities that increase risk for exposure to potentially rabid animals and 2) might have difficulty getting prompt access to safe post-exposure prophylaxis.

Please consult with a healthcare provider to determine whether you should receive pre-exposure vaccination before travel.

For more information, see country rabies status assessments .

Rabies - CDC Yellow Book

Recommended for most travelers, especially those staying with friends or relatives or visiting smaller cities or rural areas.

Typhoid - CDC Yellow Book

Dosing info - Typhoid

Avoid contaminated water

Leptospirosis

How most people get sick (most common modes of transmission)

• Touching urine or other body fluids from an animal infected with leptospirosis
• Swimming or wading in urine-contaminated fresh water, or contact with urine-contaminated mud
• Drinking water or eating food contaminated with animal urine
• Avoid contaminated water and soil
• Avoid floodwater

Clinical Guidance

Avoid bug bites.

Leishmaniasis

• Sand fly bite
• Avoid Bug Bites

Airborne & droplet

• Breathing in air or accidentally eating food contaminated with the urine, droppings, or saliva of infected rodents
• Bite from an infected rodent
• Less commonly, being around someone sick with hantavirus (only occurs with Andes virus)
• Avoid rodents and areas where they live
• Avoid sick people

Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (MERS)

• Scientists do not fully understand how the MERS virus spreads
• May spread from to others when an infected person coughs or sneezes
• May spread to people from camels.

Middle East Respiratory virus syndrome (MERS)

Tuberculosis (TB)

• Breathe in TB bacteria that is in the air from an infected and contagious person coughing, speaking, or singing.

Learn actions you can take to stay healthy and safe on your trip. Vaccines cannot protect you from many diseases in Lebanon, so your behaviors are important.

Eat and drink safely

Food and water standards around the world vary based on the destination. Standards may also differ within a country and risk may change depending on activity type (e.g., hiking versus business trip). You can learn more about safe food and drink choices when traveling by accessing the resources below.

• Choose Safe Food and Drinks When Traveling
• Water Treatment Options When Hiking, Camping or Traveling
• Global Water, Sanitation and Hygiene (WASH)
• Avoid Contaminated Water During Travel

You can also visit the Department of State Country Information Pages for additional information about food and water safety.

Prevent bug bites

Bugs (like mosquitoes, ticks, and fleas) can spread a number of diseases in Lebanon. Many of these diseases cannot be prevented with a vaccine or medicine. You can reduce your risk by taking steps to prevent bug bites.

What can I do to prevent bug bites?

• Cover exposed skin by wearing long-sleeved shirts, long pants, and hats.
• Use an appropriate insect repellent (see below).
• Use permethrin-treated clothing and gear (such as boots, pants, socks, and tents). Do not use permethrin directly on skin.
• Stay and sleep in air-conditioned or screened rooms.
• Use a bed net if the area where you are sleeping is exposed to the outdoors.

What type of insect repellent should I use?

• FOR PROTECTION AGAINST TICKS AND MOSQUITOES: Use a repellent that contains 20% or more DEET for protection that lasts up to several hours.
• Picaridin (also known as KBR 3023, Bayrepel, and icaridin)
• Oil of lemon eucalyptus (OLE) or para-menthane-diol (PMD)
• 2-undecanone
• Always use insect repellent as directed.

What should I do if I am bitten by bugs?

• Avoid scratching bug bites, and apply hydrocortisone cream or calamine lotion to reduce the itching.
• Check your entire body for ticks after outdoor activity. Be sure to remove ticks properly.

What can I do to avoid bed bugs?

Although bed bugs do not carry disease, they are an annoyance. See our information page about avoiding bug bites for some easy tips to avoid them. For more information on bed bugs, see Bed Bugs .

For more detailed information on avoiding bug bites, see Avoid Bug Bites .

Stay safe outdoors

If your travel plans in Lebanon include outdoor activities, take these steps to stay safe and healthy during your trip.

• Stay alert to changing weather conditions and adjust your plans if conditions become unsafe.
• Prepare for activities by wearing the right clothes and packing protective items, such as bug spray, sunscreen, and a basic first aid kit.
• Consider learning basic first aid and CPR before travel. Bring a travel health kit with items appropriate for your activities.
• If you are outside for many hours in heat, eat salty snacks and drink water to stay hydrated and replace salt lost through sweating.
• Protect yourself from UV radiation : use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 15, wear protective clothing, and seek shade during the hottest time of day (10 a.m.–4 p.m.).
• Be especially careful during summer months and at high elevation. Because sunlight reflects off snow, sand, and water, sun exposure may be increased during activities like skiing, swimming, and sailing.
• Very cold temperatures can be dangerous. Dress in layers and cover heads, hands, and feet properly if you are visiting a cold location.

Stay safe around water

• Swim only in designated swimming areas. Obey lifeguards and warning flags on beaches.
• Practice safe boating—follow all boating safety laws, do not drink alcohol if driving a boat, and always wear a life jacket.
• Do not dive into shallow water.
• Do not swim in freshwater in developing areas or where sanitation is poor.
• Avoid swallowing water when swimming. Untreated water can carry germs that make you sick.
• To prevent infections, wear shoes on beaches where there may be animal waste.

Schistosomiasis, a parasitic infection that can be spread in fresh water, is found in Lebanon. Avoid swimming in fresh, unchlorinated water, such as lakes, ponds, or rivers.

Keep away from animals

Most animals avoid people, but they may attack if they feel threatened, are protecting their young or territory, or if they are injured or ill. Animal bites and scratches can lead to serious diseases such as rabies.

Follow these tips to protect yourself:

• Do not touch or feed any animals you do not know.
• Do not allow animals to lick open wounds, and do not get animal saliva in your eyes or mouth.
• Avoid rodents and their urine and feces.
• Traveling pets should be supervised closely and not allowed to come in contact with local animals.
• If you wake in a room with a bat, seek medical care immediately. Bat bites may be hard to see.

All animals can pose a threat, but be extra careful around dogs, bats, monkeys, sea animals such as jellyfish, and snakes. If you are bitten or scratched by an animal, immediately:

• Wash the wound with soap and clean water.
• Go to a doctor right away.
• Tell your doctor about your injury when you get back to the United States.

Consider buying medical evacuation insurance. Rabies is a deadly disease that must be treated quickly, and treatment may not be available in some countries.

Reduce your exposure to germs

Follow these tips to avoid getting sick or spreading illness to others while traveling:

• Wash your hands often, especially before eating.
• If soap and water aren’t available, clean hands with hand sanitizer (containing at least 60% alcohol).
• Don’t touch your eyes, nose, or mouth. If you need to touch your face, make sure your hands are clean.
• Cover your mouth and nose with a tissue or your sleeve (not your hands) when coughing or sneezing.
• Try to avoid contact with people who are sick.
• If you are sick, stay home or in your hotel room, unless you need medical care.

Avoid sharing body fluids

Diseases can be spread through body fluids, such as saliva, blood, vomit, and semen.

Protect yourself:

• Use latex condoms correctly.
• Do not inject drugs.
• Limit alcohol consumption. People take more risks when intoxicated.
• Do not share needles or any devices that can break the skin. That includes needles for tattoos, piercings, and acupuncture.
• If you receive medical or dental care, make sure the equipment is disinfected or sanitized.

Know how to get medical care while traveling

Plan for how you will get health care during your trip, should the need arise:

• Carry a list of local doctors and hospitals at your destination.
• Review your health insurance plan to determine what medical services it would cover during your trip. Consider purchasing travel health and medical evacuation insurance.
• Carry a card that identifies, in the local language, your blood type, chronic conditions or serious allergies, and the generic names of any medications you take.
• Some prescription drugs may be illegal in other countries. Call Lebanon’s embassy to verify that all of your prescription(s) are legal to bring with you.
• Bring all the medicines (including over-the-counter medicines) you think you might need during your trip, including extra in case of travel delays. Ask your doctor to help you get prescriptions filled early if you need to.

Many foreign hospitals and clinics are accredited by the Joint Commission International. A list of accredited facilities is available at their website ( www.jointcommissioninternational.org ).

In some countries, medicine (prescription and over-the-counter) may be substandard or counterfeit. Bring the medicines you will need from the United States to avoid having to buy them at your destination.

Select safe transportation

Motor vehicle crashes are the #1 killer of healthy US citizens in foreign countries.

In many places cars, buses, large trucks, rickshaws, bikes, people on foot, and even animals share the same lanes of traffic, increasing the risk for crashes.

Be smart when you are traveling on foot.

• Use sidewalks and marked crosswalks.
• Pay attention to the traffic around you, especially in crowded areas.
• Remember, people on foot do not always have the right of way in other countries.

Riding/Driving

Choose a safe vehicle.

• Choose official taxis or public transportation, such as trains and buses.
• Ride only in cars that have seatbelts.
• Avoid overcrowded, overloaded, top-heavy buses and minivans.
• Avoid riding on motorcycles or motorbikes, especially motorbike taxis. (Many crashes are caused by inexperienced motorbike drivers.)
• Choose newer vehicles—they may have more safety features, such as airbags, and be more reliable.
• Choose larger vehicles, which may provide more protection in crashes.

Think about the driver.

• Do not drive after drinking alcohol or ride with someone who has been drinking.
• Consider hiring a licensed, trained driver familiar with the area.
• Arrange payment before departing.

Follow basic safety tips.

• Wear a seatbelt at all times.
• Sit in the back seat of cars and taxis.
• When on motorbikes or bicycles, always wear a helmet. (Bring a helmet from home, if needed.)
• Avoid driving at night; street lighting in certain parts of Lebanon may be poor.
• Do not use a cell phone or text while driving (illegal in many countries).
• Travel during daylight hours only, especially in rural areas.
• If you choose to drive a vehicle in Lebanon, learn the local traffic laws and have the proper paperwork.
• Get any driving permits and insurance you may need. Get an International Driving Permit (IDP). Carry the IDP and a US-issued driver's license at all times.
• Check with your auto insurance policy's international coverage, and get more coverage if needed. Make sure you have liability insurance.
• Avoid using local, unscheduled aircraft.
• If possible, fly on larger planes (more than 30 seats); larger airplanes are more likely to have regular safety inspections.
• Try to schedule flights during daylight hours and in good weather.

Medical Evacuation Insurance

If you are seriously injured, emergency care may not be available or may not meet US standards. Trauma care centers are uncommon outside urban areas. Having medical evacuation insurance can be helpful for these reasons.

Helpful Resources

Road Safety Overseas (Information from the US Department of State): Includes tips on driving in other countries, International Driving Permits, auto insurance, and other resources.

The Association for International Road Travel has country-specific Road Travel Reports available for most countries for a minimal fee.

Maintain personal security

Use the same common sense traveling overseas that you would at home, and always stay alert and aware of your surroundings.

Before you leave

• Research your destination(s), including local laws, customs, and culture.
• Monitor travel advisories and alerts and read travel tips from the US Department of State.
• Enroll in the Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) .
• Leave a copy of your itinerary, contact information, credit cards, and passport with someone at home.
• Pack as light as possible, and leave at home any item you could not replace.

While at your destination(s)

• Carry contact information for the nearest US embassy or consulate .
• Carry a photocopy of your passport and entry stamp; leave the actual passport securely in your hotel.
• Follow all local laws and social customs.
• Do not wear expensive clothing or jewelry.
• Always keep hotel doors locked, and store valuables in secure areas.
• If possible, choose hotel rooms between the 2nd and 6th floors.

Healthy Travel Packing List

Use the Healthy Travel Packing List for Lebanon for a list of health-related items to consider packing for your trip. Talk to your doctor about which items are most important for you.

Why does CDC recommend packing these health-related items?

It’s best to be prepared to prevent and treat common illnesses and injuries. Some supplies and medicines may be difficult to find at your destination, may have different names, or may have different ingredients than what you normally use.

If you are not feeling well after your trip, you may need to see a doctor. If you need help finding a travel medicine specialist, see Find a Clinic . Be sure to tell your doctor about your travel, including where you went and what you did on your trip. Also tell your doctor if you were bitten or scratched by an animal while traveling.

For more information on what to do if you are sick after your trip, see Getting Sick after Travel .

Map Disclaimer - The boundaries and names shown and the designations used on maps do not imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention concerning the legal status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning the delimitation of its frontiers or boundaries. Approximate border lines for which there may not yet be full agreement are generally marked.

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COVID-19: travel health notice for all travellers

Lebanon travel advice

Latest updates: Editorial change

Last updated: August 7, 2024 15:55 ET

On this page

Safety and security, entry and exit requirements, laws and culture, natural disasters and climate, lebanon - avoid all travel.

The security situation can deteriorate further without warning.

If the armed conflict intensifies it could impact your ability to depart the country by commercial means. Some airlines have already temporarily suspended their service to Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport. Additional travel disruptions are likely, including airspace closures and flight cancellations and diversions.

You should not rely on the Government of Canada for assisted departure or evacuation. Since October 2023, the Government of Canada has advised Canadians to leave Lebanon while commercial options remain available.

In the event of an evacuation, Government of Canada assisted departures will only be available to Canadian citizens and permanent residents in Lebanon, as well as their accompanying spouse and dependent children. All travellers will require valid travel documents for their assisted departure. The required onward travel to Canada from a safe third location will be at your own expense.

Make sure your travel documents and those of your spouse and children are up to date and secure at all times.

You should leave by commercial means now, if you can do so safely.

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Security situation in Beirut and southern Lebanon

The situation in Lebanon remains volatile and unpredictable due to violent and intensifying clashes along the border with Israel, including daily rocket and missile fire as well as air strikes. On July 30, 2024, explosions caused by suspected drone strikes occurred in the Haret Hreik area of Beirut, resulting in casualties. The attacks are related to the ongoing conflict in the region and could lead to serious escalation of hostilities in Lebanon.

Your safety and security could be at risk. If you intend to travel to Lebanon despite the advisory, you should :

• prepare to shelter in place for a long period of time
• consult local authorities and/or experienced local partners
• plan a secure route
• monitor the security situation where you are travelling

Emergency situations may require you to stock up on food, water and medications.

If you are in Lebanon, including in Beirut:

• be extremely vigilant and aware of your surroundings
• book a flight to leave the country now, if you can do so safely
• expect a heightened security presence
• carry identification documents at all times
• avoid the area along the borders with Israel and Syria
• make sure your passport and travel documents are up-to-date, including those of your family
• register and update your contact information through the Registration of Canadians Abroad service and encourage other Canadian citizens in Lebanon to do so

Security situation

The security situation is precarious in Lebanon. Large-scale protests in response to the situation in Israel, the West Bank and the Gaza Strip have lead to civil unrest, particularly in Beirut. Protestors have targeted foreign embassies and international organizations.

The country faces a major economic crisis, resulting in severe shortages of basic necessities including medicines and fuel. Tensions and altercations between individuals waiting at gas stations and pharmacies have occurred outside Beirut. The economic instability has also affected the delivery of public services, including healthcare.

The crime rate is on the rise. Decreasing resources within security forces affects law enforcement capabilities.

Pre-existing sectarian tensions, coupled with the spillover of the conflict in Syria, are also playing a destabilizing role in the country.

2SLGBTQI+ persons

2SLGBTQI+ persons are discriminated against based on their sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression or sex characteristics. Incitement to violence and attacks on 2SLGBTQI+ persons occur. On August 23, 2023, members of an organized group stormed a queer-friendly bar in Beirut and physically attacked clients.

There are reports of individuals using popular dating apps and websites to threaten, extort and blackmail 2SLGBTQI+ persons.

• Beware of people who show a keen interest online
• You could be the victim of a scam if you agree to meet with an online acquaintance
• Always meet new acquaintances in a secure and familiar location
• Inviting a stranger to your hotel room or apartment can be risky

Travel and your sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression and sex characteristics

Areas South of Litani River

The United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon (UNIFIL) maintains additional peacekeepers south of the Litani River near the border with Israel due to the security situation. This region remains highly militarized and volatile. Rocket launches and border incidents resulting in casualties occasionally occur, provoking retaliatory attacks in this region and elsewhere in Lebanon.

Forces other than the Lebanese authorities exert significant control over parts of this region. Access restrictions may delay or prevent Canadian officials from providing assistance to citizens in these areas.

The international border between Lebanon and Israel is not entirely defined. UNIFIL enforces the Blue Line, which separates the two countries. Areas adjacent to the Blue Line are often heavily mined. The areas of Ghajar, Kfar Shouba Hills and Shebaa Farms are inaccessible from Lebanon. The border with Israel is closed.

Avoid all travel south of the Litani River, especially near the border with Israel due to ongoing military activity.

If you are travelling to the city of Tyre, use only the main coastal highway. Travel permits from Lebanese authorities and/or UNIFIL may be required to enter areas south of the Litani River that border Israel.

Southern Suburbs of Beirut

Armed groups are present in large parts of Beirut’s southern suburbs. These neighbourhoods are targets for organized crime and terrorist attacks causing deaths and injuries. Tactics used by terrorists include car bombing, suicide bombing and rocket fire. There is also a risk of kidnapping and you could be caught in violent clashes between armed groups.

North Lebanon

While Lebanese security forces have conducted operations in northern Lebanon to improve the security situation, some parts of the region remain unstable. Some of these areas have experienced inter-communal violence that can spread to outlying areas. Heavy weapons fire (machine guns, grenades and rocket-propelled grenades), sniper activity and terrorist incidents have occurred.

Extremist groups have sought refuge in northern Lebanon, including throughout Akkar District.

Border region with Syria

The security situation in regions bordering Syria has deteriorated as a result of the ongoing conflict. Armed groups as well as the Lebanese and Syrian military have carried out operations resulting in casualties. Tensions between armed groups have also increased in border areas, resulting in violent clashes and kidnappings.

The border is not always clearly marked.

North Eastern Bekaa Valley

The security situation in the North Eastern Bekaa Valley is volatile and there is an ongoing risk of sporadic violence, organized crime, and kidnapping.

Palestinian refugee camps

The security situation in Palestinian refugee camps and surrounding areas remains tense and unpredictable. Violence is common in some camps—particularly Ain el Helweh, near Saida, and Beddawi, near Tripoli.

Refugee camps are often located close to urban centres and are not always visibly demarcated. Exercise caution and remain aware of your whereabouts at all times in order to avoid unknowingly entering a camp. Palestinian authorities control the security in most camps and may delay or refuse to grant Canadian officials access to Canadian in these areas.

There’s a threat of terrorism. Attacks can occur at any time and any place in Lebanon.

Targets could include:

• government buildings, military installations and schools
• places of worship
• airports and other transportation hubs and networks
• public areas such as tourist attractions, restaurants, bars, coffee shops, shopping centres, markets, hotels and other sites frequented by foreigners

Local authorities are on a high state of alert and carry out anti-terrorism operations across the country to prevent attacks. The potential for attacks and a rapid deterioration of the security situation remains across the country, including in Beirut.

There is a significant presence of terrorist groups in several areas of southern Lebanon, including in the southern suburbs of Beirut and the northern Bekaa Valley. Armed actors other than Lebanese authorities exert a large amount of control in some areas, and they may delay or prevent Canadian officials from assisting Canadians in the region.

Politically-motivated attacks also remain likely. A number of such attacks have taken place in the southern suburbs of Beirut.

Always be aware of your surroundings when in public places. Be particularly vigilant during sporting events, religious holidays and other public celebrations. Terrorists may use such occasions to mount attacks.

Lebanon is experiencing chronic fuel shortages. You may have some difficulties securing fuel.

There are frequent, prolonged and unpredictable closures of fuel stations. Long lineups have formed at gas stations, creating road blockades which have led to several accidents. Arguments and violent altercations, sometimes involving use of weapons have also occurred. Decrease in fuel quality has also been reported causing damages to vehicles.

Fuel and diesel shortages are also impacting other sectors such as:

• telecommunication, including internet
• water and waste collection
• shops, cafes and restaurants

The difficulty to access fuel and diesel has led to frequent unplanned closures of power generators and interruptions in the delivery of basic commodities such as water, flour, and gas.

Medicine and medical supplies

There are shortages of medicine and medical supplies. When available, these may be very costly. Such shortages have also significantly affected the health care sector, with many private hospitals closing or reducing their services.

Ensure that your emergency kit is complete.

Exchange rates and foreign currency

In recent months, the value of the Lebanese Pound has depreciated quickly against the US Dollar. As a result, there is a high inflation on prices of most goods and services. The economic situation could affect your ability to pay for goods and services.

There is also a severe shortage of foreign currency. It is very difficult to access US Dollars locally. Change in foreign currency may also not be available. While ATMs are generally stocked with Lebanese Pounds, there may be limits on daily withdrawals imposed by certain banks.

Many stores and companies no longer accept credit/debit cards.

• Plan accordingly
• Ensure that you have access to adequate cash
• Avoid carrying large sums of cash on yourself and keep foreign currency out of sight

Power disruptions

Power outages and rationing of electricity are common in many parts of the country, including in Beirut. They may affect critical infrastructure, such as hospitals. They could also affect other essential services such as food production and distribution.

Other services are often disrupted during such events, including:

• public water supply
• communications, mainly cellular telephone and Internet

Demonstrations

The deterioration of the security environment and the political uncertainty may lead to an increase in civil unrest at any time. Planned and spontaneous demonstrations related to the domestic and regional situations regularly occur in Lebanon, particularly in Beirut.

Even peaceful demonstrations can turn violent at any time. They can also lead to disruptions to traffic and public transportation.

The road to Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport is subject to sporadic closures, due to various factors including clashes between various local groups. Access to the airport may be unavailable for extended periods when the security situation deteriorates.

• Avoid all areas where demonstrations and large gatherings are taking place
• Allow extra time to get to and from the airport
• Follow the instructions of local authorities
• Monitor local media for information on ongoing demonstrations

Mass gatherings (large-scale events)

Kidnappings have occurred in the border areas with Syria, in the Bekaa Valley and could happen in other parts of Lebanon. In the southern suburbs of Beirut, foreigners and residents have been held against their will. Although most incidents of kidnapping typically involve Lebanese residents, foreigners have also been targeted. Maintain a high level of vigilance at all times.

Landmines and unexploded ordnance continue to pose a threat in some parts of the country, including south of the Litani River and near the northeastern border region.

• Look for posted landmine warnings
• Stay on paved roads
• Avoid walking or hiking in these areas.

Petty crime has significantly increased since 2020. Purse snatching, pick pocketing, car thefts, and residential break-ins, occur regularly.

There are reports of thefts at Beirut’s international airport. Criminals have stolen goods from luggage, looking especially for medications.

• Be vigilant in all crowded locations
• Don’t carry large sums of money
• Ensure that your personal belongings, including your passport and other travel documents, are secure at all times

Violent crime and sexual assault have also increased. Shooting incidents, especially at gas stations, have led to injuries and deaths of civilians.

There is a highly visible security presence throughout the country. 

• Exercise vigilance and appropriate safety precautions
• Carry personal documentation with you and follow the instructions of Lebanese security authorities

Road safety

Congestion and aggressive driving are serious problems throughout the country. Drivers often don’t respect the rules of the road, and traffic laws are not consistently enforced. Be cautious when crossing streets, as drivers don’t always give pedestrians and cyclists the right of way.

Road accidents and serious road rage incidents causing injury or death are common in Lebanon.

Road lighting is sporadic and unreliable in urban areas and virtually non-existent in rural areas. At night, many drivers use their high beams exclusively, often creating a serious hazard due to blinding glare. Increased power cuts have led to interruptions of traffic lights in the city centre, including at major intersections.

Public transportation

Avoid public transportation, which is crowded, unsafe and unreliable.

Foreigners using shared transportation have been victims of armed robbery, either by the driver or other passengers. Most major hotel chains will have an agreement with a reputable taxi company and can arrange the taxi for you.

• Don’t use shared or “service” taxis.
• Always pre-arrange transportation with a safe and reliable taxi company.
• Don’t hail taxis off the street and avoid using unmarked taxi services.

We do not make assessments on the compliance of foreign domestic airlines with international safety standards.

Information about foreign domestic airlines

Every country or territory decides who can enter or exit through its borders. The Government of Canada cannot intervene on your behalf if you do not meet your destination’s entry or exit requirements.

We have obtained the information on this page from the Lebanese authorities. It can, however, change at any time.

Verify this information with the  Foreign Representatives in Canada .

Entry requirements vary depending on the type of passport you use for travel.

Before you travel, check with your transportation company about passport requirements. Its rules on passport validity may be more stringent than the country’s entry rules.

Regular Canadian passport

Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months beyond the date you expect to leave Lebanon.

Passport for official travel

Different entry rules may apply.

Official travel

Passport with “X” gender identifier

While the Government of Canada issues passports with an “X” gender identifier, it cannot guarantee your entry or transit through other countries. You might face entry restrictions in countries that do not recognize the “X” gender identifier. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination.

Other travel documents

Different entry rules may apply when travelling with a temporary passport or an emergency travel document. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination.

Useful links

• Foreign Representatives in Canada
• Canadian passports

Tourist visa: required Student visa: required Work visa: required Business visa: required

As a Canadian citizen, you must obtain a visa to visit Lebanon. Ensure you apply for the proper type of visa for the specific purpose of your trip. Visas are available at Lebanese diplomatic missions abroad or at any port of entry into Lebanon.

Make sure your visa is valid for the duration of your stay. An expired entry visa must be extended by Lebanese authorities or you will not be allowed to leave the country.

Entry stamp

Your passport must show a Lebanese entry stamp in order to exit the country. If you acquire a new passport while in Lebanon, you must present your old passport containing proof of entry to authorities upon departure.

Travel bans

Local authorities may issue travel bans that won’t allow you to enter or exit Lebanon, regardless of your nationality.

You may also be denied re-entry to Lebanon if you left Lebanon as a refugee. To ensure that you are not subject to a travel ban to re-enter Lebanon, contact the Lebanese authorities prior to your departure to Lebanon

Regional travel

Travel to or from Israel is illegal in Lebanon. You may be refused entry into Lebanon if your passport bears an Israeli visa, an Israeli border stamp, or an Egyptian or Jordanian border stamp issued by an office bordering Israel, as such a stamp could indicate you visited Israel prior to visiting Lebanon.

South of the Litani River

Travel permits from Lebanese authorities and/or UNIFIL may be required to enter areas south of the Litani River bordering Israel.

• Children and travel

Children travelling with only one parent may be required to provide an authorization letter from the other parent to exit Lebanon.

Travelling with children

Yellow fever

Learn about potential entry requirements related to yellow fever (vaccines section).

Relevant Travel Health Notices

• Global Measles Notice - 13 March, 2024
• COVID-19 and International Travel - 13 March, 2024

This section contains information on possible health risks and restrictions regularly found or ongoing in the destination. Follow this advice to lower your risk of becoming ill while travelling. Not all risks are listed below.

Consult a health care professional or visit a travel health clinic preferably 6 weeks before you travel to get personalized health advice and recommendations.

Routine vaccines

Be sure that your  routine vaccinations , as per your province or territory , are up-to-date before travelling, regardless of your destination.

Some of these vaccinations include measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis, polio, varicella (chickenpox), influenza and others.

Pre-travel vaccines and medications

You may be at risk for preventable diseases while travelling in this destination. Talk to a travel health professional about which medications or vaccines may be right for you, based on your destination and itinerary. 

Yellow fever is a disease caused by a flavivirus from the bite of an infected mosquito.

Travellers get vaccinated either because it is required to enter a country or because it is recommended for their protection.

• There is no risk of yellow fever in this country.

Country Entry Requirement*

• Proof of vaccination is not required to enter this country.

Recommendation

• Vaccination is not recommended.

* It is important to note that country entry requirements may not reflect your risk of yellow fever at your destination. It is recommended that you contact the nearest diplomatic or consular office of the destination(s) you will be visiting to verify any additional entry requirements.

About Yellow Fever

Yellow Fever Vaccination Centres in Canada

There is a risk of hepatitis A in this destination. It is a disease of the liver. People can get hepatitis A if they ingest contaminated food or water, eat foods prepared by an infectious person, or if they have close physical contact (such as oral-anal sex) with an infectious person, although casual contact among people does not spread the virus.

Practise  safe food and water precautions and wash your hands often. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers to areas where hepatitis A is present.

In this destination, rabies is commonly carried by dogs and some wildlife, including bats. Rabies is a deadly disease that spreads to humans primarily through bites or scratches from an infected animal. While travelling, take precautions , including keeping your distance from animals (including free-roaming dogs), and closely supervising children.

If you are bitten or scratched by a dog or other animal while travelling, immediately wash the wound with soap and clean water and see a health care professional. In this destination, rabies treatment may be limited or may not be available, therefore you may need to return to Canada for treatment.  

Before travel, discuss rabies vaccination with a health care professional. It may be recommended for travellers who are at high risk of exposure (e.g., occupational risk such as veterinarians and wildlife workers, children, adventure travellers and spelunkers, and others in close contact with animals). 

Measles is a highly contagious viral disease. It can spread quickly from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air.

Anyone who is not protected against measles is at risk of being infected with it when travelling internationally.

Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are fully protected against measles.

  Hepatitis B is a risk in every destination. It is a viral liver disease that is easily transmitted from one person to another through exposure to blood and body fluids containing the hepatitis B virus.  Travellers who may be exposed to blood or other bodily fluids (e.g., through sexual contact, medical treatment, sharing needles, tattooing, acupuncture or occupational exposure) are at higher risk of getting hepatitis B.

Hepatitis B vaccination is recommended for all travellers. Prevent hepatitis B infection by practicing safe sex, only using new and sterile drug equipment, and only getting tattoos and piercings in settings that follow public health regulations and standards.

 The best way to protect yourself from seasonal influenza (flu) is to get vaccinated every year. Get the flu shot at least 2 weeks before travelling.  

 The flu occurs worldwide. 

•  In the Northern Hemisphere, the flu season usually runs from November to   April.
•  In the Southern Hemisphere, the flu season usually runs between April and   October.
•  In the tropics, there is flu activity year round. 

The flu vaccine available in one hemisphere may only offer partial protection against the flu in the other hemisphere.

The flu virus spreads from person to person when they cough or sneeze or by touching objects and surfaces that have been contaminated with the virus. Clean your hands often and wear a mask if you have a fever or respiratory symptoms.

Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) is an infectious viral disease. It can spread from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air.

It is recommended that all eligible travellers complete a COVID-19 vaccine series along with any additional recommended doses in Canada before travelling. Evidence shows that vaccines are very effective at preventing severe illness, hospitalization and death from COVID-19. While vaccination provides better protection against serious illness, you may still be at risk of infection from the virus that causes COVID-19. Anyone who has not completed a vaccine series is at increased risk of being infected with the virus that causes COVID-19 and is at greater risk for severe disease when travelling internationally.

Before travelling, verify your destination’s COVID-19 vaccination entry/exit requirements. Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are adequately protected against COVID-19.

Safe food and water precautions

Many illnesses can be caused by eating food or drinking beverages contaminated by bacteria, parasites, toxins, or viruses, or by swimming or bathing in contaminated water.

• Learn more about food and water precautions to take to avoid getting sick by visiting our eat and drink safely abroad page. Remember: Boil it, cook it, peel it, or leave it!
• Avoid getting water into your eyes, mouth or nose when swimming or participating in activities in freshwater (streams, canals, lakes), particularly after flooding or heavy rain. Water may look clean but could still be polluted or contaminated.
• Avoid inhaling or swallowing water while bathing, showering, or swimming in pools or hot tubs. 

Travellers' diarrhea is the most common illness affecting travellers. It is spread from eating or drinking contaminated food or water.

Risk of developing travellers' diarrhea increases when travelling in regions with poor standards of hygiene and sanitation. Practise safe food and water precautions.

The most important treatment for travellers' diarrhea is rehydration (drinking lots of fluids). Carry oral rehydration salts when travelling.

Typhoid   is a bacterial infection spread by contaminated food or water. Risk is higher among children, travellers going to rural areas, travellers visiting friends and relatives or those travelling for a long period of time.

Travellers visiting regions with a risk of typhoid, especially those exposed to places with poor sanitation, should speak to a health care professional about vaccination.  

Cholera is a risk in parts of this country. Most travellers are at very low risk.

To protect against cholera, all travellers should practise safe food and water precautions .

Travellers at higher risk of getting cholera include those:

• visiting, working or living in areas with limited access to safe food, water and proper sanitation
• visiting areas where outbreaks are occurring

Vaccination may be recommended for high-risk travellers, and should be discussed with a health care professional.

Insect bite prevention

Many diseases are spread by the bites of infected insects such as mosquitoes, ticks, fleas or flies. When travelling to areas where infected insects may be present:

• Use insect repellent (bug spray) on exposed skin
• Cover up with light-coloured, loose clothes made of tightly woven materials such as nylon or polyester
• Minimize exposure to insects
• Use mosquito netting when sleeping outdoors or in buildings that are not fully enclosed

To learn more about how you can reduce your risk of infection and disease caused by bites, both at home and abroad, visit our insect bite prevention page.

Find out what types of insects are present where you’re travelling, when they’re most active, and the symptoms of the diseases they spread.

Animal precautions

Some infections, such as rabies and influenza, can be shared between humans and animals. Certain types of activities may increase your chance of contact with animals, such as travelling in rural or forested areas, camping, hiking, and visiting wet markets (places where live animals are slaughtered and sold) or caves.

Travellers are cautioned to avoid contact with animals, including dogs, livestock (pigs, cows), monkeys, snakes, rodents, birds, and bats, and to avoid eating undercooked wild game.

Closely supervise children, as they are more likely to come in contact with animals.

Cases of Middle East respiratory syndrome (MERS) have been reported in this destination. The risk to travellers is low; MERS is primarily spread through contact with camels or camel-based products (raw milk, meat, urine). It can also spread through close contact, such as when caring for an infected person. 

Avoid contact with animals (especially camels), camel-based products, and wash your hands frequently.

Prevention of Middle East respiratory syndrome (MERS)

MERS symptoms range from mild and flu-like to more severe pneumonia-like symptoms, and can result in death.

There is no vaccine or medication that protects against MERS.

Person-to-person infections

Stay home if you’re sick and practise proper cough and sneeze etiquette , which includes coughing or sneezing into a tissue or the bend of your arm, not your hand. Reduce your risk of colds, the flu and other illnesses by:

•   washing your hands often
• avoiding or limiting the amount of time spent in closed spaces, crowded places, or at large-scale events (concerts, sporting events, rallies)
• avoiding close physical contact with people who may be showing symptoms of illness 

Sexually transmitted infections (STIs) , HIV , and mpox are spread through blood and bodily fluids; use condoms, practise safe sex, and limit your number of sexual partners. Check with your local public health authority pre-travel to determine your eligibility for mpox vaccine.  

Medical services and facilities

The medical services and supplies in Lebanon are being affected by the economic crisis and the fuel shortages. As such :

• air conditioning and lighting may be turned off
• non-essential medical treatment may be cancelled
• some sections of hospitals may have reduced capacity or be closed
• hospitals may refuse to admit patients due to the lack of space or supplies

Medical care facilities could be difficult to access and services can be expensive. Private facilities may not have access to basic resources and may be forced to close or reduce their services, increasing the pressures on the public health system.

Payment in advance is almost always required in private health care facilities.

Make sure you get travel insurance that includes coverage for medical evacuation and hospital stays.

Health and safety outside Canada

Keep in Mind...

The decision to travel is the sole responsibility of the traveller. The traveller is also responsible for his or her own personal safety.

Be prepared. Do not expect medical services to be the same as in Canada. Pack a   travel health kit , especially if you will be travelling away from major city centres.

You must abide by local laws.

Learn about what you should do and how we can help if you are arrested or detained abroad .

Photography

It is prohibited to photograph or videotape government buildings or military personnel, equipment and installations.

Avoid photographing individuals without their permission.

Penalties for possession, use or trafficking of illegal drugs are severe. Convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines.

Individuals charged with drug offences can expect to remain in jail and to be denied bail throughout the judicial process. This process often takes years.

Drugs, alcohol and travel

Dress and behaviour

The dress code in Lebanon is more relaxed than most Middle Eastern countries.

To avoid offending local sensitivities:

• dress conservatively
• behave discreetly
• respect religious and social traditions

Ensure your travel insurance is valid for driving in Lebanon.

You must carry an international driving permit.

International Driving Permit

In 2025, the lunar month of Ramadan is expected to begin on or around February 28.

In public, between sunrise and sunset, be discreet when:

Lebanese law criminalizes sexual acts ''contradicting the laws of nature’’ and a ''man disguising as a woman.’’ These provisions may be interpreted broadly to arrest, detain and prosecute 2SLGBTQI+ persons. If you are convicted, you could face imprisonment.

Authorities regularly ban peaceful gatherings and events related to 2SLGBTQI+ issues.

2SLGBTQI+ persons should carefully consider the risks of travelling to Lebanon.

Dual citizenship

Dual citizenship is legally recognized in Lebanon. However, local authorities will treat dual Canadian-Lebanese citizens as Lebanese nationals.

If local authorities consider you a citizen of Lebanon, they may refuse to grant you access to Canadian consular services. This will prevent us from providing you with those services.

Dual citizens

Family law matters in Lebanon, including child custody and divorce-related decisions, are settled according to local religious laws.

Canadian custody documents, including Canadian court orders pertaining to custody, may not be automatically recognized or enforceable in Lebanon. 

Relatives frequently place travel bans on Canadians. If you are involved in custody or other family disputes, consult a lawyer for advice on how religious law in Lebanon may affect your family situation.

International Child Abduction

The Hague Convention on the Civil Aspects of International Child Abduction is an international treaty. It can help parents with the return of children who have been removed to or retained in certain countries in violation of custody rights. It does not apply between Canada and Lebanon.

If your child was wrongfully taken to, or is being held in Lebanon by an abducting parent:

• act as quickly as you can
• consult a lawyer in Canada and in Lebanon to explore all the legal options for the return of your child
• report the situation to the nearest Canadian government office abroad or to the Vulnerable Children's Consular Unit at Global Affairs Canada by calling the Emergency Watch and Response Centre

If your child was removed from a country other than Canada, consult a lawyer to determine if The Hague Convention applies.

Be aware that Canadian consular officials cannot interfere in private legal matters or in another country's judicial affairs.

• International Child Abductions: A guide for affected parents
• Canadian embassies and consulates by destination
• Request emergency assistance

The currency is the Lebanese pound (LBP).

There is also a severe shortage of foreign currency. It is very difficult to access US Dollars locally. Change in foreign currency may not be available. While ATMs are generally stocked with Lebanese Pounds, there may be limits on daily withdrawals imposed by certain banks.

Traveller’s cheques are not accepted and will not be changed by local financial institutions.

Lebanon is located in a seismic zone. There have been several minor earthquakes in recent years.

In the winter months, mountain roads, including the main Beirut–Damascus highway, may be temporarily blocked or become impassable due to heavy snowfall. Flash floods can occur, rendering roads temporarily dangerous or impracticable.

Local services

In case of emergency, dial:

• police: 112
• medical assistance: 140
• firefighters: 175

Consular assistance

For emergency consular assistance, call the Embassy of Canada in Beirut and follow the instructions. At any time, you may also contact the Emergency Watch and Response Centre in Ottawa.

The decision to travel is your choice and you are responsible for your personal safety abroad. We take the safety and security of Canadians abroad very seriously and provide credible and timely information in our Travel Advice to enable you to make well-informed decisions regarding your travel abroad.

The content on this page is provided for information only. While we make every effort to give you correct information, it is provided on an "as is" basis without warranty of any kind, expressed or implied. The Government of Canada does not assume responsibility and will not be liable for any damages in connection to the information provided.

If you need consular assistance while abroad, we will make every effort to help you. However, there may be constraints that will limit the ability of the Government of Canada to provide services.

Learn more about consular services .

Risk Levels

  take normal security precautions.

Take similar precautions to those you would take in Canada.

  Exercise a high degree of caution

There are certain safety and security concerns or the situation could change quickly. Be very cautious at all times, monitor local media and follow the instructions of local authorities.

IMPORTANT: The two levels below are official Government of Canada Travel Advisories and are issued when the safety and security of Canadians travelling or living in the country or region may be at risk.

  Avoid non-essential travel

Your safety and security could be at risk. You should think about your need to travel to this country, territory or region based on family or business requirements, knowledge of or familiarity with the region, and other factors. If you are already there, think about whether you really need to be there. If you do not need to be there, you should think about leaving.

  Avoid all travel

You should not travel to this country, territory or region. Your personal safety and security are at great risk. If you are already there, you should think about leaving if it is safe to do so.

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Middle East crisis — explained

The conflict between Israel and Palestinians — and other groups in the Middle East — goes back decades. These stories provide context for current developments and the history that led up to them.

War fears and flight cancellations in Lebanon send travelers and residents scrambling

Jawad Rizkallah

People await their flights at the Beirut International Airport departure hall on Monday. Urgent calls grew for foreign nationals to leave Lebanon, which would be on the front line of a regional war, as Iran and its allies readied their response to high-profile killings blamed on Israel. ‎/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

BEIRUT — At Lebanon’s Rafic Hariri International Airport, the window has been closing for Lebanese and foreigners to fly out while they can before an expected Iranian attack on Israel which will likely expand fighting between Israel and Hezbollah in south Lebanon.

As Israeli fighter jets broke the sound barrier flying over Lebanon, as they do regularly in what is believed by most Lebanese to be an intimidation tactic, hundreds of travelers scrambled Monday to find flights after cancellations and missed connections.

Iran is expected to launch major retaliatory strikes against Israel after the killing of the top Hamas political leader in Tehran last week. Iran-backed Hezbollah has also vowed retaliation after an Israeli airstrike killed the Lebanese group’s second in command in Beirut’s southern suburbs.

The killing of a top Hamas leader brings new uncertainties about cease-fire talks

Israel says it killed a Hezbollah commander in Beirut it blames for a deadly strike

In response, amid rising insurance premiums, Air France, Lufthansa and other European airlines last week announced they were stopping flights to Beirut, leaving Lebanon’s national carrier, Middle East Airlines, to try to find more planes.

“Should commercial air not be available, individuals already in Lebanon should be prepared to shelter in place for long periods of time,” Rena Bitter, the U.S. assistant secretary of state for consular affairs, said in a video issued by the U.S. Embassy.

The United Kingdom was more blunt, with Foreign Secretary David Lammy telling citizens in Lebanon on Saturday: “My message to British nationals there is clear — leave now.”

In 2006, when Israel invaded Lebanon and imposed an air and sea blockade, it bombed the Beirut airport . Fears rose after a report by a British newspaper that Hezbollah was stockpiling missiles at the airport, that it could be targeted again. The Lebanese government denied it, taking diplomats and journalists on a tour of the facilities. Western diplomats said there appeared to be no basis in believing there were missiles there.

Middle East

From the archives: israel bombs beirut airport, blockades lebanon.

In Lebanon, summer is the season of weddings and expatriates coming home for family reunions. Because of successive wars and financial crises, Lebanon has more citizens living abroad than in Lebanon.

Workers unload medical supplies delivered by the World Health Organization as a prevention of any potential health crisis that might result from a major conflict in Lebanon, at Beirut International Airport Monday. ‎/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

India Smith, 29, a U.S. citizen waits with her Lebanese American fiancé Rami Bou Saab in a long line stretching from the Turkish Airways check-in counter at the airport named after Lebanon’s assassinated former prime minister.

“We wanted to leave yesterday and it got moved to today and now it’s delayed so we are missing our connecting flight from Istanbul to Chicago,” Smith said.

In Lebanon to attend a wedding, the two, both psychotherapists, said they were “deeply anxious” at the thought of not being able to get seats on the flight, despite having arrived four hours early. “We really want to get home,” Bou Saab said.

The country somehow manages to function throughout almost constant crisis and the Lebanese and long-term residents have become adept at weathering major inconveniences, such as electricity and water cuts, and the threat of danger.

U.N. peacekeepers take cover as Lebanon's Hezbollah and Israel trade attacks

Sitting on the floor near an escalator in the packed departures lounge were Elie and Dareen Nawwar and their two children. Their black suitcases were piled high on a cart as they kept the children busy with chess, snacks and a coloring book.

The Lebanese family had booked a vacation to a Turkish resort three months ago. Elie Nawwar said they looked at the departure board on arriving and watched the flight time pushed back by almost three hours in front of their eyes.

She said if their flight did not take off, they probably would give up and go home.

For Israelis near the Lebanon border, war with Hezbollah feels inevitable

“We don’t know if they will target the airport,” she said, adding she wasn’t worried because threats had become normal.

“We were born under missiles and under war, it’s normal for us,” her husband laughed.

Elissa Khazzaka and her mother Odelle Khazzaka, Lebanese French, were heading to the Turkish resort town of Bodrum “for relaxation.”

They said they feel safe in Beirut and don’t know any French people who have left because they feel in danger.

Some have not had the choice — their embassies or companies forcing them to evacuate. The U.K. Embassy on the weekend announced it was evacuating diplomatic families. The U.S., which has had heightened security in Lebanon since the bombing of Marine barracks here four decades ago, does not consider the Beirut embassy a family post.

Another passenger on Sunday, Christian missionary Winnie Oh, from South Korea, was leaving with his wife and 2-year-old son for Egypt to wait things out after warnings that war could be imminent.

“Actually our embassy is warning us to leave this country. So we are worried,” he said.

A passenger pushes a loaded trolley outside the departures' terminal at Rafic Hariri International Airport in Beirut on July 29. Anwar Amro/AFP via Getty Images hide caption

With little prospect of U.S. government evacuations, rescue groups have begun arriving in Lebanon.

Bryan Stern, an Army veteran and Navy reserve officer who is the founder of the Grey Bull Rescue Foundation , a U.S. nonprofit organization, said his group was preparing to evacuate Americans by sea or air if it became necessary.

He said his previous organization, Project Dynamo, evacuated 270 Americans from Israel after the Hamas-led attack last October, chartering a plane to fly them home when commercial flights were canceled. It also rescued a retired U.S. paratrooper from a Russian-controlled neighborhood in Ukraine .

The Picture Show

Meet the rescue team extracting people trapped in kyiv suburbs under siege.

“Usually what happens is the airspace closes and everything goes bananas right around then. We’ve seen this time and time again,” Stern said.

He said his group of U.S. military veterans works around airspace closures and other restrictions that government evacuation operations can’t, and that they have evacuated 7,000 U.S. citizens around the world, including by air from Afghanistan , Sudan and Haiti.

“We landed the first airplanes under Taliban rule and took Americans that got left behind after the military left,” he said. “And that's kind of our space. Our space is where the U.S. government isn't.”

• Israel-Hamas war
• Israel and Hezbollah
• travel advisory

Foreign citizens urged to leave Lebanon ‘as soon as possible’ as regional tensions spike

S everal countries including the United States, the United Kingdom and France have urged their citizens to leave Lebanon as heightened tensions in the region spark fears of a widening Middle East conflict.

The warnings come after the US said it was sending additional warships to the region and as Washington’s embassy in Lebanon called on citizens to book “any ticket available to them.” Britain’s Foreign Secretary David Lammy said his message for British citizens was, “leave now.”

The region is on high alert after Iran vowed revenge on Israel, which it blames for the assassination of Hamas’ political leader Ismail Haniyeh in the capital Tehran earlier this week. Haniyeh’s death came just hours after an Israeli strike on the Lebanese capital Beirut killed Hezbollah’s most senior military commander, Fu’ad Shukr.

In the latest flurry of diplomatic activity, Iran’s state news agency (IRNA) reported that the Foreign Minister of Jordan was making a rare visit to the Iranian capital Tehran on Sunday, to “meet and exchange views with Iranian officials regarding bilateral, regional and international issues.”

The developments have raised concerns that Israel’s war in Gaza, which is now well into its ninth month, could spill over into a full-blown Middle Eastern conflict.

It is thought that Lebanon-based Hezbollah could play a prominent part in any such retaliation. The militant group has been involved in daily exchanges of fire with Israel; overnight on Saturday Hezbollah fired 30 projectiles, most of which were intercepted by Israel.

On Monday, Hezbollah claimed to have launched a drone attack that hit a military target in northern Israel, calling it retaliation for the recent assassinations and a show of support for Gaza.

Israel launched multiple interceptors at “suspicious aerial targets” that crossed from Lebanon into Upper Galilee, according to the Israel Defense Forces (IDF).

Two IDF personnel were injured after one target was downed and firefighters were extinguishing a blaze in the area.

In a separate statement, the IDF claimed to have struck “multiple” Hezbollah targets in Lebanon overnight, including a weapons storage facility. It also said it had identified and shot down a “suspicious aerial target” that crossed from Lebanon Monday morning, and had observed a “hostile explosive UAV” that crossed from Lebanon and fell in the area of Malkia. No damage or injuries were reported from the incidents.

Many countries already had travel warnings in place but have issued fresh advice in the wake of the latest developments.

France told its citizens to make arrangements to leave Lebanon “as soon as possible” in a  statement  from the Ministry for Europe and Foreign affairs on Sunday.

Jordan issued a similar warning to its citizens. The country was involved in shooting down Iranian drones when Iran launched unprecedented retaliatory strikes in April for a suspected Israeli attack on a diplomatic complex.

Turkey meanwhile updated its travel advisory for Lebanon, urging those who do not need to stay in the country to leave while commercial flights remain active.

“Our citizens should avoid traveling to Lebanon unless it is essential; Our citizens in Lebanon are advised to be cautious, not to go to Nabatiyeh, South Lebanon, Bekaa and Baalbek-Hermel provinces unless necessary, and those who do not need to stay in Lebanon are advised to leave Lebanon, if possible, while commercial flights are still continuing,” Turkish Foreign Ministry spokesperson Öncü Keçeli posted to X on Sunday.

Airlines including Air France, Lufthansa and Kuwaiti Airlines have already canceled flights to and from Lebanon while others diverted planes away from the country.

Preparing for ‘every possibility’

In a further sign of the region bracing for an Iranian retaliation, the US on Saturday sent a carrier strike group, a fighter squadron and additional warships to the Middle East.

It marked perhaps the largest movement of US forces to the region since the early days of the Gaza war, when the Pentagon sent two carrier strike groups toward the Middle East in a very public warning to regional militant groups not to expand the fighting.

White House deputy national security adviser Jon Finer said Sunday that the US and Israel are preparing for “every possibility” after the Pentagon sent the additional military assets.

“We and our ally Israel are preparing for every possibility. And that’s the vein in which the announcements made by the Pentagon took place. All of those posture adjustments are to prepare for a potential response against Israel from Iran or any other adversary,” Finer told CNN’s Dana Bash on “State of the Union.”

And on Sunday, US State Secretary Antony Blinken spoke with the foreign ministers from G7 nations to discuss the “urgent need for de-escalation in the Middle East,” according to a State Department spokesperson.

The spokesperson said Blinken and the foreign ministers discussed ongoing efforts to achieve a ceasefire that would secure hostage releases and the entry of humanitarian aid to Gaza. They also reiterated their commitment to Israel’s security and urged “maximum restraint from all parties” to keep the conflict from escalating.

Israelis have been stocking up on supplies, while a file from the Jerusalem municipality advised residents to “clean and prepare their bomb shelters,” warning they must be able to reach shelters in 90 seconds.

This story has been updated with additional information.

For more CNN news and newsletters create an account at CNN.com

State Department advises against Lebanon travel but isn't evacuating | Fact check

Editor's note: The State Department on July 31 raised the Lebanon travel advisory to Level 4, meaning do not travel, due to rising tensions in the area. The U.S. Embassy "strongly encourages" U.S. citizens in southern Lebanon, near the Syrian border or in refugee settlements to leave. This does not affect the rating for this claim since at the time it was made there were no evacuation orders for the country.

The claim: US ordered total evacuation of US citizens in Lebanon

A July 28 Facebook post ( direct link , archive link ) shows the State Department seal alongside a supposed security alert.

“BREAKING: The United States has ordered the total evacuation of all US citizens from Lebanon,” reads the post.

Other versions of the claim spread widely on Facebook and X, formerly Twitter .

More from the Fact-Check Team: How we pick and research claims | Email newsletter | Facebook page

Our rating: False

The State Department said there was no evacuation order in place for Americans in Lebanon as of July 29. The agency issued a Level 3 travel advisory for the country, meaning Americans are urged to reconsider travel to the area.

Commercial flights change amid rising tension in region

The claim was posted as Lebanon braced for a potential retaliatory attack after a rocket strike killed a dozen children and teenagers in the Israel-controlled Golan Heights on July 27, as USA TODAY reported . American and Israeli intelligence agencies linked the attack to Hezbollah, though the militant group denied involvement. 

But there is no mention of an evacuation order on websites for the U.S. embassy in Lebanon or the State Department , the latter of which confirmed in a July 29 news briefing that there is no such order.

"We don't have any plans for or an announcement as it relates to an evacuation or efforts for private U.S. citizens from Lebanon," department spokesperson Vedant Patel said.

Fact check : Video shows 2021 Lebanese protest at Israeli border wall

Patel said Lebanon as a whole remains under a Level 3 travel advisory . Guidance on the department's website urges Americans to reconsider travel to the country because of “crime, terrorism, civil unrest, kidnapping, unexploded landmines and the risk of armed conflict.” 

The website also says to not travel to certain areas including southern Lebanon and its border with Syria, both of which are under a Level 4 travel advisory , meaning do not travel.

The U.S. embassy in Beirut said some airlines were adjusting their flight schedules due to “heightened tension in the region” in a July 28 security alert .

In the news briefing the following day, Patel said Americans in Lebanon should enroll in the department's Smart Traveler Enrollment Program and consider their remaining commercial flight options for leaving the country.

NBC reported in June that the Pentagon was moving military assets closer to Israel and Lebanon to be able to quickly evacuate Americans if necessary.

USA TODAY previously debunked a claim the Department of Defense evacuated the U.S. embassy in Beirut and told Americans in October 2023 to leave Lebanon immediately. 

USA TODAY reached out to users who shared the post for comment but did not immediately receive a response.

Our fact-check sources:

• Department of State, accessed July 30, Press Releases
• Department of State, July 29, Department Press Briefing – July 29, 2024
• U.S. Embassy in Lebanon, accessed July 29, Alerts
• U.S. Embassy in Lebanon, July 28, Security Alert: U.S. Embassy Beirut, July 28, 2024
• Department of State, Jan. 29, Lebanon Travel Advisory

Thank you for supporting our journalism. You can subscribe to our print edition, ad-free app or e-newspaper here .

USA TODAY is a verified signatory of the International Fact-Checking Network, which requires a demonstrated commitment to nonpartisanship, fairness and transparency. Our fact-check work is supported in part by a grant from Meta .

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15 Essentials I Always Pack in Case of Travel Emergencies — Starting at $9

From power banks to comfy joggers, these items will make it easy to handle any travel setback.

Travel + Leisure / Francesca Fasciglione

Travel setbacks are never fun, but when the cyber outage that rocked airlines worldwide occurred in July, many people started thinking about how to better prepare for unexpected travel disruptions. I’m no stranger to unexpected travel roadblocks, whether running through airports like Kevin McAllister’s family in “Home Alone” to catch a flight, being delayed or rerouted, arriving at hotels when my room isn’t ready, and more. 

Many components of travel are out of our control, from weather delays to technical issues, which is why being prepared on how to navigate anything that might pop up is key. Having a packing list that accounts for all of the necessities you might need makes the hassle of it all a bit less painful. From products to make a delay more comfortable to necessary tech to keep your devices charged no matter where you are, I rounded up the travel essentials I pack in order to be prepared for any travel hiccup.

Meacolia Travel Pill Organizer

Stress and different time zones can affect immunity, so I always make sure to have this pill holder on hand, packed with medication for emergencies. The double lock ensures no pill spillage into my purse, while eight compartments accommodate my must-have medicines and supplements, like vitamin C and D pills, to keep me healthy and energized to face any travel setback. The compact size is easy to transport and comes in a number of fun colors like light blue and candy green.

Vuori Performance Jogger 

I will sing the praises of these ultra soft Vuori joggers forever. Being uncomfortable during travel disruptions feels even worse when you aren’t dressed comfortably. I make sure to have these on when I’m traveling, should any setback arise. The comfortable elastane and polyester material is lightweight and soft and feels like your favorite pair of pajamas. Each pair has pockets, so you can keep essentials nearby, and there are a number of colors to choose from to easily find your favorite pair. 

Ostrich Pillow 

Sitting in airports as you wait on any travel updates can be taxing on the body. Sometimes, due to hotel availability, you may even find that the airport becomes your room for the night. That's why this memory foam travel pillow is always securely fastened to my luggage. The ergonomic design provides plenty of comfort and the Velco closure is easy to adjust to get the perfect fit. I can’t even recount the number of times I’ve dealt with neck pain due to travel, so this pillow is a game changer. I also love that the cover can be removed and washed between trips.

Calpak Luka Passport Wallet

If you’re dealing with a travel emergency, you’ll want to have your crucial documents easily accessible. I like this Calpak passport wallet in particular because of its lightweight design that makes it easy to travel with. It’s big enough to hold everything in one place, including my passport, ID, credit cards, and cash, so I never have to search through my bag to check if I’m missing anything. 

State Travel Pouch Set

There are a number of items that I always rely on while traveling and being able to easily access them in the face of any emergency is important. The State travel pouch set is a multi-size trio of bags that keeps all of my favorite toiletry items and medicine in one place. There's also a convenient hook for when you’re traveling and want to hang it in the bathroom.

Studio Oh! Under Reusable Under Eye Patches

Another part of my skin that typically takes a major hit during unexpectedly long travel days is the area under my eyes. To combat puffiness, I pack these reusable under eye patches that boost hydration via the cooling effects of their silicone material. You can also apply your favorite serum or cream under to enhance the effectiveness.

Calpak Luka Duffel

If you ever find yourself stranded, you’ll want to have a duffel bag on hand to easily access some of your favorite clothing items and toiletries. This Calpak duffel is the squishy travel companion that I never leave home without. The nine spacious pockets help keep me organized so I never have to ask myself where I put my passport or rifle through my bag for my lip balm. It also has a luggage trolley sleeve so you can keep it on top of your suitcase, and it’s lightweight so it won’t weigh you down if you’re stuck waiting a while for your next flight. Another added bonus? There’s an exterior shoe compartment — stash a pair of comfy slides or slippers to change into while you wait.

Hoka Bondi 8 Shoes 

The wear and tear of travel on your feet cannot be understated. If you find yourself racing to a new gate due to a travel disruption, or simply roaming the halls of an airport because of a delay, these Hoka Bondi shoes will give you the cushion support to keep your feet comfortable. The rear crash pad of the shoes allows for a balanced stride from heel to toe, and the mesh construction makes them very breathable, so you won’t be stuck with sweaty feet at the end of the day. 

Courant Dual Charger

There is nothing more anxiety-inducing than being stranded somewhere and not having any battery life on your phone or other electronics. That’s why this dual-device charging pad from Courant is a must-have whenever I travel. I like to use it in the airport to simultaneously charge my phone and earbuds. The sleek design is made even better by texture options that include Italian leather and Belgian linen .

Nurture Valley XL Ultra Thick Body Wipes for Adults

Sometimes, there’s just no way around having no access to a shower once a travel obstacle arises. To quickly freshen up no matter where you are, these ultra thick body wipes are a great item to keep in tow on any trip. Gentle natural ingredients like aloe vera and vitamin E are great for my sensitive skin, and I’m also a big fan of their thickness. You won’t have to worry about any sticky residue with these wipes either.

Sony Noise-cancelling Wireless Headphones

I am often overstimulated by the amount of noise at airports, and having a lengthy delay definitely exacerbates it. These noise-canceling wireless Sony headphones are a great way to block out all of the chaos surrounding me. They also make for an excellent travel companion to listen to my favorite music or watch any shows as I wait during travel setbacks. This particular model offers one of Sony‘s lightest headbands for added comfort, and it has a battery life up to 34 hours so it’ll last you even a long delay or layover.

Neutrogena Makeup Wipes

When it’s time to wipe the grime and stress of travel off of my face, I always use these handy Neutrogena makeup remover wipes. Even the thickest mascaras don’t stand a chance against these, and the gentleness of them means I can use them multiple times while traveling without feeling like I’m drying out my skin. 

Comrad Compression Socks

Sometimes travel emergencies involve longer flight days to get to where you need to be. These Comrad compression socks are always in my bag because they provide soft support that promotes circulation, perfect for days where I’m on my feet or sitting in a plane longer than expected. In addition to preventing swelling, the moisture-wicking nylon fabric offers the breathability needed to keep your feet from overheating.

Dr. Barbara Sturm Face Cream Rich

Dry skin and hours of wait time go hand-in-hand, particularly if you’ve already been in the moisture-zapping air for a previous flight. I never leave home without Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Face Cream Rich, as it helps to keep my skin from feeling that scaly dryness that often comes along with travel. Antioxidants refresh my skin, and ingredients like vitamin E and avocado oil deliver moisture. I’m also a huge fan of their hyaluronic acid — which comes in a formula for darker skin tones like mine.

Away Sleep Mask

If your travel emergency leaves you in the middle of an airport without a hotel option or you simply need a nap before you gear up for more travel, this Away sleep mask fits the bill. The molded interior shape leaves ample room around the eyes, and there's even a hidden pocket for earplug storage. The temperature-regulating fabric is also designed to keep you cool or warm, depending on whether you’re cold or hot. 

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Breaking news, should you always bring a passport when traveling passengers on this nightmare domestic flight believe so.

Most people don’t bring their passports with them when flying domestically, but one traveler discovered that might be a mistake.

In a video posted by @ItalianKate on TikTok, she filmed another passenger ( @griptape_ on TikTok ) as he explained how their flight from Puerto Rico to Miami ended up with them stranded in an airplane terminal.

He explained in the video with 1.5 million likes and 8.2 million views that they were on American Airlines flight 2421 and were circling around for two hours before the pilot announced they needed to land in the Bahamas, where the passengers would disembark.

“Puerto Rico to the US is a domestic flight,” the person explained. “This is a different country.”

He added, “We landed at 8:30, it is now 5:40 in the morning.”

Because they were on a domestic flight, when the pilot asked who had their passports, no one had them — meaning they couldn’t leave the terminal, let alone the airport, because they legally could not go through customs.

The speaker explained that most people on the flight only spoke Spanish, so he had to translate the information from the gate agents over the speaker.

Elderly people and dogs were among those stuck at the terminal, and during the seven hours they were there, they only had Biscoff Cookies as their source of food.

@italiankate @American Airlines #americanairlines #flight #flightdelay #customerservice ♬ original sound – italiankate

He explained that they were only able to speak to the two gate agents who were sharing as much as they could, but American Airlines wouldn’t give any information.

“Now people are having medical emergencies and things like that, we have medication on the plane… They told a gentleman here that he can’t go in and get it,” the man said.

“We have one bathroom for 100 people, dogs, children,” he continued. “Hopefully, we get a refund at the end of this.”

The average time for a flight between San Juan, Puerto Rico and Miami, Florida is about 2.5 hours, and by the time the TikTok was filmed, about nine hours had passed since they departed from Puerto Rico.

According to American Airlines, the passengers were put in this rare situation due to the weather.

“On August 3, American Airlines flight 2421 with service from Puerto Rico (SJU) to Miami (MIA) was impacted by severe weather and diverted to Nassau (NAS),” an American Airlines representative told Thrillist .

“The flight continued on to MIA once the weather conditions allowed us to safely do so. Operating safely is always our priority — especially in dynamic weather events — and we apologize to our customers for the inconvenience experienced as a result of the weather.”

However, the airline did not say whether or not the passengers on the flight were compensated for their troubles and time in the Bahamas.

Moral of the story: It can never hurt to bring your passport even on domestic flights, especially when flying to areas known for storms or hurricanes.

“One of the benefits of traveling between the US and Puerto Rico is the fact that you can travel passport-less,” Going’s travel expert Katy Nastro told the outlet.

“There’s no saying you can’t use your passport as a form of ID, so if it gives you a bit more peace (of travel) mind, then go for it.”

August 9, 2024 PBS News Hour full episode

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