jeep xj wandering steering

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How to Eliminate Jeep Wandering

Wandering can be caused by a single problematic source in your Jeep's steering, suspension, tires, or brakes. Some vehicles can wander so bad that it actually causes a pulling sensation to the left or right when you have your hands on the steering wheel. Check the tire pressure on your Jeep and make sure all four tires are properly inflated. If the wandering persists, more investigation is needed.

Take the Jeep out for a test drive . Test driving the Jeep can give you some clue as to the source of the wandering problem. Accelerate to approximately 35 mph and let go of the wheel. If the vehicle makes a sudden veer in either direction, then you probably have an alignment problem. Just to be sure, accelerate to the same speed again and gently press the brakes. If the vehicle veers more rapidly or harder, then your front brakes are not stopping the vehicle evenly. Return to the Jeep to your inspection area or workspace.

Raise the front of the Jeep, using a jack. Place jack stands just inside of either front lower control arm, underneath the front frame rails. Allow the suspension to hang freely for this portion of the inspection process.

Lay beneath the front end of the Jeep just inside the front wheel area, on either side of the vehicle. Place your hand on the tie rod, which connects the steering knuckles to the steering rack or steering arm.

Ask an assistant to wiggle the wheel and tire on the same side of the vehicle as you are positioned. Ask him to wiggle the wheel from side to side, placing his hands on the front and rear treads of the tires. If you feel a knocking in the tie rod, move your hand toward the wheel end of the tie rod, whereas if it gets weaker, then your inner tie rod is the culprit.

Ask your assistant to wiggle the tire in the same position that your are seated from top to bottom. Visually inspect for any movement in the lower and upper ball joints of the Jeep. Any play or knocking feeling from top to bottom indicates a bad ball joint, which will need to be replaced. Bad ball joints will cause a vehicle to become out of alignment and cause a wandering in the steering. Ball joints are the main link between the steering and suspension. Use a flashlight to see if necessary.

Remove the front wheel from the Jeep and visually inspect the front brake assembly. The front pads should wear evenly, or close to it. If you notice that one pad -- usually the rear side -- is wearing faster than the other, then your caliper may be sticking. In the event that your caliper is sticking, you can perform a self caliper slide lubrication service which should clear up the problem. If the caliper slides are too damaged, then chances are your caliper will need to be replaced as well.

Repeat Steps 3 through 7 to repeat this entire inspection on the other front wheel of the vehicle. Do not assume just because the vehicle is wandering to the right, that the source of the problem is on the right. A bad tie rod that has maladjusted toe inward, can push the vehicle to the opposite side of the road.

Visually inspect your front and rear stabilizer or sway bars. A bent stabilizer bar can cause a vehicle to lean or wander to one side or another. In the event that you find a bent or damaged sway bar or links, replacement of the faulty parts will be necessary.

Have the Jeep aligned professionally. Having the vehicle aligned after replacement of the part or parts that are causing the wandering, is essential to keeping the entire vehicle rolling straight.

Things You'll Need

• 2-ton or greater capacity floor jack
• 2 jack stands

Tim Petruccio is a professional writer and automotive mechanic. His writing combines more than 20 years of mechanical experience in automotive service, service management, automotive education and business ownership. He assisted in the automotive beta, which launched March 2011.

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Wandering XJ

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I have a 95 XJ with a 4.5 RE lift. I have been noticing more and more wandering while driveing. I just upgraded from 33X9.5's to 33X12.5's. It seem to have gotten worse with the upgrade.. Does anyone know of a good alignment shop, that knows lifted Jeeps?  

The ncrease in tire width wil cause the Jeep to "read" the road more. If you encounter a rut in the road, the truck will be more inclined to follow it. I suggest you put the stock tires and rims back on when you take it in to be aligned. Borrow some if you don't have them. Other things to check are your track bar and steering shaft. Track bars are significant contributors to the condition you describe. The bolt holding the upper end to the frame loosens, sometimes creating a larger hole in an extreme case. In many cases, you can cure the problem just by tightening up the upper bolt, but it will most likely work itself loose again eventully.You also said it was lifted. if you have an adjustible track bar, make sure its tight at th adjustment point. Also inspect your steering shaft joints for slack.  

Belle Tire between John R and Stephenson directly across from Oakland Mall does a good job on lifted Jeeps. The alignment guy's good, and has done both of our Jeeps, and Rocky's as well. I know a guy that works there, so I trust them.  

Thanks guys! That Belle Tire is real close to my work!  

mines been wandering a lot lately, checked the ususal suspects, then noticed i have about 1" of steering wheel play each way. not sure if its the box or the shaft. i'd check your's too  

Just like PP said, it's more than likely your tires. Especially since you noticed it wandering more after you put three inch wider tires on.  

xj4life said: mines been wandering a lot lately, checked the ususal suspects, then noticed i have about 1" of steering wheel play each way. not sure if its the box or the shaft. i'd check your's too Click to expand...

Tonka said: older xj's and comanche's do not have a safety feature on the vibration isolator of the steering shaft!. The rubber deteriorates enough, you loose your steering Click to expand...

Do you have the RE drop brackets? If not, spend the money. You won't regret it. If you have the drop brackets, adjust the toe yourself. Every time I've paid for an alignment the vehicle came back screwed up, and I've had to fix it myself, in the driveway. It's very simple. First park the vehicle on a relatively flat surface. Jack up the front end and place jack stands under the front axle so the tires are just slightly off the ground. Have someone sit in the vehicle and hold the steering wheel straight. Then adjust the tierods so the front tires are toed in ever so slightly. You can tell by sighting down the edge of the tire, and seeing how straight it is in relation the the rear tire. It takes a few tries to get it right, but the results will surprise you.  

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Find a manual, 10 common causes of loose steering in a 2020 jeep wrangler, you are here.

It's a sunny day, and you're cruising down the highway in your 2020 Jeep Wrangler when suddenly you notice something's off — the steering is loose . It's a concern many drivers have faced. Steering should feel tight and responsive, but when it becomes slack, it can feel alarming. Understanding the common causes of this issue is essential for motorcycle and automotive repair enthusiasts.

Worn Out Tie Rod Ends

The tie rod ends are integral parts of your steering mechanism. They connect the steering rack to the wheels. Over time, especially with rough driving conditions, these can wear out. Worn-out tie rod ends can be a major reason why your steering wheel feels loose.

Damaged Steering Gear Box

The steering gear box is the heart of your steering system. If it's damaged or not functioning properly, it can make the steering feel loose. Common signs of a failing steering gear box include erratic steering or a noticeable delay in the wheel's response.

Worn Ball Joints

Ball joints play a vital role in the suspension system of your Wrangler, and they also have an impact on steering. As they wear out, you might experience a vague feeling when turning, almost as if the vehicle is wandering.

Power Steering Issues

The power steering pump, hoses, or fluid can be culprits as well. If there's a leak in the system or the pump is failing, the steering can feel much less responsive. Always check the power steering fluid levels and ensure there's no leakage.

Damaged Belts

A less common but still potential issue is a damaged or worn-out belt in the steering system. If the belt that powers your steering pump is damaged, it can slip, leading to inconsistent steering power and a feeling of looseness.

Misaligned Wheels

Wheel alignment plays a crucial role in how your vehicle responds to steering inputs. If your wheels are misaligned, the steering might feel off. While this might not always give a "loose" sensation, it's an issue worth checking if you're facing steering problems.

Worn Out Steering Column

The steering column connects your steering wheel to the rest of the steering system. Over time and with extensive use, this can wear out or get damaged, leading to a slack feeling when turning the wheel.

Improper Tire Pressure

It might sound simple, but tire pressure affects a lot more than just your fuel efficiency. If the tires are under-inflated, especially the front ones, it can lead to a sluggish response when steering.

Steering Stabilizer Issues

The 2020 Jeep Wrangler, like many off-road vehicles, is equipped with a steering stabilizer. Its primary function is to prevent wobbling, especially during high-speed driving. If this component fails or gets damaged, it could lead to a loose steering sensation.

Worn Steering Rack Bushings

The bushings on the steering rack can wear out over time, especially if you frequently drive in rough conditions. When these bushings become worn or damaged, the result can be a loose and unresponsive steering.

Steering issues can range from being a minor inconvenience to a severe safety concern. So, if you find yourself wondering, "why is my steering wheel loose?", it's essential to address the issue promptly. Regularly inspect the components mentioned above, and always prioritize your safety on the road.

If you're an enthusiast interested in motorcycle and automotive repair , knowing these potential causes can be valuable. Loose steering in your 2020 Jeep Wrangler can be a hassle, but with the right knowledge and attention to detail, it's an issue that's definitely fixable.

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Greatest steering upgrade to eliminate wander

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Curious what the JKCREW has experienced in their Jk builds as it applies to steering crispness, bump steer removal, wandering, and even the wheel returning to its center in a turnout. If possible, 35 tires and up please. Not hating on the 33s guys, I need a bigger lab rat in the hunt. I love to hear it all. Even tire pressure. Yes I know it?s not a Porsche. Thanks!  

Wandering is directly related to caster. You want to get your caster somewhere in the 5.2 - 5.5* mark and the wandering should go away on a 12.50 or 13.50 tire. Raising the track bar and drag link at the axle will help the feel of the steering tremendously. It will make it feel far less touchy, and more firm. If you are looking for brands of steering components the list is long. Synergy MFG Steer Smarts YETI XD Rock Krawler Teraflex Currie Fusion 4x4 RPM Fab and the list goes on.  

RiverCityOffroad said: Wandering is directly related to caster. You want to get your caster somewhere in the 5.2 - 5.5* mark and the wandering should go away on a 12.50 or 13.50 tire. Raising the track bar and drag link at the axle will help the feel of the steering tremendously. It will make it feel far less touchy, and more firm. Click to expand...

Lift plays a roll and the angle of the track bars. The flatter you get the links the straighter it will track when driving down the road.  

Bump steer is entirely a factor of the placement of your track bar ends vs. drag link ends. Most people either keep both stock, or raise 3" on the track bar and flip the drag link (although this isn't necessarily "ideal" at all lift heights, but it's pretty close and what parts are available for). Return to center is pretty much entirely castor, given a specific power steering configuration. Stock vs. hydro assist vs. full hydro will all have very different return to center characteristics, but that's a separate design decision. Crispness is going to be a factor of what condition your gear box, ball joints, and link ends are in (any slop will make it not feel crisp) and toe-in. Wandering is a factor of all of the above, as well as tire pressure. So basically, maximize your castor without killing your drive shaft (pretty limited with a stock axle housing, but get what you can get), set an appropriate toe-in, figure out what tire pressure feels good, and make sure your drag link/track bar are either flipped/3"-raised, or factory/factory. This will get you the "best" steering you can get without going into custom design work, new axle housing, etc. Also, IMO go hydro assist for the best steering feel, but that's very much an opinion and some would disagree.  

Holy smokes. Thanks. Dirt.. you too. You guys have given me a lot to consider on my next lift. Hopefully I can tie all of it together on one purchase !  

Well thanks River City OffRoad out of Austin, Texas. I appreciate the help. Currently on a cheap 2 inch spacer lift. Will be in the market for a quality 2.5 very soon. This gives me something to work on with the next lift. Control Arms and drag link appear to be a must. Thanks! Drag link  

I sure noticed more wonder when i inflated to 35 from 32 on my 2 door. Im going back to 32 because the ride was night and day.  

Great suggestions.  

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Loose steering in xj

• Thread starter XjShake
• Start date Dec 5, 2010

• Dec 5, 2010

I have a 89 xj with severely loose steering... My question is... Is it due to no disconnects? I don't have power steering is that the problem? It feels like its in my steering wheel so I'm at a lose  

MudderChuck

A lot of places the steering can be loose. Often it is a little here and a little there that adds up. If your steering wheel isn't pointing straight up, when the tires are straight ahead, this can be a loose trac bar joint. Worn ball joints and tie rod ends can also add to the problem. Even the universal joint in the steering column above the steering box and the steering box itself. One good way to hunt down the trouble spots is to have someone turn the steering wheel left and right 2-3 inches and keep at it for awhile. While you crawl around underneath with a flashlight and check every joint. I replaced the trac bar, drag link, ball joints and steering box on my 88. The biggest difference was the trac bar and the new steering box. I'm a decent mechanic, but I let the professionals rebuild my steering box for me. Lares corp. makes a pretty good product, I've ordered on line from them in the past.  

• Dec 6, 2010

Do you guys know of anywhere online that sales a complete steering kit? I found a over the knuckle conversion on rustys but its a lil pricey... I would rather buy a winch or bumper... Would it be more cost effect to order the parts seperate or as a kit... I do know one thing though... My steering SUX yes it deserves to be all capital  

I am not exactly sure what your problem is, but I was having leaking issues in my '89, the pump didn't sound good and the box felt like it was getting old. Being on a budget, I went to the local pull a part and found a donor XJ with less mileage and a steering system that looked to be in better shape than mine. It took me a while to find something suitable and I guess I got lucky. After less than an hour I had a complete power steering system in my hands, pump, lines, and box. Total out the door was about 60 bucks, can't beat that! A few hours later I had it installed in my XJ, and the steering has never been better. While you are under there you may want to check everything else for play or loose hardware. Hope this helps!  

• Dec 8, 2010

Describe box feeling like its getting oils our getting worn out... I'm sure I still have the same one that came from the factory  

• Dec 9, 2010

the steering shaft that goes my steering box has quite so bit a play on it... Bad sTeering box?... if so would a box off a newer xj fit... There is a pretty new xj at the junk yard that has the motor and transmission pulled that I plan on pulling the brake booster off of... Just curious if that would fit mine  

• Dec 10, 2010

I just did a steering box replacement last weekend on my zj. Box was from a Jeeps only junkyard and was $75. If the wheel has play when park with the engine off check the connection of the sttering shaft to the box. Tighten it and if that doesn't work i check the threads on the box where this connection is to see if its slipping. Then if that doesn't work replace the box. I think a newer xj box would work. Check the bolt pattern.  

Stalefishsk8er

• Dec 11, 2010

XjShake said: the steering shaft that goes my steering box has quite so bit a play on it... Bad sTeering box?... if so would a box off a newer xj fit... There is a pretty new xj at the junk yard that has the motor and transmission pulled that I plan on pulling the brake booster off of... Just curious if that would fit mine Click to expand...

• Dec 14, 2010

• Dec 15, 2010

Thanks jeepkid... I assumed my box ias loose because atty the beginning you can see me spin the wheel side to side.. With out any resistance... Could be due to the power steering pump...  

no that play would be in the box and might want to consider rebuilding it but its not the worst iv seen  

XjShake said: Ok... I don't drive my jeep very often due to that... ill just pull a column while I'm at the salvage yard... Click to expand...

Yea... I found kit but waSnt sure on a good place to buy just the hydraulic cylinder... I would rather buy a winch or new tires or a new lift... Probably tires and winch here pretty quick  

XjShake said: Yea... I found kit but waSnt sure on a good place to buy just the hydraulic cylinder... I would rather buy a winch or new tires or a new lift... Probably tires and winch here pretty quick Click to expand...

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Jeeps wandering all over the road

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DRY STEERING TEST PROCEDURE

Sgt_USMC said: Welcome to the forum! Have you had an alignment done? post a pic of the results if so. What pressure are you running in your tires? After, if nothing is out of spec, do a dry steering test. Here’s a thread on how to do it. DRY STEERING TEST PROCEDURE If your Jeep is suffering from bad road manners, a wobble, shimmy, improper tracking, there are a lot of different things to look at. Steering, suspension, wheel/tire, bearings, bushings and tire pressure can all have an effect on the handling. One of the first things you should look at is your... www.wranglerforum.com Click to expand...

IIRC, JKs like around 5* caster. Do you have adjustable CAs or fixed length?  

It might not hurt to run a little less air in the tires also. Drop it down to about 28 I think.  

You are definitely short on caster, I could see that with just the way the springs are bowed. Also your toe is way out. Of course you could have a bent track bar and it need to be replaced, otherwise it needs one end adjusted. But a 6 inch RC lift is your biggest problem I am guessing. I can see it looks like you are running dual steering stabilizer, that will just mask issues. I am also guessing you are running a drop pitman arm, not a good thing to do. We need to view your steering geometry. And 6 inch is just to much lift to run to be honest. And to run it correctly cost money.  

Looks like the toe was corrected. Pictures underneath of the front and suspension would help.  

Someone else’s crappy build, they dumped as beyond their ability, alignment all screwed up Inadequate caster will make it want to wander Buying a vehicle that has know issues assuming you can easily fix will either be a lesson in repairs or a lesson in poor assumptions  

You need to fix the caster, appears the control arms are not adjustable. Likely other issues too Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk  

So I just got a front control arm relocation kit to see if I can lower the angle of the control arms.  

Looks like this Jeep was raised without replacing the lower control arms with longer ones.  

Welcome to the forum. You will have a number of things to change. I agree with the comments on caster.  

What exactly are those number of things?  

that's exactly why i wouldn't ever buy a lifted jeep  

Your Jeep is wandering because of insufficient caster. You have about two degrees. Stock is 4.2 degrees. You can try to fix it with a set of adjustable front control arms or, easier and cheaper, a set of geometry correction brackets. But your other issue is the 6” lift. That’s high for a JK (and unnecessary for 35” tires). The more lift you have, the harder it is to get acceptable caster and pinion angles.  

I am with others RC, 6” and wrong control arms. As others have said get the caster fixed, adjustable control arms or fixed longer if an option, but recommends adjustable. Once caster is fixed it “may” help, 6” is a lot of lift.  

Yeah, I'd also do some measuring and compare to stock JK. See what actual lift is on it. Is it all suspension lift, or is there a body lift? You may be able to lower which will help all the other adjustments needed. Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk  

what did they recommend?  

All 4 tire barrings tie bar, tie bar ends, drag bar, and front lower control arms.  

keep us posted to see if thats the fix.  

OP, I had the same issue. Did a dry steer and found that my drag link wast shot. My toe was off by 2 degrees as well. The toe correction fixed most of the wander. But it still did a strange veer when going over little rises and dips on the highway at 70mph. That completely disappeared with a new drag link and ball joints. BTW, who confirmed the lift height, the previous owner / seller? I would measure it to be 100% sure.  

Based on your pictures... Tie rod boots are torn on both side and leaking. Could be the wide angle but driver side tie rod end looks like it could be an issue. Rear axle seal looks to be leaking. Maybe front driver too unless there was some recent work done. Start the jeep, put someone in the driver seat and have them slowly turn the wheel a quarter turn in each direction while you watch the drag link ends and tie rod ends. Any abnormal shifting or uneven movement is a bad joint.  

I will post the results on Wednesday day!  

YETI XD™ JK Front Adjustable Track Bar (RED) (Part# 75033001)

I'm fairly new to this, but learning every day. I thought lower CA adjust mainly the position of the axle, i.e. wheelbase, and the upper CA set the castor. Also, nothing to do with steering, but you may want to check for bump stop extensions as well. Looks like none in the pics. If none, I wouldn't wheel hard until they were added.  

Lower control arms do both. Upper control arms only adjust caster.  

Change the grill, the jeep is squinting and can't see where it's going.  

There always one  

Maybe the OPs Jeep has ocular myopia.  

rsmwrangler said: Very clear from the alignment sheet your caster is too low. 2* Your control arms are stock but if you look in the front lowers you have caster correction cams or whatever the heck they're called. Cheapest way to add caster, obviously they're not doing their job in your case. If the Jeep was indeed lifted 6" that's a lot of lift as everyone is saying and one that requires all 8 arms to correct your wheelbase, set caster, fix pinion angles etc etc. and still i don't think standard arms will work on a 6" lift. Your steering components may be shot as judged by everything seeping grease, rusted etc. Not what you want to hear but if you really wanted to fix that up you may have a lot more things to replace than what you posted this "reputable" shop told you needed.. Hoping they're not giving you OE steering and oe trackbars at the price of the best aftermarket parts and dealer markups for installation. I've seen that before especially when it seems the customer come with my Jeep is wandering and here is my credit card... If that Jeep has a 6" lift via springs/spacers etc it'll be on your best interest to perhaps bring her down to a 3.5-4.5" if you want something lifted that much which setup correctly is not cheap, or 2.5" which can be cheaper. If money is not a concern get a long arm kit now and fix that biatch up. RC lifts are one of the worst out there because they do a lot of cut cornering to give people a budget height. I wish they will fix that because they have a great customer service but unfortunately 90% of the stuff they sell is cheap crap. If they give the market cheap with quality the masses will flock their website That's not the case with RC. They don't seem to check for example Jeep websites looking to understand what makes ther kits garbage. Perhaps they're just happy to make a sell.. Click to expand...

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Jeep XJ Steering Upgrades: Beef Up Your Cherokee

Once you start running big meats on your XJ, you're going to notice something:

The stock steering is terrible for big tires.

Besides being weak, it'll often feel loose or sloppy - and have some bad handling.

There are a few different options out there for upgrading your Jeep XJ's steering, so we're going to take a look at a few of them and why you might choose one over the other.

We'll start off with simpler, cheaper ways to improve your steering, then look at some beefy 1 ton upgrade options.

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Common Problems

Big tires can result in big death wobbles.

While some of this is due to the Cherokee's puny steering and not amazing design, sometimes it's just poor maintenance. A few things you can do are:

• Wiggle parts around with a crowbar: Try to find loose bushings. The track bar is often loose or needs new bushings.
• Check the steering box: It'll loosen up with age, but you can tighten it up . It might also need a rebuild.
• Inspect the frame around the steering box for cracks and check the tightness of the mounting bolts. This is an area of the unibody that often needs to be reinforced .

Follow This Upgrade Plan

The basic sequence we'd follow for upgrading your XJ's steering looks like this:

• Use RuffStuff's "The Cure" bushing/boot ( from RuffStuff Specialties )
• Replace the dinky stock aluminum steering box spacer with a steel one ( from JcrOffroad )
• Add a steering box brace ( from M.O.R.E. )
• Upgrade your XJ to 1 ton steering ( from RuffStuff or Currie Enterprises )
• Consider Jeep XJ frame stiffeners for the unibody

Before you upgrade to 1 ton steering, it's really important to strengthen the steering box mount with a steel spacer and a brace to keep the box frame ripping off the thin unibody.

If you're going to throw on some big tires or do serious wheeling, you should very much consider welding on frame stiffeners to:

• Make the XJ's unibody more rigid
• Provide thicker mount points for links, crossmembers, etc.

The Cure: RuffStuff's Cheap Solution to Less Jeep XJ Steering Slop

If you're just looking to get rid of some steering slop, RuffStuff Specialties patented a little disk they call "The Cure". It's a piece of Delrin that sandwiches between the drag link and the tie rod.

This doesn't just fit Jeep XJ Cherokees, it fits other Jeeps as well, plus 1 ton steering setups.

The way it works is simple:

Lots of Jeeps have a little dead spot in their steering . This occurs when you're turning the wheel, the drag link moves, and the drag link "flops" from front-to-back (of back-to-front) of the tie rod.

That little extra flop is the source of your dead spot, and happens because the stock rubber drag link end boot is soft and flexy - Delrin is harder, smooth, and self-lubing, so that you won't have that flop.

Installation is simple:

• Removing the drag link from the tie rod
• Removing the rubber boot from the drag link end (and toss it)
• Install "The Cure" in place of the rubber boot
• Reinstall the drag link

The Cure is only for use at the junction of the drag link and tie rod - not at the knuckles or pitman. That means you only need one.

The Cure fits a bunch of different Jeeps:

• 1984 to 2001 XJ Cherokee
• 1997 to 2006 TJ Wrangler, Rubicon and Unlimited
• 1986 to 1992 MJ Comanche
• 1987 to 1996 YJ Wrangler
• 1993 to 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ

Sometimes, you may need to shave or trim The Cure down to get it to seat correctly.

The ID for the Jeep XJ Cure is 5/8". Since 1 ton steering for XJs can have a similar flopping problem, RuffStuff also makes it in a 3/4" ID for 1 ton steering.

Apparently, there is a rubber/steel stock part for older full size Jeeps that is very similar to The Cure, but we don't have the part number.

The Cure for Jeep CJ/YJ/XJ/TJ - 5/8" ID

The cure for gm 1 ton steering - 3/4" id, reinforce it, 1) replace your stock cracked steering box spacer.

Did you know that your XJ has a steering box spacer sandwiched between the frame and the box?

It's aluminum, skeletal-looking, and breaks a lot on even moderately-wheeled rigs. It probably tends to crack on XJs where the unibody experiences a lot of flex. The cast aluminum isn't ductile, so it cracks instead of bending.

This is a must-fix if you plan to run big tires or do hard wheeling.

But it's an easy fix:

Replace it with a steel steering box spacer.

It's as simple as unbolting your steering box, slipping out your sad, broken aluminum spacer, and replacing it with a new steel spacer.

Do you need it?

Yes, a spacer and a brace are probably the first things you should upgrade in your steering if you're running big tires or a locker.

A steel replacement steering box spacer for your XJ, like the one from JcrOffroad, will hold up however long you want to wheel your rig.

This is a bolt-on part - no drilling or welding required.

The JcrOffroad spacer is CNC-cut from 3/16" steel plate and powdercoated to last without rusting. It also includes mounting hardware - it's a good idea to use red Loctite on the bolt threads so they don't work loose.

2) Hold Your Steering Box in Place with a Steering Box Brace

Do you like the idea of ripping your XJ's steering box off your frame?

Probably not.

That's why you need a steering box brace for your XJ.

The brace bolts around the sector shaft casting on the steering box and then ties into the frame on the passenger side. There are weld-on and bolt-on braces, but we think the best brace is a bolt-on - it's much easier to install.

If you're going to run big tires or a locker on your XJ, this is another must-do with a steel spacer.

The M.O.R.E. steering brace bolts on easily. You don't need to make any mods other than enlarging one frame hole to 7/16".

To see how easy the installation is, check out the instructions .

3) Reduce Unibody Flex with Frame Stiffeners

The XJ's unibody construction is infamous for its flexibility.

Get too crossed up on a trail, and you might not be able to open your doors.

While frame stiffeners aren't a direct steering upgrade, they're something to consider if you're going to be doing hard wheeling. They'll decrease the overall frame flexibility in your XJ, which is a good thing if you want tight steering.

They complement large tires that put lots of leverage on your suspension, and they also give you a solid place for mounting suspension points, rock sliders, and drivetrain mounts.

We're showing just the front frame stiffeners from RuffStuff here, but you can plate your XJ's frame from the front to the rear if you want.

Jeep XJ Steering Kits - WHAT TO LOOK FOR

If your want to substantially improve your XJ's steering and strength, take a look at putting in a kit that has bigger tie rod ends (or heims), a bigger tie rod, and a bigger drag link. Most XJ owners that are upgrading to 1 ton steering are looking for 3 things:

• Strong steering
• No death wobble
• Reasonable articulation while fourwheeling

Let's just note here:

If you're looking at 1 ton steering for your XJ, that means you already have a steel steering box spacer installed along with a steering box brace, at the least. If your tires and lift justify huge TREs and links, we're assuming you've done the basic reinforcement that every XJ wheeler should do.

Depending on your Jeep, the Dana 30 or Dana 44 steering linkage leaves a lot to be desired in terms of strength and handling.

So, there are a few ways to achieve these goals and different manufacturers have different takes on the best steering system. So, here are some thought and facts:

Do You Need Crossover Steering?

If you're lifting your XJ over 4-6" you should look into crossover steering.

On a stock Jeep Cherokee XJ, the tie rod is mounted under the knuckles.

If you upgrade your steering to "crossover" style, the tie rod is moved to the top of the knuckles.

What's the difference?

There are two important things:

First, when the tie rod is moved on top of the knuckle, it's out of the way of rocks and obstacles that might bend it when you're out on the trail. This is a good thing if you're doing a lot of trail time, but we don't see it as hugely essential.

While there's been a pretty big trend to go with crossover steering for all types of 4x4s, there are plenty of people doing low-lift, big-tire builds that stick with the low steering. It's not too hard to gently winch or drag out a bent tie rod on the trail anyway.

The second thing to think about is "How high is your lift?". The higher you lift your suspension, the more extreme the drag link angle becomes.

The ideal setup for your XJ would be that your tie rod and drag link would be parallel. Of course, this is the real world.

That ain't happenin' and the drag link is angled even in the stock configuration.

However, if you move up the tie rod, you can flatten the angle between the tie rod and drag link and improve your steering. Most crossunder XJ steering upgrades are rated for around 4-6" of lift. You may be able to go bigger, but realize that there'll be compromises in your steering.

If you need to drop your angle, many lift kits come with drop pitman arms , or you can pick one up separately.

Tie Rod Taper

From the factory, your Cherokee will have a 5/8" taper at the pitman arm and knuckles. If you're breaking tie rod ends, or think you might, the best thing to do is make them bigger!

You have generally have two options here:

• Drill them straight out to 5/8" or 3/4" : This allows you to use a 5/8" or 3/4" heim joint.
• Use a taper reamer to resize to a 1.5" per foot taper: This allows you to use the 1 ton GM tie rod ends/drag link ends.

We'll talk more below about tie rod ends vs heims, but let's talk about the drilling and tapering first.

Neither option is particularly difficult. If you're going to drill to 5/8" or 3/4" you need a 1/2" drill. Go slowly, use oil to lube the bit as you drill - there isn't much to it.

Tapering? It's a tiny bit trickier, but not much.

You need a taper reamer and, again, a 1/2" drill. Put the taper reamer in the hole and apply pressure while drilling. Use lots of oil.

With the taper reamer, you want to focus on keeping the drill square to the knuckle or pitman and test fit the tie rod or drag link end frequently while reaming.

Very important!

GM tie rod ends and drag link ends have the same taper (taper is the change in diameter along the length), but the end diameters are different - make sure that you're constantly test-fitting so you don't over-ream!

Tie Rod Ends vs. Heim Joints

Ah, the great debate, TREs vs. heims. A general rule of thumb is this:

TREs for the street, TREs or heims for fourwheeling.

Tie rod ends are a ball joint mounted in single shear with a tapered joint. They're secured with a jam nut on the shank and a castle nut and cotter pin on the tapered side.

They have zerks that can be filled with grease, are easily available, and the 1 ton joints you'd use in an Jeep XJ are super strong.

Heim joints are a ball joint mounted in single or double shear with a straight joint. Instead of a tapered "pin", they have a straight through-hole. They're secured with a jam nut on the shank end and bolted with a bolt in the through-hole.

Heims are good for when you need tons of steering articulation. If you can mount them in double shear, they'll be stronger than a comparable tie rod end.

"Farm" type heims aren't great for running on a Cherokee - you should look for some higher quality teflon-lined heims that have the tight tolerances you want in your steering. 

We prefer tie rod ends for an XJ that's going to see a bunch of street use. TREs last longer and you don't have to worry about keeping the joint tight. (You could safety wire your heims, but we don't see a lot of people doing that in practice.)

TREs might have a little less articulation, but they're fine in an XJ when you use the high-misalignment GM 1 ton joints.

Tie Rod and Drag Link Tubing

For most steering upgrade kits, XJ Cherokee owners have two options:

• DOM tubing : Kits with Drawn Over Mandrel Tubing tend to come in 1.125" diameter to 1.5" diameter sizes.
• Solid tubing : There is one kit out there with a solid steel drag link and tie rod!

Which one should you get?

Strengthwise, the options are ordered like this:

It shouldn't come as a huge surprise that bigger and thicker steel is stronger than smaller, thinner steel. But it's a little more nuianced than that.

Structually speaking, when a tube or rod needs to resist a bending load, the majority of the load is carried furthest from the center of mass - in other words, looking at the end of a steel rod, the outside of it does the most work. You can eliminate much of the inside and still get comparable strength.

While the solid rod is ultimately stronger than the 1.5" 0.25" wall tube, it's not going to make a huge difference out on the trail. If you're waffling between a couple of steering upgrade kits for your XJ, tube or solid probably shouldn't be the deciding factor.

If you're making your XJ into a lightweight trail rig, round tubing is an easy area to kill some weight while keeping your steering strong.

Tie Rod Dent Resistence

With a sufficient diameter, you can make your tie rod super resistant to bending. But if you want it to be truly strong, you need it to be thick.

A thin tie rod that gets dented will weaken and bend at the dent.

Make sure that any steering kit you put on your XJ uses at least 1/4" wall tube if you need strength upgrades in your steering.

Steering Upgrades for Jeep XJ Cherokees

Jeep xj 1 ton steering upgrade from ruffstuff.

This kit from RuffStuff Specialties ticks all the boxes for us. It comes cut and welded,  it's relatively painless to install, it's strong, and it fixes your steering.

The kit uses the common 7/8" shank GM 1 ton tie rod and drag link ends. The pitman end is high-misalignment.

It does have a crossunder tie rod, but it uses large 1.5" 1/4" wall DOM steel tube - at that size it'll be dent and bend proof for all but the worst abuse. With  a crossover tie rod, you'd also need to do more work to your knuckles.

This is a complete 1 ton steering setup for your XJ, from the steering box to the knuckles.

To install it, you need to:

• Ream the knuckles and pitman arm with a 1.5" per foot taper reamer
• Bolt on the tie rod and drag link

It's made in the USA.

Need a 1 ton DIY kit that you you weld yourself? It's cheaper and more flexible if you've got a custom setup. Use this kit.

Need an even stronger kit with 3/4" heim joints? It's also DIY cutting and welding. Use this kit.

Currie Heavy Duty Jeep Tie Rod System

This is a bolt-on kit that works with 2-6" of lift. While it doesn't look to us like it should work very well, lots of people love this kit and say that it's made a big difference in the handling of their XJ! Fair enough.

It uses a factory-style T setup, super strong parts, and is set up for crossunder steering.

It's definitely the easiest kit to install - no drilling or reaming are required to put it together.

The tie rod and drag link are solid alloy rod and the TREs have the factory taper. While Currie says this kit is 200% stronger than stock, our concern is that a snapped tie rod end could put you in a pickle.

The drag link in particular has an integrated end that would require replacement of the whole rod when it wears out.

The kit expects you to use stock parts from knuckles to pitman arm. That means that if you have a lift kit with a dropped pitman, you'll want to dig out your stock one and reinstall it.

• Ensure you have a stock pitman arm

CavFab Jeep XJ Crossover Steering

This kit from CavFab replaces your tie rod and drag link with solid 1.5" diameter steel rod! Both will both definitely resist bending more than any other XJ steering kit.

This kit does not use tie rod ends - it uses 5/8" heim joints. Teflon-lined alloy heim joints will last longer than plain steel, but tie rod ends will last longer than these heims.

One of the benefits to this kit is that you can run the tie rod under the knuckle (like stock) or over the knuckle. You drill the knuckles once, out to 5/8" and can swap at will.

This is pretty handy, but if you're doing street miles, make sure you properly torque the heim bolts. Loose bolts can wallow out holes, break, or just fall apart. There is no castle nut/cotter pin combo to retain the nut like a TRE.

• Drill the knuckles and pitman arm to 5/8"
• Bolt on the tie rod and drag link in a UTK or OTK configuration

Made in the USA.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Tyler branham.

Tyler came out of the womb with a Birfield in one hand and a stick of 6010 in the other, ready to weld any piece of trail-busted steel back together. He has wheeled, broken, and modified a variety of rigs, from Toyotas to Jeeps to Fords to Chevies. He likes doing long distance overland travel and would happily spend every night in the bed of a pickup under the stars.

Last updated: September 5, 2019

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• WJ- Grand Cherokee (1999-2004)

sway or wandering?

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I lifted my Jeep with a 2.5" spring lift. New isolators, extended front links, new gas shocks, JKS TB, secondary SS, all new TRE's. alignment, everything checks out good for the ball joints. Been having some bumpsteer and quick wobble out of the front passenger tire on bumps. I swapped the front shocks to see if it is a bad shock (as advice from CheapJeep)...no difference. I also have some moderate sway or wander on the highway, most notable when I run on a pavement seam or road variance. I have been kicking around the idea of getting a set of front LCA"S. I was thinking that getting a set of fixed arms from Rusty's would eliminate some of the problem. I removed and inspected the upper front control arms and the bushings look pristine. The front right lower axle side bushing has some dry rot and visible stress cracks in the goofy oval bushing. My thought is that those bushings have quite a bit of movement in them even when brand new. Should I get the aftermarket arms with the solid rubber bushings or just pop a new set of OEM arms on the lower front? I think the rears move alot as well as I can actually see them going back and forth if I rock the truck in park. I'm talking they move a half inch back and forth. Would the aftermarket arms with solid rubber bushings make enough of a difference to be worth the money? I always hated the sloppy road manners of the truck before I lifted it. I like a truck to feel more precise on the road. Anyone else put arms on with that size lift? Did it help? Truck has 39,000 miles. Thanks.  

Did you check the rear A arm bushings and ball joint as well? The bushings tend to wear out over time. When this happened on mine, I had to constantly adjust the steering a bit to to counteract the swap. Very bad driving like this.  

Yea, I was under there and checked the A-arm. Although pretty rust covered, the bushings seem solid and I could not get detectable movement. I guess my question is do the aftermarket LCA's with the solid rubber bushings make much difference versus the OEM oval "wobbly" bushing? I know that Jeep designed them that way for a smooth ride. When lifted, it changes the angle of the oval bushing. Not to mention that they are cracking on my truck. Thanks for the hint. I know I will be doing the rear A-arm eventually if I keep the truck long enough.  

One member on here just ordered poly bushings for the A arm. Waiting for his comment on how these perform.  

I have been talking to Tony at Rusty's about some fixed LCA's. My thought is the solid rubber OEM type bushings should make the truck drive more precise. I think the WJ's sloppy handling is inherent in the design of the axle end bushings on front and rear factory LCA's. I have NO plans to lift the truck any further, so adjustables are not needed. If they improve the front end I will get a set for the rear as well.  

Are those standard length LCAs? I have a similar problem on my '04 and I would bet the farm on the suspension bushings. Got my eye on that thread too.  

Rusty's will make them to length based on your amount of lift. A small amount of increase makes a big difference in caster. You just better be content with the amount of lift you have. I know I am. My wife and daughter are short. Haha  

Well I got 3" of lift out of it. Good thing the grab handle is there. Still, I hear a comment every time she gets in and every time she gets out. Good thing I only went with a 30" tire.  

Got an alignment print out. After lifting it with 2.5 FatBob/Rusty coils and new isolators my caster is sitting right at 4.5 degrees. The acceptable range for a WJ per factory is 6.0-7.5 degrees. Now I just gotta get ahold of Tony at Rusty's and get some front LCA's. I'm curious of how much caster I can reclaim without sacrificing the pinion angle. Anybody have the knowledge in that? I'd like to get the most benefit without going too much and causing more problems.  

Since you have an '04 you have the good front driveshaft but I'd still be conservative.Me,I wouldn't try to go much past 6 deg to try and keep the vibes in check. Here's some good driveshaft angle info from the fsm.  

Attachments

• Driveshaft.pdf 1 MB Views: 303

I got my LCA's from Rusty's. I had them make me the clearance arms so I can run stock wheels without spacers. Install was pretty easy except for getting the second bolt in. I had to jack up the subframe and push the rear tire with my feet while pushing the front tire with my hands. Once I got it rocking I took one hand and shoved the rear bolt through when the hole lined up. The oval bushings in my stock LCA's was shifted toward the front. The new LCA's made a HUGE difference in the wandering. They have genuine CLEVITE bushings of solid rubber. First impression is that it solved all my bumpsteer, wobble and wandering issues. The oval bushings in the stock LCA's are not designed to work at an angle. At stock height they are level. Anybody doing more than a BB should seriously look into a set of aftermarket front LCA's. To get the clearance arms for a WJ you need to call them. They do not show them on the website. Ask for Tony and tell him that Greg from Pittsburgh told you about them. One glitch is that the axle side needs a washer on both sides of the bushing to take up the gap. The oval bushing in the stock LCA's is wider that the bushing on the Rusty's arms. Get the yellow plated washers so they will not rust away and cause problems down the road. I will post pics when I get a chance to climb back under there. I am going to get a set for the rears when I save up a few bucks. I know that the oval bushings in those are crap too. I can see them move when I rock the truck in park. That should really firm up the handling even more. This is what they look like:  

This has my attention as my wife likes the wj except for the sloppy handling. Maybe this is another option other than a trade. :thumbsup::thumbsup:  

They cost me $150 plus shipping. I have been told that the rear OEM LCA's are a big source of wandering when you lift it. When you give it gas the axle will torque toward the front on the passenger side, causing you to compensate with the steering. I think the rears would make a big difference as well. I had instablity in the front and I needed to deal with that first. I am probably going to do the rears within a month or two. Just be SURE to torque them with the full weight on the springs. That is where people end up destroying bushings and then blame the manufacturer. People on the net talk shit about Rusty's bushings but they are genuine CLEVITE bushiings. Supposedly the best there is.  

Thanks for the additional info. Considering my options right now and this looks good to me.  

Been thinking about this post this morning... Between the rear upper ball joint, lower control arms, and front control arms there is potential for much wear and play in the suspension.  

I took it out on the highway. At higher speeds it still wanders a bit, especially when going on and off the throttle. That is attributable to the rear LCA's and that stupid oval cutout bushing. Been researching the net and found several complaints about it and it being solved with new rear LCA's. I certainly am not going to put OEM arms back on and have it come back as soon as they break in. OEM arms cost as much as Rusty's fixed arms. I was looking around and the pricey JKS arms have the same CLEVITE bushing as the cheap Rusty's arms. I think it's a no brainer!  

I had been considering a trade because of the sloppiness until this morning when I learned my drive to work will take me on large amounts of gravel roads daily. The recent storms and flooding wiped out an already questionable bridge on a main state route. The WJ does much better any gravel than any car does. Thanks for this thread!  

Some shots. Install was a piece of cake, I'm used to adversity Haha. If my corroded bolts came out easy yours should too. If you have a helper to rock the tire it is super simple. (I didn't)  

I am thinking the facts in this thread are "sticky" worthy!  

After driving to work and back, the steering is much more precise and responsive. At high speed there is still some wander when you get on the gas. As I said that is the rear LCA's and their sloppy bushing. On a winding road it steers like a new truck. That bad wobble and bumpsteer in the right front is pretty much gone as far as I see so far. If you hit a sharp hole there is just the expected reaction that you would get out of any truck and it is the same on both sides now. Before I put the arms on I wouldn't drive it on the highway. I will be doing the rears for sure from the results I have seen.  

purchase a pair of Core lower front arms to replace my Rocky Road Arms which proved to be to long(16 1/4) for my WJ. The reason for the replacement is to get my pinion angle back where it should be and get rid of my vibration in the front shaft. I was going to go with IRO but read they are to long too. The Core Arms can be set as short as 15". In the pictures I have them set at 16" and you can see how much adjustment I have. These things are very well built. Shipping took less then a week. I'll probably buy the front uppers and rear in the future rather than replace the bushing in the stock arms. Highly recomended. Click to expand...

Front lowers 15.75" Front uppers 14.9" Rear lowers 17.875" Click to expand...

My new arms measured 16" on center exactly.  

Which is about perfect for your lift. I am afraid of them on a stock setup. Here are the front uppers/lowers in a package deal. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Upper-and-L...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232fde2d24  

Then the adjustables you found are a great deal! I looked all over and didnt see those for some reason. I wasn't really looking for adjustables though. You can put them on now and adjust if and when you lift. I think you said you were going to lift it. Just be aware that if you put anything larger than a 30" 9.50 tire that you will probably rub at full lock without less backspace or adding spacers. Wait....you may have said you were adding spacers?  

Your stock arms have a bend in them. The adjustables don't have a bend. Double check the clearance at full lock with the adjustables. They are going to be close but you may get away with it. I have the exact same tires and size that you do and they are brand new. I have some feathering of the front tires on the outter edge. Hopefully after the alignment and the LCA's it will even out. They were noticeable after a couple hundred miles pre alignment and LCA's. Was reminding me of my younger days when I had BFG AT T/A's and could literally see them wearing out daily. I may rotate them right away to see if the changes have helped in that arena.  

Thanks for that reminder. I will take a look myself and make note of it. :thumbsup:  

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Steering wander after full front end repair

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Replaced: All tie rod ends, Pitman arm, ball joints, sway bar links, track bar. Then full wheel alignment immediately after. Issue: Erratic random steering wander to both the right or left. Whether accelerating, maintaining speed, or braking it will pull one way or the other randomly. We adjusted the steering box a quarter turn at a time and test drove it after each adjustment with no change in problem. Have checked all steering components multiple times to see if we didn't tighten something but everything is as it should be. The only things left could be the steering damper shock, though it seemed fine when we had it off, or sway bar, but it seems fine and the bushings are good. It doesn't make sense.  

Also it is a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 V8. We also did a 2.5" lift recently but the issue only showed its ugly face after the front end components were replaced.  

And with the lift kit I replaced all the shocks.  

Did it wander before you put the lift kit on? Was the lift kit and new front end parts put on at the same time?  

Who did the alignment? I'd be discussing the issue with them.  

Local shop. Came highly recommended. If all else fails I will take it back, but the alignment seems good, and the way it drives it doesn't make sense it would be an alignment issue.  

Check out Eric O and his Jeep mods.  

There was wander in the steering before the lift, but no different after the lift. The lift was done months before the front end was replaced. The steering wasn't terrible before the front end was replaced and the truck drove alright, I just wanted to have everything brand new.  

If all the joints are new and tight and the alignment is correct at the front, then you need to look at the rear joints next. another possibility is the caster angle is off, was this checked when the alignment was done?  

Alignment shops don't always do it right... After I installed my lift kit years ago and took it to an alignment shop, I had some pretty bad wandering and vibration/death wobble. Using the tape measure alignment, I gave it more toe-in and it was perfect. Since your parts are all new, it should be easy to turn. I'd start with measuring the distance between the front of the tires and the back of the tires. There should be a few tenths of a degree of toe-in. I'm not sure what the exact inches measurement should be. When I had 33" tires on my XJ, I found that ~1/8" toe in (closer at front of tires) gave me good driving response.  

Check the rear suspension. WJ's don't use a rear track bar like most coil sprung Jeep vehicles, this makes it more susceptible to 'rear steer' when the components out back are worn out. The rear upper control arm bushings are usually the main culprit, however the lower control arm bushings can cause similar symptoms.  

I had the same wandering issue after doing my 3" lift with new steering components. I got rid of it by ... 1) Doing exactly what the guy above said. The vehicle really wants about 3/16" toe-in. I did the alignment myself using a lakewood alignment kit with tape measures. 2) Adjustable control arms to bring the caster back within spec. It's a fight here ... caster vs. pinion angle. Give and take. The problem could also be as simple as a bad steering stabilizer. Make sure your steering stabilizer is good.  

I took it back to the shop that did the alignment and had them check it out. It came back perfect. The guys at the shop also spent 3 hours of their own time looking the truck over after taking it for a test drive and experiencing themselves just how bad it is. They called me back in and said everything looks fine, that I had done the front end perfectly, and the fact that it is driving so bad is "just weird". Atleast I don't feel so retarded for not being able to figure this out myself, but it definitely doesn't help my situation. I think next will be a steering stabilizer because its a cheap start, and then I'll look into adjustable control arms. I know the rear sway bar is also pretty weak so I'll take a look at that too.  

Have you pulled the front control arms off one bolt at a time and inspected all the bolt holes vs the bolt for play? It could be that one of your CA bolt holes is wallowed.  

X2, double check your control arm bushings and rear lowers + upper A arm visually at the very least. Try moving them in every direction and looking for play. I believe you can have very minimal play but anymore is no bueno  

Also did you get larger tires around the time the problem started? I got wider tires on my WJ and it started tramlining like crazy... And that was going from stock tires to 245 (still stock but the wider of the two)  

I have rear steer and wandering going on in both my '02 and '04 WJs. They both need rear upper control arm bushings as well as lower control arms. It's just too damn cold right now for me to do anything about it. The '02 is lifted 3", the '04 is factory ride height. I know for a fact that replacing these parts right now would take care of the wandering and bad steering feeling.  

I agree with Jeeples and Mattyjm. My WJ has a OME lift and it use to wander a lot. I checked the rear suspension and the Upper a-arm bushings were toast, especially the ball joint attached to the axle. I replace all the bushings and ball joint, but I also added a spacer to the ball joint, I used the kit from Iron Rock off road. My wondering issue is now gone. The important thing about the spacer kit, is that it returns the arm back to parallel to the ground, which takes the stress off the bushings from being at a constant angle, which accelerates wear.  

I am installing a steering stabilizer this weekend, and while I have it up I will check all the control arms as well as the bushings and bearings in the rear.  

How's it going, any improvement?  

Just curious- did you replace ball joints with adjustable type? Otherwise how could the front end shop set camber and more importantly caster, which controls wander. Only toe-in is adjustable. I am considering the moog adjustable upper ball joints for my 2003 overland to correct camber only as caster is just fine.  

Hey guys here's where I am at. I bought and installed a rough country steering stabilizer just over a week ago, and While I had it up on stands I decided to pull of the wheels and do another full check on everything. I removed the tierod and drag link ends from the knuckles and noticed the passenger side ball joints were very "tight" even being brand new. So as much of a pain as it is I pressed them both out and discovered the upper ball joint to be nearly seized. I have since replaced it with a new one and have complained and received a refund. I did not purchase adjustable ball joints, though now I am curious about them. With the new ball joint in place, the lower re-installed, and a brand new stabilizer the steering was improved, but not perfect by any means. It is somewhat driveable, but while the steering is no longer erratic and unpredictable the issue is that when I accelerate, the Jeep pulls to the left, and when I take my foot off the gas it pulls back to the right. This is much more noticeable when driving at 60km/h and higher and becomes scary at anything over 100km/h. So, after more research on the forums I have found a few others who experienced this and found the issue to be in the rear lower control arm bushings. That said I have a set of both lower control arms, the upper A arm, and center ball joint on order. I will update when installed.  

The dead giveaway is it does it under power. Crazy you had two problems.  

Everything the guys above said and track bar condition too if that wasn't mentioned. Bushings worn in that guy will let the front axle roam around a bit and it'll feel "squirrely." Probably get some clunking too if it were the case but easy enough to check.  

I had a similar problem and it was bad rear lower control arms.  

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FGC Group acquires assets of NSG Group in Russia

Date: 11 July 2023

The FGC Group has announced the successful acquisition of NSG Group's Russian assets, which include the Pilkington Glass Russia plant and STiS Group. The parties involved have not disclosed the details of the deal.

Pilkington Glass Russia operates a glass factory in Ramenskoye, Moscow Region, with a nominal production capacity of 800 tons of glass per day. The STiS Group consists of eight production sites located in Serpukhov, Vladimir, Saratov, Naberezhnye Chelny, Krasnodar, Stavropol, Voronezh, and St. Petersburg, specializing in the manufacture of double-glazed windows and specialized glass products.

With this acquisition, the FGC Group is expanding its assets in the glass industry. In 2022, the group became the new owner of the glass businesses previously owned by Guardian Industries, operating under the new brand name Larta Glass since September.

Following the purchase of NSG Corporation's Russian assets, the FGC Group's portfolio will include three flat glass plants and eight glass processing plants. The Pilkington Glass plant will operate under the Larta Glass brand, while STiS Group will continue its presence in the double-glazed window market under its current brand.

Vladimir Voronin, President of the FGC Group of Companies, states, "The FGC group of companies encompasses high-tech enterprises, including Larta Glass plants. The acquisition of Pilkington Glass assets strengthens our expertise and expands our market share. Furthermore, these new assets will significantly enhance our productivity and diversify our range of glass products."

Elena Rassudimova, CEO of Larta Glass, comments on the merger, saying, "Bringing together industry experts marks a new strategic chapter in the development of Larta Glass. The team at Pilkington Glass, along with their capabilities, experience, and motivation, align well with our corporate culture. Together, we will be able to offer customers a wider range of products, consistent high-quality service, and improved logistics. This will facilitate long-term partnerships and enhance our export potential, enabling us to provide consumers with innovative glass solutions for building facades and interiors."

Maxim Malikov, CEO of Pilkington Glass Russia, expresses enthusiasm for the merger, stating, "Combining factories under one brand allows us to leverage the expertise of two major players in the glass industry and advance glass production in Russia. This presents both business and personal growth opportunities for our team members. By complementing each other's competencies, we can elevate our products, services, and operations to a new level of quality."

Alexei Lyashko, General Director of STiS Group, comments, "Over its 25-year history, the STiS Group of Companies has become a leading player in the Russian market for translucent structures. We are delighted to have FSK as the buyer, as they share our values, possess strategic synergies with our existing business, and have the potential to enhance our operational capabilities."

The group companies will continue to produce high-quality products and operate as usual. The acquisition and subsequent integration of the companies are being overseen by the M&A team led by Pierre Polikarpov, who previously coordinated the acquisition of Larta Glass plants by the FGC Group of Companies a year ago.

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• NSG Group Announces Major Expansion of its Float Glass Business in Russia   >

NSG Group Announces Major Expansion of its Float Glass Business in Russia

The NSG Group announces that it has today signed agreements concerning the future expansion of its float glass business in Russia.

The first part of the expansion project relates to the merger of Pilkington Glass LLC with the STiS Group of Companies. Pilkington Glass LLC currently operates a float glass production line in Ramenskoye, near Moscow. STiS is the leading manufacturer of insulated glass units in Russia and has processing operations across Russia. The merged business will be the only integrated flat glass business in Russia combining float glass manufacturing facilities with nationwide downstream processing activities.

Concurrently, the Russian Corporation of Nanotechnologies (RUSNANO) and the European Bank for Reconstruction and Development (EBRD) will also invest in the merged business. These funds will finance the construction of a new float line at the site of the NSG Group’s current float line in Ramenskoye, Russia. The new investment from EBRD and RUSNANO will also enable the installation of new coating facilities in Ramenskoye, capable of manufacturing low-emissivity energy-saving products to supply the growing market for energy-efficient glazings in Russia.

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