costa brava travel guide

Michael Heffernan

Costa Brava

Stretching north from Barcelona to the Spanish–French border, the Costa Brava ('rugged coast') is undoubtedly the most beautiful of Spain's three main holiday coasts. Though there's plenty of tourism development, this wonderfully scenic region of Catalonia also unveils unspoiled coves, spectacular seascapes, wind-battered headlands, coast-hugging hiking paths, charming seaside towns with outstanding restaurants, and some of Spain's finest diving around the protected Illes Medes.

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Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Teatre-Museu Dalí

The first name that pops into your head when you lay eyes on this red castle-like building, topped with giant eggs and stylised Oscar-like statues and…

Casa Museu Dalí

Overlooking a peaceful cove in Port Lligat, a tiny fishing settlement 1km northeast of Cadaqués, this magnificent seaside complex was the residence and…

The evocative seaside archaeological site of Empúries, 1.5km northwest of central L'Escala, immerses you in a strategic Greek, and later Roman, trading…

Castell de Púbol

Palafrugell & Around

If you’re intrigued by artist Salvador Dalí, the Castell de Púbol is an essential piece of the puzzle. Between Girona and Palafrugell (22km northwest of…

Catedral de Girona

Towering over a flight of 86 steps rising from Plaça de la Catedral, Girona's imposing cathedral is far more ancient than its billowing baroque facade…

Illes Medes

The allure of the Illes Medes, seven islets off L'Estartit beach, lies in their range of depths (down to 50m), kaleidoscopic marine life, and underwater…

Monestir de Sant Pere de Rodes

Views of distant Pyrenean peaks and the deep-blue Mediterranean combine with a spectacular piece of Romanesque architecture at this hillside monastery,…

Museu d’Història dels Jueus

Until 1492, Girona was home to Catalonia’s second-most important medieval Jewish community, after Barcelona, and one of the country's finest Jewish…

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Costa Brava and beyond

19 Reasons You’ll Want to Visit Costa Brava in Spain Right Now

Costa Brava should definitely be your next holiday destination. After reading this first part of my complete Costa Brava travel guide, you’ll be booking your tickets faster than you can say, adios!

In the northwest corner of the Mediterranean is the sun-kissed land of Costa Brava, a rugged 200-kilometre-long coastline lined with pine-edged coves, golden beaches, and crystal clear water. Its beauty extends inland with Costa Brava being the home of important Greco-Roman ruins, quiet Medieval villages, and boasting a unique artistic heritage thanks to its most famous native, Salvador Dalí.

I spent five days in Costa Brava , which was was my first Catalonian experience and one I’ll never forget. I was blown away by its long history, incredible beauty, and of course the mouthwatering food found all over the Costa Brava. This pocket of Spain has something for everyone with a variety of things to do. So, if you fancy being a beach bum, a history nerd, an art critic, a Games of Thrones fan, or simply eat your way around, you can do it all and more in Costa Brava.

Want more information about Costa Brava? Check out my ultimate 5-day Costa Brava itinerary an travel guide  which includes climate info, the best time to visit, getting around, plus loads more practical information.

If you’re still not convinced the Costa Brava checks all your boxes, here are 19 reasons why you should definitely visit Costa Brava.

1. Costa Brava’s coastline is spectacular

Birdseye view of the Coastal Path in S’Agaro

It’s all in the name. Costa Brava’s major drawcard is its coastline as reflected in its name which literally means ‘rugged coast’ or ‘rough coast’, and rightly so.

Costa Brava has some of the bluest and clearest water in the world and the largest stretches of sand in Spain. Even artists like Marc Chagall and Pablo Picasso holidayed on the scenic Costa Brava coastline.

Don’t miss:  S’Agaró. Take the coast walk for incredible views like this.

Coastal Path at S’Agaro

2. Costa Brava has important Roman, Greek and Iberian archaeological sites

Ruins of Empúries

Walk amongst the ruins at archaeological sites that back to over 2,500 years.

Explore the idyllic location of the Greek and Roman ruins of Empúries, learn about the Iberians’ way of life and burial rituals at the settlement in Ullastret, and walk in the footsteps of Roman Emperors who once lived at today’s Tarragona Roman Ruins.

Don’t miss: Empúries. The ruins of Empúries was once the home of an ancient colony founded in the 6th century BC by the Greeks and later occupied by the Romans in the 1st century BC. These ruins are surrounded by beaches and coves with spectacular views of the Mediterranean.

3. Costa Brava has loads of charming medieval towns

Charming building in Peratallada

Costa Brava has over a dozen Medieval towns each more charming than the last. See the medieval quarter in Girona (where Game of Thrones was filmed) , climb the castle in Tossa de Mar, gaze over the mountainous Cap de Creus, and walk down quaint alleyways in Pals. If you can’t see them all then…

Don’t miss: Besalù and Peratallada, these towns ooze with charm make for perfect day trips.

View over Tossa de Mar castle

The scenic bridge in Besalú

4. Costa Brava has great weather all year round

View of the Coastal Path at S’Agaro

Costa Brava has a mild to warm climate making it the perfect destination to visit all year-round.

Since it’s located in northeast of Spain, Costa Brava has slightly cooler temperatures than most of the country which means it has cooler winters but also very pleasant summers.

5. Costa Brava has beaches for Days

View of S’Agaro beach

Few places come close to competing with the sheer beauty of the Costa Brava and its wide sandy beaches. There’s a mix of untouched beaches while others are a bit more urbanised.

Most beaches are well-equipped with all the usual services and facilities such as sports equipment hire and toilet, showers and change rooms plus a little beachside kiosk.

Don’t miss: Tossa de Mar. With three gorgeous beaches to choose from, who wouldn’t want to swim alongside a castle clad coastline? Plus, the old town is a must-see.

6. Costa Brava has some of the best food in Spain

Home to some of the world’s best chefs, the Costa Brava has some of the best food in Europe and often at a fraction of the cost you’d pay elsewhere in Europe.

From beachside cafés to Michelin-starred restaurants, Costa Brava caters to all budgets. Pun intended!

Its cuisine is influenced both by its coastal location and proximity to the Girona Pyrenees, which means seafood and meats are on the menu.

What to eat: The Costa Brava food scene revolves around rice, suquet, and traditional seafood dishes. Don’t miss pan Catalan, similar to Italy’s Bruschetta but with smashed tomatoes. Sounds simple but it’s all about the tomatoes here.

7. Costa Brava is the home of Salvador Dali

Dalí Theatre and Museum exterior

He might seem strange but you can’t deny the brilliance that is Salvador Dalí. Born and raised in Figueres, located near the French border, Dalí has left his mark on his hometown with what is the world’s largest surrealist object. Visit Figueres and learn more about Dalí and the symbolism in his work.

Don’t miss: The Dalí Theatre and Museum and Dalí’s house in Portlligat which is now a museum.

Mae West display at Dalí Theatre and Museum

8. Costa Brava has got Game of Thrones tours

Visiting Game of Thrones locations in Girona’s Jewish Quarter

When in Girona, geek out and take a Game of Thrones tour ! Seven episodes of the wildly successful series were filmed here on location as part of season 6. Now you can visit each of the locations in a guided tour that offers the perfect mix of Girona history while showing you each of the locations used in the series.

If you can’t recall the particular Game of Thrones scene, the guide will even pull it up on an iPad to remind you.

Don’t miss: The Jewish Quarter in Girona, numerous scenes were shot here.

9. Costa Brava is a hub for water sports

Kayaking in Lloret de Mar

There is no limit to the water sports on offer in Costa Brava. Choose from stand-up paddle boarding, snorkelling, diving, flyboarding, windsurfing, kayaking, and, of course, jet-skiing.

Snorkelling in Lloret de Mar

10. Costa Brava has world-class golf courses

Costa Brava has over ten golf courses located amongst beautiful coastal and mountain scenery. Open to players of all levels all year round, nine of these golf courses are fully decked out with world-class facilities.

11. Costa Brava has beautiful Mountains

Amazing landscape of Alta Garrotxa in Catalonia

Costa Brava’s beauty extends inland and includes mountains! Yup, Costa Brava really does have it all.

Take a trip to the foothills of the Pyrenees and either go on a hike or hire an electric bike to help you explore even more of the stunning landscape. From walking amongst the beech forest at Fageda d’en to the staring up at towering peaks reaching 3,000 metres high before rolling into the quiet valleys of Cerdanya or Camprodon, the list of things to see here is limitless.

If you’re visiting in the cooler months, head to top ski resorts including Vallter 2000, Vall de Núria, La Molina and Masella.

Also to be explored is the Natural Park of the Garrotxa Volcanic Zone, an area brimming with just under 40 volcanoes draped in greenery. While you’re here, pay a visit to Santa Pau.

Don’t miss: Oix and Beget, two picturesque high-mountain towns.

12. Costa Brava has beautiful botanical gardens

Seaview from Santa Clotilde Gardens

Spend a lazy afternoon wandering around any one of the four beautifully landscaped gardens dotted along the Costa Brava coast.

Cap Roig Gardens is home to a mix of local plant species from the Mediterranean region alongside trees and plants from the other continents. During July and August and Costa Brava Jazz Festival is held here.

Located in Blanes, Marimurtra Botanical Garden is set on the cliffs of Sant Joan mount. Built in 1921 by the German scientist, Karl Faust, the gardens became one of the most important biological stations in the Mediterranean.

Also in Blanes is Pinya de Rosa Botanical Garden , where you’ll find tropical plants that have adapted to the Mediterranean climate such as as cacti, opuntias and aloes.

Don’t miss: Santa Clotilde Gardens ( Jardines de Santa Clotilde ). Located in Lloret de Mar on top of a cliff with impressive views, this botanical garden features several marble sculptures, a mermaid staircase and the only staircase in Europe that is entirely covered in ivy. This place is stunning!

13. Costa Brava has human towers

Human towers are a Catalan tradition

See the impressive tradition of human towers which originated in Catalonia and have become a symbol of the region. Called ‘castells’ in Catalan, human towers were declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Historians believe that the first castells appeared in 1902 is the in the southern Catalan town of Valls.

Where to see Human Towers: Human Towers are usually held during festivals and celebrations such as National Day of Catalonia. Girona city’s main festival is Sant Narcís Fair and Festival which host the “diada castellera” (day of human towers).

14. Costa Brava is family-friendly

Costa Brava is a very family friendly destination which makes it a great choice for your next holiday destination.

If mum and dad want time to relax, you can pop your little ones into any of the Kids’ Club’s which usually run through the months of July and August. These clubs provide an enclosed outdoor facility where qualified adults organise fun seaside activities for children of all ages. You’ll find Kid’s Clubs in places including Blanes, and Platja Gran in L’Estartit.

Costa Brava doesn’t just have one, but several water parks that cater to the whole family.  Located near the beach and near the resorts are Aquabrava in Roses and Aquadiver , in Platja d’Aro

Don’t miss: Water World in Lloret de Mar. This is the best waterpark on the Spanish east coast and about the biggest in Europe! It’s got everything from water slides, to wave pools, to hot tubs. Don’t miss the 40-metre high slide! Click her for more details about Water World .

15. Costa Brava has stunning hotels

View from hotel room balcony

Costa Brava is home to some incredibly beautiful hotels. I stayed at Premier Gran Hotel Reymar and Spa which sits on a hilltop offering gorgeous views from your room. They have an outdoor pool, two restaurants, free Wi-Fi, and spacious rooms with a balcony.

Where to stay in Costa Brava: Premier Gran Hotel Reymar

16. The Sunrises in Costa Brava are gorgeous

Sunrise over Tossa de Mar

What could be better than starting off your day with a pink sky like this? You might not be a morning person, but I recommend dedicating at least one morning to getting up early and enjoying views like this.

17. Sunsets in Costa Brava are stunning

Watching the sunset is equally captivating. Since the sun sets to the west and therefore inland, aim to watch it from a high viewpoint such as Sa Palomera in Blanes.

18. Costa Brava is easy to get to

Now more than ever, Costa Brava is super easy to get to. Regular flights from London take no longer than 2 hours to reach Girona Costa Brava Airport.

If you’re in Barcelona it will take you less than an hour and even less from to the French border.

Getting to Costa Brava by plane: Girona airport is located at the heart of the Costa Brava, making it really easy to reach beach resorts. From the airport, Girona is 17 km, Lloret de Mar is 31 km and Tossa de Mar is 42 km.

If you land in Barcelona, you’ll be 93 km from Lloret de Mar, 104 km from Tossa de Mar, and 117 km from Girona.

Getting to Costa Brava by car: For more freedom, I recommend renting a car here to get around the Costa Brava. Take the Autovia del Mediterraneo (A-7) highway which connects resort towns like Lloret de Mar or Tossa de Mar.  If you decide on renting a car, do this before you travel to avoid inflated airport prices. Compare the best car rental prices here.

19. The time is now!

Getting to Costa Brava is cheap! Even half-way into the summer season, I can still find return tickets to Girona for £69 (72USD) from London so there’s really no excuse not to go.

As you’ve seen here, the Costa Brava has a lot to offer every kind of holiday seeker. Spend a few days relaxing at the beach, see Dali’s incredible theatre museum, wander around charming Medieval towns and hike the foothills of the Pyrenees.

So, what are you waiting for?

Start planning your trip to Costa Brava!

Check flights to Costa Brava here and get my full 5-day Costa Brava itinerary here.

Heading to Catalonia? Get my free Catalan Travel Phrase guide here .

Got more time? Take a day trip!

Got more time? Here are some more exciting things to do in Costa Brava.

• Girona – Game of Thrones 90-minute Walking Tour
• Girona – Roman History Walking Tour
• Girona- Small-Group Walking Tour
• Girona: 3-Hour Gastronomic Tour
• Canyoning at La Riera d’Osor Gorge near Girona
• Family canyoning in Sant Privat d’en Bas in Garrotxa
• La Garrotxa Volcanoes Half-Day Hot Air Balloon Flight
• Montgrí Castle 4-Hour Excursion from Girona
• Montseny Natural Park 5-Hour Excursion from Girona
• From Roses: Catamaran Cruise to Cap de Creus
• From Roses: Catamaran Cruise to Cadaqués
• Hot air balloon flights in Emporda, Girona
• Go Scuba diving in l’Estartit, Costa Brava
• Jet Pack Lesson in l’Estartit, Costa Brava
• SSI Scuba Diver course in Costa Brava
• Snorkeling tour in l’Estartit, Costa Brava
• Coastal Via Ferrata at Cala del Moli on the Costa Brava
• Hot spring canyon of Thuès-Entre-Valls
• Highest Bungee Jump Spain (70m) near Barcelona
• Via Ferrata in ‘Les Baumes Corcades’ near Barcelona

I hope my Costa Brava itinerary has helped you narrow down what to do and see so you can experience a little bit of everything. Whether you’re based in France or in Barcelona , many of these places can be visited on a day trip, however, I highly recommend basing yourself in Tossa de Mar and venture out to the surrounding areas. Having a hire car will allow you the flexibility to rearrange things and linger a little longer in places that you enjoy most. Compare the best car rental prices here.

If you have questions about my rather epic Costa Brava itinerary, please reach out!

A big thank you to Jet2.com for taking me to Costa Brava and to the Costa Brava Tourism Board for sponsoring this trip.

Don’t miss my other Spain guides

• 36 Exceptional Things to do in Gran Canaria, Spain (Canary Islands)
• Where to Stay in Gran Canaria, Spain (The BEST Hotels)
• 19 Absolute Best Things to Do in Bilbao, Spain
• 13 Free things to do in Barcelona, Spain
• 23 Beautiful Must-See Places in Madrid, Spain
• Costa Brava – Get my Ultimate 5-Day Costa Brava Itinerary
• 19 Absolute Best Things to do in San Sebástian, Spain’s Basque Country

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The best of Costa Brava – the ultimate guide

Costa Brava is a stunning region in Catalonia that extends from the Mediterranean coast to the majestic Pyrenees, which form a natural border with France. Costa Brava loosely translates as ‘wild coast’, a reference to the rocky coastline with its spectacular cliffs and countless coves, a favourite haunt for pirates in the 17th century. Famous for its beaches and sunshine, Costa Brava is a treasure trove of historic, cultural and gastronomic delights! A Costa Brava road trip is the best way to explore the region at your own leisure – mix up beach time with a wander through medieval towns, and visits to cultural attractions with hikes along the coast or in the mountains. In between, you’ll feast on some of the best food and wines that Spain has to offer! Here’s my guide to the best places to visit in Costa Brava.

This Costa Brava guide contains links to three services I often use myself and can recommend: Skyscanner (flights), Booking.com (hotel bookings), Rentalcars.com (car hire) and GetYourGuide (easy-to-book tours). If you make a booking via one of these services, I will receive a small commission (at no extra cost to you). These commissions help me to maintain my blog and share more travel experiences with you.

The ultimate guide to the Best of Costa Brava

I’ve visited Costa Brava several times and explored the region quite extensively. Based on these trips, I’ve compiled this guide featuring the best places to visit on a road trip in Costa Brava including my recommendations for hotels and restaurants. You can do this in 1-2 weeks but I suggest taking your time to enjoy these places. I’ve also included a suggested 15-day ‘ Best of Costa Brava ‘ self-drive itinerary below.

The line in the map denotes the sequence of the places described in this guide: starting in Girona, then the coast (south to north) before moving inland towards the Pyrenees. You can pick up a rental car at Barcelona Airport or in Girona. Find flights to Barcelona with KLM.

Girona is less than a two-hour drive from Barcelona. Often overlooked by tourists, Girona is a gorgeous city located smack in the middle of the confluence of four rivers. As a consequence of its strategic location, Girona was occupied at different times in its history by the Romans, Visigoths, Moors and the French. Its medieval core is still intact, as are large parts of its medieval city walls. Fans of the Game of Thrones series shouldn’t miss Girona!

The highlights in Girona include walking its medieval walls, exploring the old Jewish Quarter and visiting the magnificent Cathedral . Read about things to see in Girona and walking the medieval walls of Girona .

Search for accommodations in Girona.

In the city centre, grab a meal at Le Bistrot , a popular restaurant that serves traditional Catalan fare. In addition, scenes from the Game of Thrones were filmed at the steps right outside the restaurant. There’s a Game of Thrones walking tour which fans can join.

Just outside Girona, you’ll find one of the world’s best restaurants: El Celler de Can Roca. A meal here is a truly extraordinary (not to mention unforgettable) experience! Read about my meal at El Celler de Can Roca .

The coast (south to north)

The Costa Brava coast is what most visitors come for, and rightfully so. You’ll find picturesque towns, nature parks, sandy beaches and secluded coves lapped by the crystal-clear water of the Mediterranean Sea.

Blanes – Lloret de Mar – Tossa de Mar

The stretch between Blanes and Lloret de Mar , with its beaches, hotels, restaurants and bars is a popular holiday spot but look a bit further and you’ll find quieter beaches with golden sands and lush nature reserves. Visit the beautiful Jardins de Santa Clotilde park for a tranquil stroll and gorgeous sea views, hike through the Massis de les Cadiretes nature reserve or go on a leisurely coastal drive along the edges of the reserve (heading north along the coast from Tossa de Mar). Beautiful beaches in the area include Cala Sa Boadella (a section of which is for nudists) and Cala Treumal .

Search for accommodations in/around Lloret de Mar.

Tossa de Mar , with its wide beaches against the backdrop of an impressive castle, is a lovely town to visit. Don’t miss the 12th century Castell de Tossa de Mar with its fortification walls and towers.

Search for accommodations in Tossa de Mar.

Palamós and beyond

Palamós is a bustling fishing town with long beaches, a harbour packed with fishing boats and a yacht marina. A visit to the Fish Museum (Museu de la Pesca) and fish auction at the harbour is a fascinating experience.

The coast northwest of Palamós is full of little coves with gorgeous, secluded beaches backed by cliffs and pine trees. Suggested beaches include La Fosca , Cala s’Alguer , Platja de Castell and Cala Estreta .

Costa Brava coastal trails

The rocky cliffs between these beaches are a hikers paradise! Part of the Cami de Ronda (Costa Brava trails that wind along the coast for about 200 km!), this particular stretch is famous for its stunning sea views and towering cliffs.

Calella de Palafrugell to Begur

One of the most scenic parts of the Costa Brava coast stretches from Calella de Palafrugell and Llafranc , past Tamariu , to Begur . This part of the coast consists of beautiful beaches, rocky inlets, pine-covered cliffs and picturesque towns and villages. The Cami de Ronda continues along this stretch of the coast.

There’s a multitude of charming hotels and excellent restaurants along the coast. My favourite hotels in this area, which also have outstanding restaurants, are Sant Roc (Calella de Palafrugell), Casamar (Llafranc), El Far (Llafranc) and Aigua Blava (near Begur).

Search for accommodations in Calella de Palafrugell or Llafranc .

Begur is a hillside town overlooked by a 16th century castle. There’s a lovely square packed with terraces, and cobblestone alleys with a good choice of restaurants and cafés, some tucked away in beautiful courtyards.

Search for accommodations in Begur.

From Begur, take the road to Sa Tuna , a hamlet on the coast with a small beach. The road winds through quiet neighbourhoods and thick forests, and offers beautiful vistas of the rugged coast. Check out the fabulous Cap Sa Sal Hotel for a romantic stay or a top-notch meal.

Baix Empordá

Close to this part of the coast, you’ll find the agricultural Baix Empordá region; a colourful patchwork of fields, fruit orchards and beautiful medieval villages.

Peratallada

Peratallada is a fortified medieval town that’s definitely worth a visit. The town, with its 11th century castle (now home to an amazing luxury hotel ), 13th century Romanesque church, gorgeous cobblestone streets and quaint squares, is a popular place for day-trippers who come here to soak up the medieval atmosphere but stick around in the evenings for a romantic dinner at one of the numerous restaurants. I can recommend Restaurante Candelaria ! Peratallada also makes for a good base from which to explore the Baix Empordá. Search for accommodations in Peratallada.

For a dose of indulgence, I can recommend the Mas de Torrent Hotel and Spa , which is situated a short drive away from Peratallada. The hotel also has an excellent restaurant! Read about my stay at Mas de Torrent .

Pals is one of the most impressive medieval towns in Costa Brava. Situated in the Baix Empordá region, a short distance from Begur, Pals’ main attraction is its beautifully restored medieval quarter. Pals is also home to Vicus , a restaurant where I’ve had some truly memorable meals!

Search for accommodations in Pals.

Púbol is another attractive town to visit. The main attraction is the Castell Gala Salvador Dalí , a castle that the great painter bought for his wife, Gala. The castle forms one of the three Dalí museums in Costa Brava (known as the ‘Dalí Triangle’ and also includes the Dalí Theatre Museum in Figueres and Casa Dalí in Port Lligat).

Monells lies just east of Púbol and is another atmospheric medieval village that’s worth visiting, if only to explore its arched streets and arcades.

If you fancy staying in a castle, look up Castell d’Empordà near Púbol, a beautifully-restored castle that overlooks the Empordà plains. Its restaurant, Drac , is another terrific dining option I can highly recommend!

Also nearby is the village of Colomers , where hot-air balloon flights over Costa Brava are operated from. It’s a wonderful experience that I highly recommend. You can make a booking here .

Begur to Roses

North of Begur, the hills make way for broad plains and long stretches of sandy beaches. There are also several golf resorts here such as the Empordà Golf Club and La Costa Golf Beach Resort . Nature lovers will enjoy Aiguamolls del Baix Empordà , a nature reserve with wetlands that’s great for bird-watching, and beaches with a stunning view of the jagged tops of the Illes Medes islands.

Illes Medes

Illes Medes is a marine reserve consisting of 7 rocky islets. There’s abundant marine life to be seen, which visitors can enjoy on a snorkelling or submarine trip. The Illes Medes boat trips depart from the L’Escartit harbour.

Further north, you’ll find another nature reserve worth visiting for its coastal cliffs and beautiful sea views: Parc Natural del Montgri . Near the town of L’Escala, history lovers will enjoy the Museu d’Arqueologia de Catalunya – Empúries (Catalan Archeological Museum Empúries) where ancient Greek and Roman ruins have been excavated.

At the sweeping Gulf of Roses, you’ll find, along its seemingly endless beaches, a myriad of camping grounds and another beautiful nature reserve: Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà . The protected wetlands in this park are famous for its bird-watching opportunities. 

In nearby Empuriabrava are two attractions for those who love to ‘fly’: the Windoor Realfly experience and Skydive Empuriabrava ! I’ve experienced both and I’ll never forget my Costa Brava skydive !

Castelló d’Empúries

Also worth a visit is the little town of Castelló d’Empúries , with its medieval centre. Stroll around its atmospheric streets and visit the impressive Basilica of Santa Maria. Every year, the town hosts the Terra de Trobadors medieval festival which attracts medieval enthusiasts from around the world.

At the top of the Gulf of Roses is the town of Roses , a lively town with a long beach boulevard lined by hotels and restaurants. There are various historical sites which can be visited such as the Citadel and the Trinity Castle . Head up to Puig Rom (a reasonable hike) to visit several other archeological sites as well as to enjoy the stunning views of the gulf.

From Roses, the Canyelles road curls its way along the coast past cliffs, coves and smaller beaches. There are various upscale hotels here such as Hotel Vistabella and A lmadraba Park Hotel which offer beautiful views of the gulf.

Search for accommodations in Roses.

Cap de Creus

Northwest of Roses, the Cap de Creus peninsula beckons. A rocky, mountainous region of wind-swept slopes covered by thick gorse, quaint coastal villages, and crystal-clear coves, Cap de Creus is perfect for a leisurely drive or lengthy hikes. Read more about places to visit in Cap de Creus .

Search for accommodations in Cap de Creus.

The charming fishing village of Cadaqués , with its whitewashed houses and gorgeous harbour, is famed as being a favourite haunt for artists and writers, and shouldn’t be missed. It also makes for a great base from which to explore the rest of the peninsula.

In Cadaqués, drop by at Can Rafa for a great meal. The restaurant is owned by the Martín Faíxo family who also own Mas Perafita , a gorgeous winery/B&B in the hills of Cap de Creus.

Port Lligat

Continue further to Port Lligat to visit Casa Dalí , the former residence of the great artist Salvador Dalí – this is a wondrous experience you shouldn’t miss.

Another famous attraction in the area is the romanesque abbey of Sant Pere de Rodes near the town of Port de la Selva .

Inland to Figueres

From Cap de Creus, head west towards Figueres, the largest town in the area. Just off the N260 road is another gorgeous golf resort: Hotel Peralada Wine Spa and Golf . The village of Peralada , with its 13th century castle (open to visitors), makes for an interesting stop for its impressive armoury and library.

Figueres , the birthplace of Salvador Dalí, is a popular touristic town primarily due to the Dalí Theatre Museum , which the great artist designed himself. I highly recommend a visit to this fascinating museum and the adjacent Jewels Collection. For lunch, restaurants I recommend include Restaurante Duran (a classic in Figueres frequented by Dalí himself) and El Lloc Cafe Bistrot.

La Garrotxa to the Girona Pyrenees

The Pyrenees mountain range forms a natural border with France, rising to great heights further inland. This region is dotted with picturesque medieval towns, forests, low hills and ancient volcanoes that gradually make way for the mighty snow-capped peaks of the Girona Pyrenees.

Besalú is a stunning medieval town in the hills of the Garrotxa region. The first thing that will grab your attention as you approach the town is the magnificent 12th century Romanesque bridge over the Fluviá river. The bridge leads visitors into the town, with its arcaded streets, cobblestone alleys and squares.

There’s a wonderful array of shops selling local produce and handicraft. Other historic monuments in the town include the 11th century Sant Pere church and 12th century Jewish bath (mikveh).

Castellfollit de la Roca

West of Besalú, on the A26 road to the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone , you’ll pass the medieval village of Castellfollit de la Roca . Spectacularly perched on a basalt cliff that was formed by lava flows, this pretty village makes for a great photo stop.

La Garrotxa volcanic zone

The La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone is a beautiful, forested area with 40 volcanic cones and ancient lava flows. You can hike up to the crater rim and into the crater but don’t expect a typical volcano (like Vesuvius or Etna). Instead, along the well-marked trails, you’ll find lush vegetation, different coloured rock surfaces and gorgeous views (don’t miss the viewpoint at Mirador Puig Rodó). The town of Olot is a good base from which to explore the area. I recommend staying at one of the converted farmhouses or cottages in the hills around Olot such as Casa Rural Mas Garganta . I also recommend going on a hot-air balloon flight over the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone.

Search for accommodations in La Garrotxa.

Santa Pau is another medieval village in the Garrotxa region that I absolutely love. Located near the La Garrotxa volcanoes, Santa Pau is tiny but boasts gorgeous porticoes, alleys and arcades as well as a 15th century Gothic church. Moreover, this wonderfully atmospheric village is home to another of my favourite restaurants in Costa Brava: Cal Sastre .

Ripoll lies to the west of the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone and is famous for its magnificent Benedictine monastery, a true Romanesque gem. The Monastery of Santa María de Ripoll , founded around the 9th century, is considered to be one of the most important monastic centres in Catalonia.

For those interested in more Romanesque art, continue to Sant Joan de les Abadesses , home to the Monastery of Sant Joan de les Abadesses (9th century), approximately 10km from Ripoll. The village, located on the banks of the River Ter, also has a gorgeous medieval bridge (in Gothic style) that’s worth a photo stop.

Girona Pyrenees

From Ripoll, follow the N260 road northwards. You’ll soon be surrounded by the breathtaking mountain landscapes of the Girona Pyrenees. This mountain region, with its glistening peaks, awe-inspiring granite surfaces, serene valleys and shimmering lakes, is popular in the winter for its skiing opportunities, and hiking in the summer months.

Search for accommodations in the Girona Pyrenees.

There are many spots to enjoy the magnificent mountain scenery such as the Cerdanya and Camprodon valleys, and the simply magical Vall de Núria . This area has the most popular ski resorts in Catalonia such as La Molina and Masella . In the summer, it’s a mecca for hikers!

If you’re accustomed to winding roads, continue past Camprodon to the village of Beget . Often listed as one of the prettiest villages in Catalonia, Beget is a charming medieval village, and its location, tucked in a valley surrounded by thick vegetation, is gorgeous.

Vall de Núria

The Vall de Núria (Valley of Núria) is a stunning valley almost completely enclosed by imposing mountains, some almost 3,000m high. Popular as a getaway for nature enthusiasts, it also attracts pilgrims who come to visit the Shrine of Núria . Cars are not permitted in the valley. Instead, visitors take the scenic 12.5km-long Vall de Núria Rack Railway that connects Vall de Núria with Ribes de Freser and Queralbs. Check the Vall de Núria website for more info.

Further to the west, the town of Puigcerdà lies just a few kilometers from the border with France and is mainly used as a base for a myriad of mountain activities. This vibrant town has many restaurants, cafés and shops (centred around Plaza de Santa Maria), and a photogenic lake. The rooftop of the Bell tower offers beautiful views of the town and the mountains.

Search for accommodations in Puigcerdà.

Cross the border into France from Puigcerdà, drive a further 1.5 kms, and you’ll find yourself back in Spain, in the little Catalan enclave of Llívia ! Completely surrounded by France, Llívia is a charming medieval town with slate-roofed houses that’s great for a stroll and a meal at one of its excellent restaurants.

How to get to Costa Brava

Costa Brava lies in the northeast corner of Spain. The capital, Girona, is connected by trains from Barcelona (Estació Sants) and France (via Figueres). The Girona-Costa Brava Airport has connections with major cities in Europe (primarily operated by holiday and low-cost airlines). The closest international hub airport is Barcelona. From Barcelona Airport, it’s less than a two-hour drive to Costa Brava. There’s also a scheduled bus service from the airport to Blanes.

15-day ‘Best of Costa Brava’ self-drive itinerary

This 14 night/15 day self-drive itinerary takes you past the best places in Costa Brava as described above. If you’re flying into Barcelona or Girona, I recommend picking up a rental car upon arrival. Planning to visit Barcelona? Read my top ten things to do in Barcelona post.

You can start Your Costa Brava  trip on the coast and follow the entire itinerary through to Girona or concentrate on 1-2 areas, depending on your interests or the length of your stay. I’ve included a suggested length of stay per place/area. The itinerary is as follows:

4 nights: Costa Brava coast . From Lloret de Mar, continue along the coast to your accommodation for 4 nights. Spend some time at the beach and the coastal towns, walk along the Cami de Ronda and explore the medieval villages of Baix Empordá. Suggested base: Llafranc, Calella de Palafrugell or inland in/around Pals or Peratallada.

2 nights: Cap de Creus . Continue up the coast past Roses to Cap de Creus. Suggested base: in/around Roses or Cadaqués. Wander around Cadaqués, hike in the hills, and visit Casa Dalí in Port Lligat and the Sant Pere de Rodes abbey.

3 nights: La Garrotxa . From Cap de Creus, continue to Figueres (visit the Dalí Theatre Museum) and on to La Garrotxa. Explore the medieval towns and hike in the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone. Go on a day trip to Camprodon and Beget. Suggested base: Besalú, in/around Olot or Santa Pau.

3 nights: Girona Pyrenees . Head further into the Pyrenees, stopping at the Santa Maria de Ripoll monastery. Take the rack railway to Vall de Núria. Wander around Puigcerdà and have lunch in Llívia. Suggested base: in/around Ribes de Freser and/or Puigcerdà.

2 nights: Girona . Explore the medieval centre, walk along the old city walls and visit the Cathedral.

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More information on costa brava.

Visit the website of Costa Brava Girona Tourism for more information.

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18 Responses

Very detailed post on Costa Brava. I bookmarked your website because I enjoy detailed writing and descriptive photographs. Girona, at the the confluence of four rivers and past multicultural habitations looks like an interesting city to visit.

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Looks like we missed a lot of this region when we drove through, but I LOVED Cadaques and the gorgeous town and beaches there. Thanks for all the info. We did a much quicker tour through the region, but still enjoyed what we did get to see.

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Costa Brava

Living the Mediterranean

El Port de la Selva

Castell d'Aro

Castelló d'Empuries

Sant Feliu de Guíxols

Sant Pere Pescador

Torroella de Montgri

Tossa de Mar

Lloret de Mar

Places not to be missed

Salvador Dalí's house in Port Lligat

The Port Lligat House-Museum is formed by a series of fishermen's…

Dalí Theatre-Museum

This museum evokes the life and work of Salvador Dalí, a genius…

Greek ruins of Empuries

Ampurias is the most important Greek archaeological site to be…

San Juan de la Abadesas Monastery

Of Benedictine origin.…

Santa María Monastery in Ripoll

The Benedictine monastery in Ripoll was founded by Count Wilfred…

La Garrotxa Volcanic Area Nature Reserve

It has a rich and varied vegetation with a predominance of holm…

Beach: Platja de Lloret

Town beach that has all the services and facilities of this beach…

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La Garrotxa, land of volcanoes

A walk around Girona, the city that conquered Game of Thrones

A road trip along Spain’s east coast

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• DESTINATIONS
• EXPERIENCES

Costa Brava Travel Guide: How to Experience this Gorgeous Coastline

I’m Gabriele and welcome to my Costa Brava travel guide! I was born in Lithuania and grew up in Germany. I moved to Spain eight years ago to study for a semester at the university in Leon. During the semester, I learned Spanish and got to experience the culture. I was supposed to stay for six months but I liked it so much that I extended my stay for another six months. Later, I moved to Madrid to do an internship. I kept extending my stay until I was able to find a job in Madrid, so I decided to stay long-term.

There are so many things I love about living in Spain, I am sure I could write a book about it! One of the things I love the most is the food and tapas culture. Spanish food is amazing and once I learned about its variety depending on the region, it became one of my greatest passions to try everything. I also love how spontaneous the people are, and how easy it is to go out and meet other people. And of course, the sunny weather helps!

Exploring Spain & Falling in Love with it All

I spent my first year in Spain in Leon. Since I was only planning to stay for six months, I tried to travel as much as I could! I traveled along Galicia and Pais Basco, which are incredible places. But I also explored the south. Once I moved to Spain, I learned so much about how different the south is compared to the north. There is so much difference in culture, weather and food. So, everywhere you go it feels like you are visiting a new country!

Something I would definitely recommend for traveling around Spain is to leave the obvious tourist destinations like Madrid and Barcelona. Spain is an extremely diverse country that has so much to offer! If I had to pick a favorite destination in the country, I would say Mallorca and Menorca (or the Balearic Islands in general) are must-see places for a beach holiday. Granada is the perfect place to visit to experience Spain’s tapas culture and to visit the Alhambra, one of Spain’s most incredible UNESCO sites.

Since my love for Spain started in the north, it will always have a special place in my heart. You should absolutely visit Leon for its tapas. Plus, it’s en route to the Camino de Santiago, a network of pilgrimages, another popular activity in Spain. A very special place that I have to mention here is Cadiz, an ancient port city in Andalusia that is surrounded by the sea. The list could go on and on! Spain has so much to offer for whatever you are in the mood for. If you do not like the typical beach holiday, you can even go skiing outside of Granada. Many people don’t know that!

There are still some places I have not visited yet but I would love to go. I think I still need a trip to Andalusia to visit Tarifa and Marbella. I have been told that the beaches are stunning and the food is amazing. Then, I would love to visit Logroño. That area of Spain is famous for its Rioja wine. There, you can visit wineries, do tours or go to the wine festival in autumn.

A Wonderful 10-Day Trip Along Costa Brava

My partner and I decided to visit Costa Brava last year in August. It seemed like the perfect place to visit from Barcelona, as you can reach it easily if you rent a car. We were there for 10 days in total and had a great time! Half the time we just enjoyed relaxing at the crystal-clear beaches, and the other half we spent exploring the smaller villages of the coastal area.

We stayed in Platja d’Aro and Castello d’Empuries. From there we visited a couple of towns including Blanes, Tossa del Mar, Palafrugell, Begur, Pals and Cadaques. I know it sounds like a lot of places in 10 days, but those are all small beach villages that are very close to each other. So you can spend the day at one beach and then have dinner in another town close by.

My Favorite Place in Costa Brava: Cadaques

One of my favorite places I visited in Costa Brava, and in all of Spain, is Cadaques . It’s a small fishing village that is famous for its white houses, which are in contrast to the aquamarine sea water. It’s gorgeous! You can only reach it by car (there might be a way to go with public transport but it wouldn’t be comfortable) but it is so worth it! The views of the white houses next to the blue water make you feel like you are living in a fairytale!

Cadaques is also famous for the Spanish painter Dali who lived here before he died. You can visit his house, which is now a museum and one of the must-do activities in Cadaques. Most of the house is still the same as it was when he was living there. Several paintings of Dali show Cadaques and once you visit it, you will understand why. The city is the definition of picturesque! And Dali is not the only one who fell in love with it.

Pablo Picasso, Thomas Mann and even Albert Einstein have lived in this special town. There are different stories about Cadaques attracting artists from all over the world. Cadaques will always be special to me and my boyfriend because the first time we ever visited it was during the pandemic. So the city was completely empty, just us and a couple of locals. It will be a bit more crowded now but the city is still absolutely charming!

Costa Brava Travel Itinerary from Barcelona

If you are visiting Costa Brava from Barcelona, your first destination should be Begur with a stop in Blanes along the way. There is a beautiful botanical garden with views of the surrounding beaches in Begur. We went in summer, and the whole place was full of flowers and exotic blossoms.

My personal highlight of our Costa Brava trip though was when my partner and I rented a small motorboat in Blanes, and explored the bays that you can only visit by boat (there are many beaches and bays that you can only reach via boat). By the way, you do not need a boat license for that. Check out ericboatsblanes.com for more info. We spent the whole day snorkeling, looking at the beautiful bays and having a picnic on the boat. It was special!

Then, I would really recommend visiting towns such as Tossa del Mar and Cadaques. Both are great one-day trip destinations in Costa Brava and you will always have the beach close by. So, you can spend the day at the beach and explore the cities afterwards. Tossa del Mar is famous for its beautiful castle and romantic small streets, and we had an amazing time there!

My top tip for a restaurant in Costa Brava: Restaurant Cap de Creus . Why is it so special? First of all, it’s located inside the Cap de Creus Natural Park, where only a limited number of cars are allowed to enter every day. Make sure to reserve in advance and check the option to park your car.

Otherwise, you will have to get there by public transport which will be a tough thing to do. The restaurant is right next to a huge cliff, next to a big lighthouse, with different bays surrounding it from both sides. We went to Restaurant Cap de Creus during sunset and the views were magical! My suggestion would be to bring a jacket as it does get very windy up there!

For accommodation in Costa Brava, I recommend Palau Macelli in Castello d’Empuries. It’s a beautiful hotel located next to the Basilica, an old convent in the town of Empuries. It’s the perfect place to stay if you are looking for quiet time and a hotel with a spa. We enjoyed the spa so much that this place is on our list to visit again this year. The garden behind the hotel is the ideal spot to enjoy an afternoon drink while watching the sun go down over the fields of Empuries. This was by far our favorite stay in Costa Brava!

How to Best Get Around Costa Brava

You should rent a car to explore all that Costa Brava has to offer. When I did my research, I saw that there are buses available that connect different cities but you will have a hard time catching buses. Especially, if you are carrying towels and other beach necessities. I would recommend renting a car in Barcelona and going to Costa Brava from there. Something that I have to mention is that Costa Brava is a very popular destination during the summer months. We did have trouble finding parking spots during our vacation, which was the only real downside to renting a car.

Need to Know Before You Go

August is the peak of the high season in Costa Brava. Due to my partner’s work, we were only able to go in August. If you are more flexible, try to avoid August if possible. You will still have a great time, but it’s just more crowded in general and you might have to reserve your bucket list restaurants in advance. I think a great time to visit would be May-June or September-October. During that time, there won’t be as many people visiting Costa Brava and the temperatures are still perfect for a beach holiday. Another benefit is that hotels and rental cars might be a bit cheaper.

Another thing to remember is to properly prepare for the sun and heat during summer. I have red hair and am pale. I was constantly reapplying sunscreen, and covering myself with a hat and a linen blouse. Not only does it get hot during summer, the weather is very humid as well. My suitcase was full of linen shirts and dresses. Those were lifesavers in the humid heat!

If you are going to Costa Brava during the high season and have a restaurant that you want to visit, be sure to reserve it in advance. I was told that it wouldn’t be an issue but due to the amount of people visiting during the high season, some of my bucket list restaurants were booked out days in advance. That is something you should keep in mind when visiting!

BY GABRIELE PLETAITE IG: @THELITHUANIANABROAD THELITHUANIANABROAD.COM

Author:  Gabriele Pletaite

Gabriele is a Lithuanian girl living in Spain. On her travel blog - thelithuanianabroad.com - she writes about her life in Spain, and popular travel destinations on the Spanish mainland and islands.

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• The Costa Brava
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Our guide to The Costa Brava gives you expert recommendations on the best attractions, restaurants

Explore The Costa Brava

Performing Arts 1

Restaurants 13

Elsewhere In The Costa Brava

Begur and around.

From Begur, go east through the calas or take the inland route past the rose-color stone houses and ramparts of the restored medieval town of...

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The Costa Brava (Wild Coast) begins at Blanes with five different beaches, running from Punta Santa Anna on the far side of the port—a tiny...

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Cadaques and Around

Spain's easternmost town, Cadaqués, still has the whitewashed charm that transformed this fishing village into an international artists' haunt in the early 20th century. Salvador...

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Calella de Palafrugell and Around

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S'Agaro

S'Agaró is an elegant gated community on a rocky point at the north end of the cove. The 30-minute walk along the sea wall from...

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Sant Feliu de Guixols

The little fishing port of Sant Feliu de Guixols is set on a small bay; Moderniste mansions line the seafront promenade, recalling a time when...

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48 hours on . . . the Costa Brava, an insider guide to Spain's wild coast

An untamed, unspoilt coast with a tasteful edge

The name says it all. Meaning 'wild coast' in Spanish, the Costa Brava is one of Europe's most romantic, unspoilt stretches of coast. Where else, less than a two-hour flight from Britain, can you explore rugged pink clifftops with the teal-coloured Mediterranean glittering below, framed by grand arabesquing pines? It's a scene reminiscent of France’s Côte d’Azur, of course, but with independent hotels and exceptional food (including no fewer than 17 Michelin-starred restaurants) – generally at a fraction of the Côte d’Azur's prices. 

Gloriously wild in parts and tastefully manicured in others, the Costa Brava also has some of the finest Blue Flag beaches in Europe: ranging from broad, sandy stretches to elegant horseshoe bays and secluded smugglers’ coves. Beyond that there are spectacular coastal walks and world-class golf courses – as well as diving, snorkelling and sailing, three Salvador Dalí museums, and outstanding Greco/Roman ruins.

Eddi Fiegel, our resident expert, offers her top tips on the hottest places to eat and stay and the best things to do this season.

A new 3D tour at the Greco-Roman ruins of the Empúries at The Archaeological Museum of Catalonia (Carrer de Puig i Cadafalch; 00 34 972 77 76) brings L'Escala's Roman Forum to life in 3D through a virtual reality headset.

•  The best things to do on the Costa Brava

Terra Restaurant   at Hotel Alàbriga (Carretera de Sant Pol, 633, 17220 Sant Feliu de Guíxols; 00 34 872 200 600) has recently been awarded a Michelin star and is very much the hot dining ticket around these parts. Try the Mallorcan-style cacciucco (fish stew), or the lamb loin with black garlic-palo sauce and lemon Beluga lentil salad.

•  The best restaurants on the Costa Brava

Guests at the five-star Hotel Camiral (Carretera N-II, Km. 701, 17455, Caldes de Malavella; 00 34 972 18 10 20) near Girona can now take part in guided foraging walks or 'Nature Walks' in the hotel’s 300-acre grounds. The wild plants, herbs and flowers you find are then cooked up into delectable dishes.

• The best hotels on the Costa Brava

After breakfast, head into Girona’s Old Town. Crane your neck as you ogle the vaulted ceiling in the vast Gothic Cathedral (Plaça de la Catedral; 00 34 972 427 189) before exploring the Call – one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in Western Europe. Visit the Jewish Museum (Carrer de la Força, 8; 00 34 972 216 761) and the Arab Baths (Carrer Ferran el Catòlic; 00 34 972190797), then explore the independent shops and boutiques in the narrow cobbled lanes.

Take a footbridge across the River Onyar and head to one of the terrace cafés lining the Plaça de la Independència  for a quick coffee before setting out on the road. Try Café Royal (00 34 972 21 74 59) for a  cortado  – the Spanish equivalent of a macchiato, i.e. espresso with a shot of frothy hot milk.

If you want to really explore the Costa Brava’s best nooks and crannies, a car is the best way. Drive about 40 minutes to the bay of Llafranc and the historic Hotel Llafranch ’s restaurant La Plaça (Plaça del Promontori, 2, 17211 Llafranc; 00 34 972 30 02 08). Gaze out to sea on the terrace whilst savouring seafood paella with salty, almost nutty-tasting rice and fresh mussels and prawns.

Turn right onto the seafront promenade Passeig Cipsela, and follow the signs to the Camino de Ronda footpath in the direction of Calella de Palagrugell. The path winds around the pine-clad rocks for about fifteen minutes, but take your time as you’ll want to admire the picturesque coastal views.

Arriving at Calella de Palagrugell, walk down onto Platja de Canadell – a lovely gravelly beach overlooked by pastel-coloured 19th-century villas – then carry on walking to the main seafront promenade. Choose an ice cream from L’Enxaneta ’s (Carrer de Chopitea, 1; 00 34 972 61 47 02) exceptional selection: the coffee and pistachio are particularly good, and children love the Kinder Egg flavour. For sundowners with the best sea view in town, look no further than Can Gelpí   (Carrer de les Voltes, 11; 00 34 972 61 45 72) and try the local hot coffee and rum speciality – cremat .

After changing at your hotel, drive about 15 minutes to the Medieval hilltop village of Begur for dinner at Aiguaclara (Carrer Sant Miquel, 2; 00 34 972 62 29 05) – a restaurant and hotel in a converted 19th-century noblemen’s home. Tuck into contemporary Catalan-influenced dishes like sea bream with onion confit, or roast suckling pig – washed down with a bottle of excellent local Empordà wine. After dinner, if it's a Friday night, join the other diners on the dancefloor as a DJ plays tunes from the Sixties and Seventies.

The morning food market near Palafrugell's  Plaça Nova  is one of the best in the region. You'll rub shoulders with top chefs as you ogle everything from plump tomatoes to fresh seafood, choice cuts of meat, local honeys, spices and dried fruit.

After a browse in the market, stop at the Museu del Suro  –  the Cork Museum (Placeta del Museu del Suro; 00 34 972 30 78 25). The museum explores the fascinating history of the local cork industry, with clever family-friendly exhibits such as dolls dipping in water to show how cork floats.

Walk about five minutes down the road for lunch at Pa i Raim (Carrer de Torres i Jonama, 56; 00 34 972 30 45 72) – a beautifully converted Modernista (Art Nouveau) villa, which serves up fine-dining Catalan dishes at amazingly reasonable prices. Don’t miss the tempura langoustines (served on satay-style skewers) and delicate seared duck liver with caramelised pineapple.

Drive about 20 minutes northeast, to the walled and moated Medieval village of Peratallada . Here you can wander along twisting cobbled streets, past stone buildings laced with creepers and bougainvillea, and up to the castle – which was built between the 11th and 14th centuries. The stone archways are a photographer’s dream. On your way back down, stop for a coffee or the local custard-thick hot chocolate in one of the cafés on the cloistered Plaça de les Voltes, such as Pou Dolç (00 34 972 63 40 15).

Freshen up at your hotel before heading back east to Sa Rascassa (Cala Aiguafreda, 3; 00 34 972 62 28 45), a bijoux restaurant with rooms in the tiny cove of Aiguafreda. Between June and September, they also run a small chiringuito – El Vermut – on the beach. Watch the waves as you sip a glass of local wine or the richly hoppy Catalan beer Voll Damm. Then wander around the corner to Sa Rascassa’s delightful gravelled garden for a light dinner of fresh grilled or baked fish and Mediterranean vegetables with Romesco sauce.

For a post-dinner drink, head back into Begur to La Lluna (Concepció Pi i Tató, 5; 00 34 972 62 20 23) – a converted townhouse with arched stone ceilings. Enjoy one of the heady house cocktails or a G&T, to a soundtrack of jazz, blues and Eurodisco.

• The best nightlife on the Costa Brava

Luxury Living

There’s a sense of hushed luxury as soon as you walk into Mas de Torrent , a five-star country house hotel set in gorgeous countryside. You’re within easy reach of gorgeous Costa Brava beaches and golf courses. Each suite is uniquely decorated – you’ll find a gramophone in one, or a Moorish-style filigreed alcove in another – but all feel spacious and airy. With pretty gardens, a Zen-inducing spa, and a restaurant offering top-notch Catalan fine dining, you’ll want for nothing more.

Doubles from €310 (£272). Afueras de Torrent s/n, 17123 Torrent; 00 34 902 55 03 21

Boutique Bolthole

Hotel Terramar is in prime position on the horseshoe bay of Llafranc – with the Mediterranean about three steps over the road. Sea views from the simple contemporary rooms are wonderful, and you get to fall asleep to the sound of the waves. The hotel has been run by the same family since it opened in 1933, and staff are helpful, friendly and efficient at all times. The restaurant menu features fresh local fish, such as grilled wild sea bass and baked cod with tomato confit. Should you want to venture out, there’s an extensive choice of restaurants and bars on the promenade.

Doubles from €95 (£83). Passeig Cipsela, 1, 17211 Llafranc; 00 34 972 30 02 00

Budget Beauty

Located on a spectacular hillside near the medieval village of Begur, Hostal Sa Barraca feels more like going to stay with a friend's kindly Spanish grandparents than an impersonal hostal or hotel. The delightful, remarkably good-value pension has some of the most stunning sea views on the Costa Brava, which unfolds in front of you on the terrace; you can smell the fresh pine from the woods next door. You’re less than a 10-minute drive from the gorgeous beaches at Aiguablava and Sa Riera. Llafranc, Tamariu, and the expansive sandy beach and medieval village at Pals are all within easy driving distance too.

Doubles from €60 (£54). Carrer de Begur a Aiguablava, 17255 Begur; 00 34 972 62 33 60

•  A complete guide to the best hotels on the Costa Brava

If you fancy bringing back the taste of the Empordà, La Simfonia (Plaça de l’Oli 6, 17004 Girona; 00 34 972 41 12 53) – a wine shop and wine bar in Girona – has a carefully curated selection of local wines, as well as bottles from all over Spain and the world. For an impressively fruity, medium-bodied Empordà red, the Bonfill 2016 from Celler Arché Pagès is a great buy (around €25/£22). Or for a superb dessert wine, the Mas Estela Vino Dulce Garnatxa is beautifully subtle and honeyed (around €40/£35).

Artisan chocolatier, patisserie and high class charcuteria, Pastisseria Serra (Plaça Nova, 2, 17200 Palafrugell; 00 34 972 30 06 40) has exquisitely packaged confections – from slabs of dark chocolate with orange peel, to designer flip flops made entirely from chocolate.

A decent dose of sunshine is reasonably guaranteed throughout most of the year. If you’re not bound by school holidays and can visit during May, June or September, these are brilliant months to enjoy the joint benefits of warm temperatures and lower hotel rates, while avoiding the crowds of July and August.

Having said that, if you’ve set your heart on perfecting a tan in sizzling heat, high summer is the time to choose. If you do come during those peak months, you’ll find the region busy but not over-run, and you can still enjoy relatively secluded beaches without having to knock elbows with half of Europe.

From February to April and October to November the weather is generally pleasant: you might catch springtime electric storms or autumn rains, but these don’t usually last for many days.

Essential Information

Flight time : approximately two hours to Girona or Barcelona

Currency : Euro (€)

Further reading :  en.costabrava.org

Emergency numbers/contacts:  medical, fire and police: 112. Local police: 092

British Consulate in Barcelona:  Avenida Diagonal 477, 13a Planta, 08036 Barcelona (00 34 902 109356 or 00 34 913 342194;  gov.uk )

Local laws and etiquette

When it comes to tipping: about five per cent for taxis and restaurants, €1 (80p) for hotel porters. Bars and cafés don’t normally expect tips unless you’re sitting at an outdoor terrace, where it’s polite to leave €0.30-€0.50 (25-45p).

Keep your passport with you, as some shops will ask to see it if you’re paying by credit card.

If you don’t have one, apply for a European Health Insurance Card so you’re eligible for state medical treatment if you need it.

Eddi Fiegel is an award-winning travel journalist and author, specialising in Spain. She discovered the Costa Brava when she lived in Barcelona and loves few things more than sizzling fried sardines on one of its rugged beaches, a glass of Empordà rosé in hand.

Telegraph Travel's best hotels and holidays on the Costa Brava, tried, tested and recommended by our destination experts.

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