olympus trip 35 light meter repair

How to Fix and Refurbish an Olympus Trip 35

I recently bought a non-working camera that was older than me. Looking around the internet, I found some help on fixing a common issue (stuck aperture blades) and how to apply some nice new skins for a modern look. I set my heart on bringing my Trip back to life and hopefully, this guide will inspire and help others to do the same.

Having picked up a faulty Olympus Trip 35 for £5, it was time to attempt a fix and refurbish to restore the camera to working condition. Top priority has to be working mechanicals but I also prepared to clean and re-skin the camera too. If you wish to undertake the task yourself I would advise the following materials and tools:

• Small screwdrivers
• Stanley/craft knife
• Lighter fluid
• Microfiber cloth
• Cotton ear buds
• Brasso or metal polish
• Washing-up liquid
• Cocktail or lollipop sticks
• Ice-cube tray to hold screws safely
• New skin (http://aki-asahi.com/store/)
• New light seals (http://aki-asahi.com/store/)

Now, on to the tutorial.

Step 1. Firstly, you need to check the meter is working correctly. To be absolutely certain it is, you’ll need to remove the top plate of the camera and check the needle movement. Start by removing the screw in the lefthand side under the wrist strap lug. Two more screws can be found under the rewind crank. To get to these, simply open the back, wedge something like a lollipop stick in to keep it from spinning, and unscrew the crank from the top.

Step 2. With the top off, you should now have access to the meter, or more importantly the meter needle. With no light entering the camera (cover the front of the lens with your hand), the needle will be pushed up against the viewfinder. Now point the lens to some bright light and the needle should swing to the middle. This confirms the meter is working. In that case (as with this particular camera), the fault lies with the aperture blades.

Step 3. The top can now be reassembled but be sure to clean any muck from hard-to-reach areas as you do to make cleaning the camera later a little easier. To get to the aperture blades, start by removing the bottom plate of the camera by unscrewing the two small screws. Now turn your attention to the front inner ring (with the writing on) and locate the three small screws around the rim before you remove them to set the aperture to ‘A’ and the focal length to infinity (the mountain symbol). Now loosen the three screws but do not remove them completely. The ring can now be pulled off.

Step 4. To remove the front lens element, simply unscrew it. It’s important to mark it before you move it so it can be returned into the exact same position. If not, the camera’s focus will be off. I suggest a marker or a scratch from a knife on the rim at the 12 o’clock position. Remove the lens, give it a good clean with a microfiber cloth and set it aside.

Step 5. Now you need to remove the bulk of the lens from the body. To begin, lift the wires on the bottom of the camera over the tripod thread to loosen them. Now locate the three deeper screws inside the lens and remove all three. The lens will now pull off the body exposing the middle element. Remove this and clean it also.

Now we get to the important aperture blades. Remove the screws holding it in place and start to work it with your fingers. It should open and close easily enough. Now take the lighter fluid and thoroughly clean the blades and surrounding metal. Keep working them and you should notice that they now move more freely. Leave the blades to fully dry or use a hairdryer. It’s important not to lubricate the blades as they will eventually stick again. To aid lubrication you can rub some graphite onto the blades by simply using a craft knife or Stanley blade to shave the end of a soft pencil (I used a 3B). Blow away any excess.

Step 6. With the blades now moving with ease, clean the rear lens element and trace back through your steps to reassemble the lens. Remember to align the front element as you marked it at the start. Once the lens has been assembled move the focal length dial one way then the other to make sure that the front element is rotating at the same time.

If everything looks good, it’s time for a test. The easiest test is to leave the aperture on ‘A’, cover the lens, and try to depress the shutter. If everything is now working, the shutter will not fire and a red flag will be shown in the viewfinder. Removing your hand from the lens and trying again should allow the shutter to fire.

You can also see the apertures in action by selecting them manually and either pressing the shutter half way. At f/2.8, the hole will be nice and wide whereas f/22 will have a very narrow hole. These tests confirmed that the repair in this particular camera was successful!

With the mechanics now working, you can turn your attention to the looks. Start by pulling off the camera’s current skin which should peel off quite nicely. Now locate the old messy light seals by the hinge of the door and clean these up. With the old seals removed stick the new ones in place using a cocktail stick to get to the hard-to-reach areas.

Step 9. At this point, you can give the camera an all over clean with some mild washing-up liquid and water mix with a slightly damp cloth and allow it to dry. Now polish the camera with something like Brasso liquid, taking care to avoid the parts the new skin is going to be stuck to. Depending on the condition of the camera you could use ultra-fine grit sandpaper or polish to really go to work on the camera. This is something I may look to in the future for the silver colored parts.

The new skins are relatively easy to attach. They don’t fix permanently so you can correct any errors. Be sure to get the skin right under the lens for a good fit. Now get the cocktail stick into any hard to reach areas and wipe over the skin to make sure there are no bubbles and it’s firmly in place.

Et voila! You're done!

You could go further and paint over the black painted parts that have worn over time but if you're like me and you intend on using the camera and not just keep it as a display, it’s probably not worth it. More importantly, be sure to run a cheap film through the camera to test the focus wasn’t incorrectly set when putting the lens back together. If it removed the front inner ring again, give the front element a 1/4 turn maximum and try again. Alternatively, there are more detailed instructions on the internet to help reset the focus.

This is a tutorial submitted by Community Member veato

written by veato on 2011-08-20 #gear #tutorials #camera #tutorial #olympus #tipster #clean #skin #fix #olympus-trip #refurbish #veato #aperture-blades

trip35snapper , photonstorm , olaab , fotodisc , ltinuviel , awesomesther , desibel , lowrising , julioaraujo , miich , pinkpix , domo-guy , stouf , mizz_eva , mcrstar , maximalanders , paper_doll , hewzay , mr-korn , wuxiong , crayfish , adi_totp & k_melancholy .

13 Comments

Great article on probably my favourite camera. Looks good in green!

That is a very cool makeover.

Hey - I finally got a trip off ebay and despite them saying it was in full working order I have no red flag and the aperture blades are stuck!!! Looks like I will have to do a repair. Is this easy to do? Also is it worth doing or if there is no red flag should I assume that the light meter isn't working anyway?

It's worth doing the repair. The red flag on mine wasn't working properly until I fixed the blades. It's not too difficult as long as a) you have a tiny screwdriver for the lens assembly and b) you mark the position of the front element so when it goes back together it's still in focus. If you're not sure it could always help you out. I'm fixing another one this weekend funnily enough for someone else!

Ahh thanks! I recently bought myself a €2 Olympus Pen, that seems to have the same problem as your Trip. This article got me motivated to try and fix it!

Hi, I own an Olympus TRIP which was working perfectly. But unfortunately I do not know how due to tension arising from being in my bag, the lens barrel (as a whole) came off and I am terrified. I cannot fix the lens barrel into the body. Can I? Please say yes.

Nice tutorial. One thing caught me off guard: A tiny ball bearing fell out, when I removed the main part of the lens assembly. I managed to work out that it sits inside the assembly to make the aperture choices click into place. Apart from that these instructions enabled me to fix a stuck aperture in my Trip. Nice!

Great article which helps enormously to repair the camera. - In case of my Trip 35, the shutter blades did not move anymore. In the article are good hints given how to get read of the bulk of the lens; the most difficult thing for me was to lift the wires on the bottom of the camera over the tripod thread to loosen them. After I managed this, I tried to clean the blades with petrolether. Unfortunately it did not work very well. Because of this, I tried to push a thin piece of paper between the to blades and to move it in all directions to remove any dirt or fat which sticks between the blades. Bingo! Without any more petrolether - which could also contaminate the lens - the blades move as they should and the camera works properly again. I tried this 'trick' also on with my Olympus PEN EE-3 which is similarly constructed as the TRIP 35. The result was the same! Unfortunately I forgot to make any pictures of the paper between the blades - sorry. However, maybe this is of any help of other camera users!?

In addition to my previous comment I like to present two pictures showing the thin paper between the two shutter blades in order to clean them. In this case the camera is an Olympus Pen EE-3 but the shutter is similarly constructed as the TRIP 35 - as mentioned before! /home/dietmar/Bilder 2/P1070231.JPG /home/dietmar/Bilder 2/P1070233.JPG

Hi, really nice article! thanks! I got a 30 € camera from catawiki, they said it was working but it ha a problem with the film loading. I removed the upper part and checking the mechanism I found the screw in the "thumbwheel" broken... any suggestion about trying to find this piece? here you can find the screw (and many other information about repairing!) www.petervis.com/electronics%20guides/Olympus%20Trip%2035/C… thanks!

@martzin check here about the ball bearing! www.petervis.com/electronics%20guides/Olympus%20Trip%2035/C…

Thank you so much for your detailed tutorial. This is my first film camera purchase and I bought it off someone who told me it was in full working order so the price reflected that. It wasn’t cheap to buy and it will be costly to send away fro repair. I am going to have a go at fixing it myself, your careful instructions have given me the confidence to tackle it. I am worried about the ball bearing though. Thanks @tropez for adding the guide, it doesn’t show the ball bearing in place, so if it fell out I would have no idea where to place it. Does anyone have a photo of the ball bearing in place? And did anyone come across any other issues ?

My aperture blades are stuck and i have trouble removing the lens. I have a piece of glass in front of it so i can’t reach the screws. Can anyone help?

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Resources to repair an olympus trip 35.

I came across this old Olympus Trip 35 camera at a pawn shop in Central Oregon and couldn’t pass it up for the price. I’ve shot a handful of different Olympus film SLRs in the past, but I’ve never gotten my hands on any of their point-and-shoot or rangefinder models. Make no mistake, the Trip 35 is a true point-and-shoot, grab-and-go camera that can produce some fun and surprising results.

Of course, if you’re seeking out a repair blog, you probably already know all this or you’re looking to patch up your ailing Trip 35 and make some memories.

I didn’t know much about these cameras before grabbing this one off the shelf, so I just loaded it up with a roll of Fuji Superia 400 film and handed it over to my wife to shoot a test roll. It came back with some spot-on photos, but also some missed opportunities with off exposure and weird focus shifts. So I started digging…

One of the most obvious things was that the lens barrel was very loose and wobbly. It’s a common problem where 4 mounting screws that secure the lens to the camera body work themselves loose overtime. In fact, one even came all the way out and started rattling around in the camera when my wife was using it! I think this was leading to some focusing issues, especially on close-up subjects in low light, where a small shift could throw have a greater affect.

Take these two photos for example, both taken back-to-back in low light in our living room. One came out, the other is blurry even though we’re the same distance apart in both photos.

Ok, so neither photo is tack-sharp, but this little camera did well given the lighting conditions.

One other thing I noticed is that the exposure was off a bit in a few shots, mostly in extreme conditions of bright sun and low light. Digging around on the internets I learned that this may be a death sentence for the camera since it’s full-auto and depends on its meter to function. Scary shit, right?!

But I don’t have much invested in this camera, so I figured this was a great chance to test my knowledge of vintage camera repairs and see if I couldn’t get this old Trip 35 in top working condition once again. These cameras are pretty straight-forward to work on, if you take careful steps and do a few key things that’ll make your life a lot easier.

Here are a few of the helpful resources I’ve come across for disassembling and repairing the Olympus Trip 35, plus a few notes worth keeping in mind before you go tearing into this thing:

Wobbly Lens Repair:

Flickr user Math.leduc went through the trouble of solving this one for us , even posting pictures online to help walk you through. Having just done this repair, I can feel his pain and frustration, and I have to offer him my thanks for saving me a lot of headache with this tutorial. This is one of the simpler repairs on the Trip 35, but it’s a little unsettling when you pull the camera apart in 2 pieces. It’s also a great time to replace the inner light seal between the camera body and lens unit.

Disassembly to Fix Stuck Aperture Blades/Shutter Mechanism:

I have absolutely no idea why the guy that runs the ThermoJet Microlight Stove website has a page dedicated to Trip 35 repair, but I’m not going to complain. This is an excellent step-by-step walk through of how to disassemble the lens unit to access inner lens elements, aperture blade assembly, and even the shutter unit (if you so dare). L

***NOTE: Take special care to mark the position of your front lens element and take note of how far it turns to the right (as ThermoJet Guy recommends) before you get it out of whack. This element twists when you turn the zone focusing ring, and if it gets out of place it is a really, really big pain to get it right again. ***

Refocusing the Front Lens Element:

If you’ve come to far and didn’t head the *** warning in the above post, then check out 120 Studio’s guide on refocusing the Trip 35 front lens element using wax paper, a measuring stick, and an upside down newspaper. HEED THE MANY WARNINGS. MARK YOUR LENS BEFORE DISSASSEMBLY AND PROSPER!

Complete Tear-Down and Parts Guide:

This guy Peter Vis has put together one of the most comprehensive guides to the Olympus Trip 35 that I’ve seen thus far . His posts cover everything from basic operation to detailed notes on circuitry, lens barrel assembly, and how the camera functions with its various parts and magical wizardry.

If you’re troubleshooting a problem or looking for a good place to start on your repairs research, this is it.

Modifying Shutter Speed to Stick at 1/200th

This crazy kid K. Praslowicz found a way to jam a paperclip in the Trip 35 and peg shutter speed at 1/200th of a second , thus allowing him to override the camera’s automatic setting and shoot with manual aperture settings. It’s a pretty cool mod that also kind of defeats the purpose of using a point-in-shoot, but hey whatever! Where there’s a will there’s a way I guess.

Adding Light Seals and Green Lizard Skin:

The scribes over at Lomography put together a how-to post aimed at freeing up stuck aperture blades on the Trip 35, but honestly there are other better resources online for that procedure (linked above). They gloss over some important points in that procedure, but offer a good overview of replacing light seals and applying a green lizard skin leatherette covering to the camera. Take for what it’s worth I guess.

Dealing with Light Meter and “Red Flag” Issues:

Somebody hit the panic button. The light meter is basically the heart of the Trip 35. Without it, the camera is toast. If possible you should always do a quick test of the meter before buying a Trip 35. Simply point it at bright light and push the shutter button to see if the aperture remains small (f22 is its default position) and listen to see if the shutter is fast. Next, stick it in a low-light area and do the same, these time checking for wide aperture and slower shutter. It’s not perfect but you can at least see if it’s responding to light in the right manner, although it could still prove to be inaccurate.

I noticed a few exposure errors on the first test roll through my Trip 35, but nothing to warrant too much concern Yet, once I repaired the lens wobble and reassembled the camera, I started getting the dreaded “red flag” pop up in the camera’s viewfinder regardless of the light situation. Even in bright light the camera was indicating there wasn’t sufficient light to take a photo — NOT GOOD!

While the selenium light meter on these cameras have a reputation for being pretty reliable, my research online pretty much gave my camera a death sentence — the “red flag” issue could mean your camera’s meter is dying and you’ve got a nice paperweight on your hands. That’s what I was led to believe, at least.

Yes, some light meters die and they’ll all die eventually I guess. But fortunately that wasn’t the problem in my case. I opened the camera’s top plate to take a closer look at the light meter configuration and see how it was responding using ThermoJet Guy’s details on how it should be reacting .

Confusingly enough, once I opened the camera up again, the light meter seemed to be working as-normal and was responding to different lighting scenes as expected. WTF?!? The more I fiddled with it I noticed that the meter’s needle get stuck randomly, not really hung up but sticky. It looked like the spring or magnet may have been gummed up and was hindering the needle’s movement at times. If I hit the camera body it would often jar it loose and the meter would start bouncing around again, so it seemed that at least the meter was still working.

I wasn’t prepared to open up the light meter housing (that just seems like a recipe for disaster) but with my gummy theory in mind I decided to take a calculated risk and attempt to clean the light meter, specifically where the needle comes out under the housing. Using a spray can of electronics cleaner (which shouldn’t leave any residues), I lightly doused the light meter housing, let it dry, and repeated the process 5-6 times. Slowly the meter started freeing up and behaving as intended. Crisis averted.

Now, time to burn another roll.

If you have any helpful Trip 35 repair links, insights, or other tidbits feel free to comment below. Per usual, attempt any of your own repairs at your own risk, or send it to me and I’ll fiddle with it for you.

Clay Duda is a freelance journalist and photographer. People usually pay him to write things. Here he does it for free.

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Olympus Trip 35 Repair

• Thread starter thuggins
• Start date May 24, 2008

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• May 24, 2008

Since I couldn't find a good document for testing and repairing a Trip 35, I just posted a fully illustrated set of instructions. www.thermojetstove.com/Trip35 Let's keep those little beauties clicking!  

• May 26, 2008

nicely done I have had my trip apart a couple of years becuase of all things the resistor popped off an end fitting, which put an end to auto metering. It would have been nice to have to see all of the steps to dissassemble it. In the end my repair was to hold the restistor bits together with a bit of blu-tack. There is a modification on the web to hook onto the lever that selects 1/40 vs 1/200 shutter spped setting, located under the exposure counter dial and allow you to 'pull a little bit of a ty rap' to allow you to use the camera on manual (ie flash settings) with the 1/200 shutter speed. I have not yet made this modification, but I have verified that the metghod it discusses will work. I have set this project aside until the day when my other little Oly, the XA dies.  

Some good instructions there. (despite some problems I had with loading the page) I have repaired a couple of trips and a couple of other old Olympus compact cameras, reasonably easy to work on if you are careful, I find it best to cover the work top with a large sheet of white paper before you start just to make it easier to see everything.  

felt is my preference A smooth felt, as you would once have found on a 'card table'. It reduces the risk that little things that drop out don't bounce out of sight. I ahve also learned to sweep and vaccuum the floor of the area I am working in before starting. It makes sweeping to find the little bit that gets away so much easier. To hold small parts I use empty egg cartons. The lid can be folded over and thus keep dust out if there is a while required before the thing goes back together again.  

Mike Wilde said: There is a modification on the web to hook onto the lever that selects 1/40 vs 1/200 shutter spped setting, located under the exposure counter dial and allow you to 'pull a little bit of a ty rap' to allow you to use the camera on manual (ie flash settings) with the 1/200 shutter speed. Click to expand...

I wish you'd posted this a year ago, I sent 2 or 3 Olympus Trip to landfil. Ian  

• Apr 26, 2011

Hey, I just wanted to thank you (a few years later) for posting this. It seems that you've helped me resurrect this little beauty to keep on shooting.  

You did a nice job with the detail work and the photos. The only thing you might want to do is figure out a way to correctly collimate the lens. That is, set infinity focus. If you mate the treads at a different point, then aligning to your previous mark will be incorrect at infinity.  

thuggins said: Oh no, Ian!! That only leaves 9,999,997 of them! Some folks have pointed out that Firefox does not render the site properly. I've reported the problem to them. In the meantime, it seems to work fine in IE. Click to expand...

John Hermanson

• Apr 27, 2011

Infinity focus is adjusted to 1/100th of a mm. Once you unscrew the lens (even if position is marked) infinity focus will be wrong when you reassemble (though depth of field will pull focus in). Was infinity focus correct when you took it apart? A focus collimator is needed to reset lens to proper infinity focus. John  

kittyhawk88

• Sep 30, 2011

it's quite easy to collimate for inifinity on a trip 35. just place a ground glass on film plane or scotch magic transparent tape and adjust the front element till it all comes into focus with the distance ring set for the mountains.. enjoy.  

• Mar 30, 2015

thuggins said: Since I couldn't find a good document for testing and repairing a Trip 35, I just posted a fully illustrated set of instructions. www.thermojetstove.com/Trip35 Let's keep those little beauties clicking! Click to expand...

• Mar 30, 2017

There are a couple of FTL bodies and a set of lenses in my collection. They are not a bad camera. While certainly not as innovative as the Pen's or OM's, they were on par with the competition of the time. Olympus did advertise the feature of a screw mount lens with full aperture metering. AFAIK, that was a first.  

Thanks for that. It may be useful... If my hands will stop shaking then seizing up, when I try to do delicate jobs. This message delivered by rolling into a ball and flicking from my knee.  

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Matt's Classic Cameras

home of Matt's world famous vintage camera collection

General Repair Tips

First of all.

ADDENDUM Real innovations in tools do come along once in a while and I’ve recently (1/2005) added two such items to my toolbox and expect them to become irreplaceable. The first is the “Cold Heat” battery powered soldering iron ( www.coldheat.com ). The instant-on, near-instant-cool makes it ideal for my oft-interrupted projects in my busy family setting, primarily from a safety standpoint. I splurged for the extra conical tip. The other is something I wish I had a couple of years ago, it’s a pen-dispensed conductive polymer I got at Radio Shack called “Circuit Writer”. It bonds small wires and electronics like solder but with no heat, and it stick to things that solder sometimes doesn’t. Dries quickly, is strong and slightly flexible, for tight spots you can squeeze it onto a jeweler’s screwdriver and apply it. It’s like a wish come true!

BY THE WAY, while specialty stores like www.micro-tools.com are great, I find that I can get just about everything I need, save spanner wenches and leatherette, at either Radio Shack or my local hardware store, craft store, auto parts store, or (gulp) gun shop. Yep, people feel about their guns the way we do about cameras and use some of the same stuff to repair & restore them. I’ll just leave that one right where it is.

Getting Started

Do all of your work in a large tray and have some wide tape handy. Why? You wouldn’t believe how many and how small the screws… I use a large ceramic-on-steel tray like the kind some watercolorists use for a pallette. Not only is it bright white but you can hear anything fall out of the camera like a hidden spring or screw. Alternately, and particularly when I’m working on lenses, I do the work on a paper towel so anything that drops doesn’t roll, I don’t worry about lens elements getting scratched, and I can also use it to wipe off my screwdriver tips if I use them for scraping grease. Keep careful track of where the bits and pieces go as you work. Some repairpersons suggest videotaping the disassembly so you have an exact record for reassembly. I sometimes record a disassembly with a digital camera. I knew it was good for something. (DOH!) Another case for this is that if you leave a camera for a while and come back to it later – I’ve been known to occasionally work on a repair over the course of a few weeks, or months – you can very easily forget which screw goes where, etc. without a record of the disassembly. I lay out the pieces in my tray as if it were an exploded diagram, and sometimes use tape for holding groups of tiny screws. If it’s very complicated I’ll draw a diagram. Lightly magnetize your screwdrivers. The best are made by Wiha — they’re the ones with black handles with red revolving tips. You always pay more for the best. I find that I use regular old Radio Shack jeweler’s screwdrivers the most, however.

General Cleaning

Most simple repairs seem to involve nothing more than a good and thorough cleaning. Shutters, aperture blades, slow speed mechanisms, focus rings, get a little hesitant (sometimes stuck altoghether) from old lubricant, dust or whatnot. Sometimes just working them repeatedly does the trick. If not, then a little ether, 97% isopropryl alcohol, or lighter fluid swabbed in there will dissolve the offending residue. Work the parts till they feel like they move freely, and if all is well no additional lubricant should be necessary. Some technicians recommend using tiny amounts of graphite if the parts just don’t want to move smoothly even after cleaning. I tried Nyoil, a super-thin watch oil, but found I got more mileage out of a lightweight Radio Shack lubricant that comes in a handy pen dispenser. If you do need to oil something, do it the way watchrepairpersons do: dip a small needle into the oil and just touch the part needing lubricant. The amount should be microscopic. DON’T get oil on the lens. Rosonol (naptha) lighter fluid is be the best thing for cleaning shutter blades, a lifetime supply available at your local hardware store for a couple bucks. It’s scary stuff though, use with extreme caution.

This should go without saying, but never put liquid directly on a lens or other glass. Always blow off dust first, then gently use your lens brush before even touching it with anything else, THEN moisten a swab or square of photogapher’s wipe with solvent, and gently clean the glass, following with a dry wipe. I have been known to carefully use a fingernail to get off a sticky bit, or to rub pretty persistently with a Q-tip and vodka to get off some unknown gummy residue without damaging the glass. But be careful. For the long term and in general, protect lenses with clear UV filters so you’ll only have to clean the filter, not the lens itself. Keep the lens clean, don’t keep cleaning the lens, as they say. Mirrors should be cleaned VERY gently if at all, I usually use Windex when I do. Note that particularly with vintage mirrors and rangefinder mirrors you risk removing the silver if you’re not extremely careful and then you’re kinda screwed – camera mirrors are front-silvered instead of rear-silvered like regular house mirrors. It make surface-surface calculations easier and avoids ghost images.

Light Seals

This is of course documented elsewhere, as it is a very common repair need for collectible cameras, notably the very popular Japansese rangefinders from the 70’s (Canonet, Konica S2 and C35, Yashica GSN, Minolta Hi-Matic, etc. etc.) Great cameras, bad light seals. Make no mistake, replacing light seals is a tedious, dirty, painstaking job but absolutely worth it and often absolutely necessary.

Get out the Q-Tips, toothpicks, dental picks, 97% isopropryl alcohol, paper towels, and Kimwipes. Scrape, moisten, rub, carefully make it all go away, noting exactly where it all went, a section at a time so you can replace it precisely. I previously used strips of mousepad (neoprene rubber) carefully cut using an X-acto knife and a metal straightedge for the film door mating grooves in the camera body. If you cut the mouse pad strips a little wide and stretch them they’ll fit in the grooves without any adhesive (thanks Winfried for this tip!). But then I discovered Lily Sugar n’ Cream black cotton crochet yarn, product #CA00111. Just like you see in the old German cameras! Quicker and easier, just as permanent. Seems to stay without glue, but I recommend hitting it with at least a tiny spot of Pliobond on each end.

Nine times out of ten in my experience the light leaks aren’t at the film door grooves though, they’re at the hinge or clasp (usually the hinge). For these – usually – straight flat sections I used to use strips of black felt salvaged from used film canisters (get them from your local friendly photo lab if you don’t develop your own film), glued with Pliobond. Now I use black Presto-felt, it costs about $1 for a 9×12 inch sheet at JoAnn Fabrics. It’s self-adhesive acrylic felt, and the adhesive is strong enough to stay but can be removed if necessary. Fast, easy, no toxic fumes. Now, for SLRs don’t forget to check the bumper where the mirror flips up, which often gets gummy and either causes the mirror to stick (my K1000 ) or leaves residue on the mirror (a friend’s Contax 137). But for ye gods’ sake don’t get any adhesive on the fresnel focusing screen! AAAGH! If you do, try to gently but firmly remove it with a toothpick point, something that won’t scratch the screen and cause more damage than the glue. Yes, I’ve done it.

For the larger sections of seals such as found in the Canonet QL17 , you can use pieces of something called ‘Foamies’ which are about $.79 for an 8.5″ x 11″ sheet at craft and fabric stores. Get black (it comes in all sorts of fun colors). Apply it with double-stick tape or Pliobond. If you can find the self-stick Foamies all the better. I hear it’s available at Wal-Mart. Sigh. Go there if you must.

Leather & Leatherette

Clean leather with Lexol (you can get it at the hardware store). Follow the instructions on the bottle. Reblacking black leather invloves, intuitively, using black shoe polish. Get the good stuff, Kiwi, which you can also apparently use to stain wood (according to the label). For a nice finish and protection, you can follow up with Sno-seal (also shoe or hardware store), which is beeswax for boots, or a quality leather conditioner. Don’t use Armor-all, which leaves a slippery coating you may be sorry to have. ( “Woops — dropped my Rolleiflex again!” ) If your leather is totally shot get some more at www.micro-tools.com , just be sure you get the right thickness. Calipers would probably help for that, I don’t have any just yet. For gluing peeling leather, another very common repair, use Pliobond (available at hardware stores or guess where). If you use it as glue you’ll be able to remove the leather later (a good thing). If you use it like contact cement the bond is much stronger. Alternatively, you can find leather or leather-like materials at second-hand stores and yard sales in the form of belts, boots and handbags, just make sure it’s the right thickness or that it peels apart. Then you can have interesting new looks like I got with my FED 5B or Praktica MTL3 .

Followup on the leather treatment, I’m still looking for a good leather conditioner for dry leather, I’ve tried Lexol (good), black and neutral shoe polish (good), beeswax (too thick & waxy), mink oil (looks good but may break down the leather long term), cocoa butter stretch mark lotion (nice, plus makes your camera smell yummy) and pure lanolin (OK but use sparingly). So far the Lexol and cocoa butter are the best, the beeswax and pure lanolin are much too thick and the others too thin. I’m trying some leather conditioner called ‘Blue Magic’ that seems OK. Depends on whether you’re trying to rejuvinate dry leather or protect good leather. Luckily I have some old beaters to experiment on.

Followup: a leather worker in UK recommends a product called Fiebings Neutral Leather Balm with Atom Wax for leather bellows. (Thanks Elliot!)

Aluminum and Steel

Windex will get oily residue and fingerprints off a camera body easily, if the residue is gummy you’ll want to use something like Goof-Off or Goo Gone, a petroleum-based solvent with citrus that dissolves that kind of thing. Use sparingly of course. Nail polish remover will take off paint and melt plastic so careful with that one. For tight spots use a toothbrush, for corrosion use vinegar. To shine it up I’ve used Flitz metal and fiberglass cleaner, unless it’s a tarnished aluminum lens barrel like we see in the older russian rangefinders. Some people like to use superfine steel wool, for me the resultant steel dust makes me nervous. What I’ve found works best for those lenses is a rubbing compound called Circle 7. Find it at your local hardware or automotive store. You’ll need a bunch of clean rags, it’s a messy little job. But you’ll be surprised how pretty they can be! Note – some are lacquered, using this will take the lacquer off. Cuidado.

Rangefinder Glass

Popular 60s-70s rangefinders have a couple of common issues, one of which is cloudy rangefinder glass. Cleaning the outside is easy, just Windex or ethanol (vodka) on a Q-tip or photo wipe, wiped dry with a photo wipe. To get inside, though, requires taking off the top cap – the metal shroud that houses the rangefinder mechanism, film counter, eyepiece, etc. I’m finding this to be fairly standard construction across all makes and models, so this is pretty generic info that will apply in most cases. First remove any visible screws in the top cap, sometimes there are three or four, sometimes as few as one or two. Sometimes there’s one hidden under the rewind knob. The rewind knob almost invariably is removed by opening the back, placing a bar of some sort (screwdriver, tweezers) in the fork that enters the film canister, and winding the knob counterclockwise to unscrew it. A little extra pressure is required to get it started. (Make sure not to close the camera back until you get it back together!) The wind lever is almost always held in by a cap removed by a spanner in two holes or by gripping the outside and twisting counterclockwise. On some cameras like the QL19 there is also a second retaining ring that twists off similarly. Sometimes there are additional screws, rings, washers here — place them carefully aside, noting which way they were oriented when you removed them.

Gently lift the top cap straight up when you get all the screws and knobs removed. Often it will be attached by a wire to the hot shoe, try not to put any strain on this wire as you lay the cap aside. The rangefinder is often underneath another little cover held in by a couple of screws or little spots of glue. Do not touch the meter needle or anything else in here, just blow out any dust and dirt, then carefully brush off any visible dust before CAREFULLY cleaning the CLEAR glass and mirrors with moistened Q-tips. Don’t reuse them, just wipe the wet end on and then the dry end, then get a new swab. Mirrors should be cleaned VERY gently if at all, and you shouldn’t clean the colored (usually yellow) glass or the color is likely to come off and then no more double-image in your rangefinder! Don’t forget to clean the inside of the glass that’s fixed in the top cap. The frosted glass (it backlights the meter readout in the viewfinder) is perfectly ok to clean, it looks for a second like you’ve ruined it but it dries cloudy, I swear (on all my cameras anyway, caveat emptor). Put everything back together again the way you found it.

Ground Glass

May as well include a glass cutter in your toolkit, I’ve used mine to cut replacement mirrors and ground glass. Here’s a handy tip: cut yourself a 35mm x 1 1/2″ piece of glass, and put frosted scotch tape on one side to have an easy way to check infinity focus on 35mm cameras. Set to ‘B’, trip the shutter with a locking cable release, open the back, put the glass with the tape side towards the lens between the film guide rails, and check focus with a loupe . Now, to make real ground glass for TLRs here’s an easy way: go to the auto parts store and pick up a little $5 container of valve grinding compound. It’s like grease with metal dust in it. Wearing surgical gloves and using a flat table as a surface, put some of the compound between two pieces of glass and rub them together until they’re good and frosty on that side (5-10 min should do it). Wipe them off carefully with paper towels and then clean them with Windex or other solvent, then cut yourself a piece of fresh ground glass. Messy but easy. Note: I tried using this for the focus check but under a loupe this kind of ground glass is too dark, like an SLR focus prism at small aperture. The tape works better for focus checking, the ground glass better for TLRs. I’ve hear you can use a glass etching chemical available at well-stocked craft stores. While you’re at it, make another bigger one for your 6×9 folders, why not?

Lenses: Fungus

A fungus among us? Strange as it sounds, there is a fungus that attacks the coatings on lenses, filters, and other camera glass, then the acid it secrets etches the glass permanently. You’ll see this mainly in older lenses, particularly ones that haven’t been cleaned in a while. I suspect that the fungus spores are simply present in dust and just allowing dust to collect on a lens, particularly around the rim, is enough to encourage eventual fungus growth (there’s a case for using caps). While I’ve been pretty lucky for the most part I have successfully cleaned fungus off a few lenses and converters. If you’ve got fungus, then in my opinion you’ve got little to lose by attempting to clean it off. Disassemble the lens, carefully, with surgical or cotton gloves on, from the front (usually) by removing the retaining rings in order. Important: place them down in order of removal or videotape yourself in case you get confused, and note which way the elements were facing. I mixed up the elements on a zoom lens and it took me two days to get them all back together correctly! (Though sometimes putting them in the wrong way can have unexpectedly pleasing results…) Often you’ll find screws are held in place with lacquer, you can dissolve it with a dab of nail polish remover, then reglue with clear nail polish on your way back out. Careful though, nail polish remover melts plastic and takes off paint! When you find the fungus, you can clean it with one of two solutions: either a 50-50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and ammonia (stinky but works well!) mixed right before you use it, or cold cream. An ex-camera tech wrote me to say that spit also removes the fungus and you can then clean it with Windex or something. I generally opt for cold cream and it works beautifully (though I’ll try the spit next time!). Just make sure you wipe off the excess and then re-clean the glass with Windex or ethanol before reassembly, and blow out any dust that may have gotten inside. Cold cream is mostly mineral oil, so if there’s a residue it will fog your lens a little. If the lens has been etched by the fungus, you’re almost certainly better off buying a new one than trying to do something drastic like having it reground. Or use it as a portrait lens, maybe the fuzziness around the edges will give you that soft halo you’ve been looking for!

Lenses: Mechanical Problems

Occasionally you’ll run across a lens that has mechanical issues. This can range from a bent auto-indexing pin to a loose ring to oil on the blades. Seven times out of ten this can be fixed rather simply by some common sense and a little know-how. Rocking housings and loose focusing rings are usually the fault of loose screws or spanner rings, find them and tighten them (sometimes they’re under the rubber grip, which lifts off) and if possible put a tiny bit of clear nail polish on the head to keep it from coming loose again. A bent pin on an M42 lens will keep the blades from stopping down, you can usually bend it straight by squeezing it gently with a needlenose plier. Oily blades should be treated the same way you would on a rangefinder, dismantle the lens to the blades and swab with lighter fluid till clean, hopefully on your way there you’ll see the excess of lubricant in the housing and can clean that up as you go. Sometimes it’s something else bent or a weak spring, you’ll only be able to determine that when you get in there and then may need the help of a parts lens to fix the problem. If the lens feels gritty when you turn it that usually means dirt in the heilicoid threads, clean them up and lightly re-lube with synthetic grease. Zoom lenses are particularly complex, I don’t recommend taking them apart unless you already have experience working on lenses, and even then be *extremely* careful to note the location and orientation of all the elements and spacers. You should do that anyway but after the fact it’s much easier to figure out on your own with a 6-element, 4-group normal lens than a 12-element, 8-group zoom. TRUST ME.

Also – see my special section on relubing the Industar-26 and Industar-61 lenses

Lenses: Yellowing?

This may be an issue with other lenses as well but I’ve only heard of it with Pentax Takumar lenses of a certain vintage. Something about the combination of rare earth (radioactive!) elements has caused the glass to take on a yellow cast over time. Though I haven’t tried this myself, I heard firsthand from someone who did, that you can put it in a windowsill for a week and the sun will bleach the glass back to its normal color. The one thing no one seems to be able to tell me is how long this fix is good for. Anyone?

Meters: Selenium Cells

You can spot selenium cells easily, they look a lot like ‘cat’s eye’ bicycle reflectors (these are actually the plastic covers, which are designed to increase the surface area and diffuse light over the meter cells). They are light-sensitive but eventually die and once dead, they’re dead. Some cameras like the Olympus Trip 35 and original Canonets have a ring of selenium cells around the lens and since they’re ‘always on’, you’ll find that they’re sometimes now dead if they’ve not been kept in the dark. Selenium was replaced as light meter material sometime in the 60s by Cadmium Sulfide (CdS) which becomes light sensitive in the presence of electric current, eg a battery. In any event, be happy if your selenium meter works, but don’t be surprised if it doesn’t. Instead, learn the ‘sunny f16 rule’ or get a handheld meter like my fave, the GE PR-1 (also selenium, go figure!)

Followup – I’ve since heard that the major malfunction of selenium cells is not exposure to light but actually exposure to moisture ! So a well-made, well-sealed meter cell should last for quite a long time, as evidenced by the samples that I have, which are nearly all still working and working properly even after 30-40 years.

Meters: CdS Cells

The standard photocell since the late 1960s, cadmium sulfide cells look like little discs with a printed-circuit zigzag line on it. On SLRs you’ll ususally find them under the top cap behind the prism, on rangefinders they’ll usually be mounted inside the lens housing behind a ring with successively smaller holes in it. Like selenium cells, they are variable resistors that alter the amount of voltage reaching the meter, in this case the voltage comes from a battery instead of the sun. They can occasionally die but usually the problem is a corroded ground wire from a leaky battery. See my GAF Memo 35 page for details on how I replaced a CdS photocell with a new one from Radio Shack. Note that the replacements will be more sensitive than the originals (progress, you know), so you’ll have to adjust the inline variable resistor till the meter reads correctly against a known good meter. The variable resistor looks like the one in the picture below, turn the arm to adjust the current flowing from the battery. Incidentally, this is also a quick and dirty way to adjust a meter from 1.3v mercury to take a modern 1.5v battery!

Meters: Battery Compartments

Frequently in 60s-70s cameras with electonic meters you’ll find that a mercury battery was left too long in the chamber and leaked. After carefully removing and disposing of the battery, and washing your hands (it’s mercury, after all), you can swab out the green residue with white vinegar and a cotton swab. Hope the wiring is still all OK. Replace with equivalent Alkaline or Wein Cell, available at places like the Battery Guys . I’ve tried a Radio Shack contact cleaner pen, doesn’t compare with simple vinegar and a Q-tip. Sometimes a fiberglass scratch brush comes in handy but they’re a little hard to find, though inexpensive once you do. An alternative is a punched-out circle of fine sandpaper glued to a new pencil eraser. If the wires themselves are the problem you’ll need to replace usually just one, get out your soldering iron because this falls under the heading of…

Advanced Repairs

For anything more advanced not covered here or on the camera pages (like the detailed GSN repair I walk through) you’ll probably want to get the service manual, likely available at CraigCamera or manuals2go.com and maybe a general camera repair text like Ed Romney ‘s popular (if amateurishly published) Revised Basic Training in Camera Repair, which I have and recommend. Pricey ($40US) but pays for itself quickly if you’ve got the bug like me. I have service manuals for the Contaflex I-IV, Yashica GSN/GTN and others. Some are helpful, some are not, for instance the Contaflex one is extremely confusing as it tries to cover too many revisions of the camera and the language is obscure. Remember these are written for service technicians, not laypeople.

You can also find much good info on sites like Medium Format Home , and forums like the Classic Camera Repair Forum . I find these sites invaluable for advice and assistance.

Patience and attention to detail are necessities. For me it’s a nice calming exercise as I am rather impatient and not so much detail-oriented. Also it helps to not have toddlers running around, that should go without saying. I do my work late at night with a bad movie on and a nice bright magnifying lamp.

Parts is Parts

On the subject of advanced repairs, if you need parts for a camera, the best source is obviously a ‘parts’ camera of the same type from which you can scavage screws, etc. This is especially true if you’re looking for a specific piece like a replacement for a badly dented top cap, a broken fresnel screen or a lens element. Generic parts like wind levers and self-timer levers can be scavaged from similar cameras, and possibly adapted to fit with needle files if you’re not too particular about restoring to ‘like-new’ condition. However if you’re looking for screws or springs, you can use not only broken cameras for parts but also broken radios, electronic toys, or possibly find parts at the local hardware or hobby store. I used a small $.99 mirror from a craft store to fix my ancient Voigtlander brilliant, screws from the hardware store to modify my Walzflex, and a battery spring from an electronic toy or flashlight will happily adapt a PX28 battery to fit in a Yashica GSN.

It’s also well known that people usually ruin the first camera they try to fix. Practice on a camera you don’t care too much about, like a $5 Argus. If it works when you’re done, all the better, if not – no big loss! I’ve been lucky so far, but then my Contaflex no longer works after I ‘fixed’ it. Yes, I fixed it good.

Related Links

• My page devoted to relubing Industar-26 and Industar-61 lenses
• My inside the Yashica Electro 35 page
• aaaaand my light seal replacement tutorial
• Micro-Tools
• manuals2go.com
• Basic soldering tips
• Kodak created a PDF on restoring antique cameras, find it on my Manuals page

All orders will now be dispatched on the 6th of May 2024. Thank you!

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Olympus trip 35 repairs & refurbishments.

If you would like your Olympus Trip 35 repaired or refurbished please fill out the contact form at the bottom of the page.

Full service

The following will be completed as standard during a full service:

1. All cameras will be fully checked over to ensure they are functioning correctly before work commences (if a repair is required you will be contacted to confirm if you want to proceed).

2. Shutter system cleaned and lubricated 

3.   Dust, debris and fungus removed from the lens and re-lubrication of the focus mechanism

4.   ISO, focus and aperture selection rings cleaned and lubricated

5. Fitting replacement light seals (including the internal light seal)

6. Cleaning the viewfinder and replacing the internal cover

7.   Internal and external clean

8. Paint touch up for damaged parts 

9.  New leather finish 

In order to properly service the camera the old leather finished needs to be removed. All of the available coloured leathers can be previewed here .

Prices start at £40 depending on how much work is needed and if any replacement parts are required. If your camera is already in for a service the cost of any repairs will be reduced. 

The Olympus Trip 35 was a well designed camera therefore many faults are fixable. This includes, but is not limited to, the following:

1. Stuck aperture blades & faulty red flag

This is the most common issue seen in an Olympus Trip 35! Oil makes its way onto the aperture blades causing them to stick, this also prevents the red flag from working.

2. Oily shutter blades

This is less common than the issue above but is still seen on occasion. Oil on the shutter blades may cause the shutter speeds to be sluggish or the shutter may not fire at all.

3. Stuck film advance

A number of small cogs within the camera's film advance mechanism can break if the camera has been dropped or mishandled and stop the thumb-wheel from spinning. This can be repaired by replacing the broken cog.

4. Out of focus lens 

The lens can become out of focus due to the camera being damage or incorrectly reassembled when taken apart. The lens will need to be re-calibrated using a collimator.

5. Flash not working

Sometimes the wire that attaches the hot shoe mount (where you attach your flash unit) can become detached. 

6. Damaged filter ring

If your camera has been dropped it's likely the filter ring has become dented. Minor dents can be reshaped but larger dents may require a complete replacement of the filter ring.

7. Missing parts

Some parts of the camera can break off such as the eye piece for the viewfinder or a camera strap lug. These parts can be replaced on request.  

Sadly there are a couple of things that I am unable to repair simply due to a lack of available parts, this includes:

• Replacing dead selenium cells 
• Replacing the glass element of the lens if it has been damaged  

If your camera has either of these issues please get in contact if you would like to sell your camera for parts and help save another Olympus Trip 35!

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Olympus Trip 35 Review – Learning to be More Spontaneous – by Andrew Morang

5 May, 2018

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In the past, I always used manual cameras. I measured the light, set the exposure, and focussed myself. Even in a car, I like to be in control and only drive manual transmission, which is almost unheard of in the United States. The point-and-shoot craze of the 1990s completely passed by me. But now I have this funny little Olympus Trip 35, a “point-and-shoot.”

Why I bought it is a bit of a story. In preparation for a 2017 trip to Nepal, I sent my Leica IIIC off for repair. But in case it would not be ready in time, I bought three inexpensive compact 35s from the ‘Bay. A Minolta was dead on arrival, but a Yashica Electro 35CC and an Olympus Trip 35 were fully functional. However, the Leica was overhauled in time for Asia, so the Trip stayed home. But I was curious to see if the Trip 35 was as good as so many reviewers claim.

As you can see, the Olympus Trip 35 is a simple device. Film winding is via a wheel on the back. Exposure is automatic, controlled by a selenium meter that is coupled to the aperture and shutter. If the light is too low, a red flag pops up in the finder to tell you that the shutter button is locked. (If you buy one from the auction site, make sure the red flag feature works; that means the selenium cell is functioning.)

Limitations

This little Olympus Trip 35 has limitations:

• There are only two shutter speeds: 1/40 sec and 1/200 sec. The camera sets them for you based on the amount of light, but if you turn the aperture dial off “A” to one of the f-stops, the shutter is 1/40.
• The light meter, being a selenium cell, does not have low-light capacity. The selenium cell (behind the bubbly plastic) surrounds the lens. If you want a low-light camera, you need one with a battery-powered CDS or SBC cell.
• The viewfinder does not have a focus aide, so you need to estimate the distance. The lens has some symbols to help you, such as a mountain or a person. Really, it is not difficult, especially with the semi-wide 40mm lens.
• The filter size is a unique 43.5mm fine pitch. Why did Olympus do this, to sell their own unique size? Color filters are very hard to find, and they do not screw in easily. Maybe the assumption was that most casual users took color negative film and did not care about filters.
• For some unknown reason, hoods are unobtanium in the USA. I had to order one from a UK vendor, and it cost as much as the camera did.

The Trip 35 In Use

Regardless of these limitations, this Olympus Trip 35 is fun. With this little Trip 35, you can leave the focus at infinity (the mountain symbol), raise the camera to frame, and snap away.  It is so simple, so liberating. I can take it with me on the bicycle, stop where I see something interesting, and snap a photograph. But I noticed I still support it in the same way as my bigger cameras: left hand cradling the lens and right hand holding the right side and index finger on the shutter button. Solid grip, no breathing, and careful press. So maybe I am really not spontaneous, but it is less of an effort than one of my “serious” cameras.

At low light, you can see the limitations of the Olympus Trip 35. Contrast is a bit low, and you should use a hood. And once the red flag pops up and locks the camera, your only option is to move the aperture control off “A” to 2.8 and hope the exposure will be adequate. Because I often take pictures in low-light conditions or in old buildings and factories, this little Trip 35 is rather restricting. Also, although there is no indication of when the selenium meter has set the lens wide open, the edges of the frame in dusk are a bit soft. I assume the lens is close to 2.8. It is certainly not as well corrected as a 35mm Summicron or 35mm Super-Takumar, but, of course, those are more sophisticated and expensive designs.

Despite some limitations, do not let me dissuade you from trying the little Olympus Trip 35. They are fun, inexpensive, and take good photographs. Thank you for reading, and thanks Hamish for letting me post these ramblings.

For more urban decay photography, please see:   https://worldofdecay.blogspot.com

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Comment posted: 06/05/2018

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Kodachromeguy replied:

Yes indeed, a step-up adapter is a possibility. I considered that, but there are two problems with the Trip 35. First, The genuine Olympus hood will not fit over the adapter ring, so then you need a screw-in hood that fits the filter that you finally adapt. Second: the viewfinder is partly obscured. Olympus used this size for several of their cameras, so once upon a time, there may have been more 43.5 filters available.

Philip Brooke on Olympus Trip 35 Review – Learning to be More Spontaneous – by Andrew Morang

Comment posted: 09/05/2018

Nigel Cliff on Olympus Trip 35 Review – Learning to be More Spontaneous – by Andrew Morang

Comment posted: 22/05/2018

Recommended reading : Down the Road on Olympus Trip 35 Review – Learning to be More Spontaneous – by Andrew Morang

Comment posted: 05/03/2020

Time to Meet Some of the Most Gorgeous Olympus Trip 35 Cameras Ever! – Photography on Olympus Trip 35 Review – Learning to be More Spontaneous – by Andrew Morang

Comment posted: 30/10/2020

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• Olympus Manuals
• Digital Camera
• Repair manual

Olympus 35 DC Repair Manual

• page of 80 Go / 80

Table of Contents

Troubleshooting.

• Symbols Meaning
• Exploded Views
• Outline of the Product
• BLC (Black Light Control) Button
• BLC Circuit (Exposure Correction)
• Synchro Contact
• BF (Bulb Flash) Contact
• Synchro Circuit (BF/EF Selector)
• Synchro Circuit Diagram
• FM (Flashmatic) Circuit
• FM Circuit Diagram
• Information Finder
• Inspection Standard Table
• Disassembly Procedure
• Demounting of the Upper Plate
• Demounting of Range Finder
• Demounting of Guide Base Plate/Gno Circuit Board/Lens Barrel
• Disassembly of Shutter
• Exposure Meter and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Flashmatic and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Range Finder and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Winding and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Shutter and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Lens and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Power Supply and Relateds Troubleshooting
• Others Troubleshooting
• Shutter Not Released in AUTO Mode
• EE Accuracy Plus or Minus
• EE Accuracy Check Points
• EE Accuracy Tending to Extreme Plus or Minus
• EE Accuracy Plus or Minus (Continued)
• No Change in the Exposure Quantity Even Upon the BLC Button Depressed
• Shutter Not Released in FM (Flashmatic) Mode
• No Change in FM Accuracy Even Upon GNO Varied in FM Mode
• Conductive in EF, but Not in BF
• No Conduction at the Shoe in both EF and BF
• Over- or Underexposure at Close Distance or Far Distance in both EF and BF
• Vertical Displacement
• Lateral Displacement at Infinity
• Inoperative Range Finder
• Displacement at Close Distance
• Winding Impossible (Hooked)
• Winding with Rattle, Unevenness and Squeak
• Sector Inoperative (Shutter and Relateds)
• Electronic Flash or Bulb Flashes Upon Winding
• Defective Focusing
• Battery Exhausted in Short Period
• Arrangement of the Lead Wires Within the Main Body and the F Main Body
• Each Leading Wire Combining Position and Direction
• Arrangement of the Lead Wires on the Upper Side of the F Main Body
• Handling of each Contact
• How to Release the Shutter Without the Battery
• Locational Relation between the Pointer Needle and the Needle Cam in Brightness Indication
• When the Helocoid Is Mistakenly Removed
• 961 Helicoid Dimensions
• How to Fully Open the Sector
• Relation between the Self-Timer and the Release
• Release Plate Operatig Direction
• Operation Range of the Self-Timer
• Precautions on Tentative Winding
• Position of the Needle Receiver after EE Adjustment
• LEE-12 Circuit Diagram
• Strap Ring Breakage
• Adjustment of Battery Checker
• Circuit Board Assembly CC1092 Diagram
• Adjustment of Battery Checker - Procedure
• Mounting of each Part
• LEE-12 Actual Wiring Diagram
• Use of IC in Place of Conventional Printed Board for LEE-12 Battery Checker
• Replacement of the Printed Board by the IC
• Parts Where Oil, Grease, Etc. Should be Used
• Molykote Type U Diagram
• Aron Alpha Diagram
• Photolub 023P Diagram
• White/Black Araldite Diagrams
• EP Grease Diagram
• Pliobond Diagram
• Loctive AV Diagram
• List of Changed Parts

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• 2 Symbols Meaning
• 3 Parts List
• 4 Exploded Views
• 5 Blc (Black Light Control) Button
• Download this manual
• Troubleshooting 28
• Range Finder and Relateds Troubleshooting 29
• Winding and Relateds Troubleshooting 30
• Others Troubleshooting 31

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Wednesday 16 April 2014

Re-focusing the lens on an olympus trip 35...serves me right for messing with it in the first place..

15 comments:

Excellent work. As for your light leaks on your other Camera, I'm sure that could be fixed with a bit of practice too.

Hang on. You were up rather late blogging!

Good Job! Can't wait to see the new skins (:

Well done on some brave surgery!

Hey guy! Fabulous set of instructions about the Oly Trip you have here...as you say, will save all afficianados of this camera a shed load of hassle! Thank you also for dropping in at my measly excuse for a blog www.filmcamera999.wordpress.com !! Hope you dont mind me telling everyone here that if youre into Olympus Trip cameras like I am, I stock a full range of internal light seals and exotic coverings for these and a whole lotta other classic cameras too...visit my blog and leave me a comment if you wish! Thank you once again for your visit!

Thanks for the detailed post. I had stuck aperture blades and pulled apart both my trips. I wasn't sure whether I had managed to keep the lens aligned though and didn't want to waste a role of film in case it wasn't. This definitely helped me double check. I used tissue paper to make the screen which seemed to work quite well. I also did the "test shots" in the dark with a lamp on the subject to get the image as clear as possible. Cheers.

Hey, Martin, thanks for the kind words, and thanks also for the extra tip about using a lamp. Hopefully, though, I'll never have to do this again. I've read that graphite powder can be used to lubricate the aperture blades, but I haven't tried this method myself. Now, I've got a hankering to use my Trip 35!

Just a little helper for you. You can carefully disengage the winder ratchet just below the cog you arrowed, you can then wind the winder backwards and the shutter will open and stay open until you wind it forward again.

Hi Anon, thanks for that. I spent sometime a few weekends ago taking one of the Trips apart (three times!) to lubricate the aperture blades. I think I've seen enough of the Trip 35 for a while. Although, I AM tempted to fix the blades on the other two Trips that I have. One day...

hi...don't know If you're gonna see it...but great tutorial...I'm Just confused about the one meter distance...is It lens - subject or film rail - subject?

Hi tiago maus, I worked it from the front of the lens to the subject. Hope this helps.

thank you!!

7.5 years on, this is still massively useful, thank you! Like you, I took apart the lens with a bit too much enthusiasm and neglected to mark the lens' position before taking it off. I've just loaded film in my hopefully renewed Trip 35, and now I have my fingers crossed.

Sam, best of luck! Worst-case, you'll have wasted a roll of film. Just don't photograph anything memorable, just in case. Thanks for the kind words, too!

Hi, I've just found a really easy way to keep the shutter blades open. Just make a small tube of paper just slightly smaller that the width of the aperture and about 1cm long. Wind the Trip on and push it gently on the back of the blades while you fire the shutter. With a bit of luck it should pop in and hold the blades open. I then held a plastic carrier bag tight over where the film goes and pointed it at the ceiling light (with a lampshade) and held the shutter button to open the aperture. I tried it at different distances to make sure the image of the lampshade was in focus.

How to Shoot Night Photography with the Olympus Trip 35 by Tom Box

• Learn to Shoot Film: Tips & Tutorials
• January 25, 2019

Written by  Tom Box

I would imagine most, if not all, of the people reading this have heard of the Olympus Trip 35

Over 10,000,000 units of the camera were sold during it’s lifetime, and the solid build, simple operation, and wide availability have made the Trip a hugely popular option for the modern film crowd.

I’m not going to review the camera, as this has been done dozens of times across the internet, but instead explain how to use the Trip outside of its limits, specifically with low light and night photography.

Find the Olympus Trip 35 at KEH Camera or on eBay .

Hacking the Olympus Trip 35 to Work in Low Light

The Olympus Trip 35 uses a selenium light meter to adjust aperture and shutter speed automatically, locking the shutter release if there is insufficient light which would result in underexposure.

However, the Trip also has a flash sync mode, whereby the aperture is manually selected and the shutter is set to it’s slower speed of 1/40th of a second.

This is, of course, designed to be used with a flash, but the manual aperture settings coupled with modern high speed films means you can also use the flash setting to successfully shoot the Trip at night. Don’t let that little red flag stop you…

Load a roll of 400 or 800 speed film, set the ASA to 400 and the aperture to it’s widest setting of 2.8, and you’re ready to go. That’s all there is to it.

If the scene is too bright for the set aperture of 2.8, don’t worry, the Trip’s meter is still active in flash mode and will stop down the aperture to prevent overexposure.

Related: Five Tips for Shooting Film at Night

Working With the Shutter Speed and Aperture Limitations

Now, 1/40th at f/2.8 really doesn’t seem slow or wide enough to shoot at night, even with 800 speed film. But I’ve found that I get excellent results if there are enough bright lights in the scene.

I used to shoot SLRs at night on aperture priority, lens wide open to f/1.4, and, even pointing at a shop window, I’d be struggling to hand hold the camera’s chosen 1/15th or 1/8th shutter speed.

The thing is, most auto-exposure cameras will be metering for the whole scene, taking into account the vast expanse of black just as much as any light sources.

More often than not, auto-exposure for a scene like a shop window at night would result in a blown out light source and mucky shadows, and not look at all how you remember seeing the scene with your own eyes.

Have you ever tried to take a photo of a sunset with your phone camera and it’s blown out the colors and tried to expose for the foreground? Every time.

What to Expect While Shooting the Olympus Trip 35 at Night

I won’t lie and tell you that using the Olympus Trip ( find on eBay ) at night will always produce perfect results. (It works best in an urban area with lots of artificial light.) But I do believe that shooting film at night can be as simple as setting the exposure once and getting on with taking photos.

An underexposed photo is better than a 2 second long exposure of motion blur!

Any grainy shadows can be clipped in using Photoshop or another image editing program to bring true black back into the shot and increase contrast.

That and slightly boosting the mid tones is pretty much the only editing I need to do to my Night Trip photos.

Related: Olympus Stylus Epic Point & Shoot Film Camera Review

The Olympus Trip 35 is a quintessential point-and-shoot camera, and that doesn’t have to stop when the sun goes down.

Try it yourself with some 400 or 800 speed film and see if you agree that night photography doesn’t always require tripods and fast lenses…

All of the photos in this post were taken on a trip to Japan, using Fuji Superia Premium 400 speed film and my Trip 35 set up as I’ve described. Developed and scanned at home.

I also double exposed a roll of CineStill 800T in the Trip. Photos below.

On a tangent…

It’s always worth checking over a ‘dead’ Olympus Trip 35 because it’s quite likely the meter is fine, and the problem is with gummed up aperture blades or other internal gubbins.

On two occasions, I’ve acquired a Trip which refuses to raise the red flag, suggesting the meter is dead, only to remove the top plate (held on by 3 easily accessible screws) and see that the meter needle is moving fine.

The problem both times lay in the sliding plates that determine aperture and shutter speed. A quick clean with naptha and it was working perfectly.

I’ve had a similar experience with an Olympus Pen EES-2 (basically the half frame Trip 35) which merely had sticky aperture blades. Half an hour of disassembly and cleaning and it’s working beautifully.

Thank you so much, Tom! Tom is a regular contributor here at Shoot It With Film, and you can check out his other articles here , like an intro to pinhole film photography and how to use prisms for creative effect . You can also check out Tom’s work on his  website  and  Instagram .

Leave your questions about shooting the Olympus Trip 35 at night below in the comments, and you can pick one up for yourself at KEH Camera or on eBay !

Related Posts:

Blog Comments

Noor Hashem

January 1, 2020 at 7:38 pm

Can i use a 200 speed film or does it have to be 400 or 800?

July 27, 2020 at 5:54 am

Hi Tom, Can you use the Fuji Superia Premium 400 speed film also during the day or you would recommend it only for night shots?

Many thanks! Px

shootitwithfilm

July 27, 2020 at 2:48 pm

Thanks for your comment, Pilar! Fuji Superia 400 is a great film to use during the day. You can check out this post for examples of what it looks like during the day: https://shootitwithfilm.com/how-to-shoot-fujifilm-superia-400/

January 22, 2021 at 8:21 am

How did you do the double exposure on the Cinestill 800T’s pics ?

January 25, 2021 at 2:22 pm

The double exposures were totally random, done by shooting a full roll, rewinding it almost to the end and then shooting over it again. – Tom

April 12, 2022 at 7:59 pm

Hi, I´m planning to use a Fuji 500T for night concert shots in my Olympus trip. Do I have to detail this to the photography laboratory? Any recomendation?

April 12, 2022 at 11:14 pm

Hi Morena! If you want it developed and scanned normally, you don’t need to let the lab know any special information. You’ll only want to let the lab know if you want the film pushed in development or if you want the film scanned a specific way (such as having it scanned for highlights to bring out the nighttime atmosphere of the images). And while you don’t have to let the lab know any special info, if you feel like it was a tricky shooting situation, you can always reach out to the lab and ask their advice for developing and scanning.

September 10, 2022 at 4:07 pm

I just purchased this camera and the red shutter flag appears over my view finder whenever it is set to automatic. I have not yet tested with film yet but my run through seems to work okay when the apture is set to any other setting (2.8-end). What does this mean? That my internal light source is dead? And if so what does this mean when shooting? Shall I just set it to sunny 16 (as a rule of thumb) but how will this look in low light?

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• Classic Manual Film Cameras

Olympus Trip 35 lens repair

By a_e_daly November 15, 2007 in Classic Manual Film Cameras

Recommended Posts

Yes, I know they're really cheap and I'd be better off buying another than

trying to fix one, but this one's in nice condition apart from this issue and

I'd like to learn another repair skill. This Trip 35 has a focusing problem

whereby the front lens element (the one that ought to move in and out as you

turn the focusing ring) seems to come unscrewed as you focus from far to near,

so that it moves out when you focus in that direction but then stays still when

you refocus back the way. You can manually screw it back in again, then the

next focusing turn will work as before, and so on.

It seems as if the front element and the focusing ring have come loose from

each other, or out of alignment so they don't stay locked together. It was

cheap enough that I'm happy to have a go at sorting this out. I see 3 tiny

screws around the edge of the front lens element. What would happen if I undid

those? Any advice or experience to share?

Link to comment

Share on other sites.

Yay! It's fixed - I think. I'll post the details here in case anyone else finds them useful. Bear in mind this fix looks and feels right, but I haven't run any film through yet.

If you loosen the 3 tiny screws described above around the foremost lens element (the ring engraved Olympus, D. Zuiko etc.), you can remove this ring - it may take some manipulation but it basically twists loose and then lifts out. (You shouldn't need to take the screws out completely). You'll see this ring has a kind of spoke sticking straight down into the camera. Once you take the ring out, the front lens element is visible and can be gently unscrewed. If you do this and lift out the lens, then look down into the space vacated while moving the focusing ring, you can see the focusing ring internally has what looks like a small C-shaped black clip which is moved back & forth by the focusing. It's clear that the end of the 'spoke' on the outer steel ring is supposed to fit into this groove so that, when that and the lens are fastened back together, the focusing ring will move it and thus turn the lens.

You'll see the lens is set in a dark matte black outer fitting. This has a tiny groove running all around the outside. The ends of the 3 tiny screws on the outer ring, once tightened, fit into this groove to hold the lens in place.

Screw the lens back in, carefully, then turn the focusing ring all the way round so that it's set at the greatest distance (i.e. the point at which the lens is fully retracted). Lower the outer ring back into place, making sure the spoke does fit into the C-shaped socket (I think this was the cause of my problem). Once it's snugly in place, tighten the 3 screws to join ring and lens. Now, when you turn the focusing ring, the lens should turn back and forth as expected. Voila.

Apologies for the non-technical language, btw. I'm sure all these things have proper names rather than 'that steel ring with the lettering on' and so forth.

Overall I'm quite pleased, this is the first repair I've done that wasn't light seal replacement. Even if the focus is off, at least I'll know where to correct it.

michael_frangos

Have you checked whether the camera can now focus correctly? Screwing the front group all the way in does not guarantee correct focus. Fixing the focus is easy enough. Remove (again) the name ring and mark the rim of the front group with a pencil any place. Take a series of pictures turning the front group a couple of rows (those on the selenium meter) at a time. Develop and check for the sharpest picture of the set. Turn the front group so that your pencil mark is in line with that point and attach the name ring... happy shooting!

charles_stobbs3

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