trek cycle computer

Best cycling computers 2024: GPS units for routing and training

The best cycling computers can enhance your ride, whether that is by helping you explore new routes or by allowing you to train more effectively.

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The quick list

• Best cycling computers
• 1. Best overall
• 2. Best for training
• 3. Best app
• 4. Best budget
• 5. Best value
• 6. Best value for navigation

Buyer's guide to the best cycling computers

How we test, best cycling computers 2024: jump menu.

The list in brief ↴ 1. Best overall 2. Best for training tools 3. Best app 4. Best on a budget 5. Best value overall 6. Best for navigation Advice How to choose How we test

The best cycling computers give you access to huge amounts of data from your ride and allow you to navigate flawlessly across unknown terrain. If these features aren't of interest to you, cheaper units will still track your ride for uploading to apps like Strava or simply record it for your memories.

The computers will usually connect to your smartphone for added functionality, such as messaging or calls, as well as other devices like heart rate monitors and power meters . Some units offer a touchscreen for easy control whereas others use buttons that are more convenient when wearing gloves.

More advice on which features to look out for and what to consider when buying a computer is offered at the end of the article, but first have a look at our choice of the best cycling computers.

Best overall

The Karoo 2 has a large, high-resolution touchscreen that is responsive and easy to read. It uses an Android operating system and so benefits from an intuitive design and regular updates. 

Read more below  

Best for training tools

Solar charging helps increase the battery life of the Edge 1040, and there is an impressive array of metrics and data recorded to get stuck into. Not cheap though, and requires peripherals like an HRM and power meter to get the most from it.

Best smartphone integration 

Buttons rather than a touchscreen operate the Roam, which will be a pro to some users and a con to others. Training and navigating functions are done well, but battery life could be better.

Read more   below

Best for those on a budget

The minimalist Garmin Edge 130 Plus does the basics well, and will be ideal for a lot of riders. Button controls and a sharp screen make it easy to use, and set-up is simple too.

Read more below 

Best value overall

With a color screen, loads of features and clear navigation, Wahoo's Elmnt Bolt is a pleasure to use. Battery life is good and the app makes setting the device up very easy.

Best value for navigation

Aimed more at navigation than training, the Edge Explore 2 lacks certain functions such as Strava Live, but it can still be used with a power meter, etc. It is significantly cheaper than some options too, so well worth considering.

Read more below

The best cycling computer

Hammerhead's Karoo 2 boasts a smartphone-like touchscreen that's easy to use

1. Hammerhead Karoo 2

Our expert review:

Specifications

Reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

Now owned by SRAM, Hammerhead makes the Karoo 2, which works a bit differently from other cycling computers, with the ease of use and responsiveness of a smartphone that other cycling computers can't match. 

That starts with an Android operating system rather than something proprietary and Hammerhead releases regular updates to its software, so it's likely to be futureproof. It's also more fully integrated with your smartphone.

The touchscreen is also much more smartphone-like. We found it super-responsive and you can pinch to zoom and, like a smartphone, navigate quickly between screens via shortcuts. The Karoo 2 is also quick to charge via its USB C port.

Read more: Hammerhead Karoo 2 full review

The best cycling computer for training

As the name suggests the Edge 1040 Solar can be recharged by the sun's rays

2. Garmin Edge 1040 Solar

The ability to charge the Edge 1040 Solar via the sun is quite the attention grabber. Garmin says the Power Glass™ solar charging extends battery life up to 42 minutes per hour in battery saver mode, giving you up to 45 hours of battery life in what it describes as "demanding use cases" and up to 100 hours in battery saver mode. 

It's worth noting that this is based on an assumption of continuous 75,000 lux conditions during daytime rides. Essentially that means consistently bright sunshine that you may well enjoy during summer rides but, depending on where you live, are less likely to experience during the cooler seasons. Naturally, your expectations should match the amount of cloud cover.

The Garmin Edge 1040 Solar also features a revamped user interface that we found to be far easier to navigate than other Garmin models. The home page features customizable data fields so you can easily scroll through your recent activity history, training schedule, weather forecast and more. You can also view data such as your recovery time using the 'glances' feature.

Other interesting features include the Power Guide, which generates a pacing strategy for your chosen route to help you best manage your efforts. Naturally, all this tech doesn't come cheap, but if you're after an all-singing, all-dancing cycling computer you're unlikely to be disappointed. 

Read more: Garmin Edge 1040 Solar first ride

The best integration with smartphone app

The Elemnt Roam is Wahoo's 'navigation first' cycling computer

3. Wahoo Elemnt Roam

The Wahoo Elemnt Roam brings what we know and love from the Elemnt Bolt into a slightly larger format.  Function and compatibility-wise, the Roam covers all the basics as well as phone communication alerts, live tracking, and structured training, to name but a few.

It's the best rival for the more pricey Garmin Edge 830, but doesn't get a touchscreen, which is actually a benefit for some riders who ride in wet weather and find this feature far from ideal. The three main control buttons are well-sited at the bottom of the unit's face; they are large and were easier for us to use than the small side-mounted buttons of many cycling GPSs.

The battery isn't as long-lasting as some of the other computers' claimed times, but it's a handful of extra hours over the Bolt. 

Read more: Wahoo Elemnt Roam full review

The best budget cycling computer

The Edge 130 Plus is stripped back and simple but still very capable

4. Garmin Edge 130 Plus

We know that this buyer's guide is looking very much like a 'Best Garmin Cycling Computer Guide', but it just goes to show the brand's domination in the field, with the Garmin Edge 130 Plus no exception, having gained a Cycling Weekly Editor's Choice Award. 

The Edge 130 Plus is stripped back and simple, yet a very capable cycling computer. Using buttons instead of a touchscreen, we thought it was easy to set up and changing data fields is a breeze to do, even on the fly.

It can pair with ANT+ and Bluetooth accessories like heart rate monitors, cadence sensors and the best power meters . It is a device that would suit those who want to push their performance, chase Strava Live segments and train, but who don't need the top-end features offered at higher prices.

Read more: Garmin Edge 130 Plus full review

The best value

Wahoo's Elemnt Bolt V2 expands on the original now featuring a color screen

5. Wahoo Elemnt Bolt V2

We are big fans of Wahoo's cycle computers for their ease of setup and bombproof software. 

The Wahoo Elemnt Bolt has received an upgrade with more memory and a color screen. It's still button-operated rather than its 2.2" screen being touch-sensitive, but the buttons are now convex for easier operation, particularly when wearing gloves. 

Set-up, pairing to a smartphone and configuration remain super-easy though and data is clear and legible. The LED array can help guide you too, although we didn't find it very useful.

Mapping and route management have been upgraded as well and there's clear turn-by-turn navigation and plenty of onboard map coverage without needing to download more basemaps. Navigation can be hit-and-miss though in our experience.

Other features include structured workouts, Strava Live integration and multisport handovers, as well as the newly-added Summit Climbs that give you a gradient profile for a pre-mapped route. Battery life is around 15 hours and there's quick USB-C charging.

Read more: Wahoo Elemnt Bolt V2 full review

The best value cycling computer for navigation

6. Garmin Edge Explore 2

The Edge Explore 2 is a kind of antidote to the all-singing, all-dancing, solar-powered Edge 1040 Solar. It costs less than half as much as the 1040 and it’s aimed at the rider who doesn’t need all the performance metrics or the outdoor structured workouts. There’s also no Strava Live Segments. That said, it will pair with Bluetooth and ANT+ sensors, sync everything with Garmin Connect (via Bluetooth; it doesn’t have WiFi), upload to Strava and other training apps and give you smart notifications, group ride messaging and incident detection - always handy.

If you've been using a heart rate monitor and power meter you'll get 'Highlights' after finishing your ride - a new V02max (if applicable) and recovery time - which feeds into Garmin Connect once synced and adds to your overall fitness data if you're tracking it.

So although navigation is the Edge Explore 2's primary function - and it does it incredibly well - training is by no means neglected.

In testing we found the Edge Explore 2 easy to set up, easy to use, easy to afford (relatively speaking) and ideal for most cyclists most of the time. It doesn't have the largest range of options (only three activity profiles for example) or the latest version of ClimbPro, and it's a shame you don't get an out-front mount in the box, but overall it's a great unit for the money.

Read more: Garmin Edge Explore 2 full review

Good features at a reasonable price

Bryton's Rider 420 E delivers an impressive price-to-performance ratio

7. Bryton Rider 420 E cycling computer

The Bryton Rider 420 is one of the brand's more budget-friendly options. The fully-featured head unit supports every sensor under the sun and provides advanced data metrics like normalized power and TSS.

While it doesn't have a color screen, it can offer turn-by-turn directions, though without a basemap you are just following a black line on a blank screen. Setup can be done on the device itself, or through the companion app, which wasn't a totally intuitive experience for us, but it still works pretty well. Best of all, with a 35-hour battery life, it will outlast most other computers on the market.

With around 77 available data fields, it's comparable to the Garmin Edge 130 or the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt, but it isn't exactly a fair fight as for the price saving you do lose maps and user-friendliness, but if you're on a tight budget, it's a fair price for a functional unit.   

Read more: Bryton Rider 420 full review

Best cycling computer for simplicity

Cateye's Quick Wireless computer is straightforward to use and easy on the eye

8. Cateye Quick Wireless Cycle Computer

Tested alongside a Garmin Edge 530 , the Cateye Quick mirrored the more powerful unit digit for digit in terms of speed and distance accuracy. Not bad for such a simple and relatively, in the scheme of things, cheap unit. 

It’s also easy to read at speed and the out-front position puts it neatly in the field of view. As with all of Cateye’s simple computers, the battery life is measured in years rather than hours.

With the delightful simplicity, you do limit functionality. There isn't any compatibility beyond the wireless speed transmitter and you won't get a record of where you've been as there's no GPS chip on board. But if you are looking for a neat and simple cycling computer and don't need connected features, the Cateye Quick is accurate, reliable, and best of all looks really cool. 

Read more: Cateye Quick full review

Best for re-routing

Garmin's Edge 830 benefits from an easy-to-use touchscreen

9. Garmin Edge 830

Although Garmin recently brought out the Edge 840 (which offers improved maps, coaching and solar charging over its previous iteration, the 830), we absolutely loved using the Garmin Edge 830 and were impressed by its design and excellent touchscreen. For those reasons, we added it to the Cycling Weekly's Editor's Choice Awards and, with it no longer being Garmin's latest generation model, fantastic deals can usually be found. 

At first glance, it's tricky to tell the difference between the Edge 530 and Edge 830, both have a similar-sized profile and display screens. The biggest deals functionality-wise are that the Garmin Edge 830 gains a touchscreen and you're also able to amend and create a route directly on the unit, while you'll need to sync with your phone or computer with the Edge 530. 

With a significant amount of data, capabilities and compatibility, you have a whole suite of analysis at your fingertips, which will probably be more than most bike riders ever need. But if you're the kind of rider who likes to change things up on the fly, it's hard to beat. 

Read more: Garmin Edge 830 full review

Best non-solar performance

The Edge 1030 Plus has plenty of bells and whistles including a color touchscreen and a ton of features

10. Garmin 1030 Plus

The Edge 1030 Plus extends Garmin's top model's capability off-road. It's the biggest device Garmin makes, but with its black bezel and grey case it is in line appearance-wise with the rest of the Garmin range.

In terms of navigation, Garmin is one of the best in the field. Increased mapping capability is the biggest update on this cycle computer, with detailed maps of your home region coming as standard.

This wireless bike computer features far-improved navigation which includes turn-by-turn directions even off-road, clearer mapping and a much-improved touchscreen that allows you to pinch and zoom the map, just like on a mobile phone, making it possibly the best cycling sat nav out there.

Unusually, setup is one of the highlights and this update also takes its cues from mobile phone tech: via Intelligent Activity Profiles, the 1030 Plus ports across the activity data from your previous Edge 830 or 1030, so no more having to program data fields and no need to ride the bike to make sure it all works properly. 

It's exactly like setting up a new iPhone, with the whole process taking less than three minutes rather than half an hour. If you don't have another Garmin unit, it will use data from Garmin Connect. We thought this was the best update from Garmin for quite a while.

Other than its incredible user-friendliness, the Gamin Edge 1030 Plus is overflowing with features and capabilities, from messaging and safety features, to road and off-road navigation and even syncing training plans and receiving nutrition and hydration alerts. 

It's an incredibly smart cycle computer, like having a mini coach on your bars every ride, but you do have to pay for the privilege. 

Read more: Garmin Edge 1030 Plus full review

Best mid-range

The Garmin Edge 530 provides plenty of data for training and navigation

11. Garmin Edge 530

Anyone wanting to join the data squad with a Garmin, but struggling to justify the expense of the high-end versions will be pleased to know that the Edge 530 mirrors the Garmin Edge 830, but without the added expense of the touchscreen, which for some, including our reviewer, is no bad thing.  It's no longer the latest model, Garmin released the latest iteration, the Edge 540 , in the spring, which means there are often discounts on the 530. 

The buttons and system set-up aren't quite as good as the Wahoo Elemnt Bolt, but considering it packs all the performance of the larger Edge 830 and most of the Edge 1030, it's a highly desirable cycling computer. 

For size and functionality, it's hard to find anything on the market that's quite as good. 

Read more: Garmin Edge 530 full review

What features can I expect from an entry level non-GPS cycling computer?

The most basic cycle computers are generally available for about the cost of a takeout lunch, (or even cheaper if you do a bit of shopping around). Of course, for this sort of money your computer isn't going to be packed full of functionality.

The very cheapest bike computers will measure the basics such as your speed and cadence (and from these calculate things like your average speed and average cadence), taking these figures from speed and cadence sensors located on the bike frame, to which they are connected using wires.

Pay a little bit more, and you can upgrade to a wireless cycling computer, which will connect to your speed and cadence sensors without the need for having unsightly wires running all over your frame. These sorts of computers are probably the best option if you're on a budget and aren't worried about uploading your rides to Strava or doing any serious, structured training.

In general, just less than a triple-figure price tag will give you even more choice cycling computer-wise, and they will begin to offer more functionality, although in general, unless you get one of a deal, it's unlikely that these models will go quite as far as being a true GPS enabled unit.

What features can I expect from entry level GPS cycling computers?

An entry-level GPS unit will be great for getting you going with tracking your rides, and possibly other features. You can often find bundle deals with a heart rate monitor and/or cadence sensor, which might push the price up slightly, but work out more cost-effective than buying items separately. 

At this price point, manufacturers prioritize ease of use, small size and low weight – usually well below  3.5oz/ 100g.

The GPS unit will typically track your ride statistics such as distance, time, speed and lap times but will not provide navigation. Most units will pause automatically when you stop moving and resume when you restart and provide ANT+ connectivity for external sensors.

Ride data is typically displayed in two or three rows on a black and white screen. There may be the option to specify which data items and how many rows are displayed, but one of the selling points of these devices is that you turn them on and start cycling without needing to delve into complex configuration options, so personalization tends not to be a priority.

The GPS may also allow you to set alerts when you have reached a target value such as having ridden for a pre-specified time. You can get virtual competitor functions so that you can see how well you are doing compared to previous rides of the same route.

The Bryton Rider 40 is a mid-range unit emphasising training plans

What features will I find on a mid-range GPS cycling computer?

Spend a bit more and you will start to get additional functionality in your GPS. Mid-level units can often come bundled in with a heart rate monitor or cadence sensor, but will also have a high level of compatibility, so will be capable of displaying and tracking data from existing hardware you have, including any power data. 

A mid-range unit will usually be larger with a bigger screen which can display more data, often in color. Data storage capacity will probably also increase. The unit may be controlled by buttons or a touchscreen, and many mid-range units add mapping and navigation functionality. Some will have basemaps preinstalled, or that can be downloaded while others may only support breadcrumb trails.

Because of how GPS satellite triangulation works, altitude data calculated from GPS is less accurate than positional data. Thus higher-spec units will often add a barometric altimeter to increase recording accuracy for height and rate of ascent.

Many mid-range units now include Bluetooth synchronization to a smartphone, meaning your computer will show you calls and texts on screen, and other data from the phone, such as weather alerts. Some computers send data back to the phone, so it can transmit ride progress data to the internet, where people you allow can view it, and let you upload your rides without the need for a USB cable.

What features can I expect to find on a high-end GPS bike computer?

The arms race in high-end cycle computers continues and manufacturers seem to be announcing new top-of-the-range features every few months. These products come in at almost half the price of a decent road bike or more, weigh up to 7oz/ 200g and may come packaged with a heart rate monitor strap and a cadence sensor.

At this price point, you should expect a color touchscreen, mapping, turn-by-turn navigation, and advanced training features and integration. This may include WiFi connectivity for data transfer, route suggestions, and the ability to share a route with your ride companions. 

These higher-end computers are likely to have integration with other devices and applications. Most will connect to electronic drivetrains for gear information, show Strava Live Segments and allow for workouts to be synced directly from third-party apps like TrainingPeaks or Today's Plan.

There was a time when battery life was an issue on these computers with their large screens, but now you can expect about 20-hours of run time. These higher-end units will all have access to multiple positional satellite constellations like the Russian GLONASS, Chinese BeiDou, and the EU's Galileo network.

The more expensive GPS computers will offer turn-by-turn navigation and a host of other features. 

How can I use a bike computer to analyze my ride data?

Even basic cycling GPS units allow you to download data post-ride to the manufacturer’s ride recording site and phone app. These apps support ride analysis, training plans and social interaction, although the quality of the functionality and user interface varies. But you can then upload your data to Strava, Training Peaks or other third-party sites if the manufacturer's site falls short.

Analysis options will be richer, of course, if you have used peripheral devices such as a cadence sensor or power meter to capture extra data.

Manufacturers' ride analysis apps provide mapping and ride statistics

What are the best alternatives to a cycling computer?

If you don’t want to buy a cycling-specific GPS, other options are available. Modern smartphones will have a GPS chip built into them. This may not be as precise as the chip in a dedicated cycling GPS but should still allow you to track your position with reasonable accuracy. You can log your rides using a smartphone app like Strava, with the best smartphone apps offering much of the functionality of a basic computer.

You can either put your phone in a pocket or buy a phone mount that attaches to your bars or stem, like a Quadlock or Rokform phone mount . Both are good examples of how to mount your phone on the handlebars safely.

If you use your phone beware of water, as many are not water-resistant. Battery life may be an issue too, especially if you want to use your phone’s display to see your data while you ride.

If you are going to carry your phone, another option is to use its GPS capability to collect ride data, which is transmitted via Bluetooth to a bar-mounted display unit, like the Cateye Padrone. 

This allows you to keep your phone out of the way and turn off the screen whilst still being able to see ride statistics. Display units will usually also show data collected from peripheral devices via ANT or Bluetooth.

GPS-enabled sports watches are also popular among triathletes and mountain bikers.  Our page on the best smartwatches for cycling gives you the full lowdown on wearable fitness trackers that are great when riding. 

These allow you to track activity across different sports and many allow connection to peripheral devices and include navigation too. Some come with a bar mount so that you can use the watch attached to the bike or on your wrist.

Garmin Fenix 6 is a GPS-enabled smartwatch

Cycling Weekly has a team of testers with vast experience in testing bikes, components, clothing and accessories across a wide range of prices and spec levels, so they know bikes and tech inside out and have the experience to know what makes a great cycling product.

Our experience means that you'll have a consistent, in-depth viewpoint, which is reflected in our product scoring.  You can find out more on our How We Test page.

When it comes to testing the best cycling computers we log plenty of miles both outdoors and on the turbo to assess their performance. We take into consideration a range of factors, including how easy they are to set up and use and the variety of functions they offer, both as navigational and training tools, as well as practical considerations like battery life, charge time, resistance to weather and of course value for money.

Cycling computers in summary

You can trust Cycling Weekly. Our team of experts put in hard miles testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

However much you want to spend and however much data you decide to record, a GPS unit will enhance your ride by leaving you a permanent record of where you have ridden, when and how fast.

It will give you the option to delve further into your performance and the tools to improve and broaden your cycling experience. You will be able to share ride data with friends, compete against others and improve on your personal bests.

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Hannah is Cycling Weekly’s longest-serving tech writer, having started with the magazine back in 2011. She has covered all things technical for both print and digital over multiple seasons representing CW at spring Classics, and Grand Tours and all races in between.

Hannah was a successful road and track racer herself, competing in UCI races all over Europe as well as in China, Pakistan and New Zealand.

For fun, she's ridden LEJOG unaided, a lap of Majorca in a day, won a 24-hour mountain bike race and tackled famous mountain passes in the French Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Himalayas. 

She lives just outside the Peak District National Park near Manchester UK with her partner, daughter and a small but beautifully formed bike collection. 

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Trek Incite 8i manual

manual Trek Incite 8i

SAFETY AND GENERAL GUIDELINES

Trek incite, bicycle computer owner’s manual, trek bicycle corporation, attn: customer service, 801 w. madison street, waterloo, wisconsin 53594, http://www. trekbikes.com (920) 478-4670.

View the manual for the Trek Incite 8i here, for free. This manual comes under the category bicycle computers and has been rated by 5 people with an average of a 7.9. This manual is available in the following languages: English. Do you have a question about the Trek Incite 8i or do you need help?  Ask your question here

Do you have a question about the Trek and is the answer not in the manual?

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Question and answer

I have a 3 wheeler trike. How do I set the size for wheels etc. 2 smaller ones in front vs the larger in the back!

To set the wheel size for your 3 wheeler trike with 2 smaller wheels in front and a larger wheel in the back using the Trek Incite 8i bicycle computer: 1. Cycle Mode to TME. 2. Hold Set. The wheel selection icon will appear in the upper left corner. 3. Cycle Set to your preferred wheel size from the provided options. 4. Cycle Mode to the four-digit number. 5. Press Set. 6. Cycle Mode to your preferred first digit value based on the provided table. 7. Press Set to select. 8. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for each following digit. 9. Hold Set. The computer will return to the current speed display. To select the wheel size: 1. Cycle Mode to TRP. 2. Hold both left Mode and right Mode simultaneously to change the wheel size icon. To restart the trip modes: 1. Cycle Mode to MAX. 2. Hold Set until after completing the next step. 3. Hold Mode. The Max setting will restart at '0'. For setting the second wheel size: 1. Cycle Mode to ODO. 2. Hold Mode. The mileage conversion will flash. 3. Cycle Set to your preferred conversion. 4. Press Mode to select. 5. Cycle Set to your second wheel size. 6. Push Mode to select. 7. Push Mode to select each digit of the odometer. To select Wheel 2: 1. Cycle Mode to TRP. 2. Hold Mode to select the other wheel size.

I have a incite 8i and it will not turn on even after trying 2 new batteries.i know they are installed properly

How do I set the speedometer?

Ami me sale todo, hasta los kmh, pero está todo el rato en 0 y no marca la velocidad

How do I change from "KMH" to Miles

Push bottom button till "ODO" hold side button till "KMH" flash's. Then push bottom button to select "MH" and then hold side button till it goes back to speedometer.

Can not change from kmh to mph following holding mode and never get the arrow.

How to pair the speed

The Trek Incite 8i is a bicycle computer designed to provide cyclists with essential information about their ride. It is specifically built to deliver accurate readings and long-lasting performance. The Trek Incite 8i offers a clear and easy-to-read display, allowing riders to monitor their speed, distance, time, and cadence. This information is crucial for cyclists who want to track their progress or set specific training goals. The computer's display is designed to be visible in various lighting conditions, ensuring that riders can easily read their data regardless of the time of day or weather conditions. Featuring a sturdy construction, the Trek Incite 8i is designed to withstand the vibrations and impacts associated with cycling. This durability guarantees that the computer will continue to function properly, even when faced with challenging terrains or rough roads. Its rugged design also ensures that it can handle different weather conditions, making it a reliable companion for cycling enthusiasts. The Trek Incite 8i is equipped with wireless technology, eliminating the need for messy and tangled wires. This wireless capability simplifies installation and enables riders to have a clean and clutter-free bicycle setup. With its user-friendly interface, the Trek Incite 8i is straightforward to operate and navigate through its various features. It includes intuitive buttons that allow users to easily switch between functions and access the information they need without any confusion or difficulty. In summary, the Trek Incite 8i is a reliable and durable bicycle computer that provides accurate and essential ride information. Its clear display, sturdy construction, wireless capability, and user-friendly interface make it an ideal choice for cyclists of all levels.

Can't find the answer to your question in the manual? You may find the answer to your question in the FAQs about the Trek Incite 8i below.

A battery in my bicycle computer has started to corrode. Is the device still safe to use?

The product can still be used safely after proper cleaning. Remove the battery with gloves and clean the battery compartment with a toothbrush and vinegar. After drying, new batteries can be inserted into the device.

What is GPS?

GPS is a system that can be used all over the globe to determine your location by means of satellites.

What does the abbreviation GPS stand for?

The abbreviation GPS stands for 'Global Positioning System'.

Do I need internet for GPS?

No, no internet is required to receive GPS.

How do I reset the trip distance on my Trek Incite 8i?

To reset the trip distance on your Trek Incite 8i, navigate to the "Trip" screen by pressing the "Mode" button. Then, press and hold the "Reset" button until the trip distance is cleared to zero.

How can I change the display from kilometers per hour to miles per hour on my Trek Incite 8i?

To switch the display from kilometers per hour to miles per hour on your Trek Incite 8i, access the "Settings" menu by pressing and holding the "Mode" button. Then, use the up or down arrow buttons to select the unit of measurement you prefer, and press the "Mode" button again to confirm.

What should I do if there is no speed reading on my Trek Incite 8i?

If you are not getting a speed reading on your Trek Incite 8i, first ensure that the sensor and magnet are properly aligned and securely attached to your bike's wheel and frame. Additionally, check the wiring connections between the sensor and the head unit to ensure they are intact. If the issue persists, try replacing the batteries in both the sensor and head unit.

How do I set up the cadence function on my Trek Incite 8i?

To set up the cadence function on your Trek Incite 8i, first, ensure that you have the cadence sensor properly installed on your bike's crank arm. Then, access the "Settings" menu by pressing and holding the "Mode" button. Use the arrow buttons to navigate to the cadence setting and adjust it to your desired preferences.

Can I track my heart rate on the Trek Incite 8i?

Yes, you can track your heart rate on the Trek Incite 8i by pairing it with a compatible heart rate monitor. Make sure the heart rate monitor is properly connected and synced with the bike computer. Once connected, you can access the heart rate display by cycling through the screens using the "Mode" button.

Is the manual of the Trek Incite 8i available in English?

Yes, the manual of the Trek Incite 8i is available in English .

Is your question not listed? Ask your question here

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• Trek Manuals
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• Owner's manual

Trek Bicycle Computer Owner's Manual

• Owner's manual (41 pages)
• Installation instructions (4 pages)
• Owner's manual (24 pages)
• page of 40 Go / 40

Table of Contents

• Troubleshooting
• Safety and General Guidelines
• Placing the Computer on the Handlebar
• Placing the Magnet and Sensors
• Positioning of the Heart Rate Strap
• Easy Setup (Reset)
• Restart- Getting Ready to Ride
• Additional Information
• Replacing the Battery
• Wheel Size and Setting a Second Wheel
• Heart Rate Zone
• Limited Warranty

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Quick Links

• 1 Functions
• 2 Easy Setup (Reset)
• 3 Restart- Getting Ready to Ride
• 4 Replacing the Battery
• 7 Wheel Size and Setting a Second Wheel
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Summary of Contents for Trek Bicycle Computer

• Page 1 Trek InCITe ACH And ACH dIgITAl Bicycle Computer Owner’s Manual This manual explains the installa- tion and use of the Trek Incite ACH and ACH Digital bicycle computers. Please read this manual carefully and save it for future reference. If you do not understand the...

Page 2: Table Of Contents

Page 3: safety and general guidelines, page 4: functions.

• Page 5 GRAde Rato of elevaton gan to dstance expressed as percent- age. CuR- Current +/- ndcates uphll (+) or downhll (-) TRP AVG- Average grade snce last Restart TRP MAX- Maxmum grade snce last Restart HeART RATe Rate of heart n beats per mnute CuR- Current ACH dgtal (only) AVG- Average heart rate snce last ReSet...
• Page 6 SPeed Always dsplays Current speed of the bcycle n mles per hour (MPH) or klometers per hour (KPH) AVG- Average speed snce last Restart, dsplayed to tenths. MAX- Hghest value snce last Restart Hghest readngs: 80.5 mph or 29.6 kph TeMPeRATuRe Always dsplays Current temperature...

Page 7: Installation

Page 8: placing the computer on the handlebar.

• Page 9 Check that the computer base cannot be rotated around the handlebar, and that the computer cannot slide backwards on the computer base (Figure 5). To install the computer on the stem 1. Insert the rubber friction pad into the computer base, aligned along the computer base.

Page 10: Placing The Magnet And Sensors

• Page 11 To install the sensor These instructions are written for the cadence sensor, which goes on the frame’s left chainstay. The instructions apply equally to installing the ACH Digital cadence sensor or the wheel sensor on the fork- where there is no wire on the sensor. 1.
• Page 12 Fgure - Trm excess nylon te length installaton 06 Incite ACH 07_13.indd 10 5. With the computer in the computer base, check the alignment of the sensor and magnet by spinning the wheel and noting if the computer is displaying cadence (or for the wheel sensor, speed).

Page 13: Positioning Of The Heart Rate Strap

Page 14: easy setup (reset).

• Page 15 Choose a method to ReSet the computer: • Push any button to wake the computer from shipping mode • Push the ReSet button (AC) on the back of the computer • Install a new battery The Wheel select icon appears with a tire size: 700-23 (Figure 14).
• Page 16 To set units and Time This setting tells the computer which conversion to use: metric or SAE (“English”), which clock style to use (12-hour or 24-hour) and sets the time. Cycle Scroll • MPH for miles • KPH for kilometers Push Set•...
• Page 17 Cycle Scroll • 1, 2, 3, etc. from 1A through 12P (for 12-hour clock) • 1, 2, 3, etc. through 24 (for 24-hour clock) Push Set• to choose your setting. “00” flashes. Cycle Scroll • 00, 01, 02, 03, etc. through 59 Push Set•...
• Page 18 Cycle •Mode The PAIR? signal appears. 2. Make the wheel sensor send a signal (spin the bicycle wheel). 3. Place the computer within 3 feet (1 meter) of the sensor and Hold Set• button. The screen changes to PAIR... Set• 4.

Page 19: Restart- Getting Ready To Ride

Page 20: additional information, page 21: troubleshooting, page 22: replacing the battery.

• Page 23 To replace the computer battery 1. Remove the computer from its base. 2. Identify the battery cover, with its deep slot (a similar battery cover is found on the back, or skin-side, or the heart rate strap). 3. Insert a large coin into the slot and rotate in a counter-clockwise direction about one-quarter turn (Figure 18).

Page 24: Advanced Features

Page 25: units, page 26: clock, page 27: stopwatch, page 28: wheel size and setting a second wheel.

• Page 29 To set a custom wheel size Cycle •Mode Set• 2. Hold The wheel selection icon appears. Cycle Set• to a wheel: • Wheel 1 is a circle • Wheel 2 is a circle inside a semi-circle Push Scroll to select. A number representing tire size appears.
• Page 30 To measure rollout for wheel size Fgure 22- Measurng rollout for wheel sze that the valve stem is again directly over the floor. 4. Mark the new location of the valve stem. 5. Measure the distance between the marks, in millimeters. If you can only measure in inches, convert to millimeters by multiplying by 25.4.
• Page 31 To select the wheel size Cycle •Mode Cycle Scroll both left and right 3. Hold to change to your preferred setting (Figure 23): • Wheel 1 • Wheel 2 The computer returns to the TRP screen. 06 Incite ACH 07_13.indd 29 to ODOMETER.

Page 32: Speed

Page 33: odometer, page 34: cadence, page 35: altitude.

• Page 36 Set• 3. Hold The current elevation appears, and the + or - (above or below sea level) is flashing. Cycle Scroll Push Set• to select. The first digit flashes. 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until all digits have been set. The computer returns to the Altitude CUR screen.

Page 37: Grade

Page 38: heart rate, page 39: heart rate zone, page 40: limited warranty, this manual is also suitable for:, rename the bookmark, delete bookmark, delete from my manuals, upload manual.

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Troubleshooting Common e-Bike Problems: The Ultimate Guide

Maintaining an ebike in good working condition can be tricky business, especially if you’re a newbie ebike rider. 

An ebike will work smoothly only when all the parts are functioning properly. Luckily, not every hiccup with your electric bike means there’s a major problem. Sometimes, it just needs a bit of DIY maintenance.

Not to mention, many ebike owners don’t live near an electric bike service shop, so getting the job done themselves can be a lifesaver. In any case, knowing how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes is valuable information for anyone owning an electric bike or thinking about buying one. 

In this article, we’re sharing a full guide on how to troubleshoot common ebike problems to help you get back on the road in no time. So without further ado, let’s get started!

1. Troubleshooting the Battery

If your ebike won’t start or keeps cutting off, the issue can often be traced back to the battery. Even if you’re just doing a routine troubleshooting session, the battery on your ebike should be the first component to inspect. Here are some ways to troubleshoot battery problems:

Check the Voltage

The first thing you need to do is check the battery voltage. The LEDs on the control panel and the ebike should light up, if this doesn’t happen, then there’s a chance that the battery hasn’t been charged or there may have been a blown fuse. 

Checking the battery voltage can give you a clue as to whether or not the battery has been damaged.

You can check the voltage of an ebike using a voltmeter by simply attaching the prongs to the positive and negative sides of the prongs on the battery. Another way to get a reading is to fasten the voltmeter directly into the charger connector on the battery.

If you find that the battery power dies out too quickly, then the first you should do is determine how long the battery pack has been left without charging. Accordingly, you’ll be facing one of 2 scenarios:

• If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for 6 months or less, you may be able to recharge it successfully.
• If the battery pack hasn’t been charged for more than 6 months, then it’s probably defective. 

If you know that your ebike has been sitting in the garage for some time without recharging and when you try to start it, the battery loses power too quickly, then it’s safe to assume that the battery is defective and will require a replacement. 

If you’ve charged your ebike battery for less than 8 hours, try letting it charge for 8 hours and then check if the electric bike can run at full speed. We highly recommended not to leave the battery charger plugged into your electric bike for more than 12 hours. This is to avoid the risk of overcharging or damaging the battery if the charger malfunctions.

Check the Battery Charger

While you’re at it, you should also check the battery charger. You don’t need any tools to get this done; just plug the battery charger into the wall and see if one or more of the indicator lights are illuminated. 

If the indicator light doesn’t illuminate or even blink on and off when the charger is plugged into the wall, then you’re dealing with a defective charger. To test the output voltage of your battery charger, you can use a multimeter or voltmeter.

The voltage reading must be a few volts higher than the battery charger’s rated voltage. If the output on the battery charger is lower than the battery charger’s rated voltage or if it’s zero, then the battery charger is defective.

For example, if your ebike is equipped with a 36V battery but the voltmeter reads 10 volts, then the battery is faulty. In this case, it’s a good idea to check if your ebike is still under warranty. 

If so, then you can contact the manufacturer and file a warranty claim for replacement parts. But if not, then you should buy a new battery.

If the voltmeter reads a surface charge of more than 36V, then the battery is fully charged and you can try troubleshooting another component.

Check the Battery Management System

If your ebike keeps cutting off, one of the most common reasons for such hiccups is a failing battery. If your battery pack is particularly choking when under load, then the issue could be that the battery management system is shutting it off to protect your battery pack from overeating.

Typically, the battery management system will cut off the power if it senses the battery draining too fast below certain safe levels.

Often than not, a severe voltage drop means that one or more cells in your battery pack have been damaged. There are several reasons for such malfunction including aging, too frequent charge cycles, improper battery management, and a manufacturing defect. 

If you’re experiencing power cuts with a new ebike that you’re just starting to use, it might be because the pack has been sized, engineered, or manufactured with less than the required high current capacity for supporting heavy loads.

When cells fail, it’s usually due to being under severe loads. One way to solve this is by dropping the assist level and pedaling a little harder when going up steep inclines or hills. This should reduce the load on your battery.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is the possibility of your battery arriving already pre-aged. This can happen in lower-quality batteries that are typically installed in cheaper bikes because they’re made by recycling batteries from other older devices such as laptops.

To find out if your battery is the culprit behind the repeated choking of your ebike, try using it on a different reliable electric bike with the same setup as yours. The same problem should happen if the battery is faulty. 

If you’ve owned your ebike for a few years and you’ve used it almost every day, the frequent rides may have just pushed the battery pack towards the natural end of its lifespan. Here, buying a new pack from the manufacturer will solve the issue.

Check the Battery Prongs

A failing battery can be the result of improper lining up of its prongs. If this is the case, the electrical circuit can’t be completed so no power will be produced.

Using a wrench, you can easily fix this issue by slightly bending the prongs to realign them into the correct position.

Check the Battery Charger Port

Additionally, you need to check the battery charger port. Be sure to first unplug the battery charger if it’s plugged into the wall. 

Next, plug the battery charger into the battery charger port on your ebike and observe the indicator light on the battery charger. If the indicator light illuminates when the charger is plugged into the electric bike, then the wiring and the wiring connectors going to the charger port as well the charger port itself are working.

If you have a voltmeter or a multimeter, you can test the voltage of the battery charger port. The level of the voltage measured at the charging port must be the same as the one rater for the battery pack. 

Alternatively, you can test the battery pack on another reliable electric bike where you ride the ebike at full throttle on flat ground. Note how long the battery pack will last. 

On flat ground, most ebikes have a battery range somewhere between 30 and 45 minutes. If your battery pack lasts less than 30 to 20 minutes, chances are it’s worn out and you have to replace it. Severely worn out batteries have a maximum range of 5 to 10 minutes.

• If your ebike features a headlight, you can perform a load test by fastening an arch-shaped piece of cardboard over the headlight so you can see the beam from the headlight while riding.

From here, you can fully charge the battery pack and ride your ebike with the headlight on. Keep an eye out for the headlight’s beam shining on the cardboard. 

If the battery is good, the headlight will dim just a bit when you give the ebike full throttle. If the beam on the headlight dims severely when you give the ebike full throttle, then you’ll know that the battery is worn out.

• If you can get your hands on a multimeter, you can perform a battery load test while your ebike is running. Start by fully charging the battery, then jack up the rear wheel by connecting the multimeter to the battery. Give the electric bike full throttle while engaging the brake on the rear without locking it up. 

When you engage the rear brake, the battery pack will go through a load so you can then read the voltage and find out how much it drops. If the battery is working well, the voltage will drop by a few volts only. Otherwise, the voltage will massively drop. 

2. Troubleshooting the Brake Motor Inhibitor

If you’ve dropped your ebike, then a part of the handlebars may have been damaged. You can easily spot this by visually inspecting your handlebars and brake levers for signs of any cosmetic damage. 

If you find that the brakes have been pulled back because of damage and can’t seem to break free, this will cause the motor inhibitor switch to stay turned on. To get your ebike running again, you’ll need to fix the jammed brake levers.

If the damage is significant, then the switch itself may require replacing. Such a process will need the skills of an expert electric bike mechanic.

• Some people may suggest that you use your controller to figure out which wires are for the brake inhibitor so you can disconnect them completely to get rid of the problem. However, we stress that you never do that as it can be extremely dangerous on the road.

If your brakes aren’t functioning properly, then you should check the shoes or the brake pads for signs of wear. If they’re damaged or worn out, replace them right away. You should also check the brake cable tension and adjust it if necessary.

If you find the brake pads or the brake shoes in good condition then you may want to tighten the brake cable adjuster on the brake lever or the brake itself until the brake becomes more responsive. Make sure that the brakes aren’t rubbing on the rotor or rim when the brake lever is released. 

Once you’ve adjusted the brake cable adjusters to the end of their limits, screw them all the way in. Then, tighten the brake cable by loosening the brake cable stopper, pulling the brake cable tight, and re-tightening the brake cable stopper. 

You can make a final adjustment to the brake cable tension by unthreading the brake cable adjuster until you get the right tension. 

• It’s crucial to your and others safety that you maintain the braking system; keep discs and rims clean and straight, promptly replace any worn-out brake shoes and pads, replace frayed or worn cables and housings, and lightly lubricate brake pivot points.

3. Troubleshooting the Controller

Think of the controller as the processor of your ebike operating system. As a result, it’s also one of the most common reasons why your electric bike may not be working properly. 

The controller’s job is to take input signals from all the controls and sensors on the ebike, analyze them, and then determine the best way to transfer the power coming from the battery to the motor.

Since the controller serves a huge yet sensitive purpose in the functioning of an ebike, the slightest technical glitch could ruin the established balance in any aspect including power transfer and distribution. 

Inspect your controller for any wires that may be loose, disconnected, or misconnected. If you do see disconnected cables, reconnect them to the proper port. In general, the wires should be color-coded so you can match the same color wire with the same color the outlet.

If the controller doesn’t work at all, make sure that the power switch is turned on. Also, check the fuse or circuit breaker.

If your ebike comes with a circuit breaker, you can reset the circuit breaker by pushing the breaker. However, you should be aware of any problems that may pop up as circuit breakers are designed to protect the system and there could already be an ongoing problem that’ll seriously damage components.

For ebikes with a fuse, you can simply remove it and hold it against some light to see if it’s burned out. If so, replace the fuse.

4. Troubleshooting the Throttle

A lot of ebikes on the market come with throttle control. If you overuse the throttle control, it may get stuck when pulled back and won’t return to the off position on its own.

If you do this repeatedly, the throttle will eventually loosen or get damaged. If this happens, you’ll tend to experience power cut-offs. 

The safest way to use the twist throttle is to pull it back and then slowly release it back into its original position once you’re done.

If the throttle is feeling loose or missing out on strokes from time to time, you can just replace it after testing whether or not it’s receiving steady power. This way you’ll know for sure that your throttle is to blame.

5. Troubleshooting the Pedal Assist

Malfunctions of the power or pedal assist system on your ebike may cause issues associated with pulsating or occasional power cut-offs. Different ebike models feature different pedal assist systems; some are built around the front sprocket chainring while others are built into the bottom bracket.

If you’ve recently made mechanical adjustments to the wheels, pedals, sprockets, derailleurs, and so on, this could be why you’re encountering power supply hiccups. Another reason for such issues could be the ring of magnets on the front sprocket; the sensors may be out of alignment due to being dirty or knocked around.

You can adjust the pedal-assist magnet position using a flathead screwdriver to push the disc nearer to the sensors. If this doesn’t work and you’re having a hard time determining whether or not your pedal assist system is faulty, it’s best to take your ebike to an electric bike service shop so they can remove and replace the faulty parts.

6. Troubleshooting the Motor Connections

As we mentioned earlier, loose wire connections are one of the most common reasons why you may be experiencing issues with your ebike. As such, the wires connected to the rear hub motor can often get loose, frayed, or damaged over time. 

If the wires are loose, you’ll probably have to replace the loose or damaged portions. Check if there are any melted or burned wires connected to the rear hub motor. 

Melted or burned wires are a sign of overheating. If the insulation on the copper coil wires melts due to overheating, occasional short circuits may occur causing the power to cut off. 

If the coils in the motor keep overheating, you’re potentially risking the motor’s integrity and may end up having to replace the motor to avoid damaging the controller.

Check the motor’s power transmission system for missing parts. Worn-out, missing, or damaged components could lead to problems in power transmission resulting in unwanted interruptions of power flow. 

There you have it, a comprehensive guide on how to troubleshoot common problems of ebikes. Even though DIY maintenance can be easy to perform, it’s still best to bring your electric bike to a service shop if you’re not fully confident in your skills.

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