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Suites & Staterooms

Please select your stateroom or suite type and room category from the available options.

  • Daily housekeeping
  • Complimentary 24-hour room service
  • Elemis Aromapure soap, lotion, shampoo
  • Luxurious bathrobes
  • Hair dryers, makeup mirrors
  • Generous storage
  • Fresh fruit upon request
  • Ice service
  • TV with On Demand movies, programming

Two lower beds convertible to one queen-size bed—our signature Mariner's Dream™ bed with plush Euro-Top mattresses, premium massage shower heads and a host of amenities are featured in these comfortable staterooms.

These expansive staterooms include include two lower beds convertible to one queen-size bed—our Signature Mariner's Dream™ bed with plush Euro-Top mattresses, premium massage shower heads, a host of amenities and an ocean view.

Sliding glass doors (mirrored for privacy) open onto our Promenade deck from this comfortable stateroom, which includes two lower beds convertible to one queen-size bed—our Signature Mariner's Dream™ bed with plush Euro-Top mattresses, premium massage shower heads and other amenities.

Vista Suite

  • Whirlpool bath

With a verandah, floor-to-ceiling windows and comfortable sitting area, these comfortable suites are filled with light. They include two lower beds convertible to one queen-size bed—our signature Mariner's Dream™ bed with plush Euro-Top mattresses, plus a whirlpool bath and shower, mini-bar and refrigerator.

Neptune Suite

  • Premium bathrobes, slippers
  • Fresh flowers
  • One-Touch concierge service
  • In-suite coffee, espresso
  • Complimentary laundry
  • Pre-dinner hors d'oeuvres served in suite
  • Welcome glass of sparkling wine
  • Priority boarding for tender ports, priority dining/seating requests, special disembarkation service
  • High tea in suite on request
  • Exclusive tote bag

With floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a private verandah, these spacious suites are flooded with light. They feature a large sitting area and two lower beds convertible to one king-size bed—our signature Mariner's Dream™ bed with plush Euro-Top mattresses. The bathroom comes with a dual-sink vanity, full-size whirlpool bath and shower, plus additional shower stall. Amenities include use of the exclusive Neptune Lounge, a private concierge and an array of complimentary services.

Your Ship: Volendam

Volendam boasts regal spaces adorned with floral fabrics, botanical tapestries, and eye-catching flower arrangements. This refined ship is perfectly sized for creating an intimate atmosphere while bringing you closer to the wondrous land-, sea-, and cityscapes that await. Relax with a treatment at our award-winning Spa & Salon. Or dine in one of our fine restaurants.

  • 1432 Guests
  • 781 ft. Length
  • 105.8 ft. Width

Dining & Onboard Activities

Each day on board offers delicious dining options, world-class entertainment and enriching activities

Pinnacle Grill

The ultimate steakhouse at sea, with an exceptional menu of Prime steaks, seafood and wine.

Pinnacle Grill is the ultimate steakhouse at sea, where an exceptional menu and impeccable service make for one of finest meals you’ll ever have. The refined menu features a selection of 28-day wet-aged USDA Prime steaks — meticulously chosen to guarantee the finest quality — as well as classic steakhouse dishes and innovative recipes from James Beard Award-winning chef and Culinary Council® member, David Burke. Every dish is exquisitely prepared, beautifully plated and complemented by a vast collection of award-winning wines. Here, your meal is an event unto itself, a celebration of fine dining and a triumph of flavor.

*Meals at Pinnacle Grill are half price for kids 12 years old or under, or free when they order from the kids’ menu.

Canaletto is a relaxed setting with authentic Italian cuisine that is best enjoyed when shared.

In Italy, there’s nothing more important than coming together to celebrate the joy of great food. This is the inspiration for our onboard Italian restaurant, Canaletto. Enjoy amazing Italian classics like braised chicken cacciatore al forno, branzino ai ferri or garlic shrimp ravioli. And for dessert: tiramisù, cannoli alla Siciliana, gelato, and more. Including pasta made fresh daily. Buon Appetito!

Meals at Canaletto are half price for kids 12 years old or under, or free when they order from the kids’ menu.

Lido Market

A casual, modern marketplace, Lido Market offers the widest range of food options on board for breakfast, lunch, dinner and a late-night snack.

Explore a world of intriguing culinary possibilities in the Lido Market. Steps from the Lido pool, this modern marketplace includes a curated selection of delicious options that you can grab on the go or have made to order: Breadboard, with freshly baked breads and pastries; Wild Harvest, offering a bountiful selection of hearty salads; Homestead, serving up comfort classics; Distant Lands, featuring global cuisine; Sweet Spot, for ice cream creations and desserts; Roasting Pan, hand-carved meats, fish and other hearty entrees; Perk, freshly brewed beverages and chilled juices; Quench, premium coffee, beer, wine, and soda available for purchase; Rise, savory quiches, croissants and sandwiches, and more.

This casual poolside grill serves up the best burgers at sea, Nathan’s Famous gourmet hot dogs, golden French fries and more.

Dive-In offers a variety of casual culinary classics, using the highest quality ingredients. Enjoy a burger, grilled to perfection and served on a toasted brioche with our own trade-marked secret sauce. Savor a succulent Nathan’s Famous gourmet hot dog with golden French fries. Or choose a grilled chicken breast sandwich or juicy portabella mushroom stack. Dive-In is the perfect spot to dine poolside on the best burgers at sea.

24-Hour Room Service

Enjoy breakfast in bed or an early dinner on your verandah — entrées and more are available whenever you wish.

Sleep in and have breakfast delivered. Enjoy an early dinner on your verandah before an evening excursion. Order a salad, sandwich or entrée any time. Room Service is only a phone call away. All selections are included in your cruise fare unless otherwise noted on the in-room menu.

The Dining Room

Our flagship dining experience is a welcoming and sophisticated setting for an exquisite breakfast, lunch or superb multicourse dinner.

For an elegant breakfast, leisurely lunch or unforgettable multi-course dinner, The Dining Room is your destination. For dinner, choose from classics such as Boneless Lamb Loin en Croute, Rosemary Roasted Chicken, as well as regionally inspired cuisine and artfully prepared vegetarian dishes. 

Crow's Nest

BARS AND LOUNGES

Enjoy cocktails and sunsets in this lounge, featuring panoramic views.

Holland America Line offers you a wide selection of lounges onboard. The panoramic view takes center stage in The Crow's Nest at the top of the ship, where you can relax just about any time of day and enjoy your favorite drink.

Explorer's Lounge

Elegant and refined, stop by for a glass of wine or your favorite cocktail.

The Explorer’s Lounge is an elegant and refined space to enjoy a glass of wine, a cocktail, or your favorite liqueur.

Enjoy a mix of three specialty bars: Champagne, Martinis, Spirits and Ales.

Holland America Line offers you a wide selection of lounges and gathering places onboard. Explore Mix for Champagne, Martinis, and Spirits and Ales.

Enjoy cocktails and ocean views while listening to live music.

Holland America Line offers you a wide selection of lounges. This popular bar is at the top of the atrium and is the perfect locale for cocktails and dancing.

World Stage

ENTERTAINMENT

World Stage features innovative cruise ship shows and a two-story LED screen that creates a vivid wraparound display.

World Stage, the largest theater on board is home to a variety of performances day and night. Our exclusive EXC® Talk lecture series features captivating regional stories told by local experts and narrated by your Cruise & Travel Director. In the evenings, Step One Dance Company, vocal sensation Cantaré, BBC Earth in Concert and more take the stage.  Koningsdam, Nieuw Statendam  and  Rotterdam  bring the World Stage experience to the next level by surrounding you in spectacular sight and sound with a two-story, panoramic LED screen.

Onboard Shopping

Enjoy a wide variety of duty-free shopping onboard.

Enjoy a wide variety of duty-free shopping in such signature shops as The Vault, Diamonds and Gemstones by Merabella, which offers the best diamonds at sea, brought to you by Effy.

Fitness Center

Take a class in our professionally staffed Fitness Center.

Stop by the professionally staffed Fitness Center equipped with the latest cardio and weight machines. Try one of our classes on indoor cycling, Pilates and more or work out at your own pace. You can also head out for fresh air and exercise on deck, where you'll find basketball and volleyball courts, and two refreshing pools (available on select ships). Some classes may have a nominal fee.

Holland America Line Navigator

Personalize your cruise experience with our free mobile-friendly tool.

Personalize your cruise experience once you’re on the ship with our free mobile-friendly tool. Plan your daily activities, browse and purchase shore excursions, view restaurant menus, make dining reservations, check your account balance and more. 

Casino Action

The Casino offers games for all levels.

Your Holland America Line ship’s Casino offers a wide array of gaming options. Whether you prefer slot machines or want to try your hand at blackjack or poker, our dealers and staff are available to provide complimentary instruction — and we offer many engaging tournament options. The Casino is only open at sea.

Pickleball at Sea

Enjoy complimentary lessons, tournaments, and courts with amazing top-deck views.

Play the fastest-growing sport in the U.S. with Holland America Line, the exclusive cruise line partner of the Professional Pickleball Association. All our cruise ships feature pickleball courts with amazing top-deck views. The equipment and courts are available for a match anytime, so long as the weather allows. Frequent pickler? Join a pickleball tournament at sea and put your dink shot to the test. Hesitant amateur? Learn the basics at complimentary beginner’s lessons, starting in spring 2023. Commemorative starter kits will soon be available in our retail shops — purchase as gifts for avid players or as souvenirs, so that you can always look back on your pickleball cruise memories.

Kids ages 3 to 17 can enjoy an array of activities. Registration required for children under 13.

Holland America Line's youth activities program, Kids Club, offers an array of entertaining events for kids and teens ages 3-17, supervised by a full-time, professionally trained staff. They'll have an opportunity to join other kids their age for arts and crafts, sports, video game competitions, scavenger hunts, challenging team games and themed parties. Note: Kids Club is not offered on cruises of 25-days or longer, including all Legendary and Grand Voyages. We will offer a selection of children’s activities throughout these longer voyages for any children who may be onboard.

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Caribbean's Leading Cruise Line.

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Experience Caribbean Cruising With Norwegian

^Buy an air ticket and the 2nd guest flies for free. *View for full terms and conditions.

Destination Update : Rebuilding efforts are underway for just a few of our beautiful ports. The rest of the Caribbean is ready to welcome you. Learn more.

NORWEGIANS REMEMBER THE GOOD TIMES.

NORWEGIANS REMEMBER THE GOOD TIMES.

Norwegian Cruise Line

Southern Caribbean Cruises

SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN CRUISES

Western Caribbean Cruises

Caribbean Cruises From Miami | Cruises & Cruise Deals

Eastern Caribbean Cruises

Eastern Caribbean Cruises From Miami | Cruises & Cruise Deals

New Caribbean Cruises

NEW! Caribbean Cruises from Galveston, Texas

Be the first to sail The Caribbean on board Norwegian Prima, our first ship in the new Prima class. Cruise from Galveston, Texas starting and experience incredible ports like Harvest Caye, Belize and Great Stirrup Cay, Norwegian's Private Island. With 7- and 14-day sailings from this convenient departure port, you can explore the best of The Caribbean on the first of a new class of ships designed to elevate every expectation.

Caribbean Cruises 2021

More Caribbean than You Can Imagine

Once you’ve seen one island, you have to see them all. Paradise awaits on Harvest Caye, off the coast of Belize, where you can soar from island to ocean on a 3,000-foot zipline. Or keep it colourful with the colonial architecture in Curaçao. Whichever beautiful port you choose, there's always a reason to come back to The Caribbean with Norwegian. Cruise out of New York , Miami , Tampa, New Orleans , San Juan , and more. With 11 convenient departure ports, escaping to paradise has never been easier.

Short Caribbean Cruises

Short Caribbean Cruises

Looking for a quick getaway? Norwegian has you covered. Take a break from your morning commute and instead climb a waterfall in Ocho Rios, or ride horseback along the pristine coastline in Puerto Plata, Costa Rica. Whether you thirst for natural beauty, fascinating history, or just Caribbean rum, there’s something for everybody on our short Caribbean cruises.

Caribbean Cruise Image Gallery

  • Caribbean Sea
  • Jungle Excursion in Roatan, Honduras
  • Georgetown, Barbados
  • Harvest Caye, Belize
  • El Morro, San Juan, Puerto Rico
  • Flamingos in Aruba
  • Bridgetown, Barbados

Cruises to Saint Lucia

Explore Caribbean Cruise Ports

caribbean cruises jan 23

Caribbean HOTELS

  • PUNTA CANA (LA ROMANA)
  • NEW ORLEANS

The Tremont House

The Tremont House is a warm slice of Southern charm, with historic features and classic beauty to delight and comfort weary travelers. We offer our guests quality, luxury accommodations in the vibrant historic downtown of one of the most popular destinations along the Texas coast. Our rooms feature high ceilings, hardwood floors, and custom-crafted furnishings, all designed to make your stay warm, elegant, and unforgettable. A one-of-a-kind amongst Galveston hotels, our boutique hotel creates a relaxing ambiance you can appreciate whilst holidaying or conducting business.

Designed with comfort in mind, our beds are soft, welcoming, and covered in quality linens and fluffy pillows. We take extra precautions to ensure your room is clean, sanitary, and safe. We want you to get the most out of your stay in the magnificent coastal city of Galveston.

At The Tremont House we offer a dining experience that features more than outstanding flavours. Our Rooftop Bar features incredible views of Galveston's downtown and the harbour. Meet up with friends or business associates for a relaxing drink as you drink in the breathtaking scenery. For bistro-style food, stop by our Tremont Café. Stop into our 1888 Toujouse Bar on Fridays and Saturdays to listen to live jazz as you order from a menu of locally brewed craft beer and 16 different martinis.

Phone: (409) 763-0300

Distance/Airport: 70 miles - George Bush Intercontinental/Houston Airport (IAH) 70 miles - William P. Hobby Airport (HOU) Distance/Pier: 0.5 miles

Package includes: Room and room tax Bellman gratuities Transfers between Hotel and Pier

Important Note: Accommodations are based on double occupancy per room. Some accommodation will allow triple and quad guests in a room and are subject to availability and surcharge will apply. Additional hotel rooms to accommodate triple and quads may be required, and surcharge will apply.

caribbean cruises jan 23

Caribe Hilton Hotel

Information Admire ocean and tropical garden views from Caribe Hilton, one of the most famous hotels in Puerto Rico. Set on a secluded peninsula with 17 acres of lush foliage, this San Juan resort is situated between historic Old San Juan and the culturally rich Condado area of San Juan. With no passport required for US citizens, Caribe Hilton is an easy Caribbean getaway.

Distance/Airport: 7 miles Distance/Pier: 3 miles

Important Note: Accommodations are based on double occupancy per room.

caribbean cruises jan 23

New York Marriott Marquis

There is no city quite like New York City, and no hotel quite like New York Marriott Marquis. Set in the heart of Times Square on West 46th Street and Broadway, our iconic hotel lets you experience all the magic of New York from the moment you arrive. Feel the energy all around you, both within the hotel and as soon as you step outside. Inside our towering hotel, you'll find some of New York City's largest hotel rooms and suites, multiple restaurants - including the only revolving restaurant in the city and our new outdoor lounge -100,000 square feet of meeting and event space and a knowledgeable staff to help you navigate this expansive and ever-changing city.

There is no city quite like New York City, and no hotel quite like New York Marriott Marquis. Set in the heart of Times Square on West 46th Street and Broadway, our iconic hotel lets you experience all the magic of New York from the moment you arrive. Feel the energy all around you, both within the hotel and as soon as you step outside. Inside our towering hotel, you'll find some of New York City's largest hotel rooms and suites, multiple restaurants - including the only revolving restaurant in the city and our new outdoor lounge -100,000 square feet of meeting and event space and a knowledgeable staff to help you navigate this expansive and ever-changing city. Whether visiting for a family holiday, romantic getaway or attending a conference, the New York Marriott Marquis is truly the perfect hotel for your stay in New York City.

  • Distance/Airport: 20 miles (JFK) / 12 miles (LGA) / 20 miles Distance/Pier: 1.5 miles
  • Room and room tax Bellman gratuities Transfers between Hotel and Pier

caribbean cruises jan 23

Falcon's Resort By Melia

At Falcon's Resort by Meliá, experiences and memories are created that guests will treasure for a lifetime. The Resort goes beyond the usual entertainment offerings by seeing the world differently. Discover "Resortaiment," a seamlessly blend of premium resort amenities with extraordinary entertainment experiences in a way that is casual, sophisticated, and fun for everyone.

The Hotel offers dazzling beaches, lounge-worthy pools to immersive entertainment and world-class dining.

  • Telephone: 809 726 9600
  • Distance/Airport: Punta Cana International Airport (PUJ) ‐ 22.13 km/ 13.75 miles
  • Distance/Pier: 89.32 km/ 55.5 miles
  • Room and Room Tax
  • Bellman/ Porter gratuities
  • Transfers between Hotel and Pier

Important Note: Accommodations are based on double occupancy per room. Some accommodations will allow triple and quad guests in a room and are subject to availability and a surcharge will apply. Additional hotel rooms to accommodate triple and quads may be required, and a surcharge will apply.

caribbean cruises jan 23

Hilton New Orleans Riverside

Connected by a walkway to The Outlet Collection at Riverwalk, this upscale convention hotel overlooking the Mississippi River is an 18-minute walk from the French Quarter and 2 miles from I-10. Warm rooms feature flat-screens and Wi-Fi (fee). Upgraded rooms add city or river views, along with free WI-Fi, breakfast and gym access. Studios have sitting areas and minifridges, whilst suites offer living rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows.

Connected by a walkway to The Outlet Collection at Riverwalk, this upscale convention hotel overlooking the Mississippi River is an 18-minute walk from the French Quarter and 2 miles from I-10. Warm rooms feature flat-screens and Wi-Fi (fee). Upgraded rooms add city or river views, along with free WI-Fi, breakfast and gym access. Studios have sitting areas and minifridges, whilst suites offer living rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows. There's a renowned seafood restaurant, a cafe and a piano bar. Other amenities include a gym, 2 outdoor pools and an indoor tennis court. Convention facilities include over 130,000 sq ft of meeting space.

  • Distance/Airport: 15 miles Distance/Pier: 0.8 miles

Read THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT Caribbean Cruises

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Go for the Thrill

From speedboat adventures to deep sea fishing, and even a dune buggy safari, The Caribbean is prime with thrilling activities.

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Top 10 Beaches in the Caribbean

When you cruise to the Caribbean, a day on the beach is a must. Use this guide to help you pick which spot to visit on your next cruise.

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Packing Tips for Your Caribbean Cruise

Here's what to pack for your Caribbean cruise holiday.

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Visit The Caribbean Without a Passport

Learn more about cruising to The Caribbean without a passport.

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Find the perfect Caribbean Island for you!

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Eat Like a Local

Taste your way through the southern Caribbean with these local favourites.

The Best Caribbean Cruises 2023—With Stops at Rugged Volcanic Islands, Tropical Forests, and Serene Beaches

By Scott Laird

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All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Caribbean cruises have long been a favorite with travelers for their picture-postcard attributes. White sand beaches front turquoise waters. But these tropical itineraries have something for every type of traveler. Activities abound—perhaps it’s shopping on one island, hiking through nature reserves and snorkeling among coral reefs on another, or having a beach day on a cruise company’s private retreat. Many Caribbean itineraries skew toward tried-and-true standards, but a number of cruise lines will have a handful of unique sailings put together for particular tastes or the seasoned cruiser who has already tried them all.

Some of these sailings visit offbeat destinations like volcanic Montserrat, while others take a non-traditional southern track from Panama along the northern coast of South America. Others visit sleepier, less-frequented destinations like St. Croix, St. Barts, and Mayreau, in addition to stopping at banner spots like St. Lucia and Aruba for dramatic vistas and spectacular beaches.

Here are some of the best Caribbean cruises to book for 2023.

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Seven Seas Splendor ventures to some of the Caribbean's most iconic isles.

Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Itinerary: Sunny Beaches & Emerald Forests

Departure: March 11, 2023

Experience: This 10-night sailing from Miami embarks on Regent Seven Seas' newest ship, Seven Seas Splendor , for a leisurely sail through the Caribbean’s windward isles. Hike to waterfalls in Puerto Plata in the Dominican Republic, explore Puerto Rico’s El Yunque National Forest, or relax on a sailboat excursion off minute St. Barts , which Splendor is right-sized to visit. Take an aerial tram through the rainforest canopy on St. Lucia or snorkel Champagne Reef on Dominica, watching bubbles and warmth rise from geothermal activity beneath the ocean floor. Excursions are included in the cruise fare with Regent—as are beverages, gratuities, transfers, specialty dining, Wi-Fi, and laundry service.

Itinerary: Panama, Colombia, & Caribbean Islands

Departure: March 9 and 17, 2023

Experience: Voyage from the gates of the Panama Canal to the French West Indies, with a wealth of diversity in between. Experience Afro-Caribbean heritage in Portobelo, Panama, and Indigenous Kuna fishing communities in the San Blas Islands. Next, it’s on to Cartagena de Indias, Colombia, and then the coral reefs of Bonaire for diving. The spices of Grenada and St. Lucia’s volcanic pitons round out the itinerary before the intimately appointed ship Le Bellot (with fewer than 92 staterooms and suites) anchors in the turquoise waters of Fort-de-France for a fond farewell.

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Celebrity Beyond 's Luminae Restaurant

Celebrity Cruises

Itinerary: Southern Caribbean

Departure: December 11, 2023

Experience: Offering a little of everything, this 11-night roundtrip from Fort Lauderdale includes calls at cobblestoned Cartagena, Colombia, the white-sand beaches of Aruba, and the famous colonial houses and swinging drawbridge of Curaçao. As an added bonus, Grand Cayman and Falmouth, Jamaica, also appear as ports to help break up the long journey south from Florida. The sailing takes place onboard the brand-new Celebrity Beyond , packed full of original art, Infinite Veranda staterooms—so-named for the floor-to-ceiling windows that open into a private balcony at the push of a button—and ocean-going gastronomy at Le Voyage, Chef Daniel Boulud’s first signature restaurant at sea.

Windstar Cruises

Itinerary: Windward Ways & Tobago Cays

Departure: January, February, November, and December 2023

Experience: Almost purpose-designed for cruisers who prefer their shore excursions to be on or in the water, this seven-day sailing onboard Windstar's Star Legend starts in the Dutch islands, offering up serene Aruba’s white-sand beaches and tranquil Bonaire’s 50 species of coral. “Isle of Spice” Grenada is next (nutmeg ice cream is a must-try), followed by spectacular vistas of the Grand Pitons on “seven times French; seven times British” St. Lucia. Mayreau is the smallest of the Grenadines—here cruisers can enter the water directly from Star Legend’s water-sports platform, then wind up the day with a private beach barbecue.

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Valiant Lady will operate Caribbean cruises in spring and winter 2023.

Virgin Voyages

Itinerary: Eastern Caribbean Antilles

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Departure: January, February, March, November, and December 2023

Experience: St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands is a less-trafficked port of call known as the “Garden of the Antilles” and Valiant Lady drops in during her Eastern Caribbean sailings, in addition to San Juan , Puerto Plata, and a day at Virgin’s lounge-y Beach Club at Bimini private island. Onboard, Wi-Fi and “essential” non-alcoholic drinks and gratuities are included on the adults-only ship, which touts over 20 eateries and a number of inventive ways to find a glass of champagne.

Holland America Line

Itinerary: 11 Day Panama Canal Sunfarer

Departure: March 14, 2023

Experience: Part Caribbean surf, part jungle excursion, this 11-day roundtrip from Fort Lauderdale onboard Eurodam calls first at Aruba and Curaçao for a taste of Holland America Line’s namesake Dutch culture before skirting the coast of South America for several days of scenic cruising the Panama Canal and Gatun Lake, taking in the maximum biodiversity (over 500 species of birds) of the Canal Zone, juxtaposed with the engineering wonders of the lock system.

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A Signature Suite on board Evrima

Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection

Itinerary: Bridgetown Roundtrip 7 Nights

Departure: March 19 and November 19, 2023

Experience: Ritz-Carlton has drawn on their vaunted properties to design everything from onboard dining to shore excursions on board the all-suite Evrima . Guests can visit Grenada’s Tower Estate to sample their famous blue tea, made from estate-grown butterfly peaflower, with cucumber sandwiches, cupcakes, and fresh fruit picked onsite. On Bequia, in the Grenadines, it might be a windjammer excursion to nearby Mustique for a seaside lunch, or a private car and driver arranged at one of the ports.

Silversea Cruises

Itinerary: 9 Day Bridgetown to San Juan

Departure: February 18, 2023

Experience: When not luxuriating onboard Silversea’s newest ship, the all-suite Silver Dawn , passengers might explore this itinerary’s most unique destination: Montserrat. Once a favored haunt of the jet-set, volcanic activity that earned it the nickname “The Pompeii of the Caribbean” has kept tourism development low-key, and visitors few, but cruisers on this itinerary will discover an Emerald Isle reminiscent of Ireland, and some of the Caribbean’s most beautiful, secluded beaches. Unspoiled Deshaies, on Guadeloupe, is another under-the-radar call for this spectacular ship boasting butler service in every suite and a guest-to-crew ratio of nearly one-to-one.

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A suite onboard Norwegian Prima

Norwegian Cruise Line

Itinerary: Caribbean: Harvest Caye, Cozumel, & Roatan from Galeveston

Departure: December 15, 22, and 29, 2023

Experience: In December 2023, the new Norwegian Prima begins sailing the Riviera Maya from Galveston, also including port calls at resort-like Harvest Caye in Belize , where guests can rent private cabanas, and Roatan, in Honduras’s Bay Islands, home to a large Gumbalimba eco-preserve and animal sanctuary. Onboard, Norwegian has enhanced The Haven, the VIP suite area on this ship, with some the largest suite accommodations in the fleet, and all public areas in the suite enclave now have ocean views.

Princess Cruises

Itinerary: 5 Day Caribbean Getaway with Grand Turk

Departure: October 31, 2023

Experience: Not all Caribbean cruises need to be a week or two in duration. Princess Cruises offers a Halloween weekend getaway onboard Caribbean Princess that’s just five nights in duration, with two unbeatable ports—Grand Turk, and Princess Cays, the line’s private island in the Bahamas. A highlight of this seasonal sailing can be sitting in the ship’s piazza, watching festive passengers promenade their inventive costumes for spooky onboard revelry—a Princess tradition dating back to the days of the original “Love Boat” series.

Booking tips for Caribbean cruises

What are the best months to take a caribbean cruise.

Although some cruise lines operate in the Caribbean year-round, the widest selection of sailing dates and itineraries can be found between November and March.

What part of the Caribbean is best for a cruise?

The best Caribbean cruise is a matter of personal taste. Many cruises focus on a region, like the Southern, Eastern, or Western Caribbean, and itineraries, regardless of destination, often feature stops at cruise line operated private islands in the Bahamas.

What are the cheapest months to cruise in the Caribbean?

Generally, the beginning and end of the November-to-March season can be affordable—any time when North American schools are widely in session are also good times to cruise for lower fares.

Do you need a passport to go to on a Caribbean cruise?

Check with the cruise line before booking. U.S. citizens traveling on cruises calling at most Caribbean countries can do so with both an enhanced state ID and an original birth certificate in lieu of a passport, but a passport is by far the easiest form of identification (and most strongly recommended by both the U.S. State Department and most cruise lines) for U.S. citizens outside the country. It’s also important to note that documentation requirements can change, and passengers are ultimately responsible for having the required documents at embarkation or they may be denied boarding.

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Icon of the Seas - January 23, 2024

Icon of the Seas

January 23, 2024

January 23 - 26, 2024

Icon of the Seas

Icon of the Seas

Royal Caribbean

Royal Caribbean Icon of the Seas Inaugural

Royal Caribbean Icon of the Seas Inaugural

from Miami, Florida

The January 23, 2024 cruise on the Icon of the Seas departs from Miami, Florida. On this Royal Caribbean Icon of the Seas Inaugural sailing, the ship will visit a total of 2 different cruise port destinations, including its departure port. The Icon of the Seas sets sail on a Tuesday (January 23, 2024) and returns on a Friday (January 26, 2024).

The Icon of the Seas was built in 2023 and is amoung Royal Caribbean's 27 ships in it's fleet. The Icon of the Seas is included in the cruise line's Icon Class. In the cruise ship stats below you'll find the Icon of the Seas vs all other Royal Caribbean ships.

All Itineraries

Day 1: At Sea

Explore all that Miami has to offer, from the magnificent Port of Miami, to the world famous Everglades and Biscayne National Parks, historic Coconut Grove, and trendy South Beach. Other attractions include the Miami Seaquarium , Miami MetroZoo, and sports teams the Dolphins, Heat and Marlins. No wonder so many celebrities, such as Gloria Estefan, Madonna and Ricky Martin, call Miami home.

Explore all that Miami has to offer, from the magnificent Port of Miami, to the world famous Everglades and Biscayne National Parks, historic Coconut Grove, and trendy South Beach. Other attractions...

Day 2: At Sea

Perfect Day At Coco Cay

Day 3: At Sea

Take advantage of the many on board activites during your day at sea. Explore the Icon of the Seas Deck Maps and make sure to view our list of Ship Venues and Features. You'll have more than enough to fill your day!

Day 4: At Sea

This is the announcement bar for Poornima to test the Close Button.  It will expire May 31 2024.

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Eastern Caribbean Cruises

Beaches, azure waters — what comes to mind when you think of cruises to the caribbean.

Best Multi-generational

Cruise Line

2022 Reader’s Choice Award, Porthole Magazine

Picture the Caribbean. Soft sandy beaches, warm winds blowing through palm trees and crystal-clear waters stretching as far as the eye can see. That’s the Eastern Caribbean cruise experience. Enjoy the calm waters around the islands, and snorkel, swim and sail your way through engaging activities. Relax on world-famous beaches, cool drink in hand, for a day of rejuvenation topped off by luxurious shopping. Dive in; the Caribbean is waiting.

Featured Ports Eastern Caribbean Cruise Ports

Get an overview of some of the Eastern Caribbean’s top islands (plus our main departure port).

  • Princess Cays®
  • St. Maarten
  • Ft. Lauderdale

With a half mile of white-sand shoreline and 40 acres of relaxation, shopping and picturesque beaches, Princess Cays is one of the best private Eastern Caribbean cruise line ports in the world. Relax in a private cabana, dive into the dozens of available water activities, explore the gorgeous back roads of Eleuthera in a dune buggy, or indulge in shopping from local craftspeople.

St. Kitts and the neighboring island of Nevis were once considered the crown jewels of the Caribbean, and it's easy to see why. Green hillsides, fields of sugarcane and dramatic volcanoes rise into the strikingly blue sky. With it's beautifully restored colonial buildings, imposing Brimstone Hill Fortress and museum of Alexander Hamilton at his birthplace, the history lovers will have plenty to explore after relaxing on the beautiful beaches on a cruise to St. Kitts.

Two islands in one, St. Maarten is split between France and the Netherlands, but comes together as one memorable experience. From the Dutch-inspired port of Philipsburg with its historic colonial architecture and warm beaches, to the French hub of Marigot full of designer boutiques and bistros, a cruise to St. Maarten has something for you.

Cruise to St. Thomas, an American paradise that contains everything alluring about the Caribbean: sparkling sands, pirate history, snorkeling adventures among coral reefs, shipwreck dives and relaxation taken to the next level with rum punch and island music.

The "Venice of America" has been the premier destination for spring breakers for almost six decades, but don't let that fool you into thinking the city is one big party. From the Everglades, a UNESCO World Heritage Site home to an amazingly rich biosphere, to seven miles of white-sand beaches, Ft. Lauderdale is a beautifully diverse city.

Top-Rated Caribbean Beaches

Trunk bay, st. john.

Named one of  Conde Nast Traveler's  Seven Cruise Wonders of the World, Trunk Bay is stunning beyond words. Snorkel along an underwater coral reef trail, swim through warm clear waters, and lounge on the white sands while looking out on a vista that can only be described as tropical perfection.

Orient Beach & Little Bay Beach, St. Maarten

Two beaches, both with soft sand, warm water and refreshing breezes, make for the perfect day by the ocean. Snorkel with sea life, paddle through the azure waters, or relax on the beach.

Magens Bay, St. Thomas

One of the top 10 beaches in the world according to  National Geographic  magazine, Magens Bay, is known for its picturesque beauty and deep, sheltered bay with calm waters. With a white-sand beach that stretches for three quarters of a mile and gentle waves, you can relax, swim and explore with ease.

What Will You Do on an Eastern Caribbean Cruise?

Get a taste of what life is like in the (is)land of beach beauty and what you can anticipate experiencing here.

Island shore excursions

Experience the best the Eastern Caribbean has to offer with award-winning shore excursions that immerse you in thrilling experiences, unique culinary delights and peaceful rejuvenation. Sail on a tall ship at sunset, snorkel with vibrant sea life through teeming reefs, and explore old shipwrecks near the picturesque coastlines.

Late night departures

The Caribbean has a different feeling at night. Revel in its warm evenings and enticing music with our More Ashore program. Later stays in ports such as St. Thomas and Barbados let you soak up the full Caribbean experience, like a fresh-caught seafood dinner on the beach or street fair full of local crafts and flavors. With More Ashore, you get more time to enjoy the vibrant island nightlife.

Caribbean Cruise Onboard Experience Featured Program

With award-winning onboard programs, regional cuisine from world-class chefs and celebrations of Caribbean life, Princess makes your ship a destination all its own.

Comfortable accommodations

Your stateroom is your home away from home on your voyage where you rest up and recharge between adventures. With the expertly designed Princess Luxury Bed, luxurious 100% Jacquard-woven cotton linens and specially created SLEEP program by a board-certified sleep expert, you might just get the best sleep of your life. We offer staterooms ranging from interior cabins to full suites, and we even offer connected rooms for families with more than four members traveling together.

Bringing local life aboard

Embrace the spirit of the islands the moment you step on your ship with our Rhythm of the Caribbean program. Savor island cuisine, sip signature cocktails and engage in authentic regional experiences. Dance beneath the stars to vibrant island rhythms at exclusive parties, and immerse yourself in one-of-a-kind cultural activities — from concerts and crafts to talks from shark experts and treasure hunters.

Never miss a beat

Say goodbye to the daily grind with our new Sail Away Party poolside on the top deck, dance to local music at one of the many Caribbean inspired concerts, or be the envy of every pirate at our high-energy gold treasure-inspired Terrace Pool Gold Party. Throughout your cruise to the Caribbean there will be events that excite, enrich and challenge you to fully experience the islands.

Deeper experiences of the islands

Discover the history of local distilleries while sampling some of the region’s best rums, meet the parrots and macaws that call the Caribbean home in the ship's Piazza, or become a part of the rhythm with steel pan drum lessons. Our onboard activities give you the chance to gain a deeper connection and understanding of the gorgeous islands you'll visit on your voyage.

Discovery at Sea

Sharks, pirates and stars — oh my!

Discovery at SEA brings the expertise and excitement of the Discovery Channel™ on board your Caribbean cruise! Enjoy Shark Week all summer long with shark-themed activities, hear tales of sunken treasure and lost shipwrecks from the stars of Travel Channel’s™ Caribbean Pirate Treasure, and explore the constellations and spectacular galaxies of the night sky with the Voyage to the Stars indoor planetarium experience.

Ship Activities for Every Cruise to the Caribbean

Recharging your batteries.

Pamper yourself in the Lotus Spa® with a massage, facial or manicure, and feel renewed. Enjoy The Sanctuary, a lounge just for adults, where you can relax with a light meal, specialty drink and al fresco massages while digging into that novel you've been looking forward to reading. If you prefer your relaxation more active, we offer Zumba, yoga and tai chi classes to burn off stress and raise your heart rate.

Celebrations

The perfect place to celebrate

Almost 30% of all passengers who sail with us are celebrating an important milestone in their lives. Say "I do" at sea in a ceremony officiated by the captain. Arrange for an anniversary package and let us spoil you with romantic balcony dining, chocolates and more. For us, every day is a celebration.

Love blooms on the Love Boat

It's difficult to imagine something more romantic than sailing through the warm waters of the Caribbean, hopping between tropical islands and white-sand beaches from the comfortable luxury of your ship. While on board we cater to your romantic side with private dining on your balcony, whether a relaxing breakfast for two or a romantic sunset dinner, honeymoon packages for lucky newlyweds, flowers and chocolates delivered to your room and couples-only massages in the Sanctuary.

Food & Drinks

The flavors of the islands

The diverse cultural influences, local climates and history of the Caribbean combine to make one of the most exciting and unique regional cuisines in the world. From mofongo, a dish from Puerto Rico made from mashed fried plantains, pork and garlic, to the famous jerk chicken of Jamaica, we serve the Caribbean's favorite flavors to you on board. Thanks to Princess' world-class chefs you'll enjoy fresh, locally inspired dishes for your entire voyage.

Movies Under the Stars®

Outdoor cinema at its best

Enjoy many of the latest movies, exciting concerts and most anticipated live sports games on a massive poolside screen. The warm Caribbean night air, fresh popcorn and comfortable lounge chair with fleece blanket make for a viewing experience like no other. Not to mention the best theater in the world, the Caribbean ocean with a ceiling of stars!

Sailing with your crew

Enjoy a ship full of activities for the whole family, from Broadway-style shows to Discovery’s Shark Week all summer long, your family will be engaged in the Caribbean. Go Stargazing under the stunning expanse of the night sky with Discovery at SEA, compete in a family game night, and savor the flavors of the islands together.

Caribbean Cruise Articles and Videos

Read about colorful cultures, breathtaking landscapes, must-see attractions and preparation advice for cruising the Caribbean.

2024-2025 Caribbean Cruises

There’s no better way to truly experience the laid-back Caribbean than with Princess.

Caribbean Cruise Weather by Month

From radiant sunshine to turquoise waters, enjoy the best Caribbean cruise weather all year round when you sail to these tropical lands with Princess.

Top Five Caribbean Cruise Destinations

Whether you’re a history-lover, adventure-seeker or laid-back traveler, discover the best Caribbean cruise destinations for any guest with Princess.

Best Caribbean Cruises

Visit the best Caribbean cruise destinations with Princess and relax on white-sand beaches or embark on adventure that will leave a lasting impression.

Top Things to Do in Grand Cayman

From relaxing on the shores of Seven Mile Beach to feeding majestic sea creatures at Stingray City, discover the top things to do in Grand Cayman with Princess.

Best Time for a Caribbean Cruise

Discover the best time for a Caribbean cruise. From the offseason to the sunniest months to festival season, anytime is the best time to travel to the Caribbean.

Travel, Airfare, & Hotels: Let Princess Get You There

Princess EZair® Flights

Stress-free airfare

Remove the hassle from air travel and give yourself the gift of flexibility, time, and a thicker wallet with Princess EZair flights. We negotiate lower rates with the airlines, allow you to modify your flight up to 45 days prior with no penalty, and protect you if your flight is late or canceled.

EZair flight quotes are available on our cruise search result details pages.

Airplane to Ship Transfer

We get you where you need to go

Let Princess pick you up from the airport and take you directly to your ship or hotel when you arrive, even if you didn't book your airfare through us. A uniformed Princess representative meets you at the airport after you've retrieved your luggage and transports you directly to your ship or hotel without you having to worry about the logistics of navigating a new city.

Cruise Plus Hotel Packages

Stay longer and relax

Extend your cruise vacation, and simplify your travel plans with a hotel stay at the beginning or end of your cruise. With a Cruise Plus Hotel Package, a Princess representative meets you at the airport and pier, transporting you to and from your hotel. The package includes the cost of your hotel stay, transportation, luggage handling, and the representative’s services.

Need help planning?

Princess Cruise Vacation Planners are a dedicated resource to help you every step of the way through the planning process of your cruise vacation. The best part is, their services are completely FREE!

Cruise deals & promotions

Find our top sales, deals, partnerships and promotions for our destinations all in one place. We run promotions throughout the year and sometimes run sweepstakes where you can win prizes!

#PrincessCruises Caribbean Connections

See the Caribbean through our guests' eyes.

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Royal Caribbean Cruise from Miami January 2023

Royal Caribbean

Every ship in the Royal Caribbean fleet features an extensive array of amenities and activities. Entertainment options on a cruise in the Caribbean may include rock climbing walls, surfing on a FlowRider, a fully equipped fitness center, and a number of pools and spas in which to unwind and enjoy the waves. Everyone in the family can relax and have fun on a cruise. Royal Caribbean understands how to make children happy. Royal Caribbean has one of the most modern fleets in the business because it is always questioning what everyone else thinks.

Cruise to the spectacular Caribbean Sea’s warm waters and lively islands with Royal Caribbean from Miami in January 2023. In January 2023, Royal Caribbean will take you from Miami to the Bahamas , the Eastern Caribbean , the Southern Caribbean , the Western Caribbean , and other places in the Caribbean Sea.

Find your next Royal Caribbean cruise out of Miami in January 2023

Royal Caribbean Bahamas 4-day route

4-day Bahamas from Miami, Fl

Freedom of the seas, royal caribbean.

Date: January 2, 2023

Ports of Call: Miami, CocoCay, Grand Bahama Island, Nassau, Miami; View Itinerary

Royal Caribbean Eastern Caribbean 10-day route

10-day Eastern Caribbean from Miami, Fl

Oasis of the seas, royal caribbean.

Date: January 5, 2023

Ports of Call: Miami, St. Thomas, Antigua, Bridgetown, St. Kitts, St. Maarten, Miami; View Itinerary

Royal Caribbean Bahamas 3-day route

3-day Bahamas from Miami, Fl

Date: January 6, 2023

Ports of Call: Miami, CocoCay, Nassau, Miami; View Itinerary

Royal Caribbean Eastern Caribbean 7-day route

7-day Eastern Caribbean from Miami, Fl

Symphony of the seas, royal caribbean.

Date: January 7, 2023

Ports of Call: Miami, St. Maarten, St. Thomas, CocoCay, Miami; View Itinerary

Date: January 9, 2023

Date: January 13, 2023

Date: January 14, 2023

Royal Caribbean Western Caribbean 7-day route

7-day Western Caribbean from Miami, Fl

Date: January 15, 2023

Ports of Call: Miami, CocoCay, Cozumel, Roatan, Costa Maya, Miami; View Itinerary

Date: January 16, 2023

Date: January 20, 2023

Date: January 21, 2023

Ports of Call: Miami, Costa Maya, Roatan, Cozumel, CocoCay, Miami; View Itinerary

Date: January 22, 2023

Ports of Call: Miami, Labadee, San Juan, St. Thomas, CocoCay, Miami; View Itinerary

Date: January 23, 2023

Date: January 27, 2023

Date: January 28, 2023

Date: January 29, 2023

Date: January 30, 2023

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photo of Icon of the Seas, taken on a long railed path approaching the stern of the ship, with people walking along dock

Crying Myself to Sleep on the Biggest Cruise Ship Ever

Seven agonizing nights aboard the Icon of the Seas

photo of Icon of the Seas, taken on a long railed path approaching the stern of the ship, with people walking along dock

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Updated at 2:44 p.m. ET on April 6, 2024.

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MY FIRST GLIMPSE of Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas, from the window of an approaching Miami cab, brings on a feeling of vertigo, nausea, amazement, and distress. I shut my eyes in defense, as my brain tells my optic nerve to try again.

The ship makes no sense, vertically or horizontally. It makes no sense on sea, or on land, or in outer space. It looks like a hodgepodge of domes and minarets, tubes and canopies, like Istanbul had it been designed by idiots. Vibrant, oversignifying colors are stacked upon other such colors, decks perched over still more decks; the only comfort is a row of lifeboats ringing its perimeter. There is no imposed order, no cogent thought, and, for those who do not harbor a totalitarian sense of gigantomania, no visual mercy. This is the biggest cruise ship ever built, and I have been tasked with witnessing its inaugural voyage.

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“Author embarks on their first cruise-ship voyage” has been a staple of American essay writing for almost three decades, beginning with David Foster Wallace’s “A Supposedly Fun Thing I’ll Never Do Again,” which was first published in 1996 under the title “Shipping Out.” Since then, many admirable writers have widened and diversified the genre. Usually the essayist commissioned to take to the sea is in their first or second flush of youth and is ready to sharpen their wit against the hull of the offending vessel. I am 51, old and tired, having seen much of the world as a former travel journalist, and mostly what I do in both life and prose is shrug while muttering to my imaginary dachshund, “This too shall pass.” But the Icon of the Seas will not countenance a shrug. The Icon of the Seas is the Linda Loman of cruise ships, exclaiming that attention must be paid. And here I am in late January with my one piece of luggage and useless gray winter jacket and passport, zipping through the Port of Miami en route to the gangway that will separate me from the bulk of North America for more than seven days, ready to pay it in full.

The aforementioned gangway opens up directly onto a thriving mall (I will soon learn it is imperiously called the “Royal Promenade”), presently filled with yapping passengers beneath a ceiling studded with balloons ready to drop. Crew members from every part of the global South, as well as a few Balkans, are shepherding us along while pressing flutes of champagne into our hands. By a humming Starbucks, I drink as many of these as I can and prepare to find my cabin. I show my blue Suite Sky SeaPass Card (more on this later, much more) to a smiling woman from the Philippines, and she tells me to go “aft.” Which is where, now? As someone who has rarely sailed on a vessel grander than the Staten Island Ferry, I am confused. It turns out that the aft is the stern of the ship, or, for those of us who don’t know what a stern or an aft are, its ass. The nose of the ship, responsible for separating the waves before it, is also called a bow, and is marked for passengers as the FWD , or forward. The part of the contemporary sailing vessel where the malls are clustered is called the midship. I trust that you have enjoyed this nautical lesson.

I ascend via elevator to my suite on Deck 11. This is where I encounter my first terrible surprise. My suite windows and balcony do not face the ocean. Instead, they look out onto another shopping mall. This mall is the one that’s called Central Park, perhaps in homage to the Olmsted-designed bit of greenery in the middle of my hometown. Although on land I would be delighted to own a suite with Central Park views, here I am deeply depressed. To sail on a ship and not wake up to a vast blue carpet of ocean? Unthinkable.

Allow me a brief preamble here. The story you are reading was commissioned at a moment when most staterooms on the Icon were sold out. In fact, so enthralled by the prospect of this voyage were hard-core mariners that the ship’s entire inventory of guest rooms (the Icon can accommodate up to 7,600 passengers, but its inaugural journey was reduced to 5,000 or so for a less crowded experience) was almost immediately sold out. Hence, this publication was faced with the shocking prospect of paying nearly $19,000 to procure for this solitary passenger an entire suite—not including drinking expenses—all for the privilege of bringing you this article. But the suite in question doesn’t even have a view of the ocean! I sit down hard on my soft bed. Nineteen thousand dollars for this .

selfie photo of man with glasses, in background is swim-up bar with two women facing away

The viewless suite does have its pluses. In addition to all the Malin+Goetz products in my dual bathrooms, I am granted use of a dedicated Suite Deck lounge; access to Coastal Kitchen, a superior restaurant for Suites passengers; complimentary VOOM SM Surf & Stream (“the fastest Internet at Sea”) “for one device per person for the whole cruise duration”; a pair of bathrobes (one of which comes prestained with what looks like a large expectoration by the greenest lizard on Earth); and use of the Grove Suite Sun, an area on Decks 18 and 19 with food and deck chairs reserved exclusively for Suite passengers. I also get reserved seating for a performance of The Wizard of Oz , an ice-skating tribute to the periodic table, and similar provocations. The very color of my Suite Sky SeaPass Card, an oceanic blue as opposed to the cloying royal purple of the standard non-Suite passenger, will soon provoke envy and admiration. But as high as my status may be, there are those on board who have much higher status still, and I will soon learn to bow before them.

In preparation for sailing, I have “priced in,” as they say on Wall Street, the possibility that I may come from a somewhat different monde than many of the other cruisers. Without falling into stereotypes or preconceptions, I prepare myself for a friendly outspokenness on the part of my fellow seafarers that may not comply with modern DEI standards. I believe in meeting people halfway, and so the day before flying down to Miami, I visited what remains of Little Italy to purchase a popular T-shirt that reads DADDY’S LITTLE MEATBALL across the breast in the colors of the Italian flag. My wife recommended that I bring one of my many T-shirts featuring Snoopy and the Peanuts gang, as all Americans love the beagle and his friends. But I naively thought that my meatball T-shirt would be more suitable for conversation-starting. “Oh, and who is your ‘daddy’?” some might ask upon seeing it. “And how long have you been his ‘little meatball’?” And so on.

I put on my meatball T-shirt and head for one of the dining rooms to get a late lunch. In the elevator, I stick out my chest for all to read the funny legend upon it, but soon I realize that despite its burnished tricolor letters, no one takes note. More to the point, no one takes note of me. Despite my attempts at bridge building, the very sight of me (small, ethnic, without a cap bearing the name of a football team) elicits no reaction from other passengers. Most often, they will small-talk over me as if I don’t exist. This brings to mind the travails of David Foster Wallace , who felt so ostracized by his fellow passengers that he retreated to his cabin for much of his voyage. And Wallace was raised primarily in the Midwest and was a much larger, more American-looking meatball than I am. If he couldn’t talk to these people, how will I? What if I leave this ship without making any friends at all, despite my T-shirt? I am a social creature, and the prospect of seven days alone and apart is saddening. Wallace’s stateroom, at least, had a view of the ocean, a kind of cheap eternity.

Worse awaits me in the dining room. This is a large, multichandeliered room where I attended my safety training (I was shown how to put on a flotation vest; it is a very simple procedure). But the maître d’ politely refuses me entry in an English that seems to verge on another language. “I’m sorry, this is only for pendejos ,” he seems to be saying. I push back politely and he repeats himself. Pendejos ? Piranhas? There’s some kind of P-word to which I am not attuned. Meanwhile elderly passengers stream right past, powered by their limbs, walkers, and electric wheelchairs. “It is only pendejo dining today, sir.” “But I have a suite!” I say, already starting to catch on to the ship’s class system. He examines my card again. “But you are not a pendejo ,” he confirms. I am wearing a DADDY’S LITTLE MEATBALL T-shirt, I want to say to him. I am the essence of pendejo .

Eventually, I give up and head to the plebeian buffet on Deck 15, which has an aquatic-styled name I have now forgotten. Before gaining entry to this endless cornucopia of reheated food, one passes a washing station of many sinks and soap dispensers, and perhaps the most intriguing character on the entire ship. He is Mr. Washy Washy—or, according to his name tag, Nielbert of the Philippines—and he is dressed as a taco (on other occasions, I’ll see him dressed as a burger). Mr. Washy Washy performs an eponymous song in spirited, indeed flamboyant English: “Washy, washy, wash your hands, WASHY WASHY!” The dangers of norovirus and COVID on a cruise ship this size (a giant fellow ship was stricken with the former right after my voyage) makes Mr. Washy Washy an essential member of the crew. The problem lies with the food at the end of Washy’s rainbow. The buffet is groaning with what sounds like sophisticated dishes—marinated octopus, boiled egg with anchovy, chorizo, lobster claws—but every animal tastes tragically the same, as if there was only one creature available at the market, a “cruisipus” bred specifically for Royal Caribbean dining. The “vegetables” are no better. I pick up a tomato slice and look right through it. It tastes like cellophane. I sit alone, apart from the couples and parents with gaggles of children, as “We Are Family” echoes across the buffet space.

I may have failed to mention that all this time, the Icon of the Seas has not left port. As the fiery mango of the subtropical setting sun makes Miami’s condo skyline even more apocalyptic, the ship shoves off beneath a perfunctory display of fireworks. After the sun sets, in the far, dark distance, another circus-lit cruise ship ruptures the waves before us. We glance at it with pity, because it is by definition a smaller ship than our own. I am on Deck 15, outside the buffet and overlooking a bunch of pools (the Icon has seven of them), drinking a frilly drink that I got from one of the bars (the Icon has 15 of them), still too shy to speak to anyone, despite Sister Sledge’s assertion that all on the ship are somehow related.

Kim Brooks: On failing the family vacation

The ship’s passage away from Ron DeSantis’s Florida provides no frisson, no sense of developing “sea legs,” as the ship is too large to register the presence of waves unless a mighty wind adds significant chop. It is time for me to register the presence of the 5,000 passengers around me, even if they refuse to register mine. My fellow travelers have prepared for this trip with personally decorated T-shirts celebrating the importance of this voyage. The simplest ones say ICON INAUGURAL ’24 on the back and the family name on the front. Others attest to an over-the-top love of cruise ships: WARNING! MAY START TALKING ABOUT CRUISING . Still others are artisanally designed and celebrate lifetimes spent married while cruising (on ships, of course). A couple possibly in their 90s are wearing shirts whose backs feature a drawing of a cruise liner, two flamingos with ostensibly male and female characteristics, and the legend “ HUSBAND AND WIFE Cruising Partners FOR LIFE WE MAY NOT HAVE IT All Together BUT TOGETHER WE HAVE IT ALL .” (The words not in all caps have been written in cursive.) A real journalist or a more intrepid conversationalist would have gone up to the couple and asked them to explain the longevity of their marriage vis-à-vis their love of cruising. But instead I head to my mall suite, take off my meatball T-shirt, and allow the first tears of the cruise to roll down my cheeks slowly enough that I briefly fall asleep amid the moisture and salt.

photo of elaborate twisting multicolored waterslides with long stairwell to platform

I WAKE UP with a hangover. Oh God. Right. I cannot believe all of that happened last night. A name floats into my cobwebbed, nauseated brain: “Ayn Rand.” Jesus Christ.

I breakfast alone at the Coastal Kitchen. The coffee tastes fine and the eggs came out of a bird. The ship rolls slightly this morning; I can feel it in my thighs and my schlong, the parts of me that are most receptive to danger.

I had a dangerous conversation last night. After the sun set and we were at least 50 miles from shore (most modern cruise ships sail at about 23 miles an hour), I lay in bed softly hiccupping, my arms stretched out exactly like Jesus on the cross, the sound of the distant waves missing from my mall-facing suite, replaced by the hum of air-conditioning and children shouting in Spanish through the vents of my two bathrooms. I decided this passivity was unacceptable. As an immigrant, I feel duty-bound to complete the tasks I am paid for, which means reaching out and trying to understand my fellow cruisers. So I put on a normal James Perse T-shirt and headed for one of the bars on the Royal Promenade—the Schooner Bar, it was called, if memory serves correctly.

I sat at the bar for a martini and two Negronis. An old man with thick, hairy forearms drank next to me, very silent and Hemingwaylike, while a dreadlocked piano player tinkled out a series of excellent Elton John covers. To my right, a young white couple—he in floral shorts, she in a light, summery miniskirt with a fearsome diamond ring, neither of them in football regalia—chatted with an elderly couple. Do it , I commanded myself. Open your mouth. Speak! Speak without being spoken to. Initiate. A sentence fragment caught my ear from the young woman, “Cherry Hill.” This is a suburb of Philadelphia in New Jersey, and I had once been there for a reading at a synagogue. “Excuse me,” I said gently to her. “Did you just mention Cherry Hill? It’s a lovely place.”

As it turned out, the couple now lived in Fort Lauderdale (the number of Floridians on the cruise surprised me, given that Southern Florida is itself a kind of cruise ship, albeit one slowly sinking), but soon they were talking with me exclusively—the man potbellied, with a chin like a hard-boiled egg; the woman as svelte as if she were one of the many Ukrainian members of the crew—the elderly couple next to them forgotten. This felt as groundbreaking as the first time I dared to address an American in his native tongue, as a child on a bus in Queens (“On my foot you are standing, Mister”).

“I don’t want to talk politics,” the man said. “But they’re going to eighty-six Biden and put Michelle in.”

I considered the contradictions of his opening conversational gambit, but decided to play along. “People like Michelle,” I said, testing the waters. The husband sneered, but the wife charitably put forward that the former first lady was “more personable” than Joe Biden. “They’re gonna eighty-six Biden,” the husband repeated. “He can’t put a sentence together.”

After I mentioned that I was a writer—though I presented myself as a writer of teleplays instead of novels and articles such as this one—the husband told me his favorite writer was Ayn Rand. “Ayn Rand, she came here with nothing,” the husband said. “I work with a lot of Cubans, so …” I wondered if I should mention what I usually do to ingratiate myself with Republicans or libertarians: the fact that my finances improved after pass-through corporations were taxed differently under Donald Trump. Instead, I ordered another drink and the couple did the same, and I told him that Rand and I were born in the same city, St. Petersburg/Leningrad, and that my family also came here with nothing. Now the bonding and drinking began in earnest, and several more rounds appeared. Until it all fell apart.

Read: Gary Shteyngart on watching Russian television for five days straight

My new friend, whom I will refer to as Ayn, called out to a buddy of his across the bar, and suddenly a young couple, both covered in tattoos, appeared next to us. “He fucking punked me,” Ayn’s frat-boy-like friend called out as he put his arm around Ayn, while his sizable partner sizzled up to Mrs. Rand. Both of them had a look I have never seen on land—their eyes projecting absence and enmity in equal measure. In the ’90s, I drank with Russian soldiers fresh from Chechnya and wandered the streets of wartime Zagreb, but I have never seen such undisguised hostility toward both me and perhaps the universe at large. I was briefly introduced to this psychopathic pair, but neither of them wanted to have anything to do with me, and the tattooed woman would not even reveal her Christian name to me (she pretended to have the same first name as Mrs. Rand). To impress his tattooed friends, Ayn made fun of the fact that as a television writer, I’d worked on the series Succession (which, it would turn out, practically nobody on the ship had watched), instead of the far more palatable, in his eyes, zombie drama of last year. And then my new friends drifted away from me into an angry private conversation—“He punked me!”—as I ordered another drink for myself, scared of the dead-eyed arrivals whose gaze never registered in the dim wattage of the Schooner Bar, whose terrifying voices and hollow laughs grated like unoiled gears against the crooning of “Goodbye Yellow Brick Road.”

But today is a new day for me and my hangover. After breakfast, I explore the ship’s so-called neighborhoods . There’s the AquaDome, where one can find a food hall and an acrobatic sound-and-light aquatic show. Central Park has a premium steak house, a sushi joint, and a used Rolex that can be bought for $8,000 on land here proudly offered at $17,000. There’s the aforementioned Royal Promenade, where I had drunk with the Rands, and where a pair of dueling pianos duel well into the night. There’s Surfside, a kids’ neighborhood full of sugary garbage, which looks out onto the frothy trail that the behemoth leaves behind itself. Thrill Island refers to the collection of tubes that clutter the ass of the ship and offer passengers six waterslides and a surfing simulation. There’s the Hideaway, an adult zone that plays music from a vomit-slathered, Brit-filled Alicante nightclub circa 1996 and proves a big favorite with groups of young Latin American customers. And, most hurtfully, there’s the Suite Neighborhood.

2 photos: a ship's foamy white wake stretches to the horizon; a man at reailing with water and two large ships docked behind

I say hurtfully because as a Suite passenger I should be here, though my particular suite is far from the others. Whereas I am stuck amid the riffraff of Deck 11, this section is on the highborn Decks 16 and 17, and in passing, I peek into the spacious, tall-ceilinged staterooms from the hallway, dazzled by the glint of the waves and sun. For $75,000, one multifloor suite even comes with its own slide between floors, so that a family may enjoy this particular terror in private. There is a quiet splendor to the Suite Neighborhood. I see fewer stickers and signs and drawings than in my own neighborhood—for example, MIKE AND DIANA PROUDLY SERVED U.S. MARINE CORPS RETIRED . No one here needs to announce their branch of service or rank; they are simply Suites, and this is where they belong. Once again, despite my hard work and perseverance, I have been disallowed from the true American elite. Once again, I am “Not our class, dear.” I am reminded of watching The Love Boat on my grandmother’s Zenith, which either was given to her or we found in the trash (I get our many malfunctioning Zeniths confused) and whose tube got so hot, I would put little chunks of government cheese on a thin tissue atop it to give our welfare treat a pleasant, Reagan-era gooeyness. I could not understand English well enough then to catch the nuances of that seafaring program, but I knew that there were differences in the status of the passengers, and that sometimes those differences made them sad. Still, this ship, this plenty—every few steps, there are complimentary nachos or milkshakes or gyros on offer—was the fatty fuel of my childhood dreams. If only I had remained a child.

I walk around the outdoor decks looking for company. There is a middle-aged African American couple who always seem to be asleep in each other’s arms, probably exhausted from the late capitalism they regularly encounter on land. There is far more diversity on this ship than I expected. Many couples are a testament to Loving v. Virginia , and there is a large group of folks whose T-shirts read MELANIN AT SEA / IT’S THE MELANIN FOR ME . I smile when I see them, but then some young kids from the group makes Mr. Washy Washy do a cruel, caricatured “Burger Dance” (today he is in his burger getup), and I think, Well, so much for intersectionality .

At the infinity pool on Deck 17, I spot some elderly women who could be ethnic and from my part of the world, and so I jump in. I am proved correct! Many of them seem to be originally from Queens (“Corona was still great when it was all Italian”), though they are now spread across the tristate area. We bond over the way “Ron-kon-koma” sounds when announced in Penn Station.

“Everyone is here for a different reason,” one of them tells me. She and her ex-husband last sailed together four years ago to prove to themselves that their marriage was truly over. Her 15-year-old son lost his virginity to “an Irish young lady” while their ship was moored in Ravenna, Italy. The gaggle of old-timers competes to tell me their favorite cruising stories and tips. “A guy proposed in Central Park a couple of years ago”—many Royal Caribbean ships apparently have this ridiculous communal area—“and she ran away screaming!” “If you’re diamond-class, you get four drinks for free.” “A different kind of passenger sails out of Bayonne.” (This, perhaps, is racially coded.) “Sometimes, if you tip the bartender $5, your next drink will be free.”

“Everyone’s here for a different reason,” the woman whose marriage ended on a cruise tells me again. “Some people are here for bad reasons—the drinkers and the gamblers. Some people are here for medical reasons.” I have seen more than a few oxygen tanks and at least one woman clearly undergoing very serious chemo. Some T-shirts celebrate good news about a cancer diagnosis. This might be someone’s last cruise or week on Earth. For these women, who have spent months, if not years, at sea, cruising is a ritual as well as a life cycle: first love, last love, marriage, divorce, death.

Read: The last place on Earth any tourist should go

I have talked with these women for so long, tonight I promise myself that after a sad solitary dinner I will not try to seek out company at the bars in the mall or the adult-themed Hideaway. I have enough material to fulfill my duties to this publication. As I approach my orphaned suite, I run into the aggro young people who stole Mr. and Mrs. Rand away from me the night before. The tattooed apparitions pass me without a glance. She is singing something violent about “Stuttering Stanley” (a character in a popular horror movie, as I discover with my complimentary VOOM SM Surf & Stream Internet at Sea) and he’s loudly shouting about “all the money I’ve lost,” presumably at the casino in the bowels of the ship.

So these bent psychos out of a Cormac McCarthy novel are angrily inhabiting my deck. As I mewl myself to sleep, I envision a limited series for HBO or some other streamer, a kind of low-rent White Lotus , where several aggressive couples conspire to throw a shy intellectual interloper overboard. I type the scenario into my phone. As I fall asleep, I think of what the woman who recently divorced her husband and whose son became a man through the good offices of the Irish Republic told me while I was hoisting myself out of the infinity pool. “I’m here because I’m an explorer. I’m here because I’m trying something new.” What if I allowed myself to believe in her fantasy?

2 photos: 2 slices of pizza on plate; man in "Daddy's Little Meatball" shirt and shorts standing in outdoor dining area with ship's exhaust stacks in background

“YOU REALLY STARTED AT THE TOP,” they tell me. I’m at the Coastal Kitchen for my eggs and corned-beef hash, and the maître d’ has slotted me in between two couples. Fueled by coffee or perhaps intrigued by my relative youth, they strike up a conversation with me. As always, people are shocked that this is my first cruise. They contrast the Icon favorably with all the preceding liners in the Royal Caribbean fleet, usually commenting on the efficiency of the elevators that hurl us from deck to deck (as in many large corporate buildings, the elevators ask you to choose a floor and then direct you to one of many lifts). The couple to my right, from Palo Alto—he refers to his “porn mustache” and calls his wife “my cougar” because she is two years older—tell me they are “Pandemic Pinnacles.”

This is the day that my eyes will be opened. Pinnacles , it is explained to me over translucent cantaloupe, have sailed with Royal Caribbean for 700 ungodly nights. Pandemic Pinnacles took advantage of the two-for-one accrual rate of Pinnacle points during the pandemic, when sailing on a cruise ship was even more ill-advised, to catapult themselves into Pinnacle status.

Because of the importance of the inaugural voyage of the world’s largest cruise liner, more than 200 Pinnacles are on this ship, a startling number, it seems. Mrs. Palo Alto takes out a golden badge that I have seen affixed over many a breast, which reads CROWN AND ANCHOR SOCIETY along with her name. This is the coveted badge of the Pinnacle. “You should hear all the whining in Guest Services,” her husband tells me. Apparently, the Pinnacles who are not also Suites like us are all trying to use their status to get into Coastal Kitchen, our elite restaurant. Even a Pinnacle needs to be a Suite to access this level of corned-beef hash.

“We’re just baby Pinnacles,” Mrs. Palo Alto tells me, describing a kind of internal class struggle among the Pinnacle elite for ever higher status.

And now I understand what the maître d’ was saying to me on the first day of my cruise. He wasn’t saying “ pendejo .” He was saying “Pinnacle.” The dining room was for Pinnacles only, all those older people rolling in like the tide on their motorized scooters.

And now I understand something else: This whole thing is a cult. And like most cults, it can’t help but mirror the endless American fight for status. Like Keith Raniere’s NXIVM, where different-colored sashes were given out to connote rank among Raniere’s branded acolytes, this is an endless competition among Pinnacles, Suites, Diamond-Plusers, and facing-the-mall, no-balcony purple SeaPass Card peasants, not to mention the many distinctions within each category. The more you cruise, the higher your status. No wonder a section of the Royal Promenade is devoted to getting passengers to book their next cruise during the one they should be enjoying now. No wonder desperate Royal Caribbean offers (“FINAL HOURS”) crowded my email account weeks before I set sail. No wonder the ship’s jewelry store, the Royal Bling, is selling a $100,000 golden chalice that will entitle its owner to drink free on Royal Caribbean cruises for life. (One passenger was already gaming out whether her 28-year-old son was young enough to “just about earn out” on the chalice or if that ship had sailed.) No wonder this ship was sold out months before departure , and we had to pay $19,000 for a horrid suite away from the Suite Neighborhood. No wonder the most mythical hero of Royal Caribbean lore is someone named Super Mario, who has cruised so often, he now has his own working desk on many ships. This whole experience is part cult, part nautical pyramid scheme.

From the June 2014 issue: Ship of wonks

“The toilets are amazing,” the Palo Altos are telling me. “One flush and you’re done.” “They don’t understand how energy-efficient these ships are,” the husband of the other couple is telling me. “They got the LNG”—liquefied natural gas, which is supposed to make the Icon a boon to the environment (a concept widely disputed and sometimes ridiculed by environmentalists).

But I’m thinking along a different line of attack as I spear my last pallid slice of melon. For my streaming limited series, a Pinnacle would have to get killed by either an outright peasant or a Suite without an ocean view. I tell my breakfast companions my idea.

“Oh, for sure a Pinnacle would have to be killed,” Mr. Palo Alto, the Pandemic Pinnacle, says, touching his porn mustache thoughtfully as his wife nods.

“THAT’S RIGHT, IT’S your time, buddy!” Hubert, my fun-loving Panamanian cabin attendant, shouts as I step out of my suite in a robe. “Take it easy, buddy!”

I have come up with a new dressing strategy. Instead of trying to impress with my choice of T-shirts, I have decided to start wearing a robe, as one does at a resort property on land, with a proper spa and hammam. The response among my fellow cruisers has been ecstatic. “Look at you in the robe!” Mr. Rand cries out as we pass each other by the Thrill Island aqua park. “You’re living the cruise life! You know, you really drank me under the table that night.” I laugh as we part ways, but my soul cries out, Please spend more time with me, Mr. and Mrs. Rand; I so need the company .

In my white robe, I am a stately presence, a refugee from a better limited series, a one-man crossover episode. (Only Suites are granted these robes to begin with.) Today, I will try many of the activities these ships have on offer to provide their clientele with a sense of never-ceasing motion. Because I am already at Thrill Island, I decide to climb the staircase to what looks like a mast on an old-fashioned ship (terrified, because I am afraid of heights) to try a ride called “Storm Chasers,” which is part of the “Category 6” water park, named in honor of one of the storms that may someday do away with the Port of Miami entirely. Storm Chasers consists of falling from the “mast” down a long, twisting neon tube filled with water, like being the camera inside your own colonoscopy, as you hold on to the handles of a mat, hoping not to die. The tube then flops you down headfirst into a trough of water, a Royal Caribbean baptism. It both knocks my breath out and makes me sad.

In keeping with the aquatic theme, I attend a show at the AquaDome. To the sound of “Live and Let Die,” a man in a harness gyrates to and fro in the sultry air. I saw something very similar in the back rooms of the famed Berghain club in early-aughts Berlin. Soon another harnessed man is gyrating next to the first. Ja , I think to myself, I know how this ends. Now will come the fisting , natürlich . But the show soon devolves into the usual Marvel-film-grade nonsense, with too much light and sound signifying nichts . If any fisting is happening, it is probably in the Suite Neighborhood, inside a cabin marked with an upside-down pineapple, which I understand means a couple are ready to swing, and I will see none of it.

I go to the ice show, which is a kind of homage—if that’s possible—to the periodic table, done with the style and pomp and masterful precision that would please the likes of Kim Jong Un, if only he could afford Royal Caribbean talent. At one point, the dancers skate to the theme song of Succession . “See that!” I want to say to my fellow Suites—at “cultural” events, we have a special section reserved for us away from the commoners—“ Succession ! It’s even better than the zombie show! Open your minds!”

Finally, I visit a comedy revue in an enormous and too brightly lit version of an “intimate,” per Royal Caribbean literature, “Manhattan comedy club.” Many of the jokes are about the cruising life. “I’ve lived on ships for 20 years,” one of the middle-aged comedians says. “I can only see so many Filipino homosexuals dressed as a taco.” He pauses while the audience laughs. “I am so fired tonight,” he says. He segues into a Trump impression and then Biden falling asleep at the microphone, which gets the most laughs. “Anyone here from Fort Leonard Wood?” another comedian asks. Half the crowd seems to cheer. As I fall asleep that night, I realize another connection I have failed to make, and one that may explain some of the diversity on this vessel—many of its passengers have served in the military.

As a coddled passenger with a suite, I feel like I am starting to understand what it means to have a rank and be constantly reminded of it. There are many espresso makers , I think as I look across the expanse of my officer-grade quarters before closing my eyes, but this one is mine .

photo of sheltered sandy beach with palms, umbrellas, and chairs with two large docked cruise ships in background

A shocking sight greets me beyond the pools of Deck 17 as I saunter over to the Coastal Kitchen for my morning intake of slightly sour Americanos. A tiny city beneath a series of perfectly pressed green mountains. Land! We have docked for a brief respite in Basseterre, the capital of St. Kitts and Nevis. I wolf down my egg scramble to be one of the first passengers off the ship. Once past the gangway, I barely refrain from kissing the ground. I rush into the sights and sounds of this scruffy island city, sampling incredible conch curry and buckets of non-Starbucks coffee. How wonderful it is to be where God intended humans to be: on land. After all, I am neither a fish nor a mall rat. This is my natural environment. Basseterre may not be Havana, but there are signs of human ingenuity and desire everywhere you look. The Black Table Grill Has been Relocated to Soho Village, Market Street, Directly Behind of, Gary’s Fruits and Flower Shop. Signed. THE PORK MAN reads a sign stuck to a wall. Now, that is how you write a sign. A real sign, not the come-ons for overpriced Rolexes that blink across the screens of the Royal Promenade.

“Hey, tie your shoestring!” a pair of laughing ladies shout to me across the street.

“Thank you!” I shout back. Shoestring! “Thank you very much.”

A man in Independence Square Park comes by and asks if I want to play with his monkey. I haven’t heard that pickup line since the Penn Station of the 1980s. But then he pulls a real monkey out of a bag. The monkey is wearing a diaper and looks insane. Wonderful , I think, just wonderful! There is so much life here. I email my editor asking if I can remain on St. Kitts and allow the Icon to sail off into the horizon without me. I have even priced a flight home at less than $300, and I have enough material from the first four days on the cruise to write the entire story. “It would be funny …” my editor replies. “Now get on the boat.”

As I slink back to the ship after my brief jailbreak, the locals stand under umbrellas to gaze at and photograph the boat that towers over their small capital city. The limousines of the prime minister and his lackeys are parked beside the gangway. St. Kitts, I’ve been told, is one of the few islands that would allow a ship of this size to dock.

“We hear about all the waterslides,” a sweet young server in one of the cafés told me. “We wish we could go on the ship, but we have to work.”

“I want to stay on your island,” I replied. “I love it here.”

But she didn’t understand how I could possibly mean that.

“WASHY, WASHY, so you don’t get stinky, stinky!” kids are singing outside the AquaDome, while their adult minders look on in disapproval, perhaps worried that Mr. Washy Washy is grooming them into a life of gayness. I heard a southern couple skip the buffet entirely out of fear of Mr. Washy Washy.

Meanwhile, I have found a new watering hole for myself, the Swim & Tonic, the biggest swim-up bar on any cruise ship in the world. Drinking next to full-size, nearly naked Americans takes away one’s own self-consciousness. The men have curvaceous mom bodies. The women are equally un-shy about their sprawling physiques.

Today I’ve befriended a bald man with many children who tells me that all of the little trinkets that Royal Caribbean has left us in our staterooms and suites are worth a fortune on eBay. “Eighty dollars for the water bottle, 60 for the lanyard,” the man says. “This is a cult.”

“Tell me about it,” I say. There is, however, a clientele for whom this cruise makes perfect sense. For a large middle-class family (he works in “supply chains”), seven days in a lower-tier cabin—which starts at $1,800 a person—allow the parents to drop off their children in Surfside, where I imagine many young Filipina crew members will take care of them, while the parents are free to get drunk at a swim-up bar and maybe even get intimate in their cabin. Cruise ships have become, for a certain kind of hardworking family, a form of subsidized child care.

There is another man I would like to befriend at the Swim & Tonic, a tall, bald fellow who is perpetually inebriated and who wears a necklace studded with little rubber duckies in sunglasses, which, I am told, is a sort of secret handshake for cruise aficionados. Tomorrow, I will spend more time with him, but first the ship docks at St. Thomas, in the U.S. Virgin Islands. Charlotte Amalie, the capital, is more charming in name than in presence, but I still all but jump off the ship to score a juicy oxtail and plantains at the well-known Petite Pump Room, overlooking the harbor. From one of the highest points in the small city, the Icon of the Seas appears bigger than the surrounding hills.

I usually tan very evenly, but something about the discombobulation of life at sea makes me forget the regular application of sunscreen. As I walk down the streets of Charlotte Amalie in my fluorescent Icon of the Seas cap, an old Rastafarian stares me down. “Redneck,” he hisses.

“No,” I want to tell him, as I bring a hand up to my red neck, “that’s not who I am at all. On my island, Mannahatta, as Whitman would have it, I am an interesting person living within an engaging artistic milieu. I do not wish to use the Caribbean as a dumping ground for the cruise-ship industry. I love the work of Derek Walcott. You don’t understand. I am not a redneck. And if I am, they did this to me.” They meaning Royal Caribbean? Its passengers? The Rands?

“They did this to me!”

Back on the Icon, some older matrons are muttering about a run-in with passengers from the Celebrity cruise ship docked next to us, the Celebrity Apex. Although Celebrity Cruises is also owned by Royal Caribbean, I am made to understand that there is a deep fratricidal beef between passengers of the two lines. “We met a woman from the Apex,” one matron says, “and she says it was a small ship and there was nothing to do. Her face was as tight as a 19-year-old’s, she had so much surgery.” With those words, and beneath a cloudy sky, humidity shrouding our weathered faces and red necks, we set sail once again, hopefully in the direction of home.

photo from inside of spacious geodesic-style glass dome facing ocean, with stairwells and seating areas

THERE ARE BARELY 48 HOURS LEFT to the cruise, and the Icon of the Seas’ passengers are salty. They know how to work the elevators. They know the Washy Washy song by heart. They understand that the chicken gyro at “Feta Mediterranean,” in the AquaDome Market, is the least problematic form of chicken on the ship.

The passengers have shed their INAUGURAL CRUISE T-shirts and are now starting to evince political opinions. There are caps pledging to make America great again and T-shirts that celebrate words sometimes attributed to Patrick Henry: “The Constitution is not an instrument for the government to restrain the people; it is an instrument for the people to restrain the government.” With their preponderance of FAMILY FLAG FAITH FRIENDS FIREARMS T-shirts, the tables by the crepe station sometimes resemble the Capitol Rotunda on January 6. The Real Anthony Fauci , by Robert F. Kennedy Jr., appears to be a popular form of literature, especially among young men with very complicated versions of the American flag on their T-shirts. Other opinions blend the personal and the political. “Someone needs to kill Washy guy, right?” a well-dressed man in the elevator tells me, his gray eyes radiating nothing. “Just beat him to death. Am I right?” I overhear the male member of a young couple whisper, “There goes that freak” as I saunter by in my white spa robe, and I decide to retire it for the rest of the cruise.

I visit the Royal Bling to see up close the $100,000 golden chalice that entitles you to free drinks on Royal Caribbean forever. The pleasant Serbian saleslady explains that the chalice is actually gold-plated and covered in white zirconia instead of diamonds, as it would otherwise cost $1 million. “If you already have everything,” she explains, “this is one more thing you can get.”

I believe that anyone who works for Royal Caribbean should be entitled to immediate American citizenship. They already speak English better than most of the passengers and, per the Serbian lady’s sales pitch above, better understand what America is as well. Crew members like my Panamanian cabin attendant seem to work 24 hours a day. A waiter from New Delhi tells me that his contract is six months and three weeks long. After a cruise ends, he says, “in a few hours, we start again for the next cruise.” At the end of the half a year at sea, he is allowed a two-to-three-month stay at home with his family. As of 2019, the median income for crew members was somewhere in the vicinity of $20,000, according to a major business publication. Royal Caribbean would not share the current median salary for its crew members, but I am certain that it amounts to a fraction of the cost of a Royal Bling gold-plated, zirconia-studded chalice.

And because most of the Icon’s hyper-sanitized spaces are just a frittata away from being a Delta lounge, one forgets that there are actual sailors on this ship, charged with the herculean task of docking it in port. “Having driven 100,000-ton aircraft carriers throughout my career,” retired Admiral James G. Stavridis, the former NATO Supreme Allied Commander Europe, writes to me, “I’m not sure I would even know where to begin with trying to control a sea monster like this one nearly three times the size.” (I first met Stavridis while touring Army bases in Germany more than a decade ago.)

Today, I decide to head to the hot tub near Swim & Tonic, where some of the ship’s drunkest reprobates seem to gather (the other tubs are filled with families and couples). The talk here, like everywhere else on the ship, concerns football, a sport about which I know nothing. It is apparent that four teams have recently competed in some kind of finals for the year, and that two of them will now face off in the championship. Often when people on the Icon speak, I will try to repeat the last thing they said with a laugh or a nod of disbelief. “Yes, 20-yard line! Ha!” “Oh my God, of course, scrimmage.”

Soon we are joined in the hot tub by the late-middle-age drunk guy with the duck necklace. He is wearing a bucket hat with the legend HAWKEYES , which, I soon gather, is yet another football team. “All right, who turned me in?” Duck Necklace says as he plops into the tub beside us. “I get a call in the morning,” he says. “It’s security. Can you come down to the dining room by 10 a.m.? You need to stay away from the members of this religious family.” Apparently, the gregarious Duck Necklace had photobombed the wrong people. There are several families who present as evangelical Christians or practicing Muslims on the ship. One man, evidently, was not happy that Duck Necklace had made contact with his relatives. “It’s because of religious stuff; he was offended. I put my arm around 20 people a day.”

Everyone laughs. “They asked me three times if I needed medication,” he says of the security people who apparently interrogated him in full view of others having breakfast.

Another hot-tub denizen suggests that he should have asked for fentanyl. After a few more drinks, Duck Necklace begins to muse about what it would be like to fall off the ship. “I’m 62 and I’m ready to go,” he says. “I just don’t want a shark to eat me. I’m a huge God guy. I’m a Bible guy. There’s some Mayan theory squaring science stuff with religion. There is so much more to life on Earth.” We all nod into our Red Stripes.

“I never get off the ship when we dock,” he says. He tells us he lost $6,000 in the casino the other day. Later, I look him up, and it appears that on land, he’s a financial adviser in a crisp gray suit, probably a pillar of his North Chicago community.

photo of author smiling and holding soft-serve ice-cream cone with outdoor seating area in background

THE OCEAN IS TEEMING with fascinating life, but on the surface it has little to teach us. The waves come and go. The horizon remains ever far away.

I am constantly told by my fellow passengers that “everybody here has a story.” Yes, I want to reply, but everybody everywhere has a story. You, the reader of this essay, have a story, and yet you’re not inclined to jump on a cruise ship and, like Duck Necklace, tell your story to others at great pitch and volume. Maybe what they’re saying is that everybody on this ship wants to have a bigger, more coherent, more interesting story than the one they’ve been given. Maybe that’s why there’s so much signage on the doors around me attesting to marriages spent on the sea. Maybe that’s why the Royal Caribbean newsletter slipped under my door tells me that “this isn’t a vacation day spent—it’s bragging rights earned.” Maybe that’s why I’m so lonely.

Today is a big day for Icon passengers. Today the ship docks at Royal Caribbean’s own Bahamian island, the Perfect Day at CocoCay. (This appears to be the actual name of the island.) A comedian at the nightclub opined on what his perfect day at CocoCay would look like—receiving oral sex while learning that his ex-wife had been killed in a car crash (big laughter). But the reality of the island is far less humorous than that.

One of the ethnic tristate ladies in the infinity pool told me that she loved CocoCay because it had exactly the same things that could be found on the ship itself. This proves to be correct. It is like the Icon, but with sand. The same tired burgers, the same colorful tubes conveying children and water from Point A to B. The same swim-up bar at its Hideaway ($140 for admittance, no children allowed; Royal Caribbean must be printing money off its clientele). “There was almost a fight at The Wizard of Oz ,” I overhear an elderly woman tell her companion on a chaise lounge. Apparently one of the passengers began recording Royal Caribbean’s intellectual property and “three guys came after him.”

I walk down a pathway to the center of the island, where a sign reads DO NOT ENTER: YOU HAVE REACHED THE BOUNDARY OF ADVENTURE . I hear an animal scampering in the bushes. A Royal Caribbean worker in an enormous golf cart soon chases me down and takes me back to the Hideaway, where I run into Mrs. Rand in a bikini. She becomes livid telling me about an altercation she had the other day with a woman over a towel and a deck chair. We Suites have special towel privileges; we do not have to hand over our SeaPass Card to score a towel. But the Rands are not Suites. “People are so entitled here,” Mrs. Rand says. “It’s like the airport with all its classes.” “You see,” I want to say, “this is where your husband’s love of Ayn Rand runs into the cruelties and arbitrary indignities of unbridled capitalism.” Instead we make plans to meet for a final drink in the Schooner Bar tonight (the Rands will stand me up).

Back on the ship, I try to do laps, but the pool (the largest on any cruise ship, naturally) is fully trashed with the detritus of American life: candy wrappers, a slowly dissolving tortilla chip, napkins. I take an extra-long shower in my suite, then walk around the perimeter of the ship on a kind of exercise track, past all the alluring lifeboats in their yellow-and-white livery. Maybe there is a dystopian angle to the HBO series that I will surely end up pitching, one with shades of WALL-E or Snowpiercer . In a collapsed world, a Royal Caribbean–like cruise liner sails from port to port, collecting new shipmates and supplies in exchange for the precious energy it has on board. (The actual Icon features a new technology that converts passengers’ poop into enough energy to power the waterslides . In the series, this shitty technology would be greatly expanded.) A very young woman (18? 19?), smart and lonely, who has only known life on the ship, walks along the same track as I do now, contemplating jumping off into the surf left by its wake. I picture reusing Duck Necklace’s words in the opening shot of the pilot. The girl is walking around the track, her eyes on the horizon; maybe she’s highborn—a Suite—and we hear the voice-over: “I’m 19 and I’m ready to go. I just don’t want a shark to eat me.”

Before the cruise is finished, I talk to Mr. Washy Washy, or Nielbert of the Philippines. He is a sweet, gentle man, and I thank him for the earworm of a song he has given me and for keeping us safe from the dreaded norovirus. “This is very important to me, getting people to wash their hands,” he tells me in his burger getup. He has dreams, as an artist and a performer, but they are limited in scope. One day he wants to dress up as a piece of bacon for the morning shift.

THE MAIDEN VOYAGE OF THE TITANIC (the Icon of the Seas is five times as large as that doomed vessel) at least offered its passengers an exciting ending to their cruise, but when I wake up on the eighth day, all I see are the gray ghosts that populate Miami’s condo skyline. Throughout my voyage, my writer friends wrote in to commiserate with me. Sloane Crosley, who once covered a three-day spa mini-cruise for Vogue , tells me she felt “so very alone … I found it very untethering.” Gideon Lewis-Kraus writes in an Instagram comment: “When Gary is done I think it’s time this genre was taken out back and shot.” And he is right. To badly paraphrase Adorno: After this, no more cruise stories. It is unfair to put a thinking person on a cruise ship. Writers typically have difficult childhoods, and it is cruel to remind them of the inherent loneliness that drove them to writing in the first place. It is also unseemly to write about the kind of people who go on cruises. Our country does not provide the education and upbringing that allow its citizens an interior life. For the creative class to point fingers at the large, breasty gentlemen adrift in tortilla-chip-laden pools of water is to gather a sour harvest of low-hanging fruit.

A day or two before I got off the ship, I decided to make use of my balcony, which I had avoided because I thought the view would only depress me further. What I found shocked me. My suite did not look out on Central Park after all. This entire time, I had been living in the ship’s Disneyland, Surfside, the neighborhood full of screaming toddlers consuming milkshakes and candy. And as I leaned out over my balcony, I beheld a slight vista of the sea and surf that I thought I had been missing. It had been there all along. The sea was frothy and infinite and blue-green beneath the span of a seagull’s wing. And though it had been trod hard by the world’s largest cruise ship, it remained.

This article appears in the May 2024 print edition with the headline “A Meatball at Sea.” When you buy a book using a link on this page, we receive a commission. Thank you for supporting The Atlantic.

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CATCH THE WIND IN YOUR SAILS

Southern caribbean cruises.

Set sail for a sun-soaked, wind-swept, salty and sandy adventure with a cruise to Southern Caribbean.

Cruise to Southern Caribbean and ease into island time. Surround by warm, green-blue waters and sugar-soft sand, grab a lounger at Simpson Bay in Philipsburg, St. Maarten, and watch the yachts pass by. When you're feeling ready to turn up the thrill, lace up your sneakers and scale Mount Liamuiga in St. Kitts and Nevis — at the summit, soak in the view of the dense jungle and volcanic black rocks on the shoreline below. Visit the sugar plantations in Antigua before hopping on a sailboat at Nelson's Dockyard. Or explore the rainforest in style in St. Lucia on an open-air gondola ride. Discover the magic with a Southern Caribbean cruise.

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Save Big With These Southern Caribbean Cruise Deals

Explore more while spending less with Southern Caribbean cruise deals onboard our best cruise ships

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Southern Caribbean Beach with Palm Trees

SUN-SEEKING FUN

The best Southern Caribbean cruises will take you to splash in the crystalline Caribbean Sea or rove through rainforests.

Bike Riding Trails in the Caribbean

VIVA LA VILLAGE LIFE

Grab a bicycle and ride on one of the eight trails of Christoffel National Park in Curacao. The 4,450-acre wildlife preserve is home to animals like white-tailed deer and blue iguanas. See how many you can spot during your vacation.

Stingray and Marine Life in the Southern Caribbean

SUBMARINE SIGHTSEEING

Explore the sea floor in style aboard a high-tech submarine in Aruba. Get up close and personal with colorful coral reefs, shipwrecks and schools of fish as you descend 150 feet below sea level for adventure-filled fun.

St. Thomas Girl Snorkling

THE THRILL OF THE CLIMB

Suit up and explore 86 stunning dive sites at Bonaire Marine Park, a quick boat ride from Curacao on Bonaire . The island is an attraction known for its scuba diving opportunities — and you'll soon learn why, as you swim with frogfish, seahorses, spotted eagle rays and more.

Historic Site in the Southern Caribbean

SPICE OF HISTORY

Set sail on a Southern Caribbean cruise and explore the kaleidoscope of cultural influences that make up the area.

Chateau Dubuc in Martinique

When you dock in Martinique , make your way to the Chateau Dubuc. The ruins date back to the 17th century and have a colorful history. Rumor has it, the master of the estate was a thief who would lure ships into the cove where they would slam against the rocks, leaving the wreckage fresh for looting.

Nutmeg Plantation in Grenada

SUGAR, SPICE AND EVERYTHING NICE

During your day in Grenada , head to the Dougaldston Estate and learn all about nutmeg. The spice trade was a prominent part of Caribbean history, and here you can see how the spice is harvested, processed and then exported.

Panoramic View of a Caribbean Island

MAKE IT SNAPPY

With beauty stretching from coast to coast in the Dominican Republic , there's no shortage of photo ops. Perhaps the best one is at Montana Redonda, where you can snap a sweeping panoramic view of the mountains and the sea. Ask your local guide to tell you about the region while you take it all in.

Caribbean Blue Waters and Boat

Best Southern Caribbean Cruises

A cruise to Southern Caribbean is filled with exciting destinations, each with its own style and vibe. Discover the Southern Caribbean onboard the Best Royal Caribbean Cruise Ships.

Odyssey of the Seas Aerial Night Time

BOLDER IN EVERY DIRECTION

Cruising from laid-back Fort Lauderdale , Odyssey of the Seas is all about bringing you closer to captivating shores across the eastern, western and southern Caribbean. What’s more, the region’s first Quantum Ultra Class ship brims with ways to turn every day at sea into an unforgettable, thrill-filled adventure.

EXPLORE ODYSSEY OF THE SEAS

Explorer of the Seas Sunset

ISLAND GETAWAYS

Kick back on a secluded beach in Bonaire after a dip in warm, crystal-clear waters. Scout silver waterfalls while wandering along wild jungle trails in the Dominican Republic. And snorkel the vibrant coral reefs off the coast of Antigua. After each sun-soaked day onshore, Explorer of the Seas® awaits with dazzling ice skating shows and musicals, buzzy bars and world-class cuisine that takes your tastebuds from Japan to Italy.

EXPLORE EXPLORER OF THE SEAS

WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Southern Caribbean Cruises Insider

The great thing about a Southern Caribbean cruise is that you aren't limited by the seasons. Plan your adventure for the summer, fall, winter or spring, and experience the seasonal changes in the landscape. Although Aruba is best-known for its beaches, a 4x4 trek through along the rugged coastline is an island thrill ride. You can get off the beaten path in Curacao , too, and explore underground lakes and caves. Balance out the excitement by relaxing on a beach in St. Croix where the sand is soft and white. Or grab a glass of rum in Martinique and sip as the buoyant sound of steel drums sets the scene.

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Find ideas on quiet vacation spots in the Caribbean for when you are seeking the best places to relax on your getaway even when traveling with the family.

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San Juan Puerto Rico

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10 Caribbean Beach Destination Weddings

Discover the ultimate locations for planning a destination beach wedding in the Caribbean. Enjoy a guide tailored to the best beach wedding ideas.

Glass of amber-gold Caribbean rum in front a sunset. The Caribbean.

Local Insight: Best Caribbean Rums

What are the different types of rum? How can you tell good Caribbean rum? Enjoy our vacation guide to the best places to travel for distilleries.

View of a dolphin ready for vacation travelers to swim with. Jamaica.

Swimming with Dolphins in Jamaica

Plan the ultimate swimming with dolphin experience in Jamaica as you make the most of your Caribbean vacation travels. Enjoy a tailored adventure guide.

Coco Beach Club Mother and Daughter Close Up, Perfect Day at Coco Cay

Fun Mother Daughter Vacation on a Cruise

Get inspiration for your next mother-daughter day onboard. Cruises are ideal for having fun with your family during an amazing vacation.

Coco Beach Club Couple Embracing by the Bar, Perfect Day at Coco Cay

Adult-Only Relaxing Cruises For Moms

Relaxing on a cruise has never been easier with these kid-free ideas. Enjoy an adult-only vacation while on a cruise with your family.

Historic Homes, Barbados Bridgetown

Discover the Caribbean National Dishes

Caribbean cuisine is something you can't miss when visiting the region. Explore this guide to learn about the Caribbean National Dishes.

Female teacher reading a book in a hammock while on summer vacation. North America

A Guide to the Best Places to Visit in the Caribbean

Each Caribbean island has its own identity, attractions, culinary delights and natural wonders. These are the best places to visit in the Caribbean.

Navigator of the Seas Aerial Front View

Cruise Ports Near Me: Midwest United States

As you browse cruises, the first question you ask will be "Where are cruise ports near me?" Here's how to choose a port, and what to do once you're there.

Couple on their Cruise Vacation Inside of a Cenote, Cozumel, Mexico

Relaxing Vacation Spots in the Caribbean

Visit tranquil places in the Caribbean, like the cenotes of Mexico, to find the most relaxing vacation spots.

Kids Playing Running at the Beach

Best Caribbean Islands for Families

The best Caribbean islands for families offer beaches, adventures, and new experiences. Plan your family-friendly Caribbean vacation today.

Beach Cabana Family Playing in the Sand, Perfect Day at Coco Cay

Bahamas Travel Hacks for Families

If you're taking the whole family on a Bahamas vacation, we've got some travel hacks for families to make your kid-friendly trip easier.

Scenic beaches, playas, and hotels of Cozumel island

Galveston to Caribbean Weekend Getaways

Start your western Caribbean weekend getaway from Galveston and visit the different attractions in Texas before or after your cruise vacation.

Check out the shopping options in port cities. Some cities have local shops where you can find homemade souvenirs, while others have duty-free shops where you can score a bargain.

If you want to bring rum back on the boat, learn the cruise policy before you buy. There's a limit to the amount of alcohol you can carry onto the boat from a port.

Spend your first at sea day planning your excursions. Book ahead so you have a better chance of doing your top activities.

WHERE CUISINES COLLIDE

Southern Caribbean cuisine reflects the region's diverse cultural influences, from hearty Latin American dishes based on plantains and rice to east Indian curries and island-inspired takes on British favorites. Look for locally owned spots serving humble, authentic dishes — this is where you'll find the region's most distinctive flavors.

St. Maarten Roadside BBQ Lobster

ISLAND FUSION BBQ

St. Maarten is known for its mix of Caribbean flavors. The French, east Indian and island influences are the perfect combination for a delicious roadside BBQ stop. Visit a lolo — the local term for a barbecue joint — and enjoy freshly grilled lobster. Wash it all down with some guavaberry liqueur.

Traditional Aruba Gumbo Dish

THE MELTING POT

Aruba is a melting pot when it comes to cuisine. Enjoy a mix of Argentinian meat dishes, Dutch cheeses or gumbo with pan bati, which is a pancake made from wheat and corn flour. The fusion of flavors and cultures has created a food mecca in the Caribbean.

Rum Cocktail Offered in Caribbean Rum Distilleries

Drink With Captain Morgan

Grab a glass of rum to sip your way through the distilleries in St. Croix in the U.S. Virgin Islands . Home to both Captain Morgan and Cruzan Rum distilleries, you can spend the day learning about the famed Caribbean beverage while tasting it right from the source. Rum tasting is one of the best things to do when you visit a Southern Caribbean island.

RELATED PORTS

Arrive at your favorite Southern Caribbean cruise port to explore an underground world of beauty at Harrison's Cave in Barbados. Visit natural hot springs in St. Lucia and give yourself a spa day in nature. If you're seeking something more active, head to Loterie Farm in St. Maarten for a day of hiking and zip-lining.

Wave Crashing Against Rocks on a Sunny Day in Frederiksted Beach, St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands

St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands

Sunny Day at Shirley Heights, The Lookout, St. John's, Antigua

St. John's, Antigua

Manchebo Beach Coast Sunny Day, Oranjestad, Aruba

Oranjestad, Aruba

Aerial view of the Great Salt Pond, Philipsburg, St. Maarten

Philipsburg, St. Maarten

View of the 16th Century Citadel, El Morro, San Juan, Puerto Rico

San Juan, Puerto Rico

Forest Piton Peaks, Castries St. Lucia

Castries, St. Lucia

Family Sitting by the Coast. Basseterre, St. Kitts Nevis

Basseterre, St. Kitts & Nevis

Magens Bay, Charlotte Amalie St. Thomas

Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas

Boats on Soufriere Bay, Soufriere, Dominica

Roseau, Dominica

Bathseba Beach Rock Formation, Bridgetown Barbados

Bridgetown, Barbados

kralendijk bonaire architecture aerial

Kralendijk, Bonaire

Le Diamont Beach, Fort de France, Martinique

Fort De France, Martinique

View of City Aerial, St. Georges, Grenada

St. George's, Grenada

Colorful buildings along the coast, Willemstad, Curacao

Willemstad, Curacao

Viejo San Juan Yellow Buildings, Ponce, Puerto Rico

Ponce, Puerto Rico

Rocks Beach Shore, Tortola, British Virgin Island

Tortola, British Virgin Islands

Cartagena, Colombia, Close up view of St. Peter Claver

Cartagena, Colombia

British Island Gorda Baths Woman Snorkeling

Virgin Gorda, British Virgin Islands

Pigeon Point Heritage Park nature reserve on the southwestern coast of Tobago.

Scarborough, Tobago

Paria Waterfall

Port of Spain, Trinidad

Related Destinations

Sandy Caribbean Beach with Coconut Palm Trees and Blue Sea. Saona Island

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