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'A dream job': chef Gabriel Gaté on eating his way through the Tour de France

On his annual food show, Taste le Tour, Gaté samples food and wine along the scenic Tour de France. But one region rises above the others

F rench chef extraordinaire Gabriel Gaté may have the best job in the world. For more than half of the year he travels the spectacularly scenic route of the 21-stage Tour de France bicycle race, sampling produce from artisan cheese-makers, pastry chefs and winemakers.

Gaté shares his discoveries in his gastronomic segment, Taste le Tour , which airs on SBS every night ahead of each tour stage. The show – a seven-month-long production – has been produced by Gaté for 13 years.

“The most challenging aspect is the timing of the shoots – in about 40 locations in France every year,” he says.

Gaté kindly took a break from preparing the amuse-bouches to speak with Guardian Australia about the show.

Guardian Australia: Do you enjoy watching the Tour de France yourself?

Gabriel Gaté: I have followed the Tour de France all my life. I love the competition between the great riders, as well as the superb filming and commentary of the race, and, of course, the amazing French scenery.

This is your 13th Taste le Tour. Is there a particularly memorable moment over the years you can share?

Taste le Tour is a dream job, as it involves all the skills that I have learned over 40 years. There are many highlights, the most memorable of which is a story with the legendary French chef, Paul Bocuse in his three-star restaurant in Lyon. [Bocuse is now 91 and still runs a chain of brasseries in Lyon along with his three-Michelin-star l’Auberge du Pont de Collonges .]

What does famous local ham made from black pigs bred in a village nestled high in the Pyrenees taste like?

The beautiful ham is salted and dried, so there is a strong concentration of earthy flavours in the lean part, but the highlight is the amazing rich nutty flavour of the smooth fat.

Any controversial moments during the history of Taste le Tour?

My aim is to show the best of French food and to feature the most talented artisans – the bakers, chefs, pastry chefs, winemakers. These people are generous with their time, but not all of them understand that after three hours of filming you may only use about one minute of it.

Your twin brother, the gendarme François , occasionally delights viewers with a Taste le Tour appearance. Can we expect to see him this year?

François and I have naturally a very close relationship and I loved his contribution to Taste le Tour, but we had to retire him, as his doctor recommended he eat less French butter and cheese, and to drink some of the best wines in the world moderately.

What do you prefer: a majestic bouillabaisse or a well-cultivated foie gras?

This is a tough choice as both are special taste experiences. I will settle for the bouillabaisse. It is bigger and we feature an amazing one on our show in Marseille on 22 July.

Some of your recipes seem complicated for the home cook. When you are feeling lazy, what meal do you like to prepare?

When I am tired I prepare an omelette, a salad or enjoy some cheese with good bread and a glass of wine.

Which region of France do you find the most magnificent?

For our show the Alps and the Pyrenees give us stunning images, but I have a special love for Provence with its colourful markets.

If your fans at home decided to cook one elaborate dish to celebrate the Tour, what would you recommend?

There are so many great French dishes, but I think the chicken and capsicum casserole with olives would be popular. [You can find Gabriel’s recipe for this Provençal dish here ] .

Where do you source fresh ingredients when you are in Australia?

Our markets, food halls and specialist artisans carry many of the essential ingredients used in French cooking, like fresh fish, vegetables, herbs, olive oil, butter, cream, wine and more.

Of all the dishes you prepared for Taste le Tour, which do you think deserves to take out the yellow jersey?

In 2017 we refreshed our show with a few changes. We have more content in France in the markets and with artisans, but this year we don’t feature recipes. However, we offer a selection of regional recipes on the Taste le Tour with Gabriel Gaté website . The upside-down peach tart is a winner .

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The Best of Taste Le Tour with Gabriel Gaté

Gabriel looks back on the beginnings of his Taste Le Tour series in 2005, where he started presenting the show at The Brasserie on the banks of the Yarra River in Melbourne.

Gabriel shares a look back at some of his most exciting food and drink discoveries outside of France that he has found in the past 14 years.

Gabriel revisits his trips to the famous Champagne region of France, home of the world's most prestigious beverage.

Gabriel takes a look at some of the most talented and memorable pastry chefs that he has met on the show over the years.

Gabriel highlights the native region of sommelier Christian Maier, Alsace, taking a look at the the Paul Blanck winery and more.

Gabriel Gaté reflects on some of the best of French gastronomy, including butter, cheese and cream from the Normandy region.

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Gabriel Gaté

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Taste Le Tour: Regional French Cuisine Hardcover – April 5, 2011

• Print length 152 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Hardie Grant
• Publication date April 5, 2011
• Dimensions 6 x 0.75 x 8 inches
• ISBN-10 1740668928
• ISBN-13 978-1740668927
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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Hardie Grant (April 5, 2011)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 152 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1740668928
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1740668927
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 1.34 pounds
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 6 x 0.75 x 8 inches
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The Morning

Patriotism, diversity and the election.

We explore the battle for Senate control.

By David Leonhardt

Climate change. Student debt. Diversity, equity and inclusion. The war in Gaza.

These topics are central to progressive politics today. They are the subject of campus protests and online debates. They are also almost completely absent from the campaigns of Democratic Senate candidates trying to win tough races this year.

In yesterday’s newsletter , I noted that Democratic candidates are leading the polls in six states where President Biden is trailing — and that all six have based their campaigns around populist themes of defending ordinary citizens against the powerful. Today, I’ll look at some other campaign themes.

One is the contrast between the country’s most heated political debates and the top concerns of most voters. Those heated debates are shaped by policy experts, campaign donors and political activists, all of whom tend to be highly educated and relatively affluent. The full electorate often has different priorities.

Student debt and housing costs make for a useful comparison. Student debt, a subject that the Biden administration has emphasized, may seem like the ultimate pocketbook issue. In reality, it’s more niche: Only 18 percent of U.S. adults have any federal student debt.

That helps explain why, in a recent Harvard University survey of U.S. residents between 18 and 29 years old, student debt ranked dead last when the pollsters asked respondents which of 16 issues mattered to them. Israel and Palestine ranked 15th of 16. Climate change was 12th — and, again, this was a poll of voters under 30 . The top three issues were inflation, health care and housing.

No wonder that student debt is largely missing from these Democratic campaigns, while housing — a cost almost every family faces — is a focus. Senator Jacky Rosen, who’s running for re-election in Nevada, has devoted an entire ad to housing costs. Senator Jon Tester’s campaign lists the “housing crisis” as one of Montana’s biggest problems.

A clarifying point about American politics is that people who follow it closely are very different from swing voters. With that in mind, I offer four other themes from the Senate campaigns:

1. Bipartisanship

As polarized as the country is, many voters still hunger for bipartisanship. In their ads, the six Democrats generally treat Republicans with respect and celebrate collaboration.

Senator Sherrod Brown of Ohio boasts about working with Republicans to pass a semiconductor law. Senator Tammy Baldwin of Wisconsin shows videos of Donald Trump and Biden in one ad, and a narrator explains that she worked with both to crack down on Chinese imports. Rosen brags of being “named one of the most bipartisan senators.”

The issue on which the Democrats try hardest to distance themselves from their own party is immigration, which polls show is a major Biden weakness . Rosen tells voters that she “ stood up to my own party to support police officers and get more funding for border security.” A Tester ad says that he “fought to stop President Biden from letting migrants stay in America instead of remain in Mexico.”

2. Abortion

Abortion is the opposite. It’s the issue on which the Republican Party is out of step with public opinion — and Democrats are on the offensive.

Rosen describes her likely Nevada opponent, Sam Brown, as “another MAGA extremist trying to take away abortion rights.” Tester, when listing the ways he fights for Montanans, says, “We’ve got folks who want to take away women’s right to choose.”

That said, abortion remains a secondary issue in most of these campaigns.

3. Patriotism

“Growing up poor, the only thing I really had was the American dream,” Ruben Gallego, an Arizona congressman running for Senate, says in the opening line of an ad . “It’s the one thing that we give every American no matter where they are born in life.”

That sentiment is typical of the six campaigns’ unabashed patriotism. Gallego highlights his Marine service in Iraq. Veterans’ health care is a theme of a few campaigns. An ad for Senator Bob Casey of Pennsylvania that is focused on steel includes the line “Take that, China.”

4. Diversity, subtly

The candidates’ ads portray a diverse America. When Rosen talks about housing, she shows a racially mixed group of young couples. A Brown campaign ad about the Ohio steel industry stars both Black and white workers. In a Baldwin ad , a Wisconsin businesswoman with a European accent praises the senator for fighting against federal rules about cheese making. Gallego talks about his mother’s struggles as an immigrant.

But the campaigns treat diversity as a natural part of American life, rather than as a political project. They emphasize the commonalities of Americans with different backgrounds. It’s a different approach from an identity politics that centers race.

Gallego has even achieved some notoriety for mocking the term Latinx. It disrespects the Spanish language, he has said, and is “largely used to satisfy white liberals.” He barred his congressional office from using the term.

It reminds me of a point that Steve Bannon, the far-right political strategist, has made: When American politics focus on race, Republicans — like Bannon and Trump — tend to benefit.

The flip side is that when campaigns focus on economic class, Democrats have the chance to benefit. You can see that lesson in these six populist campaigns.

Related: Watch campaign ads from these candidates .

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Hong Kong convicted 14 democracy activists of conspiracy to commit subversion in the city’s largest national security trial.

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Pro-Palestinian protesters have graduated , and their employers may not indulge their particular vision, Pamela Paul writes.

Here are columns by Charles Blow on pro-Trump rappers and Nicholas Kristof on political differences between men and women .

MORNING READS

Fleet Week: Once a year, members of the Navy, the Marines and the Coast Guard cruise into New York. It feels like a movie .

Myth: Remember that old map of taste buds on your tongue? It’s wrong .

Sleepless: At night, a modified Dodge Charger is noisily roaming downtown Seattle. No one seems to be able to stop it .

Social Q’s: “Why can’t I break into my new boyfriend’s friendship group ?”

Buy a dino: The largest Stegosaurus fossil ever found will be auctioned at Sotheby’s .

Lives Lived: Despite having no formal training in painting or marine biology, Richard Ellis fused his artistic flair with his knowledge of ocean creatures to create works like the life-size blue whale at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. He died at 86 .

N.H.L.: The Edmonton Oilers defeated the Dallas Stars to even their series , 2-2.

Women’s hockey: Minnesota became the first winner of the Walter Cup after beating Boston 3-0. This is the inaugural season of the professional women’s hockey league.

Golf: The police dropped all charges against world No. 1-ranked golfer Scottie Scheffler, two weeks after his arrest at the PGA Championship.

ARTS AND IDEAS

In the hit Japanese television show “Extremely Inappropriate!,” a grumpy phys ed teacher boards a bus in 1986 and steps out into 2024, where he must navigate a world that no longer accepts sexism and indoor smoking. The show has started conversation in Japan about changing norms : Some fans, even younger ones, find scenes set in the past refreshing, while critics decry the series as retro.

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Mira Nadon, 23, is a New York City Ballet principal and a once-in-a-generation dancer .

Behind the denim curtain: Benjamin Talley Smith may have designed some of your jeans.

Merch — like the New Yorker tote bag or tour T-shirts — dominated fashion for the better part of a decade. No longer , Samuel Hine writes for GQ.

Bette Nash, a Guinness record-holder as the world’s longest-serving flight attendant, died at 88. She started flying in 1957 and never stopped. Her regular route from Washington to Boston was nicknamed the Nash Dash .

THE MORNING RECOMMENDS …

Get this easy gochugaru salmon on the table in 20 minutes.

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Work with two screens anywhere using a portable monitor .

Make your own ice cream .

Here is today’s Spelling Bee . Yesterday’s pangram was dogpile .

And here are today’s Mini Crossword , Wordle , Sudoku , Connections and Strands .

Our colleague Kitty Bennett contributed research to yesterday’s newsletter and today’s.

Thanks for spending part of your morning with The Times. See you tomorrow. — David

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David Leonhardt runs The Morning , The Times’s flagship daily newsletter. Since joining The Times in 1999, he has been an economics columnist, opinion columnist, head of the Washington bureau and founding editor of the Upshot section, among other roles. More about David Leonhardt