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Twain's Summer Home: Visiting Elmira, N.Y.

A sign directs visitors to the Mark Twain family plot in Woodlawn Cemetery in Elmira, N.Y. David Duprey/AP hide caption

Tuesday is the 175th anniversary of the birth of Samuel Clemens, the writer we know as Mark Twain. This year also marks the 125th anniversary of the publication of his masterpiece Huckleberry Finn . And last month, 100 years after Twain's death, the world saw the publication of his official autobiography , a tome that has become so popular in recent weeks that bookstores cannot keep it in stock.

Fans of Twain may be surprised to learn that the author wrote Huck Finn -- along with his other classic works about life on the Mississippi -- in upstate New York, in a small writing cottage at his sister-in-law's summer home in Elmira. NPR made a pilgrimage to the site of Twain's brilliant writing life -- and to the place that the author is buried -- to learn the stories behind one of the satirist's favorite places.

The Writing Study -- Full Of Cats And Cigars

Quarry Farm overlooks the dairy country of the Chemung River Valley in the Finger Lakes District of western New York. In his letters, Twain called the Farm "the quietest of all quiet places." He described the view as "an elevation that commands leagues of valley and city and retreating ranges of distant blue hills." It was looking at this view that Twain wrote some of the most beloved works in American literature, including The Adventures of Tom Sawyer , Life on the Mississippi and The Prince and the Pauper.

'The Autobiography Of Mark Twain': Satire To Spare

But when Twain arrived in the sleepy New York town in 1868, he had not yet begun to write novels. He was already the well-known author of a book of travel writing (The Innocents Abroad) and had come to Elmira to court Olivia Langdon, the daughter of the richest man in town. When Twain and Langdon were married in 1870, they settled in Hartford, Conn., with their four children, but Twain continued to do most of his writing when he returned to Elmira to visit family every summer.

While in Elmira, Twain began writing his great works in a small study -- 12 feet across, with eight sides and a large window in each face -- built to mimic the pilot house of a riverboat. His tiny writing room was moved from Quarry Farm to the Elmira College campus for preservation in 1952. NPR observed the space with Twain scholar Michael Kiskis. "On this side and the other side, you'll see these little holes with grates over them," Kiskis described. "Those are the cat doors. He absolutely loved cats, and their company when he was writing in this building. You probably know he smoked a lot. He averaged between 30 and 40 cigars a day. So you gotta think of smoke, and cats and lots of paper, and breezes coming through."

'A Real Chance To Put Down Roots'

Twain was not a solitary man when he stayed in Elmira -- although he had traveled across the country after leaving his rural Missouri hometown and gone to such far-flung places as Hawaii, Europe and the Middle East, the attraction to Elmira was the stable family environment and many personal connections.

"He'd been such a vagabond in the years between 17 and 30 -- this gave him a real chance to put down roots," says Kiskis. "To be kind of hugged by a big family. And I think he really appreciated that. If you look at the major novels that frame his career, look how many of them deal with questions of family."

Twain's Resting Place

Elmira provided Twain with such strong ties that the town also represented the end of his family. The author is buried on a hill at Woodlawn Cemetery there, along with his wife, all of his children and his only grandchild, who had no children. The gravestones tell a sad story -- his son Langdon died as an infant. His daughter Suzy died when she was 24 of spinal meningitis; his wife died when she was 58; and his daughter Jean, an epileptic, died at age 29, when she drowned in her bathtub on Christmas Eve.

It was this family sadness that ultimately drew Twain away from Elmira -- he could not return after Suzy's death in 1896. His final summer homecoming to the town where he composed so many masterpieces came when he was laid to rest, 100 years ago.

It was a beloved place for the writer who captured America so clearly. In writing about the Chemung River, which he would view from his rocking chair each summer night, Twain summed up his feelings about Elmira: "Once or twice each night, we'd see a Steamboat slipping along in the dark. And every now and again, she'd belch a whole world of sparks up out of her chimney. And they would rain down in the river. And look awful pretty."

Autobiography of Mark Twain

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Mark Twain, born Samuel Langhorne Clemens married Olivia Louise Langdon in 1870 in her hometown of Elmira, New York. For well over the next two decades, the Clemens family summered in Elmira, at the home of Olivia’s sister, Susan, and her husband, Theodore Crane. It was at Quarry Farm overlooking the Chemung Valley that Clemens reminisced of his youth on the Mississippi River, thus inspiring him to write his classic American tales The Adventures of Tom Sawyer, Adventures of Huckleberry Finn, Pudd'nhead Wilson, Life on the Mississippi, and A Connecticut Yankee in King Arthur's Court.

The Mark Twain Study

The study where Clemens spent the majority of his time on Quarry Farm was moved to the Elmira College campus in 1952 and is now known as the number one literary attraction in America. The Mark Twain Study, Exhibit, and Statues on the Elmira College campus are open to visitors from May 1 through Labor Day, (Please phone 607.735.1941 for a personal visit to the Mark Twain Study and Exhibit.) Twain enthusiasts can also view a permanent Twain exhibit at the  Chemung Valley History Museum , as well as see the Mark Twain Gravesite at Elmira’s Woodlawn Cemetery.

Mark Twain Country Trolley Tours

*postponed for 2021*.

The Trolley into Mark Twain Country Tours offer a one hour guided tour of Twain’s legacy in Elmira, NY, where the author penned his greatest classics from his summer home. Tours depart Tuesday through Saturday, on the hour from 10 AM to 2 PM, during July & August from the Chemung Valley History Museum, 415 East Water Street in Elmira. Please note the trolley will not run on July 4th.  Tickets are $4 for adults and $2 for children 12 & under when accompanied by an adult. Reservations are encouraged but not required, and may be made by calling 607.734.4167.

Points of interest on the tours departing from 10 AM to 1 PM include: a stop to go inside the Mark Twain Study at Elmira College; the beautiful Maple Avenue Historic District;  Woodlawn National Cemetery (honoring Civil War Fallen Union and Confederate Soldiers, and modern era Armed Services Veterans); historic Near Westside District; Elmira Civil War Prison Camp; Dunn Field, home of the Elmira Pioneers baseball team; the  Arnot Art Museum ; the  Chemung Valley History Museum ; the  Clemens Center  ... and more! The 2 PM tour will take a different route and stop at both the Mark Twain Study at Elmira College and Twain’s gravesite at Woodlawn Cemetery.

To view a video of the Trolley into Twain Country tours,  click here.

For a description of featured sites and locator map, click here :  Trolley into Twain Country Tour 

Find the perfect holiday gifts at The Christmas House on Historic Maple Avenue in Elmira. More

Get a glimpse into the beauty of Mark Twain Country!

P.O. Box 1020 Corning, New York 14830

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15 Best Things to Do in Elmira, New York

Last Updated By VI on June 9, 2024

Eldridge Park

Harris hill soaring corporation, woodlawn cemetery of elmira, new york, national soaring museum, elmira, ny.

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Formerly one of the most popular amusement parks in New York State, Eldridge Park fell into disuse in the late 20th century, but it has since been brought back to life by a team of dedicated volunteers. The centerpiece of the park is a beautiful 1890s carousel, which zips around at 18 miles an hour and is one of the only working carousels in the country to still have brass ring feeders, but other popular attractions include a Mark Twain themed miniature golf course, a miniature train ride, and a small lake with dragon paddle boats. More things to do in NY

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Mark Twain's Summer Home, Elmira, New York

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First Arena, Elmira, New York

155 N Main St, Elmira, NY 14901, Phone: 607-734-7825

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1250 Davis St, Elmira, NY 14901

Lib's Supper Club, Elmira, New York

106 W 5th St, Elmira, NY 14901, Phone: 607-733-2752

Turtle Leaf Cafe, Elmira, NY

315 E Water St, Elmira, NY 14901, Phone: 607-767-6191

Pudgie's Pizza & Sub Shops, Elmira, New York

350 S Main St, Elmira, NY 14904, Phone: 607-734-3334

Maine Harvest Seafood, Elmira, New York

650 Pennsylvania Ave, Elmira, NY 14904, Phone: 607-733-6759

• 1. Eldridge Park
• 2. Harris Hill Soaring Corporation
• 3. Woodlawn Cemetery of Elmira, New York
• 4. National Soaring Museum, Elmira, NY
• 5. Mark Twain's Summer Home, Elmira, New York
• 6. Arnot Art Museum, Elmira, New York
• 7. Newtown Battlefield State Park
• 8. Woodlawn National Cemetery, Elmira, NY
• 9. Clemens Center, Elmira, New York
• 10. First Arena, Elmira, New York
• 11. John W Jones Museum, Elmira, New York
• 12. Lib's Supper Club, Elmira, New York
• 13. Turtle Leaf Cafe, Elmira, NY
• 14. Pudgie's Pizza & Sub Shops, Elmira, New York
• 15. Maine Harvest Seafood, Elmira, New York

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Center for Mark Twain Studies

Honoring Mark Twain

Visiting the Mark Twain Study

The Center for Mark Twain Studies invites all Mark Twain enthusiasts to visit the Mark Twain Study and Exhibit on the Elmira College Campus. Both are made available at no charge to the general public.

The Mark Twain Study and Exhibit are staffed with a docent from Memorial Day to Labor Day .

• Monday through Friday
• 10:00AM to 4:30PM
• Closed for Elmira College Holidays

During the Fall, Winter, and Spring months , the public is welcome to view the Mark Twain Study and see the Mark Twain Exhibit in Cowles Hall. The tour is meant to be a self-guided experience.

If using a GPS to locate the Study, the Elmira College address is: One Park Place, Elmira, New York, 14901.

If driving from I-86:

• Take exit 56 for NY-352 toward Elmira/Jerusalem Hill.
• Keep right at the fork, follow signs for Church St and merge onto NY-352/E Church St
• Turn right onto N Main St.
• At the traffic circle, take the 3rd exit onto Park Place.
• The best place to park your car is in the parking lot behind Cowles Hall, off Washington Avenue. (Use the map below)

If you have any questions, contact [email protected] .

Map of Elmira College

The Mark Twain and Olivia Langdon Statues

The Mark Twain statue was a gift of the Elmira College Class of 1934, who have a long standing interest in Mark Twain and the Center for Mark Twain Studies. Made of bronze, the statue weighs 376 pounds. From the base to the top of the structure, it is 12 feet high, which is two fathoms or, as riverboat pilots would say, “mark twain.”

Olivia Langdon statue was a gift of the Elmira College Class of 2008. Made of bronze, the statue weighs almost 600 pounds. Olivia, once a student at Elmira College, is attired in a dress that is part of the collections at the Chemung County Historical Museum. At the time when she wore the featured dress, Olivia had a twenty-inch waist (corseted) — this after bearing four children. The statue shows Olivia with her hand extended toward the nearby statue of her husband while his glance takes in the Study some distance away.

Woodlawn Cemetery: The Final Resting Place of Mark Twain and His Family

When Mark Twain died on April 21, 1910, he was buried next to his wife, son, and two daughters in Elmira at Woodlawn Cemetery. A large granite monument was later erected by his daughter Clara as a memorial to her father and her husband, Ossip Gabrilowitsch. Mark Twain was also laid to rest with the Langdon family. Woodlawn Cemetery is also the final resting place to a number of important people in Mark Twain’s life, including Mary Ann Cord, the inspiration to “A True Story, Repeated Word for Word as I Heard It;” Thomas K. Beecher, the leader of Elmira’s Park Church, brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe, and friend of Mark Twain; and John T. Lewis, Quarry Farm neighbor and friend to the Langdon family and Mark Twain.

CMTS has created an interactive map of important grave sites focusing on Mark Twain, the Langdon family, and late nineteenth century Elmira. You can find it HERE.

The main entrance to Woodlawn Cemetery is 1200 Walnut Street, Elmira, New York, 14905 . The entrance to Woodlawn Cemetery is just over a mile away from the Mark Twain Study.

The Chemung County Historical Society

Round out your “Mark Twain” Elmira tour with a visit to the Chemung County Historical Society . Take a walk through time and discover treasures from the past. The Chemung County Historical Society “brings history alive” through interpretive exhibitions, education programs, and publications that tell the county’s history. The museum has a permanent exhibit dedicated to Mark Twain, including artifacts used by Mark Twain, furniture from the Langdon Mansion, and many images of Twain, his family, the Langdons, and historic Elmira of the late nineteenth century. The Museum also has exhibits dedicated to a number of different aspects of the rich history of Chemung County.

The Chemung County Historical is located at 415 East Water Street in the heart of downtown Elmira, New York.

The Finger Lakes region of Upstate, NY is most famous for its wineries that produce a wide variety of mostly sweet white wines. A visit to the area is typically associated with weekends spent indulging in too much of the sweet stuff while trying to visit as many of the wineries as possible. Much to our surprise, it turns out that the area has a lot more to offer, especially if you love the outdoors. So when we were fortunate enough to be invited to take a trip kayaking the Chemung River in Elmira, NY with Southern Tier Kayaking Tours, you can bet we jumped at the chance to take in some beautiful scenery and clean fresh air.

Kayaking has quickly become one of our favorite ways to get out and explore a new area.  The combination of being out on the water and partaking in an activity that lets you both be active, (when paddling) or just be lazy (while letting the current float you down the river) is what Lauren and I would call the perfect day.  Having never been to the area, we elected to take the Paddle the Palisades tour and enjoy a 6-mile guided trip. That way we could learn about the local wildlife and take in the sights, while not having to worry about plotting a course.

Our trip began just South of the city of Corning, NY where we met up with the crew from Southern Tier. They had everything waiting and ready for us, which means it was only minutes before we were in the water and on our way. Of course we had to get our life jackets on and learn the basics of kayaking safety first.

Once in the water, we were on our way down the river.

Within moments we had out first wildlife spotting (geese  totally count :-) )

Even though it was early Spring and the leaves hadn’t come in yet, the views were absolutely stunning.

After paddling (and coasting) for a few miles, our guide gave us the option to stop for a bit and explore one of the banks of the river.

It was a great way to stretch our legs a bit and explore an area that was otherwise inaccessible. Our guides made the experience extra cool by taking the time to educate us on the area and show us some of the fossils that dated back to when this whole area was covered in the glacial ice that formed the Finger Lakes.

We also got to see some of the smaller bits of wildlife that call the Chemung river home.

After playing on land for a bit, it was time for us to get back into the water and make our way down the rest of the Chemung River. We finished up our trip at Fitch Bridge right outside of the town of Elmira, NY, and then rode back to our car in style!

Overall the tour was about 2.5 hours and was definitely on the easy side as far as the activity level goes. The crew was extremely friendly and informative and let us go at a pace that was comfortable for us. In addition to our trip along the Chemung River Southern Tier offers quite a few different kayaking packages, as well as custom tour planning for a more involved trip.

Details for Southern Tier Kayaking Tours

607-220-3642 stktours.com

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Share this:, 17 thoughts on “ kayaking the chemung river in the finger lakes, ny ”.

Kayaking is an excellent way to explore and be outside! It’s great you got to see some wildlife too! Thanks for sharing!

Mary, We are always on “the hunt” for wildlife, sometimes it’s just a whole lot smaller than we hoped it would be.

I love kayaking. This looks like a great place for it. Love your photos!!

Thanks Valen! We have fallen in love with Kayaking, partially because of this trip.

looks like a fun trip! Visiting you from #sitsblogging! Thanks, Bee

Hi Kenin, it is a a nice post. You have done good kayaking. But what was that on the palm of that man? I didn’t recognize that.

Peter, That was a small Crawfish.

We love kayaking – it’s so beautiful, and peaceful!

We’ve visited the finger lakes for wine tasting, but not for kayaking. Looks like something fun to do next time.

oh, that looks totally unreal, I love kayaking. You see so much more of your surroundings, and those are some beautiful surroundings!

I love kayaking and its a great way to burn off any wine you may have tried :)

After my last experience in a kayak at age 13 I’ve been too terrified to get in one again, but I’d be tempted to reconsider for this view!

Paddling and coasting sounds like a great combo!!! How fascinating to see those fossils, I can’t imagine how the landscape has changed since those tiny creatures roamed the earth.

Charli, It’s amazing when you think about the fact that this was all covered with glaciers at one point too.

Kenin – Great trip report. I’ve fished the Finger Lakes before, never kayaked though. Love the fossil find too!

I also love kayaking. Amazing Love Your Photos! Thanks for sharing!

This is a great post about your kayak adventures. It’s one of my passions. I really like all the pictures. I’ll have to visit the Finger Lakes and go kayak fishing asap! Thanks!

Comments are closed.

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To the Friends of Elmira Civil War Prison Camp

Mission Statement

The Friends of Elmira Civil War Prison Camp is a non-profit 503c based in Elmira, New York.

It is the mission of the Friends of the Elmira Civil War Prison Camp to protect and preserve the history of the Civil War in Elmira, Chemung County and surrounding areas and to educate the public about that history.

Project Vision

The Friends of the Elmira Civil War Prison Camp will be the primary resource for history, education and preservation of the Civil War experience for Elmira, Chemung County and the surrounding areas. This will include working cooperatively with other local groups, as well as building relationships with relevant organizations nationally.

The current project is the reconstruction of an original camp building which will be located on the grounds of the original Barracks #3, that served as both a Union training and later prisoner of war camp. The purpose of the building’s role is unknown at this time. Based on its structure, it was most probably a general purpose or utility building.

With reconstruction underway, as it currently stands, fundraising is still necessary to ensure completion of the project. Our Goal is to have the Original Camp Building Reconstructed in 2016.

Thank you for considering a donation. Your donation will go to keep this all volunteer organization operating. 

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ELMIRA, N.Y. 14902

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As a member of the Friends of the Elmira Civil War Prison Camp, your membership supports our educational and preservation projects.

The organizational staff is all volunteer and 100% of all membership fees go toward facilities maintenance, preservation, education and outreach programs.

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969 SCIO ST

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Listed By Howard Hanna Elmira , Jacqueline Ann Wilson 6077332700

969 SCIO ST ELMIRA, NY 14901

1,347 Sq Ft

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MLS# 274618

Immaculate, freshly painted 3-4 bedrooms, first floor bonus room could be 4th bedroom or office/playroom. brand new bathroom, new toilet, flooring, shower, lighting. Brand new high end convection/airfryer stove , refrigerator and dishwasher, Large side yard and big backyard. House has been totally rewired with 200 amp service. Walking distance to Arnot Ogden Hospital, perfect for LECOM students. Nice covered front porch. replacement windows, hardwoods under bedroom rugs, sewer line and power line to street have been replaced. Move in ready.

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Treasure House Tour & Kids Create workshop

• Presented By: Arnot Art Museum
• Dates: June 15, 2024
• Location: Arnot Art Museum
• Address: 235 Lake Street, Elmira, NY 14901
• Phone: (607) 734-3697
• Time: 12:00 PM to 5:00 PM
• Price: Free
• Visit Site | E-Mail

Treasure House is a special timeline format exhibition which follows the history of the Arnot family and the Arnot Art Museum from the 19th century to present. The museum staff will conduct a guided tour of the exhibition upon request. Kids Create! is a free art workshop which will have a facilitated art activity based on the Museum's history for kids grade K-5. Both offerings are free of charge and Free Admission to the gallery spaces will also be offered on 15 June 2024 in honor of Path Through History weekend.

Arnot Art Museum

• 235 Lake Street
• Elmira, NY 14901

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