2001 dodge dakota cruise control diagram

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cruise control not working...

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Hi, I'm a recently new owner of an 00 Dak. My cruise control does not work... Is this common? is there a quick easy fix? Thanks.  

check your fuses and 3rd brake light!  

Ok I'll check the fuse tomorrow. Why does the 3rd break light have anything to do with the cruise??  

The 3rd brake light is part of the curcuit (sp). If it is bad then there is no power supplied to the contols.  

just remove the whole set-up- CC is over rated  

yeah, then I would have to figure out how to make my cruise buttons on the wheel control the volume for the radio.  

I had a problem with my cruise control when I bought my ride. It was that vacuum control piece under the hood was broken. Just throwing that out there.  

May have to get a new clock springi have a 97 and had to change mine it is not to hard but MAKE sure you take off the neg battery lead or poof u just set off the air bag  

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Fuse Box Diagrams

All automotive fuse box diagrams in one place

Dodge Dakota (2001-2004) fuses and relays

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In this article, we consider the second-generation Dodge Dakota after a facelift, produced from 2000 to 2004. Here you will find fuse box diagrams of Dodge Dakota 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004 , get information about the location of the fuse panels inside the car, and learn about the assignment of each fuse (fuse layout) and relay.

See other Dodge Dakota:

Fuse Layout Dodge Dakota 2001-2004

Cigar lighter (power outlet) fuses in the Dodge Dakota: fuse #17 in the Instrument panel fuse box, and fuse “D” in the engine compartment fuse box.

Table of Contents

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box

Fuse box location.

Fuse Box Diagram

Engine Compartment Fuse Box

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• Dakota Digital Manuals
• Automobile Electronics
• Quick start manual

Dakota Digital CRS-2000 Quick Start Manual

• Manual (20 pages)
• Installation & owner's manual (26 pages)
• page of 20 Go / 20

Table of Contents

• Troubleshooting
• Parts Diagram
• Safety Procedures
• Helpful Hints
• Switch Settings
• Installation
• Operating Instructions

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Summary of Contents for Dakota Digital CRS-2000

• Page 1 CRS-2000 & CRS-3000 Cruise Control System Introduction You have purchased one of the finest Cruise Control Systems on the market. The Cruise Control features: Enhanced Adaptability Enhanced Features  Works with 3, 4, 5, 6 or 8 Cylinders  Modular Design ...
• Page 2 BLACK wire to ground, RED wire from sensor harness to GRAY wire from cruise harness. When the cruise control is used with a Dakota Digital STR3B, STR4B, STR5B, STR6B, STR3C, STR6C, STR5D, STR6D, STR2000 display system the gray wire should be connected to the SPEED terminal on the display system control box. On the VFD3, VFD3X or VHX display systems, the gray wire should be connected to the 2K or SPD OUT terminal, (2K or 4K PPM signal), on the display system control box (please see VFD3/VHX instruction manual for changing between 2K and 4K).
• Page 3 If you are using L.E.D. taillights please wire a relay as shown here to allow for proper Cruise Control operation. Use Dakota Digital RLY-1, or any 5 pin SPDT normally open relay. When using the relay, the Violet must go to Pin 30 (RLY-1 Black) ONLY.

Page 4: Table Of Contents

Page 5: safety procedures, page 6: switch settings, page 7: installation.

• Page 8 MEASURING THROTTLE CABLE TRAVEL (Continued) F. Install the end bead of the BEAD CHAIN in each BEAD CHAIN CONNECTOR with a bead (or beads) between them to add additional length. The beads inside the BEAD CHAIN CONNECTORS do not add length. NOTE: Each bead of the BEAD CHAIN added between the BEAD CHAIN CONNECTORS will give you 7mm (.28”) of slack.
• Page 9 ATTACHING CRUISE CABLE TO THROTTLE (Continued) B. Pulley Assembly (Dual) Using The T-BAR ADAPTOR 1. Remove air cleaner to expose the dual pulley segments. 2. Find the blank anchor that is located above the throttle anchor. Follow the instructions for anchoring the CRUISE CABLE.
• Page 10 ATTACHING CRUISE CABLE TO THROTTLE (Continued) E. General Motors™ and Chrysler™ Throttle using THREE BEAD CONNECTOR. 1. Most General Motors™ vehicles and many Chrysler™ vehicles can use the THREE BEAD CONNECTOR to attach the CRUISE CABLE. 2. Attach the BEAD CHAIN to the THREE BEAD CONNECTOR. Secure beads by folding the metal tabs.
• Page 11 ANCHORING CRUISE CABLE There are three (3) types of connectors used to anchor the CRUISE CABLE: A. SNAP-IN ADAPTOR B. General Motors™ Blank Anchor C. FLAG NUT A. SNAP-IN ADAPTOR 1. To use the SNAP-IN ADAPTOR, it will be necessary to form threads on the end of the CRUISE CABLE.
• Page 12 ANCHORING CRUISE CABLE (CONTINUED) 4. Insert the CRUISE CABLE through the blank anchor and thread the other LOCKWASHER NUT in place. If you do not use the other LOCKWASHER NUT, install a TUBE CLAMP 152mm-178mm from the anchor point. This will keep the CRUISE CABLE from backing out of the anchor.
• Page 13 ANCHORING CRUISE CABLE (CONTINUED) 4. The FLAG NUT may also be used to anchor the CRUISE CABLE using the CABLE BRACKET. CRUISE HARNESS A. Push Rubber Grommet securely into place on the cover of the CRUISE MODULE. B. Straighten the CRUISE HARNESS and find the 2- & 4-pin mating connectors. Separate the 2- & 4-pin connectors. A small screwdriver may be needed.
• Page 14 TACH over-rev safety feature will be inactive; this is dangerous and not recommended. Dakota Digital, INC. always recommends the attachment of the TACH wire. On a vehicle with a manual transmission, the TACH wire connection is not required only when CLUTCH DISENGAGEMENT SWITCH (Kit# 250-4206) has been installed;...
• Page 15 [Signal Generator or Magnet & Coil Pick- Up Kit (Kit # 250-4165) (Dakota Digital P/N SEN-4165)]. If you use an auxiliary speed sensor, plug it into auxiliary speed sensor connector and trim the Gray VSS wire short as not to pick-up any stray signals.

Page 16: Troubleshooting

• Page 17 TROUBLESHOOTING Continued B. Auxiliary Speed Sensor ([SIGNAL GENERATOR or MAGNET & COIL PICK-UP KIT (KIT# 250-4165)] Raise one (1) of the vehicle drive wheels (both drive wheels on a limited slip differential) and block the non drive wheels. Use a support stand for safety. Spin the drive wheel by hand as fast as possible (You must spin the wheel at least 4.8 KPH (3 MPH) or faster in order to test an auxiliary speed signal.) The LED should flash and continue to flash at the same rate.
• Page 18 Troubleshooting Guide IMPORTANT: Make sure to always disconnect the negative cable from the battery if you are going to be working on or under the vehicle. Failure to do so can result in serious injury if the system is accidentally activated. Problem Possible cause Solution...

Page 19: Warranty

Page 20: operating instructions, this manual is also suitable for:, rename the bookmark, delete bookmark, delete from my manuals, upload manual.

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A guide to diagnosing cruise control problems on 96-97 Trucks

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A guide to diagnosing cruise control problems on 96-97 Trucks (This is a work in progress, I will add photos later if needed) I am writing this up after chasing my tail for almost 2 weeks, fixing almost everything related to the speed control system. The previous owner said it had not worked in 10 years... He thought it was a fuse. If you have a different year of truck, this *Might* help, but I dont know. I know the wiring in 1996-1997 rams is the same when related to cruise. I would recommend also thumbing through the service manual, I found one here: Manuals. First, in order to get ANY power to ANYTHING in your cruise system you have to have the truck running, rev it to about 2k RPM, then the PCM powers circuit V32 (Yellow with red stripe) which provides power the the switches, while also sending through the brake switch to the servo. ---------------------------------------------- Step 1, Clock Spring: Does your cruise control light come on? If yes, you can most likely skip this step! The Clock Spring is a ribbon cable that allows things to stay connected when you rotate the steering wheel from left to right. If not, does your horn work? (If not, it could also be as simple as a fuse) Does your Airbag light remain illuminated? If so, odds are its your clockspring. However, your clock spring can be bad and your horn still work, which happened to me. Cheapest I found a brand new one was $120, but I got mine from a pull a part lot out of a Ram 250 Van. The ones for 98-01 Rams are brand new $50, but require some splicing of the harness. Testing: Use a Torqx driver (Mine was T20) remove the three screws holding the lower collum cover in place, exposing a flat plug. Unplug it. The farthest most drivers side wire will be yellow with a red stripe. This is the wire that powers the switches. Now, remove the cruise buttons using a Phillips screw driver. Unplug them, see your little yellow wire with a red stripe? This wire is your friend. Now get out your trusty multi-meter. Your testing for a connection, not voltage, so use an ohms setting. Test connectivity between where the buttons plug in and the pins behind the steering wheel. Do you have a connection? If yes, test the rest of of the wires that come from the cruise buttons. If no, then your clock spring is bad. Congrats, you have found your problem! ---------------------------------------------- Step 2, Brake switch. Only move onto this if your cruise light is working. Do your brake lights work? This does NOT mean your switch is good. V32 (The yellow wire with a red stripe) connect to V30 (Dark Brown with Red) through the Brake Switch. With the brake peddle not pushed, electricity should be able to pass through. Check this with your trusty multi meter. Also, try lifting the peddle. This part can be re-adjusted, which might help. A brand new one is $10 and installs with no tools in about 5 mins. Just replace it and save a headache. ---------------------------------------------- Step 3, Vacuum. Do your heater controls not work? This most likely your issue! A lack of issue with heater controls DOES NOT mean your vacuum is fine. This is the most frequent problem that these cruise systems have. The vacuum line goes under the drivers side battery to the servo, where it gets corroded and begins to fail. Check your system for good vacuum. ---------------------------------------------- Wow, your clockspring is good, your brake light switch has been tested, and your vacuum is tight and awesome. Your cruise light comes on, but your set and acceleration buttons do absolutely nothing, or you start to set it and then it slowly looses speed. Move on to Step 4. ---------------------------------------------- Step 4, Cruise Servo: The last potential problem is the Servo. This is a bit more complex, because the part numbers are different now. According to the Dodge Dealer the old part number was 53009315, which they no longer have. They have replaced it with part number 4669979 which they want $150 for. They also told me that I will need a different wire harness, part number 3013979AB, which they want $50 for. Remove the servo, there are two nuts holding it to bracket, a tiny little pin holding the throttle cable to the servo, a vacuum line, and an electrical plug. Some say you have to pull the battery tray, I was able to remove the servo just after pulling the battery, leaving the tray in place. Pull it out, visually inspect it. Mine had a big hole in it. I can also tell you that the one in my 1993 ZJ Grand Cherokee is the exact same servo as the one in the Ram. ---------------------------------------------- Step 5, Fix a Surge Issue: Your truck has cruise control, but its funky and does not work right. Surges badly, ect. First, check the vacuum. If its good, then we have a fix for surging too! (Chrysler put out this informational bulletin, not me) If the vehicle operator **repeatedly** presses and releases the SET button with their foot off of the accelerator (a "lift foot set" to begin speed control operation), the vehicle may accelerate and exceed the desired set speed by up to 5 MPH (8 km/h) and then decelerate to less than the desired set speed before finally achieving the desired set speed. The speed control has an adaptive strategy (ability to learn) that compensates for vehicle-to-vehicle variations in speed control cable lengths. When the speed control is set with the vehicle operators foot off of the accelerator pedal, the speed control "thinks" there is excessive speed control cable slack and adapts (learns). If "lift foot sets" are continually used, the speed control overshoot/undershoot condition will develop. To "unlearn" the overshoot/undershoot condition, the vehicle operator has to press and release the SET button while maintaining the desired set speed with the accelerator pedal (not decelerating or accelerating), and then turn the speed control switch to the OFF position **(or press the CANCEL button, if equipped) after the speed control has been engaged for 10 seconds or longer.** This procedure must be performed approximately 10-15 times to completely unlearn the overshoot/undershoot condition. ---------------------------------------------- These trucks are almost 20 years old, if your cruise worked recently, you most likely have only one problem. If your truck is like mine, and has not had functional cruise for a decade, you should bet on more than one problem. If your experiencing the cruise trying to "Run away" and just keep reving, a slow drop in speed, or you bought a junkyard servo this video may be helpful to you.  

what if when you set cruise and it just keeps getting slower and slower some times it will set and some time you can click the it and it wont do anything ???  

Although I do not have any personal experiance with this problem, it sounds like a lack of vacuum to the servo. I think step one would be investing in a vacuum testing gauge. The other possibility is the servo failing. It is designed to control how much vacuum it vents and how much it maintains, if it is not able to properly limit the venting of the vacuum, then your cruise will not be able to maintain. On my truck, 12 hours after parking and shutting off the engine, the vacuum system is still tight and I will hear a hiss when I seperate any of the hoses. What steps have you taken so far to diagnose the problem?  

Nice write-up The Joe. I would say start with the servo first though. These are notorious for getting eaten up by the acid from the driver side battery. Nothing like putting a critical part under a battery. The good old Mopar Engineers must have been hard at work figuring out ways to cost us money with dumb ideas like this!  

One other thing to add only because it took me forever to figure it out. If anyone has done the relay mod to lock out overdrive on start up instead of manually locking it out with the switch this could also be your problem after I removed the relay it works as it should.  

Thanks Joe - step 5 is exactly what is happening to my 98 12v. Does anyone know if that "fix" applies to the 98 cruise as well?  

Added a video to the post that will help with people who want to refurbish a servo that is still intact but has some personality flaws, things like when the cruise trys to continue accelerating, or slowly decelerate. Check it out! I dont know if it does or doesnt, I have not spent enough time under the hood of any 98s. It *Should* since the fix is for the servo itself and works on many different cars and trucks that have had this save style servo.  

My cruise control works perfectly, EXCEPT, when I'm going down a hill. Granted, a decently steep grade. Once I crest the hill, everything works fine, until about another 100 yards, then my truck jerks pretty hard. It'll do this every 100 or so yards until im at the bottom. It really feels like the truck is cutting out, but i know thats not the case, because if the cruise is off, it just moseys on down the hill no problems. Is this the surging issue you were talking about? Or do I have something totally different going on?  

Thats an odd issue, I wish I had some helpful input, but that is new to me. The surging I talked about seemed to be more when you set the Cruise control and it would try and accelerate more than you wanted. Best of luck figuring it out, and if you get an answer, please share it with us in this thread.  

I have been having a problem with my cruise (1st gen, but I'm hoping someone else can come up with something I haven't) I can set the cruise, it will hold for a period of time, anywhere between 10 seconds and 100 miles. never know how long it will last. usually lesser time. I have tried replacing the brake light switch because the last trailer I pulled I could see the reflection of brake lights randomly flashing. didn't fix the cruise issue. I've checked the vacuum hose going to the cruise, good. I thought a bad relay, when a relay begins to go bad, it can over-heat and quit. I can not find a cruise control relay. I'm thinking a bad servo next? any suggestions please  

1998 TRUCK CRUISE ELECTRONICS DIAGNOSIS: The wiring is slightly different on these trucks. Cruise switch signal coming out of the clockspring should be red with a light green tracer. The ground is black with a light blue tracer. IMO, this should be the electronics test sequence if you cannot get your cruise light to turn on: 1.) Disconnect negative battery terminals and wait 2 minutes. Remove airbag with (2) 8mm bolts to expose cruise switch wiring. Remove switches with torx bit. Test switch continuity. Resistance values are as follows, +/- a few % should be acceptable: ON: 909 ohms SET: 6650 ohms RESUME/ACCEL: 15,400 ohms CANCEL: 0 (closed circuit) COAST: 2940 ohms If your ON ohms are something crazy like 450, you need a new switch. If switch values are ok proceed. 2.) Clockspring continuity. My horn worked, and airbag light was off, but my clockspring was still bad. Know for sure by checking continuity with multimeter. Take the column cover off and you will see where a flat rectanguler connector goes into the clockspring. Remove and test far right pin with the connector that clips into the buttons. Make sure to test both sides of the button connector, one is a ground that goes back through the middle pin in the rectangular connector. Check that as well. My clockspring had no continuity in the speed switch signal wire, had to replace. 3.) If clockspring and switches are good, check underneath the column for broken wires. On 98 it should be the red with green tracer and black with blue tracer. If wires are good, check connection at PCM. You also can replace the brake switch, however this does not turn the cruise light off, it just disengages the servo. 4.) If everything has checked out, continuity good everywhere and you've used dielectric grease on all the connectors, try looking into the neutral safety switch for manual trans and some sort of neutral switch for auto trans. It has been discussed that this is a possible component in the system that needs to be verified before the computer will turn cruise on. If the neutral switch is fine, you're probably looking at a bum PCM. Your life sucks.  

I am having a somewhat similar issue with my 98 12v. My problem is that my cruise maxs out a 55 mph and it just wont make any more. Doesnt seem to surge or anything just dead heads at 55. Any ideas or directions to go would help huge. Thank you!!!  

On that, I'd suspect a minor vacuum leak (either in the lines somewhere, or the actuator itself). The actuator is located under the drivers side battery and they're known to rust out, and 17 year old rubber hoses can get dried and cracked... I.E., I suspect everything is 'working' correctly (electrics are good, the controls are good, the ECU is good, the brake switch is good, etc), but the actuator doesn't have enough vacuum power due to a leak, to pull the fuel lever hard enough to get past 55. The vacuum system is (supposed to be) pretty well sealed. I can pop one of the hoses off 10 minutes after turning my truck off and there's still a vacuum in the lines (you can really noticeably hear a 'pop/suck' on disconnecting a line). If you crack a vacuum line and don't hear that noise, you've got a leak somewhere. Jim  

^cable adjustment/problem? Cruise drops out randomly or on bumps. ~ The brake switch is fine, but > switch bracket needs bent/adjusted > pedal is not returning enough or bushing worn. If it's bad it will affect TC lockup to, but that seems less sensitive.  

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Dodge Dakota: diagrams of fuse boxes and relays (2001-2004)

Dodge Dakota (2001-2004) — This is the second generation of the Dakota family. The car was produced in 2001, 2002, 2003 and 2004. Dodge Dakota was presented in a 2-door and a 4-door pickup truck, with 2.5 L, 3.7 L, 3.9 L, 4.7 L, 5.2 L, 5.9 L gasoline engines and 2.5 L diesel engines.

In this article you will find information about location of the fuse boxes and relays with their diagrams and assignment, suitable for all Dakota models (ST, R/T, Sport, SLT, SXT, SXT+) and also for Regular Cab, Extended Cab, Quad Cab and Club Cab.

Especially we will highlight the fuses responsible for the Cigarette lighter  and  Fuel pump

See also: Dodge Dakota: diagrams of fuse boxes and relays (1997-2000)

Interior fuse box

Cabin junction fuse box is located on the left side of the dashboard, right in its end.

To gain access to the fuse panel you have to:

The Cigarette lighter fuse is at number 17 with an amperage of 15 Amps. The Fuel Pump has 2 fuses :1st – at number 10 with an amperage of 10 Amps and the 2nd fuse – under the hood at number 2 with an amperage of 20 Amps, also you can check Fuel Pump relay – № R7 (see below).

Relays in Central timer module (CTM)

If you have a problem with the door locks, you can also check the CTM (BCM) and the relays built into it.

• R1 and R2 – Door Lock and Unlock relays (built into Central timer module, non serviceable relays)

Fuse box and relays under the hood

In the engine compartment mounting block located on the left side (in the direction of car movement) next to the Battery.

Engine compartment fuse box is also called the Power Distribution center (PDC).

To access to the fuses and relays:

We hope our article with the layout, purpose of fuses and relays and a description of where they are will help you in troubleshooting and repair the car. Leave your comments below!

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Cruise control issue 2000 dakota

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I've been working on a 2000 Dakota 4.7L V8 project truck for a couple of months now and I'm stumped as to how to approach the cruise control. For starters I can't find the CC light anywhere on the indicator panel in the dash. The service manual lists it, but I can't find the symbol in the truck. I haven't even found a good drawing that would show where to look for that symbol. Next issue I have is that when driving over 35mph I can't get the the cruise control to work. I've tried the on/off and the set button and all combinations possible without luck. I thought it may be a clock spring issue but my horn works... All of the fuses are good and the I have zero p-codes. Where else should I look for a possible cause? Is there any kind of testing I could do to narrow down the possibilities? Thanks  

Check under your hood around the air box as the CC assembly is something that resembles a miniaturized brake booster with a cable in the center of the unit, that connects to the throttle cable assembly on the throttle body. If you have an air intake, the CC assembly will have to be moved forward toward the front corner on the passenger side. Make sure all the parts of the unit are seated and secure and the cable isn't getting caught/rubbing on anything. My cruise control lights up on the dash as an amber light that says cruise. As I've been driving around town quite a bit I'm not sure where it is exactly on the dash. I know my Taurus it's on the bottom right of the dash.... When you start the vehicle, all the lights should illuminate for a second or so. As the Dak and Durango are similar under the hood, check out the 2000 factory service manual here http://www.biodsl.com/durangofsm.htm I'm not sure if they show the instrument lamp locations.  

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Fuse box diagrams, fuse layouts and assignment

Dodge Dakota (2000-2004) Fuse Diagram

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Fuse box diagram (fuse layout), location and assignment of fuses and relays Dodge Dakota (2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004).

Checking and Replacing Fuses

Fuses protect the car’s electrical systems from short circuits. To check a fuse, look at the silver-colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure to replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating.

Fuses of the same amperage can be temporarily borrowed from another fuse location if a fuse goes out. Replace the fuse as soon as possible.

• Before replacing a fuse check that the key has been removed from the ignition and that all the services are switched off and/or disengaged.
• When replacing a blown fuse, it is important to use only a fuse having the correct amperage rating. The use of a fuse with a rating other than indicated may result in a dangerous electrical system overload.
• If a properly rated fuse continues to blow, it indicates a problem in the circuit that must be corrected.

Instrument Panel Fuse Box Diagram

The fuses are on the left side of the dash panel.

Engine Compartment Fuse Box Diagram