ford excursion 7.3 starter bolts

• 00-03 Excursion 7.3L
• OEM / Factory

Bolts & Fasteners

CCV Doghouse Mounting Screw Set (2) 94-03

Part number: 40054r1, manufacturer: ford motor company.

Crankshaft Damper Bolt 94-03 7.3L

Part number: f4tz6a340a.

Driveshaft Bolt - Flange to Yoke 99-07

Part number: n800594-s100.

Driveshaft Bolt - Strap to Pinion 99-07

Part number: f81z4n272aa.

Exhaust Manifold Bolt Set 94-03

Part number: f4tz9s425a.

Fan Blade Mounting Bolt 99-03 7.3L

Part number: 57632s2.

HPOP Gear Bolt 94-03

Part number: w302170.

HPOP Gear Washer 94-03

Part number: 1818210c1, manufacturer: international.

HPOP Mounting Bolt Kit 94-03

Part number: rdp-hpop-mount.

Injector Oil Deflector Spout Bolt 94-03

Part number: f4tz9r551a.

Lower Injector Hold Down Bolt Set (2) 94-03 - 39mm

Part number: f4tz9r523a.

Oil Cooler Assembly Bolt Kit 94-03 7.3L

Part number: w300088.

Oil Pan Mounting Bolt 94-03

Part number: 1822746c1.

Piston Oil Jet Bolt Set (8) 94-03

Part number: w300052.

Rocker Arm Bolt 94-03

Part number: f4tz6a527aaa.

Starter Mounting Bolt 99-03 7.3L

Part number: w500234-s439.

Thermostat Cover Bolt Set (3) 94-03 7.3L

Part number: w300005.

Turbo Pedestal Bolt Kit 99.5-03

Part number: 06032168312.

Turbo Re-Install Kit - 99-03

Part number: gz-14-049, manufacturer: riffraff diesel.

Up-pipe Reinstall Hardware Kit 94-03

Part number: w300050.

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03 7.3 Starter Mounting Bolt Holes Stripped

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So as i'm putting in a starter again... I decided to get a torque wrench from the advanced auto parts while I was there. I read the torque spec up on the internet here as 38ft/lbs. And I found out why my starter kept breaking... (One currently in went 3 weeks)... The top bolt that holds the starter in, the threads on the inside of the hole have to be stripped. The bolt looks fine. The bolt will torque down a little bit, then break loose again, and repeat forever while i'm tightening it. I will also say, the top and bottom bolts are two different sizes. My bottom bolt is an 11/16ths, and my top bolt is something smaller, I don't remember. Is it like that from factory? Or did the previous owner do that? How do I go about fixing this?  

Heli-Coil! Take the Starter out, go to the Auto Parts Store with the top bolt, get an " Insert Kit " for Thread repair and install it (I'm pretty sure that would be your best bet...)  

The only other thing I can think of if there is enough material to re-tap and go one size larger with the same grade bolt... I know they make thread insert kits where you drill out and retap and insert a secondary set of threads that the bolt fits into. Having never had to replace a starter on the 7.3L I don't know exactly what there is to work with. Considering the amount of torque and stress placed on a starter I would definitely go with a helicoil first since weakening the material on the starter itself would be a last resort upgrading in bolt size.  

Yeah my last 2 starters had the actual stud that connects the starter to the battery fall off. I'm attributing this to the loose bolt on the top that caused the starter to rattle and break the stud off. Except when it happened this past weekend, it was catastrophic. The stud broke off, and shorted out on the side of the starter and melted through the side of the starter. Effectively welding the bolt, stud, and cable end together. As well as welding the negative to the drivers side battery. So now I need a new starter cable as well, and possibly a battery. Praying to god nothing on my PCM got damaged... In any case, I'm going to call my mechanic tomorrow and see how much he'll charge me to fit an insert into the hole for the bolt. I'll probably loc-tite the bolts in, as well, to avoid this happening again. If it's a ridiculous price I guess i'll just have to do it myself, we'll see. Stay tuned for more. Oh and if all that wasn't bad enough. It happened to me way out in the woods, about 60 miles from the nearest highway. My friend pulled me all the way through the woods with a yacht rope to the highway where I was able to get a tow truck to get me home. It was a mission, left at about 3pm, got home around 10am. And all my friend could say was "Just HAD to buy a Ford didn't ya?!", as he's pulling me back with his half ton Dodge 360...  

My mechanic put a heli coil in, installed the starter, put in a new starter cable, and 2 new batteries. All for $782.XX He's not cheap, but he does good work. Truck runs great now! Hopefully no more broken starters... I should've asked if he loctite'd the threads, oh well.  

In my own experience with "not permitted to Fail, equipment" Time-serts work much better, specially if you need to take the part in and out.. Second, if the casting is SemiFUBAR, you can always use "Devcon" or some professional tread locker and make the bolt into a "Stud" (Affix to the casting and then use a Nut to hold the starter, if anything is easier to install since now you have a guide Pin.. just my experience..  

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• 1999-2007 Ford Super Duties
• 99 & up 7.3L Power Stroke Engine & Drivetrain

What size is the starter bolt?

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My starter was hanging by a few threads of 1 bolt last night. I need to get a bolt or 2,and don't want to crawl on the ground anymore than I have to with a foot of snow. Any one know off hand what size the bolts are , length and thread? Thanks,El  

I took the lower bolt off and realized the upper mounting bolt is still there....connected to a broken starter flange. I don't need a bolt,I need a $225 starter!!  

Don't buy it from napa. They have honored their free replacements, but I have been through 4 or 5 of thier crappy starters.  

I second the opinion on Napa. I had one go bad after just a couple of months conveniently lost the receipt (my bad) and even though I could show a credit card statement they wouldn't honor it. I bought a used starter from a junkyard to get me through while I waited for my Denso starter to show up. If you can stand the cost I highly recommend buying a high-torque starter. You'll be amazed at the difference.  

I hate Crapa Auto! I got a POS Duralast from Autozone. It was in stock and had a lifetime warranty for $165.:icon_rolleyes: I thought about the high torque unit from DB,but with the 1 year only warranty + shipping + returning the Duralast.:thdown:  

buy the denso starter It cranks twice as fast as stock, no core charge, and you will find for about $250 at a denso dealing alt/elec shop. If they want more, I can find the name of the place in seattle I bought mine from. Unfortunately, it was for my work truck. Since seeing the difference, I am almost, not quite, hoping the one on my 01 4x cc drw will fail so I can justify replacing.  

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7.3 Powerstroke Starter Upgrade – COLD CRANKING POWER

This  7.3 Powerstroke starter upgrade  I discovered on Amazon will turn your diesel engine over like a 300 pound gorilla!

After upgrading to this high torque starter, the first time I cranked over my 2002 Ford F250 Powerstroke I thought it was going to break something.

Yes, it was that much more powerful than the stock starter!

Dead Head Diesel is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Problems

There are several reasons that your 7.3 Powerstroke may have trouble starting or fail to start at all. Believe me, I chased batteries, cables, and fuel delivery before finally figuring out that my 2002 F250 7.3 Diesel’s starter was simply worn out.

And all that was after 2 replaced batteries (though they were weak/dead as well) and the auto parts store swearing up and down that there was nothing wrong with my starter … after they bench tested it and passed it as good.

After twenty years and a couple hundred thousand miles, your starter will most likely develop problems.

OEM 7.3 Starter Issues Include:

• Long crank times
• Weak or weird cranking
• Clicking while cranking – (Most likely weak or dead batteries)

The trouble is, a host of other common 7.3 problems can cause the same symptoms as a weak or dead 7.3 starter.

One telltale sign of a bad 7.3 starter is that the cranking speed will start out okay but progressively slow until it almost stops.

Bench test your 7.3 starter

One quick way to tell if your starter is weak or dead is to remove it and take it into your local auto parts store and have them bench test it. I’m not the best guy in the world with a multimeter, so this is my 7.3 starter test of choice—take it to your local auto parts store.

Careful though, mine tested fine at the auto parts store but was dead nonetheless. I read several other forum posts where this exact thing happened to other 7.3 Powerstroke owners.

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Location

We’re a little bit ahead of ourselves though…

First, let’s identify the 3 main parts of your 7.3 Powerstroke “starter.”

1 – 7.3 Starter Motor Assembly – This is the big mechanical part of the starter that actually physically cranks the flywheel. And it’s located right behind the frame crossmember under the vehicle on the passenger side.

2 – 7.3 Powerstroke Starter Solenoid – this is attached to the 7.3 starter and is the electrical component of the starter. It supplies the juice to actuate the piston so the starter can engage the flywheel gears.

3 – 7.3 Starter Relay – This is a relay generally mounted inside the engine compartment on the passenger fender. The starter relay provides a high current voltage source to the starter. It’s main function is to control a high current supply via a low current circuit.

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Relay

Pre-2002 7.3 powerstroke starter relay.

Before 2002, the 7.3 Powerstroke starter relay was a traditional bulky electrical relay with screw terminals to attach physical wires to it.

Part Number: SW-1951C  (eBay Link)

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Relay Location

Pre-2002 starter relay location.

This is a video of a Ford F150, but it has a great look at the location of the 7.3 Powerstroke starter relay wiring and its location on the inside of the engine bay, passenger-side fender. Also, there’s some good explanations around troubleshooting a bad relay.

Post-2001 7.3 Powerstroke Starter Relay

The 2002 and after 7.3 starter relay looks more like a big black fuse than the round terminal-looking relay of previous model years.

2002-2003 7.3 Starter Relay Location

There were a lot of electrical changes after the 2001 model year 7.3 Ford Diesels. Moving the fender mounted starter relay was one of them. The central junction box—dash fuse panel—now houses the starter relay for the 2002 and 2003 7.3 Powerstroke starter.

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Solenoid

7.3 starter solenoid vs relay.

Careful—many people use the terms starter “relay” and “solenoid” interchangeably. They aren’t the same thing.

In electrical terms, the 7.3 starter relay is an on/off switch detailed above, whereas a 7.3 starter solenoid is an electrically controlled device that activates a piston and is technically part of the 7.3 starter assembly.

This solenoid is mounted on top of the 7.3 starter. The 7.3 Powerstroke’s starter solenoid is used to activate the starter’s bendix drive causing it to engage with the flywheel teeth and turn over the engine. (see diagram above)

Best Starter for 7.3 Powerstroke?

Though the particular 7.3 starter upgrade I recommend in this article may indeed be the best replacement starter for your ailing 7.3 Powerstroke’s tired old starter, it’s not without its annoyances…

UPDATE : Read the 5 Best Starters for a 7.3 Powerstroke article to see our alternative list of “best” 7.3 starters to fit any budget and application.

There are two “challenging” things you’ll find when you go to replace your OEM 7.3 starter.

One – This 7.3 starter replacement upgrade is much bigger —almost twice the size of your OEM starter. And that’s a good thing, but some F250 7.3 Powerstroke year models require that you use a metal grinder and grind down about 1/8″ off the cross member. Otherwise, in order to get this 7.3 starter upgrade to fit between the cross beam and the starter socket.

Yep, I said grinding the frame! I did it—sparks and all—and though it wasn’t what you might consider an easy install, it wasn’t that bad. And afterward, this new high torque starter slipped right into position.

The second annoyance I encountered was that the 7.3 starter ground screw that comes with this new high torque model is so tiny that it can be maddening to get it connected to your 7.3 starter’s ground terminal once the starter’s mounted. Add to this the fact that you’ll be screwing the 7.3 starter ground screw in blind and by feel…

HINT: I turned the ground screw and the circular electrical lead that it goes through around and connected them from the opposite side of the starter ground screw hole. Worked like a charm.

Oh, and whereas your factory starter may have been mounted with three 7.3 Powerstroke starter bolts, this starter attaches with two—there’s a metal blank over the third starter bolt hole. (see image)

After grinding a little off of the crossmember to get the right clearance from the mounting position to the frame, it fit pretty well.

Upgrade My 7.3 Powerstroke Starter

Looking to crank your engine over no matter what, this starter isn’t fooling around! You can get one for your 7.3 Powerstroke by clicking the image or the button below.

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Removal

I guess I could list out all the 7.3 starter removal steps… But once again, FordTechMakuloco on YouTube does an excellent job of detailing how to remove your 7.3 starter. Enjoy…

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Part Number

7.3 Denso Starter Part Number – 228000-8420, TG228000-8420

7.3 OEM Part Number – PP17802N

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Upgrade Part Number (DB Electric) – SND0355

If the 7.3 starter above isn’t to your liking, or if you just prefer shopping on eBay, this 7.3 Powerstroke high torque starter below is a great option. It’s Denso-designed and delivers a whopping 5.5HP. As long as your batteries are good, you shouldn’t have any trouble cranking your diesel engine over … even in bitter cold winter weather.

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Bolt Size

10mmx1.50x35mm

Whichever one you choose, both of the above 7.3 starters take 2 bolts instead of the stock starter’s 3—the third hole’s blanked on these starters. If you find one you like with the third bolt, be advised, that third bolt is a bear to get installed. Use a socket extension and have some knuckle bandages ready…

7.3 Starter Bolt Torque Spec

17-21 lb/ft, 22-28 Nm

7.3 Powerstroke Starter Upgrade Summary

There it is, pretty much everything you need to know about upgrading/replacing your 7.3 Powerstroke’s stock starter with a high torque one that’ll crank your big diesel engine over … hard.

I'm Steve. I've owned over a dozen diesel pickup trucks in my life and always worked on them myself. I'm the owner of Dead Head Diesel. I live in California. You know, the diesel "friendly" state.

Recent Posts

5 Best Starters for a 7.3 Powerstroke

Ford's stock starter may not be the best starter for 7.3 Powerstroke diesel pickups. Here are the five best 7.3 starter replacements to fit any budget.

6.4 Powerstroke Oil Change and Capacity Secrets

6.4 Powerstroke oil capacity is huge by "normal" gas truck standards. Get 6.4 Powerstroke oil change and capacity, type, and interval numbers you'll need to change it yourself.

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2001 Ford Excursion

2001 Ford Excursion - Starter

• Ultima Select

New Or Remanufactured

• Remanufactured

kW Rating (kW)

• Gear Reduction
• Offset Gear Reduction
• Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction
• Planetary Gear Reduction

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• Battery Cable
• Battery Cables & Accessories
• Dielectric Grease
• Ground Strap
• Hand Cleaners
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• Starter Relay
• Starter Solenoid

Ultima Select Starter - New

Ultima starter - remanufactured, wilson starter - new, wilson starter - remanufactured, motorcraft starter - remanufactured, motorcraft starter, what is a starter for cars.

The starter on your car is an electric motor with a gear that engages the flywheel or flexplate to turn your engine over and build compression to start the vehicle. Starters include a geared shaft, often called a Bendix, which extends during startup to engage the starter gear with the flexplate or flywheel, and retracts once the engine has started. Many starter motors also have a built-in solenoid that sends voltage to the starter when the key is turned, but some older vehicles may instead have a remote-mounted starter solenoid that can be replaced separately. The starter or starter solenoid on your vehicle may wear out over time due to heat, oil contamination from a leak, or just regular damage experienced over a lifetime of use. If you hear clicking but your engine won't turn over, it could point to a weak starter motor, or your battery may be dead. If you can hear the starter spinning but it fails to turn over the engine, the Bendix shaft may not be engaging or extending far enough to contact the flexplate. In either case, the starter may need to be replaced to restore your starting performance. O'Reilly Auto Parts offers free starter testing on or off the vehicle, and performing this test can help you narrow down the issue to determine if your starter is the source of the problem. If you need a car battery, starter motor, solenoid, alternator, or other starting and charging system parts, O'Reilly Auto Parts carries the right parts to help you make a lasting repair and keep you on the road.

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• F-250 & F-350 1986-1997 & Other Ford Trucks
• 1994-1997 OBS Power Stroke Aftermarket Performance

7.3 Super Duty Starter installed

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Hmmm thats good to know.  

Billy whats the cost on the new starter  

And you get a extra bolt out of the deal  

6mm flange nut works for the terminal.  

gnxtc2 said: The original starter went out on my truck. Soooo.....I paid a visit to my buddy at the Motorcraft supply house and picked up a brand new 7.3 Super Duty starter, part number SA-903. It was a straight forward swap except for the following: - The ring terminal on the small wire needs to be reamed slightly - A new nut/washer is needed for the small terminal stud. Don't know the size. Now the motor turns over with authority and sounds like a SD starting. I looked at the DB starter but I was not a fan of a Chinese knock-off of a Denso starter. Sorry but I don't buy Chinese knock off products. Billy T. [email protected] Click to expand...

Make sure you check the starter bolts once in a while.....just replaced the SD Starter on mine with a spare SD one and the lower bolt was finger tight!! Read in SD section above iirc and this is common for them to come loose. Love the instant fire up... jrc  

Blue LocTite?  

What does swapping out the OBS starter for a SD starter do?  

I suppose the sd starter was improved from the time that the psd was 'put' into the F series trucks. The nice thing about the superduty is you can take the top bolt out with a 2' extension and universal joint run through the hole in the pass side framerail and then the other bolt(s) are easily reached. It makes what could be an hour+ job into a thirteen minute job. The joys of doing something a couple times.  

Interesting. What year did they start using the SA-903 starter? I'm curious to know, since I have a '00 SD and it has the same starter as my OBS.  

01 to 03 7.3L  

NAPA has new gear reduction SD starters for 200.00 Part number.. 4N-9296 I did this a month back and it works awesome...  

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My truck had the SA-903 stock and its a 2000. IT lasted for 245k miles too....Then I changed it out and had to change the replacement out three weeks later...damn leaky windshield..  

FYI DB starter has been great to me so far.  

I'd really like to know where your Motorcraft starter was made. DB Electrical site says: "This Denso style higher torque 2 mounting hole unit is used to replace the original Mitsubishi starters with 3 mounting holes." So is the Motorcraft a Mitsu unit? Also, when I did my DB high torque, I had to bend the ring terminal 90° and it snapped off. Do you not have to do this with the Motorcraft?  

"FoMoCo" is the only thing cast on the starter. I looked for any other marking with negative results. When I crank over the motor, it spins real fast. I did not have to bend any terminal, just ream out the small ring terminal. Billy T. [email protected]  

I havent tried the db starter because when Ive needed one I, well, needed it then. The mitsu starters are beasts when they are new and I think they are the best replacement out there. If you get the 'good' one. There are two mitsu's that I know of.  

I am almost 90% sure the "NEW MC Starter" is not USA Made...I need to check my sources... This was the same deal on the MC Brand VAC Pumps...that was in the end, sourced from Romania...lol  

is it the same part number for man and auto trans  

I'm sure the starters are the same for manual or auto 94-03, other than the later SD got the gear reduction from the factory. I went with the Powermaster 9051 gear reduction starter in my '95. It can be bought for about 240-245. Just another option if your local Ford dealer wants a little too much for the gear reduction starter.  

OBS starters are gear reduction as well. If you were to take one apart, there is a planetary gearset between the motor and the output gear.  

My mistake, after doing some looking you're certainly right. I had not taken a Power Stroke starter apart. It is just easier to tell by looking that there is a gear reduction with the offset design as opposed to a straight through planetary style.  

So the SD starter is a direct bolt up, just need to change the cable end to fit a bigger stud?  

Depending on what year your truck is... This is not true for all. My truck is a 94.5 and I cannot use the same starter as most of you other OBS buys. I got a shorter nose where the teeth are past the flange so it doesnt even fit past the flywheel. Those of you that have a 94.5 be careful as you are stuck with the same starter you have and are not lucky like everyone else lol  

Yes, direct bolt up. You need to pick up a nut for the small wire terminal stud. The size was posted in a previous post. The big cable just bolts on. The ring terminal on the small wire needs to be reamed slightly, no need to change it. Billy T. [email protected]  

awesome thats simple enough!! Now its time to find a starter for cheaper than Ford sells them haha  

just installed an 02 SD starter in my 95 OBS from O'Reilly $189 works great couldnt be happier.:ford:  

are the starters from the parts stores( andvane, orilleys etc) still gear reduction for the 01-03?  

If you purchase the correct one they are. They are easily identifiable by the solenoid on the starter being offset to one side instead of mounted at the 12 o'clock position.  

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