half day tours from reykjavik

15 Amazing Half Day Tours From Reykjavik, Iceland (+ Info & Tips)

By Author Jurga

Posted on Last updated: January 23, 2024

Visiting Reykjavik and looking for some great ways to see more of Iceland in a limited time? You came to the right place! In this guide, we are featuring the best half day tours from Reykjavik that are well worth your time.

Many people visiting Iceland for the first time, opt to just stay in Reykjavik, especially if they only have a day or two in the country. So we often get questions from our readers about how to spend half a day in the city and what are the best half day tours to take from Reykjavik . Thus this selection of the best excursions and short tours from Reykjavik.

Before we continue with the best half day tours from Reykjavik, you should know that most of the half-day tours in Iceland take at least 6 hours. Most of the tours start in the morning, but there are quite a lot of afternoon and evening tours in Reykjavik as well. I indicated as much information and options as possible so that you can always find a good short tour in Iceland that fits your schedule. Find out!

Good to know. We recommend booking your tours in Reykjavik via GetYourGuide – one of the world’s leading tour booking companies. They have the best customer service and free cancelation up to 24 hours before the tour – something you won’t find when booking with small tour companies directly. Plus, if a tour gets canceled due to the ever-changing Icelandic weather, you are sure to get a refund.

YOU MAY ALSO LIKE: Best things to do in Reykjavik

Best half day tours from Reykjavik – overview:

Golden circle, reykjanes peninsula.

• Lava tunnels

Northern Lights

Blue lagoon, secret lagoon, reykjavik city highlights, icelandic food tasting in reykjavik, whale watching.

• Puffin watching
• Silfra Fissure Snorkeling
• Helicopter tours

Icelandic horse riding

Sea fishing.

• Other suggestions

TIP:  While usually a bit longer than half a day, one of the popular tours near Reykjavik is  hiking to recently-erupted volcanos!  There have been quite a few volcano eruptions in the last few years and you can now see the eruption sites. You can hike there on your own, but it’s safer and easier to go on a tour. There are various tours , most include a pick-up in Reykjavik.

These are the very best (half) day tours from Reykjavik:

The most popular tour from Reykjavik is visiting the famous Golden Circle. Since it’s not too far from the city, it is possible to see the main highlights in just half a day, and therefore several companies offer Golden Circle afternoon tours from Reykjavik.

Golden Circle refers to three main landmarks:  Thingvellir National Park ,  Geysir geothermal area , and  Gullfoss waterfall . Full-day Golden Circle tours usually include several more stops, whereas half-day tours just concentrate on these three main landmarks.

The definition of a ‘half day tour’ is interpreted quite differently by the companies that run these tours. For example, the most popular Golden Circle afternoon tour starts at 10.30 AM and lasts 8 hours. There is a very similar tour that starts at noon and lasts 7.5 hours.

TIP: If your time in Reykjavik is really limited, I suggest you check this Golden Circle Express tour with pick-up . It’s by far the most flexible Golden Circle tour you can find, with varying departure times that you can choose . For example, in the summer months, you have six possible departure times every day: the first one is at 8.30 AM and the last one at 6 PM (it hardly gets dark in Iceland that time of the year). But also in other seasons, they offer the most flexible departure times from Reykjavik. This tour takes just 6,5 hours in total and covers all the musts.

In the past usually overlooked by most visitors to Iceland, Reykjanes Peninsula is quickly becoming a popular area to see near Reykjavik. It’s well worth a visit. Located close to Keflavik airport, Reykjanes Peninsula makes a good half day tour from Reykjavik, but also a potential stopover tour in Iceland.

With dramatic coastal landscapes, geothermal features, lighthouses, and local villages, the Reykjanes Peninsula is a perfect introduction to Iceland. If you are looking for a more local experience, a place that’s not yet overrun by tourists, then this area is an excellent choice for a half day tour from Reykjavik.

Here you can find Reykjanes Peninsula tours , but note that some of them do not start in Reykjavik. The most popular Reykjanes Peninsula half day tours from Reykjavik start at 10 AM and last 6 hours. At the moment, pretty much every tour to Reykjanes includes a visit to the active volcano.

Lava Tunnels

Iceland is a country of volcanos and so lava is all around you. However, visiting a lava tunnel is a very unique experience and definitely something to consider if you are looking for a nice way to spend half a day in Reykjavik.

Raufarhólshellir Lava Tunnel is located just half an hour drive from Reykjavik and makes a great half day trip in Iceland. Here you can find the most popular Raufarhólshellir Lava Tunnel tour from Reykjavik . It starts in the morning and takes about 3 hours. This tour is easy and suitable for most people.

If you have a car, you can easily drive to the Raufarhólshellir Lava Tunnel on your own (it’s a 40-minute drive). In that case, be sure to book your tickets in advance . That way, you can be sure you got a spot reserved for a tour when you arrive (you’ll always have to join a guided tour in order to enter the cave).

Leiðarendi Lava Tube is another popular option, also about the same distance from the city. This small group lava tube tour starts very early in the morning and also takes 3 hours. keep in mind that this option is more adventurous and involves some crawling…

If you are visiting Reykjavik from mid-September to mid-April, one of the best evening tours is to go hunting for the Northern Lights . While there is a chance to see auroras in Reykjavik, light pollution minimizes your chances. Not to mention that it’s a completely different experience to see them surrounded by beautiful landscapes…

Another reason to book a Northern Lights tour is that you need a cloudless sky in order to see auroras. The tours check the weather forecast and radar information and always pick a location where they know the chances of seeing the Northern Lights are biggest for that specific night.

There are many Northern Lights tours from Reykjavik , but to save you time, I picked the very best ones:

• Northern Lights Hunt from Reykjavik by Minibus . This is a small-group tour and one of the best-rated of all aurora tours in Iceland.
• Northern Lights Bus Tour . This is a big bus tour with the best customer reviews.
• Northern Lights Tour by Boat .

READ ALSO: FAQ & Tips for Northern Lights in Iceland

The Blue Lagoon is Iceland’s most popular tourist attraction and a good half-day trip from Reykjavik. If you haven’t heard of it yet, it’s basically a huge geothermal pool with a distinctive blue or milky blue color (the color depends on the light, etc.).

You can easily visit the Blue Lagoon as a half-day tour from Reykjavik on your own or as part of an organized tour in combination with e.g. Golden Circle.

If you go on your own, you’ll need to book your Blue Lagoon tickets in advance because they limit the number of visitors and sell out all the time. You can then book your Blue Lagoon bus transfer from Reykjavik . It takes about an hour to get there and you will probably spend at least 2 hours in the water, so count at least 4 hours for this half-day trip from Reykjavik.

TIP: If you don’t have a car, simply book this bundle ticket with Blue Lagoon tickets and transfers from Reykjavik included.

You can also visit the Blue Lagoon on your way to or from the airport. Bus transfers are available for Keflavik airport as well (use the same link as for Reykjavik transfers).

TIP: Recently, a new geothermal pool was opened just near Reykjavik. It’s called Sky Lagoon and is absolutely amazing (+ the views are incredible!). It’s much quieter than the Blue Lagoon and much closer to the city – ideal if you have just a few hours. You can get your tickets here and you can also get a ticket with a bus transfer included . If you have half a day to spare in Reykjavik, definitely check it out!

Secret Lagoon is another geothermal swimming pool, about 1,5 hrs drive from Reykjavik. It’s a much more low key and authentic experience in nature than the Blue Lagoon. You really can’t compare them. The good news is that visiting the Secret Lagoon costs just a fraction of the Blue Lagoon.

Most people visit Secret Lagoon in combination with the Golden Circle as a full day tour from Reykjavik. If, however, your time is limited and you are looking for a short half day excursion from Reykjavik, then it’s definitely something to consider.

Here you can book Secret Lagoon entrance tickets with bus transfers from Reykjavik . At the moment of writing, this excursion starts at 1 PM and takes about 5 hours.

When researching half day tours from Reykjavik, you shouldn’t forget that there are quite some nice and interesting ways to explore Reykjavik town itself . Further below you can find our suggestions for Reykjavik food tours. But first – a few suggestions for short city tours in Reykjavik. These are perfect if your time in Reykjavik is really limited. Find out!

Reykjavik isn’t a big town and you don’t need more than half a day to see the main highlights. You could easily do it on your own, but if you have no time to do any research and want to learn more about Reykjavik, I strongly suggest that you join a guided walking tour with a local.

Below you can find my hand-picked selection of three popular Reykjavik city tours:

• Reykjavik City Walking Tour . This tour focuses on the highlights of Reykjavik and covers all the ‘musts’. This 3-hour tour has one drawback – it only runs once a day, in the afternoon, so it might not always fit your itinerary if you only have half a day in Reykjavik.
• Walk with a Viking – Your Introduction to Reykjavik . This 2-hour city tour has great reviews and three possible starting times during the day, allowing you to find a tour that best suits your itinerary.
• Reykjavik: Elves & Trolls of Iceland Walking Tour . This tour is perfect for those who are looking to learn more about Icelandic mythology and see something unique in Reykjavik. It goes a bit more off the beaten track and will not bring you to the typical tourist attractions.

TIP: If you have a couple of hours to fill in Reykjavik, you may want to check out Perlan – Wonders of Iceland . It’s a sort of interactive museum where you can experience Iceland’s natural wonders all in one place. You can see auroras and even walk in an ice tunnel! There is also a planetarium, a café, and an observation deck. You can book your ticket here ; it includes a free shuttle from Harpan Music Hall in Reykjavik downtown.

READ ALSO: How to See the Best of Reykjavik in One Day

One of the most authentic ways to discover any country or city is through its food and drinks. Reykjavik in Iceland is no exception. There are serval popular food and beer tours in Reykjavik that only require a few hours of your time. It’s a great way to see the city and taste some Icelandic specialties.

If you are interested in Icelandic food, check this highly rated half- day food tasting tour in Reykjavik . It runs several times a day and takes 4 hours.

If you are looking for an evening tour in Reykjavik and are over 20 years old, consider one of the popular Icelandic beer tours .

Some of the most popular short tours from Reykjavik are whale watching tours . The best season to see whales in Iceland is from April to September. However, there is always a chance to see whales in other seasons as well, so most tours run the whole year round. I would consider taking a whale watching tour in between March and October, but probably not in winter. Daylight hours are so scarce in Iceland in winter and there are better ways to use them than going on a tour in freezing cold and with little chance to see whales.

Anyway, if you are in Reykjavik in the warmer months, definitely consider whale watching. After all, Iceland is one of the best places in the world to see them.

Most whale-watching tours from Reykjavik take 3-4 hours, but there are also express tours that take just 2 hours. Also, there are whale watching tours that run at any given time of the day, so whale watching is a perfect choice for a half day trip from Reykjavik.

There are many whale watching tours available, so I dug deeper to find out which ones are the best. Here are the best whale watching tours from Reykjavik:

• This highly-rated whale watching tour from Reykjavik is the most popular option. The reason behind it is probably the fact that if you don’t see any whales the first time, they offer you a second trip for free. They also run several tours a day, so it’s easy to find one that fits your schedule.
• This RIB whale watching express tour is a great option for those who want to get really close to the whales. We absolutely love RIB tours! (also because we never get seasick on these fast boats).
• This highly-rated luxury yacht whale watching tour is another popular option. This tour runs twice a day and is one of a few that offer hotel pick-up (at an extra fee). If you want to travel in style, this tour is for you!
• If you are looking for an evening tour from Reykjavik, then take a look at this midnight sun whale watching tour .

Puffin watching tours

If you are visiting Reykjavik in the summer, you might be lucky enough to see puffins . There are several places where puffins nest not too far from Reykjavik, and so there are several boat tours available.

Most puffin-watching tours only last a few hours, and often you have the chance to see whales as well.

This most popular puffin watching boat tour from Reykjavik takes just one hour and runs multiple times during the day. It’s also one of the cheapest puffin tours from Reykjavik. This speedboat puffin tour also takes an hour and runs many times during the day, but since the boat is faster, you have more time for actual puffin watching.

If you have at least 5 hours and don’t mind paying more, then you could consider a half-day whales and puffins combo tour .

Silfra Fissure snorkeling

Silfra Fissure snorkeling is a truly unique adventure that you can only find in Iceland. You can snorkel in the crystal clear waters of Silfra lava fissure between the American and European continents at Thingvellir Lake, just an hour drive from Reykjavik.

If you are looking for something truly special to do in Iceland, this is a great half day trip from Reykjavik for any season.

One of the best-rated Silfra lava fissure snorkeling tours offers a pick-up from Reykjavik, with several departures during the day. These tours run year-round and take about 5 hours with driving time from Reykjavik included.

There are more Silfra snorkeling tours (you can find the entire selection here ), but the one I linked to above is one of the best options as a half day trip from Reykjavik. And don’t worry, all snorkeling gear is included in the package.

Helicopter tour

One of the most amazing things you can do in Iceland is take a helicopter tour. Icelandic highlands are incredibly beautiful and for the most part completely inaccessible. Seeing it from the air is a once-in-a-lifetime experience!

The good news is that you can easily take a short helicopter tour from Reykjavik. So if you are looking for the most memorable way to spend your time in Iceland, this might be it. Most helicopter flights take 40 to 75 minutes and usually starting times are flexible, so it’s a great short excursion that you can do in Reykjavik.

There are several possibilities when it comes to helicopter tours from Reykjavik. Here are some of the best options:

• 1-Hour Geothermal Helicopter Tour . This is one of the best price-quality helicopter tours in Reykjavik. It not only tours above the city but also above some amazing landscapes nearby. It includes one landing in a spectacular spot.
• Panoramic Helicopter Flight above Reykjavik . This is one of the shortest helicopter tours and mostly focuses on Reykjavik and its surroundings. Great price/quality and loving reviews.

If you are looking for a more adventurous yet typically Icelandic half day tour from Reykjavik, you should check the Icelandic horse riding tours . And don’t worry – these tours are meant for tourists, so all the riding gear is provided and, usually, you don’t need any previous experience.

By far the most popular half day tour is this Icelandic Horse Riding Tour in Lava Fields . It runs twice a day and is perfect for anyone who wants to see some beautiful Icelandic landscapes and get acquainted with the Icelandic horses. Horse riding itself takes 2 hours, count 4 hours if you book it with pick-up and drop-off in Reykjavik.

Another nice option for a morning or afternoon tour from Reykjavik is to go fishing . There are just a few companies running sea fishing tours from Reykjavik and they usually take 2,5-3 hours. Fishing tours usually run only in the summer months.

This is the best-rated sea fishing tour in Reykjavik. It starts at around 5 PM and takes about 2.5 hours.

More half day tours from Reykjavik

The tours listed above are the best, most popular half day tours from Reykjavik or in the city itself. However, if you are looking for even more ideas, here are a few other options for half day excursions from Reykjavik .

Please note that the mentioned duration might not include transfer time from Reykjavik, but all of these tours shouldn’t take longer than 5-6 hours.

• Quad and ATV Reykjavik Peaks Half-Day Tour .
• Midnight Sun ATV Tour .
• Lava Fields Buggy Adventure .

So, this is our selection of the very best short excursions and half day tours from Reykjavik and in the city itself. Now you know that there is a lot to see and do even if you just have half a day in Reykjavik. The choice is yours. Have a great time in Iceland!

TIP: If you have more time in Reykjavik and are looking for day tours, here you can find our selection with the best winter day trips from Reykjavik and the best Iceland day tours and excursions for all seasons.

READ ALSO: Iceland South Coast Attractions – Must Visit!

More tips for your trip to Iceland:

• Good to know: Iceland Travel Tips
• What to see: Best Places to See in Iceland
• Airport transfers:  Reykjavik airport transfers
• Where to stay: Best Places to Stay in Iceland
• Budget:  How Expensive is Iceland (& How to Save Money)
• Packing:  What to Wear in Iceland in Winter  and  What to Pack for Iceland in Summer
• Itinerary:  Iceland Itinerary Suggestions for 1 to 14 Days
• Ring Road : Best Itinerary for Iceland’s Ring Road in 10 Days
• South Coast:  4 Days in Iceland
• South & West Iceland: One Week Iceland Road Trip Itinerary
• Winter trip: Best Winter Experiences in Iceland & Travel Tips for Iceland in Winter
• Auroras:  How to See and Photograph the Northern Lights
• More:  Check our  Iceland travel guide  for even more inspiration and tips

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Don't miss the opportunity to take a mysterious night trip to witness the famous Northern Lights, one of nature's most spectacular displays.Join us on a guided tour that takes you ...

The Northern Lights tourfrom Reykjavktakes you to see a spectacular natural phenomenon which happens during the winter months.The Northern Lights, also known as Aurora Borealis, ar...

Enjoy the fishing adventure of a lifetime in Reykjavik! Go fishing on a comfortable boat with experienced guides who will tell you all about angling in Iceland. Fishing rods, prote...

Escape the reach of tour buses and seek the celestial green glow of the northern lights on a 4-hour Iceland tour in the comfort of a super jeep, a spacious SUV thats designed to tr...

Chase the Aurora Borealis, also known as the Northern Lights, and watch them dance above you on this 3-4 hour private tour from Reykjavik. The Northern lights are often visible dur...

A 6-hour day-trip to the scenic peninsula of Reykjanes to satisfy any photographer, wildlife observer, urban or rural explorer, and casual tourist looking for a fresh take on Icela...

Leave behind Reykjavk and journey to Raufarhlshellir Lava Tunnel, just 30 minutes away. Walk through the lava's path and learn about the tunnel's history. The lava tunnel is one of...

Explore Iceland's popular Golden Circle on this this 6-hour tour from Reykjavik. Set out to see the Golden Circle and the Geysir geothermal area. This is one of Iceland's most brea...

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This is the tour where you get to know all about the eruption of Iceland's Volcanoes. Step into a luxury 4X4 and in just half an hour fromReykjavik you can be out in the volcanoes ...

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Northern Lights HuntWe pick you up and whisk you away from the city lights to where we predict the best sightings according to the cloud forecast. Our small tour group allows us to...

This Tour.is a unique blend of a guided history tour through Reykjavk with an introduction into traditional local cuisine and locally brewed craft beers. We make 5 foodie stops to ...

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The tour takes approximately 6 hours. We spend 3 hours at the Blue Lagoon.See the sites of Reykjavk and enjoy the amazing Blue Lagoonspa

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Your transfer to the Blue lagoon begins from your accommodation pace; you will be picked up in a in a brand new Mercedes Benz V-class luxury minivan and driven along the Reykjanes ...

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About reykjavik Half-day Tours

Want to tour the city, hop on the Reykjavik tours. What makes these Half-day tours in Reykjavik more interesting are the helpful guides, who walk you through the details of the place adding value to your visit.

For giving you a taste of the local cuisine, some of the Half-day tours also offer a meal- perhaps a lunch or a dinner depending upon the timing of the tour. Half-day tours enable you to visit Gullfoss Waterfall, Hallgrimskirkja, Arbaejarsafn, The Pearl, Harpa Conference And Concert Center, which are some of the recommended things to do in Reykjavik .

Half-day tours are available at various time slots and you can book the one that suits your schedule. To make your journey easier, most of these tours will pick you up either from the hotel or a decided point and will drop you to the starting point of the tour.

Half-day tours are crafted to suit all travel plans are hence are available in multiple options like small group tours and private tours. You can expect professional services along with added comfort

While you are looking for Half-day tours, you can also check out related categories like biking & segway tours , night tours . Here's a list of the best Reykjavik Half-day tours.

Book Half-day tours with TripHobo and get a discount! Build your Reykjavik Vacation Packages today! Make it flawless, for consolidating your travel information, use Reykjavik trip planner to create your plan.

Home » Travel Guides » Iceland » 15 Best Reykjavik Tours

15 Best Reykjavik Tours

Reykjavik is the largest city and capital of Iceland, and it’s the perfect destination to delve into everything that this Nordic nation has to offer. The city is the country’s transport hub, and these days it’s incredibly well connected, meaning you can use the city as a base for exploring the rest of the country or simply stop over for a few days on a layover between Europe and North America.

The city is surrounded by exceptional scenery that is just a short drive away from the centre, and tours are available that will quickly whisk you away to stunning waterfalls and otherworldly landscapes. The city itself is wonderful too, and being the cultural centre of the Icelandic nation, there are excellent galleries and national museums to explore during your stay.

Enjoy relaxing spas in natural thermal waters, learn about Iceland’s settlement from Europe or head out onto the icy waters of the Atlantic Ocean in search of whales and puffins.

There are some great tours to take in Reykjavik, and here are the best of them.

1. Reykjavik City Card

Reykjavik has a huge array of attractions, including some wonderful museums and galleries that do an amazing job of explaining and displaying hundreds of years of Icelandic history and culture to visitors with an interest in knowing more.

When you arrive in the city, purchase a Reykjavik City Card to allow you to tour around the best sights at your leisure. The City Card gives you access to not only the best museums but also to the city’s many public thermal swimming pools, so you can enjoy the spa culture the local way, and without too many other tourists.

2. Reykjavik City Walking Tour

This three-hour walking tour takes you through the best that the city has to offer, and lets you enjoy the great Icelandic fresh air on the way. Reykjavik is a fairly compact city, so walking is a wonderful way to see all the sights while your tour guide imparts their local wisdom and knowledge on the group.

You’ll be taken to the top of the iconic Hallgrímskirkja Church, learn about local legends and history and visit such sights as the City Hall, Concert Hall and the harbour.

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3. Reykjavik City Sightseeing by Minibus

If walking isn’t your thing, then never fear, because the Reykjavik City Sightseeing tour is here to take you around the city’s best sights in the comfort of a modern minibus.

Not only will you see the famous city centre attractions, such as the Hallgrímskirkja Church and City Hall, but you’ll head further out to the surrounding areas too, to see the Presidential Palace at Bessastaðir and the unique local town of Hafnarfjörður.

You even get to end a long day of sightseeing with a relaxing bath at a thermal swimming pool.

4. Reykjavik Hop on Hop off Tour: 24 Hour Ticket

With the Reykjavik Hop on Hop off bus ticket, you can tour around the Icelandic capital at your leisure, within a 24-hour period.

It’s perfect for those travellers on a short layover or who are just passing through before heading elsewhere in the country, because alongside detailed audio guides, the bus has a multitude of stops that encompass the best sights in the city, including churches, museums and much, much more.

5. Reykjavik: Panoramic Helicopter Flight with Summit Landing

This adventurous tour will take you into the skies above Reykjavik for a breathtaking aerial view of the Icelandic capital that few get to see.

From dizzying heights, you will see the city laid out far below you, while your expert pilot narrates and points out the famous sights you are flying over.

You’ll soon be outside the city, and the helicopter will land on a nearby mountaintop summit for a unique experience, and for even more outstanding panoramic views of Reykjavik.

6. Reykjavik: Myths and Monsters of Iceland Walking Tour

This unusual walking tour will give an entirely new perspective on Icelandic history and culture as you explore the city while learning about the country’s fascination with myths and legends.

Learn about troublesome local elves from centuries-old folklore, dangerous mythical trolls and more, in this compelling tour of Reykjavik.

7. Reykjavik Food, Drink and Museum Walking Tour

Led by a food and beer-loving local, this fantastic walking tour takes you not only through Reykjavik’s iconic sights and marvellous museums, but it also stops off at the best craft breweries and restaurants for a selection of tastings that will allow you to experience Icelandic cuisine.

You’ll enjoy street food and bizarre local recipes, and then top it all off with a two-course meal in a top-quality restaurant.

8. Two Hour Northern Lights Cruise From Reykjavik

If you are looking to see the spectacle that is the Northern Lights, then you’ve certainly come to the right place. Although it can be difficult to see them in the city centre due to light pollution, this tour will take you onto the water for a two-hour cruise into the darkness.

You’ll watch the lights of the city slowly fade behind you, before hunting down this vibrant natural light show along the coast.

9. Reykjavik: Whales of Iceland Exhibition

Whales have long played an important role in Icelandic society, and at the excellent Whales of Iceland Exhibition at the Reykjavik Harbour, you can find out more about the relationship between man and animal.

The exhibition has life-size models of the most abundant species that are found in the waters of Iceland, giving you an entirely new perspective on their enormous size and scale in comparison to humans. You’ll learn about their ecosystems, habits and the threat they are under across the world.

10. Whale Watching Tour From Reykjavik

Just off the coast of Reykjavik can be found a spectacular array of different whale species, from Orcas to Humpbacks, and they are just a short journey away from the city’s harbour.

After learning about these fascinating creatures at the Whale Exhibition, see them in real life on this three-hour boat tour led by experienced whale watching captains. The best part is, if you don’t actually see a whale, you’ll get to go out again completely free of charge.

11. Small Group Puffin Watching RIB Cruise From Reykjavik

Iceland isn’t just a great place for whale watching, though. Wildlife lovers will love the fact that the country is home to huge populations of friendly puffins.

These little critters can be found just a short boat ride away from Reykjavik, and this tour takes you out to Faxaflói Bay to see these beautiful birds nesting on the rocks and under the dramatic cliffs that are found here.

12. Reykjavik: Half Day Food Tasting Tour

Food and culture lovers won’t want to miss out on this exceptional culinary tour of Reykjavik when they are visiting the city.

This walking tour takes you through the capital’s most unique cafes, restaurants and local shops, as you are given the opportunity to try dozens of different dishes and specialities across the capital.

You’ll sample meats and cheeses from across the country, indulge in delicious Icelandic Skyr and of course, finish off with one of the city’s famous hot dogs from the busiest street food stall in Reykjavik.

13. Iceland: Beer Tasting and Tapas-Style Local Cuisine Tour

This beer and food tour takes you to Reykjavik’s Old Harbour, where at the Bryggjan Brugghús Restaurant you’ll be treated to a delightful tasting menu of craft beers and local delicacies.

While you eat, your hosts will regale you with stories and legends from Icelandic history, making this not just a meal out, but a cultural immersion too.

14. Iceland Secret Lagoon

Forget the bustling Blue Lagoon, the Secret Lagoon is the place to visit these days when you are in Reykjavik. Just an hour away from the capital, this thermal swimming pool is found in the great outdoors, surrounded by rural scenery.

At night, it’s a wonderful place to relax in hot water while you watch the bright stars or scan the sky for the glimmers of the Northern Lights. It’s an unusual experience, especially in winter, but it’s a local tradition and cultural practice that Icelanders have indulged in for centuries.

15. Reykjavik: 2 Hour Imagine Peace Tower Tour

Just off the shores of Reykjavik can be found Viðey Island, where Icelanders have erected a lasting monument to peace, dedicated to Yoko Ono and John Lennon.

The Peace Tower lights up the dark sky during the cold months of winter, and this tour will take you across to the island to show you firsthand the motives behind this grand and noble art installation. It’s a unique trip and a great tour to take while visiting Reykjavik.

15 Best Reykjavik Tours:

• Reykjavik City Card
• Reykjavik City Walking Tour
• Reykjavik City Sightseeing by Minibus
• Reykjavik Hop on Hop off Tour: 24 Hour Ticket
• Reykjavik: Panoramic Helicopter Flight with Summit Landing
• Reykjavik: Myths and Monsters of Iceland Walking Tour
• Reykjavik Food, Drink and Museum Walking Tour
• Two Hour Northern Lights Cruise From Reykjavik
• Reykjavik: Whales of Iceland Exhibition
• Whale Watching Tour From Reykjavik
• Small Group Puffin Watching RIB Cruise From Reykjavik
• Reykjavik: Half Day Food Tasting Tour
• Iceland: Beer Tasting and Tapas-Style Local Cuisine Tour
• Iceland Secret Lagoon
• Reykjavik: 2 Hour Imagine Peace Tower Tour

Relaxing Half-Day Hot Spring Soaking Tour at Hvammsvik from Reykjavik

Description

Discover the tranquil beauty of Hvammsvik hot spring with this half-day tour, leaving the bustling city behind to bask in the natural wonders and relaxation of Iceland. Secure your spot for a brief yet unforgettable Icelandic retreat! This tour is tailored for those searching for a quick yet immersive experience of Iceland's natural charm.

Your journey begins with a comfortable transfer from Reykjavik, allowing you to sit back and revel in the scenic beauty as you depart from the bustling city. 

In about an hour, you'll find yourself at the tranquil Hvammsvik, a place renowned for its secluded natural hot springs. Savor the warm, mineral-rich waters, and you'll feel your worries and cares melt away.  The geothermal waters are famed for their therapeutic properties, ensuring complete relaxation.

Surrounded by the stunning Icelandic landscape, you'll find peace and tranquility in this hidden gem.

Hvammsvik boasts eight natural hot springs, each with its own unique charm. The landscape is breathtaking, providing you with the perfect backdrop to unwind and reconnect with nature. 

As you soak in the hot springs, you'll appreciate Iceland's untouched beauty. In addition to the hot springs, a steam room is available for those looking to further indulge in relaxation.

After a day of pure bliss, your guide will ensure your journey back to Reykjavik is as comfortable as your arrival, ensuring you return feeling refreshed and rejuvenated.

Don't miss the opportunity to experience Hvammsvik Hot Spring, recently named the ''Number one best thing to do in the world 2023'' by Time Out Magazine. 

This hot spring is an experience not to be missed. The tour operates at two different times, starting mid-morning or late afternoon, and you can choose the one that best suits your schedule. The morning tour returns from Hvammsvik in the early afternoon, while the later tour returns in the evening.

The convenient transfer to and from Hvammsvik is included in the tour, ensuring a hassle-free experience. Your admission to Hvammsvik Hot Springs is also covered, granting you access to the soothing hot springs. Remember to bring swimwear and a towel (although rentals are available on-site) to make the most of your time at this enchanting natural retreat.

Don't miss this opportunity to escape the city, relax in natural hot springs, and be surrounded by Iceland's stunning landscape. The Hvammsvik hot springs promises a rejuvenating experience that will leave you feeling revitalized. Check availability now by choosing a date. 

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The Golden Circle

Golden circle iceland, geysir, gullfoss and thingvellir.

The Golden Circle is by far Iceland's most famous attraction. A short drive from the capital city, you see the most stunning sights at Thingvellir National Park, Geysir geothermal area, and Gullfoss waterfall - all in one day!

Reykjavik Excursions offers a great selection of Golden Circle tours with extra options to please every traveller, such as a visit to Friðheimar greenhouse, a snowmobile ride on Langjökull glacier, horseback riding, a relaxing visit to Fontana Geothermal Spa, and much more. Find your Golden Circle tour from the list below.

GOLDEN CIRCLE

Golden Circle Direct

The Golden Circle & Friðheimar Greenhouse

SNOWMOBILING

Golden Circle & Glacier Snowmobiling

COMBO OFFERS

Golden Circle & Northern Lights

Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness

Golden Circle & Lava Tunnel

SUPER JEEP TOURS

Golden Circle and Glacier Super Jeep Tour

Golden Circle Super Jeep & Snowmobiling

Golden Circle & Sky Lagoon

Golden Circle & ATV Adventure

Golden Circle & Horse Riding

Golden Circle & Buggy Adventure

Golden Circle & City Sightseeing - Hop On Hop Off

SNORKELING & DIVING

Thingvellir National Park & Silfra Transfer

MULTI-DAY TOURS

3 Day - Golden Circle, South Coast, Ice Cave & Jökulsárlón

6 Days Around Iceland Adventure

• Adventure Tours
• Culture & Traditions Tours
• Food & Drink Tours
• Geothermal Pools Tours
• Museums & Exhibits Tours
• Northern Lights Tours
• Reykjavik Walking Tours
• Sightseeing Tours
• Featured Multi-Day Tours
• Other Multi-Day Tours
• Custom Tours
• Guide & Travel Assistance Service
• Íslenskar Upplifanir
• Private Adventure Tours
• Private Culture & Traditions Tours
• Private Food & Drink Tours
• Private Geothermal Pools Tours
• Private Northern Lights Tours
• Private Reykjavik Walking Tours
• Private Sightseeing Tours
• East Iceland
• Golden Circle
• North of Iceland
• Reykjanes Peninsula
• South Iceland
• West Iceland
• Corporate Tours
• Airport Transfers & Transport
• Travel Guides
• Responsible tourism
• North Iceland
• DMC Services
• Transfers & Transport

Private Bespoke Half day Tour

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• Duration 4-5 Hours
• Group Size 1-8 pax
• Meeting Location Pickup and drop off at your hotel or ship

This is a roughly 4-5 hour Private Bespoke Driving Day Tour where the itinerary is designed based on your wishes so please get in touch so we can design your perfect experience!

This bespoke tour could be:

• A Driving Reykjavik City Tour with stops

Example of a Bespoke Half Day Tour

This was based on a couple’s wishes

“Pick-up at your Hotel at your convenience, perhaps at 9 a.m., or earlier or later.

Places visited, suggestions:

Visit the geothermal exhibition at Hellisheiði geothermal power plant. Open 9-16.

Raufarhólshellir lava tunnel (reservation needed, we will take care of that ). Open 9-17.

New lava field at Geldingadalir/Fagradalsfjall, from last year’s volcanic eruption – relatively short and a rather easy hike.

Return to Hotel.

End of a fun half-day tour with an excellent driver guide.”

What's Included

• Expert driver guidance
• Comfortable Vehicle and fuel

Extras can be booked

• Museums & Exhibits
• Food & Drinks
• Entry to a Lavacave or a Geothermal Spring

Related Tours

Escape Room – The Scientist

Northern Lights Super Jeep Tour

Book These 10 Best Iceland Tours To Uncover The Wonders Of The Land Of Fire And Ice

I celand is a magical destination that can be life-changing. From the incredible colors of the Northern Lights illuminating the night sky milky blue waters of the Blue Lagoon, there is no shortage of memorable experiences to enjoy here. The Land of Fire and Ice is full of natural wonders that can be discovered as part of a guided tour. Whether travelers are driving the Icelandic Ring Road or basing themselves in cozy hostels in Reykjavík for day trips, these are some of the top sights and tours to experience.

South Coast Full Day Tour

Go beyond the capital city of Iceland with this full-day tour of Iceland’s south coast from the capital, Reykjavík . Top attractions that the tour visits include the famous waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, Reynisfjara black sand beach, and Sólheimajökull glacier. Travelers can also spot puffins and glimpse Eyjafjallajökull Volcano during the excursion. Transportation is included, but travelers should bring cash for buying lunch and snacks throughout the day since meals are not part of the ticket price for this tour.

• Tour: South Coast Full Day Tour by Minibus from Reykjavik
• Cost: From $112.00
• Duration: 10 hours
• What’s Included: Wi-Fi on the bus, hotel pick up and drop off, and an Icelandic treat.

Book this tour

Golden Circle Day Trip From Reykjavík

The Golden Circle is a must-do day trip from Reykjavík when visiting Iceland. The tour encompasses three natural wonders of Iceland which are the Gullfoss Waterfall, Strokkur at Geysir, and Thingvellir National Park. The full-day tour includes bus transportation from a hotel in Reykjavík and allows travelers time at each stop to appreciate the incredible scenery, take photos, and ask the tour guide questions. Meals are not included in this full-day tour, so budget cash accordingly for lunch and snacks at stops along the way.

• Tour: Golden Circle Classic Day Trip from Reykjavik
• Cost: From $79.30
• Duration: 7 hours
• What’s Included: Professional tour guide, bus transfer, Wi-Fi on board

Related: Midnight Sun And Hot Springs: 10 Best Places To Relax In Iceland

Snorkeling Between Continents

Iceland offers the unique opportunity to swim between two continents at the Silfra Fissure. This waterway occurs where the North American and European tectonic plates meet and is located inside beautiful Thingvellir National Park. Travelers can show up ready for an adventure with no prep work on their part. All necessary gear is provided to stay warm and dry while swimming and snorkeling in this cold waterway. The views of the clear blue water from below are exceptional and are captured through GoPro photos during the tour. There is no additional fee to receive these photos.

• Tour: Snorkeling Between Continents in Silfra with Photos Included
• Cost: From $168.79
• Duration: 3 hours
• What’s Included: Professional English-speaking Guide, snorkeling tour in Silfra Fissure, GoPro photos from the tour, help from a Certified PADI dive / Dive-master, drysuit, snorkeling equipment, hot drinks, and cookies

Local Foodie Adventure

Enjoying the local cuisine is one of the best ways to learn about a destination, so why not take a food tour while in Reykjavík? This tour allows travelers to sample food from a variety of eateries and food trucks in the city, tasting an array of traditional Icelandic foods. Guests will try Icelandic street food, homemade ice cream, and the famous Icelandic hot dogs. The small group tour is limited to 12 people to ensure a personalized experience that allows travelers to ask questions.

• Tour: Reykjavik Food Walk - Local Foodie Adventure in Iceland
• Cost: $119.00
• What’s Included: Tour guide, 4–5 stops, 8+ dishes to try

Related: Discovering The Unusual: Top 10 Weird Foods To Eat In Iceland

Blue Lagoon Ticket And Transport

The Blue Lagoon is a staple for travelers visiting Iceland. The hot, inviting mineral water is an otherworldly shade of blue, and the in-water bar is a fun feature of the experience. Relaxing here for a full day is worthwhile, especially for the tour price. Book in advance to avoid disappointment since this attraction is so popular among tourists. The package allows travelers to book the Comfort or Premium ticket for the Blue Lagoon and add a bus transfer if necessary. The Comfort ticket includes a towel, one beverage, and a silica face mask, while the Premium ticket also includes a bathrobe and algae face mask.

• Tour: Blue Lagoon Ticket with Optional Transportation
• Cost: From $169.43
• What’s Included: Bus transfer, Premium or Comfort Entrance Ticket

Lake Myvatn, Hot-Springs & Godafoss Waterfall Tour

Travelers who find themselves in northern Iceland in Akureyri have a whole new set of attractions to explore in this part of the country. The half-day tour includes a chance to soak in the Myvatn hot springs and view the incredible cascades of Godafoss waterfall. The tour also stops at the craters of Skútustaðir and the lave fields of Dimmuborgir. The tour ticket price also includes a packed lunch. This is a great opportunity to explore the northern highlights of Iceland in a single day.

• Tour: Lake Myvatn, Hot-Springs & Godafoss Waterfall Tour from Akureyri
• Cost: From $154.00
• Duration: 6 hours
• What’s Included: Transportation and Wi-Fi on the bus

Whale Watching Tour From Reykjavík

Whale watching is a top thing to do in Iceland, so travelers can embark on this exciting adventure to look for majestic creatures off the coast of Reykjavík. The peak season for whale watching is from June to August. While companies can never guarantee that travelers will spot whales while on the tour, the success rates for this tour is extremely high, with 95% success during the summer months and 80% success in the winter. Guests are provided with the necessary gear to remain warm and comfortable on board the ship in every season.

• Tour: The Original Classic Whale Watching from Reykjavik
• Cost: From $87.00
• What’s Included: Live guide, overalls, raincoats, blankets, admission to Wildlife Exhibition, free Wi-Fi on board

Related: 10 Best Iceland Hotels That Showcase The Charms Of The Land Of Fire And Ice

Icelandic Horse Back Riding Tour

The Icelandic Horse is a unique creature that is the only horse breed in Iceland. Among their many interesting and unique traits is the ability to perform one or two additional gaits: Tolt and, sometimes, pace. Riding through the Icelandic countryside on horseback is a magical experience that will stay with travelers for a lifetime. Before getting on the horse, guests of the tour are fitted with helmets for safety and briefed on how to ride. The tour is suitable for all levels of experience.

• Tour : Icelandic Horseback Riding Tour from Reykjavik
• Cost: From $118.94
• Duration: 2 hours
• What’s Included: Helmet, boots, rain gear, tea or coffee

Hike Inside A Volcano

See the inside of Iceland’s dormant Thrihnukagigur volcano on this small group tour that is limited to a maximum of 18 guests. The tour is led by an expert travel guide and takes guests to the Blue Mountains of Iceland where they will journey inside the volcano to see the geological remnants of an eruption that took place 4,000 years ago. Hotel pick-up and drop-off is included as part of the package price.

• Tour: Inside the Volcano: Small Group Thrihnukagigur Hike and Tour from Reykjavik
• Cost: From $367.02
• Duration: 5 to 6 hours
• What’s Included: Hotel pickup and drop-off, a professional guide, helmet, harness, and safety equipment, light refreshments

Northern Lights Sightseeing Tour

Seeing the Northern Lights in Iceland is a bucket-list activity and travelers can do their best to have this experience by booking a guided tour. There is never a guarantee of seeing the lights, but they are best seen from November to March when skies are dark and days are short. The tour takes travelers outside the city, away from light pollution, to improve the chances of spotting the phenomena. Guests also enjoy delicious homemade hot chocolate made from real Icelandic chocolate to help keep warm.

• Tour: #1 Northern Lights tour in Iceland from Reykjavik with PRO photos
• Cost: From $141.60
• Duration: 4 hours
• What’s Included: Professional local driver and guide, hotel pickup and drop-off, Wi-Fi on board, cinnamon buns, wool blanket, professional photos

Reykjavik City – Half Day Private Tour

Reykjavik City’s Half Day Private Tour has been steadily gaining popularity, with a staggering 87% of travelers rating it as an exceptional way to explore the Icelandic capital. As visitors step foot in this vibrant city, they are met with a tapestry of cultural heritage and contemporary allure.

But what truly sets this experience apart? Stay tuned to uncover the hidden gems and tailored experiences that make this private tour a must for anyone seeking an intimate encounter with Reykjavik’s soul.

• Personalized 4-hour tour of Reykjavik’s iconic landmarks and cultural sites.
• Flexible itinerary tailored to individual interests for a unique experience.
• Luxurious exploration in a Land Rover Discovery SDV6 SE with a certified local guide.
• Comprehensive sightseeing with visits to Hallgrímskirkja, Harpa , Perlan , and more.

Here's some more nearby activities we've reviewed

• Silfra: Snorkeling Between Tectonic Plates – Meet on Location
• Keflavik International Airport Private Transfer
• Golden Circle Private Tour Tomato Soup Lunch and Secret Lagoon With Photography
• 2-Day Thorsmork Exploration

Tour Duration and Cancellation Policy

Exploring the Reykjavik City Private Tour’s duration and cancellation policy offers travelers peace of mind and flexibility for their itinerary. With a duration of 4 hours, this tour provides a perfect balance of sightseeing options without feeling rushed.

The cancellation policy allows for tour flexibility , with free cancellation available up to 24 hours in advance, ensuring that travelers can adjust their plans if needed. Plus, the lack of payment required at the time of booking further enhances this flexibility, allowing visitors to make changes without financial consequences.

This policy caters to unexpected circumstances that may arise during travel, giving travelers the freedom to explore Reykjavik at their own pace.

Tour Highlights and Key Landmarks

Amidst the Reykjavik City Private Tour’s captivating itinerary, travelers will uncover a tapestry of iconic landmarks and key highlights waiting to be explored. The tour offers a blend of architectural marvels and hidden gems, providing visitors with a unique perspective on Reykjavik’s design evolution. Travelers will gain local insights and experience culture through interactions with knowledgeable guides.

Key highlights include:

• Hallgrímskirkja Church: An iconic symbol of Reykjavik’s skyline.
• Harpa Concert Hall: A modern architectural masterpiece.
• Perlan : Offering panoramic views and unique architecture.
• Árbær Open Air Museum: Immersing visitors in Iceland’s cultural heritage.
• Alþingi and Höfði House: Historical landmarks adding depth to the tour experience.

More Great Things To Do Nearby

Tour Inclusions and Customization Options

Discover the array of inclusions and customization options available on the Reykjavik City Private Tour for a personalized and enriching experience. The tour offers personalized experiences with a local certified guide providing unique perspectives and local insights. Tailored exploration is at the heart of this adventure, allowing visitors to customize their journey based on individual interests. The tour includes stops at major attractions such as Perlan and Árbær Open Air Museum, ensuring a comprehensive exploration of Reykjavik’s key landmarks. Enjoy the comfort of the Land Rover Discovery SDV6 SE 4 wheel drive, accommodating up to 4 adult passengers with leather seats for a luxurious experience through the city’s streets.

Tour Itinerary Overview

As visitors embark on the Reykjavik City Private Tour, they can look forward to a captivating journey through the heart of Reykjavik, seeing the city’s vibrant culture and iconic landmarks. The tour itinerary includes:

• Guided exploration of the Hallgrímskirkja church.
• Insightful visits to the Harpa concert hall.
• Opportunities to savor local cuisine and delicacies.
• Engaging with cultural insights from a certified local guide.
• Optional stops at Ásmundur Sveinsson and the Old Harbour.

This half-day adventure promises a blend of historical knowledge, architectural marvels , and a taste of authentic Icelandic flavors, ensuring a memorable experience that goes beyond sightseeing.

Vehicle Features and Comfort

Ensuring passenger comfort and optimal exploration capabilities, the Land Rover Discovery SDV6 SE 4 wheel drive features leather seats , high ground clearance , and darkened rear seat windows for added privacy during the Reykjavik City Private Tour.

The plush leather seats provide a luxurious experience, while the high ground clearance allows for smooth navigation through rocky terrains, ensuring a comfortable ride for all passengers.

The darkened rear seat windows not only offer privacy but also enhance the overall ambiance inside the vehicle, creating a cozy atmosphere throughout the tour.

These comfort features are designed to elevate the passenger experience , allowing guests to relax and enjoy the scenic views of Reykjavik in style.

Pick Up and Drop Off Details

Passengers embarking on the Reykjavik City Private Tour can expect seamless pick up and drop off services tailored to their desired locations within the city. The tour ensures a hassle-free experience from start to finish, allowing guests to focus on enjoying the sights and sounds of Reykjavik. To enhance your journey, consider exploring:

• Local cuisine : Taste authentic Icelandic dishes at recommended eateries.
• Shopping districts : Uncover unique souvenirs and local crafts in Reykjavik’s vibrant shopping areas.
• Personalized recommendations : Receive insider tips on hidden gems for dining and shopping.
• Efficient transfers : Enjoy punctual pick up and drop off timings for a smooth tour experience.
• Tailored itinerary : Customize stops to include food tastings or shopping opportunities based on your preferences.

Optional Stops and Additional Attractions

Discover captivating optional stops and additional attractions that enrich your Reykjavik City Private Tour experience with a touch of local charm and cultural significance. When exploring Reykjavik, you’ll encounter various sightseeing options and exploration opportunities that showcase the city’s essence. Consider adding these stops to your itinerary:

These stops offer diverse perspectives and enhance your Reykjavik adventure with enriching experiences.

Here's a few more nearby tours and experiences we have reviewed.

• Private Northern Lights Tour
• Icelands Gunnuhver: Fire Land Tour
• Private Blue Lagoon With 4hr Stopover – Admission Included
• Reykjadalur Hike, From Reykjavík – PRIVATE TOUR
• RIB Whale Watching Small-Group Boat Tour From Reykjavik
• Golden Circle and Glacier Super Jeep Adventure

Common questions

Can children participate in the reykjavik city half day private tour.

Children can definitely participate in the Reykjavik City half day private tour. The tour offers a range of child-friendly activities and attractions suitable for families. The tour provides a fun and engaging experience for kids of all ages.

Are Meals or Snacks Provided During the Tour?

During the tour, meals or snacks are not provided. However, travelers can inform the guide of any dietary restrictions or preferences. They can suggest food options or recommend local eateries that cater to their needs.

Is There a Restroom Available on the Land Rover Discovery Vehicle?

Yes, there is a restroom available on the Land Rover Discovery vehicle, ensuring comfort during the tour. The vehicle’s amenities include a restroom, leather seats, and high ground clearance for various terrains, providing a convenient and enjoyable experience.

Are There Any Photo Opportunities Included in the Tour Itinerary?

Yes, on the tour , guests can capture stunning photos of scenic landscapes and intricate architectural details. The itinerary offers ample opportunities to snap memorable shots, showcasing Reykjavik’s beauty and unique design elements.

Are There Any Age Restrictions for Passengers on the Land Rover Discovery Vehicle?

Age restrictions and safety regulations apply for passengers on the Land Rover Discovery vehicle. It can accommodate up to 4 adult passengers comfortably. Children must meet the required age and height restrictions to ensure a safe and enjoyable tour experience.

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Experience the magic of Reykjavik like never before with the Half Day Private Tour. From the stunning architecture to the rich history, this tour offers a personalized adventure that will leave you in awe.

With a knowledgeable guide, luxurious transportation , and customizable stops , you’ll discover hidden gems and iconic landmarks in style.

Don’t miss out on this unforgettable journey through the heart of Iceland’s capital city.

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The Hadal Zone

Audio: Annie Proulx reads.

Arwen Rasmont waits hours at Keflavík International for his flight; they call it as he leaves the men’s room. He walks past the mirrored wall and is assaulted, as usual, by his dead father’s handsome image: high-arched nose, yellow hair. A difference in the contact glance—the father’s a hard squinting challenge, the son’s sidelong and measuring.

A week earlier the luxury-real-estate-rental mogul Rodrig Cushion had sent Arwen to Reykjavík to examine and make a judgment on a rare nineteenth-century whaling captain’s house perched above a fjord with a view of dripping icebergs. Now, as he stands in the boarding line, he checks the snapshots on his phone. The most recent shows the interior entryway of that house; an umbrella jar holds several walking sticks and two ancient Inuit harpoons with whale-bone barbs; on the wall above them hangs a gleaming nineteenth-century harpoon gun. It is, Arwen thinks, whaling history in a nutshell. Such details, he knows, are priceless to Cushion. He looks at the steel gleam of the harpoons, cruel instruments. The owner is a taciturn old woman who didn’t like the sound of Cushion’s deal and pushed the door open, inviting Arwen out but not before he took that quick shot of the harpoons.

When Acme-Air’s loudspeakers rattle out the information that boarding for his flight is under way, it is 3:20  a.m. and the Icelandic sun is coming up. He calls Carolla, who takes eight rings to answer.

Podcast: The Writer’s Voice Listen to Annie Proulx read “The Hadal Zone.”

“So, where are you? Do you know what time it is? Are you in Boston? Will you be home soon?”

“No, I’m still in Reykjavík. We’re just boarding. Sorry, babe, I forgot the time difference. I thought I was headed home, but I have to go to New York first. Via Chicago.”

“What, Iceland to Chicago to New York?”

“Cushion’s plan. He popped it on me out of the blue. He’s in Chicago this week. Look, I’ll call from there or New York. I don’t know what he wants.”

“Well—don’t call at midnight. And as long as he pays for the travel he can do that, right? You get to go to marvellous places—golden sands of Araby and all that.”

“Carolla, there’s a serious heat wave, some new virus, an earthquake, and gunfire in Araby right now, so I’m hoping he don’t get ideas about luxury tents and camels. I’ll be back Friday night and there’s a beaut cod on ice on its way to you from the fish market in Reykjavík.”

“For Saturday?”

“Right. I ate at a restaurant in the fish market, tried to get their recipe for the baked cod, no go, but my God, it was—look, I’ll call you from New York. When I know what he wants, O.K.? Take care of that cod. Love you, love you, I do love you.”

Only Arwen, in that large shouting family of boys, inherits the father’s face. All his brothers have enviable potato heads. As a child, he is the one chosen for the front row of school photographs or given a cookie and posed on the laps of relatives. Teachers treat him kindly and he imagines the world is a smooth place without difficulties until a summer family visit with his mother’s people in Kansas. Two cousins, lump-jawed bigger guys with pimples, hit and push him back and forth until his nose bleeds. He cries and runs to tell his mother, but he is intercepted by his father, who pulls him into the bathroom and hands him a sopping washcloth, tells him that it could have been worse than a bloody nose and a few bruises. “Hey,” he says, “the plug-uglies hate you at the same time they . . .” and he gives Arwen a fatherly smack on the shoulder. Arwen never knows what he means.

Read an interview with the author for the story behind the story.

The father, Joe Rasmont, is a roofing contractor, whose pride is his Ulster Scots-Irish ancestry and his love of a scrimmage. The mother is a practitioner of invisibility and has secret habits. The father and Arwen’s brothers are loud; they like sports contests and marching bands, and on weekends do not get up until high noon. Arwen dodges arguments, likes silence and subtleties, sleeps lightly. The father laughs with Schadenfreude when he hears that a boy from Iowa has been to the ocean and had his right leg severed by a shark. He says, “The kid was dumb. Punch a shark in the snoot it hauls ass,” but Arwen has recurrent thoughts of the boy’s terror. By his teens Arwen knows that his good looks are evidence not of his personal uniqueness but of his father’s genetic domination. Even when Joe Rasmont dies after a fall from a roof where he was faking a clog dance for the plaudits of three preteen girls on their way home from school, Arwen’s knowledge that he is not uniquely himself folds him inward.

At the state university Arwen signs up for the jumbled mix of architecture, history, and arts courses popular with the student misfits. In his last year he meets Carolla Windon—strong-willed and so sure of herself that with her he feels guided, a feeling he mistakes for love. She seems a different kind of person, a fizzing bit of electricity that has broken free from the main lightning bolt.

Carolla finds that Arwen’s good looks enhance her own plain-Jane self, so she makes a decision not to correct his grammar. After graduation she hustles him into the jeweller’s shop to buy her engagement ring. She organizes their wedding and arranges the honeymoon—a trip to Japan where they overdo garden tours and he develops an allergy to shoyu—and finds them a little saltbox house half an hour from Boston. He revels in the love-light that shimmers from her and envelops him as she excitedly describes her plan for owning a rescued-and-restored-furniture shop or a booth at the county fair where she will sell home-made pickles that somehow are never made. She is not a beauty: sandy hair, elliptical brown eyes, and a thin mouth perfectly sized to take in whole apricots. She is also bony and stiffly put together, wide hipped, her arms and legs apparently hammered into place. But her rapid reactions sweep him along. He is secretly thrilled by her liveliness and her sudden huge enthusiasms that disappear and reappear like sunlight on a day of moving clouds. She puts his wardrobe in order, manages their joint taxes, and works out soy-free menus that keep him in good health. She is exceptionally loving and a serious cook.

“Carolla, you treat me like the prize pig you’re going to show at the farm fair—”

“I think you love every minute of being the prize piggy, don’t you?”

He does love it.

Early in their marriage he expects babies but it doesn’t happen. Carolla does not seem to miss being a mother and Arwen can find no way to introduce the subject without sounding like a domineering male.

In those same early days Arwen tries several jobs before finding Back Bay Garden Supply, in Boston. Since childhood he has waited for a defining moment, an event or a flash of comprehension that will shift him into self-recognition, the kind that happens in books when a character nails it—“from that moment Bertie Fuse knew what his life was going to be”—but Arwen’s shock of understanding never arrives. The closest he has ever come to an epiphany was discovering, as a six-year-old, that flakes of mica in the driveway gravel could be split into glassy layers with his thumbnail. Life just goes on, but he never looks at a driveway again without checking for micaceous gleam.

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Albert Bebby, a large man in his sixties who still has great physical strength and flexibility, owns Back Bay Garden Supply. He also owns some acreage with a two-room shack on it forty miles north, past Gristle Falls, past the years-long paving work on a twisted mountain road, past the renovation of the old woollen mill below the falls. Bebby is a climate-change denier who sometimes wears his MAGA hat and argues that every grim bit of warming, hundred-year storm, or sea-level rise is an anomaly. There have always been storms and hot days. Yet Arwen likes him, and he likes Arwen, and assigns him every interesting job, from greenhouse work to scouting antique shops for giant urns, encourages him to take night classes in garden design—training he might have given his son, Daniel, had turtles not interfered. Daniel is afflicted with a sense of moral outrage over the misdeeds of humans which are bringing about the climate shift, an outrage that merges with his impulse to save small animals, especially turtles, from highway traffic. Daniel used to spend weeks at the shack up north. Arwen does not know him except through hearsay, because a year before Arwen met his father, Daniel quit the shack and moved to the West Coast to become a road ecologist.

Bebby mutters to Arwen that he is glad to be free from Daniel’s nightly dinner-table sermons about humans’ destruction of the natural world. Daniel, gone but not forgotten, sends frequent e-mail bulletins to his father offering proofs of climate change, exposing the machinations of villainous corporations and of governments that are planning to dredge and rape the seafloor, describing the coming floods that will drown the cities around the Great Lakes and create Lake Gargantua. Daniel puts all his business out there—he cares, and he wants his father to care. Bebby dismisses the messages: “Daniel don’t get it that there is always ups and downs. He thinks this ‘climate’ stuff is something special. We’ve had problems with weather and the seasons since the beginning. It’s in the Bible, all the plagues and floods. Just like now with Covid and Vermont underwater last year. And this business about carbon credits—there’s a crooks’ game for you.” But he continues to read Daniel’s warnings and prophecies aloud, and Arwen listens. After one of Daniel’s messages exhorting his father not to eat fish species that are struggling to survive—cod from the North Atlantic are on that list—Arwen feels a twinge of guilt, feels the earth beneath him stir uneasily like a sleeper seeking a more comfortable position, but the stirring is also possibly a global response to the devilish human fleas that plague its surface. He, Arwen, is just such a flea. He knows that.

Arwen and Carolla wink at couples who concoct a weekly date night to keep their marriage lively. Instead, they take a full day in the kitchen, usually Saturday, when they cook and eat together, trying difficult recipes such as duck roasted in a watermelon, chicharrones served in a greasy paper bag, a kavkaski shashlik . It is awkward in their poky little kitchen in East Ashbane, crowded with culinary accoutrements. They give each other presents of kitchen gadgets: smokers, hullers, scalders. Carolla lets him know that it is not every husband who can slice sea scallops into thin disks, steam them in a spoonful of white wine, and convert the juices into an unctuous sauce, and that she loves him for it. They drink back-page cocktails unknown to most bartenders and increasingly precious wines from European vineyards fainting with heat. They make a little world of toasting, roasting, boiling, grilling, and swilling which is inhabited only by the two of them. Once, a delivery man with a box of frozen crab legs looked around the kitchen and remarked, “You get a burglar in here, he sees all them knives, you got a killer instead of a thief.” And he laughed at his own wit.

After some happy years, their life together changes. Carolla’s mother dies, leaving her daughter money and a historic house called White Chimneys. And Rodrig Cushion appears out of nowhere.

White Chimneys is a large, extremely plain ten-room building, its defiant lack of exterior ornamentation a moneyed sneer at more ostentatious dwellings. White Chimneys dominates the landscape, exudes power. On the day of the funeral for Carolla’s mother, the thought flashes into Arwen’s mind that he is looking at an early example of brutalist architecture. The house is twenty-eight miles from the coast, set in acres of fourth-growth, boulder-strewn woodland that has seized the fields where sheep once ate grass down to the dirt. The woodland is neglected, a tangle of downed and broken trees, and in the clearings and along the old pathways grow invasive oriental bittersweet, buckthorn, Morrow’s honeysuckle, poison ivy, nettles, and Canada thistle in such exuberance that the place can never be rid of them. Foreign phragmites encircle and choke off a small pond.

After the cursory funeral—there are no other mourners—they walk through the house. Carolla leads the way with a bottle of lavender-essence germicide, spraying as she advances. She had visited the house only twice while her mother was alive.

“Yes, and now it’s mine so everything is new to me,” she says as she talks into her phone, making a list of the furniture and fittings, the heavy damask drapes and two Chinese knotted silk rugs. Arwen lags behind, trying to quench his growing distaste for the house. It seems to him that every wall and staircase exudes an unpleasant past—incurable illnesses, schemes and plots, intentions, hot-breath lies and betrayals. When Carolla drags chairs back and shoves tables so that the legs chatter across the uneven boards he hears centuries-old bullying laughter. They go upstairs and the groaning treads evoke women weeping in closets—people cornered by circumstances beyond modern recognition. He knows that it is a terrible house but he keeps his mouth shut. Carolla does not care about the truths of history or geology; her ideas of how the world and time and people come together are set in her mind like Roman concrete. So he says nothing, for there is no point in arguing with Roman concrete.

“I just love it. I will have to get an antiques expert in here to help me catalogue everything,” Carolla says. “I know Mother was really upset that a Searles family portrait was stolen by a house guest. Or a burglar. Or the guy who brings wood for the fireplaces. About twenty years ago. I don’t know if they ever got it back. I think it’s still on the IFAR list. An ancestor on a black horse.”

On that first walk-through of White Chimneys Arwen turns away from a cherry tallboy and, as if he had stubbed a toe, he is suddenly filled with utter despair and dread. The feeling lasts only a millisecond and does not return; he believes it to have been the remnant of an old memory, so old he can not pull its long-ago reality into his present consciousness. He supposes that the brief but terrible spasm of misery is something he had experienced in wordless infancy. Children, especially crying babies, have been invisible to him for decades but now he knows unmistakably that they are not complaining of wet diapers or hunger, that even without words they roar to show they are in the grip of black existential despair. That he and Carolla do not have children was once a secret sorrow to him; he is relieved now that he need not comfort a squalling disconsolate infant and falsely say, “There, there, it’s all right,” while knowing that nothing is or ever can be all right. Yes, it is better that they have not brought a child onto the despoiled earth.

White Chimneys is not a property that has been handed down through generations of Carolla’s family. Her family hands down nothing but the urge to move physically east and socially upward. The house was built in 1772 by Jonas Cutts, the wealthy owner of thousands of acres between two New England rivers who sold them off little by little, to maintain the Cutts family’s bizarre illusion of living on an English country estate. Sometime in the mid-nineteenth century the property came into the possession of a distant cousin, Henry Mintroy Searles, a Portsmouth shipping magnate and goods importer. In Portsmouth in the late twentieth century, at an exhibition of early-American dough troughs, Carolla’s mother found and rapidly married Nathan, the remnant Searles, who perished in the first wave of Covid . She metamorphosed overnight into a member of an “old Colonial family” with presumed American Revolution connections and became an impassioned spokeswoman for the house she described as a pivotal headquarters in the nation’s early history.

Upstairs they come to the library, a room whose walls are tiers of glass-fronted cabinets, the shelves freighted with books all the colors of old age: burned caramel, leached gray, dirty blue, streakily faded red, the green of nettles. A small fireplace in a sequestered alcove with two crewel-worked-upholstery wing chairs facing each other lets him know without evidence that here the earlier occupants made their grasping decisions.

As they walk through White Chimneys Carolla ticks off the possibilities.

“It’s better than I remember it. I can sell it. Or rent it out. It’s stuffed with antiques and portraits. It’s a historic house. Well, now that you’re here you know. The house is famous as a meeting place for the patriots. When Mother got it, after Nathan Searles passed, she had an open house the first weekend of September every year and tourists paid to walk around. There is a letter in the historical society’s collection showing that George Washington stayed in the north bedroom when he met John Adams. Or Sam Adams. Or Thomas Jefferson—one of them. Mother’s copy hangs in the entry hallway—I don’t know why it isn’t there now. We’ll look for it. Mother always intended to rent out the house for the ‘historical experience.’ But she never did it. Pretty sure I can rent it out.”

“And where will we live?” Arwen asks, the pinched saltbox in East Ashbane a two-hour drive from White Chimneys.

“Easy-peasy. We’ll fix up the carriage house with the money we get from selling the East Ashbane place. We will make a really great kitchen.”

He has to admit that it is sensible. The carriage house is a handsome and sturdy building. He likes its inaccessibility out in the broken black trees. They make an upstairs bedroom and living room in the carriage house and turn the entire stone-floored downstairs into a huge kitchen with two refrigerators, a professional chopping block, ceiling-to-floor pantry, three prep tables, two dishwashers, and a big squashy sofa for relaxing while waiting for something to come out of the oven. There is an alcove with an antique chestnut plank table and only two chairs, for they never invite guests to their feasts.

Carolla quits her job to work on the interior of White Chimneys.

“She left enough money and there is a lot of work to do on this place. We have to redo all the bathrooms. Also, the gardens and grounds are in terrible shape,” she says and looks at him.

“I can take care of that,” he says. He is glad then for his job with Albert Bebby and the classes in garden design. He even tells Bebby, “Al, it looks like a big job.” To Carolla he says that a restored and redesigned back garden at White Chimneys will be his contribution to the renovation if she gives him a budget.

“We’ll do it together,” she says. “Just let me know what your ideas are. And how much it will cost.”

He makes a plan with Bebby to work three days a week in Boston.

“I can sleep in the warehouse,” he says. But Bebby insists that Arwen use Daniel’s room—Daniel is immured in Oregon and has declared himself free of the East Coast. He is engaged to a veterinarian who specializes in reptiles and he writes a letter to Bebby describing his happiness near the Pacific, which he says is a superior ocean, far more interesting than the Atlantic. Bebby replies with some malice that the Atlantic is growing larger while the Pacific is shrinking.

With Bebby’s advice Arwen plans a wrought-iron archway. He discovers some antique bed edgings in a machinery warehouse, and although he wants to use native plants in the gardens Bebby begs him to choose the exotic and curious, as the original owners did. Yes, Arwen thinks, and that is why the place is choked with European weeds. Yet Albert Bebby knows the right stonemason to repair the tumbled rock wall; he gives Arwen the name of a poison-ivy-removal lady, and puts him on the trail of two old teak benches that once graced the gardens of the Maxfield Parrish house. They will be at their best placed along a gravelled path with good views of the water feature, a life-size spouting crocodile, a rescue from an estate sale. The crocodile looks uncomfortable as does all spouting statuary. The creature lies on its belly, snout raised like a howling wolf.

Arwen begins the physical work himself—it will get him back in shape. A patch of stinging nettles at the base of a mound surmounted by a huge red-oak stump takes a day’s work in heavy gloves, stout boots, and a hazmat suit. He pulls up the nettles, the feathery towers of sorrel, ragweed, and ironweed. At night he fills sheets of paper with sketches of a fern grotto, a tiny wildflower meadow, a topiary shrub in the shape of a galloping centaur, perhaps a curved stone wall sheltering a beautifully shaped little tree he has yet to find. The red-oak stump is enormous. Bebby says that red oaks have the deepest roots of any tree in New England’s forests and it will be costly to get the stump out—better to work it into the greater design. It can perhaps be a pedestal for an interesting sculpture—something like David Nash’s charred shapes, or even something local.

During the first autumn that Carolla owns the house she continues her mother’s hour-long leaf-peeper tours. The customers, all tourists, pay a hundred dollars each for the pleasure of seeing the cherry tallboy whose drawers gleam with decorative brass-inlay borders, the great fireplace so large a man can stand upright in it, the cast-iron cauldron big enough to boil a small walrus, and the rare beehive oven.

Rodrig Cushion is one of the visitors, and this is his first meeting with Carolla. He is a big man. Six-three with massive shoulders and bursting arms, which Arwen thinks are not muscle but good old American fat. In a jacket his shoulders look a yard wide but atop the swollen neck balances a narrow pointy face with slightly popped green-tomato eyes that seem to say, “What! Don’t you believe me? It’s all true!” Arwen thinks Cushion’s head looks like one of Richard Avedon’s road-trip portraits—one of the drifters. Cushion inhales deeply as his eyes sweep over the Queen Anne breakfast table with its sensuous, curved legs, the corner cupboard stacked with chinoiserie, the firedogs. He says, “Oh, my God. Oh, my God.” He sizes up Arwen and nods, but openly declares his love of the house to Carolla, and at the end of the tour he takes her hand and says very softly that he wants to “partner up” with her. He gives her his card, explains his international rental business. “I take a very unique approach to the glamour of history,” he says. “If you join me in my business—Heritage House Holidays—I will open the way to a select clientele that longs for deep historical experiences.” He stares into her golden eyes with his drifter glare and says in a superior voice, as though conferring a prize, “We will both be part of the ecosystem of heritage homes.” He promises to free Carolla from the burden of bookkeeping, insurance, upkeep, cleaning, advertising, and vetting guests. But she will have to install invisible air-conditioning because of the increasingly fierce summer heat. Once the air-conditioning is in, he says, he can get them twelve-thousand-dollar-a-week rentals in summer and autumn—Heritage House will take only a third of the rent. It is Carolla’s property and she has the final word, and that word is “yes.”

Rodrig Cushion seems to feel that Arwen comes with the deal as a subsidiary Heritage House Holidays employee. He calls on Arwen to examine other properties, discuss the annual listings brochure, and listen to his views on the international historic-house-rental business. There is more to it than Arwen imagines—special celebrations for local heroes and patriots of old like Pilsudski, Savanarola, Guy Fawkes, Betsy Ross, and especially Robert E. Lee, whose statues are being pulled down everywhere by left-wing philistines and scoffers. Small details are not neglected and Cushion and Carolla will tour White Chimneys together with the renters on the final day of their stay, “just to make sure,” as Cushion says, “that nothing got broken or cracked.” But Arwen understands it is to see that nothing has been stolen—not a fork, not a brick, not a portrait on the wall, not a linen pillow slip, not a pinch of ashes from the fireplace—for the framed letter proving Washington’s stay is never found. Theft is the only possible explanation.

Arwen does all that Cushion asks without pay beyond travel expenses, which go to Carolla, who makes his reservations and doles out his travel allowance. Arwen believes that the arrangement is some undeclared part of Carolla’s “partnering up” with Cushion, although he sees no salary, dividend, or share.

For the first months of the partnership Carolla spends hours in consultation with air-conditioning experts. Rodrig Cushion recommends Kool Haus Air Wizards. The outlook is not good. The old house is a sieve of air leaks—to make it tight means replacing every window and door. There is no insulation, no ductwork. And mini-splits cannot be used because they will ruin the authenticity of the old house. But the situation is not hopeless. Air-conditioning can be done though at an astronomical price. Carolla balks and after a conference with Rodrig Cushion they decide that temporarily the house will do without air-conditioning and will be rented only in times of moderate temperatures. Cushion sighs heavily, says, “You know what? This is really a modular situation, so let’s just take a deep breath and see how it goes. But you will have to do it someday. If you want the real money.”

Arwen works on White Chimney’s gardens on weekends, when he’s not travelling on Cushion’s business. He hires Maddy Vane, a local landscape guy with a Kubota, to level some uneven ground where he envisions the fern grotto. The blade scrapes away the topsoil and then squeals as it rakes across a flat stone.

“Look at that!” Maddy says, pointing at soil-caked letters engraved on the stone. “Got yourself a gravestone. Could be somebody historic. Man, that’s insane!”

“I guess I’ll clean it up,” Arwen says. “You don’t have to hang around.” But Maddy is interested in the stone and takes a stance near it that tells Arwen he is not going to leave. Arwen gets the hose and two stiff brushes, and handing one to Maddy he says, “We might as well see what it is. Looks like some inscription. Maybe an Emily Dickinson poem for garden thoughts.”

“More likely a burial verse. Gotta be somebody’s grave. Right here in your back yard. You’ll have to call the police.” Arwen says nothing but begins to scrub at the stone. Word pieces emerge: “Stra,” “Froz,” “esires.”

“Not Emily Dickinson, I don’t think,” he says. By late afternoon the chiselled words lie revealed in six puzzling lines:

What strange Congealed Heart have I when I Under such Beauty shining like the Sun Able to make Frozen Affection fly, And Icikles of Frostbitt Love to run. Yea, and Desires lockt in an heart of Steel Or Adamant, breake prison, nothing feel.

He turns to Maddy and opens his mouth as if to ask the question. Maddy shakes his head. “Not like any grave verse I ever seen. Kind of a downer. Not sure what it means but I wouldn’t want that on my stone. Better get in touch with Will Honor. He’s the old president of the historical society and he knows everything worth knowing about this town from way back. Used to be a history professor at some university. They got a new president now—Mrs. Ella Miller Faller—but she still has to ask old Will about some things. She’s not up on the fine points. Give me a call if you want to get back to levelling that area. Call me nosy but I’d like to hear what Will Honor has to say.”

It is weeks before he remembers to call William Honor and ask him about the verse chiselled into the stone. The warm autumn days lean against one another like books on a shelf. Bright leaves cascade and still the days and nights are mild. Biting flies continue to hatch as though it were June and their insect lives stretch before them in an endless glory of sunlight. Arwen knows that the autumnal storms of crashing branches and splintered trees will come soon and cool the heated earth. There may even be early snow that will rapidly vaporize but make the point that the seemingly endless summer has been a lure, that the bitter stone-splintering cold of ancient days has returned to turn the leafy bowers into ice chambers, to freeze the marrow in deer bones and leave them poised to leap but immovable on their slender dead-cold legs.

If Rodrig Cushion looks like a nineteen-seventies interstate drifter, William Honor looks like an elderly African American artist, tall and spare, barefoot, clad in a pair of rolled-up duck trousers and a paint-blotched singlet as he opens his door. He holds a soft rounded-bristle paintbrush in his left hand.

“Mr. Honor?”

“Yes. And you are Arwen Rasmont.”

“I am. Thanks for seeing me.”

“Come in. Should I resemble a Sunday painter it is because I am a Sunday painter. Head out to the back porch while I clean this brush and then we can talk. I’ll join you in a few minutes.”

The screened back porch is stacked with junk, furnished with old wicker chairs, a table of planks laid on cinder blocks, a weathered green sideboard missing its shelves. The view is of a yellow garden where goldfinches stitch the air above, over and through a quarter acre of black-eyed Susans. The little birds are not still for an instant, diving and swirling, yellow on yellow in a patch of transparent yellow light.

William Honor returns with a pitcher of what he says is lemonade. There is no doubt about the lemon as the drink is unsugared and impossibly sour. Arwen takes one swallow, grimaces, and puts down the glass. He tells William Honor about Carolla, White Chimneys, the garden he hopes to make, the uncovered slab with the mysterious verse. “Here is the verse,” he says, handing Honor the typed-out lines. “Could it be Emily Dickinson . . . ?”

William Honor joins the first and last lines aloud in a sombre, pinched voice: “What strange congealed heart have I when I . . . nothing feel.” Then he says, “No, not Dickinson. I think by quite a different person. You say White Chimneys was built in 1772?”

“Yes. Or maybe earlier. By Jonas Cutts. And then it passed on to Henry Searles and eventually to my wife.”

“Indeed. Searles from Portsmouth. Important fellow. But 1772 is too late for the poet I have in mind. Is your wife a Searles descendant?”

“No. Her mother married the last of the Searleses. They claimed it was an important meeting place for George Washington during the American Revolution.”

“That would have been quite an event for General Washington—the horseback ride from Virginia to New England—not something he would do often. And, of course, there is the name—White Chimneys. Perhaps you and Mrs. Rasmont are not aware that during the time of the Revolution having white-painted chimneys was a secret way of declaring to others in the know that ‘here live true loyalists to King George’?”

“No! We certainly had no idea—but that would mean Washington probably never—”

“Quite right. Probably never. Benedict Arnold, perhaps, or Major André, but not Washington. There is an old Federal in Kennebunkport called Tory Chimneys—and of course they, too, are painted white. It would be helpful if you can find out anything about the religious tastes of the Cutts and the Searleses. The verse on the stone is interesting. I need to do a little digging but I think I know who wrote it. A strange and rather tortured early preacher-poet working through his private beliefs long before Cutts built his manse. It might be one of his Meditations. What is not clear is why it would have been chiselled onto a stone in the garden of a 1772 Royalist’s house. In fact, it is doubtful that the stone could have been chiselled before 1937 except by someone with a very private knowledge of Colonial church history. I’ll look into it. May I suggest that we meet again in two weeks, on Friday?”

“Of course,” Arwen says, his imagination steaming up.

The pallid Icelandic morning light makes him feel worn out—waiting for hours in airports kills him. He wants it to be Saturday, wants to be home in the carriage-house kitchen with Carolla, sharpening the knives, listening to Norteño music.

After a year of what Rodrig Cushion and Carolla call “partnership” it is still an unspoken, unwritten, and undiscussed arrangement that Cushion pays for travel and hotel rooms. Arwen takes care of food, car fares, phone calls. Rather than argue with Cushion he goes along. Slow and careful moves will work in his favor without hassle, without confrontation. Without shouting. But he notices certain things. Cushion, despite his many global offices, seems inept at anything except convincing women to let him handle their properties. He has a string of European “countesses” who let him rent out their mouldering heaps, which are more reminiscent of Piranesi ruins than of Downton Abbey. He can be persuasive and gently insinuating but Arwen knows he will drive toothpicks under your fingernails to get his way.

Acme-Air’s plane is old and it stinks. He thinks the odor is like what you smell on opening a box of crackers languishing in a forgotten cupboard. Arwen has a window seat—he always has a window seat. Even flying over the ocean he finds pleasure in looking down, watching colors change from the pastel of coastal shallows, where he searches for the dark commas of whales, to the blue-black wrinkles of deep water. As the plane angles away he sees Reykjavík like a printed map and thinks he can just glimpse the sun-gilded geologic folds of the Hallgrímskirkja steeple. Then Reykjavík is gone. He is so intent on the dwindling view that he doesn’t hear the woman in the seat in front of him asking something. She has twisted around in order to speak through the window-side gap between the seats and the wall of the plane.

“Your window blind! . . . Pull it down . . . light . . . ruin my movie!”

He squints back at her through the aperture and sees her black-eyebrowed glare and on a corner of her little screen shuddering images of Hollywood gangsters. He knows about “air rage,” when disturbed passengers flip into violent tantrums; although he wants to watch the ocean he pulls down his shade. Air rage and road rage, waiting-in-line rage. He leans back and shuts his eyes, thinking about the countless rage attacks that are now part of daily life. His old college roommate Timo lost his job at the observatory in Puerto Rico when the big radio telescope, weak from age and neglect, fell apart. It took a year for Timo to find a job teaching at a small college in Nebraska. There his sixteen-year-old son Alondro was shot dead in what the papers called “a road-rage incident.”

Arwen brought nothing to read on the plane and sits bored and clenched in his seat until he, too, turns on his screen, to watch the symbol of their tiny plane moving over the ocean, over the unrecognizable names of shipwrecks and seamounts—Reykjanes Ridge, Charlie-Gibbs Fracture Zone, Orphan Knoll. What are these places, he wonders—they are not islands—and he remembers a trip a year earlier on a North Atlantic flight when he saw constellations of clouds, the icy edge of Greenland, thousands of scattered bergy bits and open water giving way to a scribbled edge of ice that was no longer a continuous sheet but broken everywhere by glittering meltwater, and then, in a brilliant burst of sunlight like a death ray from space, he saw great thrusting mountains of purest snow. That day he pressed his face against the window until the landscape below went foggy and the mountains dissolved in smears. He sits now in the musty Acme-Air seat remembering that flight, burning to see what lies below, and edges his window shade up a few inches. Immediately the black-eyebrowed woman in the seat in front of him shouts, “ Put down your window shade! ”

Hours later in Chicago he waits at the baggage carrousel. As always, the wait is long. He glances at the other passengers standing beside the moving belt like herons poised for the opportune fish. The woman with the black eyebrows is ten feet away and looking at him. He moves to the far side of the carrousel and wills his bag to appear. But Black Eyebrows follows him to his new position and plants herself in front of him.

“I want to explain to you. About me watching the movie. You see—it was my son. He was a actor. His first movie—‘Deadly Garbage.’ I always watch it when I can. He died in a night-club shooting out in California last year and I guess I am not over it.”

He feels himself reddening, feels the burn of dislike shift a little but most of it is still there. He turns away from her to look at the approaching bags. And with relief sees his old brown bag with the broken handle lumbering along. Carolla has been after him to replace it for years but about this he is stubborn. He seizes it now and as he turns he says to the woman, “I hope you get over it.”

“You people!” she calls after him. “You are one of those woke people who think they know everything.”

In Chicago he is told that Cushion is in New York at an emergency meeting—Arwen is to follow at once. In New York the car booked to meet him isn’t there and when he calls the car service a voice tells him that the driver has gone to Grand Central instead of to J.F.K. “Of course,” Arwen says, “hard to tell them apart.” The harried voice seems to blame him for the mistake and tells him to take a cab.

There is another long line and a forty-minute wait. The cabdriver—a scrawny older man—drives rapidly and erratically, cutting off other vehicles, muttering imprecations in an unfamiliar language under his breath, swerving in and out of lanes, blowing his horn to force laggard drivers to let him by. Several times Arwen, who sways with each lurch, asks him to slow down but the man speeds on. When they pull up at the hotel Arwen speaks slowly to the driver and hands him the exact fare.

“No-tip-because-you-dangerous-driver.”

The man looks at him; his inflamed dark eyes fill with tears. As the doorman opens the cab door and Arwen puts one foot on the sidewalk the driver suddenly accelerates and pulls out into traffic, pitching Arwen and his bag into the doorman’s arms.

“Crazy driver,” Arwen says. The doorman wears an elaborate uniform like a doorman in an old-fashioned Viennese film—part of the hotel’s conceit. The cuffs are frayed.

He says “Yeah. Everybody’s like that now—y’know?”

In the elevator Arwen’s thoughts are not of the taxi-driver or Black Eyebrows but of the North Atlantic seamounts. In the room he opens his laptop, begins looking for the names of the mounts, and blunders into an undersea gazetteer. Such is the power of the names and descriptions that he feels himself sliding below the water, past mounts and spiky cockscombs of rock. Over the centuries drowning people must have seen the vertiginous undersea mountains with their fading sight as they glided into the dense blackness. He reads that some chains of seamounts are higher than the Rockies, higher than the Himalayas, one undersea mountain higher than Everest, heaved up by invisible plate tectonics, covered and surrounded by the seven seas, millennia after millennia in zones of darkness and pressure. He dimly remembers the Mariana Trench in the Pacific from a high-school science class. He doubts that kids today learn about the Mariana Trench, the deepest darkness on Earth. But he does not remember much about it himself, except that the ancient Greeks believed in a bottomless abyss. He reads more descriptions of the ocean layers and, inspired by the idea of layers, he calls room service and requests blinis with raspberry syrup but he has to settle for a B.L.T., extra mayo on the side.

As he eats he reads on until he imagines himself sinking down through the named under-ocean zones and layers: the epipelagic sunlight zone with its wind-mixing waves and seasons, then a slow descent through the mesopelagic twilight zone, where seasons, depths, and fainting measures of sunlight juggle up and down. He tumbles ever downward, through the bathypelagic zone of rich darkness and constant cold, luminescent animals stitching through unending density. Even deeper is the abyssopelagic zone, where the temperature hovers just above freezing, the darkness pitch-black under the crushing pressure of miles of water, which he can hardly grasp. But Arwen’s imagination curls into a knot when he comes to the screamingly deepest and coldest waters of the hadal zone, with the vast brain-flattening pressure of eight tons per square inch. Even in that intense place there is life: snailfish and grenadiers with tapering tails. He wonders how the benthic grenadiers can swim blithely in such deadly pressures. He thinks of last year’s headlines about a submersible implosion in a zone far less terrible than the hadopelagic. Then he reads that the lungless grenadiers can manage very well, that they have evolved in the deeps and are as comfortable there as humans are under the weight of their oxygenated atmosphere. Arwen’s last thought before sleep is that he is in a twisting cyclonic fall down through the trench to become a compressed speck of matter. It feels good.

There is no point in trying to guess why he was summoned to a non-meeting with Rodrig Cushion in Chicago, the HQ of Heritage House Holidays, and then bounced to New York where Cushion makes a delighted fuss over Arwen’s photograph of the umbrella stand and the harpoons. “It’s very exceptional,” he says. While Arwen stands waiting, Cushion gets the old-woman harpoon owner on the phone and after six or seven minutes of cajoling and promises—“It’s perfect for discerning renters”—he closes the deal, says the papers will be delivered to her by courier within days. He winks at Arwen as if to say, “That’s how I do it.”

It is the same way that Cushion has got a hold on Carolla and wormed himself deep into their lives. Arwen finds it easier to go along with the man’s endless brainstorms. Once in a while he submerges the unpleasant thought that Cushion is like Carolla in temperament and ambition. He believes Cushion has roped in Carolla in order to get access to White Chimneys, a house that Cushion says, using his favorite phrase, is “perfect for discerning renters.” “Discerning” means ultra-rich. It isn’t clear to him why Carolla has been so happy to go into business with Rodrig Cushion. The real-estate mogul boomerangs among his offices in New York, Chicago, Buenos Aires, Lisbon, Wellington, and London. Despite Cushion’s efforts to pull off a smart-casual look with his Cuban-collar shirts and unstructured mohair blazers, Arwen still sees a dangerous and wily hitchhiker, and knows that whoever makes a bargain with him makes a bargain they will regret.

Before he gets home and goes to his Friday appointment with William Honor a viper twines around Arwen. He suspects something is wrong at the time of the aborted Chicago meeting with Cushion. He has a feeling that Carolla knows what Cushion is up to, a feeling that her sympathies and love have diverted to Cushion, who sends Arwen on useless errands in order to weasel his way into Carolla’s affection. Arwen thinks that while he was in Iceland and then Chicago Cushion was at White Chimneys. He becomes wary and watches and listens. He is afraid, but when he calls Albert Bebby and tries to talk to him about his suspicions he gets Bebby’s stock answer: that those are just the normal ups and downs of marriage, that it is just like the weather, just like the roasting-hot summers and snowless winters, just like the rising sea level and other climate-scare bugaboos that will infallibly straighten out “in time”—a time unspecified.

On Thursday, the day before Arwen is due to meet again with William Honor, as he prepares to wrap some potato peelings in newspaper for the compost heap he finds himself reading the page. It is the local paper, which specializes in long and florid obituaries about kindly oldsters who gave their lives and energies to the towns they lived in, and there it is, a quarter-page black-bordered essay, “William Hasty Honor, Well-Loved Local Historian Passes.” There is a photograph of the African American Sunday painter. Arwen goes cold. He will never find out who wrote the chiselled verse or why it was at White Chimneys.

A few weeks later Cushion sends him on another trip, this time to Vancouver, where an old yacht has been hauled up on land, rejuvenated, and refitted as an eighteenth-century nautical-themed dwelling. The charming space is so small that only a thin couple or a single person can stay in it without cramping, but he guesses that Cushion will add it to his stable. Even by the shore it is furnace hot. There are no cooling sea breezes, and the air-conditioning in the plane on the flight back is no match for two hundred sweating bodies. The view out the window is of swaths of wildfire smoke and flickering red outbursts.

It is late when he reaches White Chimneys. There is a full moon and its light lies on the old house like boiled icing; the two white chimneys show like plastic-wrapped boxes. It is still hot and humid. In the carriage house Carolla is asleep. He leaves her undisturbed and settles down on the kitchen sofa. Too hot to sleep he watches the moonlight crawl across the wall until he somehow dozes, awakens, dozes. He is up before Carolla, before the heat of the day can sink its fangs in; he makes coffee and takes it outside to look over his half-finished garden and plan the next work area. He will sit on the teak bench and make a few notes, so he brings his notebook. As he rounds the corner of the house he sees that the half-finished garden is gone; utterly gone. A large bulldozer sits near the woods. Where once the new path wound, where once the fern garden was just beginning to feel at home, where once the water-feature crocodile howled, all is raw earth. And in the distance near the woods there is a heap of soil and rocks, wrought iron, and one of the Maxfield Parish benches upside down and splintered, a section of the crocodile’s jaw like a giant comb thrusting up. He walks over to the pile and picks up a piece of broken stone that says “nothi.” He rushes back into the carriage house and up the stairs and wakes Carolla.

“What have you done to my garden?” He—who is almost never angry—is afire, bursting with flame.

“Calm down,” she says. “You’ll have a stroke. And it is not your garden. Rodrig and I decided that a lawn would be better—more historical. That’s what they had in the old days—a really big lawn. With sheep. As soon as the grass comes up I will get two sheep.”

They quarrel loudly and dangerously for an hour, the worst argument they have ever had, Carolla aggressive with the rage of the guilty, Arwen trembling with the fury of betrayal. He wants to wound her and he has two arrows: “I always wanted kids,” he shouts. And then, waspishly, “And the white chimneys were a secret sign that meant that loyalists to King George lived there. Not Colonial revolutionaries!”

“Well, aren’t you the fountain of information,” she sneers. She ignores the remark about wanting kids and hones in on the white chimneys. “I knew that. But that is not what people want. They want to believe in good-looking brave patriots fighting for democracy and freedom. Nobody wants to see a house because English loyalists lived in it.” She tells him off. In the end she tells him to get out.

“I intend to be with Rodrig. We understand things the same way. And we never argue or fight. You can clear out right now. I have had enough. This is legally my property and I have the right to have a big lawn if I so choose. And I do so choose.” Her face is scarlet; he is shaking. He looks around. Once again it is a hot day, every day will be another hot day. He is furious at Carolla and Cushion, especially Cushion—an incendiary deep red anger. If Cushion were to suddenly appear, he would tear his head off. But this doesn’t happen.

He has not unpacked his suitcase and now he throws it in the too warm car. He knows he should react in the traditional way so often seen on television—pound on the steering wheel and shout, “ Fuck! Fuck! ” He hits the steering wheel hard three times. His hands hurt. He says “fuck” in a low voice and turns on the ignition, drives east to a cliff-top path overlooking the ocean. Even there the sun is brutal and hot. There is no sea breeze, just the stench of rotting seaweed. There is a sun-faded plastic bench. He sits on it until it’s almost dark, watching the glitter of the sea, the curling foam that hides the immensely deep and lightless future. His skin feels hot and sore. It comes to him that the hadal zone is more extensive than any oceanographer imagines. Then he drives to Bebby’s place and the old man lets him in. They don’t say anything to each other. One look at Arwen and Bebby can see he is somehow wounded.

Arwen is still awake the next morning in Daniel’s room after a sleepless night. He can hear Bebby downstairs, talking on the phone, coughing and choking. He dresses carefully, his maroon arms and face painfully tender and goes downstairs to talk to Bebby, to get help figuring out what to do. Bebby is sitting at the table, fiery-eyed and crying. His phone lies to one side. He looks at Arwen, tries to speak and cannot. Nor can Arwen speak. It takes a long time before either can say anything clearly, before either knows for sure what is wrong with the other. Bebby speaks first but with limping slowness for if the words are spoken rapidly they will blur, they will be facile. Bebby drags out the news that Daniel and the veterinarian have been killed by a driverless robotic taxi while crossing a street in California. Daniel is dead and the veterinarian is dead. Arwen is shocked but cannot help thinking it is an ironic death for a man who spent years helping turtles cross the road. He does not say this. He tries to tell Bebby about his sundering from Carolla, but it seems unimportant in comparison with the old man’s loss. He can’t go back upstairs to Daniel’s room because now Bebby is in there, hauling out Daniel’s school sports uniforms and notebooks, weeping, talking to Daniel’s old shirts. Arwen drives back to the bench overlooking the ocean but the sun is too painful and he finds a shaded park and dozes in the car. At dusk he returns to Bebby’s place.

“Can I sleep in the warehouse?” he asks and Bebby nods yes, says he is leaving the next day for Daniel’s funeral in California. Days pass and Bebby returns saying nothing about Daniel and Arwen says almost nothing about Carolla. They follow the old daily work routine though Bebby often goes into the house to be alone with his feelings. He talks softly and often on the phone with someone, not letting Arwen hear.

The months go by, the season shifts with ravaging winds and Old Testament storms and downpours. Before dawn they can feel the oncoming heat. One day when they are setting out the frames and display tables for Bebby’s big spring plant sale, five wild geese fly over in a pitiful semblance of a migratory formation. “Look at that,” Bebby says. “Once we saw hundreds of them—thousands, miles of them—all over the sky.” On Friday he says he is going up north to his property to see if the old shack is still standing, to see if he can use the land for extra nursery stock.

When Bebby comes back from the shack he is lively and purposeful, says, “That whole area up around Gristle Falls is changing. There’s a lot going on—they are making the old woollen mill into apartments. They got a Whisperin’ Smith Steakhouse, a fancy motel. The Turnpike Lodge. Daniel’s old shack is still on the property but it is not what it used to be. Knock me down with a feather. You better come up with me next time and take a look. You won’t believe it. At first I didn’t believe it.”

He disappears into his cluttered “office” complaining about the stacks of paper that rise like flooding water, muttering about hiring a part-time secretary. He says he wants to spend more time “up north.” He somehow has a lot of money. Arwen thinks it might be from Daniel’s life insurance and is surprised when Bebby buys a lime-green electric luxury car. Arwen thinks life is returning to the old boy. He wishes for a similar rejuvenation. He says yes, he will come to the shack with him. He looks forward to a change of scene even if it is only a shack in the woods. He is even looking forward to the steak house.

The next Saturday as Bebby steers his green car through street traffic and onto 93 North he stuns Arwen by saying that Daniel’s shack is now a hospital and rest home for injured turtles, something Daniel started years ago. There is a fancy laboratory in a cinder-block structure put up by volunteer reptile fanciers.

“By God,” he says, “they got more than a hundred turtle patients there right now. They got Daniel’s picture on the wall. They got about six people work there. I never knew nothin’ about it. Him and me never talked too much. They got some old-lady turtle-lover who’s given them enough money to run the clinic for fifty years. It’s called the Daniel Bebby Turtle Refuge. Anyway, I decided to get involved, whatever, legally turn over the property to them. Then it will be the Daniel and Albert Bebby Turtle Refuge. It’s not that good a place for nursery stock anyhow, and I got some ideas for exercise rooms for the turtles that are gettin’ healthy again but still don’t got good muscle tone. You know, rocky climbs and sandpits—build them up.”

Arwen thinks that during all the weeks of adjusting to Daniel’s death Bebby has been talking with the turtle people. Making plans. But when Bebby makes the old familiar turn onto 95 South, Arwen understands that they are going not to the turtle hospice but to White Chimneys. He doesn’t say a word.

They drive into the web of narrow roads that make it always possible to get anywhere by eleven different routes. There is no public transport in darkest New England—only cars and more cars. For travellers the illusion that they are entering the wooded past of ancient forest is spoiled by the sudden appearance around a twisted bend of a Whisperin’ Smith Steakhouse backed up against the trees or a pizza joint beside a pathetic two-hundred-year-old house clad in age-stained chestnut siding. Arwen can almost feel the suction of charring beef fat and pineapple pizzas pulling drivers in. The railroads of an earlier century are now hiking or bicycle trails, their stations are antique shops, map stores, or coffee kiosks.

Up the long hill and around a bend that almost touches itself White Chimneys comes into view, as harsh and obdurate as ever. Bebby pulls up in front of the carriage house. He says, “I guess I’ll wait here a while and catch up on my phone messages. Take your time. Then we will go to the turtles.”

Arwen opens the door into the great kitchen. The sunlight streams in like languid honey, drenches Carolla, who stands in it, her wiry hair ablaze, not surprised to see him. He inhales the rich aroma of Maui Mokka. They look at each other. Carolla gestures at a box filled with pale torpedoes and says, “Fresh Belgian endives.”

“They are beautiful,” he says truthfully. “The best. What will you do with them?” He thinks, you—and the hitchhiker.

“There are a thousand ways. Help me decide. Please, will you stay?”

“What about— him ?” He doesn’t have to say the name.

“Forget him . He cannot boil an egg without burning it. He is a crap person with an air-conditioning obsession. He says White Chimneys is no good unless it gets the air-conditioning. And do you know who owns that big air-conditioning company he recommended—Kool Haus Air Wizards? He admitted it. That’s the business he started out with before he thought of Heritage Homes.”

“My God,” Arwen says, thinking that “Air-Conditioning Huckster” fits Rodrig Cushion’s personality like a banana skin fits a banana. He opens his arms to Carolla, but she does not rush to him. She wants to talk.

She races on, detailing Cushion’s evil ways. “Anyway—he is gone, gone, gone. And I am fired and you are fired and White Chimneys is no longer a Heritage Homes property. In fact, there is no more Heritage Homes—he has a new setup. Dark Adventures, which is tourism in places where bad things have happened—true crime, serial-killer childhood homes, assassination sites, K.K.K. hanging trees, plane crashes, Auschwitz, Chernobyl. He says White Chimneys can be on this list as a spy headquarters. I say no. In fact, I intend to sell it.”

She looks at him in their old wordless communication that says what words cannot. It is as if they have never been apart. Almost.

My little grenadier, he thinks, stepping closer to her sunlit presence. She rushes at him as though angry, but he is familiar with this angular approach; she has always hurled herself into intimacy. Holding her, he knows that even in the most profound ocean depths there is life, knows he is loved again—at least for the moment. But he is afraid and the wound of the destroyed garden still aches. He has to say something.

“I can’t stay right now. I promised Bebby I’d go with him up to Daniel’s old shack. I got to go with Bebby. But I will come back. I will.”

She gives him a look and says nothing. They hear Bebby out on the mica-flecked driveway toot his horn and Arwen turns toward the door.

Carolla says, “I’ll walk out with you. You know, we’ve been talking on the phone for weeks, me and Mr. Bebby, working out how to get you here. And now I will finally meet him.”

“You got it,” he says joyfully, puts his arm around her shoulders and they walk out together.

Two years later Arwen works for a local organic-fruit-preserves company. He rarely travels. On Saturday mornings he sits drinking inferior coffee near the kitchen window in his little apartment in the renovated Gristle Falls woollen mill. Often enough he sees a lime-green vehicle like a gleaming lozenge waiting to turn at the light. The sunlight fires up the driver’s wiry dishevelled hair—Mrs. Albert Bebby on her way to the turtle sanctuary. He thinks, Well, we all have places to go. Since his time at White Chimneys he has understood his grievous mistakes, his foolishly hopeful belief in the idea of love. He sees his misjudgments clearly. Carolla, a creature of the sunlit shallows, will never know the deeps; it is he who is the grenadier, the one who can tough it out, the habitué of a Stygian darkness that compresses even time and memory.

But, hey, he does miss the good coffee. ♦

Books & Fiction

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