vintage trek 820

Trek 820 Review – Is This Bike Worth Buying?

The Trek 820 is almost certainly the least expensive “name brand” mountain bike you can buy. With an SRP of $439 (check the Trek site for the latest MSRP ) it hardly seems possible that this bike comes from the same manufacturer that produces some of the most respected – and expensive – mountain bikes on the market. It does, though, and that makes a difference. Trek is a large company that makes lots of bikes. That means they make lots of frames and they order lots of components from some of the biggest names in the industry. That gives them pricing leverage that they pass on to the customer. It would be almost impossible for a smaller or less well-connected company to produce a similar bike at the same price.

You’re also getting the expertise of some of the industry’s top bike designers and builders, and that shows in the design of the frame, the component selection, and the overall value.

The Trek 820 is a basic bike that steps away from many of the trends that define modern mountain bikes. The bike features 26” wheels, not the 27.5” or 29” versions that dominate the industry today. The brakes are old-school rim brakes. The drivetrain has 3 gears in front and 7 in back, and the front fork offers only 3” of travel. Clearly this is not a race ride or a big hit machine, but how does it stack up for its intended purpose: around-town riding and introductory trail rides?

Let’s take a look..

Quick Overview: What I Think of the Trek 820

For older riders (like me) who took up mountain biking back in the 90s, the Trek 820 has a “blast from the past” feel to it. Back in those days we all rode bikes with rim brakes, short-travel forks, 26” wheels, and steep angles. We had a ton of fun and rode some steep, rough trails. We didn’t feel limited by those bikes, because there wasn’t anything else. We didn’t know they were supposed to limit us, so they didn’t.

That doesn’t mean that the Trek 820 is an ideal ride for steep, rugged trails. If you can get a modern full suspension slack-angled trail slayer you’ll have a much better tool for that job. But if you don’t happen to have a few thousand dollars ready to pour into a bicycle, you can buy a Trek 820 and have a great around-town ride that can do more on the trail than a lot of riders realize. Those modern trail bikes are great, but don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t ride trails without one.

In short: if I could choose any bike I wanted, I wouldn’t choose a Trek 820. If I had to choose a bike that cost under $450, I probably would choose a Trek 820. It may not be the best bike you can get, but it’s probably the best you can get for $439.99

What You Get

Let’s look at the key components of the Trek 820.

The Trek 820 frame is made of steel. That means three things. It’s heavy, it’s strong, and it’s inexpensive. Because it’s a Trek, it also has a sleek design, impeccable welds, and high-quality finish and paint. The 820 will never be a light bike, but you will not break the frame and you won’t get tired of looking at it. 

The 820 carries a simple coil spring suspension fork from SR Suntour, a leading Japanese manufacturer of low to mid-end suspension. Travel is 75mm (3 inches), very short by today’s standards but enough to suck up the impact of rough roads, curb drops, and small root-and-rock trail chatter. It won’t hold up to big hits, but that’s not what it’s meant to do. It’s sturdy and durable and should deliver solid service for years.

The 820 comes with a Shimano 3×7 drivetrain: 3 gears in the front and 7 in back. The shifters and derailleurs are from the Shimano Tourney series. They are the cheapest drivetrain components Shimano makes, but they are still produced by one of the world’s two premier drivetrain manufacturers. That matters, because Shimano lets its technology trickle-down: as new upgrades are introduced in the premium levels, the old premium features move down to the lower level parts. 

The Tourney drivetrain won’t win you any bling points at the bike shop, but it will get the job done. You’ll have appropriate gears for level ground, moderate climbs, and all but the steepest steep climbs, and you’ll be able to shift smoothly and precisely. You may have a problem if you want to upgrade the drivetrain. Due to compatibility issues, you’d have to replace all the parts simultaneously, potentially an expensive proposition.

Because the Trek 820 is a beginner-oriented bike, I’ll point out that the durability and performance of drivetrain parts depend heavily on good tuning and the use of proper shifting technique. If you buy your bike – any bike – online, be sure that it’s set up by a qualified mechanic. Take the time to learn good shifting technique. Your equipment will perform better and last longer if you use and maintain it well! Many of the complaints you see in online bike reviews are not issues with the bike or its components, but with the way it was assembled and tuned.

The 820 carries Tektro alloy linear-pull rim brakes. These brakes work by clamping two rubber pads onto the rim of the wheel. This is an old-school braking technology that has been largely replaced by disc brakes on more expensive bikes. It still works, and it’s been used successfully for many years. Disc brakes will perform better in very wet or very muddy conditions, but rim brakes will stop you and control your speed very effectively.

You will have to be careful if you want to use another wheel. Mountain bike wheels (of the same size) are often interchangeable, but rim brakes must be used with a compatible rim. Many rims designed for use with disc brakes don’t have a flat surface designed to be gripped by rim brakes.

The 820 carries a basic, solid wheelset that will do its job, in keeping with the overall theme of the bike. The wheel size is 26”: that size is no longer popular but it was the mountain bike standard for decades, and provided solid service to a generation of riders. The Formula hubs are durable and effective. The rims and tires are from Bontrager. Trek has a long-standing relationship with Bontrager, which supplies many of the components for their lower-end bikes. That relationship brings two advantages. Bontrager makes solid, utilitarian parts, and because Trek orders a large number of parts from the company, they get competitive prices, which they pass on to the consumer.

The Bontrager LT3 tires are a compromise. They are knobby enough to give decent grip in moderate trail conditions but don’t have a high enough profile to create massive tire drag on cement. They won’t grip the trail like an aggressively knobby tire would and they won’t roll as smooth and fast on cement as narrow slicks would, but they will give you a solid platform on a wide variety of different surfaces.

Note that the maximum tire width is 2.0”, which may constrain your options if you want to step up to a wider more trail-capable tire down the line.

Other Components  

Trek fills out the 801’s component spec with what you’d expect: solid, reliable parts, primarily from Bontrager. Nothing is high-end, and you won’t see any featherweight titanium bits or elegant hyper-precise CNC machining, but everything there will do its job and hold up to abuse. 

The 820 frame comes with a full range of mounting points for luggage racks and other accessories. This feature is important on an around-town commuter bike: if you’re going to work or running down to the store you may need to carry a light to moderate load, and the racks make that a lot easier. They also make the 820 suitable for use as an entry-level bikepacking bike. The mounted kickstand, rarely included on pure mountain bikes, makes short-term parking easier.

Component Roundup

You won’t find high end parts on the 820. That’s expected: this is a bike designed to be the most affordable name-brand mountain bike on the market. What you will find is an intelligent selection of parts carefully selected to deliver durability and serviceability at the lowest profitable price.  

Let’s rate the 820 component mix on a 1 to 5 scale relative to other bikes in the sub-$700 range.

The components of a bicycle don’t work alone: everything has to fit together and work together to deliver the performance you need. Let’s look at how the total package performs.

Sizing 

The 820 comes in two versions. The 820WSD is five sizes, from XS to XL, and fits riders from 4’6” to 6’8”. The 820 also comes in a version designed for women, the 820WSD, which features a sharply dissenting top tube that provides very low standover height, a very appealing feature for smaller riders, especially less experienced smaller riders. The WSD comes in three sizes: XS, S, and L.

The smaller sizes of the 820 make this bike a great option for younger riders. If you want to buy a good quality bike for a growing child but you don’t want to overspend on a bike that will be outgrown in a year or two, the 820 in S or XS is a great option.

If you’re a beginning rider the whole concept of bike geometry may seem too complex to grasp. Even experienced riders may be confused over the details! To put it very simply, “slack” or “modern” geometry places the front wheel ahead of the handlebars, which adds stability and reduces the tendency to go over the bars on steep descents. This may also cause the front to wander on steep climbs.

“Steep” or “traditional” geometry places the front wheel under the handlebars, which gives stability on smooth roads and steep climbs. It also makes it easier to tip the bike forward on a steep descent, so you’ll need to drop the saddle down and keep your weight well back when the trail turns down.

The Trek 820 is very much in the “traditional” category, which is appropriate to its purpose. That will serve you well on road rides, but if you ride steeper trails you will need to adjust your body position to keep your weight low and back and the downhills. It’s absolutely possible – aggressive riders rode steep-angled bikes for many years – but it might take some effort.

Performance

The quickest way to sum up the Trek 820’s performance is that it rides above its price tag. This is a bike that carries a price tag not much above department store bikes, but has none of the looseness, squeaking, or rattling that so often go with inexpensive bikes. Part of that is because Trek sells through a network of credible dealers with trained mechanics that assemble and tune the bikes they sell. Many department stores or general sporting goods stores sell bikes that are assembled by unqualified staff members, and that often results in poor assembly and tuning, which in turn can create issues with the brakes, drivetrain, and most other parts of the bike.

The 820 is solid. It’s heavy for a hardtail, but that goes with the price: bikers say you can have two of cheap, light, and strong, but never all three. The 820 drops the lightness, but it’s cheap and sturdy, and that’s what you want in an inexpensive bike.

This bike is a hybrid designed to serve two purposes. As an around-town commuter, errand bike, and exercise/recreation tool it would be hard to ask for more. A pure road bike will be faster and more efficient, but the wider tires, wider bars, and more upright riding position of the 820 will feel more secure, stable, and comfortable for beginning riders. The shifting and gear combinations will serve for all but very steep hills, and the entry-level Shimano drivetrain shifts smoothly and easily. The multiple mounting points make it easy to set up a rack system to carry your daily loads. The low-end nature of the bike will not limit you to any appreciable degree in this type of riding, and if you have a chance to ride a more expensive bike you may wonder what makes it worth that price tag.

The limitations of the 820 may be more evident on the trail. You can certainly ride this bike on mountain bike trails, but you will feel the bumps and you will have to learn some basic skills from the start. That’s not a bad thing. Learning to stand up on the pedals, let your knees work as shock absorbers, and move your weight forward for climbs and back for descents is important. Those skills will help you even on a much more sophisticated bike. The limited suspension will force you to pick a line rather than plowing over obstacles and letting your suspension do the work. You won’t be doing jumps or drops, but you wouldn’t expect to on a bike like this.

The Bottom Line

If you haven’t ridden a bike before or if you rode as a child and are getting back on a bike for the first time in a while, the Trek 820 makes a perfect entry point. It’s affordable and you’ll get the kind of quality that will assure that your learning experience is good and your equipment doesn’t hold you back.

If you’ve ridden bikes before and you need a highly affordable bike for daily use and around town and occasional trail rides, the Trek 820 will be one of your top picks. If you’re looking for a stable, secure bike to ride around town, to work, and to school the Trek 820 will be a perfect fit.

If trail riding is your priority and you’re looking for a dedicated mountain bike, you might be better off saving a little more and looking for a bike designed for that purpose. If that’s not realistic from a financial perspective, you can go with the Trek 820 and ride trails with it. You’ll just need to understand the limitations of your equipment and work within them, leaning more on your skills than on your bike.

Trek approaches their low-end bikes with the same care that they put into designing their high-spec packages, and it shows. The Trek 820 is very inexpensive, but it’s intelligently designed and specced, solidly built, and effective. If you’re on a limited budget and you need a working bicycle, it’s a great choice.

Let’s compare the Trek 820 to other name-brand bikes in the sub-$700 range as an overall purchase. Remember that the 820 is in most cases going to be by far the cheapest option in that category. If you compared the 820 to department-store no-brand bikes in its price range and below you’d be looking at a 5 rating right down the line!

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• Cross Country

• All Mountain

• AUS $ NZD $ USD $ CAD $ GBP £ EUR €

Size / 13", 15.5", 17.5", 19.5", 21.5", 17.5"

At a glance

Where to buy.

Specifications

• Frame High tensile steel w/Cro-Moly seat tube
• Wheels Alloy hubs; Matrix 550 rims; 14G spokes
• Wheel Size 26"
• Tires Bontrager Connection Trail, 26x2.0"
• Crank SR XCC-100 48/38/28
• Front Derailleur Shimano C051
• Rear Derailleur Shimano Altus
• Shifters Shimano EF29
• Brakeset Alloy linear pull w/alloy levers
• Handlebar 30mm rise
• Saddle Bontrager Sport
• Seatpost Bontrager
• Stem Bontrager , 25 degree
• Headset Aheadset, semi-cartridge, sealed

Q: Where to buy a 2004 Trek 820?

The 2004 Trek 820 may be purchased directly from Trek .

Q: What size wheels does the 2004 Trek 820 have?

The 2004 Trek 820 has 26" wheels.

Q: What size 2004 Trek 820 should I get?

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1994 Trek 820

• Serial: GS617928
• Manufacturer: Trek
• Name: Trek Mountain Track
• Primary colors: Green
• Frame size: 57CM
• Frame Material: Steel

Distinguishing features

new seat and seat post, after-market handle bars (riser type)

Welcome to the unofficial Vintage-Trek* bicycle web site. This is a noncommercial, just-for-fun, hobbyist site.

The primary purpose of this site is to gather and disseminate information about early lugged, steel-framed road bikes made by the Trek Bicycle Corporation , Waterloo, Wisconsin. In response to popular demand, the site has expanded to include not-so-vintage Trek bikes of all kinds as new as 2012 .

Mountain bikers , and carbon and aluminum aficionados do not despair - the brochure extracts on the site contain a list of specs for all of the bikes Trek produced in that year. Additionally, the table of Trek models by year includes all Trek bikes through 2005.

Other Resources - Specs for all Treks 93 and newer are on the BikePedia.com site. Additionally, specifications and pictures for 2003 and newer Treks are available on the Trekbikes.com web site archives .)

Before this site began, in various bicycle-related Internet discussion forums there were posted questions like:

• How old is my Trek?
• How was it equipped when new?
• What was the original selling price?
• Where was it in the price/quality hierarchy?

The query usually went unanswered. This site is an attempt to provide the information that answers questions such as these.

What Is on This Page?

Introduction | On This Site | Is it a Trek? Determining Year and Model | Collectability | Contributors Comments Appreciated | Contact | About this Site | My Treks

What Is on This Site?

On this site are Trek brochures or catalogs covering the period 1976 to 2012. There also are four early price lists from bike shops in Santa Barbara, CA. The price list and values page also has a list of bike prices when new. This information was provided mostly by visitors to this site. This page also includes suggestions for estimating the current value of a Vintage Trek.

There is a timeline for steel Trek road bikes that often can be used to identify or date a frame. A table of Trek models by year and color includes virtually all Trek bikes from 1976 through 2005.

Serial number information can be found on the serial number page .

Methods of determining the date of manufacture of bicycle components (and often the bikes they are on) are described here .

NOTICE : We are trying to sort out NITTO manufacturer's date codes. See here for details .

Suggestions for buying or selling a vintage Trek are given on the site as well as tips for refurbishing or upgrading your bike. Included is a section on general specifications for vintage Treks.

There also are catalogs from Gary Fisher (1988-2010); Klein (1989-2008), and LeMond (1996-2008) on the site.

Is It a Trek?

It usually is easy to identify a bike frame as a Trek, even if it has been repainted, as virtually all of them have "TREK" conveniently stamped or cast into one or more places on the frame. Possible locations are the top of the seat stays, the seat lug, the bottom bracket, and the top of the fork crown. An exception is the TX900 which has no cast-in "TREK".

Determining the Year and Model of Your Steel Trek

One often has to be a bit of a detective to sort this out.

• If you know the model number, compare the colors of your bike against the Models/Years/Color listing. This works only for Treks from about 1982 onward. The earlier bikes models were available in numerous colors.
• Check the serial number of the frame. If a 7 character alphanumeric, see the results of the Serial Number Decoding Project . If it is 6 digit numeric, in the range 000000 to 270975, go to the serial number page to get the year and model number. If it is 6 digit numeric higher than 270975, the year may be able to be determined from the Table II on the serial number page. Other serial number formats are described on the serial number page .
• Check the description of graphics by year in the timeline to match up your bike. Go to the brochures , the BikePedia.com web site (for 1993 and newer), the Trekbikes.com web site archives (for 2003 and newer) and perhaps the gallery for more detail. For most years, (generally 1981 and newer) color is telling. For many models, two or more colors were available, but only one color is pictured. The other is listed on the model description page or in the separate specifications table. Complicating bike identification by color, Trek occasionally added a bike color after the brochure for that year was made. As they are identified, these additional colors are included in the Models/Year/Colors page. If your frame has been repainted, you may be able to find the original paint inside the bottom bracket shell, seat tube, or head tube. Occasionally, a frame was returned to Trek for repainting. Trek would use the then current colors and graphics, not the original ones. This means that color and graphics can (rarely) be misleading as to year.
• If your bike has a model name or model number, look it up on the Models/Year/Colors table to find the years your bike was sold.
• Compare the components on the bike with those described in the brochures, if you think they may be original. (BTW - This is tedious.) Cranks and brakes (and often seatposts), are more likely to be original than other components. (Note: Trek occasionally changed the components from what were described in the brochures. Improved parts became available during the year or specified parts became unavailable. In the case of unavailable parts, Trek invariably substituted better parts.)
• Date the components on the bike (if you think they are original), guided by the component dates page. Dated components most likely to be original are brakes, handlebars, cranks and seatposts.
• For some years, the model number (in the form xxx) appears on the bike. Easy - even I often get this right.
• If the serial number is a 7 character alphanumeric, see the results of the Serial Number Decoding Project . If the number is a 6 digit numeral, check to see if your serial number is listed on one of the serial number years .
• Racing? Touring? Sport? Measure the chainstay length, from the center of the crank to the center of the rear dropout. A length of 43.5, 44, 44.5, up to 47 cm (the Model 720 and 85 620) typically is a touring model, racing models are shorter at 41 to 41.5 cm or so. Sport versions are somewhere in between, at 43 cm or so.
• Compare the components on the bike (and frame colors on 81 and newer) with those described in the brochures . or in the descriptions on the BikePedia.com (93 and newer) or the Trekbikes.com web site archives (for 2003 and newer) web sites.
• For many models, two colors were available, but only one color is pictured. The other is listed on the model description page or in the separate specifications table.
• Eyelets on dropouts? (for fenders or racks) - typically none on racing models (except for the first 4 or so years), yes on touring models, yes on most sport models.
• Rear derailleur cable routed above or below bottom bracket? See 1982 Timeline page entry.
• Cantilever Brakes? = Touring model. Centerpull Brakes = Touring (early 1982 720/728). Sidepull brakes? Very common. These only rule out models with cantilever and centerpull brakes.
• Fastback seatstays with no TREK stamped on seat lug =TX900. (See Chas. Porter's bike in the gallery .) Also, the TX900 has three holes, of increasing size, in the top of the seat lugs and head lugs.
• A seatpost diameter of 27.4mm indicates a Model 170. The Model TX300 is 26.8mm. All other vintage Treks are 27.2mm.
• See Is it Columbus Tubing?

Collectability of Steel Treks

People often ask about the collectability of old Treks. Here are some general comments from my own observations and from the collected experience of others.

• Lots of steel Trek bikes were made; most are not rare. However, virtually all steel Treks are quality riders and are valued as such. Vintage Treks with upgraded components are more valuable as riders, but this can decrease the value as a collector's item.
• Top level Treks are considerably more collectable than lower level bikes. However, keep in mind that an entry-level Trek is at a mid-level price/value in comparison to the offerings of most other manufacturers.
• Earlier Treks are more valuable as they generally are more rare. Now that the serial numbers are generally understood, one can verify the age of the frame.
• Condition is all important to collectability. A bike with original paint is more desirable (to a collector) than a repainted bike. Additionally, bikes with components as provided by the factory are more desirable to the collector. In the case of bikes originally bought as bare frames, the components should be period correct.
• The early bikes were built with traditional frame building methods and therefore are more desirable to the collector (in my view). This change from traditional methods to more automated methods was fairly gradual from 1976 to 1980, but then increased. Cast one-piece head tube/head lug assemblies appeared on some bikes in 1980 or 81. This began with lower level bikes but extended to mid level bikes later. (A small picture of this headtube/lug device is on page 2 of the 89 catalog .) Cast seat lugs, with sockets for the stays, appeared in about 1984. Artisan frame builders were generally replaced with frame technicians in the early 80s as more automated techniques were developed and employed. These changes did not necessarily reduce the quality of the frames, but did move Trek farther from traditional methods. This did achieve the goal of reducing production costs and helped keep Trek cost competitive (and solvent) in a highly competitive environment.
• Vintage Trek bikes do not (yet) have the cachet of some English or European bikes, which generally have a much longer history. However, during the Vintage-Trek period, the quality of the frame materials, construction methods, and finish are certainly equal or superior to the vast majority of English and European top-level production bikes, and exceed many custom bikes as well.
• The early Trek bikes, up to about 1983, have fender clearance. (The touring bikes beyond 83 all have fender clearance.) If people want a proper wide-tired touring bike, winter bike, or rain bike, all with fender clearance, they must typically buy a modern cyclocross bike or a custom bike. Most other modern road bikes don’t have the clearance (and don't have lugs). This helps keep vintage Treks popular as riders.
• The early bikes, 1976 to about 82, were built using sliver solder, a more costly and desirable method. Many later models were built, at least partially, with sliver as well.
• Ishiwata 022 steel frames were less expensive than Reynolds- or Columbus-tubed frames, but the steel quality was equal to the others. They are often described as “best value”.

Some vintage frame or bike models have special significance; these include the TX900, 720/728, 170, and 520 .

The TX900 was the early top-of-the-line frameset, dating from 1976 to mid 1978. The Columbus tubing, racing geometry, and fastback seat stays were characteristic of this model (not to be confused with the later bikes from the mid-80s having cast socketed seat lugs in fastback form). Another special feature is the three holes, of increasing size, in the top of the seat lugs and head lugs. The unique and distinctive design, and relative rarity, adds to the value of these frames.

The 720/728 touring bikes , dating from 82-85 were (and still are) highly-rated bikes for serious touring. The long chainstays, 47cm, provide heel clearance for the rear panniers, and contribute to a comfortable ride. These frames and bikes are still highly sought after by knowledgeable tourists. A similar steel lugged frame is not currently available except from a custom framemaker. In my opinion, these framesets and bikes will only increase in value over time. The steel racing Treks will never again be used by top racers for racing. However, the 720 will be used (and coveted) by experienced tourists well into the future. Trek made a total of 7929 720 and 728 bikes and frames (number calculated by Mitch Hawker).

(Note: Trek ran out of model numbers; don't confuse these touring 720s with the 1990-1999 Model 720 MultiTrack bikes.)

The Model 170 , arguably Trek’s best steel racing frame, was available during the period 1983 to 1985. They were made with Reynolds 753 tubing. Among their users was the 7-11 Team. Tim Isaac designed the 170. Expert framebuilders John Thompson, Rick Faultersack, and Kelly Gamble built them.

The 520 touring bike first appeared in 1983 and probably has made more trans-America crossings than any other bike model. It still is offered by Trek in steel (although not lugged), which has helped maintain significant model recognition among bicyclists. This longevity and popularity has raised the value of this bike over similarly-priced vintage Treks of the period.

Two parameters are specially important to the 520 over the years: chainstay length (as pointed out by Robert Cooke) and the type of brakes used. Long chainstays are used on touring bikes to provide a more stable, cushioned ride and to provide more room for panniers (saddle bags). Serious touring bikes in the 80s and 90s were equipped with cantilever brakes (the classic center-pull cantilevers). These were considered powerful enough to stop a heavily loaded bike going downhill. The sidepull brakes of the time were considered less capable for such extreme duty. It wasn't until Shimano developed their "V-brake" (known generically as the side-pull cantilever or the direct pull brake) that a viable alternative to the traditional cantilever was available. This new brake was used on the 520 after 1999. The table below shows these two 520 characteristics through time. These data should be of use to people who plan to buy a vintage 520.

Table I - Brake Type and Chainstay Length for Trek Model 520 from 1983 through 2012

The 620 touring bike was offered in 1983, 84, and 85. It was a level above the 520, but because it was short lived and no longer in production, it is not as familiar to potential purchasers. On the used market, this often means less money for an even better bike. Only the 85 model had the extra-long 47cm chainstays, matching those of the 720.

Some Trek models shared the same frame. For example, if you want a 1983 frame with 620 geometry and materials, you can look for a 1983 600, 630, or 640, all of which have the same characteristics as the 620. The geometry and frame materials are normally given in the brochure for that year.

Contributors

Many thanks to the people who have contributed significant information to the site. They are: Tom Adams, , Mark Agree, Don Allgire, Peter Berger, Wayne Bingham, Alan Burnett, Larry Black, Dave Breitlow, Ed Brown, Colin Campbell, Dan Carlsson, Mark Carter, Andrew Chadwick, Chris Clement, Bill Clements, Chris Cleveland, John Colt, Nels Cone, Robert Cooke, Mark Crabtree, Julia DeGrace, Kris Echert, Taryn Echert, Anita Edens, Dave Evans, David Feldman, Ivan Feldman, Erik Frey, Tim Fricker, Cory Fry, Rich Ferguson, Marsha Gill, Don Gillies, Dickey Greer, John Hallows, Lyle Hanson, D. Hansen, Keith Hatfull, Mitch Hawker, Sean Hickey, George Hoechst, Bill Howard, Jim Jack, Jennings Kilgore, Michael Johnson, John Keller, Steve Kurt, Jeff Kwapil, JP Lacy, Kevin Maher, Dave Mann, Steve Mann, Tom Marshall (T-mar), Tom Meara, Michael McCullough, Marty Meison, Lou Miranda, Dale Mizer, Greg Mooncalf, Mike Marro, Kirt Murray, George Nenni, Larry Osborn, Dennis Pieper, Andy Poplawski, Chas. Porter, Tim Rangitsch, Jack Romaine, Michael A. Roberts, Brandon Rouse, Roger Sacilotto, John Satory, Paul Schleck, Travis Sherwood, Dan Shindelar, Bruce Squires, Dave Staublin, Jay St. John, Scott Stulken, Tom Sustarich, Mike Swantak, David Temple, Elisabeth Thomas-Matej, Kevin Tita, Craig Tornga, Kevin Truelove, Mark Wade, Martin Walsh, Leighton Walter, Ben Weiner, Luker White, and Brad Ziegler.

This site would not have been possible without their help and support. I know there will be more to thank in the future.

The list above does not include the many hundreds of other people who have provided a serial number or other smaller contribution to the site. Our hearfelt thanks to these folks as well.

Comments and Information Appreciated

Please send your comments, corrections, and materials! If you have additional information about steel Treks; old brochures, price sheets, or other information, please pass them along. Easiest digital form is probably as .gif files (for graphics) or .jpg files (for photographs) scanned at 150 dpi or more. If you send printed information, it will be scanned and returned to you.

Currently, I am not adding more photos to the Gallery. Now that we have all (or virtually all) of the brochures/catalogs for each year, the Gallery is not as important as it was earlier. My current task is to sort out the many other forms of serial numbers used on Trek bikes throughout the years.

How to Contact Me

Skip Echert - E-mail: [email protected]

About This Site

At a bicycle shop in Santa Barbara, in about 1978, I picked up a Trek brochure which described the "pre owned" frame/bike that I had just purchased. In 2001, I found that brochure in my old papers and was surprised to find two other Trek brochures and four price lists that I had salted away as well. These materials were the genesis of this site, which went online in 2001. The amount of material on the site has grown steadily over time, much of it from the information and documents generously provided by site visitors.

As the site expanded, and visitors could find information to answer their questions, the nature of the questions has evolved. For example, I now get few questions about the early serial numbers (as they now are well documented) but more about the many later ones used by Trek.

The site currently gets 12,000 to 20,000 unique visitors per month. We have received and replied to over 2400 emails. Many of the questions asked and then researched have been the basis for information added to the site.

I have a Trek TX900, originally sold new (frame only) in 1977 to a very accomplished teenager who raced it in and around Santa Barbara, CA. He had equipped it mostly with Campagnolo Nuovo Record parts from 1973 and earlier, a Zeus front hub, a Super Olimpic rear hub, and Cinelli bars and stem. He, or the previous owner, had replaced many of the steel bolts in the components with titanium or aluminum after-market items. I purchased it from him in 1978 for the sum of $375. He was 16 when he sold it, after discovering girls and cars.

A few years ago, I replaced the sew-up rims with clinchers, carefully spread the rear triangle to 126mm and replaced the (then) splitting rear hub with a 6 speed Campagnolo model. At the urging of Don Altman, a bike-savvy friend, I replaced the the Teledyne titanium crank axle (by the way - beautifully crafted) with a stock Campagnolo model. Don knew that many of these aftermarket axles had failed - with painful consequences for the rider. (I was probably perfectly safe, as my horsepower output could never be described as "gear busting"). After making this substitution, I realized the axle had been the cause of wobble in the chainrings. With these changes, the bike now is even a greater joy to ride. Perhaps one day the TX900 will have matching rims, tires, hubs, and brake pads. (Or would that just indicate a lack of imagination on my part?)

In 2002, I bought a 1981 Model 613, in almost new condition, at Recycled Cycles in Seattle. I decided this would be my (almost) modern bike. It is now a 24-speed index shifter, assembled from used and new parts. See this gallery page for details.

In June of 09, John Keller, a major contributor to the site, gave me a 1980 Model 710 frame in excellent condition. Wow! The results of the buildup can be seen on a page in the gallery .

I received the fabulous gift of a 1985 Model 720 frameset in April of 2014. It was from numerous members of the BikeForums.net Classic and Vintage forum. It was offered as a thank you for the Vintage-Trek website. What generous people! Earlier, in corresponding with Dave Vegafria about his 720s, I casually mentioned my long-term hope of getting a 720 one day. Without mentioning anything to me, Dave thought the time could be sooner. He posed the question on the forum and got dozens of offers of support. Since it arrived, I have gathered almost all of the needed components. When finished, it will be in the gallery.

My son has a 1993 Model 8700 Trek carbon-tubed mountain bike. He bought it at a local pawn shop for $100 in 2004. It had been updated with an early suspension fork.

Introduction | On This Site | Identify as a Trek | Determining Year and Model | Collectability Contributors | Comments Appreciated | Contact | About this Site | My Treks

Brochures | Price Lists and Values | Trek History | Trek Timeline | Serial Numbers Component Dates | Gallery | Contact | Buy/Sell Suggestions Refurbish/Upgrade | Bike Resources | Home

*Trek is a trademark of Trek Bicycle Corporation, Waterloo, WI

All copyrights in the TREK brochures, pricelists, owner's manuals and photographs displayed on this website are the sole property of Trek Bicycle Corporation, Waterloo, Wisconsin.

All materials in this site not copyrighted by others are Copyright © 2001-2015 Skip Echert Web Associates , All rights reserved.

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What would you do with this Trek 820 Antelope?

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Donate it to Sally and get a bike worth owning.  

woah, i can barely see you on your high horse up there. i already have a trail bike.  

That's an exact match to my first mountain bike. I was on top of the world when I got it and thought I could ride it anywhere. Took it to Jim Thorpe and came down a super rocky descent and scared the crap out of myself. Great times!  

Single-speed it. I've got an old Bianchi that sold in about the same price bracket that I converted with a tensioner. It rides like a big BMX bike.  

i was working on an 820 yesterday chain hanger, full braze ons, it was a nicely set up ride. a bit of spray lube on the shifter prawls and it returned to life. that one has a tall stem for a tall ride. Everything looks GTG right there.  

put some road slicks on it with some fenders and a rack  

I'd ignore it completely.  

is it really that bad?  

It has the potential to be a nice commuter. I think from the pictures i see eyelets for fenders and racks. I say full on commuter. some decent cross tires, repack, lube everything. I'm beginning to thing i want something with a little wider tire for my ride into and home from work.  

doc Zox said: well 800 series treks are the official VRC forum scapegoat, but they really are nicer bikes than a lot of the pricepoint competition from that era the lugged 950s were nicer groupos and had lugged frames Click to expand...

Well it's a steel frame and fork, and steel frames these days seem to go for a premium. It runs pretty damn smoothly already so I think I'll just put some new grips on it and call it a commuter that I don't need to worry about getting stolen.  

Perfect!  

I love my trek 820 as my commuter! Fittings for a rack, fenders, smooth solid ride. Changed bars to origin 8 citiclasssic to get more upright and some ergon knockoff grips. Not fast at all but my commute of 4.5 miles is very enjoyable👍  

Rule #1: Never zip tie the computer wire to the headtube.  

As a commuter ride it as is. No need to swap bars or tires. Just put a rack on it and go.. Agree with Ed,remove the zip ties on the stem and headtube.  

Well. That's nothing to write home about. Maybe try the Commuter forum.  

I would donate it. The parts aren't work anything and it's too junky to take up space at my pad. No 2nd thoughts or regrets. I would never take possession of a bike of this caliber to begin with. If it gets stolen, someone just did u a favor.  

klasse said: I would donate it. The parts aren't work anything and it's too junky to take up space at my pad. No 2nd thoughts or regrets. I would never take possession of a bike of this caliber to begin with. If it gets stolen, someone just did u a favor. Click to expand...

That old Trek looks like it is in pretty good shape to me. Clean and lube, ride it as is (or sell it on CL for cheap to someone who needs transportation). Not a frame you want to put money into - unless for sentimental reasons (like the 820 was your first MTB or something like that). Ditch the cheesy bike computer, though.  

Nice to see the function specific design chainstays. Thats why I bought a 930 back then. Considered a cannondale but I was leery of their moon phase specific design.  

92gli said: Considered a cannondale but I was leery of their moon phase specific design. Click to expand...

Who cares what the OP is riding? As long as He's out riding something! Many people have started out on Walmart bikes and ended up on high end bikes. And many people have started out on high end bikes only to sell them to me at a very discounted price on Cl.  

But I don't post pictures of my 1964 4d impala on a classic chevy forum unless I was prepared for the donate remarks.A pos is a pos no matter........  

That's true, but, he didn't say "Look at my super rare bike". He just asked a question about it. Totally legit IMHO.  

mk.ultra said: how mad are you that my main bike is a 2011 GT Avalanche 3.0, I have loads of fun on it, and I love it? Click to expand...

What would I do with a peachy 820? Pin and mount it, like a butterfly.  

Camry? Its an AMC Gremlin. A Bridgestone MB-2 is a Camry  

The 800s are barely Corollas. The Trek Camry is the 900 series.  

Gremlins have a following. I think it's like pintos or anything that has a 100c engine.  

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Trek 820 Review: Is It a Good Bike or Waste of Money?

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Trek 820 is the most affordable mountain bike from Trek. The question is:

Is it a good bike? Should you spend your money on it?

Trek 820 is a mountain bike suitable for beginners because it’s affordable yet well-made. This means it has a quality steel frame, Shimano components, and front suspension for absorbing bumps. In addition, it’s available in a step-through option suitable for women.

Below, you will learn more about it, and I will also explain how it differs from more expensive mountain bikes .

Let’s dive in!

Is Trek 820 a Good Bike?

Trek 820 is a good bike considering its price of $499.99 (when writing this review).

For this money, you get:

• An entry-level mountain bike with front fork suspension for absorbing bumps.
• A steel frame with a relaxed geometry for a comfortable riding position.
• Shimano Tourney groupset and Bontrager components.

You don’t have to use it strictly for off-road riding. Many owners also use it for commuting on paved roads.

However, if necessary, you can easily cross unpaved sections full of potholes, rocks, etc. The wide, knobby tires and front suspension will absorb them so you can enjoy a comfortable ride.

Another feature of why Trek 820 is popular is its gear range. Thanks to the 3X chainring and 7spd cassette, you can choose from 21 gears.

Trek 820 is suitable for riders 4’6″ – 6’8″ (137-203 cm) tall and has a weight limit of up to 300 lbs (136 kg).

Pros and Cons of Trek 820

Here I summarized the pros and cons of Trek 820.

Pros of Trek 820

• Quality and sturdy steel frame
• Available for men and women (step-through option)
• Affordable price
• Comfortable geometry, allowing upright riding position
• Suspension fork
• Available in a wide range of sizes
• High weight limit of up to 300 lbs (136 kg)
• Platform pedals included
• Compatible with accessories like racks
• Lifetime warranty and wide distributors (support) network

Cons of Trek 820

• 3X drivetrain (2X and 1X are more popular thanks to their simplicity)
• Limited color selection
• The higher weight of 33.7 lbs (15.3 kg)
• 26-inch wheels

To fully understand the pros and cons, I recommend reading the following section where I compare its features with today’s mountain bikes.

Owner’s Experience with Trek 820

The following part summarizes the experience of the owner of Trek 820, who was kind enough to provide us with pictures and his insights. You can follow him on Instagram @trek_grando .

“It’s a steel frame bike with front suspension great for mild mountain biking. Suspension is definitely on the stiffer side and can bottom out somewhat easily.

My bike is almost entirely stock, minus the front wheel and grips. The saddle is also a factory replacement, and the decals on the front suspension are missing.

The bike and I were hit by a car last year. The front wheel was destroyed, and there were some heavy scratches on the paint. The decals on the fork were torn apart. I was able to hide the blemishes with some touch-up paint.

The bike was serviced after the accident, and only the front wheel and left crank arm needed replacement. So, needless to say, the bike is very robust and strong.

If I had one complaint about the bike, the gearing is far too short, and there are some big jumps between gears. But it’s a low-end bike, so that’s understandable.

Tires handle loose or muddy terrain fine but are very loud and slow on the pavement.

The Trek 820 is a robust, rugged lower-end / entry-level mountain bike. It’s dependable, relatively capable, and very comfortable.

I’d recommend this for someone new to riding, mountain biking specifically. It’s a great way to get out on some trails without breaking the bank. I feel I can take great confidence in knowing it is a solid bike that I won’t have to ever really worry about.”

Main Features of Trek 820

Below, I explain Trek 820’s features and how they compare to more expensive mountain bikes.

Durable Steel Frame

Trek 820 is one of the few mountain bikes based on a steel frame.

Steel is relatively affordable, durable, and stiff but heavy. So, if you don’t care about the bike’s overall weight and durability is your priority, Trek 820 is the bike to buy.

More expensive mountain bikes have aluminum or carbon frames. You can read my article dedicated to bike frame materials , where you learn more about their benefits.

On the other side of the spectrum are aluminum mountain bikes. For example, Trek 3700 and Trek 4300 have an aluminum frame.

Another thing I want to point out is the frame geometry. It’s relatively relaxed, so you will sit in a more upright position, which is suitable for beginners and people with limited flexibility.

26-Inch Wheels

Trek 820 comes with 26-inch wheels. These are more agile, accelerate faster, and feel more responsive than 27.5 or 29-inch wheels.

But, they are not as fast and comfortable as the other two alternatives. On the other hand, 26″ wheels provide better maneuverability.

If you can, I recommend trying them in person so you can feel the riding difference.

Trek 820 is equipped with Shimano Tourney (shifters, derailleurs, cranks, cassette), Bontrager, and other 3rd party components.

Of course, they are low-end because the bike’s price doesn’t allow for more expensive components.

820 also comes with rim brakes. Today’s mountain bikes mostly come with disc brakes. But they are more expensive and also heavier than rim brakes.

Another thing to mention is the width of the handlebar. Trek’s 820 handlebar is only 660-690mm (depending on the bike size). Modern mountain bikes come with 700 to 800mm handlebars.

The current generation of Trek 820 comes with a 3×7spd drivetrain, offering 21 gears.

This range is wide enough for various terrains. Just make sure you avoid cross-chaining. See the following illustration for more info.

The disadvantage of the 3X drivetrains is their complexity, more complicated maintenance, and higher weight.

More expensive mountain bikes come with 2X or 1X drivetrains that are much simpler.

You don’t have to think about the cross-chaining with them as much. They are also lighter and easier to maintain. That’s why they are more popular.

Suspension Fork

Trek 820 comes with a 75mm travel SR Suntour M-3030 fork (unlike the old Trek 800 ).

The travel of forks on entry-level mountain bikes ranges from 50 to 100mm. So, it sits somewhere in the middle.

This travel will absorb some bumps, but it’s not suitable for hard trails, for example.

In other words, it’s less forgiving than mountain bikes with longer travel and higher quality forks (that cost the same as the entire Trek 820).

Remember, SR Suntour M-3030 is one of the cheapest forks on the market. So you shouldn’t expect much from it.

Trek 820 Specifications

Below, I summarize the most important technical specifications. They differ based on the year the bike was produced:

• Frame material: Steel
• Weight: ±33.7 lbs (15.3 kg) depending on frame size
• Wheel size: 26-inch
• Brakes: Rim
• Groupset: Shimano Tourney
• Gears: 3×7spd
• Fork: SR Suntour M-3030 (75mm travel)

What Size of Trek 820 do You Need?

To choose the correct size of Trek 820 (WMN) for your height and inseam, refer to the following Trek 820 sizing charts.

Trek 820 (also available in a step-through option for women ) is a mountain bike worth buying if you are a beginner.

It’s one of the bikes that you can rely on on various terrains. And you don’t have to be afraid of breaking it, thanks to its durable steel frame.

Its main shortcomings include higher weight, limited color selection, and rim brakes.

Trek 820 FAQ

Yes. Trek 820 is a worthy mountain bike for beginners and people who want a reliable commuter bike. It has a durable steel frame and quality components from Shimano, Bontrager, and other brands to last you for years. Its main disadvantages are the higher weight, less effective suspension fork, and rim brakes.

Trek 820 comes in different colors and has a standard frame. 820 WMN is a step-through bike with a women-specific saddle.

Trek 820 weighs ±15.3kg (33.7 lbs). Remember, the weight differs based on its size.

Trek 820 has been in Trek’s lineup since 1987. ( Source )

About The Author

Petr Minarik

2 thoughts on “trek 820 review: is it a good bike or waste of money”.

My Trek 820 was purchased in Riyadh Saudi Arabia and came with 27” wheels. I didn’t know this was not standard. I have ridden my Trek all over Saudi Arabia for 4 years and Have now ridden for 4 years in Florida. It has worked well and now I bought a full suspension Trek Fuel 5. The Trek is a great bike!

Cool, thanks for sharing your experience, Thomas! – Petr

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Trek Vintage Bicycles

Whether you're into riding to work or cycling along mountain trails or around your neighborhood, a bicycle can be a useful mode of travel. These Trek vintage bicycles come in an array of frame sizes, ranging from 18 inches to 24 inches. These trek bicycles were manufactured primarily in the 1980s, although some models were made in the 1990s and 2000s.

• Mountain bike: This is a type of vintage bicycle that is designed for off-road riding along mountain trails or on any type of unpaved road. They consist of large wheels and heavy frames as well as cross-wise handlebars. The gear ratios available with mountain bikes extend from low ratios to high ratios, as you can find single-speed bikes as well as ones with 16 speeds or more.
• Road bike - racing: This type of bicycle is designed for road racing in competitions. They are comprised of light frames and narrow wheels as well as drop handlebars. These vintage bicycles are designed in a way that positions the front and back wheel close to one another.
• Road bike - touring: This is a type of bicycle that is meant for any kind of lengthy travel on the road. They consist of relatively heavy frames and wide wheels.
• Steel: This is a hard metal that oftentimes comes in a gray or bluish-gray color and is comprised of both carbon and iron. It is known as an alloy, which is a combination of at least two metals, and is available in a variety of different types that range from low-background steel and stainless steel to long steel.
• Aluminum: This is a light metal that comes in a silvery-gray color and is typically combined with several other metals such as magnesium in order to create an aluminum alloy. This alloy is then used in the creation of Trek bicycle frames.
• Composite: This involves any type of material that is made from at least two other materials with vastly different chemical or physical properties. When combined, these distinctly different materials lead to the creation of a material that is comprised of characteristics that are unique to the ones found with the initial materials. The composite materials used for the manufacturing of bikes typically consist of carbon fiber.

These vintage bicycles by Trek are available in a wide range of colors, the most prominent of which are red and blue. Some extra color options that you can select include black, gold, green, silver, and yellow. A small selection of these cycles come in multiple colors with combinations like black and yellow, and blue and white.