specialized chisel vs trek roscoe

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The 10 Best Hardtail Mountain Bikes For Ripping Trails and High-Performance

Whether you want a lightweight cross-country rocket or a cheap trail ripper, one of these picks will work for you.

A “hardtail” is a mountain bike with front suspension but no rear suspension. This design can be lighter and less expensive than a mountain bike with rear suspension, as well as simpler to maintain. Think of a hardtail as the workhorse of the mountain bike world.

Sometimes hardtails are simply the best tool for the job, depending on the circumstances. For instance, those just learning to mountain bike may prefer the handling of a hardtail. Kids are often better off with a hardtail for several reasons, particularly the reduced weight. Sometimes the terrain where you ride simply doesn’t warrant a full suspension bike. Or, finally, it might be personal preference drives your desire to ride a hardtail.

Whatever the case, hardtails are alive and well, and we take a closer look at a wide range of bikes to suit your needs from the most basic to advanced racing machines.

Looking for more riding options? Check out our picks for the best electric bikes , folding e-bikes , and commuter bikes .

The Best Hardtail Mountain Bikes

• Best Overall: Specialized Rockhopper Elite 29
• Best Electric Hardtail Mountain Bike: Aventon Ramblas
• Best Trail Hardtail Mountain Bike: Trek Roscoe 7
• Best Hardtail Mountain Bike Deal: Salsa Rangefinder 29 Deore
• Best Cheap Hardtail Mountain Bike: Eastern Alpaka 29

What to Consider in a Hardtail Mountain Bike

Why you can trust us, how we tested hardtail mountain bikes, our full hardtail mountain bike reviews.

If you are looking for the best high-performance mountain bikes (full suspension and hardtail, electric and analog), check out our Bike Awards coverage. You’ll find 11 exceptional, award-winning bikes rigorously vetted by our editorial team.

If you’re in search of an efficient race machine, a carbon fiber hardtail might be the bike for you. Hardtails also make great adventure bikes for bikepacking off-road and other long-distance riding shenanigans. Build a hardtail with a longer-travel fork and wide tires and you’ll have a fun ripper for romping around your local trails —and you’ll save money and weight compared to many full suspension options.

For decades, hardtails have appealed to riders due to the infinite ways you can build them up and for their simplicity. Here’s what you need to know about hardtail mountain bikes.

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You almost always get more bang for your buck with a hardtail. The design allows manufacturers to either reduce the bike’s overall price or include better components than you would find on comparably priced full-suspension rigs.

Hardtail frames lack rear shocks, pivots, linkages, and the associated hardware. Thus, they are generally lighter than comparable full-suspension frames. For riders who climb a lot, the weight saving can make a difference—both physically and mentally. 

Carbon fiber frames have the best strength-to-weight ratio of any material but are typically more expensive than metal-framed bikes. Despite this, there are desirable characteristics in all frame materials.

Wheel Sizes

Hardtails come with many wheel sizes and gearing options. You’ll find wheel sizes of 29- or 27.5-inches, standard tire widths (up to 2.6-inches), plus-size (2.8- to 3-inches), and fat tires (3-inches and wider). Some hardtails will accept different wheel and tire sizes, allowing you to swap out options to suit your riding needs.

Great for Kids and Tweens

The explosive growth of youth cycling programs and NICA (National Interscholastic Cycling Association) racing got a ton of kids onto the trail and needing mountain bikes. With their combination of lightweight, lower cost, and wheel size options, hardtails make ideal bikes for young riders starting out or teens who quickly outgrow bikes.

Maintenance and Durability

Fewer moving parts mean fewer things that could potentially go wrong, and higher-quality parts mean those parts are less likely to need fixing. The simplicity of not having a rear shock and rear suspension system increases the durability of the bike as it requires less maintenance and fewer replacement parts.

Ride Quality

A hardtail can feel more responsive than a dual-suspension bike when pedaling. The lack of rear suspension creates a more efficient-feeling pedaling platform, so acceleration feels more immediate. 

Climbers especially appreciate the extra responsiveness, though you lose some traction (especially under braking) without the rear suspension. Still, for a fast, efficient ride, nothing beats a hardtail.

Find the Right Fork

After the frame, the fork is arguably the most important part of a hardtail's build kit. You’ll find suspension forks with as little as 80mm of travel on some cross-country bikes, while trail or all-mountain hardtails may have forks with 140mm of travel or more. 

Some hardtails still use forks that lack any suspension. These rigid forks are typically the lightest weight and require no maintenance.

Build One Up

Hardtails also make an excellent second, third...or 10th bike to have around—to loan to friends, for when your primary bike is in the shop, or for dabbling into other areas of riding. 

Many brands (particularly small or mid-sized) offer frame-only options that you can build up on your own or with the help of your local shop. Perhaps you have some old parts kicking around and collecting dust. Well, hardtails are a simple and cost-effective way to put those parts to use!

Bicycling has been vetting and reviewing bikes, gear, and accessories for more than 50 years. The bike recommendations here are based on the extensive work of the test team, which includes Deputy Editor Tara Seplavy, Senior Test Editor Matt Phillips, Test Editor Dan Chabonov, and Maintenance Editor Gabe Ortiz. Together, they have more than 60 years of ride-testing experience and insight that they bring to every recommendation they make.

For hardtail mountain bikes, Tara Seplavy oversaw these selections based on the team’s collective testing experience, as well as her own extensive knowledge of the category.

Chris Case has been riding and racing all manner of bikes for over 30 years. His first “real” bikes were mountain bikes; his racing days began on the rooted trails of southern New England. Formerly the managing editor of VeloNews magazine, he now guides gravel cycling and bikepacking tours with his company Alter Exploration . His garage is filled with his family’s precious collection of bikes, neatly organized and maintained for daily riding, racing, and adventures. Follow him on Instagram at @chrisjustincase .

Many of these bikes were tested by Bicycling 's team of gear editors, which mapped out rides featuring most of the trail elements that you’ll likely encounter. Bikes were pushed hard on flow trails, up steep climbs, down pucker-worthy rocky descents, and through rock gardens. Editors rode these bikes on the terrain best suited for each bike, as well as terrain entirely unsuitable, to see how far the limits could be pushed.

The bikes that weren’t ridden by Bicycling ’s editors were carefully chosen based on their value, quality of parts, our experience riding similar models, and how the overall package meets the needs of the intended rider.

We also consulted with hardtail devotees and coaches who work with junior riders to assess the best choices for younger and beginner cyclists.

Specialized Rockhopper Elite 29

The Rockhopper has been a mainstay of Specialized’s product line longer than most mountain bikers have been alive. The brand spent decades perfecting the Rockhopper into the well-rounded mountain bike platform it is today. And that experience—paired with learnings from its World Cup-winning high-end bikes—translates into a refined quality on the trail.

“The Rockhopper Elite climbs efficiently, is quite capable on singletrack, and isn’t too nervous when descending,” said test rider Tara Seplavy, Bicycling ’s deputy editor.

That is to say, it does everything decently—a quality many buyers in this price range want and expect from a mountain bike.

While the Rockhopper’s frame lacks a tapered headtube and thru axle rear end, the bike strikes a modern and lightweight appearance. The frame has routing for a dropper seatpost (if you wish to add one), its cables route internally on the front triangle, and it has rack mounts.

The components on the Rockhopper Elite don’t jump out, but they also don’t let you down. The air-sprung RockShox Judy TK fork does not perform to the level of the higher-end Recon fork model (more flex under braking and harsher riding). But it is easy to set up for different weight riders and has a crown-mounted lockout for pavement sections.

Specialized offers a bevy of Rockhopper models between $650 and $1,400. We consider the Comp ($950), Elite ($1,150), and Expert ($1,300) models most suitable for trail riding. Specialized also has 27.5-inch wheel Rockhopper variants in these models to fit shorter-height riders.

Aventon Ramblas

With its torquey mid-drive motor, name-brand components, and $2,700 price tag, Aventon’s Ramblas hardtail looks to flip the script and change the perception of hardtail e-bikes—and it succeeds.

At the heart of the Ramblas is Aventon’s all-new A100 motor. The mid-drive unit features 250 watts of sustained power/750 watts of peak power and 100 Newton/meters of torque. It is cleanly mounted to the Ramblas’ front triangle, low-slung on the frame but with sufficient clearance for riding over rocks and logs.

“The bike felt comfortable, proportional, and balanced from the first rip around the trailhead,” Seplavy said.

The Ramblas is well-appointed for its price. Overall, the components are well-suited for a trail-use mountain bike—1x12 SRAM Eagle drivetrain, 4-piston SRAM brakes, 35mm stanchion RockShox fork, dropper seatpost, and 2.4-inch-wide tires. They are all underpinnings of a solid mid-range trail bike—and for a $2,700 hardtail e-MTB, these features are unmatched in the market.

“After riding the Ramblas and checking out other hardtail e-MTBs over the past several years, I think Aventon just reset the entire category with this bike,” Seplavy said.

Trek Roscoe 7

There is so much to love about this bike that it’s hard to decide where to start. The 12-speed Shimano Deore drivetrain (with a 30T chainring and 10-51T cassette) provides a massive range, with gearing low enough to ease the pain of climbing steep hills. Its 29-inch wheels (27.5-inch on XS size) carry speed while maintaining maneuverability on technical trails, and the 2.6-inch tubeless-ready tires offer great traction and a plush ride.

The 140mm travel RockShox Recon SL SoloAir fork has plenty of travel for getting rowdy and can be locked out for added efficiency, such as when climbing a paved road. And speaking of rowdy, a dropper post is a very cool addition and adds to the Roscoe's versatility.

Salsa Rangefinder 29 Deore

The Salsa Rangefinder is one of the least expensive bikes in this test and one of the heaviest. Neither significantly takes away from its abilities on the trail.

“I was pleasantly surprised by the Rangefinder’s performance in most situations,” Seplavy said.

The Rangefinder’s extra heft comes from its oversized aluminum frame, heavy 120mm SR Suntour XCM fork, extra-wide range cassette, and 29x2.6-inch Maxxis tires. These parts, though, also make the Salsa more confident and capable on the trail than the bike’s weight might suggest.

On dirt, the Rangefinder lumbers along. It’s also not light or race-oriented. As Seplavy put it: “The Salsa is not a ‘go fast and take chances’ style bike.”

The Rangefinder's slightly upright positioning, steep seat angle, and low gearing allow you to sit and spin up climbs, despite the bike’s weight.

The Rangefinder is capable, though not fully confident when descending. The wide Maxxis Rekon tires and thru axle fork provide extra grip over roots and precision when picking a line through rocky sections of trail. But the Tektro Gemini brakes with 160mm rotors are insufficient at higher speeds or when the gradient pitches steeply downward. The fork’s lack of damping adjustment also made the fork ping-pong off of rocks when they came in quick succession.

Salsa provides options for riders seeking a Shimano-equipped Rangefinder or one with plus-sized wheels. It offers three other Rangefinder models between $900 and $1,500. Each model has 27.5+ or 29-inch wheel variants. There are Shimano Deore 10 -, 11 -, and 12-speed drivetrain Rangefinder models.

Eastern Bikes Alpaka 29

The Alpaka boasts features that try to emulate a high-end experience at an entry-level price. The aluminum frame is paired with a 100mm travel spring coil fork with a mechanical lockout feature. Stopping power comes from 160mm hydraulic disc brakes with adjustable reach levers.

The 9-speed X-Gear drivetrain is compatible with Shimano and SRAM aftermarket parts. But the 11-34-tooth cassette matched with a 32-tooth chainring up front will limit your ability to climb the steepest pitches.

While the bike‘s quick release hubs are not as secure or fashionable as thru axle wheels, they get the job done at the price. And though the Kenda 2.2-inch tires provide ample traction, the frame is designed to accommodate up to 2.4-inch rubber if you need more cushion and grip.

The cockpit comprises Eastern-branded contact points along with a Velo saddle and grips, completing the package with a touch of comfort not often seen at this price.

Giant Talon 29 1

The Giant Talon 1 is the biggest sleeper in our testing. The Talon’s frame doesn’t have an aggressive trail bike silhouette. It does not look oversized and burly. The plain black paint and blue logo also help to subdue the Giant. Appearances and first looks are often deceiving.

“Once on the trail, the Talon 1 surprised me with its capabilities. It rides like a bike that should cost a couple of hundred dollars more,” Seplavy said.

The Giant’s good ride feel comes down to its fork. The house-brand 100mm travel SXC-32-2 RL fork features 32mm aluminum stanchions, an alloy steerer, and an air spring. These shave weight off the bike while improving stiffness and steering precision. The fork’s rebound adjustment and air spring help you tune the fork for your weight and local trails—a big plus for a bike at this price.

The Tektro M275 brakes on the Talon 1, however, were underwhelming. They slowed the bike down but lacked modulation and a good feel at the lever. The Deore 10-speed drivetrain shifted smoothly but was over-geared for steeper hills compared to the other bikes tested.

Giant offers three models in the Talon range, with the Talon 1 as the most expensive and best equipped for trail riding. For a more premium Giant hardtail trail bike, check out the Fathom 29 models . Starting at $1,500, the Fathoms have longer travel forks, tubeless tires, and dropper posts.

Liv Lurra 2 27.5

The Lurra 2 is Liv’s latest creation for the value-minded hardtail fan.

Designed for performance-minded trail riders who want to rip singletrack, the Lurra offers dedicated frame geometry for the XS and S frame sizes which boast 27.5-inch wheels. Up front, the 130mm Giant fork and 2.6-inch Maxxis tubeless tires offer grip and comfort for roots, rocks, and ruts, and the Giant Contact 100mm dropper seatpost is a nice touch, allowing you to get low and ride with more control. Equipped with a Shimano Deore drivetrain and Tektro disc brakes, the pair offer dependability rather than flash.

The Lurra is generously adorned with multiple water bottle mounts: a set underneath the top tube allows for secure mounting of a small gear pack to fill with snacks or tools or other small items, while a trio on the downtube and another set underneath the downtube allow for multiple mounting positions of two water bottles.

Zize Yonder

While most brands make bikes rated for riders up to 200 or 250 pounds, Zize exclusively focuses on bikes for heavyweight riders. With its chromoly frame and fork, heavy-duty wheels, and Clark's hydraulic disc brakes, the Yonder accommodates riders up to 550 pounds.

The Yonder also features a 100mm wide bottom bracket shell and 3-inch wide 26-inch WTB tires for added rider stability. The bike has a dependable Shimano Deore 10-speed drivetrain, but the gear range is not low enough for optimal riding up steep hills. Though the Yonder is expensive, consider this bike if you're a heavier rider looking to get into off-road riding.

Specialized Riprock

The Riprock 24 is an excellent bike for kids who want to take their riding skills off-road. Designed to accommodate riders between 3-foot-11 and 4-foot-8, this bike comes with 24-inch wheels, a 1x9-speed MicroShift group, and hydraulic disc brakes.

While many mountain bikes for kids use a suspension fork, the Riprock 24 features an aluminum rigid fork. Most bikes at this price use heavy suspension forks that don't work for lightweight riders, but the Specialized’s rigid fork saves weight and looks great. This makes the Riprock 24 well-equipped for young riders' trail riding adventures. Offered in four colors, this bike is also available with 20-inch wheels for riders between 3-foot-5 and 4-foot-4.

Cervélo ZHT-5 GX

Yes, you’re reading that right: Cervélo makes mountain bikes. Though the brand may be more famous as the bike sponsor of the Tour de France-winning Visma-Lease a Bike race team, Cervélo has created this podium-worthy ride for ripping on the dirt.

Sporting a 907-gram (claimed) carbon frame, 69-degree head angle, and long reach top tubes, the ZHT-5 is made for speed. This SRAM GX Eagle 12-speed equipped model also comes standard with a 100mm travel RockShox Sid SL Select fork, e.thirteen TRS Race tubeless wheels, and a RaceFace cockpit.

Expert Chris Case On When to Go Full Suspension Versus Hardtail And Whether to Choose Aluminum Or Carbon.

Is full suspension better than a hardtail.

It depends on the application and terrain. Of course, there are certain types of riding when a full suspension bike is going to provide a faster, safer, and more enjoyable experience—for example, on rockier, more technical downhills. 

Conversely, some situations and locations are better suited to hardtails, for instance, in places where non-technical trails are abundant. If bikepacking is your thing, hardtails can be easier to load up with gear since the opening of the main triangle is easier to fill with a frame bag. But that’s not to say a full-suspension rig won’t work for bikepacking.

Much of the time it’s either personal preference or budget.

Aluminum or carbon?

There are pros and cons to every frame material. Carbon is typically lighter, can dampen more vibrations, and so forth, but if you’re hard on your equipment or crash often, the chances of causing irreparable damage to a carbon frame are higher than with metal frames.

Aluminum is often heavier, and some will say it offers a stiffer, less comfortable ride. But when you factor in saddle choice, tire size and pressure, and the comfort of other touchpoints, it’s hard to isolate the variable of the frame as the only factor on how a bike feels.

I prefer riding metal bikes (titanium) because we have enough disposable stuff in this world already. And carbon is ultimately disposable. Eventually, there will come a time when it is either outdated or broken, and you can either dispose of it or hang it on your wall. I look forward to the day when I can give my titanium bike to my daughter for her to ride.

What do the pros ride?

It used to be that XC racers wanted the lightest machine possible, which was often the hardtail model. Now, however, though many of them still care about weight, there are incredibly light full-suspension race bikes, and having suspension is helpful on the manufactured and natural courses that pros tend to race on (at World Cups, for example).

Chris Case, former managing editor of VeloNews magazine, has been riding, racing, and adventuring by bike for nearly 30 years. His cycling pursuits have taken him to destinations across the U.S. and Europe, Taiwan, Costa Rica, Israel, and beyond. He has stood on the podium at several cyclocross national championships, and is a silver medalist at master’s cyclocross worlds. Today he guides adventurous gravel cycling and bikepacking tours through his company, Alter Exploration.

As Deputy Editor, Tara Seplavy leads Bicycling’s product test team; after having previously led product development and sourcing for multiple bike brands, run World Championship winning mountain bike teams, wrenched at renowned bicycle shops in Brooklyn, raced everything from criteriums to downhill, and ridden bikes on six different continents (landing herself in hospital emergency rooms in four countries and counting). Based in Easton, Pennsylvania, Tara spends tons of time on the road and trail testing products. A familiar face at cyclocross races, crits, and bike parks in the Mid Atlantic and New England, on weekends she can often be found racing for the New York City-based CRCA/KruisCX team. When not riding a bike, or talking about them, Tara listens to a lot of ska, punk, and emo music, and consumes too much social media.  

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Specialized Chisel Review | This custom-built Chisel LTD shows just how good alloy can be

The not-so-minor details.

Specialized Chisel LTD

Specialized

https://www.specialized.com/

$1,500 USD (frameset)

- Gorgeous limited edition paint - Impressively lightweight for a non-carbon frame - Smooth ride quality - Responsive, though well balanced handling - Practical frame detailing - Alloy toughness is very appealing

- Cable routing is biased to right hand, rear brake setups - No SRAM UDH - Availability

Wil reviews his (updated) Specialized Chisel LTD

Out of all the high-end carbon superbikes, big travel enduro smashers, and fancy electric mountain bikes we get to ride here at Flow, the Specialized Chisel might seem a little, erm, pedestrian in comparison. So it might seem a little strange that when it came time to build up a new bike for myself, I specifically chose an alloy hardtail. The thing is, I really, really like this bike. And there are a few reasons why. Here I’ll be taking you through the custom build behind my Specialized Chisel LTD, and what I love so much about it.

See our video review of the Specialized Chisel here:

The low weight is fantastic, and being a hardtail it possesses the sort of undiluted responsiveness that full suspension bikes, with their myriad of pivots, bearings and linkages, can only dream about.

Why the Specialized Chisel?

Having decided to move on my much-loved Santa Cruz Blur last year, I’d been eyeing up a new XC bike ever since. A hardtail isn’t exactly the logical choice for our local trails, but I had such a good time ripping around on that stoopid-light Canyon Exceed CFR  that I decided it could actually be a viable option for a personal long-term test bike.

I’m an absolute sucker for the clean lines, low weight and ease of maintenance of a hardtail. The simplicity is really appealing, and so too is the handling. And from the perspective of testing components like wheels, tyres and forks, you don’t get much more high-fidelity feedback than riding a hardtail.

The Specialized Chisel launched in late 2020, gaining attention for its Epic-inspired geometry and the impressive 1,400g claimed frame weight. That is very light, and not far off most carbon frames. It’s a striking example of how alloy tubes can be manipulated and formed into a lightweight structure that flows and curves in a way that we’re more used to seeing from carbon fibre.

Appealing as it was, the Specialized Chisel only launched in Australia with just the single spec option – the $2,700 AUD Comp. I was seriously contemplating buying the complete bike and stripping it down to the frame to build up my own personal ride, until I heard a whisper through the grapevine that Specialized would be releasing a small run of limited edition framesets. A few emails later, and I was very fortunate to put my name down for one before they disappeared forever.

Structurally-speaking, Specialized Chisel LTD is identical to the frame used on the production bikes. Same alloy, same geo, same everything. It’s simply treated to a snazzy limited edition paint job that’s based on one of the four elements. Shown here is the ‘Air’ finish, which almost appears like it’s been anodised.

The build kit

Having arrived as a standalone frame, my Specialized Chisel LTD has sprung to life as a custom-built bike. It was first assembled out of some parts I already had, plus some new bits I sought out specifically for this build. As you’ll see shortly, it’s already evolved quite a bit in the six months I’ve been riding it, and longer term it’ll continue to serve as a rotating roster for various test components.

Currently it’s equipped with a 100mm travel RockShox SID SL Ultimate fork . Originally I had it rolling on Hunt Race XC Wide alloy wheels, though they were switched out for a set of swanky Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT 11 wheels. These are wrapped with a Schwalbe Racing Ralph/Racing Ray combo. The tyres are 2.35in wide and feature snazzy tan sidewalls, with Tyreinvader inserts fitted front and rear.

The groupset is an all-SRAM affair. Initially that consisted of a wireless SRAM GX Eagle AXS drivetrain , though recently I went back to a mechanical XX1 drivetrain in search of some gram reduction. Slowing down the whole show is a set of Level Ultimate brakes .

Up top is the new Bontrager RSL one-piece carbon handlebar and stem, a Specialized Power S-Works saddle and the lightweight BikeYoke Divine SL dropper post .

For all the build details, check out the full spec list at the bottom of the page.

Any setup tricks or sweet details you’re really into?

No real setup tricks, though I will say I’m a big advocate of running tyre inserts on a hardtail. Those Tyreinvaders only weigh 72g each, but they bring a significant degree of rim and pinch-flat protection to the party, allowing you to get away with slightly lower pressures for a smoother ride. I’m currently running 23psi in the front and 25psi in the rear.

I’m still unsure if the rainbow brake hardware is gaudy or classy, but either way I quite like the extra dazzle of colour. The titanium rotor bolts are sweet too, and the machined construction of the WolfTooth ReMote dropper post lever is another personal favourite.

Being someone that works on my own bikes, the threaded bottom bracket shell is a boring but much appreciated detail. I also like that the rear brake hose and cables are only routed internally through the downtube. They’re well managed too, with a big alloy plug down at the BB that keeps them snug and secure.

I also love how smoothly the thru-axle head integrates with the dropouts, and how the Stumpjumper-derived chainstay protector effectively dampens chain-slap. It may  only be an alloy hardtail, but it’s a bloody nice one at that, and one that’s finished to a very high level.

Specialized Chisel weight

In its current guise, my Specialized Chisel LTD weighs 9.88kg. As usual, that’s weighed without pedals and cages, though it does include the two tyre inserts. Without those inserts, weight drops down to 9.73kg.

For my fellow weight weenies out there, here are some of the lightweight highlights from the build;

• Specialized Chisel frame weight – 1,500g (Medium size, including headset cups, hanger & hardware)
• RockShox SID SL Ultimate weight – 1,300g (including Maxle, steerer cut to 165mm)
• Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT 11 weight – 1,575g (including tape & valves)
• Schwalbe Racing Ralph/Ray weight – 699g (Ray) – 720g (Ralph)
• Bontrager RSL handlebar weight – 239g (70mm length x 750mm width)
• BikeYoke Divine SL dropper post weight – 388g (30.9mm diameter)
• Specialized Power S-Works saddle weight – 159g (142mm width)

Without going into ultra-exotica territory, many of those components are indeed towards the lighter end in their respective categories.

However, the Crank Brothers wheels don’t break any records. Still, it’s worth noting that they are built with Industry Nine Hydra hubs, which are relatively heavy. That means most of the mass is concentrated at the centre of the wheelset, with the rims being quite light at a claimed 365-375g each.

If I was really hunting grams though, I could drop over 200g with a set of the Roval Control Carbon wheels that Mick has been testing lately. I quite like how the Crank Brothers wheels ride though, which I’ll touch on in just a bit.

What do you love about this bike?

I love how clean this bike looks. I dig the paint job, which gives the appearance of being airbrushed. There is a logo underneath the downtube, but from the side you can’t see any branding at all.

The low weight is fantastic, and being a hardtail it possesses the sort of undiluted responsiveness that full suspension bikes, with their myriad of pivots, bearings and linkages, can only dream about. Acceleration is addictively quick, aided by the ridiculous 690 engagement points (!) inside the Industry Nine Hydra rear hub.

However, I think the two attributes that have surprised me most about the Specialized Chisel is just how balanced the handling is, and how comfortable it is given there’s no rear shock.

I’ve spent time on the latest Specialized Epic HT, and while that’s up there as one of the lightest and most rapid XC bikes I’ve ever ridden, there’s no getting away from the fact that the carbon frame delivers a somewhat uncompromising ride. Same goes for the Canyon Exceed. In comparison, the Specialized Chisel is decidedly more comfortable, with more give through its slender alloy tubes.

That quality is no doubt enhanced by the Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT 11 wheelset, with the shallow carbon rims helping to dampen high frequency buzz. I’ve ridden a lot of different carbon wheels, and these are up there as some of the smoothest I’ve tested. The slightly narrower rim width (26.5mm front & 24.5mm rear) also gives the tyres a little more spring to their step. Along with the supple tyre casings and inserts, the Chisel is pleasingly adept at rounding off sharper edges on the trail.

While it is very responsive, the use of a 68° head angle and a 44mm fork offset gives it a much calmer temperament compared to the angry race hardtails of old. The 750mm wide bars provide a broad platform up front, and while the dropper only has 80mm of travel, it makes a huge difference for your confidence levels on the descents, while giving you more room to throw the bike around through tight turns.

The RockShox SID SL has terrific small-bump sensitivity for a 100mm fork, but the supportive mid-stroke means it doesn’t dive heavily under hard braking and pronounced weight shifts. Along with the high volume rubber there’s good grip on offer, and minimal pin-balling through rock gardens as a result.

Of course it’s still an XC hardtail, so there’s only so much you can expect when riding much rougher trails. But I’m consistently surprised and impressed with how composed it is on a variety of trail types thanks to the good angles, beautifully refined frame, and considered parts spec.

What’s changed so far?

Compared to the original build, I’ve since upped the front rotor to 180mm for improved braking power, and I also moved from the Syncros Fraser iC SL integrated cockpit to the Bontrager RSL setup. These are slightly wider at 750mm, and I reckon that’s spot-on for XC riding.

I’ve also recently changed to Ergon GA3 grips, which have been an absolute game-changer. It may seem like a mundane component, but grips are one of the most important contact points with your mountain bike, affecting both comfort and control.

To begin with I setup the Specialized Chisel with a pair of ODI F-1 Float grips. These are very light at just 86g for the pair, and the squishy silicone foam offers good comfort when riding dirt roads and gentle singletrack. There’s not a lot of absorption on bigger impacts though, and I was finding my palms were suffering on our local rock-laden trails as a result.

In comparison, the Ergon GA3 grips use a lock-on design and are made with a tacky rubber compound. They get a small flared profile with a mini-wing that provides a bigger platform for your palms, and more support for your wrists. There’s actually a bit of squish and flex to each wing, which improves damping further. You still get a high-traction tread pattern, and because the wing is quite small, your fingers can still wrap around uninterrupted. It’s a really nice balance between support and control that allows you to ride with a more relaxed grip. I also like how rotating the grips can help to fine-tune your riding position over the bars.

What don’t you like about it?

Though the cable routing is well managed, the port for the brake hose is biased for those who run their rear brake on the right side. To suit Aussie and UK riders (and anyone who runs their brake the correct way round), I’d like to see an additional port so I could route the rear brake hose around the head tube for a neater setup.

Speaking of the brakes, it’s worth noting that clearance is a little tight around the rear dropouts. I had originally intended to fit a set of SRAM G2 brakes, but the bulkier 4-piston calliper wouldn’t physically clear the seatstay tube when paired to a 160mm rotor. Same problem with a 4-piston Shimano SLX calliper.

I suspect there’ll be sufficient clearance when using a 180mm adapter and rotor, but I’ve not had a chance to try that out just yet (I settled on fitting the SRAM Level 2-piston brakes with a 160mm rear rotor for this build). And it’s worth noting that the clearance limitation appears to be more of an issue for the Medium and Small-size frames. I have heard from a fellow Chisel owner who is riding a Large size, and has no such clearance issues with using a SRAM G2 brake calliper.

Otherwise the SRAM GX AXS drivetrain has performed well, with the wireless system offering a tidy setup and the 10-52T cassette achieving a huge gear range. The shifting is impressive, with only the lightest of touches required on the paddle to click up or down the cassette. As far as the action of the derailleur and shifter goes, you’re giving up nothing over the more expensive X01 & XX1 AXS versions, albeit with a bit of extra weight.

The AXS derailleurs are quite bulky however, which is especially noticeable when mounted to such a slender bike. And given this is a bike that I’m reaching for in between other test bikes, there have been occasions where I’ve totally forgotten to charge the battery.

Any recent upgrades?

Having put a load of miles put into the existing chain, cassette and chainring (both on the Chisel and two bikes before it), I decided to use a drivetrain refresh to make a couple of key upgrades, with the goal of cracking through the 10kg weight barrier.

For those sensitive to grams, the alloy GX Eagle crankset is quite heavy (633g), and so too is the GX AXS derailleur (464g) and the cassette (455g).

In their place I’ve since fitted a set of XX1 carbon cranks (428g), a XX1 mechanical derailleur (271g) and a X01 Eagle cassette (354g). I chose a slightly smaller 10-50T cassette ratio, and I’ve also fitted a bigger 34T oval chainring up front to give a slightly taller gear, given I’ve been doing quite a lot of long distance XC and gravel riding on this bike.

Along with an XX1 shifter and chain, I managed to drop nearly half a kilo off the complete bike thanks to upgrading from the GX AXS drivetrain (1,893g) to the XX1 drivetrain (1,437g). That’s not an inconsiderable amount of weight.

As for the performance, gear changes are noticeably crisper on the X01 cassette compared to the pinned sprockets of the GX cassette, and previous testing indicates that it lasts considerably longer too.

The shifting is super light thanks to the use of high quality housing with minimal bends throughout the frame. And while it is a total luxury, I must admit that I love the smooth feel of the carbon paddle on the XX1 trigger shifter. You can also adjust the angle of the main paddle, which is a nice touch.

I also like that the derailleur sits closer in to the frame, where it occupies less physical space at the rear of the bike. Chain management is also better – I’ve always found AXS mechs to have a little less clutch tension, resulting in some chain slap. The Chisel is notably quieter with the XX1 mechanical drivetrain.

At the front of the bike, I also recently purchased some Torque Caps for the Industry Nine Hydra hub. These oversized end caps use a 31mm external diameter, compared to the standard 21mm diameter end caps found on most standard thru-axle hubs.

Originally introduced for the RS-1 upside-down fork, these larger end caps are designed specifically to mate up with the oversized dropouts on most modern RockShox forks. Standard hubs will fit fine, but you get a much neater fit from a hub that’s fitted with Torque Caps. Previously I found it slightly annoying how the hub would need to ‘float’ in the dropouts before you could locate the axle through.

As well as making wheel installation a little quicker and easier on the Chisel, the Torque Caps also provide a stiffer interface between the RockShox SID SL fork and the Industry Nine hub. While it’s not exactly a game-changer, it’s still a sweet little upgrade for RockShox users.

And what’s next?

While I really like the shape and feel of the Bontrager RSL bars, the integrated look is perhaps a little too futuristic paired to the slender frame tubing. I’m eager to try out a classic 31.8mm handlebar and stem, which will add grams (aargh!) but will also hopefully improve compliance.

I’m also curious about trying a longer fork. The Specialized Chisel frame is rated for up to 110mm travel, which opens the door to fitting a bigger SID with the 35mm upper tubes, or the latest Fox 34 Step-Cast fork. I’d love to see how that affects the handling, though given how much of a hoot this bike has been so far, it’s got a good vibe about it.

Either way, I’m absolutely frothing on the Chisel. The process of making small, incremental upgrades as part of the custom build is so satisfying, especially when it contributes to such a cohesive and well-rounded ride quality. And while it may not be a complicated bike, that’s exactly what makes it such a pleasure to ride.

Specialized Chisel LTD Specifications

• Frame | Smartweld M5 Alloy
• Fork | RockShox SID SL Ultimate, Charger Race Day Damper, 44mm Offset, 100mm Travel
• Hubs | Industry Nine Hydra, 6-Bolt, 110x15mm Front & 148x12mm Rear
• Rims | Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT 11 Carbon, Internal Width: 26.mm Front & 24.5mm Rear
• Tyres | Schwalbe Racing Ray 2.35in Front & Racing Ralph Rear, Addix Speed Compound, Super Race Casing
• Drivetrain | SRAM XX1 Eagle 1×12 w/XX1 34T Carbon Crankset & 10-50T Cassette
• Brakes | SRAM Level Ultimate, 2-Piston, 180mm Front & 160mm Rear Rotors
• Bar | Bontrager RSL Integrated Carbon Cockpit, 750mm Wide
• Stem | Bontrager RSL Integrated Carbon Cockpit, 70mm Virtual Length
• Grips | Ergon GA3-S
• Seatpost | BikeYoke Divine SL w/Wolf Tooth ReMote, 80mm Travel
• Saddle | Specialized Power S-Works
• Confirmed Weight | 10.34kg

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Trek Roscoe 8 vs Specialized Fuse

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I'm between Trek Roscoe 8 or Specialized Fuse Comp. Both bikes msrp are similar. Any thoughts or recommendations ??? Appreciate your help. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk  

Hub on the Trek is an odd ball isn't it? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk  

I'd go Trek.  

https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/guide/Bikes,3/Jamis/Komodo-A1-27-5,24864#product-specs  

jamis is $250 more than the trek and 11 spd  

Specilized is $150 more and 11 spd as well, forks are better on both, probably won't notice that much in the real world though  

Go with Trek, I also would suggest Salsa Timberjack, shorter rear end and you can go 29 or 27.5+. I got the TJ over both and was super happy. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk  

We have two fuses in the family. They are fun bike. Better than trek model for sure. But id still recommend the orbea over fuse.  

I completely disagree with this ( which is fine we have different opinions) I didn't like the Fuse at all, Trek in my opinion way better..To each is own, ride on..CF.  

Please explain what parts were way better. IYO  

The bike must fit you, me having long legs = one is better, try using them 90 min to find the one that is confortable. If equal choose the shop you have confidence with.  

It really wasn't about components for me as it was about fit, the Fuse just didn't feel right at all (again imo). I am in no way a "big S hater" they make great bikes but for me it's Trek. And I have always been a high end custom boutique bike snob. Long long list of bikes. You really just need to ride both and one of them should just speak to you over all. Good luck.  

Thanks Fred. If the op is still shopping i hope he/she is happy with what gets purchased and lets us know. Post a pic. Every bike is diff and every rider as well. So enjoy shopping and get out riding  

Fuse6F said: Thanks Fred. If the op is still shopping i hope he/she is happy with what gets purchased and lets us know. Post a pic. Every bike is diff and every rider as well. So enjoy shopping and get out riding Click to expand...

As mentioned before, fit and feel are key. Everything else can be upgraded as you go. I would also add the Rocky Mountain Growler to your list (and maybe Cannondale Cujo). I'm currently bike shopping and comparing similar bikes. The mid-tier Growler has a better fork than the Trek or Fuse. You also have the option of jumping to the top-tier and getting the RS Revelation. https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=...p-27.5plus-2019,rockymountain-growler-40-2019  

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Results have arrived, the best trail hardtail: specialized fuse expert 29 vs. trek roscoe 9.

The Specialized Fuse 29 and Trek Roscoe are the two most popular aluminum trail hardtails on the market. We compare the best-selling 2023 Fuse Expert 29 and Roscoe 9 models to see which mountain bike is best.

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Nov 14, 2023

Posted in: Guides

What’s the best mountain bike to get if you’re on a budget? The answer is an affordable and versatile trail hardtail. Trail hardtails are simple (there’s no rear suspension) so they’re cheaper and easier to own and maintain. But with relaxed geometry and a longer travel fork, they can handle a wide range of terrain from fast flow trails to steep and gnarly downhill tracks.  

The two most popular models in the trail hardtail category are the Specialized Fuse Expert 29 and the Trek Roscoe 9. They’re best sellers and they come with decent mid-range components so they won’t need any upgrades. But how do they stack up against one another? We compare these two do-it-all hardtails to find out. 

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1. Specialized Fuse vs. Trek Roscoe: Overview

Both bikes use aluminum frames with threaded bottom brackets, internal cable routing, two bottle cage mounts, and 29” wheels. Both weigh right around 30 pounds, which is fairly standard for entry- to mid-level aluminum hardtails.

Both use TransX dropper seatposts. Other than the drivetrains, the biggest difference between the two bikes is in the forks. The Fuse comes with a 130mm Fox Rhythm 34 while the Roscoe uses a 140mm Fox Rhythm 36. The Fox 34 is lighter because it has thinner 34mm stanchions compared to the Fox 36 which uses 36mm stanchions. On the flip side, the Fox 36 is a bit stiffer and has more travel than the Fox 34, which keeps it a bit more plush feeling and composed on rough terrain. The Fox 36 caters more toward aggressive downhill riding while the Fox 34 is a bit more balanced for all-around trail riding. 

One other feature worth noting is the sliding rear dropouts on the Fuse. This gives riders the option to adjust the chainstay length or set the frame up as a single speed. 

2. Specialized Fuse Expert 29 vs. Trek Roscoe 9: Component Comparison

• Frame: Both frames are nearly identical in terms of construction and quality. I prefer the adjustable rear dropouts of the Fuse, however, because it gives riders more adjustability, plus additional options for fixing backcountry mechanicals or trying a future singlespeed build. Winner: Fuse
• Fork: Both use Fox Rhythm forks with the basic Grip damper. I tend to prefer the stiffer Fox 36 chassis because I ride more rough and technical downhills. Winner: Roscoe
• Drivetrain: SRAM GX vs. Shimano SLX/XT are both super solid and reliable. I’m a SRAM user, and I like that the Fuse has a 52t granny gear (vs. 51t) and it doesn’t use a third-party crankset (the Roscoe uses an e*thirteen crank). Winner: Fuse 
• Brakes: Both bikes have 4-piston brakes for extra stopping power. I personally prefer the feel of SRAM brakes to Shimano. Winner: Fuse
• Wheels: Both bikes use entry-level alloy wheels with 29mm internal rim widths and basic hubs. There’s really nothing to choose between these wheels, but I like that the Bontragers aren’t generic and at least have a model name… Winner: Roscoe
• Dropper: Both bikes use basic TransX droppers with similar travel for the various frame sizes. I’m going to give this to the Roscoe though because it uses the more common 31.6mm size versus the oversized 34.9mm dropper on the Fuse. It will be easier to replace or upgrade in the future. Winner: Roscoe
• Weight: With the stock build, the Roscoe is about a pound lighter. Winner: Roscoe
• Price: The Roscoe retails for $400 less. Winner: Roscoe

Final Score

• Fuse Expert 29: 3
• Roscoe 9: 5

It looks like the Roscoe beats out the Fuse by a couple of points, but keep in mind that these points are mostly based on my personal tastes and are pretty subjective.

Some features may also be more important to some riders than others. For example, the sliding rear dropout is the standout feature of the Fuse to me, and it’s the main reason I’d pick the Fuse, but many other riders likely won’t care about it. 

3.  Specialized Fuse vs. Trek Roscoe: Geometry Comparison

The Fuse and Roscoe use very similar geometry. The biggest difference between the two frames is the head angle. The Roscoe’s 65-degree head angle is 1.5 degrees slacker than the Fuse (which also gives the Roscoe a ~20mm longer wheelbase). What does this mean? In the most basic terms, the Roscoe will feel more stable while the Fuse will feel more agile. Both bikes can handle a very wide range of terrain, but if you’re regularly riding steep and fast downhill trails, the slacker Roscoe will feel a bit more confidence-inspiring. The Fuse, on the other, will feel less sluggish on climbs, and more lively on flat or rolling trails. 

Both bikes have decently steep seat angles to put riders in a good position over the cranks on steep climbs, but the Roscoe’s seat angle is slightly steeper, which some riders might prefer (though I honestly don’t think that 0.7 degrees will make that big of a difference). 

The other notable difference is in the stack height. In every size, the Fuse has 5-10mm less stack height. This can be important to riders who want to run a lower bar height for XC riding. 

Note that the Fuse has a range for chainstay length because of the sliding rear dropouts. It can be adjusted to be both shorter (more agile) and longer (more stable) than the Roscoe. 

Finally, it’s worth noting that the Roscoe is also available in an additional M/L size. This could be good for riders who feel like they are between the medium and large sizes. 

4. Concluding Thoughts 

With a lighter Fox 34 fork and slightly steeper head angle, the Fuse should appeal more to riders who lean more toward the XC side of the riding spectrum. For riders more interested in the enduro and downhill side of the spectrum, the bigger Fox 36 fork and slacker head angle of the Roscoe will be more appealing.

As for value, the Fuse Expert 29 and Roscoe 9 have very comparable specs, so the Roscoe is the better value with a retail price that is $400 less. 

What would I pick? Personally, I’d choose the Fuse. As I’ve already mentioned, I’m a SRAM fan and I like having a sliding rear dropout so I can convert the bike to a singlespeed someday in the future. What would you choose?

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Trek vs Specialized Mountain Bikes Which is Better

This is a tough question, both Trek and Specialized mountain bikes have established themselves and offer great bikes in different categories and price ranges. There are a few differences between Trek and Specialized bikes which come more apparent when looking at the high-end mountain bikes.

Trek vs specialized which is better? There isn’t a clear winner.   Both offer similar bikes and components in the same price range. Trek has a wider variety of bikes to choose from compared to Specialized. At entry-level, you get slightly better parts when you go with Specialized. Both offer competing high-end bikes with slight variations in geometry.

Both brands offer a wide range of mountain bikes like hardtails, full suspension, hybrids, etc. There are a few differences when it comes to design and technology which impact how a bike feels and handles.

Rear-suspension Design

Parts and components, full-suspension, differences between trek and specialized mountain bikes.

Differences are hard to notice when you’re a beginner, more experienced mountain bikers will notice differences even if they are only minor. The differences can be seen in the more expensive line-ups and geometry. Each brand will feel different when riding their mountain bikes and it comes down to personal preference and body type which brand or bike suits you best.

Bike fit is the most important factor when you’re looking for a new MTB. Hardtails of both brands are quite similar but the full suspension mountain bikes have a few differences.

Both brands have women’s mountain bikes, but I won’t be going over these as it’s more of a marketing thing. A woman can perfectly go for a ‘men’s’ mountain bike, there’s no difference honestly.

Trek allows you to build your own bike to your liking. You can select the frame, fork and other parts to have it fully customized. This isn’t offered by Specialized but it doesn’t favor one brand over the other.

There’s a difference in rear suspension design, Trek developed the Full-floater and Active Braking Pivot where Specialized has the Future Shock Rear. Both claim their systems are far superior to their competitors however this remains to be seen. In essence, it comes down to how the bikes deal with rough terrain and bumps and reducing impact.

So let’s look at what Full-Floater means. It’s designed in a way to pedal more efficiently, the shock mount doesn’t increase movement when your pedaling meaning more energy goes into actually paddling than it being wasted by the suspension.

Active Braking Pivot gets rid of the problem of locking the suspension while breaking. The rear suspension keeps working allowing for more chatter and your wheels will skid less, exactly like most modern car braking systems. This is a unique feature only found in Trek bikes.

Future Shock Rear is a lightweight suspension that deals with rough roads. Future shocks are located above the head tube which increases stability and gives the rider more control.

Either way, both suspension systems are perfectly fine, it just depends on what feels more comfortable and you need to decide for yourself.

Both Trek and Specialized use the same materials for their MTB frames depending on the type of bike. Lightweight A1 premium aluminum for the cheaper bikes and FACT carbon fiber for the more expensive and high-end MTB’s. It also depends entirely on how the budget you bring, you can’t compare a cheap Trek to an expensive Specialized MTB.

Both brands offer parts and components from Shimano and SRAM depending on the bike and price. Both manufacturers can be considered equal in quality if they cost the same. Not everybody will agree though.

Types of Mountain Bikes

Both brands offer a variety of mountain bikes for both men and women. The most common mountain bikes can be roughly divided into hardtails (only front suspension) and full suspension bikes. Full suspension is often used for trails, tracks, and downhill, and hardtails are better suited for cross country but are also great for trails.

Not all bikes are designed for trails, some are more suitable for speed, freeride, dirt jumping, etc. Both have rigid fat bikes with oversized tires for dealing with snow, sand, and mud.

If you look at the lower end or entry-level hardtail mountain bikes there isn’t a clear answer of which one is better but riders often favor Specialized . This is where it really comes down to geometry and bike feel.

The best way for you to find out is to go to your local bike shop and see if you can test ride them . After that, you can make a decision based on your personal experience and what feels right to you.

Trek offers a bit more choice when it comes to hardtails compared to Specialized but stay away from the cheapest models (which goes for both brands). These bikes aren’t very responsive and feel a bit uncomfortable riding trails. The bikes can’t take much of a beating and you’ll find yourself replacing parts sooner than later.

Both Specialized and Trek offer full-suspension mountain bikes (FS) starting at around $2,000 all the way up to $10,000. When comparing the two pick bikes in the same price range and look at which components you get.

Full suspensions are expensive mainly because of the materials and technology used. It’s an entirely different experience riding a full suspension and it comes at a price.

Let’s have a look at how much Trek and Specialized bikes cost starting with the entry-level bikes around $700. Specialized entry-level mountain bike costs (29″) $710, Treks entry-level MTB is $760, slightly more expensive.

The specialized bike has better slightly bike parts and the biggest difference is the fork. It has a stiffer, rigid platform which helps to ride with confidence. Treks bike seems less precise and people question the fork they picked.

People that rode both bikes note that shifting is a bit smoother and you get a remote lockout. So when you’re looking at entry-level bikes. Specialized sometimes is a better option . Don’t take my word for it though, try and test the bikes yourself.

I’m not taking deals into consideration that you can get at your local bike shop. I personally never met a Trek or Specialized owner that wasn’t happy with their bike.

Looking at the more expensive bikes, the same applies. You get slightly better components when you buy a Specialized, assuming you compare mountain bikes in the same price range. This probably has to do with Treks’ reputation, they won many competitions and this probably adds up to the price.

In the end, you can’t go wrong with Trek or Specialized, both offer great high-quality bikes. They also both make cheap crappy bikes, I would stay away from them. Here’s a table with bikes in the same price range if you’re looking to compare entry and mid-level hardtail MTB’s.

After researching all the cons and pros of both brands it’s hard to tell which truly is better. It’s such a general question and you really need to look at the individual parts, how it fits, and bike feel. There’s no such thing as ‘best brand’.

Sometimes you’re better off buying a Trek and sometimes you should go for a Specialized. Even when one MTB seems to have better specs it’s still a matter of how the bike feels when you ride it. Also comparing a $400 MTB to a $1000 MTB is just insane.

Also, note that new bikes are introduced every year, technology is moving forward and an MTB introduced 3 years ago usually can’t be compared to the latest model.

My advice is to look at other brands as well, there are so many good brands out there that offer great bikes and parts for a great price. Giant comes to mind if you’re really constrained by your budget they often provide the best bikes at the lowest price. They aren’t as shiny and people generally don’t like their designs but I would seriously consider looking into it.

Remember that both brands come from the same Taiwanese factory!

I always had a thing for cycling sports and love almost anything that involves bikes and boards. I work part-time as a designer in the tech industry and work on my blogs whenever I can.

Based on frame geometry and build specs.

A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

Scalpel HT Carbon 3

Chisel Comp

(descending)

Based on build material and quality level of the frame, fork, wheelset, groupset, suspension system, and more.