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Guide to Cocos (Keeling) Islands

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  • Getting to Cocos (Keeling) Islands
  • When to visit

Discover Australia’s most remote and idyllic outpost, the Cocos (Keeling) Islands.

The Cocos (Keeling) Islands, or simply “Cocos” to locals, are 27 breathtaking islands in an almost perfect circle – only two of which are inhabited. Snorkel, boat, fish, kite surf or dive in the warm, crystal-clear lagoon which forms one of the largest marine sanctuaries in the world. Discover the unique Cocos Malay culture or simply relax on empty white-sand beaches. With just 600 residents and visitors capped at 144 at any time, these tropical islands offer a world away. 

Flights operate from Perth to Cocos (Keeling) Islands two times per week (Tuesday and Friday). The flight duration is under five hours and includes a stop at Christmas Island, perfect for extending your trip. Although a domestic route, the flight to Cocos departs from the T1 International Terminal in Perth, and you'll need photo identification to clear customs.

  • Cocos (Keeling) Islands Airport (CCK) is located on West Island
  • The airport is a short drive from much of the island’s accommodation 

Though West Island is small, consider hiring a car or scooter to explore at your leisure. Bicycles are also available for more active visitors.

For more Cocos (Keeling) Islands travel tips, visit the website .

The Cocos (Keeling) Islands experience a consistent tropical climate year-round. Temperatures rarely drop below 24°C (75°F) even at night, so packing lightweight clothing is a good idea. Rainfall is typically higher between March and July, but this season also brings higher winds perfect for kitesurfing.

  • High season: April to November
  • Low season: February to March
  • Don’t miss: The Hari Raya Puasa (end of Ramadan) celebration on Home Island

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Maxar satellite images show a new road causeway on the southern end of Great Coco island, Myanmar

Military construction on Myanmar’s Great Coco island prompts fears of Chinese involvement

Great Coco lies 55km from India’s Andaman and Nicobar Islands; Beijing has denied it is involved in building a surveillance post there

S ince the early 1990s, Myanmar’s Great Coco – a small, remote island in the Bay of Bengal – has been at the centre of intrigue. Rumour had it that the island was home to a Chinese intelligence facility, a claim lacking hard evidence. Now concerns over the island, and its uses, have re-emerged.

Satellite images taken in January 2023 show telltale signs of military modernisation, according to a report by the thinktank Chatham House. There’s a newly lengthened 2,300-metre runway and radar station, two new hangars, what appears to be an accommodation block, and a new causeway linking to a smaller island. At the tip of the island is evidence of land clearing efforts, suggesting further construction work is to come.

Great Coco is small at 11km in length, but its location is strategically important. It is not only close to the Strait of Malacca, one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes, it also lies 55km from India’s Andaman and Nicobar Islands, which host Indian navy and air force bases.

The newly lengthened airstrip and its expanded facilities on Great Coco Island

Signs of construction have provoked concern that China – which Myanmar has grown increasingly dependent on after the February 2021 coup – could stand to gain from intelligence gathered there, either through espionage or intelligence sharing.

“With the Coco Island developments, India may soon face a new airbase close by in a country increasingly tied to Beijing,” said the report by Chatham House, which analysed satellite images released by Maxar Technologies.

Delhi has reportedly been monitoring developments closely. It recently confronted Myanmar with intelligence showing that Beijing was providing assistance in building a surveillance post on the island, according to Bloomberg. China dismissed the claims.

Authors of the Chatham House report said the Maxar images did not show any specific evidence of Chinese activity on Great Coco. However, since the coup, Myanmar’s military has sought closer ties with Beijing, backing its claim to Taiwan and announcing its support for China’s “global security initiative”.

An aerial shot of Great Coco island, which is 11km long

“Myanmar is desperate, it’s cash-strapped,” said Htwe Htwe Thein, associate professor at Curtin University. “Investment from Beijing is economically helpful – and also on the world stage [Myanmar can flaunt] that such an economic giant and neighbour is still their friend.”

Prior to the coup, in 2020, about 40% of Myanmar’s foreign debt of US$10bn was owed to China, she said, and this had likely increased.

Among China’s investments in Myanmar is a major port at Kyaukphyu, western Myanmar, designed to give China access to the Indian Ocean for the transport of liquified gas and oil, allowing it to become less reliant on shipping resources through the crowded Strait of Malacca.

“With Myanmar reliant on China for international support and economic development, it is extremely likely that the army would share intelligence with Beijing, and support China’s strategic initiatives,” said Jason Tower, Myanmar country director at the United States Institute of Peace.

The construction on Great Coco was provocative, he said, adding that it “presents a significant challenge to regional security, and will likely generate significant tensions between China and India in the Bay of Bengal”.

Analysts believe Myanmar’s military is likely seeking to play India and China off against one another in return for greater economic and diplomatic support.

Great Coco could be used as leverage in negotiations with Delhi, said Damien Symon of the Intel Lab, who co-authored the Chatham House report, adding that the Myanmar military was “well aware of Indian fears relating to Chinese surveillance of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands”.

Zoomed-in view of a radar station on Great Coco island

“Great Coco might be used to extract economic support and maintain engagement by the Modi government with the Tatmadaw [Myanmar junta] in exchange for naval delegation visits by the Indian navy,” Symon said.

India and China, along with Russia, abstained from voting on a UN security council resolution in 2022 that demanded an end to violence in Myanmar and called for the release of political prisoners.

Htwe Htwe Thein said the construction on Great Coco was a further sign that the international community should not ignore the crisis in Myanmar, given the implications for power dynamics in the region. “What’s happening in Myanmar is not isolated,” she said. “It can have a huge impact on neighbouring countries.”

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Cocos Island National Park

Cocos Island National Park: Nestled in the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean, some 330 miles (523 km) off the coast of Costa Rica, Cocos Island National Park, also known as Isla de Coco, emerges as an unrivaled gem. This pristine sanctuary, just 5 degrees north of the equator, holds a unique status, perched a few hundred miles north of the illustrious Galapagos Islands. Established in 1978, the park is a resolute guardian of unparalleled ecological diversity, safeguarding the habitats vital to marine wildlife, particularly pelagic species, including awe-inspiring sharks. Its exceptional significance led to UNESCO's World Heritage Site designation in 1997. Governed by the Costa Rican government, this natural haven expanded its protective embrace in 2011 with the establishment of the Seamounts Marine Management Area, a sprawling sanctuary five times the size of the existing park. Cocos Island, a beacon for scuba diving enthusiasts , has earned its place among the world's premier dive destinations, boasting over 20 mesmerizing dive sites encircling its shores.

One of the best scuba diving destinations in the world, Cocos Island has much to offer in underwater amazement. Rays, dolphins and even whales greet you as you explore the warm waters surrounding the island.

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Cocos island national park: costa rica's subaquatic sanctuary of wonders.

Beneath the Surface: Delve into the depths of the Pacific and uncover the wonders of Cocos Island's underwater realm, a haven where rays, dolphins, and even majestic whales grace your aquatic odyssey. As you explore the warm, azure waters surrounding the island, prepare to be enchanted by a marine ballet of unparalleled splendor. Encompassing Majesty: Cocos Island National Park sprawls across a staggering 199,700 hectares (493,469 acres), a realm that encompasses both the island itself and the protected oceanic expanses that envelop it. This enchanting island spans 2,383 hectares (5,888 acres) and boasts an elevation spectrum ranging from sea level to the majestic summit of Cerro Iglesias, soaring 634 meters above the ocean's surface. The island's interior is a verdant tapestry of mountainous tropical rainforests, adorned with lush ferns, vibrant bromeliads, thriving mosses, and whimsical fungi. Within this landscape, meandering rivers, cascading waterfalls, picturesque valleys, and dramatic cliffs converge in harmonious unity. Marine Marvels: Surrounding this terrestrial Eden lies a marine ecosystem of unparalleled richness, replete with vibrant coral reefs, volcanic tunnels, hidden caves, and the mysteries of the deep. Here, the ocean's symphony is performed by a breathtaking ensemble of diverse species. Yet, with its formidable ocean currents and precipitous drop-offs, Cocos Island's underwater paradise is a realm best explored by experienced divers. Accessible solely via live-aboard boat tours, Cocos Island welcomes those with park ranger permission to explore its captivating shores, though collecting of flora, fauna, or minerals, as well as camping, remains strictly prohibited. Subaqueous Encounters: Underwater enthusiasts will be spellbound by the marine wonders of Cocos Island. Dive into a realm where encounters with white-tip reef sharks and majestic whale sharks are part of the daily spectacle. Over 400 species of coral, an abundance of crustaceans and mollusks, and a mesmerizing array of 300 fish species, including the regal yellowfin tuna and the gentle giant manta ray, coalesce in this mesmerizing aquatic tapestry. Furthermore, the underwater stage sees the grand arrival of humpback whales, pilot whales , playful bottlenose dolphins, and the graceful sea lions. Not to be outdone, hawksbill, green, and olive ridley turtles grace these waters with their presence. Winged Voyagers: Cocos Island's allure extends beyond its aquatic domain, as it beckons avian adventurers with the captivating presence of migratory seabirds. Brown Boobies, Red-footed Boobies, Great Frigatebirds, White Terns, and Brown Noddies elegantly grace the skies. On terra firma, seven species of land birds, including the endemic Cocos Cuckoo, Flycatcher, and Finch—cousins to Darwin's famed finches of the Galapagos—add to the island's ornithological wonder. While two endemic lizard species, an anole and gecko, inhabit the island, amphibians remain elusive. Nonetheless, over 400 species of insects complete this vibrant ecosystem. Cocos Island's wildlife, having evolved in splendid isolation, has given rise to unique endemic species found nowhere else on Earth. A Legacy of Legends: Cocos Island harbors a treasure trove of legends and mysteries, rooted in its captivating history. As the backdrop for documented pirate activity, the island is said to conceal hidden pirate treasure, luring countless adventurers in search of these fabled riches. While small caches have been unearthed, Cocos Island continues to captivate with its enigmatic allure. It is widely believed that Robert Louis Stevenson's "Treasure Island," the desert island in "Robinson Crusoe," and the fictional Isla Nublar in "Jurassic Park" all found inspiration in the mystique of Cocos Island. However, the island faces a pressing challenge in the form of invasive species, such as pigs, goats, and rats, introduced by 18th-century whale hunters. These creatures continue to threaten native species, underscoring the ongoing battle to preserve this ecological jewel.

Cocos Island Facts

Region : Pacific island Closest town : None Size in hectares : 199,700 (493,469 acres) Year established : 1978 Elevation in meters : 0 – 634 (0 – 2,080 feet) Private managed : no Government managed : yes Rangers station : yes Overnight facilities : no Public restrooms : no Entrance fee : $50 Days : daily Hours : 08:00 - 15:30 Hiking trails : no Boat tours : yes Average temperature range in Fahrenheit : 70 - 90 Average yearly precipitation in millimeters : 7,000 Habitat : coral reef, rainforest, beach

From the port of Puntarenas, it is a 32-36 hour boat ride to Cocos Island.  Live-aboard boat tours often incude transport to Puntarenas from your hotel in San Jose.

Weather and packing

The climate of Cocos Island is humid and tropical.  Temperatures remain the same nearly year round with average day time highs in the upper 80s to low 90s and night time lows in the 70s. Average annual rainfall is 700cm/ 275 inches.  Precipitation is high throughout the year, although lower from January through March and slightly lower during late September and October .  Depending on your diving preference, calmer seas and better visibility are found between January and May .  However the rainier months of June through December are a better time to dive with hammerhead sharks.  Annual visitation to Cocos Island is about 1100 people, mainly between March and May.

Visitors should pack a bathing suit, towel, shorts, tee shirts, appropriate shoes, rain gear, sun block, and insect repellent.

Fun Fact:  Due to the abundance of documented Pirate activity in the area, Cocos Island is believed by many to be a place to find pirate treasure.

Latitude: N 5° 31' 40.65" Longitude: W 87° 3' 26.71"

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  • Top 10 Things To Do...

Top 10 Things to Do on Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Relaxing on Direction Island in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Located midway between Australia and Sri Lanka lies the Cocos (Keeling) Islands; a predominantly undiscovered Australian tropical paradise that is all about water-based activities.

It may be remote, but the Cocos (Keeling) Islands archipelago has a lot to offer visitors who make the trek to the middle of the Indian Ocean. Swim at Australia’s best beach, go diving and learn more about the islands’ Cocos Malay population. Keep reading to discover all the the top things to do.

Dive deep with Cocos Dive

Diving is one of the most popular water-based activities on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands . Join the experienced team at Cocos Dive and visit one of their 30 regular dive sites around the islands. Visibility at most dive sites is between 20 and 30 metres, and many have steep drop-offs, so more advanced divers can head deeper underwater. Marine species you can expect to encounter include reef sharks, manta rays, turtles, dolphins, tuna, wrasse and Kat, the islands’ only dugong. Some of the most visited dive sites include Cabbage Patch, Sandshute, Rosewall Coral and Eden.

Beautiful marine life you can spot around the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

There are very few places in the world with better bonefish fly-fishing opportunities than the lagoon on Cocos (Keeling) Islands. Catching a bonefish is seen as the ‘holy grail’ of fly-fishing, and they can reach up to one metre in length. October to March is peak season for fishing on the islands. Other fish you can expect to catch from the beach include mullet and mahi mahi.

Go snorkelling

Snorkelling on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands is great for the whole family, as they are surrounded by shallow and protected waters. A popular snorkelling site is called The Rip, which is located on Direction Island’s southern tip. At low tide, you can also snorkel after walking across to Pulu Maraya from Scout Park on West Island. Snorkelling gear is available for rent from the Cocos Islands Visitor Centre.

Exploring the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Learn more on the Home Island Eco Tour

Home Island is a residential area home to approximately 450 Cocos Malay people. Learn more about their unique culture through a two-hour Home Island Eco Tour . Led by a local guide, during the cultural tour you’ll learn about Cocos Malay traditions, try weaving coconut leaf baskets with the elders, be taught some basic Cocos Malay words and you’ll visit the local museum. The tour runs every Wednesday.

Enjoy a Cocos Island Adventure Tour

Kylie and Ash are the award-winning team behind Cocos Islands Adventure Tours . They do guided motorised outrigger canoe tours and turtle tours of the islands, which include food and drink, as well as snorkelling equipment. There’s also the option to hire kayaks, double kayaks and stand-up paddleboards for self-exploration of the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. Kylie and Ash have a car and minibus available for hire too.

Canoeing around the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

1. Visit The Big Barge Art Centre

Art Gallery

The Big Barge Art Centre is housed inside a local handmade timber barge’s hull, which was a ferry between West and Home Islands in a former life. It took over 10 years to create the space, which is both an art gallery and a working artists’ studio. The Big Barge Art Centre hosts outdoor movie screenings and creative workshops throughout the year. There’s an assortment of artwork displayed in the gallery, including driftwood furniture, acrylic paintings, watercolour prints and flotsam factory jewellery.

Behold Australia’s best beach

Cossies Beach on Direction Island was declared Australia’s Best Beach in 2017. It was named in honour of Sir Peter Cosgrove, Australia’s Governor General. Fortunately, there are ferries between West and Direction Islands twice a week. In 1836, Charles Darwin said the beach was “heavenly,” and it remains the same in this century. Take time to soak in the clear and calm waters, before walking three kilometres (1.9 miles) around Direction Island. Along the way, check out the plaques describing moments in the island’s history.

Relaxing on Direction Island in the Cocos (Keeling) Islands

Indulge in Malay cuisine

Don’t miss indulging in delicious Cocos Malay cuisine while on the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. It’s been said you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover when it comes to the cafe at the airport, as it serves the best nasi goreng. Meanwhile, Dory’s Cafe has the best cup of coffee, and Wick Cafe on West Island and Mesra Kafe on Home Island serve authentic Malay cuisine . Finally, there’s the delicious Malay buffet at Tropika Restaurant at Cocos Beach Resort.

Try kitesurfing

The optimal time for kitesurfing in the islands’ South Lagoon is between May and November. There are a few companies that offer kitesurfing lessons. Firstly, F-one Kiteboarding Pro School has locations on the Gold Coast, Brisbane and the Cocos (Keeling) Islands. They offer a range of lessons with professional instructors. Limitless Kite Tours does one-week kitesurfing trips to the islands, which include accommodation, transport, a tour guide and visit to Direction Island. Zephyr Kite Tours also organises tours that feature 24/7 coaching and lessons, for beginner to advanced kitesurfers.

Kite surfing at sunset

Experience a unique round of golf

The Cocos Islands Golf Club is the only golf course in the world that plays across an international runway. You can see planes take off and land while playing across the nine-hole course. Don’t miss playing a game of Scroungers every Thursday afternoon. The friendly team game is a great way to mingle with locals and you can hire clubs at the golf club — known locally as The Donga.

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Myanmar's Construction on the Coco Islands: Why India and Japan Need to Worry

Democracies must object to Myanmar's cavalier attitude before China gains a foothold in this strategic location on the Coco Islands.

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Myanmar 's recent constructions on Great Coco Island (part of the Coco Islands) present a big challenge to India's policy planners. Great Coco Island is very close to India 's Andaman and Nicobar chain of islands. 

A newly published report by the London-based think-tank Chatham House show "two new hangars, a new causeway and a residential bloc, along with a freshly lengthened 2,300-metre runway and radar station" on Great Coco Island. 

All these could allow military aircraft to land and the military junta (or the Tatmadaw) to spy on Indian military activity in the area. The military junta has been very proactive lately, with the bombing of villages very close to the border with India.

For some time now, these islands have been a source of great conjecture among the strategic community. In the early 1990s, it was thought that the Chinese had established a listening post on the island, though the news could never be confirmed.

These recent satellite images clearly show that Myanmar could soon be able to conduct surveillance operations from Great Coco Island. It only lies 55 km (34 miles) north of India's strategic Andaman and Nicobar Islands. 

The Lure of Chinese Cash

In addition, the Indian Space Research Organization ( ISRO ) regularly conducts satellite and missile tests from Chandipur-on-sea and from Sriharikota. Both are close to the Coco Islands. The bigger worry would be if Beijing were to make use of the intelligence acquired from surveillance flights from Great Coco Island in return for pumping desperately needed cash into Myanmar's crumbling economy.

India's Andaman and Nicobar chain of islands lies at the entrance to the strategically crucial Strait of Malacca. It is e s timated that every year, approximately 90,000 ships pass through the narrow sea lanes of the Malacca Strait. And these ships account for an estimated 40% of global trade. 

In addition, it is important for India's "Act-East Policy," which aims at forging closer bonds between India and countries in Southeast Asia and East Asia . 

In 2018, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi gave an address at the Shangri-La Dialogue in Singapore. He noted that "oceans had an important place in Indian thinking since pre-Vedic times. Thousands of years ago, the Indus Valley Civilisation as well as the Indian peninsula had maritime trade. Oceans and Varuna — the Lord of all Waters — find a prominent place in the world's oldest books — the Vedas."

Coco Islands

Why is it Worrisome for Japan?

For Japan, it is worrisome because it has a Maritime Self-Defense Force ( JMSDF ) base in Djibouti . Any Chinese surveillance from Great Coco Island could put its ships at risk. In addition, Japan is an oil -importing nation and any disruptions in its oil supplies could put its energy security at risk. It is already under pressure in the wake of the Russia-Ukraine war , which has impacted Japanese investments in Russia's oil sector.

In addition, the Chinese side could also use it to threaten Japanese lines of shipping, especially in the case of hostilities over Taiwan . Of late, the saber-rattling from China has increased, particularly since former US House of Representatives Speaker Nancy Pelosi's visited Taiwan in August 2022 and also in the aftermath of Taiwanese President Tsai Ing-wen's recent visit to the US in March 2023.

This is also risky for Japan as these islands could become a part of China's so-called String of Pearls strategy. Beijing has been building a string of bases in the Indian Ocean like Kyaukpyu in Myanmar, Hambantota in Sri Lanka , Gwadar in Pakistan , and others. These could also have dual use, both civilian as well as military, in the future. 

What Options Are Open to India?

New Delhi will have to raise its concerns with Myanmar in no uncertain terms. In case these facilities are used by China to eavesdrop on Indian military activities, it represents a serious threat.

Myanmar is already on the back foot at various international forums due to its actions against the Rohingyas . And it does not behoove well for it to antagonize India, which is an influential power. This year, India is also the Chair of the G20 , the grouping which includes the world's biggest economies. 

In addition, there are reports that once again, insurgents from Northeast India are finding shelter in Myanmar. This is very worrying since the Northeast region is enjoying peace after a long time. It seems that the Generals are playing a very dangerous game and the consequences have to be pointed out to them well in advance. India is heavily involved in the infrastructure sector in Myanmar and should use it as a bargaining chip. 

Meanwhile, China has constructed a pipeline through which oil from the Middle East can be directly offloaded in Kyaukpyu in Myanmar and can be sent inland to Kunming in southern China via Myanmar. In addition, Chinese state-owned firms will be constructing a $7.3 billion USD deep-water port and a $2.7 billion USD industrial area in a special economic zone at Kyaukpyu.

What Lies Ahead?

It is in the interests of both Japan, India, and all democratic countries to ensure there is a concerted response to this cavalier attitude on the part of Myanmar. Safe and secure sea routes are sine qua non for the success of both India's "Act-East Policy" and Japan's Free and Open Indo-Pacific vision.    

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Author: Dr Rupakjyoti Borah Dr Rupakjyoti Borah is a Senior Research Fellow with the Japan Forum for Strategic Studies, Tokyo. The views expressed here are personal. His upcoming book is  "Beyond the BRI: Can India, Japan and the US Provide an Alternate Model of Connectivity" (World Scientific, Singapore).

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Chinese base or wild rumour? The Coco Islands mystery

  • June 5, 2023

Recent construction on militarised islands off Myanmar has sent the media into a tizzy, but despite rampant speculation, experts say it’s unlikely China is behind it, though India may still have cause for concern.

By FRONTIER

Four hundred kilometres adrift of Yangon, featuring white sand beaches and crystal blue water, Great Coco Island looks like a tropical paradise. With a population of less than 2,000 as of 2014, it has the makings of a peaceful tourist haven.

Yet despite boasting a 2.3 kilometre-long runway spanning nearly half the length of the island, civilian visitors have been few and far between. Instead, for the last 30 years, Great Coco – one of five Coco islands – has been at the centre of a flurry of rumours of Chinese military activity.

“Originally it was a penal colony back in the 1960s and at that time it didn’t have any real significance strategically. But since the 1990s it’s become significant because of Chinese interest in the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal and because India has become more assertive,” said Mr Anthony Davis, a security analyst with Janes, a defence intelligence organisation.

For China – which provides vital military support to Myanmar’s junta – a foothold close to the strategic Malacca Strait and Indian military bases would serve its expansionist ambitions. India meanwhile, has clashed with China over disputed border territories in the Himalayas and remains particularly sensitive to signs of Chinese encroachment. 

The island is back in the spotlight following a recent report on new construction activity. Despite rampant speculation, experts say it’s unlikely China is behind the upgrades. But they were unable to explain the strategic relevance of some of the new developments, and said India is right to be wary given the deepening ties between Beijing and the junta.

Dr Andrew Selth, an adjunct professor at Australia’s Griffith University, traced rumours of Chinese designs on Great Coco back to a 1992 Kyodo News Agency article that reported China was building a radar facility, citing diplomatic sources in Beijing.

The rumours persisted until 2005, when India’s naval chief said India had “firm information that there is no listening post, radar or surveillance station belonging to the Chinese o­n Coco Islands”. 

Satellite images published in March by United Kingdom-based think tank Chatham House showed new small-scale construction, triggering a fresh media frenzy. The report dismissed Chinese presence in the Coco Islands as a conspiracy theory and said “available evidence points to the facilities being operated by the Tatmadaw”.

Home to a Tatmadaw naval base, the islands are administered as Cocokyun Township. Amid the National League Democracy’s landslide victories in 2015 and 2020, the township was the only Yangon Region constituency where the military proxy Union Solidarity and Development Party won a seat in the national parliament. Junta leader Senior General Min Aung Hlaing even visited Great Coco Island in April to unveil a “victorious post at the focal point of the Andaman Sea and the Bay of Bengal”.

A clear view of India?

The only solid information to emerge from the islands in the last 30 years has come from satellite images. Those taken by space technology company Maxar Technologies in January and published by Chatham House show new construction and land clearing efforts across Great Coco as well as on Jerry Island to its south.

One of the latest developments is a second aircraft hangar just west of the runway on Great Coco. Mr Damien Symon, a geo-intelligence researcher at Intel Lab and co-author of the Chatham House report, said a first hangar was completed in January this year and groundwork began on the second in July last year. 

Mr Sean O’Connor, a satellite imagery analyst at Janes, said the unfinished hangar appears to be nearly identical to the first.

Based on satellite images taken in May, O’Connor said the completed hangar is approximately 40 metres wide, which could accommodate an aircraft with a 30m wingspan or smaller. That would include most fighter jets, including the Russian Sukhoi Su-30. In July last year, the Myanmar military acquired two Su-30s, which have a wingspan under 15m and can take off and land on a runway less than a kilometre long.

Symon said that construction also began on a causeway connecting Great Coco with the smaller Jerry Island late last year, creating “a newfound vantage point offering an enhanced field of view towards the south”. 

Land clearing also recently began at the southern end of Jerry Island. Maxar satellite images from early May show a new dirt road running the length of the island from the causeway to its southern tip. The images also show a V-shaped land clearing, two round paths and a circular clearing near the southern coast.

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India’s Andaman and Nicobar Islands lie less than 60km away to the south and host an important Indian armed forces command centre. 

“The Andaman and Nicobar Command is the only integrated theatre command where all three forces – the Air Force, the Navy and the Army – are present. There is no equivalent other command. It is a hugely important military strategic post for India,” said Mr Angshuman Choudhury, associate fellow at the Centre for Policy Research in New Delhi.

While Symon surmised that the land clearing on Jerry Island could offer a clear view of the Indian islands, O’Connor isn’t convinced this would be any more advantageous than the radar station completed in 2016 at the southern tip of the runway on Great Coco.

He said the station “is at an altitude of 100m, which is going to give you a better field of view than Jerry Island where the highest altitude is 20m”.

“The distance from the southern end of Jerry Island to the existing radar site is only 8km,” he added. “Why would you want to get five miles closer to the Indians when you have a better field of view from the other radar site?”

Dr Miemie Winn Byrd, a professor at the US Asia Pacific Center for Security Studies who spoke to Frontier as an independent defence scholar, was also bemused.

“They have dwindling resources – they are being sanctioned and their accounts are being closed – and they have to focus on losing on the ground on the mainland,” she said of the Myanmar military. “Why would they spend money they don’t have on improving these things? It doesn’t make strategic sense.”

Indian concerns, Chinese denials

New construction aside, the existing radar station may already be enough of a concern for Delhi. 

Unnamed representatives from the Indian government told Bloomberg in April that they had shared satellite images with their Myanmar counterparts showing Chinese workers helping to construct what looked like a listening post on Great Coco. Likewise, Indian media have alleged that Chinese nationals are “frequently seen ” on the island and the “latest militarisation could pose a significant security challenge to India”.

Myanmar junta spokesperson Brigadier-General Zaw Min Tun told Bloomberg the allegations were “absurd” and denied that India had ever raised the issue with Myanmar.

Choudhury said it is likely that Indian officials were referring to the existing radar station because no other construction on the island resembles a listening post.

“There may have been some kind of Chinese material and Chinese technical assistance in building that post, but it’s impossible to know what kind of information was relayed, if the Chinese are using the station and until when,” he said.

Mr Jason Tower, Myanmar country director at the United States Institute of Peace, said India may feel compelled to take a strong stance because it “doesn’t want to appear weak” in the face of hypothetical Chinese aggression. He also said that while Delhi has “dramatically less leverage than China over the military”, India’s strategy to prevent the Myanmar military from falling “fully within China’s orbit” has been to “court the military anytime it sees the military getting closer to China”.

An Indian foreign ministry press official declined to comment and referred Frontier to an April 6 press briefing that said the government “keeps a close watch on all developments having a bearing on India’s security”.

But O’Connor said it was unlikely that India would be able to come to such conclusions based solely on satellite imagery.

“You can’t just look at a random satellite picture and say we know where these guys came from, unless [the Chinese] have some unique kind of construction equipment and [the Indians] have the resolution to be able to pick out the distinguishing features,” said O’Connor. He added that India would have likely needed to get closer to the island to have detected such activity.

Meanwhile, Beijing and the Myanmar military continue to deny any kind of Chinese activity on the islands.

U Thet Swe, managing director of the junta’s press team, told Frontier that reports of a Chinese military presence on Great Coco are “only rumours and fake news”. He said that, as far as he knows, “there is no construction being carried out by China at this time” and the military “is not doing anything with China to threaten India”.

The Chinese Embassy in Myanmar said in an email to Frontier , “The relevant reports regarding China’s role in the building of Coco Island are merely rumors based on groundless [assumptions].”

A Great Coco resident and shop owner similarly said she has not seen foreign workers. The woman, who asked not to be named, said she is confident there are “no strangers on the island because there are so few people that it would be very noticeable”.

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‘A point of future leverage’

Despite the lack of evidence and denials from Myanmar and China, the frenzy over a potential Chinese intelligence base has not abated – and perhaps for good reason. While the Chatham House report said there is no evidence China is behind the new developments, it did not totally dismiss India’s concerns.

“Myanmar’s junta has few friends left and the few assets it has are increasingly dependent on Chinese capital to sustain. Great Coco is thus potentially a point of future leverage,” the report says. It warns that either through espionage or pressure, Beijing could one day gain access to any intelligence gathered by the Myanmar military, including information that threatens India’s national security.

“For India, Great Coco Island was in the past a place for outlandish theories. It may now become a real point of concern,” the report continues.

Byrd also theorised that if China did gain access to the islands, they could serve as a jumping-off point to the Malacca Strait between peninsular Malaysia and the Indonesian island of Sumatra. Connecting the Indian and Pacific oceans, it’s one of the busiest shipping routes in the world, accounting for approximately 40 percent of global trade. It’s especially important for China, which relies on the strait to receive roughly 60pc of its oil supply.

“For India, it’s always been a concern because if China has the Coco Islands, they can control the Malacca Strait. They can control the world economy and definitely prevent India from being able to use the strait,” said Byrd.

But other experts say the Myanmar military’s long-running distrust of foreign intervention, which partly comes from its foundation story as a force resisting British imperial rule, would make Chinese military presence a non-starter.

“Myanmar’s recent colonial history is such that the Tatmadaw would never allow a foreign actor to base military forces within its borders, let alone lease sections of its territory,” said Symon. “The regime is first and foremost a nationalist movement. The logical conclusion then is that this base is operated by the armed forces of Myanmar.”

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  13. Myanmar's Construction on the Coco Islands: Why India and Japan Need to

    Myanmar's recent constructions on Great Coco Island (part of the Coco Islands) present a big challenge to India's policy planners.Great Coco Island is very close to India's Andaman and Nicobar chain of islands.. A newly published report by the London-based think-tank Chatham House show "two new hangars, a new causeway and a residential bloc, along with a freshly lengthened 2,300-metre runway ...

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