cali colombia trip

Explore Cali

Plan Your Trip to Cali: Best of Cali Tourism

Essential cali.

Cali Is Great For

Cultural tours.

Nature and Wildlife Tours

Eat & drink

Historical Tours

• InterContinental Cali, an IHG Hotel
• Ayenda 1415 Las Vegas Grenada
• Bithotel El Peñon
• Hotel Spiwak Chipichape Cali
• Sonesta Hotel Cali
• Storia D'Amore - Granada
• Cantina La 15 Granada
• Restaurante Platillos Voladores
• Odiseo Bistro
• Hacienda del Bosque
• Bosque El Descanso
• Zoologico de Cali
• Pance River
• Barrio San Antonio
• A day to enjoy nature and have an adventure in the Jordan river
• Cali City Tour - The Best Of Cali In Comfort
• Rivering in the Danube (Alto Anchicayá)
• Street Food Tour
• Tour of Salsa Bars in Cali

Cali, Colombia Travel Guide

Juan Madrigal Photo/Getty Images

Cali is Colombia 's third largest city. Founded in 1536 by Sebastian de Belalcazar, it was a sleepy little mountain town until the sugar and coffee industries brought prosperity to the region. Here's how to plan your next visit.

Cali is located in Colombia’s southwestern region, about 995 meters above sea level. A diverse region of coast, foothills and the Andean cordillera. Cali is a rich archaeological area, as well as culturally diverse.

Colombia’s climate varies little throughout the year. You can expect a hot, humid climate, but there is a drier season called summer, as opposed to the wet season called winter. The Andean highlands, where Cali is located, has two dry seasons, from December to March and again in July and August. Cali's average temperature is 23° C (73.4°F)

Practical Facts

Although the Cali Cartel officially is no longer a threat, drug trafficking still continues. The usual safety measures apply, and it is wise to take caution after dark.

Things to Do and See

• Iglesia de la Merced is a beautiful colonial cathedral on the Plaza Caycedo in the historic district. It is Cali’s oldest church.
• Museo de Arte Colonial , in the monastery adjoining the cathedral, displays mainly colonial religious art.
• Museo Arqueológico displays pre-Colombian pottery and artifacts from the various indigenous groups of the area.
• Museo de Oro exhibits gold items from the Calima culture.
• Museo de Arte Moderno La Tertulia displays modern art, sculpture, and photography.
• Iglesia de San Antonio , located atop a hill near the city center, offers a fine view of Cali.
• Teatro Experimental de Cali (TEC) began Colombia’s national theater.
• Sugar Cane Museum
• Plaza de Toros de Cañaveralejo bullfighting ring
• Zoológico de Cali
• Federico Carlos Lehmann Valencia Natural Science Museum with exhibits of fauna, ethnological samples, and insects of the region.
• Salsotecas abound on the northern side of the river, particularly in the Juanchito suburb. Night tours in Chivas last about five hours and will get you into a number of hot salsa spots.
• The Feria de Cali from December 25 through New Years with parades, bullfights, salsa events, and a beauty contest.
• Monumento de las Tres Cruces are the three crosses on the mountaintop, a pilgrimage during Semana Santa .
• Parque Nacional Farallones de Cali is a mountain park with diverse vegetation and wildlife offers day excursions or hiking to Reserva Natural Hato Viejo where you’ll find lodging, food, and guides to the park.
• Hacienda El Paraiso
• Hacienda Piedechinche
• Two don't miss sights are the archaeological sites of pre-Columbian civilizations at Parque Arqueológico De Tierradentro and Parque Arqueológico De San Agustín. Both are considered sacred sites and contain ancient monuments, statuary, tombs, and burial mounds. Check into the state of the roads from Cali; they can be in poor shape. Whenever you go to Cali, enjoy yourself and Buen Viaje!

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Cali, Colombia

I have two distinctive memories of Cali, Colombia: the warmth of the people I met and the dynamic dance culture that pulsated through the city. It’s a shame that Cali is often skipped over by visitors due to its perceived lack of tourist attractions and unfair reputation as a dangerous place. I loved my time in Cali, and it was the most authentic experience I had in Colombia!

In this guide to Cali, Colombia, I’ll do my best to capture the essence of this vibrant city, as well as provide information that will help you plan your own unforgettable trip here.  For more Colombia travel tips and destination guides, head to my Colombia page .

Table of Contents

Cali, Colombia History

Cali is located in Southwest Colombia and is the third most populated city in the country, after Bogotá and Medellín . If you’re traveling between Colombia and Ecuador you’ll likely pass through Cali since it is located on the Pan American highway.

Cali was founded in 1536 and was historically a hub for agriculture and cattle. Cali controlled Colombia’s only Pacific coast port. The port in combination with the sugar industry attracted many Afro-Caribbeans and other immigrants over the years, contributing to Cali’s unique heritage. In the 1950s and 1960s the flourishing industrial scene attracted additional waves of immigration.

Cali is called the “Capital de la Salsa” and is famous for salsa music and dancing. You’ll find locals dancing a particular style – salsa caleña, characterized by its faster pace and intricate footwork that set it aside from salsa styles elsewhere in the world. Salsa arrived here in the mid-twentieth century, when rhythms from Cuba crossed the Caribbean and reached Cali.

My Trip to Cali, Colombia

Arriving in cali.

I began my journey to Cali from Salento , changing buses in Armenia. On the bus, the passenger in the row next to me was so thrilled about the onboard Wi-Fi that he shared the password with me unprompted. Our journey hit a snag when traffic came to a standstill due to an accident. As we passed through the accident site, all that remained were a fallen motorcycle and a woman sobbing hysterically, sending a chill down my spine.

A few hours later, I arrived in Cali, not knowing what to expect. Initially, I had planned to skip Cali based on misconceptions that there wasn’t much for tourists to do and that it was unsafe (both of which I can now confirm are false). I was also nervous about my hostel, which I had paid only $5 per night for, in contrast to the typical $10-20 range I was accustomed to in Colombia.

My Hostel in Cali, Colombia

My fears dissipated upon arriving at the hostel. I was pleasantly surprised to find it conveniently located near the historic center, including a charming terrace, and offering complimentary dance classes. What struck me even more was the fact that all the foreign guests at the hostel spoke fluent Spanish. Half of them were dating local Colombians, which somewhat explained this. 

Shortly after my arrival, the hostel hosted a salsa class. Although I’ve danced salsa competitively for many years, I never had the chance to learn Cali style (salsa caleña) and was instantly in love. After the class I walked around the city center with a new friend from the hostel, mimicking the locals by grabbing beers and fried street food for the walk. My favorite part of the walk was an enormous trumpet monument; when standing under the bells, you hear different classic salsa songs.

I returned to the hostel to find everyone on the terrace, passing around bottles of Colombian rum and smokes. There was also a show-and-tell of everyone’s shopping finds for the day, and I was impressed by the high-quality clothing everyone had scored for as low as $1 per item.

Salsa Dancing in Cali, Colombia

Later in the evening, we headed out to La Topa Tolondra for some salsa dancing. One perk of our hostel was that we were given free entrance wristbands. We made a stop by another hostel (Viajeros) to pick up any stragglers who’d like to join our group, but we weren’t successful in convincing anyone to leave the admittedly lively Viajeros pool party.

At La Topa Tolondra, I danced a few times but mostly watched the talented locals of all ages skillfully dancing salsa caleña. In the early hours of the morning, we walked back to the hostel and stopped by a 24/7 bakery for local cheese pastries. Sadly, there were many beggars and homeless people in the streets. I regretted not following our hostel’s advice to never walk at night when we saw a group of men throwing a huge pile of papers into a fire they had built on the street.

Sightseeing and Leaving Cali

Unfortunately I had planned for only two half-days in Colombia, and I wished I had more time. To add to the sadness, my last day in Cali was also my final day in Colombia. 

I indulged in one last breakfast of huevos pericos at a local cafeteria before heading to the bus station to purchase my ticket for later that day. Initially, I panicked when I couldn’t find any tickets online. However, the more experienced travelers at the hostel reassured me that there were plenty of buses heading in that direction that weren’t posted online, and they were right. Feeling much calmer, I then strolled around the city center, which unfortunately was strewn with trash and populated by homeless people. The shopping areas and parks, while cleaner, were not particularly interesting.

Upon returning to the hostel, I attempted to plan my next month, considering a trip to Patagonia on the other side of the continent. Spoiler alert: I did end up going to Patagonia, but not until five months later. Everyone in the hostel laughed at my detailed planning, and I realized I still had much to learn about traveling as a backpacker.

It was then time to say goodbye to my new friends, and I made my way to the bus station. During the ride, I chatted with my Uber driver about my next destination. He shared a wealth of helpful information about the bus route; just another example of the friendliness of Cali locals!

I boarded the bus with a heavy heart, sad that my time in Colombia had come to an end and not knowing what to expect in my next destination, Ecuador.

Cali, Colombia Trip Planning Information

Things to do in cali, colombia.

My top recommendations for things to do in Cali are to spend a day seeing the sights near the city center, then going dancing or watching a salsa show at night. If you’re a dance lover, Cali is a great place for high quality and affordable lessons.

Explore Cali’s Neighborhoods

In El Peñon neighborhood, visit Parque de los Gatos, a park full of cat sculptures.

When in the city center , the main sights to visit are Iglesia Ermita, Plaza de Caicedo, and Parque Simón Bolívar. Don’t miss the Monumento Niche, which was constructed in honor of a famous salsa musician. The monument is shaped like trumpets and trombones, and when you step under the bells, you’ll hear each one playing a different song! Also make sure to walk around the charming San Antonio neighborhood, and visit its church and park. For an authentic shopping experience, check out Parque Artesanal Loma de La Cruz, a park with vendors selling artisanal products.

I recommend heading to La Topa Tolondra for salsa dancing. If you don’t feel like dancing, you can still enjoy a drink and be impressed by the locals!

If you’d prefer to leave the dancing to professionals, head to El Delirio . This is Cali’s most famous salsa show; a combination of dance, music, and circus performances. Tickets start at 150,000 COP (38 USD) and the venue is a ~30 min drive from the center of town.

If you have the time, take a dance class at a local studio. Private lessons are very affordable, and if you’ll be staying for a while, local studios host social events where you can practice.

In Cali, Colombia, the streets of the city center are full of vendors selling everything you could possibly want at very low prices. There are also many malls (centro commercial) in the center and in the neighborhoods north of the center.

For an aerial panorama of Cali, head to Cristo Rey, which is free to enter. This giant Christ structure is 85 ft (26 m) tall and located at the top of a hill. It’s possible and safe to walk there, but you might not want to since the walk is 1 h 45 min and uphill. An Uber or taxi will take you there in ~15 min for 20,000 – 30,000 COP (5.10 – 7.65 USD).  To get to Cristo Rey by public transportation, take the MIO bus A04 for 2,700 COP (0.70 USD). Ride the bus to the entrance of the Bellavista neighborhood, from where you can catch a Jeep or Chiva bus for ~ 4,000 COP (1 USD). They’ll drop you off about 10 min from the entrance.

Cerro de las Tres Cruces

For another great view of Cali, Colombia, hike to Cerro de las Tres Cruces. The hike is 2.5 mi (4 km) and 1,300 ft (400 m) elevation gain. The trail starts near El Peñon, and depending on where you’re staying you may be able to walk or take public transportation there. For safety reasons, it’s best to do the Cerro de las Tres Cruces hike when there are a lot of other people on the trail, such as on weekend mornings.

Waterfalls and Rivers Near Cali, Colombia

If you’re craving an escape in nature, Cali has some fantastic rivers and jungles nearby to explore. These areas are hard to get to by public transportation, so I would suggest going with a tour. Head to the Jordan River to enjoy waterfalls and natural jacuzzis, or San Cipriano for river tubing and to experience a unique local form of rail transport.

How Long to Stay

If you’re a dance lover, you could spend weeks in Cali, Colombia. I considered dropping all of my plans and extending my stay…that’s how good the dancing was. If not, 1 day is sufficient to see the major sights and enjoy a night out.

Cali, Colombia Weather

Cali is warm year round with cool nights. Dry season is June – September, and to a lesser extent, January to February.

Festivals in Cali, Colombia

From December 25-30, Cali celebrates La Feria de Cali (The Cali Fair), which includes parades, concerts, and cultural events.

Cali, Colombia Hotels and Where to Stay

I recommend staying in El Peñon or San Antonio, which are safe neighborhoods that are also close to tourist attractions. Other safe neighborhoods are: Centro, San Cayetano, Granada, Versailles, and Juanambú. I’ve recommended some safe places to stay below.

Budget: Viajero Hostel Cali & Salsa School . They have a nice courtyard with a bar and pool, which will be refreshing on Cali’s hot afternoons. You can also take salsa classes with them, and the environment is very social. Choose from dorms or private rooms.

Mid-range: Casa Ruta Sur . This guesthouse has beautifully furnished private rooms and a courtyard. Luxury: Hotel Stein Colonial . This hotel is ideally located next to the park and feels like an oasis in the city with its pool and garden.

Where to Eat and Drink

Cali is a big city with a lot of restaurants; you’ll find both western and traditional options, especially in the center. I was pleased to find many high quality vegetarian restaurants, such as La Casona Vegetariana , offering affordable lunches.

When in Cali, try some of the regional specialties:

• Pan de bono: bite-sized cheese bread 
• Cholado: shaved ice with fresh fruit
• Aborrajado: fried plantain stuffed with cheese

Tap water in Cali, Colombia is safe to drink, but if you’re very sensitive consider bringing your own LifeStraw water filter.

Is Cali, Colombia Safe?

While Cali is often unfairly labeled as dangerous, doing your research and taking necessary precautions significantly reduces the likelihood of any safety issues.

First of all, know which areas to avoid and choose your accommodation in a safe area. Safe areas include the historic center, neighborhoods above and to the east of Parque San Antonio, and the neighborhood north of Parque Simon Bolivar. 

Avoid Communes 13, 15, and 21, which are unsafe. These neighborhoods are far from the city center and touristic areas, so it’s unlikely you will stumble across them unless you intentionally venture there. 

When arriving in Cali, ask your accommodation for the latest safety information. Don’t walk late at night, even in a group. Take a licensed taxi or Uber. Lastly, keep an eye on your belongings when walking through San Pedro (the neighborhood above the center, including the park), which is a hotspot for petty crime.  Check out my Colombia safety guide for more tips, and make sure you have travel insurance .

Budget and Money

Cali is not a touristic city, and prices will be lower than those in Medellín or Cartagena. Many touristic activities are free.

ATMs are widely available near the center, but don’t carry around large quantities of cash.

What to Bring to Cali, Colombia

For a full list of what to bring, refer to my Colombia packing list . I would stress the following:

• Downloaded maps of Cali and nearby areas you want to visit (use Google Maps or MapsME)
• SIM or eSIM card
• Rain jacket ( Women’s , Men’s )
• Mosquito spray . Surprisingly, there are many mosquitos in Cali’s city center.
• Shoes that you can dance salsa in. Sneakers are ok, but don’t wear sandals or hiking boots!

How to Get to Cali, Colombia

Check out my guide to transportation in Colombia for more information.

Flights to Cali, Colombia

There are direct flights to Cali from many other destinations in Colombia and also internationally.

Keep in mind that the Cali airport (CLO) is far from the city center. For peace of mind and a fixed price, reserve an airport transfer in advance. A taxi to the center will be 50,000 – 60,000 COP (12.80 – 15.30 USD) and take ~30 min. Uber can’t enter airport terminals, so you’ll need to exit the airport to catch one.

A cheaper but slower option to get out from the airport is taking the bus, which will drop you off at the bus station near the center. There are 2 buses companies Rapido Aeropuerto and Expreso Palmira. Buses run every 20 min and cost 8,000 COP (2 USD).

How to Get to Cali by Bus

I recommend using BusBud to look up prices and bus routes to Cali.

Armenia to Cali: 3 hours. Add on an extra hour and bus connection if arriving from Salento.

Medellín to Cali: 8+ hours.

Bogotá to Cali: 11+ hours.

Ipiales (border with Ecuador) to Cali: 12 hours.

Getting from the bus station to the city center will take ~30 min by public transport (MIO bus line). However, a taxi or Uber will be faster (10-15 min) and safer when traveling with luggage.

How to Get Around Cali, Colombia

Uber is available in Cali, and it is cheaper and sometimes safer than taxis. Much of the safe areas near the center are walkable. 

You can also take the local bus line (MIO), which is 2,700 COP (0.70 USD) per ride. You’ll need to buy a card to load with money. Use Google Maps to look up the bus routes.

Where to Go Next

• Salento and Valle de Cocora  
• Pasto: visit the unique Las Lajas sanctuary hanging on the edge of a canyon
• San Augustin: an archeological site called the “Andean Easter Island”
• Tierradentro: an archeological site with painted underground tombs
• Tatacoa desert: unique orange and red formations in the desert
• Ecuador: get there via the border town of Ipiales, Colombia

Thanks for reading! I hope this Cali, Colombia travel guide helps you plan your trip. Have you tried salsa dancing? Let me know your thoughts and questions, I’d love to hear from you in the comments. For more Colombia travel tips and destination guides, head to my Colombia page .

Confirm all logistical and safety information before your trip. Also If you buy through links on this site, I may earn an affiliate commission. Thanks for supporting me in creating free content for you to enjoy!

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TRAVEL RESOURCES

Head to my Travel Resources Page for more recommendations.

Packing list . See my recommendations for packing a carry-on for long-term or multi-season travel.

Booking.com . This is my go-to platform for booking accommodation since it consistently gives me competitive prices and additional discounts based on usage.

SafetyWing . The most affordable travel insurance I’ve found that also offers excellent coverage.

Viator and Get Your Guide . Offer extensive tour options for both day trips and multi-day excursions.

BusBud . A great platform to search for bus routes in more than 80 countries and buy tickets online.

LifeStraw . This easy-to-use water filter guarantees that you always have access to clean drinking water.

Travel Credit Card . Earn substantial points for travel-related expenses and a very generous bonus when opening an account.

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Hi, I’m Kristina! I’m a solo female traveler sharing my personal experiences around the world. Authentic travel is important to me; in my destination guides I emphasize not just the most spectacular sights but also the local stories and history.

Other things I’m passionate about are discovering hidden gems, budget-friendly travel, and hiking and backpacking. My goal is to show you how to seek adventurous experiences for yourself!

Discover Cali Colombia: Your Ultimate Travel Guide

• October 26, 2023
• Colombia , South America
• No Comments

Cali, Colombia, is located in the Valle del Cauca between the western Andes Mountains and the Cauca River . As one of South America’s oldest cities, Cali is a vibrant destination that captivates travelers with its rich history, lively salsa scene, and diverse cultural attractions. Whether you’re a salsa enthusiast, a food lover, or a history buff, Cali has something to offer everyone.

Key Takeaways:

• Cali, Colombia , offers a unique blend of Indigenous, African, and Spanish traditions.
• Known as the salsa dancing capital of the world, the city boasts a vibrant street art and food scene.
• Must-see attractions in Cali include salsa clubs, historic sites, street food tours, and museums.
• Budget-friendly accommodations, affordable dining options, and public transportation make Cali an accessible destination.
• Plan your trip to Cali during the drier season from November to March for the best weather.

Historical Background

Cali’s pre-colombian history and indigenous cultures.

When researching the city’s past, it is impossible not to be charmed by its rich pre-Colombian heritage. The territory that is now Cali was inhabited by several indigenous cultures before the arrival of Spanish conquistadors.

The region was home to tribes such as the Quimbaya, Calima, and Yotoco, who thrived in these fertile lands. The Quimbaya people were known for their intricate goldwork and pottery craftsmanship.

They left behind a legacy of stunning artwork that showcases their advanced metallurgy skills. On the other hand, the Calima civilization made significant advancements in agriculture, creating terraced fields and developing effective irrigation systems.

Spanish Colonization and Its Impact on the City’s Development

In 1536, Sebastian de Belalcazar arrived in what is now Colombia and founded Santiago de Cali. The Spanish colonization marked a turning point in the city’s history, as it became an important economic hub for trading agricultural products with other regions. Under Spanish rule, the city flourished due to its favorable climate for growing sugarcane.

Cali played a crucial role during colonial times as a waypoint for transporting goods between Bogota and Quito. Its strategic location provided opportunities for commerce and growth.

The cityscape began to take shape, with religious buildings like San Antonio Church becoming prominent landmarks. The architectural influence of Spanish colonization can still be seen today in buildings such as the San Francisco church, an exquisite example of Baroque architecture.

The convergence of European influences with indigenous traditions created a unique blend that defines Caleño culture. As you explore the city today, take a moment to reflect on its fascinating history, from indigenous societies shaping this land centuries ago to Spanish colonizers leaving their mark on its development.

Understanding the historical context adds depth and appreciation to this vibrant city known as the “Salsa Capital of the World.” Remember, the city’s historical background is merely a prelude to the many wonders that await you in this Colombian gem.

Cali’s Tropical Climate and Its Effect on Local Flora and Fauna

Cali’s climate is as vibrant as its culture. It enjoys a tropical climate with consistent temperatures throughout the year, making it an attractive destination for both locals and tourists seeking warmth and sunshine.

The average temperature hovers around 25 degrees Celsius (77 degrees Fahrenheit), creating an inviting atmosphere to explore all that the city has to offer. This warm climate has a profound impact on the local flora and fauna.

The region is home to a rich biodiversity with an abundance of plant species such as palm trees, orchids, and colorful tropical flowers adorning parks and gardens. As you venture outside the city limits, endless expanses of lush vegetation await you.

The diverse ecosystem also supports various animal species native to this region. Keep your eyes peeled for vibrant butterflies fluttering amidst the flowers, or listen closely to the joyful songs of tropical birds perched among tree branches.

For nature enthusiasts or simply those seeking tranquility amidst nature’s beauty, exploring Cali offers an opportunity to immerse oneself in this rich tapestry of life. So whether you’re hiking up Cerro de las Tres Cruces for breathtaking panoramic views or strolling through San Antonio’s charming streets, Cali’s geography and tropical climate make every step a delightful journey immersed in nature’s wonders.

Cultural Diversity

Multicultural Melting Pot in Cali

The vibrant city nestled in the Valle del Cauca region of Colombia is a true melting pot of cultures. Over the years, Cali has drawn people from various regions across Colombia, creating a rich tapestry of diversity.

This multicultural influx has shaped Cali into a city that celebrates its differences and embraces its unique blend of traditions. As you stroll around Cali, it becomes evident that it is a microcosm of Colombia itself.

You’ll encounter people from all walks of life: paisas from Medellín , costeños from the Caribbean coast, rolos from Bogotá , and many more. The locals proudly identify themselves as “Caleños,” but their roots stretch far beyond this vivacious city.

Afro-Colombian Influence: Music, Dance and Cuisine

One cannot delve into the cultural fabric of Cali without acknowledging the profound influence of Afro-Colombian heritage. The African diaspora played an integral role in shaping not only the music and dance scene but also the culinary delights that make the city an irresistible destination for food enthusiasts.

When it comes to music and dance in Cali, salsa takes center stage. This lively genre was born out of a fusion between African rhythms brought by slaves during colonization and European influences.

Today, salsa permeates every corner of this energetic city; you can hear its infectious beats resonating through clubs and streets alike. Don’t be surprised if your feet start tapping involuntarily!

The African influence extends beyond music to dance styles like cumbia and champeta. These rhythmic movements have become ingrained in Caleños’ souls; they sway effortlessly to their seductive tunes during celebrations such as “Feria de Cali” or any given night at local salsa clubs.

Moreover, Afro-Colombian cuisine adds another layer to the city’s cultural tapestry. Indulge in mouthwatering dishes like “sancocho,” a hearty soup made with meat, plantains, and yuca, or savor “empanadas vallunas,” delicious stuffed pastries filled with meat or cheese.

Each bite is a testament to the flavors and culinary heritage brought by Afro-Colombian communities. Cali’s cultural diversity is an integral part of its charm and allure.

The city thrives on a vibrant mix of Colombian traditions and African influences. The city promises to take you on a trip through its ethnic tapestry, whether you’re mesmerized by the irresistible rhythms of salsa music, fascinated by the amazing movements of traditional dances, or fascinated by Afro-Colombian gastronomic delicacies.

Salsa Music and Dance Scene—Salsa Capital of the World

In-depth exploration of salsa music origins in cali.

Cali, known as the “Salsa Capital of the World,” has a vibrant history when it comes to salsa music. The origins of salsa can be traced back to the fusion of African, European, and Indigenous rhythms that came together in Cali’s diverse cultural melting pot. From its humble beginnings in local clubs and neighborhoods, salsa music quickly captured the hearts of Caleños and gained recognition worldwide.

The city is home to many influential salsa musicians who have made significant contributions to the genre. One such figure is Jairo Varela, founder and leader of Grupo Niche, a legendary Colombian salsa band.

Known for their catchy tunes and heartfelt lyrics, Grupo Niche has played a vital role in popularizing Cali’s unique style of salsa music. Additionally, other notable musicians like Joe Arroyo, Richie Ray & Bobby Cruz, Willie Colon, and many more have left an indelible mark on Cali’s vibrant music scene.

Highlighting annual salsa festivals held in Cali

One of my absolute favorite things to do in the city is attend the annual Feria de Cali (Cali Fair) , a week-long celebration filled with pulsating rhythms and electrifying dance performances that showcase the city’s unrivaled passion for salsa.

This renowned festival takes place every December and attracts both locals and international visitors who flock to witness world-class dance competitions, live concerts featuring top-notch artists, colorful parades through the streets of Cali, and much more. The Feria de Cali isn’t the only festival dedicated to celebrating salsa in this lively city.

Throughout the year, various events shine a spotlight on this captivating dance form. An event you shouldn’t miss is the Salsa al Parque Festival , held annually at Parque de los Almendros.

This free outdoor festival brings together talented salsa dancers and musicians, creating an atmosphere filled with infectious energy. It’s a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in the city’s vibrant salsa culture.

Overview of salsa dance culture in Cali, including renowned dance schools

Salsa is not just music; it’s a way of life in the city, and it boasts an exceptional salsa dance culture. Caleños possess an innate ability to move their bodies rhythmically to the beats of salsa, showcasing their passion and skill on the dance floor. The streets of neighborhoods like San Antonio come alive with people moving effortlessly to the captivating melodies that resonate through the air.

For those who want to learn how to dance salsa or enhance their existing skills, the city offers a wide range of renowned dance schools where you can take classes taught by experienced instructors. These schools provide a friendly and supportive environment for both beginners and advanced dancers, helping individuals develop their unique style while mastering intricate footwork, graceful spins, and energetic partner work.

The city’s dedication to preserving its title as the “Salsa Capital of the World” is evident not only through its music but also through its thriving dance community and exceptional training facilities. Whether you’re a Colombian local or a visitor from afar, embracing the vibrant salsa culture is an absolute must-do experience that will leave you feeling energized and inspired by the enchanting rhythms that permeate every corner of this lively city.

Gastronomy Delights

Introduction to traditional colombian dishes in cali.

When it comes to gastronomy, Cali, Colombia, has an array of mouthwatering traditional dishes that will make your taste buds dance with joy. One of my absolute favorite Colombian delicacies found in the city is sancocho, a hearty soup that warms the soul.

This rich and flavorful dish features a delightful blend of chicken or beef, plantains, yuca (cassava), corn, and various vegetables simmered together to create a truly satisfying bowl of goodness. Whether you’re enjoying sancocho on a chilly day or simply craving some comforting food, this dish is a must-try when visiting Cali.

Special Mention: Empanadas Vallunas

No culinary exploration of Cali would be complete without savoring empanadas vallunas. These delicious stuffed pastries are a local specialty that deserves special mention. Empanadas vallunas are made with corn-based dough filled with tasty ingredients such as ground beef, potatoes, onions, and herbs.

These golden pockets of delight are then deep-fried to perfection until they become crispy on the outside while still retaining their mouthwatering juiciness inside. What sets empanadas vallunas apart from other empanada varieties you may find around the world is the combination of flavors and textures unique to this region.

The filling is often complemented by adding diced tomatoes, ají (Colombian hot sauce), and even a slice of boiled egg for an extra burst of flavor. Whether enjoyed as a snack on the go or as part of a larger meal with friends and family, these savory treats will leave you wanting more.

So if you find yourself wandering around the city’s vibrant streets during your visit to Colombia’s salsa capital, make sure to indulge in the traditional delicacies that the city has to offer. From the heartwarming sancocho to the irresistible empanadas vallunas, these dishes will not only satiate your appetite but also provide a glimpse into the rich culinary heritage of this incredible city.

Things to Do in Cali

When visiting Cali, there are plenty of exciting attractions and activities to explore. From immersing yourself in the vibrant salsa scene to discovering the city’s historical landmarks, the city offers a diverse range of experiences for every traveler.

One of the must-see attractions in Cali is the lively salsa clubs. Dance enthusiasts can step into the world of salsa and experience the pulsating rhythms that fill the city’s streets and venues. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced dancer, joining a salsa class or hitting the dance floor at a local club will leave you captivated by the infectious energy of the city’s salsa scene .

For history buffs, the Gothic Iglesia de la Ermita is an architectural gem that shouldn’t be missed. This centuries-old church showcases Cali’s rich history and is a remarkable sight to behold. Additionally, taking a street food tour is a fantastic way to delve into the local cuisine and experience the flavors of the city. Indulge in mouthwatering empanadas, arepas, and other traditional Colombian dishes as you explore the city’s culinary delights.

Art enthusiasts will appreciate the Museum of Religious Art La Merced, which houses a collection of religious artifacts and artworks. The museum provides a glimpse into Colombia’s religious heritage and offers a serene and contemplative atmosphere for visitors. Exploring the charming neighborhood of San Antonio is another popular activity, with its colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and vibrant art scene.

Stroll along its colorful streets, admire the beautifully preserved houses adorned with bougainvillea, and indulge in delicious street food from local vendors. For those seeking breathtaking panoramic views of the city, a trip to Cerro de las Tres Cruces is a must.

This hill offers an invigorating hike up to three crosses at its summit, representing faith, hope, and charity. From here, you can witness the stunning vista of Cali’s sprawling urban landscape nestled within the lush greenery of Valle del Cauca.

Things to See and Do in Cali:

• Experience the vibrant salsa clubs
• Visit the Gothic Iglesia de la Ermita
• Take a street food tour
• Explore the Museum of Religious Art La Merced
• Wander through the charming neighborhood of San Antonio

Table: Top Tourist Attractions in Cali

With these incredible attractions and activities, the city offers a truly unforgettable travel experience. Whether you’re a culture enthusiast, a food lover, or a dance aficionado, the city’s vibrant atmosphere and diverse offerings will leave you wanting more. So, pack your bags and get ready to embark on an adventure in this captivating Colombian city.

Money-Saving Tips for Cali

Looking to make your trip to Cali, Colombia, more affordable? Here are some money-saving tips to help you stay within your budget and have a fantastic experience in this vibrant city.

1. Choose Budget-Friendly Accommodations

One of the easiest ways to save money in the city is by opting for budget-friendly accommodations. Consider staying in hostels or Airbnb rentals , which are often more affordable than hotels. Not only will you save money on accommodation, but you’ll also have the opportunity to meet fellow travelers and exchange tips on exploring the city.

2. Embrace Street Food and Local Markets

Another great way to save money in the city is by indulging in the local street food scene. Cali is famous for its delicious and affordable street food, so make sure to try popular dishes like empanadas, arepas, and churros. Additionally, visit local markets like Mercado Alameda to buy fresh fruits, vegetables, and snacks at lower prices compared to restaurants and supermarkets.

3. Utilize Public Transportation

Instead of relying on taxis, consider using the MIO bus system in the city. The MIO buses are not only cost-effective but also a convenient way to navigate the city. Purchase a rechargeable MIO card, which offers discounted fares, and explore the city at your own pace. This way, you’ll save money on transportation and have the opportunity to experience the city like a local.

By following these money-saving tips, you can make the most of your visit to Cali without breaking the bank. Remember, it’s all about finding affordable alternatives and immersing yourself in the local culture. Explore the colorful streets of the city and enjoy your budget-friendly adventure!

Where to Stay in Cali

When visiting Cali, Colombia, choosing the right accommodation is essential for a comfortable and enjoyable stay. The city offers a range of options to suit different budgets and preferences. Whether you’re looking for a luxury hotel, a budget-friendly hostel, or a cozy Airbnb rental, you’ll find plenty of choices in this vibrant city.

Budget-Friendly Accommodation

If you’re traveling on a tight budget, there are several budget-friendly accommodation options in Cali. Hostels are a popular choice for backpackers and solo travelers, offering affordable rates and a chance to meet fellow adventurers. Some recommended hostels in the city include Casa Blanca Hostel , El Viajero Cali Hostel & Salsa School , and El Retiro Hostel.

For those who prefer a bit more privacy, there are budget-friendly hotels available as well. Hotel Granada Real , Hotel San Antonio Plaza , and Hotel Vizcaya Real are just a few examples of affordable hotels in the city that offer comfortable rooms and convenient amenities.

Mid-Range and Luxury Options

If you’re looking for a higher level of comfort and luxury, the city has a range of mid-range and luxury hotels to choose from. Hotel Intercontinental Cali , NH Cali Royal , and Four Points by Sheraton Cali are popular choices for travelers seeking a more upscale experience. These hotels offer spacious rooms, excellent facilities, and top-notch service.

Note from the author: I stayed at the Hotel International Cali. It was a bit more expensive, but it was well worth the money. If it falls within your budget, I highly recommend it .

For a unique and luxurious stay, consider booking a room at the Hotel Dann Carlton Cali . Located in the exclusive Ciudad Jardin neighborhood, this hotel offers elegant rooms, a spa, a swimming pool, and stunning views of the city.

When booking your accommodation in Cali, be sure to consider the location. The city center, Centro, is a convenient choice for easy access to the main attractions and nightlife. The Juanchito neighborhood is known for its lively salsa scene and is an excellent option for salsa enthusiasts. If you’re looking for a more tranquil and upscale experience, consider staying in Ciudad Jardin, where you’ll find beautiful parks, upscale restaurants, and luxury hotels.

Overall, choosing where to stay in the city depends on your budget, preferences, and the kind of experience you’re looking for. With the right accommodations, you’ll be able to make the most of your visit to this vibrant Colombian city.

How to Get Around Cali

When visiting Cali, getting around the city is relatively easy, with various transportation options available. Whether you prefer public transportation, taxis, or driving yourself, there are convenient ways to explore all that the city has to offer.

Public Transportation: MIO Bus System

The most common mode of public transportation in Cali is the MIO bus system. With an extensive network of routes covering the city, the MIO buses are a cost-effective and efficient way to travel. Single tickets cost around 1,800 COP and can be purchased at MIO stations or onboard the bus. The buses are equipped with air conditioning and provide a comfortable ride around the city.

If you prefer a more direct and convenient mode of transportation, taxis are readily available in Cali. Fares start at around 4,200 COP, and it’s advisable to use reputable taxi services or hotel taxis for added safety. It’s recommended to negotiate the fare upfront or ensure the meter is used for a fair price.

For those who prefer the flexibility of having their own vehicle, car rental options are available in the city. Companies like Atlantis Rent a Car and Budget offer a variety of cars to suit different needs and budgets. However, it’s important to note that traffic in Cali can be congested, especially during peak hours, so plan your routes accordingly.

In summary, whether you choose to use the MIO bus system, taxis, or rent a car, getting around Cali is convenient and accessible. Consider your preferences and budget when deciding on the best mode of transportation for your visit. With easy access to all the attractions and neighborhoods, exploring Cali is a breeze.

When to Go to Cali

If you’re planning a trip to Cali, Colombia, it’s important to consider the best time to visit to make the most of your experience. Cali’s climate remains relatively consistent throughout the year, with hot and humid conditions. However, certain months offer more favorable weather conditions and fewer chances of rainfall.

The best time to visit Cali is during the drier season, which runs from November to March. During this time, the weather is warm and sunny, making it ideal for exploring the city’s attractions and enjoying outdoor activities. The average temperature during these months ranges from 70°F (21°C) to 85°F (29°C). Whether you’re strolling through the picturesque streets, visiting historical sites, or immersing yourself in the vibrant salsa scene, the pleasant weather will enhance your overall experience.

It’s important to note that even during the drier season, there can be occasional rainfall. Therefore, it’s a good idea to pack a light rain jacket or umbrella, especially if you’ll be exploring outdoor areas such as parks and markets. Additionally, it’s advisable to check the weather forecast before your trip and plan accordingly.

Table: Monthly Weather Overview

As you can see from the table, the temperatures in Cali remain relatively consistent throughout the year, with average highs ranging from 84°F (29°C) to 85°F (29°C) and average lows ranging from 67°F (19°C) to 68°F (20°C). The highest amount of rainfall occurs from May to October, with May having the highest average rainfall of 7.9 inches. If you prefer to avoid the rainy season, it’s best to plan your visit from November to March.

Overall, the city offers a pleasant climate year-round, but choosing the right time to visit can enhance your experience and allow you to fully enjoy the city’s vibrant culture and attractions.

How to Stay Safe in Cali

When visiting Cali, it’s important to prioritize your safety and take necessary precautions. Although the city is generally a safe city for tourists, it’s always wise to be vigilant and aware of your surroundings. Here are some essential safety tips to keep in mind during your trip:

1. Be cautious of your belongings

Keep a close eye on your valuables and avoid carrying large amounts of cash or wearing expensive jewelry. Use a money belt or a secure bag to store your belongings, especially in crowded areas or on public transportation.

2. Stay in well-lit and populated areas

Avoid walking alone at night, especially in unfamiliar or poorly lit areas. Stick to well-populated streets and use reputable transportation services, such as registered taxis or ride-sharing apps, to ensure your safety when traveling around the city.

3. Research the areas you plan to visit

Before exploring Cali, it’s recommended to research the neighborhoods and areas you plan to visit. Stay informed about any recent safety concerns or places to avoid. Use reliable sources, such as official travel websites or local tourism offices, for up-to-date information.

4. Respect local customs and traditions

Immerse yourself in the local culture by respecting the customs and traditions of Cali. Dress modestly when visiting religious sites, and be mindful of local etiquette. By showing respect for the local community, you’ll enhance your travel experience and foster positive interactions.

Remember, while it’s essential to be cautious, don’t let safety concerns overshadow the enjoyment of your trip. Cali is a vibrant and welcoming city that offers an array of exciting experiences. By following these safety tips, you can have a memorable and worry-free adventure in Cali, Colombia.

After exploring the vibrant city of Cali, Colombia, I can confidently say that it offers an unforgettable travel experience. From its rich history to its lively salsa scene and diverse cultural attractions, the city has something for everyone. Whether you’re a salsa enthusiast looking to dance the night away or a food lover eager to indulge in Colombian cuisine, this city won’t disappoint.

Throughout my time in Cali, I discovered the charm of its historical sites, such as the Gothic Iglesia de la Ermita, and the artistic beauty of its street art scene. I also immersed myself in the vibrant salsa clubs and wandered the charming neighborhood of San Antonio . The Museum of Religious Art La Merced and the Plaza de los Poetas were also highlights of my trip.

From a budget standpoint, Cali offers a range of affordable accommodations, with options to suit different budgets. The city’s public transportation system, the MIO bus system, is convenient and cost-effective. With a suggested daily budget of around 300,000 COP, you can comfortably enjoy all that Cali has to offer without breaking the bank.

In conclusion, Cali is a city that will leave a lasting impression on any traveler. By following this ultimate travel guide and taking the necessary safety precautions, you’ll be well-equipped to explore Cali’s treasures and create unforgettable memories. So pack your dancing shoes, embrace the vibrant culture, and get ready for the adventure of a lifetime in Cali, Colombia!

Is Cali, Colombia, one of the oldest cities in South America?

Yes, Cali was founded in 1536 and is one of South America’s oldest cities.

What is Cali known for?

Cali is known for being the salsa dancing capital of the world and has a vibrant street art and food scene.

Where is Cali located?

Cali is located in the Andes on both sides of the Cali River and offers easy access to the Pacific Ocean.

What are some must-see attractions in Cali?

Some must-see attractions in Cali include experiencing the vibrant salsa clubs, visiting the Gothic Iglesia de la Ermita, taking a street food tour, exploring the Museum of Religious Art La Merced, and going on a coffee tour.

How much does accommodation cost in Cali?

Accommodations in Cali range from budget-friendly hostels to luxury hotels. The average cost for a hostel bed is around 16,000 COP per night, while private rooms start at around 40,000 COP.

How much does dining out cost in Cali?

Dining out in Cali is affordable, with a meal at a local restaurant costing about 10,000 COP per person.

What is the average cost of public transportation in Cali?

Public transportation, such as the MIO bus system, costs around 1,800 COP for a single ticket.

How much should I budget per day for a trip to Cali?

It is recommended to allocate around 300,000 COP per day for a trip to Cali. This budget should cover accommodation, meals, transportation, and activities.

How can I save money while traveling in Cali?

To save money in Cali, consider staying in budget-friendly accommodations like hostels or Airbnb rentals, taking advantage of street food and local markets for affordable meals, using public transportation instead of taxis, and looking for free or low-cost activities.

What are some recommended neighborhoods to stay in Cali?

Popular neighborhoods in Cali include Centro, Juanchito, and Ciudad Jardin. Centro is the city center where you’ll find hotels and hostels catering to various price ranges; Juanchito is known for its vibrant salsa scene; and Ciudad Jardin offers a more upscale experience.

What are the transportation options in Cali?

The MIO bus system is the most common mode of public transportation in Cali, with single tickets costing around 1,800 COP. Taxis are also readily available, with fares starting at 4,200 COP. Car rental options are available for those who prefer to drive, and walking is a convenient way to explore the city center.

What is the best time to visit Cali?

The best time to visit Cali is during the drier season, which runs from November to March. The weather during this time is warm and sunny, perfect for exploring the city’s attractions and enjoying outdoor activities. However, Cali’s climate remains relatively consistent throughout the year, with hot and humid conditions.

Is Cali a safe city for tourists?

While Cali is generally a safe city for tourists, it’s important to take some precautions to ensure your safety. Avoid walking alone at night in unfamiliar areas, be cautious of your belongings in crowded places, use reputable transportation services, and stay informed about any potential safety concerns.

Source Links

• https://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-guides/colombia-travel-tips/cali/
• https://www.tripsavvy.com/cali-colombia-guide-1636738
• https://www.kayak.com/Cali.11092.guide
• Tags: Cali , Cali Colombia , Colombia , South America

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Frank Claassen

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Cali Travel Guide

Last Updated: September 1, 2023

Founded in 1536, Cali is one of South America’s oldest cities. Its blend of Indigenous, African, and Spanish traditions makes it one of the most interesting places to visit in the country. Located in the Andes on both sides of the Cali River, it’s situated at an elevation of 3,327 feet and has the closest access to the Pacific Ocean of all the major Colombian cities.

Now Colombia’s third largest city, Cali is still struggling from its Narco days and isn’t as popular as Medellín or Bogotá . However, you’ll find a lot of people visit the city for one reason: salsa.

Cali is considered the salsa dancing capital of the world. Caleños (people from Cali) live, breathe, and dream salsa. A lot of people come here for months to learn to dance at one of the many world-class schools in the city. Even if you aren’t a dancer (I’m not), it’s still fun to watch one of the many shows at the clubs around the city.

Moreover, this is one of the best cities in the country for street art and food. Grab a cholao (also known as cholado or raspao ) — a cold drink of fruit, condensed milk, and flavored syrup — and wander the tree-covered streets.

This travel guide to Cali has everything you need to know to make the most of your visit!

Table of Contents

• Things to See and Do
• Typical Costs
• Suggested Budget
• Money-Saving Tips
• Where to Stay
• How to Get Around
• How to Stay Safe
• Best Places to Book Your Trip
• Related Blogs on Cali

Top 5 Things to See and Do in Cali

1. Enjoy salsa

Cali is considered the salsa capital of the world. Head to one of the popular clubs like Tin Tin Deo for free lessons on Thursday nights. Also try to check out Delirio, a crazy circus-like performance that happens on the last Friday of the month. Tickets start at 165,000 COP.

2. See the Iglesia de la Ermita

The Gothic Iglesia de la Ermita is one of the city’s most striking pieces of architecture. It was originally built in 1678 but was destroyed in an earthquake in 1925 (and later rebuilt). It has Dutch musical clocks, stained-glass windows, French bells, and Italian marble decorating the altars.

3. Take a street food tour

On a street food tour with Callejeros Tours, you’ll develop an appreciation for this region of Colombia’s unique flavors. A local guide takes you to a market where you sample different foods and drinks. It’s really informative, Tours are 55,000 COP.

4. Visit the Museum of Religious Art La Merced

This museum dates back to 1678 and is housed inside an old convent with four different sections, including chapels, an archaeological museum, and a museum of religious art. Since its construction, it has also been a school and a military fort. It’s the oldest building in Cali.

5. Take a coffee tour

Colombia is famous for its coffee. You can hop on a tour to visit a working farm and to get to know the coffee pickers, farmers, and Jeep drivers working behind the scenes. You’ll learn about every stage of production, from the farm to your cup. Prices start around 210,000 COP and include plenty of samples!

Other Things to See and Do in Cali

1. hang out in plaza de los poetas.

The famous Plaza de los Poetas (Square of the Poets) is a park filled with statues of local poets from the Valle del Cauca area (the region surrounding Cali). These are impressive, life-like pieces of art; many recline on benches or hang out in the shade. You can “meet” renowned writers like Jorge Isaacs, Carlos Villafañe, and Octavio Gamboa.

2. Take in the street art

You can’t go very far without running into an art installation in Cai, such as the 3.5-ton bronze statue of a cat named El Gato del Rio created by Colombian artist Hernando Tejada. Colorful street art and murals by local and international artists are constantly popping up all over the city, so spend some time walking around and taking it all in. It adds a lot of character to the city.

3. Wander Old Cali

The neighborhood of San Antonio is commonly referred to as “Old Cali” since it dates back to the 16th-century. It’s Cali’s trendiest barrio, where writers, artists, and musicians all come together in a tight-knit community. There are endless coffee shops, restaurants, and antique stores to peruse. Its location hillside also makes for some great views over the city, especially from the Iglesia de San Antonio.

4. Eat in the Granada area

This is Cali’s foodie area. There are tons of restaurants serving all varieties of food along Ave 9N, such as Faro el Solar, a popular local spot serving Italian food in a leafy courtyard. I also liked La Juana, a cozy hangout with coffee and crafts. Keep an eye out for chuleta valluna on the menu. It’s a Colombian dish of breaded and marinated fried pork cutlets. It’s delicious!

5. Go to the butterfly farm

Just outside of Cali is the large Andoke butterfly farm (also known as Andoke Mariposario and Paseo de las Mariposas) with over 15 exotic species of butterflies. They offer guided tours of the farm that also features some birdwatching. You can try some surprisingly delicious Valle del Cauca food here too, including fresh tropical fruits.

6. Tour La Tertulia Museum

La Tertulia Museum is home to over 300 Colombian and international works of art, with ever-changing exhibitions of contemporary paintings, sculpture, and photography. Renowned Colombian artists like Hugo Zapata and Beatriz Gonzáles have several pieces here. There are always regular events here, including film screenings, concerts, and poetry readings. Check the website to see what’s on during your visit. Admission is 10,000 COP.

7. Visit the Museo del Oro Calima

This museum displays more than 600 pieces of incredibly intricate gold jewelry that were once used by the ancient Calima people that lived in the area between 200 BCE-400 CE. Exhibits include ceramics and wooden tools that were used for everyday life as well as shamanic rituals. Entry is free and tours run multiple times per day.

8. Hike up to Christ the Redeemer

Much like Rio’s monument with the same name, Cali’s Christ the Redeemer is 26 meters high and stands atop Cerro de los Cristales (Hill of the Crystals) overlooking the city (making it the 10th tallest Christ statue in the world). Built in 1950, it’s a steep climb to the top, but the panoramic views over the area are worth it. There are vendors along the route selling fresh juices, so bring some cash for the hike. Admission is free.

9. Take a free salsa and art tour

This tour with Tours En Cali gives you lots of insight into the history of salsa and its most prominent dancers in the area, as well as local street art and graffiti. Be sure to bring some extra cash, as the guide also introduces you to some local street food places!

10. Take a free walking tour

Callejeros Tours and Tours En Cali both offer a free historical walking tour that takes in some of Cali’s most historically significant sites, including Iglesia la Ermita, Parque de los Poetas, and Plaza San Francisco. Do this at the beginning of your trip so you get an in-depth historical overview as you get oriented. Just remember to tip your guide at the end!

11. Go hiking

If you’ve had enough of being in towns and want to get outdoors for a while there’s plenty of hiking just outside Cali. Some of the most popular places include Farallones de Cali Natural National Park, with its waterfalls, trails, mountains and rivers; and Cerro Pico de Loro (Parrot Beak Hill) which has a 2-3 hour climb to the top. Both can be reached in around 90 minutes from Cali.

12. Visit Caliwood

Cali is known as the capital of Colombian cinema. For that reason, the Museum of Cinematography was opened here. Honoring both national and foreign directors, producers, actors and actresses, the permanent collection includes more than 800 devices, including cameras, camcorders, projectors, posters, and various bits of furniture and film paraphernalia and memorabilia. Admission is 10,000 COP.

13. Check out the Museo Aereo Fénix

Located at Alfonso Bonilla Aragón (Cali’s airport), the Fénix Aerial Museum houses a collection of airplanes, jet engines, and flight suits from pre-World War II to the present. Most of the aircraft are operational too! It also has diorama models and a railway division with early 20th-century steam locomotives. Admission is 20,000 COP.

14. Visit the Sugarcane Museum

Sugarcane fields are a huge part of the Valle del Cauca landscape. The Sugarcane Museum in Palmira is an 18th-century colonial hacienda with exhibitions and activities to help visitors learn about how sugarcane is processed and its importance to the region. The museum’s grounds have more than 120 species of birds and 336 species of trees and shrubs from all around Colombia. Admission is 10,000 COP.

  For more information on other destinations in Colombia, check out these guides:

• Bogotá Travel Guide
• Cartagena Travel Guide
• Medellín Travel Guide
• Santa Marta Travel Guide

Colombia Travel Costs

Hostel prices – Large dorm rooms with 8-10 beds start as low as 16,000 COP per night but average closer to 30,000 COP. Dorm rooms with 4-6 beds start at 30,000 COP per night. Private rooms start around 40,000 COP per night for a double room for two people but can cost up to 170,000 COP. Free Wi-Fi is standard and most hostels include free breakfast. Many also have self-catering facilities.

Budget hotel prices – Two-star hotels cost around 70,000 COP per night however, most hotels are three-star or higher and start from 90,000 COP per night. Expect amenities like free Wi-Fi, AC, TV, and usually free breakfast.

Airbnb is available with private rooms starting around 100,000 COP per night. An entire home or apartment averages 250,000 COP per night.

Average cost of food – Colombian food is a blend of indigenous, Caribbean, and European traditions. While ingredients and popular dishes vary by region, common staples include maize, potato, cassava, rice, and all kinds of tropical fruit (dragon fruit, papaya, guava, passionfruit). Fried plantains, chicken soup, tamales, empanadas, meat pies, and roasted piglet are just some of the delicious popular dishes you’ll encounter.

If you want to eat out, stick to eating out at lunch. There are lots of small restaurants here filled with locals taking advantage of set lunch specials. These lunches offer a lot of value for your money, costing around 10,000 COP.

For quick, cheap eats, street food is super affordable and costs just a few thousand pesos for empanadas and other quick take-out options.

Most Western food like pizza or burgers costs around 25,000. A combo meal at McDonald’s costs 16,000.

If you want to splash out, a three-course meal at a high-end restaurant starts around 35,000.

Beer costs between 3,000-7,000 COP while a latte/cappuccino costs around 4,500 COP.

If you want to buy your groceries, it costs around 80,000 COP per week for basic staples like rice, bread, produce, and some meat or seafood.

Backpacking Cali Suggested Budgets

If you are backpacking Cali, my suggested budget is 105,000 COP per day. This assumes you’re staying in a hostel dorm, cooking some meals and eating cheap street food, taking the bus to get around, limiting your drinking, and sticking to mostly free or cheap activities like free walking tours.

On a mid-range budget of about 220,000 COP, you can stay in a budget hotel or private Airbnb, eat out for all your meals, enjoy a few drinks, take some guided tours, and do more paid activities like visiting museums and taking salsa lessons.

On a “luxury” budget of 500,000 COP per day, you can stay in a hotel, eat out anywhere you want, drink more, take more taxis, and do whatever tours and activities you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!

You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages – some days you spend more, some days you spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in USD.

Cali Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips

Cali has lots of free activities and most museums and tours aren’t that expensive. It will be hard to spend a lot of money here if you’re visiting with a budget traveler’s mindset. Here are some other ways to save money during your visit:

• Stay with a local – Couchsurfing connects you with locals who can give you a free place to stay and share their insider tips and advice. It’s the best way to connect with locals and lower your costs in the process.
• Take a free walking tour – Tours En Cali offers an informative and insightful tour around the city that covers all the highlights. It’s the best way to get the lay of the land and connect with a local guide. Just remember to tip at the end!
• Use Uber – Uber is the cheapest way to get around Cali. If you need a taxi, use Uber instead.
• Cook your food – While local food is really cheap, you can also save some money by grocery shopping. If you do shop, I recommend getting breakfast food or snacks and eating meals out. You get more bang for your buck that way.
• Haggle with taxi drivers – Taxis are not always metered in Colombia. While prices from the airports are regulated and non-negotiable, everything else is just a matter of your bargaining skills. If you’re going to take taxis, haggle before you get in the car and ask your hotel/hostel staff what you should pay so you know you’re not getting ripped off.
• Pack a water bottle – The tap water here is safe so bring a water bottle with you to avoid buying single-use plastic. My preferred bottle is LifeStraw , which has built-in filters to ensure your water is always clean and safe.

Where to Stay in Cali

There are a lot of hostels in the city so you’re never short of options here. These are some of my suggested places to stay in Cali:

• La Sucursal Hostel
• Viajero Cali Hostel & Salsa School
• Oasis Cali Hostel
• Hostel El Aguacate
• Rossa Palma

How to Get Around Cali

Public transportation – MIO is the name of Cali’s public bus network, and it takes you anywhere you need to go in the city (there is no subway system here). There is one main line that connects with the cable car running from Canaveralejo into the poorer barrios. You need a MIO card to ride, which costs around 3,000 COP, while each ride costs around 2,200.

Taxis – Taxis are cheap in Cali and you can use the EasyTaxi app to order a safe, metered taxi. The starting fare is 4,900 COP and costs 5,000 per kilometer. Avoid taking random taxis off the street just to be safe. Instead, have your hostel/hotel staff call one for you or use the EasyTaxi app.

Uber is way cheaper than taxis here and you can pretty much get anywhere for around 5,000-10,000 COP. Just be aware that Uber is actually illegal here, so don’t sit in the back seat or you might get stopped. I also like to tip the Uber drivers here, since the fares are so cheap and they are taking a risk. But all the drivers I met did this out of necessity — they couldn’t pay their bills if it weren’t for Uber.

Bike rental – If you want to explore the city by bike, rentals can be found for around 25,000 COP per day for a basic touring bike.

When to Go to Cali

Colombia’s location near the equator keeps the climate consistent throughout the year, with average daily highs hovering around 24°C (75°F) near the coast and 7-17°C (45-63°F) further inland.

In Cali and the Andean highlands, there are two dry seasons: from December-March and then July-August. The average daily temperature during these times is 23°C (73°F). July is the busiest month here, so you need to book your accommodations well in advance.

June is an excellent time to visit because temperatures are warm, but it isn’t peak season so prices are lower.

April-May is Cali’s rainy season so it’s not the best time to visit if you plan on doing a lot of outdoor activity. The prices are much lower during these months, however, you’ll regularly get rained on.

How to Stay Safe in Cali

While Cali has had a rough and violent past, the city is much safer today. However, you still need to stay vigilant and take precautions as theft and muggings still occur often here.

When out and about, never flash your valuables. There’s a local expression about it in Colombia: “No dar papaya” (Don’t give papaya). Essentially, it means that you shouldn’t have something “sweet” out in the open (a phone, computer, watch, etc.) that would make you a target. Keep your valuables hidden, don’t wander around places you shouldn’t at night, don’t flash money around, and avoid coming out of nightlife spots alone at night. Do your best to blend in and don’t show papaya!

When booking accommodation, look for hotels or hostels with 24-hour security. You always want someone around in case you need assistance. If you don’t feel safe somewhere, don’t hesitate to move on.

If you’re worried about scams and getting ripped off, read about common travel scams to avoid here.

When eating out at restaurants, never leave your bag unattended as bag snatching is common. Keep it on your lap or under the table with your leg through a strap so it can’t be snatched quickly.

And please, please avoid drug tourism. The drugs cartels have crippled this country so it’s really disrespectful to the locals; they resent travelers who come here to do drugs. Also, doing drugs here is illegal, and you don’t want to end up in a Colombian prison!

If you experience an emergency and need assistance, dial 123.

Always trust your gut instinct. Make copies of your personal documents, including your passport and ID. Forward your itinerary along to loved ones so they’ll know where you are.

For more in-depth coverage of how to stay safe in Colombia, check out this post that answers some frequently asked questions and concerns.

The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. Travel insurance protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:

Cali Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources

These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.

• Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
• Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
• Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
• Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
• SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
• LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
• Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
• Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!

Cali Travel Guide: Related Articles

Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on Colombia travel and continue planning your trip:

Where to Stay in Bogotá: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

Where to Stay in Medellín: The Best Neighborhoods for Your Visit

Is Colombia Safe to Visit?

How Much Does it Cost to Travel Colombia?

14 Things to Do in Medellín (and the ONE thing NOT to do!)

My 21 Favorite Places to Visit in Colombia

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The Top Things to See and Do in Cali, Colombia

Famous for their obsession with salsa , the people of Cali love nothing more than dancing to the rhythm of these infectious beats. But there are also plenty of other things to do in this vibrant Colombian city, with enough to keep travelers busy for several days or more. From cultural heritage to natural retreats, here are the best Cali attractions. Did you know – Culture Trip now does bookable, small-group trips? Pick from authentic, immersive Epic Trips , compact and action-packed Mini Trips and sparkling, expansive Sailing Trips .

Zoológico de cali.

Widely considered to be the best zoo in Colombia, a trip to the Zoológico de Cali is a must for families and wildlife enthusiasts alike. Among the exotic animals on these expansive grounds are tigers, huge iguanas, monkeys, and pink Andean flamingos.

Zoológico de Cali, Carrera 2, Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia , +57 2 4880888

An undiscovered gem just outside the city, this huge butterfly farm features over 15 elegant technicolored species. A series of pretty walking trails weave through the complex while knowledgeable guides do a bang-up job of explaining the life cycles of these remarkable creatures—from caterpillar to cocoon to butterfly. Mariposario Andoke, Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia , +57 5142989

Admittedly, this giant Jesus statue isn’t as grand as Rio’s Christ the Redeemer, but it’s impressive nonetheless. As it’s perched on top of a hill overlooking the city, the views are superb, and a visit can easily be combined with the nearby Andoke butterfly farm.

Cristo Rey, Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Gato de Tejada

A rather unusual attraction, this park pays tribute to famous Colombian artist Hernando Tejada, who created the famous central sculpture of a cat. After tragically passing away just a few years later, local artists got together and sculpted another 15 feline statues in his honor.

Iglesia de San Antonio

Set atop a hill to the west of the historical center lies Iglesia de San Antonio, a quaint 18th-century church that contains a number of unique wood-carved religious artifacts. Most come to enjoy the pleasant surrounding park, however, which affords excellent views of the city. Iglesia de San Antonio, Carrera 10, Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia , +57 317 5236589

Barrio San Antonio

Just down from the church lies Cali’s historic center, the funky Barrio San Antonio. Within these charming colonial edifices are trendy cafés, happening bars, and upmarket restaurants, making it a perfect place to eat, drink, and be merry. San Antonio, Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Real-life Narcos locations

Follow in the footsteps of your favorite characters from season three of this hit Netflix series , much of which was filmed on location in Cali. Some recognizable sites include Edificio Coltabaco and Plaza de Caicedo.

Plaza de Caicedo, Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

Try some local delicacies

Pandebono is a popular cheesy bread snack sold in bakeries, cafés, and street stalls all throughout the city. Then there’s the ubiquitous lulada , a refreshing drink that combines the local lulu fruit, ice, sugar, and water (booze is an optional extra).

San Cipriano

Those keen for a trip out of the city should opt for a day tour of San Cipriano. Highlights include a ride on a tiny railway timber cart, a visit to an Afro community, tubing down a tranquil river, and the chance to swim under some cascading waterfalls.

San Cipriano, Buenaventura, Valle del Cauca, Colombia

No trip to Cali would be complete without experiencing the city’s number one claim to fame, the seductive sounds of salsa. Those who don’t like to dance can watch a live performance, though the real action takes place within the city’s sweltering clubs. Zaperoco Salsa Bar is pretty hard to beat.

Zaperoco Salsa Bar, Av 5 Norte #16, Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia , +57 320 3094567

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Home » Travel Guides » Colombia » 15 Best Things to Do in Cali (Colombia)

15 Best Things to Do in Cali (Colombia)

Cali is the third-largest city in Colombia, and while it might get a bad reputation for crime, it’s actually a lively, fun city where you should be able to stay relatively safe if you know where to go. There’s not much in the way of tourist attractions, but there’s plenty to do, see, and experience in the way of culture, food, neighborhoods, and nightlife.

You can stay active and get moving in several different ways, from salsa dancing in the city where it was born, to hiking up to the best viewpoints in town, to visiting the Río Pance in the nearby national park. Along with a riverside walk right through its downtown, Cali has its share of palm tree-lined plazas, great cuisine, and bustling markets where you can while away the day.

Let’s explore the best things to do in Cali :

1. Go Salsa Dancing

Cali is the birthplace of salsa, so while you’re here it’s pretty much mandatory that you either learn to dance or go out and wing it.

You’ll hear the upbeat music all over the city and there’s plenty of places to take salsa dancing lessons, like El Manicero, Son de Luz, and Swing Latino.

For a real salsa experience with the old pros dancing alongside the tourists, you’ll be spoiled for choice, but check out Zaperoco, Tin Tin Deo, and La Topa Tolondra.

If you’re here between Christmas and New Year’s when the city’s La Feria de Cali takes place, get ready for salsa parades, dancing in the streets and musical performances by famous artists.

If you can’t get enough of salsa (and when it’s good, trust me, you can’t), book ahead to see Cali’s famous salsa circus, Delirio.

These dancers have traveled the world performing, and they only hold shows here on the last weeked of each month, so plan your trip around one! Shows feel like a combination of music, dancing, and Cirque de Soleil with a touch of cabaret.

The salsa dancers are phenomenal, having grown up in Cali’s salsa schools – we’re talking kids and adults performing at the highest level.

Shows are held in a circus-like tent that seats 1,000 and in between acts you’re allowed to get up and dance.

3. Walk Along the Río Cali and Visit the Cat Park

The Río Cali is located in the north of of the city, and along its banks you’ll find pedestrian areas, bike lanes, statues, and shady areas where you can relax.

You’ll also stumble upon Cali’s famous Cat Park, or El Parque del Gato de Tejada, a city improvement project that’s home to a three-ton giant bronze cat donated by Colombian artist, Hernando Tejada.

Today you’ll see an additional 15 smaller cat statues in the park, all painted by local artists.

Parque del Peñon is nearby as well, and all around the area are plenty of places to sit outside with vendors selling ice cream, raspados (sweet, flavored shaved ices), and cold drinks.

4. Capilla La Ermita

This is the church everybody visits in Cali because, architecturally speaking, it’s truly beautiful.

Built in an ornate neo-Gothic style and located in the center of town, construction on the opulent chapel began in 1930 and finished in 1948. The design incorporates Dutch windows, French church bells, Italian marble, and inspiration from a cathedral in Germany.

It’s impossible to miss the bright white exterior and you can venture inside, though it is quite small.

Keep strolling this area for a look at some well-preserved colonial architecture and check out Plaza de los Poetas with its statues of famous writers.

5. Barrio San Antonio

The bohemian neighborhood of Cali, San Antonio is the oldest part of the city and it’s great for a meandering walk through narrow streets.

This is where you’ll find much of the town’s history, with plenty of intricately designed buildings, theaters, and artsy cafes where you can stop for a bite and some people watching.

Previously, lots of Colombian artists and writers lived in this area, but now it’s a hip spot for drinking coffee.

If you head up the hill to the Iglesia San Antonio, you can see the church and get some great views of Cali and the valley below.

6. Eat Local Cali Cuisine

You might’ve tried quite a bit of Colombian food already, but Cali is known for a few of dishes in particular.

You’ll want grab a cholado, those cups of mixed fruit covered in a sweet syrup of condensed milk.

Drink a lulado, a refreshing drink of lulo fruit juice mixed with ice and water.

There’s also pandebono, a simple roll of bread filled with cheese that’s typically eaten for breakfast.

Arroz atollado is a rice dish with pork, chicken, potatoes, and other vegetables.

Champus are the weirdest of them all, a soupy snack made of corn mixed with fruits that you eat with a spoon.

For a food tour that’ll take you out for a taste of Cali cuisine, try Callejeros Tours.

7. Walk up to El Cristo Rey

While it’s not quite as famous as Christ the Redeemer in Rio, this particular statue of Christ stands 26 meters high and it’s well worth a visit for the scenery and the exercise.

You’ll have the best panoramic view of Cali from here, so bring your camera.

It can be a little cooler up on Cerro de los Cristales, so grab a sweater (and some mosquito repellant) while you’re at it.

You’ll find a few vendors who set up shop along the route if you find you need a snack or a fresh juice.

This trip is also great to combine with a visit to the Andoke Mariposario, a beautiful butterfly garden up the road from El Cristo Rey.

8. Zoológico de Cali

The Cali Zoo is one of the most beautiful in South America, and almost everyone recommends a visit here.

With healthy animals, organized exhibits, and clean pathways that make you feel like you’re in the middle of a jungle, it’s a great day out for the whole family.

They have a large collection of animals that are native to Colombia, lots from all over South America, and even lions, tigers, and kangaroos.

The Cali River runs right through it, plus there are fish ponds, native flora, and freely roaming iguanas and peacocks all about.

You’ll probably be here for a while, so they’ve also got places where you can grab a snack or a drink.

9. Parque Artesanal Loma de la Cruz

This is the place to get a taste of the local Cali vibe, but you can also shop a little while you’re here.

Within the park you can purchase handicrafts from artisans who might even be making stuff right in front of you – prices are reasonable.

You’ll also find lots of cheap bars and restaurants all around where you can get something to eat or drink while you shop or walk around.

There’s usually a little entertainment going on here in the evenings, especially from Thursday onwards, and you could see anything from salsa dancing to live music to storytelling to guinea pig gambling.

10. Río Pance and Parque Nacional Natural Farallones de Cali

This is where locals go to cool off on the weekends.

Head out to Río Pance to enjoy the clear waters, the lush hiking trails, and the excellent birdwatching and wildlife spotting.

If you’re not driving, you can take the public bus for the day.

Pack a picnic and do some swimming or walk along the trails in the national park for great views.

At the bottom is Pance EcoPark, the most popular area with restrooms, food vendors, and a manmade lake.

Further up in La Voragine, the crowds thin out and you’ll have even more dramatic views, a rushing river, and restaurants serving sancocho (a Colombian soup). There are waterfalls, places to spend the night, and more difficult hikes like Pico de Loro if you venture further up the river and into the park.

11. Experience Cali Nightlife

Cali just might have some of the best nightlife in Colombia.

The city has several “Zona Rosas” or areas with a high concentration of buzzing restaurants, bars, and clubs.

Barrio Granada is a popular neighborhood that’s great for dining and partying but it’s a little further out.

La Sexta and the area around it are filled with bars, nightclubs, and salsa dancing (at Zaperoco). Many tourists will stick to the bars around San Antonio, but be sure to head to Parque del Perro at least one night to see where locals and students congregate.

In the center is a park with a statue of a dog (thus the name) where you can occasionally find musicians, artists, and festivals.

But the real attractions here are the surrounding bars, clubs, restaurants with outdoor patios, and people spilling out onto the sidewalks to drink and socialize.

12. Galería Alameda

Go explore a vibrant, authentic, somewhat chaotic market in Cali where you can shop, take photos, and taste test lots of foods! Galería Alameda takes up nearly a whole block and sells exotic fruits, vegetables, herbs, strange cuts of meat, and flowers.

You’ll even see indigenous women selling love potions and alternative medicines.

There are lots of food stalls here where you can try Cali specialties like champus and lulado.

Many restaurants around the market specialize in seafood so be sure to have some Colombian ceviche (the secret ingredient is ketchup!) after you finish browsing.

13. Cerro de las Tres Cruces

This hike is a bit of a challenge, but it’s worth it because the views are incredible from the top.

You can see the Hill of the Three Crosses from almost anywhere in the city, and on Sundays you’ll find lots of locals climbing it for exercise.

Go on weekend mornings and you’ll have plenty of company (don’t do it alone). It should take you about an hour to get to the top, and if you’re feeling super active, there’s an outdoor gym up there too.

The path is well-marked, though it can be a little steep in places.

Be sure to bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and your camera.

14. Plaza de Cayzedo

The main square in Cali, this palm tree-filled plaza is the heart of the city and a great place to people watch.

Admire the government buildings and national monuments and try some street food amidst the crowds.

You’ll see the Palacio Nacional, San Pedro Cathedral, and Edificio Otero, and you can enjoy a coffee or tinto as you admire the neoclassical architecture.

You’ll be surrounded by a range of characters that includes locals, tourists, lottery ticket salesmen, shoe shiners, dodgy characters, suited up professionals, and street vendors.

15. Hit the Museums

While Cali doesn’t have many touristic sites, it does have its fair share of museums.

Museo La Tertulia is the city’s modern art museum with a small but refreshing collection of artwork and a film library that shows movies regularly.

If you’ve got an automobile or aircraft lover among your crew, check out the Museo Aereo Felix with its transportation exhibits that include full-size planes, trains, tractors, cars, helicopters, and gas pumps.

Finally, you can visit a museum dedicated to the most important crop in the Valle de Cauca, sugarcane.

The Museo de la Caña de Azúcar is located on a beautiful, historic, garden-filled site in the countryside, and it offers tours of the old equipment used to process cane sugar.

15 Best Things to Do in Cali (Colombia):

• Go Salsa Dancing
• Walk Along the Río Cali and Visit the Cat Park
• Capilla La Ermita
• Barrio San Antonio
• Eat Local Cali Cuisine
• Walk up to El Cristo Rey
• Zoológico de Cali
• Parque Artesanal Loma de la Cruz
• Río Pance and Parque Nacional Natural Farallones de Cali
• Experience Cali Nightlife
• Galería Alameda
• Cerro de las Tres Cruces
• Plaza de Cayzedo
• Hit the Museums

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Awesome Things to Do in Cali Colombia – The Salsa Capital of Colombia

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Cali, Colombia is famous throughout the country, if not the world, as a hot spot for salsa music and dancing. One of the first things you’ll notice upon arrival though is that Santiago de Cali (the full name, but everyone calls it Cali) is just plain hot, but if you can brave the heat here, you’ll find that there are plenty of awesome things to do in Cali Colombia.

The heat and humidity may feel like a wet blanket, taking you back to the tropical coast, although the ocean is still very far away. Cali is Colombia’s third-biggest city, a cultural mixing pot where you’ll find faces of every color.

Cali Colombia has a bit of a bad reputation, a place that has been plagued by drug violence and insecurity, and while you should always be vigilant in any big city of Latin America, I didn’t find Cali to be overly worrisome.

Indeed, it felt much like Bogota or Medellin in terms of the general atmosphere. And my travel safety tips and thoughts about “ Is Colombia Safe? ” also apply here in Cali.

Things to Do in Cali Colombia

For the average tourist, there aren’t a ton of things to do in Cali that will keep you busy for weeks unless it’s a place you are looking to settle down for a while to work on Spanish or learn salsa.

But there are a number of highlights that are worth checking out if you’re staying in Cali for a night or two. So, if you’re wondering what to do in Cali Colombia, here are my recommendations after visiting the city a few times now.

Walk the Rio Cali

The Rio Cali runs along the north end of downtown Cali — on the other side of which lies the Zona Rosa, an upscale area. The area along the riverfront has been converted into a long stretch of park where you’ll find bicycle lanes, pedestrian-friendly walking, ample places to sit in the shade, and some cool art and statues. It’s a very lovely and agreeable area to relax and take in the sights and sounds of Cali.

Indeed, just being here along the river is probably one of my favorite things to do in Cali, Colombia.

Main public buildings, like the mayor’s office and administrative headquarters sit just beyond the park’s edges, and lend themselves to the open and car-free spaces.

In the park, you’ll find people selling cold drinks, ice cream, luladas, cholados, and raspados to beat the heat (more on that in a minute).

Further up the river, along the park, you will find El Gato del Rio, a famous sculpture by the Colombian artist Hernando Tejada. After his passing, a number of other painted cat sculptures came to the park by other artists in homage to him. It was all an effort to beautify the area.

Try a Lulada, Cholado, or Raspado

Cali is famous for a number of these cool and refreshing drinks or desserts, and you’ll see them sold from streetcars and little stores all over the city.

Luladas are lulo (one of the exotic Colombian fruits ), water, ice and sugar and it is one of the most traditional drinks in the Valle de Cauca region, something that is refreshing and delicious on a hot day (which is pretty much always here)

Cholados are decadent fruit and ice cream mixed together, a sticky sweet mess that you’ve got to eat before the heat tops it off.

Raspodos are basically like shaved ice you may already know and love, topped with your favorite flavor or something new and exotic.

Be sure to try and taste all three!

Capilla La Ermita

Along the far edge of the park, you will see the opulent little chapel known as La Ermita, with its bright color and white trim, it commands attention from all throughout the park.

The church is beautiful, but it’s actually quite small. After all, it is just a chapel.

The architecture in the downtown area surrounding the park and chapel are equally impressive. Old colonial structures that harken back to old times and feel a bit like something out of Cartagena , albeit on a smaller scale.

Get a Birds Eye View

If you’re feeling like burning a few calories, then a hike up to the top of either Cerro de los Cristales or Cerro de Las Tres Cruces may be in order. Either hill stands more than 1,000 feet (400m) above the valley floor and offers an incredible vista of the sprawling city below.

At the top of Cerro Cristales you will find a 26m tall statue of Jesus Christ with his arms outstretched — just like the more famous Cristo Rey statue in Rio de Janeiro, but a bit smaller. The top of Cerro de Las Tres Cruces has, surprise, three crosses at the top.

Either hike is free, but you would be best to do the hike in the morning before it gets too hot, and Sunday is a particularly good day since it brings about a crowd of locals, making either hike safer to undertake.

The Neighborhood of San Antonio

From the Rio Cali, if you veer south and then west across the downtown core, you will come to Calle 5, a major thoroughfare. Just on the other side of the pedestrian bridge lies the neighborhood of San Antonio, one of my favorite parts of Cali.

Here you will find the old city, with its narrow streets and intricately designed buildings.

It’s nice to just walk around and take in the atmosphere, but the neighborhood is full of cool hidden gems as well. It’s a place full of theaters, artsy restaurants and cafes, and artisan goods.

It isn’t one of those neighborhoods that is full of kitschy tourist trinkets, but just a bohemian, artsy place where locals (and backpackers) go.

These are my favorite types of neighborhoods anywhere in the world, to be honest, and San Antonio is a pretty great and unexpected one. Walking the streets here in San Antonio is probably one of the best free things to do in Cali Colombia.

San Antonio Church

Just above the neighborhood of San Antonio, off to the west, lies the San Antonio Church, sitting proudly atop a small hill.

The church itself is nothing spectacular to see, it’s not ornate, and it’s even smaller than La Ermita, but the view from the hillside is one of the best (and it is much more most accessible than the big hills mentioned earlier).

You can see the sheer size of the valley stretching out below and the towers rising from the downtown corridor.

It’s a great place to get an overview of the city and makes for an ideal stop either before or after exploring the neighborhood of the same name below.

Lunch at Chocolate

Chocolate was one of those cool little artsy restaurants we just stumbled into while wandering through San Antonio and looking for lunch.

Inside the place is full of art, the walls are decorated with old vinyl, and the host was friendly and warm.

They offer up breakfast, brunch, and lunch, although we only went for lunch. The place was full of mostly locals, and the host seemed to know and welcome everybody as regulars.

Each day features a fixed menu of the day for lunch, and we happened to go there for Ajiaco — basically, a Colombian chicken soup that is a specialty of Bogota .

Read more about it in my guide to Colombian food !

Both Andrea and I found it to be delicious and authentic. Best of all the hearty meal was only 8.000 pesos (less than $3) — super cheap.

Each Wednesday, Chocolate along with other area businesses hosts a flea market. The host implored us to come, but our travels would lead us out of Cali before the next Wednesday.

Eat Pandebono

Pandebono is a cheesy bread that you can find throughout much of Colombia, but which originated here in Cali. I love a good pandebono, so if you’re looking to try the original and the best, you can’t miss out eating it here in Cali.

Pandebono is a simple but delicious bread, most often eaten for breakfast. It may have gotten its name from an Italian cooking “pan de buono” aka good bread. Regardless, even proudly jealous Colombians from other parts of the country recommended that I try the pandebono from Cali because they are the BEST.

Coffee at Macondo

In every new city I visit, I try to find the coolest cafe with the best coffee. Macondo in San Antonio didn’t disappoint.

It’s another little hole in the wall, near Chocolate, with cozy seating, a dim interior, and walls full of interesting art.

My key to finding a good coffee shop is someone that serves up black coffee prepared at the table with Chemex, Aeropress, or at least French Press, and serves up a few different beans to choose from.

We ended up getting two servings of French press and trying both beans on offer that day, one from Cauca and the other from Huila. Both were good, but I preferred the brew from Cauca.

In case you didn’t catch it, the name Macondo is a reference to Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Colombia’s most revered author.

Try the Champus

Champus, like shampoos? It’s pronounced like that, but no, it isn’t for washing your hair. Champu is a unique fruit drink served in southern Colombia (along with Ecuador and Peru ) that consists of a corn flour base mixed with fresh fruit chunks, cinnamon, and other spices.

The name sounds uninviting, but the drink is really good and quite refreshing!

Not only is it refreshing but it will fill you up with the whole fruit chunks.

You can find champu stalls throughout the city.

More Things to Do in Cali Colombia

My brief stays haven’t allowed me to fully explore everything in Cali, so here are a few more recommendations about what to do in Cali Colombia:

Dance Salsa – I can hear you saying, where’s the salsa recommendation in this capital of salsa? Well, we didn’t go dancing. It was early in the week on our last visit, and the hot weather doesn’t really provoke me to go to a hot and sweaty salsa club. I can give you some recommendations on the best places in Medellin, but here’s an article on salsa in Cali . Obviously, salsa is one of the best things to do in Cali Colombia at night.

The Zoo – The Cali zoo is reported to be the best in all of Colombia, featuring animals that you won’t see anywhere else in the country, including some fairly exotic creatures. The entrance is about 15.000 per person, $5. While I have mixed feelings about visiting zoos, the fact is they play an important role in helping locals learn more about conservation and protection of both the environment and wildlife.

Tertulia Museum – A popular cultural and artistic hub within the city of Santiago de Cali. Here you can find art exhibits, movie nights, lectures, and a host of other activities, so be sure to check out what’s coming up during your visit.

Where to Stay in Cali Colombia

If you’re coming in for a short visit and doing some of these Cali sightseeing activities above, then I would recommend looking for an Airbnb or hostel around the Zona Rosa or around San Antonio. I’ve stayed in both neighborhoods on two separate visits, and I think I’d give the edge to San Antonio if you aren’t focused on nightlife.

San Antonio is the more interesting, eclectic, and entertaining part of Cali, in my opinion.

Traveling to Cali, Colombia soon? Book your lodging on Booking.com now to save on hotels, or if you plan to stay longer, I highly recommend looking for apartment rentals on Airbnb . And don’t forget to purchase travel insurance for Colombia that will help protect you against illness, injury, and theft. I use and recommend World Nomads for its combination of coverage and affordability.

Read Next: Guide to Traveling to Colombia

Colombia Travel Tips

Important tips and resources for planning an amazing trip to Colombia, based on my years of traveling and living in Colombia.

Colombia Trip Planning

• Lonely Planet Colombia
• Momondo Flight Search
• ViaHero Itinerary Planning
• Booking.com
• SafetyWing Travel Insurance
• Get Your Guide Tours

Instructions

• Book a cheap fligh t to Colombia with Momondo , or better yet, start travel hacking so you can fly for free. Traveling between major cities is much better by flying, trust me.
• Plan a rough itinerary and how long you will spend at each destination. Use an itinerary planning service for custom recommendations and pick up Lonely Planet Colombia .
• Work a little every day to teach yourself Spanish , you'll want to know as much as possible before you arrive.
• Book cheap accommodation in advance, at least for the first destinations -- For hostels use: Booking , for cheap hotels use: Hotels.com , for apartments use: Airbnb .
• Reserve your on the ground tours and activities through Get Your Guide .
• Purchase travel insurance for Colombia with SafetyWing to protect yourself from illness, injury, and theft while in Colombia. VERY important. And be sure to read my article: " Is Colombia Safe? " for my honest opinion and safety tips.
• Sign up for my free emails about planning a better trip to Colombia, and be sure to check out my comprehensive guide about traveling to Colombia .
• Learn more money-saving tricks with my top budget travel tips .
• Put together your Colombia packing list .
• Enjoy this incredible country!

I hope this helped you plan your travels in Colombia! I know it can be a struggle to find accurate and on the ground information when traveling to a new place like Colombia, which is why I started writing so extensively about it!

If you have any questions about Colombia, budget travel, or anything else shoot me an email at [email protected].

(I love getting questions! That is how I get ideas for my blog posts and what to write about!)

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Things to Do in Cali, The Salsa Capital of Colombia

A visit to Cali, the ‘Salsa Capital of the World’, is on many people’s itineraries when travelling to Colombia, even if it isn’t the most popular city to visit in the country. Whilst the ultimate thing to do in Cali is to dance and watch salsa, the city also offers much more on top. So, if you’re currently planning your trip and are interested in what else you can do in Cali, then you’re in the right place.

In this guide, we’ll list some of the best attractions in Cali, from beautiful churches to street art and scenic views. As usual, you can also read about how to get to Cali, the best time to visit, where to stay and where to eat in this award winning Colombian city.

If you’d like to see the highlights of our time in Cali, then make sure to watch our short Cali video  on our  YouTube channel . For more Colombia videos, check out our  Colombia Series .

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links, which means we may receive a small commission if you click a link and purchase something. Clicking these links won’t cost you anything, but it will help us to keep this site up and running! Learn more about our affiliate policy.

Table of Contents

Introducing Cali, Colombia

Located in the Valle del Cauca region, Cali is the third largest city in Colombia after Bogota and Medellin. The city’s full name is actually Santiago de Cali, but everyone just refers to it as Cali.

It was founded in 1536 by the Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Belalcázar. Of course before the Spanish, Cali was inhabited by indigenous tribes. During the colonial era, the area was occupied by haciendas – large estates and plantations. The city gained its independence from Spain in 1811.

During the 19th century, Cali was the centre of the sugar plantation economy. Industrialisation and modernisation of the agricultural sector in the 20th century led to the rapid growth of the city’s economy. Cali today is one of the major economic and industrial centers in Colombia.

For a lot of people Cali is known as the ‘Salsa Capital of the World’ and attracts visitors from all over for this reason. However, the city is also one of the most important Sports Centers in Colombia and has hosted many important games over the years.

Cali has won the World Travel Awards’ ‘South America’s Leading Cultural City Destination’ award for multiple years.

Our Top Travel Resources to Visit Cali

• 🛏️ Find your accommodations with Booking.com
• 🎫 Book an organised tour in Cali with GetYourGuide or Viator
• 📱Get an eSIM with  Airalo  to be able to use data
• 🛡️ Don’t forget to buy travel insurance via SafetyWing

Things to Do in Cali, Colombia

1. go on a salsa tour.

Since Cali is known as the ‘Salsa Capital of the World’ most visitors come to the city with the intention of learning about salsa. You can follow the ‘Salsa Route’ (La Ruta de la Salsa) that guides you through the city between Antigua Estacion del Tren de Cali and Parque Alameda. Along the way you can visit places like the Salsa Museum (Museo de la Salsa) and the Jairo Varela Square (Plazoleta Jairo Varela) . They normally have a map of the Salsa Route at each of the must-see stops.

In our opinion, the best way to appreciate and understand Cali’s salsa culture is by joining a dedicated salsa tour . These tours normally last for 4 or 5 hours. During this time, your local guide will take you to different spots around Cali where you can learn and experience salsa.

2. Sign Up for a Salsa Class

Once you’ve gained enough background knowledge about salsa, why not learn some of the dance moves as well. With a lot of visitors arriving here to experience Cali’s salsa scene, there are numerous places offering salsa lessons. Whether you’re a beginner, or already have some experience, you can sign up for either a private or group class.

Sometimes hostels like Viajero hostel offer free lessons for their guests, which is worth considering when booking your accommodation. You can also sign up for lessons at places like Salsa Pura or  Rumba Y Salsa . Taking some lessons is a great way to meet with fellow travellers whilst also learning a new skill.

Once you’ve gained some confidence, it’s time to hit one of the clubs and dance the night away.

3. Watch a Salsa Show at Delirio

If you want to see a fantastic salsa show then you should book one at Delirio .

The Delirio Foundation (Fundación Delirio) was created in 2006 to help reclaim the popular culture of the city and to also provide artists with the opportunity to obtain professional recognition. Their show is an incredible mix of concert, circus and salsa. They’re like the Cirque du Soleil of salsa.

You can watch their incredible show on the last Friday of every month at the Pacific Valley Events Center (Centro de Eventos Valle Del Pacifico) . The show normally starts after 9PM (although the doors are open from about 7PM) and won’t end until 2AM. You will need to book your ticket in advance because they do sell out quickly!

Don’t worry if you’re not in Cali on that specific day though. You can buy a ticket to see Paseo de la Aurora, which is performed every Saturday and Sunday at the same place as the monthly show.

During your weekend visit you will be able to interact with the artists, enjoy live shows, join in with some salsa lessons and have some food. It is a bit like a festival but more family oriented. Apart from us, we only saw a handful of other ‘gringos’ there. Just bear in mind that to truly enjoy the experience, you may want to understand a little bit of Spanish. Even though we’re not fluent, we had a ton of fun interacting with the artists using our limited language knowledge. Attending this weekend show became one of our favourite memories from Colombia.

4. Join a Free Walking Tour

The best way to get to know a new city is by joining a free walking tour. Local guides will walk you to some of the best spots within Cali’s historic centre and will tell you plenty of interesting facts about the city.

If you stay somewhere like the Viajero hostel , then you can just sign up for a free walking tour with them. Alternatively, you can also secure a spot online via this tour .

Note. Whilst the walking tour is free, it’s expected that you leave a tip if you’ve had a good experience. Make sure to bring enough cash with you!

5. Check out Iglesia La Ermita Church

La Ermita is a church that you can’t miss seeing when visiting Cali. There used to be a small chapel where La Ermita stands today, however it was destroyed in a strong earthquake.

Overlooking Rio Cali, the picture perfect church you see today was inspired by the Ulm Cathedral in Germany. It was built in a neo-Gothic style between 1930 and 1948.

Inside the blue and white church you can check out some artwork and paintings. The marble altar is from Italy, and the musical clock and windows are from the Netherlands.

6. Experience the Sounds at Jairo Varela Square

Right next to the leafy Boulevard del Rio is Plazoleta Jairo Varela. This square is also one of the stops along the Salsa Route. Even if you don’t fancy completing the whole route, you should still visit this plaza.

Here you can visit Museo Jairo Varela which is dedicated to Chocoano Jairo Varela, one of the greatest artists of Colombian salsa. He was the founder (and also composer) of the salsa group called Grupo Niche.

The coolest attraction in this square has to be the giant trumpet-shaped monument . The structure forms the letters of the word NICHE. Each horn of the trumpet plays a song in harmonic, melodic and rhythmic elements respectively.

There’s also a Gastronomic and Cultural Market , where you can try different types of foods.

7. Go for a Walk along Cali River

A relaxing thing to do in Cali is to take a stroll down Río Cali. The river flows through the north of Cali, skirting around the city centre. It originates from Farallones de Cali, a mountain range that towers over the west side of the city.

The river bank is lined by a nice promenade (Bulevar del Río) and also filled with tree-lined green spaces. These provide the perfect place for a walk or bike ride, and you can just enjoy some shade when its hot. It reminded us of the leafy river walk we did in Cuenca, Ecuador .

There are also a few points of interest along Río Cali that are worth stopping at. One of them is Museo La Tertulia , an art museum containing a collection of Colombian and international art. There’s also Parque del Peñon , a small park where you might spot a few vendors selling their artwork. You can also stop by the Iglesia la Merced , an old church that is part of the La Merced Religious Complex. Make sure to pop into the Gold Museum too, located just behind the church.

8. Stop by Cali’s Cat Park

As you make your way along the river, you’ll come across Cali’s cool cat park called El Parque del Gato de Tejada . Now, unlike the cat park in the Miraflores district of Lima in Peru, you won’t find any real cats in this park.

Instead, you’ll see a giant bronze cat statue called El Gato del Río and an additional 15 colorful smaller ones. They were installed as part of an improvement project to make this area of Cali more inviting. The huge statue was donated by Hernando Tejada, a Colombian artist, and the smaller statues were all painted by different local artists.

9. Wander Around San Antonio

Being the oldest part of Cali, you should definitely spend some time wandering around the San Antonio neighbourhood. It is basically the bohemian, hipster area of the city with narrow streets, colourful houses, antique shops, and plenty of street art. Many Colombian artists and writers used to live in this part of Cali.

As you can imagine, there are lots of artsy cafes and restaurants here where you can stop for lunch or a drink.

San Antonio is considered a safe barrio and many visitors book their accommodation around here. As always, we still advise you to be cautious.

10. Enjoy the Views from Parque San Antonio

If you’re walking around San Antonio, then you should definitely make your way up to San Antonio Park.

On top of San Antonio Hill (Colina de San Antonio) , there’s an old church called Iglesia San Antonio . This small church was built back in 1747, making it the oldest church in Cali. Inside, there is a collection of 17th century wooden statues of saints.

The best part about this park is that from this vantage point, you get to enjoy some lovely views of Cali.

11. Try Some Cholado

Every part of Colombia seems to have an interesting dish that you may only be able to try in that location. Cali is no exception and is known for some unique foods. One of these is called cholado . It is essentially a cup of shredded ice, mixed tropical fruits, condensed milk, jam, and biscuits and wafers, all topped off with ice cream.

However, there are other typical dishes that you might want to taste when in the city, such as pandebono, sancocho de gallina , chontaduro , or champús del valle .

Top Tip. If you’d like to learn more about Cali’s cuisine, then definitely sign up for a street food tour like this free tour of the Alameda Market or this affordable tour that takes you to multiple parts of the city.

12. Enjoy the Views from El Cristo Rey

Note. Access to Cristo Rey is currently closed due to renovation works.

If you’d like to get panoramic views of Cali and its surrounding area, then definitely head up to Cristo Rey Monument. The 26-metre high statue is located on top of Cerro de los Cristales to the west of the city.

Some people choose to hike up there on a trail from the city centre, although our taxi driver told us that it can be quite dangerous. If you want to hike this trail, then make sure to only do it earlier in the day, don’t do it solo and don’t take a lot of valuables with you.

Alternatively, you can also take a taxi up. Just bear in mind that the taxi can cost a fair amount (drivers normally have a set price), since it’s a bit of a drive out of the city. We personally walked back down along the road (which is much safer if you do want to walk one way or the other), but if you want to return with the taxi then just ask the driver to wait for you.

Top Tip. If you get a bit peckish, then definitely stop at one of the many pizza places lining the road on the way up.

How to Get to Cali, Colombia

Depending on where you’re coming from, there are a few ways you can reach Santiago de Cali.

Plane. The quickest way to get to Cali is to fly. Alfonso Bonilla Aragón Airport (CLO) is located to the north of Cali and services both international and domestic flights. It depends on where you’re coming from, but there are many direct flights between Cali and other major cities in Colombia, such as Bogota and Medellin. There are also a few direct international flights to Cali from North, South, and Central America, as well as one from Spain in Europe. You can check where you can fly direct to Cali from on  this website.

Find Flights to Cali ✈️

Bus. Bus travel between cities in Colombia is a popular and affordable way to travel for both locals and backpackers alike.

You can reach Cali by bus from either Terminal de Salitre or Terminal del Sur in Bogota. All buses will drop you off at Terminal de Transporte Cali. The journey takes between 10 to 12 hours depending on the bus company and route.

There are also direct bus services running between Medellin, the second largest city in Colombia, and Cali. Buses leave from Terminal del Sur in Medellin and will drop you off at Terminal de Transporte Cali. The journey takes anywhere between 8 to 12 hours depending on the bus company and route.

If you’re coming from Salento, you can easily get to Cali by travelling to Armenia first, then hopping onto another bus to Cali. They leave very regularly and the journey is only about 3.5 hours long.

You can book your ticket to Cali with  Busbud  or at the bus station in person.

Where to Stay in Cali, Colombia

The best neighbourhood to stay in in Cali is San Antonio . It’s close to the city centre and there are plenty of amenities in the area. There are plenty of hotels and hostels, such as the popular Viajero hostel which offers free walking tours and even some free salsa lessons to its guests. Since its a popular hostel, it can be pretty lively. Alternatively, you can also book La Casa de Adry , La Vaina hostel or Magic Garden House hotel.

To the north of San Antonio is El Peñon , which is possibly the safest area you can stay in. It is the upscale neighbourhood of Cali, so bear in mind that prices are going to be higher here than other parts of the city.

You can also consider booking something around Caicedo Square in the centre of Cali. There are some affordable places to stay here too and plenty of amenities. Versalles and Granada are also great areas to stay in in Cali. They are more residential and quieter neighbourhoods.

Read Next: 3 Week Colombia Itinerary – How to Plan a Trip to Colombia

Where to Eat in Cali, Colombia

There are plenty of places to eat in Santiago de Cali. Below we’ve listed a few of our favourite places:

Alameda Market is a fantastic place to find something delicious. The market is filled with stalls selling fresh fruit and vegetables, as well as plenty of other traditional dishes. A lot of street food tours come here.

Alma & Café is a lovely restaurant serving delicious vegetarian and vegan food in the San Antonio neighbourhood. They have a great daily menu too.

Madre Selva is another great vegan place with lunch deals in the San Antonio area of Cali.

Pizza from one of the pizzerias on the way up to Cristo Rey viewpoint. Whilst its not a traditional Colombian dish, and they probably won’t taste quite as good as in Italy, it’s still nice to have a slice of comfort food when travelling.

Juan Valdez Cafe  is basically the Starbucks of Colombia. Whilst it’s a large chain, we definitely enjoyed popping in here for a quick coffee and some pastries.

Best Time to Visit Cali, Colombia

Cali is located at 1,014 m (3,327 ft) above sea level in close proximity to the equator. You can visit Cali all year round, but there are better and worse times to visit the salsa capital.

The dry season is from December to February and from July to August. Then there’s the rainy season, which lasts from March to May and from September to November. The high tourist months in Cali are between July and September, then in November and December.

You may want to visit Cali during one of its popular festivals. La Feria de Cali is held in December every year. It’s a week of salsa shows, cultural events and music performances, so you’re guaranteed a ton of fun. 

Final Thoughts on Things to Do in Cali, Colombia

Whilst we didn’t think that Cali would be jampacked with attractions like Bogota or Medellin , we were pleasantly surprised by just how much you can do in the city. It was actually nice not to see as many tourists here as we did in popular places like Cartagena .

We think it’s safe to say that attending the weekend salsa event organised by Delirio had to be the best part of our stay. It’s a shame that we couldn’t watch the actual monthly show, but thankfully we could still enjoy their performance and can only imagine how fantastic the main event would be.

Have you ever been to Cali before? If so, what was your experience? Did you sign up for a salsa class? If not, would you add Cali to your Colombia itinerary? Let us know in the comments below.

Now, let your adventure begin,

Our Top Travel Resources

Accommodation:  For hotels we always use  Booking.com  and  Hostelworld  for hostels. We also book longer stays on Airbnb or  Vrbo.

Flights:  To find the best flight prices we always check  Skyscanner ,  Google Flights  or  WayAway.  Then we also check the airlines’ websites too for comparison.

Car Rentals:  We use  Discover Cars  when we want to rent a car as it compares local, national and international companies.

Activities:  If we book organised tours we always check either  GetYourGuide  or  Viator.

Foreign Currency:  Whenever we can we prefer to pay in local currency and for that we always use our  Wise card.   We can easily withdraw money from the ATM or pay by card at most shops and restaurants.

Travel Insurance: We never go anywhere without travel insurance. You never know what will happen on your trip, so good travel insurance like SafetyWing can protect you in case of injury, illness, theft and cancellations.

eSIM and VPN: To get data abroad we use  Airalo which is an app that allows you to download a prepaid eSIM to your phone in over 190 countries. Make sure to have a VPN to avoid hackers accessing your personal data when using public WIFI. We use  Surfshark  which is the only VPN that offers one account on unlimited devices. 

Remember…It all starts with a Pin…

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7 Reasons to Visit Cali, Colombia

Home » Blog » Budget Travel » Backpacking Destinations » 7 Reasons to Visit Cali, Colombia

Cali, Colombia is known as the salsa capital of the world. People from all over the world flock to Cali and many stay longer than they expected. This is what happened to our friend, Courtney, and she shares why Cali draws in people and makes them fall in love with this place.

By Guest Author: Courtney Vondran

I’ve traveled almost all of South America, went to Machu Picchu , Tayrona National Park, and Uyuni Salt Flats — all of those special places South America is famous for. You know the place I cannot stop thinking about?

Cali, Colombia.

I’ll admit, it’s not the most tourist-friendly place I’ve ever been. And it’s not the most beautiful. But damn, it is special.

It has a completely different vibe than the Caribbean city of Cartagena and the digital nomad favorite: Medellin.

I’ve compiled a list of 6 reasons why Cali is one of the best cities in Colombia . I’m sharing what makes this such a magical city you should NOT miss, followed by a few things to do in Cali and some travel tips for when you get there!

1. There are lots of things to do in Cali

An “easy” hike within the city is Cerro de las Tres Cruz . It takes about an hour to hike up and there’s fresh juice at the top. My friend was able to sprint up, but I had to take a couple breaks. I blame the altitude.

Many locals hike up daily for exercise. I recommend hiking up early between 5 a.m. and 1 p.m. when police are on duty, anytime after locals warn it is dangerous. Remember to wear sneakers or hiking boots.

Experience Colombian cuisine

Eat your way around the best restaurants in town or take a cooking class and really delve into Colombian cuisine.

Try salsa dancing

As the “capital” of Salsa dancing, you have to give it a try while you’re here. More recommendations on where to try it below!

Practice your Spanish

With affordable course options and a fun place to base yourself, Cali makes a great hub for learning (or improving) Spanish. 

2. It’s the capital of Salsa Dancing

Cali is the salsa dancing capital of the world and boy, does it live up to it’s name. It is absolutely incredible. I am a dancer, my passion is movement.

I’ve danced in cities all across Latin America and the United States. Never have I ever witnessed dancers with such passion and rhythm in my entire life. The locals dancing in the famous clubs of Tin Tin Deo and La Topa Tolondra give every last drop of energy to the dance floor. I can’t stop smiling just thinking about it.

I took 4 weeks of private salsa classes at Salsa Pura . I highly recommend classes with Dalia (pictured above), but all of the instructors are fantastic. I learned the unique salsa Caleña style. It’s worth taking private classes.

I also took group classes at Salsa Pura and Arrebato Caleño. If you are intermediate, I recommend Arrebato for their challenging group class twice a week.

3. It’s the perfect place to improve your Spanish

If you’re taking salsa classes, might as well learn some Spanish while you’re here. In my opinion, it’s the perfect combo. I took classes at Viva La Lingua, the more classes you take, the cheaper they are. I believe the classes are around 55.000 pesos/hour. It includes activities, a school and resources. I really enjoyed my time there.

If you want to save a bit of dinero, I highly recommend Linda. She was my teacher at Viva La Lingua, but has recently become independent. After one month, I was able to lead a yoga class in Spanish and converse with locals on a higher level.

Her classes are very engaging and less expensive than going to a Spanish school. I can honestly say I was never bored in her class (which is a problem for me)

Contact info : Linda Monsalve +57 319 7650862 (WhatsApp)  La Pro de Espanol (Facebook)

4. Cali is Cheap

Just about everything is cheap in Cali. Accommodations and food are super cheap, if you know where to go. Upon arrival, we stayed in a simple private room through Airbnb for $10/night (Click here for  $55 off your first stay on Airbnb ).

We eventually rented a centrally located furnished studio apartment for $300/month. If you are traveling solo, there are many cheap hostels in San Antonio. I recommend El Viajero hostel .

We have loads of info on how to book Airbnbs, red flags to watch out for when booking, and our favorite Airbnbs in our  Airbnb article . Plus, we’ll give you our Airbnb coupon code for up to $55 off Airbnb.

And who doesn’t love cheap delicious food? A lunch menu is around 10.000 pesos ($3.50). I recommend Pita Majita, El Buen Alimento, and Vegetariano Flor de Loto for cheap vegan/vegetarian food. If you’re in the mood to treat yourself, go to Pão for a yummy cold brew with almond milk.

5. There are awesome day trips from Cali

I’ll be honest, I did not leave Cali while I was there. I did not want to miss out on any dancing! Here are three day-trips my lovely Spanish teacher, Linda, recommends:

San Cipriano

A small peaceful village with a beautiful crystal clear river, waterfalls, and nature walks. She recommends getting up early, leave Cali around 6 a.m. It takes about 2.5 hours to get there, but is worth the visit.

Pance River

A popular place for locals for swimming and leisure activities. There are various points: Chorro de Plata, La Voragine, La Chorrera del Indio, etc. The river is about 2 hours from Cali depending on which point you visit.

Pico de Loro

If you’re up for the challenge, Pico de Loro is one of the most recommended hikes around Cali. The mountain is viewable from Cali. It’s possible to do in a day trip or as a 2 day hike, depending on your level. A guide is required and only a certain amount of people are allowed to hike per day, so it is recommended to arrive early.

Next Read: Guide to Salento: A Colombian Town with Culture, Coffee and Charm

6. The people (and dogs!) in Cali are friendly

I met this handsome boy on my walk to school. I asked his owner to pet him and ended up meeting a new friend!

In Cali, I befriended the neighborhood juice lady. She hit on my boyfriend and we laughed about it every time I would see her on my way to school. 

One day I sat for hours talking with the owner of a small panaderia (bakery) in San Antonio. I met a neighbor and sat in his living room chatting about life in Colombia for 2 hours. 

Darien and I spent many of our nights sitting in the main park of San Antonio where families, friends, and lovers gather to eat and socialize. The locals have magnetic, friendly personalities. They made me feel at home.

7. You won’t want to leave!

Okay, I think I should warn you. You may get stuck here. My partner and I spent a month and a half in Cali pondering whether we should end our trip, buy a house, retire at the age of 27 in Cali, Colombia.

It was within hours of being in San Antonio, the touristy neighborhood of Cali, that I just knew I wanted to stay here. The city holds a warm energy that filled my soul.

We weren’t the only ones. Travelers and locals I met often joked about how people say they are only going to stay for a week, but then end up staying for months, even years.

Travel Tips for Cali, Colombia

Get out of your comfort zone: If you feel like doing something a bit out of your comfort zone/want to practice your Spanish skills in a different way, I recommend going to a pole or twerk class at Vertical Pole. The owner and the instructor’s are kind and will make you feel at home!

Safety in Cali: Be extra careful with belongings   (especially at night). There is a high rate of theft on the streets. I encountered many travelers who had gotten their phones and wallets stolen. Be aware of people on motorcycles. I was on high alert most of the time, but felt safe walking alone at night in San Antonio.

My name is Courtney Vondran. I’ve been living as a nomadic human for the past 5 or so years wandering mostly in Latin America because salsa dancing is life. I am currently on an 8 month trip throughout parts of South and Central America with my beautiful partner, Darien.

I enjoy writing about embarrassing travel stories, rare vegan finds, and sex/relationships abroad. If you have questions or would like to chat about travel or life, let’s connect! Contact me through Instagram @courtneytheexplorer or check out my blog Courtney the Explorer .

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We want to hear from you!

Have you been to Cali before? What do you think of the place? Comment and we’ll do our best to get back to you!

Comments (4) on “ 7 Reasons to Visit Cali, Colombia ”

Definitely have to put Cali on my places to visit ?

Next time we’re in Colombia, we are taking a trip down to Cali. Can’t wait!

Lovely post!!! Hope to go to Cali one day ❤️❤️❤️

Us too! Cali, Colombia sounds like so much fun!

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Is Cali Colombia Safe: 10 Essential Tips For Travelers

One of the questions I get asked frequently is “Is Cali Safe”? When it comes to safety in Colombia, this South American country might not have the best reputation. While there are safer cities such as Bogota , Medellin , and Cartagena , many tourists that like to explore the Salsa Capital of the World might wonder about the safety in Cali, Colombia.

Cali is one of the more dangerous cities in Colombia, but it is safe to travel as long as you take extra safety precautions. Crime is concentrated in a few areas, so as long as travelers stay in tourist areas, they’ll be safer. It is important that you don’t “ dar papaya “, a Colombian Spanish saying for “don’t put yourself in a position where people can take advantage of you.

This means things like wearing fancy clothes out in the open, flashing your valuables around, or more simple things like walking alone at night on a dark and narrow street.

There are lots you can do regarding safety in Cali that’ll minimize your risk in this beautiful city and allow you to explore salsa dancing, breathtaking nature, and its rich culture.

That is why we have written this article to make sure you have all the safety travel tips you need for your next trip to Cali Colombia!

Planning A Trip To Cali Last Minute?

Make sure you book your tours, places to stay, and airport transfers ahead of time to ensure availability!

Our recommended airport transfer to Cali:

• Cali Airport Transfer Service To City (Safest way to get to your hotel!)

Our recommended tours in Cali :

• City Highlights Tour, Cristales Hill and Local Drink (Must-do in Cali!)
• Bosque el Descanso Nature Excursion (Super fun!)

Our recommended places to stay in Cali:

• Alko Hotel Casa Nispero (Luxurious and affordable!)
• Faranda Collection Cali (Great value-for-money!!)
• La Palmera Hostel (Perfect for backpackers)

History of Safety and Crime In Cali, Colombia

It is no surprise that Cali does not have a good reputation regarding safety. This city was home to two of the most dangerous men in the drug industry(after Pablo Escobar), the Rodriguez Orejuela brothers . They were head of the infamous Cali Cartel, which originates around the city and the Valle del Cauca Department.

At its peak, this group of delinquents was said to have control of around 80% of the cocaine market in the world . Of course, the violence associated with this kind of activity overflowed the city, which soon had one of the highest crime rates in the world.

After the arrest of the head members of the Cali cartel in 1995, safety in Cali has been slowly on the rise. Along with the peace agreement between the Colombian government and the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC), Cali no longer has the high homicide rates, violence and insecurity it once used to have.

Unfortunately, the outbreak of the COVID-19 pandemic deteriorated some of the achievements in terms of safety. With little to no tourism, locals looked for other methods to make an income, and some had no choice but to commit minor crimes such as theft and pickpocketing.

In 2021, Cali was the center of anti-government protests against new tax-related reforms, which were implemented to generate revenue for the government due to the lack of tourists. These reforms turned Cali into a battlefield, with many violent riots and people hurt.

Luckily, after the end of the pandemic, safety in Cali started improving and most tourist areas are now safe enough for travelers to have a great time.

Is Cali Colombia Safe For Travelers?

After all these stories about violence, drugs, and crime, you must wonder if it is worth traveling to Cali, Colombia. While safety is not guaranteed in Cali (or any place in fact), there are certain things that you can do to stay safer.

Generally speaking, as long as you are using common sense, avoiding the dangerous parts of the city, and staying alert to your surroundings, Cali is quite safe for travelers. Be extra careful when walking around alone, especially at night, as that is when most crimes happen.

Cali is not a place where you want to explore off the beaten path. Stay in the tourist areas and you are more likely to not encounter any risky situations on your trip.

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Is Cali Colombia Safe For Solo Female Travelers?

Typically speaking, Cali can be safe for solo female travelers. But like most of the world, solo female travelers tend to be perceived as easy targets and often garner more attention.

Like most South American countries, machismo is still very present in Colombia. This means you might get lots of catcalling and even some sexual harassment in Cali.

When you are walking in the street alone, it is best not to entertain any of the catcalling. You might be tempted to tell them to stop, but it could work against your own safety.

Sexual harassment is more common in clubs and bars. Though Cali has an incredible nightlife, women sometimes find themselves the subject of sexual harassment.

Read More: 21 Famous Landmarks In Colombia You Cannot Miss!

To stay safe in Cali, minimize walking around in the streets at night, especially alone. Avoid the dark and narrow alleys when someone can sexually assault you or just rob you. Don’t leave your drinks unattended, drink spiking does happen sometimes in Cali.

Colombians have a reputation for being charming and overly nice, which is true, but always remember that people might have hidden intentions.

If you are a female solo traveler in Cali (or Colombia in general), we recommend staying in one of the social hostels and making a friend or two to explore the city together. There is strength in numbers!

Is Cali Colombia Safe At Night?

Cali is a lot more dangerous at night, but travelers can generally stay safe as long as they are in the right neighborhoods. Cali can be pretty extreme if you end up in the wrong neighborhood at night.

As we’ve mentioned, there are risks when it comes to nightlife such as pickpocketing and drink spiking. Walking alone at night is strongly discouraged, especially if it is an area with a low flow of traffic. Just because you are in a safer neighborhood doesn’t mean that you are safe.

Criminals know that all the rich tourists staying in these areas. Though these areas have more police presence, they’ll try to commit petty crimes that won’t alarm the authorities.

Flashing your valuables, dressing like a rich tourist, and roaming around drunk or intoxicated are some behaviors you want to avoid if you want to stay safe.

If you want to get from place to place at night in Cali, we recommend you take an Uber or Cabify to avoid any unnecessary risk. If you are unsure about a particular neighborhood, it is always better to ask the receptionist at your accommodation.

Is Public Transportation Safe In Cali, Colombia?

The main form of public transportation in Cali is the Masivo Integrado de Occidente (MIO) and it covers about 95% of the city, including some of the main attractions in Cali. The MIO is a system of buses and cable cars, but at the moment, there is no metro in Cali.

Surprisingly, the MIO is quite safe in Cali, but pickpocketing on public transit is a concern. This is more common during rush hours when the buses are jammed-packed with people.

It is a good idea to wear an anti-theft bag or something close to your body so you can keep an eye on your belongings at all times. Don’t keep anything in your pockets because those are easy places for thieves to pickpocket.

It is also a good idea to keep the windows closed on the buses. Sometimes thieves will rob your belongings from the outside of the bus when it is stopped at a light.

Are Taxis Safe In Cali, Colombia?

Like in many other cities in Colombia, we wouldn’t recommend anyone take a taxi from the street in Cali, especially if you are traveling alone. Taxis in Colombia have a reputation for being potentially dangerous, and some even result in the infamous “ Millionaire’s Ride “.

Though the taxis in Cali are metered, some taxi drivers might upcharge you because you are a tourist. So, taxis in Cali aren’t exactly the most reliable or safest.

Luckily, apps like Uber, Didi, InDriver and Cabify solve the issue when you need to travel by cab. These taxi-hailing apps are easy to use and are the most reliable way to order a taxi. Cabify is generally more affordable and therefore more popular than Uber, but both apps are very safe and reliable.

Safe Neighborhoods In Cali, Colombia

The best way to remain safe in Cali is by picking a safe neighborhood to stay. There are several neighborhoods in Cali that are safe, such as:

• San Cayetano
• Ciudad Jardin
• San Antonio
• Historical center
• San Fernando

If you are a tourist in Cali, we recommend staying in El Peñón and San Antonio . These two neighborhoods are rather safe and offer visitors a plethora of activities.

If you are interested in some of the most famous landmarks and history in Cali, then the historical center is a great option.

For nightlife, the neighborhood you want to stay in Cali is San Fernando!

Read More: 17 Things You Didn’t Know Colombia Is Famous For!

Dangerous Areas In Cali Colombia

It is essential that you stay out of the dangerous areas in Cali if you want to stay safe. Generally speaking, the neighborhoods in the 13th, 14th, and 15th communes are known as the “ Aguablanca district “, and they are very dangerous.

Siloé in the 20th commune and the 21st communal are also dangerous. El Rodeo neighborhood in the 12th commune can be rather dangerous, so we recommend you avoid that as well.

And when we say unsafe, it is more than just getting your things robbed, so try your best to avoid those areas!

Read More: 13 Safest Cities In Colombia!

Safety Tips For Visiting Cali Colombia

While your safety is not guaranteed in Cali, there are several things you can do to make your trip safer. Here are some of our trial-and-tested travel safety tips for Cali Colombia:

• Learn Some Basic Spanish – Most locals in Cali don’t speak English, so it might be difficult to ask for help. That is why it is important to learn a few basic phrases and words in Spanish.
• Be Aware Of Your Surroundings, Especially At Night – Stay alert of what happening around you, as you can usually recognize danger before it happens. This is especially true at night.
• When Around With Confidence – Even if you don’t know where you are going, walk around and act like you do. Don’t give people a reason (don’t dar papaya) to come up to you. If you need directions, always ask in a store rather than on the streets.
• Stay In A Place With 24-Hour Security – This will make sure your things don’t get stolen when you are out and about.
• Try To Blend In – If you are able to blend in, you’ll attract a lot less attention. Don’t wear anything too flashy or wave your valuables around. Keep a low profile whenever you can.
• Travel With Travel Insurance – Travel Insurance could give you coverage in case something does happen to you, and it is also good to have peace of mind knowing you are protected. ✔️  Check out our recommended travel insurance here!
• Don’t Get Into A Taxi – As we mentioned, taxis can be unsafe and unreliable. Always use Cabify or Uber when you can!
• Don’t Take More Than What You Need When Going Out – Just in case you do get robbed, you won’t be losing more than you have to. I usually just take my phone, keys, cash, ID, and a credit card when I am out at night. Never take your passport with you at night.
• Don’t Accept Drugs – Colombia has a reputation for narco-tourism, and unfortunately, that is how most tourists get into trouble with the police. If someone offers you drugs in Cali, whether that is on street or at a nightclub, say no thank you (no gracias in Spanish). The drug dealer is sometimes working with the police to put you behind bars or to extort money from you.
• Don’t Fight Back If You Are Robbed – When you are robbed, the first instinct is to fight back. But in Cali, that is the last thing you should do. Criminals are not afraid to use their weapons, and nothing is worth more than your life!

Cali Colombia Safety FAQS

Is tap water safe to drink in cali colombia, is cali colombia worth visiting, is cali dangerous.

Drug cartel wars and internal conflicts have left a terrible reputation for Colombia when it comes to safety and Cali is no exception. However, safety in Cali has gotten a lot better nowadays and the city sees plenty of tourists every year.

We hope our article has answered all your safety questions in Cali. Have a great trip!

Disclaimer: Some of the links above are affiliate links. That means if you book or make a purchase through the links, we will earn a small commission at  no extra cost to you ! The money will help run this site! Thank you !

World Traveler, Travel Blogger, Photographer

LivingOutLau

Sean is the founder of the travel blog, LivingOutLau. He has been to over 30 countries in over 5 years of travel. Every day, he is traveling and sharing his discoveries of the world through exceptional travel guides on his blog!

SA U17’s trip to Colombia hanging in the balance

16th April 2024

South African national U17 boys’ team trip to Colombia is hanging in the balance, SABC Sport has learnt.

Amajimbos as the team is popularly known are believed to still be at their base camp, at the SAFA Technical Centre (Fun Valley), owing to some traveling complications, and will not be on a flight to Sao Paulo, Brazil via Luanda, Angola this afternoon as originally planned.

READ:  Gavin Hunt eager to bounce back in “tough” run of games

Amajimbos, who have not been in action since the African Cup of Nations (AFCON) tournament in Algeria in 2023, have been invited to Santiago de Cali by their Colombian counterparts to play two international friendly matches as they continue with preparations for the upcoming COSAFA U-17 Championships and the 2025 AFCON qualifiers.

The Vela Khumalo coached team has been in camp for almost a week now, playing a series of training matches, and preparing for this trip. They were initially scheduled to depart for Colombia on Friday, 13 April with the games set for 17 and 20 April.

But over the weekend, SAFA updated on their social media platforms that there had since been a delay to their departure date. It’s believed that these changes were necessitated by delayed VISAS at the time, with flights already booked for last Friday’s departure.

“Although the U17 National Team was meant to travel to Colombia yesterday, circumstances beyond our control didn’t allow for this to happen.

“The team is still in South Africa and will continue to prepare for the international friendlies at the SAFA Technical Centre (Fun Valley), until they leave early next week,” read the update on SAFA social media platforms last Saturday.

SABC Sport reported earlier today that SAFA President Danny Jordaan was still hopeful that the team [Amajimbos] would travel to Colombia this week to honour this invite as they look to intensify their preparations for the qualifiers. But this was before the latest developments. 

''Below that we have junior teams, U17, U20. Our U17 team is now making final preparations to go play an international match against Colombia. Why is that important, because FIFA took a decision that every year there will be a World Cup,'' said Jordaan on Saturday after the 32nd SAFA Ordinary Congress.

The dates for the rearranged friendly matches are 19 and 21 April 2024 and it’s still not clear if the trip will go ahead but SAFA are expected to release a statement this afternoon, to give an update on the latest developments.

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Game of small margins as SA U17 edge closer to Afcon target

Editors pick.

Why virtually all child sex crimes in Colombia go unpunished

Lack of coordination and political will allow impunity for abusers.

Colombia’s government and judicial authorities have failed to implement policies to reduce widespread sexual violence against children.

On top of that and for decades, the government has failed to develop strategies that would allow officials, scholars or activists to paint an accurate picture of child abuse and exploitation.

Children and parents seeking justice for sex crimes are more often than not revictimized multiple times because of the lack of coordination between, for example, prosecutors and social workers.

Consequently, vast numbers of victims abandon their quest for justice, which in some cases may take more than a decade, the executive secretary of NGO Alianza por Los Niños, Angelica Cuenca, told Colombia Reports.

How serious is the situation?

Between 2018 and 2023, the Medical Examiner’s Office examined 119,324 children and minors who were allegedly the victim of sexual violence.

Type of sexual violence against children (2021)

In a report that was published in December last year, Alianza por los Niños said that more than three quarters of the reported cases of sexual violence in 2021 were allegedly committed at home.

The alleged perpetrators were family members of the victim in more than half of the cases that ended up with the Medical Examiner’s Office.

Alleged perpetrators of sexual violence (2021)

Impunity for sexual violence against children.

According to the Prosecutor General’s victim database, only 1,389 people were convicted for sexual violence against children since 2018.

This is less than two percent of the children examined by medical professionals because of alleged sexual violence in the same period.

The real number of victims is likely much higher than the one registered by the Medical Examiner’s Office because of underreporting of sexual violence.

This is particularly an issue in areas where State authorities have historically been absent and in cases of sexual exploitation, which often is not reported.

Chaotic State approach

How many child victims of sexual abuse there really are is a guess as authorities barely collect relevant information and share this with each other, according to Alianza Por Las Victimas.

For example, the number of underage victims of sexual violence attended by the family welfare agency ICBF between 2017 and 2022 is half the number of victims registered by the prosecution, the NGO stressed in its December report.

This lack of communication between the multiple institutions effectively contributes to impunity for perpetrators.

In many cases, victims abandon their quest for justice because they have to repeat their account of the allegedly committed sex crimes multiple times.

Another major issue is the time that it takes for law enforcement or the judicial branch to respond.

Reports by Alianza por la Niñez and the Ombudsman’s Officer show that the prosecution in some cases needs more than a decade to call a suspected child abuser to court.

According to Cuencas, victims are often removed from home because of the time it takes to impose protective measures that would keep their alleged victimizer away.

Despite repeated calls for action, authorities have yet to come up with reforms that would allow an effective approach to prevent or prosecute sexual violence against children.

Lonely Plan-it: How to plan a trip to the Colombian rainforest

Apr 10, 2024 • 8 min read

Colombia's rainforest is full of hidden wonders like the Cerros de Mavecure © Alex Egerton / Lonely Planet

Gazing at a map of Colombia , the vast swathes of greenery that make up the roadless Amazon region may seem like one homogenous mass of jungle, but that lack of detail has always drawn me to travel deep into the rainforest.

Despite making up 42% of Colombia’s landmass, the sparsely populated  Amazonia receives very few visitors. 

It spreads over six departments – Amazonas, Vaupes, Guainía, Guaviare, Caqueta and Putumayo– all of which offer intrepid travelers the chance to roll up their trouser legs and wade into a magical world of old-school travel experiences.

Moving around here is hot, tiring and requires a lot of planning, but the rewards are immense. From thundering waterfalls in the middle of the jungle to enormous rocks that protrude from the rainforest canopy and cave art featuring the handprints of long-lost civilizations, the Colombian Amazon is both a natural and cultural wonderland.

Here’s how to get off the beaten track and discover the best of this magnificent Colombian rainforest.

1. Pick your season

Wet or really wet

Needless to say, any destination within the world's biggest rainforest gets its fair share of precipitation regardless of when you go. However the Colombian Amazon does have two marked seasons.

The dry season runs from June to November and is scorching hot, but it’s the best time for hiking under the jungle canopy with firm trails and less wetlands to cross. 

Low water levels also reveal spectacular golden beaches backed by walls of brilliant green foliage that appear on the banks of many of the region’s major rivers. 

The dry season is also great for wildlife watching – both forest and aquatic birds gather around shrinking water sources, butterflies are particularly active within the forest and larger mammals such as tapirs and otters make appearances on river banks.

The cooler wet season runs from December to May and sees rivers swell, lowland forests flood and lagoons fill, making it the best time to observe playful pink dolphins. It’s ideal for water-based exploration, whether paddling through flooded forests or venturing out onto mirror-like blackwater lakes.

2. Find a base

Fly into a regional hub

Almost the entirety of the Colombian Amazon remains blanketed in thick rainforest, and settlements are few and far between – choosing the right base for your adventure imperative.

Once you leave the limited road network leading into the Amazonia from the base of the Andes, there’s very little transport between towns in the region, with most passengers and goods arriving on direct flights from Bogotá .

Visiting several different areas of the Amazon on one trip is difficult. To maximize your time in the jungle, it's best to fly directly to one of the departmental capitals from where you can visit surrounding attractions on shorter boat rides.

Major commercial airlines serve Leticia in the southern Amazon, which is a top spot for wildlife watching in nature reserves and on the lakes and tributaries of the mighty Río Amazonas.

Less developed destinations are reached with the goverment-run airline Satena and include Puerto Inírida, from where you can travel to the imposing rock formations of the Guayanese Shield and the wide waters of the Río Orinoco. Another option is Mitú, gateway to awe-inspiring waterfalls.

If your budget doesn’t allow for long flights and boat rides, you can get a taste of the Amazon in the departments of Guaviare, Caqueta and Putumayo on the western edge of the region, which are all accessible by bus from other major towns in the country.

3. Choose your comfort level

Luxurious lodge or cultural experience?

In remote areas, private nature lodges do their best to provide comfort in the jungle with elegant screened huts, good mattresses, satellite internet connections and gourmet meals. Once you book at a lodge, you’ll usually be required to organize all your activities through the hotel which, while easy, does limit flexibility.

Another option is to bunk down in a riverside Indigenous community; many have recently turned to tourism as a way to generate employment and keep young people from leaving to the city. 

Quality varies greatly: the very best initiatives rival the nature lodges for comfort, while at others, getting a good night’s rest can be a challenge.

Staying in a community does have major advantages, however, with visitors free to wander around and experience traditional riverside life. It’s easy to organize hikes and boat trips at your own pace with knowledgeable local guides. Just be aware that residents are often reserved and it’s best to ask before snapping photos.

Due to the remote nature of the villages, many are not bookable online before departure, but local tour agencies in hub cities can usually call ahead to lock down a bed. A couple of well-run options can be found at Mocagua near Leticia or El Remanso below the Cerros de Mavecure.

4. Identify Appealing Attractions

From magical mountains to rushing rapids

Once on the ground, internet access ranges from very slow to non-existent, so it’s a good idea to research the attractions in the area before setting out. 

Having a firm list of your must-sees makes it easier to work with boat operators once you arrive to design a journey that will hit all your selections without doubling back again and again.

Here are a few highlights in the region: 

Cerros de Mavecure

These three enormous ancient rock monoliths rise unexpectedly from the lowland jungle beside the Río Inírida in Guainía. They are some of the oldest rock formations on the continent, and visitors can climb to the top of Cerro Mavecure for 360-degree views across the forest canopy.

Estrella Fluvial de Inírida

Take a boat ride from Inírida, the capital of Guainia department, to where the different colored waters of the Inírida, Guaviare and Atabapo Rivers flow into the mighty Orinoco, forming one of Colombia’s most important Ramsar wetlands.

Raudal de Jirijirimo

Perhaps the Colombian Amazon’s most awe-inspiring spectacle, these immense waterfalls on the Río Apaporis in Vaupes department, a 90-minute flight from Bogotá, are surrounded by impenetrable jungle and are only accessible by light aircraft.

Lago de Tarapoto

Watching pink dolphins jump playfully out of the placid waters of this pristine rainforest lake west of Leticia. It’s one of the Amazon’s most rewarding wildlife-watching experiences. The best time to see these wondrous creatures is in April and May when the lake is at its fullest.

5. Pack for the right conditions

Prepare for bugs and wild weather

Shops are lightly stocked in the jungle so you’ll want to bring essentials from home. If there’s one group of animals you’re guaranteed to encounter in abundance in the Amazon, it's insects. You’ll need to bring good repellent – 20% picaridin works well – and a portable mosquito net also comes in handy.

Lightweight, impermeable clothing is a must. While you’re likely to spend most of your time in the region sweating profusely, it can get unexpectedly cold at night and heavy rains on hikes and boat trips will have unprepared travelers shivering.

And if you're carrying electronic devices, you’ll want to bring a spare power pack (many villages don’t have constant electricity), a reliable dry bag (more for the rain than immersion) and some silica gel to soak up humidity for your electronic devices.

6. Get a group together

Personalize your rainforest tour

One of the biggest expenses when exploring the Amazon is boat travel. Fuel for outboard motors is bought in from a great distance and is much more expensive than elsewhere in the country.

Depending on how far you’re going, expect to spend at least US$200 per day for a motorized canoe. You can organize private boats once you arrive in the region through your accommodations or simply go down to town docks and negotiate with drivers.

Local tour operators sometimes organize collective day trips to nearby attractions, especially on weekends, but these tend to be crowded. 

A better option is to get together with like-minded travelers and make your own itinerary so that you’re able to spend as long as you like at each stop. The price of a boat is usually the same irrespective of the number of passengers onboard, so it’s worth spending some time seeking out new friends to share the expense. 

If you are unable to form a group and are on a tight budget you’ll need plenty of time. The cheapest way to get around is to hang out at the town dock and wait for a local supply boat that’s heading your way - although this may take days to materialize.

If I could do it all again…

I have made many trips from my home in the Colombian mountains down to the Amazon and after nearly every journey, I find myself wishing I had allocated more time. 

Because I’m usually traveling on a budget, flexibility is key. On countless occasions I have had to pass up the chance to join unplanned trips to incredible destinations due to pre-booked return flights. Buying changeable flights or simply arriving on a one way ticket is a good way to ensure you’re free to go wherever the river takes you.

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Jimmy Carter’s Colombia Blacklist Revealed

First Lady Rosalynn Carter meets with President Alfonso López Michelsen of Colombia, June 10, 1977. Mrs. Carter was the first in a series of presidential emissaries to deliver a tough message to López on drug corruption in the Colombian government. (U.S. National Archives)

National Security Archive Publishes “Ultra Secret” 1977 Narco Dossier for First Time

“Unprecedented” Intelligence Briefing for Colombian President Detailed Corruption Among Top Officials

Carter to Staff: “Do not send helicopters - Give me CIA info”

Washington, D.C., April 15, 2024 – A highly sensitive blacklist of allegedly corrupt Colombian officials assembled by the U.S. government and presented to Colombian President Alfonso López Michelsen in July 1977 as a way of gaining leverage over Colombian drug policy is the focus of a new Electronic Briefing Book published today by the National Security Archive. Located among records from the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library, the full text of the secret intelligence dossier, including the names of some three dozen officials believed to have ties to the drug trade, is published here today for the first time.

James Earl “Jimmy” Carter, who will be one hundred years old in October, is known around the world as the president who negotiated peace between Egypt and Israel, reached a major arms control agreement with the Soviet Union, signed the Panama Canal treaty, faced daunting foreign policy challenges in Iran and Afghanistan, and who has engaged in numerous acts of charity and goodwill in the 43 years since he left office. Less well known is President Carter’s personal involvement—and that of his wife, First Lady Rosalynn Carter—in for the first time focusing U.S. policy toward Colombia on narcotrafficking and its corrupting influence among government officials, an issue that would come to define the relationship.

The episode culminated in Carter’s authorization of what the CIA called an “unprecedented” briefing for President López in which he was presented with a dossier of U.S. intelligence and law enforcement information that linked “ministerial and judicial officials, military and law enforcement personnel, and other high-level figures” to the drug trade.

Key officials named in the document include the defense minister, Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia, the minister of labor, Óscar Montoya Montoya, and Col. Humberto Cardona Orozco, then the head of INDUMIL, a military weapons manufacturer run by the Colombian government (See Document 29 ). The most serious allegations—those against Varón, Montoya and presidential candidate Julio César Turbay, who became president later that year—were revealed in an April 1978 broadcast of the CBS television show 60 Minutes , which had obtained a copy of a June 1977 White House memo sent to President Carter by Peter Bourne, his chief narcotics adviser. Bourne had urged Carter to hold up the sale of three military helicopters to Colombia and attached a one-page summary of Colombian officials believed to be involved in cocaine trafficking, which was the focus of the 60 Minutes report. (See Document 11 ).

While a number of key documents from the episode have been declassified previously, including in the State Department’s 2018 Foreign Relations of the United States (FRUS) volume , today’s posting features several top-level documents from the Carter White House that have never before been published, including frank policy recommendations from key advisers. Some of the memos bear President Carter’s own handwritten annotations advocating for tougher drug policies and a more confrontational approach on corruption. These include the extraordinary decision to assemble and deliver an intelligence briefing to the Colombian president. [1]

Some of these records were part of the Remote Archives Capture (RAC) program at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library. The RAC was a security review activity dating back to 1995 during which the CIA, National Archives, and other U.S. agencies scanned hundreds of thousands of records from Presidential Libraries for sensitive material and, in many cases, provided declassified copies. The Carter RAC files were later obtained in bulk by the National Security Archive when the Carter Library made a large tranche available in digital form.

More than 2,500 additional high-level memos from the Carter White House, mined from the RAC collection, are now available in U.S. Foreign Policy in the Carter Years, 1977-1981: Highest-Level Memos to the President , the most recent collection added to the Digital National Security Archive series from ProQuest, part of Clarivate.

Highlights from today’s posting include:

• The full text of the long-secret intelligence dossier delivered to President López by three top U.S. officials on July 21, 1977. ( Document 29 )
• President Carter’s handwritten annotation on White House drug adviser Bourne’s memo recommending linking the delivery of promised military helicopters to corruption: “Do not send helicopters - Give me CIA info.” ( Document 13 )
• White House drug adviser Peter Bourne’s briefing memo for Rosalynn Carter’s meeting with the Colombian president, including a one-page summary of “Colombian Officials Allegedly Profiting from Cocaine Traffic” that months later would be leaked to members of the international news media. ( Document 11 )
• A State Department memo citing the “possible narcotrafficking activities” of Alfonso López Caballero, the son of President López, who went on to have a long career as a diplomat and policymaker and to hold top positions in a number of Colombian presidential administrations, serving most recently as ambassador to Russia from 2016-2022. ( Document 35 )
• A memo from NSC Latin America specialist Robert Pastor indicating that “the President was so much stronger” than his staff on the Colombian corruption issue and was the person who most wanted to include the names of corrupt Colombian government Cabinet officials in his letter to López. Carter himself said “that it was curious that he should be bolder than his advisors,” according to Pastor. ( Document 25 )
• U.S. Embassy speculation that Defense Minister Varón “may decide to be especially helpful and cooperative in [narcotics] matters in order to help disprove the allegations against him” in the narco dossier. ( Document 37 )
• Chargé d’affaires Robert Drexler’s cable complaining that the López government had done the “bare, protocolary minimum in hosting Mrs. Carter’s visit” in June 1977, treating it as a “ladies-only social event.” ( Document 10 )

U.S. concern about high-level drug corruption in Colombia emerged early in the Carter administration, and a key moment occurred in late April 1977 when the President was apprised of intelligence on the rapidly increasing pace of Colombian cocaine smuggling. Carter’s response, according to National Security Advisor Zbigniew Brzezinski’s April 27 memo to Secretary of State Cyrus Vance, was that the U.S. “should raise this officially and strongly with the Colombian Government.” ( Document 4 )

President Carter’s reaction set off a chain of events that after several months of preparations resulted in what the CIA said was an “unprecedented” high-level intelligence briefing in which the U.S. confronted the Colombian president, Alfonso López Michelsen, with information linking top Colombian officials—including two of his cabinet members, a leading presidential candidate, and ranking members of the security forces—to drug trafficking. ( Document 29 )

Revealed here for the first time, the long-hidden memo is a summary of information acquired by U.S. intelligence and law enforcement sources on narcotics corruption in the Colombian government and seems to address the Colombian president personally. [2] López is told that narcotics traffickers and their operations “are greatly facilitated by the cooperation and protection of influential Colombian officials” and that “further investigation by your Government would most valuable,” especially in cases of “high-level figures.”

The document lists some three dozen Colombian officials thought to have links to the illegal narcotics business, including prominent figures from political, judicial, law enforcement and military circles. The most well known person on the list, Julio César Turbay, who would go on to win the next election and serve as president from 1978-1982, is linked to narcotrafficking through his nephew, Anibal Turbay Bernal, who the report says is linked to narcotics traffickers who believed they would “be able to choose the heads of the Colombian law enforcement agencies should Julio Cesar Turbay become president.”

Top Colombian officials named in the report include two members of López’s cabinet: the Colombian defense minister, Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia, who the report says had “received narcotics and contraband payoffs,” and the minister of labor, Óscar Montoya Montoya, who is said to “have discussed illicit traffic in cocaine and coffee” with a known narcotics trafficker. Another key military official singled out in the report is Col. Humberto Cardona Orozco, then the head of INDUMIL, a military weapons manufacturer run by the Colombian government, a position that “lent itself to narcotics-related corruption,” according to the intelligence briefing. The former police intelligence chief in Cali, Capt. Harold Lozano Jaramillo, is said to be “operating a [cocaine] laboratory in his residence in Cali,” among other charges. The briefing also says that the former chief of the National Police, Gen. Henry García Bohórquez, used “his influence to facilitate the activities of several important Colombian narcotics traffickers.”

While some of the information in the dossier is derived from DEA investigations, other information would have come by way of the CIA, explaining why one of the Agency’s top officials for Latin America, Lawrence "Larry" Laser, participated in the López briefing. In a later interview, Robert Drexler, the Chargé d’affaires who led the U.S. Embassy during much of this period, described an early CIA counternarcotics operation that relied on “a very small number of trusted Colombian law enforcement officials” who the U.S. “could monitor closely” and through which the U.S. “collected intelligence on the contacts between the drug traffickers and high-level Colombian officials.” The intelligence was “horrifying,” Drexler recalled in an oral history interview with the Association for Diplomatic Studies and Training, “because it detailed the rapid spread of corruption.”

Whatever its exact origin, the alarming intelligence that sparked Carter’s heightened interest in Colombian corruption arrived at a transitional time for the U.S. Embassy in Colombia, amid what Drexler describes as a chaotic Embassy environment and growing diplomatic tensions over the naming of a new U.S. ambassador.

The previous ambassador, Philip Sanchez, who was appointed by President Gerald Ford, left the post on April 5, leaving Drexler in charge of the embassy. Sanchez, a Republican political appointee, was “a disaster” who “did virtually nothing,” according to Drexler. “[W]hile we could not get our act together, the Medellin Cartel did get its own act together.” The budding narcotics syndicate had begun to acquire “sophisticated equipment, planes, telecommunications, money, organization, and made better use of Colombian officials for their purposes than we could for ours,” Drexler recalled of his time working under Sanchez. On top of that, Sanchez had simply assumed that Carter, as the new president, “would keep him on because he was a Latin.” Drexler said that Sanchez “finally had to be ordered out of Bogota” by the State Department. Meanwhile, narcotraffickers grew in strength, numbers, and capabilities. “[A]s we got into 1977, they were well advanced in the cartelization of the supply side, and we were way behind in even recognizing, to say nothing of meeting[,] the problem.”

Carter’s first replacement for Sanchez, José A. Cabranes, a political appointee with personal ties to Secretary of State Vance, was “another slap in the face” to López, who for months refused to issue him credentials, and by the time he finally did so, Cabranes had withdrawn himself from consideration. It was thus left to Drexler, as Chargé d’affaires, to run the U.S. Embassy, as he put it, “for about 10 months in 1977” during “a formative period for the drug cartels.” As the ranking official, Drexler was a participant, notetaker and eyewitness as the Carter administration’s emissaries attempted to gain Colombia’s cooperation in narcotics enforcement by pressuring the Colombian president to clean house. [3]

Carter’s hands-on approach to López during this tumultuous time combined an apparent gesture of goodwill—Carter was sharing highly sensitive information from U.S. narcotics investigations with the Colombian president—with an intimidating show of strength—the U.S. was building law enforcement dossiers on corrupt officials in the López government. The Carter administration made clear that U.S. cooperation on other issues important to Colombia—the delivery of promised military helicopters; a favorable U.S. decision over disputed Caribbean islands—was contingent on the U.S. receiving assurances from López that Colombia was serious about taking on drugs.

Just as unprecedented as the presidential intelligence briefing was the role of First Lady Rosalynn Carter in setting the stage for the President’s confrontational approach to drug corruption in Colombia. The idea of employing Mrs. Carter to deliver a “substantive” message to López during her seven-country tour of Latin America in June 1977 seemed to surprise the Colombians during preparations for her visit, irking Drexler, who, in a cable to Washington, accused the López government of doing the “bare, protocolary minimum” for the First Lady’s planned stop in Bogotá and for treating her visit it as a “ladies-only social event.” ( Document 10 )

In fact, Mrs. Carter’s talks with López covered a wide range of policy issues, including nuclear nonproliferation, the Panama Canal treaty negotiations, U.S. relations with Cuba, and a new U.S. approach to foreign relations, emphasized by President Carter, that for the first time made human rights a factor in national security policymaking. ( Document 15 )

But her most important message to the Colombian president was about the alarmingly widespread nature of drug-related corruption at senior levels of the Colombian government and the need for López to act if he wanted to improve U.S.-Colombia counternarcotics cooperation. Mrs. Carter encouraged López to meet the following month with the head of the White House drug control office, Peter Bourne, and Mathea Falco, the State Department’s senior narcotics official, to discuss the matter further. It’s not clear from the available U.S. records whether Mrs. Carter mentioned—as López later claimed—that the U.S. emissaries would deliver him a dossier on narcotics corruption. The available evidence suggests not. [4] In any case, it is clear that corruption was a central focus of her meeting with the Colombian president, and that she told López to expect a more detailed briefing from the President’s emissaries soon.

Coming in the first few months of the Carter administration, the First Lady’s visit set the stage for a transformative period in U.S.-Colombia relations, as the new U.S. focus on human rights coincided with increasing U.S. pressure for Colombia to crack down on drug trafficking and narcotics-related corruption. But while Colombia’s human rights record at the time looked pretty good compared to some other countries, reports of widespread narcotics-related corruption in Bogotá made it necessary, in Carter’s view, to extract certain commitments from the Colombian president before the security relationship could resume.

At the time, the focus for Colombia was on three military helicopters promised by President Ford but held up by Carter as his administration reviewed the appropriateness of U.S. security commitments around the world. Narcotics had not been an important issue in U.S.-Colombia relations during the Ford administration, though the two countries did reach an initial agreement for the U.S. to provide the helicopters with the expectation that they would help Colombia find and destroy narcotics-related sites.

In a September 1975 meeting with Ford and Secretary of State Henry Kissinger, it was President López who brought up the subject of narcotics, lamenting how The New York Times had “blamed us” for the narcotics problem, while admitting that, “because of our situation, we are the center of traffic.” He said that Colombia was a “small country” that had been “invaded by people with and without passports, by planes, boats, etc.” and that were “heavily financed from within the U.S.” Throughout that year, the Times had published a four-part series on the international drug trade with Colombia as a primary focal point. [5]

“We don’t have the materials to fight back,” López said, leading Ford to ask, “How can we help?” The Colombian president did not hesitate: “We could use technology and economic help. We could use helicopters to find where the planes land. We catch them all the time.” Previous anti-narcotics aid had been too little, López said, noting that $900,000 from the U.S. was nothing compared to millions of dollars in bribes handed out by the traffickers. “The drug operators are worldwide,” said López. “You can’t deal with the problem by just dealing with it in the U.S.” ( Document 1 ) The next day, Ford told López that there would be $1.3 million in narcotics aid to Colombia in 1976, which he called “a huge increase,” and that his administration would also “look into the purchase of helicopters if necessary.” ( Document 2 )

Records from the first months of the Carter administration reveal that Carter took an active role in the initial decision to hold up delivery of the helicopters until they were confident that the Colombian government would crack down on corruption. Documents found in the RAC collection indicate that the issue came to a head during the first week of June and that Bourne, in particular, helped push the President to strike a more confrontational posture. Bourne’s June 2 memo to the President on “Cocaine trafficking in Colombia” provided talking points on the matter for the First Lady’s upcoming meeting with President López and pleaded with Carter to use the helicopter issue, “one of the only points of leverage we have,” lamenting that, “Some people at the State Department are willing to just give them the helicopters to avoid conflict.” Attached to Bourne’s memo was a one-page summary of “Colombian Officials Allegedly Profiting from Cocaine Traffic.” In the margins Bourne’s memo, Carter wrote: “Do not send helicopters - Give me CIA info.” ( Document 13 ) Around the same time, on June 3, the President asked the CIA director “if the Columbians [sic] were using the helicopters we gave them to run drugs,” according to a June 10, 1977, memo from Sayre Stevens, the Deputy Director for Intelligence at the CIA. [6] ( Document 16 )

The First Lady thus arrived in Colombia just as the Carter administration’s new tougher approach to Colombia, including a halt in the delivery of promised security assistance, was taking shape, and her trip was seen as a moment to begin a frank dialogue about corruption. In a reporting cable, the U.S. Embassy under Robert Drexler complemented Mrs. Carter’s diplomatic skills, saying that the First Lady “was especially effective in the manner in which she raised with Lopez and [Foreign Minister Indalecio] Lievano, firmly and forcefully, the [U.S. government’s] concern over corruption in the [Colombian government] … while not offending the thin-skinned Lopez’s sensibilities, which could well have caused a curtailment in [the Colombian government’s] cooperation in narcotics interdiction.” Drexler’s comment no doubt reflected his concern, expressed in an oral history, that taking too hard a line with the Colombian government on corruption could have derailed the entire U.S. counternarcotics effort there. ( Document 17 )

Several other documents from the RAC program published here for the first time show that the President continued to be personally involved in Colombia policy decision-making as the Intelligence Community prepared to brief López about narco-corruption in the Colombian government. Peter Bourne’s memo to Carter ahead of a June 20 Cabinet meeting on Colombia said that the group—consisting of officials from the White House Office of Drug Abuse Policy (ODAP), DEA, NSC, CIA and the Department of Justice—should consider what kinds of pressures the U.S. could apply toward Colombia and what “guarantees” the U.S. should “extract from the President of Colombia before releasing helicopters and other support.” Bourne noted that “Colombia has been a particular problem” with respect to “the lack of government effort in controlling narcotics and widespread corruption.” ( Document 18 )

One meeting participant, William Luers, the Deputy Assistant Secretary of State for American Republic Affairs (ARA), wrote in a memo that “the discussion centered around corruption: which ministers and high officials are involved and how much does Lopez Michelsen know himself.” Luers’ notes indicate agreement that Carter would send a “not timid” letter to López saying that “the President has knowledge of high level corruption” and warning that “the good name of Colombia” could be “damaged.” The letter, which would be hand-delivered to López during the upcoming visit of Bourne and Falco, would propose “the establishment of a high level joint commission to develop maximum cooperation and exchange intelligence information on trafficking and corruption.” ( Document 20 )

Later that day in his “Evening Report,” NSC Latin America adviser Robert Pastor noted how it had been Carter, at the June 20 Cabinet meeting, who had “asked us [Pastor and Falco] to revise the letter which Peter Bourne will deliver to President Lopez Michelsen on Wednesday.” The President wanted the letter and his emissaries “to make clear to Lopez that the President is aware of the degree of corruption in the Colombian Government and feels that further cooperation between our two governments will depend on whether President Lopez addresses this issue effectively.” According to Pastor, it was Carter who had wanted to name the Colombian defense minister. “[T]he President was so much stronger on this issue than the rest of us,” Pastor wrote in a June 27 memo, “that Mathea [Falco] and I thought we should include it.” According to Pastor, Carter himself thought “that it was curious that he should be bolder than his advisors.” ( Document 19 )

But Brzezinski was concerned that the letter drafted by Pastor and Falco and desired by Carter was too inflammatory, noting, in a June 21 memo to the President, that it made “a very serious accusation … but without any convincing proof.” The National Security Advisor shared his “strong reservations about the desirability of pointing so directly at a minister in President Lopez’s Cabinet,” recommending instead that Carter “state the proposition that we have cause to believe that ‘a number of high officials in the Colombian Government may be benefitting from the drug traffic, and go on to indicate that we are in a position to provide such information.” Brzezinski suggested that Bourne “could then point the finger more directly, and hopefully with greater effect.” ( Document 21 )

Dated June 21, the letter signed by Carter and later delivered to the Colombian president did not mention any Colombian officials by name, instead referring to “information which has come to my attention indicating that a number of high officials in the Colombian Government, and several important political figures, may be benefitting directly or indirectly from the illicit drug traffic” and offering him “a complete briefing” on the matter.

During their subsequent trip to Colombia, presidential envoys Bourne and Falco delivered the toned-down version of Carter’s letter to López (which he “immediately opened and read”) and told him that “President Carter has a list” of high-level Colombian officials involved in trafficking and “would be happy to arrange a private briefing” for López by “representatives of the Intelligence Community in Washington.” ( Document 22 )

Accepting the offer, the Colombian president, who was well aware of the Carter administration’s new emphasis on international human rights, seemed to draw a distinction between Colombia and the military dictatorships in Chile and Argentina that were increasingly at odds with the Carter administration over its new emphasis on morality and justice in foreign policymaking. López explained that “if Colombia were a military dictatorship, action could be faster, but Colombia cannot move as easily as a country where there is no rule of law.” Interestingly, in his report to President Carter on the meeting, Bourne observed that the Colombian president “made no move to demand large amounts of money, as we thought he might” but it is not clear what sort of request they were expecting from López.

In any case, the Carter administration was pleased enough with the the outcome of the Bourne/Falco visit to approve delivery of the long-pending U.S. helicopters and several other items that had been held up while Carter sought the Colombian president’s assurances on narcotics corruption. [7] Some of these appear to be related to intelligence, including discussions of a “regional communications project” that got underway shortly after the Bourne/Falco visit, and the idea to include in the briefing for López additional intelligence on opium cultivations. The latter, according to Drexler, was “in the spirit of Bourne/Falco offers of intelligence sharing, would enlist necessary support at highest level for effective enforcement action,” and would prepare the way “for necessary political and bureaucratic decisions for cooperative development of further intelligence and for eradication efforts.” (Documents 24 , 26 and 27 )

The intelligence briefing was given to López on July 21 in Bogotá by Bourne, Bensinger, and Lawrence “Larry” Laser of the CIA. Bensinger told the Colombian president “there is no question that traffickers are helped and protected by some influential GOC officials,” adding that the U.S. government “wanted to share with President Lopez information which we had developed on such corruption, knowing that his sincere interest in attacking [the] narcotics problem will lead him to make further investigations of his own into these matters.” Bensinger then handed the Colombian president “information on about thirty cases which exemplified narcotics-related corruption involving ministerial and judicial officials, military and law enforcement personnel and high-level figures,” according to the Embassy’s cable on the meeting. (Documents 29 and 31 )

Bourne’s memo to Carter on the López briefing said the Colombian president “did not flinch at any of the information” they gave him but that he pushed back on allegations against the defense minister, Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia, who, as Bourne noted, “was the one person on the list he could not move against directly.” Regarding the “F-2” police intelligence directorate, the subject of various corruption allegations in the briefing, López called it “a nest of criminals” and promised “to move aggressively against these people.” Bourne characterized López as “a tired embattled old man depressed by his failure to accomplish more than 20 per cent of his administrations [sic] original program, who is not particularly popular with the people, and who was badly stung by accusations that his sons were involved in illicit financial transactions.” [8] López “had planned to drift through his remaining year in office,” according to Bourne, who credited Carter with reenergizing the Colombian president. “[T]he interest you and Rosalynn have taken in him has lighted a fire under him and given him the energy, clear goals and inspiration to try to redeem himself in the time he has left,” he said, adding, “We have also placed in his hands some powerful weapons.” ( Document 32 )

The news media and U.S. lawmakers continued to spotlight Colombia’s growing role in the international drug trade throughout 1977, and early the next year, first Le Monde and later 60 Minutes published stories in which they revealed the identities of several people named in the list that had been given to López, including presidential candidate Turbay and defense minister Varón. The leak prompted an exchange of letters between the U.S. Embassy and the two officials and considerable embarrassment for all involved. 60 MInutes correspondent Harry Moses said the episode “may turn out to be the Carter administration's biggest diplomatic blunder in Latin America,” and at least some of Turbay’s supporters thought the revelations may have actually boosted their candidate’s chances in the upcoming election. By then, the U.S., with a new ambassador finally in place, had eased the pressure on Colombia, hoping to start fresh with Turbay, whose victory, by that point, seemed certain. (Documents 37-42)

For his part, Drexler said he had come to regret being among those who had tried to tone down the Carter administration’s tougher approach to Colombia and corruption, fearing that a confrontation on the issue would jeopardize what progress they had made in focusing Colombia on the narcotics problem. Referring to Rosalynn Carter’s visit, Drexler said he had “pleaded with her to not follow her husband’s instructions “to take a very hard line with Colombia” and felt that, in the end, he had successfully persuaded the First Lady to downplay the issue: “She met with the President, she touched on the subject of corruption lightly, and went on with confirming that the helicopters would come, as they did.”

“Later I regretted this,” Drexler continued, “and I think I made a mistake, that they were right all along in Washington, that they should have drawn the line then, that it would have been better to have a confrontation with Lopez at that point.” After receiving the helicopters, Drexler said he “was immediately invited on a joy ride with the Colombian Military high command, who it was clear to me thought that they were getting some marvelous new toys, and that they were likely going to divert these helicopters to their own pursuits, rather than have them used for drug interdiction.”

The Documents

Gerald Ford Library

President Gerald Ford begins his 1975 Oval Office meeting with President Alfonso López Michelsen of Colombia by noting that, “We have already agreed that we have no problems.” President López agrees that the two countries “have no problem at all.” Almost before they are seated, the two leaders have neatly captured the state of U.S.-Colombia relations in the mid-1970s. For years the U.S. had poured money into Colombia, much of which was managed by the U.S. Agency for International Development (AID) mission, which, in addition to development projects, ran a wide-ranging “public safety” program that reorganized and revamped Colombian police and intelligence forces. “[W]ith your AID we have decided that we don’t need your help any more [sic],” López says. “You can use the funds for needy countries.” Ford replies, “We readily appreciate your cooperation,” citing “experiences where countries having no obvious need keep on asking” for aid.

After a brief discussion, it is López who raises the issue of narcotics in Colombia, which had been the subject of several articles that year in The New York Times , with reports of widespread corruption damaging Colombia’s reputation as a democratic haven in Latin America. “It is a worldwide problem,” he says, “but because of our situation, we are the center of traffic.” Colombia is a “small country,” López says, that had been “invaded by people with and without passports, by planes, boats, etc., heavily financed from within the U.S. We don’t have the materials to fight back.” Ford asks: “How can we help?” López asks for “technology and economic help.” Helicopters would be especially useful, he says, to “find where the planes land.”

When Kissinger says the U.S. had given them “$900,000 for that,” López compares that to some $250 million in bribes that the narcotraffickers had handed out: “It is too little.” Kissinger says that he had asked Brent Scowcroft “to look into the possibility of helicopters.” Ford asks: “Are helicopters the best way?” López replies: “Yes, to locate airfields and boats.”

On September 26, Ford and Kissinger meet with Colombian President López in the Oval Office for the second time in two days. Returning to a topic from the previous meeting, Ford says he “had a check made on the narcotics,” telling López they would appropriate $1.3 million for the coming year, which he says “is a huge increase” that “gives us an opportunity to charter boats and aircraft.” The President adds that his administration would “look into the purchase of helicopters if necessary.”

CIA CREST database

A CIA memo encloses notes and 8x10 slides for use in briefing Rosalynn Carter on the mission and functions of the CIA and the broader U.S. Intelligence Community, reflecting the First Lady’s keen interest in foreign affairs. The fascinating briefing notes show the extent to which the Agency tried to reassure Mrs. Carter about its mission and operations in the wake of major disclosures about CIA involvement in assassination plots and other illegal acts.

Jimmy Carter Library through the Remote Archives Capture (RAC) program

Brzezinski informs Vance that President Carter had “noted a recent intelligence item” about Colombian cocaine exports, adding that, “the President stated that we should raise this officially and strongly with the Colombian Government.” Carter also wanted the head of the White House Office on Drug Abuse Policy, Peter Bourne, who is copied on Brzezinski’s memo, involved in the issue.

Director of Central Intelligence Adm. Stansfield Turner, the head of the CIA, tells his deputy to “stay in touch with” First Lady Rosalynn Carter’s staff “so we can provide her adequate support” during her trip to Central and South America.

The Deputy Secretary of State tells President Carter that the State Department is “taking action on the disturbing reports that official corruption in Colombia is contributing to traffic in cocaine.” Christopher describes a series of steps, beginning with an approach by Terence Todman, the new Assistant Secretary of State for Inter-American Affairs, on May 9. Todman’s meeting would be followed by the visit of Vance’s narcotics adviser, Mathea Falco, after which the Embassy would propose “specific actions [Colombian President] Lopez can take to deal with the problem.” Until then, the Department would “hold up delivery of three helicopters scheduled for shipment to Colombia under our narcotics program.” In the margin, Carter’s handwritten annotation reads: “ok”.

An undated three-page memo, apparently produced by the DEA in the first few months of 1977, reports awareness of “several levels of corruption in Colombia fed by tradition, socioeconomic pressures and the availability of large amounts of cash.” Corruption is found among “high level” political officials, “all agencies of law enforcement at all levels,” and in the judicial system. Most of the political allegations “converge on one figure in particular,” Julio César Turbay, a leading Liberal Party figure who would be elected president in 1978. Although this document includes significantly fewer names than the July 15, 1977, blacklist, several members of the security forces, including Capt. Harold Lozano Jaramillo, the police intelligence chief in Cali, customs agents, members of the DAS intelligence group, Colombian naval officers, judicial officials, and others.

U.S. National Archives - Access to Archival Databases

“A decision has been made to hold up, at least temporarily, delivery of the helicopters pending demarche on the high level corruption issue,” according to this cable from the State Department to the U.S. Embassy in Colombia. The issue is to be discussed during the upcoming visit to Colombia of State Department narcotics official Mathea Falco.

Jimmy Carter Library

In his “Monthly Narcotic Report” to President Carter, Bourne says that his office is “devoting considerable time and effort to formulating an appropriate strategy for dealing with Colombian cocaine traffic and the pervasive government corruption,” adding that he would like to “discuss this issue with Rosalynn before she leaves” on her trip to Latin America.

Document 10

Regarding difficulties it has had in making arrangements for Rosalynn Carter to meet with Colombian President López, the Embassy says that, “frankly, we were not prepared for Lopez’ decision to do no more that [sic] bare, protocolary minimum in hosting Mrs. Carter’s visit. Moreover, the ladies-only social event, like [the] decision to have Mrs. Lopez go to the airport, apparently reflects president’s idea that this visit is to be treated outwardly at least as a wives’ affair, despite our emphasis on its substantive purpose.”

On the corruption issue, Drexler says that, “Added care … should be taken in handling the narcotics/corruption issue, if it has to be raised. And I think it would be better not to raise it now.”

Document 11

Attached to White House drug policy director Peter Bourne’s memo about priorities for Rosalynn Carter’s visit to Colombia is a highly redacted copy of a document titled “Colombian Officials Allegedly Profiting from Cocaine Trade.” Unredacted names on the list include the leading presidential candidate at the time, Julio César Turbáy (“cocaine traffic involvement”); the National Police commander in Magdalena Department (“Colonel Salazar”), who is said to own a marijuana plantation; and Capt. Harold Lozano Jaramillo, the commander of National Police forces in Cali, who is said to run a cocaine lab.

Following up on the matter discussed in his May 14 “Monthly Narcotic Report #3,” Bourne lists four things that First Lady Rosalynn Carter should stress in her upcoming meeting with President López: 1) that the President and the First Lady were “seriously concerned about drug abuse,” 2) that Colombia has a serious problem with narcotics-related corruption, 3) that the U.S. wanted “a closer collaborative relationship” with Colombia, including high-level discussions; and 4) that helicopters promised to Colombia would not be delivered until Colombia makes a credible commitment to attacking the drug trade. Bourne writes that, “Even with commitment I doubt drug crop substitution programs will work because cocaine will grow easily almost anywhere in these countries.”

Document 12

Noting the continuing delay in delivery of three helicopters promised to Colombia by the previous administration, Vance reminds the President that the holdup “was occasioned by recent intelligence reports indicating that Colombian government officials are extensively involved in cocaine trafficking and that corruption is proving a serious obstacle in the narcotics interdiction effort in that country.” Vance recommends, and Carter agrees (see his handwritten annotation), “to withhold deliver of the helicopters” pending the outcome of an upcoming visit by White House drug chief Peter Bourne and State Department narcotics adviser Mathea Falco.

Document 13

Jimmy Carter Presidential Library

Attached to this memo is President Carter’s annotated reaction to Bourne’s June 2 memo recommending that Carter link the delivery of promised military helicopters to “highly specific commitments” by President López, “including vigorous moves against those in government who are known to be involved in the trafficking.” In the margins of Bourne’s memo, Carter has written:

To: Cy [Vance] Stan [Turner] Do not send helicopters - Give me CIA info. J.C.

Document 14

The State Department acknowledges “the President’s reaction to Dr. Peter Bourne’s memorandum and his decision not to deliver the helicopters promised Colombia under our international narcotics program.” Secretary Vance has “reconfirmed the decision he made on May 3 to withhold delivery pending the outcome of a visit to Colombia by Dr. Bourne and Ms. Mathea Falco” in June.

Document 15

U.S. National Archives - Access to Archival Databases; another copy of this cable was released in Foreign Relations of the United States , 1977-1980, Volume XXIV, South America (2018), Document 240.

The First Lady’s talks with Colombian President López cover a wide range of policy issues, including nuclear nonproliferation, Panama Canal treaty negotiations, U.S. relations with Cuba, and the new U.S. approach to foreign relations that emphasized respect for human rights. López told Carter that the U.S. should not “act as a ‘protector’ of human rights” in Latin America, since this was something under the purview of the OAS and UN. Speaking of efforts by Southern Cone military governments “to form a bloc countering US efforts on behalf of human rights,” López assured Carter that “Colombia had not been welcome as a participant.”

Regarding narcotics, López told the First Lady “that there were few things that had disappointed him as much as his experience with the [U.S. government] with regard to narcotics control. He said the question was whether Colombia was corrupting the US or vice versa,” and complained that the U.S. had delayed for three years the delivery of three helicopters promised by President Ford and Secretary of State Henry Kissinger. Carter told López that “it was impossible to confine responsibility in such a matter to one country” and “went on to observe that the narcotics trafficking had had a corrupting influence on the [Colombian government].” The Colombian president and his foreign minister, Indalecio Liévano, “entirely agreed with Mrs. Carter,” but said that Colombia “does not have the resources to fight back against the traffickers and that the promises [U.S. government] help had never come.” Carter again emphasized “that corruption was limiting the effectiveness of Colombian enforcement action” and encouraged López to meet and discuss the matter with Peter Bourne, head of the White House Office on Drug Abuse Policy, and Mathea Falco, the State Department’s top narcotics official, during their upcoming visit to Colombia.

Document 16

In response to a query, the Deputy Director for Intelligence, Sayre Stevens, reports to the Director of Central Intelligence that the CIA had “no intelligence information suggesting that Colombian helicopters are, or ever have been, involved in narcotics smuggling” and that “US AID Mission advisors” had found “no evidence of any misuse by Colombia of AID funds and commodities.”

Document 17

U.S. U.S. National Archives - Access to Archival Databases

First Lady Rosalynn Carter raised “a number of substantive issues of high priority to the US” in her meeting with Colombian President López, according to this cable from the U.S. Embassy. Although the Colombians had initially “tended to downgrade the importance of the visit,” this “tendency was gradually overcome as reports arrive of Mrs. Carter’s high-level reception at previous stops” on her tour of Latina America. “Mrs. Carter bore down most heavily on the [U.S. government’s] concern over drug abuse in the US, its corrupting influence in the [Colombian government], and in particular, that corruption’s impact on the effectiveness of the [Colombian government’s] enforcement program.” Agreeing with the First Lady, López said that Colombia needed “more and better equipment” that had been promised but never delivered by the previous U.S. administration and which was now being held up by Carter.

“She was especially effective in the manner in which she raised with Lopez and Lievano, firmly and forcefully, the [U.S. government’s] concern over corruption in the [Colombian government] with regard to Colombian narcotics enforcement action, while not offending the thin-skinned Lopez’s sensibilities, which could well have caused a curtailment in [Colombian government’s] cooperation in narcotics interdiction with USG agencies.”

Document 18

This briefing memo for President Carter comes ahead of a Cabinet meeting on “the narcotics environment in Colombia” and “ways to improve” Colombian counternarcotics efforts. Noting that “Colombia has been a particular problem” in term of “the lack of government effort in controlling narcotics and widespread corruption,” Bourne suggests the group consider what kinds of pressures the U.S. could apply toward Colombia and determine what “guarantees” the U.S. should “extract from the President of Colombia before releasing helicopters and other support.”

Interestingly, Bourne mentions how U.S. “efforts in Colombia have been hampered by an ongoing conflict between CIA and DEA over the collection of intelligence data”—a conflict that would not soon be resolved.

Document 19

Pastor writes: “The President asked us [Pastor and Falco] to revise the letter which Peter Bourne will deliver to President Lopez Michelsen on Wednesday, to make clear to Lopez that the President is aware of the degree of corruption in the Colombian Government and feels that further cooperation between our two governments will depend on whether President Lopez addresses this issue effectively.”

Document 20

Deputy Assistant Secretary of State William Luers provides a summary of a White House meeting focused on narcotics-related corruption in Colombia and the U.S. approach to Colombian President López. “Much of the discussion centered around corruption: which ministers and high officials are involved and how much does Lopez Michelsen know himself.” It was decided that President Carter would send a “not timid” letter to López telling him that “the President has knowledge of high level corruption,” warning “about the prospect of the good name of Colombia being damaged,” and proposing “the establishment of a high level joint commission to develop maximum cooperation and exchange intelligence information on trafficking and corruption.” The letter would be hand-delivered to López during the upcoming visit of Bourne and Falco.

Document 21

Carter’s letter to the Colombian president, which was hand delivered to López by Bourne and Falco during their June 24 meeting in Bogotá, says that his administration had decided to make “international drug abuse control a high priority.” Carter asks the Colombian president for information on “the involvement of United States citizens in the drug traffic” and says he wanted to provide López with “some information which has come to my attention indicating that a number of high officials in the Colombian government, and several important political figures, may be benefitting directly or indirectly from the illicit drug traffic.” Carter offers López “a complete briefing” on the matter. Carter says he is “concerned that future cooperation between our two countries will be jeopardized” by the corruption problem and proposes a “joint commission” to “share information” on “the illicit drug traffic.”

Attached here is a revealing June 21 memo to Carter from Brzezinski, who tells the President he has “strong reservations about the desirability of pointing so directly [in the draft letter] at a minister in President Lopez’s cabinet,” presumably referring to the minister of defense. Noting “the question of the reliability of our information” and also “Latin American sensitivity to U.S. interference,” Brzezinski thinks Carter’s letter should simply refer to “a number of high officials in the Colombian Government” who “may be benefitting” from the drug trade and say that the U.S. was prepared to provide López with the details in a follow-up “briefing” by top officials.

Document 22

The memcon from Bourne and Falco’s meeting with President López follows an initial summary provided the previous day and that is published in FRUS. This more-detailed readout of the meeting indicates that the lead item on the agenda was the delivery of President Carter’s letter on high-level narcotics corruption in Colombia, “which Lopez immediately opened and read.” López lamented that previous “constructive ideas in the narcotics field” had “come to nothing,” and that the U.S. continued to delay the delivery of long-promised helicopters. López also noted Carter’s new policy on human rights, saying, according to the memcon, “if Colombia were a military dictatorship, action could be faster, but Colombia cannot move as easily as a country where there is no rule of law.” After discussing other matters, Bourne “called attention to the involvement of persons at high levels in the [Colombian government] in trafficking,” adding that “President Carter has a list of such individuals and he would be happy to arrange a private briefing” for López by “representatives of the Intelligence Community in Washington.”

Document 23

In a memo to President Carter, with copies to First Lady Rosalynn Carter and National Security Adviser Brzezinski, the director of the White House Office on Drug Abuse Policy, Peter Bourne, credits First Lady Rosalynn Carter with laying “the ground work” for an “extremely successful” recent meeting with Colombian President López. “He immediately read your letter,” said Bourne, and “responded very favorable to it.” The Colombian president agreed to a number of bilateral steps to deepen anti-narcotics cooperation and, “most importantly he suggested that he would assign a narcotic liaison officer to their embassy here in Washington to work exclusively on the drug issue.”

Bourne also relayed Carter’s “concern over corruption,” telling López that Carter was “aware of information on many people in high positions in Colombia benefitting from the drug traffic.” López “immediately accepted” Carter’s “offer to provide him a confidential briefing” on the matter. Bourne told the President he was arranging for DEA Administrator Peter Bensinger and CIA deputy director E. Harold Knoche (“Hank Knocke”), who had served as acting CIA director during the first two months of the Carter administration, to take the lead on the corruption briefing for López and that they would provide “specific names.” Interestingly, Bourne reported that the Colombian president “made no move to demand large amounts of money, as we thought he might.”

Document 24

Not long after the “positive outcome” of the Bourne/Falco visit with President López, the State Department in this message approves the visit of another U.S. official to discuss the “regional communications project.”

Document 25

A comment included at the bottom of this memo to Brzezinski from NSC Latin America staffer Robert Pastor sheds some light on how Carter’s letter to López was crafted, revealing that it was Carter himself who favored a tougher, more confrontational approach with the Colombian president. At the bottom of a memo that is mostly about Chile, Pastor tells Brzezinski about something he overheard at the State Department. Upon reading a draft of the proposed Carter letter to López on narco-corruption, Assistant Secretary of State for Inter-American Affairs William Luers had said “I don’t think we should mention the Minister of National Defense,” referring to intelligence linking the Colombian defense minister to narcotrafficking, “but that seems to have been the President’s wishes [sic].” Indeed, Pastor tells Brzezinski that “the President was so much stronger on this issue than the rest of us … that Mathea and I thought we should include it, and if he had second thoughts, it would be easier for him to delete it than to rewrite it in order to add it.” Carter himself had said “that it was curious that he should be bolder than his advisors,” according to Pastor. Brzezinski seems to have been unaware that the defense minister’s name would be included in the draft, since Pastor adds, “If you had called me to ask, I would have be glad to tell you … [B]ut it was finished at 10:00 p.m., and you were gone.”

Document 26

After a briefing from Bourne on the “successful outcome” of their meeting with President López, “The President has authorized the delivery” of long-awaited helicopters to Colombia.

Document 27

The U.S. Embassy, under Chargé d’affaires Robert W. Drexler, recommends that the U.S. also provide President López U.S. intelligence related to “opium cultivation” during the upcoming intelligence briefing on official corruption to help push “for elimination of opium cultivation in Colombia.” This would be done “in the spirit of Bourne/Falco offers of intelligence sharing and would enlist necessary support at highest level for effective enforcement action.” The Embassy “strongly recommends that forceful presentation be made directly to President Lopez” on Colombian opium production to set the stage “for necessary political and bureaucratic decisions for cooperative development of further intelligence and for eradication efforts.”

Document 28

Bourne’s Monthly Narcotic Report to President Carter says, “We are scheduled to provide the promised briefing to President Lopez-Michelsen in Bogota on July 21, 1977. It will be conducted by Peter Bensinger of DEA, a representative of the Central Intelligence Agency under State Department cover and myself.” “The material to be presented has been prepared with exceptional care,” Bourne indicates in the memo, adding that, “consistent with your instructions we will carefully qualify the information we provide making it particularly clear the degree of certainly we attach to it.” Evidence shared with the Colombian president would also include “photos of opium poppies” growing in Colombia, as suggested in the Embassy’s July 6 cable. Bourne also says they will recommend that López “set up, with our help, an Internal Security Division to further investigate corruption.”

Document 29

This untitled report, found among the RAC documents at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library, appears to be the text of the intelligence briefing on official corruption in Colombia that was delivered to President López during his July 21 meeting in Bogotá with DEA head Peter Bensinger, White House drug policy chief Peter Bourne, and Lawrence “Larry” Laser of the CIA. While some of the more prominent allegations in the briefing would come to light in a 1978 broadcast of 60 Minutes —which had obtained a copy of Peter Bourne’s June 1 memo (see Document 11)—the full López corruption briefing document, as far as this author knows, including the identities of some three dozen allegedly corrupt officials, has never before been published. The text of the López briefing even somehow evaded the finely honed searches of the State Department’s history staff, who reported the list as “not found” in their 2018 volume covering Latin America during the Carter presidency. One reason for this could be that the document was removed as part of the RAC program at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and then later returned.

The memo is a summary of information acquired by U.S. intelligence and law enforcement sources on narcotics corruption in the Colombian government and seems to address the Colombian president personally. [9] Noting President López-Michelsen’s “sincere interest in attacking the narcotics problem,” the Colombian president is told that the “extent of official corruption in Colombia, especially in the law enforcement and judicial sectors, renders effective enforcement and legal action in the narcotics field very difficult.” Narcotics traffickers and their operations “are greatly facilitated by the cooperation and protection of influential Colombian officials,” without which “they would find it very difficult to operate.”

The briefers inform the Colombian president that the information they are sharing is derived from “law enforcement and criminal intelligence activities in the United States as well as those conducted by foreign governments” and “ranges in quality from solid and detailed to somewhat sketchy” and suggest that “further investigation by your Government would most valuable,” especially in cases of “high-level figures.”

The document lists some three dozen Colombian officials thought to have links to the illegal narcotics business, including prominent figures from political, judicial, law enforcement and military circles. The most prominent person on the list, Julio César Turbay, who would go on to win the next election and serve as president from 1978-1982, is linked to narcotrafficking through his nephew, Anibal Turbay Bernal, who the reports says, “belongs to the narcotics network of Jose Manuel Parra Urrea.” The report says that Turbay’s presidential run “is anticipated by Parra’s organization,” which, as a result of its “multi-million peso investment in Anibal Turbay,” believed it would “be able to choose the heads of the Colombian law enforcement agencies should Julio Cesar Turbay become president.”

Top Colombian officials named in the report include two members of López-Michelsen’s cabinet: the Colombian defense minister, Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia, who the report says had “received narcotics and contraband payoffs,” and the minister of labor, Óscar Montoya Montoya, who is said to “have discussed illicit traffic in cocaine and coffee” with a known narcotics trafficker.

Another key military official singled out in the report is Col. Humberto Cardona Orozco, then the head of INDUMIL, a military weapons manufacturer run by the Colombian government. Cardona, the former head of the Uniformed Customs Police had been “removed” from that position “for narcotics-related corruption,” according to the briefing, which said that Cardona “took bribes from many of Colombia’s leading narcotics smugglers with who he was personally acquainted.” The new position at INDUMIL also “lent itself to narcotics-related corruption,” according to the intelligence briefing,

Other Colombian officials included in the report are:

• Harold Lozano Jaramillo, the former police intelligence chief in Cali, who is said to be “operating a [cocaine] laboratory in his residence in Cali and supplying cocaine hydrochloride at night, traveling in uniform and escorted by his F-2 [police intelligence] bodyguards.” Lozano is said to have been involved in protecting another lab near Cali and to have arranged the release of detained narcotraffickers.
• The former chief of the National Police, Gen. Henry Garcia Bohorquez, who used “his influence to facilitate the activities of several important Colombian narcotics traffickers.”
• Another F-2 official, Capt. Marcos A. Bonilla, who “owned a finca in Florencia where a cocaine laboratory was operating,” according to the report.
• Another police F-2 commander, Lt. Jorge Eliecer Arroyave Zapata, who is said to be “one of the biggest traffickers in Tumaco.”
• Fidel Duarte Sotelo, “a Justice Ministry official” and “brother of Hilda Duarte Sotelo de Robayo,” a known narcotrafficker.
• Arcesio Sánchez Ojeda, a member of congress from Nariño Department who went on to serve as senator and later governor of Nariño. Sánchez “was involved in cocaine trafficking with his brother, Lt. Carlos Vicente Sanchez Ojeda,” a Customs Office official in Buenaventura.
• DAS intelligence officials around the country had been “identified as being directly involved in narcotics trafficking or in supplying information to traffickers,” including Samuel Gutierrez, the DAS chief in Nariño.
• Orlando Ceballos Pineda, the city comptroller of Santa Marta.
• Orlando Noguera, brother-in-law of the governor of Magdalena Department.
• Several Colombian officials who are said to have facilitated the release of narcotrafficker Norberto Moreno Carrillo, including Minister of Defense Varón Valencia, Henry García Orozco, a Supreme Court magistrate in Cundinamarca Department, Martín Suarez Sarabia, a senate official, and Gilardo Ospina, a colonel in the National Police.
• A number of judicial officials accused of having taken bribes from narcotraffickers.
• A naval officer behind a purported scheme to smuggle some 48 kilos of cocaine aboard the Colombian naval training vessel Gloria .

Document 30

The CIA says that U.S.-Colombia drug control relations have strengthened “as a result of last month’s meeting between First Lady Rosalynn Carter and President Lopez.” The U.S. has agreed to $3.7 million in security assistance, including the long-awaited helicopters, “to try to curb the flow of cocaine and other drugs to North America.” For his part, Lopez “agreed to a meeting this week with high-level officials from Washington to discuss the sensitive issue of drug-related corruption in his government.”

Document 31

The Embassy cable on López-Michelsen’s meeting with DEA Administrator Bensinger, White House drug chief Bourne, and Lawrence Laser of the CIA, says the Colombian president was “receptive, candid and forthcoming,” pledging to “set up an elite civilian law enforcement unit to cope with crime and corruption, replacing the F-2 (detective) unit of the National Police.” Bensinger told López-Michelsen that narcotics problems “must be solved jointly by producer and user nations” but that “such cooperation is threatened by narcotics-related corruption,” adding, “[T]here is no question that traffickers are helped and protected by some influential GOC officials.” For that reason, Bensinger said, the U.S. government “wanted to share with President Lopez information which we had developed on such corruption, knowing that his sincere interest in attacking [the] narcotics problem will lead him to make further investigations of his own into these matters.” Bensinger handed the Colombian president “information on about thirty cases which exemplified narcotics-related corruption involving ministerial and judicial officials, military and law enforcement personnel and high-level figures.”

For his part, López-Michelsen “acknowledged that the problem was very bad and indicated that his own reports and information general supported the thrust of the briefing,” though he expressed doubts that the allegations about his defense minister, Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia, chalking them up to “attempts by Varon’s enemies to blacken his reputation and standing with the president.” Still, López-Michelsen admitted that, in Colombia, they were essentially “fighting crime with criminals,” singling out the National Police intelligence directorate (F-2), a key focus of the U.S. dossier, as especially corrupt. The F-2 was “directly involved in murders and kidnappings,” according to the Colombian president, sharing with his U.S. interlocutors his plans to disband the unit and fold its functions into the DAS intelligence organization, which responded to the president, not the military, as was the case with the National Police.

Document 32

Peter Bourne’s memo to President Carter on the López-Michelsen briefing says the Colombian president “did not flinch at any of the information we provided” about narcotics-related corruption in Colombia but pushed back on allegations against the defense minister, Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia. Bourne says he “had the feeling” that López-Michelsen “not only wanted us to know that he knew a great deal more about Varon than we did, but that this was the one person on the list he could not move against directly.” Regarding the F-2 police intelligence directorate, López-Michelsen called it “a nest of criminals.” Bourne tells Carter, “It is clear also that he plans to move aggressively against these people.”

The Colombian president, according to Bourne, “is a tired embattled old man depressed by his failure to accomplish more than 20 per cent of his administrations [sic] original program, who is not particularly popular with the people, and who was badly stung by accusations that his sons were involved in illicit financial transactions.” Bourne says he thinks that López-Michelsen “had planned to drift through his remaining year in office,” but credits Carter with reenergizing the Colombian president. “[T]he interest you and Rosalynn have taken in him has lighted a fire under him and given him the energy, clear goals and inspiration to try to redeem himself in the time he has left,” adding that, “We have also placed in his hands some powerful weapons,” probably referring to the promised military helicopters.

Document 33

In a short letter to President López-Michelsen, Carter says that Bourne has told him of “the considerable progress that we have been able to accomplish together,” since the visit to Colombia of First Lady Rosalynn Carter in June. Carter says that López-Michelsen “can be proud of the aggressive steps” he had taken on dealing with narcotrafficking and expresses a “desire to continue to work closely with you” on narcotics.

Document 34

“President Carter’s offer to provide President Lopez with evidence compiled by US agencies on official corruption in Colombia was unprecedented,” according to this CIA analysis. His meeting in July with a U.S. delegation about the matter was a sign of “steadily improving relations in joint drug control efforts,” according to the report.” For instance, the report notes that, “after hearing information on cases involving ministerial and judicial officials, military and law enforcement personnel, and other high-level figures, Lopez stated that he planned to set up an elite civilian law enforcement unit to cope with crime and corruption in Colombia.” But ultimately the Colombian president’s effectiveness against drugs will be limited by political constraints, according to the report. The same article appeared in the August 6, 1977, edition of the National Intelligence Daily .

Document 35

In a memo to the top State Department narcotics official, State Department assistant legal adviser Louis Fields describes recent U.S. efforts to gain Colombia’s cooperation in the pursuit of Colombians indicted in the U.S. on drug trafficking charges. Among the items listed are the “possible narcotrafficking activities” of the son of President López-Michelsen, Alfonso López Caballero, who was believed to be working at the United Nations in New York City. Fields says that federal prosecutors were being careful with the case, and that, “No indictment will be sought in EDNY [Eastern District of New York] or further action involving this individual without prior consultation” with key officials in the State Department.

Also listed are “Griselda Blanca”—which is almost certainly a reference to Griselda Blanco, the infamous, Miami-based narcotrafficker—and her husband Alberto Bravo, who are said to be “sources and financiers” of the drug trade.

The memo also references so-called CENTAC cases that stem from the DEA’s Central Tactical investigations program , established in 1973 to mount conspiracy investigations against groups “at the top of the criminal hierarchy.”

Document 36

Having eventually reached a modus vivendi with the lame duck President López-Michelsen, the U.S. was soon faced with the harsh reality that a candidate with widely rumored ties to narcotraffickers, Julio César Turbay Ayala, would become the next Colombian head of state. The analysis from the newly installed U.S. ambassador, Diego Asencio, is both reassuring with respect to Turbay—“he is probably an honest politician operating in a corrupt milieu”—and bleak on the general outlook for Colombia—“It seems more likely … that the social and political milieu of Colombia has developed to a point that it is vitually [sic] impossible to organize a political group that would not contain elements associated with traffickers.” The situation was “not all bad,” according to the Embassy, as “the fact that traffickers have enormous liquidity and are becoming politically active … is scaring any number of traditional politicians.” The U.S. ambassador said he was “inclined to believe that [Turbay] is basically a sound individual, functioning pragmatically in a corrupt milieu.”

Document 37

After the foreign and Colombian press reported on allegations that the U.S. had given López-Michelsen a list of corrupt officials that included Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia, the defense minister, the U.S. Embassy’s deputy chief of mission, Robert Drexler, was approached by the prosecutor general of the Colombian armed forces, Vice Admiral Melendez, who said that Varón was “obviously innocent” based on a supposedly strong record against narcotraffickers. According to Melendez, López-Michelsen had told Varón that he had first learned about that allegations about him in a report from a U.S. congressional delegation (“the CODEL Wolff report”), but a subsequent story in Le Monde had indicated that there was another report, presumably the secret report given to López-Michelsen by Bourne and Bensinger in July 1977 (but erroneously assumed by Varón and Melendez to have been delivered earlier by Mrs. Carter). After learning of the second report, “Varon went to see the president again,” according to the cable, and “Lopez acknowledged that the [U.S. government] had given him further information (in addition to the Wolff report)” but told the defense minister that “he did not take [the allegation] seriously and that Varon should not worry about it.”

Melendez suggested that the U.S. might allow López-Michelsen to make the intelligence report public “so that the flimsiness of the charges against Varon would be revealed.” The DCM replied that the “quality and the reliability of the data naturally varied and it had to be held closely to protect innocent people, to safeguard sensitive sources and also to avoid compromising ongoing or future investigations and prosecutions,” but that, ultimately, “It was up to President Lopez himself to decide how to handle any information and reports that we had provided him personally. This particularly applied to their dissemination to other Colombian officials.”

In the “Comment” section, the Embassy notes that Varón is unlikely to let the matter go and further that “Ambassador needs to consult with Varon on several issues,” including “military cooperation in bilateral narcotics control efforts,” adding that, “Varon himself may decide to be especially helpful and cooperative in these matters in order to help disprove the allegations against him.”

Document 38

In an aide-mémoire to the U.S. government, forwarded in this Embassy cable, President López-Michelsen outlines his concerns about revelations in Le Monde and in the Colombian media of the existence of a secret U.S. list of Colombian officials corrupted by the drug trade. Here the Colombian president’s message is being forwarded on to the State Department with copies delivered to Mathea Falco (State Department narcotics adviser), Peter Bensinger (DEA administrator) and Peter Bourne (White House drug adviser).

López-Michelsen opens his message with what appears to be a vague threat. Recalling First Lady Rosalynn Carter’s June 1977 visit, the Colombian president notes that she was the first person to tell him that the U.S. was preparing to share with him a list of Colombian officials linked to narcotrafficking. “It should be noted,” he adds, that Mrs. Carter had also asked him “to accelerate the judicial processes against American citizens involved in such crimes,” including “a person with connections to an influential North American senator, a friend of President Carter.” Citing “limitations proper to the separation of powers,” López-Michelsen implies that there is little he can do to help Carter’s friend.

The rest of the document explains the Colombian president’s concerns about specific allegations in the “ultra secret document” that had been given to him by Carter’s representatives the previous year and in a report issued later by a U.S. congressional delegation. Noting the allegations against Gen. Varón Valencia and the son of presidential candidate Julio César Turbay Ayala, López-Michelsen upbraids the U.S. government for giving “the appearance of truth to gossip picked up in Bogota,” saying that the U.S. “has limited itself to delivering to the government of Colombia possible clues on narcotics traffickers in some cases, and in others, political stories that have circulated for some time and have been collected without any analysis.” Saying that “the good name of Colombia has been compromised by the publication of these reports,” the president ends by noting that “the Communist Party” was “the principal beneficiary of the speed with which such unfounded reports have been leaked”—reports that make it appear that the so-called ‘establishment’ and the government itself is a syndicate of delinquents.”

Document 39

In a cable directed to Bourne, Bensinger, Falco, and others, U.S. Ambassador Diego Asencio evaluates the impact of news stories based on leaked information revealing that the U.S. had given President López-Michelsen a secret list of corrupt Colombian officials. The Colombian president had given Asencio “a personally drafted and closely held aide memoire, which is a species of defense of the GOC’s position in the matter and which he intends to use if further disclosures are forthcoming.” Asencio characterizes the aide-mémoire as “a slipshod document refutable on any number of points and drafted for the sole purpose of creating a political impact.”

Ambassador Asencio nevertheless sees the downside of freezing out the minister of defense, Gen. Varón Valencia, whose name had appeared in the recent news stories. To do so “would risk the current narcotics program which is now beginning to show promise after a sometimes difficult gestation period. The present cooperative framework would probably disappear. We would abandon our objective of building a viable narcotics unit, now with potential to survive presidential elections.” Asencio says that he intends “to meet with the minister of defense privately and encourage him and his agency to become more active participants in the narcotics program as a means of demonstrating his bona fides.”

Document 40

Bourne is concerned about news circulating in Washington that the 60 Minutes television program was planning a story on corruption in Colombia. The story is to be based in part on leaked copy of Bourne’s June 2, 1977, memo to President Carter, which included a one-page summary of some of the more notable names on the longer list that was eventually given to López-Michelsen. Bourne here describes it as “a list of high ranking individuals in Colombia whom we knew to be involved in drug trafficking.” The 60 Minutes story would ultimately air in April 1978.

Bourne is worried about the White House’s handling of classified information, recalling that he had previously raised with Lipshutz “the problem of xeroxed copies of classified memos circulated for comment in the White House ending up in the agencies,” as he thinks happened in this case. Bourne incorrectly assumes, however, that the memo, one copy of which even bears Carter’s handwritten annotation, “was circulated only to the NSC” and not to the President.

Document 41

After leading presidential candidate Julio César Turbay and the defense minister, Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia, published letters to and from the U.S. ambassador about charges of drug corruption that had aired the previous day on the 60 Minutes TV program, U.S. Ambassador Diego Ascencio met with his “own kitchen cabinet” of Colombian political operatives who were divided over whether the allegations hurt or helped Turbay’s campaign. Asencio also reports that he spoken with Varón “and berated him mildly for violating the terms of our agreement,” presumably to not react in a way that would upset U.S.-Colombia relations.

Document 42

This cable reproduces an exchange of letters between U.S. Ambassador Diego Ascencio and two individuals named in a recent 60 Minutes television program about narcotics corruption in Colombia: the leading presidential candidate Julio César Turbay and Gen. Abraham Varón Valencia, the minister of defense. Turbay and Varón had made the letters public on April 6, the day after the program aired.

[1] A footnote in the relevant FRUS volume indicates that the text of the intelligence briefing was “not found” in the files reviewed by State Department historians.

[2] At one point, the document reads: “It is for this reason that we want to share with you the following information that we have developed on narcotics-related official corruption in your country, knowing your sincere interest in attacking the narcotics problem will result in an investigation of your own into this matter.”

[3] The Association for Diplomatic Studies and Training, Foreign Affairs Oral History Project, Robert W. Drexler, Interviewed by Charles Stuart Kennedy , Initial interview date: March 1, 1996, Copyright 1998, ADST.

[4] In a press conference held on a plane en route from Bogotá to Caracas, Venezuela, Mrs. Carter told reporters only that she had “very serious” talks with López about the narcotics problem and that Bourne and Falco would soon be dispatched to Colombia for further discussions about the issue. (See “Drug Traffic, ‘Very Serious,’ Mrs. Carter Tells Colombia,” The Washington Post , June 10, 1977)

[5] See Nicholas Gage, “ Latins Now Leaders Of Hard-Drug Trade ,” The New York Times , April 21, 1975; Nicholas Gage, “ Drug‐Smuggling Logistics Bizarre and Often Fatal ,” The New York Times , April 22, 1975.

[6] Stevens said there was no evidence that any of the 72 U.S.-supplied helicopters, which were in the hands of the Colombian Air Force, had been used to smuggle drugs. (See Document 16)

[7] “ U.S. to Aid Colombia Stop Flow of Drugs ,” The Washington Post , July 8, 1977.

[8] Earlier that year, the Colombian media revived previous allegations about the sons of President López citing evidence that Juan Manuel López Caballero had been involved in possibly illicit real estate transactions.

[9] At one point, the document reads: “It is for this reason that we want to share with you the following information that we have developed on narcotics-related official corruption in your country, knowing your sincere interest in attacking the narcotics problem will result in an investigation of your own into this matter.”