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Great American Railway Journeys: Michael Portillo rides once mighty railroads from New York to Virginia

The tracks that united a vast and varied nation, running past gilded-age mansions and historic landmarks, article bookmarked.

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Louise Thomas

Grand Central Terminal in New York City is a railway temple. I cannot think of a better place to begin a journey of discovery, hoping to understand how the railroads made the United States.

As I cross Grand Central's vast main concourse, I gaze upwards to search for Orion, Gemini and Taurus on the painted astronomical ceiling suspended 125 feet above me. From a high walkway that passes behind the station's cathedral windows, I can look down on the miniaturised crowds scurrying towards their allocated track, or gathering around the fine four-faced clock of the information booth.

A recurrent theme in the terminal's lavish decoration is the acorn, borrowed from the crest adopted by the Vanderbilt family. The founder of the dynasty's fortune, Cornelius, left school at 11 and became the second-richest man in American history, through investment in shipping and railroads. When the tracks running north from Grand Central were put into a tunnel, the Vanderbilts created Park Avenue and made a further fortune from constructing some of the world's most exclusive real estate.

The late 19th century in the US produced what Mark Twain dubbed a “gilded age”. The expansion of the railroads, whose track mileage tripled between 1860 and 1880, was the main driver. Andrew Carnegie, born to poor parents in Dunfermline, Scotland, made a fortune investing in rail stocks, and then manufacturing steel rails at a time of frenzied demand.

There were tycoons aplenty, and in the early 20th century many flaunted their wealth in stately homes on Long Island's so-called gold coast. The first rail and ferry connection between Boston and New York produced tracks running the length of Long Island. When a faster route through Connecticut opened, investors scrambled to convert the redundant Long Island Railroad into a line serving new mansions and suburbs.

I take the LIRR to visit Oheka Castle. It's a “French château” built by the financier Otto Hermann Kahn, who had made his fortune merging railroad companies. Once the second-largest private residence in the US, today it is a hotel. There, I try to imagine the crazy profligacy and frenzied partying of the tycoons, captured in F Scott Fitzgerald's The Great Gatsby.

Nowadays the millionaires' playgrounds have shifted further along the island away from the city to Easthampton and Southampton, whose populations multiply in the summer months. Again, I take the LIRR. I suspect that the wolves of Wall Street more often travel there by helicopter.

Back in Grand Central, beneath the benches in the waiting hall, grooves have been worn into the stone floors by the millions who have passed time there since the station opened a century ago. Many were immigrants – Italians and Irish fleeing hardship and hunger, Eastern European Jews escaping pogroms – recently arrived at Ellis Island and shortly to board trains for the vast American interior.

I take the New York subway down to Battery Park and a ferry over to Ellis Island. Our boat passes the Statue of Liberty, whose torch is stretched out in welcome to the desperate migrants. “Give me your tired, your poor, your huddled masses yearning to breathe free, the wretched refuse of your teeming shore,” wrote Emma Lazarus in a poem which since 1903 has been inscribed on a plaque at the statue. In a single year the island processed more than a million entrants.

The Great Hall at Ellis Island is, like Grand Central, a huge space opened at the start of the 20th century. It provided the first glimpse of American architecture for those millions who waited there to be deemed medically fit or unfit for admission. Some of the lucky ones might choose not to take the train from Grand Central, but to settle in Manhattan. Jacob Riis photographed their cramped and insanitary tenements; the title of his book of shocking images gave the English language an enduring phrase: “How the other half lives”.

“Tycoons and immigrants” might seem to summarise the inequalities of the US. But that would overlook how often the American dream came true. Many tycoons were immigrants, and Bob Hope from Eltham and Cary Grant from Bristol did well in America too.

I take the train along the banks of the mighty Hudson River to upstate New York, past Schenectady (where Thomas Edison arrived in 1886 to found his machine company which became General Electric) and Rochester (where George Eastman started the Kodak company in 1888). Arriving at Niagara Falls, I have a feel for the vastness of the US, since after a journey equivalent to London to Edinburgh, my progress scarcely registers on the map of the continent.

In the early part of the 19th century, some Americans feared that the country was too big to hold together. It took weeks to travel from Washington to Chicago, and months to San Francisco. Was such a vast country governable, or might it descend into chaos: warring states on the model of Europe? The railroads removed the geographical threat to unity. In 1861, the president-elect, Abraham Lincoln, could travel from his home in Springfield, Illinois, to his inauguration in the capital largely by train. After 1869, San Francisco was just six days away from New York City.

The classical columns of Philadelphia's 30th Street station provide my gateway to considering the foundation of the United States. The Liberty Bell, imported from Whitechapel in London, already hung in the Pennsylvania State House when the Founding Fathers signed the Declaration of Independence there on 8 July 1776.

Two hundred and forty years ago an exceptional group that included Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, John Hancock and John Adams, committed itself to uplifting and enlightened ideals. “We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty and the pursuit of Happiness.” Americans came to view their country as “a shining city on a hill” with a Manifest Destiny to carry its example ever further afield. Indeed, the ambitious principles of the Declaration, revolutionary in their day, inspire a hundred democracies today.

But the United States were born with a founding flaw: the original sin of slavery. Men might have been created equal but they did not live equally in America. Even Jefferson and the first president, George Washington, owned slaves. The Founding Fathers did not address the fearful contradiction, and it was to tear the United States apart after Lincoln's election in 1860.

The American Civil War was fought to preserve the Union as 11 southern states seceded to form the Confederacy. In Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, I stand on the station platform at which Lincoln alighted in November 1863. He was to speak at the dedication of the cemetery for Union soldiers killed in the battle earlier in the year. In a few words – now known as the Gettysburg Address – he called for a rebirth of freedom. Slavery would not survive victory by the North.

My journey also takes me to Manassas, Virginia. In 1861, Confederate forces had moved to block the railroad between the rival capitals in Washington, DC, and Richmond, Virginia, and to protect the junction at Manassas. Rebel reinforcements arrived by train, in what became the first railway war. For the duration of the conflict, both sides laid tracks at a frantic pace. After the war's conclusion in 1865, the railway building boom helped to tie the North and South together, physically at least.

The great stations in New York City and Philadelphia remind us that railroads created enormous wealth. But the aeroplane has almost killed off American railroads, as surely as they had once supplanted the canals. The Pennsylvania Railroad's magnificent Neoclassical station in New York was torn down in 1963 as part of a property deal. Yet it was not enough to save the company from financial collapse.

Moving south from Washington, my trains are frequently unpunctual. Some of the stations are derelict. In any case, platforms become something of a rarity down there, and at each stop passengers who are frail or encumbered by luggage have to be helped down the ladder-like steps from the train, adding to the delays.

But the train in America is not quite dead. A massive engineering project between Manhattan and Queens is redirecting the LIRR into a new subterranean terminal at Grand Central (helping passengers who presently are taken unwillingly across town to Penn station). As part of the regeneration of New York after the 9/11 terrorist attacks, a stunning new rail terminal, designed by Santiago Calatrava, is nearing completion at the World Trade Center.

It is a present day example of the resilience of the United States. Despite its enduring inequalities, during my journey it seemed to me that Americans are still fired by enviable idealism and enthusiasm. Despite falling painfully short of their founding ideals, they are still inspired by the Declaration of Independence and the Gettysburg Address to hope for better, as though their Manifest Destiny might yet overcome their manifold problems.

'Great American Railway Journeys' starts on BBC2 on Monday at 6.30pm

Visiting there

Grand Central Terminal, New York City (001 212 340 2583; grandcentralterminal.com ).

Oheka Castle Hotel and Estate, Huntington, Long Island (001 631 659 1400; oheka.com ). Double rooms start at $441 (£315), room only; mansion tours cost $25 (£18).

Ellis Island, New York (001 212 561 4588; libertyellisfoundation.org ). Tickets to the museum, including ferry transport from New York, from $18 (£13).

Long Island Railroad ( mta.info/lirr ).

More information

visittheusa.com

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Buffalo to Niagara Falls

• Episode aired Feb 9, 2016

Michael reaches the north of New York state in its second city, Buffalo at Lake Erie, which the Erie Canal enabled to develop into a major inland port, pivot of a worldwide grain trade, and ... Read all Michael reaches the north of New York state in its second city, Buffalo at Lake Erie, which the Erie Canal enabled to develop into a major inland port, pivot of a worldwide grain trade, and Industrial central, soon served by a major Railway system. His first Americna rail tour en... Read all Michael reaches the north of New York state in its second city, Buffalo at Lake Erie, which the Erie Canal enabled to develop into a major inland port, pivot of a worldwide grain trade, and Industrial central, soon served by a major Railway system. His first Americna rail tour ends at Niagara Falls, US town, once Industrial, completely shifting to tourism.

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Great American railroad journeys : historical companion to the BBC series

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Michael Portillo is seduced by the Wild West

For the second series of Great American Railroad Journeys, Portillo travelled 3,000 miles by train into the heart of the Grand Canyon – and America’s past

• Bernadette Mcnulty
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Last summer, as the US presidential election was gearing up for the final months of campaigning, Michael Portillo found himself travelling through what would turn out to be one of the key battlegrounds: the Midwest.

“The one thing I really noticed is that everywhere I went, the only stories on the news, good or bad, were about Trump. No matter what you thought about Hillary, she just wasn’t news – she was a dull candidate. That was what made me realise Trump was unstoppable.”

However, Portillo wasn’t in America’s heartlands as a political pundit. He was filming the second series of his Great American Railroad Journeys, and the landscapes he discovered there were far from dull. His first American train trip had focused on the metropolitan East Coast grandeur of New York, Philadelphia and Virginia, but for the sequel, he followed in the footsteps of the original continental expansionists who first envisaged the US stretching out from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

More like this

With the Mayor of Dodge City, Kansas

Even a seasoned traveller like Portillo felt as if he was stepping into uncharted territory: “The East Coast is familiar to me because it’s all about cosmopolitan, international cities. But venturing west into places such as Dodge City in Kansas was totally out of my comfort zone.”

The landscape of the Midwest is as dramatic as the history and the train journey followed the original settlers across the lush plains of the Corn Belt to the rose-coloured deserts of New Mexico. The odyssey was a revelation for Portillo.

“I had a fantastic time. I loved the people I met. By travelling west you get the sense that you are grappling with the heart of American culture – with frontierism and the struggle for the existence that lay behind the creation of the country.”

With members of the Jayhawks basketball team and cheerleaders in Lawrence, Kansas

Portillo took two epic train journeys covering a total of 3,060 miles. The first rode deep into the Wild West, from St Louis in Missouri all the way down through Colorado Springs and into New Mexico and the Grand Canyon. The second trip circled farther north, surveying the grand cities of Chicago, Minneapolis and Memphis, following the path of the Mississippi.

“We are following the first travellers, the early settlers, the wagon trains and then the railroads, all of which broadly follow the river valleys that flow from east to west,” explains Portillo. “To get to know America, you have to know the water, the lakes and the rivers. They are so pivotal to the history of how everything developed.”

Travelling into the heart of America allows modern frontier travellers to sample both the spectacle of city life as well as the epic sweep of the West’s awe-inspiring landscape.

6 of the best US train journeys

Portillo's picks:

1. St Louis

"The first American settlers thought they were civilising the Wild West, and you can see that in how impressive a city like St Louis is, despite how far west it is. Framed by the dramatic Gateway Arch, it has some fantastically grand museums and lush botanical gardens. It was an important port on the Mississippi and the region’s first explorers set out along the river here. Americans love dressing up and you can re-enact the beginning of the boat trip."

2. Colorado to New Mexico

"I don’t usually get much of a chance to relax on the train journeys but the stretch through Colorado to New Mexico is just magnificent. It is just like the set of a western with these jagged Rocky Mountains and not a person in sight, just the train sauntering across the plain. I sat in the restaurant car and watched the sun set over the plain while eating my steak with a bottle of red wine. It was absolutely superb."

3. The Grand Canyon

"I was surprised to find that hotels have been built right up to the edge of the canyon, so I didn’t feel like I could get a sense of how enormous it is. If you don’t have much time, the best way to do this is to get on one of the planes that circle around it. It takes about 50 minutes and it flies just above the top edge of the canyon. The plane has huge picture windows so I could see the epic proportions of this wonder of the world."

Great American Railroads begins on BBC2 on Monday 23 January at 6.30pm

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Great American Railway Journeys: Historic Companion to the BBC Series Hardcover – 25 Feb. 2016

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• Print length 256 pages
• Language English
• Publisher Simon & Schuster UK
• Publication date 25 Feb. 2016
• Dimensions 19.69 x 3.18 x 24.77 cm
• ISBN-10 1471151514
• ISBN-13 978-1471151514
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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ Simon & Schuster UK; Media Tie In edition (25 Feb. 2016)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 256 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1471151514
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1471151514
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 19.69 x 3.18 x 24.77 cm
• 67 in Railroad Travel
• 542 in Railway Transport
• 1,473 in Food & Travel Writing

About the author

Michael portillo.

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Customers find the book wonderful and interesting, with good illustrations. They also say it complements the TV series. However, some customers feel the title is misleading.

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Customers find the book wonderful, interesting, and informative about the history of the American railroad. They also describe it as a good documentary.

"A wonderful & interesting account of the HISTORY of the American railroad which to be fair is an essential part of the Tv's series.however felt..." Read more

"...Whilst it is an interesting account of the history of the American Railroad (a more appropriate title) - it is NOT about Great American Railroad..." Read more

" Very interesting account of another country's railway development ( we seem to obsess about our own!? ),..." Read more

"This is a well written book and the content is well researched and informative ...." Read more

Customers find the illustrations in the book good and compliments the TV series.

"...It has excellent content, good illustrations and looks a good read. Would have had 5 stars if more photos from his trip would have been included." Read more

"Bought this for my Husband. He absolutely loves it. Beautifully illustrated ." Read more

"A good read, complements the TV series ." Read more

Customers find the book title misleading. They also say it should be History of American Railways.

"...However I was really disappointed because it does not match the title ...." Read more

"Good book but misleadingly titled - its about the history of trains in the US, not his trip or even great railroad journeys...." Read more

"The title was misleading . It should be History of American Railways.None of Portillos journeys which I expected." Read more

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Great Continental Railway Journeys

Click here to find upcoming broadcasts of the series. A third series began on 5th November.

You too can follow in the footsteps of Michael Portillo. Ffestiniog Travel provides a comprehensive ticketing service for European rail journeys.

Episode descriptions below are taken directly from the BBC website. Journey details are approximations at the time of first broadcast.

Series 1 Episode 1 - London to Monte Carlo

Leaving London behind, armed with his 1913 Bradshaw railway guide , Michael Portillo follows the most popular route of the Edwardian traveller through France.

His first stop is Paris where he absorbs the atmosphere of La Belle Époque, before he travels south to the Cote D'Azur where he samples the Edwardian highlife and learns why the area attracted the rich and artistic alike. He then ends his journey as he arrives at the gaming tables in glamorous Monte Carlo.

Follow Michael

As in the BBC Documentary the journey starts in the grand St Pancras terminus in London. Eurostar then takes you via the UK's only high speed line to the Channel Tunnel and onto Paris. A change of train, and station, is required in Paris before boarding the French TGV (Train à Grande Vitesse) which whisks you to Marseille. From there follow Michael along the coast to visit La Ciotat, Antibes and Nice using local trains before arriving in Monaco (Monte Carlo). Fares to recreate this journey start from £195.00 for a return ticket in second class. A Paris Visite Card would allow you to explore the Paris Metro and RER network before leaving for Marseille.

Series 1 Episode 2 - Hungary to Austria

This week, after looking around the historic Nyugati station Michael Portillo begins his journey from Keleti station in Budapest. Travel from Budapest to Bratislava, then take a catamaran along the Danube to Vienna. After exploring Vienna travel on the new high speed RailJet service, reaching speeds of up to 200km/h, to Salzburg. Fares start from £135.00 in second class, including a day trip to Bad Ischl but excluding the catamaran. The catamaran cruise can be booked direct with Twin City Liner online. You may wish to include City Travel Cards to explore the cities visied.

Series 1 Episode 3 - Berlin to the Rhein

Michael begins this journey in Berlin, the capital of Germany, which at the beginning of the 20th century was a powerhouse of science and technology. Led by his 1913 railway guide, he then heads west via the picturesque Harz Mountains to the industrial Ruhr Valley to learn how imperial Germany was war ready. He then travels south along the tourist trail of the castle-studded Rhein river and ends his journey in the Rheingau to taste the wines of its age old vineyards.

Begin your journey by travelling from Berlin to Hannover, via Magdeburg. After exploring the city travel to Wernigerode, and allow a few days to explore the "Harzer Schmalspurbahen" (HSB) in the Harz Mountains. Then onwards to Wuppertal for a ride or two on the famous Schwebebahn suspension railway hanging from it's rails. End your journey in style by travelling along the banks of the Rhine, one of our favourite scenic routes , stop in Koblenz if you wish and then finally on to Erbach. Fares start from £210.00 for a single journey in second class including a three day ticket for the HSB and a Länderticket valid on the Wuppertal Schwebebahn.

Series 1 Episode 4 - Switzerland

He begins in the truly international city of Basel and travels east to visit industrial Zurich. He then heads for the glorious Alps and learns how astonishing engineering feats conquered the most challenging peaks, before taking in the striking beauty of Lake Lucerne. Michael's journey ends with a spectacular ascent by train to Europe's highest station, perched atop Switzerland's dramatic Jungfraujoch.

Basel is at the border of Switzerland, France and Germany. Begin your journey at Basel SBB, the Swiss station, and travel through Brugg and Baden before reaching Zürich HB. Then travel onwards to Chur. From Chur travel on the famous Glacier Express to Andermatt, change trains here for Goschenen and the amazing railway engineering that is the Gotthard route to Fluelen. A paddle steamer will take you across Lake Lucerne. The town of Lucerne makes a perfect base for visiting Meiringen, the Reichenbach falls and of course the Jungfrau Railway. The most cost effective way to recreate this journey is to purchase one of the range of Swiss Passes which give unlimited free rail travel on most railways in Switzerland and much more. They also give a 25% discount on the Jungfrau line from Grindelwald, discounted tickets can be purchased on board Swiss trains and currently cost CHF67.50. The Glacier Express requires a reservation costing just £10, and lunch can be prebooked at around £30.

Series 1 Episode 5 - Amsterdam to Northern France

Michael Portillo uses George Bradshaw's 1913 Continental Railway Guide to explore the dazzling cities of the pre-war Low Countries beforing tasting the delicacies of Brussels. He then travels to the French sector of the Western Front, where from 1914 the trains carried a new cargo of artillery shells, with the Edwardian tourists of 1913 replaced by soldiers facing the horrors of the trenches. He will end his epic journey in the forest of Compiegne to hear how, after four years of conflict, the Armistice was finally signed in a railway carriage

Start your journey by travelling from Amsterdam to The Hague, then on another local train to Rotterdam where you change to a high speed train to Brussels. After exploring Brussels travel via Lille to Mons, and onto Albert before arriving in Amiens. From there day trips to Froissey and Compiègne are possible. Fares from Amsterdam via The Haag, Brussels and Lille to Amiens, with day trips to Froissey and Compiègne start from around £130 per person. The journey from Amiens to Froissey and back is now by SNCF run coach, but you could be rewarded by a ride on the steam hauled "Le P'tit train de la Haute Somme" . Trains run most Saturdays from mid April to the end of September, and daily, except Mondays, in July and August.

Series 2 Episode 1 - Madrid to Gibraltar

After spending some time in Madrid start your journey by travelling from Madrid Atocha to Córdoba, this take about one hour 45 minutes on a high speed AVE train. Continue to Sevilla Santa Justa in just 45 minutes and from there to Jerez De La Frontera in a further one hour ten minutes. The journey from Jerez to Ronda is not as easy as Michael Portillo made it appear. Your journey will require changes of trains in Dos Hermanas and Bobadilla, with time for lunch in Bobadilla. The scenic journey onwards to Algeciras. A bus on route M-120 operated by Transportes Generales Comes SA connects Algeciras with La Línea. Passengers must cross the border to Gibraltar on foot (walking time about 5 minutes). Fares from Madrid via Córdoba, Seville, Jerez, and Ronda to Algeciras start from around £130 per person. You may wish to include City Travel Cards to explore Madrid and Seville.

Series 2 Episode 2 - Turin to Venice

Fares from Torino, with stops in Milan and Verona, would start from around £130 per person. You may wish to include City Travel Cards to explore Milan and Venice. We are not able to issue tickets for the Trenord to Como Lago, but as Michael demonstrated these can easily be purchased from newsagents before travelling.

Series 2 Episode 3 - Dresden to Kiel

Fares from Dresden to Kiel, with stops in Leipzig, Braunschwieg and Hamburg would start from around £80 per person. You may wish to include City Travel Cards to explore Hamburg, Leipzig or Kiel.

Series 2 Episode 4 - Copenhagen to Oslo

Fares from København to Oslo, with stops in Malmö, Lund, Göteborg and Trollhätten start from around £90 per person. This includes crossing the Øersund bridge.Book your trip on a Buda Velocipede in advance for 250SEK per vehicle.

Series 2 Episode 5 - Prague to Munich

Fares from Prague (Praha) to Munich (München) with stops in Plzeň, Furth-im-Wald and Nürnberg start from around £54 per person. You may prefer to use Ländertickets such as the Bayern Ticket or Bayern-Böhem Ticket to make these journeys.

Series 2 Episode 6 - Bordeaux to Bilbao

Fares from Bordeaux to San Sebastian with day trips from Bordeaux to Saint Emilion and Arachon, and a stop in Biaritz start from around £73 per person. We are not able to issue tickets for the EuskoTren from San Sebastian to Bilbao, tickets for this must be purchased locally in cash.

Series 3 Episode 1 - Tula to St Petersburg

Trains from Tula to Moscow take two to three hours, the train from Makhackala currently leaves Tula about 4pm, arriving at Moskva Kurskaya station at 7:45pm. There are alternatives through the day. Sapsan services also run throughout the day from Moscow to St Petersburg. The entire journey costs around £110 per person in 2nd class. The line to Tsarskoye Selo is now part of the St Petersburg suburban system and tickets would need to be purchased locally.

Series 3 Episode 2 - Rome to Taormina

There are frequent trains between Rome and Naples, costing from around £27 per person. Tickets for the Circumvesuivana Railway must be purchased locally. The ferry across to Capri can be booked on our website . The InterCity train from Naples to Taormina costs from just £18.50

Series 3 Episode 3- Warsaw to Krakow

There is a frequent local train service between Warsaw and Łodz, travelling onward to Poznan requires a further change at Kutno. Tickets for the Wolsztyn steam hauled trains must be purchased locally. Tickets from Warsaw to Poznan via Łodz and Kutno, and from Wrocław to Krakow would cost around £80. You may wish to consider using the One Country InterRail pass .

If you wish to find out more about European rail travel or would like to book a ticket please don't hesitate to contact us direct on 01766 515630 or email [email protected] . If you would prefer to book a holiday including all aspects of Michael's travels please have a look at the Ffestiniog Travel website for suggested package breaks.

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