trek 930 singletrack 1996

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Trek 930 Reviews

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90s Trek MTBs - Steel frames, rigid forks, 26" wheels

Full list of steel, rigid fork mountain bike models Trek made between 1990 and 1999, grouped by year, containing details on frames and main components for easy reference.

Based on riding style, build level and performance, Trek offered these in two series. The 9XX series , called Single Track , consists of a range of race, competition and performance bikes, aimed at pro riders and serious off-road enthusiasts. The 8XX series , called Antelope until 1993 and Mountain Track from 1994, covers a range of multipurpose models, from commuting and recreation to trail and light mountain biking.

1990 View catalog

Trek 990 Single Track (1990)

Trek 970 Single Track (1990)

Trek 950 Single Track (1990)

Trek 930 Single Track (1990)

Trek 850 Antelope (1990)

Trek 830 Antelope (1990)

Trek 820 Antelope (1990)

Trek 800 Antelope (1990)

1991 view catalog.

Trek 990 Single Track Competition (1991)

Trek 970 Single Track Competition (1991)

Trek 950 Single Track Performance (1991)

Trek 930 Single Track Performance (1991)

Trek 850 Antelope Performance (1991)

Trek 830 Antelope Mountain Sport (1991)

Trek 820 Antelope Trail Performance (1991)

Trek 800 Antelope Sport Trail (1991)

1992 view catalog.

Trek 970 SingleTrack Competition (1992)

Trek 950 SingleTrack Performance (1992)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1992)

Trek 850 Antelope Performance (1992)

Trek 830 Antelope Trail Performance (1992)

Trek 820 Antelope Sport Trail (1992)

Trek 800 Antelope Sport Trail (1992)

1993 view catalog.

Trek 970 SingleTrack Competition Race (1993)

Trek 950 SingleTrack Performance (1993)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1993)

Trek 830 Antelope Performance Trail (1993)

Trek 820 Antelope Sport Trail (1993)

Trek 800 Antelope Sport (1993)

1994 view catalog.

Trek 970 SingleTrack Competition (1994)

Trek 950 SingleTrack Performance (1994)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1994)

Trek 920 SingleTrack Performance (1994)

Trek 850 Mountain Track Performance (1994)

Trek 830 Mountain Track Performance Trail

Trek 820 Mountain Track Sport Trail (1994)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Sport (1994)

1995 view catalog.

Trek 990 SingleTrack ZX Series Competition (1995)

Trek 970 SingleTrack ZX Series Performance

Trek 950 SingleTrack Performance (1995)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1995)

Trek 850 Mountain Track Sport (1995)

Trek 830 Mountain Track Sport (1995)

Trek 820 Mountain Track Recreation (1995)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1995)

1996 view catalog.

Trek 990 SingleTrack ZX Series Competition (1996)

Trek 970 SingleTrack ZX Series High Performance (1996)

Trek 950 SingleTrack High Performance (1996)

Trek 930 SingleTrack Performance (1996)

Trek 850 Mountain Track XC Enthusiast (1996)

Trek 830 Mountain Track XC Enthusiast (1996)

Trek 820 Mountain Track Recreation (1996)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1996)

Trek 800 Sport Mountain Track Recreation (1996)

1997 view catalog.

Trek 930 SingleTrack XC Series Performance (1997)

Trek 850 Mountain Track XC Series Enthusiast (1997)

Trek 830 Mountain Track XC Series Enthusiast (1997)

Trek 820 Mountain Track Recreation (1997)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1997)

Trek 800 Sport Mountain Track Recreation (1997)

1998 view catalog.

Trek 920 SingleTrack Performance (1998)

Trek 820 Mountain Track Enthusiast (1998)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1998)

Trek 800 Sport Mountain Track Recreation (1998)

1999 view catalog.

Trek 820 Mountain Track Recreation (1999)

Trek 800 Mountain Track Recreation (1999)

Trek 800 Sport Mountain Track Recreation (1999)

Acronym for all terrain bike.

Trek's exclusive fork design.

A tube having different wall thicknesses along its length, while its diameter remains constant.

Low alloy steel with a medium carbon content, that gets its name from the primary alloying elements, chromium and molybendium. It has an excellent strength to weight ratio and is considerably stronger, harder more durable than mild carbon steel.

Trek's exclusive fork design using taper gauge tubing and provides a blade with more elasticity for better shock absoption.

The thickness of the tube at both ends is thicker than in the centre.

Shifting system, where part of the handlebar grip rotates back and forth, clicking into each gear.

Low alloy steel that can withstand significant stress before breaking or becoming deformed. The term 'tensile' refers to the amount of stress a material can endure before failing.

Steel tubing connected with socket-like sleeves, called lugs.

Shimano's multi-condition brake system with specialized shoes, levers and cables designed for enhanced stopping power in rain, mud and snow.

A house brand for Trek during the 80s and early 90s.

Optimal Dimension; Trek's large diameter, thin wall tubing design.

Oversize; Trek's large diameter, thin wall tubing design.

Shimano's oversize hub system designed to minimize wheel flex.

Shimano's under handlebar, two-finger shift system, giving riders the ability to downshift more than one gears in one stroke.

Brake lever system that lets riders adjust braking power modulation.

Shimano Integrated Shifting. Shift mechanism indents control cable advance for quick, precise gear changes without over-shifting.

Shimano Linear Response. Friction reducing levers, cables and calipers.

Japanese steel tubing manufacturer for bicycle frames.

A tube having a maller diameter at one end and a larger diameter on the other end.

Tungsten Inert Gas welding is an arc welding process that produces the weld with a non-consumable tungsten electrode.

Trek-designed components. The higher the number ona given component, the higher its performance level.

Three different wall thicknesses along the length.

American tubing manufacturer.

Special all-terrain tubing, developed to withstand demands of off-road cycling.

A lighter weight version of the AT frame set, featuring a triple-butted down tube.

Zero Excess; Trek's guiding principle of making stronger bikes with less material.

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Trek 930SHX Bike Bike 1998 or Older

Trek 930SHX

• USER REVIEWS

Bullet proof steel frame. After 13 years of some hard riding and some down time in the basement the bike is better than new with componet upgrades.

Entry level componets, The Rockshox Quadra 5 was great in 1994, but not to good in 2007. The shock still works though. 27 lbs. is heavy for a hard tail.

The Thudbuster Seatpost turns this hardtail into a short rear travel full suspension bike with better traction than most rear suspention bikes. I'll be riding these bikes for another 13 years and then some. If you can find these bikes on Ebay cheap they are a great deal. Trek stopped making the 930 steel frame a few years ago.

Similar Products Used:

Department store bikes

1996 model: Handling, fit, stability, much more comfortable than many aluminum hardtails I test rode.

Cheap pedals. Rock Shox fork could be upgraded.

I love my '96 TREK 930 SHX. It's a nice sturdy and most of all, comfortable bike and the metallic blue paint is beautiful. I look back and think that the $700 that I paid for it was a little steep, but bikes simply cost more back then. I will probably keep it unless I start riding a lot more this year.

Similarly priced hardtails.

This has been a very durable bike from day one. The only type of maintenance I have had is a couple of flat tires. I regularly have it for tune ups to make sure. This bike handles all terrain easily, it did make my trip from SC to Chicago a bit longer and harder with the big tires but not having a flat tire or any other problems during that trip definitely paid off.

The bike really doesn't have weaknesses for when I bought it, even with the steel frame it was still lighter than other bikes I browsed.

I am preparing for a 2000 mile ride and will definitely be taking this bike (930 shx series)for the trip. Its too bad they no longer sell the model.

Got a 95 model of this bike. Had some problems at first. I have a small frame (the bike and me) and it came set up for a woman (Terry seat, short stem). I have since changed these to a Crossbow and a Specialized Ti stem. I had the same problems most report, the forks and the tires. I put Speed Springs in and put on some Specialized tires (both mods very cheap thanks to mail order) and the bike handles like a dream now. I got rid of the Grip Shift for Rapidfire (only $30 ) also. I just recently made the most expensive mod yet--$80 for a Thudbuster. A great neutral handing steel bike for a good price, needing only a few very cheap upgrades.

My brother's seat tube from his 1996 model of the 930 welded itself to the frame. Apparently he rode it a bunch in the winter - kept it greased up & all, but somehow was mysteriously stuck in the frame. Trek gave him a '97 SH-Whatever, and besides being forced to upgrade to V-brakes (due to frame geometry and mounts) he beats it to death and it still stands tall. I also ride a '96 930, but am paranoid of an identical problem. Keep your parts properly greased and oiled!!!

For the price I paid for my '97 Trek 930SHX, (on sale at $599) this bike is THE BOMB!!!! If you are in the market for a middle of the road (in both price and componentry) THIS IS THE BIKE FOR YOU! I love mine!!!

I've had the bike for 2 months now and it has worked out great. On two trips to Moab, one to Durango and lots of riding around here, I've had few to no problems (bent the rear derailleur dropout once). Some people have complained about the shifting: I spent $15 to upgrade to Rapid Fire since I don't like Gripshift. Also, I weigh about 190, so I upgraded the Indy C springs ($20) to ones suited to my weight (has not made much difference). Overall, the bike is an awesome value: I would have had to spend $800+ to get a ride only a little better (I spent $575 before upgrades). Advice: if you ride one and like it, buy it.Adam

I recently sold my 96 930 and purchased a '97 for about $575. I love it, I think that the upgrades such as the Indy-C shock, the v-brakes, and the 24 speeds make it an excellent deal. I beat the hell out of my 96 and I personally think that Trek has an excellent bike with the 930. My only complaint is that the Tioga Phycho tires do kind of suck, especially when cornering in loose terrain. I also personally like the gripshift, and I plan on entering a few races when I go back to Texas A&M in the fall, as I feel that this is a great entry level race bike.

Bought a 930 non-SHX about two years ago. Love it! I've been beating on it at a fairly bumpy, technical singletrack at Caesar's Creek for the past couple years and it has yet to fail me. It even survived after dragging it on the highway at 60+ miles an hour!

My 95 930 has been a trooper. The solid, predictable feel of this bike is remarkable. The oversized tubing resonates with a give me more feeling on roots and rocks. I've upgraded the bike with bar ends, clipless pedals, and a Rock Shox Mag 21. Althought the STX rear shifter needs a tweak now and then, this bike is generally a point and shoot reliable-as-Lassie wonder. Beat me, it says (yes, my bike talks to me, often), I'm no titanium techno weanie mega buck boutique piece! The purple to green powder finish give this bike the rustic yet stylish look it deserves! Two muddy thumbs up, way up!

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1996 Trek Bikes 930 SHX

Stack and reach vs. category trend.

The Bike Insights Upright/Aggressive scale is based on analysis of a bike’s proportions relative to similar sized bikes in the same category.

RIDER STYLE Single Tack

The 1991 Trek 930 Single Track is designed for the off-road enthusiasts who demands value in an off-road performance bike. Featuring a quality lugged Single Track OD Cro-moly construction, the 930 provides the strength and comfort needed for off-road riding. It features the SunTour X-1 group and Matrix Single Track Comp wheel system for smooth and dependable riding. The 930 is a rugged bicycle that is an optimum combination of both performance and value.

MTB CATALOGUE All models

All 1991 models, all catalogues, original specs for this model.

Frame Fork Handlebar Rims Hubs Pedals Brake Set Derailleurs Cassette Chainrings Cranks Seat Stem Tyres

TT CRMO MTubes Trek CrControl TTemper CRMO Matrix STrackC Sansin 32H SR Low Fat DiaCompe X1 Ct SunTour XC LTD SunTour 13-30T SR X1 48/38/28 SR X-1 Mtx Lycra Gell SR Tube CRMO Mx Cliffhanger

Tioga Avenger

15/16.5/18/20/22

Fork Travel

Original Colours

Gallery Bike by @re-rides

Content © mountain bike catalogue document.write( new date().getfullyear() ); . contact. site by pxxl..

1996 Trek Singletrack 930 (dadbike)

Frame: 1996 Trek Singletrack 930

Fork/Headset: Surly Troll

Crankset/Bottom Bracket: Amazon IXF

Pedals: Rant Trill

Drivetrain/Cog/Chainring/Chain: 9spd

Derailleurs/Shifters: Microshift Advent 9spd

Handlebars/Stem: Soma Dream Riser / ESI Chunky XL

Saddle/Seatpost: Thomson Elite

Brakes: Avid Single Digit 7 (front) / Unbranded (rear)

Front Wheel/Hub/Tire: Sun Rhyno Lite / Shimano Parallax LX / Schwalbe Supermoto-X

Rear Wheel/Hub/Tire: Sun Rhyno Lite / Shimano Parallax LX / Schwalbe Supermoto-X

Accessories: Zefal HPX pump, Axiom rear rack, Wald 582 folding baskets, Velo Orange kickstand and wheel stabilizer

Bike History

Click a link below to see past stages of this bike.

• October 2022
• May 2024 - For Sale

Current Stage Info:

Removed fenders b/c they kept rubbing and shaking. Keeping the Surly rack.

Added over 1 year ago by dickeysezso . Last updated 4 months ago.

As of 4 months ago, dickeysezso has indicated that they no longer own this bike.

walmartmoutainbike says:

Very nice. It's the vision for mine, eventually

Posted over 1 year ago

basket , blue , cargo , child , children , commuter , dutch , family , fat , large , microshift , mountain , mountain-bike , mtb , pub-bike , rack , rhyno-lite , schwalbe , soma , steel , surly , townie , troll

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Trek 930 1998 Technical specs and features

General specs of trek 930 bicycle, wheels and breaking system, frame and body specifications, gearing specs, trek 930 fork system data, other specs of trek 930, trek 930 picture, 930 bike comparison.

Trek 930 VS VooDoo D-Jab (46)

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Trek 930 bike review

Trek produced the 930 bike in 1998 and can be classified as a Mountain bike bicycle, this exact model costs in american market arround $559.99. 930 bike is available in many sizes such as 13 (inches), 16.5 (inches), 18 (inches), 19.5 (inches), 21 (inches) and 22.5 (inches). Trek Mountain bike 930 can be found in a few colors, among these colors Metallized Green . This bike is equiped with 26 x 2.10" IRC Mythos XC tires and DT stainless steel spoke wheel while the rims are manufactured by Matrix Guru, 32-hole. Trek equiped this exact model with Lee Chi TX22 brakes, Lee Chi LV77E levers braking system and Front: System 1 suspension, Rear: aluminum quick release hubs. To guarantee the comfiest ride Trek used True Temper chromoly, triple-butted material for the frame. System 1 high strength material is used on the handlebar of this 930 to ensure the perfect handling while the stems are made of System 1. For the smoothest biking experience Sugino Impel 250, 24/34/42 teeth is used on this bicycle linked to Sachs PC-21 chain that is easily replaceable as stated by Trek , the whole system is connected to a high reliability Grip Shift ESP 700 gear shift levers.

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Old Trek 930 HELP!!!!

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I just recently bought a old trek 930 singletrack with rock shox and I believe it's stock. From what I hear these are excellent bikes yet there age. I am just now getting into biking and am really looking to get addicted to riding and possibly buy a road bike and do several 1000 miles a year. But back to my real question, is there any upgrades I should do to this old bike to atleast make it up to par with the newer bikes out. Im a college student with not to much money but looking to tear up the parks and ride this bike for long distances. Can someone help me with any ideas. I'm a completely newb when it comes to biking and pretty much need to be spoon fed every bit of knowledge. Thanks so much for your guys time  

should I purchase a new fork? should that be the first investment  

Nice cross-post. It's not worth spending much money on a bike that age. Compatibility problems tend to make any upgrades turn into a more complicated, expensive ordeal than you bargained for. Ride the hell out of it, and replace what breaks. If the fork is already broken, you'd probably do best just getting a rigid. Do you know what year it is? Can you give a model for the fork?  

I am not exactly sure what year it is but it has a blue to purple fade with the rock shox, it has to be around 1996  

should i purchase new bike rims or tires?  

Probably not. Nicer tires can make a huge difference in how much fun a bike is off-road, but if the current ones aren't completely worn out, you might start by just doing some riding. Is anything actually wrong with what's on the bike? If nothing's actually broken and the brakes work, the only thing you should worry about upgrading for now is the engine. Does your school have a bike coop or something?  

Probably has a Rock Shox Quadra 5...not much you can do for this fork. Does it still move up and down? If not it may need to be serviced and some new elastomers . Here is a copy of the manual . Everything else I'd just replace as needed...if you really get serious about riding, save your money for a new rig and turn the old 930 into a single speed urban assault bike!  

I had this bike back in the day (still on a trainer in the basement) and it is most definitely the Quadra 5 or 21R. I think '96 was the year the Rock Shox Judy came out and it wasn’t compatible with the 930 leaving the Quadra the best alternative. I had the Quadra 21R on mine but it was not stock. Rebuild the shock and have fun. +1 on saving your money on any upgrades unless something breaks and buy something newer when you can afford it.  

If you want/need to replace your front fork, check on ebay for older threaded forks. There are several new old stock RockShox forks floating about right now as well as some cheap SRSuntour forks.  

My rockshox on it right now are real stiff and barely move I really don't know if it is just old or needs readjustin, should I try to mess with it or just buy a new one?and how much are these old fronts, and what are the best forks for these bikes? Thanks again  

The best suspension fork for the 1994/1995/1996 Trek 930 would be something with 80mm of travel at most and a brake housing stop on the brace. A fork like this hasn't been made in 14 years, so you're kind of stuck with what you have. If you can understand the manual for the Quadra 10, it would be a good idea to inspect the elastomers and remove the lowers for lubrication and inspection.  

I am not sure where you are riding and how technical the trails your riding are but I still have one of these- I use it mostly to pull my kids in a trailer but do hit the trails with it sometimes as well- If your the kind of guy that will keep it and love it rather than leap for the next best thing there is nothing wrong with doing some minor updates - just don't dump a ton of cash in to it- then it is not worth it. I really like the frame and think it is a sleeper - ox chromo- rides pretty well for a hardtail- It is the kind of bike you can have some serious fun on (I had a totally pimped out Santa Cruz Blur LT with way too much cash tied up in it that just sat for a month until I sold it when I first over hauled the 930-) I would recommend going to a local bike shop and picking up a non threaded cast off rigid Fork, a cheap cane creek headset and a threadless stem- I picked one up locally for $15 - but ended up finding a steel surly and am running that now- Run a nice 2.3 or so tire to take the edge off and have fun... cheap fork= no performance gain- just some wallowing cushion... Also If you do plan on riding it off road a lot it is well worth going to V Brakes I still have all of the stock gear- 7 speed grip shifts and canti brakes Shimano STX stuff ... I think it is a 95' - mine came with a threaded rigid fork- here is a link with the specs: http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1995&Brand=Trek&Model=930&Type=bike I have had it built ten different ways from full XTR 950 9 speed stuff to a current build of XT 750/XTR950 stuff - I recently scored a set of White Bros Ti Riser bars- not noodly but right heavy and great vibration/jolt damping- I might have some old stuff laying around that can get you rolling for cheap if your interested  

Attachments

^^^^^^ I always loved that frame color! I love the old Trek 9xx frames! They ride great and the geometry doesn't screw things up for me at all because I'm slow lol. I have a 80mm Skareb up front on my 970. I know folks say that older bikes aren't worth upgrading but for me, at least, it's worth every penny. I love the frames, can afford to upgrade vs buy a new one right now, and find no compatibility issues with today's components except discs. I've had a 930, 950, 970 and 990....still have the 970 and 990 frames and really want do something special/crazy with them as a project. I would have no problem using them as my main ride......wait, one of them is! I'm selling my 9.8 and 6 series and transfering the parts. Unless you need disc brakes at this time ride that thing!  

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1996 Trek 930 Single Track

Cool Features

Bicycle archive

Pictures and some specifications from mostly older bikes. Like vintage Mountainbikes.

Trek Singletrack 930

Trek singletrack 950,  probably from 1995 or 1996.

Cantilevers on this bike, V-brakes came first 1996, and Trek didnt seem to have it on the 96 models.

Cyan is the color between green and blue.

This is Ice Cyan color with black decals, so a 1995 frame. 

Specification 930 from 1995

Available in sizes: 13, 16.5, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5"

Frame/Fork: Trek True Temper custom butted Cro-Moly main tubes & stays; System I Cro-Moly fork.

Drivetrain: Shimano STX with STX rear derailleur & Gripshift SRT-400 shifters. 

Hubset: Shimano Alivio Parallax

Rims: Matrix SingleTrack Pro, 32 hole

Tires: Trek Big Kahuna 26x2.1 or 26 x 1.95inch Tioga Psycho KS

Brakes: Shimano Acera-X M-System

or Brakeset: Shimano Alivio brakes, Dia-Compe PC-7 levers

Pedals: System 1 w/clips & straps

Availabe in color: Dry Ice Green/Dry ice blue fade with blue decals

or Ice Cyan Blue with black decals.

Weight: 26.06 lbs / 11.8 kg.

Down below a 18" / 46 cm frame

Catalog: https://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fisher-Klein-Lemond/1995trek.pdf

Probably 19 size frame, also Icy cyan blue

Compare with Trek 990 and 970 SHX and 970 vs 950

"930 and 950 were the same (TRU OX COMP II) and 970 and 990 were the same (TRU OX COMP III) I believe. Later 970's were even stamped 990 on the BB shell." - blak_byke

"The 970 and 990 always had nicer tubes. "

1993 is the last year of the lugged frame., and should be TIG welded after 1994.

"They are nice frames to be sure. My dad has a minty '92 970 that I've posted here a while back. Some years didn't have both the 970 and 990. If I recall the frames were the same but the 990 got full XT spec while the 970 had mostly DX with some XT bits--shifters, etc." - yo-Nate-y

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/any-differences-between-old-trek-930-950-and-990-frames.618957/

------------------  --------------

 Trek 950. Single track. OX comp2 true temper frame. USA made. 18”. Full STXrc groupset. System2 front hub,bars,stem and seat post.

100% original except tyres.

For more Trek catalogs, check this out!

https://www.restoration.bike/bike-catalogs/trek-catalogs/

----------------  -----------

Video of 1992 Trek 950 with lugs, beautiful!

No comments:

Post a comment, sweet cannondale f700 pictures.

 Cannondale F700 Pics Pretty modified, but very handsomely done. I definatly like it! Photos by M. O'rourke who just bought this bike. T...

How to ride singletrack – essential skills for new mountain bikers

From rocks and roots to jumps and berms, here are our tips to riding your local singletrack trails better

If you are a mountain biker, chances are that you've already ridden singletrack as it's one of the most common types of mountain bike trail . Mountain bike trail systems are often designed around singletrack but it's also common when riding natural trails as well, so knowing how to ride singletrack is one of the most important skills to master as you progress. 

What is singletrack? Well, singletrack trails are usually around 12 inches (30cm) in width, but they might be wider or narrower. Mountain bikes are designed to ride singletrack trails fast and efficiently and even push the boundaries of what can be done on a given trail. 

What can be found on singletrack mountain bike trails varies widely. Some are smooth while others are rocky and rough. Some are designed to be ridden uphill and others are sculpted to maximize the downhill fun. You'll probably encounter rocks, roots, logs, and even jumps and drops.

It's all a lot to take in, but every ride presents a chance to practice new mountain bike skills . Here are our tips on how to ride singletrack, so you can ride your local trails better, faster, and with less effort. 

Look along the trail

One of the most fundamental skills to practice when riding singletrack is to look ahead. Trails that are narrow and technical require intense focus, and looking ahead will help you navigate all of the different features. But even on easier trails, you'll feel pretty awkward if you don't look to where you are going. 

Your eyes will naturally pull your body in the direction that they're looking. So if you are staring at a tree on the side of the trail, you will be more likely to crash into that tree. But if you look ahead at the trail, you'll stay on the trail. 

Riding singletrack fast and fluidly is all about linking together the various sections of the trail. A key component to that is corners. Looking ahead is also beneficial when cornering. Looking down the trail past the exit of the corner will help you ride through the turn easier. 

Pumping the trail

The obvious way to increase your speed when riding any trail is to hit the pedals, but there's another and more fluid way in which you can give yourself more momentum. By compressing your body on the downslopes of undulating sections and then extending your body upwards on the upslopes, you can give yourself more speed.

This motion is called pumping and while it can take some practice to get right, done well it can be just as effective as getting in some quick pedal strokes, but has the advantage of being feeling smoother more efficient. Timing is everything with each pump and a great place to learn the technique is at your nearest pump track. 

Tackling corners and berms

Learning to corner effectively is probably the most important basic skill to master as a mountain biker. The kind of corner you'll most commonly encounter are flat corners. These can be some of the most difficult to get around because traction is often sparse. 

The best mountain bike tires are designed to dig into the ground, which provides the grip and traction that prevents you from falling. On flat corners, the rider has to be more intentional about digging their tires into the ground and finding that grip. This can be accomplished by leaning the bike over and lowering your outside foot so that the outside crank is in the six o'clock position. It's also important to stay balanced on the bike and keep weight over the front tire, as that's usually the first to slide out. 

Trails with berms are a bit easier. Berms are banked turns that are built by trail builders to make corners easier and create a better experience on the trail. A lot of the same flat cornering technique applies when learning how to ride berms , but you don't have to worry about grip as much because the berm provides much-needed stability. 

When the turns get really tight, they turn into switchbacks, which can sometimes exceed more than 180-degrees. These are challenging to ride down as choosing  how to ride switchbacks greatly depends on the corner, they are also used to make climbing up steep slopes possible and easier.

On some corners, you don't have to worry about traction as much. Slight bends in the trail can be ridden without even touching the brakes - simply enjoy the speed and flow. 

Riding roots and rocks

You'll encounter rocks and roots on the vast majority of mountain bike trails, particularly rocky sections of trail are called rock gardens.

Another feature that makes trails more technically challenging is off-camber sections. This is when the tread of the trail is sloping away from the direction of travel. This is another scenario where traction is critical. 

The first step when figuring out how to ride rock gardens and roots is to pick a line. Sometimes there is a clear path through the mess, but other times there are multiple possible paths. Generally, you want to pick the smoothest and quickest looking line, but you have to consider if there are potential challenges with that line. Sometimes the fastest line is not the most obvious one. 

The challenge of riding rocks and roots is compounded when there are wet conditions, as roots and rocks can become slippery. In this case, line choice becomes more critical, and those who know how to ride in the rain will know that it's super important to not touch your brakes when on slippery surfaces in order to not lose traction and quickly meet the ground. 

Hitting jumps and drops

Jumps and drops look super cool to ride but are also quite intimidating. It's important to take things steady and work your way up to bigger features as your skill and confidence progresses. Easier trails will feature alternate lines or jumps that can be easily rolled over. But more advanced trails could feature jumps and drops where air time is mandatory. 

Confidence is a huge part of tackling jumps. Pump tracks are a good place to begin learning how to jump. You can pull up off a roller or small jump to begin understanding what it feels like to have both wheels off the ground. 

Then you can move on to tabletop jumps. These jumps don't have a gap in the middle, so they are ideal for practicing. Tabletops are good for learning how much speed is needed for a given gap as well as controlling yourself and your bike in the air. Finally, once you are comfortable you can move onto double jumps and gaps. 

Drops require a lot of the same skills. Start by rolling off a curb and landing with both wheels at the same time. Then you can move onto bigger drops and more natural terrain. 

Corners, technical features, and jumps and drops are the majority of what you will find on singletrack trails. Once you practice it all and start to become confident in your abilities, the feeling of flying down a trail is unbeatable. 

Remember to practice proper mountain biking etiquette . Lots of trails are multi-use, meaning that you'll encounter hikers and other trail users. If you're not at a specified mountain bike park or trail, there could be uphill riders and traffic too.

Once you've mastered your local trails, there are countless other singletrack trails around the world to explore, with an infinite combination of features. So keep on riding and exploring. 

Ryan Simonovich has been riding and racing for nearly a decade. He got his start as a cross-country mountain bike racer in California, where he cultivated his love for riding all types of bikes. Ryan eventually gravitated toward enduro and downhill racing but has also been found in the occasional road and cyclo-cross events. Today, he regularly rides the trails of Durango, Colorado, and is aiming to make a career out of chronicling the sport of cycling. 

Rides: Santa Cruz Hightower, Specialized Tarmac SL4

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• This topic has 16 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 5 years ago by scuttler .
• Anyone flown Aeroflot recently?

We’re off to Russia a week on Saturday, flying Aeroflot from Heathrow -> Moscow, and then back Vladivostok -> Moscow -> Heathrow a couple of weeks later. Their reputation used to be terrible, have they got any better?

Have a look on PPRuNe for updates and opinions.

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Yeah, I’ve flown them a few times over the last few years (to Armenia and Kazakhstan).

The London-Moscow leg has been fine – short and sweet on new medium sized aircraft with entertainment console etc.. From Moscow onwards its a bit of a lottery in my experience. The aircraft have tended to be older. Food is pretty ropey. In general, flights have been OK but there are annoyances, like people getting pissed up, both legitimately and from openly drinking spirits from duty free (ok that was only one flight).

Flying Aeroflot tends to be cheap, but as my destinations tend not to be in Russia I prefer to go via other carriers when I have the choice. Its not just the in-flight experience, but the airports in Moscow are lacking and a pain to navigate. God help you if you have to change airports!

Cheers Bonni

From Moscow onwards its a bit of a lottery in my experience. The aircraft have tended to be older. Food is pretty ropey. In general, flights have been OK but there are annoyances, like people getting pissed up,

The 8 hours from Vladivostok to Moscow could be fun then…

They fly into the UK and are not on the banned list for flying in Europe so that means they must be fairly safe.

I do Moscow a couple of times a year with aeroflot … TBH it is pretty good. Newish planes, not too tatty and haven’t crashed yet. Food is rubbish … but on a 4 hour flight you can ignore it. And it is no more rubbish that KLMs offerings.

Within Russia, never been …. but pissed up russkies on a plane would be no surprise …. With the tightening restriction on Russia there are not too many other alterantives. Easyjet stopped acouple of years ago …

Aeroflot’s reputation come from the 70s … but I think Ryan Air has taken that crown …

I did Munich to St Petersburg with them last year. It was fine. Not sure about the internal flights though. I’ve heard of mixed experiences.

pissed up russkies on a plane would be no surprise ….

I’ve done Moscow on BA a few times, and there were plenty of them on board there as well!

I did Heathrow-Moscow-Ulanbataar a couple of years ago.

First leg was fine, as good as any other airline. The second leg was 8hours and basic. No entertainment, ropey food, average seats (think Easyjet). Had books, snacks and a tablet so it was fine.

We did an internal flight in mongolia and that was an experience. Felt like a downgrade from the horses we’d been riding.

Sounds like luxury compared with the domestic flight I took on Air Zimbabwe from Harare to Bulawayo. The elderly Chinese turbo-prop looked to be 50% plastic padding.

I’ve only done it once and I was a little nervous about it in advance. Luckily I had food poisoning from the hotel in Moscow which left me sat on a plane soaked through in a cold sweat and filling sick bag after sick bag throughout the flight to Paris. If you get on board already dying then there is no longer anything to worry about.

An old school friend’s dad died on Aeroflot Flight 593 back in March 1994, which apparently was all down to the consequences of a pilot’s son, getting a “tour” of the cockpit, turning off the autopilot. :sad:

I hope they’ve improved, in 1989 I made several flights and as above the international flights were ok, the internal flight was ‘different’.

No baggage check, in fact after checking in I was handed back my case and told to go to gate ‘B’. Gate ‘B’ was a door to the tarmack righ next to door ‘A’.

Walk half a mile to the plane, hand my bag up to the baggage handeler in the hold. Find a seat. None of that allocated seat thing.

Once the seats were all full the last few passengers sat on the floor or stood! Standing room on a plane?!

The flight itself was ok until the go about on landing! I never did learn why we aborted from inside the peremeter fence.

But I’m sure it’s fine these days….

Flew on them lots as a kid. On my first flight the seat next to me had no back to it and it took ages to get going because the pilots were haggling with the fuel guys….

Also all the wrecks on the side of the runway apparently weren’t wrecks… just donor aircraft.

And most of the other passengers seemed to always be in a ‘jolly’ mood….. like really hammered…

I’m sure they are OK these days though.

I pretty sure that’s what most here were probably thinking…

The planes they use internationally have to meet international standards. The ones they use internally, don’t…

I’ve always flown BA to Moscow anyway, so no direct experience.

Both the Moscow airports were crap when I was last there – was over 10 years ago though…

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