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Open Track Wooden Spearfishing Gun

Introduction: Open Track Wooden Spearfishing Gun

What's more satisfying than making something out of wood? The answer is probably, making something out of wood that can also get you dinner as well. Well, I can't really help you actually get a nice sushi dinner using this speargun, but I can show you how basic woodworking techniques and joinery can help you build a beautiful, solid wood spearfishing gun that will stand the test of time.

The gun is also oddly midcentury/danish modern-esque but that's neither here nor there.

What are you gonna need for this build from a tools perspective? A table saw, router, drill press, and chisels are a good start. A hand drill or driver is helpful.

For lumber? Oily hardwoods are the standard. Teak for the most part. However, because I had this rosewood on hand, I went with that. Mahogany, while less oily, is also often used for spearguns as well.

Other items!? GLUE! A couple different kinds of epoxy (although that's not entirely necessary and we'll get into that later".

Items not shown in the video that make the gun functional: power bands and a line anchor.

Now onto the build!

Step 1: Prepping the Lumber

First things first, I'm gonna rough cut everything down to a manageable piece. This ended up being a 50" long gun so I cross cut it just a bit above that to allow for a little error during the initial stages. Then, to take out all the variables as far as twisting and curve over time, I cut this into strips about 5/16 or so for a glue up.

Since rosewood is notoriously difficult to hand plane without a high angle iron, I scrape these down till their acceptable for a glue up with a card scraper. I'm a big fan of card scrapers and manage to keep mine pretty sharp by burnishing them regularly. They're not the best at getting things perfectly flat in the same way a hand plane would, but it gets the job done. If you're one of those fortunate rich folk with a drum sander, this is also a good place to bust that out.

Now rosewood is an incredibly oily wood, so to ensure that the glue up bonds properly, I wipe everything with denatured alcohol to pull out the surface oils. You’ll want to keep wiping this down until the rag runs clear. And if you’re doing this yourself, note that it’s going to take a lot of passes to be acceptable. This is the same process if you're using teak as well.

I applied epoxy as a finishing product on this speargun. However, a number of spearguns, especially the more expensive ones from teak do not have epoxy. If you're going to go that route I would highly suggest using a water rated glue such as Titebond III for your glue up to prevent any later catastrophes.

Then I build a mold for the glue up, which is really some melamine constructed at a right angle and held together with counter sunk screws. This will give me some reference surfaces that I'll use later to mill the glue up square.

Arranging the glue up takes a bit of strategy. You want to arrange the strips in such a way that the forces of the curvature of the strips will counteract each other and keep the stock flat over time. If all the bends are facing in one direction, you’ll likely have a bend in your finished product.

Out of the clamps, I use the melamine mold as the reference surface as stated earlier and joint the exposed top on the table saw. That’ll give me a start to be able to get the rest of the stock nice and square.

Then it’s crosscut to final length.

Step 2: Mortising the Trigger Mechanism

The mortise for the trigger mechanism is measured and marked out. I’m going with the neptonics reef trigger mechanism because it’s relatively cheap and it’s pretty no frills as far as install is concerned. Some of the larger mechanisms such as their tuna mech have rounded ends so you don't have to break the chisels out, but if you're familiar with any of my work, you realize that I'm a big fan of my hand tools.

Then to the drill press to hog out the bulk of the waste. I used a brad point bit but a forstner would have been preferable. The mortise is cleaned up with sharp chisels. Also, since I’m not a spear fisherman, and rather just a woodworker making a speargun, I didn’t realize the top of this mechanism needed to be just proud of the surface, so to cheat on creating a through mortise I ripped the top off on the table saw. Had I just cut the stock down to the begin with to just shy of the thickness of the mechanism, that would have taken care of that step without the fix.

The cross pins are marked and drilled. As well as the line release, and if the mechanism works on a dry fit, we’re good to move on.

Step 3: Roughing the Grip and the Stock

For the pistol grip, I did another lamination on a much smaller scale and the same principles as before will apply here.

Because I’m going to attach the grip with a drawbored mortise and tenon, I’m making a rosewood dowel on the dowel plate.

To cut the track, I run it on the table saw with the dado stack. If you have a router table, that’s also another good option. I make a pass which ends at the trigger pocket, and then flip the stock so the opposing side to the fence, is now resting against the face. Then I start from said trigger pocket back through the muzzle. That’ll ensure that the track is even and centered.

The muzzle needs a little more meat for power bands so I glue and clamp on a cutoff with band clamps.

The grip is cut to angle with the miter gauge and the mortise for the grip is hogged out on the drill press, before being cleaned up with chisels, much as you did before.

The tenon for the grip is cut down on the table saw with a tenoning jig and the miter gauge and all the awkward bits are finished with hand tools. When I mention awkward bits here, I'm referencing the little rear area above the grip. The tenon itself is perpendicular to the mortise, whereas the angle of the grip is not. Therefore, to prevent me from having to make a highly calculated and awkward cut on the tablesaw, the Japanese pull saw was the better option.

The butt end is shaped on the spindle sander before holes for power bands are drilled on the press with a forstner bit. Each hole then gets a chamfer with the plunge router to accommodate for the tugging forces.

And then the whole stock is rounded over with a roundover bit in a trim router.

Step 4: Fine Tuning the Grip and Modifying the Trigger Mechanism

To make the grip more ergonomic, I’m using a power carving disc on the angle grinder and shaping it to fit my hand before sanding down with a drill attachment pad. The drill attachment set is nice because it gets me in all the little nooks and crannys and the kit comes with a wide variety of sand paper grits, after which the whole stock is sanded.

The hole for the dowel to drawbore the grip is drilled, then the grip is dry fit and the same brad point bit is used to mark the center of the hole. After that, the punch marks just a touch toward the shoulder to create the offset and that hole is then drilled. The dowel is then driven in, which will draw the joint tighter together and fix it into place without adhesives. The excess is trimmed away.

The trigger mechanism is designed for more blue water guns with these extra long triggers, so to have it fit behind a trigger guard I cut it down with the angle grinder. I also fine tuned the fit with a file and the drill attachments as well.

With an off cut, I’ll saw out a trigger guard and that’ll get mortised in just ahead of the trigger pocket and glued in place.

I wanted a magnetic track (also known as a mag track), so I’m drilling for some magnets which will be friction fit into the base of the track. No adhesive will be applied there. However, the finishing process with the epoxy will ultimately lock these into place from the outside in.

Step 5: Applying Finish

Then for finish, Mas epoxies was kind enough to send me out some product to try. I started with penetrating epoxy to create an eggshell barrier that’ll help the other layers of finish be applied evenly and seal out the wood from the elements.

Then it’s on to a 2:1 epoxy which will give another protective layer that is more substantial than the penetrating epoxy and gives this gun a little extra integrity from the outside.

As a final topcoat, I’m going with Bristol finish, a spray-able urethane topcoat. This is an alternative to spar finish that will provide for an additional layer of protection as well as an awesome silky sheen. Ultimately I applied around 8 thin coats over the speargun without the mechanical components. The topcoat has a nice feature in that if you apply the coats at approximately one hour from the next, no sanding is required between coats, very similar to lacquer. You could keep on going with the coats if you'd like but I didn't want the speargun to look too plastic with too many layers of varnish.

Step 6: Mounting the Trigger Mechanism and Reel

I’m going to cut down the cross pins to final length for the trigger mech and those will get tapped in with a friction fit in the event the mech ever needs to be removed or replaced. To measure the cross pins, I used a pick and marked the depth with blue tape, and then transferred that onto the stainless cross pin. You can do this process with a number of different methods, but marking a probe and transferring the line just makes sense. I will add, that when tapping them in, use the factory machined end as your entry end first that way you won't risk damage from some shoddy filing and sanding when the end of the cross pin exits the hole.

Then the line release is installed with a friction fit as well, and the reel is mounted with some stainless screws.

Step 7: You're Done!

You're done! You're finished! Rejoice! Pop the bubbly... knock over a trash can. You earned it.

In the event you don't watch till the end of the video, the big flaw here in my first speargun was the fact that the trigger was set a bit too far forward for comfort. The fix for that is to mortise the grip directly behind the trigger pocket. On a redo, I would actually do a double offset and then use the end of the trigger mechanism itself to create the pressure to close the mortise off. That would ensure that the grip is pinned securely and that the trigger is in the correct comfortable placement, which is about 3/4" to 1" back of where it is presently.

All in all, this was a fun build and I'm pretty excited to try another one, perhaps with a different track style, such as an enclosed track.

Let me know if you have attempt one of these in the comments and if you have any questions!

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Keeping the Boat Organized and Safe on Dive Trips

It does not matter how big of a boat you have dive trips always turn it into a mess of gear all over the deck. There is no way around it, it is just a reality of diving. The best thing to do is to have a plan and try and keep everyone organized as best you can.  Here are some ideas on keeping the boat organized and safe on dive trips.

Gear Bags for Keeping the Boat Organized

Gear bags are one of the most underrated components of keeping your equipment organized. Bags can range from a quality fin bag that has some extra storage for other equipment, to a solid duffle bag that can hold all of your gear plus a spare of everything. Finally, there are speargun bags that are designed for travel and to be out on a bouncy panga keeping your equipment protected and organized. All of these bags have their benefits based of the type of diving you are doing. If you are going out on a buddies center console, where storage is limited, try and keep your gear simple. Bring a bag that breaks down and fits in a small space once you have your gear where you need it.

Speargun Racks

One of the best investment you can add to your own boat is plenty of speargun racks. These tend to be available in two varieties, horizontal and vertical. The vertical racks work well if you have the space to safely add them to your boat. Horizontal racks have the benefit of being able to be place under a boat’s gunnels. They can additionally hold fishing rods if that is also a hobby of yours. Having proper storage dramatically reduces the chance of injury from just laying the spearguns on the deck. If you have spent enough time spearing on boats you have probably kicked a spear shaft laying on a boat deck. Needless to say, it messes up your day immediately and dramatically changes the mood on the boat.  

Baskets and Buckets

For bluewater spearfishing baskets or buckets change the game on gear storage. They still take up a bunch of deck space. Baskets keep floatlines and floats organized and easy to deploy. If you’ve ever been on a boat with a bunch of people using floatlines without a system it turns into a tangled mess.  Baskets go a long way in keeping the boat organized.

About Mark Platau

What you can read next, the ultimate guide to selecting your perfect speargun, how to pick the right speargun length for you, properly loading your speargun – factors involved.

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Red Tide Speargun Travel Bags

Free Shipping!! There are a lot of options out there for speargun travel bags. What makes these bags our speargun travel bag of choice is value. Built from high quality nylon with interior padding and strong zippers. You can choose from our day bags or our rolling travel bags. They are great for keeping your spearguns and gear organized on the boat as well as airport travel. The Large Speargun Bags are 190 CM/ 75 inches, The Medium Bags are 170 CM/ 67 inches, and The Small Bags are 150 CM/ 60 inches.

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High Performance Gear Direct from MAKO No Dive Shop Markup

• 540-361-1570

3 in 1 Traveler Pole Spear

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Item Description

Mako spearguns 3 in 1 traveler pole spear.

Perfect for small to medium size fish and perfect for travel, the MAKO Spearguns 3 in 1 Traveler Pole Spear is three pole spears in one. Capable of taking fish weighing as much as 10 to 15 lbs, this 3 piece design measures a whopping 6' 7" and breaks down to only 27.5" long for easy storage and travel and allows you to configure the length to your specific needs.

3 piece: 6' 7" long for normal hunting conditions 2 piece: 4' 5" or 4' 11" long for close range hunting and Lion Fish hunting 1 piece: 33" inches long strictly for killing Lion Fish

MAKO uses a high strength, corrosion resistant, anodized aircraft aluminum spear which will NEVER yield painful fiberglass splinters in the hand (like some inexpensive fiberglass pole spears do when worn down). The connecting joints of the MAKO Pole Spear are supported by recessed flush screw on connectors for a smooth release.

The 3 in 1 Traveler Pole Spear includes:

• Three interchangeable sections for 3 different pole spear lengths.
• One 5 prong cluster (paralyzer tip) with "sure grip" barbs on each prong.
• One full length MAKO "Latex Power Band" for 3 pc and 2 pc hunting.

The 3-in-1 Traveler Pole Spear supports 3 configurations:

• 3 piece: 6 feet 7 inches • 2 piece: 4 feet 5 inches or 4 feet 11 inches • 1 piece: 33 inch Lion Fish Killer

Optional Lionfish Barbless Tip & Short Band

For hunting Lion Fish, you can select the optional "3-Prong Barbless Lion Fish Tip & Short Band". Designed specifically for hunting Lion Fish, the tip has 3 prongs (without barbs) making removal quick and easy, while the shorter band is designed specifically for using just a single section of the pole spear.

Optional Lion Fish 3 Prong Barbless Tip & Short Band

Optional Spearfishing Gloves

These gloves make gripping your pole spear very easy with their non-slip palm and finger coating that also provides excellent cut and puncture resistance when hunting around reefs, wrecks, or targeting lion fish, crabs & lobster.

Non-Slip Palm, Cut Resistant/Puncture Resistant

Optional Converter & 6" Single Flopper Tip

Converts the 5 prong tip that comes with the pole spear to a 6 inch, Heavy Duty Flopper Tip.

Optional Mesh Carry Bag

Not just a typical mesh bag for your pole spear, the Optional Mesh Carry Bag is a complete storage solution for your pole spear and your pole spear tips. The Mesh Carry Bag has 2 separate compartments - A main pocket for pole spears and an accessory pocket for pole spear tips.

The Pole Spear Mesh Carry Bag fits traveler pole spear sections from 22" up to 44" long.

134 Reviews Hide Reviews Show Reviews

Great pole spear.

Posted by Mytchel on Feb 5th 2024

Great pole spear, definitely needs a grip, super portable and easily assembled and disassembled.

3 IN 1 TRAVELER POLE SPEAR

Posted by Kurt Pojer on May 20th 2023

Nice little starter spear, arrived in Ecuador well packed, undamaged including a HD mesh carry bag. The shaft unions are well machined, making for a tight fit, straight as an arrow. Should last a beginner for a few seasons or until ready for an advanced spear.

Nice Spear!

Posted by TC on Jul 7th 2022

Since I live overseas, I have not received mine yet but have used the same spear and that was why I bought one. I like the larger diameter of the spear itself and if feels sturdy and shot well. I do think it should come with a shorter band included. Aside from that? Can't wait to start shooting some more Pez Leon!!

Posted by David Condron on Apr 19th 2022

Sturdy, easy to rig. Very satisfied.

Great Product and Great Shipping Speed

Posted by Best prong spear I’ve ever used. Shipping was fast and came within several days. Unbelievable shippi on Feb 14th 2022

Great product

3 PC pole spear

Posted by Trevor Henry on Aug 18th 2021

Great pole spear but wrap not so much. Bought 20mm heat shrink wrap now works great!!

3-1 traveler pole spear

Posted by Westy on Jul 27th 2021

This is a great pole spear! The connections are machined really well and it’s straight as an arrow!! A great buy

Fine cheap spear, but poor tip

Posted by Will Hearn on Jun 20th 2021

Bought this as a backup spear for a Bahamas trip, and as the primary for my GF who was a first time spear fisher. Super lightweight, quite slow, but durable and easy to travel with, a solid $40 spear. My only complaint is that the 5-prong tip rusted within a few hours of getting it wet. From the time it left the ocean, sat on the beach for an hour or two while I kept spearing without the GF, and then the drive back home to where I rinsed everything with fresh water, clear rust marks had already started. Not the kind that I could knock off with a fingernail either, I had to scrub them with steelwool. The next day, the same thing happen, even though I poured freshwater from my waterbottle on the tip to hopefully prevent the issue. By that night, there was rust on all five prongs. Even though I continued to rinse the spear the whole trip, by the end, it was pretty much a five tined fork of tetanus threat. I emailed Mako and they gave me a figurative shrug, that it shouldn't have happen, and that was about it. The also doesn't fit together super securely, kind of wobbles even when tightened all the way. But, again, $40. I put a JBL slip tip (with the adapter and 3" injector rod from Mako) on this and it's definitely more deadly that way minus the tetanus.

Great for travel

Posted by Sean Leary on Jan 29th 2021

Received the spear and gear promptly and was completely satisfied with the quality. Took it hog fishing in the keys last week!

Great Customer Service

Posted by Bobby M on Jan 29th 2021

Bought 2 Travel Pole Spears - I’m a competent diver but a complete amateur when it comes to spear fishing especially in the Bahamas. Mako walked me through the process and made sure my order was delivered in time for my trip. I highly recommend these guys.

Posted by Ashley Weisner on Jan 29th 2021

I bought for my boyfriend for Christmas! My boyfriend liked that it changed links and everything was easy to put together.

Posted by Juan Gonzalez on Dec 1st 2020

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Home & House Stagers in Elektrostal'

Location (1).

• Use My Current Location

Popular Locations

• Albuquerque
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• Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, Russia

Professional Category (1)

• Accessory Dwelling Units (ADU)

Featured Reviews for Home & House Stagers in Elektrostal'

• Reach out to the pro(s) you want, then share your vision to get the ball rolling.
• Request and compare quotes, then hire the Home Stager that perfectly fits your project and budget limits.

A home stager is a professional who prepares a house for sale, aiming to attract more buyers and potentially secure a higher selling price. They achieve this through the following techniques:

• Rearranging furniture to optimize space and functionality.
• Decluttering to create a clean and spacious look.
• Making repairs to address visible issues.
• Enhancing aesthetics with artwork, accessories, and lighting.
• Introducing new furnishings to update the style.

Their goal is to present the house in the best light. Home stagers in Elektrostal' help buyers envision themselves living there, increasing the chances of a successful sale.

• Decluttering
• Furniture Selection
• Space Planning
• Art Selection
• Accessory Selection

Benefits of the home staging in Elektrostal':

• Attractive and inviting: Staging creates a welcoming atmosphere for potential buyers.
• Faster sale: Homes sell more quickly, reducing time on the market.
• Higher sale price: Staging can lead to higher offers and appeal to a wider range of buyers.
• Showcasing best features: Strategic arrangement highlights positives and minimizes flaws.
• Stand out online: Staged homes capture attention in online listings.
• Emotional connection: Staging creates a positive impression that resonates with buyers.
• Easy visualization: Buyers can easily picture themselves living in a staged home.
• Competitive advantage: Staging sets your home apart from others on the market.
• Affordable investment: Cost-effective way to maximize selling potential and ROI.
• Professional expertise: Experienced stagers ensure optimal presentation for attracting buyers.

What does an Elektrostal' home stager do?

What should i consider before hiring an interior staging company, questions to ask potential real estate staging companies in elektrostal', moscow oblast, russia:, business services, connect with us.