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How Black travelers are reclaiming Portugal

Despite its role in the birth of the transatlantic slave trade, Lisbon is drawing Black Americans looking to escape racism at home.

In Lisbon ’s bairro das novas nações , the neighborhood of new nations, each street is named after a former Portuguese colony: Rua de Angola, Rua de Moçambique, Rua da Guiné, Rua de Cabo Verde.

“Ah, Cabo Verde,” I say to my guide, Djuzé Neves, “your homeland.” Though that’s not entirely accurate—Neves was born and raised in Lisbon—his parents hail from Santiago Island, the largest in the Cape Verdean archipelago. Climate refugees fleeing drought, they found solace in Lisbon’s embrace.

For Neves, this neighborhood embodies more than just geography; it’s a beacon of community-driven resilience. As a board member of Batoto Yetu , an organization nurturing African heritage among underprivileged youth, Neves invests his time in cultivating cultural pride.

I’ve come to Lisbon exactly for neighborhoods like novas nações, a liberating space to escape the rising tide of racial and political stress I’ve been experiencing in the United States. I’m not alone.

On social media, countless Black travelers share tales of feeling marginalized and impotent in the face of systemic racism and police brutality, prompting a surge in overseas travel in search of historical significance, cultural diversity, and a relaxed atmosphere.

It’s not new, this practice of African Americans traveling to foreign lands for a respite from the challenges and frustrations that come with being Black in America. In the 1920s and ’30s, the Soviet Union became an attractive place to visit and explore because it promised a raceless, classless society . In Lisbon and other cities such as Paris , Dubai , and Amsterdam , travelers find memorials and tours that acknowledge the trauma of the slave trade and programs that explore cultural heritage.

Where the slave trade started

I meet Madisyn Brown , a Black 22-year-old video essayist, on the flight from New York to Lisbon. She tells me that her great-great-grandmother was from Portugal. “But no one in my family has been to Portugal despite that connection,” she says.

On the final day of her trip, I reconnect with Brown for a drink on Avenida da Liberdade, a sun-drenched, tree-lined street with wide sidewalks featuring black, white, and sometimes gray limestones mosaics, called calçada Portuguesa . Avenida da Liberdade is Lisbon’s version of Paris’ Champs-Élysées, London’s Regent’s Street, and Beverly Hills’ Rodeo Drive.

( Here’s how Black travel has evolved since the Green Book .)

Brown says her time in Lisbon has been magical. “I felt like a normal person walking through the world,” she says. “I never felt like I didn’t belong. I’m going to miss the positive energy here. America can be a really tough place to live.”

The irony isn’t lost on me—seeking solace in a city with ties to the very institution of slavery that shaped our history. We’ve learned to associate many European nations with colonialism, but Americans are not as familiar with Lusophone culture and history.

Many of us were unaware that Portugal was not just a participant in colonialism; it pioneered the trade in chattel slavery. In 1444, the small nation began transporting sub-Saharan Africans to Europe. In 1526, Portugal transported its first shipment of enslaved people to Brazil, effectively launching the transatlantic slave trade.

( Families are leading a new wave for Black travelers .)

Yet, perhaps our modern “return” to Portugal signifies a crucial step in healing, a reclaiming of collective joy and freedom.

Toby Thompkins, a recent ex-pat from New York, sees Lisbon as a place of reconciliation. “I think that’s what a lot of Black Americans are tapping into,” he says, adding there’s an openness to dialogue and a sense of infinite possibilities, reminiscent of America in the 1970s—a time of acknowledging and confronting racism.  

How to experience Lisbon  

To address its role in the slave trade, Lisbon’s government, in association with Batoto Yetu, has erected more than 20 historical street markers to honor the contributions of Africans and their descendants in 2024.  

Travelers can find the plaques near the riverside Terreiro do Paço , where enslaved people disembarked from the ships that carried them there from Africa, or in places such as Rossio Square , which, for centuries, has been a traditional gathering place for Black people in Lisbon. It is also the location of Igreja de São Domingos , the church where enslaved Africans were taken for their requisite baptism.

( Here’s why you see swallows everywhere in Portugal .)

In the Largo São Domingos neighborhood, which has a sizable African population, a stone bust was unveiled of Paulino Jose da Conceiçao, a formerly enslaved African who emigrated to Portugal from Brazil in 1832. Da Conceiçao, also known as Pai Paulino, was a social justice advocate and worked to improve the working and living conditions of Africans in Lisbon. Also in the works is a memorial to the victims of slavery, the first of its sort there.

In the coastal city of Lagos, in the Algarve region of southern Portugal, about three hours by train from Lisbon, visitors can explore a small museum dedicated to the history of slavery in the town. The museum, Mercado de Escravos , Market of Slaves, is situated on the site where the very first group of enslaved Africans was sold.

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• AFRICAN AMERICANS
• CULTURAL TOURISM

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I Can’t Stop Buying Black Long-Sleeve T-shirts

A black T-shirt is an obvious classic, but what few people realize is that a black long-sleeve T-shirt is an equally important staple, which is why I own more than a dozen of them. Here’s what I’ve learned after touching, trying on, and buying many of them over the past two years: The ideal black long-sleeve T-shirt is 100 percent cotton (blends often irritate my sensitive skin), though there are a few exceptions below that have proven themselves to be just as good. It should have a structured neckline and close-fitting crewneck — borderline mock-neck — that doesn’t stretch out into bacon neck, even after many washings and much wear. I prefer a finished hemline at the waist, so it rests just below my belt.

Typically, if I wear the T-shirt by itself, I size up, as this type of silhouette looks better when it’s more relaxed. A raw-edged sleeve makes the oversize look even more laid back. If I layer with a denim jacket or sweatshirt, my usual size will do. And when I wear the shirt fitted, it needs to have ribbed cuffs.

Below, you’ll find all my favorites, plus a few more that I have my eye on.

I have these in the sand and navy as well as black. This is a beefy-feeling long-sleeve shirt with a boxy silhouette. It’s not fussy about how you wash it, and the ribbed wrists ensure a snug fit, without the sagging I often find in other shirts.

Standard Issue’s tee is one of the few on the list that, when I pick it up, I notice the heft and how soft the cotton is. It’s designed in America from 100 percent ringspun cotton (known for being smooth and durable) and is a substantial ten ounces (compared to Hanes’ Beefy-T, which is six ounces). I appreciate that this doesn’t require any babying; I run it through the washer and dryer without worrying about it shrinking.

Abercrombie & Fitch’s cropped long-sleeve tee looks and feels like a ’90s vintage tee. I sized up to a medium, so it hits just above my waist without being overly cropped. Its boxy cut offers a relaxed fit both in the body and sleeves. Plus, the ribbed neckline adds a touch of structure that holds up well even after washing.

This long-sleeve is the most technologically advanced option on this list, made entirely from recycled grid Polartec. It’s infused with peppermint oil, which you can’t smell or feel, but it’s there, ostensibly, for antibacterial protection and helps the fabric dry quickly. I got a small but should have sized up to a medium. Since it’s more of an athletic cut on me, I’ll wear this when I’m running or hiking.

I like Buck Mason’s Toughknit short-sleeve T-shirt so much I had to get the long-sleeve version. Out of all the shirts on this list, this is the one I wear the most. It’s noticeably heavier than many of the other long-sleeve tees on this list, and the weight helps it drape well. Even though I’ve worn and washed it about ten times, it still looks as good as new: The wide-ribbed reinforced neckline always sits just right around my neck.

Alex Mill’s slub cotton tee is supple and lightweight, and has a reinforced neckline for added durability. I find that this fits slimmer, and I like to wear it with a khaki-colored suit. The neckline sits high, and instead of the ribbed or self-fabric neckband that’s used on many of the other T-shirts here, its binding makes it look a bit less casual. I’ve washed and air-dried this a couple of times, and it gets softer each time.

A few years ago, Reigning Champ reintroduced the slub rib cotton tees from their sister brand, Wing+Horns, which is sadly defunct. I’ve scooped up two more of these in navy and grey just in case they decide to pull the plug on these again.

I’m a fan of artist Matt McCormick ’s clothing line. The weight of the shirt feels like a lightweight sweatshirt, and the fit is more on the relaxed side, which is why I wear this with a lightweight T-shirt underneath. I wash it cold and hang it to dry to avoid shrinkage.

I bought this first in navy, using a discount code, and the quality was so good I had to buy it in black for full price. It’s been garment dyed for a rich color, and it has a slubby texture. The cut feels boxy but not overly huge. The neckline sits high just like the one from Alex Mill so I can dress this up with a blazer or go for something more easygoing by wearing it under a chore coat. I’m considering going for the trifecta and getting one in white.

For less than $25, Quince’s long-sleeve T-shirt is a fantastic deal. The fabric is 50 percent cotton and 50 percent modal, which feels slightly stretchier compared to the other shirts on the list. This long-sleeve T-shirt also has a wide neckline compared to the other shirts and is one I’ll wear more casually to lounge around the house.

Made with cotton that’s been grown organically, without synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, Finisterre’s tee is probably the most ecofriendly one on the list. It has a certain level of stiffness, ​​so it doesn’t drape like other tees on the first wear, and reminds me somewhat of a selvedge pair of denim. It has a high neckline and hidden seams at the wrist for a more casual look. I’ve washed it once so far, and letting it air dry preserves the stiffness of the T-shirt.

Everlane’s long-sleeve shirt is one of the sleekest options on the list. The raglan seams are sewn to look almost invisible and allow the shirt to sit smoothly around the shoulders, and the ribbed wrists are tight but not enough to get stuck midway down your forearms. The bottom hem hits right at the waist.

Billy Reid gave this 100 percent cotton tee a luxurious-feeling sueded finish. It’s the softest tee on this list. I love that the fit is boxy in the body but slim around the wrists and neckline creating a trim silhouette, especially if you want to tuck it into a pair of jeans or relaxed trousers. I take special care of this one by not washing it too frequently, as I hope to have it in rotation for a long time.

The Strategist is designed to surface the most useful, expert recommendations for things to buy across the vast e-commerce landscape. Some of our latest conquests include the best acne treatments , rolling luggage , pillows for side sleepers , natural anxiety remedies , and bath towels . We update links when possible, but note that deals can expire and all prices are subject to change.

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Navigating the complex landscape of racism in travel

• By Isaac AI
• May 17, 2024

Traveling while Black can be a complex experience, with racism and discrimination presenting real challenges in various destinations worldwide. From the shutting down of the NYC-Dublin portal due to racism and indecency to the racial profiling of Black students and the legal battles against airlines for discriminatory practices, the issue of racism remains a persistent concern.

Global efforts to combat racism

Countries are taking measures to explicitly criminalize racism, with nations like Brazil, France, India, Japan, New Zealand, South Africa, Sweden, and the United Kingdom leading the charge. These efforts are a step toward creating a more inclusive and equitable environment for travelers of color.

Legal battles in the air

Black flight attendants have taken a stand against United Airlines, accusing the company of discrimination. This is just one example of the ongoing struggle against racism within the airline industry, which also includes passengers being denied access to planes and racial profiling at airports.

Education and awareness

Understanding the history of settler colonialism and its impact on indigenous populations is crucial. By educating ourselves on these issues, we can become more culturally aware and sensitive travelers, contributing to a more respectful and inclusive travel culture.

As we navigate the world, it’s important to be aware of the challenges of racism in travel. By supporting initiatives that combat discrimination and promoting awareness , we can work towards a future where travel is accessible and enjoyable for everyone, regardless of race.

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New Details about Gilgo Beach Murder Suspect Rex Heuermann's Life Behind Bars Revealed

"I think his hobbies right now are reading books, reading his discovery, sleeping and watching TV inside of his cell," a sheriff revealed of the man who is accused of serial killings on Long Island.

Nearly a year after his surprise arrest, Gilgo Beach murder suspect  Rex Heuermann has adjusted to life behind bars.

Suffolk County Sheriff Dr. Errol D. Toulon Jr. recently shed light on the disgraced architect's "new way of life," revealing to  People  that the suspected serial killer "has become more acclimated with jail life."

"In the beginning he was a little bit more starry-eyed as to his surroundings. Life has transformed over the last several months. He receives visits, he makes phone calls, and he doesn't congregate with the rest of the population because of the crimes he's accused of," the sheriff shared.

Heuermann was arrested last July and has since been charged with the murders of four women —  Maureen Brainard-Barnes , Melissa Barthelemy, Megan Waterman, and Amber Lynn Costello — found buried on Gilgo Beach, an area on the South Shore of Long Island. He's also being investigated as a potential suspect in the murders of Karen Vergata and Valerie Mack, two sex workers whose remains were also found on the South Shore.

Don't miss the latest in true crime: Tennessee Husband Suffocates His Wife as Affair and Financial Crimes Are Nearly Exposed Kansas Dad Helps Catch His Daughter’s Murderer Using Billboards Ace Poker Player Beaten to Death, Dumped in Las Vegas Hotel Stairwell By Gambler with Debts

Rex Heuermann's Life Behind Bars

Heuermann is currently being held at the Riverhead Correctional Facility in Suffolk County, about 50 miles east of his home of Massapequa. The close proximity to his home has allowed his wife, Asa Ellerup to see him.

"Within the first three or four months [of his incarceration] she did not visit him,” Toulon said to the outlet. “Maybe in the last two months she started visiting more frequently.”

Though Ellerup filed for divorce in the weeks following Heuermann's arrest, she purportedly has a "very difficult time believing that the Rex, who she was married to for 27 years, is capable of committing these homicides," her attorney Bob Macedonio told  People .

Macedonio speculated that the visits have been "therapeutic for her" as she tries to understand the events that have unfolded over the past year. 

When not visiting with Ellerup or attending court hearings, Heuermann keeps himself busy with other activities. "I think his hobbies right now are reading books, reading his discovery, sleeping and watching TV inside of his cell," Toulon revealed.

Additionally, Heuermann is able to spend one hour in the prison yard each day so he can exercise, according to Toulon, who said that Heuermann mostly "just walks around."

He's unable to interact with other inmates, as he's been separated from others "for his safety," Toulon said. 

"One of the things that we're very committed to is to ensure that justice is served in the courts and not in our jails,” Toulon explained. "When Mr. Heuermann has to move throughout our facility, we will stop all inmate movement because we don't want someone that may want to bring up their own street credibility or someone that may want to hurt him because they ... may know a sex worker or just do not like people that commit crimes against women and may take it into their own hands."

Toulon noted that so far there "haven't been any issues" with Heuermann or other inmates. "He's been very compliant," the sheriff said.

RELATED: Could Suspected Long Island Serial Killer Rex Heuermann be Tied to This Missing South Carolina Woman’s Case?

The Latest in the Gilgo Beach Murder Case

So far, no trial date has been set for Heuermann, with prosecutors and the defense still in the process of discovery. 

At Heuermann's most recent court hearing, his attorney, Michael Brown, requested files from the FBI's investigation into former Suffolk County Chief of Police James Burke , who was arrested for allegedly exposing himself and soliciting prostitution in a Long Island park in August 2023. Brown suggests that Burke may have been involved in the string of murders at the center of Heuermann's case and that Burke used his position to prevent the FBI from further investigating the women's deaths, according to Fox 5 . 

"Chief Burke has an extremely checkered history in terms of prostitutes and abuse," Brown said. "It seems contrary to common sense that Chief Burke wouldn’t let the FBI in to help with the investigation back then to help with their expertise."

Meanwhile, Suffolk County District Attorney Raymond A. Tierney said that the prosecution has already handed over 422 electronic devices, 388 leads and information about other potential suspects, which Brown requested, per Fox 5's report.

Tierney previously revealed that investigators were able to link Heuermann to the crime through hairs found on burlap  used to wrap the victims' remains. Those hairs were found to belong to Heuermann's wife and daughter, with Tierney saying the tests determined that "99 percent of the rest of the population can be excluded" from the sample.

The next court hearing is set to take place June 18.

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Even with school choice, some Black families find options lacking decades after Brown v. Board

By CHEYANNE MUMPHREY and KIMBERLEE KRUESI Associated Press

Since first grade, Julian Morris, 16, has changed schools six times, swinging between predominantly white and predominantly Black classrooms. None has met all his needs, his mother said.

At predominantly white schools, he was challenged academically but felt less included. At predominately Black schools, he felt more supported as a Black student, but his mother, Denita Dorsey, said they didn’t have the same resources and academic opportunities.

Seventy years after the Supreme Court ruled separating children in schools on the basis of race was unconstitutional, Dorsey said the options available to her family in Michigan are disappointing.

“Segregation is abolished, sure, but our schools are still deeply divided along racial and socioeconomic lines,” Dorsey said. “It makes you think: It’s been 70 years but was it worth it?”

The 1954 Brown v. Board of Education ruling and desegregation orders were only the first steps toward the elusive goal of equitable education . For some Black families, school choice has been critical in finding the best available option. And that has not meant necessarily the school with the most racial diversity.

Integration alone is not what Black families have pushed for over the decades, said Bernita Bradley of the National Parents Union, an education advocacy group.

“We wanted integration with accountability and that’s not what we received,” she said. “That’s why choice needs to exist but we still need high-quality options.”

Dorsey made what she called a “contentious decision” in 2022, choosing Saginaw High School in Michigan, which is predominantly Black, over Julian’s predominantly white charter school.

“I was challenged, and I had arguments with family. But Julian is now getting more support from his teachers and administration than he ever did at his previous schools,” she said.

The Brown decision is seen as a key impetus to kicking off the modern school choice movement. As many white families began turning to private schools as a way to avoid the court mandate, state lawmakers — primarily in Southern states — began launching school voucher programs.

In Prince Edward County in Virginia, which closed all its public schools in 1959 for five years to evade integration, state and local officials gave white families tuition grants and tax credits to attend private schools. No similar options were provided to Black families. The move inspired other states to adopt similar schemes before they were deemed illegal by the Supreme Court.

The arguments for school choice evolved over time.

Some thinkers in the 1960s such as Milton Friedman argued that giving families money to spend on education how they saw fit would revolutionize education, incentivizing schools to improve or be left behind. At the same time, civil rights leaders stressed that choice could equalize education for lower-income families, which overwhelmingly include Black and Hispanic students.

Today, some of the loudest advocates for vouchers no longer approach it as a way to push for social justice, said Claire Smrekar, a professor of education and public policy at Vanderbilt University. Rather, the focus is on parents’ rights and lifting restrictions that may prevent wealthier families from using the programs at schools of their choice.

“This expansion is really extraordinary when you think about it,” Smrekar said. “There are no social justice arguments here for families trapped in poverty and zoned for low-performing schools. The new argument is that everyone should enjoy this subsidy.”

Meantime, conservative attacks on how topics related to race and racism are taught in schools have only added to the appeal of alternatives for some Black families. Some schools dedicate themselves to affirming students’ Black heritage , claiming the mantle of freedom schools that started during the Civil Rights Movement in response to the inferior education Black Americans were receiving in the South.

“All parents want is a safe and caring environment where their child is going to go and they are going to be a partner in my child’s pathway to success,” Bradley said.

Black families also turned to homeschooling in large numbers during the pandemic, driven in part by a desire to shield their children from racism in classrooms and to better meet the individual academic needs of their children.

American schools are more racially diverse today compared to the era of Brown v. Board, but schools have been re-segregating , with lasting academic consequences. Schools where students of color compose more than 90% of the student body are five times more likely to be located in low-income areas, where students have worse educational outcomes.

According to research from Stanford University’s Educational Opportunity Project , the recent increase in segregation appears to be partially driven by school choice. In school districts where charter schools expanded most rapidly in the last two decades, segregation grew the most.

In Michigan, Julian said he thought his mother was “tripping or just going off the rails” to pull him out of a higher-ranked school.

“It wasn’t until I arrived at Saginaw High that I took a second look back and realized that what was said to me and things that happened at the school were not OK,” Julian said. “I was different there because I am Black. But now at Saginaw, it feels more welcoming and I feel included and supported. I feel the difference.”

Janel Jones, a mother of two children in Atlanta, said she has seen the benefits of choice, having sent her 13-year-old daughter and 17-year-old son to seven different schools combined. But just giving parents an option is not enough, she said.

“School choice is not choice if it is not equitable. At the end of the day, liberation directly affects our economic outcome, and as parents we have to make sure these educational systems are challenging academically but also meet their needs as members of society,” Jones said.

It is not as simple as sending children to an all-Black school, she said.

“Your child is protected, but also coddled. You have not learned how to understand and deal with microaggressions you are guaranteed to face when you get your first job. That’s the educational part we as Black parents also have to teach our kids and that’s not going to change any time soon,” she said.

AP journalists Sharon Lurye in New Orleans and Jeff Amy in Atlanta contributed to this report.

The Associated Press’ education coverage receives financial support from multiple private foundations. AP is solely responsible for all content. Find AP’s standards for working with philanthropies, a list of supporters and funded coverage areas at AP.org .

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Radio Free Europe identified Black's girlfriend as Vladivostok native Aleksandra Vashchuk , and grabbed clips from her Tik Tok account showing her and Black in South Korea together before the account was taken private on Tuesday.

Prep for the polls: See who is running for president and compare where they stand on key issues in our Voter Guide

in one video, Black appears to share Kremlin talking points, telling Vashchuk's followers that NATO's behavior was "pretty aggressive," RFE reported. Another video shows Black in uniform, wearing a patch of the Eighth Army's Wightman NCO Academy , as a woman identified as Vaschuk narrates in Russian.

The staff sergeant's arrest had echoes of the case of troubled Army Pvt. Travis King , who caused an international incident in July 2023 by bolting across the border from South Korea into North Korea, where he was held prisoner for two and a half months.

But U.S. officials said they didn't consider Black a deserter. The Russian Foreign Ministry said Black's case had no political element and that there were no allegations of espionage.

"As far as we understand, this is a purely everyday crime," the TASS state news agency cited the ministry's Vladivostok branch as saying.

Reporter's notebook: Finland: Happiness, saunas, NATO and the Russian threat

Criminal cases against Americans in Russia have assumed diplomatic significance in recent years, including a drugs case against WNBA star Brittney Griner , freed last year in a prisoner swap, and espionage charges against Evan Gershkovich, a Wall Street Journal reporter , which he, his employer, and the U.S. government deny. Washington has officially designated Gershkovich and Paul Whelan , a former Marine convicted of spying, as "wrongfully detained.

The Vladivostok court said Black would be detained at least until July 2, according to the RIA news agency. The U.S. Army said Black was an Iraq and Afghanistan veteran who joined the military in 2008.

Staff sergeant flew to Russia without U.S. Army permission

Black was being "out-processed" from U.S. Forces Korea to Fort Cavazos, Texas, when, instead boarding a flight to the U.S., he traveled "through China to Vladivostok, Russia, for personal reasons," Army spokesperson Cynthia Smith said in a statement.

"Black did not request official clearance and DoD did not authorize his travel to China and Russia," Smith said, referring to the Defense Department. She said there was "no evidence Black intended to remain in Russia" when his time off ended.

More: Putin admits 'radical Islamists' were behind Moscow massacre, but still blames Ukraine

The U.S. Embassy in Moscow and the Eighth Army notified Black’s family of his arrest shortly after Russian officials contacted the embassy, Smith said.

The Russian interior ministry in Vladivostok said a 32-year-old woman had filed a complaint against the 34-year-old suspect.

Black had come to Vladivostok to visit her, the two had an argument, and she later filed a police report accusing him of stealing money, the court said. He was arrested in a local hotel, having bought a plane ticket to return home.

Public nudity in Moscow

Separately, Moscow's court service said on Tuesday that a court had remanded a U.S. citizen whom it named as William Russell Nycum in custody for 10 days for "petty hooliganism."

It said he had been found naked outside after drinking alcohol in an incident it said "expressed obvious disrespect to society, citizens and public order."

On Tuesday, a spokesperson for the U.S. Embassy in Moscow said: "We are aware of reports of U.S. citizens being arrested inside of Russia. ... Consular officers from the embassy always seek to aid citizens with appropriate assistance but due to privacy concerns we aren't able to comment further."

Contributing: Reuters

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