1968 terry travel trailer weight

A Fine Vintage...Adventures In Rehab

The Restoration of a 1968 18' Terry Travel-Pak Trailer

October 28, 2010

The resurrection of a 1968 18' terry travel-pak trailer..

4 comments:

Sounds like a fun project ! will there be a core group ? I have a vintage friend... Will there be room for Patty-o-furniture ? John

OMG!! When I was growing up our cross-the-street neighbors had a Terry. I forgot all about the brand name, the one in the brochure evokes flashbacks. Great blog BTW....you should set up a FB page; I will friend the trailer

Trading News I have read your article; it is very informative and helpful for me. I admire the valuable information you offer in your articles. Thanks for posting it.

Trading News This is very educational content and written well for a change. It's nice to see that some people still understand how to write a quality post!

Average Weight Of A Travel Trailer (With 35 Examples)

• BEGINNERS GUIDE

G. Yoganand

Travel trailer weight is a significant parameter if you are about to buy either a new or used one. So, how much do travel trailers weigh normally? This is an important thing to know if you want to know all options for your car or truck.

The weight of trailer camper is generally mentioned by the manufacturer, but they also mention many other ratings which should not be overlooked.

A trailer weight is not only the weight it carries when build, but will also include all other things you pack in.

Their weight depends on length, and many other factors. Lets see some examples and draw conclusion on the weights of travel trailers or campers.

How much do travel trailer weigh on an average

Many people buy travel trailer due to their cost and size. A travel trailer is very popular option in rv’s. One question that many people often have is how much do the travel trailers weigh.

Travel trailer weight varies widely and on an average it is between 1000 lbs to 8800 lbs.

Most of the popular travel trailer have lengths between 15 feet to 35 feet.

Comparing several travel trailers and their wights below is the average weight of travel trailer for different lengths.

The weight of travel trailer depends on the size or length. When understating the weight parameters in pounds there are multiple thing that you should understand rather then just going by the weight called out by the dealer in manual.

In this post, we will see average weight of travel trailers and various other terminologies related to travel trailer weight.

Understanding the weigh of a travel trailer is important because you are supposed to pull it using a car or suv.

A car will have certain limit and if your trailer exceeds that limit then that could be a problem. Towing a trailer initially can be tough but following the tips that i gave in my previous article can make it super easy, do check it out.

When you head out for camping, you end up packing lots of things and with a full gas tank plus a full water tank, will mean lots of weight. Thus, it becomes more important that you have fair idea of where the weight is heading. Apart from understanding the dry weight of travel trailer, get a fair idea of other weights related to it.

In case, you want to know how to find dry weight , do check linked detailed guide.

A hitch should also be good enough to handle the overall weight. Also, with a rv, you are supposed to follow certain rules related to weight. Once you cross certain weight limit even the drivers license requirement change in some states.

Read : 17 Tips to reduce RV Weight

One thing many people try to check is if they can find smaller travel trailer that have less weight. A smaller less weight travel trailer lets you pull it easily.

We will also see how travel trailer weight varies by length. Once you have that idea, it can be helpful to determine the approximate weight based on length.

Travel trailer weight variation on the basis of length

Main reason why people want to know about the weight of their travel trailer is to determine if their car or truck can tow the trailer or not. A travel trailer has length that ranges from 17 feet to 40 feet.

More the length, more is the weight of travel trailer. A 15-18 feet travel trailer will obviously weigh less than a 30 feet one. That is to say, we can almost say that weight of the travel trailer is proportional to its length. This however, may not be always be correct as with new models, construction type material the weight is varies.

New year models released and built are less heavy and thus, we can also say weight is inversely proportional to year make of the travel trailer. On an average a 16 feet length travel trailer will have a unloaded weight of around 2200 lbs to around 3400 lbs. A 30 feet travel trailer can weigh around 7000 lbs to 7800 lbs.

This may however, be not true for all makes and brands, it will always vary. But, on an average you will find the numbers to be very close. A 20 feet travel trailer can be as heavy as 2700 lbs to 2900 lbs. With advances in the way travel trailers are manufactured, you will also find a 15 feet travel trailer weighing just above 1500 lbs unloaded or even an 13 feet long travel trailer weighing below 1200 pounds.

Travel trailer are smaller rv’s, they sleep 2-3 people at times and can also be lengthy about 40 feet long. A travel trailer weight also depends on the floor plan, kind of dinner built in, position of the bath, kitchen positioning, entry exit doors, window positioning, bed style (this things require changes, adjustments then lead to weight variations).

How much do small travel trailers weigh

Lets see some examples of travel trailers along with their weight and length. This should give a fair idea of relation between length and weight of a travel trailer. These are some of the smaller travel trailer that are popular under the weight of 4000 pounds.

• Forest River Flagstaff E-Pro 12RK – 11 feet long and weighs around 1150 lbs
• ALiner Ascape camp travel trailer – 13 feet long and weighs around 1495 lbs
• Forest River Flagstaff E-Pro 14FK – 14 feet long and weighs around 2010 lbs
• ALiner Ascape plus travel trailer – 13 feet long and weighs around 1150 lbs
• KZ Sportsmen Classic 130RB travel trailer – 15 feet long and weighs around 2126 lbs
• ALiner Ascape MT travel trailer – 13 feet long and weighs around 1170 lbs
• ALiner Ascape ST travel trailer – 13 feet long and weighs around 1575 lbs
• Forest River Flagstaff E-Pro 16BH – 18 feet long and weighs around 2870 lbs
• KZ Sportsmen Classic 150BH travel trailer – 17 feet long and weighs around 2260 lbs
• Forest River Flagstaff E-Pro 17PR – 20 feet long and weighs around 3160 lbs
• KZ Sportsmen Classic 151RB travel trailer – 18 feet long and weighs around 2530 lbs
• Forest River Flagstaff E-Pro 17RK – 20 feet long and weighs around 2930 lbs
• KZ Sportsmen Classic 180BH travel trailer – 20 feet long and weighs around 2620 lbs
• Forest River Flagstaff E-Pro 19FBS – 20 feet long and weighs around 2960 lbs
• Jayco Hummingbird 16FD travel trailer – 18 feet long and weighs around 2535 lbs
• KZ Sportsmen Classic 160QB travel trailer – 22 feet long and weighs around 2740 lbs
• Jayco Hummingbird 16MRB travel trailer – 19 feet long and weighs around 2780 lbs
• Forest River Flagstaff E-Pro 19FD – 20 feet long and weighs around 2825 lbs
• Jayco Hummingbird 17BH travel trailer – 19 feet long and weighs around 3015 lbs

We can determine a fair idea of weight based on travel trailer length. But that may not be always true. A length cannot be the ultimate decider to figure out the exact weight of a travel trailer, as seen from examples a 20 feet long travel trailer (of not only different make, but even same brand) weighs differently. Thus, it also depends on the floor plan, amenities and many other things packaged in the trailer.

How much do longer travel trailers Weigh

As we already saw a longer travel trailer will weigh much more and it is almost proportional to its length. A 40 feet travel trailer will have enough weight to make you think if the car you have, is good enough to pull it or not.

Even a 25 feet or 30 feet long travel trailer is much heavier and you need to be sure about the capacity of your pulling car. Lets see some of the examples to understand better and draw some conclusion on length-weight relation for heavier travel trailers.

Examples here in are also some of the best travel trailers you could buy in the range of 28 feet and 30 feet with weights under 5000 pounds and so on. While some are quoted just to see how the best and average travel trailers weigh in different segments of lengths.

• Keystone RV Passport 175BH Express travel trailer – 22 feet long and weighs around 3250 lbs
• Keystone RV Passport 195RB Express travel trailer – 23 feet long and weighs around 3805 lbs
• Forest River RV Flagstaff Classic Super Lite 831CLBSS travel trailer – 35 feet long and weighs around 8105 lbs
• Forest River RV Flagstaff Classic Super Lite 832FLBS travel trailer – 35 feet long and weighs around 8621 lbs
• Keystone RV Passport 195RBWE Express travel trailer – 23 feet long and weighs around 3812 lbs
• Keystone RV Passport 2200RBWE Grand travel trailer – 25 feet long and weighs around 3805 lbs
• Forest River RV Flagstaff Classic Super Lite 831BHDS travel trailer – 34 feet long and weighs around 7970 lbs
• Forest River RV Flagstaff Classic Super Lite 31BHWSS travel trailer – 34 feet long and weighs around 8386 lbs
• Keystone RV Passport 234QBWE Express travel trailer – 25 feet long and weighs around 3870 lbs
• Keystone RV Passport 239ML Express travel trailer – 25 feet long and weighs around 4140 lbs
• Prime Time RV LaCrosse 2911RB travel trailer – 31 feet long and weighs around 6516 lbs
• Prime Time RV LaCrosse 318BHS travel trailer – 36 feet long and weighs around 8022 lbs
• Keystone RV Passport 2400BH Grand Touring travel trailer – 28 feet long and weighs around 4840 lbs
• Keystone RV Passport 2670BH Grand Touring travel trailer – 30 feet long and weighs around 5344 lbs
• Prime Time RV LaCrosse 324RST travel trailer – 37 feet long and weighs around 8334 lbs
• Prime Time RV LaCrosse 329BHT travel trailer – 37 feet long and weighs around 8815 lbs

From the examples we could see that a 26 feet long travel trailer on an average weighs around 3800 lbs to 4150 lbs . A 28 feet long travel trailer weighs in the range of 4300 lbs – 4900 lbs. A travel trailer between the length of 32 feet to 38 feet weighs 7200 lbs – 8500 lbs .

This should be enough to paint a fair idea of how a length of travel trailer is related to its weight. But, the weights are unloaded weights and should not be confused with the overall weight of travel trailers

 Understanding the travel trailer weight terminology

A travel trailer weight or weight of any other rv need to be understood correctly. The numbers that you get from the manufacturer or dealer could be misleading and misunderstood.

The weight details of various sized travel trailers that we saw are the unloaded weights. You basically need to do the math properly to see if the travel trailer weight is within limits for your car to pull.

Weight understanding in case of travel trailer is much more important than motorhomes which drives themselves (which is not the case for travel trailer or fifth wheel or pop up campers or any other towable trailers). Its important you understand the rv weight terminology .

A rating provided by manufacturer cannot be changed. Normally weight and load are same when you talk weight of rv’s. Basically, a weight of rv puts load on rv tires, axles and hitches.

This load is used to calculate various rating like GAWR (gross axle weight Rating), GCWR (gross combination weight Rating), GVWR (gross vehicle weight Rating). Lets, try to understand what exactly these things mean and how you should interpret values for these.

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)   – This rating basically is the maximum load that the axle of the trailer can support. Trailer manufacturer provides this rating and it basically depends on axle, tire, wheels and the rating is based on the weakest link.

Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW) – This is the weight of the RV or travel trailer when it is fully unloaded without any extra things on it. Usually the weight that you see when it is at the dealer and not yet sold.

The weights that we saw above were unloaded weights. Most times people are confused with this weight, and assume the unloaded weight as the final towing weight. But, in reality the weight increases when you actually pull the trailer with all the things packed in.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)  – This rating means the maximum weight that is allowed on the RV including all the things like the passengers, driver, water, fuel. The trailer and the towing vehicle will both have their own GVWR.

Gross combination Weight rating  (GCWR) – Unlike GVWR, the GCWR is the combination rating for both the trailer and the towing vehicle. It gives the maximum combined limit for the tow vehicle and the travel trailer.

Cargo carrying capacity (CCCC) – This basically means the weight of the trailer without the optional accessories, equipment in the trailer.

Net carrying capacity (NCC) – This is the weight of all own or personal things included on the trailer or rv. For example, the combined weight of fuel, water, food, gas, equipment tools etc

Sleeping Capacity weight rating (SCWR) – This basically gives the maximum weight limit depending on the number of sleeping positions designated by manufacturer. Each included person is assumed to be around 154 lbs and thus, a 2 sleeping travel trailer will mean its SCWR will be 208 lbs and so on.

Importance of Weight distribution in travel trailer

In case of travel trailer, the weight distribution is significant. An un-even weight distributed can be dangerous and the towing hitch and the trailer can be impacted.

You need to make sure the overall weight is properly distributed. The idea is to make sure weight is properly distributed along all sides, front to back and from both right and left sides.

Rv’s and travel trailer are originally designed with proper weight distribution, and when you tow the travel trailer you need to follow same when putting in more weight through other things.

The weight of both the tow vehicle and travel trailer should be properly distributed. Technically speaking, you also need to make sure the Gross Vehicle weight Rating and gross combined vehicle weight rating is not crossed at any time.

To understand the proper rules of weight distribution, you can read the manufacturer provided manual for your travel trailer or camper.

In most cases, the idea is to keep 60% of the weight ahead of the center of gravity of the travel trailer. To understand the correct weights of your travel trailer, its better to weigh it after it is fully loaded with all stuff.

An uneven distributed weight is notable with naked eyes, but may not always be visible hence its better to keep the weight within limits and properly distributed.

One can also use weight distribution systems to make it properly distributed. Weight distribution systems work using spring bars which correct uneven weight distribution.

What affects Weight of travel trailer  – which things put on extra weight

Lets try to understand how the weight of the travel trailer is affected. What all things put on that weight.?  An unloaded weight will be less but when you head out finally, the weight of the overall travel trailer could go out of limits and that’s what we should try to limit.

Water  –  Camping need lots of water. And water adds weight to your travel trailer ? yes, do not underestimate the power of water weight. It weighs almost 8 lbs per gallon. A 50 gallon water in a travel trailer will mean you already have put on 400 lbs extra on travel trailer.

Generator – A generator is a necessary thing in you rv. You get portable generators that weigh less but even then, they can be best weighted at 300-400 lbs and that is much to add to the limited capacity travel trailer.

More watts will generally mean more weight for the generator. Thus, getting the right size generator can be a wise thing to do. But, it may not be a simple calculation for many of us and that’s why i wrote this detail guide on how to choose the right size generator for your RV (You AC is mostly the deciding factor, check out how!)

Construction material affects weight  – A travel trailer construction material type is also responsible for its weight. A fiberglass made trailer generally weigh less as compared to aluminum ones.

This however, should not be your problem as this will be included in the unloaded weight which is not in your hands anyways. But, understanding the material type of your travel trailer can be helpful as choosing the right one will mean your travel trailers unloaded weight itself is less.

Slide outs Increase weight  – A slide out for your rv increases the overall weight. Its extra space but extra weight too. A slide out normally adds upto 1000 lbs on an average. Pop up are less heavy and that can be a good option as compared to slide outs if you are looking to reduce the overall weight on your travel trailer.

Read : Weight Holding capacity of Slide Out in RV

How to reduce weight on your travel trailer – tips to stay light

Weighing your rv often is the best thing you could do (in case you are confused on how to weigh your rv, here is a article that i posted about  it). Regularly checking the weight helps to plan and you will stay within the rating limits. Lets see some of the things you could follow to reduce the weight and stay in limits

1. Get rid of extra things on your rv. Extra tools, extra equipment, unused personal belongings like shoes, clothes, books etc. Unused kitchen items, bedroom, bathroom accessories you don’t use more often should be kept out. All smaller things add up to put on those pounds which add-on to become a big number.

2. Weigh the travel trailer separately with car and without car. This gives great picture of what is happening and where the weight is distributed.

3. Get good weight distribution system to make sure weight is properly distributed.

4. While heading out for camping make sure you pack things which are absolutely needed and do not pack out of limits

5. Have only number of people allowed as per manufacturer manual. A human weight of around 150 lbs can be more than enough to cause the imbalance of weight distribution

6. Make sure tires are properly inflated. Maintain correct tire pressure for both travel trailer and car at all times.

7. Use aluminum in case you want to do any repairs or modifications to your travel trailer. Aluminium is light weight and thus will not put on extra weight on your travel trailer. Many times, people do patch work like filling in holes, cracks or structural changes to the travel trailer. All these smaller things should be done with materials that are less in weight and should not add on weights.

8. Get rid of things that are not in use for months or have become old. A ladder that you hardly need, an awning that is broken or things like kayak that you occasionally need. Remove things that you don’t use often or things of past that need replacement, just go ahead and replace them. This will not only save space but also reduce the unnecessary weight.

9. Get the sliding doors replaced with curtains. Doors that aren’t used for privacy and are in place just, can be removed and replaced with curtains or any other such fabrics used instead of heavy doors.

10. Replace old heavy things with new lightweight ones. Drawers, bins, shelving that are heavy and old, could be putting in weight unnecessarily and you should try and get things that are new and less in weight. You will find lots of innovative products specially designed for RV that are compact and lightweight.

Travel trailer weight comparison with Other Rv’s (Class C RV and class A RV)

A mini motorhome or a class C rv on an average weighs around 10,000 lbs to 14,000 lbs. That is almost double than an average weight of a travel trailer.

Class C motorhome are also longer than travel trailers, they tend to be around 18 feet – 30 feet long. Class A motorhomes on the other hand are the heaviest ones, they weigh much more.

On an average class A rv’s weighs anything between 15,000 lbs to 30,000 lbs. They are really heavy, and much more than a travel trailer. With so much weight they tend to intimidate you on road. Remember, with weight also the license requirement changes.

Read : How much weight RVs roof are capable to support

There is limit on weight up-to which you can drive using normal non commercial license but if the weight goes beyond certain limit then you need special license.

The rule of weight is different for all states. Like in California, a weight more than 26,000 lbs for a non towable RV will need a class B Non commercial license. Most states have similar requirement but could be little different for some states (need to check with each states rules and regulations).

A travel trailer to be towed has a weight limitation of around 10,000 lbs in most states and beyond that you will need class B Non commercial license. Looking at these numbers of pound for travel trailer, most of the times you will be okay with the normal license unless you have that very big trailer weighing more than 10,000 lbs.

If you are ready to tow your travel trailer and start the RV adventure then do start by getting all the essentials for your trailer (this is a complete list that you will need)

A travel trailer weight measurement is of much importance since it has the power to affect many other things in the camper trailer.

Apart from getting to know just the unloaded weight of the trailer, knowing all the other ratings help in  towing car-trailer system smooth. A travel trailer weighs less as compared to other bigger rv’s however it is more important to know the weight in case of travel trailers. A travel trailer weight unloaded should not be your only way of judging the capacity of your car to tow.

Understanding overall weight when fully loaded and with full water/fuel tanks is more necessary. Going through manufacturer manual, weighing your trailer often are best practices to follow.

Keeping the travel trailer as light as possible can come good for your towing car or suv. Keeping the weight distribution proper is also important and proper hitches or distribution system can come handy. One should fully understand the towing capacity of the car and then manage the weight on travel trailer. Owning a very heavy trailer also needs special license requirements and thus better to make sure the weight is within limits.

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The Original Vintage Trailer and Camper Club

Built by I.B. Perch Company in Morgan Hill, Ca, Weiser, ID

Irving Perch manufactured Aristocrat trailers in California from 1956 to 1974. The Lo Liner model was called that because one could purchase optional metal wheels to install when storage in a low garage was desired. These smaller wheels lowered the height, as well as the unique “drop axle”. The Lo Liner was sold as a 13′ and a 15′ trailer back then, but licensed as 16′, as the nearest measurement from hitch to tail. Perch also manufactured a Mainliner, Land Commander, Hi Liner, Lil Loafer, Travelier, Classic, Landmark, Land Liner, Land Star, American Clipper Motor Homes, the Pick-up Partner and an 8 ft RV called “the bug”. The exterior of the Lo-Liner was notable for the large windows on all sides of the trailer. The trailers were extremely well-built with aircraft construction techniques,(metal I beams) and many are still on the road all over North America.

Irv Perlitch (Perch) made his fortune by founding Aristocrat Travel Trailer after moving to Morgan Hill in 1957. Mr. Perch collected unusual antiques such as a 1929 Ford Tri-motor, the first commercial passenger plane to make coast-to-coast flights. In 1969, he sold his successful trailer business to begin work on a 200 acre family resort in Morgan Hill, CA. It was home to his museums of antique cars and airplanes and where he built his Flying Lady Restaurants.

Irv Perlitch passed away April 30, 2008.

Manufacturer Information

Aristocrats were manufactured in Morgan Hill CA. The Lil Loafer (Aristocrat) was made in Weiser, Idaho. Another factory was begun in the East, possibly Indiana, circa 1969.

Canadian  travel trailers manufactured in 2 locations. Contact Parts Department for availability of parts:

West: General Coach PO Box 700, 9316 – 348 Avenue, Oliver, BC V0H 1T0 Canada Telephone: 250-498-3471  www.generalcoach.bc.ca

East: General Coach 73 Mill Street, Hensall, On N0M 1×0 Telephone: 519-262-2600  www.generalcoach.on.ca

• Lo-Liner  – unique because it could fit into a standard garage with special tires
• Land Commander
• Li’l Loafer

Standard Features

13′ Li’l Loafer: Small trailer with higher profile than Lo Liner 13′. Features bunk above sink.

13′ Loliner: 1300 lbs. Propane oven and stove. Icebox.

14′ Travelier: 1680 lbs. sleeps 6. Electric brakes. propane oven and stove, icebox (propane fridge optional)

15′ Loliner: 1800 lbs. Hitch wt 225 lbs. Sleeps 6. Electric brakes. Propane oven and stove. Icebox (propane fridge optional).

15′ Mainliner: Similar to 15′ Loliner,  nothing  like the 16“ Mainliner. Private toilet area.

16′ Mainliner: 2000 lbs. Hitch wt 225 lbs. Sleeps 6 with Rear Bunk. Propane oven and stove, icebox (propane fridge optional) Porta-potty shelf in closet. Electric brakes.

17′ S-T LoLiner: 2550 lbs. Hitch wt 300 lbs. Sleeps 4 (six with optional bunk). Propane oven, stove and fridge. Fiberglass shower and recirculating toilet.

18′ Land Commander: 2050 – 2250 lbs. Hitch wt 225 lbs. Sleeps 6 (8 with optional bunk). Propane oven, stove and fridge. Enclosed toilet area option.

20′ Land Liner: 2100 lbs. Hitch wt 300 lbs. Sleeps 4-6 depending on options. Electric brakes. Propane oven, stove and fridge. Space heater. Complete bathroom with shower, toilet and sink.

24′ Classic: 4700 lbs. Electric brakes, propane oven with broiler, stove, refrigerator, wall heater, bathroom with shower, two twin beds plus bed in dinette, double doored closet, tons of cabinet space, a rare model.

Unique features/Options

Aristocrat trailers had a unique feature of note for vintage restoration. The electrical connector to the tow vehicle is a 6-pin round connector with the ground and 12V positions reversed from most trailers and tow vehicles. Have the wiring system tested before using it the first time.

An Aristocrat accessory- a wheel lowering attachment that allowed the trailer to be lowered by replacing the tires with these steel wheels. This allowed the trailers overall height to drop, facilitating garage storage.

“You’re following an Aristocrat” embossed on the a black and white plastic piece on the back of the trailer

• 16 ft. 1967 Aristocrat (pictured in photos section) sold for $800 in 2006 (new were about $1600)
• 16 ft. 1966 Aristocrat Mainliner bought in Tacoma, WA in ROUGH condition for $350 in Oct, 2008 (See rebuild and pictures below.)
• 17 ft. 1966 Aristocrat travel trailer in California advertised for $1200 in 2006
• 17 ft. 1968 Aristocrat Trailer in California sold for $800 in Jan, 2007

1969 Aristocrat Lo-Liner Trailer in California bought for $500 in Mar, 2010

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner  It’s a very good example of an almost original Mainliner. There are not many of them around – owner Alex Alexander

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner – Original windows, baby moons, step, bumper, paint job, and running lights. Reproduction emblems.

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner – trailer box is 12′ with a 15′ length overall Original stone shield. Reproduction awning and badges.

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner – Original paneling, quilted backsplash, upholstery, stove, windows and wall sconce. New curtains & pillows. Gas lamp over stove & bunk bed over couch are partially missing.

1965 Aristocrat Mainliner – Original paneling, countertops, flooring, sink, upholstery, ice box, table, paper towel holder, windows and wall sconces.

Aristocrat Caravaners emblem (designed from the original)

Reproduction Aristocrat “You’re Following” Badge for the rear of the trailer

Small reproduction iB Perch Aristocrat badge goes beside the front door over the grab handle.

1965 Aristocrat Travelier

1965 16′ Mainliner

1965 Aristocrat Land Commander

1966 16ft Aristocrat Mainliner (factory exterior and modernized interior)

1966 15ft Aristocrat Mainliner

1966 15ft Aristocrat Loliner (Exterior and Interior)

1966 Aristocrat Land Commander; Exterior & Interior

1967 16′ Aristocrat Lo Liner

1967 Aristocrat Land Liner

1971 Aristocrat Loliner

1971 Aristocrat Lo Liner

1972 Aristocrat Lo Liner

1972 Aristocrat Landstar

Original paneling, wallpaper, countertops, flooring, sink, refrigerator, harvest gold stove, paper towel holder, windows, wall sconces, Spacesaver bathroom with murphy toilet and white/black ‘campers’ motif. The 1973 Landstar has avocado green appliances and a multi-color floral motif in the bathroom.

1973 Aristocrat Lo Liner

Some owners

Ryan & Linda Frizzell, toledo ,Oh. Curently restoring 1967 aristocrat, 10′ Lil Loafer.

Alex Alexander, DeFuniak Springs, FL. Owner of 1965 Aristocrat Mainliner 15-6.

Clubs/Links

Rebuild, restoration and modernization of a 1966 15.5(16)ft Mainliner Shown above

Nice Restoration set of ’67 Land Commander

Modernization of ’70 Lo Liner 17′

Elvis’ Aristocrat!!!

Aristocrat Owners Forum on Yahoo  Connect with other owners and share photos of your Aristocrat trailers.

Aristocrat Owners Forum on Ipernity  Connect with other owners and share photos of your Aristocrat trailers. Create your own personal site.

Aristocrat Vintage Trailers on Pinterest  See photos of the different Aristocrat models and more about Aristocrat trailers.

Repairing Yesterday’s Trailers on Yuku  (Old Vintage Vacations Board from MSN)

Vintage Trailer Supply  Great Source for hard to find replacement parts.

Rebuilding an Axle

www.cannedhamdecals.com  |Aristocrat decals and emblems for restoration.

Aristocrat Frequently Asked Questions

•  It should be on the tongue of the trailer, topside, curb side.
• How do I decode it?
• One of the formats is (R)RRR T LLL S SSSS
• (R)RRR= 3 or 4 digit Aristocrat Registration number.
• C or S = Lo-Liner
• A=Main-Liner
• J=Land-Liner
• G=Land-Commander
• ?=Lil-Loafer

*Sadly, this letter scheme has proved to be incorrect as many times as it is correct; so proceed with skepticism.

• LLL=Length (i.e. 157 = 15ft 7in)
• S SSSS = Your serial number.
• Kristen Fenner Damazio Mine says 2371 17 STL 9 13120 It’s a 1968 17′ STL Lo-Liner
• Annette Arneson Format A 16 7 1752 is a Mainliner, 16ft, 1957, #1752   It is believed that the 7 indicates the year, production started in 1956 and they used a single digit to represent year; not knowing they would span decades of production.
• How else can I identify my trailer?

• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akh0WhkudrM

Inner Bearing: Timken LM48548 or Bower LM48549 ‘ Inner Race: Timken LM48510 ’ AKA Timkin “SET5”, which is a Timkin Part Number (need 2 per axle) Outer Bearing: Timken M12649 or Bower M12649 ‘ Outer Race: Timken M12610 AKA Timkin “SET3”, which is a Timkin Part Number (need 2 per axle).

Seal:  2M – HADCO – 3077 (original hadco 10” axle seal) or AE2592N or CH17404 or 1105-100-031 or 168255TB (which is a superior double-lip seal) (need 2 per axle) https://www.etrailer.com/p-1105-100-031.html

Reference Information: http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Documents/BSAC1989andOlder7391.pdf

https://www.ahrinternational.com/PDF_catalogues/Timken/BSAC1989andOlder7391.pdf

http://bearingfinder.ntnamericas.com/

http://www.etrailer.com/c-bearings.htm

PLEASE NOTE:  The above information may not apply to your trailer; there were various manufacturing changes during production, and many axle-swaps occurring during and after production.  This information should be regarded as UNVERIFIED reference information only.

• Bearing and Seal P/N’s for 4×9.44 pattern hubs are ______________________________.
• Yes.  However before you proceed, realize the hubs need to be handled CAREFULLY, so don’t go crazy with a sledge hammer to remove the studs.  The hubs are obsolete.
• DORMAN 610-085 is a direct replacement stud.
• DORMAN 611-016 is a direct replacement lug nut.
• Common 4-lug small pattern is 4×4.5”
• Common 5-lug pattern is 5×4.5” and used today (wheels are everywhere).
• The vintage large 4-lug pattern is 4×9.44”
• Early Ford Falcon and 6cyl Ford Mustangs had 13 and 14” wheels with a 4×4.5” pattern and 4” backspace for ½” lugs.  They accept a 9” baby moon wheel cover (like stock) available from Etrailer.com.
• 4×4.5” wheels in 3.5 and 3” backspace are available from Wheel Vintiques as well as Coker Tire.
• Beware of stud size when shopping junk yards.  Some 4×4.5” wheels are intended for use with 9/16” studs, which can lead to lug-nut bottoming and loose wheels.
• ALWAYS check and confirm internal clearances.  Pay special attention to the front grease fitting to sidewall clearance.  In my ‘64, a poor tire/wheel choice would lead to catastrophic failure on the road due to this.
• 5×4.5” trailer wheels can be had anywhere.
• 5×4.5” wheels that accept the Aristocrat 9” baby moon wheel caps are harder to find and can be found on some 1957-1964 ford V8 cars.
• 4×9.44” vintage trailer wheels are branded “dexstar” by etrailer.com and available.
• Wayne Anderson engineered a solution as follows.
• Replaced his entire axle assembly with the following: The Axle came from TJ Trailers, Ogden, UT. 2200Lb Axle, 48″ outside frame width, 65″ Hub to Hub, 22.5deg down-angle version.  The 13′ wheels from Summit Racing 5 lug, 4.5″ circle, 2.75″ Backspace
• http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/2-200-lb-torsion-axles-details.html
• The new axle flanges were welded to the original Arisrocrat trailer frame.  Not a bolt-on.
• http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Jalousie-Window-Discs-p/vts-171.htm
• Close the window and remove the window from the trailer.
• Lay the window down on an old blanket.
• Remove one end of the aluminum window frame (4 screws, sometimes “clutch head”) and the glass panes will fall free.  (hence the blanket)
• Replace the pane(s)
• Reassemble and install.
• DO NOT BEND THE ALUMINUM TABS to try to replace the glass without removing the window, they will likely break.
• Do not force the crank handle.
• Lubricate all hinge points from the inside with silicone spray lube.
• Work the mechanism slowly and gently with the crank handle and by applying light pressure/coaxing near the pivot points.  Do not pry on the slats or on the ends of the aluminum retaining tabs, they will break.  It will eventually begin to move.  Repeat with lube, wiggling, and time.
• Once the mechanism is free, wipe up the black oxide (it is abrasive and is why the mechanism is hard to move) and lube it some more.  Keep working it until it moves freely and stops shedding oxide.  Once it begins to move, this will happen quickly.
• For a ‘64 Aristocrat gravity-feed tank P/N T161 is a great fit.  It is possible to install a bulkhead fitting with a 1” back-nut through the filler hole, making it unnecessary to cut a service hatch in the tank. http://www.lavanture.com/pdfs/specials/T2107D_LPC_WaterTanks_FLYER.pdf
• http://www.tincantourists.com/wiki/doku.php?id=aristocrat
• In California, all trailers over 1500lbs legally are required to have trailer brakes.
• This topic is like religion to some folks; opinions will vary widely.  Adding trailer brakes to a trailer is unlikely to hurt unless you are relying on trailer brakes as the sole means to be able to safely stop.  I recommend that you do not tow a heavy trailer with a light car that can only stop reliably if the trailer brakes work.  If they come unplugged, you would be in a very dangerous situation.  For all other circumstances, trailer brakes are always a towing safety improvement.
• MAKE NO ASSUMPTIONS.  In 40+ years time, the coupler could have been changed.
• MOST have 2” ball hitch couplers.  Some have 2 5/16”.
• If you put a 2 5/16” coupler onto a 2” ball, it is possible to get down the road hundreds (if not thousands) of miles with a time bomb on your hands.  MAKE SURE you have the right coupler and ball mated.
• To check fit, use the tongue jack on the trailer.  Connect the trailer to the ball, engage the latch, then as you lower and lift the trailer tongue with the tongue jack, feel and inspect the mating fit between the ball and coupler.  If there is excessive play in this area; you have the wrong parts or worn out parts and should have it serviced/inspected/replaced.
• Through-bolt them to the tongue.  Use at least two independent ⅜” welded link chains that are individually bolted through the tongue steel and attached to the tow vehicle with an attachment method that can support the full tow weight of the trailer should it come detached.
• If the tow chains are welded to the frame, question the integrity of the welds if they look like they were done by an amateur.  Test the connection with a large hammer to make sure they are solid, or cut them off and through-bolt them to the frame.  Amateur welds often fail when tested with extreme forces like they’d experience if the trailer came off the ball at speed.  A detached trailer can be a lethal event to you and others.
• S hooks made from bent wire at the vehicle attachment point are of questionable value.  I’ve seen them “pulled straight” and detached.  Cast/forged hooks with closure clasps, or removable chain links with a high test value are preferred.
• Always fuse the battery before it connects to anything else in the trailer.
• If using a fuse panel, and if it is possible to keep the distance between the fuse panel and the battery short, it is acceptable (and practical) to not install a fuse between the fuse panel and the battery, and let the fuse panel do the fusing of the branch circuits.
• Choose a fuse value that is 1.25 to 2X the required current of the system being powered.  I.E. 4-5A for a water pump, 1A for an LED light, etc.
• Be aware that normal lead-acid batteries outgas hydrogen during charging.  Batteries should be in a vented location.
• Be aware that malfunctioning and/or bouncing lead-acid batteries can leak battery acid.  Batteries should be contained in some fashion so this acid can’t reach your trailer.
• Be aware that trailers have no shocks, and bounce quite a bit.  Strap batteries down so they don’t come loose or fall over.
• Volts:  This is pressure, like water pressure.  Typically trailers have 12 volt systems, so that’s what we will assume.  Volts =12V.
• Current:  This is volume, again like water.  Think of it as how much flow is needed.  Measured in Amps.  A typical water pump requires 3-4 amps of current.  An LED light requires about ½A to 1A of current.  Jump starting a car requires hundreds of amps of current.
• Amp-Hours (Ah):  The amount of power stored in a battery is based on the Amp-Hour rating.   How many amps, for how many hours.  A 10 amp-hour battery can provide 1 amp for 10 hours.  It can also provide 10 amps for 1 hour.  It’s a little more complicated than this when the current gets high, but this will suffice for understanding the ratings.
• Watts:  This is “power”.  It is Volts*Amps, or in our case 12*Amps.  A 3 amp consuming water pump requires 36 watts to operate.  Appliances sometimes express power consumption in watts.  You can get back to amps by dividing by 12.
• Cell Phone Recharging – 1 amp for 2 hours a day. (2Ah)
• Water pump – 3 amps for 10 minutes a day. (0.5Ah)
• Lights – 2 amps for 4 hours a day. (6Ah)
• Amp-hours per day required: 8.5
• Days before recharge 5 (5 day max trip, charged before leaving)
• Battery capacity required 42.5 Ah; shop for a 40+ amp-hour battery.  A typical 12V deep cycle marine battery would be fine for this.  There are many options available in both sealed and conventional battery designs.
• Let’s add a single power hungry appliance to the above example.  For example, a 12V coffee maker like this one:  http://www.roadtrucker.com/power-hunt-appliances/12-volt-high-performance-personal-coffee-maker.htm
• The specs say 12V, 25A, 3 minutes to make a single cup of coffee.
• Amp-Hours = 25A*(3/60)h = 1.25Ah.
• 10 cups of coffee in 5 days = 12.5Ah.
• You now need a 55Ah battery instead of a 42.5Ah battery as seen above.
• You also need to make sure that any power port that this 25A appliance could be plugged into is wired appropriately and fused appropriately for 25A.  10 gauge wire.  25A rated power plug.
• 1500 Watts = 12 Volts * 125 Amps.
• Time to toast = 3 minutes.  (.05 Hours)
• Amp-Hours Required = 125*.05= 6.25Ah
• Inefficiency adjustment = 6.25Ah * 1.20 = 7.5Ah (actual, with inverter losses)
• Wire gauge required between battery and inverter = LARGE (see table below); like jumper cables in some cases.
• Power budget for a 5 day trip for toast for one person = 37.5Ah; another marine battery just for toast.  Propane is looking like a good option.
• Install 75watt solar panel on the roof (2×3 feet, roughly)
• Install charge controller box between panel and battery to regulate charging and not over-charge.
• In full sun/ideal conditions, 75 watt panel will deliver (75W/12V)= 6.25 Amps when the sun is on it.  Assuming you don’t aim it, you can count on about half that number; let’s call it 3 Amps.  In reality, with variable shade and so on…probably even less than that.
• If you have sun for 12 hours a day (on average) and partial sun/shade situations (forest), you will see about 12h*1.5A = 18Ah a day of capacity returning to your batteries.   That is more than twice what is needed to fully recharge the battery in the first “Sizing Your Battery” example above.  You can now camp indefinitely, and don’t need to plug in.  Furthermore, you don’t need a battery that can hold 5 days worth of charge; you could cut the battery size and weight in half and still have plenty of reserve.

• You install a 12V power port intended for use for your cell phone charging needs.  You need 2 Amps, max.  Looking at the above table, and seeing that 20A can be supplied through 12ga wire, you decide that you can run 24ga wire instead…and you found a table online that says it’s fine for 2A.  It is.  You run a 20ft run of 24ga wire from the battery to your power plug, and a 2ft run of 24ga wire from the power plug to the trailer chassis for ground.   You do not install a fuse.  Now, you’re camping and someone comes over with their new 12V fan and plugs it into your power port.  It is drawing 10 amps.  Your 10ft wire run between the battery and the fan is inside your wooden storage compartment where you are storing all manner of dry goods and combustibles.  The 24ga wire heats, eventually melts the insulation, catches the insulation on fire, and ignites the contents of your storage compartment.  Furthermore, while you’re trying to put the fire out, this wire is now a heating element that continues to reignite the fire until you figure out what the source of the problem is, or try to disconnect a red-hot wire with your bare hands, or by any means necessary.  How to prevent this?  A 3A fuse and a battery disconnect switch.

• From plug-in 120V power:  This is clearly the easiest approach.  A small charger can be connected to the trailers 120V power system and then wired to the battery terminals for recharging.  To recharge the battery, simply plug in to shore power.
• In some cases, the AUX terminal on the tow vehicle doesn’t exist, or has not been wired to the tow vehicle battery.  In this case, there is no power available to charge the trailer battery.
• In some cases, the AUX terminal on the tow vehicle is capable of delivering in excess of 100A, and must be fused.  The trouble with fusing is that a fully discharged house battery can draw 100A for the first few seconds of charging, and will blow the fuse when nothing is wrong.
• In some cases, tow vehicles have a nice protected AUX terminal with current regulation built in that regulates power to a reasonable (<20A) level.
• In some cases, the AUX terminal on the tow vehicle is directly connected to the tow vehicle battery…and if you leave the trailer plugged in when the engine on the tow vehicle isn’t running, it will drain the battery on the tow vehicle.
• Ideally, the trailer should have a current regulator between the battery and the tow vehicle that regulates charge current to a safe level.  These devices are not commonly used, so they are hard to find.  They do exist.  Look for “DC to DC charger” or “Constant Current DC Charger” if you are determined to do this.
• For these reasons and more, I generally do not recommend recharging off of the tow vehicle.  It is a complex prospect for a small trailer with limited need for such things.
• From Solar:  See the description of solar charging above.  Often times, this will suffice with no need to plug the trailer in.
• Brake/Turn Left.
• Brake/Turn Right.
• Running Lights.
• Brake, Turn, and Running will have 12V when that respective circuit is powered.  When Brake is on, both of the circuits have power.  Brake and Turn share the same bulb and filament within that bulb (if it’s a multi-filament bulb).
• Tools.  At a minimum, you need a tow plug test tool to make sure your vehicle outputs are working correctly.

• If it doesn’t work, remove the left tail lamp assembly from the trailer.  Check connections.  Physically remove the bulb and inspect the filament (you can see it).  Check the terminals on the bulb and the cleanliness of the socket.

• If it still doesn’t work, Check to make sure that there is a wired connection between pin 1 and the trailer frame, and that the connection is clean and solid.  The frame and skin of the trailer should be solidly connected to pin 1.
• If it still doesn’t work, One side of the left turn signal bulb should connect to the trailer skin or frame.  The other side should connect to a wire that runs to the left turn signal pin.  Ignore the third wire now (if there is one), that’s for running lights.
• Trace wires and keep focused on this 2-wire problem until it’s solved.  Then, turn on the right turn signal and repeat the effort for the right side.
• Once both left and right work, BRAKE will work by default and you’re guaranteed that the ground is good moving forward.  Try it.
• Finally, turn on the running lights and see if they work.  If they do not, check the connection at the tow plug.  (Pin 3 on 7-way, or Pin 2 (brown) on 4-way).  Check to make sure the vehicle still works again with the test plug.  It is possible to blow a fuse in the tow vehicle on this circuit if the circuit is shorted to ground/chassis/skin).  If you blew a fuse, find and fix the fuse in the tow vehicle before proceeding further.  The blinker circuit is naturally protected by the blinker device in the event of short circuit; that is why I prefer to start with blinkers when testing an unknown trailer.  A short circuit on a blinker circuit will cause a rapid blinker action on the tow vehicle.  If you see this, and have no blinker on the trailer, start looking for a short between the blinker pin and ground.
• If you blew a running light fuse, Pull all of the running lights from the trailer and expose the wires.  Check all connections, sockets, bulbs for corrosion, shorts, frayed wires.  Eliminate all running light bulbs except for one in one fixture and try again.  Trace wiring if possible.  Often times running light wiring is chained from one bulb to the next, and connected at the bulbs.  In other words, there may be a short run of wire from the tow plug to a front light.  Then, another short run of wire from that light to the next light, and so on.  Chained.  By disconnecting all of the wires, it is possible to isolate only the front lights, get the much working, then continue adding to the chain until you find the problem.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Conntek+14315&oq=Conntek+14315&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60j69i61.919j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

• Can you update the brakes on my Aristocrat?

Byron Reynolds You may be able to find a backing plate and brake assembly that will work on etrailer if the drums are good

• Reply · September 6, 2016 at 2:12pm

Ryan Dunlap ^ that’s where I got mine

• Reply · September 6, 2016 at 2:14pm

Byron Reynolds Would you be able to share part numbers so I can document them in the FAQ?

• Reply · September 6, 2016 at 2:17pm

Ryan Dunlap sure, let me find the receipt

• Reply · September 6, 2016 at 2:18pm

Ryan Dunlap Left: #23-468 Right:#23-469

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter-Axle/23-468-469.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-468.html

10&quot; Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brake Assembly for 3.5K Axles – LH Dexter Trailer Brakes 23-468

10″ x 2-1/4″ Driver’s-side electric trailer brake assembly fits 3,500-lb axles. Mounting flange has 4-bolt pattern. Lowest Prices for the best trailer brakes from Dexter. 10″ Nev-R-Adjust Electric Brake Assembly for 3.5K Axles – LH part number 23-468 can be ordered online at etrai…

ETRAILER.COM Like

• Reply · Remove Preview ·
• September 6, 2016 at 2:25pm

Trey Shumard did you replace the drums too?

• Reply · September 6, 2016 at 7:54pm

Ryan Dunlap I had mine turned and then painted them black. Look like new

• Reply · September 6, 2016 at 8:19pm

Ryan Dunlap

• September 6, 2016 at 8:32pm
• September 6, 2016 at 8:34pm
• Where can I find a cover for my Aristocrat?

Jerry Fountain recommends…

RVCovers.com 1x ADCO 15’1″ to 18′ Travel Trailer Designer Tyvek Plus Wind RV Cover

Some notes about common 3500# axle spindles that are NOT THE SAME as Aristocrat spindles.  An aristocrat spindle has a D measurement of 0.8437” (21.43mm) and may also have a different B (axle seal) diameter.

• Pingback: Top 15 Old and New Retro Campers: The Retro Vintage Campers Style

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Vintage travel trailers specs and info

Vintage Aloha Trailers 22

Tags: Aloha Trailers

Vintage Aloha trailer

Vintage Aloha Trailer Specifications, Weights and Dimensions

Aloha manufactured economic travel trailers from 1954 to 1970. They were a small company but quite popular.

Vintage Aloha Trailer Models

22 thoughts on “ vintage aloha trailers ”.

Hi there I’m John rouse from portland oregon just wanted too say like the info on the aloha trailers. I own a 1955 compact aloha she’s 13.5 long total. I’m going to have a complete restoration done on her next spring having a good friend in bend oregon do the restore. I’m glad I bought this trailer last march these little canham trailers are hard to find, plus I like the fact that it was built in oregon. I live near portland. Hope too use her a lot when I can she will look like a little shinnie canham when done.

Thanks for this info! I am the owner of a 1968 Aloha I am fixing up now – love it. Some pics and info here: http://www.mollymchugh.com/story-200-vintage-trailer/ .

I have the use of an Aloha trailer for a couple weeks. The nice couple lending it to us received it as compensation for work done and has never used it. Neither knows anything about it. It’s in liveable condition. I’m trying to understand the potable water supply system. Can I ask my questions here or is there a better website to do so?

Hi, I am the proud owner of a 1954 Aloha just wondering if anyone out there has one that old. WOuld love to see photos or get more info on mine. She is 10ft not including tongue and in incredible shape for one this old and mostly original.

I have a 1955 Aloha trailer 13 feet. my husband, cousin and I have replaced the birch panels that were rotted out. We took it to its first rally a couple of weeks ago and had a great time showing it off. This little trailer was a great find. It has most of its original parts. All that I am missing is tail lights for it which is a problem. I can’t find after market tail lights that are surface mounted. All that I can find are recessed into the skin. I’m hoping that someone out there has some or can help me find some. Please help! Asos how come no info for 1955 on your page. Thanks Junell

I have an Aloha camping trailer definitely a vintage one other than that i don’t know much about it. how do i go about finding out info on it? i had thought about selling it as i don’t use it anymore and don’t have know what to ask for a selling price help?

I might be interested if you are looking to sell. Do you have details on condition, year etc? I have an Aloha but someone crashed into it, hit and run. Not sure if it is worth fixing.

The photo for Aloha trailers, the (pink) one is not an Aloha model. It’s a re-done Forester 1966, Just saying.

VintageGuy, I just looked at similar trailer to purchase. It looks just like it but the owner said the title dosent match the name on the trailer. Please give me any insight on this discrepency you may have. The trailer I am intrested in has an Aloha badge left of the door just like the one in the picture. I must admit the title issue scare me away but you may know something that has got me intrested again.

Hi there! I recently acquired a 1964 15′ Aloha travel trailer. Everything has been gutted from the inside so it is now basically an empty room. Curious if anyone out there may have an idea of what the weight would be now that it has been gutted? My car only hauls 1500, wondering if it could haul my beautiful new trailer!

I have an aloha camper im guessing mid 60s. Im trying to sell. Any one interested? My number is 2562522187 located in Alabama. Can send pictures.

Hello there! I purchased a 1971 Aloha trailer from a friend, and completely restored it with a “Hello Kitty” theme. Now, all I need is a decal for the top back. Does anyone know where to find the specifics on the decal and where I may purchase one? (The original one was damaged and painted over).Thanks.

Hey all, we have an alpha travel trailer Title says 1950 “aloa”. Wondering if title is wrong. But it looks exactly like the pink trailer pictured above Including the little wooden corner piece in front and Back hatch picture. Anyone have photos of theirs? mattblaine81@yahoo.com

I recentley purchased a 1965 15′ Aloha Camper. I am trying to register it with the DMV but don’t have a VIN#. Can anypne tell me where I might find this number? I have the origianl Aloha plate near the door that has the Model, Serial# and MFG. I have read it could be on the tongue, but cannot seem to find it, but it has been painted which may be hiding the number? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards John

I recentley purchased a 1965 15′ Aloha Camper. I am trying to register it with the DMV but don’t have a VIN#. Can anypne tell me where I might find this number? I have the origianl Aloha plate near the door that has the Model, Serial# and MFG. I have read it could be on the tongue, but cannot seem to find it, but it has been painted which may be hoding the number?

Also looking for a VIN number for my aloha camper. Any advice on where I could find it would be much appreciated!

Does anyone know how much a 1954 Bellwood trailer weighs?

I also have a ’54 Bellwood Kelly, and have always wondered the same. Did you find the answer anywhere?

Excited to find this page, to learn more about my 1967 16 ft Aloha. It’s been my parent’s trailer since the early 70s and hasn’t been touched in terms of remodeling or rehabbing. If you have advice on how to find out about mold, electrical, or plumbing, I could sure use it. I’d love a couple of names of trailer rehab experts in the Portland area if you know of any. Thanks! I’m so excited to join the club!

I am also excited to find this page. Three years ago we were looking for a vintage small trailer to fix up and found a 1964 Aloha 13 ft. Up in the mountains in Casmier Washington. Three feet of snow on the ground,covered with a shot blue tarp. We hooked up to it and four wheel drive made it down the mountain. I so far hand taken it down to the frame,totally re condition floor ,de skinned her. Rebuilding her was a challenge. But I put new walls ,salvaged what I could to keep the original structure,adding a full bathroom,SS back splash and counters ,storage,and fold down bed.HW tank SS sink. What is so neet about her is the trailer is the only one left out of eight used for temporary housing at the 1962 Seattle worlds fair in1964. And we got her.

George here forgot to mention she cost us 200.00

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• Trailer Weights

Trailer Weights by Trailer Type

How Much Does a Trailer Weigh?

Each type of trailer has a specific purpose, and because of this, the weight of each trailer is different. Trailers also vary greatly in their capacities, lengths and construction.

This trailer weight chart and guide provides the average weight of each type of trailer, as well as the weight range, the gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) and the average load capacity.

Warning! The trailer weights listed below are intended to be a general guideline only. The actual weight and ratings of your specific trailer will vary.

Trailer Weight Chart

Tap each trailer type to read more

Brief explanation of terms

• Empty Weight – The weight of the trailer without any cargo or fluids; also called Dry Weight or Unloaded Weight
• GVWR – The maximum weight a trailer is rated to weigh, including cargo, fluids, etc.
• Load Capacity – The total weight of the cargo a trailer is rated to carry

For further explanation of these terms, visit our Towing Capacity Guide .

Tow your trailer with the right hitch! Find a custom hitch made for your exact vehicle.

Camper Weight Chart

There are several different types of campers, from small teardrop trailers to deluxe 5th wheel RVs. This chart provides a focused look at average weights and capacities for most camper types.

Trailer Weights Explained

Canoe / Kayak Trailer Weight

Canoe and kayak trailers are small trailers used for hauling personal watercraft such as canoes, kayaks and even paddleboards.

They typically weigh between 100 and 400 pounds when unloaded. The average weight of a canoe or kayak trailer is 200 pounds.

Depending on the number of watercraft the trailer is designed to carry -- one, two, four or more – the maximum trailer weight can be anywhere from 200 to 800 pounds.

Jet Ski Trailer Weight

Similar to a small boat trailer, jet ski trailers have an average empty weight of 300 pounds. Smaller jet ski trailers weigh as little as 100 pounds and larger ones are closer to 500 pounds.

When loaded, the weight of a jet ski trailer can fluctuate from 800 to 3,000 pounds with an average load capacity of 1,500 pounds.

Weight ratings will differ based on the number of jet skis the trailer is configured to haul.

Motorcycle Trailer Weight

A motorcycle trailer is designed for transporting a motorcycle, allowing it to be towed by another vehicle. This is different from a trailer towed by a motorcycle, also known as a motorcycle trailer.

Unloaded, a motorcycle trailer may weigh 300 to 800 pounds with an average weight of 500 pounds. They are commonly rated for a maximum trailer weight of 1,300 to 3,500 pounds, making their average load capacity just under 2,000 pounds.

Fishing Boat Trailer Weight

A fishing boat trailer usually weighs 200 to 1,100 pounds on its own, without a boat loaded. The average for a boat trailer is about 600 pounds.

Combined boat and trailer weight ratings ranges from 900 to 6,000 pounds, depending on the length of the trailer and the boat itself.

The average weight capacity for a fishing boat trailer is about 2,700 pounds.

Tow Dolly Weight

A tow dolly for dinghy towing a vehicle usually weighs about 600 pounds without a vehicle hooked up. Some tow dollies weigh as a little as 400 pounds and others as much as 800 pounds, depending on the style and construction.

Tow dolly weight capacity ranges from 3,000 to 5,000 pounds. The capacity refers specifically to the total weight of the dinghy vehicle. However, the average capacity for most tow dollies is closer to 3,400 pounds.

Small Open Utility Trailer Weight

Utility trailers typically weigh about 700 pounds unloaded, but they can vary greatly – from 300 to 1,100 pounds – depending on the construction, width, features, number of axles and more. The type of trailer referred to here is an open utility trailer less than 10 feet long.

The weight capacity of a small utility trailer can also range significantly. A short, aluminum utility trailer may only have a GVWR of 1,000 pounds, while a wide, double-axle, steel utility trailer may be rated for 3,000 pounds.

The average cargo load for small utility trailers is 1,800 pounds.

Small Enclosed Trailer Weight

Empty weight for small enclosed trailers spans from 400 to 1,800 pounds. The average for this type of trailer is 1,000 pounds, but this is determined largely by the materials used to construct the trailer and the number of axles.

When fully loaded, a small enclosed utility trailer can be rated for a maximum of up to 7,000 pounds (GVWR). However, for trailers 12 feet long or less, the average cargo load capacity is typically around 2,200 pounds.

Teardrop Trailer Weight

Teardrop camper trailers weigh between 500 and 3,200 pounds, but the average is about 1,700 pounds. It all depends on the features included. Some teardrop trailers have a fully integrated kitchen and awning system. Others are more basic.

Maximum teardrop camper weight can be as much as 4,000 pounds (GVWR). Some are only rated for 2,000 pounds.

Most teardrop campers aren’t designed to tow a lot of weight, and the average cargo capacity is only about 700 pounds.

A-Frame Camper Weight

An A-frame camper is a specific type of pop up camper trailer. This type of camper usually weighs between 1,200 and 2,300 pounds unloaded. The average weight is 1,700 pounds.

A-frame campers provide a substantial amount of cargo capacity with an overall average of 1,200 pounds. Gross vehicle weight ratings for this type of trailer range from 2,500 up to 3,600 pounds.

Car Trailer Weight

A car trailer can weigh anywhere from 1,500 to 2,800 pounds by itself. The average is 1,900 pounds. With one or more cars loaded, that weight increases to as much as 15,000 pounds.

The weight of a car trailer largely depends on its construction, length and style. A bumper pull car hauler with length enough for one car may have a GVWR of 6,000 pounds, while a double-car gooseneck trailer could max out at 15,000 pounds. Additionally, aluminum car trailer weight and capacity will vary greatly from steel.

On average, the load capacity for car trailers is 7,100 pounds.

Large Boat Trailer Weight

Larger boat trailers are used for hauling yachts, pontoon boats and other heavy watercraft. For this type of trailer, the empty weight ranges from 1,100 to 4,400 pounds, and the average is about 2,200 pounds.

When loaded with a large boat, the trailer weight increases greatly. The capacity depends on the build of the trailer and its configuration. GVWR can be as low as 5,400 pounds or as high as 34,400 pounds.

Average load capacity for large boat trailers is around 11,400 pounds.

Pop Up Camper Weight

The average weight of a pop up camper is about 2,300 pounds unloaded. Some are as little as 1,400, and others weigh as much as 3,000 pounds if they are equipped with certain features.

When fully loaded (GVWR), pop up trailer weight can range from 2,700 up to 4,000 pounds, giving this type of camper an average load capacity of 1,100 pounds. This provides plenty of room for a propane tank, water tank, grille, bedding, luggage and other necessary cargo for a successful campout.

Large Enclosed Trailer Weight

Large enclosed trailers, namely those 12 feet or longer with a bumper pull coupler, typically weigh about 2,700 pounds when empty. Some are little as 900 pounds. Heavy-duty models weigh up to 5,200 pounds.

The capacity of a large enclosed utility trailer can vary based on how many axles it has, the construction of the frame and other factors.

In general, the average cargo capacity is 4,400 pounds. However, some 12-foot enclosed trailers only have a gross vehicle weight rating of 3,000 pounds. Longer units are rated as high as 10,000 pounds.

Small Travel Trailer Weight

A smaller travel trailer – about 22 feet long or less – has an average weight of about 2,800 pounds. The unloaded weight range is typically between 1,200 and 3,900 pounds.

The gross vehicle weight rating of small travel trailers varies from 1,900 pounds up to 4,500 pounds.

Generally, small travel trailers don’t have a lot of extra cargo capacity. The average is only about 800 pounds. However, some are rated to carry as much as 1,400 pounds. The cargo capacity may increase with certain design features and additional axles.

Small Horse Trailer Weight

A horse trailer designed to transport one or two horses typically weighs between 2,300 and 3,900 pounds. With horses and cargo loaded, this number increases. The average empty weight of a horse trailer is about 2,900 pounds.

When loaded up, small horse trailers max out at 7,000 or 8,000 pounds (GVWR). This allows for a cargo capacity of about 4,300 pounds.

Load capacities vary by trailer style and construction. A simple, one-horse trailer made from aluminum will weigh far less than a deluxe, two-horse trailer with a steel frame.

Large Flatbed Trailer Weight

Large flatbed trailers, such as car haulers, equipment trailers and utility flatbeds, can weigh anywhere from 500 to 7,700 pounds, even when empty.

However, because they are designed for transporting large amounts of cargo, most large flatbed trailers – that is, bumper pull flatbed trailers – have a higher cargo capacity. The average is about 7,400 pounds.

For gross trailer weight ratings on flatbed trailers, the low end is around 2,900, but some are rated as high as 26,000 pounds, even with a bumper pull configuration. Gooseneck models are rated even higher.

Dump Trailer Weight

When empty, a dump trailer can weigh anywhere from 1,100 to just over 10,000 pounds. The average weight for dump trailers is 4,500 pounds unloaded.

This type of trailer is extremely useful for transporting large amounts of fine or loose materials – everything from gravel to demolition waste. The hydraulic or powered dump receptacle makes unloading fast and easy.

The smallest dump trailers have a gross vehicle weight rating of 3,000 pounds. The largest models can weigh as much as 30,000 pounds. The average GVWR for dump trailers is around 12,400 pounds.

Large Travel Trailer Weight

A large travel trailer – anything around 20 feet or longer – has an average weight of about 6,700 pounds. Specifically, this refers to the travel trailer dry weight. This weight is largely dependent on the types of features and how many axles the trailer has.

Some larger travel trailers only weigh about 4,500 pounds, but the largest are around 9,000 pounds. 5th wheel camper trailers weigh even more.

When fully loaded with cargo, supplies and fluids, the gross vehicle weight rating of a travel trailer can vary from 6,300 to 10,500 pounds. The average cargo capacity of a bumper pull travel trailer is 1,600 pounds.

Gooseneck Flatbed Trailer Weight

Gooseneck flatbed trailers and utility trailers generally have higher weight ratings than their bumper pull cousins. A typical gooseneck flatbed trailer weighs about 7,000 pounds without cargo.

Smaller gooseneck flatbeds can weigh as little as 4,700 pounds, but the largest are upwards of 10,000 pounds.

For gross vehicle weight ratings, gooseneck flatbed trailers are built for heavy-duty hauling, whether it’s construction materials, farm equipment or automotive toys. Some are only rated for a maximum weight just under 16,000 pounds. Heavier-duty options are rated up to 36,000 pounds.

The average load capacity for gooseneck flatbed trailers is 16,000 pounds.

Large Livestock Trailer Weight

Larger livestock trailers range in weight from 4,200 to nearly 11,000 pounds when unloaded. With animals and cargo on board, that range increases up to 24,000 pounds (GVWR).

Livestock trailers are fairly diverse in their design and size. For example, a 20-foot aluminum bumper pull livestock trailer will be much lighter than a 40-foot steel gooseneck horse trailer. Some livestock trailers are also equipped with wash stalls, a living space and other features, adding to the overall weight.

The average empty weight for large livestock trailers is about 7,300 pounds. For load capacity, the average is around 11,400 pounds.

Toy Hauler Weight

A toy hauler is a bumper pull, 5th wheel or gooseneck trailer with a living space and a large compartment for transporting ATVs, UTVs, dirt bikes and other recreational motorsport vehicles.

Toy haulers, when unloaded, range in weight from 3,600 to 11,400 pounds, with an average of about 7,600 pounds.

Because they’re built for transporting smaller vehicles, toy haulers generally have a higher cargo capacity. The average is about 10,000 pounds.

Gross vehicle weight ratings for toy hauler trailer can vary from just under 15,000 to over 22,000 pounds.

5th Wheel Camper Weight

5th wheel campers have an average weight of 12,700 pounds, empty and unloaded. Smaller models weigh as little as 5,000 pounds, while the largest 5th wheel camper trailers weigh up to 16,000 pounds.

To allow plenty of space for camping gear, equipment, cargo and fluids, the average load capacity is 6,000 pounds.

When fully loaded and ready for towing, most 5th wheel campers have a gross vehicle weight rating between 17,000 and 20,000 pounds.

1.  How much does a camper weigh?

A camper can weigh anywhere from 500 to 20,000 pounds. It all depends on the style of the camper. For example, a teardrop camper usually weighs about 1,500 pounds unloaded, while a 36-foot 5th wheel camper can weigh as much as 15,000 pounds, even when empty.

2. How much does a teardrop trailer weigh?

A teardrop trailer is one of the smallest camper types and one of the lightest. They typically weigh between 500 and 3,000 pounds, but the average is closer to 1,500. Some teardrop camper trailers have a gross vehicle weight rating as high as 4,000 pounds.

3. How much do pop up campers weigh?

Pop up campers weigh between 1,400 and 4,000 pounds. When empty and unloaded the average weight for pop up campers is about 2,300 pounds. However, they can also carry an average cargo load of 1,100 pounds. For maximum vehicle weight, a pop up camper can range from 2,700 to 4,000 pounds (GVWR).

4. How much does a small camper weigh?

A small camper can weigh anywhere from 500 pounds to 4,500 pounds, depending on the style. Teardrop campers, pop up campers and shorter travel trailers can all be classified as small campers. The average weight of a teardrop camper is about 2,000 pounds with cargo, and the average for small travel trailers is about 3,000 pounds.

5. How much does a travel trailer weigh?

Travel trailers vary in weight from 1,200 to almost 9,000 pounds. They come in various lengths, styles and builds, allowing for a diverse weight range. Smaller travel trailers have an average maximum weight of about 3,500 pounds (GVWR). Some larger travel trailers can max out at over 10,000 pounds when fully loaded up.

6. How much does a 5th wheel weigh?

5th wheel trailers are one of the heaviest types of trailer, with an average empty weight of about 13,000 pounds. The average gross vehicle weight rating for 5th wheel trailers is around 18,000 pounds, but some are as much as 20,000. Additionally, gooseneck trailers with a 5th wheel conversion can be even heavier.

7. How much does a boat trailer weigh?

Boat trailers by themselves can weigh as little as 100 pounds or as much as 4,400 pounds. The weight is determined by the length of the trailer and the type of boat or boats it is designed to carry. For example, jet ski trailers are about 300 pounds on average. Standard fishing boat trailers usually don’t weigh more than 1,000 pounds. Large yacht trailers, even without a boat loaded on, can easily be over 4,000 pounds.

8. How much does a boat and trailer weigh?

A boat and trailer together can weigh anywhere between 900 and 35,000 pounds. For small fishing boats and jon boats, the total weight for the boat and trailer ranges from 900 to 6,000 pounds. On the other hand, a heavy-duty yacht trailer and its craft together can easily weigh beyond 30,000 pounds.

9. How much does a horse trailer weigh?

Horse trailers vary in length, construction and features. A basic, aluminum single-horse trailer usually weighs less than 3,000 pounds. On the other hand, 12-horse trailers or horse trailers with a living space, elaborate wash stalls and other equipment can weigh upwards of 20,000 pounds.

10. How much does a 2-horse trailer weigh?

2-horse trailers weigh between 2,000 and 8,000 pounds. Some are more simple and constructed from lightweight materials. Others are more elaborate and longer, even though the horse capacity remains at 2 maximum. The average load capacity for a 2-horse trailer is about 4,000 pounds.

11. How much does an enclosed trailer weigh?

The weight of an enclosed trailer can fluctuate from 400 pounds to more than 20,000 pounds, depending on the style of the trailer and whether it is loaded with cargo or not. For example, a small, basic, enclosed utility trailer, empty of all cargo, may only weigh 500 pounds. Conversely, a toy hauler loaded up with a few ATVs might weigh in at 22,000 pounds.

12. How much does a car trailer weigh?

An unloaded car trailer usually weighs between 1,500 and 3,000 pounds. Gooseneck-style car trailers can weigh over 10,000 pounds. The construction, length and number cars the trailer is built to transport can make a huge difference. When loaded, the weight of some car trailers can increase to as much as 36,000 pounds.

Warning! The trailer weights listed on this page are intended to be a general guideline only. The actual weight and ratings of your specific trailer will vary.

Written by Johnathan R. Smith • September 8, 2018 • 3:28 pm • Guides

Camper Weight Chart (10 RV Weight & Size Examples)

How Much Does A Camper Weigh?

The average camper weighs approximately 5,200 pounds , however this is only the dry weight of the camper and additional items need to be factored in when determining the total weight of the camper. 

Lets discuss a few camper weight definitions you need to know when you are deciding upon your first trailer purchase and the average weight of the camper for towing capacity and safety reasons.

The potential legal and insurance ramifications should deter any ignorance because a lack of knowledge in this particular subject could be very costly.

There are laws and regulations in place that are meant to act as guidelines to keep you safe and those around you safe.

Okay, first, since you are curious about the weight of the trailers, let’s take a look at those before we get into the other weight numbers that you will need to know.

Example Camper Weights

• 1,545 Lbs (Unloaded Vehicle Weight) – 13 Feet – 2019 10RK Hummingbird Trailer
• 2,860 Lbs (Batteries and LPs Included) – 16 Feet – 2018 Sport 16RB Trailer
• 2,980 Lbs (Unloaded Vehicle Weight) – 19 Feet 10 Inches – 2019 17RK Hummingbird Trailer
• 3321 Lbs – (Shipped Weight) – 21 Feet 5 Inches – Keystone 175 LHS Single Axle Trailer
• 3,634 Lbs (Batteries and LPs included) – 22 Feet – 2018 Sport 22FB Trailer
• 4761 Lbs (Batteries and LPs Included) – 23 Feet – 2018 International Serenity 23CB Trailer
• 6,586 Lbs (Batteries and LPs Included) – 28 Feet – 2018 Airstream Land Yacht Trailer
• 5625 Lbs (Unloaded) – 29 Feet 2 Inches – 2019 24MBH White Hawk Trailer
• 7,757 Lbs (Unloaded) – 37 Feet 10 Inches – 2019 32BHS White Hawk Trailer
• 6,620 Lbs (Unloaded) – 35 Feet 3 Inches – 2019 30RD White Hawk Trailer

Camper Composition & Trailer Weight

Generally speaking, there are two types of campers; those made of aluminum and those made of fiberglass.

There are benefits to both, so you will need to make some calculations and decide what is right for you and your situation. Here’s a quick rundown:

Aluminum is cheaper than the fiberglass campers which should immediately indicate which one is perceived as the superior product.

You should know that aluminum isn’t a bad product.

True it can be damaged more easily than the fiberglass campers, but those damaged sections are cheap and easy to replace.

Their exterior structure is made of shingles which makes removing one piece and replacing it with another super simple and cheap.

The downside to these trailers is that they often have wooden frames which isn’t the lightest material that you could choose.

This has a direct impact upon your gas mileage, and puts an additional strain upon your truck and its transmission.

This is usually considered to be the superior material for a number of reasons.

The exterior is much more durable, so it will do a better job of holding up to the various rocks kicked its way as well as other sources of potential dents to the fiberglass.

However, when something inevitably does damage it, it will be more expensive to repair

Fiberglass also stays cleaner and maintains its shine better than others.

Its smooth surface is also easier to clean than the aluminum shingles. Since these campers look better over a longer duration, their resell price holds up better.

That isn’t the only reason for the better reselling price.

The fiberglass exteriors usually mean that the structure of the camper is made of aluminum piping rather than wood. This means better gas mileage.

That isn’t a big deal for short and uncommon trips, but it will add up fast of you intend to take the camper around the country.

Trailer Weight Definitions to Know

Okay, hopefully that gives you an idea of the camper weights that you will be encountering. Let’s move onto some definitions.

Afterwards, we can go a bit more into how you can use these numbers to keep everyone safe and help prevent you from destroying your transmission.

It is important to remember that just because you can move the trailer, it doesn’t mean that nothing is going wrong.

Side Note – You can find a lot of the truck-related information on the driver-side door of the truck.

That same information can also be found on the truck’s manual and on the manufacturer’s website

Vehicle Curb (Also called Kerb) Weight

This is the weight of the vehicle with absolutely nothing inside of it. It is the weight of the vehicle itself.

It may or may not include the additional weight of a full tank of fuel, so there can be some variation there. In the United States, a driver is not included in the calculation.

In Europe, many of the manufacturers will add 165 lbs. to account for the driver.

Dry Weight is like Curb Weight except all of the vehicle’s consumables such as fuel, oil, washer fluid, coolant, etc. are not included in the calculation.

Gross Vehicle Weight

This is the combined weight of the vehicle, the people inside the vehicle, and any cargo that is located inside of the vehicle.

To clarify, the Gross Vehicle Weight does not include anything hauled behind the vehicle.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating

This is the the maximum operating weight of the vehicle. The manufacturers are including the weight of the vehicle of this calculation.

You will have exceeded this number if you drive onto a scale and the number displayed exceeds the GVWR number in the vehicle’s manual.

Gross Combined Weight Rating

The GCWR is the maximum weight of absolutely everything.

When you total the vehicle, everything inside the vehicle, the towing apparatus, the trailer, and everything inside the trailer, it should be less than this number.

Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)

This is the maximum weight that can be placed on the specified axle.

The individual ratings of each axle will likely be specified with a FR (Front Rating) and a RR (Rear Rating).

Additional Camper Weight Considerations.

Campers with Slides

At the turn of the 21st century, campers began to incorporate a sliding room system that expanded the living space from what was essentially a hallway to something a bit more comfortable.

This was a fantastic addition for every camper’s quality of life, but it is also a rather heavy addition. Typically, there will be an additional 750+ lbs per slide.

Water, Food, Clothing, and other random necessities

You might be surprised how quickly the random items that you toss into your camper will quickly add up.

The water alone will typically add about 400 lbs to the load, so don’t fill up until you are at your destination.

According to several sources – You will probably be looking at a rough 1,500 pounds added to the curb weight of your camper when you are all packed up and ready to go.

That will vary of course. Here is some reference material of the bulkier items to help you calculate the amount of weight that you can expect to be adding to your camper.

Potable Water

Yeah, you are probably going to want water.

Most RV sites offer showers and water hookups, so you should be able to fill up at the location.

However you should be aware of the total estimated weight if you are going to carry it with you.

Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon. Assuming that you have the rough average of a 40 gallon tank, you will be adding 332 pounds of weight just with that single addition.

Propane Tank

Okay, it isn’t the heaviest item, but it is one of the heavier common items.

You likely have a 30 to 40 pound propane tank.

That base weight of the 30 to 40 pound tank will increase by 25 to 34 pounds respectively.

Each person is expected to add 175 pounds each.

That is the combined average of the typical adult male (191 Pounds) and typical adult female (159 Pounds).

I’m not saying that we should each be eating an average of 3 to 5 pounds of food per day; I am simply listing the averages, so that you can use them in your calculations.

Floor Jack and random tools

The floor jack is going to cost you 35 Lbs, and don’t forget about the other tools that you will probably want to keep handy.

Miscellaneous information

Of course, you will also have 100’s of pounds of random supplies that range from a toaster to toiletries.

Oh, and you will want your books. Don’t forget your Ipad because you really don’t want to leave that behind.

Don’t forget your charging cables…It will add up fast. There are a thousand little items like that that will steal your available weight one ½ pound at a time.

I’d recommend not waiting to pack till the last day because of how common it is to load everything up and find yourselves overweight.

Camper Weight Distribution – Just as Important as Total Weight

One rv is not like the other.

Many people make the mistake of assuming that RV manufacturers take weight distribution into account. Unfortunately, that is not always true.

Sometimes, presentation is the focus because obviously, presentation sells.

I’m not saying this is normal, but it is something to research before committing to a purchase.

I recently made a trip from Bend, Oregon to Orlando Florida.

It was a mad dash that took my brothers and I three days to complete. It was a blast…but it also had it’s risky moments.

A couple times w hile we made our way across the rather boring states in the center of the United States, we came across a couple different campers that were swaying back and forth.

The drivers were doing a good job controlling their vehicles, but you could feel their panic as the winds battered there sides.

A little sway was constantly making the rest of us rather uncomfortable.

Now, there is only so much that you can do in a situation like that.

The one thing that I highly recommend is purchasing a hitch built with anti-sway and weight distributing capabilities.

The Equalizer is the favored hitch at the moment, but there are many other good hitches out there.

Keep in mind that some of them should not be used in icy conditions, so be aware of what your hitch can and cannot do.

Tongue Weight

When dealing with such heavy weights, balance becomes a big issue.

One of the factors needed to achieve this balance is the tongue weight.

This is the calculated weight that is being applied to the ball of the hitch.

Ideally, roughly 9 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight will be placed upon this point.

Camper Weight Management

The tow hitch rating should exceed the need.

If you are searching for the right camper then you might also be looking for a new towing hitch.

If that is the case, make sure to buy a hitch that is rated for an amount of weight that exceeds what you plan on hooking onto the back of your truck.

The common consensus to exceed that weight by 10 to 30%. Just keep that in mind when you are looking.

Campers hold quite a bit of weight, and can demolish another vehicle if the hitch fails.

You’ll be thankful that you did when you inevitably need to make a sharp turn to avoid a careless driver.

It brings peace of mind knowing that the hitch is less likely to snap or bend.

Don’t Max out the Weight of your Trailer and Vehicle

On a similar note, you shouldn’t load up your trailer and truck to the top of what the Truck is rated to carry and pull.

Just because it can move, does not mean that it can move well.

It is a common mistake to purchase a camper and load it up until it just barely fits within the capabilities of the truck.

Your truck will have a difficult time maintaining the speed limit when hauling that load up the steeper hills.

I have seen this countless times, as I’m sure that you probably have too. That is also a fantastic way to burn up the transmission of your truck.

Braking Considerations

When calculating the weights, keep in mind that the more weight you have, the more difficult it will be to stop in the event of an emergency.

For safety, stay as light as possible; you are not just risking your life out there, you are risking others as well. 

You will also be wearing down your brake pads faster.

Do yourself a favor, trim the campers weight and have a safer journey.

I really don’t want you to get hurt.

Weighing Stations – Ticket Warning

You may or may not be aware of this, but there are weigh station checkpoints and police officers with portable scales that are stationed along the major roads to monitor the trucks that are hauling various cargo.

Some of these weigh stations can require campers to stop, but the qualifications for required stops vary from state to state ( You can find more information here weigh stations and RVs ).

About half of the states won’t require you to stop unless your load exceeds 10,000 pounds, but that isn’t the case .

You could be driving away with a hefty fine if the the weight being towed exceeds the tow rating that is listed on the inside of your truck door. Please be careful.

Conclusion on Camper Weight

There are many factors to consider when looking for the average trailer weight. My recommendation is to look at some of the forums of the specific RV that you are looking to purchase to see what other RV owners have experienced with the particular trailer that you are looking at. The overall weight is going to be different than than the dry weight and every owner typically has their own items that they use that should be factored in when thinking about towing capacity.

Recommended RV Articles

• Best Travel Trailers Under 4000 Pounds (Light Towable Trailers)
• Best Travel Trailers Under 2000 Pounds (lbs)
• Best Travel Trailers Under 5,000 Lbs
• 10 Best Pop Up Campers (2020 & 2021)
• 6 Best Teardrop Trailers for 2021
• Do RVs Have to Stop at Weigh Stations?
• Average RV Tank Size and Gas Mileage (MPG) Chart

About the Author / Johnathan R. Smith

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