trek bb90 gxp install

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Putting a gxp crank in a bb90 shimano bottom bracket - best way?

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Post by alcatraz » Wed Mar 14, 2018 12:41 am --> by alcatraz on Wed Mar 14, 2018 12:41 am

Post by jlok » Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:21 am --> by jlok on Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:21 am

by » Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:21 am --> by Weenie on Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:21 am

Post by 743power » Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:28 am --> by 743power on Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:28 am

Post by alcatraz » Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:36 am --> by alcatraz on Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:36 am

Post by jlok » Wed Mar 14, 2018 11:01 am --> by jlok on Wed Mar 14, 2018 11:01 am

Post by Marin » Wed Mar 14, 2018 11:16 am --> by Marin on Wed Mar 14, 2018 11:16 am

Post by alcatraz » Wed Mar 14, 2018 12:59 pm --> by alcatraz on Wed Mar 14, 2018 12:59 pm

jlok wrote: ↑ Wed Mar 14, 2018 11:01 am Somewhere ard 50Nm to tighten the NDS arm. Never seen GxP plastic adaptor / reducer. Good luck. Sent from my SM-N9500 using Tapatalk

Post by jlok » Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:00 pm --> by jlok on Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:00 pm

Post by wheelbuilder » Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:33 pm --> by wheelbuilder on Wed Mar 14, 2018 3:33 pm

Post by Marin » Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:08 pm --> by Marin on Wed Mar 14, 2018 10:08 pm

Post by alcatraz » Wed Mar 14, 2018 11:34 pm --> by alcatraz on Wed Mar 14, 2018 11:34 pm

Post by jlok » Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:10 am --> by jlok on Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:10 am

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by » Thu Mar 15, 2018 3:55 am --> by Weenie on Thu Mar 15, 2018 3:55 am

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SRAM GXP FITTING IN A BB90 BOTTOM BRACKET

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Trek BB90 Is Amazing When You Do It The BBInfinite Way

December 28, 2022

From the mighty Madone to the cross crushing Boone BB90 offers superb spin performance low weight and unparalleled stiffness when you do it the BBInfinite way let me show you how right now using an appropriate drift or a BBInfinite mts one in drift configuration walk the bearing out a twelve six nine three type pattern clean the bottom bracket shell with denatured alcohol or white lightning clean streak for BB ninety standard kids apply the Vibra-tite 530 the outer races if the Vibra-tite is running off you have applied too much for BB90 GXP kits install the non-drive side bearing and then the GXP bushing install the drive side bearing now this is totally normal if you hear this creaking sound right here totally normal now if you have a BB90 kit for Shimano you can drive both bearings in simultaneously and now if this was a repair kit you would leave this in for 24 hours this is a brand new frame in perfect condition so we're going to move on finish with kit specific hardware and install the crank only use what is provided with your BB90 kit do not use old hardware. I'll have to give the crank a little bit of a spin just to make sure nothing's binding and torque it to spec.

We installed one of our BB90 Ceramitech kits in this gorgous new Trek Boone. This is going to serve as our new Trek BB90 installation vid as it addresses several questions we got regarding our "classic" BB90 installation vid...blah blah blah...it was an excuse to feature a Boone. What a bike! Here's a link to our maintenance video; https://youtu.be/9wtP2rRjR2E And our BB90 pages: https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/trek-bb90-shimano https://www.bbinfinite.com/products/trek-bb90-gxp?variant=45881541710 Product Selection Section Which type of bottom bracket module do I need?? Email us at [email protected] and let know the bicycle frame type (e.g. road), frame manufacturer, frame model and model year, and crank type (manufacturer and model), and with this information we'll reply with a link directly to the product you need. Attach a few pictures showing the crank and bottom bracket area clearly, and one of the entire bicycle to aid us in our quest to get you on the right track. Creaking Bottom Bracket Section My bottom bracket is creaking and I've tried everything to fix it. How does a BBInfinite Bottom Bracket module fix a creaking problem? We fit creaking bottom brackets with proper engineering and precision machining. Watch this brief BBInfinite primer PressFit Perfection to get the lowdown on how we do it while all others fail. I heard that PressFit bikes just creak. Is that true? No, that is completely false information. PressFit bb's offer the potential for the highest level performance possible, thanks to BBInfinite. There is no reason for your PressFit bike to creak, crunch, crack, or make any noises at all. Unless the frame is cracked the bike will be quiet. Can a creaking and popping bottom bracket damage my frame? Yes, it can. A creaking bottom bracket means there's movement between the bb and the frame. The more a bicycle bottom bracket creaks the more it is moving. This movement over time can wallow out the frame bb shell openings, enlarging them and elongating them, making them more susceptible to creaking and making it impossible to fit new bb's. Don't freak out, it takes a long time. We've seen only a handful of bikes go in the junk heap due to bb shell ovalization. Install a BBInfinite module to save your frame, and your sanity. General Bottom Bracket Information Section How much do the modules weigh? Each module model has its weight published under the product description. Go to the BBInfinite bottom bracket page for the type of bottom bracket you desire and you'll find a series of tabs in the product description area. The "info" tab is open already. The last tab "specifications" is where you'll find the product weight along with it's external dimensions. Do all BBInfinite Modules have bushings in the middle? No. Only modules designed for a 30mm spindle require a bushing due to variances in 30mm crank set design and "set up" from one manufacturer to another. These inconsistencies are mostly in the area of preload adjustment methods that put too much side load on the bearings. These over-preloading situations require the use of a bushing between the inner races of each bearing to ensure proper performance. Shimano DirectFit and Campagnolo DirectFit models do not need a bushing. GXP modules have a short bushing that reduces the bearing diameter on one side, but it is not a full length version found on BBInfinite 30mm crank spindle models.. Can I use adaptors with a BBInfinite Module? We'd rather you didn't. Technically, it is possible, but such action departs from the basic principles of BBInfinite engineering methodology. Adaptors cause creaks and bearing alignment problems, and are unnecessary when you can select the proper BBInfinite Module for your frame and crank set for a creak-free, high performance riding experience. How long do the bearings last? It varies. Road applications typically last 8,000-12,000 miles for steel bearings and 8,000-12,000 miles for Ceramitech bearings. MTB applications are entirely dependent upon conditions, especially water exposure. Example: A Category 1 MTB racer can usually go an entire season, racing a full schedule, on a single set of bearings of either type. Ceramitechs are better in wet conditions due to a high degree of corrosion resistance. Will a BBInfinite Module work with my power crank/power meter? Absolutely. We designed them specifically to be compatible with even the somewhat troublesome-to-fit older model SRM cranks. BBInfinite Modules are compatible with all power cranks/power meters. Are BBInfinite Modules compatible with my Rotor Qrings / Osymetric rings? Absolutely. BBInfinite Modules are compatible with all chain rings; be they round, not-so-round, or almost square.

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Bottom Bracket Selection Guide

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Trek BB90/GXP problems

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I have a new 2011 Trek 9.8 hardtail. It uses a BB90 bottom bracket and I use Sram cranks. So I purchase the Sram bearing kit and get home to put it on and there is alot of lateral movement. The non drive side crank bearing won't even stay in. I am using a brand new Sram X9 10 speed crankset. I can/will not buy a new crankset or bearings after I just bought a new set. Has anyone else had this problem with the Sram crankset? and how did you fix it, if you can at all. I am to the point of just selling the frame. I also will attempt to call Trek tomorrow and see what kind of run around they will give me.  

I had a similar problem with my Madone. Sram Red crank was "loose" on the non-drive side. Sram said spindle was in spec, bearings were in spec, but spindle was on the small side and bearing on the large side, so ended up with a sloppy fit. I ended up selling it and getting a Rotor crankset. Rotor crank meshed perfectly with the bearings. I can't recall how tight the bearings were in the frame, but they could be removed/installed without tools or extreme hand pressure.  

Did you install the Rotor cranks into the same BB, or did you buy a different one? SRAM uses a 22mm ID bearing on the NDS while Shimano/Rotor use a 24mm ID bearing on the NDS. They both use a 24mm ID bearing on the DS.  

There is a specific bearing/spacer kit for this that most shops don't have in stock-- need from trek. With the spacers/bearings you have, they cranks would likely work fine in a bb95 (vast majority of trek mtbs). I have a pic of the spacer kit and trek product number, will try to post shortly on break from work  

My guess is you installed your GXP crank in your hardtail mtb bb90 with kit 404700, which resulted in play. Note that 404700 is for GXP with BB95. You need kit 415734; which contains bearings (same as other kit I think) with different spacers, specifically for gxp mtb cranks with BB90 bottom brackets. your trek hardtail, and my carbon top fuel, have bb90 bottom brackets... so I went through this same issue. Good luck.  

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Thank you that is good to know, Sadly the Trek dealer said these were the ones I needed. I fixed the problem by installing a drive side bearing out of my GXP BB on the non drive side and installed the washer to fix the spacing. I will definitely will order the bearings to get is correct. the funny thing it list the carbon hardtail to work as well. UPDATE: Trek does not have this part in any warehouse in the country and no time frame in getting any. I called 15 different dealers to find one and finally the Trek Superstore in San Diego had it. Thank god for him.  

The bearing set included both with the new frame. So swapped out the Sram bearing for the Shimano with the Rotor crank.  

Ah, okay. Just making sure. I've just never heard of the problem you were having. The SRAM and Shimano bearing sets also use different bearing shields, but if you were using the Shimano shields on the SRAM bearings, the setup would be way too tight axially instead of too loose radially.  

Basically my lbs sold me the wrong bottom bracket kit for my bike and I needed a different kit that is know where to be found in the WHOLE country. The Trek superstore also sent me the same kit I already had. In short just get a bike with a standard threaded BB. So I have a brand new frame that is hanging in my garage that is useless until I get the correct bearing spacer kit from trek.  

Finally got the correct BB kit from Trek and it bolted up perfectly. Thanks rfxc for the tip, I honestly think my local shop did'nt have a clue about which kit I needed. Surprising the mechanics didn't even know this. I will take her on her maiden voyage tomorrow.  

Sorry to dredge up an old thread. But I'm having the same problem with a 2010 TREK Elite XC carbon hardtail frame. The BB is def. a BB90 and i'm installing a SRAM GXP MTB crank. If you think it's hard to find this kit in USA then its basically impossible in South Africa. So i'm trying to work another solution. Can you remember if the NDS bearing from this kit was a normal bearing or did it also have the extended inner race like the other BB95 kits. The standard bearing in kit 405700 was a 22 ID X 37 OD with the outer race being 8mm and the inner race extended to 11.5mm. The only solution I can do is to use a standard 22 X 37 X 8 bearing without the extended inner race.  

Hi guys, I'm jumping on the thread as I have just bought a Trek Elite 9.6 (2013) I sold all the deore running gear as I have SRAM X9 shifters and Mechs I wanted to use. I am either going to get a X9 or XO crank depending on price/availability. I assume I'm going to need the same kit 415734 to run either of these GXP cranksets? cheers......  

Yes you will need the 415734 kit, I have an X9 crankset on my Trek and have not had a problem since I installed them. Dan  

cheers, I have asked my LBS to source it from TREK as I can't find it online anywhere.. Dan  

I used a ceramic bearing kit from CRCBike. Fit perfectly and have not had a problem in 1500+ miles. My next frame will have the same bearings in it.  

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Fitting a Token Ninja Trek BB90 Bottom Bracket

If you’re looking for information on fitting the Token Ninja alternative to the Trek BB90 bottom bracket… well you’ve come to the right place.

To be honest, the information is best delivered in visual form, so here is my YouTube video:

Some salient points:

• I decided to replace the standard Trek press-fit BB90 bearings because I was sick of them going rusty and squeaky
• I have replaced the official bearings before – here’s the link to my post on removing and installing new BB90 bearings (on a Trek Domane – but applies to other bikes)
• The Token Ninja is a sort of ‘screw together’ bottom bracket, rather than press-fit or threaded.
• You need the dedicated Token tool (specific to this model of bottom bracket) to fit it. This tool is a pain to get hold of. I’ve bought two of them now (I helped a Canadian viewer of my YouTube channel out by sending him my first one) – both times from the Token distributor based in Poland (I’m in the UK).
• Getting the press-fit BB90 bearings out of the bike is a pain (watch the video). Fitting the new Token Ninja bottom bracket is a breeze. It’s harder to get the fitting tool than it is to install the bottom bracket.
• I’ve had the Token Ninja BB90 fitted for well over 12 months now and it’s still working well (though in recent months, this bike has been installed on my Wahoo KICKR indoor trainer ). No creaks and I have no concerns. At some point soon, I’ll get the bike in the stand and take a proper look at it.

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3 thoughts on “Fitting a Token Ninja Trek BB90 Bottom Bracket”

Hi Monty Re the Token Ninja BB90 solution – it is a great idea. Have you seen that you can get a replacement bearing so that you can replace the bearing with the sleeve left in the bike? It is available at https://sklep.token-polska.pl/

I have a pair of bearings & a Wheels Mfg puller to remove the old bearings safely. However, the bearing is an odd size (OD 34mm) & shape. Consequently, I don’t have a suitable drift to press the new bearing in. Any ideas??

I just replace it same method you clip here by a shop who a prepare part and important mechanic tool (ninja) its so smooth and solve my left side of BB creaking sound and over loosed.

Sorry eak. What you’ve got say is important but your comments appear to be somewhat unclear.

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BB92 (&86) – Complete Guide to Installation and Removal

• by Johnson Li

Welcome to your complete guide to BB86 & BB92 bottom brackets.

What are they? What are the differences?

And how do you install and/or remove this type of bottom bracket?

You’ll find all the answers here.

If you are just looking to fast-track removal or installation, the jump to the installation and removal section right here .

• From Threaded to Press Fit
• What are the Differences Among BB86, BB90, & BB92?
• Are BB92 and PF92 the Same?
• What Cranks Fit BB92?
• Will BB30 Fit BB92?
• Unique BB92 Removal & Installation Tool

Installing BB86 & BB92

• Removing BB86 & BB92

FROM THREADED SIMPLICITY to PRESS FIT COMPLEXITY  

The press fit revolution has produced a variety of innovations and particular specifications.

BB30 kicked it off with PF30 quickly following. Both took the spindle diameter – 30mm – as their measure.

PF30 Bottom Bracket—The Complete Guide

The press fit standards which followed made it possible to use 24mm spindle cranks in a press-fit environment.

A complicating factor is that the bottom bracket shell diameter of each standard is different: 41mm BB86/92); 42mm (BB30); 46mm (PF30).

And that is just for the most common variants. Individual brands have their own specifications alongside of these.

The latest chapter in the press-fit saga is SRAM’s DUB system.

SRAM DUB Toolset—The Only One of its Kind

You get the advantages of a 30mm crank (28.99mm to be exact) and either a threaded or press-fit bottom bracket to fit the range of the most common (41,42,46mm) bb shell diameters.

Also check out our Bottom Bracket Tool post, covering bottom brackets and the tools you need to install, remove, and maintain them .

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES AMONG BB86, BB90, BB92?

BB86 vs BB92? No difference. They are one and the same bottom bracket.

Well, BB86 refers to road bikes with their 86.5mm shell; BB92 refers to mountain bikes with their 91.5mm BB shells.

BB90 is Trek’s proprietary standard and is the odd one out here .

Like BB30, the bearings sit directly in the bottom bracket shell. Neither BB90 nor BB30 is as widely used as the others. BB90 is obviously brand specific. BB30’s issues has seen it long since overtaken by PF30.

BB86 and BB92 enjoy widespread adoption these days probably because they strike a compromise between a radical break from the past vs a degree of continuity.

And, of course, they are the standard offerings from the market leader, Shimano.

BB86 & BB92 Examples

This is a typical BB86 / BB92 bottom bracket.

It fits into a 41mm diameter bottom bracket shell and has aluminum bearing cups (with a choice of ceramic bearings for greater efficiency).

Shell widths range from maximum 92 mm on down.

Or, more accurately, this bottom bracket design will adjust to fit a BB shell inside that limit.

The sleeve’s rubber O-ring seals against the entire length of the non-drive side bearing cup’s inner diameter. The sleeve slides along the bearing cup as you press the cup in with the seal in place at that position.

This variant has the same options. The difference is the bearing cups/adapters are nylon.

A self-installing, self-extracting model like this is the way to go should you be looking to avoid having to use a dedicated toolset.

A Shimano 16T wrench is all you need.

Mount both sides into the bottom bracket shell. Then turn the drive side with the tool. The internal threads draw each side into the BB shell.

Extract it by turning the drive side BB cup counter clockwise.

We demonstrated the mechanism and technique in relation to the GP30, FIRST’s self-installing, self-extracting PF30 bottom bracket .

Before we get to the subject of installing and removing a BB86/BB92 bottom bracket unit, let’s briefly cover several Frequently Asked Questions.

ARE BB92 and PF92 the SAME?

Yes. It’s a matter of manufacturers’ technical terminology vs the cycling public’s way of speaking.

“PF” 92 is perhaps more accurate since it references the intrinsic nature of the bottom bracket—that it presses into the frame.

A common way to also reference BB92 is “Shimano Press Fit”.

WHAT CRANKS FIT BB92?

If you are thinking of upgrading from your current mountain bike with its 73mm bottom bracket shell/external bearing setup, you’re in luck.

This is a good move, by the way. The idea behind the BB92 standard is creating a beefier frame around a 24mm standard drive train.

• upgrade to a superior rig and
• reuse your existing crank and chainrings into the bargain.

WILL BB30 FIT BB92?

Two different things entirely—apples to oranges if you like.

BB30 refers to the spindle diameter, specifically:

• 42mm BB shell diameter
• bearing with a 30mm internal diameter
• 30mm diameter spindle on the crank

BB92 refers to the bottom bracket shell width, specifically:

• 41mm BB shell diameter
• bearing with a 24mm internal diameter
• 24mm diameter spindle on the crank

BB92 REMOVAL (& INSTALLATION) TOOL

Removing or installing a BB86 or BB92 bottom bracket is a breeze if you’ve got the right tools.

In this section I cover both installation and removal on a mountain bike.

Do I Need an Impact Tool?

A very important point: avoid employing an impact tool  to remove a press-fit bottom bracket

This is the “business end” of the tool.

You run the shaft, blunt end first, through the bottom bracket.

The flanges on the other end compress into the bottom bracket then “pop” open as they expand, having moved past the bearing cup.

You grab a hammer and bang away on the blunt end. The flanges brace against the bearing cup enabling you to “tap” it out.

The longer the bottom bracket has been in place, the harder the removal . Ok, not necessarily. But as a rule of thumb, that’s the way it usually goes.

“Tapping”, then, won’t be sufficient. You’ll have to let loose with several solid thumps.

Even if you are able to simply tap the BB free, there’s certainly going to be damage to the bottom bracket bearing cup.

In this day and age we don’t have to resort to this type of blunt-force trauma to maintain or upgrade our bikes .

Precisely machined tools, comprised of CNC-honed components, enable quick and gentle bottom bracket removal including BB92 along with all other types of press fit bottom bracket.

The video demonstrates in fine detail how to carry out installation or removal quickly and easily. For a summary keep on skimming down the page, or check out the video for detailed coverage of the procedure .

First up, a simple grease preparation procedure is important.

Applying a light smear of grease to both the bottom bracket bearing cups and the bottom bracket shell is advised.

Installation and, maybe more importantly, removal becomes easier.

Additionally, any minute movement (which will depend on the manufacturing precision of the frame maker’s BB shell) may generate a press-fit creak, not an uncommon complaint for this type of bottom bracket.

There is is no particular method of application. I would make the point though, that if you mess around with bikes a lot, you will be in frequent contact with a variety of chemicals in the oil, grease, and de-greasers you use over the years.

Over the long term your skin will continually absorb tiny amounts. Over the long term that adds up.

In the interests of reducing the odds of damage to your health somewhere down the track, keeping a barrier between your skin and these chemicals is beneficial.

Smearing grease on with a fine brush – a toothbrush will do the job – or fingers (nitrile gloves are recommended) is enough.

All you need is a light smear across the 10mm where the bearing cup sits inside the BB shell.

This tool is housed in a robust plastic shell with hard and durable – and flexible – closing clasps.

The retaining cup is used for both installing and removing a BB92 bottom bracket.

Its thread takes the bolt used to press-in a bottom bracket and also serves as the capturing vessel when you remove a bottom bracket.

This piece presses against, as well as inserting into, the bearing cup.

The 22mm surface faces out. The other side’s 24mm surface inserts directly into the bottom bracket—24mm is the spindle diameter of course.

The 16cm bolt inserts through the piece and into the retaining cup. This piece presses the bottom bracket into position.

The retaining cup helps to keep it square so the bearing cups are pressed into position on the correct plane.

The piece also aligns perfectly with the bottom bracket’s outer diameter. Once the pressure is applied, this disc guides the BB squarely into position.

There will sometimes be a tiny bit of sideways BB drift as soon as you begin turning the bolt. But the tool’s design straightens the bearing cup.

Screwing the retaining cup into its direct connection with the BB shell ensures this 3-piece ensemble (press-fit piece, bolt, & retaining cup) is perfectly square to the BB shell.

Getting the bolt finger-tight is enough. Provided the retaining cup is snug against the BB shell on the opposite side, you are good to go.

A few turns of the supplied 8mm allen wrench quickly moves the bearing cup into position.

When you’ve got to this point, the drive side installation is complete.

Fractionally turn the the bolt in the opposite direction to loosen the assemblage. Then simply unscrew the retaining cup from the bolt.

Mount the non-drive side BB92 bottom bracket cup onto the press piece and bolt.

The procedure is exactly the same installing the non-drive side.

Installation is complete ready for crank installation.

Removing BB86-BB92  

We need a few more components to assist in removal.

Installing is simpler as we apply the force required to press-in a BB92 (again, any press-fit bracket for that matter) from outside.

With removal, the force comes from inside . The trick is to install the components allowing this to happen.

We take away the press-piece (bracket used to press the BB into position). They include the

• retaining cup ring
• the split steel-hitch

The split steel-hitch is a bracket comprised of two equal pieces kept together by an elastic rubber grommet.

This component enables the gentle transfer of force from the driver to the bottom bracket without stressing or damaging it.

The split steel-hitch sits on the driver like so, expanding over the end. Under tension, the rubber grommet keeps it firmly in place.

The driver and the split steel-hitch, as a unit, press the BB92 bearing cup out of the BB shell.

The driver’s diameter is 24mm. The fit is snug as you slide it through, although not quite as close as a crank spindle. There is no need to apply grease as it easily slides through.

• The technique is turn the split steel-hitch slightly sideways.
• Slide the driver back into the BB shell.
• Slide the steel-hitch inside the bearing cup then push it over the end of the driver.
• The rubber grommet expands allowing the steel-hitch to grip the driver.
• Slide it back into position then move the driver forward so that the split steel-hitch’s edge contacts the bearing cup’s inside edge.

Here we see the split steel-hitch fully expanded around the driver, fitting firmly and precisely inside the bearing cup’s 24mm bottom bracket.

You use the retaining cup, again, not just as the “nut” to the bolt, but also as a receptacle that holds the bearing cup once it is pressed out of the bottom bracket shell.

The retaining cup won’t connect neatly with the bottom bracket shell. Hence the ring.

The ring is machined to fit exactly to the bottom bracket shell on one side, and the retaining cup on the other.

Slide the bolt through the driver from the opposite side and screw it into the retaining cup until the cup becomes firm against the ring.

The bolt is through as far as it can go without putting pressure on the bearing cup.

The driver side is ready for the 8mm allen wrench.

As you turn the bolt, the driver moves into the bottom bracket shell.

5 or 6 turns pushes the bearing cup (on the opposite side) out. It “gives” at the point where the bearing cup exits the BB shell completely.

The removed bearing cup sits in the retaining cup but also remains positioned on the driver.

You remove the whole lot in one clean movement.

Retrieve the bottom bracket from the retaining cup.

Remove the split steel-hitch from the driver.

You are ready to remove the drive side.

The difference this time around is that with one BB86-BB92 bearing cup removed, the driver no longer has support of the (now removed) bearing cup.

Despite appearances, that won’t be a problem.

Once the bolt engages the retaining cup “nut”, the driver squares up.

Turn the bolt as with the previous bearing cup removal. The right side bearing comes out just as quickly and easily.

WRAPPING UP Upgrading, maintaining or replacing a BB92, BB86, or BB30 bottom bracket is quick and easy with this toolset.

Yes. An aspect I did not mention is that this works with a BB30 system as well .

Here’s a question:

• Is your press-fit bottom bracket system the bee’s knees?
• Or would you go back to a threaded bottom bracket in a heartbeat?

Like this post? Please share!

2 thoughts on “BB92 (&86) – Complete Guide to Installation and Removal”

This is literally one of the best press fit bb instructions i have seen on the internet. Thanks!

I’m new to the ‘press fit’ bottom bracket technology, due to having a threaded system on my relatively old frame (2011). However, I’ve just inherited a carbon frame with a press fit system. I had difficulty just removing the crankset; it needed a fair whack. I’ve never been a fan of press fit parts. So yes, I would elect for threaded in a heartbeat. It seems so much simpler to me.

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Early in 2015 the Drzewiecki Design studio released X-Plane's first Russian scenery in UUEE Sheremetyevo Airport XP. Personally I was very excited, in that of what X-Plane can do in allowing you to explore new frontiers, new countries, new areas. So a trip to Russia was going into another brand new frontier with finally with a quality payware scenery as a destination.

If any scenery shows the explosion of detail in X-Plane over the last five years it is UUEE - Sheremetyevo. That first review visit was really to an isolated scenery in a barren wilderness in more like Siberia than Moscow... read the full original review here to see huge differences between the original and current visual detail of UUEE Sheremetyevo Airport.

Airport Review : UUEE Sheremetyevo Airport XP by Drzewiecki Design

But remember that at the time it was pretty good...

UUEE Sheremetyevo Airport XP v2 So here is the upgrade (finally) to that release in the v2 X-Plane11 version of Sheremetyevo. The previous proclamation is in relation to the changes around this original scenery. Drzewiecki Design has been on a sort of mission statement to recreate Moscow in it's entirety. Their release of Moscow XP did a huge service in recreating a city out of nothing...   Scenery Review : Moscow City XP by Drzewiecki Design and another brilliant addition was JustSim's excellent UUWW - Moscow Vnukovo v1.2 which was constructed to fit within the same framework as DD's Moscow XP scenery, the funny thing was the only airport scenery that was now the odd one out was actually the older UUEE Sheremetyevo?

The approach now to Sheremetyevo makes you shake your head, "oh wow" as this is so, so different from the original...

If you have the Moscow XP scenery (highly recommended here) then the installer will fit in the new UUEE to merge perfectly with the city scenery... if you don't have it there is an option to blend into the standard default textures, but why not have the full Russian monty, it is excellent, but there is also a lot of objects now running in your system, so you will need at least a 8K graphic card to run the full Moscow layout.

Drzewiecki Design uses a .exe installer to install your Sheremetyevo, for Mac/Linux there is a manual .zip option, but the manual version is complicated in that you have to place certain files for certain options in there manually. And there are a lot of options...   there are three options on the style of the "Borders" or the way you want the scenery to fit into your current layout (i.e. with Moscow XP or not), second set of options that cover Static aircraft and Ground Photoreal textures, there is another option to use the volmetric 3d grass (recommended) and if you want the manual to appear when the install is done. All options with the installer can be changed by just running the installer again and selecting your new options, it works very well in changing around options quickly...

.... the installer will also check if you have the SAM (Scenery Animation Manager) installed, which is required by the scenery, it did pick up I was a version out of date (I was away traveling) so I was impressed by that. Finally it will install the scenery into your custom scenery folder (on the fly as noted it asked me if I wanted it to install the correct textures for use with Moscow XP, again impressive). So you can see how hard it would be to set up manually, however there is full instructions in the manual for Mac/Linux users (note I am using the static off (WT3) and photoreal/grass on).

First new view of UUEE - Sheremetyevo shows a major airport change in a new runway 06L - 24R (there are a set of charts provided with the scenery)

06L -24R is set a fair way from the terminal zones, I mean really far away from the southern Terminal D, E & F complexes to the south so expect a long taxi...

...    detail along side including a runway tower complex is excellent, in fact all detail around the airport is now highly elevated by a lot of local objects.

Visually the surrounding areas around the airport are very realistic, note the Moscow City well into the background as the objects coverage over the whole area to the Moscow city centre, so the question has to asked is that if you have the full set of Moscow XP, UUWW Vnukovo and this scenery is then the question is of do you have the most detailed complete city layout in X-Plane? I personally now think so.

It is really very hard to imagine the basis of this version is still many the older objects, and yet that is the case but most have had attention, as this is now a far more comprehensive and dynamic scenery than before...

...  to highlight this aspect are the new PBR (Physical Based Render) reflective runways, and in the right light they are excellent, add less light and wet conditions and they go mindblowing.

South Sheremetyevo

The original iconic Sheremetyevo-2 Terminal now Terminal F looks now even better with PBR and reflective glass, although I see a few areas of marching ants on the windows in some lighting conditions.

The adjoining Terminal E has also had the reflective glass treatment, but also internal detail added, as usual it is quite basic, but it all looks good of where it counts in the external view. The internal detail is also on the futuristic Terminal D, this futuristic terminal looks so much better here, it was certainly well modeled originally, but the average surroundings didn't give it the attention it deserved.

Like the new runway, new infrastructure landside has also been included, including new hotels and administration buildings, so the scenery is now completely up to date in it's current form. The Park inn hotel has been remodeled, and is far better and not as gaudy as before and the Holiday Inn Express is all new and both are excellent.

A big feature now included is the SAM (Scenery Animation Manager) plugin for VGDS gate docking and remote parking and every airbridge is now active, that is EVERY airbridge at SVO.

Approaching Terminal F is now a real occasion if an historic one as this terminal is steeped in history, to dock at the red airbridge just completes the Russian arrival.

North Sheremetyevo

If any area of Sheremetyevo that has had the most changes it is on the older north side.

Gone is the old iconic "Sheremetyevo-1" or the original first terminal built at Sheremetyevo in 1964 with it's unusual spaceship-like design, and it has been replaced with two new terminals in B and C. They have sort of done a modern glassed in replica design of the older terminal as part of terminal B, but in reality it is not the same as the iconic design.

The advantages however are that you get a lot more active gates to choose from and as you can't stop progress and passenger demand. It keeps Sheremetyevo as an active modern airport as well, and not sinking away into a relic of the past. But the differences here in facilities compared to only five years ago is quite comprehensive.

Nightlighting

The lighting of UUEE has had a full overhaul and "thank god for that".

Most of the original terminal night textures were just simply really "plain awful" and to the point I hit the Photoshop app to make them at least more realistic, mostly all the glaringly bad textures have banished to be replaced with the see-through glass lighting, but there are a few areas they still brightly protrude from.

The worst offenders were the Terminal's D and E and thankfully both have had serious attention, D is nice now, and E is lovely on the landside arrival side. The hotels at night look excellent as well and very realistic...

Terminal F night texures are the same, but the new ramp lighting sorts of dilutes the age. But a bit more attention to detail here to make it blend in better would have helped.

As 80% of the north Sheremetyevo is new then so is the lighting...

It looks great and very modern, and the ramps are well lit. The highlight is the control tower lighting which is very effective by the side of the older tower building. Control Tower view however is not set, but ground focused...  overall the lighting here at SVO is very good.

WT 3 : Any old ground routes don't work with the new runway layout, so they have to thrown away. The new generation is not bad and works but needs refinements in a few areas to make it perfect, but overall WT2 works very well and some approach views are excellent.

A note that the older waypoint issues have thankfully gone as well, having current or newer Navigraph data will fix all the old misalignment issues.

The first really good payware scenery for Moscow has had a complete refurbish. Originally the scenery was a speck in an area of X-Plane blandness, but not anymore. Now you have the extensive Moscow XP and JustSim's UUWW - Moscow Vnukovo to compliment this highly updated UUEE - Sheremetyevo and what a grand plan it all is now.

There has been a lot of changes at Sheremetyevo in the last few years, with a new runway 06L -24R  and most of north Sheremetyevo being totally rebuilt with two new terminals, and all the changes and a lot more of the new infrastructure is all in this scenery, so UUEE is totally up to date with the current conditions with this upgraded scenery. SAM animated airbridge plugin and dynamic PBR textures with 3d volumetric grass gives the scenery a huge dynamic lift as well as has most of the lighting also being thankfully redone. Full ground vehicle and radar animations are well done as well so this is now the full complete and highly optioned package of SVO.

Moscow as a destination city is one of the best served in X-Plane if you are willing to invest in all of the three principal sceneries of Drzewiecki Design's Moscow XP, JustSim's Moscow Vnukovo and now this totally updated Drzewiecki Design UUEE - Sheremetyevo, and the totally outstanding vista is married by some of the most sensational airport scenery with this Sheremetyevo now also a highly developed and usable scenery...  Only earlier that Sheremetyevo suddenly felt very dated, but now fits in beautifully with the the whole context of the scenery, yes you will need a bit of computer power to run the extreme amount of objects created here so a 8K Graphic Card is a must, other wise it is perfection...  a must have (all of it).

______________________________________________________________________

Yes! UUEE Sheremetyevo Airport XP v2 by Drzewiecki Design is now Available from the X-Plane.Org Store here :

UUEE Sheremetyevo Airport XP v2

Price is US $26.00

Owners of UUEE v1 by Drzewiecki can get 25% off this new v2 version: Coupon code can be found in your UUEE invoice at the X-Plane.OrgStore

• High quality model of UUEE Sheremetyevo airport in Moscow, featuring the most up-to-date version possible including airport parts that are still under construction
• Extensive though performance-friendly interior modeling at most terminal buildings, control tower and some hangars
• Animated jetways, VGDS, marshallers (SAM plugin), custom animations, advanced dynamic lighting, static aircraft and people
• Highly advanced performance-friendly design, numerous optimization techniques used
• Fully compatible with Moscow City Scenery

Installation

Download is 980mb and the scenery package is installed via a .exe installer or a download .zip and deposited into your X-Plane Custom Scenery folder:

• DD UUEE Moscow Sheremetyevo XP V2 Documents
• DD UUEE Moscow Sheremetyevo XP V2
• DD UUEE Moscow Sheremetyevo XP V2 INSTALLER
• DD z Moscow City XP

The "INSTALLER" provides the different options for static aircraft, photoreal textures and volmetric grass

Note: if installed the previous version UUEE v1 it is to be removed

Total scenery installation is 2.81Gb (not including the Moscow City XP option)

Requirements :

• Mac and Linux manual install - English.pdf
• Mac and Linux manual install - Russian.pdf
• Mac and Linux manual install - Polish.pdf
• UUEE_SHEREMETYEVO_XP_V2_MANUAL.pdf
• UUEE_CHARTS.pdf

Scenery Upgrade Review by Stephen Dutton

18th December 2019

Copyright©2019: X-Plane Reviews

Review System Specifications:

Computer System : Windows  - Intel Core i7 6700K CPU 4.00GHz / 64bit - 16 Gb single 1067 Mhz DDR4 2133 - GeForce GTX 980/SSE2 - Samsung Evo 1Tb SSD 

Software :   - Windows 10 - X-Plane 10 Global ver 11.41r1

Addons : Saitek x52 Pro system Joystick and Throttle : Sound - Bose  Soundlink Mini : Headshake by SimCoders

Plugins:   WorldTraffic3 US$29.95 (recommended) : Environment Engine v1.13 by xEnviro US$69.90 : 

- Airbus A319 by Toliss ( X-Plane.OrgStore ) - US$69.00

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