View of Beirut and it has been taken from Harissa at sunset.

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This diminutive Mediterranean nation is a fascinating nexus point of the Middle East and the West; of Christianity and Islam; of tradition and modernity. It’s a place where culture, family and religion are all-important, but where sectarian violence can too often erupt – claiming lives and scarring both the landscape and the national psyche.

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

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Temple of Bacchus

Baalbek's Temple of Bacchus is often described as the most beautifully decorated temple in the Roman world, and it's certainly one of the best preserved…

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Baalbek Ruins

Dominating the centre of modern Baalbek, this wonderful Roman temple complex is one of the Middle East's major archaeological highlights. The monumental…

The Beirut National Museum, Lebanon.

National Museum of Beirut

Located on the former Green Line, this is Beirut's major cultural institution. Its impressive, magnificently displayed collection of archaeological…

Cedars growing at 6,000 feet in the Shouf Biosphere Reserve in Lebanon.

Shouf Biosphere Reserve

The largest of Lebanon’s three natural protectorates, comprising an incredible 5% of the total land area, this is the largest natural cedar reserve in the…

Al Bass archaeological site in Tyre, Lebanon.

Al Bass Archaeological Site

This sprawling site lies 2km east of the centre, entered off the highway. Just past the entrance is a vast funerary complex, with hundreds of ornate…

Celestine, Beirut Mineral Museum exhibit, Lebanon.

Under the St Joseph university, this atmospheric and beautifully designed museum presents an extraordinary collection of exquisitely selected and…

The main square in Deir Al-Qamar, Lebanon.

Main Square

The main square is a showcase of fine Arab architecture, including the Mosque of Emir Fakhreddine Maan, built in 1493, and, behind it, a cobbler's souq…

Al-mina port in Tripoli.

An enticing blend of tradition and modernity, the web of narrow streets of Tripoli's port quarter makes for wonderful strolling. The Phoenician city stood…

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Feb 7, 2020 • 1 min read

Photographer James Kerwin has shared an amazing photo project based on the architecture of Lebanon.

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Everything You Need to Know Before Traveling in Lebanon

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Rachel Off Duty: Everything You Need to Know Before Traveling to Lebanon

I was hosted by TourLeb while visiting Lebanon. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

Want to experience Lebanon firsthand? Come with me on a GROUP TRIP to Lebanon this Summer (Aug 19 – 27, 2023). Space is limited. Reserve your spot with a deposit by clicking this link .

“Have you been to crazy countries before, or is this your first time?” 

My guide, Nada, asked me moments after I slid into her car at the busy Beirut-Rafic Hariri International Airport, weary after the 20-hour journey from Los Angeles to Beirut.

“Yes?” I replied, after making eye contact with my boyfriend Jacob sitting next to me in the back seat. My family is from the Philippines and Jacob’s is from Mexico , after all. Despite it being our first time in the Middle East, we didn’t feel out of place in a country worlds apart from our own, both geographically, culturally, and socio-politically. In fact, my heart was racing for a different reason. I was thrilled to finally set foot in a place I’d dreamt of visiting since I was 13.

“Good,” she chuckled, and with that we whizzed off to Beirut. Welcome to Lebanon! 

Despite being one of the smallest countries in the world, Lebanon is fascinatingly, multi-dimensionally rich. Within just 4,036 square miles, Lebanon encompasses six million people, 18 religions, multiple languages and dialects, diverse geography, and more than 6,000 years of history that has carved the country into what it is today. 

While traveling in Lebanon is relatively safe, there are lots of things you should know before you visit this country. Familiarizing yourself with Lebanon’s culture, religions, safety, politics, and economic situation will help you orient yourself more quickly.

Once you do, you’ll be able to better appreciate the spirit of Lebanese people, their joy, their food, and their joie de vivre.

So, let’s get into it. Here are 14 things you should know before traveling to Lebanon!

14 Things You Must Know Before Visiting Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: The Skyline of Jounieh, Lebanon

1. Guide vs Solo: Should You Visit Lebanon On Your Own?

First, do you need a guide when traveling to Lebanon? As a frequent solo traveler and avid trip planner, I am used to being fiercely independent when I travel abroad. So, I tend to only seek out local guides for individual activities, like walking tours and cooking classes. 

But, after spending 10 days traveling in Lebanon, I can say with certainty that I wouldn’t have been able to do or see even half of the things I got to experience without having a local guide.

Lebanon is a chaotically beautiful country and many things work differently than you might be used to.

Some examples of this include:

  • Street signs often only shown in Arabic or French 
  • Local guesthouses often not searchable on platforms like Booking.com and Airbnb
  • Guesthouse staff, on occasion, not speaking English 
  • Navigating different cultural intricacies, from visiting mosques to traveling to more conservative parts of the country – like Tripoli and Saida 
  • Money being more difficult to understand in general (more on this later)
  • More sensitive areas, like the Beqaa Valley near the Syrian border, having heightened precautions in order to visit safely

And so on. 

Rachel Off Duty: A Ka'ak Vendor in Tripoli, Lebanon

Visiting Lebanon With TourLeb

I visited Lebanon on a private, almost fully-guided itinerary with TourLeb , a women-owned tour company-meets-social enterprise that prioritizes responsible tourism and uplifting local businesses.

The TourLeb staff are unmatched in their knowledge of Lebanon, and I often joked throughout my trip that Nada has the entire country’s six million people on speed dial. In fact, she and her co-founder Joelle started TourLeb after traveling around Lebanon to interview 6,000 people across 1,000 villages to publish a book, Hyphen Islam Christianity , about the people and stories that interweave together to create the oft-hyphenated identities of Lebanon.

So, yes, they’re extremely well connected!

Rachel Off Duty: Exploring Tripoli with Guides from TourLeb in Lebanon

TourLeb offers a couple different options to help travelers visit Lebanon: 

  • Fully Bespoke Private Tours: Ranging from $900-$1500 per week for a couple (or $250 per day for parties of up to 4). This is what I did when I visited Lebanon!
  • Itinerary Planning: $30/day to give you a blueprint for your own self-guided Lebanon holiday.
  • Day Trips: Whether you want a private day trip (like, to visit the Beqaa Valley or Tripoli) or are interested in joining one of TourLeb’s weekly day trips that explore off-the-beaten-path Lebanese villages, they often provide excursions that can help you see more of the country even if you’re on a budget.

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Want to Visit Lebanon with Me?

I’m hosting a group trip to Lebanon this summer! From August 19 – 27, 2023, we’ll walk the footsteps of ancient Romans, cheers to delicious mediterranean wines, dance the night away in Beirut, experience unmatched Lebanese hospitality, uncover palaces and hammams, soak up the sun at the beach, and eat like you’ve never eaten before.

See the full itinerary here or click the button below to reserve your spot! (LIMITED SPOTS AVAILABLE)

While I recommend having a local guide for your Lebanon trip, you might prefer flying solo. If you do, I still recommend hiring a driver – at least for your first visit – because navigating the roads, army checkpoints, and any unexpected situations in this country would be very tricky without one! 

RELATED: Top Woman-Owned Travel Companies That Should Be on Your Radar

2. How to Get to Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: Downtown Beirut Buildings

Getting to Lebanon is actually easier than you might think!

While there are currently no direct flights from the USA to Lebanon, you can often find routes that only require one layover. Airlines like Emirates, Turkish Airlines, Qatar Airways, and Air France have regular Beirut routes with layovers in Dubai, Istanbul, Doha, or Paris. Compare airlines and prices on Google Flights or Kayak to see which route is best for you. 

When you arrive in Lebanon, you’ll be landing in Beirut. You’ll fill out a brief immigration document and go through customs upon arrival. Unlike the bad rap US customs officials get, customs officials in Lebanon are actually so kind and welcoming to tourists!

The only thing you need to remember? You cannot have any Israeli passport stamps or security stickers in your passport . If you do, you’ll be denied entry to Lebanon.

3. Lebanon’s History

Rachel Off Duty: The Ancient Baalbek Ruins in the Beqaa Valley, Lebanon

From the ancient Phoeniciean and Assyrian eras, to Roman and Byzantine regimes, to Crusaders, Mamluks, and eventually, Ottoman Rule, this ancient land had been molded and shaped by countless layers of influence and culture. 

When 300 years of Ottoman rule dissolved after WWI, Lebanon finally became the country we know today. But, its complex history only gets even more nuanced in the last 100 years. Starting with the French Mandate (which is why you’ll hear French as commonly as you will Arabic) in the early 1900s, to the war in the 70s, to the economic and electricity crises of today, to the Beirut Blast of 2020, Lebanon has been dealt a series of hurdles – emerging from each even more resilient than the last. 

Rachel Off Duty: The Ancient Fish Fossils of Byblos

Spend some time exploring this country and you’ll begin to see these layers reveal themselves.

You’ll see it in the ruins that rival those of Athens, the French and Arabic dialects that echo across the souks, the ancient fish fossils of Byblos, the neighboring churches and mosques, and the chic cafes that are serenaded by daily calls to prayer.

4. Safety in Lebanon: Is Lebanon Safe to Visit?

Rachel Off Duty: A Woman Admires the Baalbek Ruins While Traveling in Lebanon

You might be asking yourself – is Lebanon safe? And with everything going on, is it safe to travel to Lebanon now ? 

General Lebanon Safety Overview

In general, traveling to Lebanon is quite safe for tourists. Much safer than the news and our government-issued travel advisories would have us believe. I want to stress this, because the country is desperately in need of tourism and many Lebanese people are quite eager to shed the negative perceptions of their country that the media have long associated with Lebanon.

In fact, I was often met with a combination of surprise (that an American would be visiting their village, restaurant, or hotel!) and delight that resulted in some of the most unbelievable hospitality I’ve ever experienced. 

Geographic / Political Situations Surrounding Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: The Cedar Trees in Lebanon

Now, with that said, Lebanon still presents safety issues you should be aware of.

You shouldn’t visit refugee camps or the borders between Lebanon and Syria, particularly without a guide. The southern region of Lebanon is also the main location of Hezbollah’s conflict with Israel as well, and you’ll begin to see a UN presence once you reach the southern seaside town of Tyre for that very reason.

However, I traveled to both Tyre and the Beqaa Valley near the Syrian border, and in both cases I felt safe and had absolutely no issues. I was super happy to have my TourLeb hosts explaining the history, sociopolitical tensions, and safety protocols every step of the way so I knew what to expect at all times.

In fact, one of my favorite meals was in Rayak, just minutes from the Syrian border crossing to Damascus. 

On the day we traveled to the Beqaa Valley, there was one moment I was particularly grateful to have a local guide. We were visiting the Baalbek ruins, and saw a wedding near the entrance to the site. Our guide told us to anticipate gun shots, as shooting up into the sky is a common way of ‘celebrating’ the new couple’s union. Within moments, we heard gun shots off in the distance. Had we not been briefed on this cultural practice, we would’ve been so spooked!

Economic Situation in Lebanon

Lebanon is undergoing an ongoing economic, fuel, and electricity crisis. While crime rates are actually fairly low in the country, desperate times can mean some desperate situations, and petty theft isn’t unheard of as local people navigate unprecedented economic hardships. Keep close watch of your belongings but also, use this as an opportunity to patronize local businesses and support the local economy with your tourism dollars. 

Safety for Women and Solo Female Travelers in Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: A Woman Stands in Front of a Blue Door in The Chouf, Lebanon

Economic and political landscapes aside, I can’t tell you how many times I was told that Lebanon is one of the safest places for woman to travel solo in the Middle East. Likening this to Lebanon’s Arab and Muslim influence (combined with the fact that English and French are widely spoken, making it easier for solo travelers that don’t speak Arabic to get around), people strive to treat solo female travelers the way they’d treat their own sisters, and want to make extra sure these travelers feel safe and welcome when moving throughout the country. This is especially true in the areas more commonly frequented by travelers, like Beirut, Byblos, Batroun, Jounieh, and Tyre. 

Above all else, you can read as much as you want about safety while traveling in Lebanon ahead of time. But, one of the best things you can do is check in with locals throughout your trip. They’ll often have the latest advice on what’s safe, what isn’t, and what precautions you might want to take.

5. Languages Spoken in Lebanon

The national language of Lebanon is Arabic. However, as I just mentioned, French is also super prevalent due to the country’s French Mandate era of the early 1900s. Today, just under half of the Lebanese population is French-speaking, and another 15% are partially French-speaking, as most schools still teach using French as a second language.

Because of the coexistence of French and Arabic, Lebanese people have derived some unique expressions that blur the lines between the two languages. One example of this is saying “merci kteer” instead of “merci beaucoup” to express “thank you very much.” “Merci” is French for “thank you,” while “kteer” is Arabic for “many.” 

Beyond that, English is commonly spoken by around 30% of the population, especially those in the tourism and business industries. Younger generations also lean heavily towards English in day to day conversation.

6. Religions in Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: Woman Looking at the Mohammad Al Amin Mosque in Beirut

It is often said that without Lebanon’s enduring political and economic issues, the country could be a model for how the rest of the world can coexist. As a small country with more than 18 religious communities, Lebanon is a multi-faith society where mosques and churches coexist and bell towers and calls to prayer are equally common sounds of daily life. 

Approximately 60% of the Lebanese population is Muslim (including Shiite, Sunni, Druze, Ismaili, and Alawi), and 40% is Christian (including Catholic communities like Maronites, Armenian Catholics, Greek Catholics; and non-Catholic communities like Greek Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, Protestants, etc). 

Rachel Off Duty: Visiting the Al Amin Mosque in Beirut, Lebanon

Lebanon is not without its own religious tensions and disagreements. But, as a country that recognizes and respects several religious communities, it is a remarkable thing to witness as a visitor! Here, you can visit mosques and churches in pretty much any city, hike through the Christian monasteries of the Kadisha Valley, and witness the Druze community’s Jumblatt Palace in the Chouf. All of it makes up equal importance in the fabric of what makes Lebanon, Lebanon. 

7. Currency and Exchanging Money in Lebanon

Due to decades of debt, Lebanon is experiencing a financial crisis that can be felt in all aspects of daily life. It’s so bad that Lebanese people are largely unable to withdraw money from their bank accounts, and many salaries that were once livable are now worth mere fractions of what they once were. 

Lebanon uses the Lebanese Pound or Lira, and you’ll see online that $1 USD = approximately 1,513 Lebanese Pounds. But (and it’s a BIG but!), Lebanon widely operates on a black market exchange . On the black market, $1 USD = anywhere from 24,000 – 35,000 Lebanese Pounds at the time of writing this article. 

Because of this, you’ll want to bring your own local currency to Lebanon and exchange currency there, versus trying to find Lebanese currency abroad (most likely, you will not be able to anyway). Once in Lebanon, exchange your money at a reliable place using the ‘black market’ exchange rate, which fluctuates hourly. This way, you’ll get a fair exchange against the actual market value of everyday life in Lebanon. 

I found that navigating the money exchange in Lebanon was one of the most confusing parts of visiting the country. Fortunately, my guide helped with this throughout my 10 days in Lebanon.

8. Lebanon Geography and Places to Visit

Rachel Off Duty: Woman Admiring the Cedars of the Gods in Lebanon at Sunset

When we think of the Mediterranean, most people may first think of Greece, Italy, or Croatia. But Lebanon is a Mediterranean gem in its own right, with beautiful coastlines and many stretches of crystal clear, aquamarine waters. 

Rachel Off Duty: The Geography of Lebanon

Bordering Lebanon are Israel to the south, and Syria to the north and east. No doubt, this is a region all too familiar with conflict and tension. However, in my experience – going with a guide allowed us to travel all over Lebanon while remaining both informed and safe. There are military checkpoints throughout the country monitoring the roads. At one point after visiting Baalbek in the far east, we found ourselves wine tasting on a vineyard just a stone’s throw from the Syrian border. Again, with our guides monitoring the daily conditions of the region, we felt incredibly safe and welcomed by the people in the Beqaa Valley!

Though Lebanon is a tiny country, it will surprise you – from Mediterranean coastlines, to mountain regions fit for skiing in the winter, to verdant green valleys and relaxing wine regions, Lebanon’s geographic diversity is truly unbelievable. 

Some of the Top Places to Visit in Lebanon Include:

  • Beirut : The Paris of the Middle East and the capital city of Lebanon, Beirut should be on any first-timer’s list when traveling to Lebanon. Come here historical city center and neighborhoods, stay for the incredible food and nightlife!
  • Byblos : Also known as Jbeil or Jebeil, the seaside village of Byblos is a remarkable symbol of civilization. Byblos has been continuously inhabited throughout the past 8,000 years, and today, the historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • Jounieh : A once sleepy fishing village that now hosts a long list of attractions, Jounieh is just 30 minutes outside of Beirut and well worth a visit. Take the Teleferique cable car, visit the Casino du Liban, explore the famous Jeita Grotto, or go paragliding over the Mediterranean coast. The views are unbelievable!
  • Tripoli : You shouldn’t miss the dizzying, magnificent city of Tripoli in northern Lebanon. Here, you’ll find the largest crusader fortress in Lebanon, a labyrinthine network of souks, and the chilled out fisherman’s village of El Mina which is not to be missed.
  • Baalbek : The ruins of Baalbek are so impressive, they are absolutely worth the trek. Here, you can find some of the finest remaining structures of the Roman Empire, like the Temple of Bacchus.
  • Saida and Tyre : You can visit the southern seaside towns of Saida and Tyre on a single day trip. Visit the Crusader Sea Castle and the old souks in Saida, and the Hippodrome and Al Mina ruins in Tyre, before ending the day on the Tyre Port and Christian Quarter.
  • Chouf : Chouf (also referred to as ‘The Chouf’) is a beautiful region filled with palaces, mountainside villages, a cedar tree reserve, and a large population of Lebanese Druze. Don’t miss the Jumblatt or the Beiteddine Palaces.
  • Kadisha Valley : The famous Holy Valley is located high up in the Mount Lebanon chain, and has been home to countless monastic communities for centuries. The drive through the Kadisha Valley is one of the most stunning in all of Lebanon, featuring rugged landscapes dotted with churches and monasteries throughout. You can visit them by car or even hike between the monasteries on foot.

Read my list of all the places you should visit when traveling to Lebanon next!

9. Culture and Etiquette in Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: Exploring the Old Hammams in Lebanon

Lebanon is home to a myriad of cultures and customs, and while there is no sole “fixed” way of doing things, I found the country to be incredibly welcoming and inviting for foreign travelers.

I observed Lebanese teens in Beirut dressed in shorts and sneakers hanging out with friends at local bars, streets filled with locals smoking shisha and playing cards until late in the evenings, veiled and unveiled women at restaurants sharing tea and gossip, you name it. 

With all that said, there are some things you should keep in mind when visiting Lebanon.

General Tips to Follow When Traveling to Lebanon:

  • You can dine with both hands – dining with the right hand only doesn’t really apply in Lebanon 
  • PDA isn’t extremely taboo, but outside of holding hands, tourists should probably do it sparingly (no need to attract unnecessary attention or judgment, especially from more conservative onlookers). And, unfortunately I’d say LGBTQ+ couples should exercise more caution here and adhere to a zero PDA policy when out and about. 
  • Punctuality isn’t really a thing in Lebanon – hours are more fluid and you shouldn’t judge your tours or reservations if they don’t start immediately on time. 
  • Lebanese hospitality is unparalleled. I can’t stress this enough! I’ve never had a better breakfast, better hosts, or better conversations than I did while on this trip. Be a gracious guest and try everything when offered homemade food, be prepared to stay long periods of time and engage in conversation, and bring gifts when appropriate. Hosting is seen as an honor and a privilege, and it isn’t uncommon for even those with the smallest homes to invite you in for a coffee as their guest. 
  • To most Lebanese, Israel is a huge point of contention. Regardless of your understanding of the situation, it’ll serve you well to simply respect the opinions of locals. And, if you’ve ever traveled to Israel in the past, make sure there is no evidence of that trip in your passport when entering the country. 
  • While daily life can be quite relaxed in Lebanon, you should never forget that the country is in the crossroads of conflict. Always remain alert and vigilant with your belongings and with the locations you travel to when traveling to Lebanon, and rely on the advice of locals at all times.

10. Weather in Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: A Woman Standing on the Old Salt Flats in Lebanon

Lebanon generally has a mild Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and rainy winters. The coastline will be hotter and more humid than inland and mountainous regions, which can even get enough snowfall in the colder months for skiing and snowboarding. 

If you’re wondering when is the best time to visit Lebanon based on the weather, March – May, and September – October are ideal. However, we came in early November and it was still so warm. We even took a dip in the Mediterranean! The only caveat is that in the winter months, the sun will set around 4:30 pm and your daylight hours will be shorter.

Depending on where you plan to go, I recommend packing a variety of clothing fit for both the coastal areas and mountain regions, with some extra layers for any chilly evenings.

11. What to Pack for and Wear in Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: What to Wear in Lebanon

Lebanon is a pretty liberal country. So, what you pack will be dictated by your activities and the places you want to visit, rather than based on any particular custom or requirement.

You’ll generally find very casual as well as stylishly dressed people in Beirut, and naturally, a bit more traditionally and modestly dressed people in less densely populated areas. No matter where you go, it won’t be uncommon to see women in modern sundresses and jeans alongside women in veils or burkas in the same setting. 

My Packing Tips for Lebanon:

  • Avoid dresses and skirts / shorts that are extra short, as well as plunging necklines or backless tops (to me, this was honestly less about feeling inappropriate, and more about making sure I was not making any local men or women feel uncomfortable) 
  • Pack swimsuits with a bit more coverage (bikinis are totally fine, but I personally didn’t bring any that were more skimpy) 
  • Stick to breathable fabrics – Lebanon can be hot especially along the coasts! 
  • Bring layers if you plan to visit Lebanon’s mountain regions, particularly in the winter months 
  • Bring a variety of scarves, as you’ll need to cover your hair and shoulders when visiting mosques out of respect. I tied one to my purse every day so I could throw it on when needed.
  • When visiting mosques, as well as more conservative cities like Tripoli and Saida, it’s best to wear pants or a skirt / dress that falls below the knees 
  • Take your shoes off when entering a mosque. If you don’t like the idea of being barefoot, wear socks. The floors will most likely be carpeted!
  • Men should avoid wearing shorts or tank tops in mosques, as your shoulders and legs need to be covered, too

12. Transportation and Getting Around when Traveling in Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: Traffic Jam in Tripoli

You could theoretically rent a car and drive while traveling in Lebanon, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Especially if it’s your first time traveling to the country. The roads are confusing, everyone drives with their own rules, and there are military checkpoints throughout the country that – while generally safe – can seem intimidating for foreigners. 

Careem, a transportation app similar to Uber and Lyft, is supposed to be available in Beirut and Jounieh. But, I didn’t get a chance to confirm this for myself while I was there. If you use this app (or any others) when visiting Lebanon, let me know in the comments!

All that said, if you can swing it, I highly recommend booking tours with transportation included, and / or hiring a private guide like we did with TourLeb. If we had driven ourselves, we probably would’ve done less than half of the things we had on our itinerary. The logistics would’ve been too much to navigate, and there are certain parts of the country – like Tripoli and Baalbek – where it really is best to visit with a local that knows their way around. 

13. Food, Alcohol, and Tipping in Lebanon

Rachel Off Duty: A Spread of Lebanese Meze for Lunch

Lebanese people are serious about their food – and it is my absolute favorite cuisine in the world for this very reason. 

Their Mediterranean climate combined with fresh Middle Eastern herbs and centuries-old traditions make even the simplest dining experiences a phenomenal occasion. You’ll want to try all of it, and you’ll want to do a good amount of walking during your visit to balance it all out 🙂

Some of my absolute favorite bites of food in Lebanon included: 

  • A simple, yet crisply fried falafel pita (which cost less than $1 USD) in Saida 
  • Handmade zaatar and cheese manakish (well, anything covered in zaatar, to be honest) 
  • Savory sesame-studded ka’ak filled with cheese and, you guessed it, zaatar
  • Sweet, indulgent knafeh covered in orange blossom syrup and stuffed into a pita, which coincidentally made for a fantastic hangover breakfast 
  • Mezze for every meal of the day 
  • Lahme baajin made on the side of the road in the Chouf 
  • Freshly prepared kibbeh at a cozy restaurant tucked into the mountains of Ehden

I could keep on going – the food is just that good.

Rachel Off Duty: Foods in Lebanon

Alcohol Etiquette in Lebanon: Do People in Lebanon Drink?

Lebanon is one of the most liberal countries in the Middle East, and you can easily – and abundantly – enjoy alcohol throughout most of the country. In fact, Lebanon proudly produces tons of local beer, wine, and even spirits.

The only restrictions on this will be in the more conservative parts of the country, like Tripoli and Saida, where alcohol will be sparse or nonexistent out of respect for larger concentrations of Muslim populations.

Outside of this, you will be able to easily find and enjoy a drink in Lebanon freely and without worry.

Rachel Off Duty: Drinking in Lebanon

Tipping in Lebanon: Is It Appropriate?

When it comes to tipping in Lebanon, it’s generally advisable to either round up or pay 10 – 15% at restaurants depending on the service you received.

You’ll also want to carry small bills for other tipping encounters, including supermarket trips (if they carry your groceries to your car), gas station stops (an attendant will fill your tank), and buying drinks at a bar.

14. Travel Insurance For Traveling to Lebanon: Do You Need It?

Rachel Off Duty: Trying on Traditional Clothing from Lebanon

Whether or not you need travel insurance is your own personal choice. But, keep in mind that without insurance, any incidents (stolen gear, hospitalization, etc) will need to be covered out of pocket while abroad.

Some reputable travel insurance companies with good reviews include:

  • World Nomads
  • Allianz Travel Insurance

It’s hard for me to put into words how much I loved my time traveling in Lebanon, so I’ll end by saying this: if you’re feeling adventurous and considering visiting Lebanon, you must do it. Lebanon has been without a doubt one of the most culturally enriching, delicious, eye-opening, educational, authentic, raw, and fun countries I’ve visited to date, and I can’t wait to go back!

P.S. Skipped to the end? Don’t fret! While you can travel to Lebanon on your own, some might feel more comfortable visiting with a local tour company. If that’s you, you might want to consider traveling to Lebanon with TourLeb. Mention ‘Rachel Off Duty’ when booking to get up to 15% off a private tour of 3 days or more. Contact them here .

Or, travel with me to Lebanon on a group trip this summer (August 19 – 27). See the itinerary and reserve your spot by clicking this link .

Are you considering traveling to Lebanon? Did you find these tips helpful? Let me know your plans in the comments! 

Read This Next:

  • 10 Unforgettable Places to Visit in Lebanon
  • 10+ Effortless Ways to Start Saving Money for Travel
  • The Best First-Time Solo Female Travel Destinations
  • Solo Female Traveler Safety Tips Every Woman Should Know

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Rachel Off Duty: Everything You Need to Know Before Traveling to Lebanon - Rachel Off Duty

Hey there! I’m Rachel, a travel writer and a full-time advertising / marketing expert. In 2019, I traveled more than 25 times while working 9 to 5, and since then I’ve committed myself to living a more adventurous life, even if it means bringing my laptop along for the ride. Are you hungry to travel more, but overwhelmed with how to juggle work and play? You’ve come to the right place!

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Travel Advisory January 29, 2024

Lebanon - level 3: reconsider travel.

Updated to reflect lowering the overall Travel Advisory to Level 3, information about southern Lebanon, the border with Syria, and refugee settlements in Lebanon, information on crime and political violence, kidnapping, unexploded landmines, civil unrest, and the “If you decide to travel” section.

Reconsider travel to Lebanon due to  crime, terrorism, civil unrest, kidnapping, unexploded landmines, and armed conflict . Some areas, especially near the borders, have increased risk. Read the entire Travel Advisory.

Do Not Travel to:

  • Southern Lebanon due to the  potential for armed conflict;
  • The border with Syria due to  terrorism and armed conflict;
  • Refugee settlements due to  the potential for armed clashes .

Country Summary : U.S. citizens in Lebanon should be aware of the risks of remaining in the country and review their personal security plans. U.S. citizens are urged to avoid travel to southern Lebanon, the Syrian border, and refugee settlements in Lebanon.

U.S. citizens in Lebanon should be aware that consular officers from the U.S. Embassy are not always able to travel to assist them. The Department of State considers the threat to U.S. government personnel in Beirut sufficiently serious to require them to live and work under strict security. The internal security policies of the U.S. Embassy may be adjusted at any time and without advance notice.

Terrorist groups continue plotting possible attacks in Lebanon. Terrorists may conduct attacks with little or no warning targeting tourist locations, transportation hubs, markets/shopping malls, and local government facilities.

The Lebanese government cannot guarantee the protection of U.S. citizens against sudden outbreaks of violence and armed conflict. Family, neighborhood, or sectarian disputes can escalate quickly and can lead to gunfire or other violence with no warning.

Local security authorities have noted a rise in violent crimes, including political violence. Multiple unsolved killings in Lebanon may have been politically motivated.

Kidnapping, whether for ransom, political motives, or family disputes, has occurred in Lebanon. Suspects in kidnappings may have ties to terrorist or criminal organizations.

Unexploded landmines and explosive remnants of war are a hazard along the border with Syria. Heed land mine warning signs. Do not venture off the road into areas marked off with red and white plastic tape. Avoid roadside ditches, shoulders, and unmarked trails. Never touch anything resembling unexploded munitions.

U.S. citizens should avoid demonstrations and exercise caution if in the vicinity of any large gatherings or protests as these have the potential to turn violent quickly and with little notice. Protesters have blocked major roads, including thoroughfares between downtown Beirut and the area where the U.S. Embassy is located, and between Beirut and Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport.

Read the  country information page  for additional information on travel to Lebanon.

If you decide to travel to Lebanon:

  • Visit our website for information on   Travel to High-Risk Areas .
  • Appoint one family member to serve as the point of contact with kidnappers/hostage-takers, media, U.S. and host country government agencies, and members of Congress if you are kidnapped, or taken hostage.
  • Keep travel documents up to date and easily accessible.
  • Do not touch unknown metal objects and avoid traveling off well-used roads, tracks, and paths due to risk of unexploded ordnance.
  • Avoid demonstrations and crowds.
  • Stay alert in locations frequented by Westerners.
  • Monitor local media for breaking events and adjust your plans based on new information.
  • Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program  ( STEP ) to receive Alerts and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
  • Follow the Department of State on  Facebook  and  Twitter .
  • Review the  Country Security Report  for Lebanon.
  • Visit the CDC page for the latest  Travel Health Information  related to your travel.
  • U.S. citizens who travel abroad should always have a contingency plan for emergency situations. Review the  Traveler’s Checklist .

Southern Lebanon – Level 4: Do Not Travel (See map below)

The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S. citizens to avoid southern Lebanon; that is, all parts south of the city of Saida, to include inland areas, as illustrated in the map below. Cross-border rocket, missile, and artillery fire continues to impact southern Lebanon on a daily basis and has caused a significant number of fatalities and injuries.

travel and more lebanon

Border with Syria – Level 4: Do Not Travel

The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S. citizens to avoid the Lebanon-Syria border, which has seen clashes between Lebanese security forces and Syrian-based violent extremist groups. The U.S. Department of State also warns U.S. citizens of the risk of traveling on flights that fly over Syria, which include some flights to and from Beirut.

Refugee Settlements – Level 4: Do Not Travel

The U.S. Embassy urges U.S. citizens to avoid travel to refugee settlements in Lebanon, which are prone to outbreaks of violence including shootings and explosions.

Visit our website for  Travel to High-Risk Areas .

Embassy Messages

View Alerts and Messages Archive

Quick Facts

Valid for ninety days following entry, with no Israeli stamps or visas

One page required for entry stamp

Embassies and Consulates

U.S. Embassy Beirut Awkar (facing the Awkar Municipality Building), Main Street Beirut, Lebanon Telephone:  +(961) 4-542600 or +(961) 4-543600 Emergency After-Hours Telephone:  +(961) 4-543600 Fax:  +(961) 4-544209 Email: [email protected]

Destination Description

See the Department of State’s Fact Sheet on Lebanon for information on U.S.-Lebanon relations.

Entry, Exit and Visa Requirements

  • Passports and visas are required.
  • U.S. citizens coming to Lebanon for tourism routinely receive a one-month visa on arrival at Beirut International Airport or other port of entry. This visa can be extended. Details on the extension can be obtained at a local office of  Sûreté Générale (General Security) .
  • U.S. citizens who also hold Lebanese citizenship are subject to the requirements and responsibilities of Lebanese citizenship under Lebanese law.
  • More information on Lebanon’s entry and exit requirements can be found on General Security’s  website .
  • Travelers who hold passports that contain visas or entry/exit stamps for Israel will be denied entry into Lebanon and may be subject to arrest or detention. Even if travel documents contain no Israeli stamps or visas, persons who have previously traveled to Israel may still face arrest and/or detention if prior travel is disclosed.
  • Travelers who have previously worked in Lebanon without the appropriate work visa may be denied entry, detained or deported.
  • Travelers who have previously resided in Lebanon under refugee status, regardless of current citizenship, may be denied entry.
  • Travelers who have overstayed their entry visa validity in Lebanon must obtain an exit visa from General Security’s Department of Passport and Immigration prior to their departure.
  • Individuals who are detained and awaiting deportation will remain detained until they pay the cost of their return airfare.
  • Authorities with General Security may retain U.S. passports for an extended period while U.S. citizens await issuance of work or residency permits.

For Additional Information:

  • Contact the  Embassy of Lebanon , 2560 28th Street NW, Washington, DC, 20008, tel. (202) 939-6300; e-mail:  [email protected] .
  • Los Angeles
  • Additional information on Honorary Consulates in the United States can be found within the Consular Affairs section of the  Embassy of Lebanon website .

The U.S. Department of State is unaware of any HIV/AIDS entry restrictions for visitors to or foreign residents of Lebanon.

Find information on  dual nationality ,  prevention of international child abduction  and  customs regulations  on our websites.

Safety and Security

Terrorism:   Across the world, terrorist groups and those inspired by such organizations are intent on attacking U.S. citizens abroad and resort to various methods of attack – including knives, firearms, and vehicles  – frequently on unprotected or vulnerable targets, such as:

  • High-profile public events (sporting contests, political rallies, demonstrations, holiday events, celebratory gatherings, etc.)
  • Hotels, clubs, and restaurants frequented by tourists
  • Places of worship
  • Shopping malls and markets
  • Public transportation systems (including subways, buses, trains, and scheduled commercial flights)

In Lebanon, there is potential for death or injury because of terrorist attacks. Violent extremist groups, including U.S. government-designated terrorist organizations, operate in Lebanon. ISIS and affiliated groups have claimed responsibility for suicide bombings in Lebanon. U.S. citizens have been the targets of terrorist attacks in Lebanon. The threat of anti-Western terrorist activity persists, as does the risk of death or injury to bystanders. Clashes between Lebanese authorities and criminal elements continue to occur in areas of the Bekaa Valley and border regions.  Hizballah maintains a strong presence in the Bekaa Valley, in addition to areas in southern Lebanon and south Beirut. In addition to the threat of Hizballah conducted terrorist activity, Hizballah has been the target of attacks by other extremist groups for their support of the Assad regime in Syria.

Avoid the Lebanon-Syria border region: The U.S. Embassy strongly urges U.S. citizens to avoid the Lebanese-Syrian border region because of past clashes, extremist activity, and the potential for these to recur at any time.

Avoid the Lebanon-Israel border region: Hostilities flared in Southern Lebanon in April 2022, and again in April 2023, due to tensions between Israel, Hizballah, and the Palestinian terrorist group HAMAS. The potential for wider conflict remains. The U.S. Embassy urges U.S. citizens to avoid the Lebanon-Israel border area due to ongoing tensions between the two countries. Attacks and responses can occur without warning. Landmines and unexploded ordnance pose significant dangers throughout southern Lebanon, particularly south of the Litani River. Travelers should watch for posted landmine warnings and strictly avoid all marked areas.

Avoid travel to refugee settlements: Violence within refugee settlements has resulted in shootings and explosions. U.S. citizens should avoid travel to refugee settlements. Palestinian groups hostile to both the Lebanese government and the United States operate autonomously in formal and informal refugee settlements in different areas of the country.

For more information, see our Terrorism page.

Crime: Reported crime rates in Lebanon are moderate but rising. Violent crime and sexual assault are rare but do occur. Petty theft -- such as pickpocketing and purse snatching -- occurs in crowded public areas. More recently, the dire economic situation is engendering a significant increase in economically motivated crimes, including home invasions and car thefts. Police are responsive but often unable to affect a positive outcome.

Demonstrations occur frequently. They may take place in response to political or economic issues, on politically significant holidays, and during international events. Protests often occur spontaneously with little to no advance warning.

  • Even demonstrations intended to be peaceful can turn confrontational and possibly become violent. 
  • Avoid areas around protests and demonstrations. 
  • Check local media for updates and traffic advisories.

International Financial Scams: Internet romance and financial scams are prevalent in Lebanon. Scams are often initiated through Internet postings/profiles or by unsolicited emails and letters. Scammers almost always pose as U.S. citizens who have no one else to turn to for help.

Common scams include:

  • Romance/Online dating
  • Work permits/job offers

See the  Department of State  and the  FBI pages for information.

Victims of Crime: U.S. citizen victims of sexual assault or domestic violence are encouraged to contact the U.S. Embassy for assistance. Report crimes by visiting the nearest police or by calling the ISF hotline 1745 and contact the U.S. Embassy at +(961) 4-542600 or +(961) 4-543600. Local authorities are responsible for investigating and prosecuting crimes.

See our webpage on help for U.S. victims of crime overseas .

  • Help you find appropriate medical care
  • Assist you in reporting a crime to the police
  • Contact relatives or friends with your written consent
  • Provide general information regarding the victim’s role during the local investigation and following its conclusion
  • Provide a list of local attorneys
  • Provide our information on victim’s compensation programs in the U.S.
  • Provide an emergency loan for repatriation to the United States and/or limited medical support in cases of destitution
  • Help you find accommodation and arrange flights home
  • Replace a stolen or lost passport

Domestic Violence: U.S. citizen victims of domestic violence are encouraged to contact the Embassy for assistance.

Tourism: The tourism industry is unevenly regulated, and safety inspections for equipment and facilities do not commonly occur. Hazardous areas/activities are not always identified with appropriate signage, and staff may not be trained or certified either by the host government or by recognized authorities in the field. In the event of an injury, appropriate medical treatment is typically available only in/near major cities. First responders are generally unable to access areas outside of major cities and to provide urgent medical treatment. U.S. citizens are encouraged to purchase medical evacuation insurance. See our webpage for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage.

Local Laws & Special Circumstances

Criminal Penalties: You are subject to local laws. If you violate local laws, even unknowingly, you may be expelled, arrested, or imprisoned. Individuals establishing a business or practicing a profession that requires additional permits or licensing should seek information from the competent local authorities, prior to practicing or operating a business.  

Penalties for possessing, using, or trafficking in illegal drugs in Lebanon can be significant, and convicted offenders can expect long jail sentences and heavy fines. Visitors lacking passport or identification documents at government checkpoints are subject to questioning by Lebanese authorities. In certain areas, taking photos of buildings or other infrastructure has led to questioning and detention. In Lebanon, persons driving under the influence can be jailed immediately.

Furthermore, some laws are also prosecutable in the United States, regardless of local law. For examples, see our website on crimes against minors abroad and the Department of Justice website .

Arrest Notification: If you are arrested or detained, ask police or prison officials to notify the U.S. Embassy immediately. See our webpage for further information.

Individuals who were affiliated with the former militia known as the South Lebanon Army (SLA) and previously departed Lebanon because of their association with that group should carefully consider any plans to return to Lebanon. Alleged former members of the SLA have been detained on arrival and received threats to their physical security, even after receiving assurances from Lebanese officials and/or legal counsel in Lebanon that they could return safely.

Counterfeit and Pirated Goods: Although counterfeit and pirated goods are prevalent in many countries, they may still be illegal according to local laws. You may also pay fines or have to give them up if you bring them back to the United States. See the U.S. Department of Justice website for more information.

Faith-Based Travelers:   See the following webpages for details:

  • Faith-Based Travel Information
  • International Religious Freedom Report – see country reports
  • Human Rights Report – see country reports
  • Hajj Fact Sheet for Travelers
  • Best Practices for Volunteering Abroad

LGBTQI+ Travelers: LGBTQI+ status and/or conduct is criminalized in Lebanon, and LGBTQI+ persons can face significant social stigma. Article 534 of the Lebanese Penal Code prohibits sexual relations, “contradicting the laws of nature,” an offense punishable by up to one year in prison. Although Lebanese courts have interpreted this provision in different ways and prosecutions are rare, judicial decisions can vary case-to-case and LGBTQI+ adults have been charged, tried, and convicted for engaging in consensual same-sex relations. Authorities have arrested LGBTQI+ individuals for minor offenses, then charged them with violation of Article 534 when evidence of their LGBTQI+ identity is uncovered, through searches of cell phones or other personal material. While prosecution is uncommon, short-term detentions can expose individuals to discrimination and abuse.

There has been a rise in anti-LGBTQI+ rhetoric from political and religious leaders, accompanied by an increase in online harassment, threats of violence, and violence against LGBTQI+ persons. In August 2023, members of an anti-LGBTQI+ religious group attacked an LGBTQI+ friendly establishment in the Mar Mikhael neighborhood of Beirut, reportedly threatening, assaulting, and injuring patrons. Gatherings, events, or items (including those with rainbows) perceived as “promoting homosexuality” have the potential of being scrutinized, monitored or disbanded by security forces.

While Lebanese authorities indicate that travelers entering Lebanon with passports showing X gender will be admitted without difficulty, the United States government cannot guarantee your entry or transit through other countries.

See our LGBTQI+ Travel Information page and section 6 of our Human Rights Report for further details.

Travelers with Disabilities: The law in Lebanon prohibits discrimination against persons with physical, sensory, intellectual or mental disabilities, but the law is unevenly enforced. Social acceptance of persons with disabilities in public is relatively low. Some facilities and information have been made accessible, but such standard accessibility is not common. Expect infrastructure accessibility to be limited in urban areas, and even more so in the rest of the country. There are a handful of hotels that are partially accessible in the Beirut area. Some transportation companies do provide accessible services. Events and activities are rarely designed to be inclusive.

Service providers for people with disabilities, such as sign language interpreters or personal assistants, are available but limited in Lebanon. The best way to find assistance is to contact organizations for people with disabilities such as the Lebanese Union for Persons with Physical Disabilities, the Youth Association of the Blind, the Lebanese Federation of the Deaf, or the Lebanese Association for Self Advocacy.

Students:  See our Students Abroad page and FBI travel tips .

 Exit Bans: U.S. citizens living in or traveling in Lebanon are sometimes denied permission to depart the country because a criminal, civil, or family court has imposed an exit ban. For example, a head of household can place an exit ban against a spouse and children even before the family arrives in Lebanon. Easily initiated, exit bans remain in place for prolonged periods and can only be removed by petition from an attorney. The U.S. Embassy cannot have exit bans removed, even in times of crisis. An attorney’s list is available on U.S. Embassy Beirut’s website .

Women Travelers: See our travel tips for Women Travelers .

Dual Citizenship: U.S. citizens who also hold Lebanese nationality are considered by local authorities to be Lebanese, even when entering Lebanon using a U.S. passport. Lebanese-U.S. citizens who are suspected of association with Israeli citizens or officials, or to have traveled through Israel, are subject to detention, arrest, and prosecution. Their passports may be retained by Lebanese authorities on arrival, and they must appear at the Lebanese Military court the next business day for investigation, after which their passports may be returned if no connections with Israel are confirmed. U.S. citizen dual nationals of other Arab countries who arrive at a Lebanese point of entry with an Israeli stamp in their passports will be denied entry and may be detained or arrested. Travelers with a family name deemed to be of Israeli or Jewish origin may also be questioned or detained.

Travelers who have previously entered Lebanon illegally under Lebanese law, whether as refugees or for transit to a third country, may be denied entry, even if they are or have since become U.S. citizens.

Middle Eastern Heritage: U.S. citizens with names reflecting Middle Eastern heritage may face additional scrutiny at Lebanese ports of entry and may be required to show documentary evidence of their parentage: specifically, official proof of their father’s name such as a copy of their birth certificate.

Marrying in Lebanon: More than 18 separate and distinct religious sects solemnize marriages in Lebanon. Civil marriage is not available. U.S. citizen and Lebanese national couples should familiarize themselves with the rights and responsibilities of marriage as defined by the religion performing their marriage. They should be aware that religious clerics and religious courts dictate all personal status matters related to marriage, divorce, and child custody. In matters of marriage, child custody, inheritance, and divorce, personal status laws provide unequal treatment across the various confessional court systems but generally discriminate against women.  Nationality law also discriminates against women, who may not confer citizenship to their spouses and children. Civil marriages performed outside of Lebanon and registered with Lebanon’s Ministry of the Interior fall under civil court jurisdiction regarding divorce and child custody.

Military Service Obligation: Mandatory military service in Lebanon was abolished in 2007. However, travelers with questions about prior military service, desertion, or failure to register in the past should contact the Embassy of Lebanon in Washington, D.C. for details prior to traveling to Lebanon.

Customs: Lebanese customs authorities may enforce strict regulations concerning import and export of items, such as firearms, military paraphernalia, professional camera equipment, other communications equipment, or antiquities. You should contact the Embassy of Lebanon in Washington, D.C., for specific information regarding customs requirements. Please see our information on customs regulations .

For emergency services in Lebanon dial 112.

Ambulance services are:

  • not widely available and training and availability of emergency responders may be below U.S. standards.
  • not equipped with state-of-the-art medical equipment.
  • Injured or seriously ill travelers may prefer to take a taxi or private vehicle to the nearest major hospital rather than wait for an ambulance.

We do not pay the medical bills.  Be aware that U.S. Medicare/Medicaid does not apply overseas. Most hospitals and doctors overseas do not accept U.S. health insurance.

Medical Insurance:  Make sure your health insurance plan provides coverage overseas. Most care providers overseas only accept cash payments. See our webpage for more information on insurance providers for overseas coverage. Visit the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention for more information on type of insurance you should consider before you travel overseas.

We strongly recommend supplemental insurance to cover medical evacuation.

Always carry your prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription. Check with the Lebanon Ministry of Health to ensure the medication is legal in Lebanon.

Vaccinations:  Be up-to-date on all  vaccinations  recommended by the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

Further health information:

  • World Health Organization
  • U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention  (CDC)

Air Quality:  Visit  AirNow Department of State  for information on air quality at U.S. Embassies and Consulates.

Water Quality:  In all areas, tap water is not potable. Bottled water and beverages are generally safe.

Health facilities in general:

  • Adequate health facilities are available in Beirut, but health care in rural areas may be below U.S. standards.
  • Public medical clinics lack basic resources and supplies.
  • Hospitals and doctors often require payment “up front” prior to service or admission. Credit card payment is not always accepted; most hospitals and medical professionals require cash payment, often in U.S. dollars.
  • Private hospitals usually require advance payment or proof of adequate insurance before admitting a patient.
  • Medical staff may have limited English proficiency.
  • Patients bear all costs for transfer to or between hospitals.
  • Psychological and psychiatric services are limited, even in the larger cities.

Pharmaceuticals      

  • Due to the current economic situation in Lebanon, many medications are not available in pharmacies and medical facilities.
  • Exercise caution when purchasing medication outside the United States. Pharmaceuticals, both over the counter and requiring prescription in the United States, are often readily available for purchase with little controls. Medication should be purchased in consultation with a medical professional and from reputable establishments .
  • Always carry your prescription medication in original packaging, along with your doctor’s prescription. Check with the Ministry of Health to ensure the medication is legal in Lebanon.
  • U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the Food and Drug Administration are responsible for rules governing the transport of medication back to the United States. Medication purchased abroad must meet their requirements to be legally brought back into the United States. Medication should be for personal use and must be approved for usage in the United States. Please visit the U.S. Customs and Border Protection and the Food and Drug Administration websites for more information.

The U.S. Embassy maintains a list of doctors and hospitals . We do not endorse or recommend any specific medical provider or clinic.

Travel and Transportation

Road Conditions and Safety:  Road conditions differ significantly from those in the United States. In certain areas, pedestrians have minimal access to sidewalks and are forced to walk along the sides of busy roadways. There are very few bicycle lanes designated for cyclists, and drivers are unaccustomed to sharing the road with cyclists. Beirut streets and highway lanes are known for their heavy traffic congestion and aggressive driving. Lanes are generally unmarked, and roads outside the capital may be poorly lighted.

Drivers generally will find inter-city directional signs and street markers, but side roads often bear no signposts.

An international driver’s license is required for visitors to Lebanon. Please refer to our Road Safety page and the website of Lebanon’s National Tourist Office for more information.

Traffic Laws:

  • Drivers must carry a valid driver’s license, registration and proof of insurance while driving. Licenses are issued to those at least 18 years of age.
  • Drivers must obey speed limits and traffic lights, and yield to ambulances, fire engines, and other emergency vehicles.
  • Radar detection devices are prohibited.
  • Seat belts are compulsory for both front and rear passengers in all vehicles, and helmets are mandatory for cyclists and motorcycle riders.
  • A hazard triangle in the vehicle is mandatory.
  • Driving under the influence of alcohol and drugs is prohibited, as are open alcohol containers in a vehicle
  • Cell phone use while driving is prohibited, except with a hands-free system.
  • Children under the age of 5 must be secured in a car seat, and children under the age of 10 may not sit in a front seat or be carried on a motorcycle.

A comprehensive listing of Lebanese traffic laws (in Arabic) is available on the website of the Lebanese Internal Security Forces (ISF).

Public Transportation:  In general, public transportation in Lebanon is safe. Buses operate throughout the country but serve a primarily working-class clientele. Taxis are widely available and rideshare services are also active in Lebanon. See our Road Safety page for more information.

Aviation Safety Oversight:   As there is no direct commercial air service to the United States by carriers registered in Lebanon, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has not assessed the government of Lebanon’s Civil Aviation Authority for compliance with International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) aviation safety standards. Further information may be found on the  FAA’s safety assessment page .

Because of the risks to civil aviation operating in airspace immediately adjacent to the Damascus Flight Information Region (FIR), the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has issued a Notice to Air Missions (NOTAM) and/or a Special Federal Aviation Regulation (SFAR) that prohibits U.S. and codeshare flights from flying through the Damascus FIR and advises caution for flights operating in the airspace within 200 nautical miles of the Damascus FIR due to heightened military activity in or around Syria.

For more information, U.S. citizens should consult the  Federal Aviation Administration's Prohibitions, Restrictions, and Notices .

Maritime Travel:  “The U.S. Coast Guard has concerns about the safety practices in the Port of Beirut and finds that the Lebanese Ministry of Public Works and Transport has not fully implemented the International Ship and Port Facility Security Code. As a result, the U.S. Coast Guard conducts additional screenings of ships that have stopped in Lebanon prior to arrival in the United States.  Assessments by the U.S. Coast Guard indicate that Mariners and passengers traveling through the Port of Beirut should exercise caution.”

Mariners planning travel to Lebanon should also check for U.S. maritime advisories and alerts within the MARAD website . Information may also be posted to the U.S. Coast Guard homeport website , and the NGA broadcast warnings website . Navigational warnings can be found under the “Current Warnings” section for the applicable NAVAREA from within the NGA site.

For additional travel information

  • Enroll in the  Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP)  to receive security messages and make it easier to locate you in an emergency.
  • Call us in Washington, D.C. at 1-888-407-4747 (toll-free in the United States and Canada) or 1-202-501-4444 (from all other countries) from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., Eastern Standard Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).
  • See the  State Department’s travel website  for the  Worldwide Caution  and  Travel Advisories .
  • Follow us on  Twitter  and  Facebook .
  • See  traveling safely abroad  for useful travel tips.

Review information about International Parental Child Abduction in  Lebanon . For additional IPCA-related information, please see the  International Child Abduction Prevention and Return Act (ICAPRA)  report.

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Quit and Go Travel

Ultimate Lebanon Travel Guide

The ultimate travel guide to lebanon.

Last Updated: 22 Feb 2023.

This guide will tell you everything you need to know for visiting Lebanon during the current crisis, updated regularly with the latest pandemic travel restrictions and for changes caused by Lebanon’s current crises.  I have lived in Lebanon for the past three years ( narrowly surviving the 2020 port explosion ) and have visited almost every inch of this beautiful and crazy country.

Lebanon was a beautiful country with vibrant cities and beautiful ancient historic sites before the multiple crises that began in 2019.  And actually, it still is.  With a bit of planning, it’s still possible to have an amazing trip here, despite the political crisis, economic crisis, electricity shortages, frequent protests and the after effects of the port explosion.

The huge rectangular temple of Bacchus

The 2,200 year old Roman temple of Bacchus, the wine god, in Baalbek.

Places to Visit

One of the best things about Lebanon is that almost any area can be visited as a day trip from Beirut.  You can choose to do the below as a series of day trips or stay overnight in different cities as you travel.  Staying overnight reduces the time spent travelling, but also means you have to take everything with you as you travel.

In my opinion, the real must see place in Beirut are the Raouche (Pigeon) rocks, which are a beautiful place to watch the sunset.  If you’re feeling adventurous, take the path down the cliff from the viewing point next to the Bay Rock Cafe (opposite Starbucks) and sit on the rocks opposite Raouche.  From there, not only do you get a beautiful view of the rocks themselves, but also of the sun setting over the Mediterranean Sea.  It’s a great place to enjoy a couple of beers or a bottle of wine.  

Raouche and the nearby viewpoint

The best place to view Pigeon Rocks (left, with people gathered). Also a great location to take a bottle of wine for a romantic sunset date.

One of the joys of Beirut is just strolling through its vibrant neighbourhoods.  I particularly recommend Hamra, which is an interesting mix of old and new, with boutique shops, bars and restaurants.  Gemayze and Mar Mikhael, the main bar district, are also gradually coming back to life after the port explosion destroyed them in 2020.  Zaytuna Bay is a chance to see the more upmarket side of Beirut.

The centre of the Beirut Souks area, including the iconic clock tower in Place de L’Etoile and the Roman baths, has reopened after being cordoned off by the military due to protests for the past two and a half years.  Until recently, it was still possible to enter the ‘egg,’ an abandoned cinema building purportedly left to remind people of the atrocities of the civil war (it’s full of bullet holes), but unfortunately the authorities have now built a fence around it to keep people out.  

The National Museum of Beirut reopened to tourists in summer 2021 and is currently open daily.  Be sure not to miss the ‘mummy room’ on the basement level, which houses three mummies from the Qadisha Valley.  It’s a little temperature-controlled room in a corner and easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there.

travel and more lebanon

The Beirut ‘egg’ (abandoned cinema) and the main mosque.

The Jeita Grottoes & Byblos

The Jeita Grottoes, located slightly to the north of Beirut, are spectacular and conveniently located not far from the coastal highway up to Byblos, making the two a convenient day trip.  You can also choose to stay overnight in Byblos before heading further up north.

At the Jeita Grottoes, you have to leave your phone in a little locker near the entrance, as they don’t allow photographs.  It doesn’t look very secure, but I’ve never heard of anyone having problems.  

The main attraction of Byblos is wandering the beautiful historic centre, with its ancient Mediterranean architecture, beautiful flowers growing up the walls and in some cases across nets over the streets and cute boutiques, bars and restaurants.  There’s also an ancient citadel that’s worth checking out and the picturesque little harbour.  

If you’re looking for something a little adventurous, walk along the right hand wall of the harbour (as you’re facing out to sea) until you reach the ancient tower at the harbour entrance.  From here, with a bit of care, you can climb up to the top of the tower for amazing sunset views, often without any other people.  

If the beach is more your thing, slightly north of the harbour you’ll find a pebble beach that’s great for swimming in the summer (approximately May to October).  Finally, Byblos is home to Fenicia restaurant, in my opinion one of the best restaurants in the whole of Lebanon.  

The waterfront of Byblos lit up at night

Byblos harbour is beautiful day and night.

A pretty seaside town in the north of Lebanon, Batroun is nice for an afternoon to wander it’s old town, which is basically a less touristy version of Byblos.  In the Batroun area there are several off-the-beaten-track places that are worth checking out if you have time:

  • The Msailha fort, just up the main highway from the city, is small but impressive, standing alone on a huge rock (it’s also free to enter).  The location is here on Google Maps .
  • The Rock of Hamat, a giant rock painted in the colours of the Lebanese flag, on the edge of the old cliffside road from Batroun to Chekka.  The location is here on Google Maps .
  • The cliffside walk though the old road tunnel to the north of the cliffside road from Batroun to Chekka.  Go to coordinates 34.311459, 35.681865 ( here on Google Maps ) and then take the footpath on the left hand side of the road before the current tunnel entrance.
  • For the more adventurous travellers, the disused railway tunnel.  To reach the entrance, after the current road tunnel walk about 100m then go down the footpath on the left hand side of the road.  Two thirds of the way down, there’s a little bank on the left that you can scramble up (about 2-3m).  The entrance to the tunnel is at the top of this bank.

Mseilha Fort, perched on a rock with green hills and blue skies in the background.

The spectacular Mseilha Fort, just outside of Batroun.

Much of the time, Lebanon doesn’t feel like the Middle East.  There are no deserts, no camels (apart from a couple in Chouf that were imported from Saudi just to entertain tourists) and many of the main cities, including Beirut, Byblos and Batroun, have more of a Mediterranean feel than a Middle Eastern feel.  And then you reach Tripoli.  Check out the old souk (market) and the citadel.  The souk seems to close around sunset at the moment, possibly due to a lack of power after dark.  

Tripoli’s Corniche is, in my opinion, not as nice as Beirut’s, but Al Mina, the old town, is quaint and has several nice restaurants, including The Sailor Woman, my favourite seafood restaurant in Lebanon.  If you have plenty of time, you can also catch a boat from the Corniche to Palm Island, which has the biggest sandy beach in the north of Lebanon.  It’s a nice place to chill out and swim in the sea.  

Me and a group of friends in swimwear on the beach on Rabbit Island.

Beach Day on Rabbit Island with a group of crazy Couchsurfers.

Anjar & Baalbek

The Roman ruins at Baalbek are some of the most spectacular in the world, especially the enormous temple of Bacchus, the wine God (gotta love Roman priorities).  That’s why you should visit Anjar first!  Anjar is beautiful and spectacular, but after Baalbek, it will seem small and insignificant in comparison.  Don’t forget to try sfeeha, the local delicacy, while you’re in Baalbek.  Baalbek is also home to the Sayyida Khawla shrine, one of the most beautiful and historic Shia shrines in Lebanon.

The ornately decorate tomb inside the Sayyida Khawla shrine.

Local believe that Khawla, daughter of Imam al-Husayn, is buried in this tomb, although historians aren’t sure that Imam al-Husayn even had a daughter.

Baalbek has a bad reputation for safety, but this generally refers to other parts of Baalbek governorate, not Baalbek city.  If you’re concerned about safety, just don’t go north of the city (and definitely keep away from Arsel, which has a justifiably rough reputation).

Saida & Mleeta

Saida has probably the most beautiful souk (market) in the whole of Lebanon, full of ancient stone archways and local people hawking traditional wares (and delicious Arab sweets).  There’s also the small but worth-a-visit Dabane Palace Museum, a soap museum and the Hammam el-Sheikh traditional bathhouse.  The seafort on the waterfront is also worth a visit (although more spectacular from the outside than inside).  If you want a beer, go to Resthouse, a restaurant next to the seafort that is the only place in Saida allowed to sell alcohol.  Its garden is also a great place to take photos of the seafort.

Mleeta is a tiny village in the mountains that is home to probably the most well-maintained museum in Lebanon – The Hezbollah Museum.  Here, a free English-speaking guide will take you around and tell you about the various wars against Israel and Hezbollah’s role in protecting and driving out the enemy.  Whatever your political views, the museum is very well done and worth a visit.  It’s located about a 40-minute drive up into the mountains above Saida.

A stone castle stands in the sea with a stone walkway leading to it.

The Saida seafort – a castle in the sea.

One of the oldest cities in the world, Tyre is home to an ancient Roman Hippodrome.  The site itself is a bit rundown now, but the ruins are still impressive.  There’s also a pretty little old town with less tourists than other cities in Lebanon and a colourful harbour full of fishing boats.  The restaurants next to it are worth checking out for some fresh seafood too.  To the south of the city is Lebanon’s longest sandy beach.  This was affected by the oil spill off Israel in 2021, but is now clean again and safe for swimming.  

A harbour full of little fishing boats with colourful buildings in the background.

Tyre’s colourful harbour – a great place to eat fresh seafood.

The Northern Mountains

There are many beautiful places to visit in the northern mountains of Lebanon, aside from just the pleasure of driving through the local villages and the often breathtaking scenery.  The three I would recommend for visitors are:

  • The 2,000 year old olive trees in Bchaleeh, which are supposedly the oldest in the world.  Local legends say that the olive branch from the story of Noah’s Ark came from one of these trees, but you can make up your own mind.   The location is clearly marked on Google Maps .
  • The viewpoint at Aqoura.  Climb the rocky hill opposite the church for spectacular 360 degree views).   The start point is at Saydat Al Qarn church ( here on Google Maps ).
  • The Batarra Waterfall.  This 255m (837 ft) waterfall, which passes through several layers of Jurassic limestone rock, is definitely the most beautiful in Lebanon.  It’s best visited in the spring when there is plenty of meltwater.  I went in early August once and there was no water at all.
  • The Cedars of God.  At possibly 2,500 years old, the Cedars of God are some of the oldest cedar trees in the world and a UNESCO world heritage site to boot.

You will need a car to reach these locations, or you could try hitchhiking.  

A waterfall disappearing through three tiers of limestone

The 255m Batarra waterfall. Try throwing a stone down into the chasm below and see how long it takes before you near it hit the bottom.

The Chouf Region

Home to the majority of the Druze population of Lebanon, the Chouf region also contains the country’s largest remaining cedar forests at the Chouf Biosphere Reserve.  This is a great place to do some hiking with trails from 5 minutes to a full day.  

The region also contains the Bettadine palace, which was built by the Ottomans, and the Moussa Palace, which was built over several decades by a crazy Lebanese man who wanted his own palace.  The latter contains a vast collection of ancient weapons and some very well done scenes from traditional Lebanese life, created with models animated in various ways.  I love the concept that the guy just suddenly decided to build himself a palace!

Three mannequins in traditional clothing sit around an old-fashioned table.

A traditional Lebanese scene in the Moussa Palace museum.

The Christian city of Jounieh used to be where Arabs from stricter countries in the Middle East went to party and unwind, as evidenced by the strip of hotels on the coast that look like they’ve seen better days.  Even now, the city is still home to Lebanon’s only casino, Casino du Liban, and a bunch of ‘super night clubs’ – basically stripclubs.

For tourists not looking for such things, the main attraction is Harissa, the hill behind the city with a statue of Our Lady of Lebanon on the top.  There is also a very nice (but steep) hike up from the city below through the dense forest with occasional views across the bay.  The start of the path is at coordinates 33.997710, 35.650976 ( here on Google Maps ).  Recommended for sunset.  

Hermel and Akkar

The far north of Lebanon is known as one of its most dangerous areas, but most reports are highly exaggerated.  The main attraction here is the 2,500 year-old Pyramid of Hermel, which I visited in 2021 .  Even now, no one’s quite sure who built it!  Worth a visit if you have the time, but its location in one of the most remote parts of the country means that it won’t fit many peoples’ itineraries.  

Me and a friend in front of the Pyramid of Hermel

Nobody is sure why the Pyramid of Hermel was built.

The Far South (UNIFIL-Controlled Area)

The far south of Lebanon is interesting, because you can drive along beside the border wall with Israel, which is covered in security cameras and, in some places, graffiti similar to that seen in the Palestinian territories.  The coast at Naqoura also have the cleanest waters in Lebanon for swimming, thanks to the low population density and proximity to Israel, which has better sewage treatment facilities than Lebanon.  

The downside is that this area is under control of the UN peacekeeping force (UNIFIL) and foreigners need a permit to enter it.  See below the section on Entering the UNIFIL-Controlled Area for details of how to obtain the permit.  

This picturesque little village in the mountains near Saida is often overlooked by travellers, which is a pity, as it boasts one of Lebanon’s most spectacular waterfalls.  For hikers, the village is surrounded by Lebanon’s largest pine forest.  For those who want something darker, there’re also some interesting abandoned buildings leftover from Lebanon’s war of resistance against Israel to explore.  Read more in my dedicated Jezzine guide here.

Me, standing on a sea wall with the blue Mediterranean in the background.

The sea wall south of Naqoura

Suggested Itineraries

Pick and choose where to visit from the places above.  However, my suggestions are as follows:

Two-day Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos .  This is way too short, but spend one day wandering Beirut, watch the sunset at Raouche in the evening and then head to the Jeita Grottoes and Byblos on day 2.

Four-day Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos – Saida & Mleeta – Anjar & Baalbek.   Best to base yourself in Beirut for this itinerary, which covers the major highlights of the country.  

One-week (7 day) Trip: Beirut – Jeita Grottoes & Byblos – Tripoli – The Northern Mountains – Saida & Mleeta – The Southern Mountains – Anjar & Baalbek. This itinerary includes most of the highlights of the country with a variety of cities, ancient ruins and nature.

Two-week (14 day) Trip or Longe r : Beirut – Jeita Grottoes – Jounieh – Byblos – Batroun – Tripoli – The Northern Mountains – Anjar & Baalbek – Saida & Mleeta – Jezzine – The Southern Mountains – Tyre .  You could easily spend more than a day in many of the places listed here, making the trip more relaxing and enjoyable.  Alternatively, add in some hiking or visit some random villages in the mountains, many of which are beautiful.  

Me, standing in front of the Rock of Hamat, which has been painted in the colours of the Lebanese flag.

If you have the time, check out the Rock of Hamat near Batroun for a very Instagrammable pic.

I had no idea until I moved to Lebanon, but the country has some amazing hikes.  My personal favourites are the following:

  • Qornet As Sawda (Black Peak) – The highest mountain in not only Lebanon, but the entire Levant region, and 5th highest in the Middle East, at 3,088m.  The landscape is like nothing else in the country, as barren as the moon.  It gets very cold near the top and is covered in snow from around November to May, so it’s best to avoid these times.  The hike starts from the Cedars ski resort near the Cedars of God and the first two hours follow the ski lifts.  The total hiking time is about 8 hours and it’s long, but not difficult.  
  • The Chouf Biosphere Reserve – The largest cedar forests in Lebanon make for some beautiful hiking.  The reserve is clearly marked on Google Maps and is suitable for short or long hikes.
  • The Qadisha Valley – Possibly the most beautiful place in the whole of Lebanon, a Colombian monk lives in a tiny monastery perched high on a cliff above the valley.  The path to the monastery is narrow with beautiful views and not particularly difficult, although the monk himself has stopped meeting visitors recently, due to the risk of Covid, as he is very old.
  • Jabel Moussa Biosphere Reserve – There are many hikes here, from short 3-5km jaunts to 20km marathons and over steep mountain paths.  The highlight is Chouwen lake, which is a beautiful turquoise blue.  It’s also possible to swim in it during the summer.  
  • Bkassine Pine Forest – The largest pine forest in Lebanon is riddled with beautiful hiking trails.  Check out my Jezzine guide for details .

Me, standing on a barren landscape of brown dirt

The moonscape of Qornet As Sawda is like nothing else in the whole of Lebanon.

A black fire salamander with yellow spots

A rare near eastern fire salamander, spotted by yours truly while hiking in the Chouf region.

Me, squatting in a lush green forest with a small waterfall and lots of green moss in the background.

Anyone who thinks the Middle East is only desert and camels has never been to Lebanon – the lush green of the Qadisha Valley is like something out of a Disney film.

Impact of the Crisis – Electricity

Lebanon’s national grid currently only supplies about 1-2 hours of electricity per day to most parts of the country, due to a shortage of fuel, insufficient capacity and various other factors.  This is terrible if you’re local and don’t have a backup power supply.  However, for tourists it’s actually not that big a problem, as major hotels have good generators that provide 24/7 power and most restaurants and other businesses also have generators, if not all the time.

The best advice here is check with your hotel before visiting.  Some generators are not designed to run 24/7 and so buildings can have gaps without power.  My apartment currently has seven hours in 24 with no power, split between the night and morning, when they let the generator ‘rest.’

The electricity crisis has made the roads more dangerous – many street lights and traffic lights are not operating.  If you do drive in Lebanon, when you come to a junction without working traffic lights, just slow down and drive slowly through.  Most Lebanese drivers are very cautious at these junctions, as the economic crisis has made imported car parts astronomically expensive and no one wants to damage their car.  

A burned out car on the edge of a road in Beirut.

Protests occasionally turn violent, but luckily protest areas are easily avoided by visitors.

Impact of the Crisis – Hyperinflation

The most important thing to remember is to bring enough cash for the duration of your stay.  The best currency to bring is USD, but other common currencies, such as EUR and GBP, can also be exchanged at black market rates.  Licensed currency exchange shops are now permitted to exchange currency at black market rates, so you no need to be hooked up with a black market dealer.  

Pro tip : before coming to Lebanon, download the Lira Rate or Lira Exchange app for your smartphone.  These apps show the current black market rates and, although the rate on the street is usually slightly lower, give you a good guide as to the approximate rate you should expect when changing money.

If you do run out of money in Lebanon, don’t withdraw money from an ATM if you can possibly avoid it.  ATMs currently operate at the official rate of 15,000 LBP to the USD, so you’re losing most of your money to the banks.  The same applies to paying for things priced in LBP with credit/debit cards.  ATMs no longer offer USD currency withdrawal for foreign bank cards.  The best approach for travellers is to use a currency transfer service like MoneyGram or Western Union, which allow you to transfer in foreign currency and collect it in USD.

One knock on effect of the economic crisis is that Lebanon is now significantly cheaper than it used to be.  Hotels have started charging foreigners in dollars again, but everything else, and especially food, is much cheaper than it was before.  A good Lebanese meal for two in a normal restaurant will usually cost about $15, including drinks.  In a slightly more upmarket restaurant, expect to pay around $30.  

A battered silver Sudan with the badge changed to a Batman logo

The economic crisis is so bad that Batman had to trade in the Batmobile.

Impact of the Crisis – Safety

Crime rates in Lebanon are very low and, although they have risen recently as people become increasingly desperate, rates of petty theft are still lower than in most of Europe and criminals in general do not specifically target foreigners.  That said, the atmosphere can feel tense and the fortifications erected in some areas (lots of barbed wire, concrete barriers and patrolling soldiers) can give the impression that the safety situation is worse than it is.  

Most violent incidents that have been in the news recently have occurred during protests, often of a political nature.  If you do see the beginnings of a protest, such as groups of people marching together or tyres burning in the road, simply turn around and leave the area.  Protests usually start peacefully, but build to a point where the demonstrations spill over into violence.  Again, protests do not target foreigners, but there is a risk of being caught in the violence if you stick around.

An unfortunate legacy of the Lebanese civil war is that a lot of the populations still own guns.  At a recent protest in Beirut, not only were there shootings with machine guns, but the violence escalated with the use of RPGs.  This is an extreme case.  Again, I stayed away from the area.  

Guns are also often used at funerals or celebrations, where they are shot into the air in waves of celebratory gunfire.  Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, and people are occasionally killed by falling bullets or by bullets entering buildings through windows.  If you do hear shooting while you’re in a building, move to the interior, away from the windows and wait for it to subside.  If you’re outside, leave the area.  Funerals rarely happen in the city centre, which is the most interesting area for foreign travellers, so you probably won’t come across them anyway.  Furn El Chebek, Chiyah, Tariq El Jdideh and Jnah are common areas for funerals.

A run-down neighbourhood of Tripoli with ramshackle buildings on a hillside

Lebanon is generally very safe. Even walking through the slummier neighbourhoods of Tripoli, Lebanon’s poorest city, I never felt unsafe.

Certain areas of Beirut experience violence far more than others.  In general, the southern suburbs of Beirurt, south of main road where the National Museum of Beirut is located, are less safe than the city centre.  In particular, Chiyah, Cola and Tayouneh and Tariq El Jdideh have all seen violent protests.  Martyr’s Square and the Beirut souks area also see frequent protests, but these tend to be less violent than those in the south.

As a tourist, the only areas you’re likely to visit to the south are Badaro (an upmarket bar street) and the Cola Intersection, as it’s the main hub for public transport to the south and the Bekaa Valley.  I visit these locations regularly and have never had problems, but keep an eye out just in case.

This may all sound very scary, but actually Lebanon is very safe for tourists.  Even now, by far the most dangerous thing is the roads, where accidents are frequent.  Just use a bit of common sense and you’ll be fine.

Impact of the Crisis – Fuel

One of the best ways to see Lebanon, and especially the more remote parts, is to rent a car and drive yourself.  During the summer of 2021, fuel became extremely difficult to obtain, often requiring queuing for hours (if you can even find a fuel station that’s open).  The only other option was to purchase it on the blackmarket at vastly inflated prices.

The good news is that, since the end of September 2021, fuel has been readily available again.  The government has let the price of fuel rise to close to market value, which has reduced incentives for fuel hoarding and smuggling to Syria.  

Queue of motorbikes at a MEDCO fuel station

Bikers queuing for fuel at the peak of the fuel crisis in 2021

Ethics – Should I Visit Lebanon During the Crisis?

With frequent power cuts and shortages of some products, many people question whether they should visit a country while it’s in crisis, as they feel they may be using limited resources that are needed by the local population.  In the case of Lebanon, the answer is definitely yes, you should visit.  Lebanon produces very little domestically – even 80%+ of food is imported.  Shortages are not caused by a lack of supply on global markets, they’re caused by a lack of financial means to purchase supply (compounded by corruption and a range of other factors).  

By visiting Lebanon, you are bringing much needed foreign currency into the country and, by buying products and services from local businesses, ensuring that it reaches local people who need it.  One of the biggest problems for Lebanese people is that the value of the LBP to the dollar is so low, which makes imports expensive.  Everytime there is a large influx of visitors, for example with the Lebanese diaspora returning home over Christmas, the LBP gains value, helping local people.  This shows the positive effect that an influx of foreign currency has and, as an individual your contribution will be small, but will certainly be positive.  In other words, don’t feel bad about visiting!

Me and a group of friends in a bar in Bourj Hammoud, Beirut

Lebanese people are very good at enjoying life, even in the middle of a crisis.

One of the best ways to see Lebanon is to rent a car.  Car rentals are cheap now (about $20/day for a small car, including insurance) and Lebanon is a very car-based society.  A deposit of around $100 is often requested in cash for your first rental.  So far, I’ve not heard of any problems having this refunded.  In theory, an International Driver’s Permit is required, but in reality no one cares, at least not if your local driver’s licence is in English, French or Arabic.

I usually rent from Mike Rent-a-Car, which is a good option if you want to support local businesses.  The price is generally $20-30/day depending on the season for a small car and their Website is at www.mikerentacar.com .  Their office in Beirut is located here .  Alternatively, the big international car rental companies, such as Avis and Europcar , also operate in Lebanon.  They also have the advantage of having a presence at the airport, so you don’t need to bother with other transport to get to your accommodation. 

Cars and Drivers

If you don’t feel confident driving in Lebanon, it is possible to hire a car and driver from a hotel or hostel. This can cost upwards from around $70 a day plus fuel, but hotels may charge significantly more.

Ride Hailing Apps

Uber and Bolt both work well in Beirut.  Bolt is usually slightly cheaper, but Uber cars are generally in better condition and the drivers are more professional.  These apps are also by far the cheapest way to get to or from the airport in Beirut.  Just be sure to change the payment method to cash, as credit cards are billed at the official exchange rate so you’ll end up paying $50 for a 5-minute trip across town.

Public Transport

Lebanon has an informal public transport network made up for service (shared) taxis and minibuses.  These are operated privately with pricing regulated by the government.  There are also public buses from Beirut to Tripoli.  Vehicles licensed for public transport, including taxis, all have red number plates (or red lettering on the number plate).

To catch a service (shared) taxi, stand on the edge of a road (main roads are usually better) and hold out your arm when a taxi comes past (look for the red number plates).  Ask the driver “Service?”  If he agrees, it means the taxi is shared, so you will not be charged for a private journey.  Then tell him your destination.  If he’s going in the right direction and willing to take you there, he’ll agree.  Finally, ask him the price.  Most drivers are very honest, but a few do try to overcharge foreigners.  

Inside Beirut

Service taxis operate throughout Beirut, although explaining the destination can be tricky.  Often, the easiest approach is just to say the name of the area, such as “Hamra,” “Gemayze,” “Daora,” or “Cola.”  Minibuses on set routes also operate, but finding the routes is extremely difficult, so use the same approach as when taking a service and ask the driver whether he goes to your destination.  Prices for service taxis are just over $1 and for minibuses around $0.50.

Northern Lebanon

Shared taxis and minibuses run from the Daora roundabout in Beirut up the coastal highway to Jounieh, Byblos, Batroun and Tripoli.  Prices vary, but are cheap, starting at about $1 to Jounieh.  Just ask the drivers whether they go to the city you want to reach.

For Tripoli, there’s also a bus that runs on an actual schedule from Martyr’s Square in Beirut.  

Their current schedule can be found on their Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/connexion.transportation . 

Southern Lebanon and the Bekaa Valle y

Minibuses run from the Cola Intersection in southern Beirut down the coastal highway to Saida and Tyre, as well as to Baalbek in the Bekaa Valley and to the Chouf region.  To visit the Chouf Biosphere Reserve, catch the bus to Barouk, the name of the nearest village.  From there, you need to walk several kilometres to enter the reserve and there is no public transport.  Hitchhiking could be an option. 

To reach Anjar, take the minibus to Baalbek and get off at Chtoura.  From here, there are other minibuses running to Anjar.  

The Jeita Grottoes

The Jeita Grottoes are located about halfway between Beirut and Byblos, approximately 5km from the highway.  Take public transport from the Daora roundabout and get off at the Ajaltoun exit of the main highway (coordinates 33.960616, 35.604071, here on Google Maps ).  From here you can either walk (5km uphill) or take a taxi.  There are usually several drivers hanging around this area, although prices can be high and will depend on your negotiation skills.  To get back to the highway afterwards, you can usually find a driver in the Jeita Grottoes carpark.  Another good option to reach the Jeita Grottoes is to take an Uber all the way from Beirut.  Uber is cheap in Lebanon, so this works out around the same price.

I’m not aware of any public transport option to reach this area of the country (including Aqoura, the Batara waterfall and the Cedars of God), so your options are really driving or hitchhiking.  

A view over the mountain landscape with snow on the distant mountains.

The view from Aqoura – there is still snow on the mountains in early May.  The northern mountains are a pain to get to without a car, but worth the effort.

Transport to and from Beirut Airport

Uber is a cheap and convenient way to get to or from the airport in Beirut.  This should cost around $6.  However, this can be tricky when first arriving, due to needing to obtain Lebanese pounds to pay the driver.  If the exchange counter at the airport is not open or the rate is bad, you can try negotiating with the Uber driver to pay in USD at the black market rate.

There are always plenty of local taxis waiting at the airport to take you to the city centre.  These often try to charge ridiculous rates to foreigners – up to $50 for the 10-15 minute journey.  With a bit of bargaining, you should be able to agree on around $10.

Checkpoints

There are military checkpoints on the roads throughout Lebanon and even within some parts of Beirut.  Generally, they wave foreigners through without saying anything.  If driving yourself, slowdown at the checkpoint, wind down the window and greet the soldier.  Most times, he’ll wave you though before you even come to a stop.  

In my two years here during which I’ve travelled the country extensively, I’ve been asked twice for my nationality and had my passport checked once (so carry it with you, just in case), and that was on the road between Hermel and Qobayat, one of the most remote parts of the country.

Entering the UNIFIL-Controlled Area

The only exception to the above is the checkpoints for entering the UNIFIL-controlled area south of the Litani river near the border with Israel.  Foreigners can only enter with a permit obtained in advance (with the exception of UN employees).  To obtain the permit, visit the police headquarters in Saida with your passport.  The police station is at coordinates 33.550327, 35.381710 ( here on Google Maps ).  You need to bring your passport and colour photocopies of the identity page and your entry stamp to Lebanon (and visa, if you come from a country that needs a visa to enter Lebanon).  It generally takes less than one hour and permits can be issued for entry on the same day.  Permits can be obtained for one or multiple days.

Concrete and wire border wall with security cameras on it

Northern Israel, as viewed over the imposing border wall in south Lebanon.

Recently (as of early 2023), the black market exchange rate has been hovering around the 80,000 LBP to the USD rate, whereas the official rate is 15,000 LBP.  Previously, currency exchange shops were prohibited from giving the black market rate, but the government has relaxed this rule, so any currency exchange shop can exchange money for you.  Just make sure you bring plenty of cash.

Whatever you do, don’t use a foreign bank card in an ATM or to pay in shops.  The banks still apply the official rate, so you’ll be paying several times the real price.  

A picture of six 100,000 LBP notes

Pre-crisis, these notes were worth about $66 each. Now they’re worth around $3.

Mobile Phone Service and SIM Cards

Lebanon has good mobile Internet even in most rural areas.  SIM cards are widely available from mobile phone shops.  I use Alpha, which has good 4G coverage across most of the country.  Passports are not required to obtain a SIM.  Prices fluctuate, but a SIM card with 6GB of data valid for one month can be obtained for around $20.  I have been warned to check that the seller gives you the packaging to ensure that it’s not a reused, although I’m not sure what the problem would be with this..  

Restaurants and Coffee Shops

One of the greatest pleasures of visiting Lebanon is the food.  This list is by no means exhaustive, but here are my favourite restaurants.  I happen to like coffee a lot, so I’ve also slung in a few coffee shop recommendations for good measure.

  • Resto Ghazar: My favourite Lebanese-Armenian restaurant.  Try the soubeureg (cheese pastries), mouhamara (pomegranate with nuts) and manti.  Although not Armenian, their batata harra (spicy potatoes with coriander) is also out of this world.  Prices are very reasonable, at about $10-15 a person, including drinks.  
  • Ohannes Restaurant: Another great Armenian restaurant, with beautiful tiled decor.  The food is also great, especially the Ohannes salad and fried liver.  This place is a bit more upmarket at about $15-25 per person, including drinks.
  • T-Marbouta: A variety of great Lebanese food in the heart of Hamra with a nice outdoor seating area.  About $8-15 a person, including drinks.
  • Sawani Falfoul: A great place for breakfast in Badaro, an upmarket bar street.  In particular, try the foul (a kind of chickpea soup, pronounced like the word “fool” in English), shakshuka (scrambled egg with tomato) and hummus (the “Malaysian” hummus is particularly good, if not very Lebanese sounding).
  • Barbar Restaurant: Basic but tasty Lebanese barbeque restaurant in Hamra.  Not sure of the current price, but cheap!
  • Le Chef: A traditional Lebanese restaurant that claims to be the oldest in Lebanon, although my Lebanese friends tell me that this is bullshit.  The place has a lot of character and was saved from bankruptcy by a donation from Russel Crow, who once ate there, after being destroyed in the port explosion in August 2020.
  • Notes Speciality Coffee: My local coffee place.  Great brews and the chance to meet me if you’re there in the morning (I often work from there).  

Quail eggs with basterma.

Quail eggs with basterma (seasoned meat) – an Armenian-Lebanese delicacy.

  • Fenicia: This restaurant is so good that I have hardly eaten anywhere else in Byblos.  Up there with Resto Ghazar as one of my two favourite restaurants in Lebanon.  The environment is elegant and the food is absolutely out-of-this-world.  The cheese/shrimp rolls and the mixed grill plata are my recommendations.  Prices are about $15-25 per person, including drinks.  The only problem is that they don’t take reservations and getting a seat can be difficult.  

A local restaurant with tables outside on the street and flowers growing above.

Byblos has many local restaurants, like this Italian one, where you can sit outside and enjoy the old town vibe.

  • The Colonel Brewery: Lebanon’s most famous craft beer brewery, the Colonel recently opened a restaurant with a view of the Mediterranean and a great selection of fresh seafood.  Try the delicious raw fish if you’re feeling adventurous.  A meal for two including drinks is around $30.
  • Barrio 67: Not Lebanese cuisine, but delicious international food and nice decoration in the heart of the old town.  Prices are about $15-25 per person, including drinks. 
  • The Sailor Woman: this cute little restaurant serves only six dishes – fish with tahini, calamari, octopus, french fries, fattouch (traditional Lebanese green salad) and Tabbouleh (traditional Lebanese salad with Parsley).  What makes it so special is that all the cooking is done by a little old lady in her apartment, which is just next to the restaurant.  The fish is also very fresh, as Tripoli is the centre of the Lebanese fishing industry.  
  • Newtown Coffee: Great place to take a break from sightseeing and chill.  Nice environment and good coffee.  

A plate of fish with Tahini with two plates of salad in the background.

My favourite fish in Tahini at The Sailor Woman restaurant.

A selection of Lebanese sweets

Be sure to try some Lebanese sweets, which can be found across the country.

  • Foul Abou El Ezz: Another breakfast place, simple, very local and delicious.  Try the foul (a kind of chickpea soup, pronounced like the word “fool” in English) and hummus.  
  • Green’s Coffee: One of my favourite coffee shops in Lebanon with a great selection of coffees and even a deli counter.  The environment is top-notch with a nice retro feel.  
  • Resthouse: Overpriced (although still cheap by international standards), but with a great view of the Seafort and the only place allowed to sell alcohol in Saida.  Perfect for a beer with a view on a hot summer’s day.

A man sieving icing sugar over Arabic sweets

A man making local sweets at a little bakery in the winding streets of Saida’s old bazaar.

  • Local sfeeha place: On the main street of Baalbek, on the left as you’re walking away from the Roman ruins, you’ll come across what is basically a traditional oven in a room on the edge of the street with a few tables outside (approx. coordinates: 34.005245, 36.208302, here on Google Maps ).   They make one dish – delicious sfeeha, the traditional meat pastry originally from Baalbek – and they make it really well.  It’s a while since I’ve been there, so not sure of the exact price, but twenty sfeeha cost a few dollars.

A local man filling sfiha pastries with minced meat in front of a brick oven on the edge of the street in Baalbek

Local sfiha meat pastries being prepared for the brick oven.

  • Fresh seafood: Tyre has a wonderful selection of reasonably-priced fresh seafood restaurants overlooking the harbour.  The location is at 33.274307, 35.194684 ( here on Google Maps ) and there are several small restaurants with harbour views nearby.  Prices start from about $10 a person, including drinks.

Accommodation

Hotels recently switched to charging foreign tourists in USD and so the prices are roughly the same as before the crisis.  You may be able to negotiate a deal with some of the smaller places when you’re here, but that’s tricky to do in advance.  AirBNB can be a very good option and relatively cheap.  With any accommodation, check the hours that they have electricty before booking.

Couchsurfing

Lebanon has an active Couchsurfing community.  Many people here host travellers and there are often events organised.  If you’re looking to meet local people, this is a great way to do it.  

Covid-19, PCR Tests and Entry Requirements

As of 28 September 2022, the Lebanese government cancelled all Covid-related requirements for entering Lebanon.  Once in the country there are also no longer restrictions and masks are not required.  

PCR tests are not required for departure from Beirut airport.  However, if you need one for your next destination, they can be obtained at many hospitals in Lebanon.  I have used Hotel Dieu de France hospital in the past. There’s also a lab that will send someone to your accommodation to do the test for you.  It’s very convenient and the results are available same day, sent via WhatsApp.  They can be contacted on WhatsApp at +961 3 444 925.  Wherever you do the test, it will have a QR code.  Prices vary depending on the exchange rate, but are generally around $10-12.

More about Lebanon

After two years living in Lebanon, I’ve visited almost every inch of the country.  You can read about my adventures here:

Jezzine Travel Guide

Jezzine Travel Guide

Why Visit Jezzine?  The picturesque village of Jezzine is perched high on a cliff top overlooking the incredible Jezzine waterfall - at 90m (295ft), one of the highest waterfalls in Lebanon.  It’s also practically surrounded by Bkassine forest, the largest pine forest...

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon

Hermel & Beyond: Road Tripping Remote Lebanon As a Scot, I’m used to living in countries far bigger than my own.  Lebanon is the exception - the entire country is only about 200km long and 80km wide at its widest point.  So how, you might ask, can there be ‘remote...

Looking for even more great ideas?  Here’s another in-depth travel guide to Lebanon by Romana and Jakub at Broken Naviation, including hotel recommendations for all budgets (living here I don’t stay in hotels much).  They have some really beautiful photographs too.  Check it out here:

  • How to Travel to Lebanon in 2022 & 11 Days Itinerary

Don’t forget to leave a comment below if you enjoyed the article or have questions!

Me, standing next to the I Love Beirut

Beirut is one crazy beautiful city in one crazy beautiful country. I can’t not love it.

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30 Comments

Jose Sebastiao

Wow, this is a great post. Thank you so much. We’re travelling to Lebanon for a week in May (9th – 15th) and were a bit unsure of what to see/do because of the crisis. This has helped a lot. I’m coming with a friend. Hit me up if you’d like to hang out.

rowan

Hey mate, great to hear the guide was helpful. I’m actually outside the country travelling Sudan at the moment (another amazing place), so won’t be around on those dates. Enjoy Lebanon!

Monica Pagano

I absolutely love this guide. I am a 50plus woman who travels around the world and I am in Egypt now. I want to go and spend a month there in June/July and would love to contact people who want to meet and Argentina my age or around my age. I am not rich, my country goes through the same struggles than Lebanon with the second highest inflation in the world. I do have a website on the works and I can recommend your site, I believe the only waay we can make a change is to share

Hi Monica, that’s great. I’m sure you’ll enjoy Lebanon a lot. For meeting people, you might want to try Couch Surfing. The community in Lebanon is quite active.

Morris Dalton

Thank you so much for the useful information. I’m travelling to Lebanon for a week in 30th May – 6th June and was uncertain of what to expect. You information has helped me feel more confident. I’m coming by myself as my partner can’t make it because of work commitments. Feel free to contact me if you’d like have a chat over drinks. PS I’m keen to go to Sudan and see the Pyramids there. Hope you enjoyed it.

Hi Morris. Great to hear that the information was helpful. I would definitely be up for meeting for a drink, as long as I’m in Lebanon at that time. Could you drop me a message on the quitandgotravel Instagram page? I don’t want to put my WhatsApp number on this page as it’ll inevitably get flooded with spam.

Sudan was amazing! Working on a guide for that now, but will take some time.

Katie

This is amazing, thank you so much for publishing this! I’ve had a hard time getting a real read on the situation. We are planning a trip in July, probably just Beirut for 4 or 5 days. Do you have any hotel recommendations?

Hi Katie, glad to hear it was useful. July is a great time to visit, the weather will be beautiful. Beirut is a great place to base yourself, but I would suggest to do at least a day trip to Byblos and the Jeita Grottoes. Regarding hotels, as I live here, I don’t stay in them and so don’t have specific recommendations. However, wherever you stay, the main thing to check is whether they have a generator and how many hours of power they have per day. Generally, the higher-end hotels have 24/7 power, whereas the lower-end ones could be just a few hours a day.

Lily

Hi Rowan, this was SO helpful, thank you! Hoping to visit May 27-June 4 but was nervous about the US government “level 3” travel advisory. I saw your disclaimer about the elections last week – how is the sentiment now?

Hi Lily, glad this was helpful. The elections have gone relatively peacefully, so hoping things will be back to normal by then. Time will tell, so feel free to reach out to me nearer the time to confirm.

will

Think your guide is really helpful mate. I’m looking to visit with my girlfriend for at least a week in Oct before flying on to India, but we will not hire a car to keep the costs down, so hopefully we can visit places like Byblos and Kadisha Valley by bus/shared taxi etc as we’d love to do some hiking. Thanks again.

Awesome mate, glad the guide was helpful. Lebanon is very doable with public transport (and maybe a bit of hitchhiking to Kadisha). Enjoy India!

Will

Is the situation pretty unstable atm mate? Been looking at uk gov website and it seems to say avoid all but essential travel to Lebanon. Not going until Oct, so I hope thing may improve then, but would you say wait to see if it calms down a bit before booking flights, or just take the gov advice with a pinch of salt? As your blog seems to indicate its not too bad 🙂 sorry for the bombardment of questions!

Hey mate, already replied to your email, but for anyone else reading, government travel warnings tend to exaggerate. It’s actually very peaceful here at the moment. Lebanese people are very friendly and crime rates are low. In Lebanon, the situation can change quickly, but I wouldn’t let that put you off visiting.

Miriam

Hi Rowan, thanks for sharing those helpful Informations. Do you know if there is a possibility to get from Bcharré to Baalbek by public transportation in September

Hi Miriam. Glad the blog has been useful. Unfortunately, there is no public transport from Bcharré to Baalbek. By public transport, you’d need to go back to Beirut and then over the main highway to Baalbek, which is a huge detour. However, I’m sure you could hitchhike it without much difficultly. Lebanese people are very friendly and a female friend of mine who was volunteering in Anjar the past few weeks hitchhiked all over the country without problems.

Alison

Wowwwww I was just looking around, totally unsure about Lebanon and feeling no way I could Really do it but your post has totally changed my mind.

I hope to meet you for a coffee hello.

~A Solo woman traveller

Ps, Pls let me know your thoughts on overland travel from jordan through syria.

Hey, glad the blog helped inspire you! Overland travel from Jordan is possible with an organised tour, as that’s generally the only way to get the visa. It’s expensive but doable and I’ve spoken with people who’ve done it. A coffee sounds good, drop me a message on Insta @quitandgotravel when you know the dates.

Stacy

This post re Lebanon is fantastic. I’m traveling alone; do you have any tour guide recommendations? Also, if you’re up for a cup of coffee and a chat, I’ll be there the first week of July.

Hi Stacy, great to hear the post is useful. I never use tour guides (except in North Korea, where it’s mandatory), so can’t recommend one. However, Lebanon is very doable solo. I’d definitely be up for a coffee and should be here that week. Can you drop me a message on Insta? @quitandgotravel

Rose

This blog was really helpful – I’m a solo female traveler and have been looking to go to Beirut to visit my friend’s dog and bring him doggie treats (and I guess say hi to my friend too and bring human treats) but with everything that has happened in the past two years it has been a bit difficult to get it organised. Due to my nationality it also appears the visa process will take longer than normal in my current country of residence. I would rather not have to get my (human) friend send some sort of invitation letter in order for me to get a visa, but I guess I’ll just have to see and try and Lebanese Embassy. I look forward to reading more of your blog.

Your poor friend, I can see that he or she is definitely second to the dog! Good luck with the visa though, I hope you get it sorted out okay, and thanks for your kind comments.

Lili

Thanks so much for this guide. I’m Lebanese background and even I found it very very useful. My Aussie partner and I are going to Lebanon in September and I’m wondering which neighbourhood to book our Airbnb. We want to be able to walk all of Beirut, prefer to flush toilet paper down the toilet haha and want to be walking distance to cafes, bars and be able to walk home safely afterwards (or is it safer to get a service/taxi?). Also did you have any issues with being overcharged for things? Memories of taxi drivers taking me around the block a couple of times in Syria and charging me double haha

Hi Lili. Great to hear that my blog is even useful to Lebanese! For AirBNBs, Gemayze is probably the best Neighborhood. It’s walking distance to most things and has power more often than Hamra, so is less dark. Beirut is still very safe and walkable, even now. I think it’s a cultural thing, but despite the ever increasing poverty levels, crime rates are still low here. Most people are pretty honest, so rip offs are not common. The worst are taxis, especially from the airport, so use Uber or Bolt and set the app to pay cash (don’t pay more than 200,000 LBP from the airport).

David Gray

Rowan, as others have said this is a great blog. Many thanks for all this info. I am a keen cyclist but cannot find any of the major adventure tour companies who offer cycling holidays in Lebanon. Do you know of any cycling organisations in Lebanon who might be able to help me put together an itinerary.

Hi David. I’m happy you liked the blog. I focus on independent travel, so not sure about tour companies to be honest. I don’t think cycling is a big thing here though (drivers are not so considerate), but that said, it could be a good way to see the country.

Ivy

I had planned a trip to Lebanon in May 2020 (tickets paid for and everything) but Covid happened. Since then, Lebanon had gone through some significant changes like the economic crisis, etc, and I was really unsure if this year was the right time to be visiting Lebanon; was thinking of doing so in December.

Your blog had really helped, it is positive yet realistic. I am leaning heavily on traveling to Lebanon this year.

I heard it is easy to do a day trip to Damascus from Beirut? Have you done this trip? If so, was it a good experience?

Hi Ivy. Great to hear that you’re planning to visit Lebanon. Keep your eye on the news, but if it stays like it is now, you’ll have a great time. Day trips to Damascus are easily arranged. I don’t like organised tours, so I haven’t done one. I’m still working on the visa now, but hope to visit Syria independently for a couple of weeks in the near future.

Lovie Knight

Thank you so much for all this great information. My husband & am planning to move to Jadra, Lebanon with in the next year and I am doing research now and came across your blog. Any information you can send me in a email would be much appreciated. I have never traveled outside the U.S. . We plan on visiting for 2 weeks before we actually move there.

Hey that’s awesome that you’re moving here to Lebanon. It’s a wonderful country. Jadra is an interesting choice of location though! Most of the relevant information is in the blog, but feel free to let me know if you have specific questions.

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travel and more lebanon

Lebanon Travel Guide

Lebanon may not be a highly sought after tourist destination, but this little Middle Eastern country does have some amazing archaeological sights from Roman times.

One of the highlights would be the Baalbek ruins, which can be visited on a day trip from the Beirut area.

Read through this complete Lebanon travel guide for more info on what to expect!

Quick Facts

Arabic; 'Thank you' is 'shoukran'

Islam & Christianity

Lebanese Pound (LBP)

Visa on arrival for most nationalities

Mediterranean; hot, sunny summers & mild, rainy winters

Power Plugs

Type C / D / G

Uber, Careem

The only international airport in Lebanon is in Beirut (code: BEY), which has direct flights from other countries in the Middle East and beyond. You can shop for flights to Lebanon on Skyscanner.

Lebanon is a relatively safe place to travel, with some caveats. The UN violent crime rate is  4 per 100k inhabitants (36% lower than the global average), but terrorist attacks and kidnappings have occurred from time to time, so Lebanon may not be the best pick for solo travelers.

In any case, I would recommend avoiding crowds and practicing situational awareness. The other thing to note is that Lebanese culture is conservative, so clothing in public should be reasonably modest.

The climate for coastal parts of Lebanon is Mediterranean, with hot, sunny summers and mild, rainy winters.

The hottest months are July to September, but even in these months the heat is not nearly as severe as Middle Eastern countries like Kuwait or Qatar. Summer temperatures for Beirut generally don't go above 85 °F (29 °C).

The mildest weather for visiting Lebanon is during the spring or fall months, but any month of the year would be alright.

Lebanon may not be the most budget friendly travel destination, but it's not completely cost prohibitive either. Hostels are available from 300k Lebanese pounds ($20 USD) and private hotels starting from 600k . Meals are about 90k to 225k pounds depending on location.

Transportation in Lebanon is generally by motorbike or car, and these can be rented, but hiring a driver is preferable if you're new to the Middle East. Transportation apps like Uber and Careem are available here for short distance trips.

The best Lebanon tours & activities

My latest blog posts about Lebanon

How To Visit The Baalbek Temple Ruins In Lebanon

One of the highlights of my visit to the Middle East would have to be Baalbek Lebanon, with its Roman ruins and giant megalithic stones. This temple …

20 Lebanon Pictures That Will Make You Want To Travel

Lebanon may not be a highly sought after tourist destination, but this little Middle Eastern country does have some amazing archaeological sights from Roman times. Check out …

Get In Touch

Feel free to contact me if you have travel questions, comments, or suggestions! I'll try to get back to you!

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COUNTRY GUIDES , LEBANON , MIDDLE EAST · May 31, 2023 Last Updated on March 14, 2024

A COMPLETE GUIDE TO VISITING LEBANON

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Lebanon has a rich cultural diversity, influenced by its storied past and strategic geographic location in the heart of the Middle East. 

Lebanon is a very ancient region inhabited by various civilizations throughout history. For this reason, it is a country rich in history and archaeology. The Phoenicians were one of the most important civilizations famous for their navigation skills and creators of the alphabet. Likewise, it was an area occupied by Romans, Arabs, Ottomans, and Crusaders, so there are many churches, monasteries, ruins, castles, and fortifications dating from different centuries.

Lebanon is a small country, but it is one of the most diverse in the region, from beaches lapped by the Mediterranean to snow-capped mountains. The word Lebanon derives from the Semitic term “lbn” which means white in reference to the snow-capped mountains of Lebanon in winter.

Despite being in a conflictive geographical area, Lebanon enjoys a stability that allows it to open up to tourism. Once you have discovered this tourist gem, visiting it just once will not be enough.

How To Get To Lebanon

Beirut is the capital of Lebanon and the first port of entry if you’re traveling by plane. European capitals offer direct flights to Beirut and major European cities have flights with stopovers in either Athens or Istanbul. The main airlines that fly to Beirut are Turkish Airlines, Pegasus, Middle East Airlines (MEA), Lufthansa and Aegean Airlines.

To enter Lebanon, it is necessary to have a passport valid for at least six months and the address and telephone number of the accommodation. Most nationalities do not require a visa to visit Lebanon for tourist purposes. It depends according to the passport you have. However, it is not possible to enter Lebanon if your passport has an entry stamp from Israel due to the conflict between these two countries.

Local Currency Guide

The official currency of Lebanon is the Lebanese pound (LBP). Due to the current economic crisis, an unofficial exchange rate emerged, also known as the black market, which is actually the exchange rate that the Lebanese use on a daily basis.

The exchange rate with respect to the dollar or the euro varies constantly, so I recommend checking the updated exchange rate on the Lira Rate Org site and exchange only the money needed per day. Currency exchange sites are everywhere.

Since 2019, Lebanon has been experiencing an unprecedented economic crisis and it is currently not possible to pay anything with a credit card or withdraw money from an ATM. Consequently, travelers who wish to visit Lebanon should bring cash, preferably dollars, that are in good condition, as the economy has become dollarized, and more businesses are charging in dollars.

In case you run out of cash, in every corner of the country, you will find a Western Union or OMT to transfer money to yourself. Carrying cash might not be convenient, but in practice, it is not as complicated as it seems.

Traveling Around Lebanon

Lebanon is a small country in terms of territory, so traveling from north to south takes only a couple of hours. The most comfortable way to travel around is to rent a car, for example, Advanced Rental Cars , or rent a car with a driver, especially if you plan to visit places outside the main cities.

However, to my surprise, it is possible to move between main cities using public transport, which is comfortable, clean and cheap. From Beirut, the vans depart from the three main bus stations depending on where you want to go to from Cola bus station (Baalbek, Sidon, and Tire) or Daura bus station (Byblos, Batroun, and Tripoli).

The official language in Lebanon is Arabic, but French and English are also spoken due to its colonial history. Regardless of the language you speak, the kindness and hospitality of the people will make communication very easy.

Lebanese Food

Lebanese food is world-famous and definitely one of the main reasons people come to Lebanon. Lebanese food is a delicious combination of flavors and aromas that reflect the country’s rich culture. The traditional Lebanese breakfast is manousheh, a bread dough baked in olive oil that is often topped with zaatar, a mixture of traditional spices from the region.

Breakfast is usually accompanied by tomato, mint, feta cheese, and olives. Some dishes that you must try during your stay in Lebanon are hummus, tabbouleh, shawarma, kibbeh, and baba ganoush. Also, you should try Lebanese wines and Arak, a local alcoholic drink made from aniseed.

Security & Safety

Despite the economic crisis and political instability, Lebanon is a safe tourist destination even for women who want to travel alone. The hospitality and cordiality of the people make you always feel safe. However, it is recommended to follow the travel recommendations of the government of your country of origin and it is advisable to avoid political demonstrations or large crowds of people.

It is common to see checkpoints and military checkpoints throughout the country, so I always recommend carrying a copy of your passport.

Accommodation Options

Due to the economic crisis, not all hotels and hostels are registered on digital platforms as the banking system is frozen in the country. Larger hotels allow you to pay by card in advance, but smaller hotels require you to pay a percentage in cash or send via Western Union to secure your reservation.

Likewise, most cities have accommodations on Airbnb or on local accommodation platforms such as Dayf Homes or Chez Hospitality . Because the country is small, many tourists decide to make Beirut their base to stay and make round trips to the main cities.

Given the economic crisis, the country suffers from power cuts constantly and few places have electricity 24 hours a day. Therefore, when booking your accommodation, it is advisable to ask how many hours of electricity your accommodation will have.

How To Dress In Lebanon

Lebanon is a country with great religious diversity where the main religious communities are Muslims (Shiites and Sunnis), Christians (Catholics and Orthodox), and Druze.

The Lebanese constitution recognizes religious freedom and these groups coexist with each other. For this reason, in the capital and in predominantly Catholic cities, there are no dress code restrictions, especially for women.

In Muslim-majority cities like Tripoli, Sidon, and Tire it is recommended for women to cover their shoulders and knees if they wish to visit Islamic religious sites such as mosques. Despite this, there are no problems in dressing freely or wearing a bikini on the beaches.

Beirut Guide

Beirut is the capital and the largest city in Lebanon. Beirut is a place with a wide variety of activities to do. Dedicating at least a whole day to it is worth it and walking is the best way to get to know it.

Things To Do In Beirut

1) visit the national museum.

The National Museum consists of three floors that tell the story of Lebanon from prehistory to the present, with exhibits of archaeological artifacts and historical objects. Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

2) Walk around the Mineral Museum

The Mineral Museum is located in front of the National Museum and is an interesting site for those with an interest in geology and mineralogy. The museum has a collection of more than 2,000 minerals and rocks.

3) Learn about the history of Lebanon at the Beit Beirut

Beit Beirut is a museum and cultural center project that aims to portray the history of Beirut, with a particular focus on the Lebanese civil war. Lebanon was the scene of a civil war that lasted from 1975 to 1990; the ravages of this conflict are still present.

4) Explore Downtown Beirut

Downtown Beirut has very impressive architecture. Here you will find the Place de l’Etoile, a historic square surrounded by churches, mosques, and Roman ruins. Due to protests over the political and economic situation, this area is often fenced off by the military but ask the nearest officer for permission to be able to walk inside.

5) Visit the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque

Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque was built in 2007 and has an impressive blue dome. The entry times for non-Muslims is around 2:00 pm.

6) Walk around Zeituna Bay

Zeituna Bay is a popular site with a wide variety of restaurants, cafes, shops and recreational activities.

7) Take in the views at the Corniche

The Corniche is an ideal place for walking and experiencing the local life of locals. It offers stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and the city’s skyscrapers.

8) Explore the Rauche

Rauche is a coastal neighborhood famous for its rock formations; renting a boat and navigating among the rocks is possible. There are restaurants and cafes with impressive views of the sea.

9) Eat dinner in Gemmayzeh, Hamra or Mar Mikhael

Gemmayzeh, Hamra and Mar Mikhael are some of the most vibrant neighborhoods in Beirut at night – ideal areas for finding bars, restaurants and cafes.

Places To Eat In Beirut

Beirut has a wide variety of options for eating traditional Lebanese food. It is important to book to guarantee a place inside due to the popularity of these restaurants, especially during the weekends and high season.

Some of the restaurants and cafes that I recommend in Beirut are:

  • Mezzyan (Live Arabic music every Thursday)
  • Dar Beirut (Live Arabic music on weekends)
  • Salon Beyrouth

Places to Stay In Beirut

Some of the hotels and accommodations that I recommend in Beirut are:

  • The Grand Meshmosh
  • Baffa House
  • Beit Tamanna
  • La Maison Rayes
  • Hotel Arthaus
  • Albergo Hotel

Top-Rated Beirut Hotels

Here are some other top-rated hotel options in Beirut:

  • InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut – Overlooking the Beirut Marina and the Mediterranean Sea, featuring indoor and outdoor pools, a full-service spa, and a gym.
  • Beverly Hotel Beirut – Four-star luxury, boutique hotel, renovated in 2017, 1.5 miles to the beach.
  • Arthaus Beirut – Located a few steps from Gemayzeh Street (Rue Gouraud), accommodations close to the city center with a seasonal outdoor swimming pool, private parking, a garden, and a terrace.
  • ZUR Studios & Suites – Set in Beirut in the Mount Lebanon region, stylish studios and suites with free WiFi and free private parking, 1.7 miles to the beach. 
  • Ramada by Wyndham Downtown Beirut – Located 5 minutes walk from the famous new Zaytouna Bay and Beirut Souks Mall, The Corniche seaside promenade is just a 15-minute walk away.
  • Find the best prices on all Beirut Hotels

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Jounieh Guide

Jounieh is a coastal city and can be reached from Beirut by taxi or public transport. The center has a wide variety of cafes and shops. From Jounieh, you can take a cable car to reach Harissa, where the statue of the Virgin den Harissa stands on top of a hill overlooking the city and the Mediterranean.

Byblos Guide (Jbeil in Arabic)

Byblos, on the shores of the Mediterranean, is considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The word Byblosderives from the Greek word “book” and the legend says that the name Bible originated in this city since, in Phoenician times, this city was known for producing and trading papyrus to produce books.

The old town of Byblos is relatively small; a couple of hours are enough to explore it and visit the main archaeological sites.

Things to Do in Byblos

1) visit byblos castle.

Byblos Castle is a fortress located in the port of the city and was built by the Crusaders in the 12th century. This is one of the main archaeological sites and includes a Roman theater, a hippodrome and a Phoenician temple considered World Heritage Sites.

2) Explore the old Souq

The old souq (market in Arabic) of Byblos dates back to Phoenician times when it was one of the most important commercial centers in the Mediterranean. Today it is a popular place to buy souvenirs from Lebanon.

3) Visit the Port

The port of Byblos has been an important commercial center since ancient times. The port was an important starting point for Phoenician ships on their voyages along the Mediterranean coast and beyond.

4) Eat at Feniqia

Feniqia is one of the most traditional restaurants to eat in Byblos. It is located outside the Castle and offers typical Lebanese dishes.

Batroun Guide

Approximately 20 minutes from Byblos is Batroun, one of the oldest cities in the world but relatively new to tourism. Batroun is known for its beautiful architecture that combines elements from different historical periods, its old houses with red roofs,  beaches and nightlife.

Things to Do in Batroun

1) see batroun’s phoenician.

Batroun’s Phoenician wall was built during the time of the Phoenicians and was originally built to protect the city from tidal waves and foreign invaders. The wall is one of the oldest standing maritime fortifications.

2) Visit a Church

Batroun has several churches, such as St. Stephen Church, St. John Church John, and Church of Our Lady by the Sea; the latter is located right by the sea and offers a panoramic view of the Phoenician wall.

3) Explore a Batroun Souk

The Batroun souks are a popular place for shopping and walking around. They offer a wide variety of crafts, bars, and restaurants.

4) The Diaspora Village

The Diaspora Village is a cultural project created to honor the contribution of the Lebanese diaspora to the country. It is an area with restaurants and cafes where cultural events are constantly taking place.

5) Visit a Winery

Batroun is a wine region and has several wineries, such as Ixsir , which produces some of the best wines in the country.

Places to Eat In Batroun

  • Hills Limonade

Places to Stay Batroun

Some accommodation options in downtown Batroun:

  • Hotel Blue Marlin
  • Beit Barakat
  • Les Bouganvilliers
  • L’Auberge de la Mer

Beach Resorts in Batroun:

  • San Stephano Resort
  • Aqualand Hotel
  • Sawary Resort  
  • Sea View Hotel by Hansa

Tripoli Guide (Trablos in Arabic)

Tripoli is a city with a Muslim majority and certainly one of the cities where Lebanon feels most authentic. Tripoli has historical sites that are living testimony to the rich history of the city that was home to different civilizations such as the Phoenicians, Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Mamluks, and Ottomans.

Things to Do in Tripoli

1) see tripoli citadel.

The Crusaders built the Tripoli Citadel in the 12th century and is one of the best-preserved examples of medieval-era military architecture in the region.

2) Visit the souks of Tripoli

The souks of Tripoli are one of the few that remain in the same place where the caravans of the silk route used to stop. These souks have been in operation for centuries and you can find textiles, soaps, spices and handicrafts. There is a section dedicated exclusively to soap-making called Al Saboun Caravanserai due to the fame of this product. Lebanese lands are kind to olive trees, so the soaps made with their oil are of high quality.

3) Explore the Al Mansouri Mosque and the Taynal Mosque

The Al Mansouri Mosque and the Taynal Mosque are known for their architecture that combines Ottoman and local elements.

4) Relax at Hammam Al Abed

Hammam Al Abed is one of the largest and most historic Turkish baths in the city. These used to be meeting and relaxation places for the local population.

5) Visit the Al Mina Neighborhood

Al Mina neighborhood is one of the most picturesque neighborhoods in Tripoli. It has several restaurants and cafes along the port that offer local dishes and views of the sea.

Places to Eat in Tripoli

  • El Hajj Ali – Tripoli’s sweets and desserts enjoy a good reputation. The most traditional sweet is called “ashta” a dessert made of milk cream, pistachios and honey.
  • Hallab 1881

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Kadisha Valley Guide

The Kadisha Valley is located in northern Lebanon and is known for its nature and religious importance. This valley is home to several monasteries that were built in caves and cliffs.

This valley is considered a sacred place for Maronite Christians and ideal for people who are passionate about enjoying the landscapes and walking along its trails. To get to the Kadisha Valley, public transport from Tripoli to Bcharre is necessary, the closest city to the Kadisha Valley.

Baalbek Guide

Baalbek is one of the best-preserved archaeological sites in the world and is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The archaeological site is composed of several temples and structures dating from different historical periods.

The Temple of Jupiter was built during Roman times and is believed to have been built on top of a temple formerly dedicated to the Phoenician gods. Also included in the complex are the Temple of Bacchus and the Temple of Venus.

A few years ago, this area was the scene of waves of violence between groups in the region, but now the security situation has improved and tourists are once again coming back.

To get to Baalbek, renting a car with a driver is advisable and dividing the costs among the passengers. In this way, when you return from Baalbek, you can eat at the local restaurant Al Khan Al Makhsoud and later visit Chateau Ksara , the oldest vineyard in Lebanon. Approximately a full-day car rental with a driver to Baalbek from Beirut costs $120.

On the other hand, public buses to Baalbek leave every couple of minutes from Cola Bus Station in Beirut. Because they are constantly stopping, the arrival in Baalbek can take up to three hours, but it is an adventure that is worth taking as long as you leave Beirut early.

Lebanese Wine Guide

The Beqqa Valley is a very fertile area and is considered one of the most suitable places for growing vines, thanks to its Mediterranean climate. The history of wine in Lebanon dates back over 5,000 years.

On the way back from Baalbek, you can find Ksara vineyard , the oldest vineyard in Lebanon and the most visited due to its impressive Roman tunnels that the Jesuits used to store the wines.

However, there are other vineyards where you can also take a guided tour to taste Lebanese wines, such as Chateau Kefraya and Ixsir which were recently awarded international prizes.

Mountains In Lebanon

The Chouf Mountains in the Beiteddine area is a trip I recommend doing if you have enough time. This area is ideal to escape the city’s chaos and see nature, but it is difficult to reach by public transport since it is located off the highway that connects the main cities.

Things to Do in the Mountains in Lebanon

1) spend some time at beiteddine palace.

The Beiteddine Palace was built in the 9th century by Emir Bashir Shihab II, who used it as a summer residence. The palace is an impressive display of Ottoman-style architecture and has three courtyards with a large number of rooms delicately decorated with works of art, mosaics, and frescos. Today, in addition to being a tourist site, it is used to host cultural and official events.

2) Visit Moussa Castle

Moussa Castle was restored and has been converted into a museum displaying historical artifacts from the region. Personally, I don’t think it’s a worthwhile place, but if you’re curious, it’s a 5-minute drive from the Beiteddine Palace. Admission is $5 per person.

3) Take in the National Pride at Al Shouf Cedars Nature Reserve

The Al Shouf Cedars Nature Reserve is the ideal place to see the famous cedars, the national symbol and reason for national pride.

Places to Stay in the Mountains in Lebanon

The following places offer accommodation services and restaurants in the region with impressive views of the mountains:

  • Beyt El Jabal
  • Min Amir Hotel
  • Deir Al Oumara

Sidon Guide (Saida in Arabic)

Sidon is a coastal city south of Beirut with a rich history dating back to Phoenician times. It is the third largest city in Lebanon and was an important commercial center famous for its production of glass, textiles, and bronze objects. The main tourist attractions are located in the heart of the old Souk, just a couple of minutes walk from each other.

Things to Do in Sidon

1) visit sidon sea castle .

Sidon Sea Castle was a fortress built by the Crusaders in the 13th century. It is currently in ruins, but it is possible to enter and see some of its walls and towers that are still standing.

2) Shop at the Souks of Sidon

In the souks of Sidon, you can find all kinds of products, such as spices, sweets, clothing, and handicrafts, among other local products.

3) Learn About Soap-making

Sidon is also known for its olive oil soap production. The Soap Museum shows the traditional soap-making methods and their evolution over the years.

4) Explore the Debbane Palace

Debbane Palace is a beautiful museum that exemplifies Ottoman architecture.

5) Relax at a Turkish Bath

The hamman Al-Jadid dates from Roman times and preserves the traditional architecture of the Turkish baths. It was the last Hamman used by the residents of Sidon and its opening to the public for tourist purposes dates back to 2019.

Places to Eat in Sidon

In Sidon, the most popular place to have breakfast is at Bab Al Saray cafe . There are traditional and seafood restaurants such as Saida Rest House along the sea.

Tyr Guide (Sour in Arabic)

Tyr is the last city to the south where tourists usually arrive. In order to reach the cities closest to the border with Israel, for example, Naqoura, it is necessary to request a special permit from the Ministry of Security either in Sidon or Tire due to the conflict with the neighboring country of Israel. For security reasons, crossing the checkpoints without prior authorization from the government is not advisable.

Tyr was once the capital of the Phoenician kingdom of Tyr and also different civilizations like Babylonians, people, Greeks, Romans and Arabs passed through here.

Things to Do in Tyr

1) visit the necropolis of tyr.

Although not as impressive as Baalbek, the Necropolis of Tyr is an archaeological site that is worth visiting. The Necropolis is famous for its stone-carved tombs and sarcophagi. The well-preserved Arch of the Necropolis stands out within the archaeological complex, an impressive example of Roman architecture. In addition to the tombs and funerary monuments, there is a hippodrome and an aqueduct.

2) Explore the Center of Tyr

The center of Tyr is small and you can walk through the old Souq and the colorful streets of the center that have a view of the sea. On the boardwalk, there are several seafood restaurants that offer fresh fish.

Places to Stay in Tyr

  • Tyr are Dar Camelia
  • Dar Alma Hotel 
  • Asamina Hotel

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Lebanon travel guide: a 2-week itinerary

By Joan Torres 58 Comments Last updated on May 8, 2024

Lebanon travel guide

This is a compelling travel guide to Lebanon that shows how to visit the Levantine country during the crisis, including where to exchange in the black market. It also includes things to do, how to move around, where to stay and more.

Despite its tiny size, Lebanon is the most diverse country in the Middle East, a nation that chaotically combines both Arab and European Mediterranean culture, with their love for good wine and the most exquisite food in the region, without never losing their Arab essence.

Lebanon, however, is not in their brightest moment.

A deep economical crisis fuelled by the port explosion and also COVID-19 has left an impoverished country with terrible inflation, and an absolutely desperate population.

As a traveler, Lebanon has changed a lot, the crisis is particularly palpable but that should not stop you from visiting such an alluring country, which is also desperate for foreign currency .

This guide contains travel tips for Lebanon, as well as a complete itinerary.

Lebanon travel guide

In this Lebanon travel guide:

Table of Contents

  • Traveling during the crisis
  • Power shortages
  • Useful books
  • Travel insurance
  • Moving around
  • Day 1,2,3 – Beirut
  • Day 4 – Byblos
  • Day 5 – Zahlé
  • Day 6 – Baalbek  
  • Day 7, 8 – Tripoli
  • Day 9, 10 – Kadisha Valley
  • Day 11 – Sayda & Mleeta
  • Day 12 – Tyr
  • Day 13 – Go off-beat – Lebanese-Israeli separation wall
  • More Information

our recommended travel insurance for Lebanon

IATI Insurance is the most versatile insurance for any destination, including Lebanon.

🪪 Visa for traveling to Lebanon

Most nationalities can get a free 30-day visa on arrival at the airport in Beiru t , which is extendable for 2 additional months.

You just get an easy, friendly stamp, that’s it, and it’s valid for multiple entries.

Visa for Lebanon

💻 Internet and connectivity in Lebanon

Wi-Fi connection has improved over the last few years, but it’s still not the best, it tends to fail in most budget hotels, and that’s why I recommend buying a SIM Card.

One company I used was Alfa , their internet packages costing the equivalent of around 20USD.

Get a VPN for traveling in Lebanon

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Lebanon. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling .

Read: A travel guide to Palestine

💰 How to travel in Lebanon during the crisis

As mentioned, Lebanon is immersed in a hugely deep financial crisis, and below are the things that might affect you as a traveler.

1 – Need to know about money in Lebanon during the crisis

In Lebanon, the official currency is the Lebanese Pound (LBP) .

The official exchange rate versus US $ is 1 USD equals 1500LBP .

That’s the official (and old) bank rate. However, because of the crisis, the official rate in the black market is today:

1 USD = 27,000 LPB

The Lebanese pound has devalued more than 15 times its original value in just a few years, it’s absolutely crazy.

Lebanon travel tip – I recommend you download Lira Exchange on your smartphone, an app that gives you the current black market exchange rate.

However, for some reason, Lebanese banks like to keep the old rate.

This means that you should never ever use your credit card in Lebanon, never pay by card, and never withdraw from an ATM, never ever because you’ll get the old rate.

Lebanon is today a cash economy, bring all your money in cash, don’t use your credit card. In the hypothetical case you run out of money, ask someone to send you cash via Western Union or similar, but never without your debit card.

How to exchange money in the black market of Lebanon

They call it black market but basically, the black market for exchanging money in Lebanon is anywhere, including the official money exchange offices which can be found everywhere, especially along Hamra Street in Beirut.

Which currencies do they accept?

You can exchange Euros (€), US dollars, or British Pounds, among others.

If the Lebanese Pound has devalued more than 15 times, does that mean that everything is 15 times cheaper?

No. The currency devaluation has brought massive inflation too.

For example, before the crisis, a bottle of beer in a supermarket used to cost 1,500LBP. Today, you can buy it for 15,000LBP.

travel and more lebanon

2 – Need to know about power shortages in Lebanon

One of the biggest consequences of this unfortunate crisis for the Lebanese people is their shortage of electricity. When you travel in Lebanon, you’ll see that power cuts occur very often, every day.

As a traveler, if you only stay in fancy hotels and eat in top-end restaurants, the power cuts won’t really bother you, since pretty much all use powerful generators.

However, in cheaper hotels, as well as outside of Beirut, power cuts occur pretty often.

By the way, one top travel tip for Lebanon is not to order meat from certain cheap restaurants, since their fridge might not be always on due to the power cuts.

3 – Is it safe to travel to Lebanon during the economical crisis?

Lebanon has never come without its own issues but this has always been one of the safest countries in the Middle East , a country home to a huge cultural and religious diversity, where there’s never been a place for extremists.

In the last couple of years, however, since the unfortunate crisis started, many travelers are questioning the country’s safety, claiming that traveling to Lebanon isn’t safe anymore, but I strongly disagree.

Crime has always been pretty insignificant in Lebanon and, despite that many Lebanese are in urgent need of cash, it still remains low, and there are no travel reports telling otherwise.

Public demonstrations

Since the crisis started, the only place or moment of potential violence has been during the street protests. If you bump into a public demonstration, it’s recommended to stay away from it.

Moreover, one of the most tangible legacies of the Lebanese Civil War , is that many people in Lebanon have guns at their homes, and many still like to carry them outside of their respective houses.

Once, I took a shared taxi in Beirut , from Hamra to Burj Hamood, and one of the passengers was carrying a gun, yet, nobody seemed to care about it.

This is the reason why in most public demonstrations, some demonstrators have guns, and they tend to like shooting into the sky. Being around those people is, obviously, dangerous.

Traveling to Lebanon during the crisis

🛫 How to get to Lebanon

How to travel to lebanon by air.

The national airline in Lebanon is Middle East Airlines (MEA) , which has several connections across Europe and the Middle East.

Moreover, you can also fly to Beirut International Airport from Paris (Air France), Frankfurt (Lufthansa), Barcelona (Vueling), Istanbul (Turkish and Pegasus) and pretty much any country in the Middle East .

How to travel to Lebanon by land

Lebanon shares a border with Israel and Syria.

  • Traveling to Lebanon from Israel: The border with Israel has always been closed, not possible to cross it.
  • Traveling to Lebanon from Syria: It’s fully open and very easy to cross. We use it all the time for our group expeditions .

For more information, read my Syria travel guide .

How to travel to Lebanon by sea

Apparently, the ferry from Cyprus to the northern city of Tripoli isn’t running anymore but you can take a ferry from Tasucu, Port of Mersin (Turkey). However, there isn’t any reliable information online regarding departure timings so overlanders should just show up in Tasucu.

Travel reports are more than welcome 🙂

where to go in lebanon

📚 Useful books for traveling in Lebanon

Lebanon travel guide by bradt.

This is the most up-to-date travel guide to Lebanon. I am a Bradt Guides fan because all their guides are extremely insightful, both from a local perspective and also, because they give plenty of tips for independent travelers which help you easily plan your itinerary for Lebanon.

travel and more lebanon

Middle East Travel Guide by Lonely Planet

It has only one chapter about Lebanon but, at least, the information here is updated.

travel and more lebanon

🚑 Travel insurance for visiting Lebanon

Lebanon is one of those countries where you must travel with insurance, as it is a wild place where people drive crazily.

I recommend IATI Insurance  because:

  • Plans for all budgets.
  • Covers all countries in the Middle East, including Syria and Iraq
  • Full COVID coverage
  • It covers senior citizens too
  • Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount

🕌 The country: people & culture

For me, the highlight of traveling to Lebanon is by far, the Lebanese people.

However, I am not talking about their kindness and hospitality – since that would be falling into the classical cliché one can say about any country in the Middle East – but I am talking about the cultural diversity.

There’s no other country – at least that I am aware of – where there can be so many groups of people living in such a tiny space.

Shia, Sunni, Catholics, Orthodox and Druze, but also Armenians, Palestinians, and Syrians.

From Hezbollah areas to Christian districts inhabited by European-like people and Sunni women wearing the niqab , the cultural mix in Lebanon is so chaotically mixed that it can’t be defined as a whole, and that’s what Lebanon is about.

things to do in Tripoli

Which language do they speak in Lebanon?

The official language in Lebanon is Arabic.

English is widely spoken in Beirut among well-educated Lebanese, especially in the districts of Hamra and Gemmazyeh.

Outside of Beirut, English is less spoken.

French is also spoken among a tiny part of the Lebanese population.

🍲 Food in Lebanon

Lebanese food is a Mediterranean cuisine with influences from both the Middle East and the French colonial era and, as in Spain, Italy or Greece, olive oil is the base of any dish.

Typically, most restaurants serve mezza , an array of small dishes similar to the Spanish tapas, which includes both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.

From the classic  hummus,   kibbeh (a local steak tartar), kebabs and   syadye  (rice, fish, and almonds in a gravy sauce) to a tasty olive oil of the standard of any southern European country and a strong wine culture, Beirut is home to the best food in the entire region.

travel and more lebanon

Read: Iraqi Kurdistan travel guide

🛺 How to move around Lebanon

Everything in Lebanon can be reached in less than 2 or 3 hours.

Except for the northern mountains, where you might need to stay overnight, if you wanted, you can visit the entire country on different day trips from Beirut .

However, in order to enjoy all the places to their fullest, I really recommend spending some nights outside of the capital.

Traveling around Lebanon by public transportation

Lebanon is a very easy country to move around.

There are public buses and mini-vans going to almost every corner in the country from Beirut, where there are 2 main stations named Charles Helou and Cola Station . Charles Helou is ideal for traveling to the north, whereas Cola is to the South.

For more information about these 2 stations, check my Beirut Travel Guide and for more details about how to reach each city in Lebanon, check the Itinerary Section on this post .

Travel around Lebanon by taxi

If you can share the costs with other travelers, traveling by taxi around Lebanon is relatively cheap and pretty convenient, since most places can be reached from Beirut on a day trip.

One easy option would be calling an Uber, but I recommend getting in touch with a local taxi company. One I tried is located in Hamra street . They have fixed rates for going anywhere in Beirut.

Self-driving in Lebanon

You can also rent a car, no problem.

Just be aware, however, that the driving in Lebanon is pretty insane, but definitely not more than in Saudi Arabia , Iraq and any other country in the Middle East .

As per rental car companies, some travelers recommend a local company named Mike Rent a Car , but Hertz or Europcar are also available.

best Lebanon itinerary

📍 Lebanon travel guide: a 2-week itinerary

Here you will find the best itinerary for Lebanon.

It might be a bit challenging to include all of these places in just 2 weeks but, if you plan ahead, it is totally feasible.

Day 1, 2 – Beirut – The most liberal city in the Middle East

What can I say about Beirut that I haven’t said already?

The Lebanese capital is the most westernized and liberal city in the Middle East (outside of Israel), only comparable to Tehran and a city full of contrasts and owner of deep and interesting history.

Beirut is composed of several neighborhoods, each one with its own subculture, so different from each other that, when you are wandering around them, it looks like you are in a different city, from the hipster neighborhood of Gemmazyeh to Hezbollah areas, Armenian, Christian, refugee camps and fancy districts with the most glamorous stores and the best restaurants in the region.

For more information about Beirut, read my article: A travel guide to Beirut

travel and more lebanon

Where to stay in Beirut

Budget Hotel –   Embassy Hotel  – This is the cheapest hotel in town. The rooms are getting quite old but, at this price, you won’t find anywhere better. The location is great, however, in Hamra, a very cool area to hang out.

Backpacker Hostel –   Hamra Urban Gardens – Located in the main Hamra Street. It offers both suite and dorm rooms with a seasonal outdoor pool and bar.

Mid-range Hotel –  O Monot Boutique – Strategically located at the heart of Beirut, this property was highly recommended by many because of their amazing facilities especially their rooftop bar with a panoramic view of Beirut.

Top-end Hotel –  Radisson Blu Hotel – If you are looking for a comfortable place which has a delightful design, a good restaurant and other various facilities, this 5-star hotel is a perfect choice. Located in Dunes shopping center and 5-minute walk away from the beach.

Itinerary for Lebanon

Day 3 – Byblos – The native home of the modern alphabet

With 8,000 years of history, Byblos is considered one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and the place where the first inscriptions containing the modern western alphabet were found.

Byblos derives from the Greek word bublos , meaning papyrus , as the town was the stopping place for the Phoenicians who shipped papyrus from Egypt .

Besides a super interesting museum that explains the history of the creation of the alphabet, in Byblos you can also visit a crusader castle from the XII century, built by the Franks, a restored souq, a beautiful Mediterranean harbor full of restaurants, where you can eat seafood feasts, and some archeological sites containing mainly Roman ruins but also from many other civilizations, from the Neolithic settlements 8,000 years ago to Phoenician, Egyptian, Greek and Ottoman.

Book a tour to Byblos from Beirut It also includes Jeita & Harissa CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Byblos, Lebanon

How to get to Byblos from Beirut

Byblos is around 50km from Beirut. Buses depart from Charles Helou station.

Where to stay in Byblos

Byblos can be reached on a day trip from Beirut but, in case you wanna stay here, here’s a few options:

Budget Hotel – Sea Valley – The cheapest hotel in Byblos is a very decent aparthotel. 

Mid-range hotel – L’Hotel de mon pere – With stunning panoramic sea views and really awesome breakfast, this super pretty modern hotel serves the best quality in Byblos, at the lowest price. It is really close to the beach and even closer to the Old City of Byblos, so you can’t ask for more!

Top-end hotel – Byblos Sur Mer – This boutique hotel is at the most privileged location in the whole of Byblos, next to the ruins, on the seaside and at the heart of where the exquisite social life in Byblos is, which consists of eating at the seafood fancy restaurants that compose the harbor.

things to do in Lebanon

Day 4 – Zahlé – The face of Lebanon you didn’t know about

What I loved about Zahlé was that, even though it is a Lebanese city located in the heart of the Bekaa Valley, it is more similar to the villages of Mediterranean Europe than to Lebanon itself, as this city, with a Christian majority, is famous for its wineries and for its restaurants, serving the best mezza in the whole country.

In Zahlé, you can’t miss Berdawini , located just outside of the city, a green area with a river flowing, plenty of high-quality restaurants, slightly pricey for my taste but delicious.

When I went there, it was not only full of Lebanese people from the middle-upper class but also, there were plenty of Western diplomats escaping from Beirut for the weekend.

I also recommend you go to Ksara Winery , the oldest and most famous winery in the whole country.

I always prefer visiting small, traditional wineries, rather than big corporations (check my Kakheti travel guide ) but I have to admit that the wine I tasted here was excellent. Their tour was OK but there wasn’t any need to book it in advance.

Book a wine tour from Beirut which includes 3 different wineries in the Beqaa Valley CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

Wine tour Lebanon

How to get to Zahlé from Beirut

Zahlé is on the way to Baalbek, so you should first take a bus to a town named Chtoura. From there, you can get on a second bus to Zahlé.

I got it at Cola Station but there may be a direct bus from Charles Helou station.

Where to stay in Zahlé

There is no cheap accommodation in Zahlé: the most budget accommodation starts at 70USD, so if you are on a budget, you should spend the night in Baalbek or go back to Beirut.

Mid-range Apartment Hotel – Berdawni Apartments – This apartment-hotel is nothing outstanding but it really fulfills its function, with very comfy beds and the best location, right next to Berdwani river, the highlight in town. It is a good value money for money option and, in any case, you won’t find anything cheaper!

Top-end Hotel – La Place Hotel – Located in the old part of town, people love this hotel because it manages to combine the old and traditional with very modern facilities and exquisite decoration. The breakfast is great and they have the purest and kindest Middle Eastern service.

best places to visit in Lebanon

Day 5 – Baalbek – The most impressive and off-the-beaten-track Roman ruins

Lebanon travel tip – Pay the entrance ticket in Lebanese Pounds (LBP), not in USD, since they will give you the official bank rate, meaning that you’ll pay no more than 1 dollar to enter the site. Before the crisis, the entrance fee was $15

Visiting Baalbek is one of the best things to do in Lebanon, a city that has some impressive Roman ruins, built on a giant scale and often considered the most important in the Middle East and, controversially, one of the least visited off-the-beaten track Roman ruins in the world, even lesser visited than Palmyra in Syria , which used to receive hundreds of thousands of visitors before the war.

visit Baalbek

The temple of Jupiter and the temple of Bacchus are the buildings that dominate this stunning architectural masterpiece.

Seriously, these Roman ruins are just outstanding and, when I went there, I had the ruins completely to myself.

Book a tour to Baalbek from Beirut the easiest way to visit the site with no hassle CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE

How to get to Baalbek from Beirut 

Baalbek is 90km from Beirut.

From Cola Station, there are buses going to Chtoura, situated half-way, a town from where you should take a second bus to Baalbek.

Where to stay in Baalbek

Even though you can visit Baalbek on a day trip, I strongly recommend spending one night there to see the ruins at sunset time.

Budget Hotel  – Jammal Hotel – This is the most budget hotel in Baalbek but you can’t book it online. It is OK for 1 night. 

Mid-Range Hotel  –  Palmyra Hotel  – This is, perhaps, the most famous hotel in the country and the reason is that it has never been closed since it was opened in 1874. it has hosted famous people such as Nina Simeone and the President of France It is also located next to the Roman ruins. I personally think the hotel is absolutely overpriced, since there hasn’t been any renovation for decades.

what to do in Lebanon

Day 6 – Tripoli – The most traditional Lebanese city

Tripoli is the second biggest Lebanese city, a city that would probably fit in what you think are the Lebanese standards, with its beautiful old souq of spices, ancient medieval architecture, and a citadel from where you get fantastic views of the city.

In Tripoli, a city famous for its sweets, live the Lebanese people who have the famous Arabic hospitality, as it’s impossible to be wandering the streets, kind of lost, without several locals offering you their help.

This is a city to get lost in around its narrow alleys and an old city belonging to the XIV century.

Furthermore, you can’t miss the fortress of Raymond de Saint Gilles, built in the XI century and the lovely neighborhood around the harbor.

By the way, you probably heard that the U.S. Embassy describes Tripoli as a dangerous city to travel to. Why is that so? Since the Civil War, there have been one-off clashes between Sunni and Alawi Muslims who reside in the neighborhoods of Bab al-Tabbaneh and Jebel Mohsen, respectively. Throughout the years, these clashes have killed several people.

This is a one-off conflict happening in a specific area, far away from the city center. It’s a fight between two small districts and doesn’t go beyond.

The rest of the city is totally cool and safe. However, since I’m an extremely curious human being, I also went to Jebel Mohsen . And what can I say? Life there was merely normal. Again, clashes and bombings happen once a year, not more.

things to do in Tripoli, Lebanon

How to get to Tripoli from Beirut

Located 80km, there are buses leaving from Cola Station continuously, as well from Charles Helou.

Where to stay in Tripoli

There are very few options in Tripoli but these would be the most popular:

Budget Guest House –  Haddad Hotel– The facilities and rooms are very old but the staff is a lovely family that will give you a very charming welcome and a great, traditional breakfast. With an awesome location, close to the old city, this is the best place for budget travelers and backpackers. Online booking not available. 

Mid-range Hotel – Via Mina Hotel – Being the top rated hotel in Tripoli, Via Mina has a kind of rustic style but with very modern facilities at the same time. It is located right in front of the sea, has a great pool and the staff will bless you with great hospitality.

Beautiful places to visit in Lebanon

Day 9, 10 – Kadisha Valley – Lovely Christian mountain villages

If you either want just to relax, eat good food, visit beautiful Christian monasteries or to go hiking, the Kadisha Valley in Lebanon will always be the perfect place for you.

Kadisha means ”holy” and owes this name to the fact that this valley is home to some of the most ancient communities of monastic Christians  in the Middle East.

In case you don’t know, monasticism is a way of life for which the person (in this case Christian monks) renounces everything to devote himself completely to spiritual work.

The valley is full of natural caves, difficult to access, that once served as places of isolation for the monks living lives devoted to Christ.

travel and more lebanon

How to get to Kadisha from Tripoli (or Beirut)

If you come from Beirut, you will have to go to Tripoli first.

Once in Tripoli, there are buses leaving from 9am to a small village named Bsharri, which is a great base to explore the rest of the valley. For coming back, the last one is at 4:30pm.

Where to stay in Kadisha Valley (Bsharri)

Kadisha is one of those places where you really should spend one night at least, especially if you come by public transportation. Otherwise, you will just have 1 hour to explore it entirely.

Budget Guest House – Tiger Guest House – This is an ideal place for budget backpackers and, basically, the only cheap accommodation in town. Everything is very simple but the family is lovely and very helpful.

Mid-range Hotel – Bauhaus Chalets Apartment – Breathtaking views, a very accommodating owner, and pretty modern facilities, this hotel is pretty good, given the low range offer in Bsharri.

Travel guide to Lebanon

Day 11 – Sayda and Mleeta – Hezbollah territory

Sayda is a small city located 40km from Beirut. Slightly conservative, Sayda is a nice place to visit on a day trip, wandering around its labyrinthine, covered souq, full of cafés where the Lebanese are sitting outside, looking with expectation at the few foreigners that pass by.

Perhaps, the most iconic building in the city is the castle, built in the XII century, located on a tiny island just 80m from the shore, whose walls turn into a beautiful orange during the sunset.

Mleeta, the Museum of Hezbollah

A fantastic day trip from either Beirut or Sayda is visiting the Mleeta Museum, aka the Hezbollah Resistance Museum .

Hezbollah is a Shia militia and armed group created in Lebanon during the war against Israel.

They don’t like to be called militia, however, but they consider themselves a resistance organization against a common enemy named Israel.

The area around Mleeta was their headquarters and stronghold during the war and today, they have built an amazing museum where you can visit the underground tunnels they used to hide in, as well as some captured Israeli tanks and artillery.

The museum only costs a few $ and it includes a guided tour with a member of the militia.

While it’s true that his explanations are pure propaganda, the guides are open to absolutely any question, and they are actually very pleasant people. A must-see.

Mleeta Museum

How to get to Sayda from Beirut 

To get to the south of Lebanon, Cola Station is the best and only option.

Where to stay in Sayda

Sayda isn’t famous for its accommodation. To be honest, I didn’t stay here but came on a day trip from Beirut. In any case, if you plan to stay here, these are the most feasible options:

Budget / Mid-range Hotel – Yacoub Hotel – A very old hotel from 1920, Yacoub is located very close to the old city and the beach, the main city’s tourist attractions. However, many people have complained about cleanliness, especially because it is not a cheap hotel for what you get.

Mid-range Hotel – Al Qualaa Boutique Hotel – This boutique hotel isn’t bad but, for what you pay, the experience should be way better. The location is unbeatable, next to Sayda Old Fort and, overall, it is in a very cute building and the breakfast is just great. However, people complain about small details, like power cuts, the shower was not working and a large etcetera.

Saida, Lebanon

Day 12 – Tyre – Your beach destination in Lebanon

The most southern city in Lebanon, Tyre brags about being the place where you find the best beaches in the country.

In summer, every day, tons of Lebanese come from Beirut to spend the day and chill at its beaches and eat awesome seafood at the many restaurants that are found around the harbor.

In Tyre, you also find a castle, Roman ruins, a corniche, and a beautiful and colorful harbor, full of seafood restaurants.

How to get to Tyre from Beirut

Tyre is 90 kilometers from Beirut and buses leave from Cola Station.

However, you should first take a bus to Sayda and, from there, take the second one to Tyre.

Tyre, Lebanon

Where to stay in Tyre

In Tyre, accommodation is super expensive. I didn’t stay there but, if you are a beach lover and you can afford it, this is the most popular hotel:

Mid-range Hotel – Asamina Boutique Hotel – Tastefully furnished and with really cozy rooms and comfortable beds and located in the old city, very close to the sea, this is one of the best boutique hotels in the country. They serve an amazing traditional breakfast, with really fresh products and the staff are just extremely accommodating. I think this is the best option in Tyre, better than any of the other resorts, which kind of lack of personality and authenticity.

travel and more lebanon

Day 13 – Go off-beat – The wall that separates Lebanon from Israel

Both Lebanon and Israel have been in continuous war for several decades and, today, diplomatic relations between both countries don’t exist, since they still consider each other to be enemies. This is one of the most sensitive borders in the world.

These two Middle Eastern countries share a 79-kilometer border. For the most part, it is unreachable, as it’s located too far from the road. But I was told that there’s one area where you can actually get close to it. I liked the idea pretty much, so I decided to go there.

Visiting it is an adventure, as the whole area is full of military facilities and soldiers from the United Nations, who are guarding the border.

You need to be very cautious when visiting it. I was there by myself, with a camera, and I got arrested. If you wanna read my full story, check out this article: The day I was accused of being an Islamic State spy .

Please note that this is a Hezbollah area, which means that a permit is required . It’s very easy to obtain and you can get it at the police station in the city of Sayda.

They give it to you instantly but remember that a permit makes you eligible to enter the area and it doesn’t mean that you can take pictures or walk freely along the wall.

travel and more lebanon

How to get to the Wall from Beirut

Be aware that it is not recommended to get there by public transportation, as you will trigger the suspicion of the Hezbollah Army.

It is not about walking around the wall but just that tourists never go there, so seeing a dude wandering there by himself is kind of weird, according to their eyes.

As I said, I got arrested when I was there but, in part, it was because I had a camera hanging from my shoulder.

Going there on your is your own responsibility but, if you decide to go, here’s how to get there by public transportation.

From Beirut, go to Cola Station and take a bus to Sayda. From Sayda, take a bus to Nabatiyeh. In Nabatiyeh, you need to take a shared taxi towards Kfarkela. You have to drop off as soon as you see the wall. Please note that you may have to wait for over an hour for the taxi to be completely full.

❗ More information to complement your Lebanon itinerary

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Lebanon destination

  • Beirut Travel Guide
  • Solo Female Travel Guide in Lebanon
  • The day I was accused of being an Islamic State spy
  • Is Lebanon Safe

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

  • Iran Travel Guide
  • Iraq Travel Guide
  • Travel Guide to Oman
  • Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
  • Syria Travel Guide
  • Palestine Travel Guide
  • Yemen Travel Guide

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East .

Lebanon itinerary

58 comments

Wow, Lebanon looks beautiful! I like the mix of elements it seems to have based on your photos. I’ve always been a fan of the food too 😉

Hey Shannon, thanks for your comment. It’s a very underrated country and, the mix of elements you say, is what makes the country great ;9 ª

I am Lebanese!!! And i’m so happy you enjoyed your trip to Lebanon

Really? That’s awesome! It’s one of my favorite countries 🙂 !

I’m so glad I just stumbled on your blog. I am a Syrian/Lebanese American traveling to Lebanon for the first time in a few days. I have family in a village east of Tripoli named Aalma, I have yet to locate them but I do know that is where my family came from before migrating to the US. I will be spending a week traveling across Lebanon, a journey I have dreamt of for a long time coming.

Not to keep you for too long but I wanted to thank you for shedding light on Lebanon. A country which is mistakenly given a bad reputation due to strict travel warnings from my government.

Hey man! That’s amazing that you are going on a trip to Lebanon to know more about where your family comes from. Are you going to stay with some relatives? Please, do let me know if I can help you with anything. Cheers,

Hey, do you think I can show up at the cheap hotels in Tripoli and Baalbek and there will be a room available? By the way when you speak about Zahlé you say it’s called Berdawini but it’s Berdawni.

Hard to say, man. I went during low season and one of the hotels in Baalbek was fully booked… If there’s the option, I would book in advance!

Wanting to travel to Lebanon do many people speak English? Do I need a guide? If so what’s the charge. And where is the airport? Close to what country

Hi Linda. Most educated people speak English. You don’t necessarily need a guide, it’s up to you. The airport is in Beirut.

Amazing Joan. What a special place.

Is it possible to arrive by boat from Cyprus? And how much is a visa?

Yes, it’s possible and visa is free

Hey i am planning a one week Lebanon. Is it possible to cover all the famous destinations within one week?

Hi, maybe you could cover Beirut, Baalbek, Byblos and Tripoli, yes, why not.

Can all these be done as day trips? The hotel in Tripoli is expensive.

hi, do you think having my wedding in LEBANON (BERUIT) is a good idea/

Sure, why not 🙂 ?

Hello there,

Your blog about Lebanon is really great ! My parents are lebanese and Im going there for the 1st time this summer. I really liked your itinerary. I was wondering if we needed a private driver to go from one place to another when we leave Beirut, since there isn’t really public transportations outside of Beirut. For example, I want to visit the cedars, and I would also like to go from byblos to Baalbek. Cheers!

Hello! There is public transportation all over the country, you don’t need to worry about anything. Only to the cedars, you may need to hire a taxi, including the taxi. In the article itself I give plenty of transportation tips, like how to get from each city to the other

Hey Joan Thanks for your blog! I enjoyed reading it. I’m going to Lebanon for eight days, so far I plan to stay in Beirut for three nights, nearby Chouwen lake for two nights and then to Byblos and/or Tripoli. Do you think I’m trying to cram too much in? I’d love to hear any thoughts you might have on that plan. Thanks

Hi Madeline, 8 days is good enough for what you want to visit and I think you can even visit both Byblos and Tripoli, spending 1 night in each.

we are looking for a great in -Lebanon travel organiser to essentially fix all elements of our trip for us. Maybe not the flight from the UK but everything else. 8-10 days. Can you recommend either the best local company for that or even one based here in the UK looking to come in either May or October.

Many thanks for this blog.

Hi Keith, I don’t know about any specific travel agency for Lebanon, sorry. I did everything independently

Fab information! Do you know if having a Lebanese stamp in your passport will stop you from entering any countries – and if so, which?

Thanks! Emily

Hey Emily, no, it won’t stop you from going anywhere. Please, refer to this for more information: https://againstthecompass.com/en/avoid-israeli-passport-stamp/

Hi there, I enjoyed reading your blog. We’re going to Lebanon from the UK for two weeks in October. We’re planning on spending a week in Beirut, and maybe three nights in Byblos and Batroun. Does this seem a good way to divide our time? Thanks!

Hi Ellbin, it’s all right, but try to save one day for going to Baalbek at least!

Hi Joan, Just a few questions as you seem pretty familiar with the middle east. Will it be an issue entering Israel with visas from Sudan, Kurdistan and Syria? Am planning a trip to cover Lebanon, Israel and Jordan early next year and am considering adding on Kurdistan or Syria. Any ideas on itineraries. Will have to do at least one flight from Kurdistan and also from Lebanon to Jordan if not crossing through Syria.

Hi Melody! I suggest you check out this post 🙂 https://againstthecompass.com/en/avoid-israeli-passport-stamp/

Hi! I just booked my tickets to go to Lebanon in September. I’ll stay there for 2 weeks! I’ll spend about one week in Beirut (visiting some places from there), and then I’ll explore the Q. Valley and do lots of hiking. Thanks SO much for this information, it’s been very helpful! I also love the Middle East. I’m getting ready to go to Israel (second time) with my kids :). We’ll spend more time in the North this time. Blessings!!!

Thank you, Laura, have a great time in Lebanon!

Hi Joan, I read your blog and a couple of others and booked a trip to Lebanon a couple of months ago and was really exited. However, I have just read that if you have the exit stamp into Jordan on your passport you won’t get passed border control (even when flying from the UK) in Beirut. We went to Israel and Jordan in 2018 so I have the entry, exist and “residence for one month” stamps in my passport. Do I need to cancel my trip? We are due to leave on Sunday so I’m not really concerned we won’t be able to go. Thanks, Alex

P.S. I have already read your blog “avoid Israeli stamp” but there was only one stamp on the passport photo in this blog. We have two which I assume is entry and exit as we left and then returned to Israel. Surely these would be the stamps you would get if you entered and exited the country from anywhere?

Where did you enter and exit from, via airport or by land?

Hi Alex, a Jordanian stamp is fine but you won’t get into Lebanon with an Israeli stamp. Just change your passport, report it lost or something, probably cheaper than cancelling your trip.

Hi, please advise if it is still safe to go to Tripoli, I supposed to meet my engaged and get married there next month…I will wait for him at Beirut airport and then go to tripoli….

Yes, Tripoli is very safe

I’ve been to Lebanon a year ago and agree with most of what is said, except for food and accommodation because I was hidted by locals.

Naqoura and the very South are a gem undisturbed by big hotel complexes. A permit us indeed needed but not because it’s un Hezbollah territory but because it’s UNIFIL zone. You do have to get it in Salida but it takes a while and the process is quite opaque. Plan in advance if you can

Sorry about the typos, I should have read before posting.But I guess the text can be understood. And it’s Saida, not Salida, of course

Dear Joan, Thank you for your excellent information on Lebanon. A remark and a question: – The text of LEBANON TRAVEL GUIDE: A 2-WEEK ITINERARY appears only in Spanish (English flag not working) – Is it OK to get visum at Beirut Airport if passport contains stamp from Iran? Thanks.

Thanks for telling me, I really appreciate it. It’s been fixed now 🙂

Yes, no problem to enter Lebanon if you have an Iranian visa or stamp.

Hello Joan, This is a request that I take the liberty to put on your blog. As part of a master class in photojournalism with the National Geographic magazine I am looking for a ‘story’ in Beirut. For this I need to find a local guide to ‘develop’ this story. To show me around Beirut, make the contacts etc. Not so much the tourist sites but the life itself, after the explosion. I would be very grateful for your suggestions.

Thanks for the info. As of Oct. 29, a Covid test is no longer required.

Many thanks for an excellent blog post! Great to know about bringing currency to exchange before visiting Lebanon. I am visiting Lebanon for the first time in May for two weeks. I intend on booking a hostel online in Beirut to base myself for day trips for the first week and then go hiking around Kadisha Valley and spending time around Baalbek before flying onwards.

My question is – approximately how much $US/day would you recommend bringing over with you? I plan on staying in hostels/budget hotel, using public transport where possible and doing a bit of solo hiking. Just wanted to know a ballpark figure so that I don’t find myself short and have to use my debit or credit card and deal with the terrible exchange rate offered by the banks.

Hi Sam! I think you need around $50 a day, so I’d bring the equivalent of 70 a day, just in case! But it’s always hard to say. There are so many restaurants and night bars in Beirut, so you also need to think about that!

I was thinking about this itinerary, private tour, two people, hotel 3/4 only breakfast, if is possible italian speaking guide: 1 arrival beirut 2 beirut 3 Jeita Grottoes – Harissa – Byblos 4 Tripoli-Ehden 5 Valley of the Cedars – Baalbek -Zahle 6 Anjar – Beittedine – Deir al Qamar 7 Tire – Sidon 8 Beirut – Italy Greetings. Ilario giacometti

Thank you so much for this fantastic post! I was wondering how late are the last buses from places like Byblos and Baalbek since most of the hotels are expensive/booked out? Thanks again for making such a great page!!!

Hi Dhruv, I am not entirely sure, maybe around 7pm?

Hola Joan. Gracias por tu gran e interesante y profesional información de tu blog. De todos los países que visitas En cuanto a Líbano.. no es conveniente llevar euros? Se usa más dolares? Gracias

Hola Poli, en general, puedes cambiar de euros a libras libanesas sin problema alguno.

Sin embargo, hay hoteles que solo aceptan pago en efectivo y en dólares.

Lo que resulta mejor es llevarlo todo en euros y para el hotel, cambiarlos allí mismo a dólares. La tasa que ofrecen es mucho mejor que si compras dólares en Europa.

Lo que yo hago es llevar todo en euros, y lo cambio todo a libras o a dólares.

Hi, I´ve seen some comments and foregin governments advising not to go to Baleek. Is there any threat of doing this? Seems like a very touristic place. Going to Lebanon in october.

Hi Simon, it’s fine, it’s just that in that region there’s been local issues related to drug trafficking

Hi this is an awesome resource thanks so much for putting it together. Just wondering what the weather is like in October ( first couple of weeks). Want to go when it’s hot. Thanks

October is autumn, not super hot but pleasant

Hi, Do you still recommend going to Lebanon in March?

Beirut and more north than that should be fine to travel

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travel and more lebanon

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Warnings and insurance

travel and more lebanon

The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office ( FCDO ) provides advice about risks of travel to help British nationals make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice .

 Areas where FCDO advises against travel

Your travel insurance could be invalidated if you travel against FCDO advice. Consular support is also severely limited where FCDO advises against travel.

FCDO advises against all travel to Lebanon. If you are currently in Lebanon we encourage you to leave now while commercial options remain available.

For further information on why we advise against travel, see the ‘Conflict affecting Lebanon’ and Regional risks.

Departure from Lebanon

Events in Lebanon are fast moving. The situation has potential to deteriorate quickly and with no warning.

Commercial routes out of Lebanon could be severely disrupted or cancelled at short notice and roads across the country could be closed.  If you are currently in Lebanon, we encourage you to leave now while commercial options remain available .

Travel within or out of Lebanon is at your own risk. The FCDO cannot tell you whether it is safe to travel to any departure point within Lebanon. However, see safety and security   for information on known security risks in Lebanon and advice on how to keep yourself safe.

Make sure you have correct and up-to-date travel documents, including a  passport  and  visa  if necessary, for yourself and anyone travelling with you, even if they are not British nationals.

Check our travel advice for any neighbouring country that you are planning to travel to or through.

In the event of deterioration in the political or security situation, the British embassy may be increasingly limited in the assistance that it can provide. Do not rely on  FCDO  being able to evacuate you in an emergency.

Read FCDO advice on what to do  if you’re affected by a crisis abroad and how to prepare.

If you cannot leave Lebanon

You should have a personal emergency plan that does not rely on the UK government and be prepared in case you need to leave quickly. However, if you cannot leave Lebanon, you should shelter in place if you judge it necessary and safe to do so.

See safety and security and regional risks for information on known security risks in Lebanon and advice on how to keep yourself safe. You should sign up to get email notifications when this travel advice is updated.

Conflict affecting Lebanon

FCDO  advises against all travel to Lebanon due to risks associated with the conflict between Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories. There are ongoing mortar and artillery exchanges and airstrikes in Lebanon, primarily on the boundary with Israel but also elsewhere in the country. Online maps may provide a useful guide to recently affected areas. Tensions are high and events could escalate with little warning, which could affect or limit exit routes out of Lebanon.

There is also a risk of civil unrest. There have been large protests outside embassies, including outside the US and French embassies on 17 October. Further protests are expected. British nationals should exercise caution and avoid areas where demonstrations may be held.

The embassy is continuing with essential work including services to British nationals.

Follow and contact FCDO travel on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram . You can also get email notifications when this travel advice is updated.

Help and support in Lebanon

You can contact the emergency services by calling 112.

If you need urgent help (for example, you’ve been attacked, arrested or someone has died), call +961 (0)1 960 800.

If you’re in Lebanon and you need advice which is not covered by reading our travel advice, you can contact FCDO online .

While 24-hour consular assistance is available by phone or online, in-person consular support is severely limited in parts of Lebanon where we advise against all travel and limited where we advise against all but essential travel.  

If you’re abroad and you need emergency help from the UK government, contact the nearest British embassy, consulate or high commission .

Travel insurance 

If you choose to travel, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance . Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency.

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What’s it Really Like to Travel Lebanon?

Adventurous Kate contains affiliate links. If you make a purchase through these links, I will earn a commission at no extra cost to you. Thanks!

When I decided to travel Lebanon, I had little idea what to expect. There’s not a ton of information on the web, and very few travel bloggers have traveled there or written about it.

It was a bit of a question mark. But that was exactly what I wanted.

My mission has always been to show women how to travel the world safely. At the same time, though, I’ve always felt the urge to be a bit different — to write about places that don’t get the same coverage. In 2010, that meant doing an extended trip exclusively in Southeast Asia (believe it or not, that was very unusual back then!). In 2018, that meant exploring places like Lebanon when every other blogger seems to focus on massively overtouristed destinations like Iceland, Bali, and Barcelona.

And so I went to Lebanon in May 2018. I treated the trip like a fact-finding mission and spent a week exploring the small country as much as possible, experiencing what it’s like to travel Lebanon as a woman on her own so I could share the results with all of you.

So, what’s Lebanon actually like? I’m glad you asked.

travel and more lebanon

Is Lebanon Safe?

Lebanon is much safer than people think it is, not unlike many destinations in the Middle East.  The media paints the image of war, suicide bombers, and riots, but this is nothing like what you would see in Lebanon (or the vast majority of the Middle East) today.

Lebanon has had wars in the past…like from 1975 to 1990. As in it ended when George H. W. Bush was president. More recently, a 34-day war took place in 2006 between Hezbollah and Israeli Defense Forces. That was 12 years ago, when George W. Bush was president. There hasn’t been a war in the 12 years since.

The violence that happens in Lebanon today is random and somewhat rare — not unlike mass shootings in the United States. I would argue that Lebanon is far safer than the US in this regard, as there are far fewer guns in Lebanon and there are checkpoints and military personnel everywhere.

So what does Lebanon actually feel like? It feels peaceful. It feels normal. It feels quite a bit like traveling in the southern Balkans, actually — between the Mediterranean setting, war scars in the distant past, and hovering the line between developing and developed. Not once did I ever feel remotely in danger.

I took safely seriously. I didn’t travel to refugee camps or the unsafe far northeast of the country just for the hell of it, and after hearing mixed reviews from locals, I decided to nix Tripoli, which in retrospect was probably excessively cautious.

This post by Against the Compass is an excellent resource for travel safety in Lebanon. It’s updated periodically with the latest safety information. I encourage you to save it and take a closer look before your trip.

I also recommend checking out the  US State Department travel advisory and UK travel safety advice  for Lebanon. I find that the US warnings tend to be more alarmist, while the UK warnings tend to be more realistic.

Most importantly, travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — and to anywhere else in the world, frankly. If you need to be hospitalized with a broken bone or appendicitis, or if you have an emergency and miss your trip, or if you get robbed on a bus, travel insurance will help you recoup your financial losses. I use and recommend World Nomads .

travel and more lebanon

Lebanon is a small country.

Almost everywhere in Lebanon can be reached within 2.5 hours of driving from Beirut. For that reason, I found it most efficient to base myself in Beirut and take day trips from there.

But beyond the convenience, Beirut is such a cool city. Most Middle Easterners consider it to be the most sophisticated city in the region, not least because it’s far more liberal than other parts of the Middle East. I was there during Ramadan and people were still drinking and partying in the streets. (In Dubai, you can’t even eat in public during Ramadan.)

Beirut is home to epic clubs, like B-108, a former bunker where the roof retracts and you dance beneath the stars. You can spend the days sunning yourself at beach clubs with pools or shopping in luxury at the souks. And yes, hipster neighborhoods exist in Beirut — check out Mar Mikhael, or specifically, Gourad/Armenia Street, which is full of tons of cool restaurants and bars.

I stayed at the Radisson Blu Martinez , which is a nice, if somewhat dated, hotel and is in a central location in the Hamra neighborhood. I paid around $75 per night.

Find deals on hotels in Beirut here .

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Lebanon has little travel infrascture.

One thing that sets Lebanon apart from more popular Middle Eastern destinations like Israel, Jordan, Egypt, and the UAE is that there’s much less travel infrastructure. What does that mean?

There are hotels, but they’re more oriented toward business and domestic travelers. Transportation around the country is limited. There is essentially one company with that does day tours around the country and has a web presence. ONE COMPANY. And if you think you’re going to find a tourism office in each town you visit, you’re crazy.

Hell, Lonely Planet doesn’t even have a Lebanon guidebook — just a Lebanon chapter in the Middle East guidebook (which I downloaded to keep on my phone, and I recommend you get it for your trip, too).

That means that travel planning is more of a challenge, and most of your traveling will be amongst locals. That’s one reason why I don’t think Lebanon is a good country for newbie travelers, only more experienced ones.

Most of the other tourists I met in Lebanon were from Europe or other parts of the Middle East. I also met several expats from other countries who were based in Dubai.

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Lebanon has outstanding Roman ruins.

If you love Ancient Rome in the least, you must check out two outstanding sets of ruins: Baalbek and Anjer. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Beqaa Valley. The Jupiter Temple at Baalbek is one of the largest Roman temples on the planet. You don’t appreciate the true scale of it until you’re standing in the middle of it!

Also notable are the ruins of Tyre and Byblos, both of which are perched beautifully on the Mediterranean. Both of those are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, too. Basically, if you’re into ruins, you’ll have a great time in Lebanon.

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The driving in Lebanon is INSANE.

A lot of countries have crazy driving, which shouldn’t come as a surprise to a seasoned traveler. Lebanon is yet another one of them.

I always describe crazy driving in other countries as either Vietnamese-style or Maltese-style. In Vietnam, the driving is crazy, but the drivers all follow an established set of (somewhat ludicrous) rules. In Malta, the driving is reckless with no regard for any drivers or pedestrians. In my opinion, Lebanon falls into the Vietnamese category — it’s chaotic, but everyone is on the same page.

For this reason, I don’t recommend driving in Lebanon unless you are an expert driver who relishes driving in crazy environments. We all have a friend who is into challenging driving — this is their place to shine. If that’s not you, I urge you not to drive in Lebanon. You’ll leave with far fewer gray hairs as a result.

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Red roses bloom everywhere in Lebanon.

That’s just a lovely perk of traveling in Lebanon. I doubt this happens year-round, but my trip in late May and early June was resplendent with roses. (Related: the rose emoji is very popular in the Arabic-speaking world. Think of it as the Middle East’s “100.”)

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Lebanon is both very Middle Eastern and very European.

Lebanon wears many identities at once.  You’ll find mosques and churches practically next door to each other in Beirut. Some Lebanese people speak French and dress western-style, while others speak only Arabic and dress as their ancestors have for centuries. There is also a huge Armenian community in Beirut.

Byblos (Jbeil), for example, felt very European. With the fancy boats, high-end restaurants, and women in sundresses, their long hair flowing, it felt almost literally like Trogir, Croatia, or Budva, Montenegro. Only the souk would tip you off that you were in the Middle East.

But on the bus to Tyre (Sour), women were totally covered up and none spoke any English. That felt much more like Amman or central Turkey. It’s amazing that you can have both of these kinds of experiences within a short drive of Beirut — or even without leaving Beirut!

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The Cedars of Lebanon still exist — but they’re a fraction of what they once were.

The Cedars of God are some of the most famous trees in the world. In ancient times, endless forests grew over the mountains in Lebanon. The trees were lauded for their strength and used for shipbuilding and later railroad-building.

But over time, deforestation took the trees away from us, and there are very few left today. I went to see the Cedars of God park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I almost wish I hadn’t gone — it just left me feeling so sad to see so few cedars left.

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Hezbollah controls some territory in Lebanon.

Hezbollah is classified as a terrorist organization by several governments, including the US and EU, and they control some of the land in the eastern part of the country, including the Beqaa Valley. This includes the ruins of Baalbek and Anjer.

This might sound scary on the surface, and there has been violence in this region in the past, but for the most part, it’s a peaceful place to visit today. I visited on a tour (though you can also visit with a hired driver) and we went through several checkpoints, as is customary in Lebanon, but beyond that you wouldn’t notice any difference.

There was one strange thing, though — the yellow Hezbollah flag was for sale everywhere. It was like a souvenir. I did not partake.

To keep an eye on current developments in the Beqaa Valley and other regions in Lebanon, I recommend following this map .

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Lebanon has lots of day trips from Beirut.

There are three primary ways to travel around Lebanon:

  • Hire a driver.
  • Take a group tour.
  • Take public transportation.

I decided to try all three of these over the course of my trip.

Hiring a private driver is the best-case scenario because it allows you to time your visits for photography and you’re not on anyone else’s schedule. However, it’s also the most expensive. Most private driver rates start at $185 per day; I was once offered $150 per day; you may be able to bring it down to $100 per day if you have a Lebanese friend who “knows a guy” (and most Lebanese do). That was more than I wanted to spend as a solo traveler.

Because of that, I decided to just use Uber to get myself to Jeita Grotto and Byblos and back to Beirut. There was no wifi at Jeita Grotto (and I had no SIM card), so I bargained a ride with a local to get from the grotto to Byblos. Later, took awhile to find an Uber driver willing to pick me up in Byblos, but I eventually got one!

Here are some of the most popular tours:

  • Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara — I did this tour and recommend it. See two sets of ruins (Anjar and Baalbek) that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, then go wine tasting in Ksara.
  • Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya — I did this tour and recommend it if you want to see the Cedars and/or a lot of mountain scenery; otherwise, I don’t think it’s essential. Know that the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Cedars park is tiny, but a nice walk. Bcharré is home to an unremarkable Gibran museum but a GORGEOUS view; Kozhaya is home to a very cool monastery carved into the rocks.
  • Byblos, Jeita Grotto and Harissa — I visited Byblos and Jeita Grotto via Uber/taxi but skipped Harissa. I don’t think it’s necessary to do this as a group tour; it’s close to Beirut. I preferred doing my own thing and having time to explore. Byblos is a gorgeous village home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Harissa has outstanding views down to the coast, and Jeita Grotto is home to glorious cave systems underground (and no photography is allowed).
  • Tyre, Sidon and Maghdouche — I visited Tyre via public transportation and could have easily added Sidon as well; I don’t think this one is necessary to do as a group tour. Tyre is a great little city home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Sidon is famous for its souks and Sea Castle, and Maghdouche has some great views.
  • There’s also an Anjar, Baalbek and Kozhaya tour that combines the ruins of the Beqaa Valley with the Cedars in a slightly longer trip. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have done it to give myself an extra day.

As for public transportation, I would have done much more of it if I had known how easy it would be! I simply got an Uber to the minibus station (Cola Intersection), asked for “Sour?” (the Arabic name for Tyre), and got pointed to a bus.

There are some unwritten rules for taking minibuses in Lebanon: ask for the bus you need; the first two rows are unofficially reserved for women; men do not sit next to women unless there’s nowhere else to sit; tell the driver when to stop and pay him on the way out. Women should dress more conservatively (long sleeves and pants) and wear headphones if you don’t want to talk to anyone.

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Solo female travel in Lebanon is safe and wonderful.

This was the most pleasant surprise in Lebanon — that I received so much respect.  I didn’t know what to expect and was on my guard.

I took the bus from Beirut to Tyre, and I was told by my friend beforehand that the front two rows are unofficially reserved for women, and men don’t sit next to women unless there’s no other room. Well, there wasn’t any room on the way back from Tyre, which made me nervous. But the man who sat next to me left a good six inches between us on the seats.

Can you believe that? Men in New York won’t even close their legs on the subway, aggressively spreading out as much as they can. Lebanon almost made me cry with happiness.

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: A Guide

I also didn’t get stared at, which blew my mind. As a white woman traveling solo, I’m used to being stared at in the Middle East and many other places in the world.

It helped that I dressed more conservatively for the most part, including covering to my elbows, neck, and ankles in more conservative areas, though you could get away with wearing more revealing clothing in Beirut and Byblos.

I must include that Lebanon wasn’t perfect — just as I was marveling about what a good time I was having in Tyre, a man rode by on a bicycle and made kissing noises at me. Well. That happens pretty much everywhere in the world except Japan, so it shouldn’t be surprising. I get harassed three times on the walk home from the subway. It’s part of life as a woman.

Altogether: harassment was minimal, and I was grateful for that.

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Lebanese food is DELICIOUS.

Middle Eastern food is outstanding — and Lebanon is often said to have the best food in the region.   As soon as I arrived, the first dish I had to have was some moutabal (roasted eggplant and tahini dip) with some mint lemonade.

Lebanon’s cuisine is based on mezze — small plates. You’ll definitely have pita with hummus, falafel, baba ghanouj, tabbouleh, grape leaves, pickled vegetables — and I won’t lie, often French fries. Next up is often a variety of roasted meats, especially lamb or goat or chicken, or seafood if you’re on the coast, with rice or vegetable dishes, or delicious stews. And the coffee is potent, served in tiny cups.

Almost everything that I had in Lebanon was delicious, whether it was a streetside shwarma in Tyre or a plate of square-cut, oil-drenched grilled calamari in Byblos.

Lebanon is also a fantastic destination for vegetarians and vegans.  You can always plenty of delicious plant-based options.

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Lebanon has good wine, too.

Lebanon is one of very few Middle Eastern countries where you’ll find a decent wine scene. If you visit the ruins at Baalbek or Anjer, whether on a tour or with a private driver, it’s common to stop at a winery on the way back. We visited Chateau Ksara as part of our Baalbek/Anjer tour, and I would recommend it to others. Enjoy it!

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You can go skiing and hit the beach in the same day in Lebanon.

I don’t even ski, but this is something I want to do sometime — go skiing and hit the beach in the same day just because I can . Lots of destinations brag that you can do this — Southern California, Slovenia, Andalusia — and Lebanon is yet another.

Don’t expect the slopes to be on par with Colorado, but there are a number of ski resorts around the country. Then come down to lie on the beach in Byblos or Tyre or at a beach club in Beirut. Just because you can!

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Lebanese people are amazing.

People are amazing everywhere, though. I believe that everywhere in the world is made up of 98% wonderful people and 2% assholes. Most people are good people, and if they’re not, they’re probably having a rough day. Lebanon was no exception: I was warmly welcomed everywhere I went.

Arabic hospitality is legendary, though, and I was spoiled again and again by new Lebanese friends I met on my trip. Nobody would let me pay for a thing! It blew my mind.

I bought an orange juice from this mother and son pictured above, and even though they spoke no English and I spoke about five words of Arabic, we tried to communicate with each other as best we could, laughing like crazy. I’m pretty sure they tried to set me up with her older son, showing me Instagram photos of him perched in front of scenic overlooks, a dramatic pout on his face. (This happens a lot when you travel solo!)

To my great surprise, I was constantly asked if I was here visiting family. When I said no, people were often shocked. “But your parents are Lebanese?” they would ask me. (Come to think of it, when I was in Jordan in 2011, my guide Ibrahim told me I couldn’t pass for Jordanian, but I looked like I had one Lebanese parent.) And I feel like I met a ton of people who looked like me in Lebanon. Far more than usual.

Being ethnically ambiguous is hugely beneficial on my travels — I’m able to blend in far more easily than an Irish redhead could. But that has also led to wonderful experiences, where locals have claimed me as one of their own, declaring that their blood must run through my veins — “Look at your eyes! Look at your nose! You’re obviously one of us!”

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Lebanon is best for experienced travelers.

I’ll be completely honest here: I would not recommend Lebanon to novice travelers unless you have contacts here, family here, or people willing to host you. It’s a beautiful country, a friendly country, and an interesting country, but it’s not an easy or obvious country in which to travel.

Let me give you an example: when on the minibus back from Tyre, the driver got to Beirut, got sick of the traffic, and decided he just wanted to drop me off in the middle of a major intersection. Lovely. I had to figure out how to cross a multi-lane street, how to flag down a totally-not-official taxi, meaning some random guy in a random car (I had no SIM card, therefore no Uber), and get back to my place from there. Not that hard for a seasoned traveler, but I wouldn’t want to send a newbie traveler into a situation like that!

At the same time, Lebanon is awesome, but it’s not a showstopper.  In my opinion, the true showstopper of the Middle East is Jordan. Lebanon whispers rather than sings at the top of its lungs, and sometimes that’s exactly what I want in a destination.

If you’re going to the Middle East for the first time, I still recommend Jordan above all. Jordan has the best mix of safety, outstanding cultural sites, natural beauty, a wide variety of things to do, and infrastructure for travelers. I think it outdoes Lebanon on almost every level, though I think Beirut is a much cooler city than Amman.

Jordan: The Perfect Introduction to the Middle East

But if you’ve already done some travel in the Middle East and you’re looking for an interesting new destination, and especially if you’re looking for a cool major city, Lebanon is a fabulous choice for you.

And at this point in time, it’s still a relatively offbeat destination. In an age where everyone is going to Iceland and Bali and Barcelona, Lebanon makes a nice change from everyone else in your Instagram feed.

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Lebanon pairs well with some destinations — and poorly with others.

One reason why I visited Lebanon was because I was planning to visit Cyprus, pictured above, and the two countries are only a 45-minute flight apart. It was natural to pair them together! The two countries have so much in common in some ways, but are completely different in others.

I flew to Beirut from Amsterdam via Istanbul on Pegasus Airlines, which makes Turkey a great destination to combine with Lebanon. Thanks to direct flights, you can easily combine Lebanon with a trip to Jordan, Egypt, or the UAE.

However, Lebanon does not pair well with Israel. You can’t visit Lebanon if you have evidence of Israel or the Palestinian Territories in your passport (and even though Israeli officials often don’t stamp your passport, Lebanese officials look for exit stamps from Jordan or Egypt). Israel will let you in with a Lebanon stamp, but expect to be grilled about your visit.

How to get around this? Fly into Israel and don’t let them stamp you. Or renew your passport before going to Lebanon. Or get a second passport, if your country allows you to do so (the US does). Or just visit Israel after Lebanon.

More on Lebanon:

13 Stunning Places to Visit in Lebanon

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: Is it Safe?

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Essential Info: For my trip I bought the Lebanon chapter in Lonely Planet’s Middle East guidebook , which I downloaded on my phone and found very useful.

In Lebanon I stayed at the  Radisson Blu Martinez  in Beirut, which was a quality, if dated, hotel and was centrally located in the Hamra neighborhood. Rates from $75. Find deals on more Beirut hotels here and see all Beirut Airbnbs here .

In Beirut and sometimes beyond (as far as Byblos), I used Uber to get around. It was cheap and easy. I recommend getting a SIM card if you can; I didn’t and it made it impossible to summon Ubers when I didn’t have wifi.

During my trip I took three tours: the Free Walking Tour of Beirut (remember to tip your guide), a paid day trip to  Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya , and a paid day trip to  Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara . I traveled independently via public minibus to Tyre via Sidon (Saïda) and via Uber and taxi to Jeita Grotto and Byblos.

Bring good shoes to Lebanon. I have bad arches and live in comfy but cute shoes from The Walking Company . I strongly recommend black ABEO flats , which have fantastic arch support. I wore them every day in Lebanon. You might also like a pair of black boots  if you’re visiting in the chillier months.

Bring a crossbody purse that zips to keep your belongings close and safe. Amazon has lots of affordable options . If you want to spend more, Rebecca Minkoff makes some of the best . You can also check out my guide to the best travel purses .

Travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — whether you trip on the steps at Baalbek’s temples and break your ankle, or get robbed on a bus in Beirut, or if you have to cancel your trip due to an emergency, travel insurance will sort you out. I use and recommend World Nomads .

Have you traveled to Lebanon? Does it seem like your kind of destination?

25 Practical Things You Should Know Before Traveling to Lebanon

25 Practical Things You Should Know Before Traveling to Lebanon

Lebanon, the tiny country in the Middle East, locked in by their neighbors Israel and Syria. Is it even safe to be traveling to Lebanon? Can you travel to Lebanon as a solo female traveler? I just got back from an amazing trip to Lebanon and the country surprised me more than I thought it would.

Lebanon is a complex country with multi-layered communities, varied landscapes, different languages, and amazing experiences! Here are 25 things you should know before traveling to Lebanon.

I paid for everything in full myself. I was not paid or sponsored. All my opinions and experiences are my own.

Probe around the Globe does use affiliate links. If you decide to follow one of my links and make a purchase, I’ll earn a small commission. This is at no extra cost to you.

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Traveling to Lebanon

If you’re planning to travel to Lebanon, you probably have an interest in the Middle East or know why Lebanon is so awesome. You’ve checked Skyscanner for the cheapest flights to Beirut, you’ve booked your hotel via booking.com , Hostelworld or Airbnb , and have an idea of the things you want to do while traveling in Lebanon. You probably know you cannot enter the country with a visa stamp from Israel and you’ve checked your local government’s website to see what they have to say.

You probably did all that or you can do it now. (I’ll wait). And NOW you wish to know what it is like to actually travel to Lebanon and explore Beirut and the other amazing sights. Here are some things you cannot look up in a guide book but my first-hand experiences of things that stood out to me while traveling in Lebanon. Enjoy!

Check out my YouTube Channel for more Lebanon Travel Videos. Make sure to subscribe to not miss a thing!

1. Don’t assume everyone is Muslim in Lebanon

Lebanon is located in the Middle East and surrounded by Arab nations, hence, Lebanon is Arabic and Muslim? Right? Wrong!

Half of the population of Lebanon is Christian and when traveling in Lebanon, you’ll experience a wide range of religions from Greek Orthodox Christians to Sunni Muslims, from Maronite Christians to Druzes and almost everything in between.

On a Sunday, you can hear the tolling of church bells at one moment, followed by the call to prayer from the mosques the next. Read up about Lebanon before you go and travel to Beirut. For example, pick up a copy of the Bradt Lebanon guide book .

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

2. There is more to Lebanon than just Beirut

When you travel to Lebanon, chances are, you’ll land in Beirut. As Lebanon currently is only accessible via air transport, you’ll land at Beirut airport and probably explore the capital first.

This bustling mega-city was surprisingly relaxed. I don’t like big cities, so I only allocated one day to explore Beirut. For me, this was more than enough as the rest of the country is equally diverse and exciting!

Many people go to Lebanon and spend their week or 10 days in the capital, taking day trips across the country. Although there is nothing wrong with that, I found the other cities and villages in Lebanon equally impressive and staying overnight, for example in Byblos or the Bekaa Valley, allows you to explore more in-depth instead of rushing back to Beirut.

I share my 10-day Lebanon itinerary with you for ideas and tips on where to travel in Lebanon.

3. Traveling to Lebanon felt perfectly safe as a solo female traveler

Yes, there is an ongoing conflict between Hezbollah and Israel which mainly takes place in the south of Lebanon. If you wish to travel further south than Tyre, you need a permit that you can get in Saida. The UNIFIL (The United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon) is controlling the region and you can see them in the streets.

When I visited the Bekaa valley, which my government advises not to travel to or only travel to when needed, I felt perfectly safe. Yes, I drove on the Beirut- Damascus highway. When I was in Aanjar, I was only minutes away from the Syrian border and the area was full of checkpoints and military presence. However, I never felt unsafe.

People go about their business, shops are open, families go out for a picnic. There are some astonishing treasures in the Bekaa Valley and I really loved my stay there. I felt perfectly safe, crossing the country on my own. Going out at night, walking the streets in Beirut but also in Tyre, Tripoli, and Zahlé. It felt like any other city in the world and I wasn’t hassled by street vendors or salespeople.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

4. You will see checkpoints and the army is present in Lebanon

Having said that, for me it is uncommon to see checkpoints and soldiers in the streets, wearing their machine gun in front of them with their finger on the trigger. Yes, this startled me. On my first day in Lebanon, I was walking down the street, following my Google Maps advice to get from A to B when I noticed the street was suspiciously quiet.

As I was walking, I suddenly got a tap on my shoulder and a soldier asked me where I was going? It turned out, I was walking right into a no-go zone and the soldier didn’t really pay attention to my presence. I apologized and turned around.

In Beirut, there are many places with barbwire and where you can’t photograph. Just follow instructions of the people walking around. Regardless of all this, I never felt unsafe or uncomfortable.

5. Be wowed by the long history of Lebanon

I sure was! From ancient Phoenicians to Assyrians, Greeks, and Romans, to Byzantines, via Persians, Arabs, Crusaders, and Ottomans to the French, all cultures left their mark on Lebanon, making it an intriguing mixture of history! I loved roaming around the different ruins of Lebanon and discovering new features everywhere. I made a plan to travel around Lebanon and see as many ruins as possible.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

6. Bring a pen in your hand luggage when you travel to Lebanon

Uhmm… a pen you say? Yes, super useful. When you enter the country and when you leave, you need to fill out a tiny immigration document. The airline handed out the documents on the plane, but of course, they didn’t provide a pen. Save time and whisk out the pen from your hand luggage and beat the queues at the airport by just being prepared!

7. Bring hiking shoes and outdoor clothes for your trip to Lebanon

If you love nature and like to escape the big city of Beirut, make sure to bring hiking shoes and some outdoor clothes. Even a pair of jeans can be enough. Lebanon is equipped with some pristine nature and impressive national parks.

The nation’s symbol, the Cedar trees, is protected in several national parks across the country. Extensive hiking trails, long but also short, are set out and you can easily connect with nature in Lebanon.

Hike the Qadisha Valley near Bcharré or explore the Shouf Cedars National Park to connect with nature. You’ll be happy to bring your hiking shoes and a jacket.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

8. There is no such thing as overdoing it on perfume.

When you’re packing for your trip to Lebanon, make sure to bring some extra perfume. Why? Because perfume is used in abundance by Lebanese people. Everywhere I went, when passing people on the street, I got a strong whiff of Gucci, Calvin Klein or Hugo.

Spray on a little extra before you go out in Beirut, to blend in. I use these super useful carry-on perfume dispensers , so I always have a small bit of my favorite perfume ( DKNY ) in my purse.

9. Be prepared to be underdressed or out dressed.

As a solo female traveler, I love to look good when I travel, but I don’t pack a whole wardrobe. Mainly, because I am not stylish enough but mostly, because I don’t care enough.

But I felt really, really , underdressed walking around in Beirut. The men and young women are sooo stylish in Beirut and the rest of the country. Flowy dresses, matching shoes, designer purse and earrings, and immaculate make-up. I felt majorly outdressed in Lebanon.

If you plan on hitting the clubs in Beirut when you travel to Lebanon, make sure to make an effort of your appearance.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

10. Smoking is allowed, almost everywhere

I was shocked to see people lit up a cigarette at the breakfast table in my hotel in Beirut . I was almost offended when people smoked on the cramped bus but apparently, smoking in public places in Lebanon is perfectly normal. Whether it be normal cigarettes or the typical nargile (or shisha), smoking is a social event and must be done at any moment of the day, in any place.

11. Pay with US Dollars or Lebanese Pounds when you’re traveling around Lebanon

Moneywise, Lebanon is super easy to travel to. Bring a wad of American Dollars, and just pay with them at almost all occasions. Just ask for the change to be in Lebanese pound and you never have to stop at a bank or exchange office during your trip to Lebanon.

Of course, withdrawing money from an ATM is perfectly fine or exchange your money at an exchange office, but I found it easier to just exchange at hotels, cab drivers, bigger markets and restaurants.

Although we have the Euro at home, I brought US dollars with me to Lebanon and didn’t need to withdraw money. I paid the hotels with my credit card (charged in US dollars) and the rest I exchanged as I went along.

1 dollar equals 1.500 LL so it is also easy to calculate. Just pay with smaller dollar bills (like 20$ for example) and always have some Lebanese money for the shared taxi, buses and small purchases in shops.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

12. Travel in Lebanon is expensive

When you’re traveling to Lebanon, expect to pay the same prices as in Europe or North America. I found the price level to be equal to the Netherlands, France, Italy, and the UK. The shared taxi service was quite cheap, but hotels, meals, and attractions will burn a hole in your travel budget.

Expect to pay between 80 and 100 $ for a mid-range hotel room across the country. For a Lebanese meal, with mezzes, drinks, main course, and dessert, you’ll pay roughly 25-40 $ depending on how many people you’ll share the meal with.

A tour from Beirut can cost up to 80$ for a group tour, to 250$ for a private tour. I’ll share my spending and more budget tips later, so be sure to check back soon!

13. Take a taxi when needed

I never take a taxi at home. Hoping in a cab is just crazy expensive and I’d rather walk. But not in Lebanon! Shared taxis are cheap as chips and super easy.

Expect to pay 1.500 to 2.000 LL per ride within the city. Just say shared or service when you get in.

Most people pay the driver when they get in but you can also pay when you leave the taxi.

For smaller rides, the fare is lower, but I never had the courage to haggle with the taxi driver to get 500 LL back, so I always paid 2.000 LL.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

14. Having said that, a taxi to the airport is considerably more expensive

It seems to be a golden rule that taxi to and from the airport need to be crazy expensive. Even when the airport is only a 20-minute ride to the city. When you leave Beirut airport to go to Beirut downtown, the fixed price for a taxi from the airport seems to be $27 at the moment.

If you wish to go from downtown Beirut to the airport, expect to pay 23$. Your hotel can easily arrange for a taxi and they will wait for you with a sign with your name on it.

Allo Taxi is used quite often for this service, but the trick is, you can also arrange them yourself. If you download their app (iOS here , Android here ), you can request a taxi from the airport to Beirut downtown for $23. Going back will cost 25.000 LL or 16-17$ which will save you a few bucks for the exact same service.

Don’t use them to get around Beirut though, you’ll pay roughly 10$ for a single ride, where the shared service taxi will cost you $1.50 max.

15. Don’t be offended by honking cars on the streets

When walking down the street, especially along busy roads, it is not uncommon to hear honking cars all the time. They slowly drive past you, trying to catch your eye. This is not creepy and you shouldn’t be offended.

This is just the way how shared service taxis are looking for customers! It seems everyone in Beirut and the rest of Lebanon drives to where they wish to go, so walking along the street must mean you need a taxi! Just wave your hand or shake your head to indicate you don’t need a taxi.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

16. Go skiing in the morning, take a dip in the ocean in the afternoon.

Lebanon prides herself with being so diverse and with good reason. It is really true that you can go skiing or snowboarding in the morning in the mountains of Lebanon. And then plunge in the Mediterranean Sea in the afternoon. Having said so, this also means the weather can vary a lot within just 1-hour drive! It can be 22 degrees in Beirut and one-hour driving in-land, you can be caught in a snow blizzard.

During my 10 day travel in Lebanon, I encountered sun and sea but also hail, wind, and snow! On the day of my departure, it was snowing outside my hotel room at -1 degree Celsius (30F), but by the time I got to Beirut, it was sunny and 18 degrees outside (64F).

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

17. Don’t accept any extra food you didn’t order

When eating out, I absolutely advise you to try the Lebanese mezzes! They stash your whole table with cold and warm mezzes, small dishes to share across the table. Eating out in Lebanon is always a good idea as I found the food of exquisite freshness and quality.

But be aware of the oldest trick in the book. Especially at more touristy restaurants, they will put extra food (or drinks) on the table that you didn’t order. Now an extra bottle of water is not the worst thing, but at one night, I got billed nearly 20$ extra for mezzes I didn’t order and a refill on my drink that I didn’t ask for (and didn’t touch). If you didn’t order it and you don’t want it, don’t eat it and send it back.

18. Don’t expect everyone to speak English in Lebanon

Maybe I assumed English would get me quite far. And if not, I could always rely on my rusty French from high school. Turned out, I found myself in quite a few situations where I really wanted to communicate with the local Lebanese people, but we didn’t have any language in common.

If only I had learned a couple of words of Arabic! I meant to, but you know how life gets in the way and it is so hard to learn a new language at an older age. All excuses, but I really wished I spoke at least a few basic words in Arabic .

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

19. You can’t order Coca Cola or Sprite in Lebanon

Ok, this might seem like a minor thing, but as a true fan of Coca Cola and a strong opinion about Pepsi, this really stood out to me! Pepsi, and thus 7Up, dominate the drink industry in Lebanon. They never left the country and they are rock solid connection with all Horeca outlets. If you look really hard, I’m sure you can find a can of Coca Cola somewhere, but the majority will be Pepsi and 7Up.

20. Ask the locals for advice but be aware who you’re talking to.

I always find it a good idea to ask locals for advice. They know the region best, the know if roads are open, how long things take and how much simple things costs. The receptionist at your hotel in Beirut can help you out a lot but also the people at the local tourist offices are very helpful.

However, I did notice, people in Lebanon can be pretty biased with their recommendations and advice. For example, I asked the lady at the reception of my hotel in Beirut about going to Tyre for a day trip and she made an awful face. Nose up, frowned eyebrows and an overall fowl look of disgust, asking me why I would want to go there.

When I was passing through several villages on the way, I asked someone if they knew any good place for lunch. The man advice against me stopping in the next village, because the places were no good and I should definitely continue half an hour to another village. As I passed the first village, it looked really appealing and relaxed but when I got to the recommended village, it was an absolute dump.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

21. Be careful to be caught in a political discussion

It seems everywhere I went, people wanted to mention the horrors of the war and the ongoing struggles of the country. In several situations, I felt really uncomfortable when people were trashing their fellow Lebanese countrymen for having a different religion or advising me to go somewhere else because that city or town was full of terrorist and thieves.

As a non-religious person myself, it is deeply troubling to hear people let their lives dictated by the difference and not by the common grounds we humans share. I felt very eager to steer any conversation away from those topics and keep things light and casual. I’m not saying you should avoid talking about a certain subject, but it made me very uncomfortable at times.

22. There is no kissing on TV

All the hotel rooms I stayed in, had a tv. At first, I didn’t use them, because I figured it would be all in Arabic. But it turns out, most of these tv’s had quite a few other channels with English movies and Arabic subtitles. I spend a nice evening watching one sappy romantic story after another. But one thing you’ll notice is, that the kissing scenes are all cut! There is no kissing on tv in Lebanon. Odd little fact but I thought you should know.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

23. You can’t use the call-function on WhatsApp in Lebanon

I purchased a Lebanese sim card with data for my stay in Lebanon. The salesman asked me if I wanted to purchase minutes too because you can’t voice dial with Whatsapp. I found this a bit odd especially seeing how expensive it is to purchase minutes. But Lebanese people have a resourceful solution for this. They leave voice messages for each other on Whatsapp.

Sitting on the bus, I was puzzled as to why the man in front of me was constantly speaking into his phone but didn’t seem to have a conversation. Turns out, he sends voice messages back and forth with the people in his contact list.

24. Double security at the Beirut airport

When my traveling in Lebanon was over, I returned to the airport to be surprised to see no check-in lines at the departure gates. On the left and the right, there were security lines and I was doubting where to go to check-in and leave my luggage.

Turns out, you first go through general security and then you’ll find the check-in desks and the places to drop off your luggage. After this, you go through immigration and have to fill out the form with your passport details. After the exit stamp in your passport, you’ll find yourself in the departure hall.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

25. There is only 1 common restaurant at Beirut airport

I wanted to eat something before the flight home, but it seems there is only one restaurant where you can have a sit-down dinner at the Beirut Rafic Hariri Airport. The rest is carefully protected in private lounges where you just can’t get in if you’re not with a certain club or card or whatever. I was a bit disappointed by this, as apparently, the new airport lounge is supposed to be really relaxed and cool.

  • Bradt Lebanon Guidebook is a good guide for information and practical travel tips. Purchase your copy here .
  • Book your hotels in Lebanon via Booking.com or Hotels.com
  • Book your direct flights to Beirut, Lebanon here
  • Travel in style with your Lebanon Passport cover! Absolutely love these !
  • Unfortunately, things can and do go wrong when you travel in Lebanon. World Nomads offers coverage for more than 150 activities as well as emergency medical, lost luggage, trip cancellation and more.

Traveling in Lebanon

Now, of course, these are just snippets of information I gathered myself. Most of them stood out because of my own references and things I knew or expected about the country. I hope it gives you a fun insight into what you can expect when you’re traveling in Lebanon.

  • My 10-Day Lebanon Itinerary
  • Day trip to Tyre and Sidon from Beirut
  • 10 Remarkable Roman Ruins in Lebanon you must visit
  • Epic Outdoor Adventures in Lebanon for Nature Lovers
  • My Lebanon Travel Budget Breakdown
  • 17 Amazing Things To Do in Beirut – Lebanon

Are you planning a trip to Lebanon? What is it you wish to know before you go? Let me know in the comment section below, I’d love to hear from you.

What is it like to be traveling to Lebanon? I share my practical and informative things you should know before you travel to Beirut and in Lebanon.

Author: Naomi

We were very recently on a long trip through 5 countries in the Middle East, and wanted to give some input to your posts on Lebanon which we found quite valuable.

We are independent explorers travelling to places less travelled, hence doing all our own research online and finding speaking to locals invaluable. On the odd occasion that we did look at a blog post for Lebanon – yours stood out giving depth to the experiences. So thank you.

We absolutely loved Beirut, Byblos & Batroun in particular – food, culture and music scenes. They are all dotted along the Med Sea, and perhaps not the prettiest but certainly the most interesting compared to other more developed neighbours on the Med.

Outside of the current crisis situation in this region (more southern Lebanon) – we can confirm that it is safe and easy to travel to both Tyre & Sidon from Beirut by public transport (1 taxi from Cola Station takes you to both towns) or your own vehicle. There are UN checkpoints, but nothing serious – in fact an added measure of safety.

And off course, you cannot visit Lebanon without seeing the majestic city of Baalbek. All news reports tell you not to visit, with travel advisories in place because it’s close to the Syrian border with some reported tourist muggings and a kidnapping in recent years (not 100% unique to Baalbek in the global picture). We spoke to locals, hotel managers, coffee shop owners etc – all advising otherwise and so we went. From Beirut hotel, we took an Uber to Cola Bus Station and a then mini van directly to Baalbek (about 2hr 30min). The incredible scale of the ruins are magnificent to see – and cannot be missed.

Crucial tip for travellers is to withdraw US$ BEFORE you land in Lebanon, so that you dont get the banks 15,000 LBP to 1$ rate. We withdrew at the Doha airport – and were so so so happy we did. Once you have USD you can trade on the black market rate very very easily. No credit cards accepted anywhere.

Oh and final comment : Hands down, Lebanon (& Israel) have the best food in the Middle East :). So encourage people to go, and wish for PEACE in this time !!

Glad you found my article worth the read Janine. And that you had a great time in Lebanon. Happy travels

I’m wanting to visit a friend, so thinking of going in October. With the present upheaval in the world, my family and friend’s think I’m crazy, but I’m not put off. Thank you for your sharing yiur views, makes me definitely want to visit. I was rhete 40 years ago so can’t wait to see the changes.

I’m sure you won’t recognize certain parts, Anne! A lot had changed, but a lot has stayed the same for sure. Safe travels.

Good observations! Some notes: As of September 2019, you can use uber in Beirut. For getting into the city from the airport, just exit the airport building upstairs and get one of the taxis that brought the passengers to Departures. You will pay a lot less, around 15 USD or 20000 LBP. And as of now, whatsapp call function works all right.

Good to know Alex. Thanks for sharing.

Neomi you are such a jewel .I am a Lebanese/American who hadn’t been to Lebanon for some time now and looking at your trip it was very encouraging and motivating at the same time nostalgic as it brought up memories since I know how the corrupt system there is and how negligent drivers are . While is is also very scary to drive the first day or two you find yourself at risk when you get back as you get carried with the way they drive after few days when you gain some confidence so getting citations when you return can be a challenge to avoid till you gain your normal driving mode back 🙂 .Any way your description is fun to read and I will be your fan and read each and every trip you make and wish I could be some day your companion traveler when time and circumstances allows it .I wish you the best in all your efforts and all the fun and best of all be safe and always keep posting new trips .Best regards .

Thank you for your kinds words Kam. You are right, the first few days after I returned I was scared to get in my car as I’d probably not drive correctly for my country. But it faded and now I have only good memories of Lebanon and driving around in Lebanon. Feel free to check out my other posts about Lebanon that I wrote in the meantime. You can find them under destinations>> Lebanon.

Comments are closed.

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COVID-19: travel health notice for all travellers

Lebanon travel advice

Latest updates: The Health section was updated - travel health information (Public Health Agency of Canada)

Last updated: May 6, 2024 10:24 ET

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Safety and security, entry and exit requirements, laws and culture, natural disasters and climate, lebanon - avoid all travel.

The security situation can deteriorate further without warning.

If the armed conflict intensifies it could impact your ability to depart the country by commercial means. You should not rely on the Government of Canada for assisted departure or evacuation.

In the event of an evacuation, Government of Canada assisted departures will only be available to Canadian citizens and permanent residents in Lebanon, as well as their accompanying spouse and dependent children. All travellers will require valid travel documents for their assisted departure. The required onward travel to Canada from a safe third location will be at your own expense.

Make sure your travel documents and those of your spouse and children are up to date and secure at all times.

You should consider leaving by commercial means now, if you can do so safely.

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Security situation in Beirut and southern Lebanon

The situation in Lebanon remains volatile and unpredictable due to violent clashes along the border with Israel, including daily rocket and missile fire as well as air strikes. On January 2, 2024, explosions caused by suspected drone strikes occurred in the Dahiyeh district of Beirut, resulting in casualties. The attacks appear to be related to the ongoing conflict in the region and could lead to an escalation of hostilities in Lebanon.

Your safety and security could be at risk. If you intend to travel to Lebanon despite the advisory, you should consult local authorities and/or experienced local partners, plan a secure route, and monitor the security situation where you are travelling. Emergencies may require you to shelter in place with robust supplies of food, water and medications. Since October 2023, the Government of Canada has advised Canadians to leave Lebanon while commercial options remain available.

If you are in Lebanon, including in Beirut:

  • be extremely vigilant and aware of your surroundings
  • book a flight to leave the country
  • expect a heightened security presence
  • carry identification documents at all times
  • avoid the area along the borders with Israel and Syria
  • make sure your passport and travel documents are up-to-date, including those of your family
  • register and update your contact information through the Registration of Canadians Abroad service and encourage other Canadian citizens in Lebanon to do so

Security situation

The security situation is precarious in Lebanon. Large-scale protests in response to the situation in Israel, the West Bank and the Gaza Strip have lead to civil unrest, particularly in Beirut. Protestors have targeted foreign embassies and international organizations.

The country faces a major economic crisis, resulting in severe shortages of basic necessities including medicines and fuel. Tensions and altercations between individuals waiting at gas stations and pharmacies have occurred outside Beirut. The economic instability has also affected the delivery of public services, including healthcare.

The crime rate is on the rise. Decreasing resources within security forces affects law enforcement capabilities.

Pre-existing sectarian tensions, coupled with the spillover of the conflict in Syria, are also playing a destabilizing role in the country.

2SLGBTQI+ persons

2SLGBTQI+ persons are discriminated against based on their sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression or sex characteristics.  Incitement to violence and attacks on 2SLGBTQI+ persons occur. On August 23, 2023, members of an organized group stormed a queer-friendly bar in Beirut and physically attacked clients.

There are reports of individuals using popular dating apps and websites to threaten, extort and blackmail 2SLGBTQI+ persons.

  • Beware of people who show a keen interest online
  • You could be the victim of a scam if you agree to meet with an online acquaintance
  • Always meet new acquaintances in a secure and familiar location
  • Inviting a stranger to your hotel room or apartment can be risky

Travel and your sexual orientation, gender identity, gender expression and sex characteristics

Areas South of Litani River

The United Nations Interim Force in Lebanon (UNIFIL) maintains additional peacekeepers south of the Litani River near the border with Israel due to the security situation. This region remains highly militarized and volatile. Rocket launches and border incidents resulting in casualties occasionally occur, provoking retaliatory attacks in this region and elsewhere in Lebanon.

Forces other than the Lebanese authorities exert significant control over parts of this region. Access restrictions may delay or prevent Canadian officials from providing assistance to citizens in these areas.

The international border between Lebanon and Israel is not entirely defined. UNIFIL enforces the Blue Line, which separates the two countries. Areas adjacent to the Blue Line are often heavily mined. The areas of Ghajar, Kfar Shouba Hills and Shebaa Farms are inaccessible from Lebanon. The border with Israel is closed.

Avoid all travel south of the Litani River, especially near the border with Israel due to ongoing military activity.

If you are travelling to the city of Tyre, use only the main coastal highway. Travel permits from Lebanese authorities and/or UNIFIL may be required to enter areas south of the Litani River that border Israel.

Southern Suburbs of Beirut

Armed groups are present in large parts of Beirut’s southern suburbs. These neighbourhoods are targets for organized crime and terrorist attacks causing deaths and injuries. Tactics used by terrorists include car bombing, suicide bombing and rocket fire. There is also a risk of kidnapping and you could be caught in violent clashes between armed groups.

North Lebanon

While Lebanese security forces have conducted operations in northern Lebanon to improve the security situation, some parts of the region remain unstable. Some of these areas have experienced inter-communal violence that can spread to outlying areas. Heavy weapons fire (machine guns, grenades and rocket-propelled grenades), sniper activity and terrorist incidents have occurred.

Extremist groups have sought refuge in northern Lebanon, including throughout Akkar District.

Border region with Syria

The security situation in regions bordering Syria has deteriorated as a result of the ongoing conflict. Armed groups as well as the Lebanese and Syrian military have carried out operations resulting in casualties. Tensions between armed groups have also increased in border areas, resulting in violent clashes and kidnappings.

The border is not always clearly marked.

North Eastern Bekaa Valley

The security situation in the North Eastern Bekaa Valley is volatile and there is an ongoing risk of sporadic violence, organized crime, and kidnapping.

Palestinian refugee camps

The security situation in Palestinian refugee camps and surrounding areas remains tense and unpredictable. Violence is common in some camps—particularly Ain el Helweh, near Saida, and Beddawi, near Tripoli.

Refugee camps are often located close to urban centres and are not always visibly demarcated. Exercise caution and remain aware of your whereabouts at all times in order to avoid unknowingly entering a camp. Palestinian authorities control the security in most camps and may delay or refuse to grant Canadian officials access to Canadian in these areas.

There’s a threat of terrorism. Attacks can occur at any time and any place in Lebanon.

Targets could include:

  • government buildings, military installations and schools
  • places of worship
  • airports and other transportation hubs and networks
  • public areas such as tourist attractions, restaurants, bars, coffee shops, shopping centres, markets, hotels and other sites frequented by foreigners

Local authorities are on a high state of alert and carry out anti-terrorism operations across the country to prevent attacks. The potential for attacks and a rapid deterioration of the security situation remains across the country, including in Beirut.

There is a significant presence of terrorist groups in several areas of southern Lebanon, including in the southern suburbs of Beirut and the northern Bekaa Valley. Armed actors other than Lebanese authorities exert a large amount of control in some areas, and they may delay or prevent Canadian officials from assisting Canadians in the region.

Politically-motivated attacks also remain likely. A number of such attacks have taken place in the southern suburbs of Beirut.

Always be aware of your surroundings when in public places. Be particularly vigilant during sporting events, religious holidays and other public celebrations. Terrorists may use such occasions to mount attacks.

Lebanon is experiencing chronic fuel shortages. You may have some difficulties securing fuel.

There are frequent, prolonged and unpredictable closures of fuel stations. Long lineups have formed at gas stations, creating road blockades which have led to several accidents. Arguments and violent altercations, sometimes involving use of weapons have also occurred. Decrease in fuel quality has also been reported causing damages to vehicles.

Fuel and diesel shortages are also impacting other sectors such as:

  • telecommunication, including internet
  • water and waste collection
  • shops, cafes and restaurants

The difficulty to access fuel and diesel has led to frequent unplanned closures of power generators and interruptions in the delivery of basic commodities such as water, flour, and gas.

Medicine and medical supplies

There are shortages of medicine and medical supplies. When available, these may be very costly. Such shortages have also significantly affected the health care sector, with many private hospitals closing or reducing their services.

Ensure that your emergency kit is complete.

Exchange rates and foreign currency

In recent months, the value of the Lebanese Pound has depreciated quickly against the US Dollar. As a result, there is a high inflation on prices of most goods and services. The economic situation could affect your ability to pay for goods and services.

There is also a severe shortage of foreign currency. It is very difficult to access US Dollars locally. Change in foreign currency may also not be available. While ATMs are generally stocked with Lebanese Pounds, there may be limits on daily withdrawals imposed by certain banks.

Many stores and companies no longer accept credit/debit cards.

  • Plan accordingly
  • Ensure that you have access to adequate cash
  • Avoid carrying large sums of cash on yourself and keep foreign currency out of sight

Power disruptions

Power outages and rationing of electricity are common in many parts of the country, including in Beirut. They may affect critical infrastructure, such as hospitals. They could also affect other essential services such as food production and distribution.

Other services are often disrupted during such events, including:

  • public water supply
  • communications, mainly cellular telephone and Internet

Demonstrations

The deterioration of the security environment and the political uncertainty may lead to an increase in civil unrest at any time. Planned and spontaneous demonstrations related to the domestic and regional situations regularly occur in Lebanon, particularly in Beirut.

Even peaceful demonstrations can turn violent at any time. They can also lead to disruptions to traffic and public transportation.

The road to Beirut–Rafic Hariri International Airport is subject to sporadic closures, due to various factors including clashes between various local groups. Access to the airport may be unavailable for extended periods when the security situation deteriorates.

  • Avoid all areas where demonstrations and large gatherings are taking place
  • Allow extra time to get to and from the airport
  • Follow the instructions of local authorities
  • Monitor local media for information on ongoing demonstrations

Mass gatherings (large-scale events)

Kidnappings have occurred in the border areas with Syria, in the Bekaa Valley and could happen in other parts of Lebanon. In the southern suburbs of Beirut, foreigners and residents have been held against their will. Although most incidents of kidnapping typically involve Lebanese residents, foreigners have also been targeted. Maintain a high level of vigilance at all times.

Landmines and unexploded ordnance continue to pose a threat in some parts of the country, including south of the Litani River and near the northeastern border region.

  • Look for posted landmine warnings
  • Stay on paved roads
  • Avoid walking or hiking in these areas.

Petty crime has significantly increased since 2020. Purse snatching, pick pocketing, car thefts, and residential break-ins, occur regularly.

There are reports of thefts at Beirut’s international airport. Criminals have stolen goods from luggage, looking especially for medications.

  • Be vigilant in all crowded locations
  • Don’t carry large sums of money
  • Ensure that your personal belongings, including your passport and other travel documents, are secure at all times

Violent crime and sexual assault have also increased. Shooting incidents, especially at gas stations, have led to injuries and deaths of civilians.

There is a highly visible security presence throughout the country. 

  • Exercise vigilance and appropriate safety precautions
  • Carry personal documentation with you and follow the instructions of Lebanese security authorities

Road safety

Congestion and aggressive driving are serious problems throughout the country. Drivers often don’t respect the rules of the road, and traffic laws are not consistently enforced. Be cautious when crossing streets, as drivers don’t always give pedestrians and cyclists the right of way.

Road accidents and serious road rage incidents causing injury or death are common in Lebanon.

Road lighting is sporadic and unreliable in urban areas and virtually non-existent in rural areas. At night, many drivers use their high beams exclusively, often creating a serious hazard due to blinding glare. Increased power cuts have led to interruptions of traffic lights in the city centre, including at major intersections.

Public transportation

Avoid public transportation, which is crowded, unsafe and unreliable.

Foreigners using shared transportation have been victims of armed robbery, either by the driver or other passengers. Most major hotel chains will have an agreement with a reputable taxi company and can arrange the taxi for you.

  • Don’t use shared or “service” taxis.
  • Always pre-arrange transportation with a safe and reliable taxi company.
  • Don’t hail taxis off the street and avoid using unmarked taxi services.

We do not make assessments on the compliance of foreign domestic airlines with international safety standards.

Information about foreign domestic airlines

Every country or territory decides who can enter or exit through its borders. The Government of Canada cannot intervene on your behalf if you do not meet your destination’s entry or exit requirements.

We have obtained the information on this page from the Lebanese authorities. It can, however, change at any time.

Verify this information with the  Foreign Representatives in Canada .

Entry requirements vary depending on the type of passport you use for travel.

Before you travel, check with your transportation company about passport requirements. Its rules on passport validity may be more stringent than the country’s entry rules.

Regular Canadian passport

Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months beyond the date you expect to leave Lebanon.

Passport for official travel

Different entry rules may apply.

Official travel

Passport with “X” gender identifier

While the Government of Canada issues passports with an “X” gender identifier, it cannot guarantee your entry or transit through other countries. You might face entry restrictions in countries that do not recognize the “X” gender identifier. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination.

Other travel documents

Different entry rules may apply when travelling with a temporary passport or an emergency travel document. Before you leave, check with the closest foreign representative for your destination.

Useful links

  • Foreign Representatives in Canada
  • Canadian passports

Tourist visa: required Student visa: required Work visa: required Business visa: required

As a Canadian citizen, you must obtain a visa to visit Lebanon. Ensure you apply for the proper type of visa for the specific purpose of your trip. Visas are available at Lebanese diplomatic missions abroad or at any port of entry into Lebanon.

Make sure your visa is valid for the duration of your stay. An expired entry visa must be extended by Lebanese authorities or you will not be allowed to leave the country.

Entry stamp

Your passport must show a Lebanese entry stamp in order to exit the country. If you acquire a new passport while in Lebanon, you must present your old passport containing proof of entry to authorities upon departure.

Travel bans

Local authorities may issue travel bans that won’t allow you to enter or exit Lebanon, regardless of your nationality.

You may also be denied re-entry to Lebanon if you left Lebanon as a refugee. To ensure that you are not subject to a travel ban to re-enter Lebanon, contact the Lebanese authorities prior to your departure to Lebanon

Regional travel

Travel to or from Israel is illegal in Lebanon. You may be refused entry into Lebanon if your passport bears an Israeli visa, an Israeli border stamp, or an Egyptian or Jordanian border stamp issued by an office bordering Israel, as such a stamp could indicate you visited Israel prior to visiting Lebanon.

South of the Litani River

Travel permits from Lebanese authorities and/or UNIFIL may be required to enter areas south of the Litani River bordering Israel.

Children and travel

Children travelling with only one parent may be required to provide an authorization letter from the other parent to exit Lebanon.

  • Travelling with children

Yellow fever

Learn about potential entry requirements related to yellow fever (vaccines section).

Relevant Travel Health Notices

  • Global Measles Notice - 13 March, 2024
  • COVID-19 and International Travel - 13 March, 2024

This section contains information on possible health risks and restrictions regularly found or ongoing in the destination. Follow this advice to lower your risk of becoming ill while travelling. Not all risks are listed below.

Consult a health care professional or visit a travel health clinic preferably 6 weeks before you travel to get personalized health advice and recommendations.

Routine vaccines

Be sure that your  routine vaccinations , as per your province or territory , are up-to-date before travelling, regardless of your destination.

Some of these vaccinations include measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis, polio, varicella (chickenpox), influenza and others.

Pre-travel vaccines and medications

You may be at risk for preventable diseases while travelling in this destination. Talk to a travel health professional about which medications or vaccines may be right for you, based on your destination and itinerary. 

Yellow fever is a disease caused by a flavivirus from the bite of an infected mosquito.

Travellers get vaccinated either because it is required to enter a country or because it is recommended for their protection.

  • There is no risk of yellow fever in this country.

Country Entry Requirement*

  • Proof of vaccination is not required to enter this country.

Recommendation

  • Vaccination is not recommended.

* It is important to note that country entry requirements may not reflect your risk of yellow fever at your destination. It is recommended that you contact the nearest diplomatic or consular office of the destination(s) you will be visiting to verify any additional entry requirements.

About Yellow Fever

Yellow Fever Vaccination Centres in Canada

There is a risk of hepatitis A in this destination. It is a disease of the liver. People can get hepatitis A if they ingest contaminated food or water, eat foods prepared by an infectious person, or if they have close physical contact (such as oral-anal sex) with an infectious person, although casual contact among people does not spread the virus.

Practise  safe food and water precautions and wash your hands often. Vaccination is recommended for all travellers to areas where hepatitis A is present.

Measles is a highly contagious viral disease. It can spread quickly from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air.

Anyone who is not protected against measles is at risk of being infected with it when travelling internationally.

Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are fully protected against measles.

  Hepatitis B is a risk in every destination. It is a viral liver disease that is easily transmitted from one person to another through exposure to blood and body fluids containing the hepatitis B virus.  Travellers who may be exposed to blood or other bodily fluids (e.g., through sexual contact, medical treatment, sharing needles, tattooing, acupuncture or occupational exposure) are at higher risk of getting hepatitis B.

Hepatitis B vaccination is recommended for all travellers. Prevent hepatitis B infection by practicing safe sex, only using new and sterile drug equipment, and only getting tattoos and piercings in settings that follow public health regulations and standards.

 The best way to protect yourself from seasonal influenza (flu) is to get vaccinated every year. Get the flu shot at least 2 weeks before travelling.  

 The flu occurs worldwide. 

  •  In the Northern Hemisphere, the flu season usually runs from November to   April.
  •  In the Southern Hemisphere, the flu season usually runs between April and   October.
  •  In the tropics, there is flu activity year round. 

The flu vaccine available in one hemisphere may only offer partial protection against the flu in the other hemisphere.

The flu virus spreads from person to person when they cough or sneeze or by touching objects and surfaces that have been contaminated with the virus. Clean your hands often and wear a mask if you have a fever or respiratory symptoms.

Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) is an infectious viral disease. It can spread from person to person by direct contact and through droplets in the air.

It is recommended that all eligible travellers complete a COVID-19 vaccine series along with any additional recommended doses in Canada before travelling. Evidence shows that vaccines are very effective at preventing severe illness, hospitalization and death from COVID-19. While vaccination provides better protection against serious illness, you may still be at risk of infection from the virus that causes COVID-19. Anyone who has not completed a vaccine series is at increased risk of being infected with the virus that causes COVID-19 and is at greater risk for severe disease when travelling internationally.

Before travelling, verify your destination’s COVID-19 vaccination entry/exit requirements. Regardless of where you are going, talk to a health care professional before travelling to make sure you are adequately protected against COVID-19.

In this destination, rabies is commonly carried by dogs and some wildlife, including bats. Rabies is a deadly disease that spreads to humans primarily through bites or scratches from an infected animal. While travelling, take precautions , including keeping your distance from animals (including free-roaming dogs), and closely supervising children.

If you are bitten or scratched by a dog or other animal while travelling, immediately wash the wound with soap and clean water and see a health care professional. In this destination, rabies treatment may be limited or may not be available, therefore you may need to return to Canada for treatment.  

Before travel, discuss rabies vaccination with a health care professional. It may be recommended for travellers who are at high risk of exposure (e.g., occupational risk such as veterinarians and wildlife workers, children, adventure travellers and spelunkers, and others in close contact with animals). 

Safe food and water precautions

Many illnesses can be caused by eating food or drinking beverages contaminated by bacteria, parasites, toxins, or viruses, or by swimming or bathing in contaminated water.

  • Learn more about food and water precautions to take to avoid getting sick by visiting our eat and drink safely abroad page. Remember: Boil it, cook it, peel it, or leave it!
  • Avoid getting water into your eyes, mouth or nose when swimming or participating in activities in freshwater (streams, canals, lakes), particularly after flooding or heavy rain. Water may look clean but could still be polluted or contaminated.
  • Avoid inhaling or swallowing water while bathing, showering, or swimming in pools or hot tubs. 

Travellers' diarrhea is the most common illness affecting travellers. It is spread from eating or drinking contaminated food or water.

Risk of developing travellers' diarrhea increases when travelling in regions with poor standards of hygiene and sanitation. Practise safe food and water precautions.

The most important treatment for travellers' diarrhea is rehydration (drinking lots of fluids). Carry oral rehydration salts when travelling.

Typhoid   is a bacterial infection spread by contaminated food or water. Risk is higher among children, travellers going to rural areas, travellers visiting friends and relatives or those travelling for a long period of time.

Travellers visiting regions with a risk of typhoid, especially those exposed to places with poor sanitation, should speak to a health care professional about vaccination.  

Cholera is a risk in parts of this country. Most travellers are at very low risk.

To protect against cholera, all travellers should practise safe food and water precautions .

Travellers at higher risk of getting cholera include those:

  • visiting, working or living in areas with limited access to safe food, water and proper sanitation
  • visiting areas where outbreaks are occurring

Vaccination may be recommended for high-risk travellers, and should be discussed with a health care professional.

Insect bite prevention

Many diseases are spread by the bites of infected insects such as mosquitoes, ticks, fleas or flies. When travelling to areas where infected insects may be present:

  • Use insect repellent (bug spray) on exposed skin
  • Cover up with light-coloured, loose clothes made of tightly woven materials such as nylon or polyester
  • Minimize exposure to insects
  • Use mosquito netting when sleeping outdoors or in buildings that are not fully enclosed

To learn more about how you can reduce your risk of infection and disease caused by bites, both at home and abroad, visit our insect bite prevention page.

Find out what types of insects are present where you’re travelling, when they’re most active, and the symptoms of the diseases they spread.

Animal precautions

Some infections, such as rabies and influenza, can be shared between humans and animals. Certain types of activities may increase your chance of contact with animals, such as travelling in rural or forested areas, camping, hiking, and visiting wet markets (places where live animals are slaughtered and sold) or caves.

Travellers are cautioned to avoid contact with animals, including dogs, livestock (pigs, cows), monkeys, snakes, rodents, birds, and bats, and to avoid eating undercooked wild game.

Closely supervise children, as they are more likely to come in contact with animals.

Cases of locally-acquired   Middle East respiratory syndrome  (MERS) have been reported in this country.

MERS is a viral respiratory disease caused by the Middle East respiratory syndrome coronavirus (MERS-CoV).

Some people infected with MERS-CoV experience no symptoms, while others may experience mild flu-like or more severe pneumonia-like symptoms. About one-third of reported cases have result ed in death.

Eat and drink safely ,   and   avoid close contact with animals, especially camels. If you must visit a farm or market, make sure you practise good hygiene and  wash your hands  before and after contact with animals.

There is currently no licensed vaccine to protect against MERS.

Person-to-person infections

Stay home if you’re sick and practise proper cough and sneeze etiquette , which includes coughing or sneezing into a tissue or the bend of your arm, not your hand. Reduce your risk of colds, the flu and other illnesses by:

  •   washing your hands often
  • avoiding or limiting the amount of time spent in closed spaces, crowded places, or at large-scale events (concerts, sporting events, rallies)
  • avoiding close physical contact with people who may be showing symptoms of illness 

Sexually transmitted infections (STIs) , HIV , and mpox are spread through blood and bodily fluids; use condoms, practise safe sex, and limit your number of sexual partners. Check with your local public health authority pre-travel to determine your eligibility for mpox vaccine.  

Medical services and facilities

The medical services and supplies in Lebanon are being affected by the economic crisis and the fuel shortages. As such :

  • air conditioning and lighting may be turned off
  • non-essential medical treatment may be cancelled
  • some sections of hospitals may have reduced capacity or be closed
  • hospitals may refuse to admit patients due to the lack of space or supplies

Medical care facilities could be difficult to access and services can be expensive. Private facilities may not have access to basic resources and may be forced to close or reduce their services, increasing the pressures on the public health system.

Payment in advance is almost always required in private health care facilities.

Make sure you get travel insurance that includes coverage for medical evacuation and hospital stays.

Travel health and safety

Keep in Mind...

The decision to travel is the sole responsibility of the traveller. The traveller is also responsible for his or her own personal safety.

Be prepared. Do not expect medical services to be the same as in Canada. Pack a   travel health kit , especially if you will be travelling away from major city centres.

You must abide by local laws.

Learn about what you should do and how we can help if you are arrested or detained abroad .

Photography

It is prohibited to photograph or videotape government buildings or military personnel, equipment and installations.

Avoid photographing individuals without their permission.

Penalties for possession, use or trafficking of illegal drugs are severe. Convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines.

Individuals charged with drug offences can expect to remain in jail and to be denied bail throughout the judicial process. This process often takes years.

Drugs, alcohol and travel

Dress and behaviour

The dress code in Lebanon is more relaxed than most Middle Eastern countries.

To avoid offending local sensitivities:

  • dress conservatively
  • behave discreetly
  • respect religious and social traditions

Ensure your travel insurance is valid for driving in Lebanon.

You must carry an international driving permit.

International Driving Permit

In 2025, the lunar month of Ramadan is expected to begin on or around February 28.

In public, between sunrise and sunset, be discreet when:

Lebanese law criminalizes sexual acts ''contradicting the laws of nature’’ and a ''man disguising as a woman.’’ These provisions may be interpreted broadly to arrest, detain and prosecute 2SLGBTQI+ persons. If you are convicted, you could face imprisonment.

Authorities regularly ban peaceful gatherings and events related to 2SLGBTQI+ issues.

2SLGBTQI+ persons should carefully consider the risks of travelling to Lebanon.

Dual citizenship

Dual citizenship is legally recognized in Lebanon. However, local authorities will treat dual Canadian-Lebanese citizens as Lebanese nationals.

If local authorities consider you a citizen of Lebanon, they may refuse to grant you access to Canadian consular services. This will prevent us from providing you with those services.

Travellers with dual citizenship

Family law matters in Lebanon, including child custody and divorce-related decisions, are settled according to local religious laws.

Canadian custody documents, including Canadian court orders pertaining to custody, may not be automatically recognized or enforceable in Lebanon. 

Relatives frequently place travel bans on Canadians. If you are involved in custody or other family disputes, consult a lawyer for advice on how religious law in Lebanon may affect your family situation.

International Child Abduction

The Hague Convention on the Civil Aspects of International Child Abduction is an international treaty. It can help parents with the return of children who have been removed to or retained in certain countries in violation of custody rights. It does not apply between Canada and Lebanon.

If your child was wrongfully taken to, or is being held in Lebanon by an abducting parent:

  • act as quickly as you can
  • consult a lawyer in Canada and in Lebanon to explore all the legal options for the return of your child
  • report the situation to the nearest Canadian government office abroad or to the Vulnerable Children’s Consular Unit at Global Affairs Canada by calling the Emergency Watch and Response Centre.

If your child was removed from a country other than Canada, consult a lawyer to determine if The Hague Convention applies.

Be aware that Canadian consular officials cannot interfere in private legal matters or in another country’s judicial affairs.

  • International Child Abduction: A Guidebook for Left-Behind Parents
  • Canadian embassies and consulates by destination
  • Emergency Watch and Response Centre

The currency is the Lebanese pound (LBP).

There is also a severe shortage of foreign currency. It is very difficult to access US Dollars locally. Change in foreign currency may not be available. While ATMs are generally stocked with Lebanese Pounds, there may be limits on daily withdrawals imposed by certain banks.

Traveller’s cheques are not accepted and will not be changed by local financial institutions.

Lebanon is located in a seismic zone. There have been several minor earthquakes in recent years.

In the winter months, mountain roads, including the main Beirut–Damascus highway, may be temporarily blocked or become impassable due to heavy snowfall. Flash floods can occur, rendering roads temporarily dangerous or impracticable.

Local services

In case of emergency, dial:

  • police: 112
  • medical assistance: 140
  • firefighters: 175

Consular assistance

For emergency consular assistance, call the Embassy of Canada in Beirut and follow the instructions. At any time, you may also contact the Emergency Watch and Response Centre in Ottawa.

The decision to travel is your choice and you are responsible for your personal safety abroad. We take the safety and security of Canadians abroad very seriously and provide credible and timely information in our Travel Advice to enable you to make well-informed decisions regarding your travel abroad.

The content on this page is provided for information only. While we make every effort to give you correct information, it is provided on an "as is" basis without warranty of any kind, expressed or implied. The Government of Canada does not assume responsibility and will not be liable for any damages in connection to the information provided.

If you need consular assistance while abroad, we will make every effort to help you. However, there may be constraints that will limit the ability of the Government of Canada to provide services.

Learn more about consular services .

Risk Levels

  take normal security precautions.

Take similar precautions to those you would take in Canada.

  Exercise a high degree of caution

There are certain safety and security concerns or the situation could change quickly. Be very cautious at all times, monitor local media and follow the instructions of local authorities.

IMPORTANT: The two levels below are official Government of Canada Travel Advisories and are issued when the safety and security of Canadians travelling or living in the country or region may be at risk.

  Avoid non-essential travel

Your safety and security could be at risk. You should think about your need to travel to this country, territory or region based on family or business requirements, knowledge of or familiarity with the region, and other factors. If you are already there, think about whether you really need to be there. If you do not need to be there, you should think about leaving.

  Avoid all travel

You should not travel to this country, territory or region. Your personal safety and security are at great risk. If you are already there, you should think about leaving if it is safe to do so.

Lebanon Road Trip Guide 2024: A 1-Week Itinerary Through All the Highlights

The author goes through a dream Lebanon road trip itinerary to explore this Middle Eastern country highlights in just one week.

With just an area of 10,452 square kilometers (4,036 sq mi), Lebanon is a country that you must visit. Lebanon is actually the oldest country name in the world, remaining unchanged for over 4,000 years. Recently, National Geographic declared it as one of the world’s oldest countries.

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Below I will present a guide to a 1-week road trip in Lebanon.

Day 1: Beirut

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When your plane lands in the “Beirut International Airport”, it is best to rent a car and start your week in beautiful Beirut. 

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Beirut is the capital and largest city of Lebanon. Greater Beirut has a population of 2.2 million, which makes it the third-largest city in the Levant region and the thirteenth-largest in the Arab world.

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Beirut is a gem on the Mediterranean coast and one of the oldest cities in the world; it emerges in records kept by the ancient Egyptians. There is a lot to see in Beirut.

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Head to the downtown of Beirut where the famous blue mosque and trendy Beirut souks are located. Then, take a stroll along the Corniche and check out the famous Raouche Rock which is a natural landmark that formed after a big earthquake hit the area in the 13th century. 

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You can enjoy a cup of coffee with the view of the rock on the many cafés that surround the rock. Then, head to Hamra (by car or on foot) and have a nice traditional Lebanese lunch. I recommend Café Em Nazih because it is very affordable and extremely delicious and authentic. 

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Then, head to the famous “American University of Beirut” and check its beautiful campus. The university has a great Archaeological Museum and art galleries that host a variety of exhibitions and events. Then, head to Ashrafieh and check the tallest building in Lebanon “Sama Beirut”.

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To finish off the day, have some dinner and drinks in the lovely and quaint bars and restaurants of Gemmayzeh and Mar Mikhael.

Day 2: Jounieh / Jeita / Byblos

Start your car and head to Jounieh in the early morning. Grab a Manoushe on your way there from any shop along the highway. Manoushe is a must-try popular Lebanese breakfast and is eaten on the go.  Try the za’atar, cheese, and keshek manoushe! 

Jounieh is a coastal city in the Keserwan District, about 16 km north of Beirut. Head to the famous village of Harissa where the “The Shrine of Our Lady of Lebanon” is located overlooking the bay of Jounieh.

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You can take the gondola lift, the Téléphérique, from the city of Jounieh to Harissa and enjoy a breathtaking view. 

After that, head back down and drive to the popular Jeita Grotto which is just 15 mins away. The Jeita Grotto is a natural wonder and was one of the top 14 finalists in the New 7 Wonders of Nature competition. Jeita Grotto is actually the longest cave complex in the Middle East (9 kilometers long). You can take a short ride in a rowboat in the lower cave and discover this wonderful landmark on the way. 

After seeing the grotto, head to Byblos (35 mins away) where you will be spending the night. Make sure to book a hotel on the beach ahead of time. To save time, stop by a shawarma place on the way and order endless amounts of chicken or meat shawarma which are to die for!

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Byblos (Jbeil) is one of the 20 oldest cities in the world, and it has been constantly inhabited ever since it was formed in 5,000 B.C.  Byblos is linked with the history of the diffusion of the Phoenician alphabet. When in Byblos, take a stroll through its old stone cobbled street (souk) where they sell everything from traditional embroidery to souvenirs and hand-made jewelry.

Also, do not forget to check the well-kept Byblos castle which was built by the Crusaders in the 12th century from indigenous limestone and the remains of Roman structures. If you do not have time on this day, check the castle quickly the next morning before heading to Batroun as they open pretty early (8:30 a.m). 

Extra Tip: If you want to do something else, you can head to Baatara gorge waterfall which is 40 mins away from Byblos. The waterfall is an impressive natural wonder and plunges 255 m (837 ft) down the Three Bridge Chasm, which is a limestone formation formed as a result of millions of years of erosion. Geologists say that the rock formation is around 160-million years old and was present in the Jurassic period.

Day 3: Batroun / Chekka

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Batroun is only 15 mins away from Byblos and is definitely the place to be. Head to the Phoenician Wall and grab a coffee or breakfast and go sit down on the wall and enjoy the gorgeous view. Then, head to the beach for a swim/tan day in the cyan blue waters of Batroun.

The weather in summer is so beautiful and perfect. Visit the free joining beach and lay there. You can order fresh fish and delicious appetizers and beers at the joining kitchen. After lunch, have a walk in the old Batroun souks and stop at The Colonel Brewery, which is a hip, dog-friendly bar on the beach with live bands, surfing, and seafood. 

Later, head to Chekka where you will be staying the night (hotel or camp). Chekka is a beautiful place with huge and tall cliffs and caves by the beach. While in Chekka, check Saydet el Nouriyi Monastery (Hamat, Lebanon).

Day 4: Anfeh / Tripoli 

Head to Anfeh which is another beach town and is known as the little Greece of Lebanon because it has white and blue houses and resorts all over. Enjoy a morning tan in Anfeh and grab breakfast by the sea.

After, head to Tripoli where you will be staying the night. It is 18 mins away by car and is filled with things to do. 

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Tripoli is known for its delicious food and desserts. Visit Al-Mina in Tripoli which a beautiful place with pretty alleys, old architecture, and bright colored walls. Have lunch in one of the Mina restaurants which range from small seafood shops to big restaurants with extravagant menus that sell fresh seafood.

Then, visit the Hammams in old Tripoli (Trablos), which are old Turkish baths. Hamman Al Jadid is Tripoli’s best-kept Hamman (not operational but worth the visit). Also, check Khan Al-Saboun (Soap Khan) where you can buy olive and olive-oil-based products which include a wide range of soup (even a soap made of gold). 

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Later, have a stroll in the old Tripoli souks where you can see the traditional coffee and Tripolitan Ka’ak vendors. Do not forget to try the pastry and dessert; there is a pastry shop on every corner in Tripoli. Try the Baklava, Maamoul, Daoukiyeh, Owaymet, Kallaj, and my two favorites; Znoud El Sit and Halawet el Jibn.

travel and more lebanon

Finish your day by checking out the Tripoli Expo (Rashid Karameh International exhibition) at sunset. The Rashid Karameh International exhibition center looks abandoned, but it is a breathtaking place designed by the famous Oskar Niemeyer. 

Extra Tip: If you have time or an extra day (during summertime), discover the four small islands offshore of Tripoli. The Palm Islands were declared a protected area because of their status of haven for endangered loggerhead turtles, rare monk seals, and migratory birds.

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The Palm Islands Nature Reserve is open to the public between July and September.

Day 5:  Bcharré and the Qadisha Valley

The Qadisha Valley, a Unesco World Heritage, is home to the legendary Cedars of God, the most highly valued building materials of the ancient world. 

The trip to the mountain village of Bcharré is very scenic and takes you through the most gorgeous views of mountains and snowy slopes and a spectacular view of the Qadisha Valley (also known as Kadisha Valley) .

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Bcharré is home to the famous poet and author, Gibran Khalil Gibran. If you are a big fan, head to the Gibran Khalil Gibran museum which houses the content of Gibran’s studio in New York, including his furniture, his manuscripts, his personal belongings, 440 original paintings, and his private library. This museum used to be a grotto for monks seeking shelter in the 7th century and now is Gibran Khalil Gibran’s tomb and museum. 

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After that, head to the Cedars of Lebanon (Cedars of God) which is one of Lebanon’s most beautiful nature reserves and home to the oldest Cedar Forest. Near the reserve is the Cedars Ski Resort which is located in the Bsharri mountains, North Governorate. It is Lebanon’s oldest ski area and home to Lebanon’s first ski lift, built in 1953.

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One of the most amazing Lebanese experiences is checking the snow wall in the Cedars during the summer. The snow can sometimes stay until September especially in Qurnat as Sawda’, which is the highest point in Lebanon and the Levant, at 3,088 meters above sea level.

The historic Qadisha valley offers a great opportunity for hiking in the beautiful and quiet valley trails and isolated mountain landscapes.

Related read: Road Tripping Oman

Day 6: Baalbek / Aanjar

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The next day, head to Baalbek in the Bekaa district, which is home to the most extraordinary archaeological sites in Lebanon and is a UNESCO World Heritage site along with Tyre, Anjar, the Cedars of God, Qadisha Valley, and Byblos.

Baalbeck is going to be an extraordinarily rich cultural and historical trip. Check the Baalbek Roman Ruins which are great ancient temples built by the Phoenicians, the Romans, and other civilizations that have conquered the region. Make sure to check the Temple of Bacchus which is one of the largest Roman temple ruins in the world. 

travel and more lebanon

The Temple of Bacchus is dedicated to Bacchus, the god of wine, grape harvest, fertility, and theater. The temple is very well preserved to the extent that the carvings of bulls, lions, and eagles are still visible.

travel and more lebanon

It is believed that the temple was constructed between 150 A.D. and 250 A.D. Also, check the temple of Jupiter and the temple of Venus.

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After this cultural trip, have lunch in one of Bekaa’s delicious authentic Lebanese restaurants. Then, head to Anjar and check the Ummayad Citadel which is one of Anjar’s most celebrated sites.

You can also check the neighboring village of Riyak, where you will find a family-run winery called “Chateau Rayak”. The owners will gladly give you a tour around their vineyards and let you taste their wine and arak. 

Related read: 10-Day Israel Road Trip Itinerary

Day 7: Marjaayoun / Saida / Tyre

On your way to Saida, pass through the lovely Marjaayoun. Take a stroll through the cobblestone market squares, which have served as the town center since Ottoman times. While in Marjaayoun, visit the Beaufort or Belfort Castle, known locally as Qal’at al-Shaqif or Shaqif Arnun, which is a Crusader fortress in Nabatieh Governorate, 1.30 hours’ drive from Beirut.

Later, head to Tyre, which is among the world’s 20 oldest cities. It is a Phoenician city that dates to 2,750 B.C. One of its main sites that you must visit is a Roman hippodrome which is on UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites. This Roman hippodrome stands as the best-preserved in the world and is even larger than the Circus Maximus in Rome herself.

Also, make sure to check the Triumphal Arch of Tyre nearby. This arch is one of the city’s most remarkable archaeological relics.

After this historical and cultural trip, head to the clean beaches of Tyre and enjoy a swim and some seafood! You can also visit the Tyre Coast Nature Reserve which is 380 hectares (940 acres) and is divided into three zones: the tourism zone (public beaches, the old city, and Souks, the ancient port), the agricultural and archaeological zone, and the Conservation zone that includes the Phoenician springs of Ras El Ain.

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The last stop would be Saida (Sidon) and then you are back in Beirut. Once in Saida, go to the gorgeous Sidon Sea Castle (Crusader Castle). From the castle, you can see the “Ziri Island” which is a tiny rocky island with a lighthouse, located 1.5 Kilometers off the coastline of Sidon. You can actually go to the island by several ferry boats from Sidon’s port.

Also, check the beautiful Debbane Palace and the museum of Sidon. The palace was ruined by the war and was eventually restored in 2000 and visitors were welcomed in 2001. Later, head to a pastry shop and get the delicious Kanafeh and walk along the Corniche. Kanafeh is a traditional Middle Eastern dessert made with shredded filo pastry, soaked in sweet, sugar-based syrup, and typically layered with cheese.

It will surely guarantee that you stay full for at least 3 hours!

Then, head back to Beirut on a full stomach.

Related read: 4 Arabian Countries of the Gulf You Should Visit Next

Lebanon is a beautiful little country and must be on your bucket list for your next destination. Despite its current turmoil economic crisis, this country will not fail to give you a great authentic middle eastern experience.

Filled with great food, desserts, friendly people, rich history, art, culture, gorgeous beaches, and scenery that will make one hell of a trip; don’t hesitate to give Lebanon a shot. You will thank me later!

About Katy Terroz – Travel Writer & Blogger

travel and more lebanon

Katy is a travel blogger and writer from Lebanon/Ukraine. She completed her undergraduate studies in Beirut (Lebanon) while playing on the university rugby team. Katy enjoyed traveling around the Middle East, camping all over Lebanon, and volunteering with FoodBlessed, a local hunger-relief initiative.

travel and more lebanon

After graduating, Katy moved to Italy to follow her dream of studying abroad. While pursuing her master’s degree in Food Security, Katy took every opportunity she had to travel all over Europe and fell in love with it.

Living in Rome gave Katy the chance to deeply explore Italy and its wonders. She loves experiencing the local life and tries to make every travel experience genuine and authentic. Katy is passionate about exploring new places and different cuisines while making sure to snap beautiful pictures and write down her experiences. She also enjoys getting lost in beachy areas, small medieval towns, and the beautiful quaint cities of the world. 

You can follow her travels on her Instagram .

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Founded 20 years ago in Lebanon, Sama Tours quickly expanded its reach globally. With a passion for authentic travel, we’ve become a trusted name in creating lasting travel memories for two decades

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Two Decades of Unparalleled Journeys: Sama Tours' Legacy

Sama Tours, originating from the vibrant heart of Lebanon, celebrates 20 years of curating transcendent travel experiences. Our legacy, spanning two decades, is a testament to our unwavering commitment to quality and our deep understanding of the traveler’s spirit. As we’ve expanded our footprint across the globe, our mission has remained consistent: to connect every traveler with destinations that leave an indelible mark on their memories. Today, Sama Tours is not just a travel agency; it’s a bridge to unforgettable stories and adventures

Discover the World with Sama: A Tradition of Excellence

Step into a world of adventure with Sama Tours. For over 20 years, our roots in Lebanon have shaped a rich heritage of crafting travel tales that resonate deeply. With a global footprint, our commitment to excellence ensures that every journey you embark upon with us is not just a trip, but a curated experience. Dive into the Sama legacy and let the world be your canvas

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Sama Tours: Your Passport to Authentic Adventures

From the historic landscapes of Lebanon to destinations worldwide, Sama Tours has been your trusted travel companion for two decades. Our dedication to genuine experiences ensures that with every trip, you’re not just visiting a place, but truly living it. As we continue our journey, we invite you to join us, making every destination a story worth telling

Sama Tours, born in Lebanon, marks 20 years of exceptional travel curation. Our two-decade legacy reflects our commitment to quality and understanding of travelers' desires. As we've grown globally, we've remained devoted to linking travelers with memorable destinations. Today, Sama Tours is more than a travel agency; it's a gateway to unforgettable adventures

travel and more lebanon

From the historic landscapes of Lebanon to destinations worldwide, Sama Tours has been your trusted travel companion for two decades. Our dedication to genuine experiences ensures that with every trip, you’re not just visiting a place, but truly living it. As we continue our journey, we invite you to join us, making every destination a story worth telling

Get in tounch with us and we'll be happy to assist you!

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Satisfaction guaranteed.

Our travel agency provides comprehensive services, catering to a diverse range of customers, from backpackers to those seeking luxury experiences. With over three decades of experience in the tourism industry, Ghorayeb Travel upholds a philosophy centered on friendliness, honesty, and hospitality to create exceptional and unforgettable ex

Our travel agency provides comprehensive services, catering to a diverse range of customers, from backpackers to those seeking luxury experiences. With over three decades of experience in the tourism industry, Ghorayeb Travel upholds a philosophy centered on friendliness, honesty, and hospitality to create exceptional and unforgettable experiences for our clients. This has been our mission since inception, where we strive to exceed customer expectations by going the extra mile. At Ghorayeb Travel, we view every customer as a lifelong client.

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Our travel agency services include complete travel solutions. We organize several customized travel packages in and outside Lebanon and all are within our clients' specified budget.

Our services:

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Middle East Crisis Israel Appears to Soften Stance in Cease-Fire Talks

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  • Destroyed buildings in Rafah on Monday. Associated Press
  • Relatives and supporters of Israeli hostages protest in Tel Aviv on Monday. Ohad Zwigenberg/Associated Press
  • Palestinians flee after a strike in Nuseirat in central Gaza. Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
  • Mourning relatives killed overnight in Rafah. Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
  • Looking at a damaged building in Rafah in the southern Gaza Strip on Monday. Hatem Khaled/Reuters
  • Posters of kidnapped Israeli hostages in Tel Aviv. Shannon Stapleton/Reuters
  • A Palm Sunday service at a Greek Orthodox church in Gaza City. Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
  • Children at a makeshift movie theater set up among the tents in Rafah on Sunday. Haitham Imad/EPA, via Shutterstock
  • Israeli soldiers resting outside the border with southern Gaza. Amir Cohen/Reuters

Israel is open to a truce involving an initial release of 33 hostages, officials say.

Israel’s latest offer would accept fewer hostages to be freed during the first phase of a new truce in Gaza, according to three Israeli officials, offering a hint of hope for cease-fire negotiations that could restart as soon as Tuesday.

For months, Israel had demanded that Hamas release at least 40 hostages — women, older people and those who are seriously ill — in order to secure a new truce. Now the Israeli government is prepared to settle for only 33, according to the officials, who spoke on the condition of anonymity in order to discuss the sensitive matter.

The change was prompted partly by the fact that Israel now believes that some of the 40 have died in captivity , according to one of the officials.

Antony J. Blinken, the U.S. secretary of state, said at the World Economic Forum in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, on Monday that Israel had made an “extraordinarily generous” offer and that Hamas alone stood in the way of a deal. David Cameron, the British foreign minister, said at the same conference that the offer included a sustained 40-day cease-fire and the release of potentially thousands of Palestinian prisoners in exchange for the Israeli hostages.

Sameh Shoukry, Egypt’s foreign minister, said at the conference that he was “hopeful” about the latest cease-fire proposal, but did not say what it involved or who had proposed it.

“The proposal has taken into account the positions of both sides,” Mr. Shoukry said, adding that “we are waiting to have a final decision.”

The shift has raised expectations that Hamas and Israel might be edging closer to sealing their first truce since a weeklong cease-fire in November, when Hamas released 105 captives in exchange for 240 Palestinian prisoners. A senior Hamas official, Izzat al-Rishq, said on social media on Monday that Hamas was studying a new Israeli proposal, but did not say what the proposal was.

Hamas and its allies captured roughly 240 Israelis and foreigners in their attack on Oct. 7, which prompted Israel to go to war in Gaza. More than 130 hostages are believed to still be held in Gaza, but some are thought to have died.

Negotiations over a new pause, mediated by Egypt and Qatar, have stalled for months over disagreements about the number of hostages and prisoners who should be exchanged in a future deal. Another obstacle has been whether Israel would allow civilians from northern Gaza who fled the Israeli invasion to return to their homes, and how many would be permitted to do so.

The length of a cease-fire has also been a key stumbling block. Hamas wants it to be permanent, while Israel wants another temporary pause so that it could still send troops into Rafah, the last major Gazan city under Hamas control, though one where more than a million displaced Palestinians have sought shelter. Far-right members of Israel’s governing coalition have threatened to bring down Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu’s government if the war ends without Hamas’s total defeat.

A mid-ranking Israeli delegation is planning to fly to Cairo on Tuesday to restart talks mediated by Egypt, but only if Hamas also agrees to attend, according to two of the Israeli officials. A senior Hamas official said that a delegation was already in Cairo on Monday.

At the economic forum in Saudi Arabia, Mr. Cameron, the British foreign secretary, said something else must happen for the conflict to end: “The people responsible for Oct. 7, the Hamas leadership, would have to leave Gaza.”

Vivian Nereim and Edward Wong contributed reporting from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.

— Patrick Kingsley and Adam Rasgon reporting from Jerusalem

Biden speaks to the leaders of Egypt and Qatar to press for Hamas’s agreement on a new cease-fire.

President Biden spoke on Monday with the leaders of Egypt and Qatar as he sought to increase pressure on Hamas to accept a deal that would result in a temporary cease-fire in the war in Gaza and the release of some of the hostages held there.

According to a statement from the office of President Abdel Fattah el-Sisi of Egypt, he and Mr. Biden discussed the negotiations and Egypt’s efforts to broker a cease-fire. They also reiterated their support for a two-state solution, discussed the importance of containing the conflict to the region and emphasized their opposition to a military escalation in the city of Rafah in southern Gaza, which Israel seems poised to invade.

Mr. Biden also spoke on Monday with Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir of Qatar. According to the White House, Mr. Biden urged the Qatari leader “to exert all efforts to secure the release of hostages held by Hamas,” saying that “this is now the only obstacle” to an immediate cease-fire.

Mr. al-Sisi and Mr. al-Thani have been prime intermediaries with Hamas through months of fitful negotiations to reach a deal to halt the hostilities, and Mr. Biden hopes they will prod the group’s leader, Yahya Sinwar, to accept the U.S.-brokered proposal on the table. On Sunday, Mr. Biden spoke with Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu of Israel.

Karine Jean-Pierre, the White House press secretary, expressed a hopeful view of the prospects for an agreement. “In recent days, there has been progress in talks,” she told reporters at the White House.

Like other American officials, Ms. Jean-Pierre said that Hamas, not Israel, was the obstacle to an agreement.

“The onus is indeed on Hamas,” she said. “There is a deal on the table, and they need to take it.”

— Peter Baker reporting from Washington

Blinken meets with Arab officials to discuss Gaza and postwar plans.

Secretary of State Antony J. Blinken spoke with Arab officials on Monday in Saudi Arabia about the war between Israel and Hamas and the difficult issues it has created, from humanitarian aid to hostages. Mr. Blinken plans to travel to Jordan and Israel on Tuesday.

After landing in Riyadh, the Saudi capital, shortly after dawn, Mr. Blinken met with Prince Faisal bin Farhan, the foreign minister of Saudi Arabia, and then with foreign ministers and a top foreign policy adviser from five other Arab nations in the Persian Gulf that, along with Saudi Arabia, form the Gulf Cooperation Council. Prince Faisal was also part of that second meeting. On Monday night Mr. Blinken met with Saudi Arabia’s crown prince, Mohammed bin Salman.

The State Department listed the cease-fire and hostage issues first in the summary it released of Mr. Blinken’s one-on-one meeting with the prince. The two “discussed ongoing efforts to reach an immediate cease-fire in Gaza that would secure the release of hostages held by Hamas,” the department said.

The two diplomats also talked about greater regional integration and “a pathway to a Palestinian state with security guarantees for Israel,” the summary said. That was a reference to negotiations over a broad deal that would involve the United States, Saudi Arabia, Israel and Palestinian representatives agreeing to terms that would result in the creation of a Palestinian state and greater diplomatic recognition for Israel in the region.

Mr. Blinken planned to meet with Arab and European officials in a group later on Monday to talk about plans for rebuilding Gaza, even though Israel is still carrying out its war there and has not stepped back from its difficult — and perhaps impossible — goal of fully eradicating Hamas.

Saudi Arabia is hosting a three-day meeting of the World Economic Forum, and top Arab officials, including Mr. Blinken’s diplomatic counterparts, are attending the event in Riyadh. The gathering includes senior ministers from Qatar and Egypt, the two Arab mediators in multiple rounds of talks over a potential cease-fire between Israel and Hamas .

“The quickest way to bring this to an end is to get to a cease-fire and the release of hostages,” Mr. Blinken said in an onstage talk with Borge Brende, president of the World Economic Forum. “Hamas has before it a proposal that is extraordinarily generous on the part of Israel. And at the moment, the only thing standing between the people of Gaza and a cease-fire is Hamas.”

“I’m hopeful they will make the right decision and we can have a fundamental change in the dynamic,” he added.

Mr. Blinken and other top aides of President Biden have also been trying to push for a long-term political solution to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, which is where the broader deal comes in. In a call meant to pave the way for Mr. Blinken’s trip, his seventh to the region since the war began, Mr. Biden and Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu of Israel spoke by phone on Sunday afternoon for nearly an hour.

The two leaders discussed “increases in the delivery of humanitarian assistance into Gaza,” according to a White House statement released after the call, and Mr. Biden repeated his warning against an Israeli ground assault on Rafah in southern Gaza. He also reviewed with Mr. Netanyahu the negotiations over a hostage release.

In their best-case scenario, the Biden administration envisions Saudi Arabia and perhaps a few other Arab nations agreeing to normalize diplomatic relations with Israel. In exchange, Saudi Arabia would receive advanced weapons and security guarantees, including a mutual defense treaty , from the United States and a commitment for U.S. cooperation on a civilian nuclear program in the kingdom .

For its part, Israel would have to commit to a concrete pathway to the founding of a Palestinian nation, with specific deadlines, U.S. and Saudi officials say.

“I think it’s clear that in the absence of a real political horizon for the Palestinians, it’s going to be much harder, if not impossible, to really have a coherent plan for Gaza itself,” Mr. Blinken said at the public talk on Monday.

Prince Faisal said Sunday that Saudi officials hoped to discuss concrete steps toward creating a Palestinian state during Mr. Blinken’s visit to Riyadh. Calling the war and humanitarian crisis in Gaza “a complete failing of the existing political system,” he told a news conference that the kingdom’s government believes that the only solution is “a credible, irreversible pathway to a Palestinian state.”

Before the war started last October, U.S. and Saudi officials were in intense discussions to reach an agreement on the terms of such a proposal. For those negotiators, a big question at the time was what Israel would agree to. Since the war began, the Americans and the Saudis have publicly insisted that Israel must agree to the existence of a Palestinian state.

But Israeli leaders and ordinary citizens have become even more resistant to that idea since the Oct. 7 attacks, in which the Israeli authorities say that Hamas and allied gunmen killed about 1,200 people and took about 240 people as hostages. Israel’s retaliatory military offensive has killed more than 34,000 Palestinians, most of them civilians, including thousands of children, say officials from the Gaza health ministry.

Vivian Nereim and Zolan Kanno-Youngs contributed reporting.

— Edward Wong traveling with Secretary of State Antony J. Blinken

Deadly Israeli strikes hit residential buildings in Rafah, Palestinian news media say.

Deadly Israeli airstrikes flattened concrete buildings overnight in the crowded southern Gaza city of Rafah, according to news agencies, which published video on Monday of rows of body bags containing what Palestinian officials said were victims of the strikes.

The Reuters news agency said the strikes in Rafah, which Israel seems poised to invade , killed 20 people. The Palestinian news media said the death toll was at least 24. The Gaza Ministry of Health said 34 people were killed in the Gaza Strip during the previous 24 hours, but it did not specify how many of them were killed by the strikes in Rafah.

Asked for comment on the strikes, the Israeli military issued a statement on Monday saying that its “fighter jets struck terror targets where terrorists were operating within a civilian area in southern Gaza.”

More than one million Gazans have been crowding into shelters and tents in Rafah to seek safety from almost seven months of Israel’s military offensive. Israeli officials have said they will soon send ground troops into Rafah, the last Gazan city Israel has not invaded, in order to eliminate Hamas battalions there, an operation that the Biden administration has warned against because of the risk to civilians.

Palestine TV — a channel backed by the Palestinian Authority, which administers parts of the Israeli-occupied West Bank — said the strikes had hit residential buildings in Rafah. One survivor, carrying a baby she said had been pulled from the rubble, spoke to a Reuters video journalist.

“The entire world is seeing what’s happening to us,” the woman, Umm Fayez Abu Taha, said. She said the child appeared to be uninjured, but that her parents had been killed.

“Look at us with some compassion, with some humanity,” Ms. Abu Taha continued. “This is all we ask for, we’re not asking for much just end the war, nothing more.”

— Liam Stack reporting from Jerusalem

Hamas fires a barrage of rockets into Israel from Lebanon.

Hamas’s military wing said on Monday that it had launched a salvo of rockets from Lebanon into northern Israel, an apparent attempt by the group to signal that it is still capable of striking within Israel’s borders even as it studies the latest proposal for a cease-fire in Gaza.

The Qassam Brigades, Hamas’s military wing, said in a statement that it had targeted an Israeli military position in Kiryat Shmona, the largest city in Israel’s far north, with a “concentrated rocket barrage” from southern Lebanon. The Israeli military said in a statement that most of the roughly 20 launches that crossed the border had been intercepted, and that it had responded by striking the source of fire. There were no injuries or damage, the military said.

Though Hamas is based in Gaza, many of its leaders are exiled in Lebanon , where the group has a sizable presence and operates largely out of Palestinian refugee camps. Since the Hamas-led terror attack on Oct. 7 prompted Israel to go to war in Gaza, Hamas has occasionally launched rocket attacks into northern Israel from within Lebanon’s borders, though its ally Hezbollah, the Lebanese militant group, has launched far more. Both groups are backed by Iran. Israel has also targeted Hamas figures in Lebanon in deadly strikes.

Walid al Kilani, Hamas’s spokesman in Lebanon, said the attack was “the minimum duty” given Israel’s continued attacks in Gaza. “We know that Hezbollah is doing its duty and more, but the battlefield requires everyone to participate,” Mr. Kilani said.

The launches on Monday, although muted in their impact, highlighted Hamas’s continuing ability to threaten Israel with rocket fire despite more than 200 days of a devastating Israeli air and ground offensive that has decimated the group’s military capabilities in Gaza.

Mohanad Hage Ali, a Beirut-based fellow with the Carnegie Middle East Center, said the attack was likely an attempt by Hamas to signal that it was “still part of the fight.” While it was largely symbolic, it could also be a means to apply pressure amid the Gaza cease-fire negotiations, he said.

Data compiled by the online website Rocket Alert — which tracks warnings of rocket launches using Israeli military figures — shows that there were just 37 alerts in April in response to detected rocket fire from Gaza, compared to around 7,300 in October at the onset of the war. More than six months into the conflict, the data shows a significant drop-off in the number of warnings of rockets from Gaza.

Alerts indicating rocket fire from Lebanon, however, have remained largely steady, the data shows. Most of those are launched by Hezbollah, but Hamas continues to launch attacks from Lebanon with Hezbollah’s blessing.

Amin Hoteit, a military analyst and former brigadier general in the Lebanese army, said the latest attack was a sign of the “integrated front of operations” among Hamas, Hezbollah and other Iran-backed groups in the region .

Hwaida Saad and Jonathan Rosen contributed reporting.

— Euan Ward reporting from Beirut, Lebanon

Israeli officials believe the International Criminal Court is preparing arrest warrants over the war.

Israeli officials increasingly believe that the International Criminal Court is preparing to issue arrest warrants for senior government officials on charges related to the conflict with Hamas, according to five Israeli and foreign officials.

The Israeli and foreign officials also believe the court is weighing arrest warrants for leaders from Hamas.

If the court proceeds, the Israeli officials could potentially be accused of preventing the delivery of humanitarian aid to the Gaza Strip and pursuing an excessively harsh response to the Hamas-led Oct. 7 attacks on Israel, according to two of the five officials, all of whom spoke on the condition of anonymity because they were not authorized to publicly discuss the matter.

The Israeli officials, who are worried about the potential fallout from such a case, said they believe that Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu is among those who might be named in a warrant. It is not clear who might be charged from Hamas or what crimes would be cited.

The Israeli officials did not disclose the nature of the information that led them to be concerned about potential I.C.C. action, and the court did not comment on the matter.

Arrest warrants from the court would probably be seen in much of the world as a humbling moral rebuke, particularly to Israel, which for months has faced international backlash over its conduct in Gaza, including from President Biden , who called it “over the top.”

It could also affect Israel’s policies as the country presses its military campaign against Hamas. One of the Israeli officials said that the possibility of the court issuing arrest warrants had informed Israeli decision-making in recent weeks.

The Israeli and foreign officials said they didn’t know what stage the process was in. Any warrants would require approval from a panel of judges and would not necessarily result in a trial or even the targets’ immediate arrest.

Karim Khan, the court’s chief prosecutor, has previously confirmed that his team is investigating incidents during the war, but his office declined to comment for this article, saying that it does not “respond to speculation in media reports.”

Mr. Netanyahu’s office also would not comment, but on Friday the prime minister said on social media that any intervention by the I.C.C. “would set a dangerous precedent that threatens the soldiers and officials of all democracies fighting savage terrorism and wanton aggression.”

Mr. Netanyahu did not explain what prompted his statement, though he may have been responding to speculation about the arrest warrants in the Israeli press.

He also said: “Under my leadership, Israel will never accept any attempt by the ICC to undermine its inherent right of self-defense. The threat to seize the soldiers and officials of the Middle East’s only democracy and the world’s only Jewish state is outrageous. We will not bow to it.”

Based in The Hague, the I.C.C. is the world’s only permanent international court with the power to prosecute individuals accused of war crimes, genocide and crimes against humanity. The court has no police force of its own. Instead, it relies on its 124 members , which include most European countries but not Israel or the United States, to arrest those named in warrants. It cannot try defendants in absentia .

But warrants from the court can pose obstacles to travel for officials named in them.

The Hamas-led raid last October led to the killing of roughly 1,200 people in Israel and the abductions of some 250 others, according to Israeli officials. The subsequent war in Gaza, including heavy Israeli bombardment, has killed more than 34,000 people, according to Gazan officials, caused widespread damage to housing and infrastructure, and brought the territory to the brink of famine.

The Israeli assault in Gaza has led the International Court of Justice, a separate court in The Hague, to hear accusations of genocide against the Israeli state and has spurred a wave of protests on college campuses in the United States.

If the I.C.C. does issue arrest warrants, they would come with deep stigmatization, placing those named in them in the same category as foreign leaders like Omar al-Bashir, the deposed president of Sudan, and Vladimir V. Putin, the Russian president, who was the subject of a warrant last year tied to his war against Ukraine.

The I.C.C.’s focus on individuals rather than states differentiates it from the International Court of Justice, which settles disputes between states.

The I.C.C. judges have ruled that the court has jurisdiction over Gaza and the West Bank because the Palestinians have joined the court as the State of Palestine.

Mr. Khan has said that his team will be investigating incidents that have occurred since Oct. 7 and that he will be “impartially looking at the evidence and vindicating the rights of victims whether they are in Israel or Palestine.”

Mr. Khan’s office has also been investigating allegations of war crimes committed during the 2014 war between Israel and Hamas; one of the officials who spoke on the condition of anonymity believes the new arrest warrants would be an extension of that investigation.

Hamas and the Israeli military did not respond to requests for comment. The office of Yoav Gallant, the Israeli defense minister, declined to comment.

In general, Israeli officials say that they fight according to the laws of war and that they take significant steps to protect civilians, accusing Hamas of hiding inside civilian areas and forcing Israel to pursue them there. Hamas has denied committing atrocities on Oct. 7, saying — despite video evidence to the contrary — that its fighters tried to avoid harming civilians.

Marlise Simons , Gabby Sobelman and Myra Noveck contributed reporting.

— Ronen Bergman and Patrick Kingsley The reporters spoke to Israeli and foreign officials.

World Central Kitchen plans to resume working in Gaza.

World Central Kitchen said on Sunday that it would resume operations in Gaza with a local team of Palestinian aid workers, nearly a month after the Israeli military killed seven of the organization’s workers in targeted drone strikes on their convoy.

Israeli military officials have said the attack was a “grave mistake” and cited a series of failures , including a breakdown in communication and violations of the military’s operating procedures.

The Washington-based aid group said that it was still calling for an independent, international investigation into the April 1 attack and that it had received “no concrete assurances” that the Israeli military’s operational procedures had changed. But the “humanitarian situation in Gaza remains dire,” the aid group’s chief operating officer, Erin Gore, said in a statement .

“We are restarting our operation with the same energy, dignity, and focus on feeding as many people as possible,” she said.

The aid group said it had distributed more than 43 million meals in Gaza so far and that it had trucks carrying the equivalent of nearly eight million meals waiting to enter the enclave through the Rafah crossing in the south. World Central Kitchen said it was also planning to send trucks to Gaza through Jordan and that it would open a kitchen in Al-Mawasi, a small seaside village that the Israeli military has designated as a “humanitarian zone” safe for civilians, though attacks there have continued.

Six of the seven workers killed on April 1 were from Western nations — three from Britain, one from Australia, one from Poland and one with dual citizenship of the United States and Canada. The seventh was Palestinian. They were killed in back-to-back Israeli drone strikes on their vehicles as they traveled toward Rafah after unloading food aid that had arrived by sea.

The attack prompted World Central Kitchen to immediately suspend its operations in Gaza and elicited outrage from some of Israel’s closest allies.

The World Central Kitchen convoy’s movements had been coordinated in advance with the Israeli military, but some officers had not reviewed the coordination documentation detailing which cars were part of the convoy, the military said.

Some 200 aid workers, most of them Palestinians, were killed in Gaza between Oct. 7 and the attack on the World Central Kitchen convoy, according to the United Nations. A visual investigation by The New York Times showed that, well before the World Central Kitchen attack, six aid groups in Gaza had come under Israeli fire despite sharing their locations with the Israeli military.

The episode forced World Central Kitchen to decide between ending its efforts in Gaza or continuing, “knowing that aid, aid workers and civilians are being intimidated and killed,” Ms. Gore said in the statement.

“Ultimately, we decided that we must keep feeding, continuing our mission of showing up to provide food to people during the toughest of times,” she said.

At a memorial in Washington for the World Central Kitchen workers on Thursday, the group’s founder, the celebrity chef José Andrés, said that there were “many unanswered questions about what happened and why,” and that the aid group was still demanding an independent investigation into the Israeli military’s actions.

The seven aid workers had “risked everything to feed people they did not know and will never meet,” Mr. Andrés said. “They were the best of humanity.”

— Anushka Patil

Arab ministers suggest ways to ‘force peace’ amid Israel’s refusal to recognize a Palestinian state.

At a conference in Saudi Arabia’s capital on Monday, senior diplomats from around the world appeared to agree on one thing: The pathway to a durable peace between Israel and the Palestinians is the creation of a Palestinian state.

But with Israel’s refusal to recognize a Palestinian state, three Arab foreign ministers posited how best to proceed, with Ayman Safadi of Jordan presenting the bluntest proposal among them. The international community, he said, should find a way to “force peace” against the will of Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu of Israel.

“If we come up with the best plan ever, and all of us in the international community agree that this is the plan to go forward, and then Netanyahu and his government say no, what happens then?” Mr. Safadi said during a World Economic Forum panel discussion in the Saudi capital, Riyadh, with the foreign ministers of Egypt and Saudi Arabia. “Will he face consequences?”

He added, “The party that is responsible for denying Palestinians, Israelis and the whole region peace must be held accountable.”

Israel’s foreign ministry declined to comment, and the prime minister’s office did not respond to a request for comment.

Both before and during this war in Gaza, which began after the Hamas-led attack on Israel on Oct. 7, Mr. Netanyahu has rebuffed calls for the creation of a Palestinian state.

Analysts say that the attack, in which about 1,200 people were killed and about 240 people taken captive, according to the Israeli authorities, has made it even more unlikely that the Israeli government would agree to such a path. Israeli officials have said that they are trying to eradicate Hamas.

“There is a contrary move, an attempt to force, ram down our throats, a Palestinian state, which will be another terror haven,” Mr. Netanyahu said this month.

Polling shows that a majority of Israelis oppose creating a Palestinian state.

In the Biden administration’s plan for resolving the underlying conflict — and end a war in which Israel’s military has killed more than 34,000 Palestinians, according to officials from the Gazan Health Ministry — it envisions Saudi Arabia agreeing to normalize diplomatic relations with Israel.

In exchange, Saudi Arabia would receive advanced weapons and security guarantees, including a mutual defense treaty from the United States and U.S. commitment for cooperation on a civilian nuclear program in the kingdom .

For its part, Israel would have to commit to the founding of a Palestinian nation, with specific deadlines, U.S. and Saudi officials say.

“In the absence of a real political horizon for the Palestinians, it’s going to be much harder, if not impossible, to really have a coherent plan for Gaza itself,” Antony J. Blinken, the U.S. secretary of state, said on Monday during the conference in Riyadh.

On Sunday at the same event, the Saudi foreign minister, Prince Faisal bin Farhan, said that the only solution was “a credible, irreversible pathway to a Palestinian state.”

He added, “We need to move from talk to action, to concrete steps, and it can’t be left up to the warring parties.”

Prince Faisal implied that diplomats could maneuver around an Israeli refusal, referring to “mechanisms within the toolbox of the international community that can overcome the resistance of any party.”

“If we make that decision, the pathway will unfold before us, even if there are those that will try to stop it,” he said. “There are levers clear, there are levers hidden, that can push us in that direction.”

Mr. Safadi, the Jordanian foreign minister, said that the challenge Arab states had faced while trying to resolve the conflict was that “we don’t have a partner in Israel now.”

“Do we allow Netanyahu to doom the future of the region to more conflict, war and destruction — or do we do what it takes to force peace?” he said.

Speaking on the same panel, Sameh Shoukry, Egypt’s foreign minister, said that if the international community made a “categorical” commitment to creating a Palestinian state, there were “points of leverage that can fulfill that requirement.”

“We have the mechanisms, but is there the political will to utilize it?” he asked.

— Vivian Nereim reporting from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

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More than $3 million allocated to improve pedestrian safety in Lebanon County

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This iron bridge, built around 1927, is part of Phase 9 of the Lebanon Valley Rail Trail just south of Jonestown. A new state grant will fund construction of another 2-mile segment of the trail. (Joshua Groh)

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Two projects in Lebanon County will receive more than $3 million to improve pedestrian access to trails and crosswalks so pedestrians and bicyclists can travel more safely.

According to a statement from Sen. Chris Gebhard (R-48), funding is being provided through the state Surface Transportation Block Grant program Set-Aside, also known as the Transportation Alternatives Set-Aside.

“With only about a third of applicants receiving funding, I am especially pleased Lebanon County will benefit,” Gebhard said in the statement. “Both the Lebanon Valley Rail Trail and South Hills Park are treasured assets we have in the community. These funds will go a long way to improve safe access to biking and walking trails in the county.”

In a press release Thursday, PennDOT Secretary Mike Carroll announced grants totaling more than $49.5 million, with funds set aside by the Gov. Josh Shapiro administration for 55 projects statewide.

“A diverse transportation network that is both accessible and safe is the cornerstone of healthy, connected communities,” said Carroll. “I am excited to see the investment in communities around the state to improve access to critical services.”

Locally, the Lebanon County Planning Department received $2.45 million to build a segment of the Lebanon Valley Rail Trail on a former railroad bed and the former Union Canal towpath.

According to an earlier report , the 2-mile segment in question is Phase 10B of the trail. Construction is expected to begin next year. When completed in 2027, the entire trail will run from the Lancaster County line in the southwestern section of Lebanon County to Lickdale Road in the northern end of the county.

Most of the trail will consist of compacted stone, the release noted. An existing bridge will be redecked, and a new pedestrian/bicycle bridge will be constructed. The existing tunnel under I-78 will be rehabilitated.

  • Lebanon Valley Rail Trail set for completion in 2027
  • Rails to Trails celebrates new extensions, four miles of additional trail now open

Also, South Lebanon Township received nearly $538,000 to construct curb, sidewalk and grass strip on the east side of South Lincoln Avenue from the township line to South Hills Park.

Where the sidewalk connects to South Hills Park, a connector trail will be built to take pedestrians onto the established trail network. There is one traffic signal within the proposed area at South Lincoln Avenue and Poplar Street, which will require a crosswalk.

Other notable projects across the commonwealth include

  • $1,500,000 to York, York County, for a variety of safety improvements for pedestrians at 12 city schools.
  • $1,184,767 to Lower Paxton Township, Dauphin County, to extend the township’s sidewalk network, connecting neighborhoods and key destinations such as the Lower Paxton Township Municipal Center, Central Dauphin Middle School, and many neighborhood-serving businesses.
  • $734,871 to Chambersburg, Franklin County, to close two street blocks permanently to vehicular traffic by the former Southgate Shopping Center to create a pedestrian and bicycle-only route.

PennDOT received 137 applications for this round of grant awards, requesting over $165 million. A complete list of selected projects is available online .

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Billtown Blues Association

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EU offers Lebanon 1 billion euros in economic, security support

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Locally-owned Lebanon Co. cafe announces closure

N ORTH CORNWALL TOWNSHIP, Pa. (WHTM) — A local breakfast and lunch cafe in Lebanon County recently announced that they will be closing their doors for good in the coming days.

Cafe Panache is a locally sourced cafe with a ‘French flair’ that first opened its doors at 931 Russell Drive in North Cornwall Township back in the Fall of 2015. The owner of the almost nine-year-old eatery is a Lebanon County native and real estate agent named Denise Bollard.

abc27 news had reported back in June 2023 when Cafe Panache reopened its doors after temporarily closing a month prior due to staffing issues .

At the time, the space on Russell Drive was going to be leased to a local Italian Bistro, but due to township variances that kept restaurants with dinner hours from operating at the space, the deal fell through.

The cancelled deal, coupled with community outcry for the cafe to stick around led to Bollard reopening, but recently she decided that it was finally time to step aside.

“It’s been eight and a half years [at Cafe Panache] and it’s just time for me to take a step back,” Bollard explained. “On the one hand I will miss it, but on the other hand it will be a relief – I will have more time to do the things I want to do.”

Earlier last week, Cafe Panache shared on Facebook that they would officially be closing their doors on Saturday, May 11.

At the time of this publication, Bollard says that the space on Russell Drive is available for lease for “light fare” businesses. This includes cafes and shops that are only operational during breakfast and lunch hours.

According to Bollard, she already has several interested parties.

abc27 news will keep you updated as more information becomes available.

For the latest news, weather, sports, and streaming video, head to ABC27.

Locally-owned Lebanon Co. cafe announces closure

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Top French diplomat arrives in Lebanon in attempt to broker a halt to Hezbollah-Israel clashes

French Foreign Minister Stéphane Séjourné arrived in Lebanon Sunday as part of ongoing diplomatic attempts to broker a de-escalation in the ongoing conflict on the Lebanon-Israel border. (AP video by Ali Sharafeddine)

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne, left, speaks with Parliament Speaker Nabih Berri during their meeting in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne, left, speaks with Parliament Speaker Nabih Berri during their meeting in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

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Lebanese Parliament Speaker Nabih Berri, right, shows a map that details Israel’s strikes on Lebanon since Oct. 7, to visiting French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne during their meeting, in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

Lebanese Parliament Speaker Nabih Berri, right, gestures after he shows a map that details Israel’s strikes on Lebanon since Oct. 7, to visiting French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne during their meeting, in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne, center, meets with Parliament Speaker Nabih Berri, right, in Beirut, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

Lebanese Foreign Minister Abdallah Bouhabib, right, welcomes his French counterpart Stephane Sejourne, during their meeting, in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne, left, meets with Lebanese caretaker Prime Minister Najib Mikati, in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne gestures as he speaks during a press conference at the Pine Palace, which is the residence of the French ambassador, in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne, gestures as he speaks during a press conference at the Pine Palace, which is the residence of the French ambassador, in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne adjusts his glasses as he listens to a question during a press conference at the Pine Palace, which is the residence of the French ambassador, in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

French Foreign Minister Stephane Sejourne speaks during a press conference at the Pine Palace, which is the residence of the French ambassador, in Beirut, Lebanon, Sunday, April 28, 2024. (AP Photo/Hassan Ammar)

BEIRUT (AP) — French Foreign Minister Stéphane Séjourné arrived in Lebanon on Sunday as part of diplomatic attempts to broker a de-escalation in the conflict on the Lebanon-Israel border .

Séjourné met with United Nations peacekeeping forces in south Lebanon and with Lebanon’s parliament speaker, army chief, foreign minister and caretaker prime minister.

France “is refusing to accept the worst-case scenario” of a full-scale war in Lebanon, he told journalists after the meetings.

“In southern Lebanon, the war is already here, even if it’s not called by that name, and it’s the civilian population who’s paying the price,” he said.

The Lebanese militant group Hezbollah has exchanged near-daily strikes with Israeli forces in the border region — and sometimes beyond — for almost seven months against the backdrop of Israel’s war against Hezbollah ally Hamas in Gaza.

Israeli strikes have killed more than 350 people in Lebanon, most of them fighters with Hezbollah and allied groups but also including more than 50 civilians. Strikes by Hezbollah have killed at least 10 civilians and 12 soldiers in Israel. Tens of thousands are displaced on each side of the border.

Carl Skau, deputy executive director of the U.N. World Food Program (WFP), speaks during an interview with The Associated Press as he tours a WFP warehouse stocking food rations in the northern Beirut suburb of Dekwaneh, Lebanon, Wednesday, May 8, 2024. If the monthslong conflict playing out on the Lebanese-Israeli border continues to escalate, the United Nations food agency won't be ready for the spike in nutritional needs across crisis-hit Lebanon, its deputy executive director said Wednesday. (AP Photo/Bilal Hussein)

A French diplomatic official who spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not authorized to speak to journalists said the purpose of Séjourné’s visit was to convey France’s “fears of a war on Lebanon” and to submit an amendment to a proposal Paris had previously presented to Lebanon for a diplomatic resolution to the border conflict.

Western diplomats have brought forward a series of proposals for a cessation of hostilities between Israel and Hezbollah. Most of those would hinge on Hezbollah moving its forces several kilometers (miles) from the border, a beefed-up Lebanese army presence and negotiations for Israeli forces to withdraw from disputed points along the border where Lebanon says Israel has been occupying small patches of Lebanese territory since it withdrew from the rest of south Lebanon in 2000.

The eventual goal is full implementation of a U.N. resolution that brought to an end a brutal monthlong war between Israel and Hezbollah in 2006.

The previous French proposal would have involved Hezbollah withdrawing its forces 10 kilometers (6 miles) from the border.

Hezbollah has signaled willingness to entertain the proposals but has said there will be no deal in Lebanon before there is a cease-fire in Gaza. Israeli officials, meanwhile, have said that a Gaza cease-fire does not automatically mean it will halt its strikes in Lebanon, even if Hezbollah does so.

Séjourné declined to provide more details about the latest version of France’s proposal ahead of his planned trip to Israel on Tuesday. He said he will have “consultations” with Israeli authorities to move toward an agreement.

The French foreign minister also pushed for the Lebanese political factions to come to an agreement on a candidate to fill a year-and-a-half-long presidential vacuum. Séjourné said that Lebanon needs a president in place in order to be “invited to the negotiating table” and to be able to implement any agreement that might be reached on the border issue.

During the talks, Lebanese officials also raised the issue of the ongoing presence of more than 1 million Syrian refugees in Lebanon, which has become an increasingly contentious issue. Lebanese officials have increasingly called for Western countries to facilitate their return to Syria.

Séjourné acknowledged the burden placed on Lebanon by hosting such a large number of refugees, and said that “all concerned parties must work to make this return possible in a voluntary, dignified and safe manner in accordance with international law.”

Associated Press writers Ali Sharaffedine in Beirut and Sylvie Corbett in Paris contributed to this report.

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COMMENTS

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  2. Lebanon Travel Advisory

    Reconsider travel to Lebanon due to crime, terrorism, civil unrest, kidnapping, unexploded landmines, and armed conflict. Some areas, especially near the borders, have increased risk. Read the entire Travel Advisory. Do Not Travel to: Southern Lebanon due to the potential for armed conflict; The border with Syria due to terrorism and armed ...

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  4. Everything You Need to Know Before Traveling in Lebanon

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    3. North Lebanon. Ok fellow explorers, now we've conquered the south, let's dive into North Lebanon! As is the old adage, there's no rest for the wicked, so suit up, shades on, and let's get cracking! There are 3 main areas that are seriously worth visiting in Northern Lebanon: Jbeil, Batroun, and Tripoli.

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  17. Lebanon Road Trip Guide 2022: A 1-Week Itinerary To ...

    Day 1: Beirut. When your plane lands in the "Beirut International Airport", it is best to rent a car and start your week in beautiful Beirut. Beirut is the capital and largest city of Lebanon. Greater Beirut has a population of 2.2 million, which makes it the third-largest city in the Levant region and the thirteenth-largest in the Arab world.

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    More than six months into the conflict, the data shows a significant drop-off in the number of warnings of rockets from Gaza. Alerts indicating rocket fire from Lebanon, however, have remained ...

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    Two projects in Lebanon County will receive more than $3 million to improve pedestrian access to trails and crosswalks so pedestrians and bicyclists can travel more safely. According to a statement from Sen. Chris Gebhard (R-48), funding is being provided through the state Surface Transportation Block Grant program Set-Aside, also known as the ...

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    The European Union has offered Lebanon a financial package of 1 billion euros ($1.07 billion) to support its faltering economy and its security forces, European Commission President Ursula von der ...

  28. Locally-owned Lebanon Co. cafe announces closure

    NORTH CORNWALL TOWNSHIP, Pa. (WHTM) — A local breakfast and lunch cafe in Lebanon County recently announced that they will be closing their doors for good in the coming days. Cafe Panache is a ...

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    TEL AVIV—President Biden's threat to withhold some weapons deliveries to Israel set up a high-stakes showdown with Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu and raised alarms in the country about a ...

  30. Top French diplomat arrives in Lebanon in attempt to broker a halt to

    Israeli strikes have killed more than 350 people in Lebanon, most of them fighters with Hezbollah and allied groups but also including more than 50 civilians. Strikes by Hezbollah have killed at least 10 civilians and 12 soldiers in Israel. Tens of thousands are displaced on each side of the border.